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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/8564-8.txt b/8564-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..69b074a --- /dev/null +++ b/8564-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14048 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central +Africa, by Mungo Park + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Life and Travels of Mungo Park in Central Africa + +Author: Mungo Park + +Release Date: July, 2005 [EBook #8564] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on July 23, 2003] +[Date last updated: December 5, 2005] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Beginners Projects, Beth Trapaga, +Tonya Allen, Steen Christensen, Thomas Berger, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + +TRAVELS IN AFRICA. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: Mungo Park] + + * * * * * + +LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK + + +With a full narrative of + +Subsequent Adventure in Central Africa. + + +[Illustration: The Lion quietly suffered us to pass, though we were +fairly within his reach.] + + * * * * * + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Knowledge of the Ancients concerning Africa. Herodotus. Strabo. The +Arabs. Early discoveries of the Portuguese and English. Ledyard. Lucas. +Houghton. Park's birth and parentage. His education. Serves his +apprenticeship as a surgeon. Sails for Bencoolen. African association +engage Park's services. His preparations and departure. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Park's motives for undertaking the voyage--his instructions and +departure--arrives at Jillifree, on the Gambia River--proceeds to +Vintain. Some account of the Feloops. Proceeds up the river for +Jonkakonda--arrives at Dr. Laidley's. Some account of Pisania, and the +British factory established at that place. The Author's employment during +his stay at Pisania--his sickness and recovery--the country +described--prepares to set out for the interior. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and Mandingoes. +Some account of the trade between the nations of Europe and the natives +of Africa by the way of the Gambia, and between the native inhabitants of +the coast and the nations of the interior countries--their mode of +selling and buying, &c. + + +CHAPTER III. + +The Author sets out from Pisania--his attendants--reaches Jindy. Story +related by a Mandingo Negro. Proceeds to Medina, the capital of Woolli. +Interview with the King. Saphies or charms. Proceeds to Kolor. +Description of Mumbo Jumbo--arrives at Koojar--wrestling match--crosses +the wilderness, and arrives at Tallika, in the Kingdom of Bondou. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Some account of the inhabitants of Tallika. The Author proceeds for +Fatteconda--incidents on the road. Crosses the Neriko, arrives at +Koorkarany--reaches the River Faleme--Fishery on that river--proceeds +along its banks to Naye or Nayemow--crosses the Falemé, and arrives at +Fatteconda. Has an interview with Almami, the Sovereign of Bondou. +Description of the King's dwelling--has a second interview with the King, +who begs the Author's Coat. Author visits the King's wives--is permitted +to depart on friendly terms. Journey by night--arrives at Joag. Some +account of Bondou and its inhabitants, the Foulahs. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Account of Kajaaga. Serawoollies--their manners and language. Account of +Joag. The Author is ill treated, and robbed of half of his effects, by +order of Batcheri, the king. Charity of a female slave.--The Author is +visited by Demba Sego, nephew of the King of Kasson, who offers to +conduct him in safety to that kingdom. Offer accepted. The Author and his +protector, with a numerous retinue, set out and reach Samee, on the banks +of the Senegal. Proceed to Kayee, and, crossing the Senegal, arrive in +the kingdom of Kasson. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Arrival at Teesee. Interview with Tiggity Sego, the king's brother. The +Author's detention at Teesee. Some account of that place and its +inhabitants. Incidents which occurred there. Rapacious conduct of Tiggity +Sego toward the Author on his departure. Sets out for Kooniakary, the +capital of the kingdom. Incidents on the road, and arrival at Kooniakary. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Author admitted to an audience of the King of Kasson, whom he finds +well disposed towards him. Incidents during the Author's stay at +Kooniakary. Departs thence for Kemmoo, the capital of Kaarta. Is received +with great kindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades him from +prosecuting his journey, on account of approaching hostilities with the +King of Bambarra. The Author determines, notwithstanding, to proceed: and +the usual route being obstructed, takes the path to Ludamar, a Moorish +kingdom. Is accommodated by the king with a guide to Jarra, the frontier +town of the Moorish territories; and sets out for that place, accompanied +by three of the king's sons, and 200 horsemen. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy. Some account of the Lotus. A youth +murdered by the Moors--interesting scene at his death. Author passes +through Simbing. Some particulars concerning Major Houghton. Author +reaches Jarra--situation of the surrounding states at the period of his +arrival there, and a brief account of the war between Kaarta and +Bambarra. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Some account of Jarra, and the Moorish inhabitants. The Author applies +for and obtains permission from Ali, the Moorish chief or sovereign of +Ludamar, to pass through his territories. Departs from Jarra, and arrives +at Deena. Ill treated by the Moors. Proceeds to Sampaka. Finds a Negro +who makes gunpowder. Continues his journey to Samee, where he is seized +by some Moors, who are sent for that purpose by Ali. Is conveyed a +prisoner to the Moorish camp at Benowm, on the borders of the Great +Desert. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Various occurrences during the Author's confinement at Benowm--is visited +by some Moorish ladies. A funeral and wedding. The Author receives an +extraordinary present from the bride. Other circumstances illustrative of +the Moorish character and manners. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Occurrences at the camp continued. Information collected by the Author +concerning Houssa and Tombuctoo; and the situation of the latter. The +route described from Morocco to Benowm. The Author's distress from +hunger. Ali removes his camp to the northward. The Author is carried +prisoner to the new encampment, and is presented to Queen Fatima. Great +distress from want of water. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Containing some further miscellaneous reflections on the Moorish +character and manners. Observations concerning the Great Desert, its +animals, wild and domestic. + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Ali departs for Jarra, and the Author allowed to follow him thither. The +Author's faithful servant, Demba, seized by Ali's order, and sent back +into slavery. Ali returns to his camp, and permits the Author to remain +at Jarra, who, thenceforward, meditates his escape. Daisy, King of +Kaarta, approaching with his army towards Jarra, the inhabitants quit the +town, and the Author accompanies them in their flight. A party of Moors +overtake him at Queira. He gets away from them at daybreak. Is again +pursued by another party, and robbed; but finally effects his escape. + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +The Author feels great joy at his deliverance, and proceeds through the +wilderness; but finds his situation very deplorable. Suffers greatly from +thirst, and faints on the sand.--Recovers, and makes another effort to +push forward. Is providentially relieved by a fall of rain. Arrives at a +Foulah village, where he is refused relief by the Dooty, but obtains food +from a poor woman. Continues his journey through the wilderness, and the +next day lights on another Foulah village, where he is hospitably +received by one of the shepherds. Arrives on the third day at a Negro +town called Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra. + + +CHAPTER XV. + +The Author proceeds to Wassiboo. Is joined by some fugitive Kaartans, who +accompany him in his route through Bambarra. Discovers the Niger. Some +account of Sego, the capital of Bambarra. Mansong the king refuses to see +the Author, but sends him a present. Great hospitality of a Negro woman. + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Departure from Sego, and arrival at Kabba. Description of the shea, or +vegetable butter tree. The Author and his guide arrive at Sansanding. +Behaviour of the Moors at that place. The Author pursues his journey to +the eastward. Incidents on the road. Arrives at Modiboo, and proceeds for +Kea, but obliged to leave his horse by the way. Embarks at Kea in a +fisherman's canoe for Moorzan: is conveyed from thence across the Niger +to Silla--determines to proceed no further eastward. Some account of the +further course of the Niger, and the towns in its vicinage towards the +East. + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The Author returns westward. Arrives at Modiboo, and recovers his horse. +Finds great difficulty in travelling in consequence of the rains and the +overflowing of the river. Is informed that the King of Bambarra had sent +persons to apprehend him. Avoids Sego, and prosecutes his journey along +the banks of the Niger. Incidents on the road. Cruelties attendant on +African wars. The Author crosses the river Frina, and arrives at Taffara. + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +Inhospitable reception at Taffara. A Negro funeral at Sooha. The Author +continues his route through several villages along the banks of the +Niger, until he comes to Koolikorro. Supports himself by writing +_saphies_--reaches Maraboo--loses the road; and, after many +difficulties, arrives at Bammakoo. Takes the road for Sibidooloo--meets +with great kindness at a village called Kooma;--is afterwards robbed, +stripped, and plundered by banditti. The Author's resource and +consolation under exquisite distress. He arrives in safety at Sibidooloo. + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Government of Manding. The Author's reception by the Mansa, or chief man +of Sibidooloo, who takes measures for the recovery of his horse and +effects. The Author removes to Wonda. Great scarcity, and its afflicting +consequences. The Author recovers his horse and clothes. Presents his +horse to the Mansa, and prosecutes his journey to Kamalia. Some account +of that town. The Author's kind reception by Karfa Taura, a slatee, who +proposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry season, with a caravan of +slaves. The Author's sickness, and determination to remain and accompany +Karfa. + + +CHAPTER XX. + +Of the climate and seasons. Winds. Vegetable productions. Population. +General observations on the character and disposition of the Mandingoes; +and a summary account of their manners and habits of life; their +marriages. + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +The account of the Mandingoes continued. Their notions in respect of the +planetary bodies, and the figure of the earth. Their religious opinions, +and belief in a future state. Their diseases and methods of treatment. +Their funeral ceremonies, amusements, occupations, diet, art, +manufactures. + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Observations concerning the state and sources of slavery in Africa. + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Of gold-dust, and the manner in which it is collected. Process of washing +it. Its value in Africa. Of ivory. Surprise of the Negroes at the +eagerness of the Europeans for this commodity. Scattered teeth frequently +picked up in the woods. Mode of hunting the elephant. Some reflections on +the unimproved state of the country, &c. + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Transactions at Kamalia resumed. Arabic MSS. in use among the Mahomedan +Negroes. Reflections concerning the conversion and education of the Negro +children. Return of the Author's benefactor, Karfa. Further account of +the purchase and treatment of slaves. Fast of Rhamadan, how observed by +the Negroes. Author's anxiety for the day of departure. The Caravan sets +out. Account of it on its departure, and proceedings on the road, until +its arrival at Kinytakooro. + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +The coffle crosses the Jallonka Wilderness. Miserable fate of one of the +female slaves. Arrives at Sooseeta. Proceeds to Manna. Some account of +the Jallonkas. Crosses the main stream of the Senegal. Bridge of a +singular construction. Arrives at Malacotta. Remarkable conduct of the +King of the Jaloffs. + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +The caravan proceeds to Konkadoo, and crosses the Falemé River. Its +arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, and Tambacunda. Incidents on the road. A +matrimonial case. The caravan proceeds through many towns and villages, +and arrives at length on the banks of the Gambia. Passes through Medina, +the capital of Woolli, and finally stops at Jindey. The Author, +accompanied by Karfa, proceeds to Pisania. Various occurrences previous +to his departure from Africa. Takes his passage in an American ship. +Short account of his voyage to Great Britain by way of the West Indies. + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +Horneman's journey from Egypt to Fezzan. Attempts to penetrate to the +south. Nicholls--Roentgen--Adams. + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Park's arrival at Pisania. Returns to England. Reception from the African +Association. Visits Scotland. Publication of his travels. Popularity of +the work. Settles as a surgeon at Peebles. Proposed Expedition to Africa. +Sir Walter Scott's account of Park. Park's arrangements completed. +Receives his instructions, and sets sail. + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +Arrival at St. Jago. Reaches Goree. Letters from that place. Arrival at +Kayee--hires a guide, and sets out. Difficulties. Woolo-Bamboo. Tornado. +Sickness of the soldiers. Park's situation. Bambarra. Attacked by lions +at night at Koena. Isaaco attacked by a crocodiles. Depredations of the +natives. Cross the Ba-Woolima, Nummasoolo. Illness of Messrs Scott and +Martyn, and of Mr. Anderson. Reach the Niger at Bambakoo. + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +Distressed state of Park. Mortality in the expedition. Negociations with +Mansong. Interview with Modibinnie. Park's speech. Reaches Sansanding. +Death of Mr. Anderson. Park builds a schooner. Letters from Sansanding. +Departs from Sansanding. Uncertainty respecting his fate. Isaaco's +narrative. Confirmed by subsequent travellers. Account of Park's death. +His character. + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +Expedition of Tuckey--of Peddie--and Gray. + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +Major Denham, Captain Clapperton, and Dr. Oudney arrive at Mourzouk. +Boo-Khaloom. The desert. Tibboos and Tuaricks. Lake Tchad. Shiek of +Bornou. Expedition to Mandara. Attack on Dirkulla. Defeat of the army. +Major Denham's escape. Death of Boo-Kaloom. Major Denham visits Loggun. +Fishing on the river Yeou. The Shouaa Arabs. Death of Dr. Oudney. Arrival +at Kano. Sockatoo. Denham and Clapperton return by Kouka. + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +Captain Clapperton sets out on a second journey. Death of three principal +members of the expedition. Clapperton and Lander reach Eyeo. Arrive at +Kacunda. Enter the Borgoo country. Lander's escape from Lions. Kiama. +Boussa. Nyffe. Zeg-Zeg. Attack of Coonia. Residence in Sockatoo. Death +and burial of Clapperton. Lander's return. + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +Major Laing--his murder. Caillie reaches Timbuctoo. His march across the +Desert. + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +Richard and John Lander set out. Badagry. Journey to Kiama. African horse +race. Kakafungi. Boussa. Sail up the Niger to Yaoorie. Embark at Boussa. +Island of Zagoshi. Dangerous situation of the travellers. Egga. Hostile +demonstration of the natives. The Landers attacked. Carried to Eboe. King +Obie. Conduct of Captain Lake. Arrive at Fernando Po. Remarks on the +discovery of the Niger's termination. + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +Messrs Laird, Oldfield, and Lander, set out in the Quorra and Alburkah. +Attack of the natives. Leave Eboe. Mortality on board the vessels. +Capture of an alligator. Aspect of the Niger near the Kong Mountains. The +Quorra aground. Fundah. Mr. Laird returns to the coast. Richard Lander +wounded. His death. Return of the Alburkah. Conclusion. + + * * * * * + +INTRODUCTION. + +_Progress of African Discovery, before Park's first Expedition.--Park's +Early Life._ + + +The first information we have respecting the interior of Africa is +derived from Herodotus, who, during his residence in Egypt, endeavoured +to collect as much intelligence as possible respecting the general aspect +of the country. He describes it as far less fertile than the cultivated +parts of Europe and Asia, and much exposed to drought, with the exception +of a few verdant spots. To the northern coast, he gives the name of the +forehead of Africa; and says that immediately south from it, the +comparative fertility of the soil rapidly decreases. There are natural +hills of salt, out of which the inhabitants scoop houses to shelter +themselves from the weather; rain they have not to fear, as scarcely a +drop ever alights upon that sultry region. Farther south still, there is +no food to support man or beast--neither shrub, nor a single drop of +water; all is silence and utter desolation. Herodotus then proceeds to +relate a number of monstrous fables, which bear an overwhelming +proportion to the parts of his narrative which are now known to be true. +He also describes a large inland river, which some have supposed to be +the Niger, flowing from west to east. He acquired this information from +the reports of various travellers, who stated that after a long journey +to the interior, they had themselves seen it. This account was confirmed +by several other ancient authors; but for a long time the question was +agitated by modern writers as to whether the Gambia or the Senegal was +not the river spoken of; some even denying the existence of the Niger +altogether. + +The fables of Herodotus were repeated, with a number of additions, by +Diodorus; but the narrative of Strabo, in regard to the northern and +western coasts, is somewhat more particular and authentic: it adds +nothing, however, to our acquaintance with the interior. The Greeks, +under the government of the Ptolemies, navigated the Red Sea, and carried +on a trade with Egypt; and some settlements were made by them in that +country. Ptolemy Euergetes conquered part of Abyssinia, and established a +kingdom, of which Axum was the metropolis; and remains of Grecian +architecture have since been found in that quarter. To the two districts +we have mentioned, the knowledge which the ancients possessed of Africa +was almost exclusively confined; though Herodotus speaks of two voyages +which had been undertaken with a view to determine the shape of the +continent; but as nothing interesting can be gleaned from his indistinct +narrative, and as the reality even of these voyages has been disputed, it +seems unnecessary to give any account of them. + +As in this brief sketch we are to confine ourselves entirely to +discoveries made in the interior of Africa, we shall not mention either +the various voyages made along the shores, or the different settlements +formed upon the coast, as this would lead us far beyond our narrow +limits. + +The Arabians were the first who introduced the camel into Africa, an +animal whose strength and swiftness peculiarly suited it for traversing +the immense expanse of burning sands. By means of caravans, the Arabians +were enabled to hold intercourse with the interior, whence they procured +supplies of gold and slaves; and many of them migrated to the south of +the Great Desert. Their number rapidly increased, and being skilled in +the art of war, they soon became the ruling power. They founded several +kingdoms; the principal one, called Gano, soon became the greatest market +for gold, and, under the name of Kano, is still extensive and populous, +being the chief commercial place in the interior of Africa. The Arabian +writers of the twelfth century, give the most gorgeous, and we fear +overrated, accounts of the flourishing state of these kingdoms. + +In the fourteenth century, Ibn Batuta, an abridged account of whose +travels has been recently translated by Professor Lee of Cambridge, made +a journey into Central Africa. After having travelled twenty-five days +with a caravan, he came to a place which Major Rennel supposes to be the +modern Tisheet, containing the mine whence Timbuctoo is supplied with +salt. The houses he describes as built of slabs of salt, roofed with +camels' hides. After other twenty days he reached Tashila, three days' +journey from which he entered a dreary desert, where was neither +sustenance nor water, but only plains and hills of sand. Ten days brought +him to Abu Latin, a large commercial town much frequented by merchants. +This place Mr. Murray conjectures to have been Walet, the only large city +in that quarter. + +In twenty-four days Ibn Batuta reached Mali, which it has been found +impossible to identify with any modern city. He found a haughty potentate +residing there, whose subjects paid him the greatest deference, +approaching prostrate to the throne, and casting dust upon their heads. +The trees in this neighbourhood were of immense bulk; and in the hollow +cavity of one he saw a weaver carrying on his occupation. Near this he +saw the Niger, but conjectured it to be the Nile, and supposed it to flow +by Timbuctoo, Kakaw, (Kuku), Yuwi, and thence by Nubia to Egypt. + +Leo Africanus penetrated into the interior of Africa about two centuries +after Ibn Batuta. From his description, it would appear that the aspect +of Central Africa had considerably changed during this interval. +Timbuctoo was a powerful and opulent kingdom; and Gago (evidently the +Eyeo of Clapperton), and Ghinea, (probably the Jenne of Park), were +flourishing cities. The merchants of Timbuctoo were opulent, and two of +them were married to princesses. Science and literature were cultivated, +and manuscripts bore a high price. The king was wealthy, and maintained +an army of 3000 horse, and a large body of infantry. His courtiers shone +resplendent with gold; his palace, and several of the mosques, were +handsome edifices of stone; but his subjects dwelt in oval huts, formed +of stakes, clay, and reeds. + +From this period till the formation of the African Association in 1788, +no certain information was obtained concerning Central Africa. While +British enterprise and courage had made most important discoveries in +every other quarter of the world, the ignorance which prevailed +concerning Africa was felt to be most discreditable. A few +public-spirited individuals, desirous of wiping away this stigma, formed +themselves into an Association, and subscribed the requisite funds for +the purpose of sending out intelligent and courageous travellers upon +this hazardous mission. The management was intrusted to a committee, +consisting of Lord Rawdon, afterwards Marquis of Hastings, Sir Joseph +Banks, the Bishop of Landaff, Mr. Beaufoy, and Mr. Stuart. + +The first individual whom they employed was Mr. Ledyard, the greater part +of whose life had been spent in travelling; he had circumnavigated the +globe along with Captain Cook, and had resided for a number of years +among the American Indians. On his return he presented himself to Sir +Joseph Banks, who was at that time anxiously looking out for a fit person +to be sent out under the auspices of the Association. He immediately saw +that Ledyard was a suitable person for them, and introduced him to Mr +Beaufoy, who was much struck with his resolute and determined appearance. +When Ledyard was asked when he could be ready to depart, he replied, +"to-morrow!" Soon after he sailed for Alexandria, intending to proceed +from Cairo to Sennaar, and thence to traverse the breadth of the +continent. While at Cairo, he sent home some excellent observations +concerning Egypt; and announced that his next communication would be +dated from Sennaar. But tidings of his death soon after reached England. +It appeared that some delays in the starting of the caravan which he was +to have accompanied, working on his impatient and restless spirit, had +brought on a bilious distemper, to check which he had applied improper +remedies at the outset, so that the disorder cut him off in spite of the +assistance of the most skilful physicians in Cairo. + +The next traveller whom the Association engaged was Mr. Lucas. When a boy, +he had been sent to Cadiz, to be educated as a merchant. On his return he +was taken prisoner by a Sallee rover, and remained three years in +captivity at Morocco. He was afterwards appointed vice-consul at Morocco, +and spent there sixteen years, during which he acquired a great knowledge +of the chief African languages. On his return to England, he was made +oriental interpreter to the British court. Upon his expressing a desire +to set out on a journey in furtherance of the objects of the Association, +his Majesty not only granted his request, but also promised to continue +his salary as oriental interpreter during his absence. He set out by +Tripoli, and obtained from the Bey some promise of assistance. He +likewise made an arrangement with two Shereefs, or followers of the +Prophet, whose persons are held sacred, to join a caravan with which they +travelled. He went with them as far as Mesurata; but the Arabs of the +neighbourhood being in a state of revolt, the party could obtain neither +camels nor guides. Mr. Lucas therefore returned to Tripoli without making +further efforts to penetrate into the interior. He, however, obtained +from one of the Shereefs some particulars respecting the countries to the +south of Tripoli, and a memoir from his notes was drawn up by Mr. Beaufoy, +which, though in many respects imperfect and erroneous, nevertheless +threw a little additional light upon the condition of Africa. No correct +information was obtained concerning the Niger. + +Enough of knowledge, however, was possessed to show that the districts +along the Gambia, stretching into the interior, afforded the most direct +method of reaching the Niger, and the countries through which it rolled. +Accordingly this was the route taken by the next adventurer, Major +Houghton, who seemed qualified for the task by the most ardent courage, +and by a considerable acquaintance with the manners both of the Moors and +negroes during his residence as consul at Morocco, and afterwards as +fort-major at Goree. But it would appear that this gallant officer was +strikingly deficient in the prudent and calculating temper which such an +arduous journey demanded. Having set out early in 1791, he speedily +reached Medina, the residence of the king of Wooli, who gave him +information respecting the best route to Timbuctoo, and promised to +furnish him with guides. During his residence Medina was entirely +destroyed by a conflagration, and Major Houghton was forced, along with +the inhabitants, to flee into the fields, carrying with him only a few +such articles as he could hastily snatch up. Thence he journeyed on to +Bambouk, and after crossing the Faleme arrived at Ferbanna, where the +king sent a guide along with him, and likewise furnished him with money +to defray the expenses of the journey. He was imprudent enough to carry +with him a quantity of merchandise, and thereby excited the cupidity off +the natives, with whom he was engaged in constant disputes. After a +complication of difficulties, he took a northern route, intending to +penetrate through Ludamar. The last intelligence received from him was +dated from Simbing, the frontier village of this state, and was merely +comprised in the following brief note, addressed to Dr. Laidley of +Pisania:--"Major Houghton's compliments to Dr. Laidley, is in good +health, on his way to Timbuctoo; robbed of all his goods by Fenda Bucar's +son." Soon after this, rumours of his death reached Pisania; but the +particulars were not known till Mr. Park's return, who brought certain +intelligence. It appeared that at Jarra he had engaged some Moorish +merchants to accompany him. They persuaded him to go to Tisheet, a place +frequented for its salt mines, without informing him that it was much out +of the direct road to Timbuctoo, intending to rob him by the way. In a +few days he suspected their treachery, and resolved to return to Jarra, +but, upon refusing to advance, he was stripped of every article, and then +deserted. He wandered about the desert, alone, and famishing, till, +utterly exhausted, he lay down under a tree and expired. + +The next person who offered his services to the Association was Mungo +Park, who has acquired such celebrity by the important acquisitions which +he made to African Geography. As introductory to the narrative of his +first expedition, we present our readers with a brief sketch of his early +life. + + +PARK'S EARLY LIFE. + +Mungo Park, the celebrated African traveller, was born at Fowlshiels, +near the town of Selkirk, on the 10th September 1771. His father was a +respectable farmer on the Duke of Buccleuch's estate; and his mother, the +daughter of a neighbouring farmer of the name of Hislop, a woman of great +good sense and prudence, who anxiously and faithfully discharged the +duties which she owed to a large family of thirteen children, of whom +Mungo, the subject of this memoir, was the seventh. Park's father died +before his son had won that renown which so honourably distinguishes his +name, though not without the satisfaction of witnessing a fair promise of +his future distinction; but his mother, after hearing with much pride of +her offspring's early achievements, had to lament his untimely fate; +consoled, however, by the recollection of his unblemished character, and +virtuous conduct, and by the thought of the legacy of fame which he had +bequeathed, not to his family alone, but to his country. + +With a solicitude for the education of his children, then by no means +common among the Scottish farmers, Mr. Park hired a tutor to superintend +their education, being anxious not to leave them to such chance +instruction as they might receive before they were of a proper age for +going to school; thus shewing that he was alive to the advantage of early +habits of application and study. The boyhood of Mungo Park was not +distinguished by any marks of peculiar talent, though he appears, when +sent to Selkirk school, to have paid more than an average share of +attention to his studies. Of a thoughtful and reserved disposition, he +seldom took a share in the mirthful sports of his school-fellows. He was +fond of reading and solitude, often wandering for hours among the hills, +and along the banks of his native Yarrow. The legends of border chivalry, +many of which still lingered in the district, had not been poured into an +unwilling ear; they made a strong impression upon his imagination, and +probably contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to fire his spirit, +and excite that love of adventure which so strongly marked his future +life. Moreover, occasional gleams of ambition broke forth from amid his +quiet thoughtfulness, which shewed, that beneath a cold exterior there +lurked a mind of no ordinary cast. This constitutional reserve made him +select in his choice of friends, but with those to whom he granted the +privilege of intimacy, he was all confidence and frankness. + +The limited cost of an education for the Church of Scotland renders it an +object of ambition to many in the middle ranks of life; and the parents +of Mungo Park, judging that his peculiar disposition fitted him for the +ministry, were anxious that he should enter upon the initiatory course of +education. Park, however, manifested a decided repugnance to this choice, +and resolved upon qualifying himself for the medical profession. +Accordingly, at the age of fifteen, he was bound apprentice to Mr. Thomas +Anderson, a respectable surgeon in Selkirk, with whom he remained for the +space of three years, during which, at leisure hours, he continued to +prosecute his classical studies, and also acquired a knowledge of the +elementary principles of mathematics. Mr. Anderson's practice, which was +pretty extensive, enabled him to obtain a considerable acquaintance of +the rudiments of his profession, and formed a suitable preparation for +his academical studies. In the year 1789, he removed to Edinburgh, and +attended the usual course of lectures for three successive sessions. +Though a persevering and attentive student, he does not seem to have +manifested much love for the healing art. Botany was his favourite study, +which he pursued with much ardour during the summer months. And, +fortunately, his brother-in-law, Mr. James Dickson, who published an +elaborate work on the _Cryptogamic_ plants, was well calculated to aid +him in this pursuit. This meritorious individual had in early life +removed to London, and for some time followed the humble occupation of a +working gardener. Having distinguished himself by a diligent and zealous +discharge of the duties of his calling, he attracted the notice of Sir +Joseph Banks, who, ever anxious to reward merit, generously opened to him +his library. Of this privilege Mr. Dickson availed himself so +successfully, that he soon distinguished himself as a botanist, and +enlarged materially the boundaries of the science. But, with rare +prudence, he still carried on his original business as a seeds man, while +he lived on terms of intimacy and friendship with many of the most +distinguished literary characters of his time. + +With Mr. Dickson young Park made a summer ramble through the Highlands, +principally for the sake of adding to his botanical treasures, and, under +under the guidance of his relative, pursued enthusiastically his +favourite science. After Park had completed his medical studies, Mr +Dickson advised him to go to London, in search of professional +employment, in the expectation of advancing his prospects, through the +interest of his scientific acquaintance. Nor was he disappointed in this +hope, for, through Sir Joseph Banks's recommendation, he obtained the +appointment of assistant surgeon to the Worcester East Indiaman. He +sailed in February 1792; and after a voyage to Bencoolen, in the island +of Sumatra, returned to England in the following year. No incident of +importance occurred during this voyage, but Mr. Park made some collections +in botany and natural history, which were submitted to the Linnaean +Society, and an account of them printed in the third volume of their +Transactions. + +It does not appear whether Park had come to any determinate conclusion to +quit the company's service; at all events, he continued to shew a decided +preference for studies in natural history; and the circle of +acquaintances to which Sir Joseph Banks had introduced him after his +return to England, contributed much to strengthen this preference. At +this time, no doubt, he was disposed, upon a suitable opening being +presented, to free himself from the duties of his profession, and enter +upon some more congenial employment. His mind was soon to be directed to +loftier objects--to scenes of stirring interest and varied adventure--to +an enterprise for which he was well qualified by his enthusiastic zeal +for discovery, his scientific acquirements, vigorous constitution, and +patient and persevering disposition. The African Association, consisting +of a number of individuals distinguished by their ardent zeal for the +promotion of geographical discovery in the unknown regions of that vast +continent, had been formed a few years before this period. Their +investigations had brought to light some leading facts relative to +Northern Africa; and with the assistance of Major Rennel, they were +endeavouring to lay down as accurately as possible upon the map, the +principal geographical outlines. But they were most anxious to acquire +correct information concerning the river Joliba, or Niger, and also to +collect some particulars concerning the interior of the country. Under +their auspices several travellers had already gone forth, who had either +fallen victims to the climate, or been murdered by the natives;--and +recent intelligence had been brought to England of the death of Major +Houghton, who had set out with the intention of penetrating to Timbuctoo +and Houssa. Deterred by his fate, no individual for a considerable period +seemed willing to undertake the mission, though liberal offers of +compensation had been made. Here was the very enterprise which possessed +irresistible charms for Park's romantic and daring mind: in him the +Association found an individual well qualified for the task. They were +fully satisfied with the answers which he gave to all their inquiries: +his mind had been already directed towards geographical research; he had +the matured strength of manhood, and his constitution had in some +measure, been inured to a hot climate; his medical knowledge would not +only contribute to the preservation of his own health, but would also +secure him the respect and veneration of the natives. At the commencement +of his narrative, he relates the feelings which animated him in deciding +on this perilous journey. The prospects of personal advantage held out, +even should he prove successful, were so inconsiderable, that in his +acceptance of the offer, he was evidently actuated by an ardent desire of +adding to the slender knowledge possessed of that interesting country, as +well as by the hope of having his name joined to the list of those who +have distinguished themselves by active enterprise. + +A considerable time elapsed ere everything was ready for his departure; +and two years had passed away since his return from India. During that +period, with the exception of a short visit paid to his friends in +Scotland, he had chiefly resided in London; partly engaged with his +favourite studies, and enjoying the pleasures of cultivated society; but +devoting his chief time and attention to acquiring the knowledge, and +superintending the preparations necessary for his journey. At length he +received his final instructions from the Association, and set sail from +Portsmouth, on the 22d of May 1795, on board the Endeavour, an African +trader, bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on the 21st of the +following month. He was furnished with a letter of recommendation to Dr. +Laidley, who resided at the English factory of Pisania, on the Gambia, +and on whom he had a letter of credit for L. 200. + +In the reprint which follows, the reader will find, in Mr. Park's own +words, a full narrative of the various incidents which befel him during +this eventful journey. