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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/75853-0.txt b/75853-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38923a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/75853-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10581 @@ + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75853 *** + + + + + +_Memories of an Old Etonian 1860-1912_ + + + + +[Illustration: The Rev. D. Hornby, Provost of Eton. + +[_Frontispiece._] + + + + + _MEMORIES OF AN OLD + ETONIAN :: 1860-1912_ + + _By George Greville :: Author of “Society Recollections + in Paris and Vienna” and “More Society Recollections.”_ + + [Illustration] + + _WITH 22 ILLUSTRATIONS + ON ART PAPER_ + + _LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO._ + _:: :: PATERNOSTER ROW :: ::_ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + CHAPTER I. 1 + + Early Recollections—Thackeray—The Princess Liegnitz—The + Austrian Bandmaster—Society at Homburg—Frankfurt—Goethe and + Beethoven—A Racing Coincidence + + CHAPTER II. 18 + + An Adventure in the Oden Wald—The Coiners of the Black + Forest—Kirchhofer’s School + + CHAPTER III. 27 + + Brussels—Ostend—General Sir John Douglas—Spa—“Captain + Arthy”—Boulogne + + CHAPTER IV. 40 + + A Painting by Romney—Hunter’s School at Kineton—Corporal + Punishment—A Sporting Parson—My Schoolfellows at Kineton—The + Warre-Malets—Lord Charleville + + CHAPTER V. 54 + + My Mother’s Recollections—The Cercle des Patineurs—Patti—Our + _Appartement_ in the Rue d’Albe + + CHAPTER VI. 63 + + I go to Eton—New Boy Baiting—My House Master—Mr. James’s + “Jokes”—My Room at Eton—Some Eton Masters—A Disorderly + Form—Lacaita’s Silk Hat—“Billy” Portman + + CHAPTER VII. 80 + + An Amusing Incident—Lady Caroline Murray—An Anecdote of Queen + Victoria—Lord Rossmore’s Wager—The Match at the Wall—Practical + Jokes—Some Boys at James’s + + CHAPTER VIII. 94 + + Athletic Sports at Eton—A “Scrap”—Lord Newlands—An Old Boy on + Eton of To-day + + CHAPTER IX. 103 + + Lady Grace Stopford—Tipperary in 1870—Robbed at Punchestown + Races—I get my own back + + CHAPTER X. 110 + + Dieppe under Prussian Rule—A Toilette by Worth—A Confirmed + Gambler + + CHAPTER XI. 116 + + The Princess von Metternich—The Lady of the Luxembourg Gardens + + CHAPTER XII. 123 + + Bonn—An Anecdote of Beethoven—The King’s Hussars—The Howard + Vyses—A German Professor on England—Domesticated Habits of + German Girls—Professor Delbrück + + CHAPTER XIII. 136 + + The Countess Czerwinska—The Countess Broel Plater—Mlle. + de Laval—The Duchesse de Grammont—An Absent-Minded + Gentleman—Dusauty, the Fencing Master—The Marquis of + Anglesey—Charming Venezuelans—Miss Fanny Parnell + + CHAPTER XIV. 155 + + Captain Howard Vyse—An Anecdote of Paganini—New Hats for Old + Ones—Albert Bingham—Baron Alphonse de Rothschild—Madame Alice + Kernave—Gambetta + + CHAPTER XV. 168 + + My First Night at Mess—Life at Shorncliffe—The Charltons + + CHAPTER XVI. 175 + + An N.C.O. of the Old School—Major Blewett—Captain + Byron—Sandhurst + + CHAPTER XVII. 183 + + I sail for India—Kandy—Dangerous Playmates—I arrive at Murree + + CHAPTER XVIII. 190 + + My Brother-Officers—“The Oyster”—In High Society—Our Menagerie + + CHAPTER XIX. 198 + + A Subalterns’ Court-Martial—A Terrible Experience—High + Mess-bills + + CHAPTER XX. 205 + + Sialkote—Amateur Theatricals—An Ingenious Thief—Death of Albert + Phipps—Agra—Voyage to England + + CHAPTER XXI. 217 + + Baroness James Édouard de Rothschild—At Carlsbad—Transferred to + the 3rd Battalion + + CHAPTER XXII. 222 + + My Brother-Officers—A _Mésalliance_—Christy Minstrels and + Tobogganing + + CHAPTER XXIII. 229 + + Sarah Bernhardt in _Phèdre_—Vienna and Buda-Pesth + + CHAPTER XXIV. 233 + + Percy Hope-Johnstone—A “Special” to Aldershot—A Costume-Ball at + Folkestone + + CHAPTER XXV. 238 + + The Oppenheims—St. James’s and Winchester—The Colonel and + Beauclerk + + CHAPTER XXVI. 244 + + Paris Again—Eccentricities of Captain “Rabelais”—A Fire in + Barracks—A Trying Inspection + + CHAPTER XXVII. 252 + + Madrid and Cordova—Seville—General von Goeben and the + Bull-fight—A View from the Alhambra—I rejoin my Regiment + + CHAPTER XXVIII. 262 + + I meet Byron Again—I endeavour to Exchange—Basil Montgomery—My + Illness—Why I was not Placed on Half-pay + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + PAGE + + The Rev. D. Hornby, Provost of Eton _Frontispiece_ + + Mrs. Ronalds _Facing p._ 2 + + Mrs. R. C. Kemys-Tynte, of Halswell (now Mrs. Rawlins, + mother of Lord Wharton) ” 3 + + The Author’s Father ” 6 + + The Author’s Mother ” 12 + + The Author’s Daughter ” 20 + + The Author’s Mother ” 40 + + C. D. Williamson, at Eton with the Author ” 50 + + Miss Mabel Warre-Malet ” 51 + + The Author ” 62 + + Charles Balfour, at Eton with the Author ” 80 + + Miss Minnie Balfour, sister of Hilda, Lady de Clifford ” 81 + + W. H. Onslow, aged 13, afterwards Lord Onslow ” 82 + + The Hon. Emily Cathcart, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria ” 83 + + Henry Hooker Walker, at Eton with the Author ” 90 + + The Hon. J. W. Lowther, present Speaker of the House of + Commons ” 91 + + The Duke of Rutland ” 98 + + The Author’s Father ” 144 + + Madame Alice Kernave ” 164 + + The late Earl of Berkeley ” 165 + + Miss Augusta Charlton ” 172 + + Miss Ida Charlton ” 173 + + + + +MEMORIES OF AN OLD ETONIAN, 1860-1912 + + + + +CHAPTER I + + Early Recollections—Thackeray—The Princess Liegnitz—The + Austrian Bandmaster—Society at Homburg—Frankfurt—Goethe and + Beethoven—A Racing Coincidence + + +It happened so long ago, and I was so very young at the time—not more +than five or six years old—that I should be almost tempted to believe +that it was all a dream, were it not for certain incidents which made an +unforgettable impression upon my childish imagination. The scene was the +Hôtel de Russie at Frankfurt-on-the-Main; the occasion the birthday of +King William I. of Prussia, afterwards Emperor of Germany. The spacious +grand staircase of the hôtel was brilliantly lighted, and a red velvet +carpet was laid down on the steps leading to the first floor. Up these +steps came a succession of Ministers and generals, some in scarlet and +gold lace, with the attila, heavily embroidered with gold lace and +edged with brown fur, falling loosely over the left shoulder. Whenever +an Austrian general, in his white uniform with scarlet facings and red +trousers with deep gold lace stripe down the side, appeared, my heart, +for some unknown reason, seemed to beat with delight. How I came to be +there I don’t quite know, but I can remember my surprise when I saw the +big chandelier which hung over the staircase being lighted in broad +daylight, and the red blinds near the entrance being drawn down, which +gave me a curious impression, making me feel almost as though I were +present at a funeral. It was, however, merely done to create a more +imposing effect. + +A great silence pervaded the whole of the Hôtel de Russie; no one but +royal servants stood by the front door; and the only sound which I can +recollect was the clinking of the sword worn by a general in full uniform +as he mounted the red-carpeted stairs. On approaching a door on the first +floor, the general or Minister gave his name in a mysterious whisper, +when, after a few seconds, the door was opened, and I heard a kind of +buzzing noise, as of several persons talking at once in low tones. Then +I can remember that, after a long interval, which seemed hours to me, +the mysterious folding-doors were thrown wide open, and a veritable +kaleidoscope of colour presented itself to my wondering eyes. It was the +effect of the various uniforms worn by the Ministers and generals, as +they emerged _en masse_ from the room and began to descend the staircase, +talking loudly as they passed. + +Soon afterwards, when they had all taken their departure, the brilliant +lights were lowered, and silence again descended on the hôtel. That +is all I can remember, and of what became of me afterwards I have no +recollection. That afternoon remains in my memory like a fairy-tale, +and so comical did it appear to me, that I have often thought of it +since. There was something so mysterious about the way each Minister and +general entered that door after whispering his name; and then the buzz +of conversation, which was distinctly audible during the few seconds the +door stood open, to be succeeded by an almost death-like silence. + +[Illustration: Mrs. Ronalds. + +[_To face p. 2._] + +[Illustration: Mrs. R. C. Kemys-Tynte, of Halswell (now Mrs. Rawlins, +mother of Lord Wharton). + +[_To face p. 3._] + +I can remember, just about this time, being alone in an immense salon +with six windows, all of which overlooked the Zeil, one of the principal +streets in Frankfurt. At either extremity of this room stood a big stove +of white porcelain, and its walls were decorated with large pictures. +One of these pictures represented the capture of Troy. The town was in +flames, and a huge, grey wooden horse stood in the foreground, with +a hole in its side from which soldiers were emerging and descending a +ladder supported against the horse’s flank. This was one of my favourite +pictures in the room. Another represented the Cyclopes, with their one +eye in the centre of their forehead, engaged in heating an iron bar in a +furnace. I remember that I used frequently to contemplate this picture +and wonder what it all meant, and if the Cyclopes really existed and +where they lived. At night, it used rather to frighten me, particularly +when I was left alone in the room, which frequently happened at this +time. Another picture represented Venus, with Cupid aiming one of his +arrows at her. This rather pleased me. I did not know then the mischief +wrought by Cupid’s arrows, and, in my innocence, was simple enough to +believe that Venus was an angel of love; and I pitied her for being +struck by one of Cupid’s arrows, which, in another picture in the room, +had penetrated her bosom, causing a stream of blood to trickle down the +alabaster whiteness of her body. The room had two large chandeliers, but +when I was alone in it, only one of them was lighted. + +I can remember once, during the daytime, while looking out of the window, +I saw some Prussian Hussars, in their dark-blue uniforms trimmed with +silver lace, riding past. One of the horses shied at something, and its +rider fell heavily, which caused a great crowd to assemble. I don’t know +what happened afterwards; it was just one of those things that I saw as +though in a dream. + +I recollect on one occasion occupying the bedroom and sleeping in the bed +used by the King of Prussia when he visited Frankfurt. This room was very +gorgeously furnished, the walls being draped with dark-blue satin, while +the bed had a canopy surrounded by heavy curtains of blue silk. + +So far as I can remember, it must have been some months after this that +I spent an evening in the room where the King of Prussia’s birthday-fête +had been held. It was then occupied by the late Mrs. Ronalds, a lovely +woman, quite young, with the most glorious smile one could possibly +imagine and most beautiful teeth. Her face was perfectly divine in its +loveliness; her features small and exquisitely regular. Her hair was +of a dark shade of brown—_châtain foncé_—and very abundant. I was in +Mrs. Ronalds’s care on this occasion, and I can still see her before +me as she was then, and remember that she spoke with a slight American +accent. The late Captain Frederick Dorrien, of the 1st Life Guards, an +old Etonian and a very handsome man, whom Queen Victoria called “her +handsome lieutenant,” after inquiring his name when he rode beside her +carriage one day in full uniform, came to pay Mrs. Ronalds a visit that +evening; and I can still remember her singing in a very beautiful voice, +which everyone praised enthusiastically, and also a tiny watch set in +brilliants, and always very much admired, which she wore on her finger. + +I used to be taken occasionally to the Zoological Gardens at Frankfurt, +where a Prussian military band played on Sunday afternoons, and I took +a fancy to what I thought was a large dog. I used to stroke it, and it +often licked my hand after I had fed it with biscuits and seemed to know +me. One day, however, to my surprise, I saw it put into the same cage as +the wolves, and learned that it was a wolf, which had been placed for a +time in a cage by itself. I still felt a great wish to stroke it, but was +not allowed to do so. + +Whether it was some months later or some months earlier than this I +cannot say, for, with a child, such things as time and space are of +no account, which brings a child nearer to the Divinity than grown-up +people. I can only recall giving my hand, when at Homburg vor der Höhe, +to what seemed to me an elderly gentleman, who often took me across +the garden of the Kurhaus and up the steps of the Kursaal into the +restaurant, where, seated at a buffet, was a stout, pleasant-looking +old lady, who always greeted me affectionately and gave me, at the +gentleman’s request, my favourite fruit, nectarines and _amandes vertes_. +I can remember how kind this gentleman always was to me, taking me +constantly for walks in the garden of the Kurhaus, and always holding +me by the hand. The name of the pleasant old lady was Madame Chevet, +a Parisienne, to whom the restaurant at the Kurhaus belonged, and the +gentleman, who was a great friend of my parents, was Thackeray, the +author of “Vanity Fair.” I can remember nothing else about him, except +that he appeared to be very devoted to me.[1] + +I used to wear white frocks with lace and embroidery, some of which had +been given to my mother for me by H.R.H. the Duchess of Gloucester, when +my mother’s aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, was lady-in-waiting to Her Royal +Highness.[2] I used at that time to be dressed like a girl, with my +hair in long, dark-brown ringlets, and on one occasion my mother took +me up to a very plain English lady in the grounds of the Kursaal, when +the latter exclaimed: “What a pretty boy? He is more like a girl!” Then, +turning to me, she said: “My dear, will you allow me to kiss you?” “Yes,” +I answered, and, holding up my bare arm, I added: “Kiss my elbow.” My +mother tried to persuade me to allow the lady to kiss me, but I only +cried and said: “Oh! not my face, only my elbow!” + +One day, I remember, I was playing in the grounds of the Kursaal with a +large india-rubber ball with two little girls, when a lady called them +away, saying to the little girls, who were her daughters: “You must +not play with a boy when you don’t know who he is.” That same evening, +the Countess of Desart, who was lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria, was +dining at Madame Chevet’s restaurant at the Kurhaus with my parents, and, +happening to hear of what had occurred to me in the morning, said to my +mother: “I will pay that woman out for her insolence. She is a nobody, +and only the wife of a Law lord.” When Lady C——, the mother of the two +little girls, arrived for dinner at the Kurhaus, the countess purposely +did not rise to enter the dining-room for a very long time, which annoyed +Lady C—— immensely, as she dared not enter the dining-room until the +countess had risen from her seat to do so. At dinner the countess said +to Lady C: “I can understand how careful you have to be about whom your +girls play with, as you don’t quite know how to discriminate between +common children and others.” Lady C—— blushed crimson, but did not +venture to make any reply.[3] The Countess of Desart maintained quite a +princely establishment at Homburg, having a French chef at her villa and +a number of English servants, with carriages and horses besides. + +[Illustration: The Author’s Father. + +[_To face p. 6._] + +Among my father’s friends then at Homburg was Sir Edward Hutchinson, whom +the Prince Consort said was the handsomest man in England. His brother, +General Coote Hutchinson, was also at Homburg. He had been a colonel +at six-and-twenty, and was for many years the youngest general in the +English Army. + +At Homburg we lived in a villa on the Unter Promenade, in which the +Princess Liegnitz, the morganatic wife of Frederick III. of Prussia, +also resided. I can remember so well a box of toys representing various +animals which the Princess gave me, and also the Princess and her +daughter driving up to the villa one day when I was walking with my +father, when he made me go and speak to them. My father afterwards gave +me a beautiful bouquet of red roses, which I took to Princess Liegnitz’s +salon, at which she seemed pleased, and, when she thanked me for them, +gave me a kiss. King William of Prussia often visited his father’s widow +at the villa, where the Princess held a regular Court, and was treated as +though she were Queen of Prussia, even by the King. When he met me in the +grounds, His Majesty often gave me bonbons, and usually kissed me. I had +at that time a very pretty English nurse, and King William was well known +to be a great admirer of pretty faces. My pride was somewhat wounded when +I was told that His Majesty’s attentions to me may have been due in a +very great measure to the attractions of my nurse. + +When the Princess Liegnitz left Homburg, great preparations were made at +the villa for the Duc de Morny, who intended to come and stay there. +But before he left Paris for Homburg he was suddenly taken ill and died. +His death caused a great sensation everywhere, and his servants, who had +already arrived at the villa, went away at once and returned to Paris. + +Once a fortnight, on Sunday, an Austrian military band used to come from +Rastatt to play in the grounds of the Kursaal. It played both in the +afternoon and evening, and people sat on the lawns, enjoying the very +fine music. Sometimes the Prussian military band came from Frankfurt, on +which occasions I invariably used to cry. I sometimes sat with my parents +on a Sunday on the lawns. Count Perponcher, Oberst-Hofmeister to the +King of Prussia,[4] the Countess of Desart, Sir Frederick Slade and his +family, or other friends, generally sat with them. Count Perponcher was +a most agreeable and distinguished-looking man, and a great admirer of +the Countess of Desart. The latter was not only a great beauty, but had +a certain “grand air” about her, which is, as a rule, only to be found +amongst the old nobility. + +One day, when the Austrian military band was playing, my nurse and I had +our early dinner at the Hôtel de l’Europe. Opposite to us, sitting at +the _table d’hôte_, was the bandmaster Jeschko, with a very pretty woman +seated on either side of him. I noticed that he was making love to both +of them, and said to my nurse: + +“Look at the Austrian bandmaster: he has two such pretty wives!” + +“You silly boy, why do you talk such nonsense?” answered my nurse. + +“But he is making love to both, and so they are to him,” I persisted. + +“You should not look at people you don’t know; they may be his sisters.” + +“I am sure they are not, for look at papa and his sisters.” + +“Well, whatever they may be, it is not for a child like you to ask about +them. I’ve no doubt that one is the gentleman’s wife and the other his +sister.” + +“Couldn’t they both be his wives?” + +“No; such a thing would not be allowed.” + +I continued to gaze at this handsome man, with his very long, fair +moustache, highly curled. He seemed so good-looking in his white uniform +with its pink facings, and the two ladies kept stroking his hands on the +table and looking with admiration into his blue eyes. They both addressed +him as “_Du_,” and appeared so very fond of him, that I said to myself +that I could quite understand these girls being in love with him, as he +was so handsome. The white uniform and the fine military appearance of +this Austrian bandmaster at table no doubt greatly impressed my childish +imagination, as I had never seen any one like him before, while his fair +companions were both excessively pretty and dressed in the most charming +confections imaginable. It was a sight which, when I grew older, never +faded from my memory, while many other events, perhaps of far greater +importance, were entirely obliterated. Stilgebauer, a very celebrated +modern German author, who wrote “Love’s Inferno,” says: “Only that which +we do not wish to, or may not, remember is over; everything else is ours +and never over or lost to us.” + +At Homburg, when the Austrian military band played, the grounds at night +were illuminated with red, white and blue lights, and the fireworks +were the admiration of the whole world, as M. Blanc spared no expense +whatever. This, indeed, he could well afford to do, in view of the +immense profits he derived from the gaming-tables. + +There was at Homburg in those days a young French girl of noble family, +who was about thirteen years of age and very lovely, with a beautiful +complexion. She was always exquisitely dressed, usually in white tulle +with a great deal of lace, and was admired by everyone. This youthful +beauty used to play a game of forfeits in a ring with some boys, who +always arranged as a forfeit for the girl that she should kiss them. +One day, when I was about seven years old, the children invited me to +play with them. I did so, and was kissed by the little girl, at which I +was much ashamed, as, though I rather liked being kissed by her, I was +decidedly bashful when the operation was performed in the presence of +so many people. And so, when I was asked to play again, I refused. This +young lady often got her lovely white dress torn to shreds by the rough +boys who played with her, but she went on playing every day all the same. + +I remember once travelling by train with my father from Homburg to +Frankfurt, when Goldschmid, a wealthy Jewish banker with red hair, who +was in the same compartment, went fast to sleep. My father told me he +was going to have some fun with him, and was pretending to take away his +watch and chain, when Goldschmid suddenly woke up and exclaimed:— + +“_Gott, wirklich ich dachte Sie hätten meine Uhr weggenommen!_” + +He was evidently under the impression that my father had evil intentions, +and it was not for some time afterwards that he could understand that it +was only a joke. Goldschmid, many years afterwards, was ruined by his own +brother, and committed suicide by drowning himself in the Main. They were +cent. per cent. Jew moneylenders and bankers, who helped to ruin many +English people in those days at Homburg. + +I can well recollect seeing my father on one occasion in conversation +with Garcia, a dark, good-looking Italian, who had several times broken +the bank at Homburg by his high play. He had begun his gambling +operations when quite a poor man. I can also recollect Madame Kisilieff, +who was a great gambler in those days, and was a good deal with my +parents at Homburg. She was an immensely wealthy Russian lady of noble +birth, who lived there _en grand luxe_. + +The English colony at Homburg during the gambling days was very different +from what it is now. There was more youth and beauty to be seen there +and more of the aristocracy; whereas to-day more old people and wealthy +_parvenus_ go to Homburg during the season. Chevet’s Restaurant, though +dreadfully expensive, was excellent; while the modern German one, though +also dear, is not especially good. + +I cannot recollect what year it was, but I can remember the Railway King, +Hudson, taking another boy named Jeffreys and myself, whom I afterwards +met at Eton, to dine with him at Chevet’s Restaurant, where he regaled us +with every kind of luxury that the place could provide. My mother once +told me a story about Mrs. Hudson, which she had heard from her father:— + +Mrs. Hudson one day received a visit from the Duke of Wellington, +whom she saw arrive, accompanied by a well-dressed and very +distinguished-looking man, who remained outside when the Duke entered the +house. Presently it came on to rain heavily. + +“I will ask your friend up out of the rain,” said Mrs. Hudson to the Duke. + +The Duke replied that the man was his servant; but Mrs. Hudson, who could +not bring herself to believe that such an aristocratic-looking person +could be the servant even of the Duke of Wellington, and thought that the +latter was joking, insisted on the man being shown upstairs. + +My grandfather’s brother-in-law, General the Hon. Sir George +Cathcart, was A.D.C. to the Duke of Wellington at Waterloo, and was +second-in-command to Lord Raglan in the Crimea, where he was killed at +Inkermann. He was my godfather, and I often heard my father say that he +always had a cigar in his mouth, even in action. Once he was asked by +the authorities at the War Office how long he required to get ready +for active service. His answer was that he was ready to go anywhere at +twenty-four hours’ notice. + +My parents, one year, lived at the Hôtel de Russie at Frankfurt, going to +Homburg in the evenings. There was a Baron von Neii, an Austrian major of +dragoons, staying at the “Russie.” He was married to an Englishwoman, but +they had no children, and, taking a great fancy to me, he wanted to adopt +me and give me the right to bear his name and title, which is frequently +done in Austria. He and his wife lived afterwards at Beaulieu, near Nice, +where they had a charming villa with a beautiful rose-garden, where I +have been to see them in more recent years. + +Baron von Neii told me that there was once an Englishman, a Major +Isaacson, in his regiment, who could not speak two words of the Hungarian +language. Nevertheless, he contrived to retain his place in the regiment +for many years, being always prompted when he had to give orders by +a sergeant. One day, however, during an inspection by a general, the +sergeant happened to be away, with the consequence that the poor officer +was perfectly helpless, and, after calling out several wrong words of +command, was detected and placed on half-pay. + +There were at this time at Homburg two Misses Lee Willing, nieces of the +famous General Lee, of the Southerners. One was a great beauty, who, it +was reported, had received innumerable offers of marriage, from a prince +downwards, but had refused them all. She was called the “Destroying +Angel,” because she had been the cause of so many duels being fought on +her account. She was constantly in the company of my parents, and, many +years later, we met her again in Paris. So far as I can remember, she +could never decide to take a husband, and died in Paris while still a +great beauty. + +[Illustration: The Author’s Mother. + +[_To face p. 12._] + +Her cousin, Willing Lee Magruder, had been with the Emperor Maximilian of +Mexico at the time he was shot by his revolted subjects, and only escaped +a similar fate by the skin of his teeth. His sister was lady-in-waiting +to the Empress Charlotte of Mexico, and, after the Emperor’s death, the +brother and sister occasionally dined with us in Paris, and we often met +them in later years in Paris society. When leaving Mexico, Magruder and +his sister were shipwrecked, and he told me that they passed several +hours in the sea clinging to a plank. At night they were rescued by a +passing ship, almost exhausted by hunger, thirst and fatigue. His sister +never quite recovered from the shock to her system, and suffered much +from a nervous complaint ever afterwards. + +I can remember that, while at the Hôtel de Russie, my mother used +constantly to be reading French novels, which, during her absences +at Homburg, my French nurse used to get hold of. I was particularly +interested in _la Reine Margot_ and _le Chevalier de Maison Rouge_, by +Alexandre Dumas _père_, which delighted me more than any other books. I +read “Joseph Andrews,” which my father bought for me, but he told me that +he thought I was not quite old enough to appreciate or even to understand +most of it. + +I used always to be much interested in the Eschenheimer Thor at +Frankfurt, as at the top of it there was a tiny iron flag, in which nine +holes were pierced, representing the figure nine. The story about this +flag is that a certain poacher, who had been arrested and condemned to +death for shooting deer, was offered a pardon, if he could put nine +bullets into the flag in such a way as to form the figure nine. This he +succeeded in doing, and was set at liberty. + +When you looked at the flag this seemed hardly credible; it was so tiny, +and the nine was so wonderfully pierced. The Eschenheimer Thor has since +disappeared to make room for the so-called improvements of Frankfurt. + +I can remember being taken to the celebrated Römer at Frankfurt, where +the Emperors of Germany were formerly crowned. The Kaisersaal, where +the coronation used to take place, was an immense room, containing +portraits of the different Emperors. I was much interested in Karl I., +and still more in Rudolph von Hapsburg, the ancestor of the present +Emperor of Austria, and I also took particular note of those of Günther +von Schwarzburg and Maximilian I., as I was very fond of German history. +The coronation room was beautifully decorated, the walls and doors being +sumptuously gilded. On the latter were represented several children, +wearing royal crowns and garments of gold, which pleased me very much. + +Another time, I was taken by my French nurse, so far as I can remember, +to see Dannecker’s celebrated statue of Ariadne, and was somewhat +startled at finding myself in a perfectly dark room, in which you could +only see a red velvet curtain facing you. Soon, however, the curtain was +drawn back, when a perfectly white statue of a nude woman riding upon +a lion appeared before us. The woman was exquisitely formed, and was +reclining indolently upon the animal’s back. A rose-coloured light was +thrown upon the statue, which made its hue all the more dazzling, and +it revolved slowly on its axis, so as to display the lovely form of the +woman to better advantage. I was glad that it was dark, for I fancied +that I should have felt more awkward if anyone had seen me. As it was, I +blushed crimson, and was pleased to get into the street. All the same, +I have never forgotten this lovely statue and the rose-coloured light +employed to show off its beauty. + +I went to the Jewish quarter, where the old tumbledown house in which +the Rothschilds had once lived[5] was pointed out to me, but it was such +a dirty quarter of the town that I never returned there. I once visited +the Synagogue, and was surprised to see all the men wearing their hats. +It made me think of the time of Christ, and that with certain Jews +very little had altered since those days. I wondered why such men as +Goldschmid at Homburg were allowed to carry on their villainous trade +with Christians. + +The new theatre at Frankfurt is a very fine building, in which there is +a statue of Goethe, which is greatly admired. An amusing anecdote is +related of Goethe, who was born at Frankfurt. One day he and Beethoven +were walking together, and many people who met them raised their +hats. “How tiresome it often is to be recognized by so many persons!” +complained Goethe. To which Beethoven replied somewhat maliciously: +“Perhaps it is me they are greeting.” + +Speaking of Goethe, the celebrated Austrian poet Grillparzer says:— + +“_Schiller geht nach oben, Goethe kommt von oben._ His characters +usually say everything beautiful that can be said about a subject, and +for nothing in the world would I care to miss any of the beautiful +speeches in _Tasso_ and _Iphigenia_, but they are not dramatic. That is +why Goethe’s plays are so charming to read and so bad to act. However +much we may think of Goethe, the fact remains that his _Wanderjahre_ +is no work, the second part of _Faust_ no poem, the maxims of the last +period no lyrics. Goethe may be a greater poet, and no doubt is; but +Schiller is a greater possession for the nation, which requires vivid +impressions in our sickly times. Goethe’s Wilhelm Meister and Philine +Sarto and the Countess have all distinct and artistically well-formed +characters, though they are all in danger of being condemned as +without any character. This fate they share with Hamlet and Phèdre, +with King Lear and Richard II.; perhaps also with Macbeth and Othello. +The _Wahlverwandtschaften_ is a great masterpiece. In knowledge of +humanity, wisdom, sentiment and poetic strain it has not its equal in any +literature. With the exception of those produced by Goethe in his youth, +his works were not popular with the nation, and the great respect shown +him was the result of the admiration which his masterpieces of the past +had aroused.” + +Frederick the Great said of Goethe: “His early works are too natural, +and his late ones too artificial. Besides, he is an immoral poet. Fallen +girls are his favourite characters.” A very true saying of Frederick the +Great is: “A court of justice which pronounces an unjust sentence is +worse than a band of murderers.” Frederick was always a great admirer +of Voltaire, and one of his famous sayings is: “_Unsere Unsterblichkeit +ist, den Menschen Wohlthaten zu erweisen_.” (“Our immortality consists in +performing good deeds to mankind.”) + +In recent years I went to the celebrated Palmen Garden in Frankfurt, +where the palm-trees are all from the late Duke of Nassau’s beautiful +palace at Biebrich. I went there with an English lady to an afternoon +concert. My companion remarked how ordinary all the people looked +compared with those one saw at a concert at Vienna, and drew my attention +to a table at which sat four men dressed in very shabby, old-fashioned +clothes. I was anxious to remain and hear the concert out, but was afraid +the lady might decide to leave early, owing to the little interest she +appeared to find in the audience. So I said at random:— + +“You are quite right, but with regard to the men sitting at that table, I +should not be surprised if they were millionaires.” + +She laughed and seemed to be much amused at the idea, and a waiter coming +up just at that moment with some coffee and cakes we had ordered, I asked +him if he knew who the four men were. He replied at once:— + +“They are four millionaires.” + +I may mention that I had never seen these men before in my life, and was +only staying at Frankfurt two days. + +At Franzenbad, from which I had just come, I had a singular experience. +On entering the Kursaal one Saturday afternoon a programme of the music +was handed me. The piece which was being played was a polka, by Edward +Strauss, called _Con Amore_, and I noticed that each of the eight pieces +on the programme contained a letter of this name. I took this as a kind +of presentiment, and the same day telegraphed to a bookmaker named +Hörner, in the Krugerstrasse at Vienna, to back the horse of this name +running in the principal event in the Baden races the following Sunday. +He duly executed my commission, and the horse won, though it did not +start favourite. I won very little, however, as the odds were not as long +as I had expected. The programme of the concert at Franzensbad was as +follows:— + + Saturday, 25th June, 1904. Kurhaus, 4 p.m. + + 1. Wiedermann Marsch Oelschlegel. + 2. Ouverture, Oberon Weber. + 3. Ballerinen Walzer Weinberger. + 4. Potpourri aus Obersteiger Zeller. + 5. Con Amore Polka Ed. Strauss. + 6. Ouverture, Belagerung von Corinth Rossini. + 7. Am Spinnrad Eilenberg. + 8. Frisch heran Galop Johann Strauss. + +The Hôtel de Russie, in those days, occupied the site of the present +Post Office. It was originally a palace, and the rooms were magnificent, +particularly those reserved for the King of Prussia, which my parents +occupied for a time, as did Mrs. Ronalds. Otherwise, this suite of +rooms was always kept for the King of Prussia when he cared to visit +Frankfurt, which His Majesty often did, staying there usually some +time. The proprietor of the Hôtel de Russie was a certain Herr Ried, +and, on his death, it was purchased by the Drexel brothers, who are now +wine-merchants of some celebrity in Frankfurt. + + + + +CHAPTER II + + An Adventure in the Oden Wald—The Coiners of the Black + Forest—Kirchhofer’s School + + +When I was seven years old, my parents left me at a school in Frankfurt, +kept by Herr Kirchhofer, a good-looking, fair-haired man of thirty-five. +He was married and had an only son named August, who in later years +entered the Austrian Army, and got terribly into debt when a lieutenant. +His father paid his debts, but after he married he got into further +trouble, and ended by shooting himself, while still quite young. +During my stay at this school I spoke nothing but German all day, with +the exception of a little French occasionally, and, in consequence, +completely forgot the English language for the time being. + +One day, Herr Kirchhofer told one of the assistant masters, Herr Wolf, a +young man of five-and-twenty, that he might take six of the boys, of whom +I was one, for a three days’ excursion in the Oden Wald. We started at +five o’clock in the morning and walked for some hours, when I became so +tired that I could go no farther. So Close, an English boy of eighteen, +who was going into the Austrian Army, and another boy, a German, carried +me on a kind of camp-stool a long way. + +When we got to the Oden Wald, we wandered about collecting plants, which +Herr Wolf required for his lessons in botany. Then, after dining at an +inn, we started again, with the intention of reaching a village which +the master knew by name. On the way we passed a small village, where a +man offered to take charge of me, and I was very much afraid our master +would leave me with him. I begged him not to do so, and was greatly +relieved when he said: + +“You don’t think I should be so foolish? Why, the man might run off with +you.” + +Some time afterwards, it began to grow quite dark, and Herr Wolf became +much alarmed, as we had completely lost our way in the forest. However, +we saw some lights in the distance, and walked on until we came to a +small village, where there was a house which purported to be an inn, +though all its windows were broken and mended with pieces of newspaper. + +Herr Wolf entered this uninviting hostelry and inquired if we could +have one large room to sleep in, as he told Close and another big boy, +a German, that he was afraid that we might possibly be murdered in the +night, if we were separated. I may here mention that, in those days, some +parts of the Oden Wald were infested by gangs of robbers, and instances +were known of people being given beds which revolved in the night and +precipitated their unfortunate occupants into pits beneath the floor. + +The inn-keeper, a sinister-looking personage, with his face almost +entirely covered with hair, said that he had not a room large enough to +accommodate our whole party, but that we could have two rooms. Herr Wolf +asked if they were near each other, to which the man replied that one was +upstairs, but the other on the ground floor. The master, looking much +annoyed, asked to see the rooms, and, after inspecting them, inquired +if Close had a revolver with him. The latter said he had not, though he +had brought a sword-stick. But another boy, an American, called Sydney +Chapin, exclaimed:— + +“I have a loaded revolver with me.” + +“That’s famous!” replied Herr Wolf. “Then you must give it me, for I will +occupy the room on the ground floor with George, and you others must +sleep upstairs.” + +The master then took the revolver, and told Close that he must take +charge of the other boys in the room upstairs. + +When this had been arranged, we all entered the so-called dining-room, +a large room, with whitewashed walls. Its windows, like all the rest in +the house, were broken and patched with newspapers; the ceiling was so +low that you could almost touch it with your hands, and crossed by large +beams. In one part of this room, four rough-looking men were playing +cards and drinking beer out of mugs. They were in their shirt sleeves, +with sleeves tucked up to the elbow, displaying very muscular arms, while +their shirts, open at the neck, showed their naked chests covered with +hair. Although it was summer and excessively hot, all of them wore fur +caps. + +They were playing by the glimmer of a solitary tallow candle, which was +the only light in the room, and when we took our seats with our master +at another table, we found ourselves almost in the dark. Presently, our +supper was brought us, consisting of cold meat and mugs of beer, and Herr +Wolf asked for a candle. The inn-keeper muttered sullenly that he had +none. + +“What! Have you no light of any description?” asked the master. + +“No, I have just told you so,” was the reply. + +Herr Wolf was visibly alarmed, but Close whispered to him:— + +“I have a box of matches.” + +“_Gott sei dank!_” exclaimed the other. + +After some whispered instructions to Close, the master rose from the +table, when I observed the card-players casting surreptitious glances in +our direction, although they pretended to be absorbed in their game. Herr +Wolf then took me through the darkness into the bedroom on the ground +floor, the gloom of which was partially relieved by a slight glimmer from +the moon, which penetrated through the broken window. He struck a match, +and, having shown me my bed, which stood near the window, told me to +undress and go to bed. I did as he told me, and he then said that he was +going upstairs to see after the other boys. + +[Illustration: The Author’s Daughter. + +[_To face p. 20._] + +While I lay in bed, I heard some noisy women passing the window. One +of them put her head through one of the broken panes, and, on seeing me +in bed, burst out laughing. Afterwards there was a dead silence, only +interrupted occasionally by the loud oaths of the men playing cards in +the dining-room, who appeared to be disputing about some money which had +changed hands. The noise they made was becoming louder and louder, when I +heard the door open, and Herr Wolf entered and inquired if I were asleep. +He then went out again, saying that he would return later. The noise made +by the gamblers then appeared to cease, and my weariness overcoming my +fears, I suddenly dropped off to sleep. + +Early in the morning I awoke, and saw Herr Wolf dressing himself. I +hardly knew where I was, when, on seeing that I was awake, he said:— + +“_Du bist famos geschlafen, George._” + +After I had dressed, he told me to come with him into the dining-room, +where all the others were gathered, and, after taking some coffee and +black bread, we left the inn. Soon afterwards, Herr Wolf told the boys +that he had never been so alarmed in his life, and that he was quite +positive that if the men at the inn had not known that some of the boys +were armed, we should most probably have been murdered for the sake of +our clothes and the money we had about us. He added that he had not +slept a wink all night, as he knew what sort of men he had to deal with, +and that they were of the very lowest type imaginable and capable of +committing any crime to obtain a few groschen. + +At the time of which I am speaking, there were so many murders +perpetrated near Homburg, owing to the gambling which went on there, that +the police never knew whether they had really to deal with a suicide or +a murder. The Oden Wald had then quite as bad a reputation as the Black +Forest, which was infested by whole gangs of robbers and murderers. Herr +Wolf told us a story of a man who, having lost his way in the Oden Wald, +put up for the night at a small inn near a village, where they gave +him some coffee before he went to bed. He could not sleep, and in the +middle of the night he got up, lighted a candle and began examining a +picture opposite his bed, which represented a man wearing a Rembrandt +hat with a long feather. Gradually, it seemed to him that the feather +was becoming shorter; soon he could see only a part of the hat, and +then merely the face. The man, thinking that there must be something +wrong with him, jumped out of bed and approached the picture, which he +found was exactly as when he had first seen it. But, on looking at his +bed, he perceived that the baldachin over the four-poster was suspended +by a chain from above the ceiling, and was gradually working its way +downwards. An examination of the moving baldachin revealed the fact that +it was made of massive iron, beneath which he would infallibly have been +crushed to death. Dressing in all haste, and holding a pistol which he +had about him ready to fire in case of need, the destined victim left the +room and stealthily descended the stairs. By good fortune he met no one, +and letting himself out of the house, made his way to Homburg, where he +informed the police of the murderous trap which had been laid for him. +It was evident that the coffee which he had drank overnight had been +drugged; but, most providentially for him, the drug had had the contrary +effect to that intended, and had kept him awake, instead of sending him +to sleep. + +Herr Wolf told us other stories of the Black Forest, in which there were +inns with revolving beds, which upset the persons who occupied them into +pits beneath the floor, where the heavy fall generally killed them at +once; and Baron Vogelsang, a good-looking Bavarian boy, with blue eyes +and curly brown hair, related the following anecdote: + +During the time of the great Napoleon,[6] the Emperor sent on one of +his aides-de-camp to Germany with important despatches. This A.D.C. had +to traverse the Black Forest, and on arriving as evening was falling +at a certain country house, asked if he could be accommodated for the +night. A room was given him, but, at the same time, he was warned that +the house was haunted, and, sure enough, in the middle of the night a +ghost duly put in an appearance. The Frenchman, who had no belief in +the supernatural, promptly snatched up a pistol and levelled it at the +spectre, who thereupon vanished. The A.D.C. then hurried to the spot +where the ghost had first appeared, when the floor suddenly gave way +beneath him, and he fell what seemed a great distance. For the moment he +was stunned by the fall, and, on recovering his senses, found himself +surrounded by a number of men, who were debating whether they should kill +him. He, however, explained who he was, and showed them the despatches +from Napoleon of which he was the bearer; and the men, fearing the +vengeance of the Emperor, should the crime they were meditating ever be +discovered, agreed to set him at liberty, on condition that he would +take an oath to say nothing of what had happened to him in that house. +They then told him that they were coiners, and that they killed everyone +who slept at the house, but that they usually frightened so many away +by tales that very few people cared to stop there. The Frenchman took +the oath demanded of him, and was set at liberty so soon as day came. +Years afterwards, he received a magnificent pistol, set with brilliants +and rubies, with the following inscription engraved upon it: “From those +whose secret you have so generously kept.” The gift was accompanied by a +letter, informing him that the coiners, having now succeeded in amassing +an immense fortune, had retired from business. + +The day after our adventure at the inn was passed by our party in walking +leisurely through the forest homewards, through a most glorious country +and in most lovely weather. When we reached Frankfurt, Herr Kirchhofer +congratulated Herr Wolf on our escape, and told him that it was very +lucky that we had returned at all. + +Herr Wolf saw me in after days at Frankfurt, when he kissed me in German +fashion, saying: “_Kannst Du Dich erinnern von damals im Oden Walde, +George?_” I thought it was our last day upon earth, and that we were +going to be murdered there, like many others have been there before and +even since those days. But I pretended not to be alarmed at the time, and +made the best of it. + +The time—rather more than a year and a half—I spent at this school at +Frankfurt was one of the happiest periods of my life; indeed, when my +parents wanted me to stay at the Hôtel de Russie, I cried and begged not +to be taken away from the school. Herr Kirchhofer was a very pleasant, +kind and good-hearted man, and a fine orator, one of the best I have ever +heard; and the lectures which he used to give on ancient Greek history +were always extremely interesting. His lectures were always extempore, as +his excellent memory made it unnecessary for him to refer to a book, and +the way he declaimed was a pleasure to listen to, so well did he raise or +lower his voice to suit the occasion. At times he became very dramatic, +putting you in mind of some celebrated actor on the stage, as he walked +up and down the room, reciting from the classics and quite carrying away +his audience. The only punishment inflicted on boys at this school was to +shake them and smack their faces, which Herr Kirchhofer did himself, as +well as the other masters, of whom there were eight or nine, although the +school consisted only of ten boarders and fifty day-boarders. + +German and Austrian boys find more pleasure in taking long walks in +the woods, making excursions, and running about than they do in games +like football and cricket, for which few, if any, have any taste. In +fact, I never knew any boys in Germany who cared much for any outdoor +games at all. However, I have not the slightest doubt they enjoy their +school-days quite as much as English boys, if not more; and there is +much more friendship between master and boys in Germany than there ever +can be in England. In the former country, the master devotes more time +to ascertaining the tastes of individual boys, and addresses them +more like a friend than a master. When, afterwards, I was sent to an +English school, I noticed the difference almost at once. At the school +at Frankfurt I was most interested in the history of ancient Greece; I +was also fond of German history. Latin was not taught there, for which +I was by no means sorry. I had no great fancy for botany, though I +tried to like it; but natural science rather piqued my curiosity. As +for arithmetic, I hated it, and never knew the value of money; in fact, +I don’t remember ever having any at that time, nor ever asking for +any, as I had everything I required bought for me. I had a fancy for +collecting stamps, and, in those days, there was a regular stamp market +at Frankfurt, where they were sold in the street. I went there on one +occasion, but was not very favourably impressed by the Jew dealers who +hawked them about. + +I was passionately fond of tin soldiers, and used to play with them with +a boy named Louis Krebs, who had a fine collection of both Austrian and +Prussian ones. He had a pretty little sister called Klara, who always +wore pink coral earrings and would often play with us. + +One day, Herr Kirchhofer told me that my parents were going to England +and that they had arranged to take me with them. At first, I was quite +unable to realize it, but when I learned that the news was true I was +greatly distressed, and nearly cried my eyes out at having to leave +Frankfurt and the school. I tried to prevail upon my parents to leave me +behind, but my father would not hear of it, saying that I should have to +go to a preparatory school for Eton, and that he had one in view, which +my aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, had recommended. So I was forced, _malgré +moi_, to submit to my parents’ wishes. + +In recent years I met Krebs, the boy of whom I have just spoken, at +Frankfurt, when he gave me a great deal of information about those who +had been at school with us. He himself had become a millionaire; but he +was the only one who had made money. Most of the others had been far from +successful in life, and one of the wealthiest, Baron Vogelsang, had +lost almost the whole of his immense fortune. Many had died quite young. +Herr Kirchhofer had only lived a few months after the suicide of his son +August, and Herr Wolf had also died while still quite a young man. + + + + +CHAPTER III + + Brussels—Ostend—General Sir John Douglas—Spa—“Captain + Arthy”—Boulogne + + +On leaving Frankfurt, we went to Brussels, where we lived in a large +house on the Boulevard de Waterloo, which looked out on to a very fine +avenue of trees. Captain Dorrien came with us on a visit to my parents +and stayed for some months. Captain Dorrien, in after years, lost his +whole fortune, when the late Earl of Sheffield, who had been at Eton with +him, insisted on his going to live at his fine house in Portland Place, +where he was given full authority over all the servants, lived free of +all cost to himself, and received a cheque for £500, while the Earl +went for a six months’ cruise in his yacht. This was told me by Captain +Dorrien himself, at a time when he was in far better circumstances. + +Lord Howard de Walden was then the English Minister at Brussels, and my +parents were on very friendly terms with him and his family. Two of the +sons came often to our house; one was in the Royal Navy, and the other in +the 60th Rifles. The eldest son, who afterwards succeeded to the title, +was then in the 4th Hussars, but I never met him. Many years afterwards, +I met Lady Howard de Walden, then a widow, in India, at Murree, in the +Himalayas, where she dined at our mess with her daughter, Miss Ellis. +The two ladies were about to start on a journey to Kashmir, on ponies, +as Lady Howard de Walden said that it was her intention to see as much +of the world as she could before she died. She was then seventy. She +added that it was a singular coincidence that the two regiments in which +her sons had served—the 4th Hussars and the 60th Rifles—both of which +she visited, should be quartered quite near Kashmir, the Hussars at +Rawal Pindi, and the 2nd Battalion, 60th Rifles, at Murree. Lady Howard +de Walden accomplished the difficult journey to Kashmir and returned in +safety. + +We were on friendly terms with the Baron de Taintegnies, who was in +attendance on Leopold II., King of the Belgians, and also with his +three lovely daughters, who, with their cousins, the daughters of Baron +Danetan, were considered the most beautiful girls in Brussels society at +that time. One of the former married, in later years, Captain Stewart +Muirhead, of the Blues, a friend of my father and of Captain Dorrien. + +Frederick Milbanke, of the Blues, an old Etonian, who was a great friend +of my father, was at that time a good deal in Brussels, and married +a Belgian actress there. Milbanke was heir to some of the Duke of +Cleveland’s estates, but he died before coming into this property. The +last time I saw him was at the Alexandra Hôtel, in London, where he and +his wife had a very fine suite of rooms, when my father took me there to +pay them a visit. Milbanke was a very handsome, fair man, and his wife +a great beauty. I met the latter in after years at the Grosvenor Hôtel, +where she was staying with her son, a nice-looking boy, who had come back +from Eton for the holidays. + +The winter at Brussels was rather a severe one, and there was plenty of +good skating to be had. I remember learning to skate in the Bois de la +Cambre, to which I went with my father. One day I was knocked down by +some lady skaters, and had great difficulty in extricating myself from +their petticoats. I fell very softly, but I was well-nigh smothered. I +was glad when my parents left Brussels, as I had no companions there at +all. + +There was then at Ostend a Mrs. Clifton, who had an exceedingly pretty +daughter. Mrs. Clifton was a widow, and afterwards contracted a second +marriage with a brother of Sir Walter Carew. When I was at school at +Kineton, in Warwickshire, the mother and daughter paid me a visit, as +they had an estate not far from the school. + +One day, on the Digue at Ostend, I suddenly caught sight of my little +friend, Baron Vogelsang, who, leaving his father and mother, who were +with him, ran up to me at once and kissed me on both cheeks. I saw a good +deal of Vogelsang while I was at Ostend, going often on to the sands with +him, and meeting him in the evening at the children’s dance at the Casino. + +The Baron de Taintegnies’s daughter used to attend those dances, to +which the Duc de Sequeira, a young boy I knew, generally went. Marie, +the Baron’s eldest daughter, who was a lovely girl, afterwards became +the Baronne Le Clément de Taintegnies. She lives at Minehead, where she +has a fine estate and hunts with the Devon and Somerset Staghounds. +I heard from her quite recently. Her sister Isa, who married Captain +Stewart Muirhead, is now a widow, her husband having died in Paris in +1906. She also hunts with the staghounds in Devonshire, and both sisters +are well-known horsewomen. Aline, the youngest sister, who was called +“Bébé,” and whom I admired very much when a child at Brussels and Ostend, +married, in 1871, Baron de Hérissem, and, after his death, went to Italy, +where she married again and lived for several years. She died at Ancona +in March, 1906. + +There was a racing man at Ostend, named Captain Riddell, who won all +the principal steeplechases that were run there. Mrs. Ind, the wife of +the well-known brewer, was his sister. Riddell met with a very serious +accident in a steeplechase at Ostend, injuring his spine. The horse +which he was riding on that occasion was once ridden by my father on +the sands, and he told me that he was a perfect devil to hold. When a +young man, my father once rode a hundred miles in twelve hours on the +same horse for a bet at Taunton, in Somerset, and won his wager easily, +with plenty of time to spare. He and Charles Kinglake, a brother of the +author of “Eöthen,” were the only persons who were willing to go up in a +balloon at Taunton, when the first one came there, which was considered +rather venturesome at the time. This reminds me that one of the oldest +inhabitants of Bristol told me lately that he remembered when the first +iron ship was launched at that port, and how all the residents declared: +“The idea of iron floating is too absurd to entertain for one instant; +the ship is bound to sink, for iron can never be made to keep above +water.” + +The King and Queen of Würtemberg were both then at Ostend. Queen Olga, +who was a Russian Grand Duchess by birth, was said to be the handsomest +woman in Europe. She had very regular features, but was at that time +excessively pale and thin. Her niece, the Grand Duchess Olga, was the +first proposed _fiancée_ of Ludwig II., King of Bavaria. His Majesty, +however, refused to marry her. This is not generally known. The Grand +Duchess Olga afterwards married the late King George of Greece. + +King Leopold II. and Queen Henriette were at Ostend at that time with +their children, who used to drive on the sands in a small carriage drawn +by four cream-coloured ponies. Baron de Taintegnies was usually on the +Digue of an afternoon with the King, sitting down or walking about. + +Among my father’s friends at Ostend were Lord Orford and Lord Brownlow +Cecil. The latter was very fond of music, and married a lady there who +was a magnificent pianist. One day I can remember my father sitting in +the Casino with Henry Labouchere, an old Etonian, who had formerly been +in the Diplomatic Service. Labouchere was smoking a big cigar, and he +and my father had a long conversation. What it was about, I cannot say, +though they were continually laughing; and my father told me afterwards +that Labouchere was very amusing, and, though sarcastic, witty, and that +he rather liked him.[7] + +General Sir John Douglas, K.C.B., Commander of the Forces in Scotland, +and his wife, Lady Elizabeth Douglas, daughter of Earl Cathcart, were a +good deal with my parents at Ostend. The General used to take long walks +with my father, and he put my name down for his old regiment, the 79th +Highlanders, and for the Scots Guards. Sir John Douglas was extremely +kind to me in after years, and invited me to stay with him at Edinburgh; +but I could not get leave from my colonel at the time, and consequently +was obliged, to my great regret, to decline his kind invitation. + +My parents used very often to spend the summer months at Ostend, and +one year they occupied the apartments at the Hôtel de Prusse which +the Russian Ambassador, Prince Orloff, had just vacated. One day, +after washing my hands in my bedroom, I emptied the water out of the +window, for some unaccountable reason. Later in the day, the Princess +de Caraman-Chimay sent up her lady’s maid to say that a dress which the +Princess had intended wearing the following evening at a Court ball at +Brussels had been completely spoiled by the water. I was well scolded by +my mother for being the cause of this misfortune. + +The English clergyman at Ostend was a Mr. Jukes. He had a very +good-looking son, a boy about my own age. He told me that he was in the +habit of walking in his sleep, and showed me his bedroom window, which +had a padlock on it. When I asked him where the key of it was, he said +that they would not tell him, in case he might get up in the night, +unlock it, and walk on the roof of the house, which, he said, he had done +before. His father once met me with mine in the street, and when told +that I was going into the British Army, said that he entirely disapproved +of soldiers, and thought that the time was near at hand when there would +be no more wars and every dispute would be settled by arbitration. I +fancied at that time that Mr. Jukes’s prophecy might come true, but, as +subsequent events proved, we were very far indeed from its realisation. + +Both the King and Queen of the Belgians were very popular with the +inhabitants of Ostend. They used to walk on the Digue quite unattended, +and seemed in no way inconvenienced by the crowd, who always treated them +with the greatest respect. The King wore plain clothes, usually a dark +suit with a tall white hat, and never appeared there in uniform. A very +good story is told of Leopold II., who, some years ago, during the summer +months, was at Luchon, in the Pyrenees. The day after he arrived there, +the King sent for a hairdresser, and directed him to trim his silvery +beard. When the operation was over, His Majesty inquired what he had to +pay. + +“It will be twenty francs, Your Majesty,” replied the hairdresser without +hesitation. + +The King pulled out a two-franc piece, which he handed to this too +facetious Figaro. + +“I am accustomed,” said he, “to pay very well. Here is a two-franc piece. +It is a new Belgian coin, and you will see my head on it, as you wished +to pay yourself for it.” (“_Vous y verrez ma tête, puisque vous avez +voulu vous la payer._”) + +It is said that the hairdresser left without asking for the rest of the +money, and that, since this adventure, he placed over his shop a fine +board, inscribed: “Furnisher of H.M. the King of the Belgians.” + +My mother spent a summer at Spa, where she took a house with a garden +attached to it. I liked the place very much, and often went for rides on +a pony in the woods with the late Captain Lennox Berkeley, who afterwards +became Earl of Berkeley. The country round Spa is mountainous and very +charming. Spa itself is an exceedingly pretty place, situated in a valley +entirely surrounded by hills and woods, and the Ardennes are not far off. +But in the summer months the heat is intense, and, when the sun once gets +into the valley, there is often not a breath of air. The promenade, where +the band plays morning and evening, is charming, and it is very pleasant +to sit beneath the shady trees and listen to the excellent orchestra. I +often used to go there with my mother, particularly of a morning, when +all the _monde élégant_ used to forgather to listen to the music. The +gambling-rooms were then open for roulette and trente-et-quarante, and +Captain Berkeley used often to try his luck at them, but, unfortunately, +he was not successful. I can remember his giving me “Japhet in Search of +a Father,” by Captain Marryat, and recommending me to read it. I did so, +and it amused me very much. + +Another of my father’s friends, the late Captain Bromley, an old Etonian, +and a son of Sir Thomas Bromley, was at Spa at the same time. One day, +when I happened to tell him that I was going into the Army, he smiled, +and said that he never could hit off with his colonel. The latter +complained that he was always late for parade, and asked him if he did +not hear the bugles sound. He answered:— + +“Yes, sir—I hear the bugles, but there must be something wrong with +them, for they don’t sound the right note.” The Colonel soon found him +incorrigible, and he himself that he was never made for a soldier. + +Bromley told me that, when a boy, he was accustomed to dine off gold +plates and that everything he used at table was of gold. Suddenly, his +father died, and his elder brother inherited the title and estates, while +he was obliged to live on a few hundreds a year. This, he said, was the +fault of our law of primogeniture, which ought only to take effect in the +case of ducal houses, where the bearer of the title should be made to pay +an “appanage” to the other members of the family, as is the rule on the +Continent. + +It has often been asserted by authors of great authority that women are +much meaner than men; but I have known some instances to the contrary. +Once, during our stay at Spa, a gentleman called on my mother, and told +her that he had lost all he possessed, and asked her to lend him £50, +as he was anxious to rejoin his wife. My mother, who had known him for +years, said that she would give him all she had in the house—nearly +£40—for which he was very grateful, both at the time and when we met him +and his wife in later years. + +Once I was staying with my father at Desseins Hôtel, at Calais,[8] when +he told me that he had made the acquaintance of an Englishman, a certain +Captain Arthy, who was rather a singular character, indeed, highly +eccentric. It appeared that he had just lost his wife, and that he was so +distressed at her death that he wore all the trinkets which had belonged +to her on his watch-chain, to show his affection for her. He had not, +however, gone into mourning, and always affected a red tie, saying that +he wore the mourning in his heart, upon which he used to lay his hand as +he spoke. I was introduced to Captain Arthy, who was a bald-headed man, +with black side-whiskers and rather a red face, dressed in a light suit +of clothes. The quantity of charms on his watch-chain would have almost +filled the window of a jeweller’s shop, while numerous rings adorned his +fingers. He was perpetually smiling, displaying a set of very fine teeth +when he did so. + +He invited my father and me to see his rooms, which were full of gold and +silver cups, which he told us, had belonged to his late wife. The late +Mrs. Winsloe, whose husband was a friend of my father, was staying at +this hôtel. Mr. Winsloe was a well-known man in Somersetshire, but he had +recently gone out of his mind. His wife had been a great beauty, but she +was then terribly made up, with fair dyed hair. + +Mrs. Winsloe, who lived in very luxurious fashion, and occupied a very +fine set of rooms at Desseins Hôtel, said that Arthy was a cousin of her +husband, and showed us a cutting from the _Times_ about the death of Mrs. +Arthy, which had occurred in rather a tragic manner. One evening, when my +father and I were in her salon, she said to Arthy:— + +“I wish you would give one of your lockets to that little boy, as a +keepsake from me.” Arthy thereupon took off his watch-chain, and, after +hunting amongst his innumerable lockets, at length chose one, which he +unfastened, saying:— + +“Here is a nice gold locket that will do. Will you give him your photo to +put inside it?” + +“I haven’t got one,” replied Mrs. Winsloe. “Give him one of yours +instead.” So he cut round one of his photos and, inserting it in the +locket, handed it to me. “Now kiss Mrs. Winsloe,” said he, “for it is her +present to you.” I kissed the paint off her face, and she kissed me, and +I felt sure that she left a coloured impression on my face. But I was so +pleased with the locket, which I attached to my chain, that I did not +care in the least. + +Arthy drank champagne with Mrs. Winsloe, and the latter seemed rather +infatuated with him, which was not surprising, as he was a fine-looking +man, though his baldness detracted from his good looks. However, the lady +could not afford to be very _difficile_, being only an artificial beauty, +whose youth was but a memory. Formerly, she had had beautiful hair, +and it still reached to her waist. My father complimented her upon it, +observing:— + +“I never saw such lovely hair in my life, or such a perfect colour.” + +She looked pleased, and replied, smiling:— + +“Yes, I don’t think there are many women who have such fine hair.” + +“No, I am sure there are not,” remarked Arthy, who appeared to be +thinking of the gold locket which he had given away, for he looked at his +chain as he spoke. + +“He doesn’t half admire you,” said my father, laughing. + +“I am sure I do; I think my cousin the loveliest woman possible,” replied +the other, who appeared annoyed at my father’s remark. + +Mrs. Winsloe looked at Arthy and smiled, being evidently under the +impression that he was jealous, as he appeared angry with my father. + +The fact was that Arthy was anxious to ingratiate himself with Mrs. +Winsloe, as she was very wealthy. Accordingly, he pretended to admire +her, though it needed only half a glance to see that in reality he +considered her very far from beautiful. Mrs. Winsloe not only paid for +her own rooms at the hôtel, but all the expensive dinners which she and +Arthy had together were entered to her account. The latter had a great +partiality for naval officers, and as an American warship, the _Alabama_, +of the Confederate Navy, happened to be lying at Calais at this time, +he invited some of the officers to dine with him and Mrs. Winsloe. They +accepted, and were most sumptuously entertained, champagne flowing like +water. + +After staying six weeks with his cousin, Arthy left for England. Soon +afterwards, the officers of a British warship at Portsmouth received an +invitation from the Duke of St. Albans to dine with him at an hôtel. The +captain of the ship happened to be away, and, on his return, the other +officers told him what a good dinner he had missed and loudly praised the +ducal hospitality. + +“The Duke of St. Albans!” exclaimed the captain, in astonishment. “How +can you possibly have dined with him that evening? Why, the very same day +I was shooting quite near the duke’s property, and I happened to see +him! I will go to the hôtel and find out who it can be.” + +The captain lost no time in instituting inquiries, with the result that +the supposed duke was laid by the heels just as he was preparing to leave +Portsmouth, and turned out to be none other than the man who had passed +as Captain Arthy at Calais. It was subsequently ascertained that he was a +certain Comte d’Aubigny, a member of a very old and noble French family, +and that he had deceived several people in the same way. My father, on +hearing of this, remarked:— + +“It is the first time that I have been taken in by a man, but I am glad I +am not the only one he deceived.” + +The enterprising gentleman was afterwards brought to trial and sentenced +to seven years’ penal servitude. + +My parents sometimes spent the summer months at Boulogne, one year taking +a large house at some little distance from the sea, overlooking a public +garden. The late Captain Elwes, a nephew of the Duchess of Wellington, +who was Vice-Consul at Boulogne, was a friend of my parents. He was +devoted to painting, and, many years later, painted a miniature of an +American lady for his cousin, the Marquis of Anglesey. It was beautifully +painted, but, unfortunately, when it was finished, the Marquis had fallen +in love with another Transatlantic belle, so he did not appreciate the +miniature quite as much as he might have done, if his affections had not +been diverted from the original. Elwes hoped to be appointed Consul at +Boulogne, but whether he ever obtained that post, I cannot say. The last +time I met him was in Paris, many years later, at a dinner given by the +Marquis of Anglesey, at the Hôtel d’Albe, in the Champs Elysées. + +Lord Henry Paget, afterwards Marquis of Anglesey, was very fond of +Boulogne, and lived there with his first wife. The latter died at +Boulogne, quite suddenly, but the Marquis continued to visit the place, +and my father saw a good deal of him. + +George Lawrence, the author of “Guy Livingstone,” son of Lady Emily +Lawrence, was frequently at Boulogne, and often with my parents. I can +remember my father relating how one day he went with him to see one of +the lovely daughters of the Baron de Taintegnies off to Paris, and how +Lawrence was so infatuated with the young lady, that he jumped into the +train, without any luggage, merely to have the pleasure of travelling +with her all the way to Paris, a journey of about five hours. On reaching +Paris, he saw Mlle. de Taintegnies safely to her destination, and then +took the train back to Boulogne. + +My parents were particularly fond of Lawrence, who was good-humoured, +clever, and very amusing. I heard that he had a quarrel with Tom Hohler, +who married the Duchess of Newcastle, on account of having introduced +him into one of his novels, called “Breaking a Butterfly.” Hohler was +very friendly with my father in later years in Paris. We had a white +Pomeranian dog, and Tom Hohler asked my father to show it to the Duke of +Newcastle, who was then a child, living with his mother in the Avenue +d’Antin. The dog took such a fancy to the young Duke that it forsook +us for him entirely. I heard recently from the Duke of Newcastle, who +was kind enough to be interested in this book, that he remembered this +Pomeranian dog quite well, and told me its name—“Loulou”—which I had +entirely forgotten. The name recalled many things to my recollection. It +is strange how at times we forget a name, and then, when it is mentioned, +associations and incidents connected with it are suddenly recalled to our +memory and flash before us as in a dream. + +Tom Hohler sang for a time at Her Majesty’s Theatre. I never heard him +sing in operas, but I have been told that he had a very pleasing voice, +though it was not a very powerful one. It was said that when he sang in +private houses, he was paid £40 for every song. + +Harry Slade, a son of Sir Frederick Slade, stayed for a time at Boulogne +with his mother, of whom we saw a good deal; and, after Lady Slade’s +death, her son stayed for a long time at the Hôtel du Nord, where my +father and I often went to see him. He was a good talker and always very +entertaining. + +Mrs. Joe Riggs, an American lady, who afterwards became Princess Ruspoli, +was extremely fond of Boulogne, and generally spent the summer at the +Hôtel Impérial; but this was in later years. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + + A Painting by Romney—Hunter’s School at Kineton—Corporal + Punishment—A Sporting Parson—My Schoolfellows at Kineton—The + Warre-Malets—Lord Charleville. + + +Before going to school in England, I was taken to Richmond to see my +mother’s aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, who was now an old lady and lived in +a house near the Thames, for, as the Duchess of Gloucester, to whom she +had been lady-in-waiting, had been dead some years, she was no longer at +Court. In her younger days, Lady Caroline had been a good horsewoman and +had ridden very well to hounds. But, at this time, she was leading a very +quiet life, receiving only her relatives and friends. + +I can remember that in Lady Caroline’s drawing-room at Richmond there was +a most beautiful picture of her mother, Viscountess Stormont, British +Ambassadress to France and Austria, painted by Romney. It represented +the Countess in her own right, as she afterwards became, sitting beneath +a large tree and wearing a kind of loose _peignoir_ of a pale yellow +colour, like the colour of the sea just before a storm. The _peignoir_ +was fastened at the shoulder by a brooch, in which was a large yellow +stone. Her hair was dressed high above the head, in the style of Marie +Antoinette, in whose days her husband was Ambassador in France, and over +it she had a Scottish plaid of the clan to which she belonged. One leg +was crossed over the other, and her arms were folded. She was painted in +profile; her _peignoir_, open at the front, displaying a perfect bosom +and a beautiful, swan-like neck. Her hair possessed that glorious auburn +tint with shades of gold in it, which made it appear as though the sun +were shedding its full rays upon the gold tresses, one of which had +escaped from the rest and hung loose. Her face was of a tender oval, with +expressive eyes of a peculiar shade of green, like that of the sea when +the sun falls upon it, or as it is in Böcklin’s pictures. Her nose was +straight and delicate, with nostrils like those of a Greek statue. Her +mouth was unusually small, with a tiny upper lip, slightly curved; her +chin short and classical. The expression on the face was of pride, of +audacity, of childish innocence, of sentimentality, and it possessed a +marvellous charm and attraction. + +[Illustration: The Author’s Mother. + +[_To face p. 40._] + +This beautiful portrait, which Lady Caroline bequeathed to Earl Cathcart, +as he was the head of her mother’s family, was once seen by a wealthy +American, who said to the Earl, into whose possession it had then come:— + +“Have you ever seen such a lovely woman as this in all your life?” + +“No, I have not,” the Earl answered. + +“Well, I guess you haven’t,” rejoined the other, “and I don’t think there +ever was such a lovely woman on earth.” + +And he offered Lord Cathcart £20,000 down for the picture, which the +latter, though not a rich man, refused. The American then promised the +Earl’s son, Viscount Greenock, £500, if he could persuade his father to +accept the offer; but it was all of no avail. + +I showed Mr. Noseda, the well-known print-seller in the Strand, the +engraving of this picture by J. R. Smith, which had belonged to my +grandfather, when Mr. Noseda told me that he very much preferred the +engraving to the painting, as the latter had been so much touched up, +whereas the former was so beautifully executed in every detail that he +considered it finer than Romney’s portrait. This was after I had told him +about the offer of £20,000 which the American had made for the original +painting. + +Viscountess Stormont had been Ranger of Richmond Park, and was allotted, +as her official residence, the house which is now the Queen’s Hôtel. +An old gentleman whom I met at Richmond in later years told me that +he thought the hôtel ought to have been named after the Countess of +Mansfield, as Lady Stormont became later, instead of being called the +“Queen’s.” He remembered Lady Caroline Murray, and remarked that she was +one of those ladies of the old nobility who were scarce nowadays. + +Viscount Greenock afterwards became Earl Cathcart, and died in London +in 1911. He was at Eton with me, and afterwards joined the 23rd Welsh +Fusiliers, from which he was transferred to the Scots Guards. When at +Eton, he often came to my tutor’s house to see his cousin, Charles +Douglas, whose father had placed him there to be with me. The Hon. +Reginald Cathcart, a younger brother of Lord Cathcart, was in the 60th +Rifles, and I recollect giving him a letter to his colonel, Godfrey +Astell, in India,[9] when he first joined the regiment. Reginald +Cathcart, who was a very nice young man, tall, dark, and handsome, was +one of those unhappily killed in the Boer War. + +The school to which I was sent was at Kineton, near Warwick. It had been +recommended to my father by Lady Caroline Murray, who had heard of it +from the Duke of Buccleuch, and a cousin of mine, Greville Finch-Hatton, +was being educated there. When my father and I arrived, we were shown +into a sitting-room, looking out on to a garden, where we were received +by Mrs. Hunter, the headmaster’s wife. Mrs. Hunter was an old lady, whose +age, I afterwards ascertained, was about seventy. To guess it would have +been a difficult task, so terribly made up was she. Everything about her +was false: false teeth, false hair, and a false bust, giving her somewhat +the appearance of a wax figure at Madame Tussaud’s. She had, however, +very pretty white hands, with pointed fingers. She was dressed in black +satin, with a large gold brooch at her throat, and a long gold chain +round her neck, a costume which she always wore. + +“This, I presume, is your little son, whom you are leaving with us?” +said Mrs. Hunter to my father. “Will you tell me whether you belong to +the High or Low Church, as it is my province to look after the boys’ +religious instruction, and I am always interested to know.” + +The question was rather a poser for my father, who, I do not think, had +entered a church since he left England. So he turned to me and said:— + +“Tell the lady to what church you go with your mother.” + +I said that at Ostend I always went to the English Protestant Church. +Upon which Mrs. Hunter observed:— + +“I see, you have been living on the Continent, and foreigners have very +little religion. However, I will take care that your son has the proper +religious instruction.” + +Suddenly, the door opened, and an immensely stout man, of about +sixty-five, with mutton-chop whiskers and spectacles, entered the room, +and introduced himself as Mr. Hunter, the headmaster. + +In his youth Mr. Hunter had probably been an exceedingly handsome man, +and was still, apart from his corpulence, decidedly good-looking, with +a fine forehead, a small mouth with thin lips and very good teeth, and +regular features. + +After showing us over the school, Mr. Hunter sent for Greville +Finch-Hatton, telling my father that I should occupy a dormitory with my +cousin and two other boys. At eight o’clock, supper was served in a large +dining-room, where the presence of a new boy provoked a good deal of +talking amongst the other boys. Mrs. Hunter sat at one end of the table, +her husband at the other; and the meal was a cold one, carved on the +table, and consisting of cold meat, followed by bread and cheese, washed +down by draught beer. + +As soon as supper was over, we were sent to our dormitories, where I had +not been long in bed when my cousin leant over from his and asked if I +were asleep. On finding that I was awake, he told me that we must talk in +a very low voice, as talking was forbidden, and Mrs. Hunter occasionally +paid us a visit to see whether this regulation was being observed. The +two other boys in the room also began talking in low tones. Later on, +when they considered themselves pretty safe from detection, they talked +louder and carried on a long conversation about cricket, discussing who +were the best bowlers in the school and whether fast bowling was more +effective than slow. + +I could not sleep, and, for some unaccountable reason, felt very +miserable. At last I began to cry, at first quietly, but soon I was +unable to restrain my sobs. My cousin, hearing me, tried to console me, +saying that he, too, had found it hard to leave his parents at first. I +felt inclined to tell him that it was not that which made me cry, but I +thought better of it. Soon afterwards I fell asleep, and dreamed that I +was at Kirchhofer’s school at Frankfurt, and that Vogelsang was talking +to me. I even fancied that he kissed me, when I awoke suddenly, in +despair at finding where I was. + +Mr. Hunter was a very pleasant man, when he cared to be, which was by +no means always the case. He was most severe with everyone, and had no +particular favourites. Some boys he disliked, particularly those who +did not learn quickly, and those who were inclined to be noisy. He was +full of fun when he played football with us; making jokes and chaffing +different boys in turn. He was, however, quite a different kind of man in +school from what he was in the playground. + +On Sundays, we, of course, attended church. The clergyman who preached, +a Mr. Miller, had two voices: a very squeaky voice and a very gruff +one. When he preached in his squeaky voice, most of us would fall +asleep in the high pews, which screened us from the observation of the +headmaster; but when Mr. Miller altered his tone, and his deep, gruff +voice was suddenly heard, coming, as it were, out of a vault, we would +be disagreeably startled from our slumbers. The sermons, I am inclined +to believe, were bought ones, for Mr. Miller used sometimes to lose his +place in the midst of his discourse and come to a stop, and when he +continued, it was on quite a different subject. But it mattered little, +so far as we were concerned, for most of the boys were usually asleep, +and those who tried to listen could not follow the squeaky voice of the +preacher—which had all the disagreeable sounds of a clarionet played +badly—even by straining their ears, which few of them were disposed to do. + +Our French master, who was obliged to accompany us, used sometimes to +unfold the Paris _Figaro_ at full length and read it during the sermon. +Mr. Hunter, owing to the height of the pews, could not, of course, see +him, or he would most certainly have taken very strong exception to such +an irregular proceeding. One Sunday, when Monsieur happened to have +forgotten his _Figaro_, he passed the time of the sermon in an animated +conversation with Rush, the captain of the Eleven. Unfortunately for +the latter, Mr. Hunter happened to detect them; and, after church, he +sent for Rush, and, refusing to listen to his appeals, took him to the +schoolroom and, making him bend down, gave him a severe caning. + +When I first came to the school, I was chaffed about my pronunciation, +and Rush said:— + +“If you pronounce Themistocles like you do, I wouldn’t be in your shoes.” +Then he used to ask me questions about my German school, which at first +he laughed at. Soon, however, he took a great interest in it, making me +tell him about the boys there, what they were like and what they did. + +“It must be very much jollier than here,” said he, “and none of that +beastly caning and flogging, as there is at Kineton.” + +Mr. Hunter was certainly a devout believer in the precept: “Spare +the rod, and spoil the child;” indeed, he seemed to have a perfect +passion for caning the boys, and at times performed this operation with +astonishing zest. Sometimes, of an evening, in my dormitory, we would +play at being Mr. Hunter, each of us taking it in turns to personate the +master and beat the other boys with a hairbrush, in place of a cane. One +night, one of us happened to remark:— + +“I think it is a pleasure that would grow upon one, as it evidently does +upon old Hunter.” + +Scarcely had he said this, when, to our consternation, the door suddenly +opened, and the master appeared. The boys bolted into bed as fast as they +could, but it was too late, and we were told to come to Mr. Hunter’s +study after prayers the following morning. There, after we had been duly +admonished, we were all severely caned. + +Rush and other boys used to put hairs in the canes to split them; but Mr. +Hunter found this out, for one day, he broke six canes one after another. +He then rang for his whalebone whip, and we received a fearful thrashing, +with no time to prepare for it by padding our clothes with books. + +One day, the Duchess of Marlborough, who was a friend of Lady Caroline +Murray, called, and asked to see my cousin and myself. She was +accompanied by her son, Lord Randolph Churchill, and her visit to the +school was due to the fact that she thought of placing him there. But +Lord Randolph became too ill to go to school just then, and had a private +tutor at home instead, until he was old enough to be sent to Eton.[10] + +We often went for picnics to the charming woods of Compton Verney, +belonging to Lady Willoughby de Broke. That lady, who was always very +pleasant and full of fun, would sometimes come and talk to us and to Mr. +Hunter. The latter had formerly been private tutor to her eldest son, +and the school was on Lord Willoughby de Broke’s property.[11] The late +Hon. Rainald Verney, Lord Willoughby’s younger brother, was at school at +Hunter’s, before going to Eton, and often came to the school when I was +there, before he joined the 52nd Light Infantry. + +Mr. Hunter had a young and rather pretty niece, a girl of eighteen, with +black hair, who stayed for a time with him. She used to go into the boys’ +dormitories at night, when she would give them bonbons and generally kiss +them. But her stay at Kineton was so short that her presence there was +more like an angel’s visit than anything else. + +One day, the Rev. William and Mrs. Finch-Hatton called to see their son +and also asked to see me. Mrs. Finch-Hatton, who was at that time known +as the “Rose of Kent,” was a lovely woman, with very black hair and +regular features. She was a sister of Sir Percy Oxenden. She told me that +both she and her husband were struck by my great resemblance to their +son Greville; and Mr. Finch-Hatton very kindly gave me half a sovereign, +which I never forgot, as I rarely received any money from anyone. Mr. +Newenham, who had married a daughter of the Earl of Mount Cashell, and +was a clergyman in Ireland, also came to see his son. He played football +with us, and afterwards told us the following story:— + +“I was once asked to see an old woman in Cork who was dying. She asked +me to read the Bible to her, but as I was unprepared to find her so ill, +I had not brought one with me, nor had she one in the house. So I pulled +out a copy of _Bell’s Life_ which I happened to have in my pocket, and +read her an article from it, which, as she happened to be deaf, had +precisely the same effect upon her as the Bible would have had.” + +Mr. Newenham was a regular sporting parson, with, however, a good deal +more of the sportsman than the parson about him, but full of fun and very +agreeable. + +There was a boy named Charles Taylor at the school, who afterwards went +to Eton. His father, who had himself been at Eton, was a famous cricketer +and had played in the All-England Eleven. He was, however, somewhat +eccentric, having the most intense dislike of being asked his age; in +fact, when one put this question to him, he invariably answered that he +neither knew it nor wished to know it. He had also a strong objection to +anything of a violet colour, and if a person called to see him wearing +a tie or a dress of that colour, he always picked a quarrel with his +unfortunate visitor. + +Another boy at Kineton, whom I shall call L——, had the misfortune to be +afflicted with kleptomania, and would take everything he could lay his +hands on. Mr. Hunter used to break so many canes upon his back that he +said to him one day:— + +“I shall send the bill for all the canes I have broken in trying to +correct you to your mother, for you get worse and worse every day.” + +The school colours were scarlet and white, but they were only worn by the +cricket Eleven. As I was in the Eleven, I had this coveted privilege. +My cousin did not much care for cricket, and was fonder of riding and +shooting, at both of which he excelled. Mr. Hunter kept a pony for the +boys to ride. When he drove to Warwick, Leamington or Banbury, he would +take two of us with him, one boy riding the pony, while the other sat in +the pony-trap with the master. I can remember once riding to Warwick and +then to Stratford-on-Avon on the pony, which Finch-Hatton rode back to +Kineton. Most of the boys could ride well, and those who could not were +never taken by Mr. Hunter, save on one occasion, when I recollect that +the boy he took with him reminded me of certain Frenchmen whom one sees +riding in the Bois de Boulogne, who are afraid to let their horses go +beyond a walk. As my father used to say in Paris:— + +“They praise the Lord on their knees every time they come home safely and +are out of the saddle.” + +Greville Finch-Hatton was rather delicate, and, after making a voyage to +Australia, died quite young. + +Aubrey Birch Reynardson, who also slept in my dormitory, had a gift for +story-telling. One night he related to us the story of “Eric, or Little +by Little,” with which, I can remember, we were delighted. + +Mr. Hunter always wore spectacles. At times, by gaslight, when the gas +fell upon them, it looked as if his eyes were two flames, and that he +was an ogre ready to devour one of us, particularly when he took up his +cane, and glared at the culprit, through his spectacles, with fiery eyes. +But, taken on the whole, Mr. Hunter was a very good fellow, who would +never have done anyone an injury, apart from perhaps giving him a dose of +the cane. + +Among the boys who were at Hunter’s with me was Charles Home-Purves, who +was the head of the school. He afterwards went to Eton and took Lower +School instead of Fourth Form, at which Mr. Hunter was much disappointed. +His father, Colonel Home-Purves, was in attendance on the Duchess of +Cambridge, and was accidentally killed by the overturning of a carriage +in which he was driving with Her Royal Highness. He was so terribly +cut about the face by the glass of the carriage-window that he died +almost immediately. His son was offered a commission in the Guards, but +preferred entering the Rifle Brigade. However, he left the regiment +shortly afterwards, and died when very young. + +The late Earl of Lonsdale, before he succeeded his uncle in the title, +was also at Kineton with me. On one occasion, he ordered a lot of toys +from Cremer’s toy-shop, but when they arrived, Mr. Hunter was so startled +at the bill, which amounted to a considerable sum, that he had them at +once sent back to where they came from, telling Lowther, as he was then, +that he must make a better use of his money. He found life at Hunter’s +too restricted and not lively enough for him, so he only remained one +half, and then asked to leave the school. I met him at Eton with his +brother, the present Earl of Lonsdale. The latter was attached to the +Rifle Brigade, and was a very keen sportsman, I remember, when we were +both stationed at Winchester. + +One day, at Kineton, I was playing with Newenham, who happened to have +a pocket-knife open in his hand, and, by accident, I got a very ugly +stab in the back. Indeed, the doctor declared that, if the wound had +been one-eighth of an inch deeper, it would have been fatal. Newenham +was once mistaken for me by an uncle of mine at the Great Western Hotel, +Paddington, which amused both of them very much, particularly as I was +then at the same school as Newenham. He retired from the Army with the +rank of Major, and lives in County Kerry, for which he is a magistrate. + +Once, on the anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth,[12] Mr. Hunter took +us to Stratford-on-Avon, to show us the house where the poet was born +and to visit the theatre. Mr. Hunter was a good amateur actor, and +would sometimes get up plays for us to act. On one occasion, we played +“A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” Lady Willoughby de Broke, Lord and Lady +North, Sir Charles Mordaunt, and all the neighbouring county families +were invited to the performance, which went off fairly well. “Making up” +afforded us great amusement. One of the boys had learned this art from +his sister, and proved himself quite an adept at darkening the others’ +eyebrows and rouging their cheeks and lips. + +I happened to meet recently the Rev. Henry Knightley, brother of Sir +Charles Knightley. He had been at Kineton with me, but it was forty +years since we had met. From him I learned that Mr. Hunter had died at +Leamington after giving up his school, and that Rush had died quite early +in life, as well as several others who were there with us. It was quite a +pleasure for me, and, I think, also for him, to recall our school-days, +and even the canings I looked back upon with some regret, feeling that I +would willingly submit to them again, could I but return to those times. +We both agreed that we had not learned much at Kineton, but that, on the +whole, our life there with our schoolfellows had been a pleasant one. I +found that Knightley was under the impression that Greville Finch-Hatton +had inherited the title of Winchilsea, but I told him that my cousin was +dead, and that the present Earl of Winchilsea and Nottingham had been at +Eton with me, and was kind enough to interest himself in my book about +our school life. + +[Illustration: C. D. Williamson, at Eton with the Author. + +[_To face p. 50._] + +[Illustration: Miss Mabel Warre-Malet. + +[_To face p. 51._] + +The chief prize I got at this school was a copy of Longfellow’s poems, +beautifully bound and illustrated. I was very pleased at receiving it, +as Longfellow was at that time my favourite lyrical poet in the English +language. + +Most of the boys remained at Kineton until they were fourteen, when they +left for Harrow, Eton, Winchester, or some other public school. Greville +Finch-Hatton went to Wellington, Rush to Cheltenham, and Knightley to +Marlborough. + +During my holidays, I sometimes went to Taunton, to stay with an aunt +of mine, whose husband, a very kind man, was extremely fond of me. His +daughter’s chief friends were some children of the name of Warre-Malet, +nieces of the Ambassador, Sir Alexander Warre-Malet. The eldest girl, +Mabel, who was about thirteen, the same age as myself, was very pretty, +with brown hair, a lovely complexion and eyes of a deep blue. One +Christmas Eve, Mrs. Warre-Malet had a large Christmas tree, with numerous +presents attached to its branches, and we were invited to her house. +Every one of the children received a beautiful present from the tree, +which was illuminated by a great number of candles. Afterwards we played +at forfeits, and I was told to kiss Mabel Warre-Malet as a forfeit, an +act which I felt very shy about performing. “_Si jeunesse savait, si +vieillesse pouvait._” Another friend of ours was a girl whose name was +Amy; who was also about thirteen. She, too, was a very attractive little +lady, with long brown hair, hazel eyes with black lashes, an oval face, +and a small mouth with pearly white teeth. She had a cousin, the Earl of +Charleville, some years older than herself, who was staying at that time +with her people. One day she came with him to see my cousins, and said to +me: + +“Charleville can tell you all about Eton, if you want to know anything, +as he went to school there.” + +Lord Charleville had to go away before his companion, who remained to +tea. Afterwards, one of my cousins and I accompanied her part of the way +home, and, while we were crossing some fields, she suddenly exclaimed:— + +“Good gracious! my petticoat is coming down!” + +And she burst out laughing. + +My cousin Florence, a girl of thirteen, told me to walk on, while she +pinned up Amy’s petticoat. But this proved a more difficult task than she +had bargained for, as a string fastening had been broken, and it ended in +Amy being obliged to take her petticoat off and carry it as a parcel. The +two girls laughed consumedly at this mishap and its victim said to me:— + +“Don’t you tell anyone that you saw me take my petticoat off, or I will +never forgive you.” + +I assured her that on no consideration would I breathe so much as a +syllable, and, on leaving us, she said:— + +“As you are going away, you may give me a kiss, if you like.” + +Which I did right gladly, as you may suppose. + +A few days later, I met Charleville at an evening party in Taunton, at +which he paid marked attention to the daughter of the house, a very +pretty girl. I recollect meeting at this party two of the daughters of +the vicar of Taunton, Elsie and Audrey Clark, the elder of whom was +thirteen, while her sister was three years younger, and was much struck +by their beauty, which was quite out of the common. One of them had the +most lovely hair, of the same exquisite colour as that which one sees +in Titian’s paintings; the other’s hair was also very beautiful, but of +a more auburn shade; and both sisters had the most charming complexion. +I danced repeatedly with one of them; _mais mon cœur balançait entre +les deux_, so far as their attractions were concerned. The girl with +the Titian hair afterwards married the fourteenth Lord Petre, while her +sister married his uncle. + +Lord Charleville was a tall, good-looking youth, with wavy brown hair +and regular features, but he was very delicate, being consumptive. After +serving for a year in the Rifle Brigade, his health obliged him to resign +his commission. He then went for a voyage in his yacht, but derived +little benefit from it, and died before reaching his majority. + +The late Mrs. O. Warre-Malet told me that, when she was quite a young +girl, she and her sister went to Ascot races on foot and disguised as +boys for a joke, and that they got a good deal of money from people +who were driving to the course. Her sister married the Hon. Humble +Dudley-Ward, and after her husband’s death, the late Duke of Richmond +made her an offer of marriage. This she refused, but accepted Mr. Gerard +Leigh, who was an immensely wealthy man. After his death she became the +wife of Monsieur de Falbe, and died some years ago. + + + + +CHAPTER V + + My Mother’s Recollections—The Cercle des Patineurs—Patti—Our + _Appartement_ in the Rue d’Albe + + +My parents were at this time living in Paris, in a small hôtel in the +Avenue d’Antin, which was so shut in by the houses that surrounded it, +that the rooms were very dark, and, as it was winter, this made the house +seem more gloomy than it would have done at another season of the year. + +I was quite enchanted with Paris; everything about it delighted me, so +different was it from any city I had ever seen. The only thing that +displeased me was the hôtel in which we lived. Not only was it gloomy, +but nothing could be seen from the windows, except a kind of courtyard, +resembling a _patio_ in Spain. This courtyard was filled with flowers, +very prettily arranged; nevertheless, it was depressing to be unable to +see anything else when you looked out of the window. + +I remember being taken to a box at the Théâtre des Italiens to hear +Adelina Patti, in _La Gazza ladra_, by Rossini. It was the first time +that I had heard her sing, and I was, of course, delighted with her +voice; but my mother was disappointed, and I recall what she said at the +time:— + +“After having heard Grisi, Malibran, and even Jenny Lind, I do not +think Patti is to be compared with them, neither so far as her voice is +concerned, nor as an actress. She reminds me at times of Jenny Lind, yet +I prefer the latter infinitely.” + +My mother always had her own box at Her Majesty’s in the days when +Grisi, Lablache, Malibran, and the dancers Taglioni, Fanny Elssler and +Cerrito were enchanting the audience. One evening, during the visit of +the Tsar Nicholas I. of Russia to England, my mother was invited by the +Duke of Sussex and Mlle. d’Este to a box at the Opera facing that which +the Tsar and Queen Victoria occupied. The Duke of Sussex paid £500 for +this box. + +My mother told me that the two finest sights she ever beheld in her +life were the Coronation of Queen Victoria, when the peeresses all put +on their coronets, sparkling with diamonds, emeralds and rubies, at the +moment Her Majesty was crowned in Westminster Abbey; and at the Queen’s +accession, when hundreds of schoolchildren, dressed in white and light +blue, knelt down and recited the Lord’s Prayer by St. Paul’s, after which +the Benediction was pronounced by the Archbishop of Canterbury. + +My mother often met Disraeli in London society; and she told me that, +in his youth, he always wore several diamond rings over his white kid +gloves, and that she thought him a most affected and conceited young +man. The two Greek countesses described in “Lothair” were the Countesses +Zancarol. One married Colonel Lemesurier, of the Royal Horse Artillery; +the other Major Geary, R.A. The latter married couple often dined with us +in Paris, where Mrs. Geary was considered a great beauty. Major Geary and +his brother, Sir Henry Le Quay Geary, K.C.B., were lifelong friends of my +parents. + +My maternal grandfather, Lieut.-General the Hon. George Murray, to whom +George III. and his Queen were godfather and godmother, commanded the 2nd +Life Guards. For ten years he refused to accept his pay, on account of a +quarrel which he had with the Duke of York. So far as I can recollect, +the cause of the quarrel was as follows:— + +During the Peninsular War, an outward-bound troopship, having some troops +on board commanded by my grandfather, and a great quantity of heavy +luggage belonging to the Duke of York, encountered very bad weather, and +was in danger of foundering. In order to lighten the vessel, the captain +wanted to throw all the horses overboard. But this my grandfather would +not allow, and proposed that the Duke’s luggage should be sacrificed +instead, which was accordingly done, to the intense indignation of His +Royal Highness, when he heard of it afterwards. + +The statue to the Duke of York, erected in London, was reported to +have been built so high in order to place him beyond the reach of his +creditors, whose name was legion. + +My grandfather used to say that he never could understand how the Duchess +of Sutherland, with her £365,000 a year, could bring herself to stand +the whole evening at the Opera behind the Prince Consort, who was only +an insignificant German prince, with a tiny principality. His opinion of +George IV. was that it would puzzle anyone who knew him to discover a +good quality that he possessed. + +It was about this time, when my parents were living in the Avenue +d’Antin, that I first saw Hortense Schneider in _les Voyages de +Gulliver_, at the Châtelet Théâtre, which all Paris rushed to see. The +play was a charming one, and the children were particularly delighted +when the Liliputians, represented by tiny little wooden figures, moved +about the stage. Hortense Schneider, of course, represented Gulliver, and +sang some very pretty songs in the course of the play. + +The late Arthur Post, a young American living with his family in Paris, +fell desperately in love at this time with Hortense Schneider, though +she was very much older than himself. He drove about the Bois with +her, accompanied her to theatres, and, in fact, was always with her. +His infatuation greatly distressed his parents, and was the subject of +universal comment. However, he did not marry her, though that was not his +fault, as Hortense Schneider had several royal and other princes ready +to lay their fortunes at her feet; and it was not until several years +afterwards that she chose a very wealthy banker for her husband. + +Fioretti was then the _première danseuse_ at the Grand Opéra. Her +dancing always gave me greater pleasure than anything else there. She +was, besides, very beautiful, and King Ludwig II. of Bavaria was so +captivated by her graceful dancing and personal attraction, that he +induced her to leave Paris for Munich, to dance there instead. + +I went also to the Palais-Royal, and saw _le Train de Minuit_, a play +in which a railway-carriage is by accident left behind in the middle +of the night at a station, and the people awake and find themselves +at some miserable little village, instead of in Paris, as they had +expected. They, of course, cannot obtain what they require in the way of +refreshments, and are nearly perishing with cold, as it is the depth of +winter, and the carriage is no longer heated; and the complications that +ensue are very amusing. + +One day, I went with my parents to Saint-Germain, to visit Captain +and Mrs. Lennox Berkeley, who were living there. Their son, Hastings, +a good-looking boy, told us that his father was learning to play the +zither, which Captain Berkeley showed us, though he could not be +persuaded to let us hear him play it. Saint-Germain, with its charming +woods and pretty walks, is delightful in summer, the country all around +being lovely. When we returned to Paris, I did not give my father any +peace until he had bought a zither for me. It was not easy to obtain +one, and I remember that we wandered about half Paris, until at length +we discovered what we wanted in the Rue de Rivoli. I had also great +difficulty in finding a master, until finally I discovered a German who +played the instrument very well. + +In the winter months, I went several times with my father to the Cercle +des Patineurs. This was a very exclusive and very expensive resort, +where, to secure admittance for yourself and family, you had to be a +member of the Jockey Club, while each person had to pay twenty francs in +the afternoon and forty francs in the morning and evening. There were +some Americans who skated marvellously, amongst them being Mrs. Ronalds, +who was a very fine skater. I was told that Napoleon III. and the Empress +Eugénie admired her graceful skating so much that they complimented +her on several occasions at the Cercle des Patineurs, and she became a +frequent guest at the Tuileries. The Princess Metternich, the Austrian +Ambassadress, was also an _habituée_; in fact, the place was patronized +by all the _beau monde_ of those days. + +I frequently went at that time to Musards’ concerts, which on fine +summer evenings were given out of doors, in a garden, and always enjoyed +them immensely. Sometimes I went with my mother to meet friends there; +but when I went alone, I usually sat with the Piétris, near relatives +of the Préfet de Police, who was so much attached to the Emperor and +Empress. Their daughter, Julie, was a lovely girl of thirteen, and +when I had learned to play the zither better, we often performed duets +together, as she was a most accomplished pianist. I can remember we +often played Schubert’s _Ständchen_, which sounded very well, as it +is rather melancholy. Sad airs, in my opinion, are best suited to the +zither, particularly when it is accompanied by the piano. When the German +who was teaching me the zither left Paris, I took lessons from a Mlle. +Reichemberg, who, at that time, was also teaching Adelina Patti, and +learned a Polish romance which the latter was very fond of playing. Patti +became extremely fond of the zither, which she played a good deal in her +leisure hours, though she never sang to it, I was told. + +Hofrath Hanslick, the late celebrated critic of the Austrian _Neue Freie +Presse_, said of Patti:— + +“She appears to me to be most perfect in rôles like Zerlina, in _Don +Juan_, Norina, in _Don Pasquale_, Rosina, in the _Barbiere di Seviglia_. +What a fresh, youthful voice, which in its range from the tenor C to +F in alt, moves about with such wonderful ease! The most perfect and +delightful, though, were the lively rôles of Patti, principally the one +of Zerlina, in _Don Juan_. She gave us the true ideal of Zerlina. With +these advantages, and especially, too, in the development of dazzling +virtuosity, Patti shines as Rosina in Rossini’s _Barbiere_, and as +Norina in Donizetti’s graceful opera, _Don Pasquale_. In the _Barbiere_ +one can judge best, perhaps, of her marvellous art in singing. Of her +later rôles, in Leonora, in Verdi’s _Trovatore_, she attained almost the +highest pitch. The _Traviata_, which is decidedly a far better opera, +shows Patti to more advantage dramatically. I always disliked _Dinorah_, +almost as much as I did formerly the _Traviata_, which I saw the first +time badly performed. Two rôles of Patti which I cannot praise as much as +the two before-mentioned are Valentine, in the _Huguenots_, and Gretchen, +in the _Faust_ of Gounod. In the valse of Venzano, she sings a roulade +of seventeen bars in one breath, smiling, as if it were child’s play. +There is no doubt that the Valentine of Pauline Lucca and the Marguerite +of Christine Nilsson surpass the performance of Patti in these rôles. +A clever writer once called Italy the conservatoire of God. In this +conservatoire Adelina Patti has without doubt taken away the first prize.” + +One Sunday evening, I went with Captain Berkeley to see some fine +illuminations in the Champs-Elysées. I recollect telling him how much I +disliked a crowd, to which he replied:— + +“It is the only day on which the poor people can enjoy themselves, and +they have as much right to do so as the rich. I am always so delighted to +see the poor creatures happy.” One day, a beggar came up to him and asked +for some coppers, upon which he said to him:— + +“_Mon cher ami, c’est défendu de mendier, mais voici un franc; ne le +faites plus._” + +I called one day with my father at an hôtel in the Champs-Elysées. As +the lady we had come to see happened to be out, we were asked to wait in +a salon, where an English lady sat, reading. My father made some casual +remark about its being fine weather to be out of doors, to which the lady +answered that she had only just arrived in Paris and intended to have a +rest. My father then said that he supposed she would go out the next day. + +“No,” was the answer. “I told you, I have come here for a rest.” + +He asked how long she intended resting, when she replied: + +“Six months.” + +My father was so astonished at this reply that he was quite unable to +refrain from laughing, which rather annoyed the lady. On our leaving the +hôtel soon afterwards, he said to me: + +“That old woman is mad with her rest, and to come to Paris, of all +places, to have it. She must be out of her mind.” + +I frequently went to the galleries of the Louvre and the Luxembourg, +and always had a great liking for Greuze’s paintings, particularly the +_Cruche Cassée_ and _l’Accordée du Village_. The former I have often seen +in engravings by Masard and other engravers, but no reproduction has ever +come up to the beautiful face of the original. There is always _quelque +chose à désirer_ in the copies, and even in the photographs from the +picture itself; it is something in the expression, and not alone in the +colouring. + +At the time of which I am speaking, there was a Spaniard in Paris, a +friend of some acquaintances of ours, who built a large hôtel and a +theatre for himself attached to it. The former was heated to a certain +temperature, and his doctor called upon him every day, receiving a +napoleon for each visit, and on certain fête days a hundred francs. The +doctor used merely to feel his patient’s pulse, when he was not ill. This +Spaniard had two lady friends, a brunette and a blonde, each of whom +was in the habit of spending certain fixed days in the week with him. +Notwithstanding the very regular life he led, he did not attain the age +of forty, but died of fever almost suddenly. He was an immensely wealthy +man, but of a very nervous temperament. During the winter he never went +out of doors, from fear of taking cold. + +Lord Lyons, who was then British Ambassador in Paris, was celebrated for +two things particularly, apart from his diplomatic capabilities: his +horses and the excellent dinners he gave. An old Englishman, of over +seventy, with whom we were well acquainted, used to look forward to +dining at the British Embassy for weeks in advance. But his wife said she +positively dreaded his going there, as he was invariably laid up for a +fortnight after partaking of one of these too-appetizing banquets. + +In the following summer, my parents left the Avenue d’Antin and lived +for a time in the Avenue Joséphine, until an _appartement_ which my +mother had taken unfurnished in the Rue d’Albe, in the Champs-Elysées, +had been got ready for us. I recollect she ordered the furniture from +the celebrated Maison Krieger, in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine. The salon +was furnished in Louis Quinze style, with some tiny chairs with gilt +backs and the seats in satin with designs of various birds of gorgeous +plumage in different colours, all worked in silk by hand. The sides +of the fauteuils were of gilt, while the backs and the seats were all +in Aubusson tapestry, representing roses on a white foundation. The +sofa was in Aubusson to match the fauteuils, the curtains as well. The +carpet, which covered the middle of the room only, as the floor was a +parquet, was a lovely design with a white foundation, the edges of which +and the centre represented clusters of red and pink roses. The carpet +was in Aubusson tapestry, and rather a small one, though my mother had +paid 7,500 francs for it. Dr. Bishop, brother-in-law of the late Lord +Iddesleigh, declared that the carpet was so lovely that he was really +afraid to walk on it. He was a very tall, stout man, and he always sat +on the delicate chairs in preference to the others. This made my mother +feel very uneasy, less because she feared that the chair might get +broken than because she was afraid that he might have a severe fall. +The tables in the salon were Louis Quinze style, in marqueterie, all +inlaid with tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl in Boule style, and on the +chimney-piece stood a clock and various figures and lamps in old Sèvres +porcelain. The walls were white, with gold decorations, and were adorned +with numerous mirrors. I asked my mother to have my bedroom furnished in +yellow and black satin, which she had done. I was extremely fond of the +Austrian national colours, and, besides, they were the same as those of a +room which I had occupied some little time before when on a visit to Mrs. +Reynolds, formerly Miss Lethbridge, at Poundsford Park, near Taunton. + +As I was about to go to Eton, my mother was anxious that I should have +the correct Eton collar. No one in Paris knew what it was like, so Lady +Caroline Murray sent her the pattern of a collar worn by one of the twin +brothers Lambton, who were both then at Eton. The elder is now Earl of +Durham. The Eton jacket was also a bit of a puzzle, and, though I had it +made as near the correct thing as possible, I found, when I got to Eton, +that, to be quite in the mode, I must get my jackets made by Manley, of +Windsor. This I did all the time I was at Eton, as well as other clothes +I wore there. + +[Illustration: The Author. + +Aged 9. Aged 14. Aged 16. + +[_To face p. 62._] + + + + +CHAPTER VI + + I go to Eton—New Boy Baiting—My House Master—Mr. James’s + “Jokes”—My Room at Eton—Some Eton Masters—A Disorderly + Form—Lacaita’s Silk Hat—“Billy” Portman + + +There was a certain _cachet_ attached to an Etonian in those days which I +have not found with boys of any other school, assuredly not in England. +I may almost say not in Europe, except, perhaps, with those of the +Theresianum, in Vienna. I might almost repeat what the well-known German +Socialist, Ferdinand Lassalle, wrote to a Russian lady, in comparing the +German women of the middle class with those of the aristocracy, which +latter class might stand for Etonians of those days in comparison with +boys of other schools: “The women have not that aroma of amiability, that +_cachet_ of good manners, which is indispensable for every woman who has +lived in aristocratic circles. There are certainly exceptions, but they +are very rare.” + +In the autumn of 1866 my father took me to Windsor, where we put up +at the White Hart Hotel. Then we walked to Eton and entered the first +master’s house we came to, that of the Rev. C. C. James. It stood near +the wall of a cemetery, which some of the rooms overlooked. My father +informed the master that he had come to place me at the school, but +really did not know one house from another, and that, if Mr. James would +care to take me into his house, he would be very glad to leave me in +his charge. Mr. James replied that it was unusual for him to take a boy +of whom he knew nothing, without having his name entered beforehand, or +without some recommendation. But whether it was that my father contrived +to talk him over, or that he thought he would run the risk of my turning +out a bad bargain, after Mr. James had asked my age and where I had been +to school, it was decided that I should stay at his house. My father, I +think, was the most pleased, for, from what Mr. James had said, he had +been anticipating some difficulty in finding a house for me at all, as at +certain masters’ houses a boy’s name had to be entered years beforehand. +But my father generally trusted to chance in everything, and what seemed +impossible to most people was for him often an easy matter. + +Mr. James showed us over the boys’ rooms, and, though I should have +much preferred having one looking out on Windsor, with a fine view of +the Castle, I had to be content with the end room in the front of the +house, which had a view of the college chapel, and was quite close to +the cemetery. My father told him that he did not think I was afraid of +ghosts, when Mr. James told him that the cemetery was of very ancient +date, and no longer used for burial purposes. He then showed us the beds, +which were closed up in the daytime, in such a way as to present the +appearance of cupboards, and said that he would get me a bureau similar +to that which every boy had there. + +My father soon took his departure and went back to the “White Hart,” +upon which I was handed over to the housekeeper, who invited me to sit +in her room, and gave me some tea. I remained there until the evening, +when some of the boys began to arrive. As might be expected, I was far +from being at ease, and felt like someone entering on a new existence, +in a completely different world from the one in which he had lived. The +housekeeper inquired whether I did not know some of the boys at James’s, +and told me their names. To which I replied that I did not know even one +of them, though I knew some boys at other houses. At what houses they +were, however, I could not say. She said that the boys I mentioned were +higher in the school than I was likely to be placed, and that they would +not condescend to speak to so humble a person as myself, and that I must +make acquaintances of my own age, which I would soon do. + +I had not long to wait before some of the boys arrived, and presently +came into the housekeeper’s room. But I do not recollect one of them +speaking to me then, and shortly afterwards I set out for Windsor, as my +father had got permission for me to dine with him at the “White Hart,” +before he left for London, on his way back to Paris. + +When I returned to James’s alone, I went into the housekeeper’s room, +in which I found several boys, who regarded me with a curiosity which +I found decidedly embarrassing. The first who spoke to me was a very +nice-looking boy of sixteen, named Gaskell, who was in the Remove. He +asked me my name, and whether I thought I should pass into the Fourth +Form. I replied that I did not feel at all sure of doing so. At that +moment another new boy, named Temple, with fair hair and a very plain +face, entered the room, to whom Gaskell put the same questions as he had +to me. Temple did not appear over-burdened by modesty, and had no doubt +whatever about passing into the Fourth Form. + +“Of course I shall,” he declared confidently, putting his hands in his +trousers pockets and looking very important. + +Suddenly some other boys came in. + +“Here are some new fellows,” said Gaskell. + +“What are they like?” asked the others. “Let’s have a look at them.” + +“This chap here—Temple his name is—seems devilish confident about +himself; expects to get into the Fourth Form at once.” + +“I say,” exclaimed a fair, good-looking boy, who was bigger than Gaskell +and taller, and whose name was John H. Locke, “so you expect to pass +easily? Where do you come from?” + +“From London,” replied Temple, colouring slightly. + +“From what school?” + +“I was educated at home by a tutor.” + +“Indeed! Well, you give yourself airs of importance that won’t do here, I +can tell you. We’ll soon knock them out of you.” + +Temple put his hands in his trousers pockets and shrugged his shoulders, +while his not very prepossessing countenance assumed an expression that +was almost diabolical. + +“You look like the devil,” said Locke, laughing. + +“So he does,” exclaimed some of the others; and one boy added:— + +“I say, Satan, what an ugly mug you have!” + +Temple darted a glance of withering scorn at the speaker, but could not +trust himself to reply. + +“That’s a good name for him,” remarked Locke. “Mug, I say, Mug, mind you +pass your exam. well, and don’t look so fiendish when one speaks to you, +for it won’t pay.” + +Saying which he took his departure, leaving Temple to digest the advice +he had given. + +The exam. came off in due course, when Temple failed to qualify for the +Fourth Form, and was put into the Lower School; while I passed into the +Lower Fourth, which was more than I expected to do. All the boys at +James’s were pleased, for they had taken a great dislike to Temple. The +latter, however, was not in the least disheartened at not taking the +Fourth Form, but put his hands in his pockets, shrugged his shoulders, +and looked at the other boys as contemptuously as before. He was at once +given to Alexander, the Captain of the Oppidans, as a fag, while I was +allotted to Locke. Alexander never spoke to Lower boys, except to fag +them, so Temple had merely to do what he was told. I had a very easy time +of it with Locke, who had other fags besides. Sometimes Locke would ask +me to sit down in his room and talk to him, when he would often give me +fruit and bonbons. He was about eighteen, in the Sixth Form, and rowed in +the _Monarch_; but C. R. Alexander was Captain of the House and Head of +the School, or what is termed Captain of the Oppidans, to distinguish him +from the Captain of the Collegers, nicknamed Tugs, who are boys on the +foundation and obliged always to wear a gown. + +A boy named James Doyne, who became a great friend of mine, messed with +me, that is to say, we took our breakfast and tea together in his room, +as it was larger than mine. I often did his French lessons for him out +of school, and helped him with others, as he was in the Lower School. +Sometimes, he bought beefsteaks for breakfast, and I would cook them +downstairs while he was in school, as he was often kept behind by his +master. So occasionally, when I happened to be very hungry, I would not +only eat my own steak, but a part of his as well, which used to make him +very angry. + +Doyne told me once that his father knew a gentleman who, on being +introduced to another, said:— + +“You are the son of a tailor, I believe, are you not?” + +“Yes,” was the reply, “and I will take your measure.” + +The tailor’s son never rested until he had ruined the other. + +It seems a great pity that duelling is not allowed in England, as it +would oblige some men in this country to mend their manners, even if the +duel were restricted to the use of the _épée_ alone, and were to cease at +the first sign of blood. Anyway, it would be better than the senseless +actions for libel, which cost a great deal of money, and are quite +unknown in other civilized countries. + +I had very little to do with my tutor, Mr. James, being up to another +master in school. He was a Mr. Luxmoore, a young, rather good-looking +and very pleasant man. My tutor only took the Fifth Form pupils of his +own division, but at times he would see how the boys in his house were +progressing in their studies. Mr. James was a rather tall and thin man, +about thirty-seven, with a long, fair, almost reddish beard and no +moustache. His eyes were blue, and he had a habit of looking away from +people while he talked, and when he became nervous he used to stammer, +but not very perceptibly. Although he could not be called handsome, +he was by no means bad-looking, having a very pleasant expression and +beautiful teeth. + +We had to be in school at 7 a.m. in the summer, and 7.30 a.m. in the +winter, and the lesson lasted an hour. Then we went back to our rooms for +breakfast, or, rather, had to go to our fagmaster and cook his breakfast +first. But Locke hardly ever required this service of me, as he generally +made another of his fags do it for him. At 9.15 we all had to attend +Chapel, which lasted half an hour. Then school again till 10.30, and from +11.15 till 12. The two hours after this were called, “after twelve,” +which one usually spent in one’s tutor’s pupil-room. Dinner was at 2 +p.m., then school again from 2.45 till 3.30, and then from 5 to 6. After +this the boys were free till the time for “lock-up,” which changes with +the time of year. In the summer it was at 8.45. A half-holiday was just +the same until dinner, but in the afternoon “absence” was called at 3 +p.m. in the winter and at 6 p.m. in the summer. “Absence” is a call-over +of the names, which takes place in the school yard. Its object was to +prevent boys from going too far away, and ensuring that they should be +back in time for “lock-up.” When a master did not come for “absence,” it +was termed a “call”; and the boys only waited five or six minutes for him. + +In addition to the work done in school and pupil-room, we had work to do +in our own rooms, especially on a Sunday, when we had Sunday Questions to +write out. The half-holidays were on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, +and on Sundays, besides attending Chapel, we had the Sunday Questions to +answer. This usually occupied us several hours. + +There was a boy at James’s who was then in the Remove, called Craven, a +tall, dark, good-looking fellow, who dressed well and had an umbrella +with a death’s-head handle carved in ivory, which he never opened, even +when it poured with rain, from fear that he would not be able to fold it +again so neatly as it was then done up. He always wore the most expensive +silk hats he could buy, and habitually scented himself with patchouli. +One rainy day, when all James’s Lower boys were in his pupil-room, in the +house, Mr. James called up Craven, and said to him:— + +“Craven, why don’t you sign your name in full: Fulwar John Colquilt +Craven?” + +“I do, sir,” answered Craven. + +“But you don’t—merely Fulwar Craven. Don’t you own the John Colquilt?” + +All the boys began to titter, and Craven laughed and said:— + +“I suppose I don’t, sir.” + +“Why do you stupid boys giggle?” exclaimed Mr. James. “There is nothing +to laugh at because Craven won’t own his name, John Colquilt, which is a +very nice one.” + +The boys went on laughing all the more, at which the master was furious, +and cried: + +“I will make you all write out a book of the _Iliad_ if you don’t stop +giggling at once.” + +This threat had the desired effect, and gravity was restored; but it did +not last very long. A good-looking boy named Ady, who was at Miss Evans’s +Dame’s house, but was a pupil of my tutor, and who wore a lot of gold +charms on his watch-chain, came up to Mr. James to ask some questions, +when the latter said:— + +“Ady, I wonder you don’t wear bracelets with all those jingling things; +you are more like a girl.” + +Thereupon all the boys began to titter again, while Ady blushed, but did +not make any reply. On returning to his seat, however, he put out his +tongue at Mr. James, who happened to be looking in another direction, and +then smiled, when the boys began to laugh with a vengeance. + +“Stop that laughter,” screamed the exasperated master, his eyes sparkling +with wrath, “or I’ll have all of you swished in turn. I won’t stand this +nonsense any longer. First of all with Craven, who is scented like a fast +lady, and then with Ady, who is covered with jewellery like another; I +might just as well keep a girls’ school.” + +The giggling now became downright laughter, which the boys were quite +unable to restrain. At last, Mr. James began to see that he had made a +joke, which flattered his vanity, so he smiled, and said:— + +“Yes, even the boys are laughing at you both.” + +This was too much for his audience, who roared with laughter, until, +after a while, the master said:— + +“Now, I think, we have laughed enough; I hope it will be a lesson to them +both.” + +Craven and Ady nearly split their sides with laughing, as well as the +others. + +“I see I can do nothing with you to-day,” remarked Mr. James, “these +laughing moods are very distressing; it upsets the whole of the lessons. +I must be more serious with you, and not permit myself even a joke. I see +it plainly more and more every time.” + +At last the merriment subsided, but presently some of the boys began +laughing again. + +“What is the joke now?” exclaimed the master. “Tell me, for I should like +to know. I can see nothing whatever to laugh at now.” + +“Please, sir,” answered Craven, “you make a joke, and you won’t even +allow us to laugh at it.” + +“Oh, well! if it is that that you are laughing at, I suppose it is all +right,” said Mr. James, who was gradually regaining his good-humour, and +presently the boys were dismissed. Afterwards there was great fun made at +his expense, Craven and Ady being highly amused. + +Mr. James was nicknamed “Stiggins” by the boys who had been with him +at Eton, and, although unpopular out of his house, he was not so in +it. There were much more disagreeable tutors at Eton at the time of +which I am speaking, some of them perfect horrors. Mr. James was a +good-hearted man, and was very kind at times, though he was very brusque +in his manner, and in the habit of speaking his mind without the least +reservation. He had no particular favourites, but, on the other hand, +he did not take any violent dislikes, and was just enough, apart from +occasional sallies against certain boys. These he indulged in under +the impression that he was being witty, and not infrequently the jokes +he made were at his own expense. He had a good memory and could recite +innumerable verses from Greek and Latin poets, but he was a poor orator. +He was a good chess-player, and often played with the boys, giving them a +queen and sometimes a rook as well, and generally beating them. Sometimes +he played with another master, Mr. Wayte, a middle-aged man, with a +grey beard, who could play twenty-five games of chess at the same time +blindfolded, and win most of them. Mr. James once beat Mr. Wayte, after +which he would never play with him again, wishing to be able to say that +the last time he played with him he had succeeded in gaining the victory. +I often played chess with my tutor, on which occasions he usually gave +me a queen. Sometimes I managed to beat him, and once when I had been +successful, he said to me:— + +“You have beaten me, and I have beaten Wayte, who is one of the finest +players in Europe. So, in winning the game to-day, you have something to +be proud of.” + +We always tried to make our rooms at James’s as comfortable as possible. +I had a fancy at that time for pictures of horses, and bought a set +of steeplechase ones, by Alken, printed in colours and published by +Ackermann. I had also a picture of Hermit, the Derby winner of 1865, by +Harry Hall, which was also printed in colours. In the summer, like the +other boys, I had geraniums and other flowers in a large green wooden +box, which was made to cover the length of my window-sill. I spent, +however, more of my time in Doyne’s room, which was nearer the road, and +farther away from the cemetery. It was a more cheerful room, containing +several arm-chairs. Besides, we always messed together and took our meals +there, and so I looked on the room almost as being my own. Alexander and +Locke had two rooms each. The latter had quite a collection of silver +cups, which he had won at Eton, and his sitting-room was decorated with +numerous trophies of the Boats, arranged against the wall, from the light +blue of the _Victory_ and the dark blue of the _Monarch_ to the cerise +of the _Prince of Wales_ and the blue of the _Britannia_. I can only +remember entering Alexander’s room once. It was also adorned with the +colours of the Eleven and silver cups won at cricket and racquets, as he +was Captain of the Eleven and President of “Pop.” “Pop” is the name given +to the Eton Society, to which only boys in the Sixth Form and the Upper +Fifth can belong. + +The occasion on which I entered Alexander’s room was on a Sunday. He +opened his door, and called: “Lower boy!” and, as I happened to be on +the landing, he said that he must send me to make a copy of his Sunday +Questions, which were always written up outside St. George’s Chapel at +Windsor. It was a dreary walk, for, as it was Sunday afternoon, all the +shops were, of course, closed. I made a copy of the Questions in pencil, +and, on my return, left them in Alexander’s room. At eleven o’clock that +night, he came and woke me up, to ask if I could read some word I had +copied, which I had to confess I could not. He went away, but returned to +my room an hour later, and, waking me up again, said he thought he could +make a guess at the word we had been unable to make out, and asked me if +it were not correct. I then suddenly remembered that it was the right +word, when he laughed and went out. This was the only time I was ever +sent to copy out Sunday Questions, as Alexander always, as a rule, sent +his own fags to do this, and Locke, whose fag I was, hardly ever gave +me anything to do. I was, in consequence, very sorry when he left Eton, +which he did very shortly afterwards for Trinity College, Cambridge. +Alexander went up to King’s. + +One half I was up to a master called Austin Leigh, who was in the habit +of speaking so softly that we could scarcely hear a word he said in +school. So when he spoke, I always had to guess what he said. One day +he asked me to construe a passage, which I did, when he corrected me, +saying:— + +“I told you what to say.” + +“Please, sir, I could not hear exactly.” + +“Are you deaf?” + +“No, sir, but I did not hear exactly.” + +“Then, for not listening, you will please write out the lesson as a +punishment. Do you hear now?” + +“Yes, sir.” + +I hated being up to Austin Leigh, for I never could hear, as he always +spoke in a whisper somewhat like the hissing of a serpent. + +There was another master, who thought himself rather good-looking, as +he had regular features; but he had yellowish hair, was inclined to +baldness, and his figure was lanky and awkward. This master was fond of +making very tame jokes in school. If we laughed at them, it was all +right, but the boys who ignored his jokes he punished. He insisted on +calling Lord Edward Somerset by the name of Samson, but once when he +called upon “Samson” to stand up, no one rose. He then turned to Lord +Edward Somerset, and said:— + +“Why did you not stand up when I told you to do so?” + +“Because you never told me, sir.” + +“I did; your name is Samson, isn’t it?” + +“No, sir; it’s Somerset.” + +“Well, anyhow, you knew that I meant you.” + +Somerset made no reply, and the master said:— + +“For disobedience you will write me out this chapter of ‘Xenophon!’” + +“Very well, sir.” + +Among the numerous masters at Eton with whom I had little or nothing to +do, those whom I remember best are: Mr. Stephen Hawtrey, who was a very +agreeable man; Mr. Hale, a mathematical master, nicknamed, on account of +his whitish hair, “the Badger,” who was also very pleasant; the Rev. W. +Dalton, another mathematical master, who had very full lips and a reddish +face, and went by the _sobriquet_ of “Piggy”; the Rev. Joynes, who had +somewhat the appearance of a weasel, and had great difficulty in keeping +his division in order; Mr. Cornish, a fair-haired man, who was rather +disagreeable at times; and Mr. Cockshot, also a mathematical master, who +was bright and pleasant. The Rev. Durnford, nicknamed “Judy,” I only knew +by sight, and the same was the case with Mr. Arthur James, my tutor’s +brother, who was an exceptionally pleasant man. + +All the masters had some peculiarity, and it took some time to get used +to their ways, as they were all so different from one another. Just, +however, as a boy was beginning to understand a master the half came to +an end, and, after the holidays, he would probably be sent up to quite a +different kind of man. For each master took a separate division, and was +promoted like the boys from one division to another. + +The most popular master was the Rev. Edmund Warre, afterwards Head +Master and Provost of Eton. He was a good-looking, fair man, who wore +spectacles, and, besides being one of the cleverest of the masters, was +a very fine oar, and always superintended the coaching of the Eight. He +used to try to interest the boys up to him in school in a subject, as +Herr Kirchhofer did at Frankfurt. I remember once, during a lesson in +geography, he said that Austria-Hungary was a nation which would one day +break up, since it consisted of too many nationalities, the link between +which was not sufficiently strong to be permanent. Upon another occasion, +he recommended us to read “The Last of the Barons,” by Lord Lytton, +which he said was one of the best historical novels ever written, and I +remember that some of us followed his advice. + +There was a good deal of jealousy amongst certain masters, who did +not pull together. Mr. Oscar Browning was unpopular with some of his +colleagues, though he was very much liked by the boys at his house and +those up to him in school. There can be little doubt that the dislike +entertained by certain masters for Mr. Browning was due to jealousy, as +he was cleverer than the majority of them, and he was certainly very +witty, and at times rather sarcastic. I was up to him in school one half, +and I think, on the whole, he was the pleasantest master I was ever up +to, since he used to enliven the tedium of school hours by his witty +remarks, occasionally making fun of some of us, but in such a nice, +pleasant way, that we all enjoyed the joke, even those who were the cause +of the merriment. It was almost impossible to be late for school with +Mr. Browning, as he generally arrived late on the scene himself. Now and +again, however, he reversed the usual order of things, and then those who +had counted on his late arrival were caught and punished. + +Mr. R. A. H. Mitchell, the famous cricketer, was a master of the Lower +School. My friend Jim Doyne was up to him, and said that he was very +popular with the boys. + +There was another master, Mr. St. John Thackeray, who had no authority +whatever over the boys up to him in school, who invariably made fun +of him, and jeered at him all the time. I was up to him one half, when +I found it quite impossible to learn anything, owing to the constant +disturbance, which was quite overpowering. I used to come in late +continually when up to Mr. Thackeray, as I knew it did not much matter. +One day, however, he said to me:— + +“You are half an hour late this morning!” + +“Please, sir, I overslept myself.” + +“But you always oversleep yourself.” + +“Please, sir, I couldn’t help it; I was so tired.” + +“What made you so tired...?” + +Here the other boys began to laugh, and someone said aloud:— + +“He’s always so slack.” + +“Which boy spoke?” asked Mr. Thackeray angrily. A dead silence ensued. + +“I _will_ know which boy spoke just now. If the boy doesn’t come forward +at once, I shall punish all the division.” Upon this two or three boys +said:— + +“It was I, sir.” + +“Which of you was it?” asked Mr. Thackeray. + +“I, sir,” sounded from different parts of the room. + +“It’s really too bad; the whole division shall be punished then,” said +the master. + +While he was occupied in making a note of this, a book was hurled across +the room, at which there was great laughter. Mr. Thackeray was furious. + +“I shall have to report the whole division for bad conduct if I don’t +know at once who threw that book,” he cried. + +“It was I,” said one boy. + +Then, a moment afterwards, another voice said:— + +“It was I, sir.” + +“But it could not have been both of you. Which of you was it?” + +“Me, sir,” said the first boy who had spoken. + +“Then you will please write out the chapter we are reading”—then, +correcting himself—“or, rather, which we ought to be reading.” + +For a few minutes the lesson proceeded quietly, though on the least +pretext there would be shouts of laughter. Mr. Thackeray entirely forgot +to punish the other boy and myself; only the one who had hurled the +book was punished. Every day with Mr. Thackeray was similar to this +one, sometimes more amusing, sometimes less so, but always very noisy +indeed. He spoilt the boys for other masters, as, being accustomed to do +as they liked with him, they would come late into school when they were +up to others, who would send them up to be swished on a repetition of +the offence. I was never swished at Eton during all the four years I was +there. + +The late Earl Grosvenor, who, when Viscount Belgrave, was at Eton with +me, was a very good-looking boy, with fair hair, but he wore jackets that +were sometimes too short for him, and it was the same with his trousers, +as he had grown out of them. One day, when he sat in school on a form in +front of me, during a lesson by Mr. Henry Tarver, the French master, a +boy sitting next me, seeing Belgrave’s shirt, which was plainly visible +between his jacket and trousers, pulled it right out altogether. Belgrave +turned round angrily, thinking at first that it was I who had taken this +liberty with his shirt, when he saw that the culprit was a boy whom he +knew well. Nevertheless, he was very confused and had great trouble in +adjusting his protruding garment, as it was necessary to do it in such a +way as not to attract the attention of Mr. Tarver, who would certainly +have inquired into the matter and meted out condign punishment to the +offender. + +There is a French saying that small events often interest great minds. I +hope that this may be so, in which event there will be some excuse for +my mentioning this incident, which struck me at the time as being rather +ludicrous, though I cannot say whether others may be of the same opinion. +Lord Grosvenor, after he left Eton, was fond of driving an engine, and +I am told that he often drove the train between London and Holyhead for +pleasure. + +His name reminds me of a good story that I once heard at Eton about his +grandfather, the Duke of Westminster. The latter, one day, was told by +his groom of the chamber that the dress-coat that he wore was getting +very shabby. The Duke asked to see it, and then told the man that he +might order a new one for himself. “But,” added the thrifty nobleman, +“you may let me have this old coat; it will do quite well for me to +wear.” The Duke of Atholl, who was a first cousin of my grandfather, had +also rather a contempt for dress, and my mother was told by the latter +that, when an old man, he was often mistaken in the street for a beggar, +and had pence offered him. + +There was a boy named Lacaita at Eton, who, when he first came, wore a +most extraordinary hat. The lower part was much broader than the upper, +so that the hat was not unlike a loaf of sugar. I think he must have +imported it from Italy. However, if I remember rightly, it was very +speedily battered out of any shape at all, for it was an innovation which +pleased none of the boys, who were only too ready to make a football of +it, as they generally did of anything they happened to take a dislike to, +and particularly a silk hat. + +Doyne used frequently to invite boys from other houses to tea with us +in his room. They were mostly those whom he knew “at home,” that is to +say, away from Eton, and who were friends of his people. The Hon. John +FitzWilliam, who was in the same division as myself, often came, as he +was a relative of his, as well as Lord Trafalgar, who was in the Lower +School, and Lord Mandeville, who afterwards became Duke of Manchester. +The last-named was a very good-looking boy, with very dark, curly hair; +he was full of fun, and I liked him very much, though I only met him +when he came to tea with us, as he was lower down in the school and at a +different tutor’s house from myself. + +A boy named Charles Rice Hodgson, in the same division as I was, was my +greatest friend at first. He was at Vidal’s, a Dame’s house. He was a +very handsome boy, with rather fair hair and blue eyes, nearly perfect +features, and a beautiful complexion. He used to dress very well and +always wore a button-hole—a rose or a carnation in summer—and usually +scented himself. He was very clever and had a good deal of swagger, and +was a favourite with the bigger boys at Vidal’s, who often used to walk +with him, which was strongly disapproved of by some of the masters. I +often helped him out of a difficulty; and sometimes, when he had not +learned his lesson over night, I would prompt him in a low voice to +construe it, as I always sat next to him in school. He left Eton very +suddenly, at which I was quite distressed, as he had always been so much +with me, and I liked him more than any other boy, and had been in his +company the day before he left. A more charming boy than Hodgson I have +never known; but he was conceited about his looks, for he was one of the +best-looking boys, if not the best-looking, at Eton in those days. + +Another boy at the same Dame’s house as Hodgson was Charles D. Robertson +Williamson, who was considered to be the best-looking boy then at Eton. +He was higher up in the school than I was, and, though his tutor, Mr. +Johnson (Cory, the author of “Ionica”), liked him very much, some of the +other masters did not approve of his putting on so much side and being +so often with bigger boys. At Lord’s, during the Eton and Harrow match, +I happened quite accidentally to make the acquaintance of Williamson’s +aunt. She was only eighteen, and bore a most extraordinary resemblance +to her nephew, with the same beautiful face, the same short upper lip, +the same large, round, hazel eyes, the same beautifully shaped mouth, the +same delicate nose, slightly, in fact almost imperceptibly, tilted, and +the same brown hair; and she was of the same height as he was. She spoke +to me without knowing me at all, saying:— + +“I want to keep my nephew with me a day or two longer. Do you think I can +do so?” + +“You must ask his tutor; no doubt he will allow you to do so,” I +answered, thinking that he could not possibly refuse her. + +“Well, I will try.” + +With which, Williamson’s aunt went off in search of Mr. Johnson, and +presently returned, looking very pleased, and said:— + +“Mr. Johnson has given the permission I wanted. I am so happy!” And she +clapped her hands together with delight. + +I did not know Williamson to speak to before then, not being so high in +the school as he was, and I met him for the first time when he came later +in the day to meet his aunt in the Grand Stand at Lord’s. + +Once, when Doyne and I were driving in a hansom from Lord’s after the +Eton and Harrow match, he caught sight of the Hon. E. W. B. Portman, and +said to me:— + +“Do you mind giving Billy Portman a lift?” + +We made room for him between us, which was an easy enough matter in those +days, though in years to come it would have been quite impossible, for +he grew so stout that he weighed seventeen stone, and I rather fancy Jim +Doyne was even heavier. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + + An Amusing Incident—Lady Caroline Murray—An Anecdote of Queen + Victoria—Lord Rossmore’s Wager—The Match at the Wall—Practical + Jokes—Some Boys at James’s + + +Boys at Eton rarely made friends outside their respective houses. +Therefore, when Hodgson left, I spent most of my spare time with Doyne, +who even then was very stout, and, though older than I, below me in the +school. When he left Eton, my chief companion was a boy named Harry +Gridley, with whom I messed for a short time, and with whom I often went +for walks on a Sunday along the playing-fields by the river. + +Gridley, who was in the Fifth Form, was a dark-haired boy, very kind and +good-natured. He was in the Boats, and a capital oar, and rowed later +in the _Monarch_, the ten-oared Upper boat. Sometimes I would go to +Windsor with him to play billiards, notwithstanding that this was against +the rules. One day, whilst we were playing, I, by way of a joke, began +ordering him about and calling him “Peter,” and then, to tease him, told +him that some man who was in the room thought he was my fag. He flew into +a rage, and, when the man had left the room, rushed at me and caught me +by the throat, as though he would strangle me. However, we soon made +friends again, but, strange to say, this nickname of “Peter,” which I +had given him for the first time in the billiard-room at Windsor, always +stuck to him, even in the 5th Lancers, which he joined later. He was +very fond of reading, and one day took up “Adam Bede,” by George Eliot; +but he told me that he could not finish it, as the hero was a very ugly, +red-haired man, and he disliked reading about ugly people. He quite set +me against the book, for I never read it after he said this. + +[Illustration: Charles Balfour, at Eton with the Author. + +[_To face p. 80._] + +[Illustration: Miss Minnie Balfour, sister of Hilda, Lady de Clifford. + +[_To face p. 81._] + +Alexander, the Captain of the Oppidans, was a very good-looking boy +of eighteen; dark, with black, curly hair. His memory was quite +extraordinary, and he could repeat the whole of the _Odyssey_, in the +original Greek. Once he had read a book and mastered its contents, he +never forgot it. Even Mr. James was astounded at Alexander’s marvellous +gift for remembering things. Locke was also clever, but in a different +way from Alexander. + +Some time after I went to Eton, my tutor got his cousin, Mrs. Bower, to +look after the boys instead of the housekeeper, which was a pleasant +change for us. She was about thirty-five and a very nice woman, and, +having taken rather a fancy to me, used often to invite me to her room at +five o’clock and give me tea and cake. + +One day some friends of Doyne—a baronet and his three daughters—came +from London to see him. As it was a Sunday, I did not get up until late, +when I ran into Doyne’s room, clad only in my night-shirt, and with my +water-jug in my hand, to get some water to wash with. To my horror, I +suddenly found myself confronted by three ladies, who, on catching sight +of me, uttered a scream, and then, as I turned round and incontinently +fled, burst into fits of laughter. Doyne told me afterwards that his +friends were highly amused at this incident, and declared that they +should never forget their visit to Eton. + +A boy named Charles Balfour was my fag when I was in the Fifth Form. +Doyne, who was still in the Lower School, found my having a fag very +convenient, as the latter had to cook the steaks and chops for our +breakfast. Balfour was a good-looking boy, and I liked him very much; +but he could not bear doing anything for Doyne, as the latter was lower +down in the school than he was. I met the late Charles Balfour, with his +father and family, at Wiesbaden in after years. His sister Hilda, a very +pretty girl, subsequently married Lord de Clifford. + +With Balfour I met another old schoolfellow, Baldock, who was with his +sister at Wiesbaden. He was twelfth man for the Eton Eleven one year, +when I was there and Keeper of “Sixpenny,” and was a general favourite +with the lower boys. Later on, in town, I recollect going to a ball at +his house in Grosvenor Place. He was made a C.B. by King Edward VII., +having served thirty-six years in the Yeomanry and reached the rank of +colonel. + +The present Lord Harris, G.C.S.I., the well-known cricketer, was in the +Eton Eleven in my time and afterwards Captain of it. I can recollect +him perfectly—a tall, fair-haired and remarkably handsome boy, with +merry blue eyes, who always looked the picture of health. Amongst those +who made their mark at cricket and football, and, at the same time, +distinguished themselves in school, were the late Earl of Pembroke and +Montgomery, then the Hon. Sidney Herbert, who was a good-looking boy, +with blue eyes and black hair, and the late Earl of Onslow. The latter +was at one time in the same division as myself. + +Sir Hubert Parry, so famous as a composer, was at Eton with me, but much +higher up in the school than I was. He was at Vidal’s, and a boy in his +house told me that he played the violin beautifully. I can remember that +he was a good football player, and that I thought him a very fine-looking +fellow, but I only knew him by sight. + +Craven, when in the Fifth Form, kept his fags dancing attendance on him +all their spare time, and used to send them on long errands to Windsor. +“Mug” was his fag for one half, and had a very lively time of it at +first; but afterwards Craven treated him very much better. I was John +Lister-Kaye’s fag at one time, and found him more exacting than Locke, +with whom I had had a very easy time; but he became a friend of mine +when I was higher up in the school. “Mug” was his fag at the same time, +and liked fagging for him very much, as he treated him very kindly. His +younger brother, Cecil Lister-Kaye, was a friend of mine from the very +first. Both brothers were very good-looking boys, with fair hair. The +elder, afterwards Sir John Lister-Kaye, who rowed in the _Victory_ at +Eton, subsequently entered the “Blues.” On one occasion, the Lister-Kayes +and myself were invited to dine at Upton Park, with Mrs. Adair, a very +lovely woman, who, I recollect, was dressed in black velvet, which set +off her superb figure and dazzling skin to great advantage. She was a +grand-daughter of the Duchess of Roxburghe and a great friend of my +cousin, the Hon. Emily Cathcart, maid-of-honour to Queen Victoria. + +[Illustration: W. H. Onslow, aged 13, afterwards Lord Onslow. + +[_To face p. 82._] + +[Illustration: The Hon. Emily Cathcart, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria. + +[_To face p. 83._] + +One day, the Hon. Charles Finch, afterwards Earl of Aylesford, who was in +the same division as myself, told me that he had stopped my cousin while +she was walking with a lady in Eton, and that a few days later, when he +happened to meet her again, she said to him:— + +“I have a bone to pick with you. Do you know whom you kept waiting when +you spoke to me the other day? It was the Princess Louise (afterwards +Duchess of Argyll)!” The Earl of Aylesford, like myself, was a cousin of +Emily Cathcart. + +While at Eton, I used occasionally to spend the day with my great-aunt, +Lady Georgiana Cathcart. She lived near Ascot, and once when I was +driving with her and her daughter we called on the Ladies Murray, who had +a fine house in the neighbourhood, and Lady Caroline told us that if we +had come some minutes earlier, we should have met Queen Victoria, who had +lunched with them in quite an informal way, saying:— + +“Give me what you have ready, nothing else.” + +Lady Caroline told me that, owing to bearing the same name, she had +frequently been mistaken for my mother’s aunt at Richmond, who had +recently died. She showed me an oak-tree which her brother, the Earl of +Mansfield, had planted in his garden the last time he had come to see +her. In her younger days, she had been lady-in-waiting to the Duchess of +Kent, at which time she was considered a great beauty. + +One day, when I was dining at Ascot, I met my cousin Emily, who was +wearing a lovely dress of violet velvet, trimmed with white lace, and +said:— + +“Her Majesty said I was not to wear this dress at Court, and I have only +worn it once before, although it cost me a good deal of money.” + +Queen Victoria, it seems, would often take a dislike to some dress worn +by one of her maids-of-honour. + +I frequently went to Windsor Castle to see my cousin. On one occasion, +I mistook the room, and had to wait for some time in a drawing-room. +Presently, a lady came in, who was very charming in her manner towards +me, and had some tea and muffins brought to me by a man-servant in the +scarlet livery of the Palace. This lady I afterwards learned was the +Countess of Erroll. Once, when I called at the Castle I was received by +the Hon. Harriet Phipps, who told me that my cousin had left Windsor and +that she had taken her place in waiting. She invited me to have some tea, +which was brought in in a solid silver teapot, and served in very fine +porcelain cups, on both of which was the Royal crown, and was very kind +and amiable. + +One day, my cousin Emily asked me to bring the late Lord Alexander +Kennedy, son of the Marquis of Ailsa, who was in my division at Eton, to +the Castle to tea, which I did. He and I smoked cigarettes in her room, +and, when we heard her coming, threw them out of the window. However, she +smelt the smoke and said:— + +“I hope you have not thrown the cigarettes out of the window, for ‘H.M.’ +is coming this way, and I shall get into trouble if she sees them.” + +We tried to calm her, but she appeared to be rather annoyed at the time. + +Emily Cathcart was very good-looking, with dark eyes and black hair and +a fine figure. In her general appearance, she always reminded me very +much of the late Empress of Austria. Her manner was charming, and she was +always very amiable, and had so pleasant a smile that it seemed as though +it would be impossible for her to be angry with anyone. I remember her +telling me once that at Windsor she rarely ever spoke English, having +to receive so many foreign guests for Her Majesty. On the occasion that +Kennedy and I went there, we saw the Duc d’Aumale walking away from the +Castle as we arrived. + +Queen Victoria liked to be read to by her maids-of-honour, which was +sometimes a very trying experience for them, particularly by night. A boy +at Eton was one of her pages-of-honour, and, as he was late in coming out +of school one day that his services were required, he did not stop to +wash his hands, but hurried off to the Castle, in order to be in time for +some ceremony. Afterwards, the train which he had to hold was found to +have dirty spots on it, so he was immediately dismissed from his office +by Her Majesty. This story was told me by Mr. James. + +My mother told me that Queen Victoria was once lunching at the house of +the Duke of Sussex, and, on being asked if the mutton cutlets were to her +liking, replied carelessly:— + +“Oh! the chops are not bad.” She also related that once, in her younger +days, the Queen was visiting the country-seat of a certain nobleman, +where everything imaginable in and out of season had been procured for +Her Majesty’s delectation, no matter at what cost. However, on the +Queen being asked what she would be pleased to take, to the horror and +amazement of her host, she named the only thing which was not in the +house, and which there was no possibility of procuring. It was whispered +that the Queen had asked for this particular _plat_, which was one of a +simple but unusual kind, purposely, as she appeared to be amused at the +consternation her request had aroused. + +Just after I left Eton, Emily invited me to the Haymarket Theatre, +telling me to inquire for the Queen’s box. I arrived, and was duly +ushered into the Royal box, which, however, was untenanted. So I sat +there in solitary state, to the no small curiosity of the audience, +who perhaps imagined that I must be some quite important person, +until presently my cousin arrived, accompanied by a very handsome and +exquisitely dressed woman, who, I learned, was Lady Churchill. The +latter, who was lady-in-waiting to the Queen, was most fascinating, and +had all the distinction of a _très grande dame_. She was most kind and +gracious to me, even going out of her way to draw me out, so that I was +soon quite at my ease in her company. + +In winter, if we happened to have a frost hard enough to make Virginia +Water safe for skaters, we used to be taken there by Mr. James to skate +and play hockey on the ice, a game in which my tutor always took part +himself. Windsor Steeplechases were an event always looked forward to by +the boys, for, though we were forbidden to go to them, we went all the +same. Sometimes we would be attacked by roughs, who tried to prevent us +crossing certain ditches to get to the race-course, and on one occasion +a man tried to stop me. But I pushed him aside, managed to jump a ditch, +and got safely to the course. Windsor Fair was at one time forbidden to +the boys, but this did not prevent them all going there. I went once with +Craven and saw a circus without paying anything, the man at the entrance +having overlooked us as we rushed in. Afterwards, Mr. James happened +to mention the Fair, when we all laughed and began to talk about the +different shows we had seen. The master took it in good part, merely +remarking:— + +“It’s lucky for you I did not catch you there.” + +The Christopher Inn at Eton was also out of bounds, but at times some of +the big boys would invite the smaller ones there. If, however, one of the +masters happened to catch sight of them coming out, there would be the +devil to pay. I don’t remember ever going to the “Christopher,” though I +did most things that were forbidden. + +The elder son of General Sir John Douglas, Captain Niel Douglas, who +was an Old Etonian and an officer in the Scots Guards, then stationed +at Windsor, invited me to lunch at the barracks, where I was introduced +to Lord Mark Innes-Ker, who used to ride his own horses in the Windsor +Steeplechases. I enjoyed my lunch very much, as it was quite a novelty +for me. Eton boys were often invited to the barracks to lunch with +officers of the Household Brigade whom they knew, as so many Old Etonians +went into the Guards. I remember Blane, who was a pupil of my tutor, once +coming down to Eton just after he had left the school, and telling me +that he was about to join the Scots Guards, who were then stationed at +Windsor. Lord Rossmore, whom I knew very well at Eton, entered the 1st +Life Guards, and was killed riding in a steeplechase over the Windsor +course in 1874. By a singular coincidence he had fallen at the same jump, +while riding the same horse, the previous year. Rossmore, who was in +the same division with me, was very popular at Eton. He was perpetually +playing practical jokes, and I can recollect that on one occasion he made +a bet that he would drive a trap through Eton. He won it, too, by driving +through the town on a cart, disguised as a waterman, so that the masters +did not recognize him. If one of them had happened to penetrate his +disguise, he would perhaps have been expelled. + +Gridley and I once went for a bicycle ride in the country, and, happening +to be seen, were sent up to the Head Master, Dr. Hornby, who said:— + +“It is too grave an offence for me to swish you, so each of you must +write out a book of the _Iliad_, with accents, stops and breathings.” + +Fortunately for us, Mrs. Bower made Mr. James persuade the Head Master to +let us off when we had done a quarter of the work. + +When I first went to Eton, the Head Master was Dr. Balston, a very +handsome, stately and severe-looking man, whom the masters and boys +liked—at a distance. When Dr. Hornby succeeded him, it was feared that +he would introduce a great many reforms, which the masters dreaded as +much as the boys; but these apprehensions proved to be groundless. While +I was at Eton, Dr. Hornby was very much liked by the boys; but I cannot +say that his popularity extended to his colleagues, some of whom, I know, +regarded him with far from friendly feelings. + +There was a “sock”-shop, called Brown’s, near James’s house in those +days, where excellent buttered buns were sold. An Old Etonian, Theobald, +Viscount Dillon, told me that, on his return to Eton when past sixty, he +tried the buns again, and exclaimed:— + +“Goodness! how these buns have altered; they aren’t half as good as they +used to be!” Then, looking round at the boys, who seemed to be enjoying +them just as much as he and his contemporaries had done in days of yore, +he added regretfully:— + +“After all, it isn’t the buns that have altered. It is simply that I have +lost my taste for them.” + +I used often to go to Brown’s, generally of a morning, to eat a buttered +bun, which I enjoyed immensely. There was another “sock”-shop, called +Webber’s, where in summer we used to indulge in strawberry messes. +Marmalade was in favour with most of us for breakfast, and I recollect +how Craven used always to send for eighteenpenny pots at a time, saying +that the others were too small for his appetite. + +One Fourth of June my father came down to Eton, and asked at my tutor’s +for Charles Douglas, the younger son of General Sir John Douglas, and +William Kinglake, who was in a different house and whom I did not then +know. We all walked down to the river to see the boats. It was a very +pretty sight, and prettier still in the evening, when the fireworks +began. I saw several lovely young girls, beautifully dressed, drinking +champagne with their brothers, and envied the latter having such pretty +sisters. William Kinglake was a nephew of the author of “Eöthen,” who was +a first cousin of my father. He was in the Boats the following year, but +died soon after he left Eton. Charles Douglas, after leaving Eton, joined +his father’s old regiment, the 79th Highlanders, but soon retired from +the Service, while still a lieutenant. + +I passed my “exam.” in swimming before Mr. Warre at my first try, and +often went on the river. But I was a “dry bob,” and generally preferred +playing cricket in “Sixpenny,” some of the fields by the river, which in +winter were used for football matches. Doyne never went on the river, +since, as he was not allowed to bathe, he could not pass the necessary +“exam.,” and so was forcibly a “dry bob.” At James’s, only Alexander +and one or two others were “dry bobs,” and, as the house was a small +one, we had no cricket eleven, like other houses. James’s football +colours were a combination of reds of different shades with violet and +black, which were not by any means pretty colours. Yonge’s were red and +black; Day’s, black and white; Evans’s, scarlet with a black skull and +cross-bones; Warre’s, a combination of red, yellow and other colours; +and Vidal’s, yellow and black. The well-known cricketer, C. I. Thornton, +was at Vidal’s, and was a great friend of Williamson, while the latter +was there. Thornton was a tremendously hard hitter at cricket, and I can +remember many of his wonderful hits beyond the ropes when he was playing +for Eton against Harrow at Lord’s. The colours of the Second Eleven or +Twenty-two at cricket were blue and black; the Eton Eleven, of course, +wore light blue, as did the Eton Eight. + +On St. Andrew’s Day a football match—the game at the Wall—was played +between Oppidans and Collegers, in which the latter were generally +successful, so far as I can recollect. This match always drew a large +crowd, but, for a spectator, I cannot imagine anything more tedious to +watch, unless he be interested in the final result, and even then he must +be gifted with an uncommon stock of patience to be able to watch it from +start to finish. For those engaged in it it is, of course, different, as +some players prefer the wall to the field game, and I have heard that it +affords them more excitement, besides being a far greater strain on the +nerves and muscles. A lady who would enjoy watching the game at the Wall +would in all probability find pleasure in a Spanish bull-fight, though +both would be distasteful to a really nervous, sensitive girl. A young +Spanish lady once told me at Seville that to look at a girl performing +on the trapeze made her feel faint, whereas she never failed to attend +a bull-fight on a Sunday, in which she took a keener pleasure than in +any other form of amusement. This shows how strangely one’s nerves are +constituted, and that this kind of thing is, after all, merely a matter +of habit. + +In the summer, Mr. James would often take us with Mrs. Bower on the +river, when we would bring our dinner with us, and would often go as far +as Monkey Island, or even to Maidenhead, returning at night by moonlight. +We all rowed in turn and had dinner in the beautiful woods of Cliveden, +which was at that time the property of the Duke of Sutherland, but now +belongs to Lord Astor, whose father subsequently bought the estate. The +late Duke of Sutherland, who was then the Marquis of Stafford, was with +me at Eton, but higher up in the school, and I can remember him very +well. He was a good-looking boy with fair hair. + +Lord Astor (formerly Mr. Waldorf Astor), the present owner of Cliveden, +was at Eton also, though very many years after my time, where he was +Captain of the Boats, and gained the Prince Consort’s Prize for French +one year. His father belonged to one of the best families in the United +States, and the son became a naturalized Englishman. + +These river excursions were most enjoyable, and, when coming home, we +sang songs in chorus, which sounded well in the stillness of the summer +night. I was nearly always taken by Mr. James, as I was one of Mrs. +Bower’s favourites, and she insisted on my being invited. A boy named H. +B. Walker, who was then high up in the school, was also generally one of +the party. Walker was very amusing, and used to chaff me to annoy Mrs. +Bower, but all in jest, as we were very good friends. Mr. James was very +pleasant during these outings, and would sometimes indulge his propensity +for making jokes, which at times the boys would appreciate, though at +others they found the wit a trifle strained. One day, Walker said:— + +“That joke you made I think I could improve upon, sir.” + +“I did not mean it for one; you always see a joke where I cannot see +anything,” replied Mr. James. + +“Charles, you know you meant it for a joke,” exclaimed Mrs. Bower. + +“Well, if I did, I apologize,” said her cousin, laughing; “but you boys +always appreciate my jokes better in school hours.” + +“Because there is generally more point in them, sir,” remarked Walker. + +“But the best of it is I never can see any joke in some of the things +I say which provoke fits of laughter, and that always annoys me +considerably.” + +“It’s quite a habit of yours, Charles, to make these jokes,” said Mrs. +Bower; “I confess I don’t care for them at any time.” + +“Ladies never do,” retorted Mr. James. + +And he laughed and looked very pleased at his remark, to which Mrs. Bower +vouchsafed no reply. + +[Illustration: Henry Hooker Walker, at Eton with the Author. + +[_To face p. 90._] + +[Illustration: The Hon. J. W. Lowther, present Speaker of the House of +Commons. + +[_To face p. 91._] + +Another boy who often went on these river excursions was a nephew of +Mrs. Bower, named Holdsworth. He was a fine-looking fellow, older than +I was and much higher up in the school. He was a very good oar, rowing +in the _Victory_ and also in the Eight; but he over-exerted himself in +the latter and died shortly after leaving Eton. His father was a wealthy +man, and his mother was called at one time the “Pocket Venus.” He had a +sister, a pretty, fair-haired girl, who in after years married the late +Sir James Dimsdale, Lord Mayor of London, who was also an Etonian. + +Walker also died shortly after leaving school, when he was barely +eighteen. He died of a brain disease at his mother’s house in Palmeira +Square, Brighton. I happened to be at Brighton a few weeks before, and he +came to see me. + +One First of April, at Eton, I delivered a message to Walker, which +was supposed to have come from Lord Rossmore, asking him to lunch at +the “Christopher” at one o’clock. Rossmore, who had been very friendly +with Walker at school, had lately joined the 1st Life Guards, who were +stationed at Windsor Barracks, and often invited Walker there. And so +the latter, suspecting nothing, went to the “Christopher,” and waited +there for some time for Rossmore, with the result that he was not only +disappointed of his expected lunch, but missed his dinner at James’s. He +was very angry with me at the time, but he often laughed afterwards at +this practical joke. + +I also wrote a note to a boy named Lewin C. Cholmeley, purporting to +come from a person living in a street at the farther end of Windsor, +where I had never been, to say that if he called there he would hear of +something to his advantage. He, too, fell into the trap, went to the +street mentioned, and hunted a long time for the house, but was unable to +find it, as there was no such number there. When he got back to James’s +he found that dinner was over, and I don’t think he ever quite forgave +me for the joke I had played upon him; certainly he never forgot it. +Cholmeley was lower in school than I was at that time. When in the Fifth +Form, he was in the Boats. I heard that, after I left Eton, he fell out +with my tutor one Fourth of June, and was one of those who nearly drowned +him in Chalvey. This affair might have entailed serious consequences for +Cholmeley, had not Mr. James forgiven him and interceded in his favour +with the Head Master. Cholmeley is now a wealthy solicitor in London. + +When I had nothing better to do of an evening, I often used to go to +Leyton’s, at Windsor, which was famous for its pastry, and where a good +many Eton boys were always to be found. My companion on these occasions +was usually Lord Edward Somerset, who was in my division. On leaving +Eton, Lord Edward Somerset entered the 23rd Welsh Fusiliers, from which +he subsequently exchanged into the “Blues.” He died soon after his +marriage, while still quite young. + +The German master at Eton was Herr Griebel, from whom I took private +lessons at the same time as Count Bentinck. We read together Goethe’s +_Die Leiden des jungen Werthers_ and Auerbach’s _Das Landhaus am Rhein_. +Herr Griebel told me that after he had been in England some time he +forgot German entirely. Then he went back to Germany, and entirely forgot +English. “But now,” he added, “I shall never forget either language, as +I am far too old.” I was in the select one year for the Prince Consort’s +German Prize, and the year following next in marks to the boy who won it. +For the French Prize I was also rather high up in marks. Mr. Frank Tarver +and his brother were the French masters at Eton then. One half the former +got up a performance of Molière’s _le Bourgeois Gentilhomme_, which was +acted by the boys and himself. Molière is said to have portrayed himself +in _le Misanthrope_. It is well known that he used to read his comedies, +first of all, to his old housekeeper, and when she smiled at certain +passages, he felt sure that they would amuse the public also. + +Gridley’s younger brother, Reginald Gridley, after I had left Eton, rowed +in the _Victory_ and the Eight, and was a well-known oar at Cambridge, +where he rowed for the University Eight against Oxford. Gridley himself, +after holding a commission in the 5th Lancers and subsequently in the +78th Highlanders, was called to the Bar, but died soon afterwards. +George Baird, who rowed in the Eight in 1873, was also at James’s, and +was my fag for a short time. When he was in the Fifth Form, Arthur +Cavendish-Bentinck, now Duke of Portland, fagged for him. George Baird, +after leaving Eton, joined the 16th Lancers, and is now a colonel. I +saw a good deal of him at my tutor’s, but all I remember about him is +that he was a very nice fellow and that he messed with Blagrove. He had +a cousin, Douglas Baird, who was also at James’s. Craven, on leaving +Eton, entered the Grenadier Guards, from which he retired as captain. He +married soon afterwards, and died at twenty-two. Holdsworth messed with +Thomas Wood, who was also in the Boats (the _Thetis_), and distinguished +himself in school. I met him in after years at Aldershot, where he was in +the Grenadier Guards, and I remember that he behaved very generously to +Temple—“Mug,” as we used to call him at Eton—when he was in bad health +and poor circumstances, assisting him and seeing that he had the best +medical advice in his illness, of which, however, he died when he was +barely twenty years old. + +Two other boys who were with me at James’s were Percy Aylmer and Augustus +Ralli. Aylmer, who was a very good-looking and exceedingly nice fellow, +travelled with Colvin in after years, and now resides on his property +in Durham. Ralli was a bright-looking boy, with very dark eyes, and was +very popular in the house. Unhappily, he died of rheumatic fever at Eton +in March 1872. There were, of course, many other boys at James’s besides +those whom I have mentioned, but I cannot now recall anything about them +worth recording here. Doyne left Eton long before I did, and died of +influenza some years ago in Ireland. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + + Athletic Sports at Eton—A “Scrap”—Lord Newlands—An Old Boy on + Eton of To-day + + +Henley Regatta was an event which was always eagerly looked forward to +by us boys. I used to go there with Mr. James and Mrs. Bower and some +of the boys in our house. Sometimes we went by river all the way; at +others by rail. One year, while sitting in the Grand Stand, I overheard a +conversation between a boy named Kirklinton-Saul and his mother. Said the +latter:— + +“I don’t always expect to hear from you, my dear, but when you want +money, be sure and write, won’t you?” + +To which request the young gentleman gave the answer which might be +expected. + +I could not help thinking at the time: “What a nice mamma! I wonder +if there are many such mammas about?” The dinner at Henley used to +consist of duck and green peas with beer, which the boys used to enjoy +greatly; but there was such a crowd at the regatta, that there was always +a tremendous scramble to get to the tables. Mr. James did not take +dinner with him when we went to Henley, as it was so far from Eton. The +toilettes of the ladies were very elaborate, though hardly equal to those +one saw at the Eton and Harrow match at Lord’s. Nevertheless, there were +some very pretty dresses, and—what was still more important—some very +pretty faces. For many young girls came with their mothers to see their +friends and relatives compete for the Ladies’ Plate, which in those days +Eton used to win year after year in succession.[13] The light blue of +Eton was worn by the boys and by the pretty girls who accompanied them. + +The Athletic Sports at Eton were always interesting to watch. The +steeplechase course was a most severe one, some very big natural jumps +having to be negotiated, ending with the brook, which was the biggest +jump of all. H. M. Ridley was the fastest runner at Eton in my time. + +I recollect one day having a try at the brook in the “field,” which I +succeeded in jumping. The late Lord Lonsdale and his brother, the present +Earl, were standing some way off, and must have thought I could not do +it, for the former shouted out when I landed safely on the further bank:— + +“Well done, Black-eyed Susan!” _Black-eyed Susan_, I may mention, was +the name of a popular burlesque, by Douglas Jerrold, which had a great +run at that time at the Strand Theatre. One morning, before breakfast, I +ran John Lister-Kaye one hundred yards for a bet of five shillings, he +giving me five yards start, and managed to win, though he had felt very +confident about beating me. I ran one year in the Hundred Yards for boys +under sixteen at the Sports, and Holdsworth, who was acting as umpire, +told me afterwards that I might have won it, had I not stopped a yard +short, through mistaking the boundary line. He often asked me why I had +done so, but the only reason I could give was that I was so short-sighted. + +We had a play-room at James’s, where we used to practise the high jump, +and there were some boys who could clear a jump higher than themselves. +In this room stood a large blackboard, upon which all the names of the +boys who had been at James’s were carved, with the year they came and the +year they left. + +The cricket match between Eton and Winchester was played in alternate +years at either school. When the match took place at Eton, the band of +the Life Guards or the “Blues” would play on the ground, where there +was always a large attendance of visitors, including a great number of +ladies. But it was never so fine a sight as the Eton and Harrow match +at Lord’s. At one Winchester match I remember seeing Miss Evans (George +Eliot), who had come as the guest of one of the masters, and whose +presence created quite a sensation. + +Once at Lord’s, during the Eton and Harrow match, I was invited on to +the drag of a friend of mine named C. N. Ridley, who was in my own +division, where I had an excellent lunch, washed down by champagne. +Ridley was a good-looking boy, with fair, curly hair and blue eyes, and +his two sisters, who were exquisitely dressed on this occasion in light +blue satin dresses with white lace, were considered remarkable beauties +in London. They were quite young and very fair, like their brother, +with the most lovely blue eyes of the shade of the myosotis. They might +often be seen in the season riding in the Park, and were greatly admired +by the Prince of Wales, afterwards King Edward VII., who invited them +to Marlborough House. Unhappily, both these beautiful girls and their +brother were consumptive, and I heard that they all three died of +consumption not very long afterwards. + +In those days, the Eton and Harrow match at Lord’s was a far more +pleasant function than it has since become. Only people interested in +Eton or Harrow were there, and a good view of the game could easily be +obtained. Nowadays people go who do not know one school from the other, +and the whole space is reserved for the M.C.C., so that if you do not +happen to be a member, you cannot see the game at all. One constantly +hears people say at Lord’s now:— + +“I don’t know anything about cricket and care less, but I have come to +see the ladies’ toilettes.” + +In the old days this was not so. Lord’s has certainly not improved +since.[14] + +The boys at James’s used often to go into the pantry, where William, the +butler, would give them a glass of claret, and water Mr. James’s wine +well for him afterwards. Often the butler would exclaim: “Ha! spider up +there!” and while we were looking for it, he watered the claret. It was +in the butler’s pantry that I had the only fight I ever had at Eton, the +day before I left for good. My opponent was the Hon., afterwards Lord, +Henry Vane-Tempest, a son of the Marquis of Londonderry, who was a little +lower down in the school than I was. I don’t think either of us really +wanted to fight, but we were egged on by others whose respective parts we +had taken in a quarrel, and after a very short “scrap,” which I got the +best of, we shook hands and made friends. When I went down to Eton again, +I met Vane-Tempest at my tutor’s, and he told me that he was then leaving +to enter the “Blues.” He has since joined the majority, quite young in +life. + +Of the boys at James’s, I may mention that Sir John Lister-Kaye married +Miss Yznaga, an American lady, one of two sisters celebrated for their +beauty and toilettes in Paris, where I often met them in society. Sir +John was a gentleman in attendance on the late King Edward VII. Lord +Mandeville, who was in the Grenadier Guards, and afterwards became Duke +of Manchester, married the other sister. Cecil Lister-Kaye married +the sister of the Duke of Newcastle, who was himself at Eton. Cecil +Lister-Kaye told me recently that his son was at Eton, and that he often +went down to see him. He, no doubt, on these occasions, thinks with some +regret of the happy days of his youth at James’s. I have come across +some of those who were with me at Eton in quite unexpected places. For +instance, I met the present Earl of Northbrook in Bombay. He was on his +way to visit his uncle, then Viceroy of India, and had come to Bombay, he +told me, to buy Arab horses. He was in the same division with me at Eton, +and afterwards served in the Rifle Brigade and Grenadier Guards. Although +I may have forgotten many of my schoolfellows at Eton, I can never forget +those who were in my division. Among them was Henry de Vere Vane, then a +very clever, fair-haired boy, whom I remember envying because he learned +everything so quickly. He was the late Lord Barnard, and inherited the +Cleveland estates on succeeding to this title. I had been told that in +the hall of Raby Castle, his country-seat, a fire had been lighted two +hundred years ago and had never been extinguished since. But Lord Barnard +informed me that this is a legend, and sent me an account of a similar +one:— + + “_Fire kept in for two hundred years._ + + “One of the loneliest spots in England, where there are + only four cottages in an area of thirty thousand acres, + was described at Brampton (Cumberland) Revision Court. The + Conservative agent, Mr. Mawson, said he had visited the farm, + which was situated on a remote fell between Bewcastle and + Haltwhistle, on the border of Northumberland. Members of the + farmer’s family had lived in this particular cottage for six + hundred years, and there was a tradition that the kitchen fire + had never been out for two hundred years. The claimant slept in + a bedroom eight feet square. There was a child there that had + not seen another child for two years.” + +[Illustration: The Duke of Rutland + +[_To face p. 98._] + +Another who was in my division was the Hon. V. A. Parnell, a good-looking +boy, with black hair with a blueish reflection in it, and fine eyes. He +was a good cricketer and clever in school. At times, when we were up +to Mr. Thackeray, Parnell, as he reminded me recently, would, _faute +de mieux à faire_, be engaged in shinning matches with a boy who sat +next to him called Dobson. The latter was a very good-humoured fellow, +who retaliated without losing his temper, though at times he could with +difficulty refrain from betraying the pain which he endured so stoically +with a smiling face. + +The present Duke of Rutland, then Henry F. B. Manners, was at Eton with +me, but higher up in the school, and if my memory does not deceive me, +was in the Boats when in the Fifth Form. + +The present Lord Newlands, then known as J. H. C. Hozier, was very high +up in the school, and I can remember when he was in my tutor’s division, +as the latter used to say how clever he was, and he frequently came to +the pupil-room at James’s. Mr. James would often tell us about those who +were up to him, but it was rarely that he bestowed praise on any boy. + +When Doyne left Eton, I had his room, which commanded a view of the +fine lime-trees, which in the summer looked very charming. On the wall +hard by the boys used to stand or sit to criticize all the people who +passed along the road running through Eton. This must have been a rather +trying ordeal for some of the latter, for I remember that I used to +find it a very trying experience when I happened to be late for chapel, +particularly when I first came to Eton, to be obliged to run the gauntlet +of a double row of boys, who never failed to pass remarks on everyone. +The choir at Eton, which was the same as that of St. George’s Chapel at +Windsor, was a very good one, and one of the boys who sang in it, named +Hancock, was paid, I was told, one hundred and fifty pounds a year. +Hancock sang occasionally the solo part in Mendelssohn’s anthem, “O, +for the wings of a dove,” in a marvellous manner, his high notes being +wonderfully clear; but his voice lacked expression, and, as boys and +girls generally regard certain things purely from an æsthetic point of +view, the impression it made upon us was one rather of surprise than of +admiration. Some of us used to go on Sundays to St. George’s, Windsor, +and sit in the organ loft, where Dr. Elvey, who was a remarkably fine +organist, played most beautifully. + +After Dr. Hornby became Head Master, the custom of giving leaving books +was abolished. Personally, I regretted this innovation, not because I did +not receive any, but because I liked to make presents to my friends who +were leaving Eton; and the expense was a small one, to which, I am sure, +none of our parents objected. + +Most of us look back upon our school days as the happiest part of our +lives, for, to the schoolboy, the cares and anxieties which weigh upon +us as we grow older are unknown, and, given good health, an Eton boy’s +life ought to be _par excellence_ the very sum of earthly happiness. +Lord Rathdonnell, late of the Scots Greys, who, when at Eton, as +McClintock-Bunbury, stroked the Eight at Henley, and excelled at football +and at most games, besides being very high up in the school and very +popular, wrote to me some years ago, saying that the years he spent at +Eton were by far the happiest of his life, and that he always looked back +to them with intense pleasure. The Captain of the Boats at that time +was Edwards-Moss, now a baronet. Horace Ricardo (now Colonel Ricardo, +C.V.O.), whom I remember quite well, was then in the _Monarch_, and his +brother Cecil rowed in the _Victory_ and was Captain of the Boats in +1871. After leaving Eton, both brothers entered the Grenadier Guards, and +each of them commanded a battalion before retiring from the Service. I +remember that Doyne, who was never high up in the school and for whom +Latin and Greek were somewhat of a torture, telling me years afterwards +that he looked back with regret to the happy days he had spent at Eton, +which, all things considered, were perhaps the happiest of his life. Yet +Doyne was not one of those who had any trouble in after life; on the +contrary, he had everything which a man could possibly desire, besides +enjoying good health. But the joyous, irresponsible days of school life +were gone for ever, and, as he confessed to me, he would only too gladly +have returned to them and lived them over again. + +In regard to Eton at the present day, I heard not long ago from an old +schoolfellow, the late Colonel Sir Josceline Bagot, a distinguished +officer of the Guards and author, who had had a boy there, and who wrote +as follows:— + + “It all seems much the same, though, to my mind, not improved + in some ways. They have got more room certainly, but, for such + a big place as it has become, I think the traditional freedom + of the boys is overdone altogether. Much too much importance + is given to boys in ‘Pop,’ and allowing them and Captains of + Houses to smack boys with canes for certain offences more or + less officially is, to my mind, a great mistake, and starts + the rotten system of many public schools of ‘monitors,’ + ‘prefects,’ etc. No boys should have that power, and it is much + worse for them to have it than for the boys who get smacked. + It all comes from the masters thinking themselves too grand + to swish boys as in the old days; and the Head Master smacks + them on rare occasions with a stick, whereupon they put on two + pairs of trousers, etc., and merely laugh at it and him, and + they barely touch their hats at all to the masters. They all + smoke now to a great extent, far more than we ever did, and, + though the Head Master is wild about it, he is powerless to do + anything sensible to stop it; and some of these rich Jew boys + and foreigners have far too much money and spoil things. If I + were Head Master, I wouldn’t have them at the school at all. I + was next to Lyttelton in school for a year or so, and like him, + but he has no respect and control at all for such a position. + Still, if drawbacks have crept in, it is still the best school + in the world.” + +As time goes on, one hears everywhere, and always in a louder whisper, +the serious, dangerous word, “decadence.” But let us allow the evil +question whether our culture is really going to ground to rest, and +rather attempt a very naïve example: Suppose a true son of classical +Greece—Socrates, for instance—were conducted in a dream into the midst of +our modern culture. He would look with amazement at the marvellous means +of locomotion, the production of the factories, the luxurious comfort of +private houses, the magnificence of our theatres and so forth; but the +question whether we ought to be proud and happy he would answer in his +usual way:— + +“In my country I knew Pericles and heard the dramas of Sophocles. I knew +Alcibiades and saw Phidias at work, and my pupil was Plato. Now show me +your living masters.” + +The next day Socrates would relate:— + +“I dreamt this night I was in Persia. Everything is greater there +than you can imagine. Immensely great are the treasures, the armies +and navies, the towns and houses, the machinery employed. In short, +everything is inconceivably great; only the people are very small....” + + + + +CHAPTER IX + + Lady Grace Stopford—Tipperary in 1870—Robbed at Punchestown + Races—I get my own back + + +Just after I left Eton, in 1870, I went over to Ireland to stay with my +friend Doyne, who lived in County Wexford, and had a fine estate near +the sea, about half an hour’s walk from the beach. His mother and sister +lived with him, and he and I rode about his property and amused ourselves +very well, though he had no near neighbours, except the Earl of Courtown +and his family. The eldest son, Viscount Stopford, who had been with us +at Eton, was away at the time, though his sister, Lady Grace Stopford, +was there. One day we called, and were received by Lady Grace, who was +the only one of the family at home. After shaking hands with her, Doyne +said:— + +“I wanted to show my friend the fairest young lady in the county.” + +At which compliment she blushed and replied:— + +“I am afraid he will be much disappointed.” + +“On the contrary,” I observed, “I am agreeably surprised.” + +She then inquired if I knew her brother, and I told her that we were at +Eton together. Lady Grace was a girl of about sixteen, with a lovely +complexion, blue eyes and regular features. Her hair was of a reddish +tint, similar to that which one sees in certain pictures by Correggio, +and particularly in one in the Liechtenstein Gallery in Vienna, the face +of which also bore a resemblance to hers. In her manner she appeared +somewhat stiff, and more like the English than the Irish, who are +generally so free and easy. But then Lady Grace always spent the season +in London, and lived most of her time in England. Her brother, Lord +Stopford, now Earl of Courtown, was in the Grenadier Guards, and had +lately joined his regiment. + +Mrs. Doyne was a charming old lady, and her daughters had delightful +manners and were exceedingly pleasant in every way. While I was with +them, Mrs. Doyne told me that she and her family had received an +invitation to Killarney, and asked me to go with them, which I did with +great pleasure. The house we stayed at was a fine one, very prettily +situated near the Lake of Killarney, and the weather being beautiful and +very hot, it was very pleasant to go on the lake and visit the different +sights in the neighbourhood. I was delighted with the scenery of the +lake and the various waterfalls in the woods, some of the views being +exquisitely lovely. One day, when Doyne and I were riding on donkeys on +the rugged hills near the lake, a bare-footed Irish girl came up and +spoke to us in Irish, showing her beautiful teeth. She had very black +eyes and black hair falling loosely over her shoulders, and her legs, +like her feet, were bare. She could not speak a word of English, but +Doyne made her understand him somehow by means of gestures. + +Killarney gave me the impression that I was in Italy. There were so many +bare-legged boys and girls walking about, and the scenery was more like +that of the south of Europe than the British Isles; while the almost +tropical heat we were experiencing just then completed the illusion. One +day it rained very heavily, so Doyne and I went to the Hôtel Victoria, +where an American, who was playing billiards, said to us:— + +“I guess I shall have to say that I have seen the Lake of Killarney from +this billiard-room window, as I am leaving early to-morrow morning.” + +The tutor of a young fellow staying at the hôtel told me that I must +have Scottish blood in my veins, because I walked so carefully, as if +calculating every step I took, while an Irishman walked without the +least hesitation. I noticed that the good looks of the Irish people +were found more in the lower classes than in those above them. Some +of the bare-legged girls whom I saw were quite pretty, with something +of the Spanish type of beauty about them. Their hands and feet were +usually small, whereas those of some of the women of the upper classes +were of very generous proportions. Everywhere I went I met with a +“_gemüthlichkeit_,” which is not to be found in England, go where one +may; the Irish are so friendly and jolly, even if one does not know them. + +On leaving Killarney, we went to Tipperary, and stayed at Cashel, +with the Dean, Dr. MacDonnell, who told me that there were sixteen +roads leading to the town, on each of which a murder had recently been +committed. These crimes had, however, been committed for political +reasons, for if a man did not meddle with politics, he might travel along +these same roads at night with his pockets bulging with gold in perfect +safety. The Dean, who afterwards became a Canon of Peterborough,[15] had +a pretty daughter, a very amiable and clever girl, who is now the wife of +Sir Shirley Salt. + +I also stayed at Wells, an estate belonging to Mr. Mervyn Doyne, my +friend’s elder brother, who had married Lady Frances Fitzwilliam, the +eldest daughter of Earl Fitzwilliam. The house was a very imposing one, +built in the Elizabethan style and standing in the midst of extensive +grounds. Lady Francis Doyne was a nice-looking and extremely pleasant +woman. At dinner one evening she told me the following rather interesting +story:— + +“I happened to dream one night in town, just before we were leaving for +Ireland, that I had lost my dressing-case. Therefore, before starting, I +told my maid to take particular care of it during the journey. However, +when we arrived in Dublin, I left her in charge of the dressing-case for +two or three minutes at the station, and somehow she must have put it +down for an instant, since, on my returning to her, she exclaimed: ‘Oh, +my lady, the dressing-case is gone!’ My husband had all the cars which +were leaving the station stopped, but my dressing-case was nowhere to be +found. He telegraphed to Scotland Yard, in London, but with no success +whatever, and I have never recovered it to this day. I had at the time +eight thousand pounds’ worth of jewellery in it, besides valuable stones +belonging to my ancestors, which can never be replaced.” + +Speaking of London, Lady Fanny said:— + +“We had a house in Mount Street for the season, and one evening, when we +were giving a dinner-party, a band began playing outside our house. It +played rather well, so I sent my footman out to the conductor to ask him +to continue playing all the time we were at dinner, and to give him a +sovereign if he would do so. But the footman brought back the sovereign, +and told me that the conductor refused to play under five pounds.” + +Lady Fanny also said:— + +“People soon forget one in London. As a young girl, I lived with my +father in Grosvenor Square, but after my marriage I was not in London for +two years. When I returned to town, I found that everyone had forgotten +me entirely.” + +Earl Fitzwilliam, Lady Fanny’s father, used to give two big dinners in +town to his tenants, to each of which fifty guests were invited. At +one of these dinners the service was entirely of silver; at the other +entirely of gold. + +I was invited with Jim Doyne to stay at the Shelbourne Hotel, as the +guest of Earl Fitzwilliam, for the Punchestown Races. The first day of +the races it poured with rain, and Jim and I went to the course on an +Irish car. On the way he chaffed a man and a girl on our car whom he had +never seen before, who were engaged in a flirtation, and said to the girl +aloud:— + +“Don’t listen to the tales he is telling you; they are all lies.” + +The girl blushed, and the man, looking very much annoyed, answered:— + +“She knows I am telling her the truth.” + +There was a great rush to get into the stand, and Jim and I got +separated. I tendered an English five-pound note for admission, but the +man issuing the tickets said:— + +“I don’t take English notes, only Irish ones.” + +I told him I had a ticket for the Marquis of Drogheda’s private stand, +but he said that I must first pay the sovereign entrance to the other. +Suddenly, a man came forward and said:— + +“I will change your note, if you will give it me or come with me.” + +I followed him through the pouring rain to a tent, where he showed me +three cards, which he threw on a table, saying:— + +“I’ll bet you a fiver you don’t name the court card.” + +“But I don’t wish to bet,” I replied. + +“You must play,” rejoined he, “or I’ll keep your money.” + +I looked round for a policeman, but there was not one anywhere near, and, +while my eyes were off him, the man disappeared. I tried to find him all +day, but without success. + +In the evening, when I returned to the Shelbourne Hotel, Lord +Fitzwilliam’s sons, Thomas[16] and Charles Fitzwilliam, Lord Aberdour, +Jim and myself dined together in a private room. Lord Aberdour, who is +now Earl of Morton, said:—“I was making a bet with a man when someone +nearly knocked me down and took away my watch and chain, and in the +confusion of the moment I could not discover who it was.” + +“I did not come off any better,” remarked Charles Fitzwilliam, who had +been at Eton and was now in the “Blues,” “for I was paid a bet with half +a five-pound and half a ten-pound note pinned together.” + +The next day, when it rained again, I went to the races, and walked +about, keeping a sharp look-out for the man who had stolen my “fiver.” +Presently I caught sight of him, and going up to a constable, inquired +if he could arrest a man on suspicion, which he said he could. The +fellow was performing the three-card trick at the time, and was promptly +arrested. He, of course, loudly protested his innocence, saying:— + +“It was not me, but the Scotsman who did it, and he ain’t here to-day. I +don’t know the young gentleman at all.” + +The constable asked me if I were quite sure that this was the man, to +which I replied in the affirmative. He was then marched off, and a +head constable came and took down my affirmation, which I signed. The +three-card gentleman called out to me:— + +“I’ll give you twenty pounds if you’ll let me off,” and the constable, +overhearing this, said:— + +“Now he has confessed to taking the note; I see it’s all right.” + +During dinner at the “Shelbourne” that night I told my friends of my +adventure, when they all said:— + +“You must prosecute the man for the good of the public.” + +I decided to follow their advice, and, about a month later, I went with +Jim to Naas, where the fellow was to be tried, and where, as Jim happened +to know the county court judge, Baron de Robeck, we were given seats on +the Bench. When the prisoner was brought in, he at once pleaded guilty, +upon which the judge sentenced him to repay the five pounds, which he +did, and to three months’ hard labour. He was also ordered to pay the +costs of the prosecution, which came to as much as five pounds, but these +I refused to accept. + +At Naas we lunched with the Duke of Leinster, who had been at Eton with +us, and was then with his militia regiment. He was much interested in my +adventure, and glad to hear of the result. At the station a man came up +to me, and telling me he was the prisoner’s solicitor, asked me to give +him some money for persuading his client to plead guilty. But when I +spoke to Jim about it, he answered:—“Tell him to go to the devil.” + +And the man of law, overhearing the remark, took himself off without more +ado. + +I stayed some weeks longer with Jim Doyne,[17] when I went to London for +my “exam.” for the Army. + + + + +CHAPTER X + + Dieppe under Prussian Rule—A Toilette by Worth—A Confirmed + Gambler + + +During the Franco-German War, while I was at Eton, my parents remained +in Paris, and though my father left the city during the Commune, my +mother stayed until the very last, when she was persuaded to follow him. +Towards the end of the war I joined my parents at Dieppe, and saw the +Prussians enter the town, when eighteen soldiers were billeted on the +owner of the house we lived in. Madame Gaillard, an American lady, the +young wife of General Gaillard, who was afterwards appointed to look +after Maréchal Bazaine when a prisoner, was with us at Dieppe. She was a +very pretty woman, and she and the Baronne van Havre usually went with +my mother to the afternoon concerts. I took lessons on the violin from +the chief violinist, whose name was Lamoury. His brother was one of the +first violoncello players in France, and played in the orchestra at the +Conservatoire in Paris. Lamoury told me that he had begun to learn the +violin too late in life to be a virtuoso on that instrument, as he had +not begun to play it until he was fourteen, whereas you ought to start +playing at the age of seven in order to be anything remarkable as a +violinist. + +The English Consul at Dieppe was a Mr. Chapman, and there were several +English residents. Among them were Edward Blount, a friend of my father, +who had been at school with Gambetta and spoke French almost better than +he did English, and a Major Boland, from Bath, who had married a French +lady, the sister of Jules Simon, one of the Ministers then in power in +Paris. Boland was in the habit of depreciating the French Army and +praising the Prussians in every way. Owing to his having lived in the +same house as his brother-in-law for many years before the war, he had +had, although an Englishman, opportunities for ascertaining the real +condition of the French Army. + +“I knew from the first,” he would observe, “that the French would be +defeated, and that Bazaine was a traitor, who was playing into the hands +of the Prussians all along.” + +Jules Simon seemed to share his opinion of the state to which the Empire +had reduced France by embarking in this disastrous war, for which she was +unprepared, whereas Prussia had been preparing for it for many years. + +Dieppe is a very charming seaside resort in the summer months, and it was +very pleasant to go to the Casino, where the band played of an afternoon, +and listen to the orchestra, which in those days was excellent, as most +of the performers came from Paris. The Casino was near the sea, and to +sit there and watch the sea sparkling under the rays of the sun and the +snow-white sails in the distance, bathed, as evening approached, in a +rosy light, was to me a never-failing source of pleasure. At such an +hour as this Time and Space seem to be eliminated. The incoming tide +approaches with a gentle murmur. It encircles first one spot on the +sands, then another; rests for a moment, and then continues its advance. +The sea is a symbol for us of Eternity and of our passing away. + +When the Uhlans entered Dieppe, followed by the Prussian infantry, the +town was in a ferment, since no one knew what was going to follow. All +kinds of rumours were afloat, and some people believed that a warship +would bombard the town, if the invaders met with any resistance. The +Germans requisitioned many things, with which the inhabitants were +very reluctant to supply them, and ordered that all lights should be +extinguished at 8 p.m., and that after 10 p.m. no one should leave his +house. This condition of affairs naturally did not suit my father, and +he determined to leave Dieppe at once. But this was a difficult matter, +as to go by rail was nearly impossible, and by sea altogether out of +the question. Finally we decided to hire a carriage and to start before +daybreak, although we were very much afraid lest we should be stopped by +the Prussians. We succeeded, however, in escaping detection and reached +Dunkerque, where we took the train for Calais, and thence made our way to +Boulogne. Here we stayed for some days at the Hôtel des Bains, and then +embarked for Folkestone, from which we proceeded to Brighton. + +At Brighton, where my parents took a house facing the sea, and not far +from the Old Pier, we found Captain and Mrs. Berkeley, who had taken +a house for the season in Regency Square; Mrs. Charles Woodforde, an +aunt of my father, who was staying there with her daughter, and Sophia +Kinglake, a sister of the author of “Eöthen,” whom Thackeray once +described as the cleverest woman he had ever met in his life. One day, I +remember calling with my mother upon her, when she told us that she was +knitting a scarf for John Ardagh, who afterwards became General Sir John +Ardagh, and died some years ago. Shortly after we arrived, a very pretty, +graceful and beautifully-dressed girl entered the room. She was a Miss +Gordon, daughter of a General Gordon, and, in the course of conversation, +said to me:— + +“I always get my dresses from Worth, and sometimes I go and stay with his +family at their country-place in France. I generally stop with them from +three weeks to a month, and return to England with a fine lot of dresses. +Worth would be horrified were he to see me to-day, because I am wearing +gloves which do not match my dress. Once I put on grey gloves with a +costume of an unusual colour, upon which he told me that if I ever did +so again, he would make for me no more. So, you see, I have to study his +taste in the matter of toilettes most carefully.” + +I inquired whether Worth charged very high prices for his confections. + +“It is according to what you consider high,” she replied. “He charges +from forty pounds for a dress, and will not make one under that price; +but it is always perfectly finished and lined with silk. For ball-dresses +he charges more. I get both my morning-gowns and ball-toilettes from him, +for I consider that he is the only man who can make dresses which are +worth wearing.” + +I asked if Laferrière were not very good, as I had heard so much about +him in Paris. + +“Yes, he is,” she said, “but Worth I consider still better.” + +Miss Gordon was a girl of about eighteen, with a wonderfully clear +complexion, brown hair, blue eyes, and rather good features. She had also +a beautiful figure, for which reason it must have been quite a pleasure +for a dressmaker to make for her. She was wearing on this occasion a +blue costume, with a good deal of _passementerie_ on it, and very pretty +buttons in enamel, a white petticoat with flounces of lace, stockings _à +jour_, and shoes with Louis Quinze heels. Her hat matched her dress, and +the _ensemble_ would have been a dream, had not her gloves, which were +brown, spoiled—as she herself admitted—an otherwise perfect toilette. + +While at Brighton, I used frequently to go on the Pier with my mother to +listen to the band, which, however, played very badly. Captain and Mrs. +Berkeley often came there too, and would sit with us until my father came +to fetch us to lunch. Captain Dorrien was also at Brighton at this time, +and occasionally some of the old society of Homburg would meet on the +Pier, and talk over their experiences at roulette and trente-et-quarante. + +“I say, Fred,” inquired Dorrien one day of my father, “how about your +infallible system? What was it? Let me see: one louis _à cheval_ between +zero and two, one between twelve and fifteen, one between twenty-six and +twenty-nine, and one between thirty-two and thirty-five. Isn’t that it?” + +“Yes, my dear fellow,” answered my father, “and you double the amount if +you lose.” + +“Oh!” exclaimed Berkeley, “that game is a martingale, and it nearly broke +me.” + +“Then, old fellow,” said my father, “you didn’t play it the right way.” + +“Oh, yes, I did, and in very much the right way, for I lost all I had....” + +“I wish I were at Homburg to try it again,” continued my father. + +“You would only lose again,” said Berkeley. + +“I am sorry that I ever played there at all,” said Dorrien. + +“So am I,” exclaimed Berkeley, “but there is an attraction there that +somehow one cannot resist.” + +“I feel I should win if I played at Monte Carlo,” said my father. + +“You always felt like that at Homburg,” remarked Dorrien. “You said, +if you remember, one evening, that you felt like winning, and you lost +heavily.” + +“But I won afterwards—three hundred louis.” + +“My dear fellow, you forget how much you lost. You can talk like that +to people who know nothing about the game, but as for me, who have lost +thirty thousand pounds at it, you cannot make me believe that white is +black.” + +“Can’t I?” said my father, laughing. + +“No, you can’t, and you are foolish to try to make yourself believe that +you can ever win at that game.” + +“I agree with you entirely,” observed Berkeley. + +“I always hope to win back what I have lost,” said my father. + +“That you will never do at roulette and trente-et-quarante,” said Dorrien. + +“Don’t you play at all now then?” asked my father. + +“Yes, at baccarat and the Stock Exchange.” + +“That is as bad,” remarked my father. + +“I am not sure it isn’t worse,” said Dorrien, laughing. + +“Quite as bad,” exclaimed Berkeley, “but I do the same thing.” + +“I shall have a try this winter at Monte Carlo,” said my father. + +“You have had one lesson; why do you want to burn your fingers again?” +asked Dorrien. + +“If you do,” remarked Berkeley, “_vous y perdrez vos pas, mon cher ami_.” + +And then they talked about other things. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + + The Princess von Metternich—The Lady of the Luxembourg Gardens + + +Paris was very dull in the way of entertainments and parties after the +Commune, and people spoke of hardly anything but the siege. Mrs. Healy, +an aunt of Viscount Dillon, who lived in the same house as my parents in +the Rue d’Albe, her _appartement_ being on the _entresol_, had remained +there throughout the siege and the Commune, and told us that she had +always contrived to get everything she wanted in the way of eatables, +though she had had to pay an enormously high price for them; twenty +francs a pound, for instance, for butter, which she obtained as well as +eggs and meat, and consequently was never obliged to dine off a mouse +or any delicacy of that description, like most of the people in Paris. +Theobald, Lord Dillon, often came to see his aunt, and one day he related +to us how he had become acquainted with Sims Reeves, and how he had been +the means of the latter continuing his studies at Milan as a singer. It +was entirely through Lord Dillon’s generosity that Sims Reeves became so +well known, as he had advanced him a large sum of money. Albani was also +first brought into notice in England by Lord Dillon, who was so enchanted +with her beautiful voice that he soon made known to everybody the +“star” he had discovered. Albani was a frequent guest at his beautiful +country-seat, Ditchley Park, for he and Lady Dillon not only admired her +most exquisite voice, but her very charming personality as well. + +The last time I met Lord Dillon was on the pier at Brighton, when I +happened to be on leave from Aldershot, where my regiment was then +stationed; and, I remember, I introduced Lord Headley to him, at the +former’s request. The two noblemen discussed politics, upon which subject +they did not agree. Later the same day, I introduced two young officers +to Lord Dillon, as he told me he was very fond of young men, he himself +being then an old man. The officers in question were both Old Etonians +and attached to my regiment. One was Richard Sutton, a son of Sir Richard +Sutton, who died before his father; the other, the present Sir Charles E. +C. Hartopp, a nephew of the Duke of Norfolk, who had just been staying at +Arundel with his uncle. + +I happened to meet Whitehead, a correspondent of the _Daily Telegraph_, +who had remained in Paris during the siege. I asked him whether he was +not at all alarmed at the time, to which he replied that he did not know +what fear meant, and had never been afraid of anything in his life. + +I was still at Eton, but came to Paris for my holidays, and one evening +went to a ball, at which I recollect the Princess von Metternich, wife of +the Austrian Ambassador, was present, and that she left after remaining +only half an hour. Sir Edward Malet, who was then First Secretary at the +British Embassy, led the cotillion. It was a terribly dull affair, and I +was quite glad to get away. Evidently, the Princess von Metternich saw at +a glance what it was like, and only waited until her carriage returned, +or no doubt she would have left even sooner. The Princess spoke English +just like an Englishwoman, and when she spoke in German interlarded every +sentence with French words, as all the Austrian nobility do. She had +plenty of _esprit_, and when I saw her in recent years in Vienna, she +always used to make use of the late Baron Nathan de Rothschild to assist +her in collecting money for the poor of the city, and—some people were +malicious enough to say—for herself as well. She had such a way of asking +for charitable contributions that she scarcely ever met with a refusal, +and never indeed from “her little Jew,” as she was accustomed to call +Baron Nathan. + +After I left Eton, I returned to Paris, and, as it was summer, I often +walked in the Luxembourg Gardens, where it was very pleasant to sit +beneath the trees and read a book. One day, I happened to be sitting near +a fountain which contained some gold fish. On the same seat sat a young +girl with fair hair, who appeared entirely absorbed in a book which she +was reading, and from which she did not raise her eyes for a moment. I +asked her what was the name of the novel in which she was so interested. +She answered that it was not a novel at all, but a serious modern French +work on philosophy. And she handed it to me. I was not a little curious +to know why she read such books, and questioned her on the matter, when +she replied that they were the only ones capable of distracting her +thoughts, and that, as her own life had been like a novel, she avoided +such stories, for they usually reminded her of her own experiences, and +made her sadder than ever. I inquired if she would mind letting me know +her own history, and, at the same time, studied her more attentively than +before. She was a fair girl, with blue eyes with long black eyelashes, +a very clear complexion and long wavy hair. Her features were small and +rather regular, and she had very fine teeth and a beautiful figure. +She was dressed in deep mourning, and her petticoat was trimmed with +Valenciennes lace, of which I could just catch a glimpse when she raised +her tiny foot occasionally. She acceded to my request, and related to me +the following story:— + +“I was living with my parents in the country, when an aunt of mine asked +me to come to Paris, saying that she would have me taught dressmaking. On +my arrival in Paris, I went to live with my aunt and became an apprentice +at a dressmaker’s shop, which had a number of customers among the ladies +of the Faubourg Saint-Germain. One morning, when I was on my way to +business, I noticed that a gentleman was following me, but it was not +until some days later that I made his acquaintance, when he told me that +he had fallen in love with me, and offered to furnish an _appartement_ +for me, and to give me three louis a day to spend as I pleased. Soon +afterwards I left my aunt, and not only did this gentleman carry out his +promise, but gave me my own servants and carriage and horses. As I had +not received very much education, I had various masters, one to teach +me to speak and write French correctly, another for the piano, a third +for singing. As for reading, I never had any taste for the rubbish which +most girls affect, but studied the works of Racine, Corneille, Rousseau +and Voltaire.[18] I gradually developed a passion for philosophy, and +can say that I have read most of the works of the great philosophers, +both ancient and modern, in French. I enjoyed my life thoroughly, and, +as I was only sixteen and quite without experience of the world, I was +foolish enough to believe that my good fortune would continue; and it +is needless to say that I took no thought for the future, but lived +only for the present. My friend was a very wealthy Mexican and quite +young; perhaps a little older than you are, but not very much. He seemed +perfectly devoted to me, satisfying all my caprices and spending a great +deal of money on me, quite apart from what he gave me for myself. I was +very fond of going to the Théâtre-Français, where he would always take +a box and accompany me. We also went very often to the Grand Opéra, +and occasionally to the smaller theatres, for the latter of which, +however, I had but little taste. On Sundays, generally after I had been +to Mass—for, notwithstanding my predilection for philosophy, I still +retained a remnant of faith in the Catholic religion—I drove in the +Bois de Boulogne, sometimes alone, at others accompanied by my friend. +In every respect, my life was most enjoyable, and I had no cares of any +kind. This state of affairs lasted for a year, during which my friend +was most devoted to me, and we never had an angry word with each other. +He was kindness itself in every conceivable way, while I was perfectly +devoted to him. Suddenly, one day, when I had been out alone shopping, I +saw on my return home a note addressed to me lying on the table in the +salon. Recognizing my friend’s handwriting, I tore it open immediately. +It contained only a few lines, which, however, I shall never forget so +long as I live. Indeed, so engraven on my mind are they, that, were I to +forget everything else, I should never forget them!” + +On saying this, she suddenly burst into tears, and sobbed so violently +that it was not for some little time that she was able to continue. Then +she said:— + +“You will forgive me, for my grief is almost too great for me to endure. +Imagine my astonishment and dismay when I read this note, which had been +hurriedly written:— + + “‘_Ma chérie,—Je suis forcé de partir immédiatement pour la + Mexique; je n’ai pas même le temps de venir te dire àdieu._’[19] + +“I could scarcely believe my own eyes, and read those lines again and +again, sobbing all the while, and incapable of realizing what had +happened. I had only a few hundred francs left, all the rest having been +spent; and, to make a long story short, I had very soon to leave my +_appartement_ and return to my aunt. I have been with her now a week, and +I need not tell you how very hard I find it to return to work, for which +I feel I am no longer fit. Besides, my aunt is continually reproaching +me, and treats me much worse than she did before. I cannot stand it any +longer....” + +At this point, she stopped and was silent for a while. Then she suddenly +asked me if I could assist her as her friend had done, adding that she +was not one of those girls who could love several men. I told her how I +was situated, and she said she would come to a restaurant in the Quartier +Latin with me and take some refreshment. We went, I remember, to some +restaurant near the Luxembourg Gardens, and, when we were alone, she told +me that it was a pity that I could not afford to make her my _maîtresse +attitrée_, as she thought I might perhaps succeed in making her forget +her Mexican. Although I did not aspire to have such warm blood in my +veins, yet perhaps she liked the contrast. She wept bitterly, and when +she left me, said:— + +“_Vous avez beaucoup de cœur_; and, if I meet you again, it will be in +three days’ time in the Luxembourg Gardens. If I do not come, you will +know that I have done as I told you before I should do—put an end to my +existence. There is nothing else for me to do, and _le bon Dieu me le +pardonnera_.” + +I went to the Luxembourg Gardens three days later, and sat on the same +seat, but, though I waited until it grew dark, there was no sign of her. +I returned to the Gardens every day for weeks and weeks afterwards, more +out of habit than for any other reason, and thought of her and wondered +what had become of her all the time I was there. I did not even know her +Christian name, but I rather fancied it was Mariette. The consequence was +that I was seized with a sudden fit of melancholy, which I was imprudent +enough to give way to, and was continually reading Goethe’s _Die Leiden +des jungen Werthers_, until I felt convinced that I should end my life +in the same way as she had done. For, though I never heard anything more +about her, I made quite sure that she had acted as she had threatened she +would. + +Shortly after this, I decided to go to Bonn on the Rhine, to study at the +University; and Miss Kathleen O’Meara, the author of “The Salon of Madame +Mohl,” who was a young girl at that time, gave me a letter to the wife of +Professor Dr. Binz, a sister of General Salis-Schwabe. I was then very +anxious to enter the Austrian Army, and tried very hard to do so. Through +the kindness of Mr. Somerset Beaumont, of the Foreign Office, my request +was put before Prince Richard von Metternich and Baron von Hübner; and +the latter, who was at that time Ambassador in Paris, informed me, when I +saw him at the Embassy, that I should have to become an Austrian subject. +This was easy enough; but the examination was not, as since the War of +1866 it had been made much more severe. It was in pursuance of this +intention to enter the Austrian Army that I made up my mind to study at +the University at Bonn. My father was very much against my doing so, but +I eventually prevailed upon him to let me go, though he warned me that I +must put up with any evil consequences that might result from this _coup +de tête_ of mine. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + + Bonn—An Anecdote of Beethoven—The King’s Hussars—The Howard + Vyses—A German Professor on England—Domesticated Habits of + German Girls—Professor Delbrück + + +On my arrival at Bonn, I stayed at the Hôtel Rheineck, which commanded +a splendid view of the distant mountains. Here I made the acquaintance +of the late Mr. Ranyard, the celebrated astronomer, who told me that +the well-known author “A. L. O. E.” was his aunt. Mr. Ranyard was also +stopping at the “Rheineck,” and at the midday _table d’hôte_ sat next +to a Frau Phillip, a German lady from Frankfurt, who was rather stout, +but good-looking. He made love to her, and, though he spoke German very +badly, she appeared to understand him. At four o’clock we used to sit out +on the verandah of the hôtel, which overlooked the Rhine, and take our +coffee there, with an excellent _Kuchen_, for which Germany is famous. +Some days after my arrival at Bonn, Ranyard, who was flirting with Frau +Phillip, quite forgot that he had to catch the boat to Cologne, and +missed it. He was quite in despair at this, as he had not enough money +with him to stay any longer at Bonn. However, the proprietor of the hotel +said he would lend him some, which he could repay him when he arrived +in England. Ranyard accordingly arranged to stay on a day or two longer +at Bonn, as the hotel-keeper was confiding enough to advance him £5. I +mention this incident to show how kind Germans are at times, though, of +course, there are exceptions everywhere. + +I called on Professor Dr. Binz and his wife, who lived in a pretty villa +with a delightful garden attached to it. The latter’s sister, Miss +Salis-Schwabe, and her brother, who was an officer in the 7th Dragoon +Guards, were staying with her on a visit, and I went for several +rides with them. Miss Salis-Schwabe was a nice-looking girl, with a +considerable fortune of her own, and lived chiefly in England. She +afterwards married the late Sir Frank Lockwood, the well-known Q.C.; and +I was told by the Hon. Mrs. Henry Orde-Powlett, who knew her, that she +was always very disappointed if her husband did not come home every day +with fifty guineas as “refreshers” in his pocket. + +Frau Professor Binz told me that she knew of a Professor Dr. Andrä, who +had a pretty daughter, so that his house would be just the very one for +me to live at; and I accordingly made arrangements to take rooms there, +with board. + +Fräulein Margarethe Andrä was a rather pretty girl, a blonde, with blue +eyes, but she was, I thought, somewhat insipid, and very strait-laced. +She was well read and a free-thinker, like her father, who never went +to any church. Professor Dr. Andrä was very clever, and, indeed, some +people said he was the cleverest of the professors at Bonn University. I +remember him telling me about his wife, whom he had recently lost. She +knew, according to him, exactly what he was going to say before he opened +his mouth, and had also foretold many events before there was a chance of +their happening, in a marvellous manner. I asked Andrä if he would not +like to see his wife again. + +“No,” he replied. “I loved her very much, but I have no desire to live +again, and, what is more, I am sure that after this existence there is no +other. And it is much better so.” + +He lectured on Anthropology and Mineralogy, two sciences in which I took +no interest. I attended the lectures of Geheimrath von Sybel, the famous +historian, who, Dr. Andrä said, was a Republican at heart, but pretended +not to be, in order to keep in with Bismarck, who since 1870 had been all +powerful in Germany. Von Sybel was one of the finest lecturers I ever +heard. He contrived to make his subject most interesting, however dry it +might otherwise have appeared; and his lectures were always crowded with +students, whereas those of some of the other professors were attended by +very few, as it was entirely optional which lectures the students at the +University attended. + +Bonn is the birthplace of Beethoven, a fine statue of whom was erected +in 1845 on the Poppelsdorfer Allee. Grillparzer writes in his diary for +1843:— + +“The windows of my grandmother’s house faced the courtyard of the +dwelling of a peasant called Flehberger, who bore a bad name. This +Flehberger had a very pretty daughter, called Lisa, whose reputation was +also not of the best. Beethoven appeared to be much interested in the +girl, and I can see him as he came up the little street, dragging his +white handkerchief after him, until he came to a stop at Flehberger’s +house, where the frivolous beauty was standing on a wagon filled with +hay, working with a pitchfork, and laughing the while. Beethoven stood +silent and looked at her, until the girl, whose taste lay more in the +direction of peasant boys, made him angry by rude words or by obstinately +ignoring his presence. Then he walked away, but did not fail, the next +time he passed that way, to stop and look into the courtyard. Indeed, +his interest in the girl went so far that, when her father was arrested +and put in prison for being concerned in a drunken brawl in the village, +Beethoven endeavoured to rescue him, and narrowly escaped having to share +the captivity of the man whom he had so unwisely protected.” + +It is said that Beethoven wept when his “Overture to Leonora” was first +played at Vienna, where it met with no success. He only passed his youth +at Bonn, and then went to Vienna, where the Archduke Rudolf, Prince +Kinsky and Prince Lobkowitz gave him an annuity of 4,000 florins (nearly +£350) for life, in order that he might devote his time entirely to music, +free from all financial cares. The fact that the same provision was never +made for Mozart, who was an Austrian by birth, makes one think of the +proverb: “_Nemo propheta in patria_.” Grillparzer, Austria’s greatest +poet, wrote the funeral speech read at Beethoven’s tomb in Vienna on +March 27th, 1827, and on May 1st, 1880, a statue to his memory was +erected there, near the garden of the Hof Burg, on the Ringstrasse. + +Captain Horrocks, whom my father knew very well, was then living at Bonn +with his family. His brother held an appointment at the Court of the +Grand Duke of Hesse. Captain Horrocks once wrote a three-volume novel, +which my mother tried to read, but said that she never could get beyond +the first volume. She lent the first volume of the book to several of her +friends, but not one of them ever asked for the second and third. When I +mentioned Captain Horrocks’s name to my mother, she said:— + +“When I think of him, I cannot imagine how he could have written such a +dull book. I have never yet come across any one who has had the courage +to read the whole of his novel.” + +Horrocks was, nevertheless, an amusing man, who had a great deal of +dry wit. He had several very pretty daughters, the eldest one being +considered the belle of Bonn at that time. I remember his remarking to me +once that a poor man could never dress well, as he always bought cheap +clothes, and they never lasted any time. “Depend upon it, whatever is +cheap is bad,” he always used to say. + +The regiment stationed at Bonn was the King’s Hussars. It was commanded +by Prince Reuss, and there were seven princes amongst its officers. I +knew the two Princes Bentheim, and Counts von der Goltz, Metternich, +Moltke and Bernstorff. The last-named was a gay young officer, who spoke +English like an Englishman. I saw a good deal of him. His father had +been Prussian Ambassador in England, and he had a brother serving in +the Garde Kürassier Regiment in Berlin. Prince Reuss was very severe +with his officers, and insisted that, when they attended a ball, they +should wear their swords the whole time, except when actually dancing. +On one occasion, an officer, who had omitted to replace his sword after +a dance, was put under arrest for a week and confined to his quarters. +Bernstorff, so he told me, once entered a tavern of bad reputation in +Cologne in plain clothes, as he did not like to go to such a place in +uniform, and on his return to Bonn was placed under arrest for a week. +Notwithstanding the severity of the punishment meted out for minor +offences against discipline, very little, if any, notice was taken when +officers in uniform became intoxicated at balls. I can remember attending +a ball at the Royal Hôtel at Bonn, at which several officers of the +King’s Hussars were present wearing their dark blue uniform with gold +lace, as they were never allowed to attend dances in plain clothes. One +of them insisted on dancing, though he was so intoxicated that he could +scarcely stand, and the others were highly amused at his efforts to dance +with a lady, who must have been in entire ignorance of the state her +partner was in. + +When the King’s Hussars gave a ball at Bonn, which they did once every +winter, they only invited the officers of the 7th Kürassiers from +Cologne, and not a single infantry officer from the Line regiments at +either place. Some of the English at Bonn were invited to this ball, +but I cannot say that it came up to one’s expectations. In the first +place, it was a terribly stiff affair. The officers stood in one part of +the ball-room; the ladies, mostly seated, occupied the other part, and +at the end of a dance, an officer generally conducted his partner back +to her seat and left her with her lady friends. The supper was not at +all a bad one, and there was plenty of champagne, but the guests had to +pay for what they ate and drank. However, it was considered so great an +honour to be invited to this ball that no one grumbled; in fact, they +appeared to think it quite natural that they should have to pay for their +refreshments. + +The King’s Hussars was regarded as one of the crack Prussian regiments, +and undoubtedly some of its officers were of very high social standing. +But by no means all of these officers were wealthy, and I was told that +the Princes Bentheim had only £150 a year each, besides their pay. The +officers generally rode in the Poppelsdorfer Allee of a morning, making +their horses perform _la haute école_, as though they were at a circus. +Only one corps of students mixed at all with the officers. This was the +well-known Borussia Corps, the members of which—the _Borussen_—wore a +white cap somewhat similar in shape to that worn by French officers. This +corps was composed entirely of members of the Prussian nobility, most +of them being counts and barons, and they did not associate at all with +any of the other student corps. They fought duels with the _Schläger_, +and got cut about the face, but the more they were disfigured, the more +pleased they appeared to be. Some of the _Borussen_ joined the King’s +Hussars afterwards, but what became of their scars I do not know, for, +strange to say, I have never seen any officers with these ugly marks on +their faces. Perhaps, after a time, the scars disappear; I can think of +no other explanation, for all the corps students are forced to fight +duels. + +I can remember Dr. Andrä once showing me a tiny shop at Bonn, above which +the royal arms of a certain country were displayed, and when I inquired +the reason of this, he told me the following story, which I give in his +own words:— + +“When the heir to a certain principality was a student at Bonn, he +happened to enter this shop, in which there was a very pretty girl +serving. The latter, who pretended ignorance of his identity, invited +the Prince to come and see her one evening. The Prince went, and a +violent flirtation was in progress, when the door opened, and the owner +of the shop entered. This person affected the utmost astonishment and +indignation, and, informing the Prince that the girl was his wife, +threatened that, unless the would-be destroyer of his domestic happiness +were prepared to write him out there and then a cheque for several +thousand thalers, he would make the affair public. The Prince, anxious +to avoid a scandal, complied with his demand, and, moreover, gave him +permission to display the arms of his country over his shop-front as +supplying His Highness with goods. After the Prince had left Bonn, the +cunning rascal sent the girl, who was not his wife at all, back to +Cologne, from which she had come, it was said, for the express purpose of +assisting the shopkeeper to entrap the Prince.” + +I used to go to the “Kneipe,” where the corps students assembled, with +a young American named Howard Vyse and his younger brother.[20] We +always went of an evening, when songs, principally “Studenten Lieder,” +were sung, and there was heavy drinking. On one occasion, the younger +Vyse, on coming out into the night air, after attending one of these +entertainments, told me that he felt so queer that he could not find his +way home, and asked if I could put him up for the night. I took him to +Dr. Andrä’s house, and he slept in my sitting-room. Next morning, the +professor inquired why I had brought Vyse home with me, and I told him +the reason, quoting, at the same time, the words of Nietzsche:— + +“_Alles ist erlaubt, nichts ist verboten._” + +To which he replied that such were not his views; that he considered +that everyone ought to lead a very moral life; that it was wrong to get +intoxicated, and that, although he never entered a church, he lived as +moral a life as many religious people, who often professed to be better +than they really were. + +Professor Andrä was an intimate friend of the famous author, Berthold +Auerbach, and once, when he was staying with Auerbach, the latter was +engaged in writing his celebrated novel, _Das Landhaus am Rhein_. One +day, Andrä asked him to walk to Poppelsdorf, where the professor was +going to lecture. But he declined, saying that to do so would put some +of his ideas for his novel out of his head, as it was essential for him +to keep constantly in mind what he intended to write about. Andrä showed +me the house on the Rhine which Auerbach had described in his novel, and +one day took me there to visit a retired merchant, who, after making a +fortune in America, had bought this beautiful villa in the Koblentzer +Strasse, which had a very fine garden leading down to the Rhine. Andrä +told me that he detested novels; nevertheless, one day, when I happened +to be reading _Auf der Höhe_, by Auerbach, he asked me to lend it him, +and, after reading it, said + +“After all, it is very well written, and I am pleased with it; some of +the ideas are uncommonly good, and the plot is ingenious.” + +Excellenz von Dechen, Minister of the Rhine Provinces, told me that +Andrä might have occupied Bismarck’s position,[21] but that he was too +honest a man to change his opinions. Andrä told me that Germany was far +more fitted than France for a republican form of government, and that, +if the War of 1870 had had a different issue, Germany would have been a +republic, as France is now. He entertained a poor opinion of England and +the English, whom he considered the most selfish and self-opinionated +nation in Europe, and years behind Germany in intelligence. He held that +Darwin, whose works he had read, had merely been the first to publish the +ideas of a well-known German professor; and he himself had lectured upon +Darwin’s theory,[22] in which he was a firm believer, long before he had +ever heard of him. + +Andrä told me that at all the dinners which he attended, as a professor +of the University, he took precedence of all the officers of the +King’s Hussars and of any titled person who had not some higher State +appointment than he held. When I told him that this would not have been +the case in England, he smiled and said:— + +“In your country, with your antiquated laws, how can you expect so much +civilization as in Germany? The English have a great deal to learn, and +it will be a very long while before their barbarous customs are knocked +on the head. So far as civilization is concerned, England is in a worse +condition than France, and, Heaven knows, France has yet a good deal to +learn.” + +In his opinion, Bismarck was a man of great intellect, but without any +conscience whatever. Moltke, he told me, was quite positive that Germany +would defeat France before the war had begun, and he was a man “_welcher +schweigt in sieben Sprachen_,” as he rarely ever spoke. Moltke’s son, +afterwards Field-Marshal Count von Moltke, was then in the King’s Hussars +at Bonn, and I knew him very well, but, save for indulging in some +amorous escapades and getting very much into debt, he did not distinguish +himself, though I have no doubt he deserved the Iron Cross which he +obtained in the War of 1870, with most of the officers of the King’s +Hussars. Of Field-Marshal Freiherr von der Goltz it was said:— + + “Freiherr von der Goltz, + Von seiner Dummheit ist er stoltz.”[23] + +I often would ask Andrä what books I ought to read, and one of the first +he recommended was Hauff’s _Lichtenstein_, a charming romance in the +style of Sir Walter Scott. Heine was a great favourite with Andrä, and he +could repeat his _Lieder_ off by heart.[24] Goethe he ranked far above +Schiller, and considered the first part of _Faust_ vastly superior to +the second. He had a very high opinion of Lessing’s works in general. +Of modern authors, he recommended Karl von Holtei’s _Die Vagabunden_, +which was, he told me, quite a classic, and I have read it again and +again with pleasure. It is somewhat in the style of _la Vie de Bohème_, +by Mürger, but I prefer it to the French work. In comparing Lesage with +Scott, Victor Hugo seems to think more highly of the latter; but Andrä +considered that _Gil Blas_ would outlive all Scott’s novels, which was +also the opinion of Grillparzer. It was through Andrä that I became a +supporting member of the “Verein zur Verbreitung naturwissenschaftlicher +Kenntnisse in Wien,” which I have been for many years. The ill-fated +Crown Prince Rudolf was formerly the Protector of this society, a +position which was held recently by the late Archduke Franz Ferdinand, +the heir to the Austrian throne. + +Andrä had held a post in Siebenbürgen, in Hungary, under the Archduke +Johann, for some years before his appointment to be a professor at Bonn. +He was very fond of the Hungarians and told me that he and some friends +were one evening at a restaurant in a village in Hungary, where three or +four musicians played so delightfully that his party kept giving them +money to continue, and that he was sure that they went on playing until +about five o’clock the following morning. He was passionately fond of +music, and I would often ask him to play me some Austrian marches and +waltzes on the piano, which he did with the true Austrian spirit. His +daughter never played the piano, telling me that unless you can play +exceptionally well, it is better to leave it alone. I wish all English +girls were of her opinion. + +German girls are as a rule very clever, and have a good deal to say +for themselves. They are highly sentimental, far more so than English +girls, and can generally read French and English books easily enough, +though I found that they could speak very little of these languages, as +they had very little practice and few occasions to do so. Every girl in +Germany can do the most difficult needlework, embroidery and knitting +wonderfully well, in addition to which she thoroughly understands how to +cook a good dinner. Fräulein Andrä generally cooked the dinner herself, +though she had servants, one of whom was a sort of cook. I remember that, +in more recent years, at the Hôtel Neckar at Heidelberg, I caught sight +of a pretty, graceful young girl wearing an apron going into the hôtel +kitchen, and, on my asking who she was, I was told that she was the +daughter of a count, and engaged to be married to a young count of high +family, but before her marriage she was required to learn cooking for six +months at this hôtel. + +There were at this time several English families whom I knew residing at +Bonn, among them being Captain and Mrs. Bean, who were living there to +educate their children, and to whose house I was often invited to tea. I +recollect once Mrs. Bean telling me and some other friends of hers that +she intended going to a masked ball dressed as a gipsy fortune-teller, +with packs of cards and bells sewn over her costume. On my arrival at the +ball, I had no difficulty in recognizing this dress, but the voice of the +wearer seemed very different from that of Mrs. Bean, and it transpired +that the fortune-teller was Captain Bean, who, as his wife found herself +unable to go to the ball, owing to a severe cold, had assumed her costume +and come instead. He intrigued a great many people who were there, +telling them their fortunes and more about themselves than they cared to +know, and got a good deal of amusement out of his impersonation, no one +but myself having the least idea who he was the whole time. + +There were also two sons of Peabody, the millionaire, at Bonn. The name +they were known by was George, and one of them was married and had two +very pretty daughters. The Georges were quite unaware who their father +was until after Peabody’s death, when they were angry at only being left +two thousand pounds a year each, the bulk of Peabody’s enormous fortune +having been bequeathed to charities. + +The Carnival was very amusing for young people, as everyone had to be +disguised and masked during the three days it lasted, and this custom +afforded a good deal of fun. Besides, every house was thrown open, and +we entered the houses of different people whom we knew with our masks +on, and partook of tea and cakes without being recognized. The students, +and, indeed, most young men, wore a blue blouse and white kid gloves, and +a mask, over which a blue cap with a red tassel was worn. Some of the +English girls at Bonn asked me to get up a ball, but only the bachelors +would have anything to do with it. I arranged with the proprietor of the +Rheineck Hotel that the ball should be given there, and he prepared his +large dining-room for the dancing and a room adjoining it for the supper. +The supper was to be provided at so much a head, wine being extra, as is +the general custom in Germany. The members of the committee wore red, +white and blue rosettes in their buttonholes. About sixty or seventy +people came to this ball, including the officers of the King’s Hussars, +who, of course, were present in uniform, and it went off very well, as it +was conducted on English lines, and was a much more free and easy affair +than the average German ball. The supper was a very passable one, and +a great deal of wine was consumed, particularly sparkling Moselle and +champagne, so the company was pretty merry. Miss Edith Horrocks was the +belle of the ball. She danced chiefly with a young Baron von Plessen, an +officer in the King’s Hussars, whom she afterwards married, though, as +there was not much money on either side, the young officer’s father, who +was a general of cavalry, at first made some difficulties. It was five +o’clock in the morning before the last guests had taken their departure. + +During the winter several small dances were given by different English +families, and these I generally attended. I also went to some German +balls, but, as there were no English present except myself, and they were +conducted in a very stiff and formal manner, I cannot say that I derived +much pleasure from them, apart from the dancing itself, of which I was +then very fond. + +At Von Sybel’s lectures I made the acquaintance of a young man named +Hans Delbrück, whom I liked very much indeed. He afterwards became a +university professor, and was imprisoned some years ago for having +expressed certain political views which were not in accordance with those +of the “All Highest.” He is now Professor of History at the University +of Berlin. Some little time before the War he was interviewed by the +correspondent of the _Daily Mail_, when he gave his opinion about the +possibility of a war between Great Britain and Germany. + +During the spring and summer there was very little going on at Bonn, +with the exception of steam-boat excursions up and down the Rhine. For +the residents, the winter is the season, but the climate at that time +of year is no better than in England; indeed, it is perhaps even worse +than in some English towns, as in the morning there are often thick fogs +rising from the river. Living at Bonn is cheap—cheaper than at Wiesbaden +or Frankfurt, to say nothing of Homburg, which is far more expensive and +much more pleasant in summer. But there are many worse places than Bonn +in the winter, so far as amusements are concerned. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + + The Countess Czerwinska—The Countess Broel Plater—Mlle. + de Laval—The Duchesse de Grammont—An Absent-Minded + Gentleman—Dusauty, the Fencing Master—The Marquis of + Anglesey—Charming Venezuelans—Miss Fanny Parnell + + +After finishing my studies at Bonn, I returned to Paris and rejoined my +parents. I was very happy in Paris, of which I have always been very +fond; but what I missed there chiefly at that time was the companionship +of young fellows of my own age. This reminds me of what Jim Doyne once +said to me when he came to visit me there:— + +“I should like Paris better than London, if I could only fill the place +with my English friends, and send some of these Frenchmen to London +instead.” + +I often experienced this very same feeling in Paris. It was very rarely +that I met a Frenchman of my own age that I cared for, as I did for some +English and Americans. Once at the Opéra Comique I happened to sit in +the stalls next a young Frenchman, who was very pleasant, and whom I got +to know well afterwards. This was the Vicomte Frédéric de Kilmaine, who, +though of Irish extraction, could not speak a single word of English. A +few days after I had made the Vicomte’s acquaintance I went for a drive +with him in his pretty victoria to the Bois de Boulogne, where we had +some refreshments at one of the cafés there before returning to Paris. +He often afterwards came to take me for a drive, and we became very good +friends. The Vicomte de Kilmaine, however, was an exception so far as +young Frenchmen were concerned, for I never became very intimate with any +of them. M. de Lesquier d’Attainville, grandson of the Prince de Rivoli, +Duc de Masséna, was a very nice fellow, and I liked him exceedingly; but +he was older than myself, and I did not see him very often except at the +different houses which I visited of an afternoon or evening. I also liked +Prince Jean Radziwill, who was a Pole, but I saw even less of him than I +did of M. de Lesquier d’Attainville, and, besides, he was much older than +I was, and a few years make a world of difference when one is very young. + +In after years, at Franzensbad, in Bohemia, I made the acquaintance of +the Countess Broel Plater and her son and daughter-in-law. The Countess, +by her first marriage, was the Princess Lubomirska, and Prince Jean +Radziwill was her son-in-law. The Countess was delighted to hear that I +had known Prince Jean so well in former years, and told me many things +about him. I often used to meet the Prince at Baroness Adelsdorfer’s +hôtel in Paris, and also at the Countess Czerwinska’s, _née_ Countess +Czajkowska, and I remember him telling me that he was best man at the +last-named lady’s marriage. It was a marriage of affection, and a son +was born a year or so later; but subsequently the pair had a quarrel +and refused to live together any more. The husband was afterwards quite +willing to make it up, but the Countess absolutely declined to do so, +though Prince Radziwill said he did everything he could to persuade +her to be reconciled. The Countess had the right to keep her little +son Stanislaus, who was a boy seven years old. At the time I knew her +in Paris, according to Russian law, in the event of a separation or a +divorce, the mother has always the custody of the sons, and the father +that of the daughters. This ought to be the rule in England, but, as we +are an eccentric nation, our laws quite naturally differ from those of +all others. + +The Countess Czerwinska was a very good-looking, fair young woman, of +about four-and-twenty. She was extremely well read and very intellectual, +and appeared perfectly to idolize her son. She was very fond of the poet +Mickiewicz, whose poems she often recited to me in Polish, afterwards +giving me her own translation of them in French. It was said that +she was employed by the Russian Government to find out political +secrets, and the salon at her hôtel in the Rue Chaillot was always +filled with men from the Ministère des Affaires Etrangères, like M. de +Lesquier d’Attainville, and also with representatives of the various +embassies.[25] She asked me once to procure her an invitation to a +private masked ball given by the millionaire Ménier, who had made his +fortune with the famous chocolate of that name, which I did, and escorted +her also to the Concours Hippique at the Palais de l’Industrie. + +The Countess Broel Plater was an old lady, who in her younger days had +been, she told me, lady-in-waiting to the Empress of Russia, consort of +Nicholas I. She also informed me that she had been brought up in the +Palace at St. Petersburg, and that she was really a daughter of the +Tsar, as everyone at the Court knew. One day, when we were taking coffee +and listening to the band in the Kur Park at Franzensbad, she piqued my +curiosity not a little by telling me that there were so many secrets +at the Russian Court, that to reveal them would make one’s blood run +cold, and that, to her knowledge, three cold-blooded murders had been +perpetrated at the Palace at Petersburg during the time she was living +there. She mentioned all the details of these crimes, which had been +committed at the instigation of those in power at that time, and even +the names of the victims, observing that at the time of their occurrence +she was pledged to secrecy, failing which, she would have been poisoned +herself. “No one,” she concluded, “can possibly realize, unless they have +lived, as I have, at the Russian Court, what fearful things have happened +there, simply in order to satisfy the caprice of a sovereign. Whether it +was the destruction of a girl, man or woman, it mattered not, so long +as the removal of the person served to conceal something which the Tsar +desired should not be made public.” + +While relating these events, the Countess became quite excited, and her +recital of them was so dramatic that one could almost imagine that she +had actually taken part in them. She gave me, in fact, quite a creepy +feeling, so that I was really relieved when she came to an end of her +accounts of these tragic episodes. She afterwards told me that she was +going to Nice with her son, whom I frequently met at Franzensbad with his +lovely young wife, and I used to sit in the Kur and talk to them. The +Countess Broel Plater had a charming villa, in which she had an aviary +containing all kinds of rare birds, and it was her delight to sit near +this aviary, admiring the gorgeous plumage of her beautiful birds and +listening to them sing, while she thought how fortunate she was to have +finished with the Russian Court and its dark tragedies. She told me that +she knew the family of Count Branicki at Nice, and also the Countess +Zamoyska, a very lovely woman, who had only very recently married, and +was at that time the greatest heiress in Poland. Liszt says of Polish +women: “_Ce qu’elles veulent, c’est l’attachement; ce qu’elles espèrent, +c’est le dévouement; ce qu’elles exigent, c’est l’honneur, le regret et +l’amour de la patrie, ce qui faisait dire à l’Empereur Nicholas I.: ‘Je +pourrais en finir des Polonais, si je venais à bout des Polonaises.’_” + +The Countess invited me to stay with her at Nice in the winter, if I +were able to go there, but, for some reason, I was prevented from doing +so. She took a great fancy to my little girl, Xenia, who was with me at +the time and was then seven years old, saying that she reminded her of a +near relative of her own, who also bore the Russian name of Xenia, which +increased not a little the Countess’s interest in my daughter. + +In Paris I always attended the “_jours_” of the Countess Dzialyńska, +sister of Prince Czartoryski. Her daughter, Countess Hélène Dzialyńska, +spoke English fluently, and told me she could learn any language in a +fortnight. She wrote a book in French against capital punishment, called +_Sur la peine de mort_, which had a large circulation. The Princess +Czartoryska was a royal princess, a Bourbon, and lived at the Maison +Lambert. Among their friends was a Swedish officer attached to the +Embassy, who was a frequent guest at their soirées. He was no longer +young, but always wore a corset and lavender kid gloves, and never took +his gloves off even to eat his supper. In his younger days he had been +dubbed, “_la fille du régiment_,” and this nickname still clung to +him. I met him there frequently, and he still considered himself quite +irresistible _auprès des dames_. + +I used to go about a good deal in Paris at this time with Cecil Slade, a +boy of fourteen, the son of a friend of my father, General Sir William +Slade. He usually called for me of an afternoon, and we took long walks +on the Boulevards. A girl friend whom I made was Mlle. Julie Piétri, +who was about fourteen. I often called at her father’s house in the +Champs-Elysées, and one day I said to Madame Piétri, before her daughter, +that I wondered why French girls were not allowed the same liberty with +boys which English girls enjoyed. Madame Piétri answered that it might +be all right with English girls, but if French ones were allowed to be +alone with gentlemen, the consequences might be disastrous, as French +girls could not control their feelings. I thought this a strange thing +to say before her daughter, and I observed that Mlle. Julie looked +rather confused at her mother’s remark and blushed, but she did not say +anything in reply. About this time, I made the acquaintance of a young +girl called Isabelle, about whom I have already written in “Society +Recollections in Paris and Vienna.” Isabelle was allowed more freedom +than Mlle. Piétri, and was not always with her mother, and I found out +that Madame Piétri may have been right in her conjectures. Nevertheless, +I cannot help thinking that French girls are treated rather too severely +in this respect, and that if they were permitted a little more liberty, +they would not suffer so much as their mothers suppose. + +In Paris, at this time, I had many friends among girls, but few among +young fellows of my own age. I cannot say that I was in love with any of +the former; indeed, I felt quite indifferent towards them. I certainly +admired Isabelle very much at first, but only for a time, and was almost +glad when our flirtation came to an end. Such, however, is the perversity +of human nature, that no sooner had I lost her than I began to regret +her. After some weeks had passed I saw her again, when I believed that +she had deceived me with an American, and was not worthy of my regret. +She informed me that this American had made her certain proposals, which +she had refused; but I had a strong suspicion that this was not the case, +and that her admirer had afterwards left Paris. I never met her again. +She suddenly disappeared, and, though I was very curious to learn what +had become of her, I was never able to find out. She vanished like some +fantastic apparition, leaving no trace whatever behind, or like a pebble +cast into the water, which leaves only a momentary impression on the +surface to indicate the spot where it has disappeared. + +Some time afterwards I made the acquaintance of a Mlle. de Laval, who was +poor, but of a very noble family. Her ancestors had been Ducs de Laval, +and she was related to some of the old noblesse of the time of Louis XVI. +They had almost all been guillotined, and but few members of her family +remained. She frequently told me stories about her ancestors, some of +whom had been reduced to poverty. Mlle. de Laval was an intimate friend +of a Mlle. Gabrielle de Tercin, a very pretty actress, who played at the +Porte Saint-Martin Theatre. I was a good deal in the company of these +girls, and used often to sup with them after the theatre. Mlle. de Tercin +had a friend who was very wealthy, and had furnished a fine _appartement_ +for her, to which I sometimes went with Mlle. de Laval. + +Another acquaintance of mine was a certain baroness, the widow of an +attaché in Paris. She was at one time considered a very lovely woman, and +certainly possessed very fine auburn hair and a very good complexion. She +had a pretty hôtel in the Rue Lord Byron, where she received a great many +visitors in the evening, chiefly of the sterner sex. She told me once +that the old Duc de Persigny had called upon her when she was alone and +handed her an envelope. + +“_Qu’est-ce que c’est que cela?_” she asked. + +To which he replied in trembling tones:— + +“_Oh, Madame, ce n’est qu’une petite fleur, rien qu’une petite fleur ... +que je viens vous offrir._” + +She opened the envelope and found that it contained fourteen thousand +francs in banknotes. She at once threw the notes in the ducal donor’s +face, saying:— + +“_Sortez, Monsieur, à l’instant de chez moi; je ne veux ni de vous ni de +votre petite fleur non plus._” + +The Duke entreated her to listen to him, but she only added:— + +“_Entendez-vous, je veux que vous sortiez d’ici._” + +Whereupon he withdrew, and she never set eyes on him again, so she told +me. I met her years afterwards in Vienna, when she was not so rich, and, +though nearly sixty, was dressed more like sixteen and painted up to her +eyes. She told me that Austrians were not so generous as Frenchmen, but +that she preferred Englishmen to all others. She was now inclined to +regret her treatment of the Duc de Persigny, though she laughed at the +recollection of it still. Prince Rudolf von Liechtenstein called upon her +in Vienna and sent her some beautiful flowers, when she remarked to me:— + +“To think that I have to content myself in Vienna with flowers! But the +Austrians are all so terribly mean.” + +Amongst my mother’s friends in Paris society at this time was Madame +Leleu, whom she saw very frequently. Madame Leleu was a widow, and lived +in a large _appartement_ close to the Madeleine. When her husband was +alive, she was very fond of dining with him at different restaurants, +but since his death she had lived very quietly, and merely invited a +few friends like ourselves to tea with her at five o’clock. Before her +marriage she had been a Miss Beauclerk, and the Duke of St. Albans was +her grandfather. She had at one time been engaged to Lord Cantelupe, but +on her wedding day, while she was actually waiting in her bridal dress at +the altar, she was informed that Lord Cantelupe had died quite suddenly. +She told me about this sad event herself one day when she was visiting +her aunt, Mrs. Healey, in the Rue d’Albe, but I don’t remember what was +the cause of Lord Cantelupe’s death. + +My mother also saw a good deal of the Duchesse de Grammont, who was a +daughter of The MacKinnon of MacKinnon. She was very clever, though +somewhat stiff in her manner, and while her husband was living gave some +very smart dinner-parties. The Duchess had a fine house at Folkestone, a +place of which she was very fond; but after her husband’s death she would +sometimes let this house for the season at forty guineas a week. Her +son, the present Duc de Grammont, married a daughter of Baron James de +Rothschild, one of the Paris family of that name. The Hon. Mrs. Graves, +a first cousin of the Duchess, who always stayed with her when in Paris, +was a very great friend of my mother, and often dined with us in the Rue +d’Albe. + +The Duchesse de Caracciolo, an American by birth, who was remarkably +good-looking and very “_spirituelle_,” was a great deal in Paris at this +time, and frequently came to see my mother, who was very fond of her. My +mother always told me that the Duchess was just the kind of lady I should +have admired; but, as Fate would have it, I was not fortunate enough to +meet her in Paris. + +Mrs. Goldsmid, a Roman Catholic and the daughter of a baronet, who lived +with her son in the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, was also a friend of +my parents, and she was very intimate with the Duchesse de Grammont, +whom, with her sons, the Duc de Guiche and the Comte de Grammont, I met +sometimes of an evening at her house. I met them more frequently after +Mrs. Goldsmid’s son married a very beautiful English girl, when the +Duchess frequently dined there. After dinner we used to play cards, of +which Goldsmid was very fond. He was at one time a great friend of my +father, and they used to attend races together near Paris. He and his +mother knew all the best people in the Faubourg Saint-Germain, as well as +in the American colony. The son, before his marriage, which ended most +disastrously for the wife, chiefly frequented the society of Americans, +while his mother, who was a most intelligent woman, was fonder of the +French. The conversation at their house, when guests happened to be +present, was always carried on in French, as both mother and son spoke +the language perfectly. + +One day, when we were walking in the Champs-Elysées, my father pointed +a man out to me whom, he said, he would not care to know at any price. +He was a tall, well-built, fine-looking man, with a long fair beard. His +name was Baron de Malortie, and he was a first cousin of Bismarck. I +asked my father why he would not care to know him, to which he replied:— + +“Because he is always fighting duels; he has fought about thirty in +Paris, and has always killed or wounded his adversary.” + +Some months later, I happened to be again in the Champs-Elysées, when +I saw my father in the distance, walking arm-in-arm with a man whom I +thought resembled Malortie. In the evening I asked him with whom he was +walking in so friendly a fashion in the Champs-Elysées that afternoon. + +“It was Malortie,” he answered. “He is such a nice fellow; I don’t know +anyone I like better!” + +On one occasion my father was walking with two friends of his in Paris, +when he turned to one of them, a Mr. Segrave, and said:— + +“I don’t think you know my friend....” + +When the gentleman addressed promptly replied in a loud voice:— + +“No, and I have no wish to know him either.” + +My father told me that ever since then he had avoided introducing men to +each other, as one never knew whether they had not had some quarrel, as +was the case in this instance. + +[Illustration: The Author’s Father. + +[_To face p. 144._] + +My father was subject to frequent fits of absent-mindedness, and I +recollect once in Paris telling him a long story, and asking his opinion +from time to time. He answered merely in monosyllables, and when I came +to the end, and inquired what conclusion he had arrived at about the +whole affair, he observed:— + +“I was not listening to what you said, and have not the faintest idea +what you were telling me about.” + +Once, in Paris, he invited some people to dine at our house, but forgot +to tell my mother about it, so that when the guests arrived, there was +no dinner prepared for them, and everything had to be sent for from a +restaurant, which, of course, entailed great delay. On another occasion, +there were seven or eight people dining with us, amongst whom was General +Sir John Douglas, Lady Elizabeth Douglas, Captain and Mrs. Berkeley, the +Marquise Brian de Bois-Guilbert and Mrs. Joe Riggs. When the soup, which +my father was supposed to serve, was put on the table, he was so engaged +in conversation with Lady Elizabeth Douglas, that he unconsciously helped +himself to it, and began calmly to eat, talking all the while. My mother, +having drawn Captain Berkeley’s attention to what the host was doing, the +latter said, laughing:— + +“I say, old fellow, I hope you are enjoying the soup, but all this time +you are keeping us waiting, and we should like to enjoy it as well.” + +My father then realized what he had done, apologized and said:— + +“Upon my word, I am so absent-minded that I did not know what I was +doing.” + +In later years, while in India, I made the acquaintance of the Vicomte +Arthur d’Assailly, and, meeting him afterwards in Paris, was invited to +call upon him at his hôtel in the Rue Las Cases. I happened to mention +this to my father, when he told me that I should be careful about the +people whom I called on, as there were so many adventurers in Paris. Some +months later, I went with my father to a club, where someone slapped +him on the back, and, to my great surprise, it was none other than +d’Assailly. My father then told me that he had known him for years, and +that he was an excellent fellow, but that he must have been thinking of +something else when I asked whether I should call on him, and so did +not catch the name I had mentioned, and thought I had come across some +adventurer or other. + +The Baroness Adelsdorfer gave my father one day, when he happened to +call upon her, a very important letter to post, which he promised to put +into the letter-box as he was going out. She told him that she wanted +an immediate answer to this letter, so that he was to post it at once. +He carried this letter about with him for a whole week, when, in my +presence, he suddenly discovered it in his pocket. On his returning to +the Baroness, she asked him about this letter, to which she was still +awaiting a reply. + +“Oh! I posted it all right, depend upon it,” he replied, laughing. “There +has been some delay somewhere.” + +The Baroness, however, knew him of old, and exclaimed:— + +“I know you must have forgotten to post it; I should not be surprised if +you still have it in your pocket.” + +I met the Baroness Adelsdorfer once at Longchamps, near the entrance +to the Grand Stand, just before the races began, when, stepping out of +her carriage—a very fine turn-out—she came up to me very excitedly, and +exclaimed:— + +“It is really too bad of your father. I have been waiting here for him +for half an hour, as he promised to get me a ticket for the Jockey Club +Stand, and I don’t see the least sign of him.” + +My father, as a matter of fact, had forgotten all about the poor +Baroness, and did not put in an appearance at Longchamps that day. +However, the lady fortunately managed to get the ticket she wanted from +some other member of the club. + +At this time, my father used to be always with Captain Lennox Berkeley +(afterwards Earl of Berkeley), and I recollect his saying to me on +several occasions:— + +“Whenever I have a difficult business letter to write, I always ask +Berkeley’s advice. I never met anyone who could write such a good +business letter as he can.” + +Once, when Berkeley was away from Paris, he said to me: + +“I wish Berkeley were here; I have such a bothering letter to write and +he could do it so well for me.” + +I offered to try my hand at this letter, and composed one which he said +would answer the purpose. But I discovered afterwards that he had torn it +up, and, later, he admitted having done so, saying:— + +“You cannot write like Berkeley; I don’t know anybody else who can.” + +While on the subject of letter-writing, I may mention that my mother +frequently expressed regret that she had not kept the letters written to +her by her aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, observing that they were so well +written and so beautifully expressed that they were quite equal in every +respect to those of Madame de Sévigné. + +I took lessons in fencing at this time from Dusauty, who had been in +the “Cent Gardes” during the Empire, though Sir Edward Cunninghame, a +well-known duellist in Paris, had advised my learning from Pons, who had +been his instructor. I liked the way Dusauty taught me very much. He was +one of the finest fencers whom I had ever seen, and taught some of the +most redoubtable duellists, who often came to fence with him just before +a duel. I fenced with some of them when Dusauty happened to be engaged +in giving another lesson, which was a great pleasure to me. Dusauty was +quite young, only seven-and-twenty, a very fine-looking, dark man, six +feet, two inches in height. Unhappily, he died not long afterwards. His +death, it was said, was attributable to the constant shouting and the +amount of dust which he was obliged to inhale while engaged in giving +his fencing lessons, which caused him to contract the lung disease which +proved fatal. I learned to fence with both hands, and preferred fencing +with my left hand to my right. In after years, I lost the use of my right +arm, and Colonel Crawley, an Old Etonian, who was then in my regiment, +though he afterwards exchanged into the Coldstream Guards, and with whom +I often used to fence, remarked that it seemed as though I had foreseen +that I should one day lose the use of that arm. + +When Captain Berkeley went to live at Fontainebleau with his wife and +family, my father was mostly with Lord Henry Paget, who afterwards +became Marquis of Anglesey. Lord Henry’s only son, who, when his father +succeeded to the marquisate, became Earl of Uxbridge, was a charming +little boy, with very pleasing manners, who was generally dressed as a +British sailor. He lived at this time almost entirely with the Boyds, +and his aunt, Mrs. Yorke, had charge of him until he went to Eton. My +father and I used frequently to meet him in the Champs-Elysées with his +governess, when he would always run up to us to have a chat. His father, +the Marquis of Anglesey, was very fond of horses, as was my father, and +their tastes were pretty much the same. They were both greatly attached +to Paris, though neither of them could really speak French, their +knowledge of which was confined to a few words. Lord Anglesey, indeed, +never even tried to speak the language, and avoided French people who +could not talk English. My father, on the other hand, rather liked to +meet them, and contrived somehow to make himself understood. The racing +in the neighbourhood of Paris was a great attraction to both Lord +Anglesey and my father, but I do not think the former ever made a bet. I +cannot say the same for the latter, who sometimes betted rather heavily. +Lord Anglesey was particularly fond of dining at restaurants, where he +and my father in later years often dined together, sometimes inviting +other friends. After dinner, as they both detested theatres, they played +billiards, of which they were very fond, as they both played a very good +game. Neither of them cared for balls and parties, and they both, as a +rule, hated all kinds of ceremony. After dinner they liked to smoke a +pipe, though they were at times fond of a good Havana cigar. This was +somewhat difficult to procure in Paris, but M. de Francisco-Martin, of +the Guatemala Legation, would often make my father a present of a box +of cigars, which he received direct from Havana free of any duty, as he +belonged to the Corps Diplomatique. The society which they preferred +was that which attached little importance to matters of etiquette and +ceremonial, except on certain occasions, as, for instance, when Lord +Lyons, the British Ambassador, dined with Lord Anglesey. Then everything +was carried to the other extreme, the Marquis priding himself on making +a very great display in the way of silver plate and beautiful flowers, +while the very best dinner which Madame Chevet, of the Palais-Royal, +could supply, together with the choicest wines and liqueurs, was +provided. An American lady, whom the Marquis admired very much, was +usually invited to preside and entertain the Ambassador. + +There was an Englishman in Paris whose name was Field, and at one time +Lord Anglesey was on rather friendly terms with him; but one day the +Marquis told my father that he gave himself airs, so that he intended +to drop his acquaintance. Field was a very short, dark, clean-shaven +man, more like an American than an Englishman. He used to receive every +afternoon, when he was with the Marquis, my father and myself, various +lavender-coloured notes, highly perfumed, on receiving which he would +exclaim: + +“Another letter from —— ——!” mentioning the name of a celebrated actress. + +I asked him once, when he had given me the note to read, if she often +wrote to him in that style, to which he replied that sometimes he +received such notes from her every hour in the day. After Lord Anglesey +had quarrelled with him I never met him again in Paris. I think he must +have gone away, or perhaps he used to avoid the spot in the Champs +Elysées where the Marquis and my father generally sat from five to six in +the afternoon, to watch the carriages go by. + +Lord Anglesey occupied a very fine _appartement_ in the Avenue Kléber, +which he rented when he was still Lord Henry Paget. I recollect my father +and I meeting him in the Champs-Elysées just after his half-brother’s +death, when the former congratulated him on having succeeded to the +title, and the new Marquis said:— + +“I shall only have about £80,000 a year at present, I think, but perhaps +more later, as my brother was heavily insured.” + +Some days afterwards, my father asked him whether he intended to put his +servants into powder, when he replied:— + +“I am afraid I can’t afford that yet, as I should have to keep at least +twelve footmen, six in powder, and the other six to relieve them; but +later on I may be able to manage it; at least, I hope so.” + +The windows of Lord Anglesey’s _appartement_ facing the street were +furnished with very conspicuous pink-coloured blinds, adorned on the +outside with very large coronets, which caused a good deal of comment. +I remember asking Lord Conyers, who was a friend of the Marquis, why +the latter was so fond of displaying these large coronets on almost +everything he used, and that Lord Conyers answered that Lord Anglesey +had inherited this taste, which was a purely French one, from the French +Kings, Louis XIV. and Louis XV., to whom his ancestors were related, but +that in other respects his habits and ways were entirely English. + +Folliot Duff and his wife and daughters were then living in Paris. He +was a brother of Billy Duff, whose widow also resided there. Folliot +Duff was a good boxer, and in Paris he conceived a great passion for +fencing. I often called on the Duffs, when he invariably used to turn the +conversation to his favourite hobby. He was a very agreeable man, but I +never remember seeing him without his giving me a lecture on fencing, or +occasionally, by way of a change, on boxing. Mrs. Folliot Duff was a very +great friend of my mother, and, after her husband’s death, she used often +to come and dine with us. + +M. de Francisco-Martin, son of the Minister for Guatemala, and +brother-in-law of the Marquis de San Carlos, formerly Spanish Ambassador +in Paris, was also a great friend of the Duffs. He lived in a very fine +hôtel in the Rue Fortin, which he sold to the Marquis of Anglesey for +£40,000. The latter, however, only lived there a month with his last +wife. Francisco-Martin often used to pay us a visit of an evening, when +his conversation ran mainly on horses and racing, for which he shared my +father’s partiality. + +I used occasionally to visit the daughters of the Minister for Venezuela, +who lived in a very fine _appartement_ on the Avenue d’Iéna. One of them, +who was then about sixteen, was an exceedingly pretty girl, with blue +eyes, jet black hair, small but beautiful features, and very white teeth, +and the way in which she spoke Spanish was charming to listen to, so soft +did it sound. I often went to her _appartement_, when she would invite +me to take tea, and sometimes I found her alone, as her sister, who was +engaged to be married, was generally with her _fiancé_. The younger +sister, whose name was Mercèdes, made me speak Spanish to her at times; +at others we spoke French, and the time I spent with her seemed to pass +very quickly—too quickly, indeed, to please me. + +I recollect calling one day on Madame de Passy and meeting there the +Marchioness de Peñafiel, whose husband afterwards succeeded the Count de +San Miguel as Portuguese Minister in Paris. The Marchioness was wearing +that day a very pretty hat covered with white flowers, for which, she +told Madame de Passy, she had just given 300 francs. As she was on the +point of leaving, it began to rain, and although the Marchioness’s +gorgeous equipage was waiting at the door for her, she was so fearful +lest her mew hat should be spoiled, that, with Madame de Passy’s help, +she covered it entirely over with a lace handkerchief, and then advanced +bravely to her carriage, escorted by a footman, holding an umbrella over +her head. The Marchioness de Peñafiel was a great friend of the Minister +for Venezuela and his lovely daughters, of whom I have just spoken. + +One day, when I happened to be visiting the Shards, who lived in the +same house as Madame de Passy, I was telling the second daughter, Sophie +Shard, a good-looking young girl, what trouble I had to get a good valet, +when she said:— + +“Why don’t you take a pretty girl and dress her in a page’s costume? I +am sure she would suit you much better than a boy. I should do this if +I were you, and I know you will be grateful to me for the advice I have +given you, if you only follow it.” + +I thought her idea, which reminded me of Goethe’s Wilhelm Meister, +excellent, but, as I was not my own master, I could not quite see my way +to carry it out. + +About this time, I made the acquaintance of Madame Saba, who lived in +the same _appartement_ as Mlle. Daram, of the Grand Opéra. The latter +was a very pretty girl, with an exquisite figure, who possessed a fine +contralto voice. She made it a rule to get up at seven o’clock every +morning to practice her singing, and never broke it. She always played +page’s parts, for which she was paid 18,000 francs a year, and, though +she had a friend, a French marquis, who had about £16,000 a year, and +wanted her to give up the stage, she refused to do so, saying that she +wished to be quite independent. The _appartement_ in which these two +ladies lived was furnished with every comfort and convenience one could +possibly wish for, including a good library; and one day when they +happened to be out when I called, I was given Labiche’s plays to read to +amuse me until their return. + +There was an Irish lady residing in Paris, who used to give a dance +once a fortnight during the winter. I recollect that amongst her guests +on one occasion was a French countess, who wore a gown which was very +_décolletée_ indeed, so much so that several English ladies commented +upon it. The lady of the house mentioned this to a young French count, +who observed:— + +“_On aime à voir ces choses, mais on n’aime pas qu’on vous les fasse +voir._” Saying which, he borrowed a shawl from his hostess, and, stepping +up to the countess, put it over her shoulders, telling her that all the +ladies were so much afraid lest she should take cold. The countess, who +was watching a game of whist at the time, thanked him for the attention +without taking her eyes off the cards, and then pulled the shawl tighter +round her shoulders. + +Miss Fanny Parnell, who was half Irish and half American, was then one of +the loveliest girls in Paris. She was also one of the best dressed and +most attractive in every way. She was a severe critic of her own sex, +and her opinion of English girls was not a high one. On one occasion she +wrote to me:— + +“_I think, as you do, that English girls are, many of them, very fast. +They seem to be so anxious to get rid of their reputation for being dull +and stiff that they set no bounds to their liveliness._” + +On another occasion, when I told her that I was going to Folkestone, she +observed: + +“The girls in Kent, what I saw of them, were each one uglier than the +other. So your fate is, I fear, not to be envied, knowing as I do your +strong _penchant_ for pretty faces.” + +Miss Fanny Parnell died very young, quite in the flower of her youth, in +the United States; but the report I read in a newspaper to the effect +that Mrs. Parnell died there afterwards in poverty was, I am pleased to +say, incorrect, for her daughter, Mrs. Paget, informed me some years ago +that when Mrs. Parnell died she was with her in Ireland, and that she was +surrounded by every possible luxury. + +Miss Minnie Warren, an American from Boston, who afterwards married a +Vanderbilt, was one of the loveliest young girls I ever met. She was +then living with her parents in an hôtel on the Boulevard Haussmann, +and I used frequently to meet her at parties and balls given by wealthy +Americans. One afternoon I went to tea at her house, as I always did +by invitation two or three times a week, and found her father sitting +down reading _The Times_. He never so much as looked at me, but went on +reading, while I sat silent and feeling far from comfortable, until Mrs. +Warren came in and said:— + +“I suppose you have come to see my daughters; they will be home soon.” + +I felt very much relieved when, a few minutes after, I was shown into the +charming daughters’ salon, where I felt, as I always did, “_au septième +ciel_.” + +Another remarkably pretty girl whom I knew was Mlle. Waterlot, whose +acquaintance I made through the Marquise Brian de Bois Guilbert. I +introduced her to Miss Parnell, as she wanted to go to some American +balls. She found, however, her inability to speak English a great +drawback at these functions, as American young men did not care to talk +French, which entailed too much mental exertion to please them. Mlle. +Waterlot married some time afterwards the Comte de Lesseps, a son of the +famous engineer of the Suez Canal. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + + Captain Howard Vyse—An Anecdote of Paganini—New Hats for Old + Ones—Albert Bingham—Baron Alphonse de Rothschild—Madame Alice + Kernave—Gambetta + + +During the winter months, I was very fond of going on Sundays to +Pasdeloup’s concerts, which were held in the Cirque d’Hiver. One Sunday, +I met the Vicomte d’Assailly there, who told me that he preferred these +concerts to those at the Conservatoire, as at the latter people did not +cease to talk the whole time, which was very trying for those who, like +himself, really cared for music. He was passionately fond of it. On +one occasion, I went to Pasdeloup’s concert with Captain Howard Vyse, +formerly of the “Blues,” an Old Etonian, and a friend of my father, who +was nicknamed “Punch.” He was placed in a seat near the kettledrums, +while I sat some little distance away, as there were very few vacant +seats. After the concert I asked Vyse how he had enjoyed it, when he told +me that he had never slept better in his life, and had not once heard +the kettledrums. He could speak very little French, but he thoroughly +enjoyed going to the Palais-Royal Theatre, and would often tell me of a +play there which was worth seeing, such as _le Réveillon_, by Meilhac and +Halévy, of which he related to me the plot. He was always very lively, +and sometimes rather amusing, and at times he would invite himself to +dine with us, where he was always very welcome. Once, for some reason or +other, my mother did not want him to stay to dinner, and told him that +she was afraid she had nothing to give him. However, he asked her what +there was, and, on being told, said:— + +“If I had ordered the dinner myself, I could not have anything I like +better.” + +So he remained and dined with us, notwithstanding the excuses my mother +had made for the dinner. My father introduced him to the late Lady Louisa +Meux, sister of the Marquis of Ailesbury, who lived in quite a palace in +the Bois de Boulogne, and had very smart “turn-outs.” She used to give +very good dinners and once invited Howard Vyse to dine with her. Whenever +afterwards my father wanted to annoy him, he would say that he was sure +that Lady Louisa Meux would be pleased to see him at dinner. To which +Vyse would answer angrily:— + +“However badly I might want a dinner, I would not go there for anything.” + +The explanation of this was a secret between my father and Howard Vyse, +and evidently an amusing one, since they always laughed heartily over it. + +Lady Louisa Meux was very rich and highly eccentric. Her husband was in a +lunatic asylum, and she herself was very queer at times. I never knew her +myself, but my father said she occasionally reminded him of a sister of +his, whom he also considered rather eccentric. + +Signor Campobello, whose real name was Campbell, used to sing at a house +to which I was sometimes invited of an afternoon. One day, when he had +just sung a song, the lady of the house went up to him and asked him, in +my hearing, to sing again. He replied: + +“You are aware of my charges—five hundred francs each song.” To which she +rejoined:— + +“I am perfectly well aware of it.” + +Campobello’s wife was Madame Sinico, who was also an operatic singer and +often sang at Covent Garden. + +The Marquise Brian de Bois-Guilbert, a very pretty and +distinguished-looking woman, when dining with us one evening, happened +to remark how badly professional singers were treated by some people, +and related a story of a man and his wife who were invited to dinner by +some rich people in Paris on purpose to avoid paying them for singing +afterwards. However, after these two singers had had their dinner, they +put a louis each on their plates in payment for it, and immediately +afterwards left the house, much to the disgust and disappointment of +their host and hostess, who had invited them expressly to sing to the +other guests. The Marquise herself sang most beautifully and quite like a +professional, having learned of the celebrated Professor Duprez (formerly +of the Grand Opéra), one of whose very best pupils she was; and when she +did so, always insisted that there should be no talking in the room, +otherwise she would leave off singing at once. This was no idle threat, +as I once saw her carry it out myself. + +Captain Berkeley, who was very fond of hearing her sing, would often +remark that English people, as a rule, always begin to talk when anyone +sings or plays, and he once told a story, which, though I have no doubt +it is a very old one, I may as well repeat, for the benefit of those +unacquainted with it: + +On one occasion, when Paganini was playing a violin solo, and had reached +the most pathetic part, he was suddenly interrupted by a certain English +peer, who touched his arm and said:— + +“_Pardon, Monsieur, mais j’ai besoin de causer avec une dame._” + +It appeared that, in order to reach the lady in question, the Englishman +had to pass Paganini, and the bow of the violin happened to be in his way. + +“_Si ce ri est pas vrai, c’est très bien trouvé_,” as Captain Berkeley +observed at the time he told me the story. Let us hope that the lady was +worthy of the interruption. Possibly she was a Venus, in which case there +may have been some excuse for this infatuated peer, whoever he may have +been. + +The Marquise de Brian de Bois-Guilbert used to pay frequent visits to +the Duchesse d’Abrantès at her fine Château de Bailleul, where the +latter’s sister-in-law, the Comtesse de Faverney, painted a portrait of +the Marquise, which she showed me. It was a very fine one, and, unlike +most amateur productions, really resembled the original. The Duchesse +d’Abrantès was then a lovely young blonde, and one of the best portraits +that I ever saw of her was one which she gave to the Marquise. She was +taken in her garden, standing by a favourite horse, with her arm round +the animal’s neck. + +In reference to the Duchesse d’Abrantès, the Marquise once observed, in +the course of a letter to me:— + + “_Her whole family is greatly respected at Versailles, not only + because it is illustrious, but because it is very pious and + very charitable. What kindness of heart, perfect courtesy, and + exquisite and truly Christian benevolence do we find in these + illustrious families! I repeat: nothing is comparable to the + courtesy and perfect breeding of the French nobility, which is + doubly kind when one happens to have fallen into misfortune. + Its soul is as lofty as its rank is elevated; its heart is + excellent. The greatest nobility resides at Versailles, for it + is in greater security there than anywhere else._” + +And she added: + + “_On m’a surnommée ici la rose blanche, puis la blanche + apparition, et j’ai de grand succès de beauté, distinction, + chose rare parmi les femmes; pour mon talent, on est en + extase._” + +I went, in later years, to a very smart ball given by the Marquise de +Blocqueville, at which I met the Comtesse de la Taille des Essarts and +her daughter Gabrielle. The latter, with whom I danced, was a fair girl, +who afterwards married the Marquis de Gabriac. I took the Comtesse, who +was an English lady and a friend of my mother’s, in to supper. When I +left the ball, I looked for my opera-hat, which was quite new, and found +a very old one in its place. They told me at the _vestiaire_ that they +thought the Marquis de Rey had taken mine. I accordingly sent him the hat +with a note, asking the return of mine, and received an answer, saying +that he was not the person who had left this old hat, as his was quite +new, and he would have no particular desire to exchange it. + + “_Je regrette_,” he wrote, “_d’avoir à vous annoncer que le + chapeau que vous m’avez fait remettre hier n’est pas à moi; + l’échange que vous supposez n’est pas de mon fait; MON chapeau + étant entre mes mains.... Ayez donc la bonté de le faire + reprendre chez mon concierge, numéro 11, rue des Saints-Pères, + etc., etc._” + +At the same time, the Marquis expressed the hope that I should find my +own hat, but this I never did. + +The above incident reminds me of a story I heard about General Ronald +Lane, of the Rifle Brigade, who was at one time Equerry to the Duke of +Connaught. The gallant officer in question went, many years ago, to a +ball in London, wearing a perfectly new hat, and, on leaving, found, as I +had done, an old one in its place. He must evidently have determined to +pay someone out for the loss of his hat, for the next time he went to a +ball, which he did soon afterwards, he took this old hat with him, and, +leaving the house early, had time to select the newest of the hats in the +cloak-room and one that fitted him perfectly. + +“You can see for yourself,” said he to the attendant, “that this old hat +can’t possibly belong to me. I must look for it, and I shall soon find +it.” + +In this way, he secured an almost better hat than the one he had lost, +and, of course, he left the old hat in its place. + +At a ball given by an American in Paris, the celebrated composer +Waldteufel was conducting one of his own very delightful waltzes, which +he used at times to play in rather slow time, putting always a great deal +of expression into them, when the master of the house came up to him and +asked if he would mind playing the waltz a trifle faster, since it would +suit the dancers better. Waldteufel, whose _amour-propre_ was wounded by +this request, immediately afterwards struck up the “Dead March in Saul,” +and since then no one dared to interfere with him when he was conducting +his orchestra, which he did at all the principal balls, though his fee +was £150 for the night. It was very interesting to watch him conduct his +orchestra, which was excellent, though by no means numerous. At times, he +played the violin and led the orchestra somewhat in the manner of Edward +Strauss, though he went through more peculiar movements with his arms +and legs than even the latter does. Edward Strauss always seems to dance +himself when he conducts his orchestra and plays waltzes and polkas, +and looks pleasant; but Waldteufel always looked furious. I remember at +balls, when I was dancing a cotillion or a waltz, I used to be rather +afraid of him, as one never knew at any time what eccentricity he might +not be prompted to indulge in. Sometimes, he would stop his orchestra +in the middle of a dance; at others, he would play an overture when you +were expecting a waltz. In fact, with him one had to be prepared for +anything. But the Americans in Paris were such beautiful dancers that +these eccentricities rather pleased them, and, besides, they could dance +to almost any _tempo._ + +The Marquis de Grandmaison used often to dine with us in the Rue d’Albe. +He was a very strongly-built, clean-shaven man, and wore his hair very +short; so much so, indeed, that one day, when he had given a photograph +of himself to my father, the latter said:— + +“You look, my dear fellow, as if you had undergone ten years’ penal +servitude!” + +Grandmaison laughed, as he always enjoyed a joke, even when it was at his +own expense. Generally, he would retaliate, and my father and he used to +make fun of one another. The Marquis, who belonged to one of the noblest +families in France, and was a very wealthy man, owned a beautiful hôtel +in Paris. He had lived in the United States and spoke English like an +American. He was very fond of practical jokes, and would make us all +laugh at the tricks he had played on various people. My mother rather +liked him, but at times he was almost too noisy; in fact, very like a +schoolboy, as he was up to all kinds of fun. He belonged to the Jockey +Club, and generally drove a fine four-in-hand to the races at Longchamps, +and he was very fond of racing. + +The Marquis de Bois-Hébert, the husband of the well-known author, used +also to drive a very fine four-in-hand in Paris at this time. I knew him +very well and have mentioned him in my book, “Society Recollections in +Paris and Vienna.” + +The late Hon. Albert Bingham, brother of Lord Clanmorris, who drew the +pictures in Lady Brassey’s well-known book, used often to dine with +us in the Rue d’Albe, and sometimes brought with him a little pug-dog +called Félice, who was a great favourite, particularly with the ladies. +Bingham was a very pleasant man, with plenty of conversation, and was +most popular in Paris. He was very nice-looking and a good draughtsman, +besides being clever in other ways. I remember him getting me an +invitation to dine with the Naylor-Leylands, who had a fine hôtel in the +Avenue d’Antin, in which the kitchen was at the top of the house. The +Naylor-Leylands had as their secretary a man who had formerly been a +captain in the Rifle Brigade. I was at Eton with Albert Bingham’s nephew, +Lord Clanmorris, who entered the Rifle Brigade. I met him afterwards in +town and also in Paris. He married soon after the last time I saw him. He +has recently died. + +The Piétris sometimes came to see us in the Rue d’Albe, and, on the +marriage of the eldest daughter, Marie, I was invited to the wedding, +at which the two younger sisters acted as bridesmaids, and also to the +ball given just before the married couple started on their honeymoon. +About two hundred people were present at this ball, and the supper was +an excellent one, with champagne. I danced with Mlle. Julie Piétri, who +was a beautiful dancer, and looked very pretty that evening in a dress of +pink tulle, with pearls as ornaments. + +When Captain Hubert de Burgh, formerly of the 11th Hussars, who was an +Old Etonian and a nephew of the Earl of Cardigan, dined with us, as he +often did, my mother always said that she felt sure that he would break +a wine-glass; and he invariably did so. This was previous to his being +attacked by the sad spinal complaint from which he died. One day, in +the Champs-Elysées, he fell in love at sight with a German lady whom my +father knew, and she told him that she had also fallen in love with de +Burgh. My father introduced them to each other, and de Burgh afterwards +left the lady his entire fortune. At one time my father always went with +him to the different race-meetings round Paris. + +In later years, Mr. Tugwell, a banker from Bath, who was on a visit to +Paris, was very anxious to see Ferrières, the magnificent country-seat +of the late Baron Alphonse de Rothschild. Accordingly, having obtained +permission from the Baron himself, who happened to be in Paris at the +time, we went there by train. + +Ferrières is one of the most beautiful properties in the world, and +enjoys quite a European reputation for its magnificence. We went all over +the château itself, entering nearly every room. On our arrival at the top +of the house, I recollect seeing some very elaborate coffins, covered +with gold, standing up against the outside walls of certain rooms. The +servant who showed us over the house explained to us about these coffins, +and said whose they were; but I was only too pleased to go down the +staircase again and see them no more. The servant showed us some of the +beautiful _objets d’art_ and paintings which adorned the walls, and told +us that the house contained _objets d’art_ to the value of nearly one +hundred million francs. Baron Alphonse was the wealthiest of all the +Rothschilds, and all the most remarkable _objets d’art_ which had been +amassed by the family in years gone by had been collected and placed in +the Château de Ferrières. We were told that Rothschild rarely ever gave +permission for visitors to see the inside of the château, as he did not +wish journalists and others to describe the interior of this splendid +house and the wealth it contained, which, we were assured, exceeded +that of any other in Europe. Tugwell, who could not speak French, was +delighted to find that one of the gardeners had lived as head gardener +on his estate near Bath, and had also been a gardener in the service of +the Prince of Wales, afterwards King Edward VII. This man showed us over +the greenhouses, and told us that he was one of twenty-seven gardeners +employed at Ferrières, and that the collection of orchids was the finest +in Europe; and Tugwell, who had a very fine collection himself, admitted, +after seeing them, that such must be the case. + +Baron Alphonse de Rothschild was a fair man with a long beard. He used, +at one time, to ride a very fine chestnut horse, and to go every morning, +accompanied by his daughter, also on horseback, to the Bois de Boulogne, +returning to his hôtel in time for _déjeuner_ at twelve o’clock. Mlle. de +Rothschild died quite young, and the Baron, who never seemed to get over +her death, died himself not long afterwards. + +On one occasion, I went to the Chantilly and to le Vésinet races, and was +shown over the splendid estate of the Duc d’Aumale. Colonel McCall, a +friend of my father, was Equerry to the Duke, and his son, who was an Old +Etonian, served in my regiment, which he commanded in later years. The +Duc d’Aumale bequeathed this splendid property to the French nation. Le +Vésinet races were not of much account, and were only kept going by the +support of the royal owner of Chantilly. + +I went, of course, to Versailles to see the magnificent château and +the beautiful gardens, which are laid out in the most charming manner +imaginable, and, though often imitated, have never been equalled. Le +Petit Trianon, with its splendid collection of roses of every possible +_nuance_—the “Souvenir à la Malmaison,” “Prince Noir,” “La France,” +“Niphetos,” “Boule de Neige,” and so forth—greatly enhance the charm +of that part of the gardens; and when the great fountains are playing, +the view from the terrace is quite fairy-like in its wonderful beauty, +and the château looks like one of those magic palaces described in the +“Arabian Nights.” When there is a display of fireworks and the fountains +are lit up by various coloured lights, you may almost imagine yourself +in fairyland or living in the days of the Caliph Haroun Alrashid, +particularly if one happens to be in the company of a fair lady, as I was +in that of Mlle. Renée Leclerc. + +I went once to Enghien with my mother and the Marquise Brian de +Bois-Guilbert, where we listened to a fine Prussian military band, which +played, as the Marquise observed, better than most French military bands. +It was, however, depressing to reflect that the Prussians were then +in occupation and so near Paris. Enghien is a nice little place, with +an artificial lake and some fine houses, and the public garden, where +the band plays of an afternoon, is a very pretty one. The Marquise de +Bois-Guilbert stayed there during the War, and for some time afterwards, +before returning to Paris, where she usually lived. + +I once visited the Fair of Saint-Germain with some friends. In one of +the shows a woman conjuror singled me out, and asked me to hold a gold +coin in my hand. Then, telling me to keep my hand tightly closed, she +went away to a considerable distance, counted up to three and fired off +a pistol. Afterwards, she asked me to open my hand and to count aloud in +French the pieces it contained, which I found numbered over thirty. How +the trick was performed I have never had the slightest idea to this day. + +I was once at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris, when a woman was blindfolded +on the stage; after which her husband came up to me and asked if I had a +foreign bank-note about me. I gave him an Austrian one, which he held in +his hand, and the woman immediately cried out: + +“Austrian ten-florin note, Number 178150.” + +I never was able to discover how this was done. + +I went once with Madame Saint-Hilaire, who wrote some interesting novels, +published by Dentu, of the Palais Royal, and her pretty daughter, Madame +Alice Kernave, who had been an actress in St. Petersburg, to a _séance_ +of spirit-rapping and table-turning, in which they both firmly believed. +But, to tell the truth, I did not think much of it, though the _séances_ +were always very well attended. I did not mind being kept in the dark +when I sat near Madame Alice Kernave, but when I went there alone with +her mother on one occasion I felt rather nervous. I never went again, but +frequently visited the daughter, whom I admired at that time. She had +received, while in St. Petersburg, very handsome presents from a Russian +gentleman, who, she told me, had recently died. She was looking for a +good engagement in _la haute comédie_, in which she was very clever. +I met her some years afterwards at Nice, where she was acting at the +theatre, when she told me that she had lived in great luxury while her +Russian friend was alive, but since then had been obliged to live more +economically in Paris. + +[Illustration: Madame Alice Kernave. + +[_To face p. 164._] + +[Illustration: The late Earl of Berkeley. + +[_To face p. 165._] + +I remember that once the Baron de Vay, a Russian, who lived during the +summer at a villa he owned at Vévey, in Switzerland, called on my mother, +in the Rue d’Albe, with his daughter, a pretty little girl of fourteen. +In the course of conversation, the Baron mentioned that he made a rule +of never knowing certain people for more than a fortnight, after which +he always dropped their acquaintance, if he possibly could, for, as he +explained, in that space of time he learned all their good qualities and +none of their faults. I could not help thinking at the time, and I am +still of the same opinion, that he was a most fortunate man to be able to +do so. The Baron only spoke French and Russian, and did not know a word +of English. + +In later years, when the Earl of Berkeley was living with his +wife and his sister-in-law, the Baronne van Havre, in the Rue de +Saint-Pétersbourg, he took a fancy to the streich melodion (or viola +zither), which is somewhat like the streich zither, and Sighicelli, +the famous violinist of the Grand Opéra, came every evening to give us +lessons, when we all three played together. The streich melodion is a +favourite instrument in Vienna, where thirty or forty of them are at +times played together by young girls in society at the Musik Vereins +Saal, and the effect is quite charming. Some evenings, Taffanel, the +flute-player of the Grand Opéra, brought his silver flute, and really +enchanted all whom Berkeley invited to his house. I remember that, one +evening, Captain Francis Lowther, the father of Miss Toupie Lowther, the +well-known lawn-tennis player, came there. He was a son of the Earl of +Lonsdale and a friend of my father. He told Berkeley how well he spoke +foreign languages, particularly French, when the latter replied that +there was very little merit in his being able to do so, as he had spoken +them all his life. + +At the house of some American friends of ours I had the privilege +of meeting the same evening two of the greatest men of their time: +General Grant and Gambetta. General Grant appeared to me to be a short, +stoutly-built and rather stern-looking man. On being presented to him, I +happened to remark that the day had been a fine one, to which he replied:— + +“I beg to differ from you, sir; the wind was a bitterly cold one from the +North.” + +I afterwards spoke in praise of Paris, and said how much I preferred it +to London, so far as its theatres and other amusements were concerned. +The General replied that he was much pleased with what he had seen of +Paris, but that London and the English interested him far more. He then +asked me several questions about England and the British Army, which I +answered to the best of my ability. My answers seemed to please him, +since he asked me to give him my address, and called on me with his +son the very next day; but I happened most unfortunately to be out. My +impression of Grant was that he was a very kind-hearted man, but that he +did not carry his heart on his sleeve. + +Gambetta shook hands with me like the General, but, instead of letting +go of my hand, kept it in his, the while he made a very long speech +in French, which was so florid that I was quite carried away by his +eloquence, and forgot almost where I was. He did not seem to expect +a reply; anyway, he contented himself with one or two monosyllables +from me, and praised England, the English, and the English Army in the +most high-flown language. My impression of Gambetta was that he was a +passionate, warm-hearted son of the Midi, who certainly wore his heart on +his sleeve. His appearance was not in his favour, as he was excessively +stout and had a bad figure, but his attractive, captivating manner more +than atoned for his physical defects. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + + My First Night at Mess—Life at Shorncliffe—The Charltons + + +It was not until two years after I had passed my examination for the +Army, in 1872, that I obtained my commission, when I was gazetted +as a sub-lieutenant to the 2nd Battalion of the 10th (Lincolnshire) +Regiment. My regiment was at that time serving in India, but, since it +was under orders to return home, I was posted to the regimental depôt at +Shorncliffe, which was attached temporarily to the 2nd Battalion of the +9th (Norfolk) Regiment. + +On my arrival at Shorncliffe, I reported to Lieutenant Richard Southey, +the officer temporarily commanding the depôt, the senior officer, Captain +Byron, being then on leave. He was a tall, good-looking man, with very +pleasant manners, and I felt at once at my ease with him. He showed me +the hut which was to serve as my quarters, and offered to do anything +for me that he could, even placing his soldier servant at my disposal, +until I had time to choose one from the depôt. My hut, which was similar +to those occupied by other officers, contained two small rooms leading +into one another; while the furniture, which I had had sent down from +London, was of the kind usually found in barracks, consisting of a bed +which could be easily taken to pieces, a chest of drawers separated into +two parts, but which could be put together for use, a green and black +Brussels carpet, and curtains to match. I also had an oak bureau, forming +a chest of drawers and writing-table, which I had had all the time I was +at Eton. The furniture supplied to officers by the War Office consisted +merely of a table and two or three ordinary chairs; but, with my own +arm-chair, tablecloth, various knick-knacks and a number of pictures +which I had had at Eton, I managed to make the rooms look habitable, if +nothing else. + +At half-past six a bugle sounded for the officers to dress for mess, +which was at seven o’clock. I confess that I felt not a little nervous on +entering the ante-room in my new uniform, which was scarlet with yellow +facings; but Southey was already there and introduced me to most of the +officers, who greeted me very cordially. + +The president at dinner was a captain named Dunn, who sat at the head +of the table; the vice-president was a lieutenant. The president and +vice-president hold office for a week, and are then replaced by other +officers of the same rank. The conversation at table was very animated, +mainly on general topics; indeed, military matters seemed to be more +or less tabooed. The string band of the regiment played during dinner, +and, I thought, tolerably well, though, as I had just come from Paris, +where I was accustomed to hear some of the best military bands, I was +perhaps rather difficult to please. After the band had played “God save +the Queen,” and Her Majesty’s health had been proposed by the president, +all the officers standing to drink it, we left the table, the president +and the vice-president being the last to leave. Most of the officers +then adjourned to the ante-room, where I got into conversation with a +lieutenant named Bethell, who had just joined the 9th (Norfolk) Regiment, +and whom I had known as a boy in Somersetshire. Bethell was a very clever +fellow, and in his examination for the Army had passed first out of three +hundred. He was an excellent rifle-shot and a good all-round sportsman. +Some years later he succeeded to the title of Lord Westbury, when he was +transferred to the Guards. + +In the course of the evening the adjutant, Lieutenant Maltby, came up to +me and told me that I must put in an appearance next morning at early +drill. Maltby was an exceedingly nice fellow, and a thorough soldier. +He was very particular about his dress, and even in mufti was always +_tiré à quatre épingles_. The following morning I found him on the +parade ground, when he handed me over to a corporal for instruction in +the goose step. After I had been practising this engaging exercise for +about an hour, the adjutant came up, watch in hand, and told the corporal +that that would do for the day, and asked me to accompany him to the +mess-room, where we ordered breakfast. With the exception of the orderly +officer, who was obliged to attend early parade with the adjutant and who +came in shortly afterwards, we had the room to ourselves, as the other +officers did not as a rule breakfast until nine o’clock or later. + +After breakfast, Maltby took me to the orderly room, to introduce me to +the colonel, telling me that I must always address him and the majors +as “Sir,” but that this was only customary with other superior officers +when on parade. The colonel, Lieut.-Colonel Knox, who came in shortly +afterwards, was a tall, well-built man of about sixty, with grey hair and +moustache and whiskers almost white, which gave him the appearance of +being older than he was. He was very pleasant to me, and said:— + +“I am very pleased to have you in my regiment, and am only sorry that you +do not belong to it, as you are an Etonian, and I am very fond of Eton +boys.” + +He then said I must come to his house, when he would present me to his +wife and daughter. + +At lunch, which was at half-past one, I was introduced to a lieutenant +named Lovell, a good-looking fellow about five-and-twenty, with fair +hair and moustache, whom I had not seen the previous evening, and with +whom I became very friendly. He asked me to come with him for a walk to +Folkestone, which was quite near, to which I readily consented. We had a +pleasant walk along the cliffs, and I was quite charmed with Folkestone, +with its green lawns facing the sea and its fine houses, standing for +the most part in the midst of trim, little gardens, gay with summer +flowers. During our walk Lovell explained to me many things about the +Service, and told me many curious incidents which had happened while +the regiment was at Yokohama, where it had been stationed for several +years, before being sent to Shorncliffe. He said that the regiment was +very sorry to leave Japan, and that it was never likely to have such a +charming station again. After a short time in England, it would probably +be ordered to India, and that, in that case, he should exchange into +a cavalry regiment, which he subsequently did. He was, however, very +devoted to his present regiment, and said that the chief was an excellent +man, and everything that one could wish for in a colonel, and that it was +a rare thing to find all the officers pull so well together as they did. +Unfortunately, the colonel would have to retire soon, though Daunt, the +senior major, who would probably succeed to the command, would not make a +bad chief. + +A day or two later, I called at the colonel’s house, where I was +introduced to his wife and daughter. The latter was a tall, dark girl, in +the early twenties, with very charming manners. The colonel asked me a +number of questions about Eton and also about Paris, of which city he was +very fond, though he had not been there for some years; and when I left, +walked part of the way back to camp with me. + +I found my life very easy with the 9th Regiment. I had to attend parade +from seven till eight, and again from eleven till half-past twelve; but +of an afternoon I was generally free to do as I pleased, as it was only +occasionally that I had to attend afternoon parade, which, however, +was over by four o’clock. After my duties for the day were over and I +had changed my clothes, I usually went into Folkestone, returning in +time for mess. At first the only people I knew in Folkestone were a +retired colonel and his wife, who were friends of my parents; but Lovell +introduced me to several of his friends. Among them was a certain Miss +Burnett, who was very much in love with a lieutenant of the 9th Regiment, +named Seaton, and at no pains to conceal the fact, which occasioned +me no little amusement. Unfortunately, Seaton did not reciprocate the +attachment with which he had inspired her. More to my taste than this +lovelorn damsel was a lively young lady of some fifteen summers, who was +known to her intimates as “Vic.” She was a general favourite with the +subalterns of the regiment, as she was very fond of horses and dogs, and +rather amusing in her conversation, in which she used slang expressions +with considerable freedom. Miss “Vic” used to drive a very smart turn-out +about Folkestone, and was quite an accomplished whip. + +The 9th Regiment used to give “Penny Readings” once a fortnight, at +which a good many people from Folkestone and Sandgate were generally +present. At the first of these entertainments which I attended Lovell +read some of “Artemus Ward,” and in such an amusing manner that everyone +was delighted. As I had the reputation of being a good performer on the +zither, I was asked to play something on that instrument, which was quite +a novelty. It was very well received, and next day I received a note from +a lady unknown to me, who, I was told, was the mother of an officer in +the “Blues,” inviting me to dinner and asking me to bring my zither with +me. I showed the letter to Maltby, who advised me not to accept it, as it +would, in his opinion, be making myself too cheap. So I declined, with +many thanks. + +A subaltern of the 10th Regiment, named Richard Southey, went on leave +about this time and left me his black servant. I found the fellow very +attentive, but I soon began to miss things. Among them was a pearl stud, +for finding which I promised him a shilling. As, however, it was not +forthcoming, I offered him half-a-crown, and the next day he produced +it, to my great satisfaction. But, as I soon found that this system of +offering rewards for “lost” articles was a trifle too expensive, and I +could not get rid of him till Southey returned, I was forced to protect +myself by putting everything of value under lock and key. Nevertheless, +he generally succeeded in discovering some means of relieving me of +anything to which he happened to take a fancy. + +[Illustration: Miss Augusta Charlton. + +[_To face p. 172._] + +[Illustration: Miss Ida Charlton. + +[_To face p. 173._] + +Captain John Byron, a grandson of Lord Byron, who commanded the depôt +of my regiment, returned about this time from leave. He was a rather +handsome and very distinguished-looking man of forty, but inclined +to be very arrogant in his manner towards those whom he did not like. +Fortunately, he condescended to take a great fancy to me from the first, +and made quite a friend of me, notwithstanding that I was so much younger +than he was. + +Soon after this, another sub-lieutenant, named Arthur Dillon, joined my +regiment, so that I now had a companion at morning drill. Dillon was the +son of an Irish baronet, who was also a Count of the Holy Roman Empire, +though no one would have imagined that he hailed from the Emerald Isle, +as he spoke without the faintest trace of an Irish accent, and was a very +nice young fellow indeed. + +One day I took Dillon over to Dover to call upon some people named +Charlton, whose acquaintance I had made when a boy at Ostend, and who +were now living in Victoria Park. Mr. Charlton had formerly served in the +Queen’s Bays, though he had sold out of the Service while still a cornet; +his wife was a very handsome woman, and they had six children, five +girls and a boy, the two elder girls, Augusta and Ida, being remarkably +pretty. Mrs. Charlton invited us to stay to supper, an invitation which +we readily accepted, the more so that we were both at a susceptible age +and the charms of our hostess’s daughters had not been without their +effect upon us. During supper Mrs. Charlton told us that a very smart +ball was to be given shortly at Dover, to which they were going, and +suggested that we should join them and bring two or three other young +officers, saying that she could manage to put us all up for the night. +Needless to say, we gladly accepted her kind offer, and on the day of +the ball went over to Dover, with Bethell and another subaltern of the +9th named Townsend. As the ball was a military one, we all had to appear +in uniform, and at the entrance to the ball-room were asked our names +and regiments. Townsend gave his own and my name, and when they asked my +rank, coolly replied: “Colonel, 10th Regiment.” Next day, in the local +newspaper, in the list of those present at the ball, I duly appeared as +such. + +After the ball, which was a great success, and at which the Misses +Charlton, who had recently returned from a visit to the Continent and +wore dresses of the very latest Paris fashion, were immensely admired, we +drove back to Victoria Park, where we spent what little remained of the +night, and after an early breakfast returned to Shorncliffe. + +Dillon and I found our life at Shorncliffe very monotonous when winter +came on, for Folkestone was almost empty, and had it not been for the +kindness of our friends at Dover, at whose house we were always assured +of a warm welcome, we should have had a precious dull time of it. The +only event of interest was the arrival from India of the 3rd Battalion +of the 60th Rifles, all the officers of which were made honorary members +of the 9th Regiment’s mess, until their own mess was in order. I made +the acquaintance of several of the new-comers, who seemed very nice +fellows indeed. One of them, Captain Bingham, told me, _à propos_ of +the ball to which I had been at Dover, that once the 1st Rifle Brigade, +when stationed there, had been invited to a ball given by the Buffs, +but that when the “Green Jackets,” in their turn, gave a ball, they did +not condescend to invite any of the officers of the Buffs, nor any of +the Dover ladies, all the guests coming down from London, which greatly +disgusted everybody at Dover, and created a very bad feeling between the +two regiments. + +Not long after this, Captain Byron received news that our regiment was +shortly expected from India, and would be stationed at Chatham. This, of +course, necessitated the immediate removal of the depôt to Chatham, to +the great regret of both Dillon and myself, for, on the whole, we had +been very happy at Shorncliffe, and feared that we might not enjoy nearly +so much liberty as we had had with the 9th Regiment. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + + An N.C.O. of the Old School—Major Blewett—Captain + Byron—Sandhurst + + +On our arrival at Chatham Barracks, I was allotted a single room in the +officers’ quarters, which was much smaller and less comfortable than +either of the two rooms which I had occupied at Shorncliffe. Dillon was +given a similar one, but Byron, being a captain, had better accommodation. + +Dillon and I found our life at Chatham very different from that at +Shorncliffe, and not nearly so pleasant. We had to attend early drill +with the recruits under a sergeant, who was very severe, and made us +drill exactly the same as the men. Some mornings it was so cold that our +hands became quite numbed, and we could scarcely hold our rifles. But +this martinet of a sergeant had no pity, and made us “carry on” until we +were ready to drop with fatigue and cold. The recruits he bullied most +unmercifully. One morning, a recruit arrived late for parade, whereupon +the sergeant gave him several kicks on his shins, and pulled him by the +ears, until the poor fellow almost yelled with the pain. His tormentor, +however, soon silenced him. + +“I won’t have any of your blubbering,” cried he. “If you don’t stop at +once, I’ll give you three days’ extra drill.” This sort of thing he +could do with impunity, as the adjutant was rarely on the parade-ground +during early morning drill. He appeared at afternoon parade, but paid +very little attention to the recruits, occupying himself mainly with +company drill. So matters continued until our regiment arrived, and even +then there was not much improvement, for, so long as we remained in +Chatham Barracks, the luckless recruits were always drilled by the same +sergeant, none of them daring to complain, from fear lest worse things +should befall them. + +The 2nd Battalion of the 10th Regiment was at that time commanded by +Lieut.-Colonel Annesley, an amiable old gentleman, with a wife and +family, who appeared to engross a good deal more of his attention than +did his regiment. For of much that was going on he seemed quite ignorant, +and it was purposely kept from him. In fact, the battalion was really +commanded by the senior major, Major Blewitt, the colonel seldom putting +in an appearance except on field days. Major Blewitt was a very smart +officer, and though at times inclined to severity, exceedingly just. +He was very particular about etiquette, and scarcely ever spoke to a +subaltern, except to give him advice or to reprimand him, even in the +ante-room. I recollect about the only occasion on which he condescended +to address me. + +There was a sub-lieutenant of a West India Regiment, whom I will call +H——, attached at that time to the 10th. This young gentleman was very +fond of écarté, and often induced me to play with him after mess. We +played for half-a-crown a game, and I found that I generally lost, as +H—— had a perfectly wonderful way of turning up the king almost every +time he dealt. One evening, we were playing in the ante-room, where Major +Blewitt was sitting, reading a newspaper. Presently, the major looked +over the top of his paper, and observed that it was a pity that we could +not find some better way of passing the time than playing cards; adding +that, if he thought we were playing for money, he would stop us at once. +Soon afterwards, we finished our rubber, and H—— left the room, upon +which Major Blewitt called me to him and told me that he did not like to +see me playing cards. On one occasion, he said, he was present when two +young officers were playing écarté. One of them lost persistently the +whole evening, but since they both assured him that they were playing for +love, he did not interfere, though the way the luck continued to run in +one direction was extremely suspicious. Subsequently, he discovered that +they had actually been playing for five hundred pounds a game, and that +the loser had been completely ruined. The major added that, from what he +had seen of H——’s play, he should be very sorry to sit down to cards with +him, and to play with him for anything like high stakes would be simply +madness. The warning he gave me on this occasion was certainly well +justified, for a lieutenant of the Lincoln’s, named Glass, afterwards +lost considerable sums to H—— at écarté. + +The captains of the regiment did not like Major Blewitt, who treated +them off parade with a certain haughtiness, as though he were showing +them condescension in speaking to them at all; while the N.C.O.’s, and +particularly the sergeants, were all afraid of him, as he seemed to be +aware of everything that was going on, and was very severe upon them if +they did not treat the men properly. + +One day on parade, when Major Blewitt was in command, he gave some +extraordinary orders, which it was quite impossible for the regiment to +carry out, and later, in the ante-room, he behaved in a very strange +manner. It was then ascertained that his mind was affected, the result of +a sunstroke which he had had in India. He went away on sick leave, but +six months later had to retire from the Service, as it was found that he +was never likely to recover. + +The next officer in seniority was Major Hudson, who told me that he +had served under my uncle and godfather, General the Hon. Sir George +Cathcart, when the latter was Governor of the Cape. The major was a very +pleasant man, but he had certain eccentricities, one of which was a +partiality for white kid gloves and patent-leather boots, which he wore +on parade, even in winter. He had little control over the captains, who +did very much as they liked. One of them was almost perpetually drunk, +and led his wife, a rather pretty woman and very well off, a miserable +life, even going so far as to beat her, it was said. Some of the +subalterns also drank a great deal more than was good for them, and there +was one who was drunk on parade on at least one occasion. + +Little, the senior lieutenant and adjutant, was, however, a very nice +fellow, as well as a good soldier, and the same could be said for two +other subalterns, Archibald Glen and De Houghton. The former was six feet +seven in height, and reputed to be the tallest man in the Army. I liked +him exceedingly, but, unfortunately, he soon left the regiment for the +Staff College. De Houghton, who afterwards became a baronet, had received +the Gold Medal of the Royal Humane Society for saving life at sea. + +There was a subaltern in the 10th who prided himself on his knowledge +of French. Once, when the regiment was stationed at Malta, a French +warship happened to call there, and the officers were invited by the 10th +to dinner. This lieutenant, being the best French scholar, was placed +between the captain of the warship and another French officer. Presently, +the captain asked him in French how long he had been at Malta, to which +he replied, without hesitation, while everybody pricked up their ears to +listen:— + +“_Je suis un âne ici._” (“I am an ass here.”) + +The French captain tried to look serious, but the other French officers +burst into fits of laughter. One of them spoke a little English and +explained to the company what the joke was, when they all joined in the +merriment. Needless to say, this misadventure remained ever afterwards a +standing joke against the unfortunate lieutenant. + +Life at Chatham was very monotonous. Of society there was practically +none, and, as the married ladies of the regiment were not on good terms +with one another, there was little or no entertaining among the 10th. +There was no theatre and only a couple of low-class music-halls. I went +once to one of them, where there was a box reserved for the officers of +the garrison, but did not feel inclined to repeat the visit. + +While I was at Chatham, a big ball was given in the officers’ mess-room +at the barracks by the regiments forming the garrison. A good many people +came down from London, and were conveyed back by a special train after +the ball was over. I invited my friends from Dover, and the two elder +girls, Augusta and Ida, were, as usual, much admired. The affair was a +great success, and the supper was on the most lavish scale, with plovers’ +eggs and every imaginable delicacy and champagne flowing like water. + +In due course, Dillon and I were put to company drill. On one occasion +I got my company into a hopeless position, up against a wall, and not +knowing what to do, told them calmly “to stand at ease,” to the great +amusement of everyone, including the adjutant, who told the story against +me at mess that night, observing that I must evidently be a person of +resource, as anyone else would have been at a loss how to act. + +A good many field-days took place at Chatham, of which the escalading of +some high walls was a feature. I had sometimes to carry the colours in +escalading these walls, a task which I did not much relish, as it was by +no means an easy one. + +I was growing so tired of Chatham that I was quite glad when I was sent +with the rest of my company to Gravesend, to go through a six weeks’ +musketry course. I was constantly with Captain Byron, whom I very much +liked, indeed, I preferred him to anyone else in the regiment, even +to Dillon. Byron used to tell me that I was very foolish to leave the +regiment, for one day he would, he thought, be in command, and then I +should have a very good time of it. But my relatives were anxious for me +to serve in one of the regiments for which my name had been put down on +the Prince of Wales’s private list, so I thought I was bound to accept +the transfer when the offer came, which I was sure would be very soon. + +While at Gravesend, I went up to town to see Aimée Desclée act in _Diane +de Lys_, by Alexandre Dumas _fils_. I thought her the finest actress +I had ever seen, with the exception, perhaps, of Sarah Bernhardt. She +played the part with so much delicacy and refinement, her voice was so +pleasing and her attitudes so graceful, that I was altogether charmed +with her. Poor woman! She died very soon afterwards from a chest +complaint, while quite young. I was much pleased with an American actor, +J. K. Emmett, at the St. James’s Theatre, who played with a little child, +singing a song in which the refrain was: “Schneider, how you vas.” I also +paid more than one visit to the Opera at Covent Garden, where Adelina +Patti and Scalchi and the tenor Gayarré were delighting the audience. + +On my return to Chatham I found the work very hard. The most trying part +of it was being on guard at the barracks, where I was obliged to be on +duty once a week for the whole twenty-four hours. The guard used to be +turned out two or three times during the day, and also in the middle of +the night, by the field-officer of the week, who sometimes made his round +at one or two o’clock in the morning, when the subaltern on duty had to +turn out the guard, besides having to go his round of the sentries. The +officer on guard was not allowed to go to bed or take his clothes off, +even after the field-officer had made his round of inspection, or he +might get into the most serious trouble. There were other guards at some +distance from Chatham, to look after the convicts, but this was during +the day, and not nearly so trying as to be on guard at the barracks. + +Not long after my return to Chatham, Dillon and I were sent to Sandhurst, +for a six months’ course of instruction. But before going, at my +relatives’ suggestion, I went up to town to see the Military Secretary of +the War Office, who was then General Cartwright, to inquire what chance I +had of being transferred to the Rifle Brigade. He asked me what influence +I had, when I mentioned the Adjutant-General, Lord Airey, who had already +presented me at a levée to the Prince of Wales, while I was stationed +at Shorncliffe. General Cartwright then inquired if I had not any other +interest, remarking that the Scots Guards were more easy to enter than +either the Rifle Brigade or the 60th Rifles, and that, unless I had +someone else behind me, he feared my chance would be but a poor one. I +then told him that my cousin, the Hon. Emily Cathcart, maid of honour to +Queen Victoria, had had my name put down for both the Rifle regiments, +by General Ponsonby, on the Prince of Wales’s private list, upon which he +smiled and said:— + +“She could get you into either of these; in fact, she could get you into +anything she pleased. If you had mentioned her name before, I could have +told you so at once.” + +I found life at Sandhurst very much like being at school again, with more +restrictions than there were at Eton. There was a great deal of “ragging” +going on, and some fellows had their furniture and everything in their +rooms broken. I was fortunate in being, for some unaccountable reason, +rather popular with the ringleaders—not that I assisted them in any way, +for this sort of horse-play did not appeal to me—and so escaped being one +of their victims. Dillon was not so lucky, as at first he showed fight, +but he soon recognized that the wisest course was to assume indifference. +There were several sub-lieutenants of the Guards and cavalry regiments at +Sandhurst, one or two of whom had been at Eton with me, and I made many +friendships, one with a young fellow in the 78th Highlanders, with whom +I often took long walks into the pretty country around Sandhurst. Apart +from the instruction, I rather enjoyed my time at the college, as I got +on well with nearly everyone. I had to go through the riding-school and +ride horses over jumps without stirrups, which rather amused me, although +there were some officers who disliked this part of the curriculum very +much. + +After I had been about a month at Sandhurst, the Military Governor of +the College, General Sir A. Alison, sent for me and told me that I had +been transferred to the 2nd Battalion of the 60th Rifles, stationed in +India. I must confess that I was at first rather disappointed, as it was +not the regiment I had asked for, and I did not much like the idea of +going to India. I asked General Alison what I had better do, when he said +that he would telegraph to the War Office, and that I ought to finish my +course of instruction at Sandhurst. I anxiously awaited the reply; and +the following day he sent for me again, and told me that I must leave at +once and get ready to sail for India, but that he thought the War Office +would allow me a month to procure my outfit. + +Next day I left Sandhurst for London, and, having obtained a month’s +leave, proceeded to Paris to visit my parents in the Rue d’Albe, +Champs-Elysées. They, and my father in particular, told me that I had +better accept the transfer, as I might have to wait a long time for +the Rifle Brigade, and the Military Secretary had told me that I was +appointed to the first vacancy that had occurred, as there was no vacancy +in the Rifle Brigade then. + +During my stay in Paris, I often rode in the Bois with my father on a +fiery thoroughbred chestnut, whom I found a very different kind of mount +from the horses at Sandhurst, as he started at the least touch of my +heel, whereas the others had required both whip and spur. I made the most +of my time, going often to the Théâtre-Français, where I saw Delaunay in +plays by Alfred de Musset and Alexandre Dumas _fils_, and was delighted +with his acting. He was the best _jeune premier_ whom I ever saw, and +always excellent in the art of stage love-making. I went to several balls +and indulged in some flirtations with both French and American damsels, +and was sorry when the day arrived that I had to take my departure for +London to purchase my outfit for India. My mother was distressed at my +having to go to India, particularly as the battalion had to stay out +there for some years, and she was in very delicate health at that time. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + + I sail for India—Kandy—Dangerous Playmates—I arrive at Murree + + +My father accompanied me to Portsmouth in the winter of 1873, where the +troopship in which I was to sail for India was lying. We had first to +touch at Queenstown, to embark a line regiment which had been ordered +to Ceylon, and had a very unpleasant crossing, nearly everyone on board +being ill. I had to share a cabin with two other sub-lieutenants, who +joined the ship at Queenstown. One of them, named Basil Montgomery, was +in my own regiment, having recently been transferred from the Highland +Light Infantry. He was very tall, for which reason he was nicknamed +“Longfellow” on board. The name of the other sub-lieutenant, who belonged +to the 16th Lancers, was Babington, which, owing to his somewhat youthful +appearance, was promptly abbreviated to “Baby.” I myself duly received +the sobriquet of “Julie,” as Montgomery declared I was in the habit of +murmuring this name in my dreams. It was that of a young lady whom I have +mentioned in my book, “Society Recollections in Paris and Vienna,” and +whom I had lately met frequently in society in Paris. + +The cabin we occupied was very small, and contained only one wash-basin, +so we had to dress and wash one at a time; but we soon got used to this +inconvenience. + +Montgomery and Babington were both excellent fellows, and I was soon on +very friendly terms with them, as I was also with another sub-lieutenant +of the 16th Lancers, named Taaffe. Taaffe was very musical, having a +good voice and playing the concertina capitally. The daughter of the +colonel of the line regiment we had on board, an extremely pretty and +very impressionable damsel of seventeen, fell very much in love with him, +and they used to sing duets together, to the accompaniment of Taaffe’s +concertina. + +We had fine weather in the Bay of Biscay, where it is usually so rough, +for which we were thankful. At Gibraltar we merely stopped for an hour +to coal, but at Malta we stayed long enough for everyone to go on shore. +Many of us dined at the Club and went to the Opera afterwards, which I +thought very fair. The climate of Malta seemed delightful, but the town +did not strike me as pretty. + +Not long after leaving Malta, bad weather and a dense fog came on, and +something went wrong with the machinery, so that the captain did not know +where we were. He was so alarmed that he ordered the chaplain to read the +prayers for those in peril at sea, as at any moment he thought the ship +might run on a rock. Happily, the machinery was repaired, and at the end +of three days the weather improved, and the danger was over. + +At Port Said most of the officers went ashore, and some of them visited +a gambling-house which bore a very evil reputation, an officer belonging +to the 16th Lancers having been stabbed there the year before. Taaffe +and I were among those who went, though Taaffe confessed to me that he +felt rather nervous, fearing that some of the natives might recognize his +uniform as that of the unfortunate officer’s regiment. + +At Ismailia we caught sight of M. de Lesseps, who sent an invitation to +the ship, inviting six of us to visit him. Many of the officers thought +that I ought to go, as I was the only one who could speak French; but +this suggestion was overruled, and it was decided that the six must +be chosen by seniority. As not one of them could speak French, and M. +de Lesseps did not understand English, the interview must have proved +a somewhat comic affair; at any rate, the six maintained a suspicious +silence about it on their return. + +Soon after we had passed through the Red Sea, which did not prove nearly +so hot as we had expected, I fell ill with scurvy, and the doctor who +attended me advised me to sleep in the passage near the ladies’ saloon, +as the air was purer. However, an old dame objected to my sleeping so +near the ladies, so the doctor got me a cabin to myself. On our arrival +at Colombo, where the line regiment was disembarked, he obtained leave +for me to go to Kandy and remain there until the ship sailed for Bombay. + +While at Kandy, I went with Taaffe, who had joined me there, and two +ladies to see the beautiful garden of Paradhenia, which is said to be +the original garden of Paradise. We were all amazed at its beauty; the +tropical plants and the vegetation being indescribably lovely. While +walking in the high grass, one of the ladies was bitten by leeches, which +crawled up her legs and frightened her terribly. She was fortunate, +however, not to have been bitten by something much more objectionable, +as we afterwards learned that it was very dangerous to walk in the high +grass, as it was infested by snakes, some of which were most venomous. + +The grandeur of the scenery at Kandy and the wonderful vegetation +enchanted us, as we had never seen anything to compare with it; it was +indeed quite a paradise upon earth. The climate was also delicious, and +even in the middle of the day the heat could not be called oppressive, +while the mornings and evenings were truly delightful. The residents, +however, told us that it was very trying to the health, as it never +varied in the least, summer or winter. The scenery between Colombo and +Kandy was in parts most exquisite, and the brilliant colouring of the +flowers, which were of every imaginable hue, made one almost believe +oneself in fairyland. + +Having embarked the infantry battalion which had been relieved by the one +we had brought from England, we sailed from Colombo, but after proceeding +some little way along the coast, the troopship stopped for half an hour, +to enable an officer who had to join his regiment to embark in a launch +which came out to fetch him. This officer took with him by mistake a +lady’s trunk containing her dresses and underclothing, instead of his +own, packed with his kit, which he left for the lady. The latter was in +despair, particularly when informed that she was unlikely to receive any +news of her property for six weeks at least. + +After a voyage of six weeks, we reached Bombay, and, after a little +trouble at the Custom House over some Turkish cigarettes which I had +brought with me, and upon which, to my surprise, I was obliged to +pay duty, proceeded, with some other officers, to Watson’s Hotel. At +“Watson’s,” which I found very expensive indeed, I met Viscount Baring, +of the Rifle Brigade, who had been at Eton with me. He told me that he +was now on the Viceroy’s Staff, and had come to Bombay to purchase some +Arab horses for Lord Northbrook. Although it was winter, the heat was +very great in Bombay, which I found very uninteresting, and, after a +stay of two or three days, I set out for Murree, in the hills in the +North-West Provinces, where my regiment was stationed. + +I had as a travelling companion for the first part of the journey a +Staff-officer named Parker, who, on our arrival at Mean Meer, invited +me to accompany him to the house of his brother-in-law, a judge, where +I was most hospitably entertained, and tasted for the first time a real +Indian curry, which I thought delicious. From Mean Meer I took the train +to Rawal Pindi, in the Punjab. On my arrival, I went to the dâk bungalow, +where soon afterwards I received a visit from a lieutenant in my regiment +named Beauclerk, a son of Lord Amelius Beauclerk. He was an exceedingly +good-looking young man, with fair hair and moustache and a very pleasant +manner, and was most kind, offering me a room which he had at his +disposal and inviting me to dine with him in the evening. After dinner I +was rather astonished at seeing his syce walking in front of his master’s +pony with a long stick, having at the end of it several bells, which he +moved about in the grass. I asked the reason of this, when I was told +that it was to frighten away the snakes, of which there were a great many +poisonous ones hereabouts. Beauclerk told me that, a few nights earlier, +he was dining with a Mrs. Kinloch, the wife of a captain in our regiment, +when he saw a cobra quite close to her. She was playing the piano at the +time, and the snake was evidently quite fascinated by the music. Fearing +lest, if she moved, the snake might bite her, he told her to continue +playing, and then, picking up a stick which happened to be near him, +hit the cobra on the head and killed it. He said that there was another +very dangerous snake called a kerite, which, though very small, was most +venomous, and that Mrs. Kinloch had found one quite recently in her bed. +Happily, she discovered it before it had a chance to bite her. + +Beauclerk told me that I ought to call upon Captain Kinloch, who, +having passed through the Staff College, was at that time Acting Deputy +Assistant Adjutant-General at Rawal Pindi. I did so, and was informed +that Mrs. Kinloch only was at home. On being shown into the drawing-room, +I was somewhat astonished to find a little girl there, playing with two +panther-cubs, who snarled and showed their teeth at me. I asked the child +whether she were not afraid of them, to which she answered:— + +“Oh, no, not at all!” and, opening the mouth of one of the cubs, thrust +her hand into it. + +I began to feel quite alarmed for her safety, and was not a little +relieved when her mother made her appearance upon the scene. + +Mrs. Kinloch was a very pretty young woman, with auburn hair and eyes +of a greyish-blue colour. She told me that the panther-cubs had been +captured by her husband a few days before, after he had shot the mother. + +“Are they not lovely?” she exclaimed enthusiastically. “So beautifully +marked in reddish-yellow and black, with such fascinating yellow and +brown eyes. It is delightful to watch them.” + +I replied that they were certainly very handsome and graceful animals, +but that, nevertheless, I could not understand her allowing her daughter +to have such dangerous playmates. + +To this she rejoined that she did not consider there was the slightest +danger, so long as you were not afraid of them, adding:— + +“My little girl is not the least afraid.” + +The little girl was caressing the cubs at the time, while the animals +were snarling and showing their long, pointed teeth, though whether in +play or not I could not say, as I was not sufficiently acquainted with +their ways. + +Captain Alexander Kinloch, who was a nephew of Sir Alexander Kinloch, +was, I may here remark, the most famous sportsman in India at that time, +and had written a celebrated book on big game shooting in India and +Tibet, which was considered to be the standard work on the subject. When +I met him afterwards, he told me many interesting things about Tibet, +from which he had brought a fine collection of sporting trophies. Amongst +them were several specimens of the ibex, which is found on the summits +of the highest mountains, and to “bag” one of which is considered the +greatest feat a sportsman can accomplish in India, since to approach +within rifle-shot of it often entails the greatest risk to life. + +During the few days I remained at Rawal Pindi, I made the acquaintance of +Colonel Montgomery-Moore, then commanding the 4th Hussars, and his wife, +the Hon. Mrs. Montgomery-Moore, a daughter of Lord Seaton, to whom I had +brought an introduction from my cousin, Emily Cathcart. They invited me +to dinner, when they were most anxious to hear all the latest news from +England, as they had been in India for some time. They were most kind and +agreeable, and the colonel gave me some valuable information about Murree. + +There was no railway to Murree, and travellers generally made the first +part of the journey from Rawal Pindi by carriage, and the rest in a +_jampan_ (a kind of sedan-chair) as the road through the mountains was +far too narrow and precipitate to admit of wheel traffic. I accordingly +hired a carriage, and set off, but at a dâk bungalow, where I stopped +to dine, I met a man, who, on hearing that I was on my way to Murree, +offered to lend me a grey Arab which he was riding, observing that it +would be a more pleasant way of making the journey than by _jampan_, and +promising to send my luggage after me. I thanked him and accepted his +offer, though, as he was a complete stranger to me, I could not help +feeling some misgivings as to his intentions, for, if he had a mind to +make off with my luggage, there was nothing to prevent him. + +The road which I had to traverse was very steep and in places almost +impassable, but the Arab appeared well accustomed to the country and +as sure-footed as a goat. I had, however, a few decidedly unpleasant +moments, when, at a very narrow part of the road, where there was a +precipice on one side, we met some buffaloes, as I thought they might +take into their heads to charge us. But they happened to be quite +peaceably disposed, and we got safely past them. It was late in the +evening when I reached Murree, which I found covered with snow, as it +stands 7,500 feet above sea level, and no greater contrast with the +plains and Rawal Pindi, where the weather had been quite like summer, +could be conceived. I made my way to the officers’ quarters, where I was +given a room, and my horse well looked after. I had received instructions +from the Arab’s owner to send him back to the dâk bungalow. This I did +the following day, in the course of which my luggage arrived quite +safely, not a little, I must frankly admit, to my relief. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + + My Brother-Officers—“The Oyster”—In High Society—Our Menagerie + + +Murree is a very charming town. The houses, which bear some resemblance +to those of Switzerland, but are mostly constructed of wood and have +rarely more than two storeys, are built on the summit and sides of a +ridge, and command magnificent views over forests, cultivated fields, +hills and deep valleys, with the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas in +the distance. There was a fairly good club at Murree, containing a number +of bedrooms for the convenience of the members when they happened to +require them. + +In the summer months my battalion was not actually stationed at Murree, +but two miles off in the country, at Kooldunah. The officers lived in +houses and villas very like Swiss cottages, and the men’s quarters +were at the top of a very steep hill, about ten minutes’ walk from the +mess. The battalion was at this time commanded by Lieut.-Colonel H. P. +Montgomery, who had a brother in the Rifle Brigade. Colonel Montgomery, +who was a fine-looking man of about fifty-five and wore a pointed beard +which was beginning to turn grey, was universally popular, as he was +a thorough soldier and devoted to his profession. He did everything +possible to make his battalion as efficient as any in the Service, and +prided himself upon its smart appearance and perfect discipline. He +had the eye of a hawk for mistakes on parade, but would correct those +responsible for them in a good-humoured, kindly manner, very different +from some less experienced C.O.’s, who would often lose their tempers and +swear when anything happened to go wrong. + +The senior major, Major Ashburnham, the son of a baronet, was of somewhat +striking appearance, having red hair and a red beard. Like his chief, he +was a first-rate soldier and a thorough gentleman both on and off parade, +and held in high esteem by the officers and men under him. He was known +to his intimates by the nickname of “Brittles,” about which he used to +relate an amusing story:— + +Once, when returning to India after being on leave in England, he +happened to meet on board the P. and O., a man whose acquaintance he +had made on the voyage home, when he had been accompanied by some +brother-officers, who had, of course, always addressed him as “Brittles.” +This man, who was bringing his wife out with him, asked permission to +present Ashburnham to the lady, and gravely introduced him as “Major +Brittles,” under the impression that such was really his name. + +The junior major, whose name was Algar, was a very plain man, rather +badly marked with the small-pox, and was by no means so popular as +Ashburnham. He was a very keen sportsman, and when off duty was seldom +to be seen without a rifle in his hand. One day I met him near Murree, +when he told me that he had just seen a tiger, but that it had made off, +adding that a tiger would nearly always run away from a man, unless he +first attacked it. + +The captains were nearly all very nice fellows. Captain Pauli, into whose +company I was put, was a tall and very muscular man, with a pointed +beard, which gave him a somewhat foreign appearance. He was a great +sportsman, but kept very much to himself, and, except at mess, the other +officers saw little of him. + +The adjutant, Sydenham-Clarke, was a very good-looking fellow and always +so beautifully turned out, whether in uniform or plain clothes, that he +looked as if he had just come out of a band-box. He was very kind to the +young officers at their drill and took the greatest pains with them. +He was also much liked by the men, and did not bully them or allow the +sergeants to do so, as was unfortunately the case in so many regiments at +that time. In a word, he was the right man in the right place, and how +rarely this happens in the Service few people would imagine. + +When I first came to Murree, I occupied a room in the officers’ quarters. +There was a large room on the ground floor which was unoccupied, and, as +it was so intensely cold, the subalterns amused themselves by playing +a game of battledore and shuttle-cock across a net. Hubert Lovett, +a sub-lieutenant who joined the battalion a week after I did, and +myself were the first to think of this game, which somewhat resembled +lawn-tennis in the way we served. It was taken up afterwards by many +officers who dined at our mess, and is said to have given the idea of +lawn-tennis to the inventor. + +Soon after my arrival at Murree, I fell ill with dysentery, owing, the +doctor who attended me told me, to the sudden change of climate. I was +laid up for some time, but when it began to grow warmer I gradually +recovered. + +The winter was a very severe one at Murree, and those who were fond +of skating had excellent opportunities for indulging in this pastime. +Fiennes-Dickenson, a lieutenant who had been transferred from the first +battalion of the regiment, which was then stationed in Canada, was a +most accomplished performer on the ice, cutting figures and the letters +of the alphabet as well, and MacCall, a captain, who had also come from +the first battalion, was but little inferior to him. Dickenson told me +that life at Quebec and Montreal was uncommonly pleasant, and that they +scarcely felt the intense cold there at all, as the climate was so dry, +and there was so little wind. He said that it was the custom there for +every officer to have a girl “chum,” who went tobogganing and skating +with him and shared all his amusements. But he never married this young +lady, who always ended by marrying someone else. This “chum” was a girl +usually belonging to society, and was invited to all the balls and +parties given by the regiment and considered quite _comme il faut_. +Dickenson added that he much preferred the life out in Canada to the life +in India, though Murree was the very best station, which was generally +only given to a crack regiment. Dickenson was a lieutenant of some +years’ standing and very well off, having succeeded to a fine property +of his uncle, Lord Saye and Sele, called Syston Court, near Bristol, +although his father, with whom he was not on the best of terms, had the +right of residing there during his lifetime. He was a great talker and +his conversation was often very amusing. + +When summer came, the battalion moved to Kooldunah, where I occupied +rooms in a small villa with a garden attached, in which Lovett and +another sub-lieutenant named Sanford also had their quarters. Later on, +we were joined by a young officer named Wilson, who had been transferred +from a line regiment. We got on pretty well together, particularly Lovett +and myself, who soon became great friends, and were constantly together. +Lovett was a strongly-built young fellow, with black, curly hair, very +white teeth, and a good-humoured expression. He was clean-shaven, which +was rare at that time for a soldier. He had a very loud voice, and when +he laughed he did it so heartily that everyone in the room used to turn +round. He was quite colour-blind and never could distinguish one colour +from another. Once he had to paint a river for a plan which he was +required to draw, and would have painted it red instead of blue, if I had +not been helping him. + +Sanford was quite a boy, without any hair on his face, tall and fair, +with rather a large mouth, for which reason he was called “The Oyster.” +One day, when he happened to be on duty, a rifleman was overheard by +Lovett to say to another: + +“Who is on duty to-day: Lovett or Wilson?” + +“Neither,” was the answer, “it’s ‘The Oyster.’” + +Much to Sanford’s annoyance, Lovett, roaring, as usual, with laughter, +told the story at mess that night, and remarked:— + +“Why, even all the riflemen call him ‘The Oyster’ now!” + +Sanford did not like me at all, because he suspected that it was I who +had been the first to bestow this nickname upon him, and it is quite +possible that his suspicions may have been correct, though I cannot be +certain. + +Wilson, the remaining occupant of our villa, was a rather good-looking +and very smart young fellow, who spoke Hindustani very fluently. But he +was very conceited, and imagined himself a much greater sportsman than he +was. Once, when he had been on leave to Kashmir, he returned with such +a wonderful collection of big game trophies that none of us could bring +himself to believe that they had all fallen to his own rifle, and MacCall +said to him at mess:—“Wilson, I tell you what it is—you have bought all +that big game from some _shikarri_ in Kashmir!” At this remark Wilson +became furious, and next morning, in the orderly-room, reported the +incident to the Colonel, when MacCall was put under arrest until he had +apologized to his aggrieved brother-officer. This, however, did not cause +him to change his opinion on the subject. + +MacCall, whose father was Equerry to the Duc d’Aumale, spoke French +perfectly, wore an imperial with his moustache, and might easily have +been mistaken for a Frenchman. He shared a villa with a sub-lieutenant +named Arthur Powys Vaughan, an exceedingly nice fellow, who had been at +Harrow and had taken his degree at Oxford before entering the Service. + +With the exception of our medico, Surgeon-Major Macnamara, the +quartermaster, Fitzherbert, and the junior major, whose wife was in +England, all the officers were bachelors. Consequently, we were very +badly off in the matter of ladies’ society, so far as the battalion was +concerned. Mrs. Macnamara, who was a sister of Sir Howard Elphinstone, +Equerry to the Duke of Edinburgh, was a very charming elderly lady, and +I often used to go and take tea with her and her husband. She was partly +Russian by birth and extremely musical, and took a great interest in the +regimental band, in regard to which she was frequently consulted. I was +put on the band committee and often attended the rehearsals of a morning. + +Lovett and I used to pay visits to ladies whom we thought we would care +to know, as is the custom in India. One day, we called on two ladies who +had a charming villa, beautifully furnished, and whom we rather admired, +though we knew nothing whatever about them. They received us very coldly, +at which we were surprised, until Mrs. Macnamara told us that they were +two very fast ladies, who were protected by some well-known officers in +Murree, holding very high positions on the Staff. + +When I was alone one day, I noticed a very pretty woman, upon whom +I left my card. A few days later, I received a very friendly note +from her, asking me to dine with her on a certain evening. However, +in the meantime, I sprained my ankle, and was put on the sick list, +and therefore not allowed to go out. But, I thought that, as it would +probably be a _tête-à-tête_ dinner, which I should not like to miss, I +would go in a _jampan_, carried by two men, and no one would be any the +wiser. I hesitated whether to go in plain clothes or in mess uniform, +but finally decided for the latter. I had not made any special effort +to be punctual, and, in point of fact, arrived half an hour late. On +entering the drawing-room, I found quite a number of people impatiently +awaiting the advent of the belated guest, amongst whom I recognized, to +my consternation, the General commanding the troops in the Punjab; and +I was still more taken aback when I learned that I was dining with the +Secretary of State for India, and that my hostess was his wife! However, +these great people were very nice to me, and the General, who did not +seem at all to resent my having kept him waiting for his dinner, asked me +several questions about my colonel and regiment, as, though there were +several other officers present, I was the only “Greenjacket.” For this I +was duly thankful, since if one of the senior officers of my battalion +had happened to be there, I should have got into trouble for going out to +dine when I was on the sick list. + +It was the custom to take your _khitmagar_ with you when you dined out, +and I did so on this occasion. The next evening at mess, I noticed my +_khitmagar_ opening a bottle of Château-Laffitte for me, and asked him +where he got it from. + +“I saw last night that _Sahib_ liked this wine the best,” he replied, +“so I brought half a dozen bottles of it away from the dinner-party for +_Sahib_!” + +I burst out laughing, thinking to myself that I could not well scold my +servant for looking after me so attentively. + +_À propos_ of native servants, when I first joined the battalion, I +had a Christian “bearer,” whom I had brought from Bombay, and who +spoke English. But at the end of my first month at Murree, when I saw +my mess-bill, I discovered that a quantity of brandies and sodas were +charged for which I had never had. When I called my “bearer’s” attention +to this, he incontinently bolted from Murree, taking some of my property +with him. However, he was eventually laid by the heels, and I had to ask +for leave off parade to go down to the Law Courts at Murree to prosecute +him. This taught me that it is better not to engage “bearers” who talk +English and call themselves Christians. + +Among the senior lieutenants in the battalion was Albert Phipps, a +brother of the Hon. Harriet Phipps, maid of honour to Queen Victoria, +with whom, as I have mentioned elsewhere, I once took tea at Windsor +Castle in my Eton days. Phipps, who was fair and rather stout and always +wore an eyeglass, was a godson of the Prince Consort, the only one who +was still alive. He once told me that Queen Victoria had written a letter +in her own hand, recommending him for an appointment with the Viceroy, +but that the officer who was specially charged with its delivery had the +misfortune to lose it. Rather than permit this officer to be punished +for his negligence, as he undoubtedly would have been, Phipps refused to +allow his sister to mention the matter to Her Majesty, and suffered in +silence the loss of an appointment which was not only a very agreeable +one, but would have meant a great increase of pay. How many men would +have acted as nobly as he did? Very few, I am afraid. + +One night, while riding home after mess, along a very dark road, Phipps’s +horse fell with him. He was not hurt, but his eyeglass was broken in two, +and as he could not get another one in India, he wore half an eyeglass +for about three months, until a fresh supply was sent from England. + +At the villa where I lived in the summer months we kept several animals, +including a wild cat, which was very savage and nearly as big as a +wolf, a bear, which we tried to tame, a hyena and a monkey. These +animals belonged to Wilson, who one day let the bear loose, and we had +considerable trouble in recapturing it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + + A Subalterns’ Court-Martial—A Terrible Experience—High + Mess-bills + + +Amongst our amusements at Murree were balls, which were given +periodically at the Club by the officers of the battalion. Although +the majority of the fair guests were married women, there was always a +sprinkling of unmarried ones amongst them, most of whom had come out to +India in the hope of finding husbands. The band of the regiment furnished +the music, and there was always a very good supper, with an abundance +of champagne and other wines, so that they were very enjoyable affairs +indeed. After one of these balls a most unpleasant incident occurred. + +It happened that I had danced with a Miss W——, a very pretty and +attractive girl, whom, later in the evening, I saw dancing with a young +officer whom I will call Eugene, and who, I noticed, appeared very much +_épris_ with the damsel. Next day, to my profound astonishment, I was +placed under arrest, and told that I must appear before the Colonel. When +I did so, he informed me that Eugene had told him that this Miss W—— +had complained to him that I had insulted her. I indignantly protested +my innocence, but the Colonel told me that, though he did not doubt my +word, I must, nevertheless, write a letter to the young lady, asking her +pardon, if I had unintentionally given offence. I wrote the letter and +sent it to Miss W——, but received no reply. + +At a garden-party given by the battalion a few days later, I saw the lady +whom I was supposed to have insulted. I hesitated whether to speak to her +or not, but finally decided that it was best to do so and inquire why +she had not answered my letter. + +“I don’t know why you wrote to me,” said she, “and, to tell you the +truth, I don’t in the least understand what you meant in your letter.” + +I then explained everything to her, when she exclaimed:— + +“I am extremely angry with Eugene. He must have invented what he told +your Colonel, and so soon as I go home, I shall write to Colonel +Montgomery, and tell him that the whole matter is a mere fabrication of +Eugene. I am sorry that you should have suffered through the abominable +untruths of a silly boy.” + +Miss W—— was as good as her word, and the Colonel read her letter to +Eugene and myself, in the presence of all the other officers. He said +that Eugene had acted in a most ungentlemanly manner, and deserved to be +severely punished for spreading about false reports calculated to injure +a brother-officer. He concluded by hinting that the subalterns would best +know how to deal with him. + +The hint, needless to say, was not lost upon these young gentlemen, +and after mess Eugene was informed that he must appear before a +court-martial that evening, in the villa where I lived. The president of +the court-martial was a sub-lieutenant named Basil Montgomery, who was no +relation of the Colonel, but the son of a Scottish baronet. Wilson acted +as prosecutor, while Lovett defended the prisoner. + +Eugene was brought in between two subalterns, and the charges against +him were read to the Court. The principal charge was: “Conduct not +befitting an officer and a gentleman, in having accused a brother-officer +wrongfully, thus subjecting him to arrest and further possible +inconvenience”; but there were several others. The Court found the +prisoner “Guilty,” with no extenuating circumstances, and sentenced +him to receive ten strokes with a cane on his bare back from each +sub-lieutenant, to be sent to Coventry for one month, and not to be +allowed to attend any balls or garden-parties during that period. Eugene +took his punishment very well. The corporal part of it was probably less +hard to endure than the deprivation of all social amusements and the +ostracism to which he was subjected. It had, however, a very beneficial +effect upon him, and he showed afterwards a very noticeable improvement +in every respect. Eugene, I may mention, was a very good horseman, and +rode in steeplechases, both in England and in India. + +Montgomery, who was the president of the court-martial upon Eugene, had +come out to India by the same troopship as myself, but he did not join +the battalion until much later, as he was taken ill at Bombay, where he +had to remain for some weeks. He suffered a good deal, as I had done, +from the change of climate when he first came to Murree. He was a very +fine young fellow, about 6 feet 2 inches in height, and a most perfect +gentleman, though perhaps he put on a little too much “side” at times. A +good many years later, he succeeded to the baronetcy, his brother, who +was in the Guards, having met with an accident which proved fatal. + +After a ball at the Murree Club one night, just as I was preparing to +ride back to my quarters, a tremendous thunderstorm came on. I waited +for some little time, but, as there seemed no immediate prospect of the +storm abating, I decided to face it, but told my syce, who was waiting +for me with my pony, that I would take a short cut home, instead of going +by the usual road. The syce walked in front of me, carrying a lantern to +light up the way, as it was a very dangerous path, with a most fearsome +abyss on one side, and in places so narrow that there was only just room +for a pony to walk along it. Suddenly, the lantern which the syce carried +went out, and, as neither of us had any matches with which to relight +it, we were plunged into total darkness, only relieved from time to time +by flashes of lightning. The pony all of a sudden stood stock still and +refused to go on, and, on dismounting, I saw through a flash of lightning +a tree lying right across the path. I therefore thought it safer to +proceed on foot, leading the pony, while my syce went in front; and we +continued thus for nearly a mile, not knowing whether the next step +would not plunge us into Eternity. But providentially at intervals came +flashes of lightning, which made it easier for us to advance. At last +we reached the end of the path, and made our way to the villa, drenched +to the skin, but heartily thankful to find ourselves in safety. We had, +indeed, had a terrible experience, and when I told Lovett that I had come +home by the short cut, he would hardly believe it possible, as the night +was so dark and the path so narrow. + +During the rainy season Murree was anything but a pleasant spot, for it +rained without intermission for days and nights together, until the place +resembled a wide river. All parades were suspended during the rains, +but the officers had to go out to perform their duties and to mess and +back; and, though we were protected by india-rubber coats and goloshes, +it was very disagreeable. The men’s quarters were, as I have mentioned, +situated at the top of a very steep hill, and although, since Colonel H. +P. Montgomery had been in command of our battalion, he had a zigzag road +constructed, so that the ascent might be made gradually, it was always +rather an undertaking for the orderly officer to ascend the hill after +mess to turn out the guard, and in wet weather it was simply detestable. +The descent, too, was very dangerous, as the road was terribly slippery, +and several accidents happened to both men and officers. + +The officers’ mess was at the foot of this hill, and on a clear day the +view from it was one of the grandest one can possibly imagine, for the +air is so rarefied that it enables one to see further than one could +otherwise. The towering peaks of the Himalayas, plainly visible, despite +the immense distance, the dazzling whiteness of the snow, and the deep +blue of the heavens, made a wonderful picture. But grand as the view is, +I almost prefer that from the Kurhaus, at Ischl, though it is on a much +smaller scale. It is almost like comparing the beauty of an orchid to a +rose, which, though less sublime in its appearance, captivates the senses +far more. There is something foreign in this Oriental scenery, which +appeals less to an Englishman than the exquisite beauty of Switzerland +or the Salzkammergut, in Austria. + +The General at that time commanding the troops in the Punjab was an +extremely popular general and a friend of Royalty, but he had made a +_mésalliance_, having married the divorced wife of a doctor. It was +for this reason that he had been given a command in India, instead of +in England. Lieut.-Colonel Montgomery-Moore, who commanded the 4th +Hussars at Rawal Pindi, and who spent the summer months with his wife at +Murree, did not call on the General’s wife, nor did most of the officers +of that regiment, and, as I had been introduced by my cousin to the +Montgomery-Moores, I felt that I could not well visit the General’s wife. +Several of the officers of my battalion also did not call, though others +were frequent visitors at her house. + +When the General inspected us, our Colonel ordered the band to play _Die +Wacht am Rhein_, which they played the whole time out of deference to the +Colonel, who was a great admirer of all things German. Not that he cared +for the air, for as he himself once said, he could only distinguish two +tunes. One was “God save the Queen,” and the other was any other air, as +he had no ear for music at all. + +At this inspection all the officers were called upon singly to show their +ability in taking command, some of the entire battalion, others of a +company. They nearly all acquitted themselves well, and the General, who +was himself an old Rifleman, complimented the Colonel on the efficiency +and smartness of his battalion, and praised all the officers, N.C.O.’s +and men. + +Our Colonel, as I have said, was a most excellent commanding officer. At +times he would take command of half of the battalion, while the senior +major commanded the other, and imitate the tactics employed in war, in +order to teach the officers and men how they should conduct themselves +in actual warfare. On several of these occasions, I acted as his A.D.C., +and, mounted on my pony, carried his orders to the junior major and +captains, which I much enjoyed. + +The mess-bills of the officers of the battalion were so high during +the year that the War Office complained that they were higher than any +cavalry regiment, averaging £20 to £30 a month. The Colonel therefore +requested the officers to see that they were reduced in future, as it +was not pleasant for him to be accused of encouraging extravagance. +The officers afterwards paid for what they required, and asked that +no champagne should be put down on their mess-bills. A great deal of +champagne was usually drunk at dinner, particularly by the subalterns, +and it cost from fifteen shillings to a sovereign a bottle. Spirits +were very little drunk, and, taken on the whole, the officers were very +temperate, rarely taking more than was good for them. Among the men there +was very little drunkenness compared with other regiments, and not a +single case of desertion; in fact, there were scarcely any prisoners at +all. + +Lovett and I, who were both anxious to see something of Kashmir, obtained +three days’ leave and set off on horseback. The country through which we +rode was very pretty, the fields being beautifully green and besprinkled +with scarlet poppies, while the hedges were covered with white roses. We +passed the first night at a dâk bungalow, and starting at four o’clock +the following morning, in order to avoid the heat of the sun, rode until +midday, and then rested at another dâk bungalow until evening. Resuming +our journey, we presently entered a lovely valley, with a river flowing +through it. This river, the Jhelum, separated British India from Kashmir, +and the view from the dâk bungalow at Kohala, on the Indian side, to +which we made our way, after refreshing ourselves by a swim in the cool +water, was very beautiful. The heat in the bungalow was intense, though +they employed _punkahs_ to relieve the discomfort we suffered, and +towards midnight a terrific storm burst, the crashes of thunder being the +loudest I had ever heard, while the lightning was so vivid that it lit up +the whole of the surrounding country. + +We spent the next day in bathing and fishing in the river Jhelum, and, +after dining at the bungalow at Kohala, walked across the bridge which +spanned the river. On the Kashmir side we found two sentries posted, +who had been placed there by the Maharajah of Kashmir to prevent anyone +unprovided with a pass entering his dominions. These sentries raised +all sorts of difficulties to our entering Kashmir, but we crossed over +all the same, and took a long walk in the country, which was very hilly +and rugged, with very narrow paths. When night came on, we returned to +the bungalow, but, having observed that the two sentries had their beds +placed on the bridge, we determined to get even with them for the trouble +they had given us. Accordingly, we returned to the bridge, carrying two +big buckets full of water, and, finding both the sentries wrapped in +peaceful slumber, dashed the water over them, and then, having thrown +the buckets into the river, ran for our lives. The luckless sentries, +startled out of their sleep, snatched up their rifles and pursued us. +But they failed to overtake us, and we reached the bungalow in safety. +We were somewhat uneasy lest inquiries should be made about us at the +bungalow, but nothing happened during the rest of the night, and in the +early morning we set off on our journey back to Murree. + +On our return to Murree, we decided to say nothing of our escapade in +Kashmir, as if the Colonel got to know of it he would have us placed +under arrest. Phipps, whom I told about it sometime afterwards, remarked +that it might possibly end in officers’ leave to Kashmir being stopped, +but, fortunately, as no one knew who had played the trick upon the +sentries, his fears were not realized. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + + Sialkote—Amateur Theatricals—An Ingenious Thief—Death of Albert + Phipps—Agra—Voyage to England + + +In the autumn of 1874 the other sub-lieutenants and myself had to go +through a course of instruction at Sialkote, in order to qualify as +lieutenants. At Rawal Pindi I called on Mrs. Kinloch, my acquaintance +with whom had been renewed at Murree, where she had been staying. Not +long afterwards, I was shocked to hear that she had gone out of her mind. +She died without recovering her reason. + +Sialkote is by no means a pretty place, being very flat, with few trees +to temper the rays of the sun. Its ugliness was, however, relieved to +some extent by a view of the distant mountains. Although it was autumn, +the heat was intense, and in the daytime almost intolerable. + +Lovett, Montgomery and myself occupied a house, which, though it had +one storey, was very large. We were attached during our stay to the +Royal Horse Artillery (“A” Battery, “A” Brigade) and messed with them. +Our instruction took place in the mornings under Lieutenant Hart, of +the R.E., who put us through a course of surveying, fortification +and tactics. Most of the instruction took place out of doors. Of an +afternoon we generally prepared our work for the following day, and in +the evening we dined at the R.H.A. mess, which was about ten minutes’ +walk from our house. The officers of “A” Battery were very nice fellows, +particularly Captain Hobart, who commanded it, Lieutenant Armytage, and +Veterinary-Surgeon Batchelor, and did all they could to make things +pleasant for us. The evenings at mess, however, were rather dull, as +so few members dined there, though at times they were enlivened by the +presence of guests, generally officers from the 5th Lancers, who, with +two infantry battalions and a regiment of Bengal cavalry, were also +stationed at Sialkote. + +The 5th Lancers were a very lively lot, and their mess was very amusing. +On one occasion, after mess, they dragged a lieutenant over the billiard +table, with the result that the cloth was cut all to pieces by his spurs, +and, not content with this, smashed all the crockery and glass in the +mess-room. One morning, on parade, another lieutenant, who rode very +badly, fell off his horse, whereupon his brother subalterns “ragged” his +room and broke everything they could lay their hands on. The unfortunate +owner, who had not the sweetest of tempers, took their behaviour in very +ill part, and shortly afterwards exchanged into a Highland regiment +stationed at Gibraltar. + +Some of the 5th Lancers were, however, very nice fellows, particularly +two sub-lieutenants named Russell and Beaumont, who were very friendly +with Montgomery and myself, and we often dined all together. + +One evening the sub-lieutenants of my battalion invited Beaumont and +Russell to dine at the R.H.A. mess, and afterwards we all proceeded +to our house, where we had prepared a _nautch_ for them, having sent +to the bazaar for a number of dancing women. These women danced most +fantastic dances, and wound up the entertainment by dancing with some +of the subalterns, who were wearing their white Indian mess uniforms. +The officers of my battalion, I may mention, had adopted a pink silk +sash round the waist, which we wore instead of a waistcoat, owing to the +intense heat. + +The colonel of the 5th Lancers, Lieut.-Colonel Massey, was popular with +all ranks, and one of the captains, Benyon by name, was a most charming +man. C——, another captain, a very ugly, red-haired man, was most clever +and amusing, but much disliked both by his brother-officers and the men +of the regiment. He often dined at the R.H.A. mess, where he entertained +everyone with his stories after dinner. One story which he told was of +a young fellow who was staying at a nobleman’s country house, where a +lady, with whom he was in love, gave him an assignation, and agreed to +put a flower in the keyhole of her door when she retired for the night. +Someone, with a predilection for practical jokes, catching sight of the +flower, removed it and placed it in the keyhole of another door, with the +result that the luckless young fellow invaded the privacy of a judge and +his wife. There was a terrible scandal the next day, and the victim of +this misadventure had to leave the house at once. + +C—— was very fond of botany, and I remember that once, when I happened to +meet him, he showed me a mimosa, which was so sensitive to the touch that +the moment one handled it it drew in its leaves. He came to a tragic end +in South Africa, where he was shot by one of the men of his troop, not, +it was generally believed, accidentally. + +Armytage, the lieutenant in the R.H.A. whom I have already mentioned, +was the son of a baronet and a very pleasant fellow. He had a pet dog +which he used always to bring into the mess-room, and which would perform +tricks. He related how once, when he had been ordered on foreign service, +the captain of the troopship, hearing that he had a dog, objected to his +bringing it on board, as he had made a rule against it. When, however, +Armytage showed him the little dog and made it perform its tricks, the +captain was so amused by them that he said he would make an exception +in this case. Armytage was a good actor, and used to organize amateur +theatricals. One evening, he got up a play, in which he took the leading +part, and acted very well in the comic style. The other parts were taken +by men of “A” Battery, and the performance, to which a good many people +came, was a distinct success. Afterwards, a dance was given in the +mess-room, but, as there were about twenty officers to each lady, it was +more pleasant for the ladies than for us. The sub-lieutenants, indeed, +went away as soon as they could, not being at all attracted by our fair +guests, who were mostly past their first youth, while the few girls +present were very plain. + +There was an excellent polo-ground at Sialkote, and many of the officers +played of an afternoon. There was also a croquet and lawn-tennis ground, +and these games were played a good deal by ladies in very old-fashioned +dresses, as ladies in India, as a rule, dress very badly and quite out of +date. + +The officers rode home from mess of an evening; and I used sometimes to +make my pony “Chang” mount the steps of our house, and enter my room, +after which he would go off alone to the stables. Once at Murree, for a +bet, I rode “Chang” up a long flight of steps to a church and down again, +and he never put a foot wrong. Batchelor, the “vet” of the R.H.A., had a +horse which sometimes, on his reaching the mess-room, he would tell to go +home, when the horse would find its way back to the stables, which were +some distance away. + +Two new sub-lieutenants came to Sialkote to go through the course. One, +named Marsham, an Old Etonian and a very nice fellow, was in my regiment; +the other, whose name was Wood, belonged to the 4th Hussars. He was +nicknamed “Lakri” (“wood”), as he was of rather swarthy complexion. Wood +had a very nice chestnut pony, which he often lent me, and one day Lovett +remarked that I never looked so well as on this pony, which seemed to be +made for me. He had another pony, a smaller one, and this he sold to me. +But it had a very nasty temper, and would sometimes turn its head and try +and bite my feet; while it was continually rearing and kicking, and, in +short, was a regular devil. One evening, when I went to dine at the mess +of a Line regiment, I tied it up to a tree, but it managed to get rid of +its bridle and bolted. It was only with difficulty caught, when I rode it +home again. + +“Eugene,” who had behaved so badly to me over the affair of Miss W——, +was not at Sialkote, having been sent to another station for his course. +While at Murree, he had fallen desperately in love with a Miss B——, and +had proposed to, and been accepted by, her. But, as he was so very young, +and the lady was not considered a desirable match, the Colonel took +the matter up, and the affair was broken off. At the station he went to +he fell in love with another lady, but this did not come to anything +either; and he nearly broke, not his heart, but his neck, there in riding +a steeplechase. However, eventually he recovered from his “smash” and +rejoined the battalion. + +I became very unwell at Sialkote, from what the doctor said was a liver +complaint. However, it did not much interfere with my studies, though I +was confined to the house for some time. During this period a curious +incident occurred. + +One morning, I noticed that a candle, which I had placed by my bedside +and blown out just before I fell asleep, was much shorter than when I had +extinguished it. The following night I carefully noted the length of the +candle before I blew it out, and next morning it was again much shorter. +I could find no explanation of this, as I had locked my bedroom door +before going to bed, until I remembered that there was a small opening at +the bottom of the door, just large enough to permit a person to wriggle +through. But this did not account for the thief having been able to pass +through my sitting-room, which led to the bedroom, and the door of which +I had also locked. I talked the matter over with Lovett, who offered to +lend me his dog, which he said was a very good watch-dog and could sleep +on my bed. I accepted his offer, but the animal had so many fleas that +I was kept awake all night, and decided to dispense with its company in +future. The following night I determined to watch myself, and presently +heard someone crawling through the opening of the door. I at once struck +a light, upon which the intruder promptly crawled back again. Then +everything appeared clear to me. The thief was none other than my bearer, +who had a key to my sitting-room, which he opened, and then, crawling +through the opening in the bedroom-door, made for my candle, which he +abstracted and replaced by a much smaller piece. The natives are great +pilferers, who will not stop at robbing one even of a piece of candle. + +One day, as I was sitting in my room, reading a book by Jean Paul, it +seemed to me that suddenly the room began to swing to and fro. It proved +to be an earthquake, which, however, did no damage to the town, though it +gave everyone a bad fright. + +Soon after I was able to get about again there was an interval of three +weeks in our course at Sialkote, and all the sub-lieutenants went away +on leave. Montgomery went to Murree, while Lovett and Marsham started +off on a shooting-expedition. The battalion, which was taking part in +the autumn manœuvres, was under canvas near Rawal Pindi, and I accepted +an invitation to stay with Surgeon-Major Macnamara and his wife in their +tent. The first evening I dined with them I noticed that I was served +with precisely the dishes I liked, whilst those I did not care for were +not handed to me at all. I inquired of Mrs. Macnamara the reason of this, +when she replied:— + +“I asked your _khitmagar_ when you arrived what you liked for dinner, and +what you did not like. Therefore, you see, I know now exactly what your +taste is.” + +Indeed, nothing could exceed the Macnamaras’ kindness to me during the +whole time I was with them. + +A couple of days later, Phipps invited me to go for a drive with him, +during which he told me that he was returning to England on leave, when +he would get his promotion, and he doubted whether he would ever come out +to India again. That evening, after dining at mess, I was taken ill, when +Surgeon-Major Macnamara, who attended me, said that I was suffering from +jaundice, and should have to stay in bed some time. During my illness I +received visits from one of the senior lieutenants named Hope, a grandson +of Lord Hopetoun, who brought me several books to read, amongst them +being “Cranford,” by Mrs. Gaskell, which he particularly recommended to +me, and with which I was delighted. Lloyd, another senior lieutenant, +with the local rank of captain, often came to see me. He was a very +dark, wiry fellow, of about thirty, and was a great sportsman. He was +going into the Indian Staff Corps, as he spoke several native languages +fluently. Lloyd was a particular friend of mine, and corresponded with me +regularly for years afterwards. + +One morning, I had a visit from Macnamara, who told me that Phipps +had been taken seriously ill with congestion of the lungs, the result +apparently of a chill which he had caught on the day I went for a drive +with him. A few days later, I learned from Lloyd that Phipps had died +during the night. When I next saw Macnamara, he remarked:— + +“Phipps was so stout; I knew I could not save him. He died from +suffocation, as he had such a short neck.” + +When I was well enough to dine at mess again, I heard from the Colonel +that, shortly before Phipps was taken ill, he had been told by the chief +that his tunic was looking rather shabby, to which he had replied:— + +“Oh, sir, it’s good enough to bury me in!” + +He had laughed as he said this, which was a habit of his when he made any +remark which was at all strange. + +A cable was sent to Queen Victoria, as well as to Phipps’s sister, +announcing his death. Her Majesty cabled at once to the Colonel, asking +for all particulars about the sad event, at which she appears to have +been genuinely grieved. + +I was much cut up by Phipps’s death, and I felt it all the more keenly, +as I had been with him so recently. I remember how on that occasion he +had kept talking of his approaching return to England, and had observed:— + +“I should have liked it very much in years gone by, but now I do not look +forward to it with half the pleasure I did then; it may be because I have +all my friends out here. I am so used to living out here with all the +fellows, and they are all so nice, that I don’t think I should go home +now if I had not to do so.” + +Poor Phipps was buried in his old tunic, as he had foretold in a jesting +way to the Colonel. He was barely thirty years of age. + +After I had quite recovered from jaundice, I returned to Sialkote, +which I did with regret, as I would have much preferred remaining with +my regiment. At Sialkote things went on very much as before, the only +incident worth recording being an accident to my pony “Chang.” + +This pony, which I had bought soon after coming to Murree from Sydenham +Clarke, the adjutant of our battalion, had the reputation of being the +best polo-pony in India, and one day Lovett begged me to lend him to him +for a match in which he was to play. I replied that “Chang” was not up to +his weight, and that he would probably lame him; but, eventually, on his +promising most solemnly to ride him carefully, I consented, though with +many misgivings. Some hours later Lovett came into my room, looking very +crestfallen. I knew at once what had happened, and exclaimed:— + +“You have lamed “Chang!” + +“Yes,” he answered; “I am frightfully sorry; I could not help it.” + +I ran out of the room to see the pony, who was so lame that there was no +chance of his being of much service afterwards. However, it was no use +blaming Lovett, since it was my own fault for being so weak as to allow a +valuable animal to be ridden by a man too heavy for him. + +After this mishap, I was obliged to ride my little devil of a pony when I +required a mount at Sialkote, though at times Lovett lent me his horse, +while at others Wood lent me his good-looking chestnut pony. I made Wood +an offer for this pony, but he declined to part with it at any price. + +I continued to suffer from liver complaint, and was attended by +Surgeon-Major Clarke, of the R.H.A., who advised me to try and get sent +to England. I subsequently saw the senior medical officer at Sialkote, +who said that I ought to obtain leave either to the hills or to England. +I appeared before a medical board, who certified in writing that my +illness was caused in and by the Service. + +The Chief Resident at Sialkote offered me the Maharajah of Kashmir’s +shooting, which was usually reserved for royal personages, and which the +Prince of Wales had when in India; but Montgomery urged me strongly +to go to England, and I followed his advice. I had afterwards, as the +ensuing pages will show, good cause to regret my decision. + +Before leaving Sialkote, I made arrangements to sell the things I did +not want; but, on showing the list I had made out to Batchelor, of +the R.H.A., he told me that I ought to have described them far more +elaborately, so as to enhance their apparent value. I asked if he would +describe them for me, which he did, and, greatly to my amusement, made +everything appear infinitely better than it really was. However, he said +that they would make much better prices that way, which I found to be the +case when the sale took place. My pony “Chang” I sold to Montgomery, as +he had partially recovered from his lameness. + +On leaving Sialkote, I went by rail to Delhi, where I visited the Palace, +which I thought very beautiful. At Delhi I called on the officers of a +Line regiment stationed there, and was invited to make use of their mess +during my stay in the city, where great preparations were being made for +an approaching Durbar. I left a few days later for Cawnpore, and visited +the places by the river where the British were massacred during the +Mutiny. On my way from Cawnpore to Agra, I made the acquaintance of a +French cavalry officer, the Vicomte Arthur d’Assailly, of the Chasseurs +à Cheval, a very smart-looking fellow, more like an Englishman than a +Frenchman, who spoke English perfectly. The Vicomte told me that at +Cawnpore he had paid several hundred rupees for a _nautch_ in his room, +which he had strewn with rose-leaves. On reaching Agra, we drove to our +hotel through the Bazaar, and in the evening went to visit the Taj, with +which we were quite enchanted. It was the most magnificent building I +had ever seen. The marble of which it was constructed was of the purest +white, and seen by moonlight, which enhanced the whiteness of the marble, +it was indescribably beautiful; while the deep blue of the starlit +heavens formed a delightful contrast. It was, in fact, just like a palace +of “The Arabian Nights”; and while strolling about the charming gardens +we could almost imagine ourselves living in the days of the Khalif +Haroun Alraschid. + +In the train going to Bombay I met an officer of the Rifle Brigade, named +Captain Crompton, a man of about thirty-five, with grey hair, who was +going home on sick leave. But as, he told me, he was rather doubtful +about being able to pass the medical board at Bombay, he intended to +appear before them just as he was, without going to his hôtel to change +and wash, considering that he would look more like an invalid in that +travel-stained condition. + +He was as good as his word, and obtained six months’ sick leave without +any trouble. As for myself, I went to Watson’s Hotel, where I was glad +to have a bath and change my clothes, as the journey had been a most +unpleasant one, and I was begrimed with dirt. On appearing before the +board, the senior medical officer asked me various questions, to which +I must have answered too laconically to please him, for presently he +inquired sarcastically:— + +“And what may your rank be; I suppose general or colonel at the least?” + +“No,” I replied; “I am only a sub-lieutenant.” + +“Oh, indeed! I thought from your manner that you were at least in command +of a regiment.” + +However, after a brief examination, I was informed that I could go, and +that I had been granted six months’ leave to England, as my illness was +caused in and by the Service. + +At Watson’s Hotel I met d’Assailly again, who told me a good deal about +himself. It appeared that he was a rich man, having an income of some +£6,000 a year, and was amusing himself by travelling round the world. +He had already visited Japan, Ceylon and Java, the last of which he +considered by far the most beautiful of the three countries, and, as +regards vegetation, truly marvellous. He admitted that Ceylon was lovely, +but, in his opinion, it could not compare with Java, the natives of which +he also preferred to the Cingalese. + +I was very glad to leave Bombay in 1875, though, as I disliked the sea +very much, I was not looking forward to the voyage to England with any +pleasurable anticipations. Among the passengers on board the troopship +were Captain Crompton, a Lieutenant Howard, who belonged to the Rifle +Brigade, and Viscount Campden, of the 10th Hussars, whose younger +brother, the Hon. H. Noel, was in the same battalion of the Rifle Brigade +as Crompton and Howard. Lord Campden, who was an amiable young man, with +a slight figure and reddish hair, occupied himself during the voyage by +reading Darwin’s “Natural Selection,” which was seldom out of his hand, +and did not talk much with anyone, with the exception of Crompton. + +There was a battalion of infantry on board, under the command of a +Lieutenant-Colonel Rose, who had his wife and daughter with him. The +latter, who was a charming little girl of thirteen, with golden hair and +blue eyes, took such a violent fancy to Howard that the other officers +used to chaff him and inquire whether he intended to wait until she grew +up to marry her. Howard was a tall, good-looking fellow, with a fair +moustache, and he seemed rather pleased than otherwise by the little +lady’s infatuation. + +The captain of the ship complained of Crompton dining in evening clothes, +and requested him to appear in uniform in future. Crompton answered +that he had no uniform on board, as he had come out to India to work as +a civil engineer. But the captain would take no excuse, and insisted +on his wearing uniform at dinner and also on deck. Crompton thereupon +asked me if I could lend him part of my uniform, as it only differed +in the facings, the facings of one regiment’s mess-jacket being black +velvet, and those of the other scarlet, braided with black lace, like the +Hussars. The uniform of both regiments was the same, supposed to be a +dark green, but really black. I therefore lent him part of my uniform, as +I had more than I required on board; but when he appeared in it at mess +and on deck, the captain at first believed that it was his own, and that +he had purposely avoided wearing it, and he had to explain that he had +been obliged to borrow from me. + +During the voyage I was a good deal with Crompton, and had many +interesting talks with him on all kinds of topics. He told me that +his mother, who was dead, had published a translation of the poems of +Heinrich Heine, which was considered to be the best that had appeared +up to that time. She had held that this life was but a preparation for +the one to come, and that whatever we cultivated in this existence, we +should excel in in the next, and said that he was firmly convinced of the +truth of this. He was a very clever man and had invented an automobile +for the conveyance of troops, which he had sold to the Russian Government +for £4,000, as the War Office would not pay him the price he asked. His +knowledge, too, was astonishingly varied. Thus, when we touched at Malta, +some of the ladies on board showed him the lace they had bought and told +him the price they had paid for it, upon which he said that they had been +imposed upon. For it appeared that he knew more about lace and how to +make it than any lady on the ship, and I saw him showing them stitches +which were quite new to them. + +There were, of course, a number of invalids on board, some of whom were +very ill indeed. I occupied a cabin with a lieutenant of the 11th Hussars +named Reid, who was in rapid consumption. He was a good-looking young +fellow, with, dark-brown curly hair, and very much liked by everyone. He +survived the voyage, as did a sergeant-major of the R.H.A., whom no one +had expected to live until we reached England; but several other persons +died, and were buried at sea. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + + Baroness James Édouard de Rothschild—At Carlsbad—Transferred to + the 3rd Battalion + + +At Portsmouth, I was met by my father and Ernest Berkeley, a son of Lord +Berkeley, who some time afterwards obtained a commission in my regiment, +and with them I travelled to Paris and stayed for a few days with my +parents in the Champs-Elysées. I then started for Carlsbad, where I had +been recommended to take the waters for my complaint. On leaving Paris, +I found myself in the same carriage with an elderly English lady, a +Mrs. Michell, and her daughter, whose acquaintance I made. They were on +their way to Marienbad, as the mother was abnormally stout and anxious +to reduce her weight, life, she told me, being a torment to her. At +Nüremberg, a rather nice-looking woman entered our carriage, with a very +smart footman in attendance, who carried an immense bouquet of flowers, +which he deposited beside his mistress. This lady, it transpired, was the +Baroness James Édouard de Rothschild, who had been spending the night at +Nüremberg, and was also _en route_ for Marienbad. The Baroness entered +into conversation with us, and was very pleasant. She spoke English +almost perfectly, having spent nearly half her life in England, though +she was now living with her family in Paris. She had, she told us, been +ordered to take the waters at Marienbad, as she was inclined to be very +stout, and had sent on fourteen servants from Paris to get everything +ready for her. + +I got out at Carlsbad and drove to the Hôtel Goldenes Schild, which was +in those days the principal hôtel. Next morning I consulted Dr. Ritter +von Hochberg, the doctor of the German Emperor, who was a very nice old +man, and who told me to drink two full glasses of the Schloss Brunn +waters and then walk for half an hour in the country every morning before +breakfast. I followed his instructions and, after drinking the waters, +walked out to the Posthof, where I breakfasted in the open air at a +very good restaurant, being served by a pretty young Austrian girl, who +was very tastefully dressed, with her hair arranged in quite the latest +fashion. The walk back to my hôtel, along the banks of a river, which +flowed through a delightfully picturesque valley, I enjoyed immensely. + +While dining one evening at the Hôtel König von Hannover, I made the +acquaintance of a Mrs. Andrews, an elderly American lady, who was very +rich and lived in an apartment in the English quarter of Carlsbad. She +asked me to come and see her at her rooms, which were very comfortable, +and where she gave me a cup of English tea. Mrs. Andrews was very fond of +taking drives into the country, and often invited me to accompany her. +One day she introduced me to Freiherr von Klenck, the son of Baron von +Klenck, who had been a great favourite of the late King of Hanover and +always with him. Klenck, who was in a Hanoverian cavalry regiment, was a +man of about thirty, with a fair moustache. He detested Prussians, and +once, when I asked him if he would care to meet an officer in a Prussian +Line regiment whose acquaintance I had made, he replied:— + +“It is all very well for you to know him, as you are not a German. But I +could not be seen with him. First of all, he is a Prussian, and then he +is in a Line regiment, so that I could not go about with him, since I am +in a cavalry regiment, as you know.” + +I usually met Mrs. Andrews and Klenck at the Hôtel König von Hannover, +where we would engage a small table and dine together, going after to +Sans-Souci or the Posthof to hear the military concert, which was very +fine indeed. The band which played there was that of the 35th Regiment +König von Hannover, an Austrian military band, which had won the first +prize at Brussels in the competition for military bands of all nations. +It was composed of fifty men, and played the most difficult music of +Wagner in the most brilliant manner, besides playing lighter music in a +way which quite delighted me. In fact, it put all the military bands, +English, French and German, that I had ever heard completely in the +shade. A principal feature was that there were two men who played the +cymbals, and that the big drum was an insignificant item, the side-drum +being far more used. Sometimes, the band would play at Pupp’s Café of an +afternoon, while the people were taking their coffee at little tables. On +these occasions, a fee of fifty kreuzers was charged for admission, and +there was always great difficulty in securing seats. + +The Kurkapelle, or string band, which played on most days of the week, +under the direction of the famous bandmaster, Auguste Labitzky, was one +of the finest string bands in Europe. Every Friday afternoon Labitzky +organized a classical concert at Posthof, for which an admission fee of +fifty kreuzers was charged. One day was consecrated to Wagner, another +to Mozart, a third to Beethoven, and on a fourth a programme of mixed +classical music was performed. + +The places where afternoon coffee was taken were all in the country, +people sitting at little tables under the trees. At Pupp’s Café the +waitresses had their Christian names, Mizzi, Fanni, Resi, and so forth, +pinned on to their dresses. These girls were for the most part very +pretty and pleasant-mannered. One gentleman, after having finished his +cure at Carlsbad, received about twenty bouquets of beautiful flowers, +which were all placed on his breakfast-table at Pupp’s by the girls +serving there. People said that it must have cost him at least a hundred +florins in _douceurs_ to the waitresses. + +When I asked my doctor how much I was in his debt, he told me that he +left the matter entirely to me. So I put forty florins in an envelope, +which the doctor declined even to open in my presence, saying that he +felt sure that I had remunerated his services sufficiently. + +After a cure of three weeks, I left Carlsbad for Franzensbad, for the +after-cure, which my doctor had advised my taking. Here I secured very +comfortable rooms in a villa with a beautiful garden behind it, agreeing +to pay a fixed price per week for board and lodging. Shortly afterwards, +the proprietress informed me that, had she but known that I was an +Englishman, she would have asked me very much more than she had. She +appeared very much annoyed, and, I am afraid, never forgave me for not +having acquainted her with my nationality at our first interview. + +I thought Franzensbad a very charming place, with its pretty villas with +gardens attached to them; but the walks could not compare with those +around Carlsbad. I was so tired after taking the waters at Carlsbad that +I rested the whole time I was at Franzensbad, merely taking iron baths, +which I found perfectly delightful. It was like bathing in champagne, +as the water sparkled and gave one a tickling kind of sensation. The +visitors at Franzensbad were chiefly ladies, but I made the acquaintance +of a young Bavarian officer, Freiherr von Rüdt, who was very musical and +played the violin beautifully, and used to meet him nearly every day at +the concert in the Kurpark. The Kurkapelle used to play at one or other +of the hôtels during supper, and I often went to these concerts. The +bandmaster, Tomaschek, was a very good conductor and a great favourite +with the ladies, who often sent him presents. + +During my stay at Franzensbad I paid a visit to Marienbad, where I +renewed my acquaintance with Mrs. Michell and her daughter. I thought +Marienbad even more beautiful than Carlsbad, surrounded as it was by +woods and hills. The walks around it were really exquisite, and nothing +could be more pleasant than to take a walk in the woods on a summer’s day +and have coffee and listen to the band at one of the cafés. + +On my return to Franzensbad I took a few more baths, and then left for +Paris, where I received a letter from the War Office, informing me that +I had been transferred to the 3rd Battalion of my regiment, which was +stationed at Chatham. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII + + My Brother-Officers—A _Mésalliance_—Christy Minstrels and + Tobogganing + + +It was through the influence of the Adjutant-General, Lord Airey, that I +had been transferred to the 3rd Battalion of the 60th Rifles, in June, +1875. On joining, I went into the officers’ ante-room, where a short, +stout officer, wearing an eyeglass, addressed me, and inquired how I had +managed to get transferred. I told him that it was through the A.-G., +when he remarked: + +“How is it that I was not consulted?” + +“I really cannot tell you,” I answered. + +“H’m!” said he, transfixing me with his monocle. + +A few minutes afterwards, when he had left the room, another officer came +up to me, and said:— + +“Do you know who that is?” + +“No.” + +“That is our chief, Lieutenant-Colonel W. Leigh-Pemberton.” + +“Is it really?” said I. “I should never have thought it, for he looks too +young for a colonel.” + +“You have put your foot into it, evidently,” replied the officer, who +appeared highly amused at what had happened. His name, he told me, was +Corbet Stapleton-Cotton, and he was a lieutenant of some years’ service. + +I had a room in barracks close to Cotton’s, and, after my things had +been unpacked, I dressed for mess. During mess I again exchanged a few +words with the Colonel, who evidently looked upon me as an intruder, +since he addressed me in a very distant manner. I was introduced to the +acting adjutant, E. O. H. Wilkinson (the adjutant, Lieutenant Bagot, +had been suspended from that post by the Colonel), whom I had known at +Eton, but had never cared for much. Wilkinson, who was a tall, dark man, +with a slight squint, a long body and very short legs, imparted to me +the pleasing information that I should have to begin my drill all over +again from the commencement, at seven o’clock the following morning, +so that I was likely to be kept well employed for some little time to +come. I also made the acquaintance of my captain, Cramer, who was a +middle-aged man with grey hair. He had little to say for himself, and was +not remarkable for his amiability, but was very musical, and played the +piano wonderfully well, though entirely by ear. Amongst other officers +with whom I spoke that evening were a sub-lieutenant named Robert Gunning +and a lieutenant called Allfrey. Gunning, who, like Cramer, in whose +company he was, had been at Eton with me, though I had only known him +very slightly there, was a rather good-looking little fellow, and a great +favourite of the Colonel, who called him “Cupid,” and often invited him +to his quarters. Allfrey was a tall, burly man, with dark curly hair, who +was very loud in both his dress and conversation, which was usually about +horses. He was a great admirer of Thackeray’s works, and declared that +“Vanity Fair” was the best novel in the English language, and that he had +read it over and over again without growing tired of it. + +Allfrey was a particular friend of Cotton, and I soon discovered that +these two officers were the _bêtes-noires_ of the Colonel, who, it was +said, could not even endure the sound of their voices, and would give +anything in the world to get rid of them both. Our chief’s dislike, +however, was by no means confined to Cotton and Allfrey. Two senior +lieutenants, named Holled-Smith and Allen, and a captain called Robinson, +had also the misfortune to be objects of his antipathy, a fact which he +was never at any pains to disguise. + +Holled-Smith was a fine-looking man, clever and entertaining, but with +a somewhat brusque manner. He had a very good baritone voice, which he +cultivated by taking singing lessons, and he sang some songs very well. +Allen and Robinson were both singular characters. The former, who was +expecting his company, was a queer-looking fellow, with a partially-bald +head and a peculiarly vacant expression. He was always highly perfumed, +so that you knew when he happened to be near you, before you saw him. +His dress was very eccentric, and his manner too. He was perpetually +muttering to himself, and would gesticulate in the most weird fashion +when no one was talking to him. Robinson, who was nicknamed “Rabelais,” +as he was always reading that author’s works, was a kind of Hercules, +and was the eldest son of a baronet and the grandson of an Irish earl. +He was very eccentric, and would suddenly—for no apparent reason—throw +himself into the most violent passions, and indulge in language at which +even a private soldier would be horrified. Strangely enough, he appeared +to have little or no idea of the effect of these outbursts upon those who +had the misfortune to be present: probably, he hardly knew what he was +saying. It was related that, upon one occasion, he used this terrible +language before a lady, who incontinently took to flight. “Rabelais” +inquired afterwards why the lady had left so abruptly, and, on being +told, remarked that she must have been uncommonly prudish. + +These two strange creatures disliked each other even more than the +Colonel did them. One evening at mess, soon after I joined the battalion, +I noticed that, though they were sitting next each other, they never +exchanged a word the whole evening. I remarked upon this to one of the +other officers, when I was told that they had not spoken to one another +for years. + +The senior major, Northey, was a very tall, dark man, who was an +excellent soldier and understood his work thoroughly; but, unfortunately, +his hands were tied by the Colonel, who seldom condescended to approve +of anything he did. He was married to the daughter of a Polish nobleman, +a refugee, whom he had met when the battalion was stationed in Canada. +Major Northey was popular with the men, and liked by the officers, but +he had no influence at all. + +The junior major, Collins, who was stout and wore an eyeglass, was also a +married man. His wife was a sister of a bishop, and it was she who held +the ribbons. Collins would have made a much better bishop than he did +a field-officer, for he was a bad rider, who always felt uncomfortable +on horseback, and, what is more, looked so. He seldom ventured on any +observation concerning military matters before the Colonel, as when he +did so, he generally got snubbed. The major took a great fancy to me, and +often invited me to his house, where I sometimes met the bishop, who was +delighted with my zither and paid me many compliments on my playing. + +Tufnell, the senior captain, was a gentleman who entertained a +superlatively high opinion of himself. He must have been very handsome +when young, but was now somewhat “_fané_.” He was very much in love with +a girl named Miss Finis, the daughter of a butcher in Chatham, who, +some years before, had been in love with my friend, Arthur Dillon. Poor +Dillon, alas! was no more, having been thrown out of a Ralli car and +killed while stationed at Colchester. “He was such a good fellow, and a +very promising officer,” said Captain Byron, in the letter he wrote to me +in India, to inform me of the sad event. + +Tufnell was so infatuated with Miss Finis that it was generally believed +that he would end by marrying her. Nor was he the only officer in the +battalion who was contemplating a _mésalliance_. There was another +captain, called Carpenter, who was desperately in love with a pretty +little shop-girl, who was only about sixteen. At first, the Colonel +objected to Carpenter going about with this damsel, but when he learned +that he was determined to marry her, he said nothing more, as Carpenter +was a great friend of his. Carpenter retired some months afterwards, and +married his little girl, who, I was told, made him a very good wife. His +retirement was much regretted, as he was very popular with both officers +and men. + +The nicest captain in the battalion was de Robeck, who had been on the +Staff of the Earl of Mayo, when Viceroy of India. He was a brother of +Baron de Robeck, whom I already knew. De Robeck was a rather shy man, +and dreadfully afraid of offending the Colonel. As time seemed only to +accentuate the bad impression which I had been so unfortunate as to make +upon our chief at our first meeting, partly owing to the fact that I was +obliged to be a good deal in the company of Cotton and Holled-Smith, +whose quarters adjoined my own, I told de Robeck that I thought it would +be best for me to exchange into another battalion. He, however, advised +me not to do so, observing:— + +“The Colonel cannot stay with us very much longer, and in the 1st +Battalion, into which you wish to exchange, they have a Colonel, Colonel +Gordon, who, I am told, is much worse than ours. I hear that he has been +the cause of no less than ten officers leaving the battalion, and the +cases of desertion among the riflemen can hardly be counted.” + +I told him that the Colonel of the 1st was soon retiring, while our chief +would remain with us for another three years, which had to be taken into +consideration. + +“No,” he replied, “he has only two years more, thank God!” + +I was always much influenced by what de Robeck told me, and generally +followed his advice. I did so in this instance, but had I acted +otherwise, it would have been much better for me. + +Among the senior lieutenants was one named Wylie, an absurdly pompous +individual, who was disliked by both officers and men. One day, when +I happened to be orderly officer, I had just come off parade and was +standing by the officers’ mess, when Wylie passed by. I wished him +good-morning, but, because I did not salute him at the same time, +though it was off the parade-ground, he reported me to the Colonel, who +reprimanded me. Wylie was married to the sister of a recently-created +peer, who, on the strength of this relationship, gave herself ridiculous +airs, and was almost as pompous as her husband. + +Arthur Greville Bagot, an old Etonian, who was adjutant of the battalion +by appointment, though, as I mentioned, suspended, was a very different +kind of officer from Wylie. He was highly connected, being the cousin of +a duke and the nephew of a peer, and was a thorough gentleman in every +way. He was a very good-looking man, and when not in uniform, always +dressed very smartly in the latest fashion. An excellent soldier, he kept +the men in first-rate order, which Wilkinson never could do, and, as he +was rather a friend of mine, he invariably took my part with the Colonel, +with whom he was on pretty good terms. + +As there was very little going on at Chatham at any time in the way +of amusement, Bagot organized from the battalion a troupe of Christy +Minstrels, he himself taking the part of “Bones.” I was asked to do my +share, to which I willingly consented. We gave a performance in Chatham, +which turned out a great success, a number of people having to be refused +admission. The officers and men blackened their faces, and when I wished +to re-enter Chatham Barracks, the sentry refused to let me pass, until +I told him who I was. We gave a second performance at Chatham, which +was so well attended that we agreed to engage the theatre at Gravesend +and give an entertainment there. The result exceeded our most sanguine +expectations, the theatre being crammed, while over four hundred people +were turned away from the doors. Bagot made most amusing jokes, and sang +several very good comic songs; Carpenter gave a solo on the concertina, +besides singing in the chorus, and my performance on the zither was +warmly applauded, and I got an encore. The _ensemble_ was excellent for +that style of entertainment; quite as good as any professional troupe, +and the singing was above the average. + +During the winter we had a heavy fall of snow, and, as most of the +officers of the battalion had served in Canada, and had done a great +deal of tobogganing there, this amusement was indulged in down the hill +close to the mess. The toboggans were made to contain two persons, one +sitting behind, and the other between his legs in front; and many of the +officers would place a lady in front of them on their toboggans, and come +down the hill at a terrific pace, the ladies sometimes giving vent to +piercing shrieks, from fear of getting a spill. Now and again a toboggan +would upset, and send its occupants flying; but, as they usually fell +into the snow banked up on either side of the track, it was very rarely +that they were in the least hurt. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + + Sarah Bernhardt in _Phèdre_—Vienna and Buda-Pesth + + +When I got my winter’s leave, I started for Paris, to see my parents; +intending afterwards to visit Vienna and Buda-Pesth. On the last evening +of my stay in Paris, I went to the Théâtre-Français, to see Sarah +Bernhardt and Mounet Sully in _Phèdre_. The latter’s acting was very +fine, but Sarah Bernhardt was simply magnificent. The way in which she +recited Racine’s lines in her charming, musical voice, with its pretty +timbre, was a real pleasure to listen to; while in the last scene she +rose to the supreme heights of tragedy. I do not think I was ever more +delighted in my life with a theatrical performance than I was with the +splendid acting that night at the Théâtre-Français, as it surpassed all +my expectations. + +On my journey to Vienna next day, I had as a travelling companion an +Austrian gentleman called Herr Neuss, who, on my happening to mention my +visit to the Théâtre-Français the previous evening, observed that, in his +opinion, the Burg Theatre, in Vienna, was the first theatre in Europe, +and invited me to accompany him one evening to see a play of Shakespeare +acted there. Herr Neuss told me that, from the way I spoke German, he +had at first taken me for a German student, and that he was surprised to +learn that I was an officer of the British Army. + +On my arrival in Vienna, which was enveloped in a white mantle of snow, +I went to the Hôtel Matschakerhof, which had been recommended to me, +and which I found very comfortable. I lost no time in calling on Herr +Neuss, who presented me to his wife and their three young and pretty +daughters, who were quite charming. I was invited to return to supper, +and afterwards two of the girls played on two grand pianos which stood in +the drawing-room. They both played beautifully, and had evidently been +most admirably taught. An evening or two later, I went with Herr Neuss +to the Burg Theatre, to witness a performance of _Romeo and Juliet_, +which was wonderfully well staged. The part of Juliet was played by +Fräulein Frank, a very good-looking brunette, who acted well, though in +the very tragic scenes she occasionally showed too much emotion. Another +evening I saw Fräulein Frank in the _Jungfrau von Orléans_, a part which +suited her infinitely better than that of Juliet; and in which she was +truly marvellous. I also saw the celebrated Charlotte Wolter in _Richard +III._, in which play Lewinsky took the part of the King. I was very +much impressed by the latter’s acting, but I was decidedly disappointed +with Charlotte Wolter, whom I considered inferior to Fräulein Frank, +though the public thought otherwise. Wolter, indeed, in the opinion of +the Viennese, was an ideal actress, and, in certain plays, they even +preferred her to Sarah Bernhardt. + +I was charmed with the military concerts at Vienna. Of an afternoon I +several times went to the Volksgarten, where the people sat at little +tables sipping coffee and smoking cigarettes. The military band, the Hoch +and Deutschmeister, which played, was a string band, and the solo players +were all very good. I was quite delighted with the way the band played +a march, so differently from the sleepy fashion in which our English +military bands played one. As is always the practice with an Austrian +military band, when playing marches, a great deal of use was made of +the cymbals in forte parts. They also played waltzes delightfully, and +polkas with the proper rhythm, which so seldom happens. The Hoch and +Deutschmeister played the most difficult music from the _Nibelungen +Ring_, of Wagner, equally well, but their chief success was with light +music, in which they were unrivalled. + +On Sundays Johann Strauss’s band played in the Musikverein’s Saal, under +its accomplished conductor, who always charmed the audience with its +beautiful waltzes and inspiriting polkas. Yet everyone said that his +band was very inferior to the string bands of the regiments stationed in +Vienna. I heard Johann Strauss’s band play more than once, and though I +was pleased with it, the military band had far more attraction for me. + +I paid a visit one evening to Schwender’s, a dancing-hall, where, to the +strains of a military band, people danced till the small hours of the +morning, and was struck with the orderly manner in which those present +conducted themselves. It was a great contrast to the scenes witnessed at +similar resorts in England in those days, where drunkenness amongst both +sexes was a common feature. + +The Opera House, whose orchestra was quite the finest in Europe, had, of +course, a great fascination for me. Wagner was then directing his operas, +_Tannhäuser_ and _Lohengrin_, and they were admirably rendered. Fräulein +Ehnn and Frau Materna created the chief women’s rôles, and Winkelmann +and Ritter were the leading tenors. A great feature at the Opera was +the ballet, in which the _première danseuse_, Bertha Linda, delighted +everyone with her graceful dancing, while the _corps de ballet_ was +excellent. Bertha Linda married the celebrated artist Makart, at that +time the greatest painter in Austria. + +From Vienna I went to Buda-Pesth, where I stayed at the Hôtel Königin +von England. On the evening of my arrival, a gipsy band began playing +during dinner, and continued until long past midnight. They played in a +really wonderful manner, and collected a great deal of money. I visited +the “Nepsinház” and other theatres in Pesth, and one evening went to a +dancing-hall, where I saw the Csárdas danced most beautifully, and made +the acquaintance of a young girl of fourteen or fifteen, named Tournay +Wilma, a pupil at the theatre, who had a lovely contralto voice. She +accompanied me back to my hôtel, and sang to me until the small hours of +the morning. + +I thought Buda-Pesth beautifully situated, with the Emperor’s castle at +Buda, and the Danube flowing between the two towns, but I would have +infinitely preferred to live in Vienna, which is a far finer city. On my +return there, I went several times to the Opera to hear _Manfred_, _Don +Juan_ and _Figaro’s Hochzeit_, and then, after calling on Herr Neuss and +his family, bade farewell to this most charming of capitals. + +I may mention that, during my stay in Vienna, I took lessons on the +zither from the celebrated Paschinger, who was quite a brilliant +performer on that instrument, besides being a good violinist, and played +the violin and occasionally the zither at one of the principal theatres, +where he was first violinist. I also invested in a zither-table, which I +purchased at Kiendl’s, who made the best zithers in Europe. + +While in Vienna and Buda-Pesth, I was much impressed by the appearance +of the troops I saw. Among the cavalry, which was then considered the +finest in Europe, the Hussars struck me as being remarkably well mounted, +while the officers’ uniform was very smart. The Dragoons, whose officers +were mostly of the nobility, as were those of the Lancers, were also well +mounted; while the Arciren Guards, who corresponded to our Life Guards, +were a fine body of men, in green uniforms with red facings. There were +at this time, in the Austrian Army, sixteen regiments of Hussars, the +same number of Lancer regiments, and twelve regiments of Dragoons. The +Hussars were all Hungarians, the Dragoons Austrians, and the Lancers +Bohemians and Poles. The infantry was also very fine, and the uniform of +the officers, though they wore no gold lace at all, very smart. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV + + Percy Hope-Johnstone—A “Special” to Aldershot—A Costume-Ball at + Folkestone + + +Soon after my return to Chatham, my company had to go to Gravesend +for a course of musketry. The officers who went were Cramer, Gunning +and myself. We had to superintend the shooting of the men, though the +musketry instructor, a lieutenant named Hope-Johnstone, was also present. +Percy Hope-Johnstone, who was very popular with everyone, was a fine, +powerfully-built man, and a very good shot, both with gun and rifle. +He took great interest in the men’s shooting, and was a most capable +instructor. He was the heir to a baronetcy, and in later years laid claim +to the peerage of Annandale, but his claim was not successful. + +One day, Hope-Johnstone lent me his horse on the range, and the animal, +not being accustomed to so light a weight, bolted with me, and set off +at a furious gallop through the town. Fortunately, however, he soon ran +himself out, and stopped of his own accord. + +Hope-Johnstone often went with Gunning and myself for walks in the +country around Gravesend. On one occasion, when we were sitting by the +Thames, he said to us:— + +“Supposing neither of you had any money at all. What would you do to +learn a living?” + +Gunning replied that he should become an actor; and they both said that +they were sure that I could play the zither at concerts, and make a good +deal of money by this. Then Hope-Johnstone remarked:— + +“I know what I should do. I am a very fine fellow, well-built, rather +imposing in appearance. Therefore, I should be a footman, which is a +devilish easy life, nothing to do and plenty to eat and drink.” + +Hope-Johnstone told me that he had a younger brother in the Guards, who +had told him that he was not allowed to recognize in London officers of +other regiments whom he had met in the country, unless he were introduced +to them in town, and the same rule applied to civilians whom an officer +of the Guards had met in the country. Hope-Johnstone said he much +preferred life in a Rifle regiment, as he was far more free to do as he +liked, and could obtain more leave than a subaltern in the Guards. He +intended retiring from the Service so soon as he got his company, as he +was very well off. + +Allen, whose eccentricities I have mentioned elsewhere, came to Gravesend +with his company, and used to walk about the town with his pockets full +of sweets, which he would give to any pretty children whom he happened to +meet. He brought with him a rather smart dog-cart and some fine horses, +and sometimes took me for a drive, during which he used to entertain me +with an account of the charms of a young flower-girl at Folkestone, whom +he had known since she was quite a child, and whom he intended to marry, +although she was only sixteen and he was forty. He did marry her, in +fact, not long afterwards, when the Colonel insisted on his exchanging +into another battalion, stationed in India. The officers’ wives called +upon her, out of compassion, it would seem, for the miserable life which +she led. For Allen was so fearfully jealous that he even went to the +length of locking the poor girl up in the house whenever he went out. He +was subsequently transferred to another regiment, but his jealousy of his +wife continued down to the time of his death, which occurred soon after +he had been promoted major. + +When the musketry-course was over, I returned with my company to Chatham. +One day, I went with Cotton to Southend, and we missed the last train +back. Cotton said that he must get back that night, as he was on duty +next morning, and asked the station-master if he could have a special +train, when that official said that, if we would keep quiet, he would put +us in a luggage-train, which was just on the point of starting. We were +put into a van, which was half-filled with coal, and had anything but a +pleasant journey, as there was nothing but the floor—and the coal—to sit +upon. However, we reached our destination in the early morning, in time +for Cotton to assume his duties as orderly officer. + +Cotton told me that once, when stationed at Aldershot, he went up to town +for the day, and missed the last train back. A lieutenant in the Rifle +Brigade, named Crofton, who was in a like predicament, asked Cotton if he +would come with him in a “special,” which he had just ordered, and the +latter, of course, gladly consented. When they were nearing Aldershot, +Crofton said:— + +“I will send you your half of the bill for the ‘special’ as soon as I get +it. It will be a matter of forty pounds.” + +Cotton, however, did not see the force of this, as he had quite +understood that Crofton, who was a very rich man, had invited him to come +with him. Consequently, he refused to pay any part of the bill. + +It was no wonder that Cotton occasionally missed trains, for he was +constantly late for parade, for mess, and, indeed, for everything. One +day, the Colonel, between whom and Cotton there was little love lost, +remarked:— + +“Cotton, you are always late; I am sure you will be late for your own +funeral!” + +Cotton, who was a grandson of Viscount Combermere, and whose father, the +Hon. Sir C. Stapleton-Cotton, was a general of cavalry, died after the +Zulu War of fever. + +Cotton and I often dined together at a small hôtel at Rochester, which, +if I am not mistaken, was the one where Mr. Pickwick stayed on the +night of the ball at Rochester, described by Dickens. Occasionally we +would converse in French, which Cotton spoke well, though, singularly +enough, he had never been in France. At this hôtel, we occasionally met +two officers of the Rifle Brigade, Viscount Bennet, son of the Earl of +Tankerville, and Lord Torphichen, the last-named officer an old Etonian, +who would join us at dinner. Lord Bennet’s mother was a French lady, and +he used to make very clever jokes in French, which, however, lost by +being repeated in English, on account of the _jeu de mots_. + +Not long after my return from Gravesend, I was sent with Gunning to +Dover, to go through a final course of instruction there, before sitting +for my lieutenant’s examination, and attached to the 104th Regiment +at the Shaft Barracks. I was allotted a very comfortable room in the +barracks, and Colonel Græme, who was then commanding the 104th, was very +pleasant to me, as was a captain named Hunter, with whom I soon became +very friendly. Our instruction, which was conducted by a Captain Savile, +of the Staff College, occupied most of the morning and part of the +afternoon, but by four o’clock we were generally free. My friends, the +Charltons, were still living in Victoria Park, and naturally I lost no +time in calling upon them. They were very pleased to see me again, and +talked a great deal about poor Dillon, to whom, it appeared, Augusta, the +eldest daughter, had become engaged to be married just before he met with +his fatal accident. Ida, the second girl, who seemed even prettier than +when I had last seen her, told me that she was engaged to a lieutenant in +the 12th Lancers named Beck, a very nice young fellow, who had been with +me at Sandhurst, and whom I had liked very much there. + +Mrs. Charlton, as hospitable as ever, told me that I must come to supper +the following Sunday, and bring a friend with me, as I used to do when +poor Dillon was alive. I gladly accepted her invitation, and asked +Gunning to come with me. But he excused himself, explaining that he was +related to the Charltons, but that, owing to some family quarrel, his +parents were not on good terms with them. I then asked a lieutenant of +the 7th Fusiliers, named Foley, who was only too pleased to go. He fell +in love with Augusta at first sight, and he and I used to go every Sunday +evening to supper in Victoria Park. + +Foley, who was a nephew of Lord Foley, was a very nice fellow indeed +and a great friend of mine. He was very witty and amusing, and not +infrequently exercised his wit at the expense of Gunning, who, though +he rather fancied himself at repartee, and could more than hold his own +against most people, invariably got the worst of it when he crossed +swords with Foley. + +While I was at Dover, a big fancy-dress ball took place at Folkestone, +to which Robartes, of the 11th Hussars, and I went with the Charltons. +It was a very smart affair indeed, a number of people coming down from +London for it, and some of the costumes were very fine. One lady, the +Hon. Mrs. Yorke, whose husband was an officer in the Guards, wore a +Greek peasant girl’s costume, which was much admired. Mrs. Yorke had, I +think, the smallest feet for an Englishwoman that I have ever seen, which +the white trousers she wore enabled her to display to advantage. Mrs. +Charlton wore some magnificent lace, which a lady with whom I danced told +me must be worth at least two or three hundred pounds. When I happened +later in the evening to mention this to Mrs. Charlton, she exclaimed:— + +“Two or three hundred! The lace on my dress is worth nearer three +thousand. It is of Charles II.’s time.” + +It was nearly four o’clock in the morning before we left the ball-room, +having all enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. Robartes and I were photographed +with the girls a few days later at Dover, they in the fancy dresses they +had worn at the ball, and we in our uniform. + +When our examination for the rank of lieutenant took place, Foley and +myself passed very well in the first class and had our commissions +ante-dated two years; Robartes, of the 11th Hussars, and Gunning only +succeeded in getting a “second.” The examination was a very stiff one, +and a major of the 104th remarked that it ought almost to have qualified +us for generals instead of lieutenants. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV + + The Oppenheims—St. James’s and Winchester—The Colonel and + Beauclerk + + +Shortly after I had passed my lieutenant’s examination, I was sent to +Woolwich, where a detachment of my battalion was to do duty for the +Horse Artillery. The room I was given, which belonged to an officer of +the R.H.A., was a much better one than I had had in other barracks, +and was furnished with some attempt at luxury. In the evening, I dined +at the Royal Artillery mess, where their very fine string band played +an excellent selection of music, under the direction of its Austrian +bandmaster, Ritter von Zauerthal. I was often on guard at Woolwich, which +I found very tiresome, as the guard was turned out at night as well as by +day, and, as my turn to be on guard came round three times a week, it was +pretty stiff work. + +While I was at Woolwich, a very smart ball was given at the barracks, +which was highly successful, the great variety of uniforms and the +toilettes of the ladies combining to make an unusually pretty scene, and +an excellent supper being provided. To this ball I invited my old Eton +friend, Jim Doyne, who, seeing all the men in uniform, mistook an officer +who had come in evening dress for a waiter, and asked him to fetch an ice +for a lady. The officer, however, took the mistake in very good part, and +did as he was asked, remarking as he handed the ice to the lady, whom he +happened to know:— + +“I am very pleased to make myself useful, and, as I have come in evening +clothes instead of in uniform, I can quite understand your partner taking +me for a waiter.” + +During my visit to Vienna, Herr Neuss had given me a letter of +introduction to Frau Oppenheim, the wife of a wealthy wine-merchant in +London, who, before her marriage, when she was known as Louise Epstein, +had been an actress at the Burg Theatre, and had been considered the most +beautiful woman in the Austrian capital. I called upon her and found +her very charming, though few traces of the beauty which had captivated +so many hearts, including, it was said, that of a British Ambassador, +now remained. Her husband, an immensely stout man, invited me to dinner +and gave me a most excellent one, _arrosé_ with his choicest wines. +In return, I invited the Oppenheims to lunch with me at Woolwich, and +asked a lieutenant of my battalion named Featherstone to meet them. +Featherstone, I am afraid, was somewhat disappointed with Madame’s looks, +as he had been expecting to see a much younger woman. + +After lunch, which was served in a private room at the mess, Herr +Oppenheim expressed a wish to see the 80-ton gun fired for the first +time, but I told him that it was impossible, as he was a foreigner. +However, he protested that he had lived so many years in England that +he had almost come to look upon himself as an Englishman, and at length +he persuaded me to take him. When the great gun was fired, the worthy +wine-merchant was so alarmed that he staggered backwards, exclaiming: +“_Ach, du lieber Gott!_” And had it not been for a man standing by, who +supported him in his arms, and whom his weight nearly upset, he would +have fallen down. + +When I invited a friend to dine with me at the Artillery mess, as I +frequently did, I was obliged to be there to receive him; otherwise, he +would not be admitted. On my inquiring the reason for this rule, I was +told that one evening a man presented himself at the mess, saying that +he had been asked to dine by a certain officer, whose name he gave. The +officer in question did not put in an appearance, and when dinner was +announced, his supposed friend was invited to sit down to table, which he +did. Presently, the attention of one of the mess-waiters was attracted by +the singular behaviour of this individual, who was calmly pocketing as +many spoons and forks as he could lay his hands on, whenever he fancied +that he was unobserved. The mess-waiter reported these proceedings to +the mess-president, and the man was at once given in charge, when it was +discovered that he was a well-known thief. The Artillery mess was a very +large one, from two hundred to three hundred officers sitting down to +table, many of whom brought guests with them. Consequently, they had to +be very careful, as there was always so much silver lying about. + +As it was summer, I frequently went up to London by steam-boat, which +was a very pleasant way of making the journey. My companion on these +river-trips was a lieutenant of my battalion, named Ernest Hovell +Thurlow, an exceedingly nice fellow, who wore an eyeglass and appeared to +take life in a very philosophical manner, as he never allowed himself to +be put out by anything. He was a grandson of Lord Thurlow, and his mother +had been a Miss Lethbridge. He was married, but his wife, a very pretty +woman with wavy, golden hair, was staying in town for the season. + +After we had been some months at Woolwich, our detachment received orders +to relieve the Grenadier Guards at St. James’s Palace. We detrained at +Waterloo Station and marched to the Palace, in front of which the band +of the Grenadiers was playing while the guard was being mounted. Our +Colonel, who had come up to town expressly for this ceremony, and was +in plain clothes, sent me to tell the Grenadiers’ band to stop playing, +at which the bandmaster, Dan Godfrey, appeared to be rather surprised. +However, he obeyed the order, when the band of our battalion played in +its turn, after which the guard was relieved. + +I had a very comfortable room in St. James’s Palace, where I slept while +I was on guard there, and, with the other officers, was made an honorary +member of the Guards’ Club. I found the duties rather fatiguing, as the +sentries to be visited were so far apart. The officers of the Guards +always visited them in hansom-cabs, but Captain Tufton, who was in +command of our detachment, would not allow me this luxury, and I had to +go on foot. + +I invited Jim Doyne to dine with me one evening at the Palace. The dinner +was excellent, and was provided free of cost to the officers, though +they had to pay 15s. for each guest. The champagne was very good and +the liqueurs as well, and a bottle of brandy was opened which was of +the year of the Battle of Waterloo. Amongst the guests was a Lieutenant +Childe-Pemberton, who was formerly in our regiment, but was then in the +“Blues.” + +After I had been a short time at St. James’s Palace, my battalion was +ordered to the Tower. But the Colonel, who had a good deal of influence +at the War Office, persuaded them to countermand this order and send it +to Winchester instead, where the detachment from St. James’s joined it. + +I had very comfortable quarters at Winchester, and life there was very +pleasant, as the country round was very pretty, and we were invited +to all the best houses in the neighbourhood. One of the most pleasant +houses to which I went was that of Lady Frederick. It was a charming old +residence, standing in the midst of beautiful grounds, and Lady Frederick +and her son were most kind and hospitable. + +The depôt of the Rifle Brigade was also at Winchester, and the officers, +some of whom were very nice fellows indeed, frequently dined at our mess. +Amongst them was a Lieutenant F. Howard, whose acquaintance I had made on +the troopship returning from India, and whom I was very pleased to meet +again. He told me that he was now married and invited me to dine with +him and his wife. I did so, and had a most pleasant evening, as both the +Howards were very musical, Mrs. Howard having a very good voice, while +her husband was quite an accomplished pianist. + +Sir George Nares, the Arctic explorer, was living at Winchester at +the time with his wife and daughters. I made their acquaintance at a +dance, and was often invited to tea at their house, after which I used +to play tennis or croquet with the two girls, both of whom were very +good-looking, or go with them for a country-walk. Sometimes when I +called Sir George Nares would ask me to have a glass of madeira, from one +of the remaining bottles of a case of that wine which had made the voyage +with him. He did not show any traces of the privations which he had +endured in the Arctic; but he was a very quiet man, who did not talk much +and kept a good deal to himself. Not long after I came to Winchester, the +family removed to a house near Surbiton, where they invited me to visit +them. While I was there, the elder daughter met with a very sad accident. +She was running downstairs, when the heel of her shoe caught in a +stair-rod and she fell on her back, injuring her spine so badly that she +died six months later. She was only eighteen. Her younger sister married +a missionary some years later, and went out to South Africa. + +Several officers from the 2nd Battalion, with which I had served in +India, were at the depôt, including Surgeon-Major Macnamara, Beauclerk, +Lovett, and a captain named Brownrigg. Brownrigg was a fine-looking man, +though with a tendency to _embonpoint_, and a very nice fellow as well, +but he had an unfortunate weakness for liqueurs. He used to mix two or +three together, and whenever anyone came to see him would invite them to +have “a two-bottle trick” or “a three-bottle trick” with him. Brownrigg +married not long afterwards and left the Service, but died suddenly, six +months later. Probably, the two and three bottle tricks in which he was +so fond of indulging had undermined his health. + +It was rarely that the officers went up to town from Winchester, as the +journey was rather too long, and there was plenty of amusement to be +found in and around Winchester. The music at the cathedral had a great +attraction for me, and I was never tired of listening to the magnificent +playing of the organist, Dr. Arnold. I took lessons in composition from +Dr. Arnold, which interested me very much, although Howard declared +that he could not understand anyone wishing to be initiated into the +mysteries of harmony and counterpoint; which, he said, was a kind of +higher mathematics and destroyed the illusion which music produces on +the senses. + +The Colonel was his own absolute master at Winchester, as there was no +general there to look after him, and gave himself and his battalion a +rest, the parades being few and far between and the guards easy. Except +for pottering about the mess-room and his work at the orderly-room of +a morning our chief had little to do, and, from want of some better +occupation, made himself more than usually objectionable to such of the +officers as he did not happen to like. Beauclerk, who had been at the +depôt for some time, was transferred to our battalion, at which I was +very pleased, as he was a very nice fellow and a perfect gentleman, +though a little inclined to be conceited. Unfortunately, the Colonel at +once took a dislike to Beauclerk, owing to some jesting remark which the +latter let fall while playing billiards with him, which he considered was +wanting in respect, though any ordinary person would have seen nothing +offensive in it. Next day, the chief appointed him to Robinson’s company, +well knowing that Beauclerk would never tolerate the manner in which +that eccentric personage was in the habit of treating his subalterns, +whom he seldom condescended to address except to find fault with them, +which he did in not the politest of language. Sure enough, one fine day, +Beauclerk complained to the Colonel of the language which “Rabelais” had +used towards him, and when the Colonel refused to listen to him, sent in +his papers, which was, of course, just what our amiable chief wanted him +to do. He was a great loss to the regiment, and his retirement was much +regretted. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + + Paris Again—Eccentricities of Captain “Rabelais”—A Fire in + Barracks—A Trying Inspection + + +My next winter leave I spent in Paris with my parents, who now occupied +an _appartement_ at No. 65, Rue de Morny, Champs-Elysées, and, as the +winter season in the French capital was in full swing, had a very gay +time of it. Among the balls to which I went was one given by Mrs. +Hungerford, the mother of the well-known Mrs. Mackay, which was a very +grand affair indeed, and at which dancing was kept up until nearly five +in the morning. I met Mrs. Mackay shortly afterwards, when calling on +Mrs. Hungerford. She spoke Spanish quite fluently, and was at this time +very intimate with Isabella, the ex-Queen of Spain, to whose house she +was often invited. She was, as usual, beautifully dressed, and in the +most perfect taste. Another ball I attended was given by Mrs. Keogh, an +Irish lady, where I danced the cotillon with a very lovely young Russian +girl, a cousin of the Empress of Russia, who, together with her sister, +was made a great deal of at that time in Paris society. I also went to a +_bal-masqué_ at the Opéra with an American friend named Willing. There +was a great crowd there, all the women being, of course, masked and in +fancy costumes. I went into Baron Alphonse de Rothschild’s box to pay +my respects to Madame Adelsdorfer, a great friend of Lady Holland, with +whom she stayed when in London, and she invited me to accompany her on +the following evening to the “Italiens,” where we heard Albani sing in +_La Sonnambula_. I was delighted with Albani’s voice and also with her +acting. + +Another evening, I went to see Salvini in _La Morte civile_, by +Giacometti. Mlle. Masini, a young girl, played the part of the daughter, +whom Salvini tries to kiss when he dies. She offers up a prayer for him +on her knees, which so affected the audience that nearly the whole house +was in tears. I saw Salvini on two other occasions: in _Il Gladiatore_, +when I sat next to a very pretty girl, who pointed out to me a +middle-aged man with a grey beard, whom she told me was Alphonse Daudet, +the celebrated novelist, and again in _Othello_, when Mlle. Checchi Bozzo +played Desdemona. She and Salvini acted magnificently and delighted +everyone. Mlle. Checchi Bozzo died suddenly two days after I had seen +her in _Othello_; she was only twenty-two, and her death caused a great +sensation in Paris. + +Amongst other plays which I saw were Madame de Girardin’s _la Joie fait +Peur_, Alfred de Musset’s _Il ne faut jurer de rien_, and Augier’s +_Philiberte_, at the Théâtre-Français, in all of which the acting was +admirable, and a very amusing piece called _la Boule_, by Meilhac and +Halévy, at the Théâtre-du Palais-Royal. + +One Sunday afternoon I went to Pasdeloup’s concert, where they played +the _Septuor_ of Beethoven beautifully. The greatest attraction there +was Sivori, who performed a violin solo in the most wonderful manner. +Sivori was Paganini’s best pupil, and Lord Berkeley used to say that +he preferred Sivori to any violinist he had ever heard, as he always +played with so much feeling, and eschewed those complicated pieces which +resemble gymnastic exercises for the fingers, and serve no better purpose +than to enable the violinist to display his execution. + +At the Grand Opéra I heard _l’Africaine_, of Meyerbeer, which was +marvellously well-staged. Madame Krauss sang the title-part. She was an +Austrian, from Vienna, but sang at the Paris Opéra for years, and was +quite famous there. I also heard _Robert le Diable_—or rather part of it, +for my father, who was with me, could not sit it out. So we adjourned to +Thorpe’s, where we met Tom Hohler, whom I have mentioned earlier in this +volume, and remained talking to him for some time. Tom Hohler was now +married to Henrietta, Duchess of Newcastle, and they lived in the Avenue +d’Antin. + +While in Paris, I visited a great many old friends, including Eugénie +de Lavaile and Gabrielle Tercin, with whom I went one evening to the +Scala and supped with them afterwards at a neighbouring restaurant. +Another evening, I went with the former to the Folies Dramatiques to see +_les Cloches de Cornéville_, in which Juliette Girard acted and sang +remarkably well and was very graceful. I also renewed my acquaintance +with Mrs. Michell and her daughter, whom I had not seen since I was +at Marienbad, and whom I came across one day while walking on the +Boulevards, and with the Vicomte Arthur d’Assailly, whom I had met in +India. The Vicomte lived in the Rue Las Cases, and was a member of the +Jockey Club, but he preferred les Mirlitons, he told me, as they gave +many evening entertainments, and he was passionately fond of music. + + * * * * * + +When my leave was up, I rejoined my battalion at Aldershot, to which it +had been transferred from Winchester. It had originally been ordered to +the Tower of London, but the Colonel, as on a previous occasion, had +used his influence at the War Office to get this order countermanded, +to the great disgust of most of the officers. However, our chief rarely +condescended to consult the wishes of anyone but himself in such matters. + +On my arrival at Aldershot, I was summoned to the orderly-room by the +Colonel, who told me that I had somewhat exceeded my leave, to which I +merely replied:— + +“Indeed, sir!” + +The other officers present, amused at this laconic answer, burst out +laughing, at which the Colonel looked very black indeed. His temper, +I soon learned, had not improved since the battalion had removed to +Aldershot, as he found things there very far from what he had expected. +He was not nearly so much his own master as he had been at Winchester; +the constant parades irritated him, and he lived in perfect dread +of the field-days, as he was constantly being reprimanded by the +Brigadier-General in command, for not knowing his work. These reprimands +he endeavoured to pass off on to the majors and captains, telling them +that they did not attend sufficiently to their duties; but everyone knew +with whom the fault lay. + +Much to the Colonel’s annoyance, both Allen and Smith had now got +their companies. Thanks to the former’s fidelity to his Folkestone +beauty, he succeeded in getting rid of him, telling him that it would +be simply impossible for him to remain in the battalion after making +such a _mésalliance_. But he had no excuse for getting rid of Smith, +and so was obliged to put up with him, though he lost no opportunity +of showing his dislike; and it was remarked that when offenders from +Smith’s company were brought before him, they were always more severely +punished than those from other companies. Smith, however, took it all +very philosophically, observing that, as the Colonel could not remain +in command for ever, he did not intend to gratify him by leaving the +battalion. + +Neither could our chief succeed in ridding himself of Robinson, whose +eccentricities caused him great annoyance. Since the arrival of the +battalion at Aldershot, “Rabelais” had taken to sitting out of doors +on warm days, arrayed in a flaming red dressing-gown, with feet and +legs quite bare save for a pair of slippers, much to the disgust of +some ladies, who had frequently to pass by his quarters. The matter was +reported to the Colonel, who exclaimed angrily:— + +“Confound that Robinson! What can I do with such a creature? He is a +disgrace to my battalion!” + +Nevertheless, he did not dare to interfere with him personally, but +deputed the adjutant to remonstrate with him. “Rabelais,” however, +received that officer with such a volley of oaths that he beat a +precipitate retreat. + +Whenever Robinson wrote to me or anyone, he did so on note-paper in the +corner of which was a picture of the devil in bright red, with black +wings, seated upon a swing, and the same device adorned the envelope. +Like Ludwig of Bavaria, he would only speak to some people from behind a +screen in his sitting-room. His sergeants, his subalterns and even the +adjutant, he would receive in this way, unless one of them happened to +come on some important business, when he would occasionally condescend +to reveal himself. His unfortunate subalterns, if they were not to +his liking, positively trembled before him, and generally ended, like +Beauclerk, by sending in their papers. + +One of his subalterns, whom I recollect “Rabelais” treated particularly +badly, was a very nice fellow named Crawley, who had lately joined. +Crawley, however, put up with it, though when the battalion was ordered +to South Africa on active service, he exchanged into the Coldstream +Guards with an officer who was killed in the first engagement. In after +years, Crawley commanded a battalion of the Coldstreams, and died of +wounds received in the Boer War. + +There was a good deal of society in and around Aldershot, and the +officers of my battalion were invited out a great deal, but our duties +soon grew so heavy that we were obliged to decline nearly all the +invitations we received. Colonel Wellesley, the governor of the military +prison, and his wife used to give very pleasant garden-parties, at which, +as we had not far to go, we were generally able to be present. The +Colonel, who was then an old man, was an uncle of the Duke of Wellington, +and Mrs. Wellesley was a most charming woman. They had several daughters, +who were very good-looking girls, and an only son, Cecil Wellesley, a +little boy about eleven years old. + +A General Smythe, a retired officer of the Artillery, who lived with his +wife and daughter in a large house at Aldershot, with extensive grounds +attached to it, also used to give garden-parties, which were always +well attended. The Smythes were very hospitable people, and everything +was admirably arranged, including the refreshment department, of which +the champagne-cup was a feature. Their daughter was a remarkably fine +tennis-player, and could, as a rule, beat any officer who opposed her. +She played in a short skirt reaching just below the knee, and wore a +collar and tie and a man’s cap—a costume which suited her very well, +as she had a good figure and beautifully-shaped legs, but was, in those +days, considered a rather bold one for a woman to adopt. Miss Smythe was +not only a fine tennis-player, but a most accomplished musician. When +quite a young girl, she had studied singing and composition at Dresden, +under the direction of Madame Schumann, who declared that she had never +had a pupil with so wonderful an ear for music, as she could sing the +scales without a piano in every possible key, without the slightest +fault. She was also an excellent horsewoman and a very bold one, and +Holled-Smith, who used often to go for rides with her, told me that she +would put her horse at jumps that made him even think twice before he +ventured upon them, although he followed the hounds regularly when his +duties permitted. Some people thought that he and Miss Smythe would make +a match of it, as they were so much together, but they remained merely +friends, and Holled-Smith eventually married another lady. + + * * * * * + +One night, I was awakened by Cotton, who told me that the fire-bugle had +sounded. Pulling our great-coats over our night-shirts, we ran towards +the place where the fire had broken out, and found that it was in the +stables, which were soon almost gutted. Two of Allfrey’s hunters were +burned to death, for though we endeavoured to save the unfortunate +animals, it was quite impossible. Indeed, we had all our work cut out to +prevent the fire from spreading to the adjacent buildings, but, with the +aid of some men with the fire-hose, we succeeded in doing this. + +During Ascot week Bagot drove our coach from Aldershot to Ascot and +back, while I sat on the box-seat and occasionally took a turn with the +ribbons. Bagot was a first-rate whip and the best in the battalion, +though Allfrey and Cotton were by no means to be despised. We lunched +at the Greenjackets’ tent, which was for the members of both Rifle +regiments, where I entertained my father and Sir George Wombwell and his +party. Among the party was the Hon. Mrs. Crichton, whom I had met at +Dover, and I was pleased at seeing again Savile Lumley, afterwards Lord +Savile, who had been at Eton with me. + +Among the Line regiments stationed at Aldershot was one commanded by +Lieut.-Colonel Deane, brother-in-law of Lord Falmouth, who frequently +used to dine at our mess, as a guest of our chief. Lord Falmouth owned +some of the best racehorses in England, and had won both the Derby and +St. Leger. But he disliked betting, and Colonel Deane told us that +the only bet he had ever had in his life was one of sixpence with his +housekeeper. He lost, and, in payment of the bet, gave her the sixpence +set in brilliants for a brooch. + +There were several cavalry regiments at Aldershot, including the 8th +Hussars and the 16th and 17th Lancers. The 16th Lancers had a circus, +composed of officers and men, which used to give performances which were +highly successful; in fact, it was almost as good as a professional +circus. Taaffe, whom I had met on my way out to India, was with the 16th +at Aldershot, and we used frequently to dine at one another’s messes. + +When in town, I constantly met old Eton friends and acquaintances, +chiefly officers in the Guards. The Hon. Alfred Egerton, who was at that +time a lieutenant in the Grenadier Guards, was a particular friend of +mine and I saw a good deal of him. Egerton told me that his colonel, +Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar, had refused to allow his battalion to +comply with a senseless order during the manœuvres at Aldershot on a day +of almost tropical heat. Other commanding officers, however, had not the +courage to follow his example, with the result that a great number of men +got sunstroke. In those days, the Aldershot manœuvres took place in the +height of summer, instead of, as now, in the autumn. Several battalions +of the Guards and the “Blues” were sent to Aldershot for the manœuvres, +and amongst the Eton friends whom I met was Lord Edward Somerset, who had +exchanged from the 23rd Royal Welsh Fusiliers into the “Blues,” where he +was very popular. + +The day the troops were inspected by the Duke of Cambridge rain fell in +torrents. The troops had to assemble on parade in the early morning in +full uniform without overcoats, and to wait, standing at ease, for fully +two hours in the midst of the most drenching rain until the Duke arrived. +Many men suffered afterwards from the effects of that deluge. I was one +of them, as shortly afterwards, I was laid up with a severe attack of +rheumatic fever, which has affected my heart ever since. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII + + Madrid and Cordova—Seville—General von Goeben and the + Bull-fight—A View from the Alhambra—I rejoin my Regiment + + +I spent my winter leave in Paris, where I suffered more or less all the +time from rheumatism of the heart, for which I took a good many Turkish +baths, without, however, obtaining much relief. My doctor told me that it +would be unwise to return to Aldershot when my leave was up, and advised +me to spend the rest of the winter in Spain. Accordingly, I went before +a medical board in London, one of the members of which was Surgeon-Major +Clarke, of the Royal Horse Artillery, whom I had known in India, and was +granted three months’ sick leave. I returned to Paris with my father, who +had accompanied me to London, and Lord Henry Paget (afterwards Marquis +of Anglesey), and on the following evening left the Gare d’Orléans for +Madrid. + +After two nights and a day in the train, I reached Madrid, which, as it +was carnival time, was very gay. I took a room at the Hôtel de Paris, +and after breakfast called on Doña Queñones de Léon, who lived in a huge +house like a palace, and who received me in a drawing-room, in the centre +of which a small fountain was playing. In the evening, I visited the +Opera, but was not very favourably impressed by, the performance. The +following day, through the good offices of the Marquis de San Carlos, I +was able to visit the Royal Stables and the Armeria, with which I was +quite delighted. Afterwards I walked in the Prado, which was crowded with +carriages, all the occupants of which were masked. Some of the carriages +were drawn by mules, and a few by donkeys. In the evening, I dined with +the Marquis de San Carlos, when I met Doña Queñones de Léon and two +daughters of Queen Christina and a daughter of the Marquis. The next day +I visited the Museum, and then went again to the Prado, where I saw the +King and princesses in an open carriage. The crush was so great that +one could hardly move. After dinner, I visited Señora Queñones de Léon, +with whom I found the Marquis de San Carlos and his sons, and, at their +request, played some airs on the zither. + +From Madrid I went to Cordova, where I stayed at the Hôtel Suiza. +Cordova is an interesting town, containing, as it does, so much Moorish +architecture. Some of the streets are so narrow that there is barely room +for two people to walk abreast, and it is infested by hordes of beggars, +mostly children in an almost nude condition. The smallness of their hands +and feet betray their Moorish origin. + +After spending a couple of days at Cordova and visiting the Cathedral, +with its pillars of porphyry, I took the train for Seville, where I put +up at the Hôtel des Quatre Nations. At dinner that evening I sat next +to a young man who, I afterwards learned, was a son of the President of +Brazil. As I intended to remain for some time at Seville, I looked out +for a _casa de huespedes_ (boarding-house), which I found in the Plaza +Nueva. The Plaza Nueva is the finest square in Seville, and contains a +great number of orange-trees, which at night and early morning throw out +the most delicious fragrance imaginable. My rooms overlooked the Plaza, +and at times the perfume of the orange-blossoms, which the Spaniards call +“_azahár_,” was so overpowering that one felt almost intoxicated. + +The _casa de huespedes_ was kept by three young girls—sisters—of the +name of De Larriva, who told me that they would teach me Spanish. +The youngest, who was called Manuela, was a very pretty brunette of +seventeen, with jet-black hair, beautiful white teeth, and those peculiar +black eyes which are rarely seen except in the South. She it was who +gave me the most instruction, for, though her two sisters spoke French +fairly well, while Manuela spoke no language but her own, she was by far +the prettiest of the trio, and I not unnaturally preferred being taught +by her. She began by telling me the names of the parts of the face, and +gradually taught me to pay all kinds of compliments. By her advice, I +took some lessons, besides, from a professional teacher of the language. + +Life at this _casa de huespedes_ was very pleasant, apart from the food, +which, to an English palate, was detestable, for every dish was prepared +with olive-oil, and even the poached eggs tasted of it. The butter was +imported from Holland and the milk condensed. I lived chiefly on oranges, +for I found nearly everything else unpleasant to the taste. We used to +sit down twenty-five to dinner, as a number of Artillery officers from +the garrison were in the habit of dining there. + +Among my fellow-guests was an Englishman of seventy, a Mr. Heaviside, +who had come to Seville on purpose to learn to read “Don Quixote” in +the original old Spanish. Manuela used to tease him, by encouraging him +to speak Spanish, of which he knew very little. I often went with him +to a café of an evening to hear the _bandhurria_ played with the piano, +and occasionally I went for a walk with the sisters De Larriva in the +fine gardens of the Paseo, where there were many tropical plants growing +out in the open air, and lemon and orange trees perfumed the atmosphere +deliciously. + +An officer whom I knew, Surgeon-Major Orton, happened to be spending +his leave at Seville, and with him I went to visit the Museum, with +its lovely pictures by Murillo, and the Alcazar, with which we were +delighted, the walls being covered with beautiful designs in the style +of the Alhambra. I also visited the Giralda, the view from which is +very fine, the Carridad, where there were many pictures by Murillo and +exquisite wood-carvings by Rollas, and the cathedral, which is one of the +largest in the world. + +During the winter the _patio_, or courtyard, of the houses in Seville +is but little used, but when spring comes, people spend a great part of +their time there. When Spaniards get together they invariably dance +with castanet accompaniments. Sometimes they dance the Seguidillas, the +Sevillana, or the Fandango, which is very pretty to watch, as both men +and women dance with so much _élan_. This is very much the custom, even +in aristocratic houses, the looker-on applauding and exclaiming: “_Ollé, +graziosa, muy bien, ollé, ollé!_” when one of the girls attempts some +unusual feat. + +One evening I went with some of the people at the boarding-house to the +Calle Trajano to see the dancing there. An exceedingly pretty little +girl, of ten or eleven, though she appeared much older, with black hair, +dressed like a Spanish woman, with a number of curls round the face, +danced with a man dancer the “_torrero y la Malagueña_.” In which dance +she displayed all the marvellous art of a _première danseuse_, dancing on +her points and executing the most difficult _entrechats_, _battements_ +and _pas de chat_, which would have done credit to a dancer double her +age. Then, suddenly, she darted across the room, with her handkerchief +in her hand, and before I had time to realize what had happened she had +thrown the handkerchief into my lap and rushed away again. Somewhat +embarrassed, I inquired of those sitting near me what I was supposed to +do, and was told that I was expected to put some money into it, and that +the little _danseuse_ would come and fetch it. After the performance, I +spoke to the little girl, who told me that her name was Salud, and asked +me to come and see her. I went the following day, when she danced for me +and gave me her photograph. Afterwards, I often went to the Calle Trajano +of an evening, where I sometimes danced with the Spanish girls, and on +one occasion danced a polka-mazurka with Salud. + +During Holy Week and the “Feria,” which followed it, Seville was crowded +with visitors, and the prices at the hôtels and _casas de huespedes_ +were all increased. Among the visitors who came to my boarding-house +was General von Goeben, who commanded a division of the German Army in +the Franco-German War of 1870, and after whom the notorious battleship +of Dardanelles fame was named, and the Marquis de Rampa, an immensely +wealthy Spanish nobleman, and his daughter. I sat next to the daughter, +who was quite a young girl, at table, and was obliged to make what play I +could with my Spanish, as she spoke no other language. + +The processions which took place day and night during Holy Week were very +imposing. Images of the Virgin Mary figured in all of them. The trains of +the dresses, which were of immense length and generally of blue or violet +velvet, must have cost thousands of pounds, as they were most exquisitely +embroidered with gold and silver lace, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and +pearls. They were carried by young girls. On Palm Sunday, the people +who took part in the procession were dressed in black, with their faces +covered, and palm-branches in their hands. On Holy Thursday, I went to +the Cathedral to see the Archbishop of Seville wash the feet of the poor. +There was a tremendous crush, and Baron von Münchhausen, a Bavarian +nobleman, who was with me, had his gold watch stolen. + +The “Feria” was a very pretty sight. All the principal families in +Seville took part in it, each having a separate tent, in which they +entertained their friends and sold various objects, somewhat after the +fashion of our charity bazaars. In some of these tents the saleswomen +were young girls, gorgeously dressed in red and yellow satin embroidered +with white lace and wearing white lace mantillas. To most of the tents +you had to receive an invitation before you were allowed to enter, when +you were offered chocolate or coffee, and, in those belonging to rich +families, champagne and other wines, the buffets being laid out with a +great display of silver plate and flowers. In the evening, the different +families visited each other’s tents, and the dancing of Fandangos, +Boleros and Seguidillas was kept up until past midnight. + +The Carrerras de Caballos (Horse Show) was held in another part of the +grounds. Here I met Lord Torphichen, of the Rifle Brigade, who had come +from Gibraltar, where his battalion was stationed. He was very surprised +to see me, as few British officers ever visited Seville. + +One of the chief attractions of the “Feria” was the bull-fight, to +which all the ladies of Seville went, wearing white mantillas and their +choicest jewels. I went with Baron von Münchhausen and General von +Goeben. But the latter took his departure very early, observing that, +though he had seen a great deal of bloodshed during the Franco-German +War, he felt quite faint and could not possibly stand any more of such +a disgusting spectacle. On my return to the boarding-house, Manuela +inquired if I had not been delighted with the bull-fight, saying that +it was the grandest sight in Spain and that nothing gave her so much +pleasure. I told her that I thought it very cruel to the unfortunate +horses, when she rejoined that, “they were old screws and no longer of +any use.” I remarked that that did not prevent them suffering, upon which +she said that hunting was equally cruel, and that it was a matter of +prejudice and nothing else. + +“Besides,” added she, “racing is cruel on the horses, some people say.” + +After that I saw that it was useless to pursue the argument further. + +During the “Feria,” the ladies of Seville dressed in colours, but at +other times most women and girls wore black. There were some very pretty +women in Seville, but the beauties were generally to be found among the +lower classes, most of whom have Moorish blood in their veins, which +gives them a darker complexion, but also smaller features and very tiny +hands and feet. Théophile Gautier observes that there is nothing more +charming than the foot of an Andalusian woman, which makes even that of a +Frenchwoman appear large. + +During my stay at Seville, I paid a visit to Cadiz. The approach to +Cadiz is perfectly lovely and has often been compared to the approach to +Constantinople. Seen from a distance, the town appears to be built of the +most exquisitely white marble; while the sea, which seems to surround +it, is of a beautiful sapphire, which rivals in loveliness the heavens +above, though, as it was early morning, the colour of the sky was more +like that of the turquoise. This illusion is destroyed, however, when one +enters Cadiz, as many of the houses are very far from being of the snowy +whiteness which distance had lent to them. + +At Cadiz, where I put up at the Hôtel des Quatre Nations, I came across +a Mr. Rueff, whom I had met at Cordova, and in his company explored +the town and visited several of the churches, where Mr. Rueff was +much interested in the wood-carving, some of which was of exquisite +workmanship. The day before returning to Seville, I went with Mr. Rueff +by rail to Jerez, where we visited the wine cellars of Señor Misa, who +supplied my own and most of the best regiments in England with wine. +Señor Misa invited us to taste some of his best wines, including one +which was bottled in the year of the Battle of Waterloo. He told us that +it was sold at £3 the bottle, but it never left the country. + +Mr. Rueff accompanied me back to Seville, and together we visited the +Fondacion, where the cannons are made, and the Casa de Pilatus, the +supposed house of Pontius Pilate. A few days later, I paid a visit to +Granada, where the red hills and grey rocks and the elm trees with +their massive foliage formed an agreeable contrast to the flat and +barren country around Seville. On entering the Alhambra, I was fortunate +enough to make the acquaintance of two English ladies, one of whom was +married to a Portuguese nobleman and lived in the Alhambra. These ladies +very kindly volunteered to show me all over the Alhambra and explain +everything to me, an offer which I gladly accepted. The Alhambra reminded +me to some extent of the Alcazar at Seville, as it is built in the same +style of Moorish architecture, though on a much larger and grander scale. +The Court of Lions and the adjacent rooms are exquisitely constructed, +and the marvellous decoration of the walls, with their blending of +colours and intricate designs, impart a magnificence to the “_tout +ensemble_” almost impossible to describe. + +One of the most exquisite views I can remember, I had when the sun was +setting from one of the windows of the Alhambra, from which I could see +the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, with their summits covered in snow. +The colours which the sun’s declining rays imparted to the clouds were of +all the various shades of the opal, making some of the tiny clouds appear +like roses in the heavens, and the heavens themselves as though on fire. +Then gradually the colours became more subdued, and every shade melted +away, from the deepest red to the most delicate violet, leaving here +and there a bunch of roses, which resembled in their pale _nuance_ the +Souvenir à la Malmaison or Blanche Laffitte. This was the effect of the +after-glow. + +The next day, the two ladies took me to see the Cartuja and the +Cathedral, and on the following afternoon I went with them for a drive +into the country, during which I had a splendid view of the Sierra +Nevada. After dinner, I went again to the Alhambra to take leave of my +kind friends, and heard the nightingales sing as I had never heard before +or since in my life. + +Early next morning I left Granada for Seville. At a lonely spot beyond +Antequeria the train came to a stop, owing to the line being blocked by +a broken-down engine, and we were told that it might be some time before +we should be able to proceed. Many of the passengers appeared greatly +alarmed, and, on inquiring the reason, I was informed that this part of +the country was infested by brigands, who might at any moment come down +upon us. However, we saw nothing of these gentry, and at the end of a +couple of hours the engine which barred our way was got off the rails, +and we continued our journey. + +Towards the end of April, the weather became intolerably hot at +Seville, and I reluctantly decided to bring my stay there to a close. I +accordingly bade farewell to Manuela and my other friends at the _casa +de huespedes_ and took the train for Madrid, where I again put up at the +Hôtel de Paris. I stayed for some days at Madrid, visited two or three of +the principal theatres and dined with Doña Queñones de Léon, the Marquis +de San Carlos, and other people whom I knew. I also went several times to +the Museum, where I made the acquaintance of a Señorita Hélène de España, +a wonderfully pretty girl of seventeen, who was engaged in copying a +painting by Van Dyck. This Señorita Hélène de España was a blonde with +blue eyes and fair hair, a type of beauty not often met with in Spain, +but it appeared that she was of English descent on her mother’s side, +though she could not speak English. She seemed to be a young lady of a +rather romantic temperament, for, after a very short acquaintance, she +told me that I might serenade her by night beneath her window. But I did +not avail myself of this permission, which I often regretted since not +having done. + +Before leaving Madrid, I spent a day at Toledo, where, under the wing of +a guide, I visited the Cathedral of San Juan de los Reyes, the Jewish +synagogue, and the royal manufactory of steel weapons. This manufactory +is one of the best in Europe, and the way in which the upper part of +the blades of the swords and daggers made here is inlaid in gold and +silver gives them a very costly as well as a very charming appearance. +Some of the weapons were for sale, and I purchased a very fine dagger, +beautifully inlaid with gold arabesque designs. These daggers are of so +fine a steel that they will easily pierce a silver coin without breaking. +Toledo is one of the oldest towns in Spain, and the last place in which +the Jews were allowed to reside before they were banished from Spain. +This accounts for its inhabitants having a Jewish cast of countenance. + +I arrived in Paris on my birthday, May 5th. The Exhibition had now begun, +and I visited it on several occasions with my father and other friends. I +was much interested in the prize zithers sent by Anton Kiendl of Vienna, +which were truly beautiful instruments, and very delighted with the +playing of a Hungarian gipsy band in the Austro-Hungarian section of the +Exhibition. At the Grand Opéra I heard _l’Africaine_ for the second time, +and also went to the Théâtre de la Renaissance to see _le Petit Duc_, in +which Mlle. Granier and Emil Meyer sang, and to the “Français,” where +I saw Got, Coquelin and Mlles. Reichemberg, Agar and Croizette in _les +Fourchambault_. I attended a race-meeting at Longchamps with my father, +where we met the Hon. Albert Bingham and Howard Vyse, who returned with +us to Paris, and in the evening we went to Musard’s Concert, at which the +Prince of Wales was present. Altogether, I had a very pleasant time, but +my three months’ sick leave was now on the point of expiring, and I was +obliged to return to England to rejoin my regiment. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + + I meet Byron Again—I endeavour to Exchange—Basil Montgomery—My + Illness—Why I was not Placed on Half-pay + + +My Colonel appeared anything but pleased at my return. He had, it seems, +been hopeful that my application for sick leave was but a preliminary +step to my resigning my commission, when he had intended to replace me +by a friend of his from the 4th Battalion; and was, therefore, naturally +disappointed at my reappearance upon the scene. + +_À propos_ of colonels and the way in which they treated officers to whom +they happened to have taken a dislike, there was, just about this time, a +great scandal in another battalion of my regiment. + +Among the subalterns of this battalion was a certain Lieutenant Gilbert, +who was very popular with his brother-officers; but his Colonel, who was +a terrible martinet, persecuted him to a shameful degree and lost no +opportunity of making his life a burden to him. One day, during a parade +in which this officer was right guide of his company, the Colonel bullied +him in a way which disgusted everyone. Suddenly, after being sworn at +in the most disgraceful manner, the poor young fellow, his powers of +self-control exhausted, threw down his sword. The Colonel at once ordered +the Adjutant to place him under arrest, and he was subsequently tried by +court-martial, found guilty of insubordination on parade and cashiered. +At the same time, the Colonel was told that he must retire from the +Service at once. It was said that, had Gilbert not thrown down his +sword, matters would have turned out very differently, for the Colonel +had behaved so outrageously that he would have been cashiered himself, +that is to say, if anyone had had the courage to bring his conduct to +the notice of his superiors; and, as the battalion was on the point of +mutiny, this would probably have been done. + +The 2nd Battalion, 10th Regiment, to the command of which my friend +Byron had recently succeeded, had just arrived at Aldershot, and I was +naturally delighted to see him again. He invited me to dine at the 10th’s +mess, where I spent a most pleasant evening. During dinner, Byron said:— + +“You were very foolish to leave us. If you had stayed, as you may +remember I advised you to do, you would have had me for your C.O., and +would have had a very easy time of it, and have been able to do as you +pleased.” + +He added that, in his opinion, there was no comparison between the two +Rifle regiments, so far as the social position of officers serving in +them was concerned, and that, from what he had heard, as his brother was +a major in my regiment, but in a different battalion (He later commanded +the 2nd Battalion), I was not only in the inferior regiment, but in its +worst battalion, commanded by a chief about whom few people seemed to +have a good word to say. + +All this was only too true, and I could only reply that, had I been able +to see a little into the future, I would certainly have remained with the +10th Regiment. It was unfortunate, too, my not being able to remain with +the 2nd Battalion of the Rifles in India, as I liked them all very much. + +In May, the German Crown Prince, who was on a visit to England, came down +to Aldershot to inspect the troops. We could well have dispensed with +the honour he did us, as it was a pouring wet day and bitterly cold, +and by the time we got back to camp we were drenched to the skin. This +experience, as may be supposed, did not do me any good, although I felt +no ill effects at the time. + +I was in town a good deal during the season, and went several times +to the Opera, where I heard Patti in _Il Barbiere de Seviglia_, _Don +Giovanni_, _Aïda_ and _Semiramide_, Albani in _Atala_, the Spanish tenor +Gayarré in _Lucrezia Borgia_ and Jean de Reszke in _les Huguenots_. +Early in July, my father came over to England, and I went with him to the +Eton and Harrow match at Lord’s, where we lunched on Tom Hohler’s drag. +Jim Doyne was in town, and I saw a good deal of him, and we often lunched +and dined together. In fact, on my visits to London I generally contrived +to have a very good time; but at Aldershot things were not so pleasant, +and matters came to a head on the day my battalion was inspected by +Brigadier-General Anderson. + +The inspection passed off pretty satisfactorily. Each officer in +succession was called up by the Brigadier and told to put his men through +certain movements. The Brigadier found fault with two of the officers, +and complained about them to the Colonel, who, however, assured him that +on ordinary occasions their work was quite satisfactory. I was now in +command of Allen’s company, and when my turn came, I had no difficulty +in performing all the requisite movements, and was complimented by the +Brigadier, who then turned to the Colonel and remarked:— + +“I can find no fault with this officer; he knows his work better than +some of the others.” + +“I don’t know how it is, Sir,” replied the Chief, with difficulty +concealing his annoyance, “but to-day he seems smarter than usual.” + +The Colonel, it appeared, had made a very bad report on me to the +General, which would have been sent to the War Office if the latter had +confirmed it; but this the Brigadier told him he was quite unable to do. +The Colonel then said that it was in looking after my company that I +was deficient, to which his superior replied that he would see into the +matter and send for us both in a day or two. + +I had written to General Sir John Douglas, K.C.B., who commanded the +Forces in Scotland, and had married a daughter of Earl Cathcart, +complaining of my Chief’s treatment of me; and Sir John had written to +Brigadier-General Anderson about me. It was owing to this that the latter +watched me so carefully, in order to see if I were really so ignorant of +my work as my Chief had represented, and, having satisfied himself to +the contrary, he had decided to investigate my case further. + +However, the Colonel, having got rid of Beauclerk and Allen, had now made +up his mind to get rid of me also. Accordingly, he sent Major Northey to +advise me to exchange into another battalion, as he was determined that +I should not remain in his. The Major said that it was no good my trying +to resist so obstinate a man as the Chief, and named an officer whom +the Colonel was anxious to have in his battalion, who would probably be +willing to exchange with me. + +“You know what he is when he has once taken a dislike to anyone,” he +added. “Remember Beauclerk’s case. If you will take my advice, you will +communicate with the officer I have mentioned at once.” + +I said that I would do as Major Northey advised, and wrote to the officer +in question, who replied that, as he was short of money, he would only +exchange in consideration of my paying him the sum of £300. He pointed +out that his battalion was remaining in England, while mine would shortly +be going on foreign service, and perhaps even on active service. + +I may mention that some time before this I had been told by my cousin, +Emily Cathcart, that I had a very good chance of being chosen as private +secretary to the Duke of Argyll, who was then Governor of Canada; but +eventually a relative of his was offered the post. + +The Colonel, in the belief that I was about to exchange, now became quite +amiable towards me. At times he would send Wilkinson, the Adjutant, to +ascertain how matters were progressing, and I was not a little amused by +the way in which Wilkinson, who did not wish me to suspect the object of +his visit, would lead up to the subject. + +The eccentricities of our Chief at this time caused the whole battalion +great annoyance. It was an unusually hot summer, and he used to inspect +us of a morning wearing mufti and holding a huge white umbrella over +his head, a precaution which he explained by saying that he had had +a touch of sun whilst serving in India. If this were really the +case, it probably accounted for his constant outbursts of temper. At +these inspections, he was accustomed to display the most exasperating +solicitude about the men’s uniform, inspecting each man separately, and +fingering every button to ascertain whether it were loose or not. This +sort of thing, which could, of course, have been very well undertaken by +the company commanders in barracks, instead of by the C.O. on parade, +under a broiling sun, used sometimes to occupy hours, and was naturally +very trying indeed to everyone. + +One morning, towards the end of July, I was playing at single-stick with +Holled-Smith, when I received rather a severe hit on the side, which made +me feel so ill that I went to bed and sent for our surgeon, who told me +that my liver, from which I had suffered so much in India, was affected. +He made me remain in bed for several days, at the end of which I was well +enough to return to duty. + +A day or two later, I was told by the Adjutant that I had to go with him +to Brigadier-General Anderson, and that the Colonel would be there. The +General asked me several questions on military matters, all of which I +answered correctly, and then requested the Colonel to tell him in what he +found fault with me. + +“I find that he does not pay sufficient attention to his duty,” answered +my Chief. + +“But,” observed the General, “you said first of all that he does not know +his work, which I find not to be the case. Now you say that he does not +pay sufficient attention to his duty; but I have inspected his company, +and I do not find it in any way less well looked after than the other +companies in your battalion. I really cannot agree with you in your +opinion, and must make notes upon the report you have forwarded to me.” + +The General then dismissed us, and I returned to my quarters, very +relieved at the result of the interview. + +The other officers were naturally very anxious to know what had happened, +and, when I told them, all advised me to remain in the battalion, and +not to exchange, saying that the Chief had shown himself to be in the +wrong, and that the General, who was a first-rate officer, must have seen +at once that it was nothing but spite on his part, for which he would no +doubt severely reprimand him. Captain de Robeck, whose advice was nearly +always worth following, said to me:— + +“If you exchange, it will cost you £300, and I don’t think it is worth +it. I should brave it out, were I in your place.” + +The other officers told me the same, and declared that it would show +great weakness on my part if I left the battalion. + +As events turned out, I had no option in the matter, since my father, +to whom I had written asking for the £300 I required to purchase my +exchange, could not see his way just then to let me have the money, as +he had been so robbed by a lawyer, a trustee. And so I had to “brave it +out,” _bon gré, mal gré_, and to derive what consolation I might from +the reflection that, after what had happened, I should probably have an +easier time of it, and should no longer have to endure all the extra +parades which the Chief had been in the habit of inflicting upon me. + +Vain illusion! So far from being allowed a rest, I found that I had, if +possible, more to do than ever, the Adjutant having apparently received +orders from the Chief to give me all the extra work he could possibly +find for me to do. And, even without these extra parades, the work in the +hottest weeks of an exceptionally hot summer would have been quite heavy +enough. Thorne, an old Etonian, an excellent young man, one of the nicest +lieutenants in the regiment, advised me to ask for a Court of Inquiry, +which he felt sure the General would approve of, and would very likely +ask for himself, without my applying for one. + +One night, Basil Montgomery, who had been in the 2nd Battalion with me in +India, dined at our mess. He told me that he was on the point of going +out to India again, as private secretary to his brother-in-law, the Duke +of Buckingham, who was Governor of Madras. He added that he disliked +India, and would prefer to be a crossing-sweeper in England than a +prince out there, but that he was obliged to accept the post that had +been offered him. However, he only remained about six months in India, +as he did not hit it off with the Duke, who was a very difficult person +indeed to get on with. + +Towards the end of the season (through my cousin, Miss Anne Cathcart), +I was asked by Herr Schultz, from whom the Princess of Wales was then +taking lessons on the zither, to play at a concert which was to be given +shortly at Marlborough House. I willingly consented and went up to town +several times to practise for the concert, which, unhappily, I was to be +prevented from taking part in. + +For some time I had again been suffering from rheumatism, which affected +my heart. I consulted Sir William Jenner, who warned me not to exert +myself too much. But this advice I was unable to follow, as though the +regimental surgeon made an application to the Chief for me to be excused +some of the parades, it was at once refused. + +One intensely hot day, we were kept on parade for a long while with +nothing but our forage-caps to protect us from the scorching sun. +Suddenly, I experienced the most excruciating pains in the head, and felt +as if everything about me was turning round. This giddiness soon passed, +but on coming off parade I felt very unwell. However, as I was orderly +officer of the day, I performed everything that was required of me. + +That evening at mess, where I was acting as vice-president, I suddenly +turned to the officer on my left, one of the senior lieutenants, Thorne, +and said:— + +“I have lost the use of my right hand and foot!” + +Thorne poured me out some brandy and told me to drink it off, but on +trying afterwards to rise from my seat, I fell down. Thorne and another +officer assisted me to my quarters, where, remembering that I had to turn +out the guard, I tried to buckle on my sword, only to fall again. They +then put me to bed, and sent for Surgeon Comerford, who at once declared +that I was suffering from sunstroke. My father was telegraphed for, and, +on his arrival, asked Surgeon-Major McCormack to visit me. The latter +took so serious a view of the case, saying that I had but a few hours to +live, that my father lost no time in calling in a London specialist, who +said that my heart was in a bad way and that I must have had a sunstroke +on parade. When I grew a little better, my father wished to take me to +Paris, but the London doctor advised my not being moved for several weeks. + +The Colonel, who was perhaps experiencing some twinges of remorse for the +manner in which he had treated me, came to visit me and was very kind, +sending me fruit and game. He had, however, previously dispatched Gunning +to ascertain if I intended to resign my commission, as, in the event of +my being placed on half-pay, the Colonel said the battalion might have a +year or two to wait for my place to be filled up, and we were very short +of officers. Besides this, Gunning was anxious himself to obtain my step +in promotion, though he did not say so on this occasion. + +I had several visitors while I was confined to my quarters, apart from +my brother-officers. One day, Mrs. William Adair and her daughter came +to see me, and were very surprised at finding me so ill, as only a few +days before I had walked over from Aldershot to spend the day at their +house at Whiteways End, a distance of six miles. Mrs. Adair, who was a +grand-daughter of the Duke of Roxburghe, was considered one of the most +beautiful women in England. Her daughter, who was then sixteen, was also +extremely pretty, though of a very different type of beauty from her +mother, being very fair. Mrs. Wellesley sent her little son “Cissy” to +cheer me up several times, in which task he was very successful, as he +was always most pleasant company. + +It was some weeks before I was able to leave Aldershot, as I had almost +entirely lost the use of my right arm and leg. The Colonel wanted me +to be examined there by a Medical Board, consisting of Surgeon-Major +McCormack and Surgeon Comerford, and, though several officers in my +regiment advised me to have the Board held in London, he got his way in +the matter. No one was supposed to know the result of the Board until it +had been approved of by the War Office. + +So soon as I was well enough to stand the journey, I went up to London, +accompanied by my father and my soldier-servant, Spearing. On the advice +of Dr. Russell-Reynolds, my father took me to Paris to consult Professor +Charcot and Dr. Brown-Séquard, who at first held out some hopes of my +recovery. The War Office had granted me three months’ leave, and, when +it expired, as I had not recovered the use of my limbs, they refused to +place me on half-pay, and on the 1st of January 1879, I was obliged to +resign my commission. The reason they gave was that the Medical Board at +Aldershot had stated that my illness was not caused in and by the Service. + +The Earl of Berkeley, who wrote my letter of resignation from Paris for +me, as I was unable to do so myself, said in this:— + + “_In conformity with the instructions I received from the + War Office, I have forwarded my resignation to the officer + in command of my battalion. I had ventured to hope that a + certificate I forwarded to the Colonel of the regiment from one + of the most eminent consulting physicians in Paris, stating + that my illness was the result of sunstroke, might have pleaded + my cause with H.R.H. the Commander-in-Chief. I have another + certificate which I have not under the circumstances taken the + liberty of forwarding to you, but I would gladly do so, if I + thought my case might be pleaded with H.R.H._” + +A further letter, also written for me by Lord Berkeley, was sent to my +Colonel:— + + “_Although I have the opinion of the most eminent physicians + that my unfortunate illness was the result of sunstroke + sustained when on duty, I yield to the decision of the + Field-Marshal Commander-in-Chief, and hereby tender my + resignation of H.M. Service._” + +General Sir John Douglas, then commanding the Forces in Scotland, wrote +to me: + + “_I have found out, through General Taylor (79th Highlanders), + at the War Office, that it is through your Colonel’s influence + that they have refused to place you on half-pay, and it is + quite impossible to overcome this influence._” + +A year or two afterwards, I happened to meet Surgeon Comerford in +London, when I reproached him for not mentioning my sunstroke at the +Medical Board at Aldershot. He assured me that he was prepared to swear +on the Bible that he had done so, adding that my Colonel could not have +forwarded his report correctly to the War Office, or else I should have +been placed on half-pay. He had fully expected that I should have been, +and was surprised that such was not the case. + +I may here mention that there were only two medical officers on the +Board: Surgeon-Major McCormack and Surgeon Comerford. The former had only +seen me once before in his life, so I presume the report must have been +written by Surgeon Comerford; but, as I have never seen the report, I +cannot be quite certain. + +Captain Howard Vyse, late of the “Blues,” said to me in Paris, when I +showed him a letter which I had received from the War Office:— + +“Thank God! such a thing could not happen with the Household troops. The +officers would not allow it either. To lose one’s health in the Service, +and then to receive no compensation whatever! I never heard of such a +case; it is simply disgraceful!” + +In recent years—in 1909—several officers who had served with me, +including my Colonel, the late General Sir W. Leigh-Pemberton, forwarded +letters to the War Office, stating that they remembered my sunstroke at +Aldershot as being the cause of my paralysis,[26] and I forwarded medical +certificates to prove that my paralysis was the result of sunstroke while +on duty there. The reply received by General Sir H. Geary, K.C.B., was +that the Army Council had made an inquiry, and that “no evidence can be +traced to show that he sustained a sunstroke while on duty at Aldershot +in August, 1878. In any case, it would seem practically impossible to +prove that his present disability was the outcome of illness contracted +in and by the Service more than thirty years ago. Not only the absence +of confirmatory records, but the whole procedure at the time is out of +keeping with the theory that his resignation was due to illness caused by +military duty.” + +Sir William Gull, under whose treatment I was for some years, in the +early eighties, told me that my paralysis was caused by embolism, owing +to the sunstroke at Aldershot in 1878, adding that he had a very bad +opinion of Army doctors in general, who were constantly making dreadful +mistakes, and indeed, were no better than the doctors mentioned by Lesage +in _Gil Blas_. + +In 1918, Field-Marshal Lord Grenfell, who was formerly in the 1st +Battalion of my old regiment, had great hopes of obtaining a pension or +retired pay for me from the War Office, but so far his most kind efforts +on my behalf have been fruitless. It would appear that philosophy is not +at all studied at the War Office, for they persist in maintaining that it +is possible for the same thing to be and not to be, which is contrary to +the ideas of the most abstruse philosophers. With regard to the Ministry +of Pensions (whose Secretary is Sir Matthew Nathan), above its portals +ought to be written “Lasciate ogni Speranza.” It is to be hoped that with +Mr. Winston Churchill, the author of “Savrola,” as Secretary of State for +War, some ideas of justice may be imparted to both of them. I hope so, +not only for my own sake, but for that of the whole Army. + + +THE END + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + +[1] I heard from the late Lady Ritchie, Thackeray’s daughter, some little +time before her death. She was kind enough to be interested in this book, +but told me that she was a young girl when her father was at Homburg +and had scarcely any recollection of those days. My father used often +to observe that Thackeray was one of the most charming and amusing men +he ever knew, and seemed surprised when I told him that I remembered so +little of him at Homburg, saying that he was nearly always with us at the +Kursaal or in the grounds of the Kurhaus and was exceedingly fond of me. + +[2] Henry Greville writes in his diary, under date October 12th, 1846: +“Came to Worsley with Slade, found here party assembled to meet the +Duchess of Gloucester. Lady Caroline Murray was in attendance on the +Duchess, who is the most amiable and least troublesome Princess it is +possible to see.” + +One day a very nervous lady called on the Duchess of Gloucester, a +daughter of George III., and remained a long time, being under the +impression that Her Royal Highness would give the signal when she wished +her to withdraw, and fearing to commit a breach of etiquette if she rose +before the duchess. However, after a very long time, Her Royal Highness +rose and left the room, upon which the lady retired. The latter was in +great distress when she was subsequently told of the mistake she had +made. This incident was related to me by my mother, who was acquainted +with the lady at the time. + +I may perhaps mention here an incident about Queen Adelaide, wife +of William IV., who had a very slight acquaintance with the English +language. One of the first sentences she learned by heart was: “How are +you off for soap?” Her Majesty was so pleased at being able to speak +a little English that she asked this question of every lady whom she +happened to address, smiling amiably the while. Some of them were rather +astounded, but there was a certain fascination in this phrase which took +Her Majesty’s fancy, and it may be that the look of surprise on the faces +of some of the old dowagers added to her delight and made her repeat it +all the more. This anecdote was told me by a lady who had known Queen +Adelaide personally and was often with her. + +[3] In after years, at Aldershot, I knew the late General Lord C——, +son of the above mentioned Lady C——, very well. Once, at a concert, I +played a piece of music on the zither, for which I received an encore, +but a string of the instrument having broken, had to be replaced before +I could take it. Lord C—— was kind enough to make a short speech for me +and explain to the large audience what had happened, as I did not feel +equal to doing so myself. He was a most kind and affable man and a good +general, though the War Office, with their usual _manque de tact_, blamed +him in the Zulu War for the faults of others as well, whose errors they +wished to conceal. But, as General von Goeben, the celebrated Prussian +general of division in the Franco-German War of 1870, said to me at +Seville, where I lived in the same _casa de huespedes_ with him for some +weeks, _à propos_ of an affair of another kind: “What can you expect from +a Secretary of State for War, who is a civilian. You might just as well +have an old washerwoman (_Wäscherin_) at the head of your War Office. She +might perhaps even be more useful.” + +[4] Count Perponcher always selected the ballet dancers for the Opera in +Berlin. Many years ago I made the acquaintance at Milan of a lovely, fair +Polish girl, Marie Urbanska by name, who was studying dancing there, and +danced occasionally in the ballet at La Scala. She was then sixteen, and +during her stay at Milan, all her expenses were paid by Count Perponcher. +The Emperor William always called her “the little Countess” (_die Kleine +Gräfin_), as her father was a Polish count, and she was still second +_danseuse_ at the Berlin Opera twelve years ago. One night, as she was +ascending the stairs at the Villa Manzoni, where I too was staying, she +was seized and gagged and conveyed to the house of a gentleman, who told +her that he was in love with her. But she insisted on leaving the house, +which he allowed her to do. The man in question, who was a German, was +obliged to leave Milan, in consequence of this affair, which, however, +was hushed up, as he came of a well-known family in Germany. + +[5] The late Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild told a young English girl of +sixteen whom I knew that, if he could by some means regain his youth, +like Faust in Goethe’s play, and be the same age as she was, he would +willingly give up his entire fortune. He was then about fifty-four years +of age. When the young lady in question repeated this to a late member +of the Turf Club in my presence, the latter observed: “Ferdy must have +set a high value on his youth, for I asked him to let me have £200 lately +for a common friend who was at school with us and is now ruined, which he +refused to do. Consequently, I have quarrelled with him for ever.” + +[6] _À propos_ of Napoleon, it is strange how great was his fondness for +music. A person whose voice flattered his ear rarely displeased him. +But, if a name had a harsh sound, he muttered it between his teeth, and +never uttered it aloud. Grillparzer says of Napoleon: “Er war zu gross, +weil seine Zeit zu klein.” (“He was too great, because the age in which +he lived was too little.”) Napoleon imagined that he would have made +Corneille a prince if he had lived in his time, but it is more likely +that he would have imprisoned him for life. + +[7] The late Henry Labouchere’s grandfather was, as a young man, a clerk +in a bank in Somersetshire, and in receipt of a salary of about £80 a +year, when he fell in love with Sir Francis Baring’s daughter. As, in +ordinary circumstances, he had not the smallest chance of obtaining the +consent of the lady’s father, he conceived the following ingenious plan +of overcoming the difficulty. + +Presenting himself before the senior partner of the bank in which he was +employed, he inquired whether it would be possible for him to become +a partner forthwith. The banker burst out laughing. “What, you!” he +exclaimed. “Why, you are only a junior clerk. How can you ever think of +such a thing? The idea is simply ridiculous.” “But supposing,” rejoined +Labouchere, with perfect aplomb, “that I had already received the consent +of Sir Francis Baring to marry his daughter?” “Oh, that alters the case +entirely. If what you say is true, then you could, of course, easily +become a partner.” Labouchere then approached Sir Francis Baring and +asked him for his daughter’s hand. That important personage was even +more indignant at the young man’s presumption than the banker had been, +and told him what he thought of it very plainly. “But supposing,” said +Labouchere, not a whit disconcerted, “that I am not what you think I +am, but a partner of the bank.” The baronet’s manner changed. “If,” he +answered, “you are a partner of the bank, as you tell me, I will talk +the matter over with my daughter.” In the result, Labouchere married +Sir Francis Baring’s daughter and became, at the same time, a partner +in the Somersetshire bank. His son was created Lord Taunton, and Henry +Labouchere would have been heir to the title, but, as it was only a life +peerage, it did not descend to him. This anecdote was related to me by an +uncle of mine by marriage, who was Clerk of the Peace for the county of +Somerset. I have heard it also related by others. + +[8] Desseins Hôtel has been demolished in recent years. It was a most +luxurious hôtel, and is mentioned in the works of Sterne, Thackeray and +Dickens. + +[9] Godfrey Astell told me a rather amusing story about himself when I +was in the regiment with him. He had been invited to shoot over a large +estate in Scotland, and one of the gamekeepers looked particularly well +after him all day, pointing out where the best beats and coverts were, +and exclaiming every time a pheasant rose: “Godfrey, now’s your chance!” +It subsequently transpired that the man, on hearing Astell called Godfrey +by his friends, was under the impression that this was some high title he +possessed, having no idea that it was only his Christian name. + +[10] I had a letter before the war from Mr. Winston Churchill, Lord +Randolph’s son, in answer to one in which I had told him that, in certain +respects, he reminded me of Mirabeau, and that I was convinced that he +would become Prime Minister before very long. + +[11] I heard from Lord Willoughby de Broke, the son of the one mentioned +here, some years ago. He was then _en route_ for the Caucasus, and he +told me that he had read my book on Paris and Vienna with pleasure and +interest, though he was not aware at the time by whom it was written. He +is one of the most energetic members of the House of Lords, and it is to +be hoped that he will do everything in his power to recover for it its +lost prestige. + +[12] Grillparzer says that it has often struck him that Shakespeare took +some of his ideas from Lope de Vega’s plays. Shakespeare’s Miranda, he +says, could be compared with the character it resembles in _Los tres +diamantes_, and the love-scenes in the latter are quite on a par with +those in “Romeo and Juliet.” The plot of “The Merry Wives of Windsor” +is similar to that of _Los ferias de Madrid_. As for _Los pleitos de +Inglaterra_, he regards this play as incomparable, and the love-scenes +in “Romeo and Juliet” appear almost to pale in comparison. “I wish,” he +continues, “Lessing had known Calderon and Lope de Vega. He would perhaps +have found that there was more connection with the German _esprit_ than +in the far too gigantic Shakespeare. Perhaps “Macbeth” is Shakespeare’s +greatest work; it is without doubt the most realistic.” + +[13] During the four years I was at Eton, we won the “Ladies’” at Henley +every time. The winning crews were composed as follows:— + +1867: W. D. Benson (captain), A. G. P. Lewis (stroke), T. +McClintock-Bunbury, W. G. Calvert, J. H. Ridley, R. W. Morehouse, G. H. +Woodhouse, J. E. Edwards-Moss, F. H. Elliot (cox). + +1868: T. McClintock-Bunbury (captain and stroke), W. C. Calvert, J. +E. Edwards-Moss, F. A. Currey, J. Goldie (K.S.), F. Johnstone, J. W. +McClintock-Bunbury, W. Farrer, F. E. Elliot (cox). + +1869: J. E. Edwards-Moss (captain), F. A. Currey, F. Johnstone, J. W. +McClintock-Bunbury (stroke), F. C. Ricardo, J. S. Follett, F. E. H. +Elliot, M. G. Farrer, W. C. Cartwright (cox). + +1870: F. A. Currey (captain), J. W. McClintock-Bunbury (stroke), F. C +Ricardo, J. S. Follett, A. W. Mulholland, C. W. Benson, R. E. Naylor, A. +C. Yarborough, W. C. Cartwright (cox). + +[14] The Eton Eleven, during the four years I was there, was composed as +follows: + +1867: C. R. Alexander (captain), C. I. Thornton, W. H. Walrond, H. M. +Walter, W. C. Higgins, C. J. Ottaway, W. F. Tritton, M. Horner, W. H. +Hay, E. Wormald, P. Currey. Match drawn. + +1868: C. I. Thornton (captain), H. M. Walter, W. C. Higgins, C. J. +Ottaway, W. F. Tritton, W. H. Hay, P. Currey, Hon. G. Harris, J. Maude, +S. E. Butler, G. H. Longman. Harrow beat Eton by seven wickets. + +1869: W. C. Higgins (captain), G. H. Longman, A. S. Tabor, F. W. Rhodes, +F. Pickering, J. P. Rodger, Lord Clifton, C. J. Ottaway, M. Maude, Hon. +G. Harris, E. Butler. Eton won by an innings and nineteen runs. + +1870: Hon. G. Harris (captain), G. H. Longman, A. S. Tabor, F. W. +Rhodes, F. Pickering, J. P. Rodger, Lord Clifton, G. H. Cammell, M. A. +Tollemache, A. F. Ridley, Hon. A. Lyttelton. Eton won by twenty-one runs. + +[15] _À propos_ of Peterborough, I once heard a good story about a Bishop +of Peterborough—Dr. Magee, I think—which was told me by my tutor at Eton. +Some people, who had never seen him, were very anxious to hear him preach +and therefore went early in the morning to the cathedral to secure good +seats. A man showed them over the cathedral, where they retained the +best seats they could find, and, on leaving, one of the party gave their +cicerone, whom they took for the verger, five shillings. The latter put +the money in his pocket, and then to their astonishment said: “I am not +the verger, but the Bishop of Peterborough himself. However, I shall keep +the five shillings all the same, for I have found you a good pew, and +what I have received I shall give to the poor.” + +[16] The Hon. Thomas Fitzwilliam, who was then in the 10th Hussars, +married Elgiva Kinglake, whose brother was at Eton with me. She was very +pretty and a remarkably good rider, but she died quite early in life, and +her husband did not long survive her. She was a great friend of Mary, +Duchess of Hamilton, and I remember once, at a meet of the Devon and +Somerset Staghounds on the Exmoor hills, being much struck by the beauty +of the Duchess, who was present with Elgiva Fitzwilliam, for they always +hunted with these hounds in those days. + +[17] Jim Doyne, in later years, bore some resemblance to the late King +Edward VII., then Prince of Wales, and at Pratt’s, one evening, the late +Duke of Beaufort walked up to him, and, holding out his hand, said: “I +wish you good evening, sir.” Doyne felt very flattered at the mistake, +which, however, the Duke at once discovered. Nevertheless, when meeting +my friend afterwards, he would always address him as “Sir” for amusement, +and Doyne, who had a gift for repartee, would give an appropriate reply. + +[18] Voltaire believed sincerely in God, but no one nowadays even thinks +of reading his correspondence, which shows us all his faults, his +kindheartedness, his charity, and his other good qualities. One of the +strongest features in Voltaire’s character was his sense of friendship. +Génonville, who took away his mistress, Mlle. Livy, from him, remained +his friend, and Voltaire laments his death in a poem of marvellous +beauty, with all the warmth of truth. This poem and the one which follows +it, _les Vous et le Tu_, in which also Mlle. Livy is referred to, are two +of his most beautiful poems. Of Rousseau, Grillparzer says: “I read _les +Confessions_ and am terrified to recognize myself in them.” How Rousseau +would have been surprised if someone had called him the most perfect +egoist. He lived with the woman who was so devoted to him and never +married her, although it would have been a great happiness to her to bear +his name. Corneille, according to Grillparzer, was an excellent poet, and +his first works were admirable, but his later ones show a steady decline +from his early standard, which is difficult to explain, except perhaps +after reading his tragedy, _Feodora_. In Grillparzer’s opinion, Racine +was as great a poet as ever lived. + +[19] “My darling,—I am obliged to start immediately for Mexico; I have +not even time to come to bid thee good-bye.” + +[20] Mr. Howard Vyse, the father of these young men, came to see me +in Paris after I had left Bonn. He dined with us, I recollect, and +we afterwards went to a theatre, and from there to various places of +amusement, so that it was nearly daybreak before we reached the Hôtel +Bristol, in the Place Vendôme, where he was staying, and where he +insisted on my passing what remained of the night. As he offered me an +exceedingly comfortable bedroom, I did not refuse. I dined a few days +later with him and his wife at the “Bristol,” where they had a suite of +apartments usually reserved for royal personages, which the late King +Edward VII. had occupied just previously. While we were at dinner a +courier came into the room to inquire if everything were satisfactory. +This man’s services, it appeared, had been exclusively engaged by Mr. +Howard Vyse, and he was accustomed to order dinner and settle the +accounts. Mr. Howard Vyse told me that he was obliged to remain three +months at the Hôtel Bristol owing to his wife’s state of health, as the +doctor would not allow her to travel to Nice, where he intended spending +the winter. He was a very wealthy banker from New York, and the two sons +who were at Bonn with me were his only children. + +[21] The sister of Sir Howard Elphinstone, at one time Equerry to the +late Duke of Edinburgh, related to me that, when she was in Germany with +her brother, they went one day to secure places for some ceremony in +which a good many royal persons were interested. When they entered the +room, a man showed Sir Howard Elphinstone the places reserved for him and +his family, and as this person wore a kind of dress coat with gold lace, +Sir Howard took him for a man-servant, and, on going away, slipped a +thaler into his hand, which he accepted without making any remark. Later +in the evening, Sir Howard and his sister discovered that the man whom +they had tipped was Bismarck, who at that time, of course, was not so +celebrated as he subsequently became. + +[22] Darwin’s theory has of recent years been disproved by men of +science, such as Professor Dr. von Wettstein, Warning, Henslow, and +others. Only in certain instances can Darwin’s theory be accepted; but +it has been discovered recently that the new formation of species among +plants and animals is possible in different ways, and not only in the +manner Darwin implies. His theory of descent, which was firmly believed +in by men of science in the sixties and seventies of the last century, +is now pronounced to be a theory altogether out of date, and has been +superseded by those of Moriz Wagner, Karl von Nägeli, Henslow, A. von +Kerner and Professor A. Weissmann. “The Origin of Plant Structures by +Self-Adaptation to the Environment,” by Henslow, published in 1895, and +Warning’s “Geography of Plants,” published in the following year, are +well-known English books on this subject which may be recommended to +those interested in it. + +[23] Baron von der Goltz is proud of his stupidity. + +[24] Grillparzer says of Heine that his first verses in the _Reise +Bilder_ and some of his last poems are of great merit, while those of the +intermediate period must be considered decidedly bad. + +[25] Another lady employed by the Russian Government to worm out State +secrets was the Countess Stadnicka, whose acquaintance I made in recent +years in Vienna, and she would often ask me the most difficult questions, +which I never attempted to answer. She told me that for information of a +certain nature she was often paid very large sums. The Countess Stadnicka +had very lovely blue eyes, which were universally admired, and a fine +figure, but she was no longer in her first youth. She was the mother of +Graf von Metternich, who was the owner of vast estates and a minor, and +the Countess had a lawsuit in Vienna to obtain control over her son’s +property during his minority. She was a wonderful linguist, speaking +English, French, German, Italian and Russian fluently, and could tell one +more about the Austrian nobility than anyone else I ever met in Vienna, +as she was a Viennese by birth, and her father, who was one of the old +nobility himself, had occupied a high position. She seemed to know +everyone, but though a woman of wonderful intelligence, she had a rather +spiteful tongue, and was therefore feared by some people. She always +spoke to me in French and often said: “_Vous êtes drôle, vous, car vous +n’aimez que le fruit pas mûr, ce qui est d’abord très fade et n’a point +de goût_.” + +[26] The names of these officers were: The late Lieut.-General Sir +W. Leigh-Pemberton, K.C.B.; Major-General Sir Charles Holled-Smith, +K.C.M.G.; Colonel Ernest Hovell Thurlow; Major C. H. B. Thorne, J.P.; +Lieut. Horace Neville; Colonel Alfred Clarke, M.D., and Major C. de +Robeck. + + + + +INDEX + + + Aberdour, Lord, 108. + + Adair, Mrs. William, 269. + + Adelaide, Queen, 5 (_note_). + + Adelsdorfer, Baroness, 146. + + Adelsdorfer, Madame, 244. + + Airey, Lord, 222. + + Albani, 116, 244, 263. + + Aldershot, 246. + + Allfrey, Lieutenant, 223. + + Algar, Major, 191. + + Alhambra, The, Granada, 258. + + Alexander, C. R., 66, 81. + + Alison, General Sir A., 181. + + Allen, Lieutenant, 223, 234, 247. + + Anderson, Brigadier-General, 264, 266. + + Andrä, Professor Dr., 124, 128. + + Andrews, Mrs., 218. + + Anglesey, Marquis of, 148. + + Annesley, Lieutenant-Colonel, 176. + + Armytage, Lieutenant, 205, 207. + + Arnold, Dr., 242. + + Arthy, Captain, 34. + + Ashburnham, Major, 191. + + Astor, Lord, 90. + + Auerbach, Berthold, 129. + + Aylmer, Percy, 93. + + + Babington, Sub-Lieutenant, 183. + + Bagot, Colonel Sir Josceline, 101. + + Bagot, Adjutant A. G., 227, 247. + + Baird, George, 93. + + Baldock, Colonel, 82. + + Balfour, Charles, 81. + + Balfour, Miss Hilda, 81. + + Baring, Viscount, 182, 242. + + Barnard, Lord, 98. + + Batchelor, Veterinary-Surgeon, 205, 208, 213. + + Bean, Capt. and Mrs., 133. + + Beauclerk, Lieutenant, 186. + + Beauclerk, Miss, 143. + + Beaumont, Sub-Lieutenant, 206. + + Beck, Lieutenant, 236. + + Belgrave, Viscount, 76. + + _Bell’s Life_ substitute for Bible, 47. + + Bennett, Viscount, 235. + + Bentheim, The Princes, 127. + + Benyon, Captain, 206. + + Berkeley, Earl of, 165. + + Berkeley, Lord, 245. + + Berkeley, Captain Lennox, 57, 59, 112, 113, 147, 157. + + Bernhardt, Sarah, 229. + + Bernstorff, Count, 126. + + Bethell, Lieutenant, 169. + + Bingham, Hon. Albert, 161, 260. + + Binz, Professor Dr., 123. + + Black Forest Adventures, 22. + + Blane, M., 9. + + Blewitt, Major, 176. + + Blocqueville, Marquise de, 158. + + Blount, Edward, 110. + + Bois-Hébert, Marquis de, 161, 164. + + Boland, Major, 110. + + Bonn, 123. + + Boulogne, 37. + + Bozzo, Mademoiselle Checchi, 245. + + Bromley, Capt., 33. + + Brown-Séquard, Dr., 270. + + Browning, Oscar, 74. + + Brownrigg, Capt., 242. + + Burgh, Capt. Hubert de, 161. + + Byron, Capt. John, 172, 179, 263. + + + Cambridge, Duke of, 250. + + Campden, Viscount, 215. + + Campobello, Signor, 156. + + Candle, The diminishing, 209. + + Cantelupe, Lord, 143. + + Caracciolo, Duchesse de, 143. + + Card playing, 176. + + Carpenter, Captain, 225. + + Cartwright, General, 180. + + Cathcart, Lady Georgina, 83. + + Cathcart, Hon. Emily, 83, 84, 265. + + Cavendish-Bentinck, Arthur, 93. + + Cercle des Patineurs, 57. + + Chantilly, 163. + + Charcot, Professor, 270. + + Charleville, Lord, 51. + + Charltons, The, 173, 179, 236. + + Chatham Barracks, 175. + + Childe-Pemberton, Lieutenant, 241. + + “Christopher Inn,” 86. + + Christy Minstrels at Chatham, 227. + + Churchill, Lady, 85. + + Churchill, Lord Randolph, 46. + + Clanmorris, Lord, 161. + + Clarke, Sydenham, 191, 212. + + Clarke, Surgeon-Major, 250. + + Cockshot, Mr., 73. + + Collins, Major, 225. + + Combermere, Viscount, 235. + + Comerford, Surgeon, 268. + + Cotton, Lieutenant C. S., 222, 234, 249. + + Cramer, Captain, 223. + + Craven, Fulwar J. C., 68, 82, 93. + + Crawford, Colonel, 148. + + Crichton, Hon. Mrs., 249. + + Crofton, Lieutenant, 235. + + Crompton, Captain, 214, 215. + + Czartoryski, Princess, 140. + + Czerwinska, Countess, 137. + + + d’Abrantès, Duchesse, 157. + + Dalton, Rev. W., 73. + + Dannecker’s statue, 14. + + Daram, Mademoiselle, 152. + + Darwin’s theory disproved, 131. + + d’Assailly, Vicomte Arthur, 146, 213, 246. + + d’Attainville, M. de Lesquier, 137. + + D’Aubigny, Comte, 37. + + Daudet, Alphonse, 245. + + d’Aumale, Duc, 163. + + Deane, Lieutenant-Colonel, 250. + + de Houghton, 178. + + Delaunay, 182. + + Delbrück, Hans, 135. + + Desart, Countess of, 6. + + Desclée, Aimée, 179. + + Dickenson, Lieutenant Fiennes, 192. + + Dillon, Lord, 116. + + Dillon, Sub-Lieutenant A., 173, 179, 181, 225. + + Disraeli, 55. + + Dorrien, Captain Frederick, 4, 27, 113. + + Douglas, General Sir John, 31, 264. + + Douglas, Captain Niel, 86, 264. + + Douglas, Charles, 88. + + Doyne, Lady Frances, 105. + + Doyne, James, 66, 74, 77, 79, 80, 81, 88, 93, 101, 103, 109, 136, + 238, 241. + + Doyne, Mrs., 104. + + Doyne, Mr. Mervyn, 105. + + Drexel Brothers, 17. + + “Dry bobs,” 88. + + Duff, Folliot, 150. + + Dunn, Captain, 169. + + Durnford, Rev., 73. + + Dusauty, 147. + + + Earning a living, 233. + + Edwards-Moss, 100. + + Egerton, Hon. Alfred, 250. + + Ehnn, Fräulein, 231. + + Elwes, Captain, 37. + + Erroll, Countess of, 84. + + Eschenheimer Thor, The, 13. + + Eton, Happy days at, 65 _et seq._ + + Etonian _cachet_, 63. + + Eugene, 199, 208. + + + Falmouth, Lord, 250. + + Faverney, Comtesse de, 157. + + Featherstone, Lieutenant, 239. + + Ferrières, Château de, 162. + + Finch, Hon. Charles, 83. + + Finch-Hatton, Rev. William, 47. + + Finch-Hatton, Greville, 42, 48. + + Finis, Miss, 225. + + Fire burning for two hundred years, 98. + + Firing the eighty-ton gun, 239. + + FitzWilliam, Earl, 106. + + FitzWilliam, Charles, 107. + + FitzWilliam, Hon. John, 77. + + FitzWilliam, Hon. Thomas, 107. + + Foley, Lieutenant, 236. + + Football “colours,” 88. + + Four millionaires, 16. + + Francisco-Martin, M. de, 151. + + Franco-German War, 110. + + Frankfurt-on-the-Main, 1, 12. + + Frederick, Lady, 241. + + French girls and English girls, 140. + + + Gambetta, 166. + + Gayarré, 263. + + Geary, General Sir H., 271 + + German Crown Prince, 263. + + German girls, 133. + + Gilbert, Lieutenant, 262. + + Girard, Juliette, 246. + + Glen, Archibald, 178. + + Godfrey, Dan, 240. + + Goeben, General von, 255. + + Goethe, 15. + + Goldschmid, 10, 15. + + Goldsmid, Mrs., 143. + + Goltz, von der, 132. + + Gordon, Miss, 112. + + Græme, Colonel, 236. + + Grammont, Duchesse de, 143. + + Grandmaison, Marquis de, 160. + + Grant, General, 166. + + Graves, Hon. Mrs., 143. + + Greenock, Viscount, 42. + + Grenfell, Lord, 272. + + Greuze’s paintings, 60. + + Gridley, Harry, 80, 87. + + Gridley, Reginald, 93. + + Griebel, Herr, 92. + + Grosvenor, Earl, 76. + + Guilbert, Marquise Brian de Bois, 156, 157. + + Gull, Sir William, 272. + + Gunning, Sub-Lieutenant Robert, 223, 237. + + + Hale, Mr., 73. + + Harris, Lord, 82. + + Hart, Lieutenant, 205. + + Hartopp, Sir Charles E. C., 117. + + Havre, Baron van, 165. + + Hawtrey, Mr. Stephen, 73. + + Headley, Lord, 117. + + Healy, Mrs., 116. + + Heaviside, Mr., 254. + + Hélène de España, Señorita, 259. + + Henley Regatta, 94. + + Herbert, Hon. Sidney, 82. + + Hobart, Captain, 205. + + Hochberg, Dr. Ritter von, 218. + + Hodgson, Charles Rice, 77. + + Hohler, Tom, 38, 245. + + Holled-Smith, Lieutenant, 223. + + Homburg, 4. + + Home-Purves, Colonel, 49. + + Hope, Lieutenant, 210. + + Hope-Johnstone, Lieutenant P., 233. + + Hornby, Dr., 87, 100. + + Horrocks, Capt., 126. + + Horrocks, Miss Edith, 134. + + Houghton, de, 178. + + Howard, Lieut. F., 241. + + Hozier, J. H. C., 99. + + Hudson, Major, 177. + + Hudson, Mrs., 11. + + Hungerford, Mrs., 244. + + Hunter, Captain, 236. + + Hunter’s, Mr., school, 42 _et seq._ + + Hutchinson, Sir Edward, 7. + + Hutchinson, General Coote, 7. + + + Ind, Mrs., 29. + + Innes-Ker, Lord Mark, 86. + + Isabella, ex-Queen of Spain, 244. + + Isabelle, 141. + + + James, Rev. C. C., 63. + + Jenner, Sir William, 269. + + Joynes, Rev., 73. + + + Kennedy, Lord Alexander, 84. + + Keogh, Mrs., 244. + + Kernave, Madame Alice, 164. + + Killarney, 104. + + Kilmaine, Vicomte Frédéric de, 136. + + Kineton School, 28, 42. + + King (Leopold) of Belgians, 32. + + King William I. of Prussia, 1, 3, 7. + + Kinglake, William, 88. + + Kinglake, Sophia, 112. + + Kinloch, Captain A., 187-8. + + Kinloch, Mrs., 187, 205. + + Kirchhofer’s, Herr, School, 18. + + Kisilieff, Madame, 11. + + Klenck, Freiherr von, 218. + + Knightley, Rev. Henry, 50. + + Knox, Lieutenant-Colonel, 170. + + Krauss, Madame, 245. + + + Labitzky, Auguste, 219. + + Labouchere, Henry, 30. + + Lamoury (violinist), 110. + + Lane, General Ronald, 159. + + Lassalle, Ferdinand, and German women, 63. + + Laval, Mademoiselle de, 141. + + Lavaile, Eugénie de, 246. + + Lawn tennis, Origin of, 192. + + Lawrence, George, 37. + + Leigh, Austin, 72. + + Leigh-Pemberton, Lieutenant-Colonel W., 222, 271. + + Leinster, Duke of, 109. + + Leleu, Madame, 143. + + Leopold II. and his hairdresser, 32. + + Lesseps, M. de, 184. + + Lewinsky, 230. + + Leyton’s at Windsor, 92. + + Liegnitz, Princess, 7. + + Linda, Bertha, 231. + + Lister-Kaye, Cecil, 82, 98. + + Lister-Kaye, John, 82, 95, 98. + + Little, Lieutenant, 210. + + Lloyd, Lieutenant, 178. + + Lockwood, Sir Frank, 124. + + Lonsdale, Earl of, 49. + + “Lord’s,” 96. + + Lovell, Lieutenant, 170-172. + + Lovett, Hubert, 192, 194, 199, 203, 210, 212, 242. + + Lowther, Captain Francis, 166. + + Lumley, Savile, 250. + + Luxmoore, Mr., 67. + + Lyons, Lord, 60. + + + McCall, Colonel, 163. + + McClintock-Bunbury, 100. + + McCormack, Surgeon-Major, 268. + + MacDonnell, Dr., 105. + + Macnamara, Surgeon-Major, 194, 210, 242. + + Magruder, Willing Lee, 12. + + Makart, 231. + + Malet, Sir Edward, 117. + + Malortie, Baron de, 144. + + Maltby, Lieutenant, 169. + + Mandeville, Lord, 77, 98. + + Manners, Henry F. B., 99. + + Marsham, Sub-Lieutenant, 208. + + Masini, Mademoiselle, 245. + + Massey, Lieutenant-Colonel, 206. + + Materna, Frau, 231. + + Ménier, 138. + + Metternich, Princess von, 117. + + Meux, Lady Louisa, 156. + + Milbanke, Frederick, 28. + + Misa, Señor, 258. + + Mitchell, R. A. H., 74. + + Moltke, Count von, 131. + + Montgomery, Colonel H. P., 190. + + Montgomery, Basil, 183, 267. + + Moore, Colonel Montgomery, 188, 202. + + Morny, Duc de, 7. + + Münchhausen, Baron von, 256. + + Murray, Lady Caroline, 5, 40. + + Murray, Lieutenant-General Hon. George, 55. + + Murree and Ischl compared, 201. + + Musard’s concerts, 58. + + + Nares, Sir George, 241. + + Naylor-Leylands, 161. + + Neii, Baron von, 12. + + Neuss, Herr, 229, 230. + + New hats for old, 158. + + Newcastle, Duke of, 38. + + Newcastle, Duchess of, 246. + + Newenham, Mr. (“Sporting Parson”), 47, 49. + + Newlands, Lord, 99. + + Northey, Major, 224, 265. + + + Oden Wald, The, 18. + + Olga, Grand Duchess, and Ludwig II., 30. + + Onslow, Earl of, 82. + + Oppenheim, Frau, 239. + + Orloff, Princess, 31. + + Orton, Surgeon-Major, 254. + + Ostend, 28, 31. + + Oyster, The, 193. + + + Paganini, 157. + + Paget, Lord Henry, 37, 148, 252. + + Paradhenia, Garden of, 185. + + Paris, 116. + + Parnell, Hon. V. A., 99. + + Parnell, Miss Fanny, 153. + + Parry, Sir Hubert, 82. + + Paschinger, 232. + + Patti, Adelina, 54, 58, 263. + + Pauli, Captain, 191. + + Peabody Georges, 134. + + Pembroke and Montgomery, Earl of, 82. + + Peñafiel, Marchioness de, 151. + + “Penny Readings,” 172. + + Perponcher, Count, 8. + + Peterborough’s, Bishop of, “tip,” 107. + + Phipps, Hon. Harriet, 84. + + Phipps, Lieutenant Albert, 196, 210, 211. + + Piétri, Madame, 140. + + Piétris, The, 161. + + Plater, Countess Broel, 138. + + Plessen, Baron von, 135. + + Portman, Hon. E. W. B., 79. + + Prince Consort and Duchess of Sutherland, 56. + + Prussia, King of, 1, 3, 7, 17. + + + Queñones de Léon, Doña, 250. + + + Radziwill, Prince Jean, 137. + + Ralli, Augustus, 93. + + Rampa, Marquis de, 256. + + Rathdonnell, Lord, 100. + + Ranyard, Mr. (astronomer), 123 + + Reeves, Sims, 116. + + Reid, Lieutenant, 216. + + Reszke, Jean de, 264. + + Reuss, Prince, 126. + + Rey, Marquis de, 158. + + Reynardson, Aubrey Birch, 48 + + Ricardo, Horace, 100. + + Riddell, Captain, 29. + + Ridley, C. N., 96. + + Ridley, H. M., 95. + + Riggs, Mrs. Joe, 39. + + Ritter, 231. + + Robartes (11th Hussars), 237. + + Robeck, Captain de, 226. + + Robinson, Captain, 223, 243, 247. + + Ronalds, Mrs., 3, 17. + + Rossmore, Lord, 86. + + Rothschild, Baron F. de, 14. + + Rothschild, Baroness I. E. de, 217. + + Rothschild, Alphonse de, 162. + + Rueff, Mr., 258. + + Ruspoli, Princess, 39. + + Russell, Sub-Lieutenant, 206. + + Russell-Reynolds, Dr., 270. + + Russian Court secrets, 138. + + Rutland, Duke of, 99. + + + Saba, Madame, 152. + + St. James’s Palace, 240. + + Saint Hilaire, Madame, 164. + + Salis Schwabe, Miss, 123. + + Salud, 255. + + Salvini, 244. + + San Carlos, Marquis de, 252. + + Sanford, Sub-Lieutenant, 193. + + Savile, Captain, 236. + + Seville, Archbishop of, 256. + + Saxe-Weimar, Prince Edward of, 250. + + Schiller, 14. + + Schneider, Hortense, 56. + + Schultz, Herr, 268. + + Schwender’s Dancing Hall, 231. + + Shorncliffe, Quarters at, 168. + + Sighicelli, 165. + + Simon, Jules, 111. + + Sivori, 245. + + Slade, Cecil, 140. + + Slade, Harry, 38. + + Smythe, General, 248. + + “Sock”-shops, 87, 88. + + Somerset, Lord Edward, 73, 92, 250. + + Southey, Lieutenant Richard, 168. + + Spa, 33. + + Stafford, Lady Grace, 103. + + Stafford, Marquis of, 90. + + Stormont, Viscountess, 40. + + Strauss, Johann, 231. + + Sully, Mounet, 229. + + Sunstroke, 268. + + + Taaffe, Sub-Lieutenant, 183, 250. + + Taffanel, 165. + + Taille des Essarts, Comtesse de la, 158. + + Taintegnies, Baron de, 28, 30. + + Tarver, Mr. Henry, 76. + + Taylor, Charles, 47. + + Temple (“Mug”), 66. + + Tercin, Gabrielle, 246. + + Thackeray, 5. + + Thackeray, St. John, 74. + + The Alhambra, Granada, 258. + + The diminishing candle, 209. + + “The Oyster,” 193. + + Thorne, Lieutenant, 267. + + Thornton, C. I., 89. + + Thurlow, Lieutenant E. Hovell, 240. + + Torphichen, Lord, 256. + + Trafalgar, Lord, 77. + + Trianon, le Petit, 163. + + Tufnell, Captain, 225. + + Tufton, Captain, 240. + + Tugwell, Mr., 162. + + + Vane, Henry de Vere, 98. + + Vane-Tempest, Hon. Henry, 97. + + Vaughan, Arthur Powys, 194. + + Vay, Baron de, 165. + + Versailles, 163. + + Victoria, Queen, 83, 85. + + Vyse, Howard, 129, 155, 261, 271. + + + Wagner, 231. + + Walden, Lord Howard de, 27. + + Walden, Lady Howard de, 27. + + Waldteufel (composer), 159. + + Walker, H. B., 90. + + Warre, Rev. Edmund, 73. + + Warre-Malet, Sir A., 51. + + Warre-Malet, Miss Mabel, 51. + + Warre-Malet, Mrs., 51, 53. + + Warren, Miss Minnie, 153. + + Waterlot, Mademoiselle, 154. + + Wayte, Mr., 70, 71. + + Wellesley, Colonel, 248. + + Westminster, Duke of, 77. + + Wilkinson, Lieutenant E. O. H., 223. + + Williamson, C. D. Robertson, 78. + + Willing, Misses Lee, 12. + + Wilma, Tournay, 231. + + Winchester, 241. + + Windsor Fair, 86. + + Winkelmann, 231. + + Winsloe, Mrs., 35. + + Wolter, Charlotte, 230. + + Wombwell, Sir George, 249. + + Wood, Sub-Lieutenant, 208. + + Woodforde, Mrs. Charles, 112. + + Würtemberg, King and Queen of, 30. + + Wylie, Lieutenant, 226. + + + York, Duke of, 56. + + Yorke, Hon. Mrs., 237. + + + Zauerthal, Ritter von, 238. + + Zither, The, Lessons on, 165. + + Zither performances, 172, 227. + + PRINTED AT + THE CHAPEL RIVER PRESS, + KINGSTON, SURREY. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75853 *** diff --git a/75853-h/75853-h.htm b/75853-h/75853-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ba818f --- /dev/null +++ b/75853-h/75853-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13124 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title> + Memories of an Old Etonian 1860-1912 | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +a { + text-decoration: none; +} + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2 { + text-align: center; + clear: both; +} + +h2.nobreak { + page-break-before: avoid; +} + +hr { + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb { + width: 45%; + margin-left: 27.5%; + margin-right: 27.5%; +} + +hr.chap { + width: 65%; + margin-left: 17.5%; + margin-right: 17.5%; +} + +img.w100 { + width: 100%; +} + +div.chapter { + page-break-before: always; +} + +ul { + list-style-type: none; +} + +li.indx { + margin-top: .5em; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; +} + +li.ifrst { + margin-top: 2em; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; +} + +p { + margin-top: 0.5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; + text-indent: 1em; +} + +table { + margin: 1em auto 1em auto; + max-width: 35em; + border-collapse: collapse; +} + +td { + padding-left: 2.25em; + padding-right: 0.25em; + vertical-align: top; + text-indent: -2em; + text-align: justify; +} + +.contents .tdc { + padding-left: 0.25em; + text-indent: 0; + text-align: center; + padding-top: 0.75em; +} + +.tdc { + vertical-align: bottom; + text-align: center; +} + +.contents .tdpg { + text-align: right; + padding-top: 0.75em; +} + +.tdpg { + vertical-align: bottom; + text-align: right; +} + +.blockquote { + margin: 1.5em 10%; +} + +.caption p { + text-align: center; + font-size: 90%; + text-indent: 0em; +} + +.caption p.caption-r { + text-align: right; + margin-bottom: 1em; + font-size: 80%; + text-indent: 0em; +} + +.center { + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0em; +} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.footnotes { + margin-top: 1em; + border: dashed 1px; +} + +.footnote { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-size: 0.9em; +} + +.footnote .label { + position: absolute; + right: 84%; + text-align: right; +} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none; +} + +.hanging { + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; +} + +.larger { + font-size: 150%; +} + +.pagenum { + position: absolute; + right: 4%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; +} + +.poetry-container { + text-align: center; +} + +.poetry { + display: inline-block; + text-align: left; +} + +.poetry .stanza { + margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; +} + +.poetry .verse { + padding-left: 3em; +} + +.poetry .indent0 { + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.smaller { + font-size: 80%; +} + +.smcap { + font-variant: small-caps; + font-style: normal; +} + +.tb { + margin-top: 2em; +} + +.titlepage { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 3em; + text-indent: 0em; +} + +.x-ebookmaker img { + max-width: 100%; + width: auto; + height: auto; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .poetry { + display: block; + margin-left: 1.5em; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .blockquote { + margin: 1.5em 5%; +} + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowp100 {width: 100%;} +.illowp45 {width: 45%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp45 {width: 100%;} +.illowp48 {width: 48%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp48 {width: 100%;} +.illowp50 {width: 50%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp50 {width: 100%;} +.illowp53 {width: 53%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp53 {width: 100%;} +.illowp56 {width: 56%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp56 {width: 100%;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75853 ***</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_i"></a>[i]</span></p> + +<h1><i>Memories of an Old Etonian<br> +1860-1912</i></h1> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ii"></a>[ii]</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a>[iii]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="illus01" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus01.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Rev. D. Hornby, Provost of Eton.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>Frontispiece.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iv"></a>[iv]</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p> + +<div style="border-bottom: double black; margin: auto; width: 25em;"> + +<p class="titlepage larger"><i><span class="smcap">Memories of an Old<br> +Etonian</span> :: 1860-1912</i></p> + +<p class="center"><i>By George Greville <span class="smaller">:: Author of “Society Recollections<br> +in Paris and Vienna” and “More Society Recollections.”</span></i></p> + +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter titlepage illowp50" id="tp-deco" style="max-width: 6.25em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/tp-deco.jpg" alt=""> +</figure> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>WITH 22 ILLUSTRATIONS<br> +ON ART PAPER</i></p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO.</i><br> +<i>:: :: PATERNOSTER ROW :: ::</i></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a>[vi]</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> + +</div> + +<table class="contents"> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdpg smaller">PAGE</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER I.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Early Recollections—Thackeray—The Princess Liegnitz—The + Austrian Bandmaster—Society at Homburg—Frankfurt—Goethe + and Beethoven—A Racing Coincidence</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER II.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">18</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>An Adventure in the Oden Wald—The Coiners of the Black + Forest—Kirchhofer’s School</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER III.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">27</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Brussels—Ostend—General Sir John Douglas—Spa—“Captain + Arthy”—Boulogne</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER IV.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">40</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>A Painting by Romney—Hunter’s School at Kineton—Corporal + Punishment—A Sporting Parson—My Schoolfellows at Kineton—The + Warre-Malets—Lord Charleville</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER V.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">54</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>My Mother’s Recollections—The Cercle des Patineurs—Patti—Our + <i>Appartement</i> in the Rue d’Albe</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VI.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">63</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I go to Eton—New Boy Baiting—My House Master—Mr. James’s + “Jokes”—My Room at Eton—Some Eton Masters—A Disorderly + Form—Lacaita’s Silk Hat—“Billy” Portman<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a>[viii]</span></td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">80</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>An Amusing Incident—Lady Caroline Murray—An Anecdote of + Queen Victoria—Lord Rossmore’s Wager—The Match at the + Wall—Practical Jokes—Some Boys at James’s</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">94</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Athletic Sports at Eton—A “Scrap”—Lord Newlands—An + Old Boy on Eton of To-day</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER IX.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">103</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Lady Grace Stopford—Tipperary in 1870—Robbed at Punchestown + Races—I get my own back</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER X.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">110</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Dieppe under Prussian Rule—A Toilette by Worth—A Confirmed + Gambler</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XI.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">116</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Princess von Metternich—The Lady of the Luxembourg + Gardens</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">123</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Bonn—An Anecdote of Beethoven—The King’s Hussars—The + Howard Vyses—A German Professor on England—Domesticated + Habits of German Girls—Professor Delbrück</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">136</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Countess Czerwinska—The Countess Broel Plater—Mlle. de + Laval—The Duchesse de Grammont—An Absent-Minded + Gentleman—Dusauty, the Fencing Master—The Marquis of + Anglesey—Charming Venezuelans—Miss Fanny Parnell</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIV.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">155</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Captain Howard Vyse—An Anecdote of Paganini—New Hats + for Old Ones—Albert Bingham—Baron Alphonse de Rothschild—Madame + Alice Kernave—Gambetta</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XV.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">168</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>My First Night at Mess—Life at Shorncliffe—The Charltons<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix"></a>[ix]</span></td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVI.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">175</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>An N.C.O. of the Old School—Major Blewett—Captain Byron—Sandhurst</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">183</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I sail for India—Kandy—Dangerous Playmates—I arrive at + Murree</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVIII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">190</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>My Brother-Officers—“The Oyster”—In High Society—Our + Menagerie</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIX.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">198</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>A Subalterns’ Court-Martial—A Terrible Experience—High + Mess-bills</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XX.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">205</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sialkote—Amateur Theatricals—An Ingenious Thief—Death + of Albert Phipps—Agra—Voyage to England</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXI.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">217</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Baroness James Édouard de Rothschild—At Carlsbad—Transferred + to the 3rd Battalion</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">222</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>My Brother-Officers—A <i>Mésalliance</i>—Christy Minstrels and + Tobogganing</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXIII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">229</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Sarah Bernhardt in <i>Phèdre</i>—Vienna and Buda-Pesth</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXIV.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">233</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Percy Hope-Johnstone—A “Special” to Aldershot—A Costume-Ball + at Folkestone</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXV.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">238</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Oppenheims—St. James’s and Winchester—The Colonel and + Beauclerk</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXVI.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">244</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Paris Again—Eccentricities of Captain “Rabelais”—A Fire in + Barracks—A Trying Inspection<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x"></a>[x]</span></td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXVII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">252</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Madrid and Cordova—Seville—General von Goeben and the Bull-fight—A + View from the Alhambra—I rejoin my Regiment</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXVIII.</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">262</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I meet Byron Again—I endeavour to Exchange—Basil Montgomery—My + Illness—Why I was not Placed on Half-pay</td> + <td class="tdpg"></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi"></a>[xi]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +</div> + +<table> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdpg smaller" colspan="2">PAGE</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Rev. D. Hornby, Provost of Eton</td> + <td class="tdpg" colspan="2"><a href="#illus01"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mrs. Ronalds</td> + <td><i>Facing p.</i></td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus02">2</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Mrs. R. C. Kemys-Tynte, of Halswell (now Mrs. Rawlins, mother of Lord Wharton)</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus03">3</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author’s Father</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus04">6</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author’s Mother</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus05">12</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author’s Daughter</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus06">20</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author’s Mother</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus07">40</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>C. D. Williamson, at Eton with the Author</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus08">50</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Miss Mabel Warre-Malet</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus09">51</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus10">62</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Charles Balfour, at Eton with the Author</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus11">80</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Miss Minnie Balfour, sister of Hilda, Lady de Clifford</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus12">81</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>W. H. Onslow, aged 13, afterwards Lord Onslow</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus13">82</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Hon. Emily Cathcart, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus14">83</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Henry Hooker Walker, at Eton with the Author</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus15">90</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Hon. J. W. Lowther, present Speaker of the House of Commons</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus16">91</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Duke of Rutland</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus17">98</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The Author’s Father</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus18">144</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Madame Alice Kernave</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus19">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>The late Earl of Berkeley</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus20">165</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Miss Augusta Charlton</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus21">172</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Miss Ida Charlton</td> + <td class="tdc">”</td> + <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus22">173</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> + +<h1>MEMORIES OF AN OLD ETONIAN,<br> +1860-1912</h1> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</h2> + +<p class="hanging">Early Recollections—Thackeray—The Princess Liegnitz—The Austrian Bandmaster—Society +at Homburg—Frankfurt—Goethe and Beethoven—A +Racing Coincidence</p> + +</div> + +<p>It happened so long ago, and I was so very young at +the time—not more than five or six years old—that +I should be almost tempted to believe that it was all a +dream, were it not for certain incidents which made an +unforgettable impression upon my childish imagination. +The scene was the Hôtel de Russie at Frankfurt-on-the-Main; +the occasion the birthday of King William I. of +Prussia, afterwards Emperor of Germany. The spacious +grand staircase of the hôtel was brilliantly lighted, and +a red velvet carpet was laid down on the steps leading +to the first floor. Up these steps came a succession of +Ministers and generals, some in scarlet and gold lace, with +the attila, heavily embroidered with gold lace and edged +with brown fur, falling loosely over the left shoulder. Whenever +an Austrian general, in his white uniform with scarlet +facings and red trousers with deep gold lace stripe down +the side, appeared, my heart, for some unknown reason, +seemed to beat with delight. How I came to be there I +don’t quite know, but I can remember my surprise when +I saw the big chandelier which hung over the staircase +being lighted in broad daylight, and the red blinds near +the entrance being drawn down, which gave me a curious<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span> +impression, making me feel almost as though I were present +at a funeral. It was, however, merely done to create a +more imposing effect.</p> + +<p>A great silence pervaded the whole of the Hôtel de +Russie; no one but royal servants stood by the front door; +and the only sound which I can recollect was the clinking +of the sword worn by a general in full uniform as he mounted +the red-carpeted stairs. On approaching a door on the +first floor, the general or Minister gave his name in a +mysterious whisper, when, after a few seconds, the door +was opened, and I heard a kind of buzzing noise, as of +several persons talking at once in low tones. Then I +can remember that, after a long interval, which seemed +hours to me, the mysterious folding-doors were thrown wide +open, and a veritable kaleidoscope of colour presented itself +to my wondering eyes. It was the effect of the various +uniforms worn by the Ministers and generals, as they +emerged <i>en masse</i> from the room and began to descend the +staircase, talking loudly as they passed.</p> + +<p>Soon afterwards, when they had all taken their departure, +the brilliant lights were lowered, and silence again descended +on the hôtel. That is all I can remember, and of what +became of me afterwards I have no recollection. That +afternoon remains in my memory like a fairy-tale, and so +comical did it appear to me, that I have often thought of +it since. There was something so mysterious about the +way each Minister and general entered that door after +whispering his name; and then the buzz of conversation, +which was distinctly audible during the few seconds the +door stood open, to be succeeded by an almost death-like +silence.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus02" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus02.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Mrs. Ronalds.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 2.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp56" id="illus03" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus03.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Mrs. R. C. Kemys-Tynte, of Halswell (now Mrs. +Rawlins, mother of Lord Wharton).</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 3.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>I can remember, just about this time, being alone in an +immense salon with six windows, all of which overlooked +the Zeil, one of the principal streets in Frankfurt. At either +extremity of this room stood a big stove of white porcelain, +and its walls were decorated with large pictures. One of +these pictures represented the capture of Troy. The town +was in flames, and a huge, grey wooden horse stood in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span> +foreground, with a hole in its side from which soldiers +were emerging and descending a ladder supported against +the horse’s flank. This was one of my favourite pictures +in the room. Another represented the Cyclopes, with their +one eye in the centre of their forehead, engaged in heating +an iron bar in a furnace. I remember that I used frequently +to contemplate this picture and wonder what it all meant, +and if the Cyclopes really existed and where they lived. +At night, it used rather to frighten me, particularly when I +was left alone in the room, which frequently happened at +this time. Another picture represented Venus, with Cupid +aiming one of his arrows at her. This rather pleased me. +I did not know then the mischief wrought by Cupid’s +arrows, and, in my innocence, was simple enough to believe +that Venus was an angel of love; and I pitied her for being +struck by one of Cupid’s arrows, which, in another picture +in the room, had penetrated her bosom, causing a stream +of blood to trickle down the alabaster whiteness of her +body. The room had two large chandeliers, but when I +was alone in it, only one of them was lighted.</p> + +<p>I can remember once, during the daytime, while looking +out of the window, I saw some Prussian Hussars, in their +dark-blue uniforms trimmed with silver lace, riding past. +One of the horses shied at something, and its rider fell +heavily, which caused a great crowd to assemble. I don’t +know what happened afterwards; it was just one of those +things that I saw as though in a dream.</p> + +<p>I recollect on one occasion occupying the bedroom and +sleeping in the bed used by the King of Prussia when he +visited Frankfurt. This room was very gorgeously furnished, +the walls being draped with dark-blue satin, while +the bed had a canopy surrounded by heavy curtains of +blue silk.</p> + +<p>So far as I can remember, it must have been some months +after this that I spent an evening in the room where the +King of Prussia’s birthday-fête had been held. It was then +occupied by the late Mrs. Ronalds, a lovely woman, quite +young, with the most glorious smile one could possibly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span> +imagine and most beautiful teeth. Her face was perfectly +divine in its loveliness; her features small and exquisitely +regular. Her hair was of a dark shade of brown—<i>châtain +foncé</i>—and very abundant. I was in Mrs. Ronalds’s care +on this occasion, and I can still see her before me as she was +then, and remember that she spoke with a slight American +accent. The late Captain Frederick Dorrien, of the 1st +Life Guards, an old Etonian and a very handsome man, +whom Queen Victoria called “her handsome lieutenant,” +after inquiring his name when he rode beside her carriage +one day in full uniform, came to pay Mrs. Ronalds a visit +that evening; and I can still remember her singing in a very +beautiful voice, which everyone praised enthusiastically, +and also a tiny watch set in brilliants, and always very +much admired, which she wore on her finger.</p> + +<p>I used to be taken occasionally to the Zoological Gardens +at Frankfurt, where a Prussian military band played on +Sunday afternoons, and I took a fancy to what I thought +was a large dog. I used to stroke it, and it often licked +my hand after I had fed it with biscuits and seemed to +know me. One day, however, to my surprise, I saw it put +into the same cage as the wolves, and learned that it was +a wolf, which had been placed for a time in a cage by itself. +I still felt a great wish to stroke it, but was not allowed to +do so.</p> + +<p>Whether it was some months later or some months earlier +than this I cannot say, for, with a child, such things as +time and space are of no account, which brings a child +nearer to the Divinity than grown-up people. I can only +recall giving my hand, when at Homburg vor der Höhe, to +what seemed to me an elderly gentleman, who often took +me across the garden of the Kurhaus and up the steps of +the Kursaal into the restaurant, where, seated at a buffet, +was a stout, pleasant-looking old lady, who always greeted +me affectionately and gave me, at the gentleman’s request, +my favourite fruit, nectarines and <i>amandes vertes</i>. I can +remember how kind this gentleman always was to me, +taking me constantly for walks in the garden of the Kurhaus,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span> +and always holding me by the hand. The name of the +pleasant old lady was Madame Chevet, a Parisienne, to +whom the restaurant at the Kurhaus belonged, and the +gentleman, who was a great friend of my parents, was +Thackeray, the author of “Vanity Fair.” I can remember +nothing else about him, except that he appeared to be very +devoted to me.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>I used to wear white frocks with lace and embroidery, +some of which had been given to my mother for me by +H.R.H. the Duchess of Gloucester, when my mother’s +aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, was lady-in-waiting to Her +Royal Highness.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> I used at that time to be dressed like<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span> +a girl, with my hair in long, dark-brown ringlets, and on +one occasion my mother took me up to a very plain English +lady in the grounds of the Kursaal, when the latter exclaimed: +“What a pretty boy? He is more like a girl!” +Then, turning to me, she said: “My dear, will you allow +me to kiss you?” “Yes,” I answered, and, holding up +my bare arm, I added: “Kiss my elbow.” My mother +tried to persuade me to allow the lady to kiss me, but +I only cried and said: “Oh! not my face, only my elbow!”</p> + +<p>One day, I remember, I was playing in the grounds of the +Kursaal with a large india-rubber ball with two little girls, +when a lady called them away, saying to the little girls, +who were her daughters: “You must not play with a boy +when you don’t know who he is.” That same evening, the +Countess of Desart, who was lady-in-waiting to Queen +Victoria, was dining at Madame Chevet’s restaurant at the +Kurhaus with my parents, and, happening to hear of what +had occurred to me in the morning, said to my mother: +“I will pay that woman out for her insolence. She is a +nobody, and only the wife of a Law lord.” When Lady +C——, the mother of the two little girls, arrived for dinner +at the Kurhaus, the countess purposely did not rise to +enter the dining-room for a very long time, which annoyed +Lady C—— immensely, as she dared not enter the dining-room +until the countess had risen from her seat to do so. +At dinner the countess said to Lady C: “I can understand +how careful you have to be about whom your girls +play with, as you don’t quite know how to discriminate +between common children and others.” Lady C—— +blushed crimson, but did not venture to make any reply.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span> +The Countess of Desart maintained quite a princely establishment +at Homburg, having a French chef at her villa +and a number of English servants, with carriages and +horses besides.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus04" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus04.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author’s Father.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 6.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Among my father’s friends then at Homburg was Sir +Edward Hutchinson, whom the Prince Consort said was +the handsomest man in England. His brother, General +Coote Hutchinson, was also at Homburg. He had been a +colonel at six-and-twenty, and was for many years the +youngest general in the English Army.</p> + +<p>At Homburg we lived in a villa on the Unter Promenade, +in which the Princess Liegnitz, the morganatic wife of +Frederick III. of Prussia, also resided. I can remember +so well a box of toys representing various animals which +the Princess gave me, and also the Princess and her daughter +driving up to the villa one day when I was walking with +my father, when he made me go and speak to them. My +father afterwards gave me a beautiful bouquet of red roses, +which I took to Princess Liegnitz’s salon, at which she +seemed pleased, and, when she thanked me for them, gave +me a kiss. King William of Prussia often visited his +father’s widow at the villa, where the Princess held a +regular Court, and was treated as though she were Queen +of Prussia, even by the King. When he met me in the +grounds, His Majesty often gave me bonbons, and usually +kissed me. I had at that time a very pretty English nurse, +and King William was well known to be a great admirer +of pretty faces. My pride was somewhat wounded when I +was told that His Majesty’s attentions to me may have been +due in a very great measure to the attractions of my nurse.</p> + +<p>When the Princess Liegnitz left Homburg, great preparations +were made at the villa for the Duc de Morny,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> +who intended to come and stay there. But before he left +Paris for Homburg he was suddenly taken ill and died. +His death caused a great sensation everywhere, and his +servants, who had already arrived at the villa, went away +at once and returned to Paris.</p> + +<p>Once a fortnight, on Sunday, an Austrian military band +used to come from Rastatt to play in the grounds of the +Kursaal. It played both in the afternoon and evening, +and people sat on the lawns, enjoying the very fine music. +Sometimes the Prussian military band came from Frankfurt, +on which occasions I invariably used to cry. I sometimes +sat with my parents on a Sunday on the lawns. Count +Perponcher, Oberst-Hofmeister to the King of Prussia,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> +the Countess of Desart, Sir Frederick Slade and his family, +or other friends, generally sat with them. Count Perponcher +was a most agreeable and distinguished-looking +man, and a great admirer of the Countess of Desart. The +latter was not only a great beauty, but had a certain +“grand air” about her, which is, as a rule, only to be +found amongst the old nobility.</p> + +<p>One day, when the Austrian military band was playing, +my nurse and I had our early dinner at the Hôtel de +l’Europe. Opposite to us, sitting at the <i>table d’hôte</i>, was +the bandmaster Jeschko, with a very pretty woman seated +on either side of him. I noticed that he was making love +to both of them, and said to my nurse:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span></p> + +<p>“Look at the Austrian bandmaster: he has two such +pretty wives!”</p> + +<p>“You silly boy, why do you talk such nonsense?” +answered my nurse.</p> + +<p>“But he is making love to both, and so they are to him,” +I persisted.</p> + +<p>“You should not look at people you don’t know; they +may be his sisters.”</p> + +<p>“I am sure they are not, for look at papa and his sisters.”</p> + +<p>“Well, whatever they may be, it is not for a child like +you to ask about them. I’ve no doubt that one is the +gentleman’s wife and the other his sister.”</p> + +<p>“Couldn’t they both be his wives?”</p> + +<p>“No; such a thing would not be allowed.”</p> + +<p>I continued to gaze at this handsome man, with his very +long, fair moustache, highly curled. He seemed so good-looking +in his white uniform with its pink facings, and the +two ladies kept stroking his hands on the table and looking +with admiration into his blue eyes. They both addressed +him as “<i>Du</i>,” and appeared so very fond of him, that I +said to myself that I could quite understand these girls +being in love with him, as he was so handsome. The white +uniform and the fine military appearance of this Austrian +bandmaster at table no doubt greatly impressed my childish +imagination, as I had never seen any one like him before, +while his fair companions were both excessively pretty and +dressed in the most charming confections imaginable. It +was a sight which, when I grew older, never faded from +my memory, while many other events, perhaps of far greater +importance, were entirely obliterated. Stilgebauer, a very +celebrated modern German author, who wrote “Love’s +Inferno,” says: “Only that which we do not wish to, or +may not, remember is over; everything else is ours and +never over or lost to us.”</p> + +<p>At Homburg, when the Austrian military band played, +the grounds at night were illuminated with red, white and +blue lights, and the fireworks were the admiration of the +whole world, as M. Blanc spared no expense whatever.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> +This, indeed, he could well afford to do, in view of the +immense profits he derived from the gaming-tables.</p> + +<p>There was at Homburg in those days a young French girl +of noble family, who was about thirteen years of age and +very lovely, with a beautiful complexion. She was always +exquisitely dressed, usually in white tulle with a great deal +of lace, and was admired by everyone. This youthful beauty +used to play a game of forfeits in a ring with some boys, +who always arranged as a forfeit for the girl that she should +kiss them. One day, when I was about seven years old, +the children invited me to play with them. I did so, and +was kissed by the little girl, at which I was much ashamed, +as, though I rather liked being kissed by her, I was +decidedly bashful when the operation was performed in the +presence of so many people. And so, when I was asked to +play again, I refused. This young lady often got her lovely +white dress torn to shreds by the rough boys who played +with her, but she went on playing every day all the same.</p> + +<p>I remember once travelling by train with my father from +Homburg to Frankfurt, when Goldschmid, a wealthy Jewish +banker with red hair, who was in the same compartment, +went fast to sleep. My father told me he was going to have +some fun with him, and was pretending to take away his +watch and chain, when Goldschmid suddenly woke up and +exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Gott, wirklich ich dachte Sie hätten meine Uhr weggenommen!</i>”</p> + +<p>He was evidently under the impression that my father +had evil intentions, and it was not for some time afterwards +that he could understand that it was only a joke. Goldschmid, +many years afterwards, was ruined by his own +brother, and committed suicide by drowning himself in +the Main. They were cent. per cent. Jew moneylenders +and bankers, who helped to ruin many English people in +those days at Homburg.</p> + +<p>I can well recollect seeing my father on one occasion in conversation +with Garcia, a dark, good-looking Italian, who had +several times broken the bank at Homburg by his high play.