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: Map of Park's Travels in Africa with the Course of the +Niger.] + + * * * * * + +TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +_The author's motives for undertaking the voyage--his instructions and +departure--arrives at Jillifree, on the Gambia River--proceeds to +Vintain,--Some account of the Feloops.--Proceeds up the river for +Jonkakonda--arrives at Dr. Laidley's.--Some account of Pisania, and the +British factory established at that place.--The Author's employment +during his stay at Pisania--his sickness and recovery--the country +described--prepares to set out for the interior._ + + +Soon after my return from the East Indies, in 1793, having learned that +the noblemen and gentlemen, associated for the purpose of prosecuting +Discoveries in the Interior of Africa, were desirous of engaging a person +to explore that continent by the way of the Gambia River, I took +occasion, through means of the President of the Royal Society, to whom I +had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that service; I had +been informed, that a gentleman of the name of Houghton, a captain in the +army, and formerly fort-major at Goree, had already sailed to the Gambia, +under the direction of the association, and that there was reason to +apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate, or perished in some +contest with the natives; but this intelligence, instead of deterring me +from my purpose, animated me to persist in the offer of my services with +the greater solicitude. I had a passionate desire to examine into the +productions of a country so little known, and to become experimentally +acquainted with the modes of life and character of the natives. I knew +that I was able to bear fatigue, and I relied on my youth, and the +strength of my constitution, to preserve me from the effects of the +climate. The salary which the committee allowed was sufficiently large, +and I made no stipulation for future reward. If I should perish in my +journey, I was willing that my hopes and expectations should perish with +me; and if I should succeed in rendering the geography of Africa more +familiar to my countrymen, and in opening to their ambition and industry +new sources of wealth, and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in +the hands of men of honour, who would not fail to bestow that +remuneration which my successful services should appear to them to merit. +The Committee of the Association, having made such inquiries as they +thought necessary, declared themselves satisfied with the qualifications +that I possessed, and accepted me for the service; and with that +liberality which on all occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave me +every encouragement which it was in their power to grant, or which I +could with propriety ask. + +It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, who was +then recently appointed Consul at Senegambia, and whose countenance in +that capacity it was thought might have served and protected me; but +Government afterwards rescinded his appointment, and I lost that +advantage. The kindness of the Committee, however, supplied all that was +necessary. Being favoured by the Secretary of the Association, the late +Henry Beaufoy, Esq. with a recommendation to Dr. John Laidley, (a +gentleman who had resided many years at an English factory on the banks +of the Gambia,) and furnished with a letter of credit on him for L.200, I +took my passage in the brig Endeavour, a small vessel trading to the +Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, commanded by Captain Richard Wyatt, and I +became impatient for my departure. + +My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on my +arrival in Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way of +Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient: That +I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and termination +of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit the +principal towns, or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly Tombuctoo +and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty to return to +Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other route as, under +all the then existing circumstances of my situation and prospects, should +appear to me to be most advisable." + +We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22d day of May 1795. On the 4th of June +we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa, and on the +21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty days, we +anchored at Jillifree, a town on the northern bank of the river Gambia, +opposite to James' Island, where the English had formerly a small port. + +The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifree is situated, +produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade of +the inhabitants is in salt; which commodity they carry up the river in +canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn, +cotton cloths, elephants' teeth, small quantities of gold dust. The +number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade, make the +King of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other chieftain on +the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him to establish +those exorbitant duties, which traders of all nations are obliged to pay +at entry, amounting to nearly L. 20 on every vessel, great and small. +These duties, or customs, are generally collected in person by the +Alkaid, or governor of Jillifree, and he is attended on these occasions +by a numerous train of dependants, among whom are found many who, by +their frequent intercourse with the English, have acquired a smattering +of our language; but they are commonly very noisy, and very troublesome; +begging for every thing they fancy with such earnestness and importunity, +that traders, in order to get quit of them, are frequently obliged to +grant their requests. + +On the 23d we departed from Jillifree, and proceeded to Vintain, a town +situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of the river. +This is much resorted to by Europeans, on account of the great quantities +of bees-wax which are brought hither--for sale: the wax is collected in +the woods by the Feloops, a wild and unsociable race of people; their +country, which is of considerable extent, abounds in rice; and the +natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia and Cassamansa rivers, +with that article, and also with goats and poultry, on very reasonable +terms. The honey which they collect is chiefly used by themselves in +making a strong intoxicating liquor, much the same as the mead which is +produced from honey in Great Britain. + +In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a factor or +agent, of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, and is +acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes the bargain; +and, with the connivance of the European, receives a certain part only of +the payment, which he gives to his employer as the whole; the remainder +(which is very truly called the cheating money) he receives when the +Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself, as a reward for his trouble. + +The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as their +trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by Mandingoes, the +Europeans have no inducement to learn it. The numerals are as follow: + + One ......... _Enory_. + Two ......... _Sickaba_, or _Cookaba_. + Three ....... _Sisajee_. + Four ........ _Sibakeer_. + Five ........ _Footuck_. + Six ......... _Footuck-Enory_. + Seven ....... _Footuck-Cookaba_. + Eight ....... _Footuck-Sisajee_. + Nine ........ _Footuck-Sibakeer_. + Ten ......... Sibankonyen. + +On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river, +anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the vessel +with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are covered with +impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the adjacent country +appears to be flat and swampy. + +The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent food; +but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At the entrance +from the sea, sharks are found in great abundance; and higher up, +alligators and the hippopotamus (or river-horse) are very numerous. The +latter might with more propriety be called the river-elephant, being of +an enormous and unwieldy bulk, and its teeth furnish good ivory. This +animal is amphibious, with short and thick legs, and cloven hoofs: it +feeds on grass, and such shrubs as the banks of the river afford, boughs +of trees, seldom venturing far from the water, in which it seeks refuge +on hearing the approach of man. I have seen many, and always found them +of a timid and inoffensive disposition. + +In six days after leaving Vintain, we reached Jonkakonda, a place of +considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her lading. +The next morning, the several European traders came from their different +factories to receive their letters and learn the nature and amount of the +cargo; and the captain dispatched a messenger to Dr. Laidley to inform him +of my arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the morning following, when I +delivered him Mr. Beaufoy's letter, and he gave me a kind invitation to +spend my time at his house until an opportunity should offer of +prosecuting my journey. This invitation was too acceptable to be refused, +and being furnished by the Doctor with a horse and guide, I set out from +Jonkakonda at daybreak on the 5th of July, and at eleven o'clock arrived +at Pisania, where I was accommodated with a room and other conveniences +in the Doctor's house. + +Pisania is a small village in the King of Yany's dominions, established +by British subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited solely by them +and their black servants. It is situated on the banks of the Gambia, +sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents, at the time of my +arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley and two gentlemen who were +brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but their domestics were numerous. They +enjoyed perfect security under the king's protection, and being highly +esteemed and respected by the natives at large, wanted no accommodation +or comfort which the country could supply; and the greatest part of the +trade in slaves, ivory, and gold, was in their hands. + +Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to learn +the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use throughout +this part of Africa; and without which I was fully convinced that I never +could acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its inhabitants. +In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley, who, by a long +residence in the country, and constant intercourse with the natives, had +made himself completely master of it. Next to the language, my great +object was to collect information concerning the countries I intended to +visit. On this occasion I was referred to certain traders called Slatees. +These are free black merchants, of great consideration in this part of +Africa, who come down from the interior countries chiefly with enslaved +negroes for sale; but I soon discovered that very little dependance could +be placed on the accounts they gave; for they contradicted each other in +the most important particulars, and all of them seemed extremely +unwilling that I should prosecute my journey. These circumstances +increased my anxiety to ascertain the truth from my own personal +observations. + +In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs of +the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of Europe, and +furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of nature, my time +passed not unpleasantly; and I began to flatter myself that I had escaped +the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans, on their first arrival in +hot climates, are generally subject. But, on the 3d of July, I +imprudently exposed myself to the night dew, in observing an eclipse of +the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of the place; the next +day I found myself attacked with a smart fever and delirium; and such an +illness followed, as confined me to the house during the greatest part of +August. My recovery was very slow; but I embraced every short interval of +convalescence to walk out and make myself acquainted with the productions +of the country. In one of those excursions, having rambled farther than +usual, in a hot day, I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th +of September I was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was not +so violent as before; and in the course of three weeks I was able, when +the weather would permit, to renew my botanical excursions; and when it +rained, I amused myself with drawing plants, in my chamber. The care and +attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate my sufferings; +his company and conversation beguiled the tedious hours during that +gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents; when suffocating heats +oppress by day, and when the night is spent by the terrified traveller in +listening to the croaking of frogs, (of which the numbers are beyond +imagination,) the shrill cry of the jackal, and the deep howling of the +hyaena; a dismal concert, interrupted only by the roar of such tremendous +thunder as no person can form a conception of but those who have heard +it. + +The country itself being an immense level, and very generally covered +with woods, presents a tiresome, and gloomy uniformity to the eye; but +although nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic +landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal hand, the more +important blessings of fertility and abundance. A little attention to +cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn; the fields afford a rich +pasturage for cattle; and the natives are plentifully supplied with +excellent fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek. + +The grains which are chiefly cultivated are Indian corn, (_zea mays;_) +two kinds of _holcus spicatus_, called by the natives _soono_ and +_sanio_; _holcus niger_, and _holcus bicolor_; the former of which they +have named _bassi woolima_, and the latter _bassiqui_. These, together +with rice, are raised in considerable quantities; besides which, the +inhabitants in the vicinity of the towns and villages have gardens which +produce onions, calavances, yams, cassavi, ground-nuts, pompions, gourds, +water melons, and some other esculent plants. + +I observed, likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and indigo. +The former of these articles supplies them with clothing, and with the +latter, they dye their cloth of an excellent blue colour, in a manner +that will hereafter be described. + +In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden mortar +called a _paloon_, in which they bruise the seed until it parts with the +outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the clean corn, by +exposing it to the wind; nearly in the same manner as wheat is cleared +from the chaff in England. The corn, thus freed from the husk, is +returned to the mortar, and beaten into meal; which is dressed variously +in different countries; but the most common preparation of it among the +nations of the Gambia is a sort of pudding, which they call _kouskous_. +It is made by first moistening the flour with water, and then stirring +and shaking it about in a large calabash, or gourd, till it adheres +together in small granules, resembling sago. It is then put into an +earthen pot, whose bottom is perforated with a number of small holes; and +this pot being placed upon another, the two vessels are luted together, +either with a paste of meal and water, or with cow's dung, and placed +upon the fire. In the lower vessel is commonly some animal food and +water, the steam or vapour of which ascends through the perforations in +the bottom of the upper vessel, and softens and prepares the _kouskous_, +which is very much esteemed throughout all the countries that I visited. +I am informed, that the same manner of preparing flour is very generally +used on the Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared is there called +by the same name. It is therefore probable, that the Negroes borrowed the +practice from the Moors. + +For gratifying a taste for variety, another sort of pudding, called +_nealing_, is sometimes prepared from the meal of corn; and they have +also adopted two or three different modes of dressing their rice. Of +vegetable food, therefore, the natives have no want, and although the +common class of people are but sparingly supplied with animal food, yet +this article is not wholly withheld from them. + +Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. Swine are found +in the woods, but their flesh is not esteemed; probably the marked +abhorrence in which this animal is held by the votaries of Mahomet has +spread itself among the Pagans. Poultry of all kinds (the turkey +excepted) is every where to be had. The Guinea fowl and red partridge +abound in the fields; and the woods furnish a small species of antelope, +of which the venison is highly and deservedly prized. + +Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most common are +the hyaena, the panther, and the elephant. Considering the use that is +made of the latter in the East Indies, it may be thought extraordinary, +that the natives of Africa have not, in any part of this immense +continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful and docile +creature, and applying his strength and faculties to the service of man. +When I told some of the natives that this was actually done in the +countries of the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn, and exclaimed, +_Tobaubo fonnio!_ (a white man's lie.) The Negroes frequently find means +to destroy the elephant by fire-arms; they hunt it principally for the +sake of the teeth, which they transfer in barter to those who sell them +again to the Europeans. The flesh they eat, and consider it as a great +delicacy. + +The usual beast of burthen in all the Negro territories is the ass. The +application of animal labour to the purposes of agriculture is no where +adopted; the plough, therefore, is wholly unknown. The chief implement +used in husbandry is the hoe, which varies in form in different +districts; and the labour is universally performed by slaves. + +On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the greatest +height, being fifteen feet above the high-water-mark of the tide; after +which they began to subside; at first slowly, but afterwards very +rapidly; sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four hours; by the +beginning of November the river had sunk to its former level, and the +tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the river had subsided, and the +atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace, and began to think of my +departure; for this is reckoned the most proper season for travelling; +the natives had completed their harvest, and provisions were every where +cheap and plentiful. + +Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at Jonkakonda. I +wrote to him to desire that he would use his interest with the slatees, +or slave-merchants, to procure me the company and protection of the first +_coffle_ (or caravan) that might leave Gambia for the interior country; +and in the meantime I requested him to purchase for me a horse and two +asses. A few days afterwards the Doctor returned to Pisania, and informed +me that a coffle would certainly go for the interior in the course of the +dry season; but that as many of the merchants belonging to it had not yet +completed their assortment of goods, he could not say at what time they +would set out. + +As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people that +composed the caravan, were entirely unknown to me, and as they seemed +rather averse to my purpose, and unwilling to enter into any positive +engagements on my account; and the time of their departure being withal +very uncertain, I resolved, on further deliberation, to avail myself of +the dry season, and proceed without them. + +Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every assistance in +his power, to enable me to prosecute my journey with comfort and safety. + +This resolution having been formed, I made preparations accordingly. And +now, being about to take leave of my hospitable friend, (whose kindness +and solicitude continued to the moment of my departure,[1]) and to quit, +for many months, the countries bordering on the Gambia, it seems proper, +before I proceed with my narrative, that I should, in this place, give +some account of the several Negro nations which inhabit the banks of this +celebrated river, and the commercial intercourse that subsists between +them, and such of the nations of Europe as find their advantage in +trading to this part of Africa. The observations which have occurred to +me on both these subjects will be found in the following chapter. + + [1] Dr. Laidley, to my infinite regret, has since paid the debt of + nature. He left Africa in the latter end of 1797, intending to return + to Great Britain by way of the West Indies; and died soon after his + arrival at Barbadoes. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +_Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and +Mandingoes.--Some account of the trade between the nations of Europe and +the natives of Africa by the way of the Gambia, and between the native +inhabitants of the coast and the nations of the interior countries--their +mode of selling and buying._ + + +The natives of the countries bordering on the Gambia, though distributed +into a great many distinct governments, may, I think, be divided into +four great classes; the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and the +Mandingoes. Among all these nations, the religion of Mahomet has made, +and continues to make, considerable progress; but in most of them, the +body of the people, both free and enslaved, persevere in maintaining the +blind but harmless superstitions of their ancestors, and are called by +the Mahomedans _kafirs_, or infidels. + +Of the Feloops, I have little to add to what has been observed concerning +them in the former chapter. They are of a gloomy disposition, and are +supposed never to forgive an injury. They are even said to transmit their +quarrels as deadly feuds to their posterity; insomuch that a son +considers it as incumbent on him, from a just sense of filial obligation, +to become the avenger of his deceased father's wrongs. If a man loses his +life in one of those sudden quarrels, which perpetually occur at their +feasts, when the whole party is intoxicated with mead, his son, or the +eldest of his sons, (if he has more than one,) endeavours to procure his +father's sandals, which he wears _once a year_, on the anniversary of his +father's death, until a fit opportunity offers of avenging his fate, when +the object of his resentment seldom escapes his pursuit. This fierce and +unrelenting disposition is, however, counterbalanced by many good +qualities; they display the utmost gratitude and affection towards their +benefactors; and the fidelity with which they preserve whatever is +entrusted to them is remarkable. During the present war they have, more +than once, taken up arms to defend our merchant vessels from French +privateers; and English property, of considerable value, has frequently +been left at Vintain, for a long time, entirely under the care of the +Feloops, who have uniformly manifested on such occasions the strictest +honesty and punctuality. How greatly is it to be wished, that the minds +of a people so determined and faithful, could be softened and civilized +by the mild and benevolent spirit of Christianity! + +The Jaloffs (or Yaloffs) are an active, powerful, and warlike race, +inhabiting great part of that tract which lies between the river Senegal +and the Mandingo States on the Gambia; yet they differ from the +Mandingoes, not only in language, but likewise in complexion and +features. The noses of the Jaloffs are not so much depressed, nor the +lips so protuberant, as among the generality of Africans; and although +their skin is of the deepest black, they are considered by the white +traders as the most sightly Negroes in this part of the Continent. + +They are divided into several independent states or kingdoms; which are +frequently at war either with their neighbours, or with each other. In +their manners, superstitions, and government, however, they have a +greater resemblance to the Mandingoes (of whom I shall presently speak) +than to any other nation; but excel them in the manufacture of cotton +cloth, spinning the wool to a finer thread, weaving it in a broader loom, +and dyeing it of a better colour. + +Their language is said to be copious and significant; and is often +learned by Europeans trading to Senegal. I cannot say much of it from my +own knowledge; but have preserved their numerals, which are these: + + One ......... _Wean_. + Two ......... _Yar_. + Three ......... _Yat_. + Four ......... _Yanet_. + Five ......... _Judom_. + Six ......... _Judom Wean_. + Seven ......... _Judom Yar_. + Eight ......... _Judom Yat_. + Nine ......... _Judom Yanet_. + Ten ......... _Fook_. + Eleven ......... _Fook aug Wean_, &c. + +The Foulahs, (or Pholeys,) such of them at least as reside near the +Gambia, are chiefly of a tawny complexion, with soft silky hair, and +pleasing features. They are much attached to a pastoral life, and have +introduced themselves into all the kingdoms on the windward coast as +herdsmen and husbandmen, paying a tribute to the sovereign of the country +for the lands which they hold. Not having many opportunities, however, +during my residence at Pisania, of improving my acquaintance with these +people, I defer entering at large into their character, until a fitter +occasion occurs, which will present itself when I come to Bondou. + +The Mandingoes, of whom it remains to speak, constitute in truth the bulk +of the inhabitants in all those districts of Africa which I visited; and +their language, with a few exceptions, is universally understood and very +generally spoken in that part of the continent. Their numerals are +these:[2] + + One ......... _Killin_. + Two ......... _Foola_. + Three ......... _Sabba_. + Four ......... _Nani_. + Five ......... _Looloo_. + Six ......... _Woro_. + Seven ......... _Oronglo_. + Eight ......... _Sie_. + Nine ......... _Conunta_. + Ten ......... _Tang_. + Eleven ......... _Tan ning killin_, &c. + + [2] In the Travels of Francis Moore the reader will find a pretty + copious vocabulary of the Mandingo language, which in general is + correct. + +They are called Mandingoes, I conceive, as having originally migrated +from the interior state of Manding, of which some account will hereafter +be given; but, contrary to the present constitution of their parent +country, which is republican, it appeared to me that the government in +all the Mandingo states, near the Gambia, is monarchical. The power of +the sovereign is, however, by no means unlimited. In all affairs of +importance, the king calls an assembly of the principal men, or elders, +by whose councils he is directed, and without whose advice he can neither +declare war nor conclude peace. + +In every considerable town there is a chief magistrate, called the +_Alkaid_, whose office is hereditary, and whose business it is to +preserve order, to levy duties on travellers, and to preside at all +conferences in the exercise of local jurisdiction and the administration +of justice. These courts are composed of the elders of the town, (of free +condition,) and are termed _palavers_; and their proceedings are +conducted in the open air with sufficient solemnity. Both sides of a +question are freely canvassed, witnesses are publicly examined, and the +decisions which follow generally meet with the approbation of the +surrounding audience. + +As the Negroes have no written language of their own, the general rule of +decision is an appeal to _ancient custom_; but since the system of +Mahomet has made so great progress among them, the converts to that faith +have gradually introduced, with the religious tenets, many of the civil +institutions of the Prophet; and where the Koran is not found +sufficiently explicit, recourse is had to a commentary called _Al +Sharru_, containing, as I was told, a complete exposition or digest of +the Mahomedan laws, both civil and criminal, properly arranged and +illustrated. + +This frequency of appeal to written laws, with which the Pagan natives +are necessarily unacquainted, has given rise in their palavers to (what I +little expected to find in Africa) professional advocates, or expounders +of the law, who are allowed to appear and to plead for plaintiff or +defendant, much in the same manner as counsel in the law courts of Great +Britain. They are Mahomedan Negroes who have made, or affect to have +made, the laws of the Prophet their peculiar study; and if I may judge +from their harangues, which I frequently attended, I believe that in the +forensic qualifications of procrastination and cavil, and the arts of +confounding and perplexing a cause, they are not always surpassed by the +ablest pleaders in Europe. While I was at Pisania a cause was heard which +furnished the Mahomedan lawyers with an admirable opportunity of +displaying their professional dexterity. The case was this: An ass +belonging to a Serawoolli Negro (a native of an interior country near the +River Senegal) had broke into a field of corn belonging to one of the +Mandingo inhabitants, and destroyed great part of it. The Mandingo having +caught the animal in his field, immediately drew his knife and cut its +throat. The Serawoolli thereupon called a _palaver_ (or in European +terms, _brought an action_) to recover damages for the loss of his beast, +on which he set a high value. The defendant confessed he had killed the +ass, but pleaded a _set-off_, insisting that the loss he had sustained by +the ravage in his corn was equal to the sum demanded for the animal. To +ascertain this fact was the point at issue, and the learned advocates +contrived to puzzle the cause in such a manner, that, after a hearing of +three days, the court broke up without coming to any determination upon +it; and a second palaver was, I suppose, thought necessary. + +The Mandingoes, generally speaking, are of a mild, sociable, and obliging +disposition. The men are commonly above the middle size, well shaped, +strong, and capable of enduring great labour; the women are good-natured, +sprightly, and agreeable. The dress of both sexes is composed of cotton +cloth, of their own manufacture; that of the men is a loose frock, not +unlike a surplice, with drawers which reach half way down the leg; and +they wear sandals on their feet, and white cotton caps on their heads. +The women's dress consists of two pieces of cloth, each of which they +wrap round the waist, which, hanging down to the ancles, answers the +purpose of a petticoat: the other is thrown negligently over the bosom +and shoulders. + +This account of their clothing is indeed nearly applicable to the natives +of all the different countries in this part of Africa; a peculiar +national mode is observable only in the head dresses of the women. + +Thus, in the countries of the Gambia, the females wear a