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> +He had begun his gambling operations when quite a poor +man. I can also recollect Madame Kisilieff, who was a great +gambler in those days, and was a good deal with my parents +at Homburg. She was an immensely wealthy Russian lady +of noble birth, who lived there <i>en grand luxe</i>.</p> + +<p>The English colony at Homburg during the gambling days +was very different from what it is now. There was more +youth and beauty to be seen there and more of the aristocracy; +whereas to-day more old people and wealthy <i>parvenus</i> go to +Homburg during the season. Chevet’s Restaurant, though +dreadfully expensive, was excellent; while the modern +German one, though also dear, is not especially good.</p> + +<p>I cannot recollect what year it was, but I can remember +the Railway King, Hudson, taking another boy named +Jeffreys and myself, whom I afterwards met at Eton, to +dine with him at Chevet’s Restaurant, where he regaled us +with every kind of luxury that the place could provide. My +mother once told me a story about Mrs. Hudson, which she +had heard from her father:—</p> + +<p>Mrs. Hudson one day received a visit from the Duke of +Wellington, whom she saw arrive, accompanied by a well-dressed +and very distinguished-looking man, who remained +outside when the Duke entered the house. Presently it +came on to rain heavily.</p> + +<p>“I will ask your friend up out of the rain,” said Mrs. +Hudson to the Duke.</p> + +<p>The Duke replied that the man was his servant; but +Mrs. Hudson, who could not bring herself to believe that +such an aristocratic-looking person could be the servant +even of the Duke of Wellington, and thought that the latter +was joking, insisted on the man being shown upstairs.</p> + +<p>My grandfather’s brother-in-law, General the Hon. Sir +George Cathcart, was A.D.C. to the Duke of Wellington at +Waterloo, and was second-in-command to Lord Raglan in +the Crimea, where he was killed at Inkermann. He was my +godfather, and I often heard my father say that he always +had a cigar in his mouth, even in action. Once he was asked +by the authorities at the War Office how long he required<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span> +to get ready for active service. His answer was that he +was ready to go anywhere at twenty-four hours’ notice.</p> + +<p>My parents, one year, lived at the Hôtel de Russie at +Frankfurt, going to Homburg in the evenings. There was +a Baron von Neii, an Austrian major of dragoons, staying +at the “Russie.” He was married to an Englishwoman, but +they had no children, and, taking a great fancy to me, he +wanted to adopt me and give me the right to bear his name +and title, which is frequently done in Austria. He and his +wife lived afterwards at Beaulieu, near Nice, where they +had a charming villa with a beautiful rose-garden, where I +have been to see them in more recent years.</p> + +<p>Baron von Neii told me that there was once an Englishman, +a Major Isaacson, in his regiment, who could not speak +two words of the Hungarian language. Nevertheless, he +contrived to retain his place in the regiment for many years, +being always prompted when he had to give orders by a +sergeant. One day, however, during an inspection by a +general, the sergeant happened to be away, with the consequence +that the poor officer was perfectly helpless, and, +after calling out several wrong words of command, was +detected and placed on half-pay.</p> + +<p>There were at this time at Homburg two Misses Lee +Willing, nieces of the famous General Lee, of the Southerners. +One was a great beauty, who, it was reported, had received +innumerable offers of marriage, from a prince downwards, +but had refused them all. She was called the “Destroying +Angel,” because she had been the cause of so many duels +being fought on her account. She was constantly in the +company of my parents, and, many years later, we met her +again in Paris. So far as I can remember, she could never +decide to take a husband, and died in Paris while still a +great beauty.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp50" id="illus05" style="max-width: 29.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus05.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author’s Mother.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 12.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Her cousin, Willing Lee Magruder, had been with the Emperor +Maximilian of Mexico at the time he was shot by his +revolted subjects, and only escaped a similar fate by the +skin of his teeth. His sister was lady-in-waiting to the +Empress Charlotte of Mexico, and, after the Emperor’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> +death, the brother and sister occasionally dined with us +in Paris, and we often met them in later years in Paris +society. When leaving Mexico, Magruder and his sister +were shipwrecked, and he told me that they passed several +hours in the sea clinging to a plank. At night they were +rescued by a passing ship, almost exhausted by hunger, +thirst and fatigue. His sister never quite recovered from +the shock to her system, and suffered much from a nervous +complaint ever afterwards.</p> + +<p>I can remember that, while at the Hôtel de Russie, my +mother used constantly to be reading French novels, which, +during her absences at Homburg, my French nurse used +to get hold of. I was particularly interested in <i>la Reine +Margot</i> and <i>le Chevalier de Maison Rouge</i>, by Alexandre +Dumas <i>père</i>, which delighted me more than any other +books. I read “Joseph Andrews,” which my father bought +for me, but he told me that he thought I was not quite old +enough to appreciate or even to understand most of it.</p> + +<p>I used always to be much interested in the Eschenheimer +Thor at Frankfurt, as at the top of it there was a tiny iron +flag, in which nine holes were pierced, representing the figure +nine. The story about this flag is that a certain poacher, +who had been arrested and condemned to death for shooting +deer, was offered a pardon, if he could put nine bullets into +the flag in such a way as to form the figure nine. This he +succeeded in doing, and was set at liberty.</p> + +<p>When you looked at the flag this seemed hardly credible; +it was so tiny, and the nine was so wonderfully pierced. +The Eschenheimer Thor has since disappeared to make room +for the so-called improvements of Frankfurt.</p> + +<p>I can remember being taken to the celebrated Römer at +Frankfurt, where the Emperors of Germany were formerly +crowned. The Kaisersaal, where the coronation used to +take place, was an immense room, containing portraits of the +different Emperors. I was much interested in Karl I., and +still more in Rudolph von Hapsburg, the ancestor of the +present Emperor of Austria, and I also took particular note +of those of Günther von Schwarzburg and Maximilian I.,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span> +as I was very fond of German history. The coronation room +was beautifully decorated, the walls and doors being sumptuously +gilded. On the latter were represented several +children, wearing royal crowns and garments of gold, which +pleased me very much.</p> + +<p>Another time, I was taken by my French nurse, so far as +I can remember, to see Dannecker’s celebrated statue of +Ariadne, and was somewhat startled at finding myself in a +perfectly dark room, in which you could only see a red velvet +curtain facing you. Soon, however, the curtain was drawn +back, when a perfectly white statue of a nude woman riding +upon a lion appeared before us. The woman was exquisitely +formed, and was reclining indolently upon the animal’s +back. A rose-coloured light was thrown upon the statue, +which made its hue all the more dazzling, and it revolved +slowly on its axis, so as to display the lovely form of the +woman to better advantage. I was glad that it was dark, +for I fancied that I should have felt more awkward if anyone +had seen me. As it was, I blushed crimson, and was +pleased to get into the street. All the same, I have never +forgotten this lovely statue and the rose-coloured light +employed to show off its beauty.</p> + +<p>I went to the Jewish quarter, where the old tumbledown +house in which the Rothschilds had once lived<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> was pointed +out to me, but it was such a dirty quarter of the town that +I never returned there. I once visited the Synagogue, and +was surprised to see all the men wearing their hats. It +made me think of the time of Christ, and that with certain +Jews very little had altered since those days. I wondered<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span> +why such men as Goldschmid at Homburg were allowed to +carry on their villainous trade with Christians.</p> + +<p>The new theatre at Frankfurt is a very fine building, in +which there is a statue of Goethe, which is greatly admired. +An amusing anecdote is related of Goethe, who was born +at Frankfurt. One day he and Beethoven were walking +together, and many people who met them raised their hats. +“How tiresome it often is to be recognized by so many +persons!” complained Goethe. To which Beethoven replied +somewhat maliciously: “Perhaps it is me they are +greeting.”</p> + +<p>Speaking of Goethe, the celebrated Austrian poet Grillparzer +says:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Schiller geht nach oben, Goethe kommt von oben.</i> +His characters usually say everything beautiful that can +be said about a subject, and for nothing in the world +would I care to miss any of the beautiful speeches in <i>Tasso</i> +and <i>Iphigenia</i>, but they are not dramatic. That is why +Goethe’s plays are so charming to read and so bad to act. +However much we may think of Goethe, the fact remains +that his <i>Wanderjahre</i> is no work, the second part of <i>Faust</i> +no poem, the maxims of the last period no lyrics. Goethe +may be a greater poet, and no doubt is; but Schiller is a +greater possession for the nation, which requires vivid +impressions in our sickly times. Goethe’s Wilhelm Meister +and Philine Sarto and the Countess have all distinct and +artistically well-formed characters, though they are all in +danger of being condemned as without any character. This +fate they share with Hamlet and Phèdre, with King Lear +and Richard II.; perhaps also with Macbeth and Othello. +The <i>Wahlverwandtschaften</i> is a great masterpiece. In knowledge +of humanity, wisdom, sentiment and poetic strain it +has not its equal in any literature. With the exception of +those produced by Goethe in his youth, his works were not +popular with the nation, and the great respect shown him +was the result of the admiration which his masterpieces of +the past had aroused.”</p> + +<p>Frederick the Great said of Goethe: “His early works<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span> +are too natural, and his late ones too artificial. Besides, +he is an immoral poet. Fallen girls are his favourite +characters.” A very true saying of Frederick the Great +is: “A court of justice which pronounces an unjust +sentence is worse than a band of murderers.” Frederick +was always a great admirer of Voltaire, and one of his +famous sayings is: “<i>Unsere Unsterblichkeit ist, den +Menschen Wohlthaten zu erweisen</i>.” (“Our immortality +consists in performing good deeds to mankind.”)</p> + +<p>In recent years I went to the celebrated Palmen Garden +in Frankfurt, where the palm-trees are all from the late +Duke of Nassau’s beautiful palace at Biebrich. I went +there with an English lady to an afternoon concert. My +companion remarked how ordinary all the people looked +compared with those one saw at a concert at Vienna, and +drew my attention to a table at which sat four men dressed +in very shabby, old-fashioned clothes. I was anxious to +remain and hear the concert out, but was afraid the lady +might decide to leave early, owing to the little interest she +appeared to find in the audience. So I said at random:—</p> + +<p>“You are quite right, but with regard to the men sitting +at that table, I should not be surprised if they were millionaires.”</p> + +<p>She laughed and seemed to be much amused at the +idea, and a waiter coming up just at that moment with +some coffee and cakes we had ordered, I asked him if +he knew who the four men were. He replied at once:—</p> + +<p>“They are four millionaires.”</p> + +<p>I may mention that I had never seen these men before +in my life, and was only staying at Frankfurt two days.</p> + +<p>At Franzenbad, from which I had just come, I had a +singular experience. On entering the Kursaal one Saturday +afternoon a programme of the music was handed me. The +piece which was being played was a polka, by Edward Strauss, +called <i>Con Amore</i>, and I noticed that each of the eight +pieces on the programme contained a letter of this name. +I took this as a kind of presentiment, and the same day telegraphed +to a bookmaker named Hörner, in the Krugerstrasse<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span> +at Vienna, to back the horse of this name running in the +principal event in the Baden races the following Sunday. +He duly executed my commission, and the horse won, +though it did not start favourite. I won very little, however, +as the odds were not as long as I had expected. The programme +of the concert at Franzensbad was as follows:—</p> + +<table> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="3">Saturday, 25th June, 1904. Kurhaus, 4 p.m.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>1.</td> + <td>Wiedermann Marsch</td> + <td>Oelschlegel.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>2.</td> + <td>Ouverture, Oberon</td> + <td>Weber.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>3.</td> + <td>Ballerinen Walzer</td> + <td>Weinberger.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>4.</td> + <td>Potpourri aus Obersteiger</td> + <td>Zeller.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>5.</td> + <td>Con Amore Polka</td> + <td>Ed. Strauss.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>6.</td> + <td>Ouverture, Belagerung von Corinth</td> + <td>Rossini.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>7.</td> + <td>Am Spinnrad</td> + <td>Eilenberg.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>8.</td> + <td>Frisch heran Galop</td> + <td>Johann Strauss.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p>The Hôtel de Russie, in those days, occupied the site of +the present Post Office. It was originally a palace, and the +rooms were magnificent, particularly those reserved for the +King of Prussia, which my parents occupied for a time, as +did Mrs. Ronalds. Otherwise, this suite of rooms was +always kept for the King of Prussia when he cared to visit +Frankfurt, which His Majesty often did, staying there +usually some time. The proprietor of the Hôtel de Russie +was a certain Herr Ried, and, on his death, it was purchased +by the Drexel brothers, who are now wine-merchants of +some celebrity in Frankfurt.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</h2> + +<p class="center">An Adventure in the Oden Wald—The Coiners of the Black +Forest—Kirchhofer’s School</p> + +</div> + +<p>When I was seven years old, my parents left me at a +school in Frankfurt, kept by Herr Kirchhofer, a +good-looking, fair-haired man of thirty-five. He was married +and had an only son named August, who in later years +entered the Austrian Army, and got terribly into debt when +a lieutenant. His father paid his debts, but after he married +he got into further trouble, and ended by shooting himself, +while still quite young. During my stay at this school I +spoke nothing but German all day, with the exception of a +little French occasionally, and, in consequence, completely +forgot the English language for the time being.</p> + +<p>One day, Herr Kirchhofer told one of the assistant masters, +Herr Wolf, a young man of five-and-twenty, that he might +take six of the boys, of whom I was one, for a three days’ excursion +in the Oden Wald. We started at five o’clock in the +morning and walked for some hours, when I became so tired +that I could go no farther. So Close, an English boy of +eighteen, who was going into the Austrian Army, and +another boy, a German, carried me on a kind of camp-stool +a long way.</p> + +<p>When we got to the Oden Wald, we wandered about +collecting plants, which Herr Wolf required for his lessons in +botany. Then, after dining at an inn, we started again, +with the intention of reaching a village which the master +knew by name. On the way we passed a small village, +where a man offered to take charge of me, and I was very<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span> +much afraid our master would leave me with him. I begged +him not to do so, and was greatly relieved when he said:</p> + +<p>“You don’t think I should be so foolish? Why, the +man might run off with you.”</p> + +<p>Some time afterwards, it began to grow quite dark, and +Herr Wolf became much alarmed, as we had completely lost +our way in the forest. However, we saw some lights in the +distance, and walked on until we came to a small village, +where there was a house which purported to be an inn, +though all its windows were broken and mended with pieces +of newspaper.</p> + +<p>Herr Wolf entered this uninviting hostelry and inquired +if we could have one large room to sleep in, as he told Close +and another big boy, a German, that he was afraid that +we might possibly be murdered in the night, if we were +separated. I may here mention that, in those days, some +parts of the Oden Wald were infested by gangs of robbers, +and instances were known of people being given beds which +revolved in the night and precipitated their unfortunate +occupants into pits beneath the floor.</p> + +<p>The inn-keeper, a sinister-looking personage, with his face +almost entirely covered with hair, said that he had not a +room large enough to accommodate our whole party, but +that we could have two rooms. Herr Wolf asked if they +were near each other, to which the man replied that one +was upstairs, but the other on the ground floor. The master, +looking much annoyed, asked to see the rooms, and, after +inspecting them, inquired if Close had a revolver with him. +The latter said he had not, though he had brought a sword-stick. +But another boy, an American, called Sydney +Chapin, exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“I have a loaded revolver with me.”</p> + +<p>“That’s famous!” replied Herr Wolf. “Then you must +give it me, for I will occupy the room on the ground floor +with George, and you others must sleep upstairs.”</p> + +<p>The master then took the revolver, and told Close that +he must take charge of the other boys in the room +upstairs.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> + +<p>When this had been arranged, we all entered the so-called +dining-room, a large room, with whitewashed walls. Its +windows, like all the rest in the house, were broken and +patched with newspapers; the ceiling was so low that you +could almost touch it with your hands, and crossed by large +beams. In one part of this room, four rough-looking men +were playing cards and drinking beer out of mugs. They +were in their shirt sleeves, with sleeves tucked up to the +elbow, displaying very muscular arms, while their shirts, +open at the neck, showed their naked chests covered with +hair. Although it was summer and excessively hot, all of +them wore fur caps.</p> + +<p>They were playing by the glimmer of a solitary tallow +candle, which was the only light in the room, and when we +took our seats with our master at another table, we found +ourselves almost in the dark. Presently, our supper was +brought us, consisting of cold meat and mugs of beer, and +Herr Wolf asked for a candle. The inn-keeper muttered +sullenly that he had none.</p> + +<p>“What! Have you no light of any description?” asked +the master.</p> + +<p>“No, I have just told you so,” was the reply.</p> + +<p>Herr Wolf was visibly alarmed, but Close whispered to +him:—</p> + +<p>“I have a box of matches.”</p> + +<p>“<i>Gott sei dank!</i>” exclaimed the other.</p> + +<p>After some whispered instructions to Close, the master +rose from the table, when I observed the card-players casting +surreptitious glances in our direction, although they pretended +to be absorbed in their game. Herr Wolf then +took me through the darkness into the bedroom on the +ground floor, the gloom of which was partially relieved by +a slight glimmer from the moon, which penetrated through +the broken window. He struck a match, and, having shown +me my bed, which stood near the window, told me to undress +and go to bed. I did as he told me, and he then said that +he was going upstairs to see after the other boys.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp50" id="illus06" style="max-width: 29.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus06.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author’s Daughter.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 20.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>While I lay in bed, I heard some noisy women passing the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> +window. One of them put her head through one of the +broken panes, and, on seeing me in bed, burst out laughing. +Afterwards there was a dead silence, only interrupted occasionally +by the loud oaths of the men playing cards in the +dining-room, who appeared to be disputing about some +money which had changed hands. The noise they made +was becoming louder and louder, when I heard the door +open, and Herr Wolf entered and inquired if I were asleep. +He then went out again, saying that he would return later. +The noise made by the gamblers then appeared to cease, +and my weariness overcoming my fears, I suddenly dropped +off to sleep.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning I awoke, and saw Herr Wolf dressing +himself. I hardly knew where I was, when, on seeing that +I was awake, he said:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Du bist famos geschlafen, George.</i>”</p> + +<p>After I had dressed, he told me to come with him into the +dining-room, where all the others were gathered, and, after +taking some coffee and black bread, we left the inn. Soon +afterwards, Herr Wolf told the boys that he had never been +so alarmed in his life, and that he was quite positive that +if the men at the inn had not known that some of the boys +were armed, we should most probably have been murdered +for the sake of our clothes and the money we had about us. +He added that he had not slept a wink all night, as he knew +what sort of men he had to deal with, and that they were of +the very lowest type imaginable and capable of committing +any crime to obtain a few groschen.</p> + +<p>At the time of which I am speaking, there were so many +murders perpetrated near Homburg, owing to the gambling +which went on there, that the police never knew whether +they had really to deal with a suicide or a murder. The +Oden Wald had then quite as bad a reputation as the Black +Forest, which was infested by whole gangs of robbers and +murderers. Herr Wolf told us a story of a man who, having +lost his way in the Oden Wald, put up for the night at a +small inn near a village, where they gave him some coffee +before he went to bed. He could not sleep, and in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> +middle of the night he got up, lighted a candle and began +examining a picture opposite his bed, which represented a +man wearing a Rembrandt hat with a long feather. Gradually, +it seemed to him that the feather was becoming shorter; +soon he could see only a part of the hat, and then merely the +face. The man, thinking that there must be something +wrong with him, jumped out of bed and approached the +picture, which he found was exactly as when he had first +seen it. But, on looking at his bed, he perceived that the +baldachin over the four-poster was suspended by a chain +from above the ceiling, and was gradually working its way +downwards. An examination of the moving baldachin +revealed the fact that it was made of massive iron, beneath +which he would infallibly have been crushed to death. +Dressing in all haste, and holding a pistol which he had +about him ready to fire in case of need, the destined victim +left the room and stealthily descended the stairs. By good +fortune he met no one, and letting himself out of the house, +made his way to Homburg, where he informed the police +of the murderous trap which had been laid for him. It was +evident that the coffee which he had drank overnight had +been drugged; but, most providentially for him, the drug +had had the contrary effect to that intended, and had kept +him awake, instead of sending him to sleep.</p> + +<p>Herr Wolf told us other stories of the Black Forest, in +which there were inns with revolving beds, which upset the +persons who occupied them into pits beneath the floor, +where the heavy fall generally killed them at once; and +Baron Vogelsang, a good-looking Bavarian boy, with blue +eyes and curly brown hair, related the following anecdote:</p> + +<p>During the time of the great Napoleon,<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> the Emperor<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> +sent on one of his aides-de-camp to Germany with important +despatches. This A.D.C. had to traverse the Black Forest, +and on arriving as evening was falling at a certain country +house, asked if he could be accommodated for the night. A +room was given him, but, at the same time, he was warned +that the house was haunted, and, sure enough, in the middle +of the night a ghost duly put in an appearance. The Frenchman, +who had no belief in the supernatural, promptly +snatched up a pistol and levelled it at the spectre, who +thereupon vanished. The A.D.C. then hurried to the spot +where the ghost had first appeared, when the floor suddenly +gave way beneath him, and he fell what seemed a great +distance. For the moment he was stunned by the fall, +and, on recovering his senses, found himself surrounded by a +number of men, who were debating whether they should +kill him. He, however, explained who he was, and showed +them the despatches from Napoleon of which he was the +bearer; and the men, fearing the vengeance of the Emperor, +should the crime they were meditating ever be discovered, +agreed to set him at liberty, on condition that he would take +an oath to say nothing of what had happened to him in that +house. They then told him that they were coiners, and that +they killed everyone who slept at the house, but that they +usually frightened so many away by tales that very few +people cared to stop there. The Frenchman took the oath +demanded of him, and was set at liberty so soon as day came. +Years afterwards, he received a magnificent pistol, set with +brilliants and rubies, with the following inscription engraved +upon it: “From those whose secret you have so generously +kept.” The gift was accompanied by a letter, informing +him that the coiners, having now succeeded in amassing an +immense fortune, had retired from business.</p> + +<p>The day after our adventure at the inn was passed by our +party in walking leisurely through the forest homewards, +through a most glorious country and in most lovely weather. +When we reached Frankfurt, Herr Kirchhofer congratulated +Herr Wolf on our escape, and told him that it was very +lucky that we had returned at all.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p> + +<p>Herr Wolf saw me in after days at Frankfurt, when he +kissed me in German fashion, saying: “<i>Kannst Du Dich erinnern +von damals im Oden Walde, George?</i>” I thought it +was our last day upon earth, and that we were going to be +murdered there, like many others have been there before and +even since those days. But I pretended not to be alarmed +at the time, and made the best of it.</p> + +<p>The time—rather more than a year and a half—I spent +at this school at Frankfurt was one of the happiest periods +of my life; indeed, when my parents wanted me to stay at +the Hôtel de Russie, I cried and begged not to be taken away +from the school. Herr Kirchhofer was a very pleasant, +kind and good-hearted man, and a fine orator, one of the best +I have ever heard; and the lectures which he used to give +on ancient Greek history were always extremely interesting. +His lectures were always extempore, as his excellent memory +made it unnecessary for him to refer to a book, and the +way he declaimed was a pleasure to listen to, so well did he +raise or lower his voice to suit the occasion. At times he +became very dramatic, putting you in mind of some celebrated +actor on the stage, as he walked up and down +the room, reciting from the classics and quite carrying +away his audience. The only punishment inflicted on +boys at this school was to shake them and smack their +faces, which Herr Kirchhofer did himself, as well as the +other masters, of whom there were eight or nine, although +the school consisted only of ten boarders and fifty day-boarders.</p> + +<p>German and Austrian boys find more pleasure in taking +long walks in the woods, making excursions, and running +about than they do in games like football and cricket, for +which few, if any, have any taste. In fact, I never knew any +boys in Germany who cared much for any outdoor games at +all. However, I have not the slightest doubt they enjoy +their school-days quite as much as English boys, if not more; +and there is much more friendship between master and boys +in Germany than there ever can be in England. In the +former country, the master devotes more time to ascertaining<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span> +the tastes of individual boys, and addresses them more like a +friend than a master. When, afterwards, I was sent to an +English school, I noticed the difference almost at once. +At the school at Frankfurt I was most interested in the +history of ancient Greece; I was also fond of German history. +Latin was not taught there, for which I was by no means +sorry. I had no great fancy for botany, though I tried to +like it; but natural science rather piqued my curiosity. +As for arithmetic, I hated it, and never knew the value of +money; in fact, I don’t remember ever having any at that +time, nor ever asking for any, as I had everything I required +bought for me. I had a fancy for collecting stamps, and, +in those days, there was a regular stamp market at Frankfurt, +where they were sold in the street. I went there on +one occasion, but was not very favourably impressed by the +Jew dealers who hawked them about.</p> + +<p>I was passionately fond of tin soldiers, and used to play +with them with a boy named Louis Krebs, who had a fine +collection of both Austrian and Prussian ones. He had a +pretty little sister called Klara, who always wore pink coral +earrings and would often play with us.</p> + +<p>One day, Herr Kirchhofer told me that my parents were +going to England and that they had arranged to take me with +them. At first, I was quite unable to realize it, but when +I learned that the news was true I was greatly distressed, +and nearly cried my eyes out at having to leave Frankfurt +and the school. I tried to prevail upon my parents to leave +me behind, but my father would not hear of it, saying that +I should have to go to a preparatory school for Eton, and that +he had one in view, which my aunt, Lady Caroline Murray, +had recommended. So I was forced, <i>malgré moi</i>, to submit +to my parents’ wishes.</p> + +<p>In recent years I met Krebs, the boy of whom I have just +spoken, at Frankfurt, when he gave me a great deal of +information about those who had been at school with us. +He himself had become a millionaire; but he was the only +one who had made money. Most of the others had been far +from successful in life, and one of the wealthiest, Baron<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span> +Vogelsang, had lost almost the whole of his immense fortune. +Many had died quite young. Herr Kirchhofer had only +lived a few months after the suicide of his son August, +and Herr Wolf had also died while still quite a young +man.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</h2> + +<p class="center">Brussels—Ostend—General Sir John Douglas—Spa—“Captain +Arthy”—Boulogne</p> + +</div> + +<p>On leaving Frankfurt, we went to Brussels, where we +lived in a large house on the Boulevard de Waterloo, +which looked out on to a very fine avenue of trees. Captain +Dorrien came with us on a visit to my parents and stayed for +some months. Captain Dorrien, in after years, lost his whole +fortune, when the late Earl of Sheffield, who had been at +Eton with him, insisted on his going to live at his fine house +in Portland Place, where he was given full authority over +all the servants, lived free of all cost to himself, and received +a cheque for £500, while the Earl went for a six months’ +cruise in his yacht. This was told me by Captain Dorrien +himself, at a time when he was in far better circumstances.</p> + +<p>Lord Howard de Walden was then the English Minister +at Brussels, and my parents were on very friendly terms with +him and his family. Two of the sons came often to our house; +one was in the Royal Navy, and the other in the 60th Rifles. +The eldest son, who afterwards succeeded to the title, was +then in the 4th Hussars, but I never met him. Many years +afterwards, I met Lady Howard de Walden, then a widow, +in India, at Murree, in the Himalayas, where she dined at +our mess with her daughter, Miss Ellis. The two ladies were +about to start on a journey to Kashmir, on ponies, as Lady +Howard de Walden said that it was her intention to see as +much of the world as she could before she died. She was +then seventy. She added that it was a singular coincidence +that the two regiments in which her sons had served—the +4th Hussars and the 60th Rifles—both of which she visited,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span> +should be quartered quite near Kashmir, the Hussars at +Rawal Pindi, and the 2nd Battalion, 60th Rifles, at Murree. +Lady Howard de Walden accomplished the difficult journey +to Kashmir and returned in safety.</p> + +<p>We were on friendly terms with the Baron de Taintegnies, +who was in attendance on Leopold II., King of the Belgians, +and also with his three lovely daughters, who, with their +cousins, the daughters of Baron Danetan, were considered +the most beautiful girls in Brussels society at that time. +One of the former married, in later years, Captain Stewart +Muirhead, of the Blues, a friend of my father and of Captain +Dorrien.</p> + +<p>Frederick Milbanke, of the Blues, an old Etonian, who was +a great friend of my father, was at that time a good deal +in Brussels, and married a Belgian actress there. Milbanke +was heir to some of the Duke of Cleveland’s estates, but +he died before coming into this property. The last time I +saw him was at the Alexandra Hôtel, in London, where he +and his wife had a very fine suite of rooms, when my father +took me there to pay them a visit. Milbanke was a very +handsome, fair man, and his wife a great beauty. I met +the latter in after years at the Grosvenor Hôtel, where +she was staying with her son, a nice-looking boy, who had +come back from Eton for the holidays.</p> + +<p>The winter at Brussels was rather a severe one, and there +was plenty of good skating to be had. I remember learning +to skate in the Bois de la Cambre, to which I went with +my father. One day I was knocked down by some lady +skaters, and had great difficulty in extricating myself from +their petticoats. I fell very softly, but I was well-nigh +smothered. I was glad when my parents left Brussels, as +I had no companions there at all.</p> + +<p>There was then at Ostend a Mrs. Clifton, who had an +exceedingly pretty daughter. Mrs. Clifton was a widow, +and afterwards contracted a second marriage with a brother +of Sir Walter Carew. When I was at school at Kineton, +in Warwickshire, the mother and daughter paid me a visit, +as they had an estate not far from the school.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p> + +<p>One day, on the Digue at Ostend, I suddenly caught +sight of my little friend, Baron Vogelsang, who, leaving his +father and mother, who were with him, ran up to me at +once and kissed me on both cheeks. I saw a good deal of +Vogelsang while I was at Ostend, going often on to the +sands with him, and meeting him in the evening at the +children’s dance at the Casino.</p> + +<p>The Baron de Taintegnies’s daughter used to attend those +dances, to which the Duc de Sequeira, a young boy I knew, +generally went. Marie, the Baron’s eldest daughter, who +was a lovely girl, afterwards became the Baronne Le Clément +de Taintegnies. She lives at Minehead, where she has a +fine estate and hunts with the Devon and Somerset Staghounds. +I heard from her quite recently. Her sister +Isa, who married Captain Stewart Muirhead, is now a widow, +her husband having died in Paris in 1906. She also hunts +with the staghounds in Devonshire, and both sisters are +well-known horsewomen. Aline, the youngest sister, who +was called “Bébé,” and whom I admired very much when +a child at Brussels and Ostend, married, in 1871, Baron +de Hérissem, and, after his death, went to Italy, where she +married again and lived for several years. She died at +Ancona in March, 1906.</p> + +<p>There was a racing man at Ostend, named Captain Riddell, +who won all the principal steeplechases that were run there. +Mrs. Ind, the wife of the well-known brewer, was his sister. +Riddell met with a very serious accident in a steeplechase +at Ostend, injuring his spine. The horse which he was +riding on that occasion was once ridden by my father on +the sands, and he told me that he was a perfect devil to +hold. When a young man, my father once rode a hundred +miles in twelve hours on the same horse for a bet at Taunton, +in Somerset, and won his wager easily, with plenty of time +to spare. He and Charles Kinglake, a brother of the +author of “Eöthen,” were the only persons who were willing +to go up in a balloon at Taunton, when the first one came +there, which was considered rather venturesome at the time. +This reminds me that one of the oldest inhabitants of Bristol<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span> +told me lately that he remembered when the first iron ship +was launched at that port, and how all the residents declared: +“The idea of iron floating is too absurd to entertain for +one instant; the ship is bound to sink, for iron can never +be made to keep above water.”</p> + +<p>The King and Queen of Würtemberg were both then at +Ostend. Queen Olga, who was a Russian Grand Duchess by +birth, was said to be the handsomest woman in Europe. +She had very regular features, but was at that time excessively +pale and thin. Her niece, the Grand Duchess +Olga, was the first proposed <i>fiancée</i> of Ludwig II., King of +Bavaria. His Majesty, however, refused to marry her. This +is not generally known. The Grand Duchess Olga afterwards +married the late King George of Greece.</p> + +<p>King Leopold II. and Queen Henriette were at Ostend +at that time with their children, who used to drive on the +sands in a small carriage drawn by four cream-coloured +ponies. Baron de Taintegnies was usually on the Digue +of an afternoon with the King, sitting down or walking +about.</p> + +<p>Among my father’s friends at Ostend were Lord Orford +and Lord Brownlow Cecil. The latter was very fond of +music, and married a lady there who was a magnificent +pianist. One day I can remember my father sitting in the +Casino with Henry Labouchere, an old Etonian, who had +formerly been in the Diplomatic Service. Labouchere was +smoking a big cigar, and he and my father had a long conversation. +What it was about, I cannot say, though they +were continually laughing; and my father told me afterwards +that Labouchere was very amusing, and, though sarcastic, +witty, and that he rather liked him.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> + +<p>General Sir John Douglas, K.C.B., Commander of the Forces +in Scotland, and his wife, Lady Elizabeth Douglas, daughter +of Earl Cathcart, were a good deal with my parents at Ostend. +The General used to take long walks with my father, and +he put my name down for his old regiment, the 79th Highlanders, +and for the Scots Guards. Sir John Douglas was +extremely kind to me in after years, and invited me to stay +with him at Edinburgh; but I could not get leave from +my colonel at the time, and consequently was obliged, to +my great regret, to decline his kind invitation.</p> + +<p>My parents used very often to spend the summer months +at Ostend, and one year they occupied the apartments +at the Hôtel de Prusse which the Russian Ambassador, +Prince Orloff, had just vacated. One day, after washing +my hands in my bedroom, I emptied the water out of the +window, for some unaccountable reason. Later in the day, +the Princess de Caraman-Chimay sent up her lady’s maid +to say that a dress which the Princess had intended wearing +the following evening at a Court ball at Brussels had been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> +completely spoiled by the water. I was well scolded by my +mother for being the cause of this misfortune.</p> + +<p>The English clergyman at Ostend was a Mr. Jukes. He +had a very good-looking son, a boy about my own age. He +told me that he was in the habit of walking in his sleep, +and showed me his bedroom window, which had a padlock +on it. When I asked him where the key of it was, he said +that they would not tell him, in case he might get up in the +night, unlock it, and walk on the roof of the house, which, +he said, he had done before. His father once met me with +mine in the street, and when told that I was going into the +British Army, said that he entirely disapproved of soldiers, +and thought that the time was near at hand when there +would be no more wars and every dispute would be settled +by arbitration. I fancied at that time that Mr. Jukes’s +prophecy might come true, but, as subsequent events proved, +we were very far indeed from its realisation.</p> + +<p>Both the King and Queen of the Belgians were very +popular with the inhabitants of Ostend. They used to +walk on the Digue quite unattended, and seemed in no +way inconvenienced by the crowd, who always treated +them with the greatest respect. The King wore plain +clothes, usually a dark suit with a tall white hat, and never +appeared there in uniform. A very good story is told of +Leopold II., who, some years ago, during the summer months, +was at Luchon, in the Pyrenees. The day after he arrived +there, the King sent for a hairdresser, and directed him to +trim his silvery beard. When the operation was over, His +Majesty inquired what he had to pay.</p> + +<p>“It will be twenty francs, Your Majesty,” replied the +hairdresser without hesitation.</p> + +<p>The King pulled out a two-franc piece, which he handed +to this too facetious Figaro.</p> + +<p>“I am accustomed,” said he, “to pay very well. Here +is a two-franc piece. It is a new Belgian coin, and you +will see my head on it, as you wished to pay yourself for +it.” (“<i>Vous y verrez ma tête, puisque vous avez voulu vous +la payer.</i>”)</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span></p> + +<p>It is said that the hairdresser left without asking for +the rest of the money, and that, since this adventure, he +placed over his shop a fine board, inscribed: “Furnisher +of H.M. the King of the Belgians.”</p> + +<p>My mother spent a summer at Spa, where she took a +house with a garden attached to it. I liked the place very +much, and often went for rides on a pony in the woods +with the late Captain Lennox Berkeley, who afterwards +became Earl of Berkeley. The country round Spa is +mountainous and very charming. Spa itself is an exceedingly +pretty place, situated in a valley entirely surrounded +by hills and woods, and the Ardennes are not far off. But +in the summer months the heat is intense, and, when the sun +once gets into the valley, there is often not a breath of air. +The promenade, where the band plays morning and evening, +is charming, and it is very pleasant to sit beneath the shady +trees and listen to the excellent orchestra. I often used to +go there with my mother, particularly of a morning, when +all the <i>monde élégant</i> used to forgather to listen to the +music. The gambling-rooms were then open for roulette +and trente-et-quarante, and Captain Berkeley used often +to try his luck at them, but, unfortunately, he was not +successful. I can remember his giving me “Japhet in +Search of a Father,” by Captain Marryat, and recommending +me to read it. I did so, and it amused me very +much.</p> + +<p>Another of my father’s friends, the late Captain Bromley, +an old Etonian, and a son of Sir Thomas Bromley, was at +Spa at the same time. One day, when I happened to tell +him that I was going into the Army, he smiled, and said +that he never could hit off with his colonel. The latter +complained that he was always late for parade, and +asked him if he did not hear the bugles sound. He +answered:—</p> + +<p>“Yes, sir—I hear the bugles, but there must be something +wrong with them, for they don’t sound the right note.” +The Colonel soon found him incorrigible, and he himself +that he was never made for a soldier.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span></p> + +<p>Bromley told me that, when a boy, he was accustomed +to dine off gold plates and that everything he used at table +was of gold. Suddenly, his father died, and his elder brother +inherited the title and estates, while he was obliged to live +on a few hundreds a year. This, he said, was the fault of +our law of primogeniture, which ought only to take effect +in the case of ducal houses, where the bearer of the title +should be made to pay an “appanage” to the other members +of the family, as is the rule on the Continent.</p> + +<p>It has often been asserted by authors of great authority +that women are much meaner than men; but I have known +some instances to the contrary. Once, during our stay at +Spa, a gentleman called on my mother, and told her that +he had lost all he possessed, and asked her to lend him £50, +as he was anxious to rejoin his wife. My mother, who had +known him for years, said that she would give him all she +had in the house—nearly £40—for which he was very +grateful, both at the time and when we met him and his +wife in later years.</p> + +<p>Once I was staying with my father at Desseins Hôtel, +at Calais,<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> when he told me that he had made the acquaintance +of an Englishman, a certain Captain Arthy, who was +rather a singular character, indeed, highly eccentric. It +appeared that he had just lost his wife, and that he was +so distressed at her death that he wore all the trinkets +which had belonged to her on his watch-chain, to show his +affection for her. He had not, however, gone into mourning, +and always affected a red tie, saying that he wore the +mourning in his heart, upon which he used to lay his hand +as he spoke. I was introduced to Captain Arthy, who was +a bald-headed man, with black side-whiskers and rather a +red face, dressed in a light suit of clothes. The quantity +of charms on his watch-chain would have almost filled the +window of a jeweller’s shop, while numerous rings adorned<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> +his fingers. He was perpetually smiling, displaying a set +of very fine teeth when he did so.</p> + +<p>He invited my father and me to see his rooms, which were +full of gold and silver cups, which he told us, had belonged +to his late wife. The late Mrs. Winsloe, whose husband +was a friend of my father, was staying at this hôtel. Mr. +Winsloe was a well-known man in Somersetshire, but he had +recently gone out of his mind. His wife had been a great +beauty, but she was then terribly made up, with fair dyed +hair.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Winsloe, who lived in very luxurious fashion, and +occupied a very fine set of rooms at Desseins Hôtel, said +that Arthy was a cousin of her husband, and showed us a +cutting from the <i>Times</i> about the death of Mrs. Arthy, which +had occurred in rather a tragic manner. One evening, +when my father and I were in her salon, she said to Arthy:—</p> + +<p>“I wish you would give one of your lockets to that little +boy, as a keepsake from me.” Arthy thereupon took off +his watch-chain, and, after hunting amongst his innumerable +lockets, at length chose one, which he unfastened, saying:—</p> + +<p>“Here is a nice gold locket that will do. Will you give +him your photo to put inside it?”</p> + +<p>“I haven’t got one,” replied Mrs. Winsloe. “Give him +one of yours instead.” So he cut round one of his photos +and, inserting it in the locket, handed it to me. “Now +kiss Mrs. Winsloe,” said he, “for it is her present to you.” +I kissed the paint off her face, and she kissed me, and I felt +sure that she left a coloured impression on my face. But +I was so pleased with the locket, which I attached to my chain, +that I did not care in the least.</p> + +<p>Arthy drank champagne with Mrs. Winsloe, and the latter +seemed rather infatuated with him, which was not surprising, +as he was a fine-looking man, though his baldness detracted +from his good looks. However, the lady could not afford +to be very <i>difficile</i>, being only an artificial beauty, whose +youth was but a memory. Formerly, she had had beautiful +hair, and it still reached to her waist. My father +complimented her upon it, observing:—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p> + +<p>“I never saw such lovely hair in my life, or such a +perfect colour.”</p> + +<p>She looked pleased, and replied, smiling:—</p> + +<p>“Yes, I don’t think there are many women who have +such fine hair.”</p> + +<p>“No, I am sure there are not,” remarked Arthy, who +appeared to be thinking of the gold locket which he had +given away, for he looked at his chain as he spoke.</p> + +<p>“He doesn’t half admire you,” said my father, laughing.</p> + +<p>“I am sure I do; I think my cousin the loveliest woman +possible,” replied the other, who appeared annoyed at my +father’s remark.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Winsloe looked at Arthy and smiled, being evidently +under the impression that he was jealous, as he appeared +angry with my father.</p> + +<p>The fact was that Arthy was anxious to ingratiate himself +with Mrs. Winsloe, as she was very wealthy. Accordingly, +he pretended to admire her, though it needed only half a +glance to see that in reality he considered her very far from +beautiful. Mrs. Winsloe not only paid for her own rooms +at the hôtel, but all the expensive dinners which she and +Arthy had together were entered to her account. The latter +had a great partiality for naval officers, and as an American +warship, the <i>Alabama</i>, of the Confederate Navy, happened +to be lying at Calais at this time, he invited some of the +officers to dine with him and Mrs. Winsloe. They accepted, +and were most sumptuously entertained, champagne flowing +like water.</p> + +<p>After staying six weeks with his cousin, Arthy left for +England. Soon afterwards, the officers of a British warship +at Portsmouth received an invitation from the Duke of St. +Albans to dine with him at an hôtel. The captain of the +ship happened to be away, and, on his return, the other +officers told him what a good dinner he had missed and loudly +praised the ducal hospitality.</p> + +<p>“The Duke of St. Albans!” exclaimed the captain, in +astonishment. “How can you possibly have dined with him +that evening? Why, the very same day I was shooting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span> +quite near the duke’s property, and I happened to see him! +I will go to the hôtel and find out who it can be.”</p> + +<p>The captain lost no time in instituting inquiries, with the +result that the supposed duke was laid by the heels just as he +was preparing to leave Portsmouth, and turned out to be +none other than the man who had passed as Captain Arthy +at Calais. It was subsequently ascertained that he was a +certain Comte d’Aubigny, a member of a very old and +noble French family, and that he had deceived several +people in the same way. My father, on hearing of this, +remarked:—</p> + +<p>“It is the first time that I have been taken in by a +man, but I am glad I am not the only one he deceived.”</p> + +<p>The enterprising gentleman was afterwards brought to +trial and sentenced to seven years’ penal servitude.</p> + +<p>My parents sometimes spent the summer months at Boulogne, +one year taking a large house at some little distance +from the sea, overlooking a public garden. The late Captain +Elwes, a nephew of the Duchess of Wellington, who was +Vice-Consul at Boulogne, was a friend of my parents. He +was devoted to painting, and, many years later, painted a +miniature of an American lady for his cousin, the Marquis +of Anglesey. It was beautifully painted, but, unfortunately, +when it was finished, the Marquis had fallen in love with +another Transatlantic belle, so he did not appreciate the +miniature quite as much as he might have done, if his affections +had not been diverted from the original. Elwes hoped +to be appointed Consul at Boulogne, but whether he ever +obtained that post, I cannot say. The last time I met him +was in Paris, many years later, at a dinner given by the +Marquis of Anglesey, at the Hôtel d’Albe, in the Champs +Elysées.</p> + +<p>Lord Henry Paget, afterwards Marquis of Anglesey, was +very fond of Boulogne, and lived there with his first wife. +The latter died at Boulogne, quite suddenly, but the Marquis +continued to visit the place, and my father saw a good deal +of him.</p> + +<p>George Lawrence, the author of “Guy Livingstone,” son<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span> +of Lady Emily Lawrence, was frequently at Boulogne, and +often with my parents. I can remember my father relating +how one day he went with him to see one of the lovely +daughters of the Baron de Taintegnies off to Paris, and how +Lawrence was so infatuated with the young lady, that he +jumped into the train, without any luggage, merely to have +the pleasure of travelling with her all the way to Paris, a +journey of about five hours. On reaching Paris, he saw Mlle. +de Taintegnies safely to her destination, and then took the +train back to Boulogne.</p> + +<p>My parents were particularly fond of Lawrence, who was +good-humoured, clever, and very amusing. I heard that he +had a quarrel with Tom Hohler, who married the Duchess of +Newcastle, on account of having introduced him into one of +his novels, called “Breaking a Butterfly.” Hohler was very +friendly with my father in later years in Paris. We had a +white Pomeranian dog, and Tom Hohler asked my father to +show it to the Duke of Newcastle, who was then a child, +living with his mother in the Avenue d’Antin. The dog +took such a fancy to the young Duke that it forsook us for +him entirely. I heard recently from the Duke of Newcastle, +who was kind enough to be interested in this book, that +he remembered this Pomeranian dog quite well, and told me +its name—“Loulou”—which I had entirely forgotten. +The name recalled many things to my recollection. It is +strange how at times we forget a name, and then, when it is +mentioned, associations and incidents connected with it +are suddenly recalled to our memory and flash before us as in +a dream.</p> + +<p>Tom Hohler sang for a time at Her Majesty’s Theatre. +I never heard him sing in operas, but I have been told that he +had a very pleasing voice, though it was not a very powerful +one. It was said that when he sang in private houses, he +was paid £40 for every song.</p> + +<p>Harry Slade, a son of Sir Frederick Slade, stayed for a time +at Boulogne with his mother, of whom we saw a good deal; +and, after Lady Slade’s death, her son stayed for a long +time at the Hôtel du Nord, where my father and I<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span> +often went to see him. He was a good talker and always +very entertaining.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Joe Riggs, an American lady, who afterwards became +Princess Ruspoli, was extremely fond of Boulogne, and +generally spent the summer at the Hôtel Impérial; but this +was in later years.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<p class="hanging">A Painting by Romney—Hunter’s School at Kineton—Corporal Punishment—A +Sporting Parson—My Schoolfellows at Kineton—The Warre-Malets—Lord +Charleville.</p> + +</div> + +<p>Before going to school in England, I was taken to +Richmond to see my mother’s aunt, Lady Caroline +Murray, who was now an old lady and lived in a house near +the Thames, for, as the Duchess of Gloucester, to whom she +had been lady-in-waiting, had been dead some years, she +was no longer at Court. In her younger days, Lady Caroline +had been a good horsewoman and had ridden very well to +hounds. But, at this time, she was leading a very quiet +life, receiving only her relatives and friends.</p> + +<p>I can remember that in Lady Caroline’s drawing-room at +Richmond there was a most beautiful picture of her mother, +Viscountess Stormont, British Ambassadress to France and +Austria, painted by Romney. It represented the Countess +in her own right, as she afterwards became, sitting beneath a +large tree and wearing a kind of loose <i>peignoir</i> of a pale yellow +colour, like the colour of the sea just before a storm. The +<i>peignoir</i> was fastened at the shoulder by a brooch, in which +was a large yellow stone. Her hair was dressed high above +the head, in the style of Marie Antoinette, in whose days her +husband was Ambassador in France, and over it she had a +Scottish plaid of the clan to which she belonged. One leg +was crossed over the other, and her arms were folded. She +was painted in profile; her <i>peignoir</i>, open at the front, displaying +a perfect bosom and a beautiful, swan-like neck. +Her hair possessed that glorious auburn tint with shades of +gold in it, which made it appear as though the sun were +shedding its full rays upon the gold tresses, one of which had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> +escaped from the rest and hung loose. Her face was of a +tender oval, with expressive eyes of a peculiar shade of +green, like that of the sea when the sun falls upon it, or as it +is in Böcklin’s pictures. Her nose was straight and delicate, +with nostrils like those of a Greek statue. Her mouth was +unusually small, with a tiny upper lip, slightly curved; her +chin short and classical. The expression on the face was of +pride, of audacity, of childish innocence, of sentimentality, +and it possessed a marvellous charm and attraction.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus07" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus07.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author’s Mother.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 40.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>This beautiful portrait, which Lady Caroline bequeathed to +Earl Cathcart, as he was the head of her mother’s family, +was once seen by a wealthy American, who said to the Earl, +into whose possession it had then come:—</p> + +<p>“Have you ever seen such a lovely woman as this in all +your life?”</p> + +<p>“No, I have not,” the Earl answered.</p> + +<p>“Well, I guess you haven’t,” rejoined the other, “and I +don’t think there ever was such a lovely woman on earth.”</p> + +<p>And he offered Lord Cathcart £20,000 down for the +picture, which the latter, though not a rich man, refused. +The American then promised the Earl’s son, Viscount +Greenock, £500, if he could persuade his father to accept the +offer; but it was all of no avail.</p> + +<p>I showed Mr. Noseda, the well-known print-seller in the +Strand, the engraving of this picture by J. R. Smith, which +had belonged to my grandfather, when Mr. Noseda told me +that he very much preferred the engraving to the painting, +as the latter had been so much touched up, whereas the former +was so beautifully executed in every detail that he considered +it finer than Romney’s portrait. This was after I had told +him about the offer of £20,000 which the American had made +for the original painting.</p> + +<p>Viscountess Stormont had been Ranger of Richmond Park, +and was allotted, as her official residence, the house which is +now the Queen’s Hôtel. An old gentleman whom I met at +Richmond in later years told me that he thought the hôtel +ought to have been named after the Countess of Mansfield, +as Lady Stormont became later, instead of being called the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> +“Queen’s.” He remembered Lady Caroline Murray, and +remarked that she was one of those ladies of the old nobility +who were scarce nowadays.</p> + +<p>Viscount Greenock afterwards became Earl Cathcart, and +died in London in 1911. He was at Eton with me, and +afterwards joined the 23rd Welsh Fusiliers, from which he +was transferred to the Scots Guards. When at Eton, he +often came to my tutor’s house to see his cousin, Charles +Douglas, whose father had placed him there to be with me. +The Hon. Reginald Cathcart, a younger brother of Lord +Cathcart, was in the 60th Rifles, and I recollect giving him a +letter to his colonel, Godfrey Astell, in India,<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> when he first +joined the regiment. Reginald Cathcart, who was a very +nice young man, tall, dark, and handsome, was one of those +unhappily killed in the Boer War.</p> + +<p>The school to which I was sent was at Kineton, near Warwick. +It had been recommended to my father by Lady +Caroline Murray, who had heard of it from the Duke of +Buccleuch, and a cousin of mine, Greville Finch-Hatton, was +being educated there. When my father and I arrived, we +were shown into a sitting-room, looking out on to a garden, +where we were received by Mrs. Hunter, the headmaster’s +wife. Mrs. Hunter was an old lady, whose age, I afterwards +ascertained, was about seventy. To guess it would have been a +difficult task, so terribly made up was she. Everything about +her was false: false teeth, false hair, and a false bust, giving +her somewhat the appearance of a wax figure at Madame +Tussaud’s. She had, however, very pretty white hands, +with pointed fingers. She was dressed in black satin, with a +large gold brooch at her throat, and a long gold chain round +her neck, a costume which she always wore.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> + +<p>“This, I presume, is your little son, whom you are leaving +with us?” said Mrs. Hunter to my father. “Will you tell +me whether you belong to the High or Low Church, as it is +my province to look after the boys’ religious instruction, and +I am always interested to know.”</p> + +<p>The question was rather a poser for my father, who, I do +not think, had entered a church since he left England. So +he turned to me and said:—</p> + +<p>“Tell the lady to what church you go with your mother.”</p> + +<p>I said that at Ostend I always went to the English Protestant +Church. Upon which Mrs. Hunter observed:—</p> + +<p>“I see, you have been living on the Continent, and foreigners +have very little religion. However, I will take care that your +son has the proper religious instruction.”</p> + +<p>Suddenly, the door opened, and an immensely stout man, +of about sixty-five, with mutton-chop whiskers and spectacles, +entered the room, and introduced himself as Mr. Hunter, +the headmaster.</p> + +<p>In his youth Mr. Hunter had probably been an exceedingly +handsome man, and was still, apart from his corpulence, +decidedly good-looking, with a fine forehead, a small mouth +with thin lips and very good teeth, and regular features.</p> + +<p>After showing us over the school, Mr. Hunter sent for +Greville Finch-Hatton, telling my father that I should +occupy a dormitory with my cousin and two other boys. +At eight o’clock, supper was served in a large dining-room, +where the presence of a new boy provoked a good deal of +talking amongst the other boys. Mrs. Hunter sat at one end +of the table, her husband at the other; and the meal was +a cold one, carved on the table, and consisting of cold meat, +followed by bread and cheese, washed down by draught beer.</p> + +<p>As soon as supper was over, we were sent to our dormitories, +where I had not been long in bed when my cousin leant over +from his and asked if I were asleep. On finding that I was +awake, he told me that we must talk in a very low voice, +as talking was forbidden, and Mrs. Hunter occasionally paid +us a visit to see whether this regulation was being observed. +The two other boys in the room also began talking in low<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span> +tones. Later on, when they considered themselves pretty +safe from detection, they talked louder and carried on a +long conversation about cricket, discussing who were the +best bowlers in the school and whether fast bowling was +more effective than slow.</p> + +<p>I could not sleep, and, for some unaccountable reason, +felt very miserable. At last I began to cry, at first quietly, +but soon I was unable to restrain my sobs. My cousin, +hearing me, tried to console me, saying that he, too, had +found it hard to leave his parents at first. I felt inclined +to tell him that it was not that which made me cry, but I +thought better of it. Soon afterwards I fell asleep, and +dreamed that I was at Kirchhofer’s school at Frankfurt, +and that Vogelsang was talking to me. I even fancied that +he kissed me, when I awoke suddenly, in despair at finding +where I was.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hunter was a very pleasant man, when he cared to +be, which was by no means always the case. He was most +severe with everyone, and had no particular favourites. +Some boys he disliked, particularly those who did not learn +quickly, and those who were inclined to be noisy. He was +full of fun when he played football with us; making jokes +and chaffing different boys in turn. He was, however, +quite a different kind of man in school from what he was +in the playground.</p> + +<p>On Sundays, we, of course, attended church. The clergyman +who preached, a Mr. Miller, had two voices: a very +squeaky voice and a very gruff one. When he preached +in his squeaky voice, most of us would fall asleep in the +high pews, which screened us from the observation of the +headmaster; but when Mr. Miller altered his tone, and his +deep, gruff voice was suddenly heard, coming, as it were, +out of a vault, we would be disagreeably startled from our +slumbers. The sermons, I am inclined to believe, were +bought ones, for Mr. Miller used sometimes to lose his place +in the midst of his discourse and come to a stop, and when +he continued, it was on quite a different subject. But +it mattered little, so far as we were concerned, for most<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> +of the boys were usually asleep, and those who tried to +listen could not follow the squeaky voice of the preacher—which +had all the disagreeable sounds of a clarionet played +badly—even by straining their ears, which few of them +were disposed to do.</p> + +<p>Our French master, who was obliged to accompany us, +used sometimes to unfold the Paris <i>Figaro</i> at full length +and read it during the sermon. Mr. Hunter, owing to the +height of the pews, could not, of course, see him, or he would +most certainly have taken very strong exception to such +an irregular proceeding. One Sunday, when Monsieur +happened to have forgotten his <i>Figaro</i>, he passed the +time of the sermon in an animated conversation with Rush, +the captain of the Eleven. Unfortunately for the latter, +Mr. Hunter happened to detect them; and, after church, +he sent for Rush, and, refusing to listen to his appeals, took +him to the schoolroom and, making him bend down, gave +him a severe caning.</p> + +<p>When I first came to the school, I was chaffed about +my pronunciation, and Rush said:—</p> + +<p>“If you pronounce Themistocles like you do, I wouldn’t +be in your shoes.” Then he used to ask me questions about +my German school, which at first he laughed at. Soon, +however, he took a great interest in it, making me tell him +about the boys there, what they were like and what they did.</p> + +<p>“It must be very much jollier than here,” said he, “and +none of that beastly caning and flogging, as there is at +Kineton.”</p> + +<p>Mr. Hunter was certainly a devout believer in the precept: +“Spare the rod, and spoil the child;” indeed, he seemed +to have a perfect passion for caning the boys, and at times +performed this operation with astonishing zest. Sometimes, +of an evening, in my dormitory, we would play at +being Mr. Hunter, each of us taking it in turns to personate +the master and beat the other boys with a hairbrush, in place +of a cane. One night, one of us happened to remark:—</p> + +<p>“I think it is a pleasure that would grow upon one, as it +evidently does upon old Hunter.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span></p> + +<p>Scarcely had he said this, when, to our consternation, +the door suddenly opened, and the master appeared. The +boys bolted into bed as fast as they could, but it was too +late, and we were told to come to Mr. Hunter’s study after +prayers the following morning. There, after we had been +duly admonished, we were all severely caned.</p> + +<p>Rush and other boys used to put hairs in the canes to +split them; but Mr. Hunter found this out, for one day, he +broke six canes one after another. He then rang for his +whalebone whip, and we received a fearful thrashing, with +no time to prepare for it by padding our clothes with books.</p> + +<p>One day, the Duchess of Marlborough, who was a friend +of Lady Caroline Murray, called, and asked to see my cousin +and myself. She was accompanied by her son, Lord Randolph +Churchill, and her visit to the school was due to the +fact that she thought of placing him there. But Lord +Randolph became too ill to go to school just then, and had +a private tutor at home instead, until he was old enough to +be sent to Eton.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> + +<p>We often went for picnics to the charming woods of +Compton Verney, belonging to Lady Willoughby de Broke. +That lady, who was always very pleasant and full of fun, +would sometimes come and talk to us and to Mr. Hunter. +The latter had formerly been private tutor to her eldest +son, and the school was on Lord Willoughby de Broke’s property.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> +The late Hon. Rainald Verney, Lord Willoughby’s +younger brother, was at school at Hunter’s, before going to +Eton, and often came to the school when I was there, before +he joined the 52nd Light Infantry.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span></p> + +<p>Mr. Hunter had a young and rather pretty niece, a girl +of eighteen, with black hair, who stayed for a time with him. +She used to go into the boys’ dormitories at night, when +she would give them bonbons and generally kiss them. +But her stay at Kineton was so short that her presence there +was more like an angel’s visit than anything else.</p> + +<p>One day, the Rev. William and Mrs. Finch-Hatton called +to see their son and also asked to see me. Mrs. Finch-Hatton, +who was at that time known as the “Rose of Kent,” was a +lovely woman, with very black hair and regular features. +She was a sister of Sir Percy Oxenden. She told me that +both she and her husband were struck by my great resemblance +to their son Greville; and Mr. Finch-Hatton very +kindly gave me half a sovereign, which I never forgot, as +I rarely received any money from anyone. Mr. Newenham, +who had married a daughter of the Earl of Mount +Cashell, and was a clergyman in Ireland, also came to see +his son. He played football with us, and afterwards told +us the following story:—</p> + +<p>“I was once asked to see an old woman in Cork who +was dying. She asked me to read the Bible to her, but as +I was unprepared to find her so ill, I had not brought one +with me, nor had she one in the house. So I pulled out a +copy of <i>Bell’s Life</i> which I happened to have in my +pocket, and read her an article from it, which, as she happened +to be deaf, had precisely the same effect upon her +as the Bible would have had.”</p> + +<p>Mr. Newenham was a regular sporting parson, with, however, +a good deal more of the sportsman than the parson +about him, but full of fun and very agreeable.</p> + +<p>There was a boy named Charles Taylor at the school, +who afterwards went to Eton. His father, who had himself +been at Eton, was a famous cricketer and had played +in the All-England Eleven. He was, however, somewhat +eccentric, having the most intense dislike of being asked +his age; in fact, when one put this question to him, he +invariably answered that he neither knew it nor wished to +know it. He had also a strong objection to anything of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> +a violet colour, and if a person called to see him wearing a +tie or a dress of that colour, he always picked a quarrel with +his unfortunate visitor.</p> + +<p>Another boy at Kineton, whom I shall call L——, had +the misfortune to be afflicted with kleptomania, and would +take everything he could lay his hands on. Mr. Hunter +used to break so many canes upon his back that he said +to him one day:—</p> + +<p>“I shall send the bill for all the canes I have broken in +trying to correct you to your mother, for you get worse +and worse every day.”</p> + +<p>The school colours were scarlet and white, but they were +only worn by the cricket Eleven. As I was in the Eleven, +I had this coveted privilege. My cousin did not much care +for cricket, and was fonder of riding and shooting, at both +of which he excelled. Mr. Hunter kept a pony for the boys +to ride. When he drove to Warwick, Leamington or Banbury, +he would take two of us with him, one boy riding the pony, +while the other sat in the pony-trap with the master. I can +remember once riding to Warwick and then to Stratford-on-Avon +on the pony, which Finch-Hatton rode back to Kineton. +Most of the boys could ride well, and those who could not +were never taken by Mr. Hunter, save on one occasion, when +I recollect that the boy he took with him reminded me of +certain Frenchmen whom one sees riding in the Bois de +Boulogne, who are afraid to let their horses go beyond a walk. +As my father used to say in Paris:—</p> + +<p>“They praise the Lord on their knees every time they +come home safely and are out of the saddle.”</p> + +<p>Greville Finch-Hatton was rather delicate, and, after +making a voyage to Australia, died quite young.</p> + +<p>Aubrey Birch Reynardson, who also slept in my dormitory, +had a gift for story-telling. One night he related to us the +story of “Eric, or Little by Little,” with which, I can remember, +we were delighted.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hunter always wore spectacles. At times, by gaslight, +when the gas fell upon them, it looked as if his eyes +were two flames, and that he was an ogre ready to devour<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span> +one of us, particularly when he took up his cane, and glared +at the culprit, through his spectacles, with fiery eyes. But, +taken on the whole, Mr. Hunter was a very good fellow, +who would never have done anyone an injury, apart from +perhaps giving him a dose of the cane.</p> + +<p>Among the boys who were at Hunter’s with me was Charles +Home-Purves, who was the head of the school. He afterwards +went to Eton and took Lower School instead of +Fourth Form, at which Mr. Hunter was much disappointed. +His father, Colonel Home-Purves, was in attendance on the +Duchess of Cambridge, and was accidentally killed by the +overturning of a carriage in which he was driving with Her +Royal Highness. He was so terribly cut about the face +by the glass of the carriage-window that he died almost +immediately. His son was offered a commission in the +Guards, but preferred entering the Rifle Brigade. However, +he left the regiment shortly afterwards, and died when +very young.</p> + +<p>The late Earl of Lonsdale, before he succeeded his uncle +in the title, was also at Kineton with me. On one occasion, +he ordered a lot of toys from Cremer’s toy-shop, but when +they arrived, Mr. Hunter was so startled at the bill, which +amounted to a considerable sum, that he had them at once +sent back to where they came from, telling Lowther, as he +was then, that he must make a better use of his money. He +found life at Hunter’s too restricted and not lively enough +for him, so he only remained one half, and then asked to +leave the school. I met him at Eton with his brother, the +present Earl of Lonsdale. The latter was attached to the +Rifle Brigade, and was a very keen sportsman, I remember, +when we were both stationed at Winchester.</p> + +<p>One day, at Kineton, I was playing with Newenham, who +happened to have a pocket-knife open in his hand, and, by +accident, I got a very ugly stab in the back. Indeed, the +doctor declared that, if the wound had been one-eighth of an +inch deeper, it would have been fatal. Newenham was once +mistaken for me by an uncle of mine at the Great Western +Hotel, Paddington, which amused both of them very much,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> +particularly as I was then at the same school as Newenham. +He retired from the Army with the rank of Major, and lives +in County Kerry, for which he is a magistrate.</p> + +<p>Once, on the anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth,<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Mr. +Hunter took us to Stratford-on-Avon, to show us the house +where the poet was born and to visit the theatre. Mr. +Hunter was a good amateur actor, and would sometimes +get up plays for us to act. On one occasion, we played +“A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” Lady Willoughby de Broke, +Lord and Lady North, Sir Charles Mordaunt, and all the +neighbouring county families were invited to the performance, +which went off fairly well. “Making up” afforded us great +amusement. One of the boys had learned this art from his +sister, and proved himself quite an adept at darkening the +others’ eyebrows and rouging their cheeks and lips.</p> + +<p>I happened to meet recently the Rev. Henry Knightley, +brother of Sir Charles Knightley. He had been at Kineton +with me, but it was forty years since we had met. From +him I learned that Mr. Hunter had died at Leamington +after giving up his school, and that Rush had died quite early +in life, as well as several others who were there with us. It +was quite a pleasure for me, and, I think, also for him, +to recall our school-days, and even the canings I looked back +upon with some regret, feeling that I would willingly submit +to them again, could I but return to those times. We both +agreed that we had not learned much at Kineton, but that, +on the whole, our life there with our schoolfellows had been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> +a pleasant one. I found that Knightley was under the +impression that Greville Finch-Hatton had inherited the +title of Winchilsea, but I told him that my cousin was dead, +and that the present Earl of Winchilsea and Nottingham +had been at Eton with me, and was kind enough to interest +himself in my book about our school life.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus08" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus08.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>C. D. Williamson, at Eton with the Author.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 50.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus09" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus09.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Miss Mabel Warre-Malet.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 51.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The chief prize I got at this school was a copy of Longfellow’s +poems, beautifully bound and illustrated. I was +very pleased at receiving it, as Longfellow was at that time +my favourite lyrical poet in the English language.</p> + +<p>Most of the boys remained at Kineton until they were +fourteen, when they left for Harrow, Eton, Winchester, or +some other public school. Greville Finch-Hatton went to +Wellington, Rush to Cheltenham, and Knightley to Marlborough.</p> + +<p>During my holidays, I sometimes went to Taunton, to +stay with an aunt of mine, whose husband, a very kind man, +was extremely fond of me. His daughter’s chief friends +were some children of the name of Warre-Malet, nieces of +the Ambassador, Sir Alexander Warre-Malet. The eldest +girl, Mabel, who was about thirteen, the same age as myself, +was very pretty, with brown hair, a lovely complexion and +eyes of a deep blue. One Christmas Eve, Mrs. Warre-Malet +had a large Christmas tree, with numerous presents attached +to its branches, and we were invited to her house. Every +one of the children received a beautiful present from the +tree, which was illuminated by a great number of candles. +Afterwards we played at forfeits, and I was told to kiss Mabel +Warre-Malet as a forfeit, an act which I felt very shy about +performing. “<i>Si jeunesse savait, si vieillesse pouvait.</i>” +Another friend of ours was a girl whose name was Amy; +who was also about thirteen. She, too, was a very attractive +little lady, with long brown hair, hazel eyes with black lashes, +an oval face, and a small mouth with pearly white teeth. +She had a cousin, the Earl of Charleville, some years older +than herself, who was staying at that time with her people. +One day she came with him to see my cousins, and said to +me:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> + +<p>“Charleville can tell you all about Eton, if you want +to know anything, as he went to school there.”</p> + +<p>Lord Charleville had to go away before his companion, +who remained to tea. Afterwards, one of my cousins and I +accompanied her part of the way home, and, while we were +crossing some fields, she suddenly exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“Good gracious! my petticoat is coming down!”</p> + +<p>And she burst out laughing.</p> + +<p>My cousin Florence, a girl of thirteen, told me to walk on, +while she pinned up Amy’s petticoat. But this proved a +more difficult task than she had bargained for, as a string +fastening had been broken, and it ended in Amy being +obliged to take her petticoat off and carry it as a parcel. +The two girls laughed consumedly at this mishap and its +victim said to me:—</p> + +<p>“Don’t you tell anyone that you saw me take my petticoat +off, or I will never forgive you.”</p> + +<p>I assured her that on no consideration would I breathe +so much as a syllable, and, on leaving us, she said:—</p> + +<p>“As you are going away, you may give me a kiss, if you +like.”</p> + +<p>Which I did right gladly, as you may suppose.</p> + +<p>A few days later, I met Charleville at an evening party +in Taunton, at which he paid marked attention to the daughter +of the house, a very pretty girl. I recollect meeting at this +party two of the daughters of the vicar of Taunton, Elsie +and Audrey Clark, the elder of whom was thirteen, while her +sister was three years younger, and was much struck by +their beauty, which was quite out of the common. One of +them had the most lovely hair, of the same exquisite colour +as that which one sees in Titian’s paintings; the other’s hair +was also very beautiful, but of a more auburn shade; and +both sisters had the most charming complexion. I danced +repeatedly with one of them; <i>mais mon cœur balançait entre +les deux</i>, so far as their attractions were concerned. The +girl with the Titian hair afterwards married the fourteenth +Lord Petre, while her sister married his uncle.</p> + +<p>Lord Charleville was a tall, good-looking youth, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span> +wavy brown hair and regular features, but he was very +delicate, being consumptive. After serving for a year in the +Rifle Brigade, his health obliged him to resign his commission. +He then went for a voyage in his yacht, but derived +little benefit from it, and died before reaching his majority.</p> + +<p>The late Mrs. O. Warre-Malet told me that, when she was +quite a young girl, she and her sister went to Ascot races +on foot and disguised as boys for a joke, and that they +got a good deal of money from people who were driving to the +course. Her sister married the Hon. Humble Dudley-Ward, +and after her husband’s death, the late Duke of Richmond +made her an offer of marriage. This she refused, but accepted +Mr. Gerard Leigh, who was an immensely wealthy man. +After his death she became the wife of Monsieur de Falbe, +and died some years ago.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</h2> + +<p class="center">My Mother’s Recollections—The Cercle des Patineurs—Patti—Our +<i>Appartement</i> in the Rue d’Albe</p> + +</div> + +<p>My parents were at this time living in Paris, in a +small hôtel in the Avenue d’Antin, which was +so shut in by the houses that surrounded it, that the rooms +were very dark, and, as it was winter, this made the house +seem more gloomy than it would have done at another +season of the year.</p> + +<p>I was quite enchanted with Paris; everything about it +delighted me, so different was it from any city I had ever +seen. The only thing that displeased me was the hôtel +in which we lived. Not only was it gloomy, but nothing +could be seen from the windows, except a kind of courtyard, +resembling a <i>patio</i> in Spain. This courtyard was filled +with flowers, very prettily arranged; nevertheless, it was +depressing to be unable to see anything else when you looked +out of the window.</p> + +<p>I remember being taken to a box at the Théâtre +des Italiens to hear Adelina Patti, in <i>La Gazza ladra</i>, by +Rossini. It was the first time that I had heard her sing, +and I was, of course, delighted with her voice; but my +mother was disappointed, and I recall what she said at the +time:—</p> + +<p>“After having heard Grisi, Malibran, and even Jenny +Lind, I do not think Patti is to be compared with them, +neither so far as her voice is concerned, nor as an actress. +She reminds me at times of Jenny Lind, yet I prefer the +latter infinitely.”</p> + +<p>My mother always had her own box at Her Majesty’s in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> +the days when Grisi, Lablache, Malibran, and the dancers +Taglioni, Fanny Elssler and Cerrito were enchanting the +audience. One evening, during the visit of the Tsar +Nicholas I. of Russia to England, my mother was invited +by the Duke of Sussex and Mlle. d’Este to a box at the +Opera facing that which the Tsar and Queen Victoria +occupied. The Duke of Sussex paid £500 for this box.</p> + +<p>My mother told me that the two finest sights she ever +beheld in her life were the Coronation of Queen Victoria, +when the peeresses all put on their coronets, sparkling with +diamonds, emeralds and rubies, at the moment Her Majesty +was crowned in Westminster Abbey; and at the Queen’s +accession, when hundreds of schoolchildren, dressed in white +and light blue, knelt down and recited the Lord’s Prayer +by St. Paul’s, after which the Benediction was pronounced +by the Archbishop of Canterbury.</p> + +<p>My mother often met Disraeli in London society; and +she told me that, in his youth, he always wore several +diamond rings over his white kid gloves, and that she thought +him a most affected and conceited young man. The two +Greek countesses described in “Lothair” were the Countesses +Zancarol. One married Colonel Lemesurier, of the Royal +Horse Artillery; the other Major Geary, R.A. The latter +married couple often dined with us in Paris, where Mrs. +Geary was considered a great beauty. Major Geary and his +brother, Sir Henry Le Quay Geary, K.C.B., were lifelong +friends of my parents.</p> + +<p>My maternal grandfather, Lieut.-General the Hon. George +Murray, to whom George III. and his Queen were godfather +and godmother, commanded the 2nd Life Guards. +For ten years he refused to accept his pay, on account of +a quarrel which he had with the Duke of York. So far as +I can recollect, the cause of the quarrel was as follows:—</p> + +<p>During the Peninsular War, an outward-bound troopship, +having some troops on board commanded by my grandfather, +and a great quantity of heavy luggage belonging +to the Duke of York, encountered very bad weather, and +was in danger of foundering. In order to lighten the vessel,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> +the captain wanted to throw all the horses overboard. But +this my grandfather would not allow, and proposed that the +Duke’s luggage should be sacrificed instead, which was +accordingly done, to the intense indignation of His Royal +Highness, when he heard of it afterwards.</p> + +<p>The statue to the Duke of York, erected in London, was +reported to have been built so high in order to place him +beyond the reach of his creditors, whose name was legion.</p> + +<p>My grandfather used to say that he never could understand +how the Duchess of Sutherland, with her £365,000 +a year, could bring herself to stand the whole evening at +the Opera behind the Prince Consort, who was only an +insignificant German prince, with a tiny principality. His +opinion of George IV. was that it would puzzle anyone who +knew him to discover a good quality that he possessed.</p> + +<p>It was about this time, when my parents were living in +the Avenue d’Antin, that I first saw Hortense Schneider +in <i>les Voyages de Gulliver</i>, at the Châtelet Théâtre, which +all Paris rushed to see. The play was a charming one, +and the children were particularly delighted when the Liliputians, +represented by tiny little wooden figures, moved +about the stage. Hortense Schneider, of course, represented +Gulliver, and sang some very pretty songs in the course of +the play.</p> + +<p>The late Arthur Post, a young American living with his +family in Paris, fell desperately in love at this time with +Hortense Schneider, though she was very much older than +himself. He drove about the Bois with her, accompanied +her to theatres, and, in fact, was always with her. His +infatuation greatly distressed his parents, and was the +subject of universal comment. However, he did not marry +her, though that was not his fault, as Hortense Schneider +had several royal and other princes ready to lay their fortunes +at her feet; and it was not until several years afterwards +that she chose a very wealthy banker for her husband.</p> + +<p>Fioretti was then the <i>première danseuse</i> at the Grand +Opéra. Her dancing always gave me greater pleasure +than anything else there. She was, besides, very beautiful,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span> +and King Ludwig II. of Bavaria was so captivated by her +graceful dancing and personal attraction, that he induced +her to leave Paris for Munich, to dance there instead.</p> + +<p>I went also to the Palais-Royal, and saw <i>le Train de +Minuit</i>, a play in which a railway-carriage is by accident +left behind in the middle of the night at a station, and the +people awake and find themselves at some miserable little +village, instead of in Paris, as they had expected. They, +of course, cannot obtain what they require in the way of +refreshments, and are nearly perishing with cold, as it is +the depth of winter, and the carriage is no longer heated; +and the complications that ensue are very amusing.</p> + +<p>One day, I went with my parents to Saint-Germain, to +visit Captain and Mrs. Lennox Berkeley, who were living +there. Their son, Hastings, a good-looking boy, told us +that his father was learning to play the zither, which Captain +Berkeley showed us, though he could not be persuaded to +let us hear him play it. Saint-Germain, with its charming +woods and pretty walks, is delightful in summer, the country +all around being lovely. When we returned to Paris, I did +not give my father any peace until he had bought a zither +for me. It was not easy to obtain one, and I remember +that we wandered about half Paris, until at length we discovered +what we wanted in the Rue de Rivoli. I had also +great difficulty in finding a master, until finally I discovered +a German who played the instrument very well.</p> + +<p>In the winter months, I went several times with my +father to the Cercle des Patineurs. This was a very exclusive +and very expensive resort, where, to secure +admittance for yourself and family, you had to be a member +of the Jockey Club, while each person had to pay twenty +francs in the afternoon and forty francs in the morning and +evening. There were some Americans who skated marvellously, +amongst them being Mrs. Ronalds, who was a +very fine skater. I was told that Napoleon III. and the +Empress Eugénie admired her graceful skating so much +that they complimented her on several occasions at the +Cercle des Patineurs, and she became a frequent guest at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span> +the Tuileries. The Princess Metternich, the Austrian +Ambassadress, was also an <i>habituée</i>; in fact, the place was +patronized by all the <i>beau monde</i> of those days.</p> + +<p>I frequently went at that time to Musards’ concerts, +which on fine summer evenings were given out of doors, in a +garden, and always enjoyed them immensely. Sometimes +I went with my mother to meet friends there; but when +I went alone, I usually sat with the Piétris, near relatives of +the Préfet de Police, who was so much attached to the +Emperor and Empress. Their daughter, Julie, was a lovely +girl of thirteen, and when I had learned to play the zither +better, we often performed duets together, as she was a +most accomplished pianist. I can remember we often +played Schubert’s <i>Ständchen</i>, which sounded very well, as +it is rather melancholy. Sad airs, in my opinion, are best +suited to the zither, particularly when it is accompanied +by the piano. When the German who was teaching me the +zither left Paris, I took lessons from a Mlle. Reichemberg, +who, at that time, was also teaching Adelina Patti, and +learned a Polish romance which the latter was very fond +of playing. Patti became extremely fond of the zither, +which she played a good deal in her leisure hours, though +she never sang to it, I was told.</p> + +<p>Hofrath Hanslick, the late celebrated critic of the Austrian +<i>Neue Freie Presse</i>, said of Patti:—</p> + +<p>“She appears to me to be most perfect in rôles like +Zerlina, in <i>Don Juan</i>, Norina, in <i>Don Pasquale</i>, Rosina, +in the <i>Barbiere di Seviglia</i>. What a fresh, youthful voice, +which in its range from the tenor C to F in alt, moves about +with such wonderful ease! The most perfect and delightful, +though, were the lively rôles of Patti, principally the one of +Zerlina, in <i>Don Juan</i>. She gave us the true ideal of Zerlina. +With these advantages, and especially, too, in the development +of dazzling virtuosity, Patti shines as Rosina in Rossini’s +<i>Barbiere</i>, and as Norina in Donizetti’s graceful opera, <i>Don +Pasquale</i>. In the <i>Barbiere</i> one can judge best, perhaps, of +her marvellous art in singing. Of her later rôles, in Leonora, +in Verdi’s <i>Trovatore</i>, she attained almost the highest pitch.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> +The <i>Traviata</i>, which is decidedly a far better opera, shows +Patti to more advantage dramatically. I always disliked +<i>Dinorah</i>, almost as much as I did formerly the <i>Traviata</i>, +which I saw the first time badly performed. Two rôles of +Patti which I cannot praise as much as the two before-mentioned +are Valentine, in the <i>Huguenots</i>, and Gretchen, +in the <i>Faust</i> of Gounod. In the valse of Venzano, she +sings a roulade of seventeen bars in one breath, smiling, as +if it were child’s play. There is no doubt that the Valentine +of Pauline Lucca and the Marguerite of Christine Nilsson +surpass the performance of Patti in these rôles. A clever +writer once called Italy the conservatoire of God. In this +conservatoire Adelina Patti has without doubt taken away +the first prize.”</p> + +<p>One Sunday evening, I went with Captain Berkeley to see +some fine illuminations in the Champs-Elysées. I recollect +telling him how much I disliked a crowd, to which he +replied:—</p> + +<p>“It is the only day on which the poor people can enjoy +themselves, and they have as much right to do so as the +rich. I am always so delighted to see the poor creatures +happy.” One day, a beggar came up to him and asked +for some coppers, upon which he said to him:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Mon cher ami, c’est défendu de mendier, mais voici un +franc; ne le faites plus.</i>”</p> + +<p>I called one day with my father at an hôtel in the Champs-Elysées. +As the lady we had come to see happened to be +out, we were asked to wait in a salon, where an English lady +sat, reading. My father made some casual remark about +its being fine weather to be out of doors, to which the lady +answered that she had only just arrived in Paris and intended +to have a rest. My father then said that he supposed she +would go out the next day.</p> + +<p>“No,” was the answer. “I told you, I have come here +for a rest.”</p> + +<p>He asked how long she intended resting, when she replied:</p> + +<p>“Six months.”</p> + +<p>My father was so astonished at this reply that he was quite<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> +unable to refrain from laughing, which rather annoyed the +lady. On our leaving the hôtel soon afterwards, he said to +me:</p> + +<p>“That old woman is mad with her rest, and to come to +Paris, of all places, to have it. She must be out of her +mind.”</p> + +<p>I frequently went to the galleries of the Louvre and the +Luxembourg, and always had a great liking for Greuze’s +paintings, particularly the <i>Cruche Cassée</i> and <i>l’Accordée +du Village</i>. The former I have often seen in engravings +by Masard and other engravers, but no reproduction has +ever come up to the beautiful face of the original. There +is always <i>quelque chose à désirer</i> in the copies, and even +in the photographs from the picture itself; it is something +in the expression, and not alone in the colouring.</p> + +<p>At the time of which I am speaking, there was a Spaniard +in Paris, a friend of some acquaintances of ours, who built a +large hôtel and a theatre for himself attached to it. The +former was heated to a certain temperature, and his doctor +called upon him every day, receiving a napoleon for each +visit, and on certain fête days a hundred francs. The +doctor used merely to feel his patient’s pulse, when he was +not ill. This Spaniard had two lady friends, a brunette and +a blonde, each of whom was in the habit of spending certain +fixed days in the week with him. Notwithstanding the very +regular life he led, he did not attain the age of forty, but died +of fever almost suddenly. He was an immensely wealthy +man, but of a very nervous temperament. During the winter +he never went out of doors, from fear of taking cold.</p> + +<p>Lord Lyons, who was then British Ambassador in Paris, +was celebrated for two things particularly, apart from his +diplomatic capabilities: his horses and the excellent dinners +he gave. An old Englishman, of over seventy, with whom we +were well acquainted, used to look forward to dining at the +British Embassy for weeks in advance. But his wife said +she positively dreaded his going there, as he was invariably +laid up for a fortnight after partaking of one of these too-appetizing +banquets.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p> + +<p>In the following summer, my parents left the Avenue +d’Antin and lived for a time in the Avenue Joséphine, until +an <i>appartement</i> which my mother had taken unfurnished in +the Rue d’Albe, in the Champs-Elysées, had been got ready +for us. I recollect she ordered the furniture from the celebrated +Maison Krieger, in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine. +The salon was furnished in Louis Quinze style, with some +tiny chairs with gilt backs and the seats in satin with designs +of various birds of gorgeous plumage in different colours, +all worked in silk by hand. The sides of the fauteuils were of +gilt, while the backs and the seats were all in Aubusson +tapestry, representing roses on a white foundation. The +sofa was in Aubusson to match the fauteuils, the curtains as +well. The carpet, which covered the middle of the room +only, as the floor was a parquet, was a lovely design with a +white foundation, the edges of which and the centre represented +clusters of red and pink roses. The carpet was in +Aubusson tapestry, and rather a small one, though my +mother had paid 7,500 francs for it. Dr. Bishop, brother-in-law +of the late Lord Iddesleigh, declared that the carpet was +so lovely that he was really afraid to walk on it. He was a +very tall, stout man, and he always sat on the delicate chairs +in preference to the others. This made my mother feel +very uneasy, less because she feared that the chair might get +broken than because she was afraid that he might have a +severe fall. The tables in the salon were Louis Quinze style, +in marqueterie, all inlaid with tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl +in Boule style, and on the chimney-piece stood a clock +and various figures and lamps in old Sèvres porcelain. The +walls were white, with gold decorations, and were adorned +with numerous mirrors. I asked my mother to have my bedroom +furnished in yellow and black satin, which she had done. +I was extremely fond of the Austrian national colours, and, +besides, they were the same as those of a room which I had +occupied some little time before when on a visit to Mrs. +Reynolds, formerly Miss Lethbridge, at Poundsford Park, +near Taunton.</p> + +<p>As I was about to go to Eton, my mother was anxious that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span> +I should have the correct Eton collar. No one in Paris +knew what it was like, so Lady Caroline Murray sent her the +pattern of a collar worn by one of the twin brothers Lambton, +who were both then at Eton. The elder is now Earl of +Durham. The Eton jacket was also a bit of a puzzle, and, +though I had it made as near the correct thing as possible, +I found, when I got to Eton, that, to be quite in the mode, I +must get my jackets made by Manley, of Windsor. This I +did all the time I was at Eton, as well as other clothes I wore +there.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus10" style="max-width: 62.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus10.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author.</p> + <p>Aged 9. Aged 14. Aged 16.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 62.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<p class="hanging">I go to Eton—New Boy Baiting—My House Master—Mr. James’s “Jokes”—My +Room at Eton—Some Eton Masters—A Disorderly Form—Lacaita’s +Silk Hat—“Billy” Portman</p> + +</div> + +<p>There was a certain <i>cachet</i> attached to an Etonian in +those days which I have not found with boys of any +other school, assuredly not in England. I may almost say +not in Europe, except, perhaps, with those of the Theresianum, +in Vienna. I might almost repeat what the well-known +German Socialist, Ferdinand Lassalle, wrote to a +Russian lady, in comparing the German women of the +middle class with those of the aristocracy, which latter +class might stand for Etonians of those days in comparison +with boys of other schools: “The women have not that +aroma of amiability, that <i>cachet</i> of good manners, which is +indispensable for every woman who has lived in aristocratic +circles. There are certainly exceptions, but they are very +rare.”</p> + +<p>In the autumn of 1866 my father took me to Windsor, +where we put up at the White Hart Hotel. Then we walked +to Eton and entered the first master’s house we came to, that +of the Rev. C. C. James. It stood near the wall of a cemetery, +which some of the rooms overlooked. My father informed the +master that he had come to place me at the school, but really +did not know one house from another, and that, if Mr. James +would care to take me into his house, he would be very glad +to leave me in his charge. Mr. James replied that it was unusual +for him to take a boy of whom he knew nothing, without +having his name entered beforehand, or without some +recommendation. But whether it was that my father contrived +to talk him over, or that he thought he would run the +risk of my turning out a bad bargain, after Mr. James had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span> +asked my age and where I had been to school, it was decided +that I should stay at his house. My father, I think, was the +most pleased, for, from what Mr. James had said, he had +been anticipating some difficulty in finding a house for me at +all, as at certain masters’ houses a boy’s name had to be +entered years beforehand. But my father generally trusted +to chance in everything, and what seemed impossible to most +people was for him often an easy matter.</p> + +<p>Mr. James showed us over the boys’ rooms, and, though I +should have much preferred having one looking out on Windsor, +with a fine view of the Castle, I had to be content with +the end room in the front of the house, which had a view of +the college chapel, and was quite close to the cemetery. My +father told him that he did not think I was afraid of ghosts, +when Mr. James told him that the cemetery was of very +ancient date, and no longer used for burial purposes. He +then showed us the beds, which were closed up in the daytime, +in such a way as to present the appearance of cupboards, +and said that he would get me a bureau similar to +that which every boy had there.</p> + +<p>My father soon took his departure and went back to the +“White Hart,” upon which I was handed over to the housekeeper, +who invited me to sit in her room, and gave me some +tea. I remained there until the evening, when some of the +boys began to arrive. As might be expected, I was far from +being at ease, and felt like someone entering on a new existence, +in a completely different world from the one in which +he had lived. The housekeeper inquired whether I did not +know some of the boys at James’s, and told me their names. +To which I replied that I did not know even one of them, +though I knew some boys at other houses. At what houses +they were, however, I could not say. She said that the boys +I mentioned were higher in the school than I was likely to be +placed, and that they would not condescend to speak to so +humble a person as myself, and that I must make acquaintances +of my own age, which I would soon do.</p> + +<p>I had not long to wait before some of the boys arrived, and +presently came into the housekeeper’s room. But I do not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span> +recollect one of them speaking to me then, and shortly afterwards +I set out for Windsor, as my father had got permission +for me to dine with him at the “White Hart,” before he left +for London, on his way back to Paris.</p> + +<p>When I returned to James’s alone, I went into the housekeeper’s +room, in which I found several boys, who regarded me +with a curiosity which I found decidedly embarrassing. +The first who spoke to me was a very nice-looking boy of +sixteen, named Gaskell, who was in the Remove. He asked +me my name, and whether I thought I should pass into the +Fourth Form. I replied that I did not feel at all sure of doing +so. At that moment another new boy, named Temple, +with fair hair and a very plain face, entered the room, to whom +Gaskell put the same questions as he had to me. Temple +did not appear over-burdened by modesty, and had no doubt +whatever about passing into the Fourth Form.</p> + +<p>“Of course I shall,” he declared confidently, putting his +hands in his trousers pockets and looking very important.</p> + +<p>Suddenly some other boys came in.</p> + +<p>“Here are some new fellows,” said Gaskell.</p> + +<p>“What are they like?” asked the others. “Let’s have a +look at them.”</p> + +<p>“This chap here—Temple his name is—seems devilish +confident about himself; expects to get into the Fourth +Form at once.”</p> + +<p>“I say,” exclaimed a fair, good-looking boy, who was +bigger than Gaskell and taller, and whose name was John H. +Locke, “so you expect to pass easily? Where do you come +from?”</p> + +<p>“From London,” replied Temple, colouring slightly.</p> + +<p>“From what school?”</p> + +<p>“I was educated at home by a tutor.”</p> + +<p>“Indeed! Well, you give yourself airs of importance that +won’t do here, I can tell you. We’ll soon knock them out of +you.”</p> + +<p>Temple put his hands in his trousers pockets and shrugged +his shoulders, while his not very prepossessing countenance +assumed an expression that was almost diabolical.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p> + +<p>“You look like the devil,” said Locke, laughing.</p> + +<p>“So he does,” exclaimed some of the others; and one boy +added:—</p> + +<p>“I say, Satan, what an ugly mug you have!”</p> + +<p>Temple darted a glance of withering scorn at the speaker, +but could not trust himself to reply.</p> + +<p>“That’s a good name for him,” remarked Locke. “Mug, +I say, Mug, mind you pass your exam. well, and don’t look so +fiendish when one speaks to you, for it won’t pay.”</p> + +<p>Saying which he took his departure, leaving Temple to +digest the advice he had given.</p> + +<p>The exam. came off in due course, when Temple failed to +qualify for the Fourth Form, and was put into the Lower +School; while I passed into the Lower Fourth, which was +more than I expected to do. All the boys at James’s were +pleased, for they had taken a great dislike to Temple. The +latter, however, was not in the least disheartened at not +taking the Fourth Form, but put his hands in his pockets, +shrugged his shoulders, and looked at the other boys as +contemptuously as before. He was at once given to Alexander, +the Captain of the Oppidans, as a fag, while I was +allotted to Locke. Alexander never spoke to Lower boys, +except to fag them, so Temple had merely to do what he was +told. I had a very easy time of it with Locke, who had +other fags besides. Sometimes Locke would ask me to sit +down in his room and talk to him, when he would often give +me fruit and bonbons. He was about eighteen, in the Sixth +Form, and rowed in the <i>Monarch</i>; but C. R. Alexander was +Captain of the House and Head of the School, or what is +termed Captain of the Oppidans, to distinguish him from +the Captain of the Collegers, nicknamed Tugs, who are boys +on the foundation and obliged always to wear a gown.</p> + +<p>A boy named James Doyne, who became a great friend +of mine, messed with me, that is to say, we took our breakfast +and tea together in his room, as it was larger than mine. +I often did his French lessons for him out of school, and +helped him with others, as he was in the Lower School. +Sometimes, he bought beefsteaks for breakfast, and I would<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> +cook them downstairs while he was in school, as he was often +kept behind by his master. So occasionally, when I happened +to be very hungry, I would not only eat my own steak, but +a part of his as well, which used to make him very angry.</p> + +<p>Doyne told me once that his father knew a gentleman who, +on being introduced to another, said:—</p> + +<p>“You are the son of a tailor, I believe, are you not?”</p> + +<p>“Yes,” was the reply, “and I will take your measure.”</p> + +<p>The tailor’s son never rested until he had ruined the other.</p> + +<p>It seems a great pity that duelling is not allowed in England, +as it would oblige some men in this country to mend their +manners, even if the duel were restricted to the use of the +<i>épée</i> alone, and were to cease at the first sign of blood. Anyway, +it would be better than the senseless actions for libel, +which cost a great deal of money, and are quite unknown in +other civilized countries.</p> + +<p>I had very little to do with my tutor, Mr. James, being up +to another master in school. He was a Mr. Luxmoore, a +young, rather good-looking and very pleasant man. My +tutor only took the Fifth Form pupils of his own division, but +at times he would see how the boys in his house were progressing +in their studies. Mr. James was a rather tall and +thin man, about thirty-seven, with a long, fair, almost reddish +beard and no moustache. His eyes were blue, and he had a +habit of looking away from people while he talked, and when +he became nervous he used to stammer, but not very perceptibly. +Although he could not be called handsome, +he was by no means bad-looking, having a very pleasant +expression and beautiful teeth.</p> + +<p>We had to be in school at 7 a.m. in the summer, and +7.30 a.m. in the winter, and the lesson lasted an hour. Then +we went back to our rooms for breakfast, or, rather, had to +go to our fagmaster and cook his breakfast first. But +Locke hardly ever required this service of me, as he generally +made another of his fags do it for him. At 9.15 we all +had to attend Chapel, which lasted half an hour. Then +school again till 10.30, and from 11.15 till 12. The two +hours after this were called, “after twelve,” which one<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span> +usually spent in one’s tutor’s pupil-room. Dinner was at +2 p.m., then school again from 2.45 till 3.30, and then from +5 to 6. After this the boys were free till the time for “lock-up,” +which changes with the time of year. In the summer +it was at 8.45. A half-holiday was just the same until +dinner, but in the afternoon “absence” was called at 3 +p.m. in the winter and at 6 p.m. in the summer. “Absence” +is a call-over of the names, which takes place in the school +yard. Its object was to prevent boys from going too far +away, and ensuring that they should be back in time for +“lock-up.” When a master did not come for “absence,” +it was termed a “call”; and the boys only waited five or +six minutes for him.</p> + +<p>In addition to the work done in school and pupil-room, +we had work to do in our own rooms, especially on a Sunday, +when we had Sunday Questions to write out. The half-holidays +were on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, +and on Sundays, besides attending Chapel, we had the +Sunday Questions to answer. This usually occupied us +several hours.</p> + +<p>There was a boy at James’s who was then in the Remove, +called Craven, a tall, dark, good-looking fellow, who dressed +well and had an umbrella with a death’s-head handle carved +in ivory, which he never opened, even when it poured with +rain, from fear that he would not be able to fold it again +so neatly as it was then done up. He always wore the +most expensive silk hats he could buy, and habitually scented +himself with patchouli. One rainy day, when all James’s +Lower boys were in his pupil-room, in the house, Mr. James +called up Craven, and said to him:—</p> + +<p>“Craven, why don’t you sign your name in full: Fulwar +John Colquilt Craven?”</p> + +<p>“I do, sir,” answered Craven.</p> + +<p>“But you don’t—merely Fulwar Craven. Don’t you +own the John Colquilt?”</p> + +<p>All the boys began to titter, and Craven laughed and +said:—</p> + +<p>“I suppose I don’t, sir.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span></p> + +<p>“Why do you stupid boys giggle?” exclaimed Mr. James. +“There is nothing to laugh at because Craven won’t own +his name, John Colquilt, which is a very nice one.”</p> + +<p>The boys went on laughing all the more, at which the +master was furious, and cried:</p> + +<p>“I will make you all write out a book of the <i>Iliad</i> if +you don’t stop giggling at once.”</p> + +<p>This threat had the desired effect, and gravity was +restored; but it did not last very long. A good-looking +boy named Ady, who was at Miss Evans’s Dame’s house, +but was a pupil of my tutor, and who wore a lot of gold +charms on his watch-chain, came up to Mr. James to ask +some questions, when the latter said:—</p> + +<p>“Ady, I wonder you don’t wear bracelets with all those +jingling things; you are more like a girl.”</p> + +<p>Thereupon all the boys began to titter again, while Ady +blushed, but did not make any reply. On returning to his +seat, however, he put out his tongue at Mr. James, who +happened to be looking in another direction, and then +smiled, when the boys began to laugh with a vengeance.</p> + +<p>“Stop that laughter,” screamed the exasperated master, +his eyes sparkling with wrath, “or I’ll have all of you swished +in turn. I won’t stand this nonsense any longer. First +of all with Craven, who is scented like a fast lady, and then +with Ady, who is covered with jewellery like another; I +might just as well keep a girls’ school.”</p> + +<p>The giggling now became downright laughter, which the +boys were quite unable to restrain. At last, Mr. James +began to see that he had made a joke, which flattered his +vanity, so he smiled, and said:—</p> + +<p>“Yes, even the boys are laughing at you both.”</p> + +<p>This was too much for his audience, who roared with +laughter, until, after a while, the master said:—</p> + +<p>“Now, I think, we have laughed enough; I hope it will +be a lesson to them both.”</p> + +<p>Craven and Ady nearly split their sides with laughing, +as well as the others.</p> + +<p>“I see I can do nothing with you to-day,” remarked<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span> +Mr. James, “these laughing moods are very distressing; +it upsets the whole of the lessons. I must be more serious +with you, and not permit myself even a joke. I see it plainly +more and more every time.”</p> + +<p>At last the merriment subsided, but presently some of +the boys began laughing again.</p> + +<p>“What is the joke now?” exclaimed the master. “Tell +me, for I should like to know. I can see nothing whatever +to laugh at now.”</p> + +<p>“Please, sir,” answered Craven, “you make a joke, and +you won’t even allow us to laugh at it.”</p> + +<p>“Oh, well! if it is that that you are laughing at, I suppose +it is all right,” said Mr. James, who was gradually regaining +his good-humour, and presently the boys were dismissed. +Afterwards there was great fun made at his expense, Craven +and Ady being highly amused.</p> + +<p>Mr. James was nicknamed “Stiggins” by the boys who +had been with him at Eton, and, although unpopular out of +his house, he was not so in it. There were much more +disagreeable tutors at Eton at the time of which I am speaking, +some of them perfect horrors. Mr. James was a good-hearted +man, and was very kind at times, though he was +very brusque in his manner, and in the habit of speaking +his mind without the least reservation. He had no particular +favourites, but, on the other hand, he did not take +any violent dislikes, and was just enough, apart from occasional +sallies against certain boys. These he indulged in +under the impression that he was being witty, and not infrequently +the jokes he made were at his own expense. +He had a good memory and could recite innumerable +verses from Greek and Latin poets, but he was a poor orator. +He was a good chess-player, and often played with the +boys, giving them a queen and sometimes a rook as well, +and generally beating them. Sometimes he played with +another master, Mr. Wayte, a middle-aged man, with a grey +beard, who could play twenty-five games of chess at the +same time blindfolded, and win most of them. Mr. James +once beat Mr. Wayte, after which he would never play<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> +with him again, wishing to be able to say that the last time +he played with him he had succeeded in gaining the victory. +I often played chess with my tutor, on which occasions he +usually gave me a queen. Sometimes I managed to beat +him, and once when I had been successful, he said to me:—</p> + +<p>“You have beaten me, and I have beaten Wayte, who is +one of the finest players in Europe. So, in winning the +game to-day, you have something to be proud of.”</p> + +<p>We always tried to make our rooms at James’s as comfortable +as possible. I had a fancy at that time for pictures +of horses, and bought a set of steeplechase ones, by Alken, +printed in colours and published by Ackermann. I had +also a picture of Hermit, the Derby winner of 1865, by +Harry Hall, which was also printed in colours. In the +summer, like the other boys, I had geraniums and other +flowers in a large green wooden box, which was made to +cover the length of my window-sill. I spent, however, +more of my time in Doyne’s room, which was nearer the +road, and farther away from the cemetery. It was a more +cheerful room, containing several arm-chairs. Besides, we +always messed together and took our meals there, and so +I looked on the room almost as being my own. Alexander +and Locke had two rooms each. The latter had quite a +collection of silver cups, which he had won at Eton, and +his sitting-room was decorated with numerous trophies +of the Boats, arranged against the wall, from the light blue +of the <i>Victory</i> and the dark blue of the <i>Monarch</i> to the +cerise of the <i>Prince of Wales</i> and the blue of the <i>Britannia</i>. +I can only remember entering Alexander’s room once. It +was also adorned with the colours of the Eleven and silver +cups won at cricket and racquets, as he was Captain of +the Eleven and President of “Pop.” “Pop” is the name +given to the Eton Society, to which only boys in the Sixth +Form and the Upper Fifth can belong.</p> + +<p>The occasion on which I entered Alexander’s room was +on a Sunday. He opened his door, and called: “Lower +boy!” and, as I happened to be on the landing, he said +that he must send me to make a copy of his Sunday Questions,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span> +which were always written up outside St. George’s +Chapel at Windsor. It was a dreary walk, for, as it was +Sunday afternoon, all the shops were, of course, closed. +I made a copy of the Questions in pencil, and, on my return, +left them in Alexander’s room. At eleven o’clock that +night, he came and woke me up, to ask if I could read some +word I had copied, which I had to confess I could not. He +went away, but returned to my room an hour later, and, +waking me up again, said he thought he could make a guess +at the word we had been unable to make out, and asked +me if it were not correct. I then suddenly remembered +that it was the right word, when he laughed and went out. +This was the only time I was ever sent to copy out Sunday +Questions, as Alexander always, as a rule, sent his own +fags to do this, and Locke, whose fag I was, hardly ever +gave me anything to do. I was, in consequence, very +sorry when he left Eton, which he did very shortly afterwards +for Trinity College, Cambridge. Alexander went up +to King’s.</p> + +<p>One half I was up to a master called Austin Leigh, who +was in the habit of speaking so softly that we could scarcely +hear a word he said in school. So when he spoke, I always +had to guess what he said. One day he asked me to construe +a passage, which I did, when he corrected me, saying:—</p> + +<p>“I told you what to say.”</p> + +<p>“Please, sir, I could not hear exactly.”</p> + +<p>“Are you deaf?”</p> + +<p>“No, sir, but I did not hear exactly.”</p> + +<p>“Then, for not listening, you will please write out the +lesson as a punishment. Do you hear now?”</p> + +<p>“Yes, sir.”</p> + +<p>I hated being up to Austin Leigh, for I never could hear, +as he always spoke in a whisper somewhat like the hissing +of a serpent.</p> + +<p>There was another master, who thought himself rather +good-looking, as he had regular features; but he had yellowish +hair, was inclined to baldness, and his figure was lanky +and awkward. This master was fond of making very tame<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span> +jokes in school. If we laughed at them, it was all right, +but the boys who ignored his jokes he punished. He insisted +on calling Lord Edward Somerset by the name +of Samson, but once when he called upon “Samson” to +stand up, no one rose. He then turned to Lord Edward +Somerset, and said:—</p> + +<p>“Why did you not stand up when I told you to do so?”</p> + +<p>“Because you never told me, sir.”</p> + +<p>“I did; your name is Samson, isn’t it?”</p> + +<p>“No, sir; it’s Somerset.”</p> + +<p>“Well, anyhow, you knew that I meant you.”</p> + +<p>Somerset made no reply, and the master said:—</p> + +<p>“For disobedience you will write me out this chapter of +‘Xenophon!’”</p> + +<p>“Very well, sir.”</p> + +<p>Among the numerous masters at Eton with whom I had +little or nothing to do, those whom I remember best are: +Mr. Stephen Hawtrey, who was a very agreeable man; +Mr. Hale, a mathematical master, nicknamed, on account of +his whitish hair, “the Badger,” who was also very pleasant; +the Rev. W. Dalton, another mathematical master, who had +very full lips and a reddish face, and went by the <i>sobriquet</i> +of “Piggy”; the Rev. Joynes, who had somewhat the +appearance of a weasel, and had great difficulty in keeping +his division in order; Mr. Cornish, a fair-haired man, who +was rather disagreeable at times; and Mr. Cockshot, also a +mathematical master, who was bright and pleasant. The +Rev. Durnford, nicknamed “Judy,” I only knew by sight, +and the same was the case with Mr. Arthur James, my +tutor’s brother, who was an exceptionally pleasant man.</p> + +<p>All the masters had some peculiarity, and it took some time +to get used to their ways, as they were all so different from +one another. Just, however, as a boy was beginning to +understand a master the half came to an end, and, after the +holidays, he would probably be sent up to quite a different +kind of man. For each master took a separate division, +and was promoted like the boys from one division to another.</p> + +<p>The most popular master was the Rev. Edmund Warre,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span> +afterwards Head Master and Provost of Eton. He was a +good-looking, fair man, who wore spectacles, and, besides +being one of the cleverest of the masters, was a very fine oar, +and always superintended the coaching of the Eight. He +used to try to interest the boys up to him in school in a subject, +as Herr Kirchhofer did at Frankfurt. I remember +once, during a lesson in geography, he said that Austria-Hungary +was a nation which would one day break up, since +it consisted of too many nationalities, the link between which +was not sufficiently strong to be permanent. Upon another +occasion, he recommended us to read “The Last of the +Barons,” by Lord Lytton, which he said was one of the best +historical novels ever written, and I remember that some of +us followed his advice.</p> + +<p>There was a good deal of jealousy amongst certain +masters, who did not pull together. Mr. Oscar Browning +was unpopular with some of his colleagues, though he +was very much liked by the boys at his house and those +up to him in school. There can be little doubt that the +dislike entertained by certain masters for Mr. Browning +was due to jealousy, as he was cleverer than the majority of +them, and he was certainly very witty, and at times rather +sarcastic. I was up to him in school one half, and I think, +on the whole, he was the pleasantest master I was ever up to, +since he used to enliven the tedium of school hours by his +witty remarks, occasionally making fun of some of us, but +in such a nice, pleasant way, that we all enjoyed the joke, +even those who were the cause of the merriment. It was +almost impossible to be late for school with Mr. Browning, +as he generally arrived late on the scene himself. Now and +again, however, he reversed the usual order of things, and +then those who had counted on his late arrival were caught +and punished.</p> + +<p>Mr. R. A. H. Mitchell, the famous cricketer, was a master +of the Lower School. My friend Jim Doyne was up to him, +and said that he was very popular with the boys.</p> + +<p>There was another master, Mr. St. John Thackeray, who +had no authority whatever over the boys up to him in school,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span> +who invariably made fun of him, and jeered at him all the +time. I was up to him one half, when I found it quite +impossible to learn anything, owing to the constant disturbance, +which was quite overpowering. I used to come in late +continually when up to Mr. Thackeray, as I knew it did not +much matter. One day, however, he said to me:—</p> + +<p>“You are half an hour late this morning!”</p> + +<p>“Please, sir, I overslept myself.”</p> + +<p>“But you always oversleep yourself.”</p> + +<p>“Please, sir, I couldn’t help it; I was so tired.”</p> + +<p>“What made you so tired...?”</p> + +<p>Here the other boys began to laugh, and someone said +aloud:—</p> + +<p>“He’s always so slack.”</p> + +<p>“Which boy spoke?” asked Mr. Thackeray angrily. A +dead silence ensued.</p> + +<p>“I <i>will</i> know which boy spoke just now. If the boy +doesn’t come forward at once, I shall punish all the division.” +Upon this two or three boys said:—</p> + +<p>“It was I, sir.”</p> + +<p>“Which of you was it?” asked Mr. Thackeray.</p> + +<p>“I, sir,” sounded from different parts of the room.</p> + +<p>“It’s really too bad; the whole division shall be punished +then,” said the master.</p> + +<p>While he was occupied in making a note of this, a book was +hurled across the room, at which there was great laughter. +Mr. Thackeray was furious.</p> + +<p>“I shall have to report the whole division for bad conduct +if I don’t know at once who threw that book,” he cried.</p> + +<p>“It was I,” said one boy.</p> + +<p>Then, a moment afterwards, another voice said:—</p> + +<p>“It was I, sir.”</p> + +<p>“But it could not have been both of you. Which of you +was it?”</p> + +<p>“Me, sir,” said the first boy who had spoken.</p> + +<p>“Then you will please write out the chapter we are +reading”—then, correcting himself—“or, rather, which we +ought to be reading.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span></p> + +<p>For a few minutes the lesson proceeded quietly, though +on the least pretext there would be shouts of laughter. Mr. +Thackeray entirely forgot to punish the other boy and myself; +only the one who had hurled the book was punished. Every +day with Mr. Thackeray was similar to this one, sometimes +more amusing, sometimes less so, but always very noisy +indeed. He spoilt the boys for other masters, as, being +accustomed to do as they liked with him, they would come +late into school when they were up to others, who would +send them up to be swished on a repetition of the offence. +I was never swished at Eton during all the four years I was +there.</p> + +<p>The late Earl Grosvenor, who, when Viscount Belgrave, +was at Eton with me, was a very good-looking boy, with fair +hair, but he wore jackets that were sometimes too short for +him, and it was the same with his trousers, as he had grown +out of them. One day, when he sat in school on a form in +front of me, during a lesson by Mr. Henry Tarver, the French +master, a boy sitting next me, seeing Belgrave’s shirt, which +was plainly visible between his jacket and trousers, pulled +it right out altogether. Belgrave turned round angrily, +thinking at first that it was I who had taken this liberty with +his shirt, when he saw that the culprit was a boy whom he +knew well. Nevertheless, he was very confused and had +great trouble in adjusting his protruding garment, as it was +necessary to do it in such a way as not to attract the attention +of Mr. Tarver, who would certainly have inquired +into the matter and meted out condign punishment to the +offender.</p> + +<p>There is a French saying that small events often interest +great minds. I hope that this may be so, in which event +there will be some excuse for my mentioning this incident, +which struck me at the time as being rather ludicrous, though +I cannot say whether others may be of the same opinion. +Lord Grosvenor, after he left Eton, was fond of driving an +engine, and I am told that he often drove the train between +London and Holyhead for pleasure.</p> + +<p>His name reminds me of a good story that I once heard at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span> +Eton about his grandfather, the Duke of Westminster. +The latter, one day, was told by his groom of the chamber +that the dress-coat that he wore was getting very shabby. +The Duke asked to see it, and then told the man that he +might order a new one for himself. “But,” added the +thrifty nobleman, “you may let me have this old coat; +it will do quite well for me to wear.” The Duke of Atholl, +who was a first cousin of my grandfather, had also rather a +contempt for dress, and my mother was told by the latter +that, when an old man, he was often mistaken in the street +for a beggar, and had pence offered him.</p> + +<p>There was a boy named Lacaita at Eton, who, when he +first came, wore a most extraordinary hat. The lower part +was much broader than the upper, so that the hat was not +unlike a loaf of sugar. I think he must have imported it +from Italy. However, if I remember rightly, it was very +speedily battered out of any shape at all, for it was an innovation +which pleased none of the boys, who were only too +ready to make a football of it, as they generally did of anything +they happened to take a dislike to, and particularly +a silk hat.</p> + +<p>Doyne used frequently to invite boys from other houses +to tea with us in his room. They were mostly those whom +he knew “at home,” that is to say, away from Eton, and who +were friends of his people. The Hon. John FitzWilliam, +who was in the same division as myself, often came, as he was +a relative of his, as well as Lord Trafalgar, who was in the +Lower School, and Lord Mandeville, who afterwards became +Duke of Manchester. The last-named was a very good-looking +boy, with very dark, curly hair; he was full of fun, +and I liked him very much, though I only met him when he +came to tea with us, as he was lower down in the school and +at a different tutor’s house from myself.</p> + +<p>A boy named Charles Rice Hodgson, in the same division +as I was, was my greatest friend at first. He was at Vidal’s, +a Dame’s house. He was a very handsome boy, with rather +fair hair and blue eyes, nearly perfect features, and a beautiful +complexion. He used to dress very well and always<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span> +wore a button-hole—a rose or a carnation in summer—and +usually scented himself. He was very clever and had a good +deal of swagger, and was a favourite with the bigger boys at +Vidal’s, who often used to walk with him, which was strongly +disapproved of by some of the masters. I often helped him +out of a difficulty; and sometimes, when he had not learned +his lesson over night, I would prompt him in a low voice to +construe it, as I always sat next to him in school. He left +Eton very suddenly, at which I was quite distressed, as he +had always been so much with me, and I liked him more +than any other boy, and had been in his company the day +before he left. A more charming boy than Hodgson I have +never known; but he was conceited about his looks, for he +was one of the best-looking boys, if not the best-looking, at +Eton in those days.</p> + +<p>Another boy at the same Dame’s house as Hodgson was +Charles D. Robertson Williamson, who was considered to be +the best-looking boy then at Eton. He was higher up in +the school than I was, and, though his tutor, Mr. Johnson +(Cory, the author of “Ionica”), liked him very much, some +of the other masters did not approve of his putting on so much +side and being so often with bigger boys. At Lord’s, during +the Eton and Harrow match, I happened quite accidentally +to make the acquaintance of Williamson’s aunt. She was +only eighteen, and bore a most extraordinary resemblance +to her nephew, with the same beautiful face, the same short +upper lip, the same large, round, hazel eyes, the same beautifully +shaped mouth, the same delicate nose, slightly, in +fact almost imperceptibly, tilted, and the same brown hair; +and she was of the same height as he was. She spoke to me +without knowing me at all, saying:—</p> + +<p>“I want to keep my nephew with me a day or two longer. +Do you think I can do so?”</p> + +<p>“You must ask his tutor; no doubt he will allow you to +do so,” I answered, thinking that he could not possibly refuse +her.</p> + +<p>“Well, I will try.”</p> + +<p>With which, Williamson’s aunt went off in search of Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span> +Johnson, and presently returned, looking very pleased, and +said:—</p> + +<p>“Mr. Johnson has given the permission I wanted. I am +so happy!” And she clapped her hands together with +delight.</p> + +<p>I did not know Williamson to speak to before then, not +being so high in the school as he was, and I met him for the +first time when he came later in the day to meet his aunt +in the Grand Stand at Lord’s.</p> + +<p>Once, when Doyne and I were driving in a hansom from +Lord’s after the Eton and Harrow match, he caught sight of +the Hon. E. W. B. Portman, and said to me:—</p> + +<p>“Do you mind giving Billy Portman a lift?”</p> + +<p>We made room for him between us, which was an easy +enough matter in those days, though in years to come it +would have been quite impossible, for he grew so stout that +he weighed seventeen stone, and I rather fancy Jim Doyne +was even heavier.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<p class="hanging">An Amusing Incident—Lady Caroline Murray—An Anecdote of Queen +Victoria—Lord Rossmore’s Wager—The Match at the Wall—Practical +Jokes—Some Boys at James’s</p> + +</div> + +<p>Boys at Eton rarely made friends outside their +respective houses. Therefore, when Hodgson left, +I spent most of my spare time with Doyne, who even then was +very stout, and, though older than I, below me in the school. +When he left Eton, my chief companion was a boy named +Harry Gridley, with whom I messed for a short time, and +with whom I often went for walks on a Sunday along the +playing-fields by the river.</p> + +<p>Gridley, who was in the Fifth Form, was a dark-haired +boy, very kind and good-natured. He was in the Boats, +and a capital oar, and rowed later in the <i>Monarch</i>, the ten-oared +Upper boat. Sometimes I would go to Windsor with +him to play billiards, notwithstanding that this was against +the rules. One day, whilst we were playing, I, by way of a +joke, began ordering him about and calling him “Peter,” +and then, to tease him, told him that some man who was in +the room thought he was my fag. He flew into a rage, and, +when the man had left the room, rushed at me and caught me +by the throat, as though he would strangle me. However, +we soon made friends again, but, strange to say, this nickname +of “Peter,” which I had given him for the first time in +the billiard-room at Windsor, always stuck to him, even in +the 5th Lancers, which he joined later. He was very fond of +reading, and one day took up “Adam Bede,” by George +Eliot; but he told me that he could not finish it, as the +hero was a very ugly, red-haired man, and he disliked reading +about ugly people. He quite set me against the book, for +I never read it after he said this.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus11" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus11.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Charles Balfour, at Eton with the Author.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 80.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus12" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus12.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Miss Minnie Balfour, sister of Hilda, Lady de Clifford.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 81.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span></p> + +<p>Alexander, the Captain of the Oppidans, was a very +good-looking boy of eighteen; dark, with black, curly hair. +His memory was quite extraordinary, and he could repeat +the whole of the <i>Odyssey</i>, in the original Greek. Once +he had read a book and mastered its contents, he never +forgot it. Even Mr. James was astounded at Alexander’s +marvellous gift for remembering things. Locke was also +clever, but in a different way from Alexander.</p> + +<p>Some time after I went to Eton, my tutor got his cousin, +Mrs. Bower, to look after the boys instead of the housekeeper, +which was a pleasant change for us. She was about thirty-five +and a very nice woman, and, having taken rather a fancy +to me, used often to invite me to her room at five o’clock +and give me tea and cake.</p> + +<p>One day some friends of Doyne—a baronet and his three +daughters—came from London to see him. As it was a +Sunday, I did not get up until late, when I ran into Doyne’s +room, clad only in my night-shirt, and with my water-jug +in my hand, to get some water to wash with. To my horror, +I suddenly found myself confronted by three ladies, who, +on catching sight of me, uttered a scream, and then, as I +turned round and incontinently fled, burst into fits of laughter. +Doyne told me afterwards that his friends were highly +amused at this incident, and declared that they should +never forget their visit to Eton.</p> + +<p>A boy named Charles Balfour was my fag when I was +in the Fifth Form. Doyne, who was still in the Lower School, +found my having a fag very convenient, as the latter had +to cook the steaks and chops for our breakfast. Balfour +was a good-looking boy, and I liked him very much; but +he could not bear doing anything for Doyne, as the latter +was lower down in the school than he was. I met the late +Charles Balfour, with his father and family, at Wiesbaden +in after years. His sister Hilda, a very pretty girl, subsequently +married Lord de Clifford.</p> + +<p>With Balfour I met another old schoolfellow, Baldock, who +was with his sister at Wiesbaden. He was twelfth man +for the Eton Eleven one year, when I was there and Keeper<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span> +of “Sixpenny,” and was a general favourite with the lower +boys. Later on, in town, I recollect going to a ball at his +house in Grosvenor Place. He was made a C.B. by King +Edward VII., having served thirty-six years in the Yeomanry +and reached the rank of colonel.</p> + +<p>The present Lord Harris, G.C.S.I., the well-known cricketer, +was in the Eton Eleven in my time and afterwards Captain +of it. I can recollect him perfectly—a tall, fair-haired and +remarkably handsome boy, with merry blue eyes, who always +looked the picture of health. Amongst those who made +their mark at cricket and football, and, at the same time, +distinguished themselves in school, were the late Earl of +Pembroke and Montgomery, then the Hon. Sidney Herbert, +who was a good-looking boy, with blue eyes and black hair, +and the late Earl of Onslow. The latter was at one time +in the same division as myself.</p> + +<p>Sir Hubert Parry, so famous as a composer, was at Eton +with me, but much higher up in the school than I was. He +was at Vidal’s, and a boy in his house told me that he played +the violin beautifully. I can remember that he was a good +football player, and that I thought him a very fine-looking +fellow, but I only knew him by sight.</p> + +<p>Craven, when in the Fifth Form, kept his fags dancing +attendance on him all their spare time, and used to send +them on long errands to Windsor. “Mug” was his fag for +one half, and had a very lively time of it at first; but afterwards +Craven treated him very much better. I was John +Lister-Kaye’s fag at one time, and found him more exacting +than Locke, with whom I had had a very easy time; but he +became a friend of mine when I was higher up in the school. +“Mug” was his fag at the same time, and liked fagging for +him very much, as he treated him very kindly. His younger +brother, Cecil Lister-Kaye, was a friend of mine from the +very first. Both brothers were very good-looking boys, +with fair hair. The elder, afterwards Sir John Lister-Kaye, +who rowed in the <i>Victory</i> at Eton, subsequently entered +the “Blues.” On one occasion, the Lister-Kayes and myself +were invited to dine at Upton Park, with Mrs. Adair, a very<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span> +lovely woman, who, I recollect, was dressed in black velvet, +which set off her superb figure and dazzling skin to great +advantage. She was a grand-daughter of the Duchess of +Roxburghe and a great friend of my cousin, the Hon. Emily +Cathcart, maid-of-honour to Queen Victoria.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus13" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus13.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>W. H. Onslow, aged 13, afterwards Lord Onslow.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 82.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus14" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus14.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Hon. Emily Cathcart, Maid of Honour to Queen Victoria.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 83.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>One day, the Hon. Charles Finch, afterwards Earl of Aylesford, +who was in the same division as myself, told me that +he had stopped my cousin while she was walking with a +lady in Eton, and that a few days later, when he happened +to meet her again, she said to him:—</p> + +<p>“I have a bone to pick with you. Do you know whom +you kept waiting when you spoke to me the other day? +It was the Princess Louise (afterwards Duchess of Argyll)!” +The Earl of Aylesford, like myself, was a cousin of Emily +Cathcart.</p> + +<p>While at Eton, I used occasionally to spend the day with +my great-aunt, Lady Georgiana Cathcart. She lived near +Ascot, and once when I was driving with her and her daughter +we called on the Ladies Murray, who had a fine house in +the neighbourhood, and Lady Caroline told us that if we +had come some minutes earlier, we should have met Queen +Victoria, who had lunched with them in quite an informal +way, saying:—</p> + +<p>“Give me what you have ready, nothing else.”</p> + +<p>Lady Caroline told me that, owing to bearing the same +name, she had frequently been mistaken for my mother’s +aunt at Richmond, who had recently died. She showed me +an oak-tree which her brother, the Earl of Mansfield, had +planted in his garden the last time he had come to see her. +In her younger days, she had been lady-in-waiting to the +Duchess of Kent, at which time she was considered a great +beauty.</p> + +<p>One day, when I was dining at Ascot, I met my cousin +Emily, who was wearing a lovely dress of violet velvet, +trimmed with white lace, and said:—</p> + +<p>“Her Majesty said I was not to wear this dress at Court, +and I have only worn it once before, although it cost me a +good deal of money.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span></p> + +<p>Queen Victoria, it seems, would often take a dislike to +some dress worn by one of her maids-of-honour.</p> + +<p>I frequently went to Windsor Castle to see my cousin. +On one occasion, I mistook the room, and had to wait for +some time in a drawing-room. Presently, a lady came in, +who was very charming in her manner towards me, and +had some tea and muffins brought to me by a man-servant +in the scarlet livery of the Palace. This lady I afterwards +learned was the Countess of Erroll. Once, when I called +at the Castle I was received by the Hon. Harriet Phipps, +who told me that my cousin had left Windsor and that she +had taken her place in waiting. She invited me to have some +tea, which was brought in in a solid silver teapot, and served +in very fine porcelain cups, on both of which was the Royal +crown, and was very kind and amiable.</p> + +<p>One day, my cousin Emily asked me to bring the late Lord +Alexander Kennedy, son of the Marquis of Ailsa, who was +in my division at Eton, to the Castle to tea, which I did. +He and I smoked cigarettes in her room, and, when we heard +her coming, threw them out of the window. However, she +smelt the smoke and said:—</p> + +<p>“I hope you have not thrown the cigarettes out of the +window, for ‘H.M.’ is coming this way, and I shall get +into trouble if she sees them.”</p> + +<p>We tried to calm her, but she appeared to be rather annoyed +at the time.</p> + +<p>Emily Cathcart was very good-looking, with dark eyes and +black hair and a fine figure. In her general appearance, +she always reminded me very much of the late Empress of +Austria. Her manner was charming, and she was always +very amiable, and had so pleasant a smile that it seemed +as though it would be impossible for her to be angry with +anyone. I remember her telling me once that at Windsor +she rarely ever spoke English, having to receive so many +foreign guests for Her Majesty. On the occasion that Kennedy +and I went there, we saw the Duc d’Aumale walking away +from the Castle as we arrived.</p> + +<p>Queen Victoria liked to be read to by her maids-of-honour,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span> +which was sometimes a very trying experience for them, +particularly by night. A boy at Eton was one of her pages-of-honour, +and, as he was late in coming out of school one day +that his services were required, he did not stop to wash his +hands, but hurried off to the Castle, in order to be in time +for some ceremony. Afterwards, the train which he had to +hold was found to have dirty spots on it, so he was immediately +dismissed from his office by Her Majesty. This story was +told me by Mr. James.</p> + +<p>My mother told me that Queen Victoria was once lunching +at the house of the Duke of Sussex, and, on being asked if +the mutton cutlets were to her liking, replied carelessly:—</p> + +<p>“Oh! the chops are not bad.” She also related that once, +in her younger days, the Queen was visiting the country-seat +of a certain nobleman, where everything imaginable +in and out of season had been procured for Her Majesty’s +delectation, no matter at what cost. However, on the Queen +being asked what she would be pleased to take, to the horror +and amazement of her host, she named the only thing which +was not in the house, and which there was no possibility +of procuring. It was whispered that the Queen had asked +for this particular <i>plat</i>, which was one of a simple but +unusual kind, purposely, as she appeared to be amused at +the consternation her request had aroused.</p> + +<p>Just after I left Eton, Emily invited me to the Haymarket +Theatre, telling me to inquire for the Queen’s box. I arrived, +and was duly ushered into the Royal box, which, however, +was untenanted. So I sat there in solitary state, to the no +small curiosity of the audience, who perhaps imagined +that I must be some quite important person, until presently +my cousin arrived, accompanied by a very handsome and +exquisitely dressed woman, who, I learned, was Lady +Churchill. The latter, who was lady-in-waiting to the Queen, +was most fascinating, and had all the distinction of a <i>très +grande dame</i>. She was most kind and gracious to me, even +going out of her way to draw me out, so that I was soon +quite at my ease in her company.</p> + +<p>In winter, if we happened to have a frost hard enough to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> +make Virginia Water safe for skaters, we used to be taken +there by Mr. James to skate and play hockey on the ice, a +game in which my tutor always took part himself. Windsor +Steeplechases were an event always looked forward to by +the boys, for, though we were forbidden to go to them, we +went all the same. Sometimes we would be attacked by +roughs, who tried to prevent us crossing certain ditches to +get to the race-course, and on one occasion a man tried to +stop me. But I pushed him aside, managed to jump a +ditch, and got safely to the course. Windsor Fair was at +one time forbidden to the boys, but this did not prevent +them all going there. I went once with Craven and saw a +circus without paying anything, the man at the entrance +having overlooked us as we rushed in. Afterwards, Mr. +James happened to mention the Fair, when we all laughed +and began to talk about the different shows we had seen. +The master took it in good part, merely remarking:—</p> + +<p>“It’s lucky for you I did not catch you there.”</p> + +<p>The Christopher Inn at Eton was also out of bounds, +but at times some of the big boys would invite the smaller +ones there. If, however, one of the masters happened to +catch sight of them coming out, there would be the devil +to pay. I don’t remember ever going to the “Christopher,” +though I did most things that were forbidden.</p> + +<p>The elder son of General Sir John Douglas, Captain Niel +Douglas, who was an Old Etonian and an officer in the Scots +Guards, then stationed at Windsor, invited me to lunch at +the barracks, where I was introduced to Lord Mark Innes-Ker, +who used to ride his own horses in the Windsor Steeplechases. +I enjoyed my lunch very much, as it was quite a +novelty for me. Eton boys were often invited to the +barracks to lunch with officers of the Household Brigade +whom they knew, as so many Old Etonians went into the +Guards. I remember Blane, who was a pupil of my tutor, +once coming down to Eton just after he had left the school, +and telling me that he was about to join the Scots Guards, +who were then stationed at Windsor. Lord Rossmore, +whom I knew very well at Eton, entered the 1st Life Guards,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span> +and was killed riding in a steeplechase over the Windsor +course in 1874. By a singular coincidence he had fallen +at the same jump, while riding the same horse, the previous +year. Rossmore, who was in the same division with me, +was very popular at Eton. He was perpetually playing +practical jokes, and I can recollect that on one occasion he +made a bet that he would drive a trap through Eton. He +won it, too, by driving through the town on a cart, disguised +as a waterman, so that the masters did not recognize him. If +one of them had happened to penetrate his disguise, he would +perhaps have been expelled.</p> + +<p>Gridley and I once went for a bicycle ride in the country, +and, happening to be seen, were sent up to the Head Master, +Dr. Hornby, who said:—</p> + +<p>“It is too grave an offence for me to swish you, so each +of you must write out a book of the <i>Iliad</i>, with accents, +stops and breathings.”</p> + +<p>Fortunately for us, Mrs. Bower made Mr. James persuade +the Head Master to let us off when we had done a quarter +of the work.</p> + +<p>When I first went to Eton, the Head Master was Dr. +Balston, a very handsome, stately and severe-looking man, +whom the masters and boys liked—at a distance. When +Dr. Hornby succeeded him, it was feared that he would +introduce a great many reforms, which the masters dreaded +as much as the boys; but these apprehensions proved to +be groundless. While I was at Eton, Dr. Hornby was very +much liked by the boys; but I cannot say that his popularity +extended to his colleagues, some of whom, I know, +regarded him with far from friendly feelings.</p> + +<p>There was a “sock”-shop, called Brown’s, near James’s +house in those days, where excellent buttered buns were +sold. An Old Etonian, Theobald, Viscount Dillon, told me +that, on his return to Eton when past sixty, he tried the buns +again, and exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“Goodness! how these buns have altered; they aren’t +half as good as they used to be!” Then, looking round at +the boys, who seemed to be enjoying them just as much as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span> +he and his contemporaries had done in days of yore, he +added regretfully:—</p> + +<p>“After all, it isn’t the buns that have altered. It is +simply that I have lost my taste for them.”</p> + +<p>I used often to go to Brown’s, generally of a morning, to +eat a buttered bun, which I enjoyed immensely. There was +another “sock”-shop, called Webber’s, where in summer +we used to indulge in strawberry messes. Marmalade was +in favour with most of us for breakfast, and I recollect how +Craven used always to send for eighteenpenny pots at a time, +saying that the others were too small for his appetite.</p> + +<p>One Fourth of June my father came down to Eton, and +asked at my tutor’s for Charles Douglas, the younger son +of General Sir John Douglas, and William Kinglake, who +was in a different house and whom I did not then know. +We all walked down to the river to see the boats. It was +a very pretty sight, and prettier still in the evening, when +the fireworks began. I saw several lovely young girls, +beautifully dressed, drinking champagne with their brothers, +and envied the latter having such pretty sisters. William +Kinglake was a nephew of the author of “Eöthen,” who was +a first cousin of my father. He was in the Boats the following +year, but died soon after he left Eton. Charles Douglas, +after leaving Eton, joined his father’s old regiment, the +79th Highlanders, but soon retired from the Service, while +still a lieutenant.</p> + +<p>I passed my “exam.” in swimming before Mr. Warre at +my first try, and often went on the river. But I was a +“dry bob,” and generally preferred playing cricket in +“Sixpenny,” some of the fields by the river, which in winter +were used for football matches. Doyne never went on +the river, since, as he was not allowed to bathe, he could +not pass the necessary “exam.,” and so was forcibly a “dry +bob.” At James’s, only Alexander and one or two others +were “dry bobs,” and, as the house was a small one, we had +no cricket eleven, like other houses. James’s football colours +were a combination of reds of different shades with violet +and black, which were not by any means pretty colours.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> +Yonge’s were red and black; Day’s, black and white; +Evans’s, scarlet with a black skull and cross-bones; Warre’s, +a combination of red, yellow and other colours; and Vidal’s, +yellow and black. The well-known cricketer, C. I. Thornton, +was at Vidal’s, and was a great friend of Williamson, while +the latter was there. Thornton was a tremendously hard +hitter at cricket, and I can remember many of his wonderful +hits beyond the ropes when he was playing for Eton against +Harrow at Lord’s. The colours of the Second Eleven or +Twenty-two at cricket were blue and black; the Eton Eleven, +of course, wore light blue, as did the Eton Eight.</p> + +<p>On St. Andrew’s Day a football match—the game at the +Wall—was played between Oppidans and Collegers, in +which the latter were generally successful, so far as I can +recollect. This match always drew a large crowd, but, for +a spectator, I cannot imagine anything more tedious to +watch, unless he be interested in the final result, and even +then he must be gifted with an uncommon stock of patience +to be able to watch it from start to finish. For those engaged +in it it is, of course, different, as some players prefer the wall +to the field game, and I have heard that it affords them more +excitement, besides being a far greater strain on the nerves +and muscles. A lady who would enjoy watching the game +at the Wall would in all probability find pleasure in a Spanish +bull-fight, though both would be distasteful to a really nervous, +sensitive girl. A young Spanish lady once told me at +Seville that to look at a girl performing on the trapeze made +her feel faint, whereas she never failed to attend a bull-fight +on a Sunday, in which she took a keener pleasure than in any +other form of amusement. This shows how strangely one’s +nerves are constituted, and that this kind of thing is, after +all, merely a matter of habit.</p> + +<p>In the summer, Mr. James would often take us with +Mrs. Bower on the river, when we would bring our dinner +with us, and would often go as far as Monkey Island, or +even to Maidenhead, returning at night by moonlight. We +all rowed in turn and had dinner in the beautiful woods of +Cliveden, which was at that time the property of the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> +of Sutherland, but now belongs to Lord Astor, whose father +subsequently bought the estate. The late Duke of Sutherland, +who was then the Marquis of Stafford, was with me at +Eton, but higher up in the school, and I can remember him +very well. He was a good-looking boy with fair hair.</p> + +<p>Lord Astor (formerly Mr. Waldorf Astor), the present +owner of Cliveden, was at Eton also, though very many years +after my time, where he was Captain of the Boats, and +gained the Prince Consort’s Prize for French one year. His +father belonged to one of the best families in the United +States, and the son became a naturalized Englishman.</p> + +<p>These river excursions were most enjoyable, and, when +coming home, we sang songs in chorus, which sounded well +in the stillness of the summer night. I was nearly always +taken by Mr. James, as I was one of Mrs. Bower’s favourites, +and she insisted on my being invited. A boy named H. B. +Walker, who was then high up in the school, was also generally +one of the party. Walker was very amusing, and used +to chaff me to annoy Mrs. Bower, but all in jest, as we were +very good friends. Mr. James was very pleasant during +these outings, and would sometimes indulge his propensity +for making jokes, which at times the boys would appreciate, +though at others they found the wit a trifle strained. One +day, Walker said:—</p> + +<p>“That joke you made I think I could improve upon, sir.”</p> + +<p>“I did not mean it for one; you always see a joke where +I cannot see anything,” replied Mr. James.</p> + +<p>“Charles, you know you meant it for a joke,” exclaimed +Mrs. Bower.</p> + +<p>“Well, if I did, I apologize,” said her cousin, laughing; +“but you boys always appreciate my jokes better in school +hours.”</p> + +<p>“Because there is generally more point in them, sir,” +remarked Walker.</p> + +<p>“But the best of it is I never can see any joke in some +of the things I say which provoke fits of laughter, and that +always annoys me considerably.”</p> + +<p>“It’s quite a habit of yours, Charles, to make these<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> +jokes,” said Mrs. Bower; “I confess I don’t care for them +at any time.”</p> + +<p>“Ladies never do,” retorted Mr. James.</p> + +<p>And he laughed and looked very pleased at his remark, to +which Mrs. Bower vouchsafed no reply.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus15" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus15.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Henry Hooker Walker, at Eton with +the Author.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 90.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus16" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus16.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Hon. J. W. Lowther, present +Speaker of the House of Commons.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 91.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Another boy who often went on these river excursions was +a nephew of Mrs. Bower, named Holdsworth. He was a +fine-looking fellow, older than I was and much higher up in +the school. He was a very good oar, rowing in the <i>Victory</i> +and also in the Eight; but he over-exerted himself in the +latter and died shortly after leaving Eton. His father was +a wealthy man, and his mother was called at one time the +“Pocket Venus.” He had a sister, a pretty, fair-haired +girl, who in after years married the late Sir James Dimsdale, +Lord Mayor of London, who was also an Etonian.</p> + +<p>Walker also died shortly after leaving school, when he +was barely eighteen. He died of a brain disease at his +mother’s house in Palmeira Square, Brighton. I happened +to be at Brighton a few weeks before, and he came to see me.</p> + +<p>One First of April, at Eton, I delivered a message to +Walker, which was supposed to have come from Lord Rossmore, +asking him to lunch at the “Christopher” at one +o’clock. Rossmore, who had been very friendly with Walker +at school, had lately joined the 1st Life Guards, who were +stationed at Windsor Barracks, and often invited Walker +there. And so the latter, suspecting nothing, went to the +“Christopher,” and waited there for some time for Rossmore, +with the result that he was not only disappointed of +his expected lunch, but missed his dinner at James’s. He +was very angry with me at the time, but he often laughed +afterwards at this practical joke.</p> + +<p>I also wrote a note to a boy named Lewin C. Cholmeley, +purporting to come from a person living in a street at the +farther end of Windsor, where I had never been, to say that +if he called there he would hear of something to his advantage. +He, too, fell into the trap, went to the street mentioned, +and hunted a long time for the house, but was unable +to find it, as there was no such number there. When he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span> +got back to James’s he found that dinner was over, and I +don’t think he ever quite forgave me for the joke I had played +upon him; certainly he never forgot it. Cholmeley was +lower in school than I was at that time. When in the Fifth +Form, he was in the Boats. I heard that, after I left Eton, +he fell out with my tutor one Fourth of June, and was one +of those who nearly drowned him in Chalvey. This affair +might have entailed serious consequences for Cholmeley, +had not Mr. James forgiven him and interceded in his +favour with the Head Master. Cholmeley is now a wealthy +solicitor in London.</p> + +<p>When I had nothing better to do of an evening, I often +used to go to Leyton’s, at Windsor, which was famous for +its pastry, and where a good many Eton boys were always +to be found. My companion on these occasions was usually +Lord Edward Somerset, who was in my division. On leaving +Eton, Lord Edward Somerset entered the 23rd Welsh Fusiliers, +from which he subsequently exchanged into the “Blues.” +He died soon after his marriage, while still quite young.</p> + +<p>The German master at Eton was Herr Griebel, from +whom I took private lessons at the same time as Count +Bentinck. We read together Goethe’s <i>Die Leiden des jungen +Werthers</i> and Auerbach’s <i>Das Landhaus am Rhein</i>. Herr +Griebel told me that after he had been in England some +time he forgot German entirely. Then he went back to +Germany, and entirely forgot English. “But now,” he +added, “I shall never forget either language, as I am far +too old.” I was in the select one year for the Prince Consort’s +German Prize, and the year following next in marks to the +boy who won it. For the French Prize I was also rather +high up in marks. Mr. Frank Tarver and his brother were +the French masters at Eton then. One half the former got +up a performance of Molière’s <i>le Bourgeois Gentilhomme</i>, +which was acted by the boys and himself. Molière is said +to have portrayed himself in <i>le Misanthrope</i>. It is well +known that he used to read his comedies, first of all, to his +old housekeeper, and when she smiled at certain passages, +he felt sure that they would amuse the public also.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span></p> + +<p>Gridley’s younger brother, Reginald Gridley, after I had +left Eton, rowed in the <i>Victory</i> and the Eight, and was a +well-known oar at Cambridge, where he rowed for the +University Eight against Oxford. Gridley himself, after +holding a commission in the 5th Lancers and subsequently +in the 78th Highlanders, was called to the Bar, but died soon +afterwards. George Baird, who rowed in the Eight in 1873, +was also at James’s, and was my fag for a short time. When +he was in the Fifth Form, Arthur Cavendish-Bentinck, now +Duke of Portland, fagged for him. George Baird, after +leaving Eton, joined the 16th Lancers, and is now a +colonel. I saw a good deal of him at my tutor’s, but +all I remember about him is that he was a very nice +fellow and that he messed with Blagrove. He had a +cousin, Douglas Baird, who was also at James’s. Craven, +on leaving Eton, entered the Grenadier Guards, from which +he retired as captain. He married soon afterwards, and died +at twenty-two. Holdsworth messed with Thomas Wood, +who was also in the Boats (the <i>Thetis</i>), and distinguished +himself in school. I met him in after years at Aldershot, +where he was in the Grenadier Guards, and I remember that +he behaved very generously to Temple—“Mug,” as we +used to call him at Eton—when he was in bad health and +poor circumstances, assisting him and seeing that he had +the best medical advice in his illness, of which, however, +he died when he was barely twenty years old.</p> + +<p>Two other boys who were with me at James’s were Percy +Aylmer and Augustus Ralli. Aylmer, who was a very good-looking +and exceedingly nice fellow, travelled with Colvin +in after years, and now resides on his property in Durham. +Ralli was a bright-looking boy, with very dark eyes, and +was very popular in the house. Unhappily, he died of +rheumatic fever at Eton in March 1872. There were, of +course, many other boys at James’s besides those whom I +have mentioned, but I cannot now recall anything about +them worth recording here. Doyne left Eton long before +I did, and died of influenza some years ago in Ireland.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<p class="center">Athletic Sports at Eton—A “Scrap”—Lord Newlands—An +Old Boy on Eton of To-day</p> + +</div> + +<p>Henley Regatta was an event which was always +eagerly looked forward to by us boys. I used to go +there with Mr. James and Mrs. Bower and some of the boys +in our house. Sometimes we went by river all the way; +at others by rail. One year, while sitting in the Grand +Stand, I overheard a conversation between a boy named +Kirklinton-Saul and his mother. Said the latter:—</p> + +<p>“I don’t always expect to hear from you, my dear, +but when you want money, be sure and write, won’t +you?”</p> + +<p>To which request the young gentleman gave the answer +which might be expected.</p> + +<p>I could not help thinking at the time: “What a nice +mamma! I wonder if there are many such mammas +about?” The dinner at Henley used to consist of duck +and green peas with beer, which the boys used to enjoy +greatly; but there was such a crowd at the regatta, that +there was always a tremendous scramble to get to the +tables. Mr. James did not take dinner with him when we +went to Henley, as it was so far from Eton. The toilettes +of the ladies were very elaborate, though hardly equal to +those one saw at the Eton and Harrow match at Lord’s. +Nevertheless, there were some very pretty dresses, and—what +was still more important—some very pretty faces. +For many young girls came with their mothers to see their +friends and relatives compete for the Ladies’ Plate, which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span> +in those days Eton used to win year after year in succession.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> +The light blue of Eton was worn by the boys and by the +pretty girls who accompanied them.</p> + +<p>The Athletic Sports at Eton were always interesting to +watch. The steeplechase course was a most severe one, +some very big natural jumps having to be negotiated, ending +with the brook, which was the biggest jump of all. H. M. +Ridley was the fastest runner at Eton in my time.</p> + +<p>I recollect one day having a try at the brook in the +“field,” which I succeeded in jumping. The late Lord +Lonsdale and his brother, the present Earl, were standing +some way off, and must have thought I could not do it, for +the former shouted out when I landed safely on the further +bank:—</p> + +<p>“Well done, Black-eyed Susan!” <i>Black-eyed Susan</i>, I +may mention, was the name of a popular burlesque, by +Douglas Jerrold, which had a great run at that time at +the Strand Theatre. One morning, before breakfast, I ran +John Lister-Kaye one hundred yards for a bet of five shillings, +he giving me five yards start, and managed to win, though +he had felt very confident about beating me. I ran one year +in the Hundred Yards for boys under sixteen at the Sports, +and Holdsworth, who was acting as umpire, told me afterwards +that I might have won it, had I not stopped a yard +short, through mistaking the boundary line. He often<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span> +asked me why I had done so, but the only reason I could give +was that I was so short-sighted.</p> + +<p>We had a play-room at James’s, where we used to practise +the high jump, and there were some boys who could clear +a jump higher than themselves. In this room stood a large +blackboard, upon which all the names of the boys who had +been at James’s were carved, with the year they came and +the year they left.</p> + +<p>The cricket match between Eton and Winchester was +played in alternate years at either school. When the match +took place at Eton, the band of the Life Guards or the +“Blues” would play on the ground, where there was always +a large attendance of visitors, including a great number of +ladies. But it was never so fine a sight as the Eton and +Harrow match at Lord’s. At one Winchester match I remember +seeing Miss Evans (George Eliot), who had come as the +guest of one of the masters, and whose presence created quite +a sensation.</p> + +<p>Once at Lord’s, during the Eton and Harrow match, I +was invited on to the drag of a friend of mine named C. N. +Ridley, who was in my own division, where I had an excellent +lunch, washed down by champagne. Ridley was a good-looking +boy, with fair, curly hair and blue eyes, and his +two sisters, who were exquisitely dressed on this occasion +in light blue satin dresses with white lace, were considered +remarkable beauties in London. They were quite young +and very fair, like their brother, with the most lovely blue +eyes of the shade of the myosotis. They might often be +seen in the season riding in the Park, and were greatly admired +by the Prince of Wales, afterwards King Edward VII., +who invited them to Marlborough House. Unhappily, both +these beautiful girls and their brother were consumptive, +and I heard that they all three died of consumption not very +long afterwards.</p> + +<p>In those days, the Eton and Harrow match at Lord’s was +a far more pleasant function than it has since become. +Only people interested in Eton or Harrow were there, and +a good view of the game could easily be obtained. Nowadays<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span> +people go who do not know one school from the other, +and the whole space is reserved for the M.C.C., so that if you +do not happen to be a member, you cannot see the game at +all. One constantly hears people say at Lord’s now:—</p> + +<p>“I don’t know anything about cricket and care less, but +I have come to see the ladies’ toilettes.”</p> + +<p>In the old days this was not so. Lord’s has certainly not +improved since.<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> + +<p>The boys at James’s used often to go into the pantry, +where William, the butler, would give them a glass of claret, +and water Mr. James’s wine well for him afterwards. Often +the butler would exclaim: “Ha! spider up there!” and +while we were looking for it, he watered the claret. It was +in the butler’s pantry that I had the only fight I ever had +at Eton, the day before I left for good. My opponent was +the Hon., afterwards Lord, Henry Vane-Tempest, a son of +the Marquis of Londonderry, who was a little lower down +in the school than I was. I don’t think either of us really +wanted to fight, but we were egged on by others whose +respective parts we had taken in a quarrel, and after a very +short “scrap,” which I got the best of, we shook hands and +made friends. When I went down to Eton again, I met +Vane-Tempest at my tutor’s, and he told me that he was +then leaving to enter the “Blues.” He has since joined the +majority, quite young in life.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span></p> + +<p>Of the boys at James’s, I may mention that Sir John +Lister-Kaye married Miss Yznaga, an American lady, one +of two sisters celebrated for their beauty and toilettes in +Paris, where I often met them in society. Sir John was a +gentleman in attendance on the late King Edward VII. +Lord Mandeville, who was in the Grenadier Guards, and +afterwards became Duke of Manchester, married the other +sister. Cecil Lister-Kaye married the sister of the Duke of +Newcastle, who was himself at Eton. Cecil Lister-Kaye +told me recently that his son was at Eton, and that he often +went down to see him. He, no doubt, on these occasions, +thinks with some regret of the happy days of his youth at +James’s. I have come across some of those who were with +me at Eton in quite unexpected places. For instance, I met +the present Earl of Northbrook in Bombay. He was on his +way to visit his uncle, then Viceroy of India, and had come +to Bombay, he told me, to buy Arab horses. He was in the +same division with me at Eton, and afterwards served in +the Rifle Brigade and Grenadier Guards. Although I may +have forgotten many of my schoolfellows at Eton, I can +never forget those who were in my division. Among them was +Henry de Vere Vane, then a very clever, fair-haired boy, whom +I remember envying because he learned everything so quickly. +He was the late Lord Barnard, and inherited the Cleveland +estates on succeeding to this title. I had been told that in +the hall of Raby Castle, his country-seat, a fire had been +lighted two hundred years ago and had never been extinguished +since. But Lord Barnard informed me that this is +a legend, and sent me an account of a similar one:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p class="center">“<i>Fire kept in for two hundred years.</i></p> + +<p>“One of the loneliest spots in England, where there are +only four cottages in an area of thirty thousand acres, was +described at Brampton (Cumberland) Revision Court. The +Conservative agent, Mr. Mawson, said he had visited the +farm, which was situated on a remote fell between Bewcastle +and Haltwhistle, on the border of Northumberland. Members<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span> +of the farmer’s family had lived in this particular cottage for +six hundred years, and there was a tradition that the kitchen +fire had never been out for two hundred years. The claimant +slept in a bedroom eight feet square. There was a child +there that had not seen another child for two years.”</p> + +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="illus17" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus17.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Duke of Rutland</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 98.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Another who was in my division was the Hon. V. A. +Parnell, a good-looking boy, with black hair with a blueish +reflection in it, and fine eyes. He was a good cricketer and +clever in school. At times, when we were up to Mr. Thackeray, +Parnell, as he reminded me recently, would, <i>faute de +mieux à faire</i>, be engaged in shinning matches with a boy +who sat next to him called Dobson. The latter was a very +good-humoured fellow, who retaliated without losing his +temper, though at times he could with difficulty refrain from +betraying the pain which he endured so stoically with a +smiling face.</p> + +<p>The present Duke of Rutland, then Henry F. B. Manners, +was at Eton with me, but higher up in the school, and if +my memory does not deceive me, was in the Boats when in +the Fifth Form.</p> + +<p>The present Lord Newlands, then known as J. H. C. Hozier, +was very high up in the school, and I can remember when +he was in my tutor’s division, as the latter used to say +how clever he was, and he frequently came to the pupil-room +at James’s. Mr. James would often tell us about those +who were up to him, but it was rarely that he bestowed +praise on any boy.</p> + +<p>When Doyne left Eton, I had his room, which commanded +a view of the fine lime-trees, which in the summer looked +very charming. On the wall hard by the boys used to stand +or sit to criticize all the people who passed along the road +running through Eton. This must have been a rather +trying ordeal for some of the latter, for I remember that I +used to find it a very trying experience when I happened +to be late for chapel, particularly when I first came to Eton, +to be obliged to run the gauntlet of a double row of boys, +who never failed to pass remarks on everyone. The choir<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span> +at Eton, which was the same as that of St. George’s Chapel +at Windsor, was a very good one, and one of the boys who +sang in it, named Hancock, was paid, I was told, one hundred +and fifty pounds a year. Hancock sang occasionally the +solo part in Mendelssohn’s anthem, “O, for the wings of a +dove,” in a marvellous manner, his high notes being wonderfully +clear; but his voice lacked expression, and, as boys +and girls generally regard certain things purely from an +æsthetic point of view, the impression it made upon us +was one rather of surprise than of admiration. Some of us +used to go on Sundays to St. George’s, Windsor, and sit in +the organ loft, where Dr. Elvey, who was a remarkably +fine organist, played most beautifully.</p> + +<p>After Dr. Hornby became Head Master, the custom of +giving leaving books was abolished. Personally, I regretted +this innovation, not because I did not receive any, but +because I liked to make presents to my friends who were +leaving Eton; and the expense was a small one, to which, +I am sure, none of our parents objected.</p> + +<p>Most of us look back upon our school days as the happiest +part of our lives, for, to the schoolboy, the cares and anxieties +which weigh upon us as we grow older are unknown, and, +given good health, an Eton boy’s life ought to be <i>par excellence</i> +the very sum of earthly happiness. Lord Rathdonnell, +late of the Scots Greys, who, when at Eton, as McClintock-Bunbury, +stroked the Eight at Henley, and excelled at +football and at most games, besides being very high up in +the school and very popular, wrote to me some years ago, +saying that the years he spent at Eton were by far the happiest +of his life, and that he always looked back to them +with intense pleasure. The Captain of the Boats at that +time was Edwards-Moss, now a baronet. Horace Ricardo +(now Colonel Ricardo, C.V.O.), whom I remember quite +well, was then in the <i>Monarch</i>, and his brother Cecil rowed +in the <i>Victory</i> and was Captain of the Boats in 1871. After +leaving Eton, both brothers entered the Grenadier Guards, +and each of them commanded a battalion before retiring from +the Service. I remember that Doyne, who was never high<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span> +up in the school and for whom Latin and Greek were somewhat +of a torture, telling me years afterwards that he looked +back with regret to the happy days he had spent at Eton, +which, all things considered, were perhaps the happiest of +his life. Yet Doyne was not one of those who had any +trouble in after life; on the contrary, he had everything +which a man could possibly desire, besides enjoying good +health. But the joyous, irresponsible days of school life +were gone for ever, and, as he confessed to me, he would only +too gladly have returned to them and lived them over again.</p> + +<p>In regard to Eton at the present day, I heard not long +ago from an old schoolfellow, the late Colonel Sir Josceline +Bagot, a distinguished officer of the Guards and author, who +had had a boy there, and who wrote as follows:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“It all seems much the same, though, to my mind, +not improved in some ways. They have got more +room certainly, but, for such a big place as it has become, +I think the traditional freedom of the boys is overdone +altogether. Much too much importance is given to +boys in ‘Pop,’ and allowing them and Captains of +Houses to smack boys with canes for certain offences +more or less officially is, to my mind, a great mistake, +and starts the rotten system of many public schools +of ‘monitors,’ ‘prefects,’ etc. No boys should have +that power, and it is much worse for them to have it +than for the boys who get smacked. It all comes from +the masters thinking themselves too grand to swish +boys as in the old days; and the Head Master smacks +them on rare occasions with a stick, whereupon they +put on two pairs of trousers, etc., and merely laugh at +it and him, and they barely touch their hats at all to +the masters. They all smoke now to a great extent, +far more than we ever did, and, though the Head Master +is wild about it, he is powerless to do anything sensible +to stop it; and some of these rich Jew boys and foreigners +have far too much money and spoil things. If I were +Head Master, I wouldn’t have them at the school at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"></a>[102]</span> +all. I was next to Lyttelton in school for a year or so, +and like him, but he has no respect and control at all +for such a position. Still, if drawbacks have crept in, +it is still the best school in the world.”</p> + +</div> + +<p>As time goes on, one hears everywhere, and always in a +louder whisper, the serious, dangerous word, “decadence.” +But let us allow the evil question whether our culture is +really going to ground to rest, and rather attempt a very naïve +example: Suppose a true son of classical Greece—Socrates, +for instance—were conducted in a dream into the midst of +our modern culture. He would look with amazement at +the marvellous means of locomotion, the production of the +factories, the luxurious comfort of private houses, the magnificence +of our theatres and so forth; but the question whether +we ought to be proud and happy he would answer in his +usual way:—</p> + +<p>“In my country I knew Pericles and heard the dramas of +Sophocles. I knew Alcibiades and saw Phidias at work, and +my pupil was Plato. Now show me your living masters.”</p> + +<p>The next day Socrates would relate:—</p> + +<p>“I dreamt this night I was in Persia. Everything is +greater there than you can imagine. Immensely great are the +treasures, the armies and navies, the towns and houses, the +machinery employed. In short, everything is inconceivably +great; only the people are very small....”</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"></a>[103]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<p class="center">Lady Grace Stopford—Tipperary in 1870—Robbed at Punchestown +Races—I get my own back</p> + +</div> + +<p>Just after I left Eton, in 1870, I went over to Ireland +to stay with my friend Doyne, who lived in County +Wexford, and had a fine estate near the sea, about +half an hour’s walk from the beach. His mother and sister +lived with him, and he and I rode about his property and +amused ourselves very well, though he had no near neighbours, +except the Earl of Courtown and his family. The +eldest son, Viscount Stopford, who had been with us at Eton, +was away at the time, though his sister, Lady Grace Stopford, +was there. One day we called, and were received by +Lady Grace, who was the only one of the family at home. +After shaking hands with her, Doyne said:—</p> + +<p>“I wanted to show my friend the fairest young lady in +the county.”</p> + +<p>At which compliment she blushed and replied:—</p> + +<p>“I am afraid he will be much disappointed.”</p> + +<p>“On the contrary,” I observed, “I am agreeably surprised.”</p> + +<p>She then inquired if I knew her brother, and I told her +that we were at Eton together. Lady Grace was a girl of +about sixteen, with a lovely complexion, blue eyes and +regular features. Her hair was of a reddish tint, similar to +that which one sees in certain pictures by Correggio, and +particularly in one in the Liechtenstein Gallery in Vienna, +the face of which also bore a resemblance to hers. In her +manner she appeared somewhat stiff, and more like the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"></a>[104]</span> +English than the Irish, who are generally so free and easy. +But then Lady Grace always spent the season in London, +and lived most of her time in England. Her brother, Lord +Stopford, now Earl of Courtown, was in the Grenadier +Guards, and had lately joined his regiment.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Doyne was a charming old lady, and her daughters +had delightful manners and were exceedingly pleasant in +every way. While I was with them, Mrs. Doyne told me +that she and her family had received an invitation to Killarney, +and asked me to go with them, which I did with +great pleasure. The house we stayed at was a fine one, very +prettily situated near the Lake of Killarney, and the weather +being beautiful and very hot, it was very pleasant to go +on the lake and visit the different sights in the neighbourhood. +I was delighted with the scenery of the lake and +the various waterfalls in the woods, some of the views being +exquisitely lovely. One day, when Doyne and I were riding +on donkeys on the rugged hills near the lake, a bare-footed +Irish girl came up and spoke to us in Irish, showing her +beautiful teeth. She had very black eyes and black hair +falling loosely over her shoulders, and her legs, like her feet, +were bare. She could not speak a word of English, but +Doyne made her understand him somehow by means of +gestures.</p> + +<p>Killarney gave me the impression that I was in Italy. +There were so many bare-legged boys and girls walking +about, and the scenery was more like that of the south of +Europe than the British Isles; while the almost tropical +heat we were experiencing just then completed the illusion. +One day it rained very heavily, so Doyne and I went to the +Hôtel Victoria, where an American, who was playing billiards, +said to us:—</p> + +<p>“I guess I shall have to say that I have seen the Lake +of Killarney from this billiard-room window, as I am leaving +early to-morrow morning.”</p> + +<p>The tutor of a young fellow staying at the hôtel told me +that I must have Scottish blood in my veins, because I +walked so carefully, as if calculating every step I took, while<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"></a>[105]</span> +an Irishman walked without the least hesitation. I noticed +that the good looks of the Irish people were found more in +the lower classes than in those above them. Some of the +bare-legged girls whom I saw were quite pretty, with something +of the Spanish type of beauty about them. Their +hands and feet were usually small, whereas those of some of +the women of the upper classes were of very generous proportions. +Everywhere I went I met with a “<i>gemüthlichkeit</i>,” +which is not to be found in England, go where one may; +the Irish are so friendly and jolly, even if one does not know +them.</p> + +<p>On leaving Killarney, we went to Tipperary, and stayed +at Cashel, with the Dean, Dr. MacDonnell, who told me +that there were sixteen roads leading to the town, on each +of which a murder had recently been committed. These +crimes had, however, been committed for political reasons, +for if a man did not meddle with politics, he might travel +along these same roads at night with his pockets bulging +with gold in perfect safety. The Dean, who afterwards +became a Canon of Peterborough,<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> had a pretty daughter, +a very amiable and clever girl, who is now the wife of Sir +Shirley Salt.</p> + +<p>I also stayed at Wells, an estate belonging to Mr. Mervyn +Doyne, my friend’s elder brother, who had married Lady +Frances Fitzwilliam, the eldest daughter of Earl Fitzwilliam. +The house was a very imposing one, built in the Elizabethan +style and standing in the midst of extensive grounds. Lady +Francis Doyne was a nice-looking and extremely pleasant<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"></a>[106]</span> +woman. At dinner one evening she told me the following +rather interesting story:—</p> + +<p>“I happened to dream one night in town, just before we +were leaving for Ireland, that I had lost my dressing-case. +Therefore, before starting, I told my maid to take particular +care of it during the journey. However, when we arrived +in Dublin, I left her in charge of the dressing-case for two or +three minutes at the station, and somehow she must have +put it down for an instant, since, on my returning to her, +she exclaimed: ‘Oh, my lady, the dressing-case is gone!’ +My husband had all the cars which were leaving the station +stopped, but my dressing-case was nowhere to be found. +He telegraphed to Scotland Yard, in London, but with no +success whatever, and I have never recovered it to this day. +I had at the time eight thousand pounds’ worth of jewellery +in it, besides valuable stones belonging to my ancestors, +which can never be replaced.”</p> + +<p>Speaking of London, Lady Fanny said:—</p> + +<p>“We had a house in Mount Street for the season, and one +evening, when we were giving a dinner-party, a band began +playing outside our house. It played rather well, so I sent +my footman out to the conductor to ask him to continue +playing all the time we were at dinner, and to give him a +sovereign if he would do so. But the footman brought back +the sovereign, and told me that the conductor refused to +play under five pounds.”</p> + +<p>Lady Fanny also said:—</p> + +<p>“People soon forget one in London. As a young girl, I +lived with my father in Grosvenor Square, but after my +marriage I was not in London for two years. When I +returned to town, I found that everyone had forgotten me +entirely.”</p> + +<p>Earl Fitzwilliam, Lady Fanny’s father, used to give two +big dinners in town to his tenants, to each of which fifty +guests were invited. At one of these dinners the service +was entirely of silver; at the other entirely of gold.</p> + +<p>I was invited with Jim Doyne to stay at the Shelbourne +Hotel, as the guest of Earl Fitzwilliam, for the Punchestown<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"></a>[107]</span> +Races. The first day of the races it poured with rain, and +Jim and I went to the course on an Irish car. On the way +he chaffed a man and a girl on our car whom he had never +seen before, who were engaged in a flirtation, and said to the +girl aloud:—</p> + +<p>“Don’t listen to the tales he is telling you; they are all +lies.”</p> + +<p>The girl blushed, and the man, looking very much annoyed, +answered:—</p> + +<p>“She knows I am telling her the truth.”</p> + +<p>There was a great rush to get into the stand, and Jim and +I got separated. I tendered an English five-pound note for +admission, but the man issuing the tickets said:—</p> + +<p>“I don’t take English notes, only Irish ones.”</p> + +<p>I told him I had a ticket for the Marquis of Drogheda’s +private stand, but he said that I must first pay the sovereign +entrance to the other. Suddenly, a man came forward and +said:—</p> + +<p>“I will change your note, if you will give it me or come +with me.”</p> + +<p>I followed him through the pouring rain to a tent, where +he showed me three cards, which he threw on a table, saying:—</p> + +<p>“I’ll bet you a fiver you don’t name the court card.”</p> + +<p>“But I don’t wish to bet,” I replied.</p> + +<p>“You must play,” rejoined he, “or I’ll keep your money.”</p> + +<p>I looked round for a policeman, but there was not one +anywhere near, and, while my eyes were off him, the man +disappeared. I tried to find him all day, but without success.</p> + +<p>In the evening, when I returned to the Shelbourne Hotel, +Lord Fitzwilliam’s sons, Thomas<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> and Charles Fitzwilliam, +Lord Aberdour, Jim and myself dined together in a private<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"></a>[108]</span> +room. Lord Aberdour, who is now Earl of Morton, said:—“I +was making a bet with a man when someone nearly +knocked me down and took away my watch and chain, and +in the confusion of the moment I could not discover who it +was.”</p> + +<p>“I did not come off any better,” remarked Charles +Fitzwilliam, who had been at Eton and was now in the +“Blues,” “for I was paid a bet with half a five-pound and +half a ten-pound note pinned together.”</p> + +<p>The next day, when it rained again, I went to the races, +and walked about, keeping a sharp look-out for the man who +had stolen my “fiver.” Presently I caught sight of him, and +going up to a constable, inquired if he could arrest a man +on suspicion, which he said he could. The fellow was +performing the three-card trick at the time, and was promptly +arrested. He, of course, loudly protested his innocence, +saying:—</p> + +<p>“It was not me, but the Scotsman who did it, and he +ain’t here to-day. I don’t know the young gentleman at +all.”</p> + +<p>The constable asked me if I were quite sure that this was +the man, to which I replied in the affirmative. He was then +marched off, and a head constable came and took down my +affirmation, which I signed. The three-card gentleman +called out to me:—</p> + +<p>“I’ll give you twenty pounds if you’ll let me off,” and +the constable, overhearing this, said:—</p> + +<p>“Now he has confessed to taking the note; I see it’s all +right.”</p> + +<p>During dinner at the “Shelbourne” that night I told my +friends of my adventure, when they all said:—</p> + +<p>“You must prosecute the man for the good of the public.”</p> + +<p>I decided to follow their advice, and, about a month later, +I went with Jim to Naas, where the fellow was to be tried, +and where, as Jim happened to know the county court +judge, Baron de Robeck, we were given seats on the Bench. +When the prisoner was brought in, he at once pleaded guilty, +upon which the judge sentenced him to repay the five<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"></a>[109]</span> +pounds, which he did, and to three months’ hard labour. +He was also ordered to pay the costs of the prosecution, +which came to as much as five pounds, but these I refused +to accept.</p> + +<p>At Naas we lunched with the Duke of Leinster, who +had been at Eton with us, and was then with his militia +regiment. He was much interested in my adventure, and +glad to hear of the result. At the station a man came up to +me, and telling me he was the prisoner’s solicitor, asked me +to give him some money for persuading his client to plead +guilty. But when I spoke to Jim about it, he answered:—“Tell +him to go to the devil.”</p> + +<p>And the man of law, overhearing the remark, took +himself off without more ado.</p> + +<p>I stayed some weeks longer with Jim Doyne,<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> when I +went to London for my “exam.” for the Army.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"></a>[110]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</h2> + +<p class="center">Dieppe under Prussian Rule—A Toilette by Worth—A Confirmed +Gambler</p> + +</div> + +<p>During the Franco-German War, while I was at Eton, +my parents remained in Paris, and though my father +left the city during the Commune, my mother stayed until +the very last, when she was persuaded to follow him. Towards +the end of the war I joined my parents at Dieppe, and +saw the Prussians enter the town, when eighteen soldiers +were billeted on the owner of the house we lived in. Madame +Gaillard, an American lady, the young wife of General +Gaillard, who was afterwards appointed to look after Maréchal +Bazaine when a prisoner, was with us at Dieppe. She was +a very pretty woman, and she and the Baronne van Havre +usually went with my mother to the afternoon concerts. I +took lessons on the violin from the chief violinist, whose +name was Lamoury. His brother was one of the first violoncello +players in France, and played in the orchestra at the +Conservatoire in Paris. Lamoury told me that he had +begun to learn the violin too late in life to be a virtuoso on +that instrument, as he had not begun to play it until he was +fourteen, whereas you ought to start playing at the age of +seven in order to be anything remarkable as a violinist.</p> + +<p>The English Consul at Dieppe was a Mr. Chapman, and +there were several English residents. Among them were +Edward Blount, a friend of my father, who had been at +school with Gambetta and spoke French almost better +than he did English, and a Major Boland, from Bath, who +had married a French lady, the sister of Jules Simon, one of +the Ministers then in power in Paris. Boland was in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"></a>[111]</span> +habit of depreciating the French Army and praising the +Prussians in every way. Owing to his having lived in the +same house as his brother-in-law for many years before the +war, he had had, although an Englishman, opportunities +for ascertaining the real condition of the French +Army.</p> + +<p>“I knew from the first,” he would observe, “that the +French would be defeated, and that Bazaine was a traitor, +who was playing into the hands of the Prussians all +along.”</p> + +<p>Jules Simon seemed to share his opinion of the state to +which the Empire had reduced France by embarking in this +disastrous war, for which she was unprepared, whereas +Prussia had been preparing for it for many years.</p> + +<p>Dieppe is a very charming seaside resort in the summer +months, and it was very pleasant to go to the Casino, where +the band played of an afternoon, and listen to the orchestra, +which in those days was excellent, as most of the performers +came from Paris. The Casino was near the sea, and to sit +there and watch the sea sparkling under the rays of the sun +and the snow-white sails in the distance, bathed, as evening +approached, in a rosy light, was to me a never-failing source +of pleasure. At such an hour as this Time and Space seem +to be eliminated. The incoming tide approaches with a +gentle murmur. It encircles first one spot on the sands, +then another; rests for a moment, and then continues its +advance. The sea is a symbol for us of Eternity and of our +passing away.</p> + +<p>When the Uhlans entered Dieppe, followed by the Prussian +infantry, the town was in a ferment, since no one knew +what was going to follow. All kinds of rumours were afloat, +and some people believed that a warship would bombard +the town, if the invaders met with any resistance. The +Germans requisitioned many things, with which the inhabitants +were very reluctant to supply them, and ordered +that all lights should be extinguished at 8 p.m., and that +after 10 p.m. no one should leave his house. This condition +of affairs naturally did not suit my father, and he determined<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"></a>[112]</span> +to leave Dieppe at once. But this was a difficult +matter, as to go by rail was nearly impossible, and by sea +altogether out of the question. Finally we decided to +hire a carriage and to start before daybreak, although we +were very much afraid lest we should be stopped by the +Prussians. We succeeded, however, in escaping detection +and reached Dunkerque, where we took the train for Calais, +and thence made our way to Boulogne. Here we stayed +for some days at the Hôtel des Bains, and then embarked +for Folkestone, from which we proceeded to Brighton.</p> + +<p>At Brighton, where my parents took a house facing the +sea, and not far from the Old Pier, we found Captain and +Mrs. Berkeley, who had taken a house for the season in +Regency Square; Mrs. Charles Woodforde, an aunt of my +father, who was staying there with her daughter, and Sophia +Kinglake, a sister of the author of “Eöthen,” whom +Thackeray once described as the cleverest woman he had +ever met in his life. One day, I remember calling with my +mother upon her, when she told us that she was knitting a +scarf for John Ardagh, who afterwards became General Sir +John Ardagh, and died some years ago. Shortly after we +arrived, a very pretty, graceful and beautifully-dressed girl +entered the room. She was a Miss Gordon, daughter of a +General Gordon, and, in the course of conversation, said to +me:—</p> + +<p>“I always get my dresses from Worth, and sometimes +I go and stay with his family at their country-place in France. +I generally stop with them from three weeks to a month, +and return to England with a fine lot of dresses. Worth +would be horrified were he to see me to-day, because I am +wearing gloves which do not match my dress. Once I put +on grey gloves with a costume of an unusual colour, upon +which he told me that if I ever did so again, he would make +for me no more. So, you see, I have to study his taste +in the matter of toilettes most carefully.”</p> + +<p>I inquired whether Worth charged very high prices for +his confections.</p> + +<p>“It is according to what you consider high,” she replied.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"></a>[113]</span> +“He charges from forty pounds for a dress, and will not +make one under that price; but it is always perfectly finished +and lined with silk. For ball-dresses he charges more. I +get both my morning-gowns and ball-toilettes from him, +for I consider that he is the only man who can make dresses +which are worth wearing.”</p> + +<p>I asked if Laferrière were not very good, as I had heard +so much about him in Paris.</p> + +<p>“Yes, he is,” she said, “but Worth I consider still +better.”</p> + +<p>Miss Gordon was a girl of about eighteen, with a wonderfully +clear complexion, brown hair, blue eyes, and rather +good features. She had also a beautiful figure, for which +reason it must have been quite a pleasure for a dressmaker +to make for her. She was wearing on this occasion a blue +costume, with a good deal of <i>passementerie</i> on it, and very +pretty buttons in enamel, a white petticoat with flounces +of lace, stockings <i>à jour</i>, and shoes with Louis Quinze +heels. Her hat matched her dress, and the <i>ensemble</i> would +have been a dream, had not her gloves, which were brown, +spoiled—as she herself admitted—an otherwise perfect +toilette.</p> + +<p>While at Brighton, I used frequently to go on the Pier +with my mother to listen to the band, which, however, +played very badly. Captain and Mrs. Berkeley often came +there too, and would sit with us until my father came +to fetch us to lunch. Captain Dorrien was also at Brighton +at this time, and occasionally some of the old society of +Homburg would meet on the Pier, and talk over their +experiences at roulette and trente-et-quarante.</p> + +<p>“I say, Fred,” inquired Dorrien one day of my father, +“how about your infallible system? What was it? Let +me see: one louis <i>à cheval</i> between zero and two, one +between twelve and fifteen, one between twenty-six and +twenty-nine, and one between thirty-two and thirty-five. +Isn’t that it?”</p> + +<p>“Yes, my dear fellow,” answered my father, “and you +double the amount if you lose.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"></a>[114]</span></p> + +<p>“Oh!” exclaimed Berkeley, “that game is a martingale, +and it nearly broke me.”</p> + +<p>“Then, old fellow,” said my father, “you didn’t play it +the right way.”</p> + +<p>“Oh, yes, I did, and in very much the right way, for I +lost all I had....”</p> + +<p>“I wish I were at Homburg to try it again,” continued +my father.</p> + +<p>“You would only lose again,” said Berkeley.</p> + +<p>“I am sorry that I ever played there at all,” said +Dorrien.</p> + +<p>“So am I,” exclaimed Berkeley, “but there is an attraction +there that somehow one cannot resist.”</p> + +<p>“I feel I should win if I played at Monte Carlo,” said my +father.</p> + +<p>“You always felt like that at Homburg,” remarked +Dorrien. “You said, if you remember, one evening, that +you felt like winning, and you lost heavily.”</p> + +<p>“But I won afterwards—three hundred louis.”</p> + +<p>“My dear fellow, you forget how much you lost. You +can talk like that to people who know nothing about the +game, but as for me, who have lost thirty thousand +pounds at it, you cannot make me believe that white is +black.”</p> + +<p>“Can’t I?” said my father, laughing.</p> + +<p>“No, you can’t, and you are foolish to try to make yourself +believe that you can ever win at that game.”</p> + +<p>“I agree with you entirely,” observed Berkeley.</p> + +<p>“I always hope to win back what I have lost,” said my +father.</p> + +<p>“That you will never do at roulette and trente-et-quarante,” +said Dorrien.</p> + +<p>“Don’t you play at all now then?” asked my father.</p> + +<p>“Yes, at baccarat and the Stock Exchange.”</p> + +<p>“That is as bad,” remarked my father.</p> + +<p>“I am not sure it isn’t worse,” said Dorrien, laughing.</p> + +<p>“Quite as bad,” exclaimed Berkeley, “but I do the +same thing.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"></a>[115]</span></p> + +<p>“I shall have a try this winter at Monte Carlo,” said my +father.</p> + +<p>“You have had one lesson; why do you want to burn +your fingers again?” asked Dorrien.</p> + +<p>“If you do,” remarked Berkeley, “<i>vous y perdrez vos pas, +mon cher ami</i>.”</p> + +<p>And then they talked about other things.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"></a>[116]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<p class="center">The Princess von Metternich—The Lady of the Luxembourg +Gardens</p> + +</div> + +<p>Paris was very dull in the way of entertainments and +parties after the Commune, and people spoke of +hardly anything but the siege. Mrs. Healy, an aunt of +Viscount Dillon, who lived in the same house as my parents +in the Rue d’Albe, her <i>appartement</i> being on the <i>entresol</i>, +had remained there throughout the siege and the Commune, +and told us that she had always contrived to get everything +she wanted in the way of eatables, though she had had to +pay an enormously high price for them; twenty francs +a pound, for instance, for butter, which she obtained as +well as eggs and meat, and consequently was never obliged +to dine off a mouse or any delicacy of that description, like +most of the people in Paris. Theobald, Lord Dillon, often +came to see his aunt, and one day he related to us how he +had become acquainted with Sims Reeves, and how he had +been the means of the latter continuing his studies at Milan +as a singer. It was entirely through Lord Dillon’s generosity +that Sims Reeves became so well known, as he had advanced +him a large sum of money. Albani was also first brought +into notice in England by Lord Dillon, who was so enchanted +with her beautiful voice that he soon made known to everybody +the “star” he had discovered. Albani was a frequent +guest at his beautiful country-seat, Ditchley Park, for he +and Lady Dillon not only admired her most exquisite voice, +but her very charming personality as well.</p> + +<p>The last time I met Lord Dillon was on the pier at +Brighton, when I happened to be on leave from Aldershot,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"></a>[117]</span> +where my regiment was then stationed; and, I remember, +I introduced Lord Headley to him, at the former’s request. +The two noblemen discussed politics, upon which subject +they did not agree. Later the same day, I introduced two +young officers to Lord Dillon, as he told me he was very +fond of young men, he himself being then an old man. The +officers in question were both Old Etonians and attached +to my regiment. One was Richard Sutton, a son of Sir +Richard Sutton, who died before his father; the other, +the present Sir Charles E. C. Hartopp, a nephew of the Duke +of Norfolk, who had just been staying at Arundel with his +uncle.</p> + +<p>I happened to meet Whitehead, a correspondent of the +<i>Daily Telegraph</i>, who had remained in Paris during the +siege. I asked him whether he was not at all alarmed at +the time, to which he replied that he did not know what fear +meant, and had never been afraid of anything in his life.</p> + +<p>I was still at Eton, but came to Paris for my holidays, +and one evening went to a ball, at which I recollect the +Princess von Metternich, wife of the Austrian Ambassador, +was present, and that she left after remaining only half +an hour. Sir Edward Malet, who was then First Secretary +at the British Embassy, led the cotillion. It was a terribly +dull affair, and I was quite glad to get away. Evidently, +the Princess von Metternich saw at a glance what it was +like, and only waited until her carriage returned, or no +doubt she would have left even sooner. The Princess +spoke English just like an Englishwoman, and when she +spoke in German interlarded every sentence with French +words, as all the Austrian nobility do. She had plenty of +<i>esprit</i>, and when I saw her in recent years in Vienna, she +always used to make use of the late Baron Nathan de Rothschild +to assist her in collecting money for the poor of the +city, and—some people were malicious enough to say—for +herself as well. She had such a way of asking for charitable +contributions that she scarcely ever met with a refusal, and +never indeed from “her little Jew,” as she was accustomed +to call Baron Nathan.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"></a>[118]</span></p> + +<p>After I left Eton, I returned to Paris, and, as it was +summer, I often walked in the Luxembourg Gardens, where +it was very pleasant to sit beneath the trees and read a +book. One day, I happened to be sitting near a fountain +which contained some gold fish. On the same seat sat a +young girl with fair hair, who appeared entirely absorbed +in a book which she was reading, and from which she did +not raise her eyes for a moment. I asked her what was +the name of the novel in which she was so interested. She +answered that it was not a novel at all, but a serious modern +French work on philosophy. And she handed it to me. +I was not a little curious to know why she read such books, +and questioned her on the matter, when she replied that +they were the only ones capable of distracting her thoughts, +and that, as her own life had been like a novel, she avoided +such stories, for they usually reminded her of her own +experiences, and made her sadder than ever. I inquired if +she would mind letting me know her own history, and, at the +same time, studied her more attentively than before. She +was a fair girl, with blue eyes with long black eyelashes, a +very clear complexion and long wavy hair. Her features +were small and rather regular, and she had very fine teeth +and a beautiful figure. She was dressed in deep mourning, +and her petticoat was trimmed with Valenciennes lace, of +which I could just catch a glimpse when she raised her +tiny foot occasionally. She acceded to my request, and +related to me the following story:—</p> + +<p>“I was living with my parents in the country, when an +aunt of mine asked me to come to Paris, saying that she +would have me taught dressmaking. On my arrival in +Paris, I went to live with my aunt and became an apprentice +at a dressmaker’s shop, which had a number of customers +among the ladies of the Faubourg Saint-Germain. One +morning, when I was on my way to business, I noticed +that a gentleman was following me, but it was not until +some days later that I made his acquaintance, when he told +me that he had fallen in love with me, and offered to furnish +an <i>appartement</i> for me, and to give me three louis a day<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"></a>[119]</span> +to spend as I pleased. Soon afterwards I left my aunt, +and not only did this gentleman carry out his promise, but +gave me my own servants and carriage and horses. As +I had not received very much education, I had various +masters, one to teach me to speak and write French correctly, +another for the piano, a third for singing. As for reading, +I never had any taste for the rubbish which most girls affect, +but studied the works of Racine, Corneille, Rousseau and +Voltaire.<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> I gradually developed a passion for philosophy, +and can say that I have read most of the works of the great +philosophers, both ancient and modern, in French. I +enjoyed my life thoroughly, and, as I was only sixteen and +quite without experience of the world, I was foolish enough +to believe that my good fortune would continue; and it is +needless to say that I took no thought for the future, but +lived only for the present. My friend was a very wealthy +Mexican and quite young; perhaps a little older than you +are, but not very much. He seemed perfectly devoted to +me, satisfying all my caprices and spending a great deal of +money on me, quite apart from what he gave me for myself. +I was very fond of going to the Théâtre-Français, where he +would always take a box and accompany me. We also +went very often to the Grand Opéra, and occasionally to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"></a>[120]</span> +smaller theatres, for the latter of which, however, I had but +little taste. On Sundays, generally after I had been to Mass—for, +notwithstanding my predilection for philosophy, I +still retained a remnant of faith in the Catholic religion—I +drove in the Bois de Boulogne, sometimes alone, at others +accompanied by my friend. In every respect, my life was +most enjoyable, and I had no cares of any kind. This state +of affairs lasted for a year, during which my friend was most +devoted to me, and we never had an angry word with each +other. He was kindness itself in every conceivable way, +while I was perfectly devoted to him. Suddenly, one day, +when I had been out alone shopping, I saw on my return +home a note addressed to me lying on the table in the salon. +Recognizing my friend’s handwriting, I tore it open immediately. +It contained only a few lines, which, however, I +shall never forget so long as I live. Indeed, so engraven on +my mind are they, that, were I to forget everything else, I +should never forget them!”</p> + +<p>On saying this, she suddenly burst into tears, and sobbed +so violently that it was not for some little time that she was +able to continue. Then she said:—</p> + +<p>“You will forgive me, for my grief is almost too great for +me to endure. Imagine my astonishment and dismay when +I read this note, which had been hurriedly written:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“‘<i>Ma chérie,—Je suis forcé de partir immédiatement pour +la Mexique; je n’ai pas même le temps de venir te dire àdieu.</i>’<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p> + +</div> + +<p>“I could scarcely believe my own eyes, and read those +lines again and again, sobbing all the while, and incapable +of realizing what had happened. I had only a few hundred +francs left, all the rest having been spent; and, to make a +long story short, I had very soon to leave my <i>appartement</i> +and return to my aunt. I have been with her now a week, +and I need not tell you how very hard I find it to return to +work, for which I feel I am no longer fit. Besides, my aunt<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"></a>[121]</span> +is continually reproaching me, and treats me much worse +than she did before. I cannot stand it any longer....”</p> + +<p>At this point, she stopped and was silent for a while. Then +she suddenly asked me if I could assist her as her friend had +done, adding that she was not one of those girls who could +love several men. I told her how I was situated, and she +said she would come to a restaurant in the Quartier Latin +with me and take some refreshment. We went, I remember, +to some restaurant near the Luxembourg Gardens, and, when +we were alone, she told me that it was a pity that I could not +afford to make her my <i>maîtresse attitrée</i>, as she thought I +might perhaps succeed in making her forget her Mexican. +Although I did not aspire to have such warm blood in my +veins, yet perhaps she liked the contrast. She wept bitterly, +and when she left me, said:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Vous avez beaucoup de cœur</i>; and, if I meet you again, +it will be in three days’ time in the Luxembourg Gardens. +If I do not come, you will know that I have done as I told you +before I should do—put an end to my existence. There is +nothing else for me to do, and <i>le bon Dieu me le pardonnera</i>.”</p> + +<p>I went to the Luxembourg Gardens three days later, and +sat on the same seat, but, though I waited until it grew dark, +there was no sign of her. I returned to the Gardens every +day for weeks and weeks afterwards, more out of habit than +for any other reason, and thought of her and wondered what +had become of her all the time I was there. I did not even +know her Christian name, but I rather fancied it was Mariette. +The consequence was that I was seized with a sudden fit of +melancholy, which I was imprudent enough to give way to, +and was continually reading Goethe’s <i>Die Leiden des jungen +Werthers</i>, until I felt convinced that I should end my life +in the same way as she had done. For, though I never heard +anything more about her, I made quite sure that she had +acted as she had threatened she would.</p> + +<p>Shortly after this, I decided to go to Bonn on the Rhine, +to study at the University; and Miss Kathleen O’Meara, the +author of “The Salon of Madame Mohl,” who was a young +girl at that time, gave me a letter to the wife of Professor<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"></a>[122]</span> +Dr. Binz, a sister of General Salis-Schwabe. I was then very +anxious to enter the Austrian Army, and tried very hard to +do so. Through the kindness of Mr. Somerset Beaumont, of +the Foreign Office, my request was put before Prince Richard +von Metternich and Baron von Hübner; and the latter, who +was at that time Ambassador in Paris, informed me, when I +saw him at the Embassy, that I should have to become an +Austrian subject. This was easy enough; but the examination +was not, as since the War of 1866 it had been made much +more severe. It was in pursuance of this intention to enter +the Austrian Army that I made up my mind to study at the +University at Bonn. My father was very much against my +doing so, but I eventually prevailed upon him to let me go, +though he warned me that I must put up with any evil consequences +that might result from this <i>coup de tête</i> of mine.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"></a>[123]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<p class="hanging">Bonn—An Anecdote of Beethoven—The King’s Hussars—The Howard +Vyses—A German Professor on England—Domesticated Habits of German +Girls—Professor Delbrück</p> + +</div> + +<p>On my arrival at Bonn, I stayed at the Hôtel Rheineck, +which commanded a splendid view of the distant +mountains. Here I made the acquaintance of the late Mr. +Ranyard, the celebrated astronomer, who told me that the +well-known author “A. L. O. E.” was his aunt. Mr. Ranyard +was also stopping at the “Rheineck,” and at the midday +<i>table d’hôte</i> sat next to a Frau Phillip, a German lady from +Frankfurt, who was rather stout, but good-looking. He +made love to her, and, though he spoke German very badly, +she appeared to understand him. At four o’clock we used +to sit out on the verandah of the hôtel, which overlooked the +Rhine, and take our coffee there, with an excellent <i>Kuchen</i>, +for which Germany is famous. Some days after my arrival +at Bonn, Ranyard, who was flirting with Frau Phillip, quite +forgot that he had to catch the boat to Cologne, and missed +it. He was quite in despair at this, as he had not enough +money with him to stay any longer at Bonn. However, the +proprietor of the hotel said he would lend him some, which +he could repay him when he arrived in England. Ranyard +accordingly arranged to stay on a day or two longer at Bonn, +as the hotel-keeper was confiding enough to advance him +£5. I mention this incident to show how kind Germans are +at times, though, of course, there are exceptions everywhere.</p> + +<p>I called on Professor Dr. Binz and his wife, who lived in a +pretty villa with a delightful garden attached to it. The +latter’s sister, Miss Salis-Schwabe, and her brother, who was +an officer in the 7th Dragoon Guards, were staying with her<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"></a>[124]</span> +on a visit, and I went for several rides with them. Miss +Salis-Schwabe was a nice-looking girl, with a considerable +fortune of her own, and lived chiefly in England. She +afterwards married the late Sir Frank Lockwood, the well-known +Q.C.; and I was told by the Hon. Mrs. Henry +Orde-Powlett, who knew her, that she was always very +disappointed if her husband did not come home every day +with fifty guineas as “refreshers” in his pocket.</p> + +<p>Frau Professor Binz told me that she knew of a Professor +Dr. Andrä, who had a pretty daughter, so that his house +would be just the very one for me to live at; and I +accordingly made arrangements to take rooms there, with +board.</p> + +<p>Fräulein Margarethe Andrä was a rather pretty girl, a +blonde, with blue eyes, but she was, I thought, somewhat +insipid, and very strait-laced. She was well read and a free-thinker, +like her father, who never went to any church. +Professor Dr. Andrä was very clever, and, indeed, some +people said he was the cleverest of the professors at Bonn +University. I remember him telling me about his wife, +whom he had recently lost. She knew, according to him, +exactly what he was going to say before he opened his mouth, +and had also foretold many events before there was a chance +of their happening, in a marvellous manner. I asked Andrä +if he would not like to see his wife again.</p> + +<p>“No,” he replied. “I loved her very much, but I have +no desire to live again, and, what is more, I am sure that +after this existence there is no other. And it is much better +so.”</p> + +<p>He lectured on Anthropology and Mineralogy, two sciences +in which I took no interest. I attended the lectures of +Geheimrath von Sybel, the famous historian, who, Dr. +Andrä said, was a Republican at heart, but pretended not +to be, in order to keep in with Bismarck, who since 1870 had +been all powerful in Germany. Von Sybel was one of the +finest lecturers I ever heard. He contrived to make his +subject most interesting, however dry it might otherwise +have appeared; and his lectures were always crowded with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"></a>[125]</span> +students, whereas those of some of the other professors +were attended by very few, as it was entirely optional which +lectures the students at the University attended.</p> + +<p>Bonn is the birthplace of Beethoven, a fine statue of whom +was erected in 1845 on the Poppelsdorfer Allee. Grillparzer +writes in his diary for 1843:—</p> + +<p>“The windows of my grandmother’s house faced the +courtyard of the dwelling of a peasant called Flehberger, who +bore a bad name. This Flehberger had a very pretty +daughter, called Lisa, whose reputation was also not of the +best. Beethoven appeared to be much interested in the +girl, and I can see him as he came up the little street, dragging +his white handkerchief after him, until he came to a stop at +Flehberger’s house, where the frivolous beauty was standing +on a wagon filled with hay, working with a pitchfork, and +laughing the while. Beethoven stood silent and looked at +her, until the girl, whose taste lay more in the direction of +peasant boys, made him angry by rude words or by obstinately +ignoring his presence. Then he walked away, but +did not fail, the next time he passed that way, to stop and +look into the courtyard. Indeed, his interest in the girl +went so far that, when her father was arrested and put in +prison for being concerned in a drunken brawl in the village, +Beethoven endeavoured to rescue him, and narrowly escaped +having to share the captivity of the man whom he had so +unwisely protected.”</p> + +<p>It is said that Beethoven wept when his “Overture to +Leonora” was first played at Vienna, where it met with no +success. He only passed his youth at Bonn, and then went +to Vienna, where the Archduke Rudolf, Prince Kinsky and +Prince Lobkowitz gave him an annuity of 4,000 florins +(nearly £350) for life, in order that he might devote his time +entirely to music, free from all financial cares. The fact that +the same provision was never made for Mozart, who was an +Austrian by birth, makes one think of the proverb: “<i>Nemo +propheta in patria</i>.” Grillparzer, Austria’s greatest poet, +wrote the funeral speech read at Beethoven’s tomb in Vienna +on March 27th, 1827, and on May 1st, 1880, a statue to his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"></a>[126]</span> +memory was erected there, near the garden of the Hof Burg, +on the Ringstrasse.</p> + +<p>Captain Horrocks, whom my father knew very well, was +then living at Bonn with his family. His brother held an +appointment at the Court of the Grand Duke of Hesse. +Captain Horrocks once wrote a three-volume novel, which +my mother tried to read, but said that she never could get +beyond the first volume. She lent the first volume of the +book to several of her friends, but not one of them ever asked +for the second and third. When I mentioned Captain +Horrocks’s name to my mother, she said:—</p> + +<p>“When I think of him, I cannot imagine how he could have +written such a dull book. I have never yet come across any +one who has had the courage to read the whole of his novel.”</p> + +<p>Horrocks was, nevertheless, an amusing man, who had +a great deal of dry wit. He had several very pretty daughters, +the eldest one being considered the belle of Bonn at that +time. I remember his remarking to me once that a poor +man could never dress well, as he always bought cheap +clothes, and they never lasted any time. “Depend upon it, +whatever is cheap is bad,” he always used to say.</p> + +<p>The regiment stationed at Bonn was the King’s Hussars. +It was commanded by Prince Reuss, and there were seven +princes amongst its officers. I knew the two Princes Bentheim, +and Counts von der Goltz, Metternich, Moltke and +Bernstorff. The last-named was a gay young officer, who +spoke English like an Englishman. I saw a good deal of +him. His father had been Prussian Ambassador in England, +and he had a brother serving in the Garde Kürassier Regiment +in Berlin. Prince Reuss was very severe with his officers, +and insisted that, when they attended a ball, they should +wear their swords the whole time, except when actually +dancing. On one occasion, an officer, who had omitted to +replace his sword after a dance, was put under arrest for a +week and confined to his quarters. Bernstorff, so he told +me, once entered a tavern of bad reputation in Cologne in +plain clothes, as he did not like to go to such a place in +uniform, and on his return to Bonn was placed under arrest<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"></a>[127]</span> +for a week. Notwithstanding the severity of the punishment +meted out for minor offences against discipline, very +little, if any, notice was taken when officers in uniform +became intoxicated at balls. I can remember attending a +ball at the Royal Hôtel at Bonn, at which several officers +of the King’s Hussars were present wearing their dark blue +uniform with gold lace, as they were never allowed to attend +dances in plain clothes. One of them insisted on dancing, +though he was so intoxicated that he could scarcely stand, +and the others were highly amused at his efforts to dance +with a lady, who must have been in entire ignorance of the +state her partner was in.</p> + +<p>When the King’s Hussars gave a ball at Bonn, which they +did once every winter, they only invited the officers of the +7th Kürassiers from Cologne, and not a single infantry officer +from the Line regiments at either place. Some of the English +at Bonn were invited to this ball, but I cannot say that it +came up to one’s expectations. In the first place, it was a +terribly stiff affair. The officers stood in one part of the ball-room; +the ladies, mostly seated, occupied the other part, +and at the end of a dance, an officer generally conducted his +partner back to her seat and left her with her lady friends. +The supper was not at all a bad one, and there was plenty +of champagne, but the guests had to pay for what they +ate and drank. However, it was considered so great an +honour to be invited to this ball that no one grumbled; in +fact, they appeared to think it quite natural that they should +have to pay for their refreshments.</p> + +<p>The King’s Hussars was regarded as one of the crack +Prussian regiments, and undoubtedly some of its officers +were of very high social standing. But by no means all +of these officers were wealthy, and I was told that the Princes +Bentheim had only £150 a year each, besides their pay. +The officers generally rode in the Poppelsdorfer Allee of a +morning, making their horses perform <i>la haute école</i>, as +though they were at a circus. Only one corps of students +mixed at all with the officers. This was the well-known +Borussia Corps, the members of which—the <i>Borussen</i>—wore<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"></a>[128]</span> +a white cap somewhat similar in shape to that worn +by French officers. This corps was composed entirely of +members of the Prussian nobility, most of them being counts +and barons, and they did not associate at all with any of the +other student corps. They fought duels with the <i>Schläger</i>, +and got cut about the face, but the more they were disfigured, +the more pleased they appeared to be. Some of the <i>Borussen</i> +joined the King’s Hussars afterwards, but what became +of their scars I do not know, for, strange to say, I have never +seen any officers with these ugly marks on their faces. Perhaps, +after a time, the scars disappear; I can think of no +other explanation, for all the corps students are forced to +fight duels.</p> + +<p>I can remember Dr. Andrä once showing me a tiny shop +at Bonn, above which the royal arms of a certain country +were displayed, and when I inquired the reason of this, he +told me the following story, which I give in his own +words:—</p> + +<p>“When the heir to a certain principality was a student +at Bonn, he happened to enter this shop, in which there was +a very pretty girl serving. The latter, who pretended +ignorance of his identity, invited the Prince to come and see +her one evening. The Prince went, and a violent flirtation +was in progress, when the door opened, and the owner of +the shop entered. This person affected the utmost astonishment +and indignation, and, informing the Prince that the +girl was his wife, threatened that, unless the would-be destroyer +of his domestic happiness were prepared to write him +out there and then a cheque for several thousand thalers, +he would make the affair public. The Prince, anxious to +avoid a scandal, complied with his demand, and, moreover, +gave him permission to display the arms of his country over +his shop-front as supplying His Highness with goods. After +the Prince had left Bonn, the cunning rascal sent the girl, +who was not his wife at all, back to Cologne, from which she +had come, it was said, for the express purpose of assisting +the shopkeeper to entrap the Prince.”</p> + +<p>I used to go to the “Kneipe,” where the corps students<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"></a>[129]</span> +assembled, with a young American named Howard Vyse and +his younger brother.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> We always went of an evening, +when songs, principally “Studenten Lieder,” were sung, +and there was heavy drinking. On one occasion, the younger +Vyse, on coming out into the night air, after attending one +of these entertainments, told me that he felt so queer that +he could not find his way home, and asked if I could put +him up for the night. I took him to Dr. Andrä’s house, and +he slept in my sitting-room. Next morning, the professor +inquired why I had brought Vyse home with me, and I told +him the reason, quoting, at the same time, the words of +Nietzsche:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Alles ist erlaubt, nichts ist verboten.</i>”</p> + +<p>To which he replied that such were not his views; that he +considered that everyone ought to lead a very moral life; +that it was wrong to get intoxicated, and that, although he +never entered a church, he lived as moral a life as many +religious people, who often professed to be better than they +really were.</p> + +<p>Professor Andrä was an intimate friend of the famous +author, Berthold Auerbach, and once, when he was staying +with Auerbach, the latter was engaged in writing his celebrated +novel, <i>Das Landhaus am Rhein</i>. One day, Andrä<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"></a>[130]</span> +asked him to walk to Poppelsdorf, where the professor was +going to lecture. But he declined, saying that to do so would +put some of his ideas for his novel out of his head, as it was +essential for him to keep constantly in mind what he intended +to write about. Andrä showed me the house on the +Rhine which Auerbach had described in his novel, and one +day took me there to visit a retired merchant, who, after making +a fortune in America, had bought this beautiful villa in the +Koblentzer Strasse, which had a very fine garden leading +down to the Rhine. Andrä told me that he detested novels; +nevertheless, one day, when I happened to be reading <i>Auf +der Höhe</i>, by Auerbach, he asked me to lend it him, and, +after reading it, said</p> + +<p>“After all, it is very well written, and I am pleased with +it; some of the ideas are uncommonly good, and the plot +is ingenious.”</p> + +<p>Excellenz von Dechen, Minister of the Rhine Provinces, +told me that Andrä might have occupied Bismarck’s position,<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> +but that he was too honest a man to change his opinions. +Andrä told me that Germany was far more fitted than France +for a republican form of government, and that, if the War +of 1870 had had a different issue, Germany would have been +a republic, as France is now. He entertained a poor opinion +of England and the English, whom he considered the most +selfish and self-opinionated nation in Europe, and years +behind Germany in intelligence. He held that Darwin, +whose works he had read, had merely been the first to publish +the ideas of a well-known German professor; and he himself<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"></a>[131]</span> +had lectured upon Darwin’s theory,<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> in which he was a firm +believer, long before he had ever heard of him.</p> + +<p>Andrä told me that at all the dinners which he attended, +as a professor of the University, he took precedence of all +the officers of the King’s Hussars and of any titled person +who had not some higher State appointment than he held. +When I told him that this would not have been the case in +England, he smiled and said:—</p> + +<p>“In your country, with your antiquated laws, how can +you expect so much civilization as in Germany? The +English have a great deal to learn, and it will be a very long +while before their barbarous customs are knocked on the head. +So far as civilization is concerned, England is in a worse +condition than France, and, Heaven knows, France has +yet a good deal to learn.”</p> + +<p>In his opinion, Bismarck was a man of great intellect, +but without any conscience whatever. Moltke, he told +me, was quite positive that Germany would defeat France +before the war had begun, and he was a man “<i>welcher +schweigt in sieben Sprachen</i>,” as he rarely ever spoke. +Moltke’s son, afterwards Field-Marshal Count von Moltke, +was then in the King’s Hussars at Bonn, and I knew him +very well, but, save for indulging in some amorous +escapades and getting very much into debt, he did not distinguish +himself, though I have no doubt he deserved the +Iron Cross which he obtained in the War of 1870, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"></a>[132]</span> +most of the officers of the King’s Hussars. Of Field-Marshal +Freiherr von der Goltz it was said:—</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“Freiherr von der Goltz,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Von seiner Dummheit ist er stoltz.”<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></div> + </div> +</div> +</div> + +<p>I often would ask Andrä what books I ought to read, and +one of the first he recommended was Hauff’s <i>Lichtenstein</i>, +a charming romance in the style of Sir Walter Scott. Heine +was a great favourite with Andrä, and he could repeat his +<i>Lieder</i> off by heart.<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> Goethe he ranked far above Schiller, +and considered the first part of <i>Faust</i> vastly superior to the +second. He had a very high opinion of Lessing’s works in +general. Of modern authors, he recommended Karl von +Holtei’s <i>Die Vagabunden</i>, which was, he told me, quite +a classic, and I have read it again and again with pleasure. +It is somewhat in the style of <i>la Vie de Bohème</i>, by Mürger, +but I prefer it to the French work. In comparing Lesage +with Scott, Victor Hugo seems to think more highly of +the latter; but Andrä considered that <i>Gil Blas</i> would +outlive all Scott’s novels, which was also the opinion of +Grillparzer. It was through Andrä that I became a supporting +member of the “Verein zur Verbreitung naturwissenschaftlicher +Kenntnisse in Wien,” which I have been for +many years. The ill-fated Crown Prince Rudolf was formerly +the Protector of this society, a position which was held +recently by the late Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir +to the Austrian throne.</p> + +<p>Andrä had held a post in Siebenbürgen, in Hungary, under +the Archduke Johann, for some years before his appointment +to be a professor at Bonn. He was very fond of the Hungarians +and told me that he and some friends were one evening +at a restaurant in a village in Hungary, where three or four +musicians played so delightfully that his party kept giving +them money to continue, and that he was sure that they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"></a>[133]</span> +went on playing until about five o’clock the following morning. +He was passionately fond of music, and I would often +ask him to play me some Austrian marches and waltzes on +the piano, which he did with the true Austrian spirit. His +daughter never played the piano, telling me that unless you +can play exceptionally well, it is better to leave it alone. +I wish all English girls were of her opinion.</p> + +<p>German girls are as a rule very clever, and have a good +deal to say for themselves. They are highly sentimental, +far more so than English girls, and can generally read French +and English books easily enough, though I found that they +could speak very little of these languages, as they had very +little practice and few occasions to do so. Every girl in +Germany can do the most difficult needlework, embroidery +and knitting wonderfully well, in addition to which she +thoroughly understands how to cook a good dinner. Fräulein +Andrä generally cooked the dinner herself, though she had +servants, one of whom was a sort of cook. I remember that, +in more recent years, at the Hôtel Neckar at Heidelberg, +I caught sight of a pretty, graceful young girl wearing an +apron going into the hôtel kitchen, and, on my asking who she +was, I was told that she was the daughter of a count, and +engaged to be married to a young count of high family, but +before her marriage she was required to learn cooking for +six months at this hôtel.</p> + +<p>There were at this time several English families whom +I knew residing at Bonn, among them being Captain and +Mrs. Bean, who were living there to educate their children, +and to whose house I was often invited to tea. I recollect +once Mrs. Bean telling me and some other friends of hers +that she intended going to a masked ball dressed as a gipsy +fortune-teller, with packs of cards and bells sewn over her +costume. On my arrival at the ball, I had no difficulty in +recognizing this dress, but the voice of the wearer seemed +very different from that of Mrs. Bean, and it transpired that +the fortune-teller was Captain Bean, who, as his wife found +herself unable to go to the ball, owing to a severe cold, had +assumed her costume and come instead. He intrigued a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"></a>[134]</span> +great many people who were there, telling them their fortunes +and more about themselves than they cared to know, +and got a good deal of amusement out of his impersonation, +no one but myself having the least idea who he was the +whole time.</p> + +<p>There were also two sons of Peabody, the millionaire, at +Bonn. The name they were known by was George, and one +of them was married and had two very pretty daughters. +The Georges were quite unaware who their father was until +after Peabody’s death, when they were angry at only being +left two thousand pounds a year each, the bulk of Peabody’s +enormous fortune having been bequeathed to charities.</p> + +<p>The Carnival was very amusing for young people, as +everyone had to be disguised and masked during the three +days it lasted, and this custom afforded a good deal of fun. +Besides, every house was thrown open, and we entered the +houses of different people whom we knew with our masks on, +and partook of tea and cakes without being recognized. The +students, and, indeed, most young men, wore a blue blouse +and white kid gloves, and a mask, over which a blue cap with +a red tassel was worn. Some of the English girls at Bonn +asked me to get up a ball, but only the bachelors would +have anything to do with it. I arranged with the proprietor +of the Rheineck Hotel that the ball should be given there, +and he prepared his large dining-room for the dancing and +a room adjoining it for the supper. The supper was to be +provided at so much a head, wine being extra, as is the +general custom in Germany. The members of the committee +wore red, white and blue rosettes in their buttonholes. +About sixty or seventy people came to this ball, including +the officers of the King’s Hussars, who, of course, were +present in uniform, and it went off very well, as it was +conducted on English lines, and was a much more free and +easy affair than the average German ball. The supper +was a very passable one, and a great deal of wine was consumed, +particularly sparkling Moselle and champagne, so +the company was pretty merry. Miss Edith Horrocks was +the belle of the ball. She danced chiefly with a young Baron<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a>[135]</span> +von Plessen, an officer in the King’s Hussars, whom she +afterwards married, though, as there was not much money +on either side, the young officer’s father, who was a general +of cavalry, at first made some difficulties. It was five +o’clock in the morning before the last guests had taken their +departure.</p> + +<p>During the winter several small dances were given by +different English families, and these I generally attended. +I also went to some German balls, but, as there were no +English present except myself, and they were conducted +in a very stiff and formal manner, I cannot say that I derived +much pleasure from them, apart from the dancing itself, of +which I was then very fond.</p> + +<p>At Von Sybel’s lectures I made the acquaintance of a +young man named Hans Delbrück, whom I liked very +much indeed. He afterwards became a university professor, +and was imprisoned some years ago for having expressed +certain political views which were not in accordance with +those of the “All Highest.” He is now Professor of History +at the University of Berlin. Some little time before the +War he was interviewed by the correspondent of the <i>Daily +Mail</i>, when he gave his opinion about the possibility of a +war between Great Britain and Germany.</p> + +<p>During the spring and summer there was very little going +on at Bonn, with the exception of steam-boat excursions up +and down the Rhine. For the residents, the winter is the +season, but the climate at that time of year is no better +than in England; indeed, it is perhaps even worse than in +some English towns, as in the morning there are often thick +fogs rising from the river. Living at Bonn is cheap—cheaper +than at Wiesbaden or Frankfurt, to say nothing +of Homburg, which is far more expensive and much more +pleasant in summer. But there are many worse places +than Bonn in the winter, so far as amusements are concerned.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"></a>[136]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<p class="hanging">The Countess Czerwinska—The Countess Broel Plater—Mlle. de Laval—The +Duchesse de Grammont—An Absent-Minded Gentleman—Dusauty, the +Fencing Master—The Marquis of Anglesey—Charming Venezuelans—Miss +Fanny Parnell</p> + +</div> + +<p>After finishing my studies at Bonn, I returned to +Paris and rejoined my parents. I was very happy +in Paris, of which I have always been very fond; but what +I missed there chiefly at that time was the companionship of +young fellows of my own age. This reminds me of what +Jim Doyne once said to me when he came to visit me +there:—</p> + +<p>“I should like Paris better than London, if I could only +fill the place with my English friends, and send some of these +Frenchmen to London instead.”</p> + +<p>I often experienced this very same feeling in Paris. It +was very rarely that I met a Frenchman of my own age that +I cared for, as I did for some English and Americans. Once +at the Opéra Comique I happened to sit in the stalls next +a young Frenchman, who was very pleasant, and whom I +got to know well afterwards. This was the Vicomte Frédéric +de Kilmaine, who, though of Irish extraction, could not +speak a single word of English. A few days after I had +made the Vicomte’s acquaintance I went for a drive with +him in his pretty victoria to the Bois de Boulogne, where +we had some refreshments at one of the cafés there before +returning to Paris. He often afterwards came to take me for +a drive, and we became very good friends. The Vicomte +de Kilmaine, however, was an exception so far as young +Frenchmen were concerned, for I never became very intimate +with any of them. M. de Lesquier d’Attainville, +grandson of the Prince de Rivoli, Duc de Masséna, was a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"></a>[137]</span> +very nice fellow, and I liked him exceedingly; but he was +older than myself, and I did not see him very often except +at the different houses which I visited of an afternoon or +evening. I also liked Prince Jean Radziwill, who was a +Pole, but I saw even less of him than I did of M. de Lesquier +d’Attainville, and, besides, he was much older than I was, +and a few years make a world of difference when one is very +young.</p> + +<p>In after years, at Franzensbad, in Bohemia, I made +the acquaintance of the Countess Broel Plater and her +son and daughter-in-law. The Countess, by her first marriage, +was the Princess Lubomirska, and Prince Jean Radziwill +was her son-in-law. The Countess was delighted to +hear that I had known Prince Jean so well in former years, +and told me many things about him. I often used to meet +the Prince at Baroness Adelsdorfer’s hôtel in Paris, and +also at the Countess Czerwinska’s, <i>née</i> Countess Czajkowska, +and I remember him telling me that he was best man at the +last-named lady’s marriage. It was a marriage of affection, +and a son was born a year or so later; but subsequently the +pair had a quarrel and refused to live together any more. +The husband was afterwards quite willing to make it up, +but the Countess absolutely declined to do so, though +Prince Radziwill said he did everything he could to persuade +her to be reconciled. The Countess had the right to keep +her little son Stanislaus, who was a boy seven years old. +At the time I knew her in Paris, according to Russian law, +in the event of a separation or a divorce, the mother has +always the custody of the sons, and the father that of the +daughters. This ought to be the rule in England, but, as +we are an eccentric nation, our laws quite naturally differ +from those of all others.</p> + +<p>The Countess Czerwinska was a very good-looking, fair +young woman, of about four-and-twenty. She was extremely +well read and very intellectual, and appeared perfectly to +idolize her son. She was very fond of the poet Mickiewicz, +whose poems she often recited to me in Polish, afterwards +giving me her own translation of them in French. It was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"></a>[138]</span> +said that she was employed by the Russian Government +to find out political secrets, and the salon at her hôtel in the +Rue Chaillot was always filled with men from the Ministère +des Affaires Etrangères, like M. de Lesquier d’Attainville, +and also with representatives of the various embassies.<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> +She asked me once to procure her an invitation to a private +masked ball given by the millionaire Ménier, who had made +his fortune with the famous chocolate of that name, which +I did, and escorted her also to the Concours Hippique at +the Palais de l’Industrie.</p> + +<p>The Countess Broel Plater was an old lady, who in her +younger days had been, she told me, lady-in-waiting to the +Empress of Russia, consort of Nicholas I. She also informed +me that she had been brought up in the Palace at St. Petersburg, +and that she was really a daughter of the Tsar, as +everyone at the Court knew. One day, when we were taking +coffee and listening to the band in the Kur Park at Franzensbad, +she piqued my curiosity not a little by telling me that +there were so many secrets at the Russian Court, that to +reveal them would make one’s blood run cold, and that, +to her knowledge, three cold-blooded murders had been perpetrated +at the Palace at Petersburg during the time she<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"></a>[139]</span> +was living there. She mentioned all the details of these +crimes, which had been committed at the instigation of those +in power at that time, and even the names of the victims, +observing that at the time of their occurrence she was +pledged to secrecy, failing which, she would have been +poisoned herself. “No one,” she concluded, “can possibly +realize, unless they have lived, as I have, at the Russian +Court, what fearful things have happened there, simply +in order to satisfy the caprice of a sovereign. Whether it +was the destruction of a girl, man or woman, it mattered +not, so long as the removal of the person served to conceal +something which the Tsar desired should not be made +public.”</p> + +<p>While relating these events, the Countess became quite +excited, and her recital of them was so dramatic that one +could almost imagine that she had actually taken part in them. +She gave me, in fact, quite a creepy feeling, so that I was +really relieved when she came to an end of her accounts of +these tragic episodes. She afterwards told me that she was +going to Nice with her son, whom I frequently met at Franzensbad +with his lovely young wife, and I used to sit in the +Kur and talk to them. The Countess Broel Plater had a +charming villa, in which she had an aviary containing all +kinds of rare birds, and it was her delight to sit near this +aviary, admiring the gorgeous plumage of her beautiful +birds and listening to them sing, while she thought how +fortunate she was to have finished with the Russian Court +and its dark tragedies. She told me that she knew the +family of Count Branicki at Nice, and also the Countess +Zamoyska, a very lovely woman, who had only very recently +married, and was at that time the greatest heiress in Poland. +Liszt says of Polish women: “<i>Ce qu’elles veulent, c’est +l’attachement; ce qu’elles espèrent, c’est le dévouement; ce +qu’elles exigent, c’est l’honneur, le regret et l’amour de la patrie, +ce qui faisait dire à l’Empereur Nicholas I.: ‘Je pourrais +en finir des Polonais, si je venais à bout des Polonaises.’</i>”</p> + +<p>The Countess invited me to stay with her at Nice in the +winter, if I were able to go there, but, for some reason, I was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"></a>[140]</span> +prevented from doing so. She took a great fancy to my little +girl, Xenia, who was with me at the time and was then +seven years old, saying that she reminded her of a near +relative of her own, who also bore the Russian name of +Xenia, which increased not a little the Countess’s interest +in my daughter.</p> + +<p>In Paris I always attended the “<i>jours</i>” of the Countess +Dzialyńska, sister of Prince Czartoryski. Her daughter, +Countess Hélène Dzialyńska, spoke English fluently, and +told me she could learn any language in a fortnight. She +wrote a book in French against capital punishment, called +<i>Sur la peine de mort</i>, which had a large circulation. +The Princess Czartoryska was a royal princess, a Bourbon, +and lived at the Maison Lambert. Among their friends was +a Swedish officer attached to the Embassy, who was a frequent +guest at their soirées. He was no longer young, but +always wore a corset and lavender kid gloves, and never +took his gloves off even to eat his supper. In his younger +days he had been dubbed, “<i>la fille du régiment</i>,” and this +nickname still clung to him. I met him there frequently, +and he still considered himself quite irresistible <i>auprès des +dames</i>.</p> + +<p>I used to go about a good deal in Paris at this time with +Cecil Slade, a boy of fourteen, the son of a friend of my +father, General Sir William Slade. He usually called for +me of an afternoon, and we took long walks on the Boulevards. +A girl friend whom I made was Mlle. Julie Piétri, who was +about fourteen. I often called at her father’s house in the +Champs-Elysées, and one day I said to Madame Piétri, +before her daughter, that I wondered why French girls were +not allowed the same liberty with boys which English girls +enjoyed. Madame Piétri answered that it might be all right +with English girls, but if French ones were allowed to be +alone with gentlemen, the consequences might be disastrous, +as French girls could not control their feelings. I thought +this a strange thing to say before her daughter, and I +observed that Mlle. Julie looked rather confused at her +mother’s remark and blushed, but she did not say anything<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"></a>[141]</span> +in reply. About this time, I made the acquaintance of a +young girl called Isabelle, about whom I have already +written in “Society Recollections in Paris and Vienna.” +Isabelle was allowed more freedom than Mlle. Piétri, and +was not always with her mother, and I found out that +Madame Piétri may have been right in her conjectures. +Nevertheless, I cannot help thinking that French girls are +treated rather too severely in this respect, and that if they +were permitted a little more liberty, they would not suffer +so much as their mothers suppose.</p> + +<p>In Paris, at this time, I had many friends among girls, +but few among young fellows of my own age. I cannot say +that I was in love with any of the former; indeed, I felt +quite indifferent towards them. I certainly admired Isabelle +very much at first, but only for a time, and was almost glad +when our flirtation came to an end. Such, however, is the +perversity of human nature, that no sooner had I lost her +than I began to regret her. After some weeks had passed +I saw her again, when I believed that she had deceived me +with an American, and was not worthy of my regret. She +informed me that this American had made her certain +proposals, which she had refused; but I had a strong suspicion +that this was not the case, and that her admirer had +afterwards left Paris. I never met her again. She suddenly +disappeared, and, though I was very curious to learn +what had become of her, I was never able to find out. She +vanished like some fantastic apparition, leaving no trace +whatever behind, or like a pebble cast into the water, which +leaves only a momentary impression on the surface to indicate +the spot where it has disappeared.</p> + +<p>Some time afterwards I made the acquaintance of a Mlle. +de Laval, who was poor, but of a very noble family. Her +ancestors had been Ducs de Laval, and she was related to +some of the old noblesse of the time of Louis XVI. They +had almost all been guillotined, and but few members of her +family remained. She frequently told me stories about her +ancestors, some of whom had been reduced to poverty. +Mlle. de Laval was an intimate friend of a Mlle. Gabrielle<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"></a>[142]</span> +de Tercin, a very pretty actress, who played at the Porte +Saint-Martin Theatre. I was a good deal in the company +of these girls, and used often to sup with them after the +theatre. Mlle. de Tercin had a friend who was very wealthy, +and had furnished a fine <i>appartement</i> for her, to which I +sometimes went with Mlle. de Laval.</p> + +<p>Another acquaintance of mine was a certain baroness, +the widow of an attaché in Paris. She was at one time +considered a very lovely woman, and certainly possessed +very fine auburn hair and a very good complexion. She had +a pretty hôtel in the Rue Lord Byron, where she received a +great many visitors in the evening, chiefly of the sterner sex. +She told me once that the old Duc de Persigny had called +upon her when she was alone and handed her an envelope.</p> + +<p>“<i>Qu’est-ce que c’est que cela?</i>” she asked.</p> + +<p>To which he replied in trembling tones:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Oh, Madame, ce n’est qu’une petite fleur, rien qu’une petite +fleur ... que je viens vous offrir.</i>”</p> + +<p>She opened the envelope and found that it contained +fourteen thousand francs in banknotes. She at once threw +the notes in the ducal donor’s face, saying:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Sortez, Monsieur, à l’instant de chez moi; je ne veux +ni de vous ni de votre petite fleur non plus.</i>”</p> + +<p>The Duke entreated her to listen to him, but she only +added:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Entendez-vous, je veux que vous sortiez d’ici.</i>”</p> + +<p>Whereupon he withdrew, and she never set eyes on him +again, so she told me. I met her years afterwards in Vienna, +when she was not so rich, and, though nearly sixty, was +dressed more like sixteen and painted up to her eyes. She +told me that Austrians were not so generous as Frenchmen, +but that she preferred Englishmen to all others. She was +now inclined to regret her treatment of the Duc de Persigny, +though she laughed at the recollection of it still. Prince +Rudolf von Liechtenstein called upon her in Vienna and +sent her some beautiful flowers, when she remarked to me:—</p> + +<p>“To think that I have to content myself in Vienna with +flowers! But the Austrians are all so terribly mean.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"></a>[143]</span></p> + +<p>Amongst my mother’s friends in Paris society at this time +was Madame Leleu, whom she saw very frequently. Madame +Leleu was a widow, and lived in a large <i>appartement</i> close +to the Madeleine. When her husband was alive, she was +very fond of dining with him at different restaurants, but +since his death she had lived very quietly, and merely +invited a few friends like ourselves to tea with her at five +o’clock. Before her marriage she had been a Miss Beauclerk, +and the Duke of St. Albans was her grandfather. She had +at one time been engaged to Lord Cantelupe, but on her +wedding day, while she was actually waiting in her bridal +dress at the altar, she was informed that Lord Cantelupe had +died quite suddenly. She told me about this sad event +herself one day when she was visiting her aunt, Mrs. Healey, +in the Rue d’Albe, but I don’t remember what was the cause +of Lord Cantelupe’s death.</p> + +<p>My mother also saw a good deal of the Duchesse de Grammont, +who was a daughter of The MacKinnon of MacKinnon. +She was very clever, though somewhat stiff in her manner, +and while her husband was living gave some very smart +dinner-parties. The Duchess had a fine house at Folkestone, +a place of which she was very fond; but after her husband’s +death she would sometimes let this house for the season +at forty guineas a week. Her son, the present Duc de +Grammont, married a daughter of Baron James de Rothschild, +one of the Paris family of that name. The Hon. Mrs. +Graves, a first cousin of the Duchess, who always stayed with +her when in Paris, was a very great friend of my mother, +and often dined with us in the Rue d’Albe.</p> + +<p>The Duchesse de Caracciolo, an American by birth, who +was remarkably good-looking and very “<i>spirituelle</i>,” was +a great deal in Paris at this time, and frequently came to +see my mother, who was very fond of her. My mother +always told me that the Duchess was just the kind of lady +I should have admired; but, as Fate would have it, I was +not fortunate enough to meet her in Paris.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Goldsmid, a Roman Catholic and the daughter of +a baronet, who lived with her son in the Avenue des Champs-Elysées,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"></a>[144]</span> +was also a friend of my parents, and she was very +intimate with the Duchesse de Grammont, whom, with +her sons, the Duc de Guiche and the Comte de Grammont, +I met sometimes of an evening at her house. I met them +more frequently after Mrs. Goldsmid’s son married a very +beautiful English girl, when the Duchess frequently dined +there. After dinner we used to play cards, of which Goldsmid +was very fond. He was at one time a great friend of my +father, and they used to attend races together near Paris. +He and his mother knew all the best people in the Faubourg +Saint-Germain, as well as in the American colony. The son, +before his marriage, which ended most disastrously for the +wife, chiefly frequented the society of Americans, while his +mother, who was a most intelligent woman, was fonder of +the French. The conversation at their house, when guests +happened to be present, was always carried on in French, as +both mother and son spoke the language perfectly.</p> + +<p>One day, when we were walking in the Champs-Elysées, +my father pointed a man out to me whom, he said, he +would not care to know at any price. He was a tall, well-built, +fine-looking man, with a long fair beard. His name +was Baron de Malortie, and he was a first cousin of Bismarck. +I asked my father why he would not care to know him, +to which he replied:—</p> + +<p>“Because he is always fighting duels; he has fought about +thirty in Paris, and has always killed or wounded his +adversary.”</p> + +<p>Some months later, I happened to be again in the Champs-Elysées, +when I saw my father in the distance, walking arm-in-arm +with a man whom I thought resembled Malortie. +In the evening I asked him with whom he was walking in so +friendly a fashion in the Champs-Elysées that afternoon.</p> + +<p>“It was Malortie,” he answered. “He is such a nice +fellow; I don’t know anyone I like better!”</p> + +<p>On one occasion my father was walking with two friends +of his in Paris, when he turned to one of them, a Mr. Segrave, +and said:—</p> + +<p>“I don’t think you know my friend....”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"></a>[145]</span></p> + +<p>When the gentleman addressed promptly replied in a loud +voice:—</p> + +<p>“No, and I have no wish to know him either.”</p> + +<p>My father told me that ever since then he had avoided +introducing men to each other, as one never knew whether +they had not had some quarrel, as was the case in this +instance.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus18" style="max-width: 26.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus18.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The Author’s Father.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 144.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>My father was subject to frequent fits of absent-mindedness, +and I recollect once in Paris telling him a long story, +and asking his opinion from time to time. He answered +merely in monosyllables, and when I came to the end, and +inquired what conclusion he had arrived at about the whole +affair, he observed:—</p> + +<p>“I was not listening to what you said, and have not the +faintest idea what you were telling me about.”</p> + +<p>Once, in Paris, he invited some people to dine at our +house, but forgot to tell my mother about it, so that when the +guests arrived, there was no dinner prepared for them, and +everything had to be sent for from a restaurant, which, of +course, entailed great delay. On another occasion, there were +seven or eight people dining with us, amongst whom was +General Sir John Douglas, Lady Elizabeth Douglas, Captain +and Mrs. Berkeley, the Marquise Brian de Bois-Guilbert +and Mrs. Joe Riggs. When the soup, which my father +was supposed to serve, was put on the table, he was so +engaged in conversation with Lady Elizabeth Douglas, +that he unconsciously helped himself to it, and began calmly +to eat, talking all the while. My mother, having drawn +Captain Berkeley’s attention to what the host was doing, +the latter said, laughing:—</p> + +<p>“I say, old fellow, I hope you are enjoying the soup, but +all this time you are keeping us waiting, and we should +like to enjoy it as well.”</p> + +<p>My father then realized what he had done, apologized and +said:—</p> + +<p>“Upon my word, I am so absent-minded that I did not +know what I was doing.”</p> + +<p>In later years, while in India, I made the acquaintance<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"></a>[146]</span> +of the Vicomte Arthur d’Assailly, and, meeting him afterwards +in Paris, was invited to call upon him at his hôtel in +the Rue Las Cases. I happened to mention this to my +father, when he told me that I should be careful about +the people whom I called on, as there were so many adventurers +in Paris. Some months later, I went with my father +to a club, where someone slapped him on the back, and, to +my great surprise, it was none other than d’Assailly. My +father then told me that he had known him for years, and +that he was an excellent fellow, but that he must have been +thinking of something else when I asked whether I should +call on him, and so did not catch the name I had mentioned, +and thought I had come across some adventurer or other.</p> + +<p>The Baroness Adelsdorfer gave my father one day, when +he happened to call upon her, a very important letter to +post, which he promised to put into the letter-box as he +was going out. She told him that she wanted an immediate +answer to this letter, so that he was to post it at once. He +carried this letter about with him for a whole week, when, in +my presence, he suddenly discovered it in his pocket. On +his returning to the Baroness, she asked him about this letter, +to which she was still awaiting a reply.</p> + +<p>“Oh! I posted it all right, depend upon it,” he replied, +laughing. “There has been some delay somewhere.”</p> + +<p>The Baroness, however, knew him of old, and exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“I know you must have forgotten to post it; I should +not be surprised if you still have it in your pocket.”</p> + +<p>I met the Baroness Adelsdorfer once at Longchamps, near +the entrance to the Grand Stand, just before the races began, +when, stepping out of her carriage—a very fine turn-out—she +came up to me very excitedly, and exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“It is really too bad of your father. I have been waiting +here for him for half an hour, as he promised to get me a +ticket for the Jockey Club Stand, and I don’t see the least +sign of him.”</p> + +<p>My father, as a matter of fact, had forgotten all about the +poor Baroness, and did not put in an appearance at Longchamps +that day. However, the lady fortunately managed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"></a>[147]</span> +to get the ticket she wanted from some other member of the +club.</p> + +<p>At this time, my father used to be always with Captain +Lennox Berkeley (afterwards Earl of Berkeley), and I +recollect his saying to me on several occasions:—</p> + +<p>“Whenever I have a difficult business letter to write, I +always ask Berkeley’s advice. I never met anyone who +could write such a good business letter as he can.”</p> + +<p>Once, when Berkeley was away from Paris, he said to me:</p> + +<p>“I wish Berkeley were here; I have such a bothering +letter to write and he could do it so well for me.”</p> + +<p>I offered to try my hand at this letter, and composed one +which he said would answer the purpose. But I discovered +afterwards that he had torn it up, and, later, he admitted +having done so, saying:—</p> + +<p>“You cannot write like Berkeley; I don’t know anybody +else who can.”</p> + +<p>While on the subject of letter-writing, I may mention that +my mother frequently expressed regret that she had not +kept the letters written to her by her aunt, Lady Caroline +Murray, observing that they were so well written and so +beautifully expressed that they were quite equal in every +respect to those of Madame de Sévigné.</p> + +<p>I took lessons in fencing at this time from Dusauty, who +had been in the “Cent Gardes” during the Empire, though +Sir Edward Cunninghame, a well-known duellist in Paris, +had advised my learning from Pons, who had been his +instructor. I liked the way Dusauty taught me very much. +He was one of the finest fencers whom I had ever seen, and +taught some of the most redoubtable duellists, who often +came to fence with him just before a duel. I fenced with +some of them when Dusauty happened to be engaged in +giving another lesson, which was a great pleasure to me. +Dusauty was quite young, only seven-and-twenty, a very +fine-looking, dark man, six feet, two inches in height. Unhappily, +he died not long afterwards. His death, it was +said, was attributable to the constant shouting and the +amount of dust which he was obliged to inhale while engaged<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"></a>[148]</span> +in giving his fencing lessons, which caused him to contract +the lung disease which proved fatal. I learned to fence with +both hands, and preferred fencing with my left hand to my +right. In after years, I lost the use of my right arm, and +Colonel Crawley, an Old Etonian, who was then in my +regiment, though he afterwards exchanged into the Coldstream +Guards, and with whom I often used to fence, remarked +that it seemed as though I had foreseen that I should +one day lose the use of that arm.</p> + +<p>When Captain Berkeley went to live at Fontainebleau +with his wife and family, my father was mostly with Lord +Henry Paget, who afterwards became Marquis of Anglesey. +Lord Henry’s only son, who, when his father succeeded to +the marquisate, became Earl of Uxbridge, was a charming +little boy, with very pleasing manners, who was generally +dressed as a British sailor. He lived at this time almost +entirely with the Boyds, and his aunt, Mrs. Yorke, had +charge of him until he went to Eton. My father and I used +frequently to meet him in the Champs-Elysées with his +governess, when he would always run up to us to have a +chat. His father, the Marquis of Anglesey, was very fond +of horses, as was my father, and their tastes were pretty +much the same. They were both greatly attached to Paris, +though neither of them could really speak French, their +knowledge of which was confined to a few words. Lord +Anglesey, indeed, never even tried to speak the language, +and avoided French people who could not talk English. +My father, on the other hand, rather liked to meet them, +and contrived somehow to make himself understood. The +racing in the neighbourhood of Paris was a great attraction +to both Lord Anglesey and my father, but I do not think the +former ever made a bet. I cannot say the same for the +latter, who sometimes betted rather heavily. Lord Anglesey +was particularly fond of dining at restaurants, where he and +my father in later years often dined together, sometimes inviting +other friends. After dinner, as they both detested +theatres, they played billiards, of which they were very fond, +as they both played a very good game. Neither of them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"></a>[149]</span> +cared for balls and parties, and they both, as a rule, hated all +kinds of ceremony. After dinner they liked to smoke a pipe, +though they were at times fond of a good Havana cigar. +This was somewhat difficult to procure in Paris, but M. de +Francisco-Martin, of the Guatemala Legation, would often +make my father a present of a box of cigars, which he received +direct from Havana free of any duty, as he belonged to the +Corps Diplomatique. The society which they preferred +was that which attached little importance to matters of +etiquette and ceremonial, except on certain occasions, as, +for instance, when Lord Lyons, the British Ambassador, +dined with Lord Anglesey. Then everything was carried +to the other extreme, the Marquis priding himself on making +a very great display in the way of silver plate and beautiful +flowers, while the very best dinner which Madame Chevet, +of the Palais-Royal, could supply, together with the choicest +wines and liqueurs, was provided. An American lady, +whom the Marquis admired very much, was usually invited +to preside and entertain the Ambassador.</p> + +<p>There was an Englishman in Paris whose name was Field, +and at one time Lord Anglesey was on rather friendly terms +with him; but one day the Marquis told my father that he +gave himself airs, so that he intended to drop his acquaintance. +Field was a very short, dark, clean-shaven man, more +like an American than an Englishman. He used to receive +every afternoon, when he was with the Marquis, my father +and myself, various lavender-coloured notes, highly perfumed, +on receiving which he would exclaim:</p> + +<p>“Another letter from —— ——!” mentioning the name +of a celebrated actress.</p> + +<p>I asked him once, when he had given me the note to read, +if she often wrote to him in that style, to which he replied +that sometimes he received such notes from her every hour +in the day. After Lord Anglesey had quarrelled with him +I never met him again in Paris. I think he must have gone +away, or perhaps he used to avoid the spot in the Champs +Elysées where the Marquis and my father generally sat from +five to six in the afternoon, to watch the carriages go by.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"></a>[150]</span></p> + +<p>Lord Anglesey occupied a very fine <i>appartement</i> in the +Avenue Kléber, which he rented when he was still Lord +Henry Paget. I recollect my father and I meeting him in +the Champs-Elysées just after his half-brother’s death, when +the former congratulated him on having succeeded to the +title, and the new Marquis said:—</p> + +<p>“I shall only have about £80,000 a year at present, I +think, but perhaps more later, as my brother was heavily +insured.”</p> + +<p>Some days afterwards, my father asked him whether he +intended to put his servants into powder, when he +replied:—</p> + +<p>“I am afraid I can’t afford that yet, as I should have to +keep at least twelve footmen, six in powder, and the other +six to relieve them; but later on I may be able to manage it; +at least, I hope so.”</p> + +<p>The windows of Lord Anglesey’s <i>appartement</i> facing the +street were furnished with very conspicuous pink-coloured +blinds, adorned on the outside with very large coronets, +which caused a good deal of comment. I remember asking +Lord Conyers, who was a friend of the Marquis, why the +latter was so fond of displaying these large coronets on almost +everything he used, and that Lord Conyers answered that +Lord Anglesey had inherited this taste, which was a purely +French one, from the French Kings, Louis XIV. and +Louis XV., to whom his ancestors were related, but that in +other respects his habits and ways were entirely English.</p> + +<p>Folliot Duff and his wife and daughters were then living +in Paris. He was a brother of Billy Duff, whose widow also +resided there. Folliot Duff was a good boxer, and in Paris +he conceived a great passion for fencing. I often called on +the Duffs, when he invariably used to turn the conversation +to his favourite hobby. He was a very agreeable man, but +I never remember seeing him without his giving me a lecture +on fencing, or occasionally, by way of a change, on boxing. +Mrs. Folliot Duff was a very great friend of my mother, +and, after her husband’s death, she used often to come and +dine with us.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"></a>[151]</span></p> + +<p>M. de Francisco-Martin, son of the Minister for Guatemala, +and brother-in-law of the Marquis de San Carlos, formerly +Spanish Ambassador in Paris, was also a great friend of the +Duffs. He lived in a very fine hôtel in the Rue Fortin, which +he sold to the Marquis of Anglesey for £40,000. The latter, +however, only lived there a month with his last wife. +Francisco-Martin often used to pay us a visit of an evening, +when his conversation ran mainly on horses and racing, for +which he shared my father’s partiality.</p> + +<p>I used occasionally to visit the daughters of the Minister +for Venezuela, who lived in a very fine <i>appartement</i> on the +Avenue d’Iéna. One of them, who was then about sixteen, +was an exceedingly pretty girl, with blue eyes, jet black hair, +small but beautiful features, and very white teeth, and the +way in which she spoke Spanish was charming to listen to, +so soft did it sound. I often went to her <i>appartement</i>, when +she would invite me to take tea, and sometimes I found her +alone, as her sister, who was engaged to be married, was +generally with her <i>fiancé</i>. The younger sister, whose name +was Mercèdes, made me speak Spanish to her at times; +at others we spoke French, and the time I spent with her +seemed to pass very quickly—too quickly, indeed, to please +me.</p> + +<p>I recollect calling one day on Madame de Passy and meeting +there the Marchioness de Peñafiel, whose husband afterwards +succeeded the Count de San Miguel as Portuguese Minister +in Paris. The Marchioness was wearing that day a very +pretty hat covered with white flowers, for which, she told +Madame de Passy, she had just given 300 francs. As she +was on the point of leaving, it began to rain, and although +the Marchioness’s gorgeous equipage was waiting at the door +for her, she was so fearful lest her mew hat should be spoiled, +that, with Madame de Passy’s help, she covered it entirely +over with a lace handkerchief, and then advanced bravely +to her carriage, escorted by a footman, holding an umbrella +over her head. The Marchioness de Peñafiel was a great +friend of the Minister for Venezuela and his lovely daughters, +of whom I have just spoken.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"></a>[152]</span></p> + +<p>One day, when I happened to be visiting the Shards, who +lived in the same house as Madame de Passy, I was telling +the second daughter, Sophie Shard, a good-looking young +girl, what trouble I had to get a good valet, when she said:—</p> + +<p>“Why don’t you take a pretty girl and dress her in a page’s +costume? I am sure she would suit you much better than a +boy. I should do this if I were you, and I know you will +be grateful to me for the advice I have given you, if you only +follow it.”</p> + +<p>I thought her idea, which reminded me of Goethe’s +Wilhelm Meister, excellent, but, as I was not my own +master, I could not quite see my way to carry it out.</p> + +<p>About this time, I made the acquaintance of Madame +Saba, who lived in the same <i>appartement</i> as Mlle. Daram, +of the Grand Opéra. The latter was a very pretty girl, +with an exquisite figure, who possessed a fine contralto voice. +She made it a rule to get up at seven o’clock every morning +to practice her singing, and never broke it. She always played +page’s parts, for which she was paid 18,000 francs a year, and, +though she had a friend, a French marquis, who had about +£16,000 a year, and wanted her to give up the stage, she +refused to do so, saying that she wished to be quite independent. +The <i>appartement</i> in which these two ladies lived +was furnished with every comfort and convenience one could +possibly wish for, including a good library; and one day +when they happened to be out when I called, I was given +Labiche’s plays to read to amuse me until their return.</p> + +<p>There was an Irish lady residing in Paris, who used to give +a dance once a fortnight during the winter. I recollect +that amongst her guests on one occasion was a French +countess, who wore a gown which was very <i>décolletée</i> +indeed, so much so that several English ladies commented +upon it. The lady of the house mentioned this to a young +French count, who observed:—</p> + +<p>“<i>On aime à voir ces choses, mais on n’aime pas qu’on +vous les fasse voir.</i>” Saying which, he borrowed a shawl +from his hostess, and, stepping up to the countess, put +it over her shoulders, telling her that all the ladies were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"></a>[153]</span> +so much afraid lest she should take cold. The countess, +who was watching a game of whist at the time, thanked him +for the attention without taking her eyes off the cards, +and then pulled the shawl tighter round her shoulders.</p> + +<p>Miss Fanny Parnell, who was half Irish and half American, +was then one of the loveliest girls in Paris. She was also +one of the best dressed and most attractive in every way. +She was a severe critic of her own sex, and her opinion of +English girls was not a high one. On one occasion she wrote +to me:—</p> + +<p>“<i>I think, as you do, that English girls are, many of them, +very fast. They seem to be so anxious to get rid of their +reputation for being dull and stiff that they set no bounds to +their liveliness.</i>”</p> + +<p>On another occasion, when I told her that I was going to +Folkestone, she observed:</p> + +<p>“The girls in Kent, what I saw of them, were each one +uglier than the other. So your fate is, I fear, not to be +envied, knowing as I do your strong <i>penchant</i> for pretty +faces.”</p> + +<p>Miss Fanny Parnell died very young, quite in the flower +of her youth, in the United States; but the report I read in +a newspaper to the effect that Mrs. Parnell died there afterwards +in poverty was, I am pleased to say, incorrect, for her +daughter, Mrs. Paget, informed me some years ago that +when Mrs. Parnell died she was with her in Ireland, and +that she was surrounded by every possible luxury.</p> + +<p>Miss Minnie Warren, an American from Boston, who +afterwards married a Vanderbilt, was one of the loveliest +young girls I ever met. She was then living with her parents +in an hôtel on the Boulevard Haussmann, and I used frequently +to meet her at parties and balls given by wealthy +Americans. One afternoon I went to tea at her house, as I +always did by invitation two or three times a week, and found +her father sitting down reading <i>The Times</i>. He never so +much as looked at me, but went on reading, while I sat +silent and feeling far from comfortable, until Mrs. Warren +came in and said:—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"></a>[154]</span></p> + +<p>“I suppose you have come to see my daughters; they +will be home soon.”</p> + +<p>I felt very much relieved when, a few minutes after, I +was shown into the charming daughters’ salon, where I felt, +as I always did, “<i>au septième ciel</i>.”</p> + +<p>Another remarkably pretty girl whom I knew was Mlle. +Waterlot, whose acquaintance I made through the Marquise +Brian de Bois Guilbert. I introduced her to Miss Parnell, +as she wanted to go to some American balls. She found, +however, her inability to speak English a great drawback +at these functions, as American young men did not care to +talk French, which entailed too much mental exertion to please +them. Mlle. Waterlot married some time afterwards the +Comte de Lesseps, a son of the famous engineer of the Suez +Canal.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"></a>[155]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<p class="hanging">Captain Howard Vyse—An Anecdote of Paganini—New Hats for Old Ones—Albert +Bingham—Baron Alphonse de Rothschild—Madame Alice +Kernave—Gambetta</p> + +</div> + +<p>During the winter months, I was very fond of going +on Sundays to Pasdeloup’s concerts, which were +held in the Cirque d’Hiver. One Sunday, I met the Vicomte +d’Assailly there, who told me that he preferred these concerts +to those at the Conservatoire, as at the latter people did not +cease to talk the whole time, which was very trying for those +who, like himself, really cared for music. He was passionately +fond of it. On one occasion, I went to Pasdeloup’s +concert with Captain Howard Vyse, formerly of the “Blues,” +an Old Etonian, and a friend of my father, who was nicknamed +“Punch.” He was placed in a seat near the kettledrums, +while I sat some little distance away, as there were very few +vacant seats. After the concert I asked Vyse how he had +enjoyed it, when he told me that he had never slept better +in his life, and had not once heard the kettledrums. He +could speak very little French, but he thoroughly enjoyed +going to the Palais-Royal Theatre, and would often tell me +of a play there which was worth seeing, such as <i>le Réveillon</i>, +by Meilhac and Halévy, of which he related to me the plot. +He was always very lively, and sometimes rather amusing, +and at times he would invite himself to dine with us, where +he was always very welcome. Once, for some reason or +other, my mother did not want him to stay to dinner, and +told him that she was afraid she had nothing to give him. +However, he asked her what there was, and, on being told, +said:—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"></a>[156]</span></p> + +<p>“If I had ordered the dinner myself, I could not have +anything I like better.”</p> + +<p>So he remained and dined with us, notwithstanding the +excuses my mother had made for the dinner. My father +introduced him to the late Lady Louisa Meux, sister of the +Marquis of Ailesbury, who lived in quite a palace in the Bois +de Boulogne, and had very smart “turn-outs.” She used +to give very good dinners and once invited Howard Vyse +to dine with her. Whenever afterwards my father wanted +to annoy him, he would say that he was sure that Lady +Louisa Meux would be pleased to see him at dinner. To +which Vyse would answer angrily:—</p> + +<p>“However badly I might want a dinner, I would not go +there for anything.”</p> + +<p>The explanation of this was a secret between my father and +Howard Vyse, and evidently an amusing one, since they +always laughed heartily over it.</p> + +<p>Lady Louisa Meux was very rich and highly eccentric. +Her husband was in a lunatic asylum, and she herself was very +queer at times. I never knew her myself, but my father +said she occasionally reminded him of a sister of his, whom +he also considered rather eccentric.</p> + +<p>Signor Campobello, whose real name was Campbell, used +to sing at a house to which I was sometimes invited of an +afternoon. One day, when he had just sung a song, the lady +of the house went up to him and asked him, in my hearing, +to sing again. He replied:</p> + +<p>“You are aware of my charges—five hundred francs +each song.” To which she rejoined:—</p> + +<p>“I am perfectly well aware of it.”</p> + +<p>Campobello’s wife was Madame Sinico, who was also an +operatic singer and often sang at Covent Garden.</p> + +<p>The Marquise Brian de Bois-Guilbert, a very pretty and +distinguished-looking woman, when dining with us one +evening, happened to remark how badly professional singers +were treated by some people, and related a story of a man and +his wife who were invited to dinner by some rich people in +Paris on purpose to avoid paying them for singing afterwards.