sort of bandage, +which they call _Jalla_. It is a narrow stripe of cotton cloth, wrapped +many times round, immediately over the forehead. In Bondou the head is +encircled with strings of white beads, and a small plate of gold is worn +in the middle of the forehead. In Kasson, the ladies decorate their +heads, in a very tasteful and elegant manner, with white sea-shells. In +Kaarta and Ludamar, the women raise their hair to a great height by the +addition of a pad, (as the ladies did formerly in Great Britain,) which +they decorate with a species of coral, brought from the Red Sea by +pilgrims returning from Mecca, and sold at a great price. + +In the construction of their dwelling-houses, the Mandingoes also conform +to the general practice of the African nations on this part of the +continent, contenting themselves with small and incommodious hovels. A +circular mud wall about four feet high, upon which is placed a conical +roof, composed of the bamboo cane, and thatched with grass, forms alike +the palace of the king, and the hovel of the slave. Their household +furniture is equally simple. A hurdle of canes placed upon upright +stakes, about two feet from the ground, upon which is spread a mat or +bullock's hide, answers the purpose of a bed; a water jar, some earthen +pots for dressing their food, a few wooden bowls and calabashes, and one +or two low stools, compose the rest. + +As every man of free condition has a plurality of wives, it is found +necessary (to prevent, I suppose, matrimonial dispute) that each of the +ladies should be accommodated with a hut to herself; and all the huts +belonging to the same family are surrounded by a fence, constructed of +bamboo canes split and formed into a sort of wicker-work. The whole +inclosure is called a _sirk_ or _surk_. A number of these inclosures, +with narrow passages between them, form what is called a town; but the +huts are generally placed without any regularity, according to the +caprice of the owner. The only rule that seems to be attended to, is +placing the door towards the south-west, in order to admit the sea +breeze. + +In each town is a large stage called the _Bentang_, which answers the +purpose of a public hall or townhouse; it is composed of interwoven +canes, and is generally sheltered from the sun by being erected in the +shade of some large tree. It is here that all public affairs are +transacted and trials conducted; and here the lazy and indolent meet to +smoke their pipes, and hear the news of the day. In most of the towns the +Mahomedans have also a _missura_, or mosque, in which they assemble and +offer up their daily prayers, according to the rules of the Koran. + +In the account which I have thus given of the natives, the reader must +bear in mind, that my observations apply chiefly to persons of _free +condition_, who constitute, I suppose, not more than one-fourth part of +the inhabitants at large; the other three-fourths are in a state of +hopeless and hereditary slavery; and are employed in cultivating the +land, in the care of cattle, and in servile offices of all kinds, much in +the same manner as the slaves in the West Indies. I was told, however, +that the Mandingo master can neither deprive his slave of life, nor sell +him to a stranger, without first calling a palaver on his conduct; or, in +other words, bringing him to a public trial; but this degree of +protection is extended only to the native of domestic slave. Captives +taken in war, and those unfortunate victims who are condemned to slavery +for crimes or insolvency, and, in short, all those unhappy people who are +brought down from the interior countries for sale, have no security +whatever, but may be treated and disposed of in all respects as the owner +thinks proper. It sometimes happens, indeed, when no ships are on the +coast, that a humane and considerate master incorporates his purchased +slaves among his domestics; and their offspring at least, if not the +parents, become entitled to all the privileges of the native class. + +The preceding remarks concerning the several nations that inhabit the +banks of the Gambia, are all that I recollect as necessary to be made in +this place, at the outset of my journey. With regard to the Mandingoes, +however, many particulars are yet to be related; some of which are +necessarily interwoven into the narrative of my progress, and others will +be given in a summary at the end of my work; together with all such +observations as I have collected on the country and climate, which I +could not with propriety insert in the regular detail of occurrences. +What remains of the present chapter will therefore, relate solely to the +trade which the nations of Christendom have found means to establish with +the natives of Africa, by the channel of the Gambia; and the inland +traffic which has arisen in consequence of it between the inhabitants of +the coast and the nations of the interior countries. + +The earliest European establishment on this celebrated river was a +factory of the Portuguese; and to this must be ascribed the introduction +of the numerous words of that language which are still in use among the +Negroes. The Dutch, French, and English, afterwards successively +possessed themselves of settlements on the coast, but the trade of the +Gambia became and continued for many years a sort of monopoly in the +hands of the English. In the travels of Francis Moore is preserved an +account of the Royal African Company's establishments in this river, in +the year 1730: at which time James' Factory alone consisted of a +governor, deputy governor, and two other principal officers; eight +factors, thirteen writers, twenty inferior attendants and tradesmen; a +company of soldiers, and thirty-two Negro servants, besides sloops, +shallops, and boats with their crews; and there were no less than eight +subordinate factories in other parts of the river. + +The trade with Europe, by being afterwards laid open, was almost +annihilated; the share which the subjects of England at this time hold in +it supports not more than two or three annual ships; and I am informed +that the gross value of British exports is under L. .20,000. The French +and Danes still maintain a small share, and the Americans have lately +sent a few vessels to the Gambia by way of experiment. + +The commodities exported to the Gambia from Europe consist chiefly of +fire-arms and ammunition, iron ware, spirituous liquors, tobacco, cotton +caps, a small quantity of broad cloth, and a few articles of the +manufacture of Manchester; a small assortment of India goods, with some +glass beads, amber, and other trifles; for which are taken in exchange +slaves, gold dust, ivory, bees-wax, and hides. Slaves are the chief +article, but the whole number which at this time are annually exported +from the Gambia, by all nations, is supposed to be under one thousand. + +Most of these unfortunate victims are brought to the coast in periodical +caravans; many of them from very remote inland countries; for the +language which they speak is not understood by the inhabitants of the +maritime districts. In a subsequent part of my work I shall give the best +information I have been able to collect concerning the manner in which +they are obtained. On their arrival at the coast, if no immediate +opportunity offers of selling them to advantage, they are distributed +among the neighbouring villages, until a slave ship arrives, or until +they can be sold to black traders, who sometimes purchase on speculation. +In the meanwhile, the poor wretches are kept constantly fettered, two and +two of them being chained together, and employed in the labours of the +field; and I am sorry to add, are very scantily fed, as well as harshly +treated. The price of a slave varies according to the number of +purchasers from Europe and the arrival of caravans from the interior; but +in general I reckon that a young and healthy male, from 16 to 25 years of +age, may be estimated on the spot from L. 18 to L. 20 sterling. + +The Negro slave merchants, as I have observed in the former chapter, are +called _Slatees_; who, besides slaves, and the merchandize which they +bring for sale to the whites, supply the inhabitants of the maritime +districts with native iron, sweet smelling gums and frankincense, and a +commodity called _Shea-toulou_, which, literally translated, signifies +_tree-butter_. This commodity is extracted by means of boiling water from +the kernel of a nut, as will be more particularly described hereafter; it +has the consistence and appearance of butter; and is in truth an +admirable substitute for it. It forms an important article in the food of +the natives, and serves also for every domestic purpose in which oil +would otherwise be used. The demand for it is therefore very great. + +In payment of these articles, the maritime states supply the interior +countries with salt, a scarce and valuable commodity, as I frequently and +painfully experienced in the course of my journey. Considerable +quantities of this article, however, are also supplied to the inland +natives by the Moors; who obtain it from the salt pits in the Great +Desert, and receive in return corn, cotton cloth, and slaves. + +In thus bartering one commodity for another, many inconveniences must +necessarily have arisen at first from the want of coined money, or some +other visible and determinate medium, to settle the balance, or +difference of value, between different articles, to remedy which, the +natives of the interior make use of small shells called _kowries_, as +will be shown hereafter. On the coast, the inhabitants have adopted a +practice which, I believe, is peculiar to themselves. + +In their early intercourse with Europeans, the article that attracted +most notice was iron. Its utility, in forming the instruments of war and +husbandry, made it preferable to all others; and iron soon became the +measure by which the value of all other commodities was ascertained. Thus +a certain quantity of goods, of whatever denomination, appearing to be +equal to a bar of iron, constituted, in the trader's phraseology, a bar +of that particular merchandize. Twenty leaves of tobacco, for instance, +were considered as a _bar_ of tobacco; and a gallon of spirits (or rather +half spirits and half water) as a _bar_ of rum; a bar of one commodity +being reckoned equal in value to a bar of another commodity. + +As, however, it must unavoidably happen, that according to the plenty or +scarcity of goods at market, in proportion to the demand, the relative +value would be subject to continual fluctuation, greater precision has +been found necessary; and at this time the current value of a single bar +of any kind is fixed by the whites at two shillings sterling. Thus a +slave, whose price is L. 15, is said to be worth 150 bars. + +In transactions of this nature, it is obvious that the white trader has +infinitely the advantage over the African, whom, therefore, it is +difficult to satisfy; for, conscious of his own ignorance, he naturally +becomes exceedingly suspicious and wavering; and, indeed, so very +unsettled and jealous are the Negroes in their dealings with the whites, +that a bargain is never considered by the European as concluded until the +purchase money is paid, and the party has taken leave. + +Having now brought together such general observations on the country and +its inhabitants, as occurred to me during my residence in the vicinage of +the Gambia, I shall detain the reader no longer with introductory matter, +but proceed, in the next chapter, to a regular detail of the incidents +which happened, and the reflections which arose in my mind, in the course +of my painful and perilous journey, from its commencement until my return +to the Gambia. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +_The Author sets out from Pisania--his attendants--reaches Jindy.--Story +related by a Mandingo Negro.--Proceeds to Medina, the capital of +Woolli.--Interview with the king--Saphies or charms.--Proceeds to +Kolor.--Description of Mumbo Jumbo--arrives at Koojar--wrestling +match--crosses the wilderness, and arrives at Tallika, in the Kingdom of +Bondou._ + + +On the 2d of December 1795, I took my departure from the hospitable +mansion of Dr. Laidley. I was fortunately provided with a Negro servant, +who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues. His name was _Johnson_. +He was a native of this part of Africa; and having in his youth been +convoyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had been made free, and taken to +England by his master, where he had resided many years; and at length +found his way back to his native country. As he was known to Dr. Laidley, +the Doctor recommended him to me, and I hired him as my interpreter, at +the rate of ten bars monthly, to be paid to himself, and five bars a +month to be paid to his wife during his absence. Dr. Laidley furthermore +provided me with a Negro boy of his own, named Demba; a sprightly youth, +who, besides Mandingo, spoke the language of the Serawoollies, an inland +people (of whom mention will hereafter be made) residing on the banks of +the Senegal; and to induce him to behave well, the Doctor promised him +his freedom on his return, in case I should report favourably of his +fidelity and services. I was furnished with a horse for myself, (a small, +but very hardy and spirited beast, which cost me to the value of L.7, +10s.,) and two asses for my interpreter and servant. My baggage was +light, consisting chiefly of provisions for two days; a small assortment +of beads, amber, and tobacco, for the purchase of a fresh supply, as I +proceeded; a few changes of linen and other necessary apparel, an +umbrella, a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, and a thermometer; +together with two fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other +small articles. + +A freeman (a Bushreen or Mahomedan) named Madiboo, who was travelling to +the kingdom of Bambarra, and, two Slatees, or slave-merchants, of the +Serawoolli nation, and of the same sect, who were going to Bondou, +offered their services as far as they intended respectively to proceed; +as did likewise a Negro named Tami, (also a Mahomedan,) a native of +Kasson, who had been employed some years by Dr. Laidley as a blacksmith, +and was returning to his native country with the savings of his labours. +All these men travelled on foot, driving their asses before them. Thus I +had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been taught to regard me +with great respect, and to consider that their safe return hereafter, to +the countries on the Gambia, would depend on my preservation. + +Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs Ainsley, with a number of their domestics, +kindly determined to accompany me the two first days; and I believe they +secretly thought they should never see me afterwards. + +We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli creek, a branch +of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black woman, who had formerly +been the _chere amie_ of a white trader named Hewett; and who, in +consequence thereof, was called, by way of distinction, _Seniora_. In the +evening we walked out to see an adjoining village, belonging to a Slatee +named Jemafoo Mamadoo, the richest of all the Gambia traders. We found +him at home; and he thought so highly of the honour done him by this +visit, that he presented us with a fine bullock, which was immediately +killed, and part of it dressed for our evening's repast. The Negroes do +not go to supper till late, and in order to amuse ourselves while our +beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to relate some diverting +stories; in listening to which, and smoking tobacco, we spent three +hours. These stories bear some resemblance to those in the Arabian Nights +Entertainments; but, in general, are of a more ludicrous cast. I shall +here abridge one of them for the reader's amusement. "Many years ago, +(said the relator,) the people of Doomasansa (a town on the Gambia) were +much annoyed by a lion, that came every night, and took away some of +their cattle. By continuing his depredations, the people were at length +so much enraged, that a party of them resolved to go and hunt the +monster. They accordingly proceeded in search of the common enemy, which +they found concealed in a thicket; and immediately firing at him, were +lucky enough to wound him in such a manner, that, in springing from the +thicket towards the people, he fell down among the grass, and was unable +to rise. The animal, however, manifested such appearance of vigour, that +nobody cared to approach him singly; and a consultation was held, +concerning the properest means of taking him alive; a circumstance, it +was said, which, while it furnished undeniable proof of their prowess, +would turn out to great advantage, it being resolved to convey him to the +coast, and sell him to the Europeans. While some persons proposed one +plan, and some another, an old man offered a scheme. This was, to strip +the roof of a house of its thatch, and to carry the bamboo frame, (the +pieces of which are well secured together by thongs,) and throw it over +the lion. If, in approaching him, he should attempt to spring upon them, +they had nothing to do but to let down the roof upon themselves, and fire +at the lion through the rafters. + +"This proposition was approved and adopted. The thatch was taken from the +roof of a hut, and the lion hunters, supporting the fabric, marched +courageously to the field of battle; each person carrying a gun in one +hand, and bearing his share of the roof on the opposite shoulder. In this +manner they approached the enemy; but the beast had by this time +recovered his strength; and such was the fierceness of his countenance, +that the hunters, instead of proceeding any further, thought it prudent +to provide for their own safety, by covering themselves with the roof. +Unfortunately, the lion was too nimble for them; for, making a spring +while the roof was setting down, both the beast and his pursuers were +caught in the same cage, and the lion devoured them at his leisure, to +the great astonishment and mortification of the people of Doomasansa; at +which place it is dangerous even at this day to tell the story; for it is +become the subject of laughter and derision in the neighbouring +countries, and nothing will enrage an inhabitant of that town so much as +desiring him to catch a lion alive." + +About one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d of December, I took my leave +of Dr. Laidley and Messrs Ainsley, and rode slowly into the woods. I had +now before me a boundless forest, and a country, the inhabitants of which +were strangers to civilized life, and to most of whom a white man was the +object of curiosity or plunder. I reflected that I had parted from the +last European I might probably behold, and perhaps quitted for ever the +comforts of Christian society. Thoughts like these would necessarily cast +a gloom over the mind, and I rode musing along for about three miles, +when I was awakened from my reverie by a body of people, who came running +up and stopped the asses, giving me to understand that I must go with +them to Peckaba, to present myself to the King of Walli, or pay customs +to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the object of my +journey not being traffic. I ought not to be subjected to a tax like the +Slatees, and other merchants who travel for gain; but I reasoned to no +purpose. They said it was usual for travellers of all descriptions to +make a present to the King of Walli, and without doing so I could not be +permitted to proceed. As they were more numerous than my attendants, and +withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to comply with their demand, and +having presented them with four bars of tobacco, for the king's use, I +was permitted to continue my journey, and at sunset reached a village +near Kootacunda, where we rested for the night. + +In the morning of December 4th, I passed Kootacunda, the last town of +Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining village to pay +customs to an officer of the King of Woolli; we rested the ensuing night +at a village called Tabajang; and at noon the next day, (December 5th,) +we reached Medina, the capital of the King of Woolli's dominions. + +The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia on +the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, by Bondou on the +north-east, and on the east by the Simbani wilderness. + +The country every where rises into gentle acclivities, which are +generally covered with extensive woods, and the towns are situated in the +intermediate valleys. Each town is surrounded by a tract of cultivated +land, the produce of which, I presume, is found sufficient to supply the +wants of the inhabitants; for the soil appeared to me to be every where +fertile, except near the tops of the ridges, where the red iron stone and +stunted shrubs sufficiently marked the boundaries between fertility and +barrenness. The chief productions are cotton, tobacco, and esculent +vegetables; all which are raised in the valleys, the rising grounds being +appropriated to different sorts of corn. + +The inhabitants are Mandingoes; and, like most of the Mandingo nations, +are divided into two great sects, the Mahomedans, who are called +_Bushreens_, and the Pagans, who are called indiscriminately _Kafirs_, +(unbelievers,) and _Sonakies_, (_i. e._ men who drink strong liquors.) +The Pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the government of the +country is in their hands; for though the most respectable among the +Bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs of importance, yet they are +never permitted to take any share in the executive government, which +rests solely in the hands of the _Mansa_, or sovereign, and great +officers of the state. Of these, the first in point of rank is the +presumptive heir of the crown, who is called the _Farbanna_; next to him +are the _Alkaids_, or provincial governors, who are more frequently +called _Keamos_. Then follow the two grand divisions of freemen and +slaves:[3] of the former, the Slatees, so frequently mentioned in the +preceding pages, are considered as the principal; but in all classes +great respect is paid to the authority of aged men. On the death of the +reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he has attained the age of manhood) +succeeds to the regal authority. If there is no son, or if the son is +under the age of discretion, a meeting of the great men is held, and the +late monarch's nearest relation (commonly his brother) is called to the +government, not as regent, or guardian to the infant son, but in full +right, and to the exclusion of the minor. The charges of the government +are defrayed by occasional tributes from the people, and by duties on +goods transported across the country. Travellers, on going from the +Gambia towards the interior, pay customs in European merchandize. On +returning they pay in iron and _shea-toulou_: these taxes are paid at +every town. + + [3] The term which signifies a man of free condition is _Horia_; that + of a slave, _Jong_. + +Medina,[4] the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now arrived, is a +place of considerable extent; and may contain from eight hundred to one +thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner, by a +surrounding high wall built of clay, and an outward fence of pointed +stakes and prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected, and the outward +fence has suffered considerably from the active hands of busy housewives, +who pluck up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a lodging at one of the +king's near relations, who apprized me, that at my introduction to the +king, I must not presume _to shake hands with him_. It was not usual, he +said, to allow this liberty to strangers. Thus instructed, I went in the +afternoon to pay my respects to the sovereign; and ask permission to pass +through his territories to Bondou. The king's name was _Jatta_. He was +the same venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was +transmitted by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat before the +door of his hut: a number of men and women were arranged on each side, +who were singing and clapping their hands. I saluted him respectfully, +and informed him of the purport of my visit. The king graciously replied, +that he not only gave me leave to pass through his country, but would +offer up his prayers for my safety. On this, one of my attendants, +seemingly in return for the king's condescension, began to sing, or +rather to roar, an Arabic song; at every pause of which, the king +himself, and all the people present, struck their hands against their +forehead, and exclaimed, with devout and affecting solemnity, _Amen! +Amen!_[5] The king told me furthermore, that I should have a guide the +day following, who would conduct me safely to the frontier of his +kingdom. I then took my leave, and in the evening sent the king an order +upon Dr. Laidley for three gallons of rum, and received in return great +store of provisions. + + [4] Medina in the Arabic signifies a city. The name is not uncommon + among the Negroes, and has probably been burrowed from the + Mohamedans. + + [5] It may seem from hence that the king was a Mahomedan; but I was + assured to the contrary. He joined in prayer on this occasion + probably from the mere dictates of his benevolent mind, considering + perhaps that prayers to the Almighty, offered up with true devotion + and sincerity, were equally acceptable, whether from Bushreen or + Pagan. + +December 6th, early in the morning, I went to the king a second time, to +learn if the guide was ready. I found his majesty sitting upon a +bullock's hide, warming himself before a large fire; for the Africans are +sensible of the smallest variation in the temperature of the air, and +frequently complain of cold when a European is oppressed with heat. He +received me with a benevolent countenance, and tenderly entreated me to +desist from my purpose of travelling into the interior; telling me that +Major Houghton had been killed in his route, and that if I followed his +footsteps, I should probably meet with his fate. He said that I must not +judge of the people of the eastern country by those of Woolli: that the +latter were acquainted with white men, and respected them; whereas the +people of the east had never seen a white man, and would certainly +destroy me. I thanked the king for his affectionate solicitude, but told +him that I had considered the matter, and was determined, notwithstanding +all dangers, to proceed. The king shook his head, but desisted from +further persuasion; and told me the guide should be ready in the +afternoon. + +About two o'clock, the guide appearing, I went and took my last farewell +of the good old king, and in three hours reached Konjour, a small +village, where we determined to rest for the night. Here I purchased a +fine sheep for some beads, and my Serawoolli attendants killed it with +all the ceremonies prescribed by their religion: part of it was dressed +for supper: after which a dispute arose between one of the Serawoolli +Negroes and Johnson, my interpreter, about the sheep's horns. The former +claimed the horns as his perquisite, for having acted the part of our +butcher, and Johnson contested the claim. I settled the matter by giving +a horn to each of them. This trifling incident is mentioned as +introductory to what follows; for it appeared on inquiry that these horns +were highly valued, as being easily convertible into portable sheaths, or +cases, for containing and keeping secure certain charms or amulets called +_saphies_, which the Negroes constantly wear about them. These saphies +are prayers, or rather sentences, from the Koran, which the Mahomedan +priests write on scraps of paper, and sell to the simple natives, who +consider them to possess very extraordinary virtues. Some of the Negroes +wear them to guard themselves against the bite of snakes or alligators; +and on this occasion the saphie is commonly enclosed in a snake's or +alligator's skin, and tied round the ancle. Others have recourse to them +in time of war, to protect their persons against hostile weapons; but the +common use to which these amulets are applied is to prevent or cure +bodily diseases; to preserve from hunger and thirst; and generally to +conciliate the favour of superior powers under all the circumstances and +occurrences of life.[6] + + [6] I believe that similar charms or amulets, under the names of + _domini, grigri, fetich_ &c. &c. are common in all parts of Africa. + +In this case it is impossible not to admire the wonderful contagion of +superstition; for, notwithstanding that the majority of the Negroes are +Pagans, and absolutely reject the doctrines of Mahomet. I did not meet +with a man, whether a Bushreen or Kafir, who was not fully persuaded of +the powerful efficacy of these amulets. The truth is, that all the +natives of this part of Africa consider the art of writing as bordering +on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the prophet, but in the arts +of the magician, that their confidence is placed. It will hereafter be +seen that I was myself lucky enough, in circumstances of distress, to +turn the popular credulity in this respect to good account. + +On the 7th I departed from Konjour, and slept at a village called Malla, +(or Mallaing;) and on the 8th about noon I arrived at Kolor, a +considerable town; near the entrance into which I observed, hanging upon +a tree, a sort of masquerade habit, made of the bark of trees, which I +was told on inquiry belonged to MUMBO JUMBO. This is a strange bugbear, +common to all the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the Pagan natives +in keeping their women in subjection; for as the Kafirs are not +restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as many as he +can conveniently maintain; and as it frequently happens that the ladies +disagree among themselves, family quarrels sometimes rise to such a +height, that the authority of the husband can no longer preserve peace in +his household. In such cases, the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called +in, and is always decisive. + +This strange minister of justice, (who is supposed to be either the +husband himself, or some person instructed by him,) disguised in the +dress that has been mentioned, and armed with the rod of public +authority, announces his coming (whenever his services are required) by +loud and dismal screams in the woods near the town. He begins the +pantomime at the approach of night; and as soon as it is dark he enters +the town, and proceeds to the Bentang, at which all the inhabitants +immediately assemble. + +It may easily be supposed that this exhibition is not much relished by +the women; for, as the person in disguise is entirely unknown to them, +every married female suspects that the visit may possibly be intended for +herself; but they dare not refuse to appear when they are summoned; and +the ceremony commences with songs and dances, which continue till +midnight, about which time Mumbo fixes on the offender. This unfortunate +victim being thereupon immediately seized, is stripped naked, tied to a +post, and severely scourged, with Mumbo's rod, amidst the shouts and +derision of the whole assembly; and it is remarkable, that the rest of +the women are the loudest in their exclamations on this occasion against +their unhappy sister. Daylight puts an end to this indecent and unmanly +revel. + +December 9th. As there was no water to be procured on the road, we +travelled with great expedition until we reached Tambacunda; and +departing from thence early the next morning, the 10th, we reached in the +evening Kooniakary, a town of nearly the same magnitude as Kolor. About +noon on the 11th we arrived at Koojar, the frontier town of Woolli, +towards Bondou, from which it is separated by an intervening wilderness +of two days' journey. + +The guide appointed by the King of Woolli being now to return, I +presented him with some amber for his trouble; and having been informed +that it was not possible at all times to procure water in the wilderness, +I made inquiry for men who would serve both as guides and water-bearers +during my journey across it. Three Negroes, elephant-hunters, offered +their services for these purposes, which I accepted, and paid them three +bars each in advance, and the day being far spent, I determined to pass +the night in my present quarters. + +The inhabitants of Koojar, though not wholly unaccustomed to the sight of +Europeans, (most of them having occasionally visited the countries on the +Gambia,) beheld me with a mixture of curiosity and reverence, and in the +evening invited me to see a _neobering_, or wrestling match at the +Bentang. This is an exhibition very common in all the Mandingo countries. +The spectators arranged themselves in a circle, leaving the intermediate +space for the wrestlers, who were strong active young men, full of +emulation, and accustomed, I suppose, from their infancy to this sort of +exertion. Being stripped of their clothing, except a short pair of +drawers, and having their skin anointed with oil, or _shea_ butter, the +combatants approached each other on all-fours, parrying with, and +occasionally extending a hand for some time, till at length one of them +sprang forward, and caught his rival by the knee. Great dexterity and +judgment were now displayed; but the contest was decided by superior +strength; and I think that few Europeans would have been able to cope +with the conqueror. It must not be unobserved, that the combatants were +animated by the music of a drum, by which their actions were in some +measure regulated. + +The wrestling was succeeded by a dance, in which many performers +assisted, all of whom were provided with little bells, which were +fastened to their legs and arms; and here too the drum regulated their +motions. It was beaten with a crooked stick, which the drummer held in +his right hand, occasionally using his left to deaden the sound, and thus +vary the music. The drum is likewise applied on these occasions to keep +order among the spectators, by imitating the sound of certain Mandingo +sentences: for example, when the wrestling match is about to begin, the +drummer strikes what is understood to signify _ali bae see_,--sit all +down; upon which the spectators immediately seat themselves; and when the +combatants are to begin, he strikes _amuta amuta_,--take hold, take hold. + +In the course of the evening I was presented, by way of refreshment, with +a liquor which tasted so much like the strong beer of my native country, +(and very good beer too,) as to induce me to inquire into its +composition; and I learned, with some degree of surprise, that it was +actually made from corn which had been previously malted, much in the +same manner as barley is malted in Great Britain: a root yielding a +grateful bitter was used in lieu of hops, the name of which I have +forgot; but the corn which yields the wort is the _holcus spicatus_ of +botanists. + +Early in the morning, (the 12th,) I found that one of the +elephant-hunters had absconded with the money he had received from me in +part of wages; and in order to prevent the other two from following his +example, I made them instantly fill their calabashes (or gourds) with +water, and as the sun rose I entered the wilderness that separates the +kingdoms of Woolli and Bondou. + +We had not travelled more than a mile before my attendants insisted on +stopping that they might prepare a saphie, or charm, to ensure us a safe +journey. This was done by muttering a few sentences, and spitting upon a +stone, which was thrown before us on the road. The same ceremony was +repeated three times, after which the Negroes proceeded with the greatest +confidence; every one being firmly persuaded that the stone (like the +scape-goat) had carried with it every thing that could induce superior +powers to visit us with misfortune. + +We continued our journey without stopping any more until noon, when we +came to a large tree, called by the natives Neema Tula. It had a very +singular appearance, being decorated with innumerable rags or scraps of +cloth, which persons travelling across the wilderness had, at different +times, tied to the branches; probably, at first, to inform the traveller +that water was to be found near it; but the custom has become so +sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to pass without hanging up +something. I followed the example, and suspended a handsome piece of +cloth on one of the boughs; and being told that either a well or pool of +water was at no great distance, I ordered the Negroes to unload the asses +that we might give them corn, and regale ourselves with the provisions we +had brought. In the meantime, I sent one of the elephant-hunters to look +for the well, intending, if water was to be obtained, to rest here for +the night. A pool was found, but the water was thick and muddy, and the +Negro discovered near it the remains of a fire recently extinguished, and +the fragments of provisions, which afforded a proof that it had been +lately visited, either by travellers or banditti. The fears of my +attendants supposed the latter; and believing that robbers lurked near +us, I was persuaded to change my resolution of resting here all night, +and proceed to another watering place, which I was assured we might reach +early in the evening. + +We departed accordingly, but it was eight o'clock at night before we came +to the watering place; and being now sufficiently fatigued with so long a +day's journey, we kindled a large fire, and lay down, surrounded by our +cattle, on the bare ground, more than a gun-shot from any bush; the +Negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns to prevent surprise. + +I know not indeed that any danger was justly to be dreaded, but the +Negroes were unaccountably apprehensive of banditti during the whole of +the journey. As soon, therefore, as day light appeared, we filled our +_soofroos_ (skins) and calabashes at the pool, and set out for Tallika, +the first town in Bondou, which we reached about eleven o'clock in the +forenoon, (the 13th of December.) I cannot, however, take leave of +Woolli, without observing that I was every where well received by the +natives; and that the fatigues of the day were generally alleviated by a +hearty welcome at night; and although the African mode of living was at +first unpleasant to me, yet I found, at length, that custom surmounted +trifling inconveniences, and made every thing palatable and easy. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +_Some account of the inhabitants of Tallika.--The Author proceeds for +Fatteconda--incidents on the road.--Crosses the Neriko, arrives at +Koorkarany--reaches the River Faleme--Fishery on that river--proceeds +along its bank to Naye or Nayemow--crosses the Faleme, and arrives at +Fatteconda.--Has an interview with Almami, the Sovereign of +Bondou.--Description of the King's dwelling--has a second interview with +the King, who begs the Author's Coat--Author visits the King's wives--is +permitted to depart on friendly, terms.--Journey by night--arrives at +Joag.--Some account of Bondou and its inhabitants, the Foulahs._ + + +Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited chiefly +by Foulahs of the Mahomedan religion, who live in considerable affluence, +partly by furnishing provisions to the _coffles_, or caravans, that pass +through the town, and partly by the sale of ivory, obtained by hunting +elephants; in which employment the young men are generally very +successful. Here, an officer belonging to the King of Bondou constantly +resides, whose business it is to give timely information of the arrival +of the caravans; which are taxed according to the number of loaded asses +that arrive at Tallika. + +I took up my residence at this officer's house, and agreed with him to +accompany me to Fatteconda, the residence of the king, for which he was +to receive five bars; and before my departure I wrote a few lines to Dr +Laidley, and gave my letter to the master of a caravan bound for the +Gambia. This caravan consisted of nine or ten people with five asses +loaded with ivory. The large teeth are conveyed in nets, two on each side +of the ass; the small ones are wrapped up in skins, and secured with +ropes. + +December 14th. We left Tallika, and rode on very peaceably for +about two miles, when a violent quarrel arose between two of my +fellow-travellers,--one of whom was the blacksmith,--in the course of +which they bestowed some opprobrious terms upon each other; and it is +worthy of remark, that an African will sooner forgive a blow than a term +of reproach applied to his ancestors: "Strike me, but do not curse my +mother," is a common expression even among the slaves. This sort of +abuse, therefore, so enraged one of the disputants, that he drew his +cutlass upon the blacksmith, and would certainly have ended the dispute +in a very serious manner, if the others had not laid hold of him, and +wrested the cutlass from him. I was obliged to interfere, and put an end +to this disagreeable business, by desiring the blacksmith to be silent, +and telling the other who I thought was in the wrong, that if he +attempted in future to draw his cutlass, or molest any of my attendants, +I should look upon him as a robber, and shoot him without further +ceremony. This threat had the desired effect, and we marched sullenly +along till the afternoon, when we arrived at a number of small villages +scattered over an open and fertile plain: At one of these, called Ganado, +we took up our residence for the night; here an exchange of presents and +a good supper terminated all animosities among my attendants; and the +night was far advanced before any of us thought of going to sleep. We +were amused by an itinerant _singing man_,[7] who told a number of +diverting stories, and played some sweet airs, by blowing his breath upon +a bowstring, and striking it at the same time with a stick. + + [7] These are a sort of travelling bards and musicians, who sing + extempore songs in praise of those who employ them. A fuller + account of them will be given hereafter. + +December 15th. At daybreak my fellow-travellers, the Serawoollies, took +leave of me, with many prayers for my safety. About a mile from Ganado, +we crossed a considerable branch of the Gambia called Neriko. The banks +were steep, and covered with _mimosas_; and I observed in the mud a +number of large muscles, but the natives do not eat them. About noon, the +sun being exceedingly hot, we rested two hours in the shade of a tree, +and purchased some milk and pounded corn from some Foulah herdsmen, and +at sunset reached a town called Koorkarany, where the blacksmith had some +relations; and here we rested two days. + +Koorkarany is a Mahomedan town, surrounded by a high wall, and is +provided with a mosque. Here I was shown a number of Arabic manuscripts, +particularly a copy of the book before mentioned, called _Al Shara_. The +_Maraboo_ or priest, in whose possession it was, read and explained to me +in Mandingo, many of the most remarkable passages; and in return I showed +him Richardson's Arabic grammar which he very much admired. On the +evening of the second day (Dec. 17th) we departed from Koorkarany. We +were joined by a young man who was travelling to Fatteconda for salt; and +as night set in we reached Dooggi, a small village about three miles from +Koorkarany. + +Provisions were here so cheap that I purchased a bullock for six small +stones of amber; for I found my company increase or diminish according to +the good fare they met with. + +Dec. 18th. Early in the morning we departed from Dooggi, and being joined +by a number of Foulahs and other people, made a formidable appearance; +and were under no apprehension of being plundered in the woods. About +eleven o'clock one of the asses proving very refractory, the Negroes took +a curious method to make him tractable. They cut a forked stick, and +putting the forked part into the ass's mouth, like the bit of a bridle, +tied the two smaller parts together above his head, leaving the lower +part of the stick of sufficient length to strike against the ground if +the ass should attempt to put his head down. After this, the ass walked +along quietly, and gravely enough, taking care, after some practice, to +hold his head sufficiently high to prevent the stones or roots of trees +from striking against the end of the stick, which experience had taught +him would give a severe shock to his teeth. This contrivance produced a +ludicrous appearance, but my fellow-travellers told me it was constantly +adopted by the Slatees, and always proved effectual. + +In the evening we arrived at a few scattered villages, surrounded with +extensive cultivation; a tone of which, called Buggil, we passed the +night in a miserable hut, having no other bed than a bundle of corn +stalks, and no provisions but what we brought with us. The wells here are +dug with great ingenuity, and are very deep. I measured one of the +bucket-ropes, and found the depth of the well to be 28 fathoms. + +Dec. 19th. We departed from Buggil, and travelled along a dry, stony +height, covered with _mimosas_ till mid-day; when the land sloped towards +the east, and we descended into a deep valley, in which I observed +abundance of whin stone and white quartz. Pursuing our course to the +eastward, along this valley, in the bed of an exhausted river course, we +came to a large village, where we intended to lodge. We found many of the +natives dressed in a thin French gauze, which they call _Byqui_; this +being a light airy dress, and well calculated to display the shape of +their persons, is much esteemed by the ladies. The manners of these +females, however, did not correspond with their dress; for they were rude +and troublesome in the highest degree; they surrounded me in numbers, +begging for amber, beads, &c.; and were so vehement in their +solicitations, that I found it impossible to resist them. They tore my +cloak, cut the buttons from my boy's clothes, and were proceeding to +other outrages, when I mounted my horse and rode off, followed for half a +mile by a body of these harpies. + +In the evening we reached Soobrudooka, and as my company was numerous, +(being fourteen,) I purchased a sheep, and abundance of corn for supper +after which we lay down by the bundles, and passed an uncomfortable night +in a heavy dew. + +Dec. 20th. We departed from Soobrudooka, and at two o'clock reached a +large village situated on the banks of the Faleme River, which is here +rapid and rocky. The natives were employed in fishing in various ways. +The large fish were taken in long baskets made of split cane, and placed +in a strong current which was created by walls of stone built across the +stream, certain open places being left, through which the water rushed +with great force. Some of these baskets were more than 20 feet long, and +when once the fish had entered one of them, the force of the stream +prevented it from returning. The small fish were taken in great numbers +in hand-nets, which the natives weave of cotton, and use with great +dexterity. The fish last mentioned are about the size of sprats, and are +prepared for sale in different ways; the most common is by pounding them +entire as they come from the stream in a wooden mortar, and exposing them +to dry in the sun, in large lumps like sugar loaves. It may be supposed +that the smell is not very agreeable; but in the Moorish countries to the +north of the Senegal, where fish is scarcely known, this preparation is +esteemed as a luxury, and sold to considerable advantage. The manner of +using it by the natives is, by dissolving a piece of this blackloaf in +boiling water, and mixing it with their kouskous. + +I thought it very singular at this season of the year, to find the banks +of the Faleme every where covered with large and beautiful fields of +corn, but on examination I found it was not the same species of grain as +is commonly cultivated on the Gambia; it is called by the natives Mania, +and grows in the dry season; is very prolific, and is reaped in the month +of January. It is the same which, from the depending position of the ear, +is called by botanical writers _holcus cernuus_. + +On returning to the village, after an excursion to the river side, to +inspect the fishery, an old Moorish shereeff came to bestow his blessing +upon me, and beg some paper to write saphies upon. This man had seen +Major Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta, and told me that he died in the +country of the Moors. I gave him a few sheets of paper, and he levied a +similar tribute from the blacksmith; for it is customary for young +Mussulmen to make presents to the old ones, in order to obtain their +blessing, which is pronounced in Arabic, and received with great +humility. + +About three in the afternoon we continued our course along the bank of +the river, to the northward, till eight o clock, when we reached Nayemow; +here the hospitable master of the town received us kindly, and presented +us with a bullock. In return, I gave him some amber and beads. + +Dec. 21st. In the morning, having agreed for a canoe to carry over my +bundles, I crossed the river, which came up to my knees as I sat on my +horse; but the water is so clear, that from the high bank the bottom is +visible all the way over. + +About noon we entered Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou; and in a little +time received an invitation to the house of a respectable Slatee: for, as +there are no public houses in Africa, it is customary for strangers to +stand at the Bentang, or some other place of public resort, till they are +invited to a lodging by some of the inhabitants. We accepted the offer; +and in an hour afterwards, a person came and told me that he was sent on +purpose to conduct me to the king, who was very desirous of seeing me +immediately, if I was not too much fatigued. + +I took my interpreter with me, and followed the messenger till we got +quite out of the town, and crossed some corn fields; when, suspecting +some trick, I stopped, and asked the guide whither he was going. Upon +which he pointed to a man sitting under a tree at some little distance; +and told me that the king frequently gave audiences in that retired +manner, in order to avoid a crowd of people; and that nobody but myself +and my interpreter must approach him. When I advanced, the king desired +me to come and sit by him upon the mat; and after hearing my story, on +which he made no observation, he asked if I wished to purchase any slaves +or gold: being answered in the negative, he seemed rather surprised; but +desired me to come to him in the evening, and he would give me some +provisions. + +This monarch was called Almami; a Moorish name, though I was told that he +was not a Mahomedan, but a Kafir, or Pagan. I had heard that he had acted +towards Major Houghton with great unkindness, and caused him to be +plundered. His behaviour, therefore, towards myself at this interview, +though much more civil than I expected, was far from freeing me from +uneasiness. I still apprehended some double dealing; and as I was now +entirely in his power, I thought it best to smooth the way by a present: +Accordingly, I took with me in the evening one canister of gunpowder, +some amber, tobacco, and my umbrella: and as I considered that my bundles +would inevitably be searched, I concealed some few articles in the roof +of the hut where I lodged, and I put on my new blue coat, in order to +preserve it. + +All the houses belonging to the king and his family are surrounded by a +lofty mud wall, which converts the whole into a kind of citadel. The +interior is subdivided into different courts. At the first place of +entrance I observed a man standing with a musket on his shoulder; and I +found the way to his presence very intricate, leading through many +passages, with sentinels placed at the different doors. When we came to +the entrance of the court in which the king resides, both my guide and +interpreter, according to custom, took off their sandals; and the former +pronounced the king's name aloud, repeating it till he was answered from +within. We found the monarch sitting upon a mat, and two attendants with +him. I repeated what I had before told him concerning the object of my +journey, and my reasons for passing through his country. He seemed, +however, but half satisfied. The notion of travelling for curiosity was +quite new to him. He thought it impossible, he said, that any man in his +senses would undertake so dangerous a journey, merely to look at the +country and its inhabitants: however, when I offered to show him the +contents of my portmanteau, and every thing belonging to me, he was +convinced: and it was evident that his suspicion had arisen from a +belief, that every white man must of necessity be a trader. When I had +delivered my presents, he seemed well pleased, and was particularly +delighted with the umbrella, which he repeatedly furled and unfurled, to +the great admiration of himself and his two attendants, who could not for +some time comprehend the use of this wonderful machine. After this I was +about to take my leave, when the king, desiring me to stop awhile, began +along preamble in favour of the whites; extolling their immense wealth +and good dispositions. He next proceeded to an eulogium on my blue coat, +of which the yellow buttons seemed particularly to catch his fancy; and +he concluded by entreating me to present him with it; assuring me, for my +consolation under the loss of it, that he would wear it on all public +occasions, and inform every one who saw it of my great liberality towards +him. The request of an African prince, in his own dominions, particularly +when made to a stranger, comes little short of a command. It is only a +way of obtaining by gentle means what he can, if he pleases, take by +force; and as it was against my interest to offend him by a refusal, I +very quietly took off my coat, the only good one in my possession, and +laid it at his feet. + +In return for my compliance, he presented me with great plenty of +provisions, and desired to see me again in the morning. I accordingly +attended, and found him sitting upon his bed. He told me he was sick; and +wished to have a little blood taken from him; but I had no sooner tied up +his arm, and displayed the lancet, than his courage failed; and he begged +me to postpone the operation till the afternoon, as he felt himself, he +said, much better than he had been, and thanked me kindly for my +readiness to serve him. He then observed that his women were very +desirous to see me, and requested that I would favour them with a visit. +An attendant was ordered to conduct me; and I had no sooner entered the +court appropriated to the ladies, than the whole seraglio surrounded me: +some begging for physic, some for amber; and all of them desirous of +trying that great African specific, _blood-letting_. They were ten or +twelve in number, most of them young and handsome, and wearing on their +heads ornaments of gold, and beads of amber. + +They rallied me with a good deal of gaiety on different subjects; +particularly upon the whiteness of my skin, and the prominency of my +nose. They insisted that both were artificial. The first, they said, was +produced when I was an infant, by dipping me in milk; and they insisted +that my nose had been pinched every day, till it had acquired its present +unsightly and unnatural conformation. On my part, without disputing my +own deformity, I paid them many compliments on African beauty, I praised +the glossy jet of their skins, and the lovely depression of their noses; +but they said that flattery, or (as they emphatically termed it) +_honey-mouth_, was not esteemed in Bondou. In return, however, for my +company or my compliments, (to which, by the way, they seemed not so +insensible as they affected to be), they presented me with a jar of honey +and some fish, which were sent to my lodging; and I was desired to come +again to the king a little before sunset. + +I carried with me some beads and writing paper, it being usual to present +some small offering on taking leave; in return for which, the king gave +me five drachms of gold; observing that it was but a trifle, and given +out of pure friendship; but would be of use to me in travelling, for the +purchase of provision. He seconded this act of kindness by one still +greater; politely telling me, that though it was customary to examine the +baggage of every traveller passing through his country, yet, in the +present instance, he would dispense with that ceremony; adding, that I +was at liberty to depart when I pleased. + +Accordingly, on the morning of the 23d, we left Fatteconda, and about +eleven o'clock came to a small village, where we determined to stop for +the rest of the day. + +In the afternoon my fellow-travellers informed me, that as this was the +boundary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for travellers, it +would be necessary to continue our journey by night, until we should +reach a more hospitable part of the country. I agreed to the proposal, +and hired two people for guides through the woods; and as soon as the +people of the village were gone to sleep, (the moon shining bright,) we +set out. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts, and +the deep solitude of the forest, made the scene solemn and impressive. +Not a word was uttered by any of us, but in a whisper; all were +attentive, and every one anxious to show his sagacity, by pointing out to +me the wolves and hyaenas as they glided, like shadows, from one thicket +to another.--Towards morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, +where our guides awakened one of their acquaintances, and we stopped to +give the asses some corn and roast a few groundnuts for ourselves. At +daylight we resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at Joag in +the kingdom of Kajaaga. + +Being now in a country, and among a people, differing in many respects +from those that have as yet fallen under our observation, I shall, before +I proceed further, give some account of Bondou, (the territory we have +left,) and its inhabitants, the Foulahs, the description of whom I +purposely reserved for this part of my work. + +Bondou is bounded on the east by Bambouk; on the south-east, and south, +by Tenda, and the Simbani Wilderness; on the south-west by Woolli; on the +west by Foota Torra; and on the north by Kajaaga. + +The country, like that of Woolli, is very generally covered with woods, +but the land is more elevated, and towards the Faleme river, rises into +considerable hills. In native fertility the soil is not surpassed, I +believe, by any part of Africa. + +From the central situation of Bondou between the Gambia and Senegal +rivers, it is become a place of great resort; both for the Slatees, who +generally pass through it, in going from the coast to the interior +countries, and for occasional traders, who frequently come hither from +the inland countries to purchase salt. + +These different branches of commerce are conducted principally by +Mandingoes and Serawoollies, who have settled in the country. These +merchants likewise carry on a considerable trade with Gedumah, and other +Moorish countries, bartering corn and blue cotton cloths for salt; which +they again barter in Dentila and other districts for iron, shea-butter, +and small quantities of gold-dust. They likewise sell a variety of +sweet-smelling gums packed up in small bags, containing each about a +pound. These gums, being thrown on hot embers, produce a very pleasant +odour, and are used by the Mandingoes for perfuming their huts and +clothes. + +The customs, or duties on travellers, are very heavy; in almost every +town an ass-load pays a bar of European merchandize; and at Fatteconda, +the residence of the king, one Indian baft, or a musket, and six bottles +of gunpowder, are exacted as a common tribute. By means of these duties, +the King of Bondou is well supplied with arms and ammunition; a +circumstance which makes him formidable to the neighbouring states. + +The inhabitants differ in their complexions and national manners from the +Mandingoes and Serawoollies, with whom they are frequently at war. Some +years ago the King of Bondou crossed the Faleme river with a numerous +army, and after a short and bloody campaign, totally defeated the forces +of Samboo, + +King of Bambouk, who was obliged to sue for peace, and surrender to him +all the towns along the eastern bank of the Faleme. + +The Foulahs, in general, (as has been observed in a former chapter,) are +of a tawny complexion, with small features, and soft silky hair; next to +the Mandingoes they are undoubtedly the most considerable of all the +nations in this part of Africa. Their original country is said to be +Fooladoo, (which signifies the country of the Foulahs,) but they possess +at present many other kingdoms at a great distance from each other; their +complexion, however, is not exactly the same in the different districts; +in Bondou, and the other kingdoms which are situated in the vicinity of +the Moorish territories, they are of a more yellow complexion than in the +southern states. + +The Foulahs of Bondou are naturally of a mild and gentle disposition, but +the uncharitable maxims of the Koran have made them less hospitable to +strangers, and more reserved in their behaviour than the Mandingoes. They +evidently consider all the Negro natives as their inferiors; and when +talking of different nations, always rank themselves among the white +people. + +Their government differs from that of the Mandingoes chiefly in this, +that they are more immediately under the influence of the Mahomedan laws; +for all the chief men, (the king excepted,) and a large majority of the +inhabitants of Bondou, are Mussulmen, and the authority and laws of the +Prophet are every where looked upon as sacred and decisive. In the +exercise of their faith, however, they are not very intolerant towards +such of their countrymen as still retain their ancient superstitions. +Religious persecution is not known among them, nor is it necessary; for +the system of Mahomet is made to extend itself by means abundantly more +efficacious. By establishing small schools in the different towns, where +many of the Pagan as well as Mahomedan children are taught to read the +Koran, and instructed in the tenets of the Prophet, the Mahomedan priests +fix a bias on the minds, and form the character of their young disciples, +which no accidents of life can ever afterwards remove or alter. Many of +these little schools I visited in my progress through the country, and +observed with pleasure the great docility and submissive deportment of +the children, and heartily wished they had had better instructors, and a +purer religion. + +With the Mahomedan faith is also introduced the Arabic language, with +which most of the Foulahs have a slight acquaintance. The native tongue +abounds very much in liquids, but there is something unpleasant in the +manner of pronouncing it. A stranger, on hearing the common conversation +of two Foulahs, would imagine that they were scolding each other. Their +numerals are these:-- + + One ......... _Go_. + Two ......... _Deeddee_. + Three ......... _Tettee_. + Four ......... _Nee_. + Five ......... _Jouee_. + Six ......... _Jego_. + Seven ......... _Jedeeddee_. + Eight ......... _Je Tettee_. + Nine ......... _Je Nee_. + Ten ......... _Sappo_. + +The industry of the Foulahs, in the occupations of pasturage and +agriculture, is everywhere remarkable. Even on the banks of the Gambia, +the greater part of the corn is raised by them; and their herds and +flocks are more numerous and in better condition than those of the +Mandingoes; but in Bondou they are opulent in a high degree, and enjoy +all the necessaries of life in the greatest profusion. They display great +skill in the management of their cattle, making them extremely gentle by +kindness and familiarity. On the approach of night, they are collected +from the woods, and secured in folds, called korrees, which are +constructed in the neighbourhood of the different villages. In the middle +of each korree is erected a small hut, wherein one or two of the herdsmen +keep watch during the night, to prevent the cattle from being stolen, and +to keep up the fires which are kindled round the korree to frighten away +the wild beasts. + +The cattle are milked in the mornings and evenings; the milk is +excellent, but the quantity obtained from any one cow is by no means so +great as in Europe. The Foulahs use the milk chiefly as an article of +diet, and that not until it is quite sour. The cream which it affords is +very thick, and is converted into butter by stirring it violently in a +large calabash. This butter, when melted over a gentle fire, and freed +from impurities, is preserved in small earthen pots, and forms a part in +most of their dishes; it serves likewise to anoint their heads, and is +bestowed very liberally on their faces and arms. + +But although milk is plentiful, it is somewhat remarkable that the +Foulahs, and indeed all the inhabitants of this part of Africa, are +totally unacquainted with the art of making cheese. A firm attachment to +the customs of their ancestors makes them view with an eye of prejudice +every thing that looks like innovation. The heat of the climate, and the +great scarcity of salt, are held forth as unanswerable objections: and +the whole process appears to them too long and troublesome to be attended +with any solid advantage. + +Besides the cattle, which constitute the chief wealth of the Foulahs, +they possess some excellent horses, the breed of which seems to be a +mixture of the Arabian with the original African. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +_Account of Kajaaga.--Serawoollies--their manners and language.--Account +of Joag.--The Author is ill treated, and robbed of half of his effects, +by order of Batcheri, the king.--Charity of a female slave.--The Author +is visited by Demba Sego, nephew of the King of Kasson, who offers to +conduct him in safety to that kingdom.--Offer accepted.--The Author and +his protector, with a numerous retinue, set out and reach Samee, on the +banks of the Senegal.