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"></a>[157]</span> +However, after these two singers had had their +dinner, they put a louis each on their plates in payment for +it, and immediately afterwards left the house, much to the +disgust and disappointment of their host and hostess, who +had invited them expressly to sing to the other guests. The +Marquise herself sang most beautifully and quite like a professional, +having learned of the celebrated Professor Duprez +(formerly of the Grand Opéra), one of whose very best pupils +she was; and when she did so, always insisted that there +should be no talking in the room, otherwise she would leave +off singing at once. This was no idle threat, as I once saw +her carry it out myself.</p> + +<p>Captain Berkeley, who was very fond of hearing her sing, +would often remark that English people, as a rule, always +begin to talk when anyone sings or plays, and he once told a +story, which, though I have no doubt it is a very old one, I +may as well repeat, for the benefit of those unacquainted +with it:</p> + +<p>On one occasion, when Paganini was playing a violin solo, +and had reached the most pathetic part, he was suddenly +interrupted by a certain English peer, who touched his arm +and said:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Pardon, Monsieur, mais j’ai besoin de causer avec une +dame.</i>”</p> + +<p>It appeared that, in order to reach the lady in question, +the Englishman had to pass Paganini, and the bow of the +violin happened to be in his way.</p> + +<p>“<i>Si ce ri est pas vrai, c’est très bien trouvé</i>,” as Captain +Berkeley observed at the time he told me the story. Let +us hope that the lady was worthy of the interruption. +Possibly she was a Venus, in which case there may have been +some excuse for this infatuated peer, whoever he may have +been.</p> + +<p>The Marquise de Brian de Bois-Guilbert used to pay frequent +visits to the Duchesse d’Abrantès at her fine Château +de Bailleul, where the latter’s sister-in-law, the Comtesse de +Faverney, painted a portrait of the Marquise, which she +showed me. It was a very fine one, and, unlike most amateur<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"></a>[158]</span> +productions, really resembled the original. The Duchesse +d’Abrantès was then a lovely young blonde, and one of the +best portraits that I ever saw of her was one which she gave +to the Marquise. She was taken in her garden, standing +by a favourite horse, with her arm round the animal’s neck.</p> + +<p>In reference to the Duchesse d’Abrantès, the Marquise +once observed, in the course of a letter to me:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>Her whole family is greatly respected at Versailles, +not only because it is illustrious, but because it is very pious +and very charitable. What kindness of heart, perfect +courtesy, and exquisite and truly Christian benevolence +do we find in these illustrious families! I repeat: nothing +is comparable to the courtesy and perfect breeding of the +French nobility, which is doubly kind when one happens +to have fallen into misfortune. Its soul is as lofty as its +rank is elevated; its heart is excellent. The greatest +nobility resides at Versailles, for it is in greater security +there than anywhere else.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p>And she added:</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>On m’a surnommée ici la rose blanche, puis la blanche +apparition, et j’ai de grand succès de beauté, distinction, +chose rare parmi les femmes; pour mon talent, on est +en extase.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p>I went, in later years, to a very smart ball given by the +Marquise de Blocqueville, at which I met the Comtesse de la +Taille des Essarts and her daughter Gabrielle. The latter, +with whom I danced, was a fair girl, who afterwards married +the Marquis de Gabriac. I took the Comtesse, who was an +English lady and a friend of my mother’s, in to supper. +When I left the ball, I looked for my opera-hat, which was +quite new, and found a very old one in its place. They told +me at the <i>vestiaire</i> that they thought the Marquis de Rey +had taken mine. I accordingly sent him the hat with a note, +asking the return of mine, and received an answer, saying<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"></a>[159]</span> +that he was not the person who had left this old hat, as his +was quite new, and he would have no particular desire to +exchange it.</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>Je regrette</i>,” he wrote, “<i>d’avoir à vous annoncer que le +chapeau que vous m’avez fait remettre hier n’est pas à moi; +l’échange que vous supposez n’est pas de mon fait; <span class="smcap">mon</span> +chapeau étant entre mes mains.... Ayez donc la bonté de le +faire reprendre chez mon concierge, numéro 11, rue des Saints-Pères, +etc., etc.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p>At the same time, the Marquis expressed the hope that +I should find my own hat, but this I never did.</p> + +<p>The above incident reminds me of a story I heard about +General Ronald Lane, of the Rifle Brigade, who was at one +time Equerry to the Duke of Connaught. The gallant +officer in question went, many years ago, to a ball in London, +wearing a perfectly new hat, and, on leaving, found, as I +had done, an old one in its place. He must evidently have +determined to pay someone out for the loss of his hat, for +the next time he went to a ball, which he did soon afterwards, +he took this old hat with him, and, leaving the +house early, had time to select the newest of the hats in the +cloak-room and one that fitted him perfectly.</p> + +<p>“You can see for yourself,” said he to the attendant, +“that this old hat can’t possibly belong to me. I must +look for it, and I shall soon find it.”</p> + +<p>In this way, he secured an almost better hat than the one +he had lost, and, of course, he left the old hat in its place.</p> + +<p>At a ball given by an American in Paris, the celebrated +composer Waldteufel was conducting one of his own very +delightful waltzes, which he used at times to play in rather +slow time, putting always a great deal of expression into them, +when the master of the house came up to him and asked if +he would mind playing the waltz a trifle faster, since it would +suit the dancers better. Waldteufel, whose <i>amour-propre</i> +was wounded by this request, immediately afterwards +struck up the “Dead March in Saul,” and since then no<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"></a>[160]</span> +one dared to interfere with him when he was conducting +his orchestra, which he did at all the principal balls, +though his fee was £150 for the night. It was very interesting +to watch him conduct his orchestra, which was +excellent, though by no means numerous. At times, he +played the violin and led the orchestra somewhat in the +manner of Edward Strauss, though he went through more +peculiar movements with his arms and legs than even the +latter does. Edward Strauss always seems to dance himself +when he conducts his orchestra and plays waltzes and polkas, +and looks pleasant; but Waldteufel always looked furious. +I remember at balls, when I was dancing a cotillion or a +waltz, I used to be rather afraid of him, as one never knew +at any time what eccentricity he might not be prompted +to indulge in. Sometimes, he would stop his orchestra in +the middle of a dance; at others, he would play an overture +when you were expecting a waltz. In fact, with him one +had to be prepared for anything. But the Americans in +Paris were such beautiful dancers that these eccentricities +rather pleased them, and, besides, they could dance to almost +any <i>tempo.</i></p> + +<p>The Marquis de Grandmaison used often to dine with us +in the Rue d’Albe. He was a very strongly-built, clean-shaven +man, and wore his hair very short; so much so, +indeed, that one day, when he had given a photograph of +himself to my father, the latter said:—</p> + +<p>“You look, my dear fellow, as if you had undergone ten +years’ penal servitude!”</p> + +<p>Grandmaison laughed, as he always enjoyed a joke, even +when it was at his own expense. Generally, he would +retaliate, and my father and he used to make fun of one +another. The Marquis, who belonged to one of the noblest +families in France, and was a very wealthy man, owned a +beautiful hôtel in Paris. He had lived in the United States +and spoke English like an American. He was very fond of +practical jokes, and would make us all laugh at the tricks +he had played on various people. My mother rather liked +him, but at times he was almost too noisy; in fact, very like<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"></a>[161]</span> +a schoolboy, as he was up to all kinds of fun. He belonged +to the Jockey Club, and generally drove a fine +four-in-hand to the races at Longchamps, and he was very +fond of racing.</p> + +<p>The Marquis de Bois-Hébert, the husband of the well-known +author, used also to drive a very fine four-in-hand +in Paris at this time. I knew him very well and have mentioned +him in my book, “Society Recollections in Paris +and Vienna.”</p> + +<p>The late Hon. Albert Bingham, brother of Lord Clanmorris, +who drew the pictures in Lady Brassey’s well-known +book, used often to dine with us in the Rue d’Albe, and +sometimes brought with him a little pug-dog called Félice, +who was a great favourite, particularly with the ladies. +Bingham was a very pleasant man, with plenty of conversation, +and was most popular in Paris. He was very nice-looking +and a good draughtsman, besides being clever in +other ways. I remember him getting me an invitation to +dine with the Naylor-Leylands, who had a fine hôtel in the +Avenue d’Antin, in which the kitchen was at the top of the +house. The Naylor-Leylands had as their secretary a man +who had formerly been a captain in the Rifle Brigade. I +was at Eton with Albert Bingham’s nephew, Lord Clanmorris, +who entered the Rifle Brigade. I met him afterwards +in town and also in Paris. He married soon after the +last time I saw him. He has recently died.</p> + +<p>The Piétris sometimes came to see us in the Rue d’Albe, +and, on the marriage of the eldest daughter, Marie, I was +invited to the wedding, at which the two younger sisters +acted as bridesmaids, and also to the ball given just before +the married couple started on their honeymoon. About +two hundred people were present at this ball, and the supper +was an excellent one, with champagne. I danced with +Mlle. Julie Piétri, who was a beautiful dancer, and looked +very pretty that evening in a dress of pink tulle, with pearls +as ornaments.</p> + +<p>When Captain Hubert de Burgh, formerly of the 11th +Hussars, who was an Old Etonian and a nephew of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"></a>[162]</span> +Earl of Cardigan, dined with us, as he often did, my mother +always said that she felt sure that he would break a wine-glass; +and he invariably did so. This was previous to his +being attacked by the sad spinal complaint from which he +died. One day, in the Champs-Elysées, he fell in love at +sight with a German lady whom my father knew, and she +told him that she had also fallen in love with de Burgh. +My father introduced them to each other, and de Burgh +afterwards left the lady his entire fortune. At one time +my father always went with him to the different race-meetings +round Paris.</p> + +<p>In later years, Mr. Tugwell, a banker from Bath, who +was on a visit to Paris, was very anxious to see Ferrières, +the magnificent country-seat of the late Baron Alphonse de +Rothschild. Accordingly, having obtained permission from +the Baron himself, who happened to be in Paris at the time, +we went there by train.</p> + +<p>Ferrières is one of the most beautiful properties in the +world, and enjoys quite a European reputation for its +magnificence. We went all over the château itself, entering +nearly every room. On our arrival at the top of the house, +I recollect seeing some very elaborate coffins, covered with +gold, standing up against the outside walls of certain rooms. +The servant who showed us over the house explained to us +about these coffins, and said whose they were; but I was +only too pleased to go down the staircase again and see +them no more. The servant showed us some of the beautiful +<i>objets d’art</i> and paintings which adorned the walls, and +told us that the house contained <i>objets d’art</i> to the value of +nearly one hundred million francs. Baron Alphonse was +the wealthiest of all the Rothschilds, and all the most +remarkable <i>objets d’art</i> which had been amassed by the +family in years gone by had been collected and placed in the +Château de Ferrières. We were told that Rothschild rarely +ever gave permission for visitors to see the inside of the +château, as he did not wish journalists and others to describe +the interior of this splendid house and the wealth it contained, +which, we were assured, exceeded that of any other<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"></a>[163]</span> +in Europe. Tugwell, who could not speak French, was +delighted to find that one of the gardeners had lived as +head gardener on his estate near Bath, and had also been +a gardener in the service of the Prince of Wales, afterwards +King Edward VII. This man showed us over the greenhouses, +and told us that he was one of twenty-seven gardeners +employed at Ferrières, and that the collection of orchids +was the finest in Europe; and Tugwell, who had a very fine +collection himself, admitted, after seeing them, that such +must be the case.</p> + +<p>Baron Alphonse de Rothschild was a fair man with a long +beard. He used, at one time, to ride a very fine chestnut +horse, and to go every morning, accompanied by his daughter, +also on horseback, to the Bois de Boulogne, returning to his +hôtel in time for <i>déjeuner</i> at twelve o’clock. Mlle. de Rothschild +died quite young, and the Baron, who never seemed to +get over her death, died himself not long afterwards.</p> + +<p>On one occasion, I went to the Chantilly and to le Vésinet +races, and was shown over the splendid estate of the Duc +d’Aumale. Colonel McCall, a friend of my father, was +Equerry to the Duke, and his son, who was an Old Etonian, +served in my regiment, which he commanded in later years. +The Duc d’Aumale bequeathed this splendid property to +the French nation. Le Vésinet races were not of much +account, and were only kept going by the support of the +royal owner of Chantilly.</p> + +<p>I went, of course, to Versailles to see the magnificent +château and the beautiful gardens, which are laid out in the +most charming manner imaginable, and, though often +imitated, have never been equalled. Le Petit Trianon, with +its splendid collection of roses of every possible <i>nuance</i>—the +“Souvenir à la Malmaison,” “Prince Noir,” “La +France,” “Niphetos,” “Boule de Neige,” and so forth—greatly +enhance the charm of that part of the gardens; +and when the great fountains are playing, the view from the +terrace is quite fairy-like in its wonderful beauty, and the +château looks like one of those magic palaces described in +the “Arabian Nights.” When there is a display of fireworks<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"></a>[164]</span> +and the fountains are lit up by various coloured lights, you +may almost imagine yourself in fairyland or living in the +days of the Caliph Haroun Alrashid, particularly if one +happens to be in the company of a fair lady, as I was in that +of Mlle. Renée Leclerc.</p> + +<p>I went once to Enghien with my mother and the Marquise +Brian de Bois-Guilbert, where we listened to a fine Prussian +military band, which played, as the Marquise observed, +better than most French military bands. It was, however, +depressing to reflect that the Prussians were then in occupation +and so near Paris. Enghien is a nice little place, with +an artificial lake and some fine houses, and the public garden, +where the band plays of an afternoon, is a very pretty one. +The Marquise de Bois-Guilbert stayed there during the War, +and for some time afterwards, before returning to Paris, +where she usually lived.</p> + +<p>I once visited the Fair of Saint-Germain with some +friends. In one of the shows a woman conjuror singled me +out, and asked me to hold a gold coin in my hand. Then, +telling me to keep my hand tightly closed, she went away +to a considerable distance, counted up to three and fired off +a pistol. Afterwards, she asked me to open my hand and +to count aloud in French the pieces it contained, which I +found numbered over thirty. How the trick was performed +I have never had the slightest idea to this day.</p> + +<p>I was once at the Cirque d’Hiver, in Paris, when a woman +was blindfolded on the stage; after which her husband came +up to me and asked if I had a foreign bank-note about me. +I gave him an Austrian one, which he held in his hand, and +the woman immediately cried out:</p> + +<p>“Austrian ten-florin note, Number 178150.”</p> + +<p>I never was able to discover how this was done.</p> + +<p>I went once with Madame Saint-Hilaire, who wrote some +interesting novels, published by Dentu, of the Palais Royal, +and her pretty daughter, Madame Alice Kernave, who had +been an actress in St. Petersburg, to a <i>séance</i> of spirit-rapping +and table-turning, in which they both firmly believed. +But, to tell the truth, I did not think much of it, though<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"></a>[165]</span> +the <i>séances</i> were always very well attended. I did not mind +being kept in the dark when I sat near Madame Alice Kernave, +but when I went there alone with her mother on one +occasion I felt rather nervous. I never went again, but +frequently visited the daughter, whom I admired at that +time. She had received, while in St. Petersburg, very handsome +presents from a Russian gentleman, who, she told me, +had recently died. She was looking for a good engagement +in <i>la haute comédie</i>, in which she was very clever. I met +her some years afterwards at Nice, where she was acting at +the theatre, when she told me that she had lived in great +luxury while her Russian friend was alive, but since then +had been obliged to live more economically in Paris.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp56" id="illus19" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus19.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Madame Alice Kernave.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 164.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus20" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus20.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>The late Earl of Berkeley.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 165.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>I remember that once the Baron de Vay, a Russian, who +lived during the summer at a villa he owned at Vévey, in +Switzerland, called on my mother, in the Rue d’Albe, with +his daughter, a pretty little girl of fourteen. In the course +of conversation, the Baron mentioned that he made a rule of +never knowing certain people for more than a fortnight, after +which he always dropped their acquaintance, if he possibly +could, for, as he explained, in that space of time he learned +all their good qualities and none of their faults. I could not +help thinking at the time, and I am still of the same opinion, +that he was a most fortunate man to be able to do so. The +Baron only spoke French and Russian, and did not know a +word of English.</p> + +<p>In later years, when the Earl of Berkeley was living with +his wife and his sister-in-law, the Baronne van Havre, in +the Rue de Saint-Pétersbourg, he took a fancy to the streich +melodion (or viola zither), which is somewhat like the +streich zither, and Sighicelli, the famous violinist of the +Grand Opéra, came every evening to give us lessons, when +we all three played together. The streich melodion is a +favourite instrument in Vienna, where thirty or forty of them +are at times played together by young girls in society at +the Musik Vereins Saal, and the effect is quite charming. +Some evenings, Taffanel, the flute-player of the Grand +Opéra, brought his silver flute, and really enchanted all<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"></a>[166]</span> +whom Berkeley invited to his house. I remember that, one +evening, Captain Francis Lowther, the father of Miss +Toupie Lowther, the well-known lawn-tennis player, came +there. He was a son of the Earl of Lonsdale and a friend +of my father. He told Berkeley how well he spoke foreign +languages, particularly French, when the latter replied that +there was very little merit in his being able to do so, as +he had spoken them all his life.</p> + +<p>At the house of some American friends of ours I had the +privilege of meeting the same evening two of the greatest +men of their time: General Grant and Gambetta. General +Grant appeared to me to be a short, stoutly-built and rather +stern-looking man. On being presented to him, I happened +to remark that the day had been a fine one, to which he +replied:—</p> + +<p>“I beg to differ from you, sir; the wind was a bitterly +cold one from the North.”</p> + +<p>I afterwards spoke in praise of Paris, and said how much +I preferred it to London, so far as its theatres and other +amusements were concerned. The General replied that he +was much pleased with what he had seen of Paris, but that +London and the English interested him far more. He then +asked me several questions about England and the British +Army, which I answered to the best of my ability. My +answers seemed to please him, since he asked me to give +him my address, and called on me with his son the very next +day; but I happened most unfortunately to be out. My +impression of Grant was that he was a very kind-hearted +man, but that he did not carry his heart on his +sleeve.</p> + +<p>Gambetta shook hands with me like the General, but, +instead of letting go of my hand, kept it in his, the while +he made a very long speech in French, which was so florid +that I was quite carried away by his eloquence, and forgot +almost where I was. He did not seem to expect a reply; +anyway, he contented himself with one or two monosyllables +from me, and praised England, the English, and the English +Army in the most high-flown language. My impression of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"></a>[167]</span> +Gambetta was that he was a passionate, warm-hearted son +of the Midi, who certainly wore his heart on his sleeve. His +appearance was not in his favour, as he was excessively +stout and had a bad figure, but his attractive, captivating +manner more than atoned for his physical defects.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"></a>[168]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<p class="center">My First Night at Mess—Life at Shorncliffe—The Charltons</p> + +</div> + +<p>It was not until two years after I had passed my examination +for the Army, in 1872, that I obtained my commission, +when I was gazetted as a sub-lieutenant to the 2nd +Battalion of the 10th (Lincolnshire) Regiment. My regiment +was at that time serving in India, but, since it was +under orders to return home, I was posted to the regimental +depôt at Shorncliffe, which was attached temporarily to +the 2nd Battalion of the 9th (Norfolk) Regiment.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at Shorncliffe, I reported to Lieutenant +Richard Southey, the officer temporarily commanding the +depôt, the senior officer, Captain Byron, being then on +leave. He was a tall, good-looking man, with very pleasant +manners, and I felt at once at my ease with him. He showed +me the hut which was to serve as my quarters, and offered +to do anything for me that he could, even placing his soldier +servant at my disposal, until I had time to choose one from +the depôt. My hut, which was similar to those occupied +by other officers, contained two small rooms leading into +one another; while the furniture, which I had had sent +down from London, was of the kind usually found in barracks, +consisting of a bed which could be easily taken to pieces, +a chest of drawers separated into two parts, but which could +be put together for use, a green and black Brussels carpet, +and curtains to match. I also had an oak bureau, forming +a chest of drawers and writing-table, which I had had all +the time I was at Eton. The furniture supplied to officers +by the War Office consisted merely of a table and two or<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"></a>[169]</span> +three ordinary chairs; but, with my own arm-chair, tablecloth, +various knick-knacks and a number of pictures which +I had had at Eton, I managed to make the rooms look +habitable, if nothing else.</p> + +<p>At half-past six a bugle sounded for the officers to dress +for mess, which was at seven o’clock. I confess that I felt +not a little nervous on entering the ante-room in my new +uniform, which was scarlet with yellow facings; but Southey +was already there and introduced me to most of the officers, +who greeted me very cordially.</p> + +<p>The president at dinner was a captain named Dunn, who +sat at the head of the table; the vice-president was a +lieutenant. The president and vice-president hold office +for a week, and are then replaced by other officers of the +same rank. The conversation at table was very animated, +mainly on general topics; indeed, military matters seemed +to be more or less tabooed. The string band of the regiment +played during dinner, and, I thought, tolerably well, though, +as I had just come from Paris, where I was accustomed to +hear some of the best military bands, I was perhaps rather +difficult to please. After the band had played “God save +the Queen,” and Her Majesty’s health had been proposed +by the president, all the officers standing to drink it, we left +the table, the president and the vice-president being the +last to leave. Most of the officers then adjourned to the ante-room, +where I got into conversation with a lieutenant named +Bethell, who had just joined the 9th (Norfolk) Regiment, +and whom I had known as a boy in Somersetshire. Bethell +was a very clever fellow, and in his examination for the +Army had passed first out of three hundred. He was an +excellent rifle-shot and a good all-round sportsman. Some +years later he succeeded to the title of Lord Westbury, when +he was transferred to the Guards.</p> + +<p>In the course of the evening the adjutant, Lieutenant +Maltby, came up to me and told me that I must put in an +appearance next morning at early drill. Maltby was an +exceedingly nice fellow, and a thorough soldier. He was +very particular about his dress, and even in mufti was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"></a>[170]</span> +always <i>tiré à quatre épingles</i>. The following morning I +found him on the parade ground, when he handed me over +to a corporal for instruction in the goose step. After I +had been practising this engaging exercise for about an hour, +the adjutant came up, watch in hand, and told the corporal +that that would do for the day, and asked me to accompany +him to the mess-room, where we ordered breakfast. With the +exception of the orderly officer, who was obliged to attend +early parade with the adjutant and who came in shortly +afterwards, we had the room to ourselves, as the other +officers did not as a rule breakfast until nine o’clock or later.</p> + +<p>After breakfast, Maltby took me to the orderly room, +to introduce me to the colonel, telling me that I must always +address him and the majors as “Sir,” but that this was only +customary with other superior officers when on parade. +The colonel, Lieut.-Colonel Knox, who came in shortly +afterwards, was a tall, well-built man of about sixty, with +grey hair and moustache and whiskers almost white, which +gave him the appearance of being older than he was. He +was very pleasant to me, and said:—</p> + +<p>“I am very pleased to have you in my regiment, and am +only sorry that you do not belong to it, as you are an +Etonian, and I am very fond of Eton boys.”</p> + +<p>He then said I must come to his house, when he would +present me to his wife and daughter.</p> + +<p>At lunch, which was at half-past one, I was introduced +to a lieutenant named Lovell, a good-looking fellow about +five-and-twenty, with fair hair and moustache, whom I +had not seen the previous evening, and with whom I became +very friendly. He asked me to come with him for a walk +to Folkestone, which was quite near, to which I readily +consented. We had a pleasant walk along the cliffs, and +I was quite charmed with Folkestone, with its green lawns +facing the sea and its fine houses, standing for the most part +in the midst of trim, little gardens, gay with summer flowers. +During our walk Lovell explained to me many things about +the Service, and told me many curious incidents which had +happened while the regiment was at Yokohama, where it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"></a>[171]</span> +had been stationed for several years, before being sent to +Shorncliffe. He said that the regiment was very sorry to +leave Japan, and that it was never likely to have such a +charming station again. After a short time in England, it +would probably be ordered to India, and that, in that case, +he should exchange into a cavalry regiment, which he subsequently +did. He was, however, very devoted to his +present regiment, and said that the chief was an excellent +man, and everything that one could wish for in a colonel, +and that it was a rare thing to find all the officers pull so +well together as they did. Unfortunately, the colonel would +have to retire soon, though Daunt, the senior major, who +would probably succeed to the command, would not make +a bad chief.</p> + +<p>A day or two later, I called at the colonel’s house, where +I was introduced to his wife and daughter. The latter +was a tall, dark girl, in the early twenties, with very charming +manners. The colonel asked me a number of questions +about Eton and also about Paris, of which city he was very +fond, though he had not been there for some years; and +when I left, walked part of the way back to camp with me.</p> + +<p>I found my life very easy with the 9th Regiment. I had +to attend parade from seven till eight, and again from +eleven till half-past twelve; but of an afternoon I was +generally free to do as I pleased, as it was only occasionally +that I had to attend afternoon parade, which, however, was +over by four o’clock. After my duties for the day were over +and I had changed my clothes, I usually went into Folkestone, +returning in time for mess. At first the only people I knew +in Folkestone were a retired colonel and his wife, who were +friends of my parents; but Lovell introduced me to several +of his friends. Among them was a certain Miss Burnett, +who was very much in love with a lieutenant of the 9th +Regiment, named Seaton, and at no pains to conceal the +fact, which occasioned me no little amusement. Unfortunately, +Seaton did not reciprocate the attachment with +which he had inspired her. More to my taste than this +lovelorn damsel was a lively young lady of some fifteen<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"></a>[172]</span> +summers, who was known to her intimates as “Vic.” She +was a general favourite with the subalterns of the regiment, +as she was very fond of horses and dogs, and rather amusing +in her conversation, in which she used slang expressions with +considerable freedom. Miss “Vic” used to drive a very +smart turn-out about Folkestone, and was quite an accomplished +whip.</p> + +<p>The 9th Regiment used to give “Penny Readings” once +a fortnight, at which a good many people from Folkestone +and Sandgate were generally present. At the first of these +entertainments which I attended Lovell read some of +“Artemus Ward,” and in such an amusing manner that +everyone was delighted. As I had the reputation of being +a good performer on the zither, I was asked to play something +on that instrument, which was quite a novelty. It +was very well received, and next day I received a note from +a lady unknown to me, who, I was told, was the mother of +an officer in the “Blues,” inviting me to dinner and asking +me to bring my zither with me. I showed the letter to +Maltby, who advised me not to accept it, as it would, in +his opinion, be making myself too cheap. So I declined, +with many thanks.</p> + +<p>A subaltern of the 10th Regiment, named Richard Southey, +went on leave about this time and left me his black servant. +I found the fellow very attentive, but I soon began to miss +things. Among them was a pearl stud, for finding which +I promised him a shilling. As, however, it was not forthcoming, +I offered him half-a-crown, and the next day he +produced it, to my great satisfaction. But, as I soon found +that this system of offering rewards for “lost” articles was +a trifle too expensive, and I could not get rid of him till +Southey returned, I was forced to protect myself by putting +everything of value under lock and key. Nevertheless, he +generally succeeded in discovering some means of relieving +me of anything to which he happened to take a fancy.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus21" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus21.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Miss Augusta Charlton.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 172.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="illus22" style="max-width: 18.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/illus22.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption class="caption"><p>Miss Ida Charlton.</p> + <p class="caption-r">[<i>To face p. 173.</i></p></figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Captain John Byron, a grandson of Lord Byron, who +commanded the depôt of my regiment, returned about +this time from leave. He was a rather handsome and very<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"></a>[173]</span> +distinguished-looking man of forty, but inclined to be very +arrogant in his manner towards those whom he did not +like. Fortunately, he condescended to take a great fancy +to me from the first, and made quite a friend of me, notwithstanding +that I was so much younger than he was.</p> + +<p>Soon after this, another sub-lieutenant, named Arthur +Dillon, joined my regiment, so that I now had a companion +at morning drill. Dillon was the son of an Irish baronet, +who was also a Count of the Holy Roman Empire, though +no one would have imagined that he hailed from the Emerald +Isle, as he spoke without the faintest trace of an Irish accent, +and was a very nice young fellow indeed.</p> + +<p>One day I took Dillon over to Dover to call upon some +people named Charlton, whose acquaintance I had made +when a boy at Ostend, and who were now living in Victoria +Park. Mr. Charlton had formerly served in the Queen’s +Bays, though he had sold out of the Service while still a +cornet; his wife was a very handsome woman, and they had +six children, five girls and a boy, the two elder girls, Augusta +and Ida, being remarkably pretty. Mrs. Charlton invited +us to stay to supper, an invitation which we readily accepted, +the more so that we were both at a susceptible age and the +charms of our hostess’s daughters had not been without +their effect upon us. During supper Mrs. Charlton told us +that a very smart ball was to be given shortly at Dover, +to which they were going, and suggested that we should join +them and bring two or three other young officers, saying +that she could manage to put us all up for the night. Needless +to say, we gladly accepted her kind offer, and on the day of +the ball went over to Dover, with Bethell and another subaltern +of the 9th named Townsend. As the ball was a military +one, we all had to appear in uniform, and at the entrance +to the ball-room were asked our names and regiments. +Townsend gave his own and my name, and when they asked +my rank, coolly replied: “Colonel, 10th Regiment.” Next +day, in the local newspaper, in the list of those present at +the ball, I duly appeared as such.</p> + +<p>After the ball, which was a great success, and at which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"></a>[174]</span> +the Misses Charlton, who had recently returned from a visit +to the Continent and wore dresses of the very latest Paris +fashion, were immensely admired, we drove back to Victoria +Park, where we spent what little remained of the night, and +after an early breakfast returned to Shorncliffe.</p> + +<p>Dillon and I found our life at Shorncliffe very monotonous +when winter came on, for Folkestone was almost empty, +and had it not been for the kindness of our friends at Dover, +at whose house we were always assured of a warm welcome, +we should have had a precious dull time of it. The only +event of interest was the arrival from India of the 3rd Battalion +of the 60th Rifles, all the officers of which were made +honorary members of the 9th Regiment’s mess, until their +own mess was in order. I made the acquaintance of several +of the new-comers, who seemed very nice fellows indeed. +One of them, Captain Bingham, told me, <i>à propos</i> of the ball +to which I had been at Dover, that once the 1st Rifle Brigade, +when stationed there, had been invited to a ball given by +the Buffs, but that when the “Green Jackets,” in their +turn, gave a ball, they did not condescend to invite any of +the officers of the Buffs, nor any of the Dover ladies, all the +guests coming down from London, which greatly disgusted +everybody at Dover, and created a very bad feeling between +the two regiments.</p> + +<p>Not long after this, Captain Byron received news that our +regiment was shortly expected from India, and would be +stationed at Chatham. This, of course, necessitated the +immediate removal of the depôt to Chatham, to the great +regret of both Dillon and myself, for, on the whole, we had +been very happy at Shorncliffe, and feared that we might +not enjoy nearly so much liberty as we had had with the +9th Regiment.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"></a>[175]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<p class="center">An N.C.O. of the Old School—Major Blewett—Captain Byron—Sandhurst</p> + +</div> + +<p>On our arrival at Chatham Barracks, I was allotted a +single room in the officers’ quarters, which was +much smaller and less comfortable than either of the two +rooms which I had occupied at Shorncliffe. Dillon was +given a similar one, but Byron, being a captain, had better +accommodation.</p> + +<p>Dillon and I found our life at Chatham very different from +that at Shorncliffe, and not nearly so pleasant. We had to +attend early drill with the recruits under a sergeant, who +was very severe, and made us drill exactly the same as the +men. Some mornings it was so cold that our hands became +quite numbed, and we could scarcely hold our rifles. But +this martinet of a sergeant had no pity, and made us “carry +on” until we were ready to drop with fatigue and cold. +The recruits he bullied most unmercifully. One morning, a +recruit arrived late for parade, whereupon the sergeant gave +him several kicks on his shins, and pulled him by the ears, +until the poor fellow almost yelled with the pain. His +tormentor, however, soon silenced him.</p> + +<p>“I won’t have any of your blubbering,” cried he. “If +you don’t stop at once, I’ll give you three days’ extra drill.” +This sort of thing he could do with impunity, as the +adjutant was rarely on the parade-ground during early morning +drill. He appeared at afternoon parade, but paid very +little attention to the recruits, occupying himself mainly +with company drill. So matters continued until our regiment +arrived, and even then there was not much improvement, +for, so long as we remained in Chatham Barracks, the luckless<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"></a>[176]</span> +recruits were always drilled by the same sergeant, none of +them daring to complain, from fear lest worse things should +befall them.</p> + +<p>The 2nd Battalion of the 10th Regiment was at that time +commanded by Lieut.-Colonel Annesley, an amiable old gentleman, +with a wife and family, who appeared to engross a good +deal more of his attention than did his regiment. For of +much that was going on he seemed quite ignorant, and it +was purposely kept from him. In fact, the battalion was +really commanded by the senior major, Major Blewitt, the +colonel seldom putting in an appearance except on field +days. Major Blewitt was a very smart officer, and though at +times inclined to severity, exceedingly just. He was very +particular about etiquette, and scarcely ever spoke to a +subaltern, except to give him advice or to reprimand him, +even in the ante-room. I recollect about the only occasion +on which he condescended to address me.</p> + +<p>There was a sub-lieutenant of a West India Regiment, +whom I will call H——, attached at that time to the 10th. +This young gentleman was very fond of écarté, and often +induced me to play with him after mess. We played for +half-a-crown a game, and I found that I generally lost, as +H—— had a perfectly wonderful way of turning up the +king almost every time he dealt. One evening, we were +playing in the ante-room, where Major Blewitt was sitting, +reading a newspaper. Presently, the major looked over the +top of his paper, and observed that it was a pity that we +could not find some better way of passing the time than +playing cards; adding that, if he thought we were playing +for money, he would stop us at once. Soon afterwards, we +finished our rubber, and H—— left the room, upon which +Major Blewitt called me to him and told me that he did not +like to see me playing cards. On one occasion, he said, +he was present when two young officers were playing écarté. +One of them lost persistently the whole evening, but since +they both assured him that they were playing for love, he +did not interfere, though the way the luck continued to run +in one direction was extremely suspicious. Subsequently, he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"></a>[177]</span> +discovered that they had actually been playing for five +hundred pounds a game, and that the loser had been completely +ruined. The major added that, from what he had +seen of H——’s play, he should be very sorry to sit down to +cards with him, and to play with him for anything like high +stakes would be simply madness. The warning he gave me +on this occasion was certainly well justified, for a lieutenant +of the Lincoln’s, named Glass, afterwards lost considerable +sums to H—— at écarté.</p> + +<p>The captains of the regiment did not like Major Blewitt, +who treated them off parade with a certain haughtiness, +as though he were showing them condescension in speaking +to them at all; while the N.C.O.’s, and particularly the +sergeants, were all afraid of him, as he seemed to be aware of +everything that was going on, and was very severe upon +them if they did not treat the men properly.</p> + +<p>One day on parade, when Major Blewitt was in command, +he gave some extraordinary orders, which it was quite impossible +for the regiment to carry out, and later, in the +ante-room, he behaved in a very strange manner. It was +then ascertained that his mind was affected, the result of a +sunstroke which he had had in India. He went away on +sick leave, but six months later had to retire from the Service, +as it was found that he was never likely to recover.</p> + +<p>The next officer in seniority was Major Hudson, who told +me that he had served under my uncle and godfather, +General the Hon. Sir George Cathcart, when the latter was +Governor of the Cape. The major was a very pleasant +man, but he had certain eccentricities, one of which was a +partiality for white kid gloves and patent-leather boots, +which he wore on parade, even in winter. He had little +control over the captains, who did very much as they liked. +One of them was almost perpetually drunk, and led his wife, +a rather pretty woman and very well off, a miserable life, +even going so far as to beat her, it was said. Some of the +subalterns also drank a great deal more than was good for +them, and there was one who was drunk on parade on at +least one occasion.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"></a>[178]</span></p> + +<p>Little, the senior lieutenant and adjutant, was, however, +a very nice fellow, as well as a good soldier, and the same +could be said for two other subalterns, Archibald Glen and +De Houghton. The former was six feet seven in height, +and reputed to be the tallest man in the Army. I liked him +exceedingly, but, unfortunately, he soon left the regiment +for the Staff College. De Houghton, who afterwards became +a baronet, had received the Gold Medal of the Royal Humane +Society for saving life at sea.</p> + +<p>There was a subaltern in the 10th who prided himself +on his knowledge of French. Once, when the regiment was +stationed at Malta, a French warship happened to call there, +and the officers were invited by the 10th to dinner. This +lieutenant, being the best French scholar, was placed between +the captain of the warship and another French officer. Presently, +the captain asked him in French how long he had been +at Malta, to which he replied, without hesitation, while +everybody pricked up their ears to listen:—</p> + +<p>“<i>Je suis un âne ici.</i>” (“I am an ass here.”)</p> + +<p>The French captain tried to look serious, but the other +French officers burst into fits of laughter. One of them +spoke a little English and explained to the company what +the joke was, when they all joined in the merriment. +Needless to say, this misadventure remained ever afterwards +a standing joke against the unfortunate lieutenant.</p> + +<p>Life at Chatham was very monotonous. Of society there +was practically none, and, as the married ladies of the regiment +were not on good terms with one another, there was +little or no entertaining among the 10th. There was no +theatre and only a couple of low-class music-halls. I went +once to one of them, where there was a box reserved for the +officers of the garrison, but did not feel inclined to repeat +the visit.</p> + +<p>While I was at Chatham, a big ball was given in the officers’ +mess-room at the barracks by the regiments forming the +garrison. A good many people came down from London, +and were conveyed back by a special train after the ball was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"></a>[179]</span> +over. I invited my friends from Dover, and the two elder +girls, Augusta and Ida, were, as usual, much admired. The +affair was a great success, and the supper was on the most +lavish scale, with plovers’ eggs and every imaginable delicacy +and champagne flowing like water.</p> + +<p>In due course, Dillon and I were put to company drill. +On one occasion I got my company into a hopeless position, +up against a wall, and not knowing what to do, told them +calmly “to stand at ease,” to the great amusement of everyone, +including the adjutant, who told the story against me +at mess that night, observing that I must evidently be a +person of resource, as anyone else would have been at a loss +how to act.</p> + +<p>A good many field-days took place at Chatham, of which +the escalading of some high walls was a feature. I had +sometimes to carry the colours in escalading these walls, a +task which I did not much relish, as it was by no means an +easy one.</p> + +<p>I was growing so tired of Chatham that I was quite glad +when I was sent with the rest of my company to Gravesend, +to go through a six weeks’ musketry course. I was constantly +with Captain Byron, whom I very much liked, +indeed, I preferred him to anyone else in the regiment, even +to Dillon. Byron used to tell me that I was very foolish to +leave the regiment, for one day he would, he thought, be in +command, and then I should have a very good time of it. +But my relatives were anxious for me to serve in one of the +regiments for which my name had been put down on the +Prince of Wales’s private list, so I thought I was bound to +accept the transfer when the offer came, which I was sure +would be very soon.</p> + +<p>While at Gravesend, I went up to town to see Aimée +Desclée act in <i>Diane de Lys</i>, by Alexandre Dumas <i>fils</i>. I +thought her the finest actress I had ever seen, with the exception, +perhaps, of Sarah Bernhardt. She played the part with +so much delicacy and refinement, her voice was so pleasing +and her attitudes so graceful, that I was altogether charmed +with her. Poor woman! She died very soon afterwards<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"></a>[180]</span> +from a chest complaint, while quite young. I was much +pleased with an American actor, J. K. Emmett, at the St. +James’s Theatre, who played with a little child, singing a +song in which the refrain was: “Schneider, how you vas.” +I also paid more than one visit to the Opera at Covent Garden, +where Adelina Patti and Scalchi and the tenor Gayarré were +delighting the audience.</p> + +<p>On my return to Chatham I found the work very hard. +The most trying part of it was being on guard at the barracks, +where I was obliged to be on duty once a week for the whole +twenty-four hours. The guard used to be turned out +two or three times during the day, and also in the middle of +the night, by the field-officer of the week, who sometimes +made his round at one or two o’clock in the morning, when +the subaltern on duty had to turn out the guard, besides +having to go his round of the sentries. The officer on guard +was not allowed to go to bed or take his clothes off, even after +the field-officer had made his round of inspection, or he might +get into the most serious trouble. There were other guards +at some distance from Chatham, to look after the convicts, +but this was during the day, and not nearly so trying as to be +on guard at the barracks.</p> + +<p>Not long after my return to Chatham, Dillon and I were +sent to Sandhurst, for a six months’ course of instruction. +But before going, at my relatives’ suggestion, I went up to +town to see the Military Secretary of the War Office, who was +then General Cartwright, to inquire what chance I had of +being transferred to the Rifle Brigade. He asked me what +influence I had, when I mentioned the Adjutant-General, +Lord Airey, who had already presented me at a levée to the +Prince of Wales, while I was stationed at Shorncliffe. General +Cartwright then inquired if I had not any other interest, +remarking that the Scots Guards were more easy to enter +than either the Rifle Brigade or the 60th Rifles, and that, +unless I had someone else behind me, he feared my chance +would be but a poor one. I then told him that my cousin, +the Hon. Emily Cathcart, maid of honour to Queen Victoria, +had had my name put down for both the Rifle regiments,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"></a>[181]</span> +by General Ponsonby, on the Prince of Wales’s private list, +upon which he smiled and said:—</p> + +<p>“She could get you into either of these; in fact, she +could get you into anything she pleased. If you had +mentioned her name before, I could have told you so +at once.”</p> + +<p>I found life at Sandhurst very much like being at school +again, with more restrictions than there were at Eton. There +was a great deal of “ragging” going on, and some fellows +had their furniture and everything in their rooms broken. +I was fortunate in being, for some unaccountable reason, +rather popular with the ringleaders—not that I assisted them +in any way, for this sort of horse-play did not appeal to me—and +so escaped being one of their victims. Dillon was not +so lucky, as at first he showed fight, but he soon recognized +that the wisest course was to assume indifference. There +were several sub-lieutenants of the Guards and cavalry regiments +at Sandhurst, one or two of whom had been at Eton +with me, and I made many friendships, one with a young +fellow in the 78th Highlanders, with whom I often took long +walks into the pretty country around Sandhurst. Apart +from the instruction, I rather enjoyed my time at the college, +as I got on well with nearly everyone. I had to go through +the riding-school and ride horses over jumps without +stirrups, which rather amused me, although there were +some officers who disliked this part of the curriculum +very much.</p> + +<p>After I had been about a month at Sandhurst, the Military +Governor of the College, General Sir A. Alison, sent for me +and told me that I had been transferred to the 2nd Battalion +of the 60th Rifles, stationed in India. I must confess that +I was at first rather disappointed, as it was not the regiment +I had asked for, and I did not much like the idea of going to +India. I asked General Alison what I had better do, when +he said that he would telegraph to the War Office, and that +I ought to finish my course of instruction at Sandhurst. +I anxiously awaited the reply; and the following day he sent +for me again, and told me that I must leave at once and get<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"></a>[182]</span> +ready to sail for India, but that he thought the War Office +would allow me a month to procure my outfit.</p> + +<p>Next day I left Sandhurst for London, and, having obtained +a month’s leave, proceeded to Paris to visit my +parents in the Rue d’Albe, Champs-Elysées. They, and my +father in particular, told me that I had better accept the +transfer, as I might have to wait a long time for the Rifle +Brigade, and the Military Secretary had told me that I was +appointed to the first vacancy that had occurred, as there +was no vacancy in the Rifle Brigade then.</p> + +<p>During my stay in Paris, I often rode in the Bois with my +father on a fiery thoroughbred chestnut, whom I found a very +different kind of mount from the horses at Sandhurst, as he +started at the least touch of my heel, whereas the others had +required both whip and spur. I made the most of my time, +going often to the Théâtre-Français, where I saw Delaunay +in plays by Alfred de Musset and Alexandre Dumas <i>fils</i>, +and was delighted with his acting. He was the best <i>jeune +premier</i> whom I ever saw, and always excellent in the art +of stage love-making. I went to several balls and indulged +in some flirtations with both French and American damsels, +and was sorry when the day arrived that I had to take my +departure for London to purchase my outfit for India. My +mother was distressed at my having to go to India, particularly +as the battalion had to stay out there for some years, +and she was in very delicate health at that time.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"></a>[183]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<p class="center">I sail for India—Kandy—Dangerous Playmates—I arrive at +Murree</p> + +</div> + +<p>My father accompanied me to Portsmouth in the +winter of 1873, where the troopship in which I +was to sail for India was lying. We had first to touch at +Queenstown, to embark a line regiment which had been +ordered to Ceylon, and had a very unpleasant crossing, nearly +everyone on board being ill. I had to share a cabin with two +other sub-lieutenants, who joined the ship at Queenstown. +One of them, named Basil Montgomery, was in my own +regiment, having recently been transferred from the Highland +Light Infantry. He was very tall, for which reason he +was nicknamed “Longfellow” on board. The name of +the other sub-lieutenant, who belonged to the 16th Lancers, +was Babington, which, owing to his somewhat youthful +appearance, was promptly abbreviated to “Baby.” I +myself duly received the sobriquet of “Julie,” as Montgomery +declared I was in the habit of murmuring this name in my +dreams. It was that of a young lady whom I have mentioned +in my book, “Society Recollections in Paris and Vienna,” +and whom I had lately met frequently in society in Paris.</p> + +<p>The cabin we occupied was very small, and contained only +one wash-basin, so we had to dress and wash one at a time; +but we soon got used to this inconvenience.</p> + +<p>Montgomery and Babington were both excellent fellows, +and I was soon on very friendly terms with them, as I was +also with another sub-lieutenant of the 16th Lancers, named +Taaffe. Taaffe was very musical, having a good voice and +playing the concertina capitally. The daughter of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"></a>[184]</span> +colonel of the line regiment we had on board, an extremely +pretty and very impressionable damsel of seventeen, fell +very much in love with him, and they used to sing duets +together, to the accompaniment of Taaffe’s concertina.</p> + +<p>We had fine weather in the Bay of Biscay, where it is usually +so rough, for which we were thankful. At Gibraltar we +merely stopped for an hour to coal, but at Malta we stayed +long enough for everyone to go on shore. Many of us dined +at the Club and went to the Opera afterwards, which I thought +very fair. The climate of Malta seemed delightful, but the +town did not strike me as pretty.</p> + +<p>Not long after leaving Malta, bad weather and a dense fog +came on, and something went wrong with the machinery, +so that the captain did not know where we were. He was +so alarmed that he ordered the chaplain to read the prayers +for those in peril at sea, as at any moment he thought the +ship might run on a rock. Happily, the machinery was repaired, +and at the end of three days the weather improved, +and the danger was over.</p> + +<p>At Port Said most of the officers went ashore, and some of +them visited a gambling-house which bore a very evil reputation, +an officer belonging to the 16th Lancers having been +stabbed there the year before. Taaffe and I were among +those who went, though Taaffe confessed to me that he felt +rather nervous, fearing that some of the natives might recognize +his uniform as that of the unfortunate officer’s regiment.</p> + +<p>At Ismailia we caught sight of M. de Lesseps, who sent an +invitation to the ship, inviting six of us to visit him. Many +of the officers thought that I ought to go, as I was the only +one who could speak French; but this suggestion was overruled, +and it was decided that the six must be chosen by +seniority. As not one of them could speak French, and +M. de Lesseps did not understand English, the interview must +have proved a somewhat comic affair; at any rate, the six +maintained a suspicious silence about it on their return.</p> + +<p>Soon after we had passed through the Red Sea, which did +not prove nearly so hot as we had expected, I fell ill with +scurvy, and the doctor who attended me advised me to sleep<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"></a>[185]</span> +in the passage near the ladies’ saloon, as the air was purer. +However, an old dame objected to my sleeping so near the +ladies, so the doctor got me a cabin to myself. On our +arrival at Colombo, where the line regiment was disembarked, +he obtained leave for me to go to Kandy and remain there +until the ship sailed for Bombay.</p> + +<p>While at Kandy, I went with Taaffe, who had joined me +there, and two ladies to see the beautiful garden of Paradhenia, +which is said to be the original garden of Paradise. We +were all amazed at its beauty; the tropical plants and the +vegetation being indescribably lovely. While walking in +the high grass, one of the ladies was bitten by leeches, which +crawled up her legs and frightened her terribly. She was +fortunate, however, not to have been bitten by something +much more objectionable, as we afterwards learned that it +was very dangerous to walk in the high grass, as it was infested +by snakes, some of which were most venomous.</p> + +<p>The grandeur of the scenery at Kandy and the wonderful +vegetation enchanted us, as we had never seen anything to +compare with it; it was indeed quite a paradise upon earth. +The climate was also delicious, and even in the middle of +the day the heat could not be called oppressive, while the +mornings and evenings were truly delightful. The residents, +however, told us that it was very trying to the health, as it +never varied in the least, summer or winter. The scenery +between Colombo and Kandy was in parts most exquisite, +and the brilliant colouring of the flowers, which were of every +imaginable hue, made one almost believe oneself in fairyland.</p> + +<p>Having embarked the infantry battalion which had been +relieved by the one we had brought from England, we sailed +from Colombo, but after proceeding some little way along +the coast, the troopship stopped for half an hour, to enable +an officer who had to join his regiment to embark in a launch +which came out to fetch him. This officer took with him +by mistake a lady’s trunk containing her dresses and underclothing, +instead of his own, packed with his kit, which he +left for the lady. The latter was in despair, particularly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"></a>[186]</span> +when informed that she was unlikely to receive any news +of her property for six weeks at least.</p> + +<p>After a voyage of six weeks, we reached Bombay, and, +after a little trouble at the Custom House over some Turkish +cigarettes which I had brought with me, and upon which, to +my surprise, I was obliged to pay duty, proceeded, with some +other officers, to Watson’s Hotel. At “Watson’s,” which +I found very expensive indeed, I met Viscount Baring, +of the Rifle Brigade, who had been at Eton with me. He +told me that he was now on the Viceroy’s Staff, and had +come to Bombay to purchase some Arab horses for Lord +Northbrook. Although it was winter, the heat was very +great in Bombay, which I found very uninteresting, and, +after a stay of two or three days, I set out for Murree, in the +hills in the North-West Provinces, where my regiment was +stationed.</p> + +<p>I had as a travelling companion for the first part of the +journey a Staff-officer named Parker, who, on our arrival +at Mean Meer, invited me to accompany him to the house +of his brother-in-law, a judge, where I was most hospitably +entertained, and tasted for the first time a real Indian curry, +which I thought delicious. From Mean Meer I took the +train to Rawal Pindi, in the Punjab. On my arrival, I went +to the dâk bungalow, where soon afterwards I received +a visit from a lieutenant in my regiment named Beauclerk, +a son of Lord Amelius Beauclerk. He was an exceedingly +good-looking young man, with fair hair and moustache and +a very pleasant manner, and was most kind, offering me a +room which he had at his disposal and inviting me to dine +with him in the evening. After dinner I was rather astonished +at seeing his syce walking in front of his master’s pony with +a long stick, having at the end of it several bells, which he +moved about in the grass. I asked the reason of this, when +I was told that it was to frighten away the snakes, of which +there were a great many poisonous ones hereabouts. Beauclerk +told me that, a few nights earlier, he was dining with a +Mrs. Kinloch, the wife of a captain in our regiment, when +he saw a cobra quite close to her. She was playing the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"></a>[187]</span> +piano at the time, and the snake was evidently quite fascinated +by the music. Fearing lest, if she moved, the snake +might bite her, he told her to continue playing, and then, +picking up a stick which happened to be near him, hit the +cobra on the head and killed it. He said that there was +another very dangerous snake called a kerite, which, though +very small, was most venomous, and that Mrs. Kinloch +had found one quite recently in her bed. Happily, she +discovered it before it had a chance to bite her.</p> + +<p>Beauclerk told me that I ought to call upon Captain +Kinloch, who, having passed through the Staff College, +was at that time Acting Deputy Assistant Adjutant-General +at Rawal Pindi. I did so, and was informed +that Mrs. Kinloch only was at home. On being shown into +the drawing-room, I was somewhat astonished to find a +little girl there, playing with two panther-cubs, who snarled +and showed their teeth at me. I asked the child whether +she were not afraid of them, to which she answered:—</p> + +<p>“Oh, no, not at all!” and, opening the mouth of one of +the cubs, thrust her hand into it.</p> + +<p>I began to feel quite alarmed for her safety, and was not +a little relieved when her mother made her appearance upon +the scene.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Kinloch was a very pretty young woman, with auburn +hair and eyes of a greyish-blue colour. She told me that the +panther-cubs had been captured by her husband a few days +before, after he had shot the mother.</p> + +<p>“Are they not lovely?” she exclaimed enthusiastically. +“So beautifully marked in reddish-yellow and black, with +such fascinating yellow and brown eyes. It is delightful to +watch them.”</p> + +<p>I replied that they were certainly very handsome and +graceful animals, but that, nevertheless, I could not understand +her allowing her daughter to have such dangerous +playmates.</p> + +<p>To this she rejoined that she did not consider there was +the slightest danger, so long as you were not afraid of them, +adding:—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"></a>[188]</span></p> + +<p>“My little girl is not the least afraid.”</p> + +<p>The little girl was caressing the cubs at the time, while +the animals were snarling and showing their long, pointed +teeth, though whether in play or not I could not say, as I +was not sufficiently acquainted with their ways.</p> + +<p>Captain Alexander Kinloch, who was a nephew of Sir +Alexander Kinloch, was, I may here remark, the most famous +sportsman in India at that time, and had written a celebrated +book on big game shooting in India and Tibet, which was considered +to be the standard work on the subject. When I met +him afterwards, he told me many interesting things about +Tibet, from which he had brought a fine collection of sporting +trophies. Amongst them were several specimens of the +ibex, which is found on the summits of the highest mountains, +and to “bag” one of which is considered the greatest feat +a sportsman can accomplish in India, since to approach +within rifle-shot of it often entails the greatest risk to life.</p> + +<p>During the few days I remained at Rawal Pindi, I made +the acquaintance of Colonel Montgomery-Moore, then commanding +the 4th Hussars, and his wife, the Hon. Mrs. Montgomery-Moore, +a daughter of Lord Seaton, to whom I had +brought an introduction from my cousin, Emily Cathcart. +They invited me to dinner, when they were most anxious to +hear all the latest news from England, as they had been in +India for some time. They were most kind and agreeable, +and the colonel gave me some valuable information about +Murree.</p> + +<p>There was no railway to Murree, and travellers generally +made the first part of the journey from Rawal Pindi by +carriage, and the rest in a <i>jampan</i> (a kind of sedan-chair) +as the road through the mountains was far too narrow and +precipitate to admit of wheel traffic. I accordingly hired a +carriage, and set off, but at a dâk bungalow, where I stopped +to dine, I met a man, who, on hearing that I was on my way +to Murree, offered to lend me a grey Arab which he was riding, +observing that it would be a more pleasant way of making +the journey than by <i>jampan</i>, and promising to send my +luggage after me. I thanked him and accepted his offer,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"></a>[189]</span> +though, as he was a complete stranger to me, I could not +help feeling some misgivings as to his intentions, for, if he +had a mind to make off with my luggage, there was nothing +to prevent him.</p> + +<p>The road which I had to traverse was very steep and +in places almost impassable, but the Arab appeared well +accustomed to the country and as sure-footed as a goat. +I had, however, a few decidedly unpleasant moments, when, +at a very narrow part of the road, where there was a precipice +on one side, we met some buffaloes, as I thought they might +take into their heads to charge us. But they happened to +be quite peaceably disposed, and we got safely past them. +It was late in the evening when I reached Murree, which I +found covered with snow, as it stands 7,500 feet above sea +level, and no greater contrast with the plains and Rawal +Pindi, where the weather had been quite like summer, could +be conceived. I made my way to the officers’ quarters, +where I was given a room, and my horse well looked after. I +had received instructions from the Arab’s owner to send him +back to the dâk bungalow. This I did the following day, +in the course of which my luggage arrived quite safely, not +a little, I must frankly admit, to my relief.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"></a>[190]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<p class="center">My Brother-Officers—“The Oyster”—In High Society—Our +Menagerie</p> + +</div> + +<p>Murree is a very charming town. The houses, which +bear some resemblance to those of Switzerland, +but are mostly constructed of wood and have rarely more +than two storeys, are built on the summit and sides of a ridge, +and command magnificent views over forests, cultivated +fields, hills and deep valleys, with the snow-capped peaks +of the Himalayas in the distance. There was a fairly good +club at Murree, containing a number of bedrooms for the +convenience of the members when they happened to require +them.</p> + +<p>In the summer months my battalion was not actually +stationed at Murree, but two miles off in the country, at +Kooldunah. The officers lived in houses and villas very +like Swiss cottages, and the men’s quarters were at the top +of a very steep hill, about ten minutes’ walk from the mess. +The battalion was at this time commanded by Lieut.-Colonel +H. P. Montgomery, who had a brother in the Rifle Brigade. +Colonel Montgomery, who was a fine-looking man of about +fifty-five and wore a pointed beard which was beginning +to turn grey, was universally popular, as he was a thorough +soldier and devoted to his profession. He did everything +possible to make his battalion as efficient as any in the +Service, and prided himself upon its smart appearance and +perfect discipline. He had the eye of a hawk for mistakes +on parade, but would correct those responsible for them +in a good-humoured, kindly manner, very different from +some less experienced C.O.’s, who would often lose their +tempers and swear when anything happened to go wrong.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"></a>[191]</span></p> + +<p>The senior major, Major Ashburnham, the son of a baronet, +was of somewhat striking appearance, having red hair and a +red beard. Like his chief, he was a first-rate soldier and a +thorough gentleman both on and off parade, and held in +high esteem by the officers and men under him. He was +known to his intimates by the nickname of “Brittles,” +about which he used to relate an amusing story:—</p> + +<p>Once, when returning to India after being on leave in +England, he happened to meet on board the P. and O., +a man whose acquaintance he had made on the voyage +home, when he had been accompanied by some brother-officers, +who had, of course, always addressed him as +“Brittles.” This man, who was bringing his wife out with +him, asked permission to present Ashburnham to the lady, +and gravely introduced him as “Major Brittles,” under +the impression that such was really his name.</p> + +<p>The junior major, whose name was Algar, was a very +plain man, rather badly marked with the small-pox, and was +by no means so popular as Ashburnham. He was a very keen +sportsman, and when off duty was seldom to be seen without +a rifle in his hand. One day I met him near Murree, when +he told me that he had just seen a tiger, but that it had +made off, adding that a tiger would nearly always run away +from a man, unless he first attacked it.</p> + +<p>The captains were nearly all very nice fellows. Captain +Pauli, into whose company I was put, was a tall and very +muscular man, with a pointed beard, which gave him a +somewhat foreign appearance. He was a great sportsman, +but kept very much to himself, and, except at mess, the other +officers saw little of him.</p> + +<p>The adjutant, Sydenham-Clarke, was a very good-looking +fellow and always so beautifully turned out, whether in uniform +or plain clothes, that he looked as if he had just come +out of a band-box. He was very kind to the young officers +at their drill and took the greatest pains with them. He +was also much liked by the men, and did not bully them or +allow the sergeants to do so, as was unfortunately the case +in so many regiments at that time. In a word, he was the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"></a>[192]</span> +right man in the right place, and how rarely this happens +in the Service few people would imagine.</p> + +<p>When I first came to Murree, I occupied a room in the +officers’ quarters. There was a large room on the ground +floor which was unoccupied, and, as it was so intensely +cold, the subalterns amused themselves by playing a game +of battledore and shuttle-cock across a net. Hubert Lovett, +a sub-lieutenant who joined the battalion a week after I +did, and myself were the first to think of this game, which +somewhat resembled lawn-tennis in the way we served. It +was taken up afterwards by many officers who dined at our +mess, and is said to have given the idea of lawn-tennis to +the inventor.</p> + +<p>Soon after my arrival at Murree, I fell ill with dysentery, +owing, the doctor who attended me told me, to the sudden +change of climate. I was laid up for some time, but when +it began to grow warmer I gradually recovered.</p> + +<p>The winter was a very severe one at Murree, and those who +were fond of skating had excellent opportunities for indulging +in this pastime. Fiennes-Dickenson, a lieutenant who had +been transferred from the first battalion of the regiment, +which was then stationed in Canada, was a most accomplished +performer on the ice, cutting figures and the letters +of the alphabet as well, and MacCall, a captain, who had also +come from the first battalion, was but little inferior to him. +Dickenson told me that life at Quebec and Montreal was uncommonly +pleasant, and that they scarcely felt the intense +cold there at all, as the climate was so dry, and there was +so little wind. He said that it was the custom there for every +officer to have a girl “chum,” who went tobogganing and +skating with him and shared all his amusements. But he +never married this young lady, who always ended by marrying +someone else. This “chum” was a girl usually belonging +to society, and was invited to all the balls and parties given +by the regiment and considered quite <i>comme il faut</i>. Dickenson +added that he much preferred the life out in Canada +to the life in India, though Murree was the very best station, +which was generally only given to a crack regiment. Dickenson<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a>[193]</span> +was a lieutenant of some years’ standing and very well +off, having succeeded to a fine property of his uncle, Lord +Saye and Sele, called Syston Court, near Bristol, although +his father, with whom he was not on the best of terms, had +the right of residing there during his lifetime. He was a +great talker and his conversation was often very amusing.</p> + +<p>When summer came, the battalion moved to Kooldunah, +where I occupied rooms in a small villa with a garden attached, +in which Lovett and another sub-lieutenant named Sanford +also had their quarters. Later on, we were joined by a young +officer named Wilson, who had been transferred from a line +regiment. We got on pretty well together, particularly +Lovett and myself, who soon became great friends, and were +constantly together. Lovett was a strongly-built young +fellow, with black, curly hair, very white teeth, and a good-humoured +expression. He was clean-shaven, which was rare +at that time for a soldier. He had a very loud voice, and when +he laughed he did it so heartily that everyone in the room +used to turn round. He was quite colour-blind and never +could distinguish one colour from another. Once he had to +paint a river for a plan which he was required to draw, and +would have painted it red instead of blue, if I had not been +helping him.</p> + +<p>Sanford was quite a boy, without any hair on his face, +tall and fair, with rather a large mouth, for which reason +he was called “The Oyster.” One day, when he happened +to be on duty, a rifleman was overheard by Lovett to say +to another:</p> + +<p>“Who is on duty to-day: Lovett or Wilson?”</p> + +<p>“Neither,” was the answer, “it’s ‘The Oyster.’”</p> + +<p>Much to Sanford’s annoyance, Lovett, roaring, as usual, +with laughter, told the story at mess that night, and +remarked:—</p> + +<p>“Why, even all the riflemen call him ‘The Oyster’ now!”</p> + +<p>Sanford did not like me at all, because he suspected that +it was I who had been the first to bestow this nickname +upon him, and it is quite possible that his suspicions may +have been correct, though I cannot be certain.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span></p> + +<p>Wilson, the remaining occupant of our villa, was a rather +good-looking and very smart young fellow, who spoke +Hindustani very fluently. But he was very conceited, and +imagined himself a much greater sportsman than he was. +Once, when he had been on leave to Kashmir, he returned +with such a wonderful collection of big game trophies that +none of us could bring himself to believe that they had all +fallen to his own rifle, and MacCall said to him at mess:—“Wilson, +I tell you what it is—you have bought all that +big game from some <i>shikarri</i> in Kashmir!” At this +remark Wilson became furious, and next morning, in the +orderly-room, reported the incident to the Colonel, when MacCall +was put under arrest until he had apologized to his aggrieved +brother-officer. This, however, did not cause him +to change his opinion on the subject.</p> + +<p>MacCall, whose father was Equerry to the Duc d’Aumale, +spoke French perfectly, wore an imperial with his moustache, +and might easily have been mistaken for a Frenchman. He +shared a villa with a sub-lieutenant named Arthur Powys +Vaughan, an exceedingly nice fellow, who had been at Harrow +and had taken his degree at Oxford before entering the +Service.</p> + +<p>With the exception of our medico, Surgeon-Major Macnamara, +the quartermaster, Fitzherbert, and the junior +major, whose wife was in England, all the officers were +bachelors. Consequently, we were very badly off in the +matter of ladies’ society, so far as the battalion was concerned. +Mrs. Macnamara, who was a sister of Sir Howard +Elphinstone, Equerry to the Duke of Edinburgh, was a +very charming elderly lady, and I often used to go and take +tea with her and her husband. She was partly Russian +by birth and extremely musical, and took a great interest in +the regimental band, in regard to which she was frequently +consulted. I was put on the band committee and often +attended the rehearsals of a morning.</p> + +<p>Lovett and I used to pay visits to ladies whom we thought +we would care to know, as is the custom in India. One +day, we called on two ladies who had a charming villa, beautifully<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"></a>[195]</span> +furnished, and whom we rather admired, though +we knew nothing whatever about them. They received us +very coldly, at which we were surprised, until Mrs. Macnamara +told us that they were two very fast ladies, who +were protected by some well-known officers in Murree, +holding very high positions on the Staff.</p> + +<p>When I was alone one day, I noticed a very pretty woman, +upon whom I left my card. A few days later, I received a +very friendly note from her, asking me to dine with her on +a certain evening. However, in the meantime, I sprained +my ankle, and was put on the sick list, and therefore not +allowed to go out. But, I thought that, as it would probably +be a <i>tête-à-tête</i> dinner, which I should not like to miss, I +would go in a <i>jampan</i>, carried by two men, and no one +would be any the wiser. I hesitated whether to go in plain +clothes or in mess uniform, but finally decided for the latter. +I had not made any special effort to be punctual, and, in +point of fact, arrived half an hour late. On entering the +drawing-room, I found quite a number of people impatiently +awaiting the advent of the belated guest, amongst whom +I recognized, to my consternation, the General commanding +the troops in the Punjab; and I was still more taken aback +when I learned that I was dining with the Secretary of +State for India, and that my hostess was his wife! However, +these great people were very nice to me, and the General, +who did not seem at all to resent my having kept him +waiting for his dinner, asked me several questions about my +colonel and regiment, as, though there were several other +officers present, I was the only “Greenjacket.” For this +I was duly thankful, since if one of the senior officers of my +battalion had happened to be there, I should have got into +trouble for going out to dine when I was on the sick list.</p> + +<p>It was the custom to take your <i>khitmagar</i> with you when +you dined out, and I did so on this occasion. The next +evening at mess, I noticed my <i>khitmagar</i> opening a bottle of +Château-Laffitte for me, and asked him where he got it +from.</p> + +<p>“I saw last night that <i>Sahib</i> liked this wine the best,”<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"></a>[196]</span> +he replied, “so I brought half a dozen bottles of it away +from the dinner-party for <i>Sahib</i>!”</p> + +<p>I burst out laughing, thinking to myself that I could not +well scold my servant for looking after me so attentively.</p> + +<p><i>À propos</i> of native servants, when I first joined the +battalion, I had a Christian “bearer,” whom I had brought +from Bombay, and who spoke English. But at the end of +my first month at Murree, when I saw my mess-bill, I discovered +that a quantity of brandies and sodas were charged +for which I had never had. When I called my “bearer’s” +attention to this, he incontinently bolted from Murree, +taking some of my property with him. However, he was +eventually laid by the heels, and I had to ask for leave +off parade to go down to the Law Courts at Murree to prosecute +him. This taught me that it is better not to engage +“bearers” who talk English and call themselves Christians.</p> + +<p>Among the senior lieutenants in the battalion was Albert +Phipps, a brother of the Hon. Harriet Phipps, maid of +honour to Queen Victoria, with whom, as I have mentioned +elsewhere, I once took tea at Windsor Castle in my Eton +days. Phipps, who was fair and rather stout and always +wore an eyeglass, was a godson of the Prince Consort, the +only one who was still alive. He once told me that Queen +Victoria had written a letter in her own hand, recommending +him for an appointment with the Viceroy, but that the +officer who was specially charged with its delivery had the +misfortune to lose it. Rather than permit this officer to be +punished for his negligence, as he undoubtedly would have +been, Phipps refused to allow his sister to mention the matter +to Her Majesty, and suffered in silence the loss of an appointment +which was not only a very agreeable one, but would +have meant a great increase of pay. How many men would +have acted as nobly as he did? Very few, I am afraid.</p> + +<p>One night, while riding home after mess, along a very +dark road, Phipps’s horse fell with him. He was not hurt, +but his eyeglass was broken in two, and as he could not +get another one in India, he wore half an eyeglass for about +three months, until a fresh supply was sent from England.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"></a>[197]</span></p> + +<p>At the villa where I lived in the summer months we kept +several animals, including a wild cat, which was very savage +and nearly as big as a wolf, a bear, which we tried to tame, +a hyena and a monkey. These animals belonged to Wilson, +who one day let the bear loose, and we had considerable +trouble in recapturing it.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"></a>[198]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<p class="center">A Subalterns’ Court-Martial—A Terrible Experience—High Mess-bills</p> + +</div> + +<p>Amongst our amusements at Murree were balls, +which were given periodically at the Club by the +officers of the battalion. Although the majority of the +fair guests were married women, there was always a sprinkling +of unmarried ones amongst them, most of whom had come +out to India in the hope of finding husbands. The band +of the regiment furnished the music, and there was always +a very good supper, with an abundance of champagne and +other wines, so that they were very enjoyable affairs indeed. +After one of these balls a most unpleasant incident occurred.</p> + +<p>It happened that I had danced with a Miss W——, a +very pretty and attractive girl, whom, later in the evening, +I saw dancing with a young officer whom I will call Eugene, +and who, I noticed, appeared very much <i>épris</i> with the damsel. +Next day, to my profound astonishment, I was placed +under arrest, and told that I must appear before the Colonel. +When I did so, he informed me that Eugene had told him +that this Miss W—— had complained to him that I had +insulted her. I indignantly protested my innocence, but +the Colonel told me that, though he did not doubt my word, +I must, nevertheless, write a letter to the young lady, asking +her pardon, if I had unintentionally given offence. I wrote +the letter and sent it to Miss W——, but received no +reply.</p> + +<p>At a garden-party given by the battalion a few days later, +I saw the lady whom I was supposed to have insulted. I +hesitated whether to speak to her or not, but finally decided<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"></a>[199]</span> +that it was best to do so and inquire why she had not +answered my letter.</p> + +<p>“I don’t know why you wrote to me,” said she, “and, +to tell you the truth, I don’t in the least understand what +you meant in your letter.”</p> + +<p>I then explained everything to her, when she exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“I am extremely angry with Eugene. He must have +invented what he told your Colonel, and so soon as I go +home, I shall write to Colonel Montgomery, and tell him that +the whole matter is a mere fabrication of Eugene. I am +sorry that you should have suffered through the abominable +untruths of a silly boy.”</p> + +<p>Miss W—— was as good as her word, and the Colonel +read her letter to Eugene and myself, in the presence of all +the other officers. He said that Eugene had acted in a +most ungentlemanly manner, and deserved to be severely +punished for spreading about false reports calculated to +injure a brother-officer. He concluded by hinting that the +subalterns would best know how to deal with him.</p> + +<p>The hint, needless to say, was not lost upon these young +gentlemen, and after mess Eugene was informed that he +must appear before a court-martial that evening, in the +villa where I lived. The president of the court-martial was +a sub-lieutenant named Basil Montgomery, who was no +relation of the Colonel, but the son of a Scottish baronet. +Wilson acted as prosecutor, while Lovett defended the +prisoner.</p> + +<p>Eugene was brought in between two subalterns, and the +charges against him were read to the Court. The principal +charge was: “Conduct not befitting an officer and a gentleman, +in having accused a brother-officer wrongfully, thus +subjecting him to arrest and further possible inconvenience”; +but there were several others. The Court found the prisoner +“Guilty,” with no extenuating circumstances, and sentenced +him to receive ten strokes with a cane on his bare back +from each sub-lieutenant, to be sent to Coventry for one +month, and not to be allowed to attend any balls or garden-parties +during that period. Eugene took his punishment<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"></a>[200]</span> +very well. The corporal part of it was probably less hard +to endure than the deprivation of all social amusements +and the ostracism to which he was subjected. It had, +however, a very beneficial effect upon him, and he showed +afterwards a very noticeable improvement in every respect. +Eugene, I may mention, was a very good horseman, and +rode in steeplechases, both in England and in India.</p> + +<p>Montgomery, who was the president of the court-martial +upon Eugene, had come out to India by the same troopship +as myself, but he did not join the battalion until much +later, as he was taken ill at Bombay, where he had to remain +for some weeks. He suffered a good deal, as I had done, +from the change of climate when he first came to Murree. +He was a very fine young fellow, about 6 feet 2 inches in +height, and a most perfect gentleman, though perhaps he +put on a little too much “side” at times. A good many +years later, he succeeded to the baronetcy, his brother, who +was in the Guards, having met with an accident which +proved fatal.</p> + +<p>After a ball at the Murree Club one night, just as I was +preparing to ride back to my quarters, a tremendous thunderstorm +came on. I waited for some little time, but, as there +seemed no immediate prospect of the storm abating, I +decided to face it, but told my syce, who was waiting for +me with my pony, that I would take a short cut home, +instead of going by the usual road. The syce walked in +front of me, carrying a lantern to light up the way, as it +was a very dangerous path, with a most fearsome abyss on +one side, and in places so narrow that there was only just +room for a pony to walk along it. Suddenly, the lantern +which the syce carried went out, and, as neither of us had +any matches with which to relight it, we were plunged into +total darkness, only relieved from time to time by flashes +of lightning. The pony all of a sudden stood stock still +and refused to go on, and, on dismounting, I saw through +a flash of lightning a tree lying right across the path. I +therefore thought it safer to proceed on foot, leading the +pony, while my syce went in front; and we continued thus<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"></a>[201]</span> +for nearly a mile, not knowing whether the next step would +not plunge us into Eternity. But providentially at intervals +came flashes of lightning, which made it easier for us to +advance. At last we reached the end of the path, and made +our way to the villa, drenched to the skin, but heartily +thankful to find ourselves in safety. We had, indeed, had +a terrible experience, and when I told Lovett that I had +come home by the short cut, he would hardly believe it +possible, as the night was so dark and the path so narrow.</p> + +<p>During the rainy season Murree was anything but a pleasant +spot, for it rained without intermission for days and nights +together, until the place resembled a wide river. All parades +were suspended during the rains, but the officers had to +go out to perform their duties and to mess and back; +and, though we were protected by india-rubber coats and +goloshes, it was very disagreeable. The men’s quarters +were, as I have mentioned, situated at the top of a very +steep hill, and although, since Colonel H. P. Montgomery +had been in command of our battalion, he had a zigzag +road constructed, so that the ascent might be made gradually, +it was always rather an undertaking for the orderly officer +to ascend the hill after mess to turn out the guard, and in +wet weather it was simply detestable. The descent, too, +was very dangerous, as the road was terribly slippery, and +several accidents happened to both men and officers.</p> + +<p>The officers’ mess was at the foot of this hill, and on a +clear day the view from it was one of the grandest one can +possibly imagine, for the air is so rarefied that it enables +one to see further than one could otherwise. The towering +peaks of the Himalayas, plainly visible, despite the immense +distance, the dazzling whiteness of the snow, and the deep +blue of the heavens, made a wonderful picture. But grand +as the view is, I almost prefer that from the Kurhaus, at +Ischl, though it is on a much smaller scale. It is almost +like comparing the beauty of an orchid to a rose, which, +though less sublime in its appearance, captivates the senses +far more. There is something foreign in this Oriental +scenery, which appeals less to an Englishman than the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"></a>[202]</span> +exquisite beauty of Switzerland or the Salzkammergut, in +Austria.</p> + +<p>The General at that time commanding the troops in the +Punjab was an extremely popular general and a friend of +Royalty, but he had made a <i>mésalliance</i>, having married the +divorced wife of a doctor. It was for this reason that he had +been given a command in India, instead of in England. Lieut.-Colonel +Montgomery-Moore, who commanded the 4th Hussars +at Rawal Pindi, and who spent the summer months with +his wife at Murree, did not call on the General’s wife, nor +did most of the officers of that regiment, and, as I had been +introduced by my cousin to the Montgomery-Moores, I felt +that I could not well visit the General’s wife. Several of +the officers of my battalion also did not call, though others +were frequent visitors at her house.</p> + +<p>When the General inspected us, our Colonel ordered the +band to play <i>Die Wacht am Rhein</i>, which they played the +whole time out of deference to the Colonel, who was a great +admirer of all things German. Not that he cared for the +air, for as he himself once said, he could only distinguish +two tunes. One was “God save the Queen,” and the other +was any other air, as he had no ear for music at all.</p> + +<p>At this inspection all the officers were called upon singly +to show their ability in taking command, some of the entire +battalion, others of a company. They nearly all acquitted +themselves well, and the General, who was himself an old +Rifleman, complimented the Colonel on the efficiency and +smartness of his battalion, and praised all the officers, N.C.O.’s +and men.</p> + +<p>Our Colonel, as I have said, was a most excellent commanding +officer. At times he would take command of half +of the battalion, while the senior major commanded the +other, and imitate the tactics employed in war, in order to +teach the officers and men how they should conduct themselves +in actual warfare. On several of these occasions, I +acted as his A.D.C., and, mounted on my pony, carried +his orders to the junior major and captains, which I much +enjoyed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"></a>[203]</span></p> + +<p>The mess-bills of the officers of the battalion were so high +during the year that the War Office complained that they +were higher than any cavalry regiment, averaging £20 to +£30 a month. The Colonel therefore requested the officers +to see that they were reduced in future, as it was not pleasant +for him to be accused of encouraging extravagance. The +officers afterwards paid for what they required, and asked +that no champagne should be put down on their mess-bills. +A great deal of champagne was usually drunk at dinner, +particularly by the subalterns, and it cost from fifteen shillings +to a sovereign a bottle. Spirits were very little drunk, and, +taken on the whole, the officers were very temperate, rarely +taking more than was good for them. Among the men there +was very little drunkenness compared with other regiments, +and not a single case of desertion; in fact, there were scarcely +any prisoners at all.</p> + +<p>Lovett and I, who were both anxious to see something +of Kashmir, obtained three days’ leave and set off on horseback. +The country through which we rode was very pretty, +the fields being beautifully green and besprinkled with scarlet +poppies, while the hedges were covered with white roses. +We passed the first night at a dâk bungalow, and starting +at four o’clock the following morning, in order to avoid +the heat of the sun, rode until midday, and then rested at +another dâk bungalow until evening. Resuming our journey, +we presently entered a lovely valley, with a river flowing +through it. This river, the Jhelum, separated British India +from Kashmir, and the view from the dâk bungalow at +Kohala, on the Indian side, to which we made our way, +after refreshing ourselves by a swim in the cool water, was +very beautiful. The heat in the bungalow was intense, +though they employed <i>punkahs</i> to relieve the discomfort we +suffered, and towards midnight a terrific storm burst, the +crashes of thunder being the loudest I had ever heard, while +the lightning was so vivid that it lit up the whole of the +surrounding country.</p> + +<p>We spent the next day in bathing and fishing in +the river Jhelum, and, after dining at the bungalow at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a>[204]</span> +Kohala, walked across the bridge which spanned the river. +On the Kashmir side we found two sentries posted, who +had been placed there by the Maharajah of Kashmir to +prevent anyone unprovided with a pass entering his dominions. +These sentries raised all sorts of difficulties to +our entering Kashmir, but we crossed over all the same, +and took a long walk in the country, which was very +hilly and rugged, with very narrow paths. When night +came on, we returned to the bungalow, but, having observed +that the two sentries had their beds placed on +the bridge, we determined to get even with them for the +trouble they had given us. Accordingly, we returned to the +bridge, carrying two big buckets full of water, and, finding +both the sentries wrapped in peaceful slumber, dashed the +water over them, and then, having thrown the buckets into +the river, ran for our lives. The luckless sentries, startled +out of their sleep, snatched up their rifles and pursued us. +But they failed to overtake us, and we reached the bungalow +in safety. We were somewhat uneasy lest inquiries should +be made about us at the bungalow, but nothing happened +during the rest of the night, and in the early morning we +set off on our journey back to Murree.</p> + +<p>On our return to Murree, we decided to say nothing of our +escapade in Kashmir, as if the Colonel got to know of it he +would have us placed under arrest. Phipps, whom I told +about it sometime afterwards, remarked that it might possibly +end in officers’ leave to Kashmir being stopped, but, fortunately, +as no one knew who had played the trick upon the +sentries, his fears were not realized.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<p class="center">Sialkote—Amateur Theatricals—An Ingenious Thief—Death +of Albert Phipps—Agra—Voyage to England</p> + +</div> + +<p>In the autumn of 1874 the other sub-lieutenants and +myself had to go through a course of instruction at +Sialkote, in order to qualify as lieutenants. At Rawal Pindi +I called on Mrs. Kinloch, my acquaintance with whom +had been renewed at Murree, where she had been staying. +Not long afterwards, I was shocked to hear that she had +gone out of her mind. She died without recovering her +reason.</p> + +<p>Sialkote is by no means a pretty place, being very flat, +with few trees to temper the rays of the sun. Its ugliness +was, however, relieved to some extent by a view of the +distant mountains. Although it was autumn, the heat was +intense, and in the daytime almost intolerable.</p> + +<p>Lovett, Montgomery and myself occupied a house, which, +though it had one storey, was very large. We were attached +during our stay to the Royal Horse Artillery (“A” Battery, +“A” Brigade) and messed with them. Our instruction +took place in the mornings under Lieutenant Hart, of the +R.E., who put us through a course of surveying, fortification +and tactics. Most of the instruction took place out +of doors. Of an afternoon we generally prepared our work +for the following day, and in the evening we dined at the +R.H.A. mess, which was about ten minutes’ walk from our +house. The officers of “A” Battery were very nice fellows, +particularly Captain Hobart, who commanded it, Lieutenant +Armytage, and Veterinary-Surgeon Batchelor, and did all +they could to make things pleasant for us. The evenings<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"></a>[206]</span> +at mess, however, were rather dull, as so few members dined +there, though at times they were enlivened by the presence +of guests, generally officers from the 5th Lancers, who, with +two infantry battalions and a regiment of Bengal cavalry, +were also stationed at Sialkote.</p> + +<p>The 5th Lancers were a very lively lot, and their mess +was very amusing. On one occasion, after mess, they dragged +a lieutenant over the billiard table, with the result that the +cloth was cut all to pieces by his spurs, and, not content +with this, smashed all the crockery and glass in the mess-room. +One morning, on parade, another lieutenant, who +rode very badly, fell off his horse, whereupon his brother +subalterns “ragged” his room and broke everything they +could lay their hands on. The unfortunate owner, who +had not the sweetest of tempers, took their behaviour in +very ill part, and shortly afterwards exchanged into a Highland +regiment stationed at Gibraltar.</p> + +<p>Some of the 5th Lancers were, however, very nice fellows, +particularly two sub-lieutenants named Russell and Beaumont, +who were very friendly with Montgomery and myself, +and we often dined all together.</p> + +<p>One evening the sub-lieutenants of my battalion invited +Beaumont and Russell to dine at the R.H.A. mess, and afterwards +we all proceeded to our house, where we had prepared +a <i>nautch</i> for them, having sent to the bazaar for a number +of dancing women. These women danced most fantastic +dances, and wound up the entertainment by dancing with +some of the subalterns, who were wearing their white Indian +mess uniforms. The officers of my battalion, I may mention, +had adopted a pink silk sash round the waist, which we wore +instead of a waistcoat, owing to the intense heat.</p> + +<p>The colonel of the 5th Lancers, Lieut.-Colonel Massey, +was popular with all ranks, and one of the captains, Benyon +by name, was a most charming man. C——, another captain, +a very ugly, red-haired man, was most clever and amusing, +but much disliked both by his brother-officers and the men of +the regiment. He often dined at the R.H.A. mess, where +he entertained everyone with his stories after dinner. One<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"></a>[207]</span> +story which he told was of a young fellow who was staying +at a nobleman’s country house, where a lady, with whom +he was in love, gave him an assignation, and agreed to put +a flower in the keyhole of her door when she retired for the +night. Someone, with a predilection for practical jokes, +catching sight of the flower, removed it and placed it in the +keyhole of another door, with the result that the luckless +young fellow invaded the privacy of a judge and his wife. +There was a terrible scandal the next day, and the victim +of this misadventure had to leave the house at once.</p> + +<p>C—— was very fond of botany, and I remember that once, +when I happened to meet him, he showed me a mimosa, which +was so sensitive to the touch that the moment one handled +it it drew in its leaves. He came to a tragic end in South +Africa, where he was shot by one of the men of his troop, +not, it was generally believed, accidentally.</p> + +<p>Armytage, the lieutenant in the R.H.A. whom I have +already mentioned, was the son of a baronet and a very +pleasant fellow. He had a pet dog which he used always +to bring into the mess-room, and which would perform +tricks. He related how once, when he had been ordered on +foreign service, the captain of the troopship, hearing that he +had a dog, objected to his bringing it on board, as he had +made a rule against it. When, however, Armytage showed +him the little dog and made it perform its tricks, the captain +was so amused by them that he said he would make an +exception in this case. Armytage was a good actor, and +used to organize amateur theatricals. One evening, he got +up a play, in which he took the leading part, and acted +very well in the comic style. The other parts were taken by +men of “A” Battery, and the performance, to which a +good many people came, was a distinct success. Afterwards, +a dance was given in the mess-room, but, as there were +about twenty officers to each lady, it was more pleasant for +the ladies than for us. The sub-lieutenants, indeed, went +away as soon as they could, not being at all attracted by +our fair guests, who were mostly past their first youth, +while the few girls present were very plain.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"></a>[208]</span></p> + +<p>There was an excellent polo-ground at Sialkote, and many +of the officers played of an afternoon. There was also a +croquet and lawn-tennis ground, and these games were +played a good deal by ladies in very old-fashioned dresses, +as ladies in India, as a rule, dress very badly and quite out +of date.</p> + +<p>The officers rode home from mess of an evening; and I +used sometimes to make my pony “Chang” mount the steps +of our house, and enter my room, after which he would +go off alone to the stables. Once at Murree, for a bet, I rode +“Chang” up a long flight of steps to a church and down again, +and he never put a foot wrong. Batchelor, the “vet” of +the R.H.A., had a horse which sometimes, on his reaching +the mess-room, he would tell to go home, when the horse +would find its way back to the stables, which were some +distance away.</p> + +<p>Two new sub-lieutenants came to Sialkote to go through +the course. One, named Marsham, an Old Etonian and a +very nice fellow, was in my regiment; the other, whose +name was Wood, belonged to the 4th Hussars. He was +nicknamed “Lakri” (“wood”), as he was of rather swarthy +complexion. Wood had a very nice chestnut pony, which +he often lent me, and one day Lovett remarked that I never +looked so well as on this pony, which seemed to be made for +me. He had another pony, a smaller one, and this he sold +to me. But it had a very nasty temper, and would sometimes +turn its head and try and bite my feet; while it was +continually rearing and kicking, and, in short, was a regular +devil. One evening, when I went to dine at the mess of a +Line regiment, I tied it up to a tree, but it managed to get +rid of its bridle and bolted. It was only with difficulty +caught, when I rode it home again.</p> + +<p>“Eugene,” who had behaved so badly to me over the affair +of Miss W——, was not at Sialkote, having been sent to +another station for his course. While at Murree, he had +fallen desperately in love with a Miss B——, and had proposed +to, and been accepted by, her. But, as he was so +very young, and the lady was not considered a desirable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"></a>[209]</span> +match, the Colonel took the matter up, and the affair was +broken off. At the station he went to he fell in love with +another lady, but this did not come to anything either; and +he nearly broke, not his heart, but his neck, there in riding +a steeplechase. However, eventually he recovered from his +“smash” and rejoined the battalion.</p> + +<p>I became very unwell at Sialkote, from what the doctor +said was a liver complaint. However, it did not much +interfere with my studies, though I was confined to the +house for some time. During this period a curious incident +occurred.</p> + +<p>One morning, I noticed that a candle, which I had placed +by my bedside and blown out just before I fell asleep, was +much shorter than when I had extinguished it. The following +night I carefully noted the length of the candle before +I blew it out, and next morning it was again much shorter. +I could find no explanation of this, as I had locked my +bedroom door before going to bed, until I remembered that +there was a small opening at the bottom of the door, just +large enough to permit a person to wriggle through. But +this did not account for the thief having been able to pass +through my sitting-room, which led to the bedroom, and +the door of which I had also locked. I talked the matter +over with Lovett, who offered to lend me his dog, which +he said was a very good watch-dog and could sleep on my +bed. I accepted his offer, but the animal had so many +fleas that I was kept awake all night, and decided to dispense +with its company in future. The following night I determined +to watch myself, and presently heard someone crawling +through the opening of the door. I at once struck +a light, upon which the intruder promptly crawled back +again. Then everything appeared clear to me. The thief +was none other than my bearer, who had a key to my sitting-room, +which he opened, and then, crawling through the +opening in the bedroom-door, made for my candle, which +he abstracted and replaced by a much smaller piece. The +natives are great pilferers, who will not stop at robbing one +even of a piece of candle.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"></a>[210]</span></p> + +<p>One day, as I was sitting in my room, reading a book by +Jean Paul, it seemed to me that suddenly the room began +to swing to and fro. It proved to be an earthquake, which, +however, did no damage to the town, though it gave everyone +a bad fright.</p> + +<p>Soon after I was able to get about again there was an +interval of three weeks in our course at Sialkote, and all +the sub-lieutenants went away on leave. Montgomery +went to Murree, while Lovett and Marsham started off on +a shooting-expedition. The battalion, which was taking +part in the autumn manœuvres, was under canvas near +Rawal Pindi, and I accepted an invitation to stay with +Surgeon-Major Macnamara and his wife in their tent. The +first evening I dined with them I noticed that I was served +with precisely the dishes I liked, whilst those I did not care +for were not handed to me at all. I inquired of Mrs. Macnamara +the reason of this, when she replied:—</p> + +<p>“I asked your <i>khitmagar</i> when you arrived what you +liked for dinner, and what you did not like. Therefore, +you see, I know now exactly what your taste is.”</p> + +<p>Indeed, nothing could exceed the Macnamaras’ kindness +to me during the whole time I was with them.</p> + +<p>A couple of days later, Phipps invited me to go for a drive +with him, during which he told me that he was returning +to England on leave, when he would get his promotion, and +he doubted whether he would ever come out to India again. +That evening, after dining at mess, I was taken ill, when +Surgeon-Major Macnamara, who attended me, said that I +was suffering from jaundice, and should have to stay in bed +some time. During my illness I received visits from one +of the senior lieutenants named Hope, a grandson of Lord +Hopetoun, who brought me several books to read, amongst +them being “Cranford,” by Mrs. Gaskell, which he particularly +recommended to me, and with which I was delighted. +Lloyd, another senior lieutenant, with the local rank of +captain, often came to see me. He was a very dark, wiry +fellow, of about thirty, and was a great sportsman. He +was going into the Indian Staff Corps, as he spoke several<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"></a>[211]</span> +native languages fluently. Lloyd was a particular friend +of mine, and corresponded with me regularly for years +afterwards.</p> + +<p>One morning, I had a visit from Macnamara, who told me +that Phipps had been taken seriously ill with congestion of +the lungs, the result apparently of a chill which he had +caught on the day I went for a drive with him. A few days +later, I learned from Lloyd that Phipps had died during +the night. When I next saw Macnamara, he remarked:—</p> + +<p>“Phipps was so stout; I knew I could not save him. He +died from suffocation, as he had such a short neck.”</p> + +<p>When I was well enough to dine at mess again, I heard +from the Colonel that, shortly before Phipps was taken ill, +he had been told by the chief that his tunic was looking +rather shabby, to which he had replied:—</p> + +<p>“Oh, sir, it’s good enough to bury me in!”</p> + +<p>He had laughed as he said this, which was a habit of his +when he made any remark which was at all strange.</p> + +<p>A cable was sent to Queen Victoria, as well as to Phipps’s +sister, announcing his death. Her Majesty cabled at once +to the Colonel, asking for all particulars about the sad +event, at which she appears to have been genuinely +grieved.</p> + +<p>I was much cut up by Phipps’s death, and I felt it all the +more keenly, as I had been with him so recently. I remember +how on that occasion he had kept talking of his approaching +return to England, and had observed:—</p> + +<p>“I should have liked it very much in years gone by, but +now I do not look forward to it with half the pleasure I did +then; it may be because I have all my friends out here. +I am so used to living out here with all the fellows, and +they are all so nice, that I don’t think I should go home +now if I had not to do so.”</p> + +<p>Poor Phipps was buried in his old tunic, as he had foretold +in a jesting way to the Colonel. He was barely thirty years +of age.</p> + +<p>After I had quite recovered from jaundice, I returned to +Sialkote, which I did with regret, as I would have much<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"></a>[212]</span> +preferred remaining with my regiment. At Sialkote things +went on very much as before, the only incident worth +recording being an accident to my pony “Chang.”</p> + +<p>This pony, which I had bought soon after coming to +Murree from Sydenham Clarke, the adjutant of our battalion, +had the reputation of being the best polo-pony in India, +and one day Lovett begged me to lend him to him for a +match in which he was to play. I replied that “Chang” +was not up to his weight, and that he would probably lame +him; but, eventually, on his promising most solemnly +to ride him carefully, I consented, though with many misgivings. +Some hours later Lovett came into my room, +looking very crestfallen. I knew at once what had happened, +and exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“You have lamed “Chang!”</p> + +<p>“Yes,” he answered; “I am frightfully sorry; I could +not help it.”</p> + +<p>I ran out of the room to see the pony, who was so lame +that there was no chance of his being of much service afterwards. +However, it was no use blaming Lovett, since it +was my own fault for being so weak as to allow a valuable +animal to be ridden by a man too heavy for him.</p> + +<p>After this mishap, I was obliged to ride my little devil of +a pony when I required a mount at Sialkote, though at +times Lovett lent me his horse, while at others Wood lent +me his good-looking chestnut pony. I made Wood an +offer for this pony, but he declined to part with it at any +price.</p> + +<p>I continued to suffer from liver complaint, and was +attended by Surgeon-Major Clarke, of the R.H.A., who +advised me to try and get sent to England. I subsequently +saw the senior medical officer at Sialkote, who said that I +ought to obtain leave either to the hills or to England. +I appeared before a medical board, who certified in writing +that my illness was caused in and by the Service.</p> + +<p>The Chief Resident at Sialkote offered me the Maharajah +of Kashmir’s shooting, which was usually reserved for royal +personages, and which the Prince of Wales had when in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"></a>[213]</span> +India; but Montgomery urged me strongly to go to England, +and I followed his advice. I had afterwards, as the ensuing +pages will show, good cause to regret my decision.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Sialkote, I made arrangements to sell the +things I did not want; but, on showing the list I had made +out to Batchelor, of the R.H.A., he told me that I ought +to have described them far more elaborately, so as to enhance +their apparent value. I asked if he would describe them +for me, which he did, and, greatly to my amusement, made +everything appear infinitely better than it really was. +However, he said that they would make much better prices +that way, which I found to be the case when the sale took +place. My pony “Chang” I sold to Montgomery, as he +had partially recovered from his lameness.</p> + +<p>On leaving Sialkote, I went by rail to Delhi, where I +visited the Palace, which I thought very beautiful. At +Delhi I called on the officers of a Line regiment stationed +there, and was invited to make use of their mess during +my stay in the city, where great preparations were being +made for an approaching Durbar. I left a few days later +for Cawnpore, and visited the places by the river where +the British were massacred during the Mutiny. On my way +from Cawnpore to Agra, I made the acquaintance of a +French cavalry officer, the Vicomte Arthur d’Assailly, of +the Chasseurs à Cheval, a very smart-looking fellow, more +like an Englishman than a Frenchman, who spoke English +perfectly. The Vicomte told me that at Cawnpore he had +paid several hundred rupees for a <i>nautch</i> in his room, which +he had strewn with rose-leaves. On reaching Agra, we +drove to our hotel through the Bazaar, and in the evening +went to visit the Taj, with which we were quite enchanted. +It was the most magnificent building I had ever seen. +The marble of which it was constructed was of the purest +white, and seen by moonlight, which enhanced the whiteness +of the marble, it was indescribably beautiful; while the +deep blue of the starlit heavens formed a delightful contrast. +It was, in fact, just like a palace of “The Arabian Nights”; +and while strolling about the charming gardens we could<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a>[214]</span> +almost imagine ourselves living in the days of the Khalif +Haroun Alraschid.</p> + +<p>In the train going to Bombay I met an officer of the +Rifle Brigade, named Captain Crompton, a man of about +thirty-five, with grey hair, who was going home on sick +leave. But as, he told me, he was rather doubtful about +being able to pass the medical board at Bombay, he intended +to appear before them just as he was, without going to his +hôtel to change and wash, considering that he would look +more like an invalid in that travel-stained condition.</p> + +<p>He was as good as his word, and obtained six months’ +sick leave without any trouble. As for myself, I went to +Watson’s Hotel, where I was glad to have a bath and change +my clothes, as the journey had been a most unpleasant +one, and I was begrimed with dirt. On appearing before +the board, the senior medical officer asked me various questions, +to which I must have answered too laconically to +please him, for presently he inquired sarcastically:—</p> + +<p>“And what may your rank be; I suppose general or +colonel at the least?”</p> + +<p>“No,” I replied; “I am only a sub-lieutenant.”</p> + +<p>“Oh, indeed! I thought from your manner that you +were at least in command of a regiment.”</p> + +<p>However, after a brief examination, I was informed that +I could go, and that I had been granted six months’ leave +to England, as my illness was caused in and by the Service.</p> + +<p>At Watson’s Hotel I met d’Assailly again, who told me +a good deal about himself. It appeared that he was a rich +man, having an income of some £6,000 a year, and was +amusing himself by travelling round the world. He had +already visited Japan, Ceylon and Java, the last of which +he considered by far the most beautiful of the three countries, +and, as regards vegetation, truly marvellous. He +admitted that Ceylon was lovely, but, in his opinion, it +could not compare with Java, the natives of which he also +preferred to the Cingalese.</p> + +<p>I was very glad to leave Bombay in 1875, though, as I +disliked the sea very much, I was not looking forward to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"></a>[215]</span> +the voyage to England with any pleasurable anticipations. +Among the passengers on board the troopship were Captain +Crompton, a Lieutenant Howard, who belonged to the +Rifle Brigade, and Viscount Campden, of the 10th Hussars, +whose younger brother, the Hon. H. Noel, was in the same +battalion of the Rifle Brigade as Crompton and Howard. +Lord Campden, who was an amiable young man, with a +slight figure and reddish hair, occupied himself during the +voyage by reading Darwin’s “Natural Selection,” which +was seldom out of his hand, and did not talk much with +anyone, with the exception of Crompton.</p> + +<p>There was a battalion of infantry on board, under the +command of a Lieutenant-Colonel Rose, who had his wife +and daughter with him. The latter, who was a charming +little girl of thirteen, with golden hair and blue eyes, took +such a violent fancy to Howard that the other officers used +to chaff him and inquire whether he intended to wait until +she grew up to marry her. Howard was a tall, good-looking +fellow, with a fair moustache, and he seemed rather pleased +than otherwise by the little lady’s infatuation.</p> + +<p>The captain of the ship complained of Crompton dining +in evening clothes, and requested him to appear in uniform +in future. Crompton answered that he had no uniform +on board, as he had come out to India to work as a civil +engineer. But the captain would take no excuse, and insisted +on his wearing uniform at dinner and also on deck. +Crompton thereupon asked me if I could lend him part of my +uniform, as it only differed in the facings, the facings of one +regiment’s mess-jacket being black velvet, and those of the +other scarlet, braided with black lace, like the Hussars. +The uniform of both regiments was the same, supposed to +be a dark green, but really black. I therefore lent him +part of my uniform, as I had more than I required on board; +but when he appeared in it at mess and on deck, the captain +at first believed that it was his own, and that he had purposely +avoided wearing it, and he had to explain that he +had been obliged to borrow from me.</p> + +<p>During the voyage I was a good deal with Crompton, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span> +had many interesting talks with him on all kinds of topics. +He told me that his mother, who was dead, had published a +translation of the poems of Heinrich Heine, which was +considered to be the best that had appeared up to that time. +She had held that this life was but a preparation for the one +to come, and that whatever we cultivated in this existence, +we should excel in in the next, and said that he was firmly +convinced of the truth of this. He was a very clever man +and had invented an automobile for the conveyance of +troops, which he had sold to the Russian Government for +£4,000, as the War Office would not pay him the price he +asked. His knowledge, too, was astonishingly varied. Thus, +when we touched at Malta, some of the ladies on board +showed him the lace they had bought and told him the price +they had paid for it, upon which he said that they had been +imposed upon. For it appeared that he knew more about +lace and how to make it than any lady on the ship, and I +saw him showing them stitches which were quite new to +them.</p> + +<p>There were, of course, a number of invalids on board, +some of whom were very ill indeed. I occupied a cabin with +a lieutenant of the 11th Hussars named Reid, who was in +rapid consumption. He was a good-looking young fellow, +with, dark-brown curly hair, and very much liked by everyone. +He survived the voyage, as did a sergeant-major of +the R.H.A., whom no one had expected to live until we +reached England; but several other persons died, and were +buried at sea.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"></a>[217]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<p class="center">Baroness James Édouard de Rothschild—At Carlsbad—Transferred +to the 3rd Battalion</p> + +</div> + +<p>At Portsmouth, I was met by my father and Ernest +Berkeley, a son of Lord Berkeley, who some time +afterwards obtained a commission in my regiment, and +with them I travelled to Paris and stayed for a few days +with my parents in the Champs-Elysées. I then started +for Carlsbad, where I had been recommended to take the +waters for my complaint. On leaving Paris, I found myself +in the same carriage with an elderly English lady, a Mrs. +Michell, and her daughter, whose acquaintance I made. +They were on their way to Marienbad, as the mother was +abnormally stout and anxious to reduce her weight, life, +she told me, being a torment to her. At Nüremberg, a rather +nice-looking woman entered our carriage, with a very smart +footman in attendance, who carried an immense bouquet +of flowers, which he deposited beside his mistress. This +lady, it transpired, was the Baroness James Édouard de +Rothschild, who had been spending the night at Nüremberg, +and was also <i>en route</i> for Marienbad. The Baroness entered +into conversation with us, and was very pleasant. She +spoke English almost perfectly, having spent nearly half +her life in England, though she was now living with her +family in Paris. She had, she told us, been ordered to take +the waters at Marienbad, as she was inclined to be very +stout, and had sent on fourteen servants from Paris to get +everything ready for her.</p> + +<p>I got out at Carlsbad and drove to the Hôtel Goldenes<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"></a>[218]</span> +Schild, which was in those days the principal hôtel. Next +morning I consulted Dr. Ritter von Hochberg, the doctor +of the German Emperor, who was a very nice old man, +and who told me to drink two full glasses of the Schloss +Brunn waters and then walk for half an hour in the country +every morning before breakfast. I followed his instructions +and, after drinking the waters, walked out to the Posthof, +where I breakfasted in the open air at a very good restaurant, +being served by a pretty young Austrian girl, who was very +tastefully dressed, with her hair arranged in quite the latest +fashion. The walk back to my hôtel, along the banks of +a river, which flowed through a delightfully picturesque +valley, I enjoyed immensely.</p> + +<p>While dining one evening at the Hôtel König von Hannover, +I made the acquaintance of a Mrs. Andrews, an +elderly American lady, who was very rich and lived in an +apartment in the English quarter of Carlsbad. She asked +me to come and see her at her rooms, which were very comfortable, +and where she gave me a cup of English tea. +Mrs. Andrews was very fond of taking drives into the +country, and often invited me to accompany her. One day +she introduced me to Freiherr von Klenck, the son of Baron +von Klenck, who had been a great favourite of the late +King of Hanover and always with him. Klenck, who was +in a Hanoverian cavalry regiment, was a man of about +thirty, with a fair moustache. He detested Prussians, and +once, when I asked him if he would care to meet an +officer in a Prussian Line regiment whose acquaintance I +had made, he replied:—</p> + +<p>“It is all very well for you to know him, as you are not a +German. But I could not be seen with him. First of all, +he is a Prussian, and then he is in a Line regiment, so that +I could not go about with him, since I am in a cavalry +regiment, as you know.”</p> + +<p>I usually met Mrs. Andrews and Klenck at the Hôtel +König von Hannover, where we would engage a small table +and dine together, going after to Sans-Souci or the Posthof +to hear the military concert, which was very fine indeed.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"></a>[219]</span> +The band which played there was that of the 35th Regiment +König von Hannover, an Austrian military band, which had +won the first prize at Brussels in the competition for military +bands of all nations. It was composed of fifty men, and +played the most difficult music of Wagner in the most +brilliant manner, besides playing lighter music in a way +which quite delighted me. In fact, it put all the military +bands, English, French and German, that I had ever heard +completely in the shade. A principal feature was that +there were two men who played the cymbals, and that the +big drum was an insignificant item, the side-drum being far +more used. Sometimes, the band would play at Pupp’s +Café of an afternoon, while the people were taking their +coffee at little tables. On these occasions, a fee of fifty +kreuzers was charged for admission, and there was always +great difficulty in securing seats.</p> + +<p>The Kurkapelle, or string band, which played on most +days of the week, under the direction of the famous bandmaster, +Auguste Labitzky, was one of the finest string bands +in Europe. Every Friday afternoon Labitzky organized +a classical concert at Posthof, for which an admission fee +of fifty kreuzers was charged. One day was consecrated +to Wagner, another to Mozart, a third to Beethoven, and +on a fourth a programme of mixed classical music was +performed.</p> + +<p>The places where afternoon coffee was taken were all in +the country, people sitting at little tables under the trees. +At Pupp’s Café the waitresses had their Christian names, +Mizzi, Fanni, Resi, and so forth, pinned on to their dresses. +These girls were for the most part very pretty and pleasant-mannered. +One gentleman, after having finished his cure +at Carlsbad, received about twenty bouquets of beautiful +flowers, which were all placed on his breakfast-table at +Pupp’s by the girls serving there. People said that it +must have cost him at least a hundred florins in <i>douceurs</i> +to the waitresses.</p> + +<p>When I asked my doctor how much I was in his debt, he +told me that he left the matter entirely to me. So I put forty<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"></a>[220]</span> +florins in an envelope, which the doctor declined even to +open in my presence, saying that he felt sure that I had +remunerated his services sufficiently.</p> + +<p>After a cure of three weeks, I left Carlsbad for Franzensbad, +for the after-cure, which my doctor had advised my taking. +Here I secured very comfortable rooms in a villa with a +beautiful garden behind it, agreeing to pay a fixed price +per week for board and lodging. Shortly afterwards, the +proprietress informed me that, had she but known that +I was an Englishman, she would have asked me very +much more than she had. She appeared very much +annoyed, and, I am afraid, never forgave me for not +having acquainted her with my nationality at our first +interview.</p> + +<p>I thought Franzensbad a very charming place, with its +pretty villas with gardens attached to them; but the walks +could not compare with those around Carlsbad. I was so +tired after taking the waters at Carlsbad that I rested the +whole time I was at Franzensbad, merely taking iron baths, +which I found perfectly delightful. It was like bathing in +champagne, as the water sparkled and gave one a tickling +kind of sensation. The visitors at Franzensbad were chiefly +ladies, but I made the acquaintance of a young Bavarian +officer, Freiherr von Rüdt, who was very musical and played +the violin beautifully, and used to meet him nearly every +day at the concert in the Kurpark. The Kurkapelle used +to play at one or other of the hôtels during supper, and +I often went to these concerts. The bandmaster, Tomaschek, +was a very good conductor and a great favourite with the +ladies, who often sent him presents.</p> + +<p>During my stay at Franzensbad I paid a visit to Marienbad, +where I renewed my acquaintance with Mrs. Michell and her +daughter. I thought Marienbad even more beautiful than +Carlsbad, surrounded as it was by woods and hills. The +walks around it were really exquisite, and nothing could be +more pleasant than to take a walk in the woods on a summer’s +day and have coffee and listen to the band at one of the +cafés.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"></a>[221]</span></p> + +<p>On my return to Franzensbad I took a few more baths, +and then left for Paris, where I received a letter from the +War Office, informing me that I had been transferred to the +3rd Battalion of my regiment, which was stationed at +Chatham.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222"></a>[222]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<p class="center">My Brother-Officers—A <i>Mésalliance</i>—Christy Minstrels and Tobogganing</p> + +</div> + +<p>It was through the influence of the Adjutant-General, +Lord Airey, that I had been transferred to the 3rd +Battalion of the 60th Rifles, in June, 1875. On joining, I +went into the officers’ ante-room, where a short, stout officer, +wearing an eyeglass, addressed me, and inquired how I had +managed to get transferred. I told him that it was through +the A.-G., when he remarked:</p> + +<p>“How is it that I was not consulted?”</p> + +<p>“I really cannot tell you,” I answered.</p> + +<p>“H’m!” said he, transfixing me with his monocle.</p> + +<p>A few minutes afterwards, when he had left the room, +another officer came up to me, and said:—</p> + +<p>“Do you know who that is?”</p> + +<p>“No.”</p> + +<p>“That is our chief, Lieutenant-Colonel W. Leigh-Pemberton.”</p> + +<p>“Is it really?” said I. “I should never have thought +it, for he looks too young for a colonel.”</p> + +<p>“You have put your foot into it, evidently,” replied the +officer, who appeared highly amused at what had happened. +His name, he told me, was Corbet Stapleton-Cotton, and he +was a lieutenant of some years’ service.</p> + +<p>I had a room in barracks close to Cotton’s, and, after my +things had been unpacked, I dressed for mess. During +mess I again exchanged a few words with the Colonel, who +evidently looked upon me as an intruder, since he addressed +me in a very distant manner. I was introduced to the acting<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"></a>[223]</span> +adjutant, E. O. H. Wilkinson (the adjutant, Lieutenant +Bagot, had been suspended from that post by the Colonel), +whom I had known at Eton, but had never cared for much. +Wilkinson, who was a tall, dark man, with a slight squint, +a long body and very short legs, imparted to me the pleasing +information that I should have to begin my drill all over +again from the commencement, at seven o’clock the following +morning, so that I was likely to be kept well employed +for some little time to come. I also made the acquaintance +of my captain, Cramer, who was a middle-aged man with +grey hair. He had little to say for himself, and was not +remarkable for his amiability, but was very musical, and +played the piano wonderfully well, though entirely by ear. +Amongst other officers with whom I spoke that evening +were a sub-lieutenant named Robert Gunning and a +lieutenant called Allfrey. Gunning, who, like Cramer, in +whose company he was, had been at Eton with me, though +I had only known him very slightly there, was a rather good-looking +little fellow, and a great favourite of the Colonel, +who called him “Cupid,” and often invited him to his +quarters. Allfrey was a tall, burly man, with dark curly +hair, who was very loud in both his dress and conversation, +which was usually about horses. He was a great admirer +of Thackeray’s works, and declared that “Vanity Fair” +was the best novel in the English language, and that he had +read it over and over again without growing tired of it.</p> + +<p>Allfrey was a particular friend of Cotton, and I soon discovered +that these two officers were the <i>bêtes-noires</i> of the +Colonel, who, it was said, could not even endure the sound +of their voices, and would give anything in the world to +get rid of them both. Our chief’s dislike, however, was by +no means confined to Cotton and Allfrey. Two senior +lieutenants, named Holled-Smith and Allen, and a captain +called Robinson, had also the misfortune to be objects of +his antipathy, a fact which he was never at any pains to +disguise.</p> + +<p>Holled-Smith was a fine-looking man, clever and entertaining, +but with a somewhat brusque manner. He had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"></a>[224]</span> +a very good baritone voice, which he cultivated by taking +singing lessons, and he sang some songs very well. Allen +and Robinson were both singular characters. The former, +who was expecting his company, was a queer-looking fellow, +with a partially-bald head and a peculiarly vacant expression. +He was always highly perfumed, so that you knew when +he happened to be near you, before you saw him. His dress +was very eccentric, and his manner too. He was perpetually +muttering to himself, and would gesticulate in the most +weird fashion when no one was talking to him. Robinson, +who was nicknamed “Rabelais,” as he was always reading +that author’s works, was a kind of Hercules, and was the +eldest son of a baronet and the grandson of an Irish earl. +He was very eccentric, and would suddenly—for no apparent +reason—throw himself into the most violent passions, and +indulge in language at which even a private soldier would be +horrified. Strangely enough, he appeared to have little or +no idea of the effect of these outbursts upon those who had +the misfortune to be present: probably, he hardly knew +what he was saying. It was related that, upon one occasion, +he used this terrible language before a lady, who incontinently +took to flight. “Rabelais” inquired afterwards why +the lady had left so abruptly, and, on being told, remarked +that she must have been uncommonly prudish.</p> + +<p>These two strange creatures disliked each other even +more than the Colonel did them. One evening at mess, +soon after I joined the battalion, I noticed that, though they +were sitting next each other, they never exchanged a word +the whole evening. I remarked upon this to one of the +other officers, when I was told that they had not spoken +to one another for years.</p> + +<p>The senior major, Northey, was a very tall, dark man, +who was an excellent soldier and understood his work +thoroughly; but, unfortunately, his hands were tied by +the Colonel, who seldom condescended to approve of anything +he did. He was married to the daughter of a Polish +nobleman, a refugee, whom he had met when the battalion +was stationed in Canada. Major Northey was popular<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"></a>[225]</span> +with the men, and liked by the officers, but he had no +influence at all.</p> + +<p>The junior major, Collins, who was stout and wore an eyeglass, +was also a married man. His wife was a sister of a +bishop, and it was she who held the ribbons. Collins would +have made a much better bishop than he did a field-officer, +for he was a bad rider, who always felt uncomfortable on +horseback, and, what is more, looked so. He seldom ventured +on any observation concerning military matters +before the Colonel, as when he did so, he generally got +snubbed. The major took a great fancy to me, and often +invited me to his house, where I sometimes met the bishop, +who was delighted with my zither and paid me many +compliments on my playing.</p> + +<p>Tufnell, the senior captain, was a gentleman who entertained +a superlatively high opinion of himself. He must +have been very handsome when young, but was now somewhat +“<i>fané</i>.” He was very much in love with a girl named +Miss Finis, the daughter of a butcher in Chatham, who, +some years before, had been in love with my friend, Arthur +Dillon. Poor Dillon, alas! was no more, having been +thrown out of a Ralli car and killed while stationed at +Colchester. “He was such a good fellow, and a very +promising officer,” said Captain Byron, in the letter he wrote +to me in India, to inform me of the sad event.</p> + +<p>Tufnell was so infatuated with Miss Finis that it was +generally believed that he would end by marrying her. Nor +was he the only officer in the battalion who was contemplating +a <i>mésalliance</i>. There was another captain, called Carpenter, +who was desperately in love with a pretty little shop-girl, +who was only about sixteen. At first, the Colonel +objected to Carpenter going about with this damsel, but +when he learned that he was determined to marry her, he +said nothing more, as Carpenter was a great friend of his. +Carpenter retired some months afterwards, and married +his little girl, who, I was told, made him a very good wife. +His retirement was much regretted, as he was very popular +with both officers and men.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"></a>[226]</span></p> + +<p>The nicest captain in the battalion was de Robeck, who +had been on the Staff of the Earl of Mayo, when Viceroy of +India. He was a brother of Baron de Robeck, whom I +already knew. De Robeck was a rather shy man, and +dreadfully afraid of offending the Colonel. As time seemed +only to accentuate the bad impression which I had been so +unfortunate as to make upon our chief at our first meeting, +partly owing to the fact that I was obliged to be a good +deal in the company of Cotton and Holled-Smith, whose +quarters adjoined my own, I told de Robeck that I thought +it would be best for me to exchange into another battalion. +He, however, advised me not to do so, observing:—</p> + +<p>“The Colonel cannot stay with us very much longer, and +in the 1st Battalion, into which you wish to exchange, +they have a Colonel, Colonel Gordon, who, I am told, is +much worse than ours. I hear that he has been the cause +of no less than ten officers leaving the battalion, and the +cases of desertion among the riflemen can hardly be counted.”</p> + +<p>I told him that the Colonel of the 1st was soon retiring, +while our chief would remain with us for another three +years, which had to be taken into consideration.</p> + +<p>“No,” he replied, “he has only two years more, thank +God!”</p> + +<p>I was always much influenced by what de Robeck told me, +and generally followed his advice. I did so in this instance, +but had I acted otherwise, it would have been much better +for me.</p> + +<p>Among the senior lieutenants was one named Wylie, +an absurdly pompous individual, who was disliked by both +officers and men. One day, when I happened to be orderly +officer, I had just come off parade and was standing by the +officers’ mess, when Wylie passed by. I wished him good-morning, +but, because I did not salute him at the same time, +though it was off the parade-ground, he reported me to the +Colonel, who reprimanded me. Wylie was married to the +sister of a recently-created peer, who, on the strength of +this relationship, gave herself ridiculous airs, and was almost +as pompous as her husband.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"></a>[227]</span></p> + +<p>Arthur Greville Bagot, an old Etonian, who was adjutant +of the battalion by appointment, though, as I mentioned, +suspended, was a very different kind of officer from Wylie. +He was highly connected, being the cousin of a duke and +the nephew of a peer, and was a thorough gentleman in +every way. He was a very good-looking man, and when +not in uniform, always dressed very smartly in the latest +fashion. An excellent soldier, he kept the men in first-rate +order, which Wilkinson never could do, and, as he was rather +a friend of mine, he invariably took my part with the Colonel, +with whom he was on pretty good terms.</p> + +<p>As there was very little going on at Chatham at any time +in the way of amusement, Bagot organized from the battalion +a troupe of Christy Minstrels, he himself taking the part +of “Bones.” I was asked to do my share, to which I willingly +consented. We gave a performance in Chatham, which +turned out a great success, a number of people having to be +refused admission. The officers and men blackened their +faces, and when I wished to re-enter Chatham Barracks, +the sentry refused to let me pass, until I told him who I +was. We gave a second performance at Chatham, which +was so well attended that we agreed to engage the theatre +at Gravesend and give an entertainment there. The result +exceeded our most sanguine expectations, the theatre being +crammed, while over four hundred people were turned +away from the doors. Bagot made most amusing jokes, +and sang several very good comic songs; Carpenter gave a +solo on the concertina, besides singing in the chorus, and +my performance on the zither was warmly applauded, and +I got an encore. The <i>ensemble</i> was excellent for that style +of entertainment; quite as good as any professional troupe, +and the singing was above the average.</p> + +<p>During the winter we had a heavy fall of snow, and, as +most of the officers of the battalion had served in Canada, +and had done a great deal of tobogganing there, this amusement +was indulged in down the hill close to the mess. The +toboggans were made to contain two persons, one sitting +behind, and the other between his legs in front; and many<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"></a>[228]</span> +of the officers would place a lady in front of them on their +toboggans, and come down the hill at a terrific pace, the +ladies sometimes giving vent to piercing shrieks, from fear +of getting a spill. Now and again a toboggan would upset, +and send its occupants flying; but, as they usually fell into +the snow banked up on either side of the track, it was very +rarely that they were in the least hurt.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"></a>[229]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<p class="center">Sarah Bernhardt in <i>Phèdre</i>—Vienna and Buda-Pesth</p> + +</div> + +<p>When I got my winter’s leave, I started for Paris, +to see my parents; intending afterwards to visit +Vienna and Buda-Pesth. On the last evening of my stay +in Paris, I went to the Théâtre-Français, to see Sarah Bernhardt +and Mounet Sully in <i>Phèdre</i>. The latter’s acting was +very fine, but Sarah Bernhardt was simply magnificent. +The way in which she recited Racine’s lines in her charming, +musical voice, with its pretty timbre, was a real pleasure to +listen to; while in the last scene she rose to the supreme +heights of tragedy. I do not think I was ever more delighted +in my life with a theatrical performance than I was with +the splendid acting that night at the Théâtre-Français, as +it surpassed all my expectations.