--Proceed to Kayee, and, crossing the Senegal, +arrive in the kingdom of Kasson._ + + +The kingdom of Kajaaga, in which I was now arrived, is called by the +French Gallam; but the name that I have adopted is universally used by +the natives. This country is bounded on the south-east and south by +Bambouk; on the west by Bondou and Foota Torra; and on the north by the +river Senegal. + +The air and climate are, I believe, more pure and salubrious than at any +of the settlements towards the coast; the face of the country is +everywhere interspersed with a pleasing variety of hills and valleys; and +the windings of the Senegal river, which descends from the rocky hills of +the interior, make the scenery on its banks very picturesque and +beautiful. + +The inhabitants are called Serawoollies, or (as the French write it) +_Seracolets_. Their complexion is a jet black: they are not to be +distinguished in this respect from the Jaloffs. The government is +monarchical; and the regal authority, from what I experienced of it, +seems to be sufficiently formidable. The people themselves, however, +complain of no oppression; and seemed all very anxious to support the +king in a contest he was going to enter into with the sovereign of +Kasson. The Serawoollies are habitually a trading people; they formerly +carried on a great commerce with the French in gold and slaves, and still +maintain some traffic in slaves with the British factories on the Gambia. +They are reckoned tolerably fair and just in their dealings, but are +indefatigable in their exertions to acquire wealth, and they derive +considerable profits by the sale of salt and cotton cloth in distant +countries. When a Serawoolli merchant returns home from a trading +expedition, the neighbours immediately assemble to congratulate him upon +his arrival. On these occasions the traveller displays his wealth and +liberality, by making a few presents to his friends; but if he has been +unsuccessful, his levee is soon over; and every one looks upon him as a +man of no understanding, who could perform a long journey, and (as they +express it) _bring back nothing but the hair upon his head_. + +Their language abounds much in gutterals, and is not so harmonious as +that spoken by the Foulahs; it is, however, well worth acquiring by those +who travel through this part of the African continent, it being very +generally understood in the kingdoms of Kasson, Kaarta, Ludamar, and the +northern parts of Bambarra. In all these countries the Serawoollies are +the chief traders. Their numerals are:-- + + One ......... _Bani_. + Two ......... _Fillo_. + Three ......... _Sicco_. + Four ......... _Narrato_. + Five ......... _Karrago_. + Six ......... _Toomo_. + Seven ......... _Nero_. + Eight ......... _Sego_. + Nine ......... _Kabbo_. + Ten ......... _Tamo_. + Twenty......... _Tamo di fillo_. + +We arrived at Joag, the frontier town of this kingdom, on the 24th of +December; and took up our residence at the house of the chief man, who is +here no longer known by the title of _Alkaid_, but is called the _Dooty_. +He was a rigid Mahomedan, but distinguished for his hospitality. This +town may be supposed, on a gross computation, to contain two thousand +inhabitants. It is surrounded by a high wall, in which are a number of +port-holes, for musketry to fire through; in case of an attack. Every +man's possession is likewise surrounded by a wall; the whole forming so +many distinct citadels; and amongst a people unacquainted with the use of +artillery, these walls answer all the purposes of stronger +fortifications. To the westward of the town is a small river, on the +banks of which the natives raise great plenty of tobacco and onions. + +The same evening Madiboo the Bushreen, who had accompanied me from +Pisania, went to pay a visit to his father and mother, who dwelt at a +neighbouring town called Dramanet. He was joined by my other attendant +the blacksmith; and as soon as it was dark, I was invited to see the +sports of the inhabitants, it being their custom, on the arrival of +strangers, to welcome them by diversions of different kinds. I found a +great crowd surrounding a party who were dancing, by the light of some +large fires, to the music of four drums, which were beat with great +exactness and uniformity. The dances, however, consisted more in wanton +gestures than in muscular exertion or graceful attitudes. The ladies vied +with each other in displaying the most voluptuous movements imaginable. + +December 25th. About two o'clock in the morning a number of horsemen came +into the town, and having awakened my landlord, talked to him for some +time in the Serawoolli tongue; after which they dismounted, and came to +the Bentang, on which I had made my bed. One of them thinking that I was +asleep, attempted to steal the musket that lay by me on the mat; but +finding that he could not effect his purpose undiscovered, he desisted: +and the strangers sat down by me till daylight. + +I could now easily perceive, by the countenance of my interpreter, +Johnson, that something very unpleasant was in agitation. I was likewise +surprised to see Madiboo and the blacksmith so soon returned. On +inquiring the reason, Madiboo informed me that as they were dancing at +Dramanet, ten horsemen, belonging to Batcheri, king of the country, with +his second son at their head, had arrived there, inquiring if the white +man had passed: and on being told that I was at Joag, they rode off +without stopping. Madiboo added, that on hearing this, he and the +blacksmith hastened back to give me notice of their coming. Whilst I was +listening to this narrative, the ten horsemen mentioned by Madiboo +arrived; and coming to the Bentang, dismounted and seated themselves with +those who had come before, the whole being about twenty in number, +forming a circle round me, and each man holding his musket in his hand. I +took this opportunity to observe to my landlord, that as I did not +understand the Serawoolli tongue, I hoped, whatever the men had to say +they would speak in Mandingo. To this they agreed; and a short man, +loaded with a remarkable number of saphies, opened the business in a very +long harangue, informing me that I had entered the king's town without +having first paid the duties, or giving any present to the king, and +that, according to the laws of the country, my people, cattle, and +baggage, were forfeited. He added, that they had received orders from +the king to conduct me to Maana,[8] the place of his residence; and if I +refused to come with them, their orders were to bring me by force; upon +his saying which, all of them rose up and asked me if I was ready. It +would have been equally vain and imprudent in me to have resisted or +irritated such a body of men; I therefore affected to comply with their +commands, and begged them only to stop a little until I had given my +horse a feed of corn, and settled matters with my landlord. The poor +blacksmith, who was a native of Kasson, mistook this feigned compliance +for a real intention, and taking me away from the company, told me that +he had always behaved towards me as if I had been his father and master; +and he hoped I would not entirely ruin him, by going to Maana; adding, +that as there was every reason to believe a war would soon take place +between Kasson and Kajaaga, he should not only lose his little property, +the savings of four years industry, but should certainly be detained and +sold as a slave, unless his friends had an opportunity of paying two +slaves for his redemption. I saw this reasoning in its full force, and +determined to do my utmost to preserve the blacksmith from so dreadful a +fate. I therefore told the king's son that I was ready to go with him, +upon condition that the blacksmith, who was an inhabitant of a distant +kingdom, and entirely unconnected with me, should be allowed to stay at +Joag till my return: to this they all objected; and insisted, that as we +had all acted contrary to the laws, we were all equally answerable for +our conduct. + + [8] Maana is within a short distance of the ruins of Fort St. Joseph, + on the Senegal river, formerly a French factory. + +I now took my landlord aside, and giving him a small present of +gunpowder, asked his advice in so critical a situation. He was decidedly +of opinion that I ought not to go to the king: he was fully convinced, he +said, that if the king should discover anything valuable in my +possession, he would not be over scrupulous about the means of obtaining +it. This made me the more solicitous to conciliate matters with the +king's people; and I began by observing, that what I had done did not +proceed from any want of respect towards the king, nor from any wish to +violate his laws, but wholly from my own inexperience and ignorance, +being a stranger, totally unacquainted with the laws and customs of their +country. I had indeed entered the king's frontier, without knowing that I +was to pay the duties beforehand, but I was ready to pay them now; which +I thought was all that they could reasonably demand. I then tendered +them, as a present to the king, the five drachms of gold which the King +of Bondou had given me: this they accepted, but insisted on examining my +baggage, which I opposed in vain. The bundles were opened; but the men +were much disappointed in not finding in them so much gold and amber as +they expected; they made up the deficiency, however, by taking whatever +things they fancied; and after wrangling and debating with me till +sunset, they departed, having first robbed me of half my goods. These +proceedings dispirited my people, and our fortitude was not strengthened +by a very indifferent supper, after a long fast. Madiboo begged me to +turn back; Johnson laughed at the thoughts of proceeding without money, +and the blacksmith was afraid to be seen, or even to speak, lest any one +should discover him to be a native of Kasson. In this disposition we +passed the night by the side of a dim fire, and our situation the next +day was very perplexing: it was impossible to procure provisions without +money, and I knew that if I produced any beads or amber, the king would +immediately hear of it, and I should probably lose the few effects I had +concealed. We therefore resolved to combat hunger for the day, and wait +some favourable opportunity of purchasing or begging provisions. + +Towards evening, as I was sitting upon the Bentang, chewing straws, an +old female slave, passing by with a basket upon her head, asked me _if I +had got my dinner_. As I thought she only laughed at me, I gave her no +answer; but my boy, who was sitting close by, answered for me, and told +her that the king's people had robbed me of all my money. On hearing +this, the good old woman, with a look of unaffected benevolence, +immediately took the basket from her head, and showing me that it +contained ground nuts, asked me if I could eat them; being answered in +the affirmative, she presented me with a few handfuls, and walked away +before I had time to thank her for this seasonable supply. This trifling +circumstance gave me peculiar satisfaction. I reflected with pleasure on +the conduct of this poor untutored slave, who, without examining into my +character or circumstances, listened implicitly to the dictates of her +own heart. Experience had taught her that hunger was painful, and her own +distresses made her commiserate those of others. + +The old woman had scarcely left me, when I received information that a +nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo King of Kasson, was coming to +pay me a visit. He had been sent on an embassy to Batcheri, King of +Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle the disputes which had arisen between his +uncle and the latter; but after debating the matter four days without +success, he was now on his return; and hearing that a white man was at +Joag, in his way to Kasson, curiosity brought him to see me. I +represented to him my situation and distresses; when he frankly offered +me his protection, and said he would be my guide to Kasson, (provided I +would set out the next morning,) and be answerable for my safety. I +readily and gratefully accepted his offer; and was ready, with my +attendants, by daylight on the morning of the 27th of December. + +My protector, whose name was Demba Sego, probably after his uncle, had a +numerous retinue. Our company at leaving Joag consisted of thirty persons +and six loaded asses; and we rode on cheerfully enough for some hours, +without any remarkable occurrence, until we came to a species of tree, +for which my interpreter, Johnson, had made frequent inquiry. On finding +it, he desired us to stop; and producing a white chicken, which he had +purchased at Joag for the purpose, he tied it by the leg to one of the +branches, and then told us we might now safely proceed, for that our +journey would be prosperous. This circumstance is mentioned merely to +illustrate the disposition of the Negroes, and to show the power of +superstition over their minds; for although this man had resided seven +years in England, it was evident that he still retained the prejudices +and notions he had imbibed in his youth. He meant this ceremony, he told +me, as an offering or sacrifice to the spirits of the woods; who were, he +said, a powerful race of beings of a white colour, with long flowing +hair. I laughed at his folly, but could not condemn the piety of his +motives. + +At noon we had reached Gungadi, a large town, where we stopped about an +hour, until some of the asses that had fallen behind came up. Here I +observed a number of date trees, and a mosque built of clay, with six +turrets, on the pinnacles of which were placed six ostrich eggs. A little +before sunset we arrived at the town of Samee, on the banks of the +Senegal, which is here a beautiful but shallow river, moving slowly over +a bed of sand and gravel. The banks are high and covered with verdure; +the country is open and cultivated; and the rocky hills of Felow and +Bambouk add much to the beauty of the landscape. + +December 28th. We departed from Samee, and arrived in the afternoon at +Kayee, a large village, part of which is situated on the north, and part +on the south side of the river. A little above this place is a +considerable cataract, where the river flows over a ledge of whinstone +rock with great force: below this the river is remarkably black and deep; +and here it was proposed to make our cattle swim over. After hallooing, +and firing some muskets, the people on the Kasson side observed us, and +brought over a canoe to carry our baggage. I did not, however, think it +possible to get the cattle down the bank, which is here more than forty +feet above the water; but the Negroes seized the horses, and launched one +at a time down a sort of trench or gulley that was almost perpendicular, +and seemed to have been worn smooth by this sort of use. After the +terrified cattle had been plunged in this manner to the water's edge, +every man got down as well as he could. The ferryman then taking hold of +the most steady of the horses by a rope, led him into the water, and +paddled the canoe a little from the brink; upon which a general attack +commenced upon the other horses, who, finding themselves pelted and +kicked on all sides, unanimously plunged into the river, and followed +their companion. A few boys swam in after them; and by laving water upon +them when they attempted to return, urged them onwards, and we had the +satisfaction in about fifteen minutes to see them all safe on the other +side. It was a matter of greater difficulty to manage the asses: their +natural stubbornness of disposition made them endure a great deal of +pelting and shoving before they would venture into the water; and when +they had reached the middle of the stream, four of them turned back, in +spite of every exertion to get them forwards. Two hours were spent in +getting the whole of them over; an hour more was employed in transporting +the baggage; and it was near sunset before the canoe returned, when Demba +Sego and myself embarked in this dangerous passage-boat, which the least +motion was like to overset. The king's nephew thought this a proper time +to have a peep into a tin box of mine, that stood in the forepart of the +canoe; and in stretching out his hand for it, he unfortunately destroyed +the equilibrium, and overset the canoe. Luckily we were not far advanced, +and got back to the shore without much difficulty; from whence, after +wringing the water from our clothes, we took a fresh departure, and were +soon afterwards safely landed in Kasson. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +_Arrival at Teesee.--Interview with Tiggity Sego, the king's +brother,--The Author's detention at Teesee.--Some account of that place +and its inhabitants.--Incidents which occurred there.--Rapacious conduct +of Tiggity Sego toward the Author on his departure--Sets out for +Kooniakary, the capital of the kingdom.--Incidents on the road, and +arrival at Kooniakary._ + + +We no sooner found ourselves safe in Kasson, than Demba Sego told me that +we were now in his uncle's dominions, and he hoped I would consider, +being now out of danger, the obligation I owed to him, and make him a +suitable return for the trouble he had taken on my account by a handsome +present. This, as he knew how much had been pilfered from me at Joag, was +rather an unexpected proposition; and I began to fear that I had not much +improved my condition by crossing the water; but as it would have been +folly to complain, I made no observation upon his conduct, and gave him +seven bars of amber and some tobacco, with which he seemed to be content. + +After a long day's journey, in the course of which I observed a number of +large loose nodules of white granite, we arrived at Teesee on the evening +of December 29th, and were accommodated in Demba Sego's hut. The next +morning he introduced me to his father Tiggity Sego, brother to the King +of Kasson, chief of Teesee. The old man viewed me with great earnestness, +having never, he said, beheld but one white man before, whom by his +description I immediately knew to be Major Houghton. I related to him, in +answer to his inquiries, the motives that induced me to explore the +country. But he seemed to doubt the truth of what I asserted; thinking, I +believe, that I secretly meditated some project which I was afraid to +avow. He told me, it would be necessary I should go to Kooniakary, the +residence of the king, to pay my respects to that prince, but desired me +to come to him again before I left Teesee. + +In the afternoon one of his slaves eloped; and a general alarm being +given, every person that had a horse rode into the woods, in the hopes of +apprehending him; and Demba Sego begged the use of my horse for the same +purpose. I readily consented: and in about an hour they all returned with +the slave, who was severely flogged, and afterwards put in irons. On the +day following, (Dec. 31,) Demba Sego was ordered to go with twenty +horsemen to a town in Gedumah, to adjust some dispute with the Moors, a +party of whom were supposed to have stolen three horses from Teesee. +Demba begged a second time the use of my horse; adding, that the sight of +my bridle and saddle would give him consequence among the Moors. This +request also I readily granted, and he promised to return at the end of +three days. During his absence I amused myself with walking about the +town, and conversing with the natives, who attended me everywhere with +great kindness and curiosity, and supplied me with milk, eggs, and what +other provisions I wanted, on very easy terms. + +Teesee is a large unwalled town, having no security against the attack of +an enemy except a sort of citadel, in which Tiggity and his family +constantly reside. This town, according to the report of the natives, was +formerly inhabited only by a few Foulah shepherds, who lived in +considerable affluence by means of the excellent meadows in the +neighbourhood, in which they reared great herds of cattle; but their +prosperity attracting the envy of some Mandingoes, the latter drove out +the shepherds, and took possession of their lands. + +The present inhabitants, though they possess both cattle and corn in +abundance, are not over nice in articles of diet; rats, moles, squirrels, +snakes, locusts, &c., are eaten without scruple by the highest and +lowest. My people were one evening invited to a feast given by some of +the townsmen, where, after making a hearty meal of what they thought fish +and kouskous, one of them found a piece of hard skin in the dish, and +brought it along with him, to show me what sort of fish they had been +eating. On examining the skin, I found they had been feasting on a large +snake. Another custom, still more extraordinary, is, that no woman is +allowed to eat an egg. This prohibition, whether arising from ancient +superstition, or from the craftiness of some old Bushreen who loved eggs +himself, is rigidly adhered to, and nothing will more affront a woman of +Teesee than to offer her an egg. The custom is the more singular, as the +men eat eggs without scruple in the presence of their wives, and I never +observed the same prohibition in any other of the Mandingo countries. + +The third day after his son's departure, Tiggity Sego held a palaver on a +very extraordinary occasion, which I attended; and the debates on both +sides of the question displayed much ingenuity. The case was this: A +young man, a Kafir, of considerable affluence, who had recently married a +young and handsome wife, applied to a very devout Bushreen, or Mussulman +priest of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies for his protection +during the approaching war. The Bushreen complied with the request; and +in order, as he pretended, to render the saphies more efficacious, +enjoined the young man to avoid any nuptial intercourse with his bride +for the space of six weeks. Severe as the injunction was, the Kafir +strictly obeyed; and without telling his wife the real cause, absented +himself from her company. In the meantime, it began to be whispered at +Teesee, that the Bushreen, who always performed his evening devotions at +the door of the Kafir's hut, was more intimate with the young wife than +he ought to be. At first, the good husband was unwilling to suspect the +honour of his sanctified friend, and one whole month elapsed before any +jealousy rose in his mind; but hearing the charge repeated he at last +interrogated his wife on the subject who frankly confessed that the +Bushreen had seduced her. + +Hereupon the Kafir put her into confinement, and called a palaver upon +the Bushreen's conduct. The fact was clearly proved against him; and he +was sentenced to be sold into slavery, or to find two slaves for his +redemption, according to the pleasure of the complainant. The injured +husband, however, was unwilling to proceed against his friend to such +extremity, and desired rather to have him publicly flogged before Tiggity +Sego's gate. This was agreed to, and the sentence was immediately +executed. The culprit was tied by the hands to a strong stake; and a long +black rod being brought forth, the executioner, after flourishing it +round his head for some time, applied it with such force and dexterity to +the Bushreen's back, as to make him roar until the woods resounded with +his screams. The surrounding multitude, by their hooting and laughing, +manifested how much they enjoyed the punishment of this old gallant; and +it is worthy of remark, that the number of stripes was precisely the same +as are enjoined by the Mosaic law, _forty, save one._ + +As there appeared great probability that Teesee, from its being a +frontier town, would be much exposed, during the war, to the predatory +excursions of the Moors of Gadumah, Tiggity Sego had, before my arrival, +sent round to the neighbouring villages, to beg or to purchase as much +provisions as would afford subsistence to the inhabitants for one whole +year, independently of the crop on the ground, which the Moors might +destroy. This project was well received by the country people, and they +fixed a day on which to bring all the provisions they could spare to +Teesee; and as my horse was not yet returned, I went in the afternoon of +January 4th, 1796, to meet the escort with the provisions. + +It was composed of about 400 men marching in good order, with corn and +ground nuts in large calabashes upon their heads. They were preceded by a +strong guard of bowmen, and followed by eight musicians or singing men. +As soon as they approached the town, the latter began a song, every verse +of which was answered by the company, and succeeded by a few strokes on +the large drums. In this manner they proceeded amidst the acclamations of +the populace, till they reached the house of Tiggity Sego, where the +loads were deposited; and in the evening they all assembled under the +Bentang tree, and spent the night in dancing and merriment. Many of these +strangers remained at Teesee for three days, during which time I was +constantly attended by as many of them as could conveniently see me; one +party giving way to another, as soon as curiosity was gratified. + +On the 5th of January an embassy of ten people belonging to Almami +Abdulkader, King of Foota Torra, a country to the west of Bondou, arrived +at Teesee; and desiring Tiggity Sego to call an assembly of the +inhabitants, announced publicly their king's determination, to this +effect: "That unless all the people of Kasson would embrace the Mahomedan +religion, and evince their conversion by saying eleven public prayers, he +(the King of Foota Torra) could not possibly stand neuter in the present +contest, but would certainly join his arms to those of Kajaaga." A +message of this nature, from so powerful a prince, could not fail to +create great alarm; and the inhabitants of Teesee, after a long +consultation, agreed to conform to his good pleasure, humiliating as it +was to them. Accordingly, one and all publicly offered up eleven prayers, +which were considered a sufficient testimony of their having renounced +Paganism, and embraced the doctrines of the Prophet. + +It was the 8th of January before Demba Sego returned with my horse; and +being quite wearied out with the delay, I went immediately to inform his +father, that I should set out for Kooniakary early the next day. The old +man made many frivolous objections; and at length gave me to understand, +that I must not think of departing, without first paying him the same +duties he was entitled to receive from all travellers; besides which, he +expected, he said, some acknowledgment for his kindness towards me. +Accordingly, on the morning of the 9th, my friend Demba, with a number of +people, came to me, and said that they were sent by Tiggity Sego for my +present, and wished to see what goods I had appropriated for that +purpose. I knew that resistance was hopeless, and complaint unavailing; +and being in some measure prepared, by the intimation I had received the +night before, I quietly offered him seven bars of amber and five of +tobacco. After surveying these articles for some time very coolly, Demba +laid them down, and told me this, was not a present for a man of Tiggity +Sego's consequence, who had it in his power to take whatever he pleased +from me. He added, that if I did not consent to make him a larger +offering, he would carry all my baggage to his father and let him choose +for himself. I had not time for reply; for Demba and his attendants +immediately began to open my bundles, and spread the different articles +upon the floor, where they underwent a more strict examination than they +had done at Joag. Every thing that pleased them they took without +scruple; and amongst other things, Demba seized the tin box, which had so +much attracted his attention in crossing the river. Upon collecting the +scattered remains of my little fortune after these people had left me, I +found that as at Joag I had been plundered of half, so here, without even +the shadow of accusation, I was deprived of half the remainder. The +blacksmith himself, though a native of Kasson, had also been compelled to +open his bundles, and take an oath that the different articles they +contained were his own exclusive property. There was, however, no remedy; +and having been under some obligation to Demba Sego for his attention +towards me in the journey from Joag, I did not reproach him for his +rapacity, but determined to quit Teesee at all events the next morning. +In the meanwhile, in order to raise the drooping spirits of my +attendants, I purchased a fat sheep, and had it dressed for our dinner. + +Early in the morning of January 10th, therefore, I left Teesee, and about +mid-day ascended a ridge, from whence we had a distant view of the hills +round Kooniakary. In the evening we reached a small village, where we +slept, and departing from thence the next morning, crossed in a few hours +a narrow but deep stream called Krieko, a branch of the Senegal. About +two miles farther to the eastward, we passed a large town called Madina; +and at two o'clock came in sight of Jumbo, the blacksmith's native town, +from whence he had been absent more than four years. Soon after this, his +brother, who had by some means been apprised of his coming, came out to +meet him, accompanied by a singing man; he brought a horse for the +blacksmith, that he might enter his native town in a dignified manner; +and he desired each of us to put a good charge of powder into our guns. +The singing man now led the way, followed by the two brothers; and we +were presently joined by a number of people from the town, all of whom +demonstrated great joy at seeing their old acquaintance the blacksmith, +by the most extravagant jumping and singing. On entering the town, the +singing man began an ex-tempore song in praise of the blacksmith, +extolling his courage in having overcome so many difficulties; and +concluding with a strict injunction to his friends to dress him plenty of +victuals. + +When we arrived at the blacksmith's place of residence we dismounted and +fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was very +tender; for these rude children of nature, free from restraint, display +their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. Amidst these +transports, the blacksmith's aged mother was led forth, leaning upon a +staff. Every one made way for her; and she stretched out her hand to bid +her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his hands, arms, and +face, with great care, and seemed highly delighted that her latter days +were blessed by his return, and that her ears once more heard the music +of his voice. From this interview I was fully convinced, that whatever +difference there is between the Negro and European, in the conformation +of the nose and the colour of the skin, there is none in the genuine +sympathies and characteristic feelings of our common nature. + +During the tumult of these congratulations, I had seated myself apart, by +the side of one of the huts, being unwilling to interrupt the flow of +filial and parental tenderness; and the attention of the company was so +entirely taken up with the blacksmith, that I believe none of his friends +had observed me. When all the people present had seated themselves, the +blacksmith was desired by his father to give them some account of his +adventures, and silence being commanded, he began; and after repeatedly +thanking God for the success that had attended him, related every +material occurrence that had happened to him from his leaving Kasson to +his arrival at the Gambia; his employment and success in those parts; and +the dangers he had escaped in returning to his native country. In the +latter part of his narration, he had frequently occasion to mention me; +and after many strong expressions concerning my kindness to him, he +pointed to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, _affille ibi siring_, +"see him sitting there." In a moment all eyes were turned upon me; I +appeared like a being dropped from the clouds; every one was surprised +that they had not observed me before; and a few women and children +expressed great uneasiness at being so near a man of such an uncommon +appearance. By degrees, however, their apprehensions subsided; and when +the blacksmith assured them that I was perfectly inoffensive, and would +hurt nobody, some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my +clothes; but many of them were still very suspicious; and when by +accident I happened to move myself, or look at the young children, their +mothers would scamper off with them with the greatest precipitation. In a +few hours, however, they all became reconciled to me. + +With those worthy people I spent the remainder of that, and the whole of +the ensuing day, in feasting and merriment; and the blacksmith declared +he would not quit me during my stay at Kooniakary, for which place we set +out early on the morning of the 14th of January, and arrived about the +middle of the day at Soolo, a small village three miles to the south of +it. + +As this place was somewhat out of the direct road, it is necessary to +observe, that I went thither to visit a Slatee, or Gambia trader, of +great note and reputation, named Salim Daucari. He was well known to Dr +Laidley, who had trusted him with effects to the value of five slaves, +and had given me an order for the whole of the debt. We luckily found him +at home, and he received me with great kindness and attention. It is +remarkable, however, that the King of Kasson was, by some means, +immediately apprised of my motions; for I had been at Soolo but a few +hours, before Sambo Sego, his second son, came thither with a party of +horse, to inquire what had prevented me from proceeding to Kooniakary, +and waiting immediately upon the king, who, he said, was impatient to see +me. Salim Daucari made my apology, and promised to accompany me to +Kooniakary the same evening: we accordingly departed from Soolo at +sunset, and in about an hour entered Kooniakary. But as the king had gone +to sleep, we deferred the interview till next morning, and slept at the +hut of Sambo Sego. + +My interview with the king, and the incidents which occurred to me in the +kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta, will be the subject of the ensuing +chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +_The Author admitted to an audience of the King of Kasson, whom he finds +well disposed towards him.--Incidents during the Author's stay at +Kooniakary.--Departs thence for Kemmoo, the capital of Kaarta.--Is +received with great kindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades him +from prosecuting his journey, on account of approaching hostilities with +the King of Bambarra.--The Author determines, notwithstanding, to +proceed: and the usual route being obstructed, takes the path to Ludamar, +a Moorish kingdom.--Is accommodated by the king with a guide to Jarra, +the frontier town of the Moorish territories; and sets out for that +place, accompanied by three of the king's sons, and 200 horsemen._ + + +About eight o'clock in the morning of January 15, 1796, we went to an +audience of the king, (Demba Sego Jalla,) but the crowd of people to see +me was so great, that I could scarcely get admittance. A passage being at +length obtained, I made my bow to the monarch, whom we found sitting upon +a mat, in a large hut: he appeared to be a man of about sixty years of +age. His success in war, and the mildness of his behaviour in time of +peace, had much endeared him to all his subjects. He surveyed me with +great attention; and when Salim Daucari explained to him the object of my +journey, and my reasons for passing through his country, the good old +king appeared not only perfectly satisfied, but promised me every +assistance in his power. He informed me that he had seen Major Houghton, +and presented him with a white horse; but that, after crossing the +kingdom of Kaarta, he had lost his life among the Moors; in what manner +he could not inform me. When this audience was ended we returned to our +lodging, and I made up a small present for the king, out of the few +effects that were left me; for I had not yet received anything from Salim +Daucari. This present, though inconsiderable in itself, was well received +by the king, who sent me in return a large white bullock. The sight of +this animal quite delighted my attendants; not so much on account of its +bulk, as from its being of a white colour, which is considered as a +particular mark of favour. But although the king himself was well +disposed towards me, and readily granted me permission to pass through +his territories, I soon discovered that very great and unexpected +obstacles were likely to impede my progress. Besides the war which was on +the point of breaking out between Kasson and Kajaaga, I was told that the +next kingdom of Kaarta, through which my route lay, was involved in the +issue; and was furthermore threatened with hostilities on the part of +Bambarra. The king himself informed me of these circumstances, and +advised me to stay in the neighbourhood of Kooniakary, till such time as +he could procure proper information respecting Bambarra, which he +expected to do in the course of four or five days, as he had already, he +said, sent four messengers into Kaarta for that purpose. I readily +submitted to this proposal, and went to Soolo, to stay there till the +return of one of those messengers. This afforded me a favourable +opportunity of receiving what money Salim Daucari could spare me on Dr +Laidley's account. I succeeded in receiving the value of three slaves, +chiefly in gold dust; and being anxious to proceed as quickly as +possible, I begged Daucari to use his interest with the king to allow me +a guide by the way of Fooladoo, as I was informed that the war had +already commenced between the Kings of Bambarra and Kaarta. Daucari +accordingly set out for Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, and the +same evening returned with the king's answer, which was to this purpose, +that the king had many years ago made an agreement with Daisy, King of +Kaarta, to send all merchants and travellers through his dominions; but +that if I wished to take the route through Fooladoo, I had his permission +so to do; though he could not, consistently with his agreement, lend me a +guide. Having felt the want of regal protection in a former part of my +journey, I was unwilling to hazard a repetition of the hardships I had +then experienced, especially as the money I had received was probably the +last supply that I should obtain; I therefore determined to wait for the +return of the messengers from Kaarta. + +In the interim, it began to be whispered abroad, that I had received +plenty of gold from Salim Daucari; and on the morning of the 23d, Sambo +Sego paid me a visit with a party of horsemen. He insisted upon knowing +the exact amount of the money I had obtained; declaring, that whatever +the sum was, one half of it must go to the king; besides which, he +intimated that he expected a handsome present for himself, as being the +king's sons and for his attendants, as being the king's relations. The +reader will easily perceive, that if all these demands had been +satisfied, I should not have been overburdened with money; but though it +was very mortifying to me to comply with the demands of injustice, and so +arbitrary an exaction, yet, thinking it was highly dangerous to make a +foolish resistance, and irritate the lion when within the reach of his +paw, I prepared to submit; and if Salim Daucari had not interposed, all +my endeavours to mitigate this oppressive claim would have been of no +avail, Salim at last prevailed upon Sambo to accept sixteen bars of +European merchandize, and some powder and ball, as a complete payment of +every demand that could be made upon me in the kingdom of Kasson. + +January 26th. In the forenoon, I went to the top of a high hill to the +southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of the +country. The number of towns and villages, and the extensive cultivation +around them, surpassed every thing I had yet seen in Africa. A gross +calculation may be formed of the number of inhabitants in this delightful +plain, by considering, that the King of Kasson can raise four thousand +fighting men by the sound of his war-drum. In traversing the rocky +eminences of this hill, which are almost destitute of vegetation, I +observed a number of large holes in the crevices and fissures of the +rocks, where the wolves and hyaenas take refuge during the day. Some of +these animals paid us a visit on the evening of the 27th: their approach +was discovered by the dogs of the village; and on this occasion it is +remarkable, that the dogs did not bark, but howl in the most dismal +manner. The inhabitants of the village no sooner heard them than, knowing +the cause, they armed themselves; and providing bunches of dry grass, +went in a body to the inclosure in the middle of the village where the +cattle were kept. Here they lighted the bunches of grass, and, waving +them to and fro, ran hooping and hallooing towards the hills. This +manoeuvre had the desired effect of frightening the wolves away from the +village; but, on examination, we found that they had killed five of the +cattle, and torn and wounded many others. + +February 1st. The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought +intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and +Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the Bambarra +army invaded that country. + +Feb. 3d. Early in the morning, two guides on horseback came from +Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly took +leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my +fellow-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my welfare had +been so conspicuous; and about ten o'clock departed from Soolo. We +travelled this day through a rocky and hilly country, along the banks of +the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the village of Soomo, where we +slept. + +Feb. 4th. We departed from Soomo, and continued our route along the banks +of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, and swarm with +inhabitants. At this time they were increased by the number of people +that had flown thither from Kaarta, on account of the Bambarra war. In +the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large village, the residence of Madi +Konko, governor of the hilly country of Kasson, which is called Sorroma, +From hence the guides appointed by the King of Kasson returned, to join +in the expedition against Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th, before I +could prevail on Madi Konko to appoint me a guide to Kaarta. + +Feb. 7th. Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko's son as a guide, we +continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until the afternoon, +when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. The Krieko is here but a +small rivulet; this beautiful stream takes its rise a little to the +eastward of this town, and descends with a rapid and noisy current until +it reaches the bottom of the high hill called Tappa, where it becomes +more placid, and winds gently through the lovely plains of Kooniakary; +after which, having received an additional branch from the north, it is +lost in the Senegal, somewhere near the falls of Felow. + +Feb. 8th. This day we travelled over a rough stony country, and having +passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in the afternoon at +Lackarago, a small village, which stands upon the ridge of hills that +separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the course of the day we +passed many hundreds of people flying from Kaarta, with their families +and effects. + +Feb. 9th. Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a little +to the eastward came to the brow of a hill, from whence we had an +extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were perceived some +very distant hills, which our guide told us were the mountains of +Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt +precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a dry river course, where +the trees meeting over head made the place dark and cool. In a little +time we reached the bottom of this romantic glen, and about ten o'clock +emerged from between two rocky hills, and found ourselves on the level +and sandy plains of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a Korree, or +watering-place, where, for a few strings of beads, I purchased as much +milk and corn-meal as we could eat: indeed, provisions are here so cheap, +and the shepherds live in such affluence, that they seldom ask any, +return for what refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this +Korree we reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for +the night. + +Feb. 10th. We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few clothes +washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs before we +ventured towards the capital. + +Feb. 11th. Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state of the +country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging, that suspecting +he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I refused to submit to +his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were so much frightened at the +reports of approaching wars that they refused to proceed any further, +unless I could settle matters with him, and induce him to accompany us to +Kemmoo, for our protection on the road. This I accomplished with some +difficulty, and by a present of a blanket which I had brought with me to +sleep in, and for which our landlord had conceived a very great liking: +matters were at length amicably adjusted, and he mounted his horse and +led the way. He was one of those Negroes who, together with the +ceremonial part of the Mahomedan religion, retain all their ancient +superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. They are called Johars, or +Jowers, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and powerful tribe. We +had no sooner got into a dark and lonely part of the first wood, than he +made a sign for us to stop, and taking hold of a hollow piece of bamboo, +that hung as an amulet round his neck, whistled very loud three times. I +confess I was somewhat startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his +companions to come and attack us; but he assured me that it was done +merely with a view to ascertain what success we were likely to meet with +on our present journey. He then dismounted, laid his spear across the +road, and having said a number of short prayers, concluded with three +loud whistles; after which he listened for some time, as if in +expectation of an answer, and receiving none, told us we might proceed +without fear, for there was no danger. About noon we passed a number of +large villages quite deserted, the inhabitants having fled into Kasson to +avoid the horrors of war. We reached Karankalla at sunset; this formerly +was a large town, but having been plundered by the Bambarrans about four +years ago, nearly one half of it is still in ruins. + +Feb. 12th. At daylight we departed from Karankalla, and as it was but a +short day's journey to Kemmoo, we travelled slower than usual, and amused +ourselves by collecting such eatable fruits as grew near the road-side. +In this pursuit I had wandered a little from my people, and being +uncertain whether they were before or behind me, I hastened to a rising +ground to look about me. As I was proceeding towards this eminence, two +Negro horsemen, armed with muskets, came galloping from among the bushes: +on seeing them I made a full stop; the horsemen did the same; and all +three of us seemed equally surprised and confounded at this interview. As +I approached them, their fears increased, and one of them, after casting +upon me a look of horror, rode off at full speed; the other, in a panic +of fear, put his hands over his eyes, and continued muttering prayers +until his horse, seemingly without the rider's knowledge, conveyed him +slowly after his companion. About a mile to the westward, they fell in +with my attendants, to whom they related a frightful story: it seems +their fears had dressed me in the flowing robes of a tremendous spirit; +and one of them affirmed, that when I made my appearance, a cold blast of +wind came pouring down upon him from the sky, like so much cold water. +About noon we saw at a distance the capital of Kaarta, situated in the +middle of an open plain, the country for two miles round being cleared of +wood, by the great consumption of that article for building and fuel, and +we entered the town about two o'clock in the afternoon. + +We proceeded without stopping to the court before the king's residence +but I was so completely surrounded by the gazing multitude, that I did +not attempt to dismount, but sent in the landlord and Madi Konko's son, +to acquaint the king of my arrival. In a little time they returned +accompanied by a messenger from the king, signifying that he would see me +in the evening; and, in the meantime, the messenger had orders to procure +me a lodging, and see that the crowd did not molest me. He conducted me +into a court, at the door of which he stationed a man, with a stick in +his hand, to keep off the mob, and then showed me a large hut, in which I +was to lodge. I had scarcely seated myself in this spacious apartment, +when the mob entered; it was found impossible to keep them out, and I was +surrounded by as many as the hut could contain. When the first party, +however, had seen me; and asked a few questions, they retired to make +room for another company; and in this manner the hut was filled and +emptied thirteen different times. + +A little before sunset, the king sent to inform me that he was at +leisure, and wished to see me. I followed the messenger through a number +of courts surrounded with high walls, where I observed plenty of dry +grass bundled up like hay, to fodder the horses in case the town should +be invested. On entering the court in which the king was sitting, I was +astonished at the number of his attendants, and at the good order that +seemed to prevail among them; they were all seated, the fighting men on +the king's right hand, and the women and children on the left, leaving a +space between them for my passage. The king, whose name was Daisy +Koorabarri, was not to be distinguished from his subjects by any +superiority in point of dress; a bank of earth about two feet high, upon +which was spread a leopard's skin, constituted the only mark of royal +dignity. When I had seated myself upon the ground before him, and related +the various circumstances that had induced me to pass through his +country, and my reasons for soliciting his protection, he appeared +perfectly satisfied; but said it was not in his power at present to +afford me much assistance; for that all sort of communication between +Kaarta and Bambarra had been interrupted for some time past; and as +Mansong, the King of Bambarra, with his army had entered Fooladoo in his +way to Kaarta, there was but little hope of my reaching Bambarra by any +of the usual routes, inasmuch as, coming from an enemy's country, I +should certainly be plundered or taken for a spy. If his country had been +at peace, he said, I might have remained with him until a more favourable +opportunity offered; but as matters stood at present, he did not wish me +to continue in Kaarta, for fear some accident should befal me, in which +case my countrymen might say that he had murdered a white man. He would +therefore advise me to return into Kasson, and remain there until the war +should terminate, which would probably happen in the course of three or +four months; after which, if he was alive, he said, he would be glad to +see me, and if he was dead, his sons would take care of me. + +This advice was certainly well meant on the part of the king; and perhaps +I was to blame in not following it; but I reflected that the hot months +were approaching; and I dreaded the thoughts of spending the rainy season +in the interior of Africa. These considerations, and the aversion I felt +at the idea of returning without having made a greater progress in +discovery, made me determine to go forwards; and though the king could +not give me a guide to Bambarra, I begged that he would allow a man to +accompany me as near the frontiers of his kingdom as was consistent with +safety. Finding that I was determined to proceed, the king told me that +one route still remained, but that, he said, was by no means free from +danger; which was to go from Kaarta into the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar, +from whence I might pass, by a circuitous route, into Bambarra. If I +wished to follow this route, he would appoint people to conduct me to +Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then enquired very particularly +how I had been treated since I had left the Gambia, and asked in a +jocular way how many slaves I expected to carry home with me on my +return. He was about to proceed, when a man mounted on a fine Moorish +horse, which was covered with sweat and foam, entered the court, and +signifying that he had something of importance to communicate, the king +immediately took up his sandals, which is the signal to strangers to +retire. I accordingly took leave, but desired my boy to stay about the +place, in order to learn something of the intelligence that this +messenger had brought. In about an hour the boy returned, and informed me +that the Bambarra army had left Fooladoo, and was on its march towards +Kaarta; that the man I had seen, who had brought this intelligence, was +one of the scouts or watchmen employed by the king, each of whom has his +particular station, (commonly on some rising ground,) from whence he has +the best view of the country, and watches the motions of the enemy. + +In the evening the king sent me a fine sheep; which was very acceptable, +as none of us had tasted victuals during the day. Whilst we were employed +in dressing supper, evening prayers were announced; not by the call of +the priest, as usual, but by beating on drums, and blowing through large +elephants' teeth, hollowed out in such a manner as to resemble +bugle-horns; the sound is melodious, and, in my opinion, comes nearer to +the human voice than any other artificial sound. As the main body of +Daisy's army was, at this juncture, at Kemmoo, the mosques were very much +crowded; and I observed that the disciples of Mahomet composed nearly one +half of the army of Kaarta. + +Feb. 13th. At daylight I sent my horse-pistols and holsters as a present +to the king, and being very desirous to get away from a place which was +likely soon to become the seat of war, I begged the messenger to inform +the king, that I wished to depart from Kemmoo as soon as he should find +it convenient to appoint me a guide. In about an hour the king sent his +messenger to thank me for the present, and eight horsemen to conduct me +to Jarra. They told me that the king wished me to proceed to Jarra with +all possible expedition, that they might return before any thing decisive +should happen between the armies of Bambarra and Kaarta; we accordingly +departed forthwith from Kemmoo, accompanied by three of Daisy's sons, and +about two hundred horsemen, who kindly undertook to see me a little way +on my journey. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +_Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy.--Some account of the Lotus.--A youth +murdered by the Moors--interesting scene at his death.--Author passes +through Simbing.--Some particulars concerning Major Houghton,--Author +reaches Jarra--situation of the surrounding states at the period of his +arrival there, and a brief account of the war between Kaarta and +Bambarra._ + + +On the evening of the day of our departure from Kemmoo, (the king's +eldest son and great part of the horsemen having returned,) we reached a +village called Marina, where we slept. During the night some thieves +broke into the hut where I had deposited my baggage, and having cut open +one of my bundles, stole a quantity of beads, part of my clothes, and +some amber and gold; which happened to be in one of the pockets. I +complained to my protectors, but without effect. The next day (Feb. 14th) +was far advanced before we departed from Marina, and we travelled slowly, +on account of the excessive heat, until four o'clock in the afternoon, +when two Negroes were observed sitting among some thorny bushes at a +little distance from the road. The king's people, taking it for granted +that they were runaway slaves, cocked their muskets, and rode at full +speed in different directions through the bushes, in order to surround +them, and prevent their escaping. The Negroes, however, waited with great +composure until we came within bowshot of them, when each of them took +from his quiver a handful of arrows, and putting two between his teeth, +and one in his bow, waved to us with his hand to keep at a distance upon +which one of the king's people called out to the strangers to give some +account of themselves. They said that "they were natives of Toorda, a +neighbouring village, and had come to that place to gather _tomberongs_." +These are small farinaceous berries, of a yellow colour and delicious +taste, which I knew to be the fruit of the _rhamnus lotus_ of Linnaeus. +The Negroes showed us two large baskets full, which they had collected in +the course of the day. These berries are much esteemed by the natives, +who convert them into a sort of bread, by exposing them for some days to +the sun, and afterwards pounding them gently in a wooden mortar, until +the farinaceous part of the berry is separated from the stone. This meal +is then mixed with a little water, and formed into cakes; which, when +dried in the sun, resemble in colour and flavour the sweetest +gingerbread. The stones are afterwards put into a vessel of water, and +shaken about so as to separate the meal which may still adhere to them; +this communicates a sweet and agreeable taste to the water, and, with the +addition of a little pounded millet, forms a pleasant gruel called +_fondi_, which is the common breakfast in many parts of Ludamar, during +the months of February and March. The fruit is collected by spreading a +cloth upon the ground, and beating, the branches with a stick. + +The lotus is very common in all the kingdoms which I visited; but is +found in the greatest plenty on the sandy soil of Kaarta, Ludamar, and +the northern parts of Bambarra, where it is one of the most common shrubs +of the country. I had observed the same species at Gambia. The leaves of +the desert shrub are, however, much smaller; and more resembling, in that +particular, those represented in the engraving given by Desfontaines, in +the Memoires de l'Academie Royale des Sciences, 1788, p. 443. + +As this shrub is found in Tunis, and also in the Negro kingdoms, and as +it furnishes the natives of the latter with a food resembling bread, and +also with a sweet liquor, which is much relished by them, there can be +little doubt of its being the lotus mentioned by Pliny as the food of +the Lybian Lotophagi. An army may very well have been fed with the bread +I have tasted, made of the meal of the fruit, as is said by Pliny to have +been done in Lybia; and as the taste of the bread is sweet and agreeable, +it is not likely that the soldiers would complain of it. + +We arrived in the evening at the village of Toorda; when all the rest of +the king's people turned back except two, who remained with me as guides +to Jarra. + +Feb. 15th. I departed from Toorda, and about two o'clock came to a +considerable town called Funingkedy. As we approached the town the +inhabitants were much alarmed; for, as one of my guides wore a turban, +they mistook us for some Moorish banditti. This misapprehension was soon +cleared up, and we were well received by a Gambia Slatee, who resides at +this town, and at whose house we lodged. + +Feb. 16th. We were informed that a number of people would go from this +town to Jarra on the day following; and as the road was much infested by +the Moors, we resolved to stay and accompany the travellers. In the +meantime, we were told, that a few days before our arrival, most of the +Bushreens and people of property in Funingkedy had gone to Jarra, to +consult about removing their families and effects to that town, for fear +of the approaching war; and that the Moors, in their absence, had stolen +some of their cattle. + +About two o'clock, as I was lying asleep upon a bullock's hide behind the +door of the hut, I was awakened by the screams of women, and a general +clamour and confusion among the inhabitants. At first I suspected that +the Bambarrans had actually entered the town; but observing my boy upon +the top of one of the huts, I called to him to know what was the matter. +He informed me that the Moors were come a second time to steal the +cattle, and that they were now close to the town. I mounted the roof of +the hut, and observed a large herd of bullocks coming towards the town, +followed by five Moors on horseback, who drove the cattle forward with +their muskets. When they had reached the wells, which are close to the +town, the Moors selected from the herd sixteen of the finest beasts, and +drove them off at full gallop. + +During this transaction, the townspeople, to the number of five hundred, +stood collected close to the walls of the town; and when the Moors drove +the cattle away, though they passed within pistol shot of them, the +inhabitants scarcely made a show of resistance. I only saw four muskets +fired, which, being loaded with gunpowder of the Negroes' own +manufacture, did no execution. Shortly after this I observed a number of +people supporting a young man upon horseback, and conducting him slowly +towards the town. This was one of the herdsmen, who, attempting to throw +his spear, had been wounded by a shot from one of the Moors. His mother +walked on before, quite frantic with grief, clapping her hands, and +enumerating the good qualities of her son. _Ee maffo fonio_, (he never +told a lie,) said the disconsolate mother, as her wounded son was carried +in at the gate--_Ee maffo fonio abada_, (he never told a lie; no, never.) +When they had conveyed him to his hut, and laid him upon a mat, all the +spectators joined in lamenting his fate, by screaming and howling in the +most piteous manner. + +After their grief had subsided a little, I was desired to examine the +wound. I found that the ball had passed quite through his leg, having +fractured both bones a little below the knee. The poor boy was faint from +the loss of blood, and his situation withal so very precarious, that I +could not console his relations with any great hopes of his recovery. +However, to give him a possible chance, I observed to them that it was +necessary to cut off his leg above the knee. This proposal made every one +start with horror; they had never heard of such a method of cure, and +would by no means give their consent to it; indeed, they evidently +considered me as a sort of cannibal for proposing so cruel and unheard-of +an operation, which, in their opinion, would be attended with more pain +and danger than the wound itself. The patient was therefore committed to +the care of some old Bushreens, who endeavoured to secure him a passage +into paradise, by whispering in his ear some Arabic sentences, and +desiring him to repeat them. After many unsuccessful attempts, the poor +Heathen at last pronounced, _la illah el allah, Mahomet rasowl +allahi_;[9] and the disciples of the Prophet assured his mother that her +son had given sufficient evidence of his faith, and would be happy in a +future state. He died the same evening. + + [9] There is but one God, and Mahomet is his Prophet. + +Feb. 17th. My guides informed me, that in order to avoid the Moorish +banditti, it was necessary to travel in the night; we accordingly +departed from Funingkedy in the afternoon, accompanied by about thirty +people, carrying their effects with them into Ludamar, for fear of the +war. We travelled with great silence and expedition until midnight, when +we stopped in a sort of enclosure, near a small village; but the +thermometer being so low as 68°, none of the Negroes could sleep on +account of the cold. + +At daybreak on the 18th we resumed our journey, and at eight o'clock +passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar, situated in a narrow +pass between two rocky hills, and surrounded with a high wall. From this +village Major Houghton (being deserted by his Negro servants, who refused +to follow him into the Moorish country) wrote his last letter with a +pencil to Dr. Laidley. This brave but unfortunate man, having surmounted +many difficulties, had taken a northerly direction, and endeavoured to +pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where I afterwards learned the +following particulars concerning his melancholy fate. On his arrival at +Jarra he got acquainted with certain Moorish merchants who were +travelling to Tisheet (a place near the salt pits in the Great Desert, +ten days' journey to the northward) to purchase salt; and the Major, at +the expense of a musket and some tobacco, engaged them to convey him +thither. It is impossible to form any other opinion on this +determination, than that the Moors intentionally deceived him, either +with regard to the route that he wished to pursue, or the state of the +intermediate country between Jarra and Tombuctoo. Their intention +probably was to rob and leave him in the Desert. At the end of two days +he suspected their treachery, and insisted on returning to Jarra. Finding +him persist in this determination, the Moors robbed him of every thing he +possessed, and went off with their camels; the poor Major being thus +deserted, returned on foot to a watering place in possession of the +Moors, called Tarra. He had been some days without food, and the +unfeeling Moors refusing to give him any, he sunk at last under his +distresses. Whether he actually perished of hunger, or was murdered +outright by the savage Mahomedans, is not certainly known; his body was +dragged into the woods, and I was shown at a distance the spot where his +remains were left to perish. + +About four miles to the north of Simbing, we came to a small stream of +water, where we observed a number of wild horses; they were all of one +colour, and galloped away from us at any easy rate, frequently stopping +and looking back. The Negroes hunt them for food, and their flesh is much +esteemed. + +About noon we arrived at Jarra, a large town situated at the bottom of +some rocky hills. But before I proceed to describe the place itself, and +relate the various occurrences which befel me there, it will not be +improper to give my readers a brief recital of the origin of the war +which induced me to take this route; an unfortunate determination, the +immediate cause of all the misfortunes and calamities which afterwards +befel me. The recital which I propose to give in this place will prevent +interruptions hereafter. + +This war, which desolated Kaarta soon after I had left that kingdom, and +spread terror into many of the neighbouring states, arose in the +following manner. A few bullocks belonging to a frontier village of +Bambarra having been stolen by a party of Moors, were sold to the Dooty +or chief man of a town in Kaarta. The villagers claimed their cattle, and +being refused satisfaction, complained of the Dooty to their sovereign, +Mansong, King of Bambarra, who probably beheld with an eye of jealousy +the growing prosperity of Kaarta, and availed himself of this incident to +declare hostilities against that kingdom. + +With this view he sent a messenger and a party of horsemen to Daisy, King +of Kaarta, to inform him that the King of Bambarra, with nine thousand +men, would visit Kemmoo in the course of the dry season; and to desire +that he (Daisy) would direct his slaves to sweep the houses, and have +every thing ready for their accommodation. The messenger concluded this +insulting notification by presenting the king with a pair of _iron +sandals_; at the same time adding, that "until such time as Daisy had +worn out these sandals in his flight, he should never be secure from the +arrows of Bambarra." + +Daisy, having consulted with his chief men about the best means of +repelling so formidable an enemy, returned an answer of defiance, and +made a Bushreen write in Arabic, upon a piece of thin board, a sort of +proclamation, which was suspended to a tree in the public square; and a +number of aged men were sent to different places to explain it to the +common people. This proclamation called upon all the friends of Daisy to +join him immediately; but to such as had no arms, or were afraid to enter +into the war, permission was given to retire into any of the neighbouring +kingdoms; and it was added, that provided they observed a strict +neutrality, they should always be welcome to return to their former +habitations; if, however, they took any active part against Kaarta, they +had then "broken the key of their huts, and could never afterwards enter +the door." Such was the expression. + +This proclamation was very generally applauded; but many of the Kaartans, +and, amongst others, the powerful tribes of Jower and Kakaroo, availing +themselves of the indulgent clause, retired from Daisy's dominions, and +took refuge in Ludamar and Kesson. By means of these desertions, Daisy's +army was not so numerous as might have been expected; and when I was at +Kemmoo, the whole number of effective men according to report, did not +exceed four thousand; but they were men of spirit and enterprise, and +could be depended on. + +On the 22d of February, (four days after my arrival at Jarra) Mansong, +with his army, advanced towards Kemmoo; and Daisy, without hazarding a +battle, retired to Joko, a town to the north-west of Kemmoo, where he +remained three days, and then took refuge in a strong town called +Gedingooma, situated in the hilly country, and surrounded with high walls +of stone. When Daisy departed from Joko, his sons refused to follow him, +alleging that "the singing men would publish their disgrace, as soon as +it should be known that Daisy and his family had fled from Joko without +firing a gun." They were therefore left behind with a number of horsemen +to defend Joko; but, after many skirmishes, they were totally defeated, +and one of Daisy's sons taken prisoner; the remainder fled to Gedingooma, +which Daisy had stored with provisions, and where he determined to +make his final stand. + +Mansong, finding that Daisy was determined to avoid a pitched battle, +placed a strong force at Joko to watch his motions, and separating the +remainder of his army into small detachments, ordered them to overrun the +country, and seize upon the inhabitants, before they had time to escape. +These orders were executed with such promptitude, that in a few days the +whole kingdom of Kaarta became a scene of desolation. Most of the poor +inhabitants of the different towns and villages, being surprised in the +night, fell an easy prey; and their corn, and every thing that could be +useful to Daisy, was burnt and destroyed. During these transactions, +Daisy was employed in fortifying Gedingooma: this town is built in a +narrow pass between two high hills, having only two gates, one towards +Kaarta and the other towards Jaffnoo: the gate towards Kaarta was +defended by Daisy in person; and that towards Jaffnoo was committed to +the charge of his sons. When the army of Bambarra approached the town, +they made some attempts to storm it, but were always driven back with +great loss; and Mansong, finding Daisy more formidable than he expected, +resolved to cut off his supplies, and starve him into submission. He +accordingly sent all the prisoners he had taken into Bambarra, and having +collected a considerable quantity of provisions, remained with his army +two whole months in the vicinity of Gedingooma, without doing any thing +decisive. During this time, he was much harassed by sallies from the +besieged; and his stock of provisions being nearly exhausted, he sent to +Ali, the Moorish King of Ludamar, for two hundred horsemen, to enable him +to make an attack upon the north gate of the town, and give the +Bambarrans an opportunity of storming the place. Ali, though he had made +an agreement with Mansong at the commencement of the war, to afford him +assistance, now refused to fulfil his engagement; which so enraged +Mansong, that he marched part of his army to Funingkedy, with a view to +surprise the camp of Benowm; but the Moors having received intelligence +of his design, fled to the northward; and Mansong, without attempting any +thing farther, returned to Sego. This happened while I was myself in +captivity in Ali's camp, as will hereafter be seen. + +As the King of Kaarta had now got quit of his most formidable antagonist, +it might have been hoped that peace would have been restored to his +dominions; but an extraordinary incident involved him, immediately +afterwards, in hostilities with Kasson; the king of which country dying +about that time, the succession was disputed by his two sons. The younger +(Sambo Sego, my old acquaintance) prevailed, and drove his brother from +the country. He fled to Gedingooma; and, being pursued thither, Daisy, +who had lived in constant friendship with both the brothers, refused to +deliver him up; at the same time declaring that he would not support his +claim, nor any way interfere in the quarrel. Sambo Sego, elated with +success, and proud of the homage that was paid him as sovereign of +Kasson, was much displeased with Daisy's conduct, and joined with some +disaffected fugitive Kaartans in a plundering expedition against him. +Daisy, who little expected such a visit, had sent a number of people to +Joko, to plant corn, and collect together such cattle as they might find +straying in the woods, in order to supply his army. All these people fell +into the hands of Sambo Sego, who carried them to Kooniakary, and +afterwards sent them in caravans, to be sold to the French at Fort-Louis, +on the river Senegal. + +This attack was soon retaliated; for Daisy, who was now in distress for +want of provisions, thought he was justified in supplying himself from +the plunder of Kasson. He accordingly took with him eight hundred of his +best men; and, marching secretly through the woods, surprised in the +night three large villages near Kooniakary, in which many of his +traitorous subjects, who were in Sambo's expedition, had taken up their +residence; all these, and indeed all the able men that fell into Daisy's +hands, were immediately put to death. + +After this expedition, Daisy began to indulge the hopes of peace; many of +his discontented subjects had returned to their allegiance, and were +repairing the towns which had been desolated by the war; the rainy season +was approaching; and every thing wore a favourable appearance, when he +was suddenly attacked from a different quarter. + +The Jowers, Kakaroos, and some other Kaartans, who had deserted from him +at the commencement of the war, and had shown a decided preference to +Mansong and his army during the whole campaign, were now afraid or +ashamed to ask forgiveness of Daisy, and being very powerful in +themselves, joined together to make war upon him. They solicited the +Moors to assist them in their rebellion, (as will appear hereafter,) and, +having collected a considerable army, they plundered a large village +belonging to Daisy, and carried off a number of prisoners. + +Daisy immediately prepared to revenge this insult; but the Jowers, and +indeed almost all the Negro inhabitants of Ludamar, deserted their towns, +and fled to the eastward; and the rainy season put an end to the war of +Kaarta, which had enriched a few individuals, but destroyed the happiness +of thousands. + +Such was the state of affairs among the nations in the neighbourhood of +Jarra, soon after the period of my arrival there. I shall now proceed, +after giving some description of that place, with the detail of events as +they occurred. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +_Some account of Jarra, and the Moorish inhabitants.--The Author applies +for and obtains permission from Ali, the Moorish chief or sovereign of +Ludamar, to pass through his territories.--Departs from Jarra, and +arrives at Deena.--Ill treated by the Moors.--Proceeds to Sampaka.--Finds +a Negro who makes gunpowder.--Continues his journey to Samee, where he is +seized by some Moors, who are sent for that purpose by Ali.--Is conveyed +a prisoner to the Moorish camp at Benowm, on the borders of the Great +Desert._ + + +The town of Jarra is of considerable extent; the houses are built of clay +and stone intermixed; the clay answering the purpose of mortar. It is +situated in the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar; but the major part of the +inhabitants are Negroes, from the borders of the southern states, who +prefer a precarious protection under the Moors--which they purchase by a +tribute--rather than continue exposed to their predatory hostilities. The +tribute they pay is considerable; and they manifest towards their Moorish +superiors the most unlimited obedience and submission, and are treated by +them with the utmost indignity and contempt. The Moors of this, and the +other states adjoining the country of the Negroes, resemble in their +persons the Mulattoes of the West Indies to so great a degree, as not +easily to be distinguished from them; and in truth, the present +generation seem to be a mixed race between the Moors (properly so called) +of the North, and the Negroes of the South, possessing many of the worst +qualities of both nations. + +Of the origin of these Moorish tribes, as distinguished from the +inhabitants of Barbary, from whom they are divided by the Great Desert, +nothing farther seems to be known than what is related by John Leo, the +African; whose account may be abridged as follows. + +Before the Arabian Conquest, about the middle of the seventh century, all +the inhabitants of Africa, whether they were descended from Numidians, +Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, or Goths, were comprehended +under the general name of _Mauri_ or Moors. All these nations were +converted to the religion of Mahomet, during the Arabian empire under the +Caliphs. About this time many of the Numidian tribes, who led a wandering +life in the Desert, and supported themselves upon the produce of their +cattle, retired southward across the Great Desert, to avoid the fury of +the Arabians: and by one of those tribes, says Leo, (that of Zanhaga,) +were discovered and conquered the Negro nations on the Niger. By the +Niger is here undoubtedly meant the river of Senegal, which in the +Mandingo language is called _Bafing_, or the Black River. + +To what extent these people are now spread over the African continent it +is difficult to ascertain; There is reason to believe, that their +dominion stretches from west to east, in a narrow line or belt, from the +mouth of the Senegal (on the northern side of that river) to the confines +of Abyssinia. They are a subtle and treacherous race of people; and take +every opportunity of cheating and plundering the credulous and +unsuspecting Negroes. But their manners and general habits of life will +be best explained, as incidents occur, in the course of my narrative. + +On my arrival at Jarra, I obtained a lodging at the house of Daman Jumma, +a Gambia slatee. This man had formerly borrowed goods from Dr. Laidley, +who had given me an order for the money, to the amount of six slaves; and +though the debt was of five years standing, he readily acknowledged it, +and promised me what money he could raise. He was afraid, he said, in his +present situation, he could not pay more than two slaves' value. He gave +me his assistance, however, in exchanging my beads and amber for gold, +which was a more portable article, and more easily concealed from the +Moors. + +The difficulties we had already encountered, the unsettled state of the +country, and, above all, the savage and overbearing deportment of the +Moors, had so completely frightened my attendants, that they declared +they would rather relinquish every claim to reward, than proceed one step +farther to the eastward. Indeed, the danger they incurred of being seized +by the Moors, and sold into slavery, became every day more apparent; and +I could not condemn their apprehensions. In this situation, deserted by +my attendants, and reflecting that my retreat was cut off by the war +behind me, and that a Moorish country of ten days' journey lay before me, +I applied to Daman to obtain permission from Ali, the chief or sovereign +of Ludamar, that I might pass through his country unmolested into +Bambarra; and I hired one of Daman's slaves to accompany me thither, as +soon as such permission should be obtained. A messenger was dispatched to +Ali, who at this time was encamped near Benowm; and as a present was +necessary in order to insure success, I sent him five garments of cotton +cloth, which I purchased of Daman for one of my fowling-pieces. Fourteen +days elapsed in settling this affair; but, on the evening of the 26th of +February, one of Ali's slaves arrived with directions, as he pretended, +to conduct me in safety as far as Goomba; and told me I was to pay him +one garment of blue cotton cloth for his attendance. My faithful boy +observing that I was about to proceed without him, resolved to accompany +me; and told me, that though he wished me to turn back, he never had +entertained any serious thoughts of deserting me, but had been advised to +it by Johnson, with a view to induce me to return immediately for Gambia. + +Feb. 27th. I delivered most of my papers to Johnson, to convey them to +Gambia as soon as possible, reserving a duplicate for myself, in case of +accidents. I likewise left in Daman's possession a bundle of clothes and +other things that were not absolutely necessary; for I wished to diminish +my baggage as much as possible, that the Moors might have fewer +inducements to plunder us. + +Things being thus adjusted, we departed from Jarra in the forenoon, and +slept at Troomgoomba, a small walled village, inhabited by a mixture of +Negroes and Moors. On the day following (Feb. 28th) we reached Quira; and +on the 29th, after a toilsome journey over a sandy country, we came to +Compe, a watering place belonging to the Moors; from whence, on the +morning following, we proceeded to Deena, a large town, and, like Jarra, +built of stone and clay. The Moors are here in greater proportion to the +Negroes than at Jarra. They assembled round the hut of the Negro where I +lodged, and treated me with the greatest insolence: they hissed, shouted, +and abused me; they even spit in my face with a view to irritate me, and +afford them a pretext for seizing my baggage. But, finding such insults +had not the desired effect, they had recourse to the final and decisive +argument, that I was a Christian, and of course that my property was +lawful plunder to the followers of Mahomet. They accordingly opened my +bundles, and robbed me of every thing they fancied. My attendants, +finding that every body could rob me with impunity, insisted on returning +to Jarra. + +The day following (March 2d) I endeavoured, by all the means in my power, +to prevail upon my people to go on; but they still continued obstinate; +and having reason to fear some further insult from the fanatic Moors, I +resolved to proceed alone. Accordingly, the next morning about two +o'clock, I departed from Deena. It was moonlight; but the roaring of the +wild beasts made it necessary to proceed with caution. + +When I had reached a piece of rising ground about half a mile from the +town, I heard somebody halloo, and looking back, saw my faithful boy +running after me. He informed me, that Ali's man had gone back to Benowm, +and that Daman's Negro was about to depart for Jarra; but he said he had +no doubt, if I would stop a little, that he could persuade the latter to +accompany us. I waited accordingly, and in about an hour the boy returned +with the Negro; and we continued travelling over a sandy country, covered +chiefly with the _Asclepias giganteo_, until mid-day, when we came to a +number of deserted huts; and seeing some appearances of water at a +distance, I sent the boy to fill a soofroo; but as he was examining the +place for water, the roaring of a lion, that was probably on the same +pursuit, induced the frightened boy to return in haste; and we submitted +patiently to the disappointment. In the afternoon we reached a town +inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, called Samamingkoos. + +Next morning (March 4th) we set out for Sampaka, which place we reached +about two o'clock. On the road we observed immense quantities of locusts; +the trees were quite black with them. These insects devour every +vegetable that comes in their way, and in a short time completely strip a +tree of its leaves. The noise of their excrement falling upon the leaves +and withered grass, very much resembles a shower of rain. When a tree is +shaken or struck, it is astonishing to see what a cloud of them will fly +off. In their flight they yield to the current of the wind, which at this +season of the year is always from the north-east. Should the wind shift, +it is difficult to conceive where they could collect food, as the whole +of their course was marked with desolation. + +Sampaka is a large town, and, when the Moors and Bambarrans were at war, +was thrice attacked by the former: but they were driven off with great +loss, though the King of Bambarra was afterwards obliged to give up this, +and all the other towns as far as Goomba, in order to obtain a peace. +Here I lodged at the house of a Negro who practised the art of making +gunpowder. He showed me a bag of nitre, very white, but the crystals were +much smaller than common. They procure it in considerable quantities from +the ponds which are filled in the rainy season, and to which the cattle +resort for coolness during the heat of the day. When the water is +evaporated, a white efflorescence is observed on the mud, which the +natives collect and purify in such a manner as to answer their purpose. +The Moors supply them with sulphur from the Mediterranean; and the +process is completed by pounding the different articles together in a +wooden mortar. The grains are very unequal, and the sound of its +explosion is by no means so sharp as that produced by European gunpowder. + +March 5th. We departed from Sampaka at daylight. About noon we stopped a +little at a village called Dungali; and in the evening arrived at Dalli. +We saw upon the road two large herds of camels feeding. When the Moors +turn their camels to feed, they tie up one of their fore legs, to prevent +their straying. This happened to be a feast day at Dalli, and the people +were dancing before the Dooty's house. But when they were informed that a +white man was come into the town, they left off dancing, and came to the +place where I lodged, walking in regular order, two and two, with the +music before them. They play upon a sort of flute; but instead of blowing +into a hole in the side, they blow obliquely over the end, which is half +shut by a thin piece of wood: they govern the holes on the side with +their fingers, and play some simple and very plaintive airs. They +continued to dance and sing until midnight; during which time I was +surrounded by so great a crowd, as made it necessary for me to satisfy +their curiosity, by sitting still. + +March 6th. We stopt here this morning because some of the townspeople, +who were going for Goomba on the day following, wished to accompany us: +but in order to avoid the crowd of people which usually assembled in the +evening, we went to a Negro village to the east of Dalli, called Samee, +where we were kindly received by the hospitable Dooty, who on this +occasion killed two fine sheep, and invited his friends to come and feast +with him. + +March 7th. Our landlord was so proud of the honour of entertaining a +white man, that he insisted on my staying with him and his friends until +the cool of the evening, when he said he would conduct me to the next +village. As I was now within two days' journey of Goomba, I had no +apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the invitation. I +spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor Negroes: their company +was the more acceptable, as the gentleness of their manners presented a +striking contrast to the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors. They +enlivened their conversation by drinking a fermented liquor made from +corn; the same sort of beer that I have described in a former chapter; +and better I never tasted in Great Britain. + +In the midst of this harmless festivity, I flattered myself that all +danger from the Moors was over. Fancy had already placed me on the banks +of the Niger, and presented to my imagination a thousand delightful +scenes in my future progress, when a party of Moors unexpectedly entered +the hut, and dispelled the golden dream. They came, they said, by Ali's +orders, to convey me to his camp at Benowm. If I went peaceably, they +told me I had nothing to fear; but if I refused, they had orders to bring +me by force. I was struck dumb by surprise and terror, which the Moors +observing, endeavoured to calm my apprehensions, by repeating the +assurance that I had nothing to fear. Their visit, they added, was +occasioned by the curiosity of Ali's wife, _Fatima_, who had heard so +much about Christians, that she was very anxious to see one: as soon as +her curiosity should be satisfied, they had no doubt, they said, that Ali +would give me a handsome present, and send a person to conduct me to +Bambarra. Finding entreaty and resistance equally fruitless, I prepared +to follow the messengers, and took leave of my landlord and his company +with great reluctance. Accompanied by my faithful boy, (for Daman's slave +made his escape on seeing the Moors,) we reached Dalli in the evening, +where we were strictly watched by the Moors during the night. + +March 8th. We were conducted by a circuitous path through the woods to +Dangali, where we slept. + +March 9th. We continued our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at +Sampaka. On the road we saw a party of Moors, well armed, who told us +that they were hunting for a runaway slave; but the townspeople informed +us, that a party of Moors had attempted to steal some cattle from the +town in the morning, but were repulsed; and on their describing the +persons, we were satisfied that they were the same banditti that we had +seen in the woods. + +Next morning (March loath) we set out for Samamingkoos. On the road we +overtook a woman and two boys, with an ass; she informed us that she was +going for Bambarra, but had been stopped on the road by a party of Moors, +who had taken most of her clothes, and some gold from her: and that she +would be under the necessity of returning to Deena, till the fast moon +was over. The same evening the new moon was seen, which ushered in the +month Rhamadan. Large fires were made in different parts of the town, and +a greater quantity of victuals than usual dressed upon the occasion. + +March 11th. By daylight the Moors were in readiness; but as I had +suffered much from thirst on the road, I made my boy fill a soofroo of +water for my own use; for the Moors assured me that they should not taste +either meat or drink until sunset. However, I found that the excessive +heat of the sun, and the dust we raised in travelling, overcame their +scruples, and made my soofroo a very useful part of our baggage. On our +arrival at Deena, I went to pay my respects to one of Ali's sons. I found +him sitting in a low hut, with five or six more of his companions, +washing their hands and feet, and frequently taking water into their +mouths, gargling, and spitting it out again. I was no sooner seated, than +he handed me a double-barrelled gun, and told me to dye the stock of a +blue colour, and repair one of the locks. I found great difficulty in +persuading him that I knew nothing about the matter. However, says he, if +you cannot repair the gun, you shall give me some knives and scissors +immediately; and when my boy, who acted as interpreter, assured him that +I had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a musket that stood by +him, cocked it, and putting the muzzle close to the boy's ear, would +certainly have shot him dead upon the spot, had not the Moors wrested the +musket from him and made signs for us to retreat. The boy, being +terrified at this treatment, attempted to make his escape in the night; +but was prevented by the vigilance of the Moors, who guarded us with +strict attention; and at night always went to sleep by the door of the +hut, in such a situation that it was almost impossible to pass, without +stepping upon them. + +March 12th. We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about nine o'clock +came to a Korree, whence the Moors were preparing to depart to the +southward on account of the scarcity of water; here we filled our +soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy country, covered with +small stunted shrubs, until about one o'clock, when the heat of the sun +obliged us to stop. But our water being expended, we could not prudently +remain longer than a few minutes to collect a little gum, which is an +excellent succedaneum for water; as it keeps the mouth moist, and allays, +for a time, the pain in the throat. + +About five o'clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of Ali. It +presented to the eye a great number of dirty looking tents, scattered +without order, over a large space of ground; and among the tents appeared +large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached the skirts of the +camp, a little before sunset, and, with much entreaty, procured a little +water. My arrival was no sooner observed, than the people who drew water +at the wells threw down their buckets; those in the tents mounted their +horses, and men, women, and children, came running or galloping towards +me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd, that I could scarcely +move; one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me +to examine my waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called out, _la illah el +allah Mahomet rasowl allahi_,[10] and signified, in a threatening manner, +that I must repeat those words. We reached at length the king's tent, +where we found a great number of people, men and women, assembled. Ali +was sitting upon a black leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from his +upper lip; a female attendant holding up a looking-glass before him. He +appeared to be an old man, of the Arab cast, with a long white beard; and +he had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with attention, and +inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic: being answered in the +negative, he appeared much surprised, and continued silent. The +surrounding attendants, and especially the ladies, were abundantly more +inquisitive: they asked a thousand questions, inspected every part of my +apparel, searched my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, +and display the whiteness of my skin: they even counted my toes and +fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human being. In a +little time the priest announced evening prayers; but before the people +departed, the Moor, who had acted as interpreter, informed me that Ali +was about to present me with something to eat; and looking round, I +observed some boys bringing a wild hog, which they tied to one of the +tent strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill and dress it for supper. +Though I was very hungry, I did not think it prudent to eat any part of +an animal so much detested by the Moors, and therefore told him that I +never eat such food. They then untied the hog in hopes that it would run +immediately at me; for they believe that a great enmity subsists between +hogs and Christians; but in this they were disappointed, for the animal +no sooner regained his liberty, than he began to attack indiscriminately +every person that came in his way, and at last took shelter under the +couch upon which the king was sitting. The assembly being thus dissolved, +I was conducted to the tent of Ali's chief slave, but was not permitted +to enter, nor allowed to touch any thing belonging to it. I requested +something to eat, and a little boiled corn, with salt and water, was at +length sent me in a wooden bowl; and a mat was spread upon the sand +before the tent, on which I passed the night, surrounded by the curious +multitude. + + [10] See page 87 [Footnote 9. Transcriber.]. + +At sunrise, Ali, with a few attendants, came on horseback to visit me, +and signified that he had provided a hut for me, where I would be +sheltered from the sun. I was accordingly conducted thither, and found +the hut comparatively cool and pleasant. It was constructed of corn +stalks set up on end, in the form of a square, with a flat roof of the +same materials, supported by forked sticks; to one of which was tied the +wild hog before mentioned. This animal had certainly been placed there by +Ali's order, out of derision to a Christian; and I found it a very +disagreeable inmate, as it drew together a number of boys, who amused +themselves by beating it with sticks, until they had so irritated the hog +that it ran and bit at every person within its reach. + +I was no sooner seated in this my new habitation, than the Moors +assembled in crowds to behold me; but I found it rather a troublesome +levee, for I was obliged to take off one of my stockings, and show them +my foot, and even to take off my jacket and waistcoat, to show them how +my clothes were put on and off: they were much delighted with the curious +contrivance of buttons. All this was to be repeated to every succeeding +visitor; for such as had already seen these wonders insisted on their +friends seeing the same; and in this manner I was employed, dressing and +undressing, buttoning and unbuttoning, from noon to night. About eight +o'clock, Ali sent me for supper some kouskous and salt and water, which +was very acceptable, being the only victuals I had tasted since morning. + +I observed that, in the night, the Moors kept regular watch, and +frequently looked into the hut, to see if I was asleep, and if it was +quite dark, they would light a wisp of grass. About two o'clock in the +morning, a Moor entered the hut, probably with a view to steal something, +or perhaps to murder me: and groping about, he laid his hand upon my +shoulder. As night visitors were at best but suspicious characters, I +sprang up the moment he laid his hand upon me; and the Moor, in his haste +to get off, stumbled over my boy, and fell with his face upon the wild +hog, which returned the attack by biting the Moor's arm. The screams of +this man alarmed the people in the king's tent, who immediately +conjectured that I had made my escape, and a number of them mounted their +horses, and prepared to pursue me. I observed upon this occasion that Ali +did not sleep in his own tent, but came galloping upon a white horse from +a small tent at a considerable distance: indeed, the tyrannical and cruel +behaviour of this man made him so jealous of every person around him, +that even his own slaves and domestics knew not where he slept. When the +Moors had explained to him the cause of this outcry, they all went away +and I was permitted to sleep quietly until morning. + +March 13th. With the returning day commenced the same round of insult and +irritation: the boys assembled to beat the hog, and the men and women to +plague the Christian. It is impossible for me to describe the behaviour +of a people who study mischief as a science, and exult in the miseries +and misfortunes of their fellow-creatures. It is sufficient to observe +that the rudeness, ferocity, and fanaticism, which distinguish the Moors +from the rest of man-kind, found here a proper subject whereon to +exercise their propensities. I was a _stranger_, I was _unprotected_, and +I was a _Christian_; each of these circumstances is sufficient to drive +every spark of humanity from the heart of a Moor; but when all of them, +as in my case, were combined in the same person, and a suspicion +prevailed withal, that I had come as a _spy_ into the country, the reader +will easily imagine that, in such a situation, I had every thing to fear. +Anxious, however, to conciliate favour, and if possible, to afford the +Moors no pretence for ill-treating me, I readily complied with every +command, and patiently bore every insult; but never did any period of my +life pass away so heavily; from sunrise to sunset was I obliged to +suffer, with an unruffled countenance, the insults of the rudest savages +on earth. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +_Various occurrences during the Author's confinement at Benowm--is +visited by some Moorish ladies.--A funeral and wedding.--The Author +receives an extraordinary present from the bride.--Other circumstances +illustrative of the Moorish character and manners._ + + +The Moors, though very indolent themselves, are rigid task-masters, and +keep every person under them in full employment. My boy Demba was sent to +the woods to collect withered grass for Ali's horses; and after a variety +of projects concerning myself, they at last found out an employment for +me; this was no other than the respectable office of _barber_. I was to +make my first exhibition in this capacity in the royal presence, and to +be honoured with the task of shaving the head of the young prince of +Ludamar. I accordingly seated myself upon the sand, and the boy with some +hesitation sat down beside me. A small razor, about three inches long, +was put into my hand, and I was ordered to proceed; but whether from my +own want of skill, or the improper shape of the instrument, I +unfortunately made a slight incision in the boy's head, at the very +commencement of the operation; and the king, observing the awkward manner +in which I held the razor, concluded that his son's head was in very +improper hands, and ordered me to resign the razor, and walk out of the +tent. This I considered as a very fortunate circumstance; for I had laid +it down as a rule, to make myself as useless and insignificant as +possible, as the only means of recovering my liberty. + +March 18th. Four Moors arrived from Jarra with Johnson my interpreter, +having seized him before he had received any intimation of my +confinement: and bringing with them a bundle of clothes that I had left +at Daman Jumma's house, for my use in case I should return by the way of +Jarra. Johnson was led into Ali's tent and examined; the bundle was +opened, and I was sent for to explain the use of the different articles. +I was happy, however, to find that Johnson had committed my papers to the +charge of one of Daman's wives. When I had satisfied Ali's curiosity +respecting the different articles of apparel, the bundle was again tied +up, and put in a large cow-skin bag, that stood in a corner of the tent. +The same evening Ali sent three of his people to inform me, that there +were many thieves in the neighbourhood, and that to prevent the rest of +my things from being stolen, it was necessary to convey them all into his +tent. My clothes, instruments, and every thing that belonged to me, were +accordingly carried away; and though the heat and dust made clean linen +very necessary and refreshing, I could not procure a single shirt out of +the small stock I had brought along with me. Ali was however +disappointed, by not finding among my effects the quantity of gold and +amber that he expected; but to make sure of every thing, he sent the same +people on the morning following, to examine whether I had any thing +concealed about my person. They, with their usual rudeness, searched +every part of my apparel, and stripped me of all my gold, amber, my +watch, and one of my pocket compasses; I had fortunately, in the night, +buried the other compass in the sand; and this, with the clothes I had +on, was all that the tyranny of Ali had now left me. + +The gold and amber were highly gratifying to Moorish avarice, but the +pocket compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity. Ali was +very desirous to be informed, why that small piece of iron, the needle, +always pointed to the Great Desert, and I found myself somewhat puzzled +to answer the question. To have pleaded my ignorance, would have created +a suspicion that I wished to conceal the real truth from him; I therefore +told him, that my mother resided far beyond the sands of Sahara, and that +whilst she was alive, the piece of iron would always point that way, and +serve as a guide to conduct me to her, and that if she was dead, it would +point to her grave. Ali now looked at the compass with redoubled +amazement; turned it round and round repeatedly; but observing that it +always pointed the same way, he took it up with great caution and +returned it to me, manifesting that he thought there was something of +magic in it, and that he was afraid of keeping so dangerous an instrument +in his possession. + +March 20th. This morning a council of chief men was held in Ali's tent +respecting me; their decisions, though they were all unfavourable to me, +were differently related by different persons. Some said that they +intended to put me to death; others, that I was only to lose my right +hand: but the most probable account was that which I received from Ali's +own son, a boy about nine years of age, who came to me in the evening, +and, with much concern, informed me that his uncle had persuaded his +father to put out my eyes, which they said resembled those of a cat, and +that all the Bushreens had approved of this measure. His father, however, +he said, would not put the sentence into execution until Fatima the +queen, who was at present in the north, had seen me. + +March 21st. Anxious to know my destiny, I went to the king early in the +morning: and as a number of Bushreens were assembled, I thought this a +favourable opportunity of discovering their intentions. I therefore began +by begging his permission to return to Jarra, which was flatly refused; +his wife, he said, had not yet seen me, and I must stay until she came to +Benowm, after which I should be at liberty to depart; and that my horse, +which had been taken away from me the day after I arrived should be again +restored to me. Unsatisfactory as this answer was, I was forced to appear +pleased: and as there was little hopes of making my escape, at this +season of the year, on account of the excessive heat, and the total want +of water in the woods, I resolved to wait patiently until the rains had +set in, or until some more favourable opportunity should present +itself;--but _hope deferred maketh the heart sick_. This tedious +procrastination from day to day, and the thoughts of travelling through +the Negro kingdoms in the rainy season, which was now fast approaching, +made me very melancholy; and having passed a restless night, I found +myself attacked, in the morning, by a smart fever. I had wrapped myself +close up in my cloak, with a view to induce perspiration, and was asleep +when a party of Moors entered the hut, and with their usual rudeness +pulled the cloak from me. I made signs to them that I was sick, and +wished much to sleep; but I solicited in vain; my distress was matter of +sport to them, and they endeavoured to heighten it by every means in +their power. This studied and degrading insolence, to which I was +constantly exposed, was one of the bitterest ingredients in the cup of +captivity; and often made life itself a burthen to me. In those +distressing moments I have frequently envied the situation of the slave, +who, amidst all his calamities, could still possess the enjoyment of his +own thoughts; a happiness to which I had, for some time, been a stranger. +Wearied out with such continual insults, and perhaps a little peevish +from the fever, I trembled lest my passion might unawares overleap the +bounds of prudence, and spur me to some sudden act of resentment, when +death must be the inevitable consequence. In this perplexity, I left my +hut, and walked to some shady trees at a little distance from the camp, +where I lay down. But even here persecution followed me; and solitude was +thought too great an indulgence for a distressed Christian. Ali's son, +with a number of horsemen, came galloping to the place, and ordered me to +rise and follow them. I begged they would allow me to remain where I was, +if it was only for a few hours; but they paid little attention to what I +said; and after a few threatening words, one of them pulled out a pistol +from a leather bag, that was fastened to the pummel of his saddle, and +presenting it towards me, snapped it twice. He did this with so much +indifference, that I really doubted whether the pistol was loaded; he +cocked it a third time, and was striking the flint with a piece of steel, +when I begged them to desist, and returned with them to the camp. When we +entered Ali's tent, we found him much out of humour. He called for the +Moor's pistol, and amused himself for some time with opening and shutting +the pan; at length, taking up his powder horn, he fresh primed it; and +turning round to me with a menacing look, said something in Arabic, which +I did not understand. I desired my boy, who was sitting before the tent, +to inquire what offence I had committed; when I was informed that having +gone out of the camp without Ali's permission, they suspected that I had +some design of making my escape; and that, in future, if I was seen +without the skirts of the camp, orders had been given that I should be +shot by the first person that observed me. + +In the afternoon the horizon, to the eastward, was thick and hazy, and +the Moors prognosticated a sand wind; which accordingly commenced on the +morning following, and lasted, with slight intermissions, for two days. +The force of the wind was not in itself very great; it was what a seaman +would have denominated a _stiff breeze_; but the quantity of sand and +dust carried before it was such as to darken the whole atmosphere. It +swept along from east to west, in a thick and constant stream, and the +air was at times so dark and full of sand, that it was difficult to +discern the neighbouring tents. As the Moors always dress their victuals +in the open air, this sand fell in great plenty among the kouskous; it +readily adhered to the skin, when moistened by perspiration, and formed a +cheap and universal hair powder. The Moors wrap a cloth