</p> + +<p>On my journey to Vienna next day, I had as a travelling +companion an Austrian gentleman called Herr Neuss, who, +on my happening to mention my visit to the Théâtre-Français +the previous evening, observed that, in his opinion, +the Burg Theatre, in Vienna, was the first theatre in Europe, +and invited me to accompany him one evening to see a play +of Shakespeare acted there. Herr Neuss told me that, +from the way I spoke German, he had at first taken me for +a German student, and that he was surprised to learn that I +was an officer of the British Army.</p> + +<p>On my arrival in Vienna, which was enveloped in a white +mantle of snow, I went to the Hôtel Matschakerhof, which +had been recommended to me, and which I found very +comfortable. I lost no time in calling on Herr Neuss, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"></a>[230]</span> +presented me to his wife and their three young and pretty +daughters, who were quite charming. I was invited to +return to supper, and afterwards two of the girls played on +two grand pianos which stood in the drawing-room. They +both played beautifully, and had evidently been most +admirably taught. An evening or two later, I went with +Herr Neuss to the Burg Theatre, to witness a performance of +<i>Romeo and Juliet</i>, which was wonderfully well staged. The +part of Juliet was played by Fräulein Frank, a very good-looking +brunette, who acted well, though in the very tragic +scenes she occasionally showed too much emotion. Another +evening I saw Fräulein Frank in the <i>Jungfrau von Orléans</i>, +a part which suited her infinitely better than that of Juliet; +and in which she was truly marvellous. I also saw the celebrated +Charlotte Wolter in <i>Richard III.</i>, in which play +Lewinsky took the part of the King. I was very much +impressed by the latter’s acting, but I was decidedly disappointed +with Charlotte Wolter, whom I considered inferior +to Fräulein Frank, though the public thought otherwise. +Wolter, indeed, in the opinion of the Viennese, was an ideal +actress, and, in certain plays, they even preferred her to +Sarah Bernhardt.</p> + +<p>I was charmed with the military concerts at Vienna. Of +an afternoon I several times went to the Volksgarten, where +the people sat at little tables sipping coffee and smoking +cigarettes. The military band, the Hoch and Deutschmeister, +which played, was a string band, and the solo +players were all very good. I was quite delighted with the +way the band played a march, so differently from the sleepy +fashion in which our English military bands played one. +As is always the practice with an Austrian military band, +when playing marches, a great deal of use was made of the +cymbals in forte parts. They also played waltzes delightfully, +and polkas with the proper rhythm, which so seldom +happens. The Hoch and Deutschmeister played the most +difficult music from the <i>Nibelungen Ring</i>, of Wagner, equally +well, but their chief success was with light music, in which +they were unrivalled.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"></a>[231]</span></p> + +<p>On Sundays Johann Strauss’s band played in the Musikverein’s +Saal, under its accomplished conductor, who +always charmed the audience with its beautiful waltzes +and inspiriting polkas. Yet everyone said that his band +was very inferior to the string bands of the regiments stationed +in Vienna. I heard Johann Strauss’s band play more +than once, and though I was pleased with it, the military +band had far more attraction for me.</p> + +<p>I paid a visit one evening to Schwender’s, a dancing-hall, +where, to the strains of a military band, people danced till +the small hours of the morning, and was struck with the +orderly manner in which those present conducted themselves. +It was a great contrast to the scenes witnessed +at similar resorts in England in those days, where drunkenness +amongst both sexes was a common feature.</p> + +<p>The Opera House, whose orchestra was quite the finest +in Europe, had, of course, a great fascination for me. +Wagner was then directing his operas, <i>Tannhäuser</i> and +<i>Lohengrin</i>, and they were admirably rendered. Fräulein +Ehnn and Frau Materna created the chief women’s rôles, +and Winkelmann and Ritter were the leading tenors. A +great feature at the Opera was the ballet, in which the +<i>première danseuse</i>, Bertha Linda, delighted everyone with +her graceful dancing, while the <i>corps de ballet</i> was excellent. +Bertha Linda married the celebrated artist Makart, at +that time the greatest painter in Austria.</p> + +<p>From Vienna I went to Buda-Pesth, where I stayed at +the Hôtel Königin von England. On the evening of my +arrival, a gipsy band began playing during dinner, and +continued until long past midnight. They played in a +really wonderful manner, and collected a great deal of money. +I visited the “Nepsinház” and other theatres in Pesth, and +one evening went to a dancing-hall, where I saw the Csárdas +danced most beautifully, and made the acquaintance of +a young girl of fourteen or fifteen, named Tournay Wilma, +a pupil at the theatre, who had a lovely contralto voice. +She accompanied me back to my hôtel, and sang to me until +the small hours of the morning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"></a>[232]</span></p> + +<p>I thought Buda-Pesth beautifully situated, with the +Emperor’s castle at Buda, and the Danube flowing between +the two towns, but I would have infinitely preferred to live +in Vienna, which is a far finer city. On my return there, I +went several times to the Opera to hear <i>Manfred</i>, <i>Don Juan</i> +and <i>Figaro’s Hochzeit</i>, and then, after calling on Herr Neuss +and his family, bade farewell to this most charming of capitals.</p> + +<p>I may mention that, during my stay in Vienna, I took +lessons on the zither from the celebrated Paschinger, who +was quite a brilliant performer on that instrument, besides +being a good violinist, and played the violin and occasionally +the zither at one of the principal theatres, where he was +first violinist. I also invested in a zither-table, which I +purchased at Kiendl’s, who made the best zithers in Europe.</p> + +<p>While in Vienna and Buda-Pesth, I was much impressed +by the appearance of the troops I saw. Among the cavalry, +which was then considered the finest in Europe, the Hussars +struck me as being remarkably well mounted, while the +officers’ uniform was very smart. The Dragoons, whose +officers were mostly of the nobility, as were those of the +Lancers, were also well mounted; while the Arciren Guards, +who corresponded to our Life Guards, were a fine body of +men, in green uniforms with red facings. There were at +this time, in the Austrian Army, sixteen regiments of Hussars, +the same number of Lancer regiments, and twelve regiments +of Dragoons. The Hussars were all Hungarians, the +Dragoons Austrians, and the Lancers Bohemians and +Poles. The infantry was also very fine, and the uniform of +the officers, though they wore no gold lace at all, very smart.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"></a>[233]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<p class="center">Percy Hope-Johnstone—A “Special” to Aldershot—A Costume-Ball +at Folkestone</p> + +</div> + +<p>Soon after my return to Chatham, my company had +to go to Gravesend for a course of musketry. The +officers who went were Cramer, Gunning and myself. We +had to superintend the shooting of the men, though the +musketry instructor, a lieutenant named Hope-Johnstone, was +also present. Percy Hope-Johnstone, who was very popular +with everyone, was a fine, powerfully-built man, and a very +good shot, both with gun and rifle. He took great interest +in the men’s shooting, and was a most capable instructor. +He was the heir to a baronetcy, and in later years laid claim +to the peerage of Annandale, but his claim was not successful.</p> + +<p>One day, Hope-Johnstone lent me his horse on the range, +and the animal, not being accustomed to so light a weight, +bolted with me, and set off at a furious gallop through the +town. Fortunately, however, he soon ran himself out, and +stopped of his own accord.</p> + +<p>Hope-Johnstone often went with Gunning and myself +for walks in the country around Gravesend. On one occasion, +when we were sitting by the Thames, he said to us:—</p> + +<p>“Supposing neither of you had any money at all. What +would you do to learn a living?”</p> + +<p>Gunning replied that he should become an actor; and +they both said that they were sure that I could play the +zither at concerts, and make a good deal of money by this. +Then Hope-Johnstone remarked:—</p> + +<p>“I know what I should do. I am a very fine fellow, well-built, +rather imposing in appearance. Therefore, I should<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"></a>[234]</span> +be a footman, which is a devilish easy life, nothing to do +and plenty to eat and drink.”</p> + +<p>Hope-Johnstone told me that he had a younger brother +in the Guards, who had told him that he was not allowed +to recognize in London officers of other regiments whom he +had met in the country, unless he were introduced to them +in town, and the same rule applied to civilians whom an +officer of the Guards had met in the country. Hope-Johnstone +said he much preferred life in a Rifle regiment, as he +was far more free to do as he liked, and could obtain more +leave than a subaltern in the Guards. He intended retiring +from the Service so soon as he got his company, as he was +very well off.</p> + +<p>Allen, whose eccentricities I have mentioned elsewhere, +came to Gravesend with his company, and used to walk +about the town with his pockets full of sweets, which he +would give to any pretty children whom he happened to +meet. He brought with him a rather smart dog-cart and +some fine horses, and sometimes took me for a drive, during +which he used to entertain me with an account of the charms +of a young flower-girl at Folkestone, whom he had known +since she was quite a child, and whom he intended to marry, +although she was only sixteen and he was forty. He did +marry her, in fact, not long afterwards, when the Colonel +insisted on his exchanging into another battalion, stationed +in India. The officers’ wives called upon her, out of compassion, +it would seem, for the miserable life which she led. +For Allen was so fearfully jealous that he even went to the +length of locking the poor girl up in the house whenever he +went out. He was subsequently transferred to another +regiment, but his jealousy of his wife continued down to +the time of his death, which occurred soon after he had +been promoted major.</p> + +<p>When the musketry-course was over, I returned with my +company to Chatham. One day, I went with Cotton to +Southend, and we missed the last train back. Cotton said +that he must get back that night, as he was on duty next +morning, and asked the station-master if he could have a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"></a>[235]</span> +special train, when that official said that, if we would keep +quiet, he would put us in a luggage-train, which was just +on the point of starting. We were put into a van, which +was half-filled with coal, and had anything but a pleasant +journey, as there was nothing but the floor—and the coal—to +sit upon. However, we reached our destination in the +early morning, in time for Cotton to assume his duties as +orderly officer.</p> + +<p>Cotton told me that once, when stationed at Aldershot, +he went up to town for the day, and missed the last train +back. A lieutenant in the Rifle Brigade, named Crofton, +who was in a like predicament, asked Cotton if he would +come with him in a “special,” which he had just ordered, +and the latter, of course, gladly consented. When they +were nearing Aldershot, Crofton said:—</p> + +<p>“I will send you your half of the bill for the ‘special’ +as soon as I get it. It will be a matter of forty pounds.”</p> + +<p>Cotton, however, did not see the force of this, as he had +quite understood that Crofton, who was a very rich man, +had invited him to come with him. Consequently, he +refused to pay any part of the bill.</p> + +<p>It was no wonder that Cotton occasionally missed trains, +for he was constantly late for parade, for mess, and, indeed, +for everything. One day, the Colonel, between whom and +Cotton there was little love lost, remarked:—</p> + +<p>“Cotton, you are always late; I am sure you will be late +for your own funeral!”</p> + +<p>Cotton, who was a grandson of Viscount Combermere, +and whose father, the Hon. Sir C. Stapleton-Cotton, was +a general of cavalry, died after the Zulu War of fever.</p> + +<p>Cotton and I often dined together at a small hôtel at +Rochester, which, if I am not mistaken, was the one where +Mr. Pickwick stayed on the night of the ball at Rochester, +described by Dickens. Occasionally we would converse in +French, which Cotton spoke well, though, singularly enough, +he had never been in France. At this hôtel, we occasionally +met two officers of the Rifle Brigade, Viscount Bennet, son +of the Earl of Tankerville, and Lord Torphichen, the last-named<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"></a>[236]</span> +officer an old Etonian, who would join us at dinner. +Lord Bennet’s mother was a French lady, and he used to +make very clever jokes in French, which, however, lost by +being repeated in English, on account of the <i>jeu de mots</i>.</p> + +<p>Not long after my return from Gravesend, I was sent +with Gunning to Dover, to go through a final course of +instruction there, before sitting for my lieutenant’s examination, +and attached to the 104th Regiment at the Shaft +Barracks. I was allotted a very comfortable room in the +barracks, and Colonel Græme, who was then commanding +the 104th, was very pleasant to me, as was a captain named +Hunter, with whom I soon became very friendly. Our +instruction, which was conducted by a Captain Savile, of +the Staff College, occupied most of the morning and part +of the afternoon, but by four o’clock we were generally +free. My friends, the Charltons, were still living in Victoria +Park, and naturally I lost no time in calling upon them. +They were very pleased to see me again, and talked a great +deal about poor Dillon, to whom, it appeared, Augusta, the +eldest daughter, had become engaged to be married just +before he met with his fatal accident. Ida, the second girl, +who seemed even prettier than when I had last seen her, +told me that she was engaged to a lieutenant in the 12th +Lancers named Beck, a very nice young fellow, who had +been with me at Sandhurst, and whom I had liked very +much there.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Charlton, as hospitable as ever, told me that I must +come to supper the following Sunday, and bring a friend with +me, as I used to do when poor Dillon was alive. I gladly +accepted her invitation, and asked Gunning to come with +me. But he excused himself, explaining that he was related +to the Charltons, but that, owing to some family quarrel, +his parents were not on good terms with them. I then asked +a lieutenant of the 7th Fusiliers, named Foley, who was +only too pleased to go. He fell in love with Augusta at +first sight, and he and I used to go every Sunday evening +to supper in Victoria Park.</p> + +<p>Foley, who was a nephew of Lord Foley, was a very nice<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"></a>[237]</span> +fellow indeed and a great friend of mine. He was very witty +and amusing, and not infrequently exercised his wit at the +expense of Gunning, who, though he rather fancied himself +at repartee, and could more than hold his own against most +people, invariably got the worst of it when he crossed swords +with Foley.</p> + +<p>While I was at Dover, a big fancy-dress ball took place at +Folkestone, to which Robartes, of the 11th Hussars, and I +went with the Charltons. It was a very smart affair indeed, +a number of people coming down from London for it, and +some of the costumes were very fine. One lady, the Hon. +Mrs. Yorke, whose husband was an officer in the Guards, +wore a Greek peasant girl’s costume, which was much admired. +Mrs. Yorke had, I think, the smallest feet for an Englishwoman +that I have ever seen, which the white trousers she +wore enabled her to display to advantage. Mrs. Charlton +wore some magnificent lace, which a lady with whom I +danced told me must be worth at least two or three hundred +pounds. When I happened later in the evening to mention +this to Mrs. Charlton, she exclaimed:—</p> + +<p>“Two or three hundred! The lace on my dress is worth +nearer three thousand. It is of Charles II.’s time.”</p> + +<p>It was nearly four o’clock in the morning before we left +the ball-room, having all enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. +Robartes and I were photographed with the girls a few days +later at Dover, they in the fancy dresses they had worn +at the ball, and we in our uniform.</p> + +<p>When our examination for the rank of lieutenant took place, +Foley and myself passed very well in the first class and had +our commissions ante-dated two years; Robartes, of the 11th +Hussars, and Gunning only succeeded in getting a “second.” +The examination was a very stiff one, and a major of the +104th remarked that it ought almost to have qualified us +for generals instead of lieutenants.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238"></a>[238]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</h2> + +<p class="center">The Oppenheims—St. James’s and Winchester—The Colonel and +Beauclerk</p> + +</div> + +<p>Shortly after I had passed my lieutenant’s examination, +I was sent to Woolwich, where a detachment +of my battalion was to do duty for the Horse Artillery. The +room I was given, which belonged to an officer of the R.H.A., +was a much better one than I had had in other barracks, +and was furnished with some attempt at luxury. In the +evening, I dined at the Royal Artillery mess, where their +very fine string band played an excellent selection of music, +under the direction of its Austrian bandmaster, Ritter von +Zauerthal. I was often on guard at Woolwich, which I +found very tiresome, as the guard was turned out at night +as well as by day, and, as my turn to be on guard came round +three times a week, it was pretty stiff work.</p> + +<p>While I was at Woolwich, a very smart ball was given at +the barracks, which was highly successful, the great variety +of uniforms and the toilettes of the ladies combining to make +an unusually pretty scene, and an excellent supper being +provided. To this ball I invited my old Eton friend, Jim +Doyne, who, seeing all the men in uniform, mistook an +officer who had come in evening dress for a waiter, and asked +him to fetch an ice for a lady. The officer, however, took the +mistake in very good part, and did as he was asked, remarking +as he handed the ice to the lady, whom he happened to +know:—</p> + +<p>“I am very pleased to make myself useful, and, as I have +come in evening clothes instead of in uniform, I can quite +understand your partner taking me for a waiter.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239"></a>[239]</span></p> + +<p>During my visit to Vienna, Herr Neuss had given me a +letter of introduction to Frau Oppenheim, the wife of a +wealthy wine-merchant in London, who, before her marriage, +when she was known as Louise Epstein, had been an actress +at the Burg Theatre, and had been considered the most +beautiful woman in the Austrian capital. I called upon +her and found her very charming, though few traces of the +beauty which had captivated so many hearts, including, +it was said, that of a British Ambassador, now remained. +Her husband, an immensely stout man, invited me to dinner +and gave me a most excellent one, <i>arrosé</i> with his choicest +wines. In return, I invited the Oppenheims to lunch +with me at Woolwich, and asked a lieutenant of my battalion +named Featherstone to meet them. Featherstone, I am +afraid, was somewhat disappointed with Madame’s looks, +as he had been expecting to see a much younger woman.</p> + +<p>After lunch, which was served in a private room at the +mess, Herr Oppenheim expressed a wish to see the 80-ton +gun fired for the first time, but I told him that it was impossible, +as he was a foreigner. However, he protested that +he had lived so many years in England that he had almost +come to look upon himself as an Englishman, and at length +he persuaded me to take him. When the great gun was +fired, the worthy wine-merchant was so alarmed that he +staggered backwards, exclaiming: “<i>Ach, du lieber Gott!</i>” +And had it not been for a man standing by, who supported +him in his arms, and whom his weight nearly upset, he would +have fallen down.</p> + +<p>When I invited a friend to dine with me at the Artillery +mess, as I frequently did, I was obliged to be there to receive +him; otherwise, he would not be admitted. On my inquiring +the reason for this rule, I was told that one evening a man +presented himself at the mess, saying that he had been +asked to dine by a certain officer, whose name he gave. The +officer in question did not put in an appearance, and when +dinner was announced, his supposed friend was invited to +sit down to table, which he did. Presently, the attention +of one of the mess-waiters was attracted by the singular<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240"></a>[240]</span> +behaviour of this individual, who was calmly pocketing as +many spoons and forks as he could lay his hands on, whenever +he fancied that he was unobserved. The mess-waiter +reported these proceedings to the mess-president, and the +man was at once given in charge, when it was discovered +that he was a well-known thief. The Artillery mess was +a very large one, from two hundred to three hundred officers +sitting down to table, many of whom brought guests with +them. Consequently, they had to be very careful, as there +was always so much silver lying about.</p> + +<p>As it was summer, I frequently went up to London by +steam-boat, which was a very pleasant way of making the +journey. My companion on these river-trips was a lieutenant +of my battalion, named Ernest Hovell Thurlow, an +exceedingly nice fellow, who wore an eyeglass and appeared +to take life in a very philosophical manner, as he never +allowed himself to be put out by anything. He was a grandson +of Lord Thurlow, and his mother had been a Miss Lethbridge. +He was married, but his wife, a very pretty woman +with wavy, golden hair, was staying in town for the +season.</p> + +<p>After we had been some months at Woolwich, our detachment +received orders to relieve the Grenadier Guards at St. +James’s Palace. We detrained at Waterloo Station and +marched to the Palace, in front of which the band of the +Grenadiers was playing while the guard was being mounted. +Our Colonel, who had come up to town expressly for this +ceremony, and was in plain clothes, sent me to tell the Grenadiers’ +band to stop playing, at which the bandmaster, Dan +Godfrey, appeared to be rather surprised. However, he +obeyed the order, when the band of our battalion played +in its turn, after which the guard was relieved.</p> + +<p>I had a very comfortable room in St. James’s Palace, +where I slept while I was on guard there, and, with the other +officers, was made an honorary member of the Guards’ Club. +I found the duties rather fatiguing, as the sentries to be +visited were so far apart. The officers of the Guards always +visited them in hansom-cabs, but Captain Tufton, who was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241"></a>[241]</span> +in command of our detachment, would not allow me this +luxury, and I had to go on foot.</p> + +<p>I invited Jim Doyne to dine with me one evening at the +Palace. The dinner was excellent, and was provided free +of cost to the officers, though they had to pay 15s. for each +guest. The champagne was very good and the liqueurs +as well, and a bottle of brandy was opened which was of the +year of the Battle of Waterloo. Amongst the guests was a +Lieutenant Childe-Pemberton, who was formerly in our +regiment, but was then in the “Blues.”</p> + +<p>After I had been a short time at St. James’s Palace, my +battalion was ordered to the Tower. But the Colonel, who +had a good deal of influence at the War Office, persuaded +them to countermand this order and send it to Winchester +instead, where the detachment from St. James’s joined it.</p> + +<p>I had very comfortable quarters at Winchester, and life +there was very pleasant, as the country round was very +pretty, and we were invited to all the best houses in the +neighbourhood. One of the most pleasant houses to which +I went was that of Lady Frederick. It was a charming old +residence, standing in the midst of beautiful grounds, +and Lady Frederick and her son were most kind and +hospitable.</p> + +<p>The depôt of the Rifle Brigade was also at Winchester, +and the officers, some of whom were very nice fellows indeed, +frequently dined at our mess. Amongst them was a Lieutenant +F. Howard, whose acquaintance I had made on the +troopship returning from India, and whom I was very pleased +to meet again. He told me that he was now married and +invited me to dine with him and his wife. I did so, and had +a most pleasant evening, as both the Howards were very +musical, Mrs. Howard having a very good voice, while her +husband was quite an accomplished pianist.</p> + +<p>Sir George Nares, the Arctic explorer, was living at Winchester +at the time with his wife and daughters. I made their +acquaintance at a dance, and was often invited to tea at their +house, after which I used to play tennis or croquet with the two +girls, both of whom were very good-looking, or go with them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242"></a>[242]</span> +for a country-walk. Sometimes when I called Sir George +Nares would ask me to have a glass of madeira, from one +of the remaining bottles of a case of that wine which had +made the voyage with him. He did not show any traces +of the privations which he had endured in the Arctic; but +he was a very quiet man, who did not talk much and kept +a good deal to himself. Not long after I came to Winchester, +the family removed to a house near Surbiton, where they +invited me to visit them. While I was there, the elder +daughter met with a very sad accident. She was running +downstairs, when the heel of her shoe caught in a stair-rod +and she fell on her back, injuring her spine so badly that she +died six months later. She was only eighteen. Her younger +sister married a missionary some years later, and went out +to South Africa.</p> + +<p>Several officers from the 2nd Battalion, with which I +had served in India, were at the depôt, including Surgeon-Major +Macnamara, Beauclerk, Lovett, and a captain named +Brownrigg. Brownrigg was a fine-looking man, though with +a tendency to <i>embonpoint</i>, and a very nice fellow as well, but +he had an unfortunate weakness for liqueurs. He used to +mix two or three together, and whenever anyone came to +see him would invite them to have “a two-bottle trick” +or “a three-bottle trick” with him. Brownrigg married not +long afterwards and left the Service, but died suddenly, +six months later. Probably, the two and three bottle +tricks in which he was so fond of indulging had undermined +his health.</p> + +<p>It was rarely that the officers went up to town from Winchester, +as the journey was rather too long, and there was +plenty of amusement to be found in and around Winchester. +The music at the cathedral had a great attraction for me, +and I was never tired of listening to the magnificent playing +of the organist, Dr. Arnold. I took lessons in composition +from Dr. Arnold, which interested me very much, although +Howard declared that he could not understand anyone +wishing to be initiated into the mysteries of harmony and +counterpoint; which, he said, was a kind of higher mathematics<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243"></a>[243]</span> +and destroyed the illusion which music produces +on the senses.</p> + +<p>The Colonel was his own absolute master at Winchester, +as there was no general there to look after him, and gave +himself and his battalion a rest, the parades being few and +far between and the guards easy. Except for pottering about +the mess-room and his work at the orderly-room of a morning +our chief had little to do, and, from want of some better +occupation, made himself more than usually objectionable +to such of the officers as he did not happen to like. Beauclerk, +who had been at the depôt for some time, was transferred +to our battalion, at which I was very pleased, as he +was a very nice fellow and a perfect gentleman, though a +little inclined to be conceited. Unfortunately, the Colonel +at once took a dislike to Beauclerk, owing to some jesting +remark which the latter let fall while playing billiards with +him, which he considered was wanting in respect, though +any ordinary person would have seen nothing offensive +in it. Next day, the chief appointed him to Robinson’s +company, well knowing that Beauclerk would never tolerate +the manner in which that eccentric personage was in the habit +of treating his subalterns, whom he seldom condescended to +address except to find fault with them, which he did in not +the politest of language. Sure enough, one fine day, Beauclerk +complained to the Colonel of the language which “Rabelais” +had used towards him, and when the Colonel refused +to listen to him, sent in his papers, which was, of course, +just what our amiable chief wanted him to do. He was a +great loss to the regiment, and his retirement was much +regretted.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244"></a>[244]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</h2> + +<p class="center">Paris Again—Eccentricities of Captain “Rabelais”—A Fire in +Barracks—A Trying Inspection</p> + +</div> + +<p>My next winter leave I spent in Paris with my parents, +who now occupied an <i>appartement</i> at No. 65, Rue +de Morny, Champs-Elysées, and, as the winter season in the +French capital was in full swing, had a very gay time of it. +Among the balls to which I went was one given by Mrs. +Hungerford, the mother of the well-known Mrs. Mackay, +which was a very grand affair indeed, and at which dancing +was kept up until nearly five in the morning. I met Mrs. +Mackay shortly afterwards, when calling on Mrs. Hungerford. +She spoke Spanish quite fluently, and was at this time very +intimate with Isabella, the ex-Queen of Spain, to whose house +she was often invited. She was, as usual, beautifully dressed, +and in the most perfect taste. Another ball I attended was +given by Mrs. Keogh, an Irish lady, where I danced the +cotillon with a very lovely young Russian girl, a cousin of +the Empress of Russia, who, together with her sister, was made +a great deal of at that time in Paris society. I also went to +a <i>bal-masqué</i> at the Opéra with an American friend named +Willing. There was a great crowd there, all the women +being, of course, masked and in fancy costumes. I went +into Baron Alphonse de Rothschild’s box to pay my respects +to Madame Adelsdorfer, a great friend of Lady Holland, +with whom she stayed when in London, and she invited me +to accompany her on the following evening to the “Italiens,” +where we heard Albani sing in <i>La Sonnambula</i>. I was +delighted with Albani’s voice and also with her acting.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245"></a>[245]</span></p> + +<p>Another evening, I went to see Salvini in <i>La Morte civile</i>, +by Giacometti. Mlle. Masini, a young girl, played the part +of the daughter, whom Salvini tries to kiss when he dies. +She offers up a prayer for him on her knees, which so affected +the audience that nearly the whole house was in tears. I +saw Salvini on two other occasions: in <i>Il Gladiatore</i>, when +I sat next to a very pretty girl, who pointed out to me a +middle-aged man with a grey beard, whom she told me was +Alphonse Daudet, the celebrated novelist, and again in +<i>Othello</i>, when Mlle. Checchi Bozzo played Desdemona. She +and Salvini acted magnificently and delighted everyone. +Mlle. Checchi Bozzo died suddenly two days after I had seen +her in <i>Othello</i>; she was only twenty-two, and her death +caused a great sensation in Paris.</p> + +<p>Amongst other plays which I saw were Madame de Girardin’s +<i>la Joie fait Peur</i>, Alfred de Musset’s <i>Il ne faut jurer +de rien</i>, and Augier’s <i>Philiberte</i>, at the Théâtre-Français, +in all of which the acting was admirable, and a very amusing +piece called <i>la Boule</i>, by Meilhac and Halévy, at the Théâtre-du +Palais-Royal.</p> + +<p>One Sunday afternoon I went to Pasdeloup’s concert, +where they played the <i>Septuor</i> of Beethoven beautifully. +The greatest attraction there was Sivori, who performed a +violin solo in the most wonderful manner. Sivori was +Paganini’s best pupil, and Lord Berkeley used to say that +he preferred Sivori to any violinist he had ever heard, as he +always played with so much feeling, and eschewed those +complicated pieces which resemble gymnastic exercises +for the fingers, and serve no better purpose than to enable +the violinist to display his execution.</p> + +<p>At the Grand Opéra I heard <i>l’Africaine</i>, of Meyerbeer, +which was marvellously well-staged. Madame Krauss sang +the title-part. She was an Austrian, from Vienna, but sang +at the Paris Opéra for years, and was quite famous there. +I also heard <i>Robert le Diable</i>—or rather part of it, for my +father, who was with me, could not sit it out. So we adjourned +to Thorpe’s, where we met Tom Hohler, whom I have mentioned +earlier in this volume, and remained talking to him<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246"></a>[246]</span> +for some time. Tom Hohler was now married to Henrietta, +Duchess of Newcastle, and they lived in the Avenue d’Antin.</p> + +<p>While in Paris, I visited a great many old friends, including +Eugénie de Lavaile and Gabrielle Tercin, with whom I went +one evening to the Scala and supped with them afterwards +at a neighbouring restaurant. Another evening, I went +with the former to the Folies Dramatiques to see <i>les Cloches +de Cornéville</i>, in which Juliette Girard acted and sang remarkably +well and was very graceful. I also renewed my +acquaintance with Mrs. Michell and her daughter, whom I +had not seen since I was at Marienbad, and whom I came +across one day while walking on the Boulevards, and with +the Vicomte Arthur d’Assailly, whom I had met in India. +The Vicomte lived in the Rue Las Cases, and was a member +of the Jockey Club, but he preferred les Mirlitons, he told +me, as they gave many evening entertainments, and he was +passionately fond of music.</p> + +<p class="tb">When my leave was up, I rejoined my battalion at Aldershot, +to which it had been transferred from Winchester. +It had originally been ordered to the Tower of London, +but the Colonel, as on a previous occasion, had used his influence +at the War Office to get this order countermanded, +to the great disgust of most of the officers. However, our +chief rarely condescended to consult the wishes of anyone +but himself in such matters.</p> + +<p>On my arrival at Aldershot, I was summoned to the +orderly-room by the Colonel, who told me that I had somewhat +exceeded my leave, to which I merely replied:—</p> + +<p>“Indeed, sir!”</p> + +<p>The other officers present, amused at this laconic answer, +burst out laughing, at which the Colonel looked very black +indeed. His temper, I soon learned, had not improved +since the battalion had removed to Aldershot, as he found +things there very far from what he had expected. He was +not nearly so much his own master as he had been at Winchester; +the constant parades irritated him, and he lived +in perfect dread of the field-days, as he was constantly being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247"></a>[247]</span> +reprimanded by the Brigadier-General in command, for not +knowing his work. These reprimands he endeavoured to +pass off on to the majors and captains, telling them that +they did not attend sufficiently to their duties; but everyone +knew with whom the fault lay.</p> + +<p>Much to the Colonel’s annoyance, both Allen and Smith +had now got their companies. Thanks to the former’s +fidelity to his Folkestone beauty, he succeeded in getting +rid of him, telling him that it would be simply impossible +for him to remain in the battalion after making such a +<i>mésalliance</i>. But he had no excuse for getting rid of Smith, +and so was obliged to put up with him, though he lost no +opportunity of showing his dislike; and it was remarked +that when offenders from Smith’s company were brought +before him, they were always more severely punished than +those from other companies. Smith, however, took it all +very philosophically, observing that, as the Colonel could +not remain in command for ever, he did not intend to gratify +him by leaving the battalion.</p> + +<p>Neither could our chief succeed in ridding himself of Robinson, +whose eccentricities caused him great annoyance. +Since the arrival of the battalion at Aldershot, “Rabelais” +had taken to sitting out of doors on warm days, arrayed in +a flaming red dressing-gown, with feet and legs quite bare +save for a pair of slippers, much to the disgust of some ladies, +who had frequently to pass by his quarters. The matter +was reported to the Colonel, who exclaimed angrily:—</p> + +<p>“Confound that Robinson! What can I do with such +a creature? He is a disgrace to my battalion!”</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, he did not dare to interfere with him personally, +but deputed the adjutant to remonstrate with him. +“Rabelais,” however, received that officer with such a +volley of oaths that he beat a precipitate retreat.</p> + +<p>Whenever Robinson wrote to me or anyone, he did so on +note-paper in the corner of which was a picture of the devil +in bright red, with black wings, seated upon a swing, and the +same device adorned the envelope. Like Ludwig of Bavaria, +he would only speak to some people from behind a screen in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248"></a>[248]</span> +his sitting-room. His sergeants, his subalterns and even +the adjutant, he would receive in this way, unless one of them +happened to come on some important business, when he +would occasionally condescend to reveal himself. His unfortunate +subalterns, if they were not to his liking, positively +trembled before him, and generally ended, like Beauclerk, +by sending in their papers.</p> + +<p>One of his subalterns, whom I recollect “Rabelais” treated +particularly badly, was a very nice fellow named Crawley, +who had lately joined. Crawley, however, put up with it, +though when the battalion was ordered to South Africa +on active service, he exchanged into the Coldstream Guards +with an officer who was killed in the first engagement. In +after years, Crawley commanded a battalion of the Coldstreams, +and died of wounds received in the Boer +War.</p> + +<p>There was a good deal of society in and around Aldershot, +and the officers of my battalion were invited out a great +deal, but our duties soon grew so heavy that we were obliged +to decline nearly all the invitations we received. Colonel +Wellesley, the governor of the military prison, and his wife +used to give very pleasant garden-parties, at which, as we +had not far to go, we were generally able to be present. +The Colonel, who was then an old man, was an uncle of the +Duke of Wellington, and Mrs. Wellesley was a most charming +woman. They had several daughters, who were very good-looking +girls, and an only son, Cecil Wellesley, a little boy +about eleven years old.</p> + +<p>A General Smythe, a retired officer of the Artillery, who +lived with his wife and daughter in a large house at Aldershot, +with extensive grounds attached to it, also used to give +garden-parties, which were always well attended. The +Smythes were very hospitable people, and everything was +admirably arranged, including the refreshment department, +of which the champagne-cup was a feature. Their daughter +was a remarkably fine tennis-player, and could, as a rule, +beat any officer who opposed her. She played in a short +skirt reaching just below the knee, and wore a collar and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249"></a>[249]</span> +tie and a man’s cap—a costume which suited her very well, +as she had a good figure and beautifully-shaped legs, but +was, in those days, considered a rather bold one for a woman +to adopt. Miss Smythe was not only a fine tennis-player, +but a most accomplished musician. When quite a young +girl, she had studied singing and composition at Dresden, +under the direction of Madame Schumann, who declared +that she had never had a pupil with so wonderful an ear +for music, as she could sing the scales without a piano in every +possible key, without the slightest fault. She was also an +excellent horsewoman and a very bold one, and Holled-Smith, +who used often to go for rides with her, told me that +she would put her horse at jumps that made him even think +twice before he ventured upon them, although he followed +the hounds regularly when his duties permitted. Some +people thought that he and Miss Smythe would make a match +of it, as they were so much together, but they remained merely +friends, and Holled-Smith eventually married another lady.</p> + +<p class="tb">One night, I was awakened by Cotton, who told me that +the fire-bugle had sounded. Pulling our great-coats over +our night-shirts, we ran towards the place where the fire had +broken out, and found that it was in the stables, which were +soon almost gutted. Two of Allfrey’s hunters were burned +to death, for though we endeavoured to save the unfortunate +animals, it was quite impossible. Indeed, we had all our +work cut out to prevent the fire from spreading to the +adjacent buildings, but, with the aid of some men with the +fire-hose, we succeeded in doing this.</p> + +<p>During Ascot week Bagot drove our coach from Aldershot +to Ascot and back, while I sat on the box-seat and occasionally +took a turn with the ribbons. Bagot was a first-rate +whip and the best in the battalion, though Allfrey and Cotton +were by no means to be despised. We lunched at the Greenjackets’ +tent, which was for the members of both Rifle +regiments, where I entertained my father and Sir George +Wombwell and his party. Among the party was the Hon. +Mrs. Crichton, whom I had met at Dover, and I was pleased<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250"></a>[250]</span> +at seeing again Savile Lumley, afterwards Lord Savile, who +had been at Eton with me.</p> + +<p>Among the Line regiments stationed at Aldershot was one +commanded by Lieut.-Colonel Deane, brother-in-law of Lord +Falmouth, who frequently used to dine at our mess, as a +guest of our chief. Lord Falmouth owned some of the best +racehorses in England, and had won both the Derby and +St. Leger. But he disliked betting, and Colonel Deane told +us that the only bet he had ever had in his life was one of +sixpence with his housekeeper. He lost, and, in payment +of the bet, gave her the sixpence set in brilliants for a brooch.</p> + +<p>There were several cavalry regiments at Aldershot, including +the 8th Hussars and the 16th and 17th Lancers. +The 16th Lancers had a circus, composed of officers and men, +which used to give performances which were highly successful; +in fact, it was almost as good as a professional circus. +Taaffe, whom I had met on my way out to India, was with +the 16th at Aldershot, and we used frequently to dine at one +another’s messes.</p> + +<p>When in town, I constantly met old Eton friends and +acquaintances, chiefly officers in the Guards. The Hon. +Alfred Egerton, who was at that time a lieutenant in the +Grenadier Guards, was a particular friend of mine and I saw +a good deal of him. Egerton told me that his colonel, Prince +Edward of Saxe-Weimar, had refused to allow his battalion +to comply with a senseless order during the manœuvres at +Aldershot on a day of almost tropical heat. Other commanding +officers, however, had not the courage to follow +his example, with the result that a great number of men +got sunstroke. In those days, the Aldershot manœuvres +took place in the height of summer, instead of, as now, in +the autumn. Several battalions of the Guards and the +“Blues” were sent to Aldershot for the manœuvres, and +amongst the Eton friends whom I met was Lord Edward +Somerset, who had exchanged from the 23rd Royal Welsh +Fusiliers into the “Blues,” where he was very popular.</p> + +<p>The day the troops were inspected by the Duke of Cambridge +rain fell in torrents. The troops had to assemble<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251"></a>[251]</span> +on parade in the early morning in full uniform without overcoats, +and to wait, standing at ease, for fully two hours in +the midst of the most drenching rain until the Duke arrived. +Many men suffered afterwards from the effects of that deluge. +I was one of them, as shortly afterwards, I was laid up with +a severe attack of rheumatic fever, which has affected my +heart ever since.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252"></a>[252]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII</h2> + +<p class="hanging">Madrid and Cordova—Seville—General von Goeben and the Bull-fight—A +View from the Alhambra—I rejoin my Regiment</p> + +</div> + +<p>I spent my winter leave in Paris, where I suffered +more or less all the time from rheumatism of the heart, +for which I took a good many Turkish baths, without, however, +obtaining much relief. My doctor told me that it +would be unwise to return to Aldershot when my leave +was up, and advised me to spend the rest of the winter in +Spain. Accordingly, I went before a medical board in +London, one of the members of which was Surgeon-Major +Clarke, of the Royal Horse Artillery, whom I had known +in India, and was granted three months’ sick leave. I returned +to Paris with my father, who had accompanied me +to London, and Lord Henry Paget (afterwards Marquis of +Anglesey), and on the following evening left the Gare +d’Orléans for Madrid.</p> + +<p>After two nights and a day in the train, I reached Madrid, +which, as it was carnival time, was very gay. I took a room +at the Hôtel de Paris, and after breakfast called on Doña +Queñones de Léon, who lived in a huge house like a palace, +and who received me in a drawing-room, in the centre of +which a small fountain was playing. In the evening, I +visited the Opera, but was not very favourably impressed +by, the performance. The following day, through the good +offices of the Marquis de San Carlos, I was able to visit the +Royal Stables and the Armeria, with which I was quite +delighted. Afterwards I walked in the Prado, which was +crowded with carriages, all the occupants of which were +masked. Some of the carriages were drawn by mules, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253"></a>[253]</span> +a few by donkeys. In the evening, I dined with the Marquis +de San Carlos, when I met Doña Queñones de Léon and two +daughters of Queen Christina and a daughter of the Marquis. +The next day I visited the Museum, and then went again +to the Prado, where I saw the King and princesses in an open +carriage. The crush was so great that one could hardly +move. After dinner, I visited Señora Queñones de Léon, +with whom I found the Marquis de San Carlos and his sons, +and, at their request, played some airs on the zither.</p> + +<p>From Madrid I went to Cordova, where I stayed at the +Hôtel Suiza. Cordova is an interesting town, containing, +as it does, so much Moorish architecture. Some of the streets +are so narrow that there is barely room for two people to +walk abreast, and it is infested by hordes of beggars, mostly +children in an almost nude condition. The smallness of +their hands and feet betray their Moorish origin.</p> + +<p>After spending a couple of days at Cordova and visiting the +Cathedral, with its pillars of porphyry, I took the train for +Seville, where I put up at the Hôtel des Quatre Nations. At +dinner that evening I sat next to a young man who, I afterwards +learned, was a son of the President of Brazil. As I +intended to remain for some time at Seville, I looked out +for a <i>casa de huespedes</i> (boarding-house), which I found in the +Plaza Nueva. The Plaza Nueva is the finest square in +Seville, and contains a great number of orange-trees, which +at night and early morning throw out the most delicious +fragrance imaginable. My rooms overlooked the Plaza, and +at times the perfume of the orange-blossoms, which the +Spaniards call “<i>azahár</i>,” was so overpowering that one felt +almost intoxicated.</p> + +<p>The <i>casa de huespedes</i> was kept by three young girls—sisters—of +the name of De Larriva, who told me that they +would teach me Spanish. The youngest, who was called +Manuela, was a very pretty brunette of seventeen, with +jet-black hair, beautiful white teeth, and those peculiar black +eyes which are rarely seen except in the South. She it was +who gave me the most instruction, for, though her two +sisters spoke French fairly well, while Manuela spoke no<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254"></a>[254]</span> +language but her own, she was by far the prettiest of the +trio, and I not unnaturally preferred being taught by her. +She began by telling me the names of the parts of the face, +and gradually taught me to pay all kinds of compliments. +By her advice, I took some lessons, besides, from a professional +teacher of the language.</p> + +<p>Life at this <i>casa de huespedes</i> was very pleasant, apart +from the food, which, to an English palate, was detestable, +for every dish was prepared with olive-oil, and even the +poached eggs tasted of it. The butter was imported from +Holland and the milk condensed. I lived chiefly on oranges, +for I found nearly everything else unpleasant to the taste. +We used to sit down twenty-five to dinner, as a number +of Artillery officers from the garrison were in the habit +of dining there.</p> + +<p>Among my fellow-guests was an Englishman of seventy, +a Mr. Heaviside, who had come to Seville on purpose to +learn to read “Don Quixote” in the original old Spanish. +Manuela used to tease him, by encouraging him to speak +Spanish, of which he knew very little. I often went with +him to a café of an evening to hear the <i>bandhurria</i> played +with the piano, and occasionally I went for a walk with the +sisters De Larriva in the fine gardens of the Paseo, where +there were many tropical plants growing out in the open +air, and lemon and orange trees perfumed the atmosphere +deliciously.</p> + +<p>An officer whom I knew, Surgeon-Major Orton, happened +to be spending his leave at Seville, and with him I went to +visit the Museum, with its lovely pictures by Murillo, and the +Alcazar, with which we were delighted, the walls being +covered with beautiful designs in the style of the Alhambra. +I also visited the Giralda, the view from which is very fine, +the Carridad, where there were many pictures by Murillo +and exquisite wood-carvings by Rollas, and the cathedral, +which is one of the largest in the world.</p> + +<p>During the winter the <i>patio</i>, or courtyard, of the houses +in Seville is but little used, but when spring comes, people +spend a great part of their time there. When Spaniards<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255"></a>[255]</span> +get together they invariably dance with castanet accompaniments. +Sometimes they dance the Seguidillas, the +Sevillana, or the Fandango, which is very pretty to watch, +as both men and women dance with so much <i>élan</i>. This +is very much the custom, even in aristocratic houses, the +looker-on applauding and exclaiming: “<i>Ollé, graziosa, muy +bien, ollé, ollé!</i>” when one of the girls attempts some +unusual feat.</p> + +<p>One evening I went with some of the people at the boarding-house +to the Calle Trajano to see the dancing there. An +exceedingly pretty little girl, of ten or eleven, though she +appeared much older, with black hair, dressed like a Spanish +woman, with a number of curls round the face, danced with +a man dancer the “<i>torrero y la Malagueña</i>.” In which dance +she displayed all the marvellous art of a <i>première danseuse</i>, +dancing on her points and executing the most difficult <i>entrechats</i>, +<i>battements</i> and <i>pas de chat</i>, which would have done +credit to a dancer double her age. Then, suddenly, she +darted across the room, with her handkerchief in her hand, +and before I had time to realize what had happened she had +thrown the handkerchief into my lap and rushed away +again. Somewhat embarrassed, I inquired of those sitting +near me what I was supposed to do, and was told that I was +expected to put some money into it, and that the little <i>danseuse</i> +would come and fetch it. After the performance, I spoke +to the little girl, who told me that her name was Salud, and +asked me to come and see her. I went the following day, +when she danced for me and gave me her photograph. Afterwards, +I often went to the Calle Trajano of an evening, where +I sometimes danced with the Spanish girls, and on one occasion +danced a polka-mazurka with Salud.</p> + +<p>During Holy Week and the “Feria,” which followed +it, Seville was crowded with visitors, and the prices at +the hôtels and <i>casas de huespedes</i> were all increased. +Among the visitors who came to my boarding-house was +General von Goeben, who commanded a division of the +German Army in the Franco-German War of 1870, and +after whom the notorious battleship of Dardanelles fame<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256"></a>[256]</span> +was named, and the Marquis de Rampa, an immensely wealthy +Spanish nobleman, and his daughter. I sat next to the +daughter, who was quite a young girl, at table, and was +obliged to make what play I could with my Spanish, as she +spoke no other language.</p> + +<p>The processions which took place day and night during +Holy Week were very imposing. Images of the Virgin Mary +figured in all of them. The trains of the dresses, which +were of immense length and generally of blue or violet velvet, +must have cost thousands of pounds, as they were most +exquisitely embroidered with gold and silver lace, diamonds, +rubies, emeralds and pearls. They were carried by young +girls. On Palm Sunday, the people who took part in the +procession were dressed in black, with their faces covered, and +palm-branches in their hands. On Holy Thursday, I went +to the Cathedral to see the Archbishop of Seville wash the +feet of the poor. There was a tremendous crush, and Baron +von Münchhausen, a Bavarian nobleman, who was with me, +had his gold watch stolen.</p> + +<p>The “Feria” was a very pretty sight. All the principal +families in Seville took part in it, each having a separate +tent, in which they entertained their friends and sold various +objects, somewhat after the fashion of our charity bazaars. +In some of these tents the saleswomen were young girls, gorgeously +dressed in red and yellow satin embroidered with +white lace and wearing white lace mantillas. To most +of the tents you had to receive an invitation before you were +allowed to enter, when you were offered chocolate or coffee, +and, in those belonging to rich families, champagne and other +wines, the buffets being laid out with a great display of +silver plate and flowers. In the evening, the different families +visited each other’s tents, and the dancing of Fandangos, +Boleros and Seguidillas was kept up until past midnight.</p> + +<p>The Carrerras de Caballos (Horse Show) was held in +another part of the grounds. Here I met Lord Torphichen, +of the Rifle Brigade, who had come from Gibraltar, where +his battalion was stationed. He was very surprised to +see me, as few British officers ever visited Seville.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257"></a>[257]</span></p> + +<p>One of the chief attractions of the “Feria” was the bull-fight, +to which all the ladies of Seville went, wearing white +mantillas and their choicest jewels. I went with Baron +von Münchhausen and General von Goeben. But the latter +took his departure very early, observing that, though he had +seen a great deal of bloodshed during the Franco-German War, +he felt quite faint and could not possibly stand any more +of such a disgusting spectacle. On my return to the boarding-house, +Manuela inquired if I had not been delighted with +the bull-fight, saying that it was the grandest sight in Spain +and that nothing gave her so much pleasure. I told her +that I thought it very cruel to the unfortunate horses, when +she rejoined that, “they were old screws and no longer of +any use.” I remarked that that did not prevent them +suffering, upon which she said that hunting was equally +cruel, and that it was a matter of prejudice and nothing +else.</p> + +<p>“Besides,” added she, “racing is cruel on the horses, +some people say.”</p> + +<p>After that I saw that it was useless to pursue the argument +further.</p> + +<p>During the “Feria,” the ladies of Seville dressed in colours, +but at other times most women and girls wore black. There +were some very pretty women in Seville, but the beauties +were generally to be found among the lower classes, most of +whom have Moorish blood in their veins, which gives them +a darker complexion, but also smaller features and very +tiny hands and feet. Théophile Gautier observes that there +is nothing more charming than the foot of an Andalusian +woman, which makes even that of a Frenchwoman appear +large.</p> + +<p>During my stay at Seville, I paid a visit to Cadiz. The +approach to Cadiz is perfectly lovely and has often been +compared to the approach to Constantinople. Seen from a +distance, the town appears to be built of the most exquisitely +white marble; while the sea, which seems to surround it, is +of a beautiful sapphire, which rivals in loveliness the heavens +above, though, as it was early morning, the colour of the sky<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258"></a>[258]</span> +was more like that of the turquoise. This illusion is destroyed, +however, when one enters Cadiz, as many of the houses are +very far from being of the snowy whiteness which distance +had lent to them.</p> + +<p>At Cadiz, where I put up at the Hôtel des Quatre Nations, +I came across a Mr. Rueff, whom I had met at Cordova, +and in his company explored the town and visited several +of the churches, where Mr. Rueff was much interested in the +wood-carving, some of which was of exquisite workmanship. +The day before returning to Seville, I went with Mr. Rueff +by rail to Jerez, where we visited the wine cellars of Señor +Misa, who supplied my own and most of the best regiments +in England with wine. Señor Misa invited us to taste some +of his best wines, including one which was bottled in the +year of the Battle of Waterloo. He told us that it was +sold at £3 the bottle, but it never left the country.</p> + +<p>Mr. Rueff accompanied me back to Seville, and together +we visited the Fondacion, where the cannons are made, +and the Casa de Pilatus, the supposed house of Pontius Pilate. +A few days later, I paid a visit to Granada, where the red +hills and grey rocks and the elm trees with their massive +foliage formed an agreeable contrast to the flat and barren +country around Seville. On entering the Alhambra, I was +fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of two English +ladies, one of whom was married to a Portuguese nobleman +and lived in the Alhambra. These ladies very kindly +volunteered to show me all over the Alhambra and explain +everything to me, an offer which I gladly accepted. The +Alhambra reminded me to some extent of the Alcazar at +Seville, as it is built in the same style of Moorish architecture, +though on a much larger and grander scale. The Court of +Lions and the adjacent rooms are exquisitely constructed, and +the marvellous decoration of the walls, with their blending +of colours and intricate designs, impart a magnificence to +the “<i>tout ensemble</i>” almost impossible to describe.</p> + +<p>One of the most exquisite views I can remember, I had +when the sun was setting from one of the windows of the +Alhambra, from which I could see the mountains of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259"></a>[259]</span> +Sierra Nevada, with their summits covered in snow. The +colours which the sun’s declining rays imparted to the clouds +were of all the various shades of the opal, making some +of the tiny clouds appear like roses in the heavens, and the +heavens themselves as though on fire. Then gradually the +colours became more subdued, and every shade melted away, +from the deepest red to the most delicate violet, leaving here +and there a bunch of roses, which resembled in their pale +<i>nuance</i> the Souvenir à la Malmaison or Blanche Laffitte. +This was the effect of the after-glow.</p> + +<p>The next day, the two ladies took me to see the Cartuja +and the Cathedral, and on the following afternoon I went +with them for a drive into the country, during which I had +a splendid view of the Sierra Nevada. After dinner, I went +again to the Alhambra to take leave of my kind friends, and +heard the nightingales sing as I had never heard before or +since in my life.</p> + +<p>Early next morning I left Granada for Seville. At a +lonely spot beyond Antequeria the train came to a stop, owing +to the line being blocked by a broken-down engine, and we +were told that it might be some time before we should be +able to proceed. Many of the passengers appeared greatly +alarmed, and, on inquiring the reason, I was informed that +this part of the country was infested by brigands, who might +at any moment come down upon us. However, we saw nothing +of these gentry, and at the end of a couple of hours the +engine which barred our way was got off the rails, and we +continued our journey.</p> + +<p>Towards the end of April, the weather became intolerably +hot at Seville, and I reluctantly decided to bring my stay +there to a close. I accordingly bade farewell to Manuela +and my other friends at the <i>casa de huespedes</i> and took the +train for Madrid, where I again put up at the Hôtel de Paris. +I stayed for some days at Madrid, visited two or three of the +principal theatres and dined with Doña Queñones de Léon, +the Marquis de San Carlos, and other people whom I knew. +I also went several times to the Museum, where I made the +acquaintance of a Señorita Hélène de España, a wonderfully<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260"></a>[260]</span> +pretty girl of seventeen, who was engaged in copying a +painting by Van Dyck. This Señorita Hélène de España +was a blonde with blue eyes and fair hair, a type of beauty +not often met with in Spain, but it appeared that she was of +English descent on her mother’s side, though she could not +speak English. She seemed to be a young lady of a rather +romantic temperament, for, after a very short acquaintance, +she told me that I might serenade her by night beneath her +window. But I did not avail myself of this permission, +which I often regretted since not having done.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Madrid, I spent a day at Toledo, where, +under the wing of a guide, I visited the Cathedral of San Juan +de los Reyes, the Jewish synagogue, and the royal manufactory +of steel weapons. This manufactory is one of the +best in Europe, and the way in which the upper part of the +blades of the swords and daggers made here is inlaid in gold +and silver gives them a very costly as well as a very charming +appearance. Some of the weapons were for sale, and I +purchased a very fine dagger, beautifully inlaid with gold +arabesque designs. These daggers are of so fine a steel +that they will easily pierce a silver coin without breaking. +Toledo is one of the oldest towns in Spain, and the last place +in which the Jews were allowed to reside before they were +banished from Spain. This accounts for its inhabitants +having a Jewish cast of countenance.</p> + +<p>I arrived in Paris on my birthday, May 5th. The Exhibition +had now begun, and I visited it on several occasions with +my father and other friends. I was much interested in the +prize zithers sent by Anton Kiendl of Vienna, which were +truly beautiful instruments, and very delighted with the +playing of a Hungarian gipsy band in the Austro-Hungarian +section of the Exhibition. At the Grand Opéra I heard +<i>l’Africaine</i> for the second time, and also went to the Théâtre +de la Renaissance to see <i>le Petit Duc</i>, in which Mlle. Granier +and Emil Meyer sang, and to the “Français,” where I saw +Got, Coquelin and Mlles. Reichemberg, Agar and Croizette +in <i>les Fourchambault</i>. I attended a race-meeting at Longchamps +with my father, where we met the Hon. Albert Bingham<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261"></a>[261]</span> +and Howard Vyse, who returned with us to Paris, and in +the evening we went to Musard’s Concert, at which the Prince +of Wales was present. Altogether, I had a very pleasant +time, but my three months’ sick leave was now on the point +of expiring, and I was obliged to return to England to rejoin +my regiment.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262"></a>[262]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII</h2> + +<p class="hanging">I meet Byron Again—I endeavour to Exchange—Basil Montgomery—My +Illness—Why I was not Placed on Half-pay</p> + +</div> + +<p>My Colonel appeared anything but pleased at my return. +He had, it seems, been hopeful that my application +for sick leave was but a preliminary step to my resigning my +commission, when he had intended to replace me by a friend +of his from the 4th Battalion; and was, therefore, naturally +disappointed at my reappearance upon the scene.</p> + +<p><i>À propos</i> of colonels and the way in which they treated +officers to whom they happened to have taken a dislike, +there was, just about this time, a great scandal in another +battalion of my regiment.</p> + +<p>Among the subalterns of this battalion was a certain +Lieutenant Gilbert, who was very popular with his brother-officers; +but his Colonel, who was a terrible martinet, +persecuted him to a shameful degree and lost no opportunity +of making his life a burden to him. One day, during a parade +in which this officer was right guide of his company, the +Colonel bullied him in a way which disgusted everyone. +Suddenly, after being sworn at in the most disgraceful manner, +the poor young fellow, his powers of self-control exhausted, +threw down his sword. The Colonel at once ordered the +Adjutant to place him under arrest, and he was subsequently +tried by court-martial, found guilty of insubordination on +parade and cashiered. At the same time, the Colonel was +told that he must retire from the Service at once. It was +said that, had Gilbert not thrown down his sword, matters +would have turned out very differently, for the Colonel +had behaved so outrageously that he would have been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263"></a>[263]</span> +cashiered himself, that is to say, if anyone had had the courage +to bring his conduct to the notice of his superiors; and, as +the battalion was on the point of mutiny, this would probably +have been done.</p> + +<p>The 2nd Battalion, 10th Regiment, to the command of +which my friend Byron had recently succeeded, had just +arrived at Aldershot, and I was naturally delighted to see +him again. He invited me to dine at the 10th’s mess, where +I spent a most pleasant evening. During dinner, Byron +said:—</p> + +<p>“You were very foolish to leave us. If you had stayed, +as you may remember I advised you to do, you would have +had me for your C.O., and would have had a very easy time of +it, and have been able to do as you pleased.”</p> + +<p>He added that, in his opinion, there was no comparison +between the two Rifle regiments, so far as the social position +of officers serving in them was concerned, and that, from +what he had heard, as his brother was a major in my regiment, +but in a different battalion (He later commanded the +2nd Battalion), I was not only in the inferior regiment, but in +its worst battalion, commanded by a chief about whom +few people seemed to have a good word to say.</p> + +<p>All this was only too true, and I could only reply that, +had I been able to see a little into the future, I would certainly +have remained with the 10th Regiment. It was unfortunate, +too, my not being able to remain with the 2nd Battalion of +the Rifles in India, as I liked them all very much.</p> + +<p>In May, the German Crown Prince, who was on a visit +to England, came down to Aldershot to inspect the troops. +We could well have dispensed with the honour he did us, +as it was a pouring wet day and bitterly cold, and by the +time we got back to camp we were drenched to the skin. +This experience, as may be supposed, did not do me any good, +although I felt no ill effects at the time.</p> + +<p>I was in town a good deal during the season, and went +several times to the Opera, where I heard Patti in <i>Il Barbiere +de Seviglia</i>, <i>Don Giovanni</i>, <i>Aïda</i> and <i>Semiramide</i>, Albani +in <i>Atala</i>, the Spanish tenor Gayarré in <i>Lucrezia Borgia</i> and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264"></a>[264]</span> +Jean de Reszke in <i>les Huguenots</i>. Early in July, my father +came over to England, and I went with him to the Eton +and Harrow match at Lord’s, where we lunched on Tom +Hohler’s drag. Jim Doyne was in town, and I saw a good +deal of him, and we often lunched and dined together. In +fact, on my visits to London I generally contrived to have a +very good time; but at Aldershot things were not so pleasant, +and matters came to a head on the day my battalion was +inspected by Brigadier-General Anderson.</p> + +<p>The inspection passed off pretty satisfactorily. Each +officer in succession was called up by the Brigadier and told +to put his men through certain movements. The Brigadier +found fault with two of the officers, and complained about +them to the Colonel, who, however, assured him that on +ordinary occasions their work was quite satisfactory. I +was now in command of Allen’s company, and when my +turn came, I had no difficulty in performing all the requisite +movements, and was complimented by the Brigadier, who +then turned to the Colonel and remarked:—</p> + +<p>“I can find no fault with this officer; he knows his work +better than some of the others.”</p> + +<p>“I don’t know how it is, Sir,” replied the Chief, with +difficulty concealing his annoyance, “but to-day he seems +smarter than usual.”</p> + +<p>The Colonel, it appeared, had made a very bad report on +me to the General, which would have been sent to the War +Office if the latter had confirmed it; but this the Brigadier +told him he was quite unable to do. The Colonel then said +that it was in looking after my company that I was deficient, +to which his superior replied that he would see into the matter +and send for us both in a day or two.</p> + +<p>I had written to General Sir John Douglas, K.C.B., who +commanded the Forces in Scotland, and had married a +daughter of Earl Cathcart, complaining of my Chief’s treatment +of me; and Sir John had written to Brigadier-General +Anderson about me. It was owing to this that the latter +watched me so carefully, in order to see if I were really so +ignorant of my work as my Chief had represented, and,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265"></a>[265]</span> +having satisfied himself to the contrary, he had decided to +investigate my case further.</p> + +<p>However, the Colonel, having got rid of Beauclerk and +Allen, had now made up his mind to get rid of me also. +Accordingly, he sent Major Northey to advise me to exchange +into another battalion, as he was determined that I should +not remain in his. The Major said that it was no good my +trying to resist so obstinate a man as the Chief, and named +an officer whom the Colonel was anxious to have in his +battalion, who would probably be willing to exchange with +me.</p> + +<p>“You know what he is when he has once taken a dislike +to anyone,” he added. “Remember Beauclerk’s case. +If you will take my advice, you will communicate with the +officer I have mentioned at once.”</p> + +<p>I said that I would do as Major Northey advised, and +wrote to the officer in question, who replied that, as he was +short of money, he would only exchange in consideration of +my paying him the sum of £300. He pointed out that his +battalion was remaining in England, while mine would +shortly be going on foreign service, and perhaps even on +active service.</p> + +<p>I may mention that some time before this I had been told +by my cousin, Emily Cathcart, that I had a very good chance +of being chosen as private secretary to the Duke of Argyll, +who was then Governor of Canada; but eventually a relative +of his was offered the post.</p> + +<p>The Colonel, in the belief that I was about to exchange, +now became quite amiable towards me. At times he would +send Wilkinson, the Adjutant, to ascertain how matters were +progressing, and I was not a little amused by the way in +which Wilkinson, who did not wish me to suspect the object +of his visit, would lead up to the subject.</p> + +<p>The eccentricities of our Chief at this time caused the whole +battalion great annoyance. It was an unusually hot summer, +and he used to inspect us of a morning wearing mufti and +holding a huge white umbrella over his head, a precaution +which he explained by saying that he had had a touch of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266"></a>[266]</span> +sun whilst serving in India. If this were really the case, it +probably accounted for his constant outbursts of temper. +At these inspections, he was accustomed to display the most +exasperating solicitude about the men’s uniform, inspecting +each man separately, and fingering every button to ascertain +whether it were loose or not. This sort of thing, which +could, of course, have been very well undertaken by the +company commanders in barracks, instead of by the C.O. +on parade, under a broiling sun, used sometimes to occupy +hours, and was naturally very trying indeed to everyone.</p> + +<p>One morning, towards the end of July, I was playing at +single-stick with Holled-Smith, when I received rather a +severe hit on the side, which made me feel so ill that I went +to bed and sent for our surgeon, who told me that my liver, +from which I had suffered so much in India, was affected. He +made me remain in bed for several days, at the end of which I +was well enough to return to duty.</p> + +<p>A day or two later, I was told by the Adjutant that I had +to go with him to Brigadier-General Anderson, and that the +Colonel would be there. The General asked me several +questions on military matters, all of which I answered +correctly, and then requested the Colonel to tell him in what +he found fault with me.</p> + +<p>“I find that he does not pay sufficient attention to his +duty,” answered my Chief.</p> + +<p>“But,” observed the General, “you said first of all that he +does not know his work, which I find not to be the case. Now +you say that he does not pay sufficient attention to his duty; +but I have inspected his company, and I do not find it in +any way less well looked after than the other companies +in your battalion. I really cannot agree with you in your +opinion, and must make notes upon the report you have +forwarded to me.”</p> + +<p>The General then dismissed us, and I returned to my +quarters, very relieved at the result of the interview.</p> + +<p>The other officers were naturally very anxious to know +what had happened, and, when I told them, all advised +me to remain in the battalion, and not to exchange,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267"></a>[267]</span> +saying that the Chief had shown himself to be in the wrong, +and that the General, who was a first-rate officer, must have +seen at once that it was nothing but spite on his part, for +which he would no doubt severely reprimand him. Captain +de Robeck, whose advice was nearly always worth following, +said to me:—</p> + +<p>“If you exchange, it will cost you £300, and I don’t +think it is worth it. I should brave it out, were I in your +place.”</p> + +<p>The other officers told me the same, and declared that it +would show great weakness on my part if I left the battalion.</p> + +<p>As events turned out, I had no option in the matter, since +my father, to whom I had written asking for the £300 I +required to purchase my exchange, could not see his way +just then to let me have the money, as he had been so robbed +by a lawyer, a trustee. And so I had to “brave it out,” +<i>bon gré, mal gré</i>, and to derive what consolation I might from +the reflection that, after what had happened, I should probably +have an easier time of it, and should no longer have to endure +all the extra parades which the Chief had been in the habit +of inflicting upon me.</p> + +<p>Vain illusion! So far from being allowed a rest, I found +that I had, if possible, more to do than ever, the Adjutant +having apparently received orders from the Chief to give me +all the extra work he could possibly find for me to do. And, +even without these extra parades, the work in the hottest +weeks of an exceptionally hot summer would have been quite +heavy enough. Thorne, an old Etonian, an excellent young +man, one of the nicest lieutenants in the regiment, advised +me to ask for a Court of Inquiry, which he felt sure the +General would approve of, and would very likely ask for +himself, without my applying for one.</p> + +<p>One night, Basil Montgomery, who had been in the 2nd +Battalion with me in India, dined at our mess. He told me +that he was on the point of going out to India again, as private +secretary to his brother-in-law, the Duke of Buckingham, +who was Governor of Madras. He added that he disliked +India, and would prefer to be a crossing-sweeper in England<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268"></a>[268]</span> +than a prince out there, but that he was obliged to accept the +post that had been offered him. However, he only remained +about six months in India, as he did not hit it off with the +Duke, who was a very difficult person indeed to get on with.</p> + +<p>Towards the end of the season (through my cousin, Miss +Anne Cathcart), I was asked by Herr Schultz, from whom the +Princess of Wales was then taking lessons on the zither, to +play at a concert which was to be given shortly at Marlborough +House. I willingly consented and went up to +town several times to practise for the concert, which, unhappily, +I was to be prevented from taking part in.</p> + +<p>For some time I had again been suffering from rheumatism, +which affected my heart. I consulted Sir William Jenner, +who warned me not to exert myself too much. But this +advice I was unable to follow, as though the regimental +surgeon made an application to the Chief for me to be excused +some of the parades, it was at once refused.</p> + +<p>One intensely hot day, we were kept on parade for a long +while with nothing but our forage-caps to protect us from the +scorching sun. Suddenly, I experienced the most excruciating +pains in the head, and felt as if everything about me was turning +round. This giddiness soon passed, but on coming off +parade I felt very unwell. However, as I was orderly officer +of the day, I performed everything that was required of me.</p> + +<p>That evening at mess, where I was acting as vice-president, +I suddenly turned to the officer on my left, one of the senior +lieutenants, Thorne, and said:—</p> + +<p>“I have lost the use of my right hand and foot!”</p> + +<p>Thorne poured me out some brandy and told me to drink +it off, but on trying afterwards to rise from my seat, I fell +down. Thorne and another officer assisted me to my quarters, +where, remembering that I had to turn out the guard, I +tried to buckle on my sword, only to fall again. They then +put me to bed, and sent for Surgeon Comerford, who at once +declared that I was suffering from sunstroke. My father was +telegraphed for, and, on his arrival, asked Surgeon-Major +McCormack to visit me. The latter took so serious a view of +the case, saying that I had but a few hours to live, that my<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269"></a>[269]</span> +father lost no time in calling in a London specialist, who said +that my heart was in a bad way and that I must have had a +sunstroke on parade. When I grew a little better, my father +wished to take me to Paris, but the London doctor advised +my not being moved for several weeks.</p> + +<p>The Colonel, who was perhaps experiencing some twinges +of remorse for the manner in which he had treated me, came +to visit me and was very kind, sending me fruit and game. +He had, however, previously dispatched Gunning to ascertain +if I intended to resign my commission, as, in the event of my +being placed on half-pay, the Colonel said the battalion might +have a year or two to wait for my place to be filled up, and +we were very short of officers. Besides this, Gunning was +anxious himself to obtain my step in promotion, though he +did not say so on this occasion.</p> + +<p>I had several visitors while I was confined to my quarters, +apart from my brother-officers. One day, Mrs. William Adair +and her daughter came to see me, and were very surprised +at finding me so ill, as only a few days before I had walked +over from Aldershot to spend the day at their house at Whiteways +End, a distance of six miles. Mrs. Adair, who was a +grand-daughter of the Duke of Roxburghe, was considered +one of the most beautiful women in England. Her daughter, +who was then sixteen, was also extremely pretty, though of +a very different type of beauty from her mother, being very +fair. Mrs. Wellesley sent her little son “Cissy” to cheer me +up several times, in which task he was very successful, as he +was always most pleasant company.</p> + +<p>It was some weeks before I was able to leave Aldershot, +as I had almost entirely lost the use of my right arm and leg. +The Colonel wanted me to be examined there by a Medical +Board, consisting of Surgeon-Major McCormack and Surgeon +Comerford, and, though several officers in my regiment +advised me to have the Board held in London, he got his way +in the matter. No one was supposed to know the result of +the Board until it had been approved of by the War Office.</p> + +<p>So soon as I was well enough to stand the journey, I went +up to London, accompanied by my father and my soldier-servant,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270"></a>[270]</span> +Spearing. On the advice of Dr. Russell-Reynolds, +my father took me to Paris to consult Professor Charcot and +Dr. Brown-Séquard, who at first held out some hopes of +my recovery. The War Office had granted me three months’ +leave, and, when it expired, as I had not recovered the use of +my limbs, they refused to place me on half-pay, and on +the 1st of January 1879, I was obliged to resign my commission. +The reason they gave was that the Medical Board at +Aldershot had stated that my illness was not caused in and by +the Service.</p> + +<p>The Earl of Berkeley, who wrote my letter of resignation +from Paris for me, as I was unable to do so myself, said in +this:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>In conformity with the instructions I received from the +War Office, I have forwarded my resignation to the officer in +command of my battalion. I had ventured to hope that a +certificate I forwarded to the Colonel of the regiment from one +of the most eminent consulting physicians in Paris, stating +that my illness was the result of sunstroke, might have pleaded +my cause with H.R.H. the Commander-in-Chief. I have +another certificate which I have not under the circumstances +taken the liberty of forwarding to you, but I would gladly do +so, if I thought my case might be pleaded with H.R.H.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p>A further letter, also written for me by Lord Berkeley, +was sent to my Colonel:—</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>Although I have the opinion of the most eminent physicians +that my unfortunate illness was the result of sunstroke sustained +when on duty, I yield to the decision of the Field-Marshal +Commander-in-Chief, and hereby tender my resignation of +H.M. Service.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p>General Sir John Douglas, then commanding the Forces +in Scotland, wrote to me:</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> + +<p>“<i>I have found out, through General Taylor (79th Highlanders), +at the War Office, that it is through your Colonel’s +influence that they have refused to place you on half-pay, and +it is quite impossible to overcome this influence.</i>”</p> + +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271"></a>[271]</span></p> + +<p>A year or two afterwards, I happened to meet Surgeon +Comerford in London, when I reproached him for not mentioning +my sunstroke at the Medical Board at Aldershot. +He assured me that he was prepared to swear on the Bible +that he had done so, adding that my Colonel could not have +forwarded his report correctly to the War Office, or else I +should have been placed on half-pay. He had fully expected +that I should have been, and was surprised that such was not +the case.</p> + +<p>I may here mention that there were only two medical +officers on the Board: Surgeon-Major McCormack and +Surgeon Comerford. The former had only seen me once +before in his life, so I presume the report must have been +written by Surgeon Comerford; but, as I have never seen the +report, I cannot be quite certain.</p> + +<p>Captain Howard Vyse, late of the “Blues,” said to me in +Paris, when I showed him a letter which I had received from +the War Office:—</p> + +<p>“Thank God! such a thing could not happen with the +Household troops. The officers would not allow it either. +To lose one’s health in the Service, and then to receive no +compensation whatever! I never heard of such a case; +it is simply disgraceful!”</p> + +<p>In recent years—in 1909—several officers who had served +with me, including my Colonel, the late General Sir W. +Leigh-Pemberton, forwarded letters to the War Office, stating +that they remembered my sunstroke at Aldershot as being +the cause of my paralysis,<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> and I forwarded medical certificates +to prove that my paralysis was the result of sunstroke +while on duty there. The reply received by General Sir H. +Geary, K.C.B., was that the Army Council had made an +inquiry, and that “no evidence can be traced to show that +he sustained a sunstroke while on duty at Aldershot in +August, 1878. In any case, it would seem practically impossible<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272"></a>[272]</span> +to prove that his present disability was the outcome +of illness contracted in and by the Service more than thirty +years ago. Not only the absence of confirmatory records, +but the whole procedure at the time is out of keeping with +the theory that his resignation was due to illness caused +by military duty.”</p> + +<p>Sir William Gull, under whose treatment I was for some +years, in the early eighties, told me that my paralysis was +caused by embolism, owing to the sunstroke at Aldershot in +1878, adding that he had a very bad opinion of Army doctors +in general, who were constantly making dreadful mistakes, +and indeed, were no better than the doctors mentioned by +Lesage in <i>Gil Blas</i>.</p> + +<p>In 1918, Field-Marshal Lord Grenfell, who was formerly +in the 1st Battalion of my old regiment, had great hopes of +obtaining a pension or retired pay for me from the War +Office, but so far his most kind efforts on my behalf have +been fruitless. It would appear that philosophy is not at +all studied at the War Office, for they persist in maintaining +that it is possible for the same thing to be and not to be, +which is contrary to the ideas of the most abstruse philosophers. +With regard to the Ministry of Pensions (whose +Secretary is Sir Matthew Nathan), above its portals ought +to be written “Lasciate ogni Speranza.” It is to be hoped +that with Mr. Winston Churchill, the author of “Savrola,” +as Secretary of State for War, some ideas of justice may be +imparted to both of them. I hope so, not only for my own +sake, but for that of the whole Army.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">THE END</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="footnotes"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</h2> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> I heard from the late Lady Ritchie, Thackeray’s daughter, some little +time before her death. She was kind enough to be interested in this book, +but told me that she was a young girl when her father was at Homburg and +had scarcely any recollection of those days. My father used often to observe +that Thackeray was one of the most charming and amusing men he ever +knew, and seemed surprised when I told him that I remembered so little +of him at Homburg, saying that he was nearly always with us at the Kursaal +or in the grounds of the Kurhaus and was exceedingly fond of me.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Henry Greville writes in his diary, under date October 12th, 1846: “Came +to Worsley with Slade, found here party assembled to meet the Duchess of +Gloucester. Lady Caroline Murray was in attendance on the Duchess, +who is the most amiable and least troublesome Princess it is possible to see.”</p> + +<p>One day a very nervous lady called on the Duchess of Gloucester, a daughter +of George III., and remained a long time, being under the impression that +Her Royal Highness would give the signal when she wished her to withdraw, +and fearing to commit a breach of etiquette if she rose before the duchess. +However, after a very long time, Her Royal Highness rose and left the room, +upon which the lady retired. The latter was in great distress when she +was subsequently told of the mistake she had made. This incident was related +to me by my mother, who was acquainted with the lady at the time.</p> + +<p>I may perhaps mention here an incident about Queen Adelaide, wife of +William IV., who had a very slight acquaintance with the English language. +One of the first sentences she learned by heart was: “How are you off for +soap?” Her Majesty was so pleased at being able to speak a little English +that she asked this question of every lady whom she happened to address, +smiling amiably the while. Some of them were rather astounded, but there +was a certain fascination in this phrase which took Her Majesty’s fancy, +and it may be that the look of surprise on the faces of some of the old dowagers +added to her delight and made her repeat it all the more. This anecdote +was told me by a lady who had known Queen Adelaide personally and was +often with her.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> In after years, at Aldershot, I knew the late General Lord C——, son +of the above mentioned Lady C——, very well. Once, at a concert, I played +a piece of music on the zither, for which I received an encore, but a string of +the instrument having broken, had to be replaced before I could take it. +Lord C—— was kind enough to make a short speech for me and explain to +the large audience what had happened, as I did not feel equal to doing so +myself. He was a most kind and affable man and a good general, though the +War Office, with their usual <i>manque de tact</i>, blamed him in the Zulu War +for the faults of others as well, whose errors they wished to conceal. But, +as General von Goeben, the celebrated Prussian general of division in the +Franco-German War of 1870, said to me at Seville, where I lived in the same +<i>casa de huespedes</i> with him for some weeks, <i>à propos</i> of an affair of another +kind: “What can you expect from a Secretary of State for War, who is a +civilian. You might just as well have an old washerwoman (<i>Wäscherin</i>) at the +head of your War Office. She might perhaps even be more useful.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Count Perponcher always selected the ballet dancers for the Opera in +Berlin. Many years ago I made the acquaintance at Milan of a lovely, +fair Polish girl, Marie Urbanska by name, who was studying dancing there, +and danced occasionally in the ballet at La Scala. She was then sixteen, +and during her stay at Milan, all her expenses were paid by Count Perponcher. +The Emperor William always called her “the little Countess” (<i>die Kleine +Gräfin</i>), as her father was a Polish count, and she was still second <i>danseuse</i> +at the Berlin Opera twelve years ago. One night, as she was ascending the +stairs at the Villa Manzoni, where I too was staying, she was seized and gagged +and conveyed to the house of a gentleman, who told her that he was in love +with her. But she insisted on leaving the house, which he allowed her to +do. The man in question, who was a German, was obliged to leave Milan, +in consequence of this affair, which, however, was hushed up, as he came of +a well-known family in Germany.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> The late Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild told a young English girl of +sixteen whom I knew that, if he could by some means regain his youth, +like Faust in Goethe’s play, and be the same age as she was, he would willingly +give up his entire fortune. He was then about fifty-four years of age. When +the young lady in question repeated this to a late member of the Turf Club +in my presence, the latter observed: “Ferdy must have set a high value +on his youth, for I asked him to let me have £200 lately for a common friend +who was at school with us and is now ruined, which he refused to do. Consequently, +I have quarrelled with him for ever.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> <i>À propos</i> of Napoleon, it is strange how great was his fondness for music. +A person whose voice flattered his ear rarely displeased him. But, if a name +had a harsh sound, he muttered it between his teeth, and never uttered it +aloud. Grillparzer says of Napoleon: “Er war zu gross, weil seine Zeit +zu klein.” (“He was too great, because the age in which he lived was too +little.”) Napoleon imagined that he would have made Corneille a prince +if he had lived in his time, but it is more likely that he would have imprisoned +him for life.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> The late Henry Labouchere’s grandfather was, as a young man, a clerk +in a bank in Somersetshire, and in receipt of a salary of about £80 a year, +when he fell in love with Sir Francis Baring’s daughter. As, in ordinary +circumstances, he had not the smallest chance of obtaining the consent +of the lady’s father, he conceived the following ingenious plan of overcoming +the difficulty.</p> + +<p>Presenting himself before the senior partner of the bank in which +he was employed, he inquired whether it would be possible for him to +become a partner forthwith. The banker burst out laughing. “What, +you!” he exclaimed. “Why, you are only a junior clerk. How can you +ever think of such a thing? The idea is simply ridiculous.” “But supposing,” +rejoined Labouchere, with perfect aplomb, “that I had already +received the consent of Sir Francis Baring to marry his daughter?” “Oh, +that alters the case entirely. If what you say is true, then you could, of +course, easily become a partner.” Labouchere then approached Sir Francis +Baring and asked him for his daughter’s hand. That important personage +was even more indignant at the young man’s presumption than the banker +had been, and told him what he thought of it very plainly. “But supposing,” +said Labouchere, not a whit disconcerted, “that I am not what you think I +am, but a partner of the bank.” The baronet’s manner changed. “If,” he +answered, “you are a partner of the bank, as you tell me, I will talk the +matter over with my daughter.” In the result, Labouchere married Sir +Francis Baring’s daughter and became, at the same time, a partner in the +Somersetshire bank. His son was created Lord Taunton, and Henry +Labouchere would have been heir to the title, but, as it was only a life peerage, +it did not descend to him. This anecdote was related to me by an uncle of +mine by marriage, who was Clerk of the Peace for the county of Somerset. +I have heard it also related by others.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Desseins Hôtel has been demolished in recent years. It was a most +luxurious hôtel, and is mentioned in the works of Sterne, Thackeray and +Dickens.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Godfrey Astell told me a rather amusing story about himself when I +was in the regiment with him. He had been invited to shoot over a large +estate in Scotland, and one of the gamekeepers looked particularly well after +him all day, pointing out where the best beats and coverts were, and exclaiming +every time a pheasant rose: “Godfrey, now’s your chance!” It subsequently +transpired that the man, on hearing Astell called Godfrey by his +friends, was under the impression that this was some high title he possessed, +having no idea that it was only his Christian name.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> I had a letter before the war from Mr. Winston Churchill, Lord Randolph’s +son, in answer to one in which I had told him that, in certain respects, he +reminded me of Mirabeau, and that I was convinced that he would become +Prime Minister before very long.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> I heard from Lord Willoughby de Broke, the son of the one mentioned +here, some years ago. He was then <i>en route</i> for the Caucasus, and he +told me that he had read my book on Paris and Vienna with pleasure and +interest, though he was not aware at the time by whom it was written. He +is one of the most energetic members of the House of Lords, and it is to be +hoped that he will do everything in his power to recover for it its lost prestige.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Grillparzer says that it has often struck him that Shakespeare took some +of his ideas from Lope de Vega’s plays. Shakespeare’s Miranda, he says, +could be compared with the character it resembles in <i>Los tres diamantes</i>, +and the love-scenes in the latter are quite on a par with those in “Romeo and +Juliet.” The plot of “The Merry Wives of Windsor” is similar to that of +<i>Los ferias de Madrid</i>. As for <i>Los pleitos de Inglaterra</i>, he regards this play +as incomparable, and the love-scenes in “Romeo and Juliet” appear almost +to pale in comparison. “I wish,” he continues, “Lessing had known +Calderon and Lope de Vega. He would perhaps have found that there was +more connection with the German <i>esprit</i> than in the far too gigantic Shakespeare. +Perhaps “Macbeth” is Shakespeare’s greatest work; it is without +doubt the most realistic.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> During the four years I was at Eton, we won the “Ladies’” at Henley +every time. The winning crews were composed as follows:—</p> + +<p>1867: W. D. Benson (captain), A. G. P. Lewis (stroke), T. McClintock-Bunbury, +W. G. Calvert, J. H. Ridley, R. W. Morehouse, G. H. Woodhouse, +J. E. Edwards-Moss, F. H. Elliot (cox).</p> + +<p>1868: T. McClintock-Bunbury (captain and stroke), W. C. Calvert, J. E. +Edwards-Moss, F. A. Currey, J. Goldie (K.S.), F. Johnstone, J. W. +McClintock-Bunbury, W. Farrer, F. E. Elliot (cox).</p> + +<p>1869: J. E. Edwards-Moss (captain), F. A. Currey, F. Johnstone, J. W. +McClintock-Bunbury (stroke), F. C. Ricardo, J. S. Follett, F. E. H. Elliot, +M. G. Farrer, W. C. Cartwright (cox).</p> + +<p>1870: F. A. Currey (captain), J. W. McClintock-Bunbury (stroke), F. C +Ricardo, J. S. Follett, A. W. Mulholland, C. W. Benson, R. E. Naylor, A. +C. Yarborough, W. C. Cartwright (cox).</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> The Eton Eleven, during the four years I was there, was composed as +follows:</p> + +<p>1867: C. R. Alexander (captain), C. I. Thornton, W. H. Walrond, H. M. +Walter, W. C. Higgins, C. J. Ottaway, W. F. Tritton, M. Horner, W. H. +Hay, E. Wormald, P. Currey. Match drawn.</p> + +<p>1868: C. I. Thornton (captain), H. M. Walter, W. C. Higgins, C. J. Ottaway, +W. F. Tritton, W. H. Hay, P. Currey, Hon. G. Harris, J. Maude, S. E. Butler, +G. H. Longman. Harrow beat Eton by seven wickets.</p> + +<p>1869: W. C. Higgins (captain), G. H. Longman, A. S. Tabor, F. W. Rhodes, +F. Pickering, J. P. Rodger, Lord Clifton, C. J. Ottaway, M. Maude, Hon. +G. Harris, E. Butler. Eton won by an innings and nineteen runs.</p> + +<p>1870: Hon. G. Harris (captain), G. H. Longman, A. S. Tabor, F. W. Rhodes, +F. Pickering, J. P. Rodger, Lord Clifton, G. H. Cammell, M. A. Tollemache, +A. F. Ridley, Hon. A. Lyttelton. Eton won by twenty-one runs.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> <i>À propos</i> of Peterborough, I once heard a good story about a Bishop of +Peterborough—Dr. Magee, I think—which was told me by my tutor +at Eton. Some people, who had never seen him, were very anxious to hear +him preach and therefore went early in the morning to the cathedral to +secure good seats. A man showed them over the cathedral, where they +retained the best seats they could find, and, on leaving, one of the party gave +their cicerone, whom they took for the verger, five shillings. The latter +put the money in his pocket, and then to their astonishment said: “I am +not the verger, but the Bishop of Peterborough himself. However, I shall +keep the five shillings all the same, for I have found you a good pew, and what +I have received I shall give to the poor.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> The Hon. Thomas Fitzwilliam, who was then in the 10th Hussars, married +Elgiva Kinglake, whose brother was at Eton with me. She was very pretty +and a remarkably good rider, but she died quite early in life, and her husband +did not long survive her. She was a great friend of Mary, Duchess of Hamilton, +and I remember once, at a meet of the Devon and Somerset Staghounds +on the Exmoor hills, being much struck by the beauty of the Duchess, who +was present with Elgiva Fitzwilliam, for they always hunted with these +hounds in those days.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> Jim Doyne, in later years, bore some resemblance to the late King +Edward VII., then Prince of Wales, and at Pratt’s, one evening, the late Duke +of Beaufort walked up to him, and, holding out his hand, said: “I wish +you good evening, sir.” Doyne felt very flattered at the mistake, which, +however, the Duke at once discovered. Nevertheless, when meeting my +friend afterwards, he would always address him as “Sir” for amusement, +and Doyne, who had a gift for repartee, would give an appropriate reply.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Voltaire believed sincerely in God, but no one nowadays even thinks +of reading his correspondence, which shows us all his faults, his kindheartedness, +his charity, and his other good qualities. One of the strongest features +in Voltaire’s character was his sense of friendship. Génonville, who took +away his mistress, Mlle. Livy, from him, remained his friend, and Voltaire +laments his death in a poem of marvellous beauty, with all the warmth of +truth. This poem and the one which follows it, <i>les Vous et le Tu</i>, in which +also Mlle. Livy is referred to, are two of his most beautiful poems. Of +Rousseau, Grillparzer says: “I read <i>les Confessions</i> and am terrified +to recognize myself in them.” How Rousseau would have been surprised +if someone had called him the most perfect egoist. He lived with the woman +who was so devoted to him and never married her, although it would have +been a great happiness to her to bear his name. Corneille, according to +Grillparzer, was an excellent poet, and his first works were admirable, but +his later ones show a steady decline from his early standard, which is difficult +to explain, except perhaps after reading his tragedy, <i>Feodora</i>. In Grillparzer’s +opinion, Racine was as great a poet as ever lived.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> “My darling,—I am obliged to start immediately for Mexico; I have +not even time to come to bid thee good-bye.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> Mr. Howard Vyse, the father of these young men, came to see me in +Paris after I had left Bonn. He dined with us, I recollect, and we afterwards +went to a theatre, and from there to various places of amusement, so that it +was nearly daybreak before we reached the Hôtel Bristol, in the Place Vendôme, +where he was staying, and where he insisted on my passing what +remained of the night. As he offered me an exceedingly comfortable bedroom, +I did not refuse. I dined a few days later with him and his wife at +the “Bristol,” where they had a suite of apartments usually reserved for +royal personages, which the late King Edward VII. had occupied just previously. +While we were at dinner a courier came into the room to inquire +if everything were satisfactory. This man’s services, it appeared, had been +exclusively engaged by Mr. Howard Vyse, and he was accustomed to order +dinner and settle the accounts. Mr. Howard Vyse told me that he was obliged +to remain three months at the Hôtel Bristol owing to his wife’s state of +health, as the doctor would not allow her to travel to Nice, where he intended +spending the winter. He was a very wealthy banker from New +York, and the two sons who were at Bonn with me were his only children.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> The sister of Sir Howard Elphinstone, at one time Equerry to the late +Duke of Edinburgh, related to me that, when she was in Germany with her +brother, they went one day to secure places for some ceremony in which +a good many royal persons were interested. When they entered the room, +a man showed Sir Howard Elphinstone the places reserved for him and his +family, and as this person wore a kind of dress coat with gold lace, Sir Howard +took him for a man-servant, and, on going away, slipped a thaler into his +hand, which he accepted without making any remark. Later in the evening, +Sir Howard and his sister discovered that the man whom they had tipped +was Bismarck, who at that time, of course, was not so celebrated as he subsequently +became.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> Darwin’s theory has of recent years been disproved by men of science, +such as Professor Dr. von Wettstein, Warning, Henslow, and others. Only +in certain instances can Darwin’s theory be accepted; but it has been discovered +recently that the new formation of species among plants and animals +is possible in different ways, and not only in the manner Darwin implies. +His theory of descent, which was firmly believed in by men of science in the +sixties and seventies of the last century, is now pronounced to be a theory +altogether out of date, and has been superseded by those of Moriz Wagner, +Karl von Nägeli, Henslow, A. von Kerner and Professor A. Weissmann. +“The Origin of Plant Structures by Self-Adaptation to the Environment,” +by Henslow, published in 1895, and Warning’s “Geography of Plants,” +published in the following year, are well-known English books on this subject +which may be recommended to those interested in it.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> Baron von der Goltz is proud of his stupidity.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Grillparzer says of Heine that his first verses in the <i>Reise Bilder</i> and +some of his last poems are of great merit, while those of the intermediate +period must be considered decidedly bad.</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> Another lady employed by the Russian Government to worm out State +secrets was the Countess Stadnicka, whose acquaintance I made in recent +years in Vienna, and she would often ask me the most difficult questions, +which I never attempted to answer. She told me that for information of +a certain nature she was often paid very large sums. The Countess Stadnicka +had very lovely blue eyes, which were universally admired, and a fine figure, +but she was no longer in her first youth. She was the mother of Graf von +Metternich, who was the owner of vast estates and a minor, and the Countess +had a lawsuit in Vienna to obtain control over her son’s property during his +minority. She was a wonderful linguist, speaking English, French, German, +Italian and Russian fluently, and could tell one more about the Austrian +nobility than anyone else I ever met in Vienna, as she was a Viennese by +birth, and her father, who was one of the old nobility himself, had occupied +a high position. She seemed to know everyone, but though a woman of +wonderful intelligence, she had a rather spiteful tongue, and was therefore +feared by some people. She always spoke to me in French and often said: +“<i>Vous êtes drôle, vous, car vous n’aimez que le fruit pas mûr, ce qui est d’abord +très fade et n’a point de goût</i>.”</p> + +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> The names of these officers were: The late Lieut.-General Sir W. Leigh-Pemberton, +K.C.B.; Major-General Sir Charles Holled-Smith, K.C.M.G.; +Colonel Ernest Hovell Thurlow; Major C. H. B. Thorne, J.P.; Lieut. +Horace Neville; Colonel Alfred Clarke, M.D., and Major C. de Robeck.</p> + +</div> + +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273"></a>[273]</span></p> + +<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> + +</div> + +<ul> + +<li class="ifrst">Aberdour, Lord, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Adair, Mrs. William, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Adelaide, Queen, <a href="#Footnote_2">5 (<i>note</i>)</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Adelsdorfer, Baroness, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Adelsdorfer, Madame, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Airey, Lord, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Albani, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Aldershot, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Allfrey, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Algar, Major, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Alhambra, The, Granada, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Alexander, C. R., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Alison, General Sir A., <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Allen, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Anderson, Brigadier-General, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Andrä, Professor Dr., <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Andrews, Mrs., <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Anglesey, Marquis of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Annesley, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Armytage, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Arnold, Dr., <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Arthy, Captain, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ashburnham, Major, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Astor, Lord, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Auerbach, Berthold, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Aylmer, Percy, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Babington, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bagot, Colonel Sir Josceline, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bagot, Adjutant A. G., <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Baird, George, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Baldock, Colonel, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Balfour, Charles, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Balfour, Miss Hilda, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Baring, Viscount, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Barnard, Lord, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Batchelor, Veterinary-Surgeon, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bean, Capt. and Mrs., <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Beauclerk, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Beauclerk, Miss, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Beaumont, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Beck, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Belgrave, Viscount, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><i>Bell’s Life</i> substitute for Bible, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bennett, Viscount, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bentheim, The Princes, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Benyon, Captain, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Berkeley, Earl of, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Berkeley, Lord, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Berkeley, Captain Lennox, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, + <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bernhardt, Sarah, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bernstorff, Count, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bethell, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bingham, Hon. Albert, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Binz, Professor Dr., <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Black Forest Adventures, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Blane, M., <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Blewitt, Major, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Blocqueville, Marquise de, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Blount, Edward, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274"></a>[274]</span>Bois-Hébert, Marquis de, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Boland, Major, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bonn, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Boulogne, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bozzo, Mademoiselle Checchi, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Bromley, Capt., <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Brown-Séquard, Dr., <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Browning, Oscar, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Brownrigg, Capt., <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Burgh, Capt. Hubert de, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Byron, Capt. John, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Cambridge, Duke of, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Campden, Viscount, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Campobello, Signor, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Candle, The diminishing, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cantelupe, Lord, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Caracciolo, Duchesse de, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Card playing, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Carpenter, Captain, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cartwright, General, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cathcart, Lady Georgina, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cathcart, Hon. Emily, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cavendish-Bentinck, Arthur, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cercle des Patineurs, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Chantilly, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Charcot, Professor, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Charleville, Lord, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Charltons, The, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Chatham Barracks, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Childe-Pemberton, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“Christopher Inn,” <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Christy Minstrels at Chatham, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Churchill, Lady, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Churchill, Lord Randolph, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Clanmorris, Lord, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Clarke, Sydenham, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Clarke, Surgeon-Major, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cockshot, Mr., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Collins, Major, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Combermere, Viscount, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Comerford, Surgeon, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cotton, Lieutenant C. S., <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Cramer, Captain, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Craven, Fulwar J. C., <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Crawford, Colonel, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Crichton, Hon. Mrs., <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Crofton, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Crompton, Captain, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Czartoryski, Princess, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Czerwinska, Countess, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">d’Abrantès, Duchesse, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dalton, Rev. W., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dannecker’s statue, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Daram, Mademoiselle, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Darwin’s theory disproved, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">d’Assailly, Vicomte Arthur, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">d’Attainville, M. de Lesquier, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">D’Aubigny, Comte, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Daudet, Alphonse, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">d’Aumale, Duc, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Deane, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">de Houghton, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Delaunay, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Delbrück, Hans, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Desart, Countess of, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Desclée, Aimée, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dickenson, Lieutenant Fiennes, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dillon, Lord, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dillon, Sub-Lieutenant A., <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Disraeli, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dorrien, Captain Frederick, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Douglas, General Sir John, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Douglas, Captain Niel, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Douglas, Charles, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Doyne, Lady Frances, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Doyne, James, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, + <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, + <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Doyne, Mrs., <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Doyne, Mr. Mervyn, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Drexel Brothers, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“Dry bobs,” <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Duff, Folliot, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Dunn, Captain, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Durnford, Rev., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275"></a>[275]</span>Dusauty, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Earning a living, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Edwards-Moss, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Egerton, Hon. Alfred, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ehnn, Fräulein, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Elwes, Captain, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Erroll, Countess of, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Eschenheimer Thor, The, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Eton, Happy days at, <a href="#Page_65">65 <i>et seq.</i></a></li> + +<li class="indx">Etonian <i>cachet</i>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Eugene, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Falmouth, Lord, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Faverney, Comtesse de, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Featherstone, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ferrières, Château de, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Finch, Hon. Charles, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Finch-Hatton, Rev. William, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Finch-Hatton, Greville, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Finis, Miss, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Fire burning for two hundred years, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Firing the eighty-ton gun, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">FitzWilliam, Earl, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">FitzWilliam, Charles, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">FitzWilliam, Hon. John, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">FitzWilliam, Hon. Thomas, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Foley, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Football “colours,” <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Four millionaires, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Francisco-Martin, M. de, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Franco-German War, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Frankfurt-on-the-Main, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Frederick, Lady, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">French girls and English girls, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Gambetta, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gayarré, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Geary, General Sir H., <a href="#Page_271">271</a></li> + +<li class="indx">German Crown Prince, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">German girls, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gilbert, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Girard, Juliette, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Glen, Archibald, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Godfrey, Dan, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Goeben, General von, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Goethe, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Goldschmid, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Goldsmid, Mrs., <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Goltz, von der, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gordon, Miss, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Græme, Colonel, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Grammont, Duchesse de, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Grandmaison, Marquis de, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Grant, General, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Graves, Hon. Mrs., <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Greenock, Viscount, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Grenfell, Lord, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Greuze’s paintings, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gridley, Harry, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gridley, Reginald, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Griebel, Herr, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Grosvenor, Earl, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Guilbert, Marquise Brian de Bois, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gull, Sir William, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Gunning, Sub-Lieutenant Robert, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Hale, Mr., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Harris, Lord, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hart, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hartopp, Sir Charles E. C., <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Havre, Baron van, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hawtrey, Mr. Stephen, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Headley, Lord, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Healy, Mrs., <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Heaviside, Mr., <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hélène de España, Señorita, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Henley Regatta, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Herbert, Hon. Sidney, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hobart, Captain, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hochberg, Dr. Ritter von, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hodgson, Charles Rice, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hohler, Tom, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Holled-Smith, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Homburg, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Home-Purves, Colonel, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hope, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hope-Johnstone, Lieutenant P., <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hornby, Dr., <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276"></a>[276]</span>Horrocks, Capt., <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Horrocks, Miss Edith, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Houghton, de, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Howard, Lieut. F., <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hozier, J. H. C., <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hudson, Major, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hudson, Mrs., <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hungerford, Mrs., <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hunter, Captain, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hunter’s, Mr., school, <a href="#Page_42">42 <i>et seq.</i></a></li> + +<li class="indx">Hutchinson, Sir Edward, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Hutchinson, General Coote, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Ind, Mrs., <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Innes-Ker, Lord Mark, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Isabella, ex-Queen of Spain, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Isabelle, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">James, Rev. C. C., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Jenner, Sir William, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Joynes, Rev., <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Kennedy, Lord Alexander, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Keogh, Mrs., <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kernave, Madame Alice, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Killarney, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kilmaine, Vicomte Frédéric de, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kineton School, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">King (Leopold) of Belgians, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">King William I. of Prussia, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kinglake, William, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kinglake, Sophia, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kinloch, Captain A., <a href="#Page_187">187-8</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kinloch, Mrs., <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kirchhofer’s, Herr, School, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Kisilieff, Madame, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Klenck, Freiherr von, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Knightley, Rev. Henry, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Knox, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Krauss, Madame, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Labitzky, Auguste, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Labouchere, Henry, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lamoury (violinist), <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lane, General Ronald, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lassalle, Ferdinand, and German women, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Laval, Mademoiselle de, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lavaile, Eugénie de, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lawn tennis, Origin of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lawrence, George, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leigh, Austin, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leigh-Pemberton, Lieutenant-Colonel W., <a href="#Page_222">222</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leinster, Duke of, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leleu, Madame, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leopold II. and his hairdresser, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lesseps, M. de, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lewinsky, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Leyton’s at Windsor, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Liegnitz, Princess, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Linda, Bertha, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lister-Kaye, Cecil, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lister-Kaye, John, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Little, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lloyd, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lockwood, Sir Frank, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lonsdale, Earl of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“Lord’s,” <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lovell, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_170">170-172</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lovett, Hubert, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, + <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lowther, Captain Francis, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lumley, Savile, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Luxmoore, Mr., <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Lyons, Lord, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">McCall, Colonel, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">McClintock-Bunbury, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">McCormack, Surgeon-Major, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">MacDonnell, Dr., <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Macnamara, Surgeon-Major, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Magruder, Willing Lee, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Makart, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Malet, Sir Edward, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Malortie, Baron de, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Maltby, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Mandeville, Lord, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Manners, Henry F. B., <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277"></a>[277]</span>Marsham, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Masini, Mademoiselle, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Massey, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Materna, Frau, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ménier, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Metternich, Princess von, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Meux, Lady Louisa, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Milbanke, Frederick, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Misa, Señor, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Mitchell, R. A. H., <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Moltke, Count von, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Montgomery, Colonel H. P., <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Montgomery, Basil, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Moore, Colonel Montgomery, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Morny, Duc de, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Münchhausen, Baron von, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Murray, Lady Caroline, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Murray, Lieutenant-General Hon. George, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Murree and Ischl compared, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Musard’s concerts, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Nares, Sir George, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Naylor-Leylands, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Neii, Baron von, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Neuss, Herr, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">New hats for old, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Newcastle, Duke of, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Newcastle, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Newenham, Mr. (“Sporting Parson”), <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Newlands, Lord, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Northey, Major, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Oden Wald, The, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Olga, Grand Duchess, and Ludwig II., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Onslow, Earl of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Oppenheim, Frau, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Orloff, Princess, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Orton, Surgeon-Major, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ostend, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Oyster, The, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Paganini, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Paget, Lord Henry, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Paradhenia, Garden of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Paris, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Parnell, Hon. V. A., <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Parnell, Miss Fanny, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Parry, Sir Hubert, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Paschinger, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Patti, Adelina, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Pauli, Captain, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Peabody Georges, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Pembroke and Montgomery, Earl of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Peñafiel, Marchioness de, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“Penny Readings,” <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Perponcher, Count, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Peterborough’s, Bishop of, “tip,” <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Phipps, Hon. Harriet, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Phipps, Lieutenant Albert, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Piétri, Madame, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Piétris, The, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Plater, Countess Broel, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Plessen, Baron von, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Portman, Hon. E. W. B., <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Prince Consort and Duchess of Sutherland, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Prussia, King of, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Queñones de Léon, Doña, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Radziwill, Prince Jean, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ralli, Augustus, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rampa, Marquis de, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rathdonnell, Lord, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ranyard, Mr. (astronomer), <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Reeves, Sims, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Reid, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Reszke, Jean de, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Reuss, Prince, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rey, Marquis de, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Reynardson, Aubrey Birch, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li class="indx">Ricardo, Horace, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Riddell, Captain, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ridley, C. N., <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ridley, H. M., <a href="#Page_95">95</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278"></a>[278]</span>Riggs, Mrs. Joe, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ritter, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Robartes (11th Hussars), <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Robeck, Captain de, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Robinson, Captain, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ronalds, Mrs., <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rossmore, Lord, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rothschild, Baron F. de, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rothschild, Baroness I. E. de, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rothschild, Alphonse de, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rueff, Mr., <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Ruspoli, Princess, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Russell, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Russell-Reynolds, Dr., <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Russian Court secrets, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Rutland, Duke of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Saba, Madame, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">St. James’s Palace, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Saint Hilaire, Madame, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Salis Schwabe, Miss, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Salud, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Salvini, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">San Carlos, Marquis de, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Sanford, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Savile, Captain, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Seville, Archbishop of, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Saxe-Weimar, Prince Edward of, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Schiller, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Schneider, Hortense, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Schultz, Herr, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Schwender’s Dancing Hall, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Shorncliffe, Quarters at, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Sighicelli, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Simon, Jules, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Sivori, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Slade, Cecil, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Slade, Harry, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Smythe, General, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“Sock”-shops, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Somerset, Lord Edward, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Southey, Lieutenant Richard, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Spa, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Stafford, Lady Grace, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Stafford, Marquis of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Stormont, Viscountess, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Strauss, Johann, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Sully, Mounet, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Sunstroke, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Taaffe, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Taffanel, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Taille des Essarts, Comtesse de la, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Taintegnies, Baron de, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Tarver, Mr. Henry, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Taylor, Charles, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Temple (“Mug”), <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Tercin, Gabrielle, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Thackeray, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Thackeray, St. John, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">The Alhambra, Granada, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">The diminishing candle, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">“The Oyster,” <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Thorne, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Thornton, C. I., <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Thurlow, Lieutenant E. Hovell, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Torphichen, Lord, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Trafalgar, Lord, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Trianon, le Petit, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Tufnell, Captain, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Tufton, Captain, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Tugwell, Mr., <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Vane, Henry de Vere, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Vane-Tempest, Hon. Henry, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Vaughan, Arthur Powys, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Vay, Baron de, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Versailles, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Victoria, Queen, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Vyse, Howard, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Wagner, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Walden, Lord Howard de, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Walden, Lady Howard de, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Waldteufel (composer), <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Walker, H. B., <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Warre, Rev. Edmund, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Warre-Malet, Sir A., <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279"></a>[279]</span>Warre-Malet, Miss Mabel, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Warre-Malet, Mrs., <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Warren, Miss Minnie, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Waterlot, Mademoiselle, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wayte, Mr., <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wellesley, Colonel, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Westminster, Duke of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wilkinson, Lieutenant E. O. H., <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Williamson, C. D. Robertson, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Willing, Misses Lee, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wilma, Tournay, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Winchester, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Windsor Fair, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Winkelmann, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Winsloe, Mrs., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wolter, Charlotte, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wombwell, Sir George, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wood, Sub-Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Woodforde, Mrs. Charles, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Würtemberg, King and Queen of, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Wylie, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">York, Duke of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Yorke, Hon. Mrs., <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li> + +<li class="ifrst">Zauerthal, Ritter von, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Zither, The, Lessons on, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> + +<li class="indx">Zither performances, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> + +</ul> + +<p class="titlepage">PRINTED AT<br> +THE CHAPEL RIVER PRESS,<br> +KINGSTON, SURREY.</p> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 75853 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/75853-h/images/cover.jpg b/75853-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..17d5003 --- /dev/null +++ b/75853-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/75853-h/images/illus01.jpg b/75853-h/images/illus01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9817cec --- /dev/null +++ b/75853-h/images/illus01.jpg diff --git a/75853-h/images/illus02.jpg b/75853-h/images/illus02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1a7f380 --- 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