round their face +to prevent them from inhaling the sand, and always turn their backs to +the wind when they look up, to prevent the sand falling into their eyes. + +About this time, all the women of the camp had their feet, and the ends +of their fingers, stained of a dark saffron colour. I could never +ascertain whether this was done from motives of religion, or by way of +ornament. The curiosity of the Moorish ladies had been very troublesome +to me ever since my arrival at Benowm; and on the evening of the 25th, +(whether from the instigation of others, or impelled by their own +ungovernable curiosity, or merely out of frolic, I cannot affirm,) a +party of them came into my hut, and gave me plainly to understand that +the object of their visit was to ascertain, by actual inspection, whether +the rite of circumcision extended to the Nazarenes (Christians) as well +as to the followers of Mahomet. The reader will easily judge of my +surprise at this unexpected declaration; and in order to avoid the +proposed scrutiny, I thought it best to treat the business jocularly. I +observed to them, that it was not customary in my country to give ocular +demonstration in such cases before so many beautiful women; but that if +all of them would retire, except the young lady to whom I pointed, +(selecting the youngest and handsomest,) I would satisfy her curiosity. +The ladies enjoyed the jest, and went away laughing heartily; and the +young damsel herself, to whom I had given the preference, (though she did +not avail herself of the privilege of inspection,) seemed no way +displeased at the compliment; for she soon afterwards sent me some meal +and milk for my supper. + +March 28th. This morning a large herd of cattle arrived from the +eastward; and one of the drivers, to whom Ali had lent my horse, came +into my hut with the leg of an antelope as a present, and told me that my +horse was standing before Ali's tent. In a little time Ali sent one of +his slaves to inform me, that, in the afternoon, I must be in readiness +to ride out with him, as he intended to show me to some of his women. + +About four o'clock, Ali, with six of his courtiers, came riding to my +hut, and told me to follow them. I readily complied. But here a new +difficulty occurred; the Moors, accustomed to a loose and easy dress, +could not reconcile themselves to the appearance of my _nankeen +breeches_, which they said were not only inelegant, but, on account of +their tightness, very indecent; and as this was a visit to ladies, Ali +ordered my boy to bring out the loose cloak which I had always worn since +my arrival at Benowm, and told me to wrap it close round me. We visited +the tents of four different ladies, at every one of which I was presented +with a bowl of milk and water. All these ladies were remarkably +corpulent, which is considered here as the highest mark of beauty. They +were very inquisitive, and examined my hair and skin with great +attention; but affected to consider me as a sort of inferior being to +themselves, and would knit their brows, and seemed to shudder, when they +looked at the whiteness of my skin. In the course of this evening's +excursion, my dress and appearance afforded infinite mirth to the +company, who galloped round me as if they were baiting a wild animal; +twirling their muskets round their heads, and exhibiting various feats of +activity and horsemanship, seemingly to display their superior prowess +over a miserable captive. + +The Moors are certainly very good horsemen. They ride without fear; their +saddles being high before and behind, afford them a very secure seat; and +if they chance to fall, the whole country is so soft and sandy, that they +are very seldom hurt. Their greatest pride, and one of their principal +amusements, is to put the horse to his full speed, and then stop him with +a sudden jerk, so as frequently to bring him down upon his haunches. Ali +always rode upon a milk-white horse, with its tail dyed red. He never +walked, unless when he went to say his prayers; and even in the night, +two or three horses were always kept ready saddled, at a little distance +from his own tent. The Moors set a very high value upon their horses; for +it is by their superior fleetness, that they are enabled to make so many +predatory excursions into the Negro countries. They feed them three or +four times a day, and generally give them a large quantity of sweet milk +in the evening, which the horses appear to relish very much. + +April 3d. This forenoon a child, which had been some time sickly, died in +the next tent; and the mother and relations immediately began the death +howl. They were joined by a number of female visitors, who came on +purpose to assist at this melancholy concert. I had no opportunity of +seeing the burial, which is generally performed secretly in the dusk of +the evening, and frequently at only a few yards distance from the tent. +Over the grave, they plant one particular shrub; and no stranger is +allowed to pluck a leaf, or even to touch it; so great a veneration have +they for the dead. + +April 7th. About four o'clock in the afternoon, a whirlwind passed +through the camp with such violence that it overturned three tents, and +blew down one side of my hut. These whirlwinds come from the Great +Desert, and at this season of the year are so common, that I have seen +five or six of them at one time. They carry up quantities of sand to an +amazing height, which resemble, at a distance, so many moving pillars of +smoke. + +The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, makes the +air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed me of my thermometer, I had no +means of forming a comparative judgment; but in the middle of the day, +when the beams of the vertical sun are seconded by the scorching wind +from the Desert, the ground is frequently heated to such a degree, as not +to be borne by the naked foot; even the Negro slaves will not run from +one tent to another without their sandals. At this time of the day, the +Moors lie stretched at length in their tents, either asleep, or unwilling +to move; and I have often felt the wind so hot, that I could not hold my +hand in the current of air, which came through the crevices of my hut, +without feeling sensible pain. + +April 8th. This day the wind blew from the south-west, and in the night +there was a heavy shower of rain accompanied with thunder and lightning. + +April 10th. In the evening the Tabala, or large drum, was beat to +announce a wedding, which was held at one of the neighbouring tents. A +great number of people of both sexes assembled, but without that mirth +and hilarity which take place at a Negro wedding: here was neither +singing nor dancing, nor any other amusement that I could perceive. A +woman was beating the drum, and the other women joining at times like a +chorus, by setting up a shrill scream; and at the same time, moving their +tongues from one side of the mouth to the other with great celerity. I +was soon tired, and had returned into my hut, where I was sitting almost +asleep, when an old woman entered, with a wooden bowl in her hand, and +signified that she had brought me a present from the bride. Before I +could recover from the surprise which this message created, the woman +discharged the contents of the bowl full in my face. Finding that It was +the same sort of holy water, with which, among the Hottentots, a priest +is said to sprinkle a new married couple, I began to suspect that the old +lady was actuated by mischief or malice; but she gave me seriously to +understand, that it was a nuptial benediction from the bride's own +person; and which, on such occasions, is always received by the young +unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished favour. This being the case, I +wiped my face, and sent my acknowledgments to the lady. The wedding drum +continued to beat, and the women to sing, or rather whistle, all night. +About nine in the morning, the bride was brought in state from her +mother's tent, attended by a number of women who carried her tent, (a +present from the husband,) some bearing up the poles, others holding by +the strings; and in this manner they marched, whistling as formerly, +until they came to the place appointed for her residence, where they +pitched the tent. The husband followed, with a number of men leading four +bullocks, which they tied to the tent strings; and having killed another, +and distributed the beef among the people, the ceremony was concluded. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +_Occurrences at the camp continued.--Information collected by the Author +concerning Houssa and Tombuctoo; and the situation of the latter.--The +route described from Morocco to Benowm.--The Author's distress from +hunger--Ali removes his camp to the northward,--The Author is carried +prisoner to the new encampment, and is presented to Queen Fatima.--Great +distress from want of water_. + + +One whole month had now elapsed since I was led into captivity; during +which time each returning day brought me fresh distresses. I watched the +lingering course of the sun with anxiety, and blessed his evening beams +as they shed a yellow lustre along the sandy floor of my hut; for it was +then that my oppressors left me, and allowed me to pass the sultry night +in solitude and reflection. + +About midnight a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, was brought +for me and my two attendants. This was our common fare, and it was all +that was allowed us, to allay the cravings of hunger, and support nature +for the whole of the following day: for it is to be observed, that this +was the Mahomedan Lent, and as the Moors keep the fast with a religious +strictness, they thought it proper to compel me, though a Christian, to a +similar observance. Time, however, somewhat reconciled me to my +situation: I found that I could bear hunger and thirst better than I +expected; and at length I endeavoured to beguile the tedious hours by +learning to write Arabic. The people who came to see me soon made me +acquainted with the characters; and I discovered, that, by engaging their +attention in this way, they were not so troublesome as otherwise they +would have been: indeed, when I observed any person whose countenance I +thought bore malice towards me, I made it a rule to ask him, either to +write in the sand himself, or to decipher what I had already written; and +the pride of showing his superior attainments generally induced him to +comply with my request. + +April 14th. As Queen Fatima had not yet arrived, Ali proposed to go to +the north, and bring her back with him; but as the place was two days' +journey from Benowm, it was necessary to have some refreshment on the +road; and Ali, suspicious of those about him, was so afraid of being +poisoned, that he never ate anything but what was dressed under his own +immediate inspection. A fine bullock was therefore killed, and the flesh +being cut into thin slices, was dried in the sun: and this, with two bags +of dry kouskous, formed his travelling provisions. + +Previous to his departure, the black people of the town of Benowm came, +according to their annual custom, to show their arms, and bring their +stipulated tribute of corn and cloth. They were but badly armed: +twenty-two with muskets, forty or fifty with bows and arrows; and nearly +the same number of men and boys with spears only: they arranged +themselves before the tent, where they waited until their arms were +examined and some little disputes settled. + +About midnight on the 16th, Ali departed quietly from Benowm, accompanied +by a few attendants. He was expected to return in the course of nine or +ten days. + +April 18th Two days after the departure of Ali, a Shereef arrived with +salt and some other articles from Walet, the capital of the kingdom of +Biroo. As there was no tent appropriated for him, he took up his abode in +the same hut with me. He seemed to be a well informed man, and his +acquaintance both with the Arabic and Bambarra tongues enabled him to +travel, with ease and safety, through a number of kingdoms; for though +his place of residence was Walet, he had visited Houssa, and had lived +some years at Tombuctoo. Upon my inquiring so particularly about the +distance from Walet to Tombuctoo, he asked me if I intended to travel +that way; and being answered in the affirmative, he shook his head, and +said, _it would not do_; for that Christians were looked upon there as +the devil's children, and enemies to the Prophet. From him I learned the +following particulars; that Houssa was the largest town he had ever seen; +that Walet was larger than Tombuctoo; but being remote from the Niger, +and its trade consisting chiefly of salt, it was not so much resorted to +by strangers; that between Benowm and Walet was ten days' journey; but +the road did not lead through any remarkable towns, and travellers +supported themselves by purchasing milk from the Arabs, who keep their +herds by the watering places; two of the days' journies were over a sandy +country, without water. From Walet to Tombuctoo was eleven days more; but +water was more plentiful, and the journey was usually performed upon +bullocks. He said there were many Jews at Tombuctoo, but they all spoke +Arabic, and used the same prayers as the Moors. He frequently pointed his +hand to the south-east quarter, or rather the east by south; observing, +that Tombuctoo was situated in that direction; and though I made him +repeat this information again and again, I never found him to vary more +than half a point, which was to the southward. + +April 24th. This morning Shereef Sidi Mahomed Moora Abdalla, a native of +Morocco, arrived with five bullocks loaded with salt. He had formerly +resided some months at Gibraltar, where he had picked up as much English +as enabled him to make himself understood. He informed me, that he had +been five months in coming from Santa Cruz; but that great part of the +time had been spent in trading. When I requested him to enumerate the +days employed in travelling from Morocco to Benowm, he gave them as +follows;--to Swera, three days; to Agadier, three; to Jiniken, ten; to +Wadenoon, four; to Lakeneigh, five; to Zeeriwin-zeriman, five; Tisheet, +ten; to Benowm, ten; in all fifty days; but travellers usually rest a +long while at Jiniken and Tisheet; at the latter of which places they dig +the rock salt, which is so great an article of commerce with the Negroes. + +In conversing with these Shereefs, and the different strangers that +resorted to the camp, I passed my time with rather less uneasiness than +formerly. On the other hand, as the dressing of my victuals was now left +entirely to the care of Ali's slaves, over whom I had not the smallest +control, I found myself but ill supplied, worse even than in the fast +month. For two successive nights they neglected to send us our accustomed +meal; and though my boy went to a small Negro town near the camp, and +begged with great diligence from hut to hut, he could only procure a few +handfuls of ground nuts, which he readily shared with me. Hunger, at +first, is certainly a very painful sensation; but when it has continued +for some time, this pain is succeeded by languor and debility: in which +case, a draught of water, by keeping the stomach distended, will greatly +exhilarate the spirits, and remove for a short time every sort of +uneasiness. Johnson and Demba were very much dejected. They lay stretched +upon the sand, in a sort of torpid slumber: and even when the kouskous +arrived, I found some difficulty in awakening them. I felt no inclination +to sleep, but was affected with a deep convulsive respiration, like +constant sighing: and what alarmed me still more, a dimness of sight, and +a tendency to faint when I attempted to sit up. These symptoms did not go +off until some time after I had received nourishment. + +We had been for some days in daily expectation of Ali's return from +Saheel (or the north country) with his wife Fatima. In the meanwhile +Mansong, King of Bambarra, as I have related in Chapter VIII, had sent to +Ali for a party of horse to assist in storming Gedingooma. With this +demand Ali had not only refused to comply, but had treated the messengers +with great haughtiness and contempt; upon which Mansong gave up all +thoughts of taking the town, and prepared to chastise Ali for his +contumacy. + +Things were in this situation when, on the 29th of April, a messenger +arrived at Benowm, with the disagreeable intelligence that the Bambarra +army was approaching the frontiers of Ludamar. This threw the whole +country into confusion; and in the afternoon Ali's son, with about twenty +horsemen, arrived at Benowm. He ordered all the cattle to be driven away +immediately, all the tents to be struck, and the people to hold +themselves in readiness to depart at daylight the next morning. + +April 30th. At daybreak the whole camp was in motion. The baggage was +carried upon bullocks, the two tent poles being placed one on each side, +and the different wooden articles of the tent distributed in like manner; +the tent cloth was thrown over all, and upon this was commonly placed one +or two women, for the Moorish women are very bad walkers. The king's +favourite concubines rode upon camels, with a saddle of a particular +construction, and a canopy to shelter them from the sun. We proceeded to +the northward until noon, when the king's son ordered the whole company, +except two tents, to enter a thick low wood, which was upon our right. I +was sent along with the two tents, and arrived in the evening at a Negro +town called Farani; here we pitched the tents in an open place, at no +great distance from the town. + +The hurry and confusion which attended this decampment prevented the +slaves from dressing the usual quantity of victuals; and lest their dry +provisions should be exhausted before they reached their place of +destination, (for as yet none but Ali and the chief men knew whither we +were going,) they thought proper to make me observe this day as a day of +fasting. + +May 1st. As I had some reason to suspect that this day was also to be +considered as a fast, I went in the morning to the Negro town of Farani, +and begged some provisions from the Dooti, who readily supplied my wants, +and desired me to come to his house every day during my stay in the +neighbourhood. These hospitable people are looked upon by the Moors as an +abject race of slaves, and are treated accordingly. Two of Ali's +household slaves, a man and a woman, who had come along with the two +tents, went this morning to water the cattle from the town wells, at +which there began to be a great scarcity. When the Negro women observed +the cattle approaching, they took up their pitchers, and ran with all +possible haste towards the town, but before they could enter the gate, +they were stopped by the slaves, who compelled them to bring back the +water they had drawn for their own families, and empty it into the +troughs for the cattle. When this was exhausted, they were ordered to +draw water until such time as the cattle had all drank; and the woman +slave actually broke two wooden bowls over the heads of the black girls, +because they were somewhat dilatory in obeying her commands. + +May 3d. We departed from the vicinity of Farani, and after a circuitous +route through the woods, arrived at Ali's camp in the afternoon. This +encampment was larger than that of Benowm, and was situated in the middle +of a thick wood about two miles distant from a Negro town, called +Bubaker. I immediately waited upon Ali, in order to pay my respects to +Queen Fatima, who had come with him from Saheel. He seemed much pleased +with my coming; shook hands with me, and informed his wife that I was the +Christian. She was a woman of the Arab cast, with long black hair, and +remarkably corpulent. She appeared at first rather shocked at the thought +of having a Christian so near her; but when I had (by means of a Negro +boy, who spoke the Mandingo and Arabic tongues) answered a great many +questions, which her curiosity suggested, respecting the country of the +Christians, she seemed more at ease, and presented me with a bowl of +milk; which I considered as a very favourable omen. + +The heat was now almost insufferable; all nature seemed sinking under it. +The distant country presented to the eye a dreary expanse of sand, with a +few stunted trees and prickly bushes, in the shade of which the hungry +cattle licked up the withered grass, while the camels and goats picked +off the scanty foliage. The scarcity of water was greater here than at +Benowm. Day and night the wells were crowded with cattle, lowing and +fighting with each other to come at the troughs; excessive thirst made +many of them furious: others, being too weak to contend for the water, +endeavoured to quench their thirst by devouring the black mud from the +gutters near the wells; which they did with great avidity, though it was +commonly fatal to them. + +This great scarcity of water was felt severely by all the people of the +camp, and by none more than myself; for though Ali allowed me a skin for +containing water, and Fatima, once or twice, gave me a small supply, when +I was in distress, yet such was the barbarous disposition, of the Moors +at the wells, that when my boy attempted to fill the skin, he commonly +received a sound drubbing for his presumption. Every one was astonished +that the slave of a Christian should attempt to draw water from wells +which had been dug by the followers of the Prophet. This treatment, at +length, so frightened the boy, that I believe he would sooner have +perished with thirst, than attempted again to fill the skin; he, +therefore, contented himself with begging water from the Negro slaves +that attended the camp; and I followed his example; but with very +indifferent success; for though I let no opportunity slip, and was very +urgent in my solicitations, both to the Moors and the Negroes, I was but +ill supplied, and frequently passed the night in the situation of +_Tantalus_. No sooner had I shut my eyes, than fancy would convey me to +the streams and rivers of my native land; there, as I wandered along the +verdant brink, I surveyed the clear stream with transport, and hastened +to swallow the delightful draught;--but, alas! disappointment awakened +me; and I found myself a lonely captive, perishing of thirst, amidst the +wilds of Africa. + +One night, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, and being +quite feverish, I resolved to try my fortune at the wells, which were +about half a mile distant from the camp. Accordingly, I set out about +midnight, and being guided by the lowing of the cattle, soon arrived at +the place; where I found the Moors very busy drawing water. I requested +permission to drink, but was driven away with outrageous abuse. Passing, +however, from one well to another, I came at last to one where there was +only an old man and two boys. I made the same request to this man, and he +immediately drew me up a bucket of water; but, as I was about to take +hold of it, he recollected that I was a Christian, and fearing that his +bucket might be polluted by my lips, he dashed the water into the trough, +and told me to drink from thence. Though this trough was none of the +largest, and three cows were already drinking in it, I resolved to come +in for my share; and kneeling down, thrust my head between two of the +cows, and drank with great pleasure, until the water was nearly +exhausted, and the cows began to contend with each other for the last +mouthful. + +In adventures of this nature, I passed the sultry month of May, during +which no material change took place in my situation. Ali still considered +me as a lawful prisoner; and Fatima, though she allowed me a larger +quantity of victuals than I had been accustomed to receive at Benowm, had +as yet said nothing on the subject of my release. In the meantime, the +frequent changes of the wind, the gathering clouds, and distant +lightning, with other appearances of approaching rain, indicated that the +wet season was at hand; when the Moors annually evacuate the country of +the Negroes, and return to the skirts of the Great Desert. This made me +consider that my fate was drawing towards a crisis, and I resolved to +wait for the event without any seeming uneasiness; but circumstances +occurred which produced a change in my favour, more suddenly than I had +foreseen, or had, reason to expect. The case was this; the fugitive +Kaartans, who had taken refuge in Ludamar, as I have related in Chapter +VIII., finding that the Moors were about to leave them, and dreading the +resentment of their own sovereign, whom they had so basely deserted, +offered to treat with Ali, for two hundred Moorish horsemen, to +co-operate with them in an effort to expel Daisy from Gedingooma; for +until Daisy should be vanquished or humbled, they considered that they +could neither return to their native towns, nor live in security in any +of the neighbouring kingdoms. With a view to extort money from these +people, by means of this treaty, Ali dispatched his son to Jarra, and +prepared to follow him in the course of a few days. This was an +opportunity of too great consequence to me to be neglected. I immediately +applied to Fatima, (who, I found, had the chief direction in all affairs +of state,) and begged her interest with Ali, to give me permission to +accompany him to Jarra. This request, after some hesitation, was +favourably received. Fatima looked kindly on me, and, I believe, was at +length moved with compassion towards me. My bundles were brought from the +large cow-skin bag that stood in the corner of Ali's tent, and I was +ordered to explain the use of the different articles, and show the method +of putting on the boots, stockings, &c., with all which I cheerfully +complied, and was told that, in the course of a few days, I should be at +liberty to depart. + +Believing, therefore, that I should certainly find the means of escaping +from Jarra, if I should once get thither, I now freely indulged the +pleasing hope that my captivity would soon terminate; and happily not +having been disappointed in this idea, I shall pause in this place, to +collect and bring into one point of view such observations on the Moorish +character and country, as I had no fair opportunity of introducing into +the preceding narrative. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +_Containing some further miscellaneous reflections on the Moorish +character and manners.--Observations concerning the Great Desert, its +animals, wild and domestic, &c. &c._ + + +The Moors of this part of Africa are divided into many separate tribes; +of which the most formidable, according to what was reported to me, are +those of Trasart and Il Braken, which inhabit the northern bank of the +Senegal river. The tribes of Gedumah, Jafnoo, and Ludamar, though not so +numerous as the former, are nevertheless very powerful and warlike; and +are each governed by a chief or king, who exercises absolute jurisdiction +over his own horde, without acknowledging allegiance to a common +sovereign. In time of peace, the employment of the people is pasturage. +The Moors, indeed, subsist chiefly on the flesh of their cattle; and are +always in the extreme of either gluttony or abstinence. In consequence of +the frequent and severe fasts which their religion enjoins, and the +toilsome journeys which they sometimes undertake across the Desert, they +are enabled to bear both hunger and thirst with surprising fortitude; but +whenever opportunities occur of satisfying their appetite, they generally +devour more at one meal than would serve an European for three. They pay +but little attention to agriculture; purchasing their corn, cotton-cloth, +and other necessaries, from the Negroes, in exchange for salt, which they +dig from the pits in the Great Desert. + +The natural barrenness of the country is such, that it furnishes but few +materials for manufacture. The Moors, however, contrive to weave a strong +cloth, with which they cover their tents; the thread is spun by their +women from the hair of goats; and they prepare the hides of their cattle, +so as to furnish saddles, bridles, pouches, and other articles of +leather. They are likewise sufficiently skilful to convert the native +iron, which they procure from the Negroes, into spears and knives, and +also into pots for boiling their food; but their sabres and other +weapons, as well as their fire-arms and ammunition, they purchase from +the Europeans in exchange for the Negro slaves, which they obtain in +their predatory excursions. Their chief commerce of this kind is with the +French traders on the Senegal river. + +The Moors are rigid Mahomedans, and possess, with the bigotry and +superstition, all the intolerance of their sect. They have no mosques at +Benowm, but perform their devotions in a sort of open shed or inclosure +made of mats. The priest is at the same time schoolmaster to the juniors. +His pupils assemble every evening before his tent, where, by the light of +a large fire made of brushwood and cow's dung, they are taught a few +sentences from the Koran, and are initiated into the principles of their +creed. Their alphabet differs but little from that in Richardson's Arabic +Grammar. They always write with the vowel points. Their priests even +affect to know something of foreign literature. The priest of Benowm +assured me that he could read the writings of the Christians: he showed +me a number of barbarous characters which he asserted were the Roman +alphabet, and he produced another specimen equally unintelligible, which +he declared to be the _Kallam il Indi_, or Persian. His library consisted +of nine volumes in quarto; most of them, I believe, were books of +religion; for the name of Mahomet appeared in red letters in almost every +page of each. His scholars wrote their lessons upon thin boards; paper +being too expensive for general use. The boys were diligent enough, and +appeared to possess a considerable share of emulation; carrying their +boards slung over their shoulders when about their common employments. +When a boy has committed to memory a few of their prayers, and can read +and write certain parts of the Koran, he is reckoned sufficiently +instructed; and with this slender stock of learning, commences his career +of life. Proud of his acquirements, he surveys with contempt the +unlettered Negro; and embraces every opportunity of displaying his +superiority over such of his countrymen as are not distinguished by the +same accomplishments. + +The education of the girls is neglected altogether; mental +accomplishments are but little attended to by the women; nor is the want +of them considered by the men as a defect in the female character. They +are regarded, I believe, as an inferior species of animals, and seem to +be brought up for no other purpose than that of administering to the +sensual pleasures of their imperious masters. Voluptuousness is, +therefore, considered as their chief accomplishment, and slavish +submission as their indispensable duty. + +The Moors have singular ideas of feminine perfection. The gracefulness of +figure and motion, and a countenance enlivened by expression, are by no +means essential points in their standard: with them, corpulence and +beauty appear to be terms nearly synonymous. A woman of even moderate +pretensions must be one who cannot walk without a slave under each arm to +support her; and a perfect beauty is a load for a camel. In consequence +of this prevalent taste for unwieldiness of bulk, the Moorish ladies take +great pains to acquire it early in life; and for this purpose many of the +young girls are compelled by their mothers to devour a great quantity of +kouskous, and drink a large bowl of camel's milk every morning. It is of +no importance whether the girl has an appetite or not, the kouskous and +milk must be swallowed: and obedience is frequently enforced by blows. I +have seen a poor girl sit crying, with a bowl at her lips, for more than +an hour; and her mother, with a stick in her hand, watching her all the +while, and using the stick without mercy whenever she observed that her +daughter was not swallowing. This singular practice, instead of producing +indigestion and disease, soon covers the young lady with that degree of +plumpness, which, in the eye of a Moor, is perfection itself. + +As the Moors purchase all their clothing from the Negroes, the women are +forced to be very economical in the article of dress. In general they +content themselves with a broad piece of cotton-cloth, which is wrapped +round the middle, and hangs round like a petticoat almost to the ground: +to the upper part of this are sewed two square pieces, one before, and +the other behind, which are fastened together over the shoulders. The +head-dress is commonly a bandage of cotton-cloth, with some parts of it +broader than others, which serve to conceal the face when they walk in +the sun; frequently, however, when they go abroad they veil themselves +from head to foot. + +The employment of the women varies according to their degrees of +opulence.--Queen Fatima, and a few others of high rank, like the great +ladies in some parts of Europe, pass their time chiefly in conversing +with their visitors, performing their devotions, or admiring their charms +in a looking-glass. The women of inferior class employ themselves in +different domestic duties. They are very vain and talkative; and when any +thing puts them out of humour, they commonly vent their anger upon their +female slaves, over whom they rule with severe and despotic authority; +which leads me to observe, that the condition of these poor captives is +deplorably wretched. At daybreak they are compelled to fetch water from +the wells in large skins called _girbas_; and as soon as they have +brought water enough to serve the family for the day, as well as the +horses, (for the Moors seldom give their horses the trouble of going to +the wells,) they are then employed in pounding the corn, and dressing the +victuals. This being always done in the open air, the slaves are exposed +to the combined heat of the sun, the sand, and the fire. In the intervals +it is their business to sweep the tent, churn the milk, and perform other +domestic offices. With all this they are badly fed, and oftentimes +cruelly punished. + +The men's dress among the Moors of Ludamar differs but little from that +of the Negroes, (which has been already described,) except that they have +all adopted that characteristic of the Mahomedan sect, the _turban_, +which is here universally made of white cotton-cloth. Such of the Moors +as have long beards display them with a mixture of pride and +satisfaction, as denoting an Arab ancestry. Of this number was Ali +himself; but among the generality of the people the hair is short and +bushy, and universally black. And here I may be permitted to observe, +that if any one circumstance excited among them favourable thoughts +towards my own person, it was my beard; which was now grown to an +enormous length, and was always beheld with approbation or envy. I +believe in my conscience they thought it too good a beard for a +Christian. + +The only diseases which I observed to prevail among the Moors were the +intermittent fever and dysentery; for the cure of which, nostrums are +sometimes administered by their old women; but, in general, nature is +left to her own operations. Mention was made to me of the small-pox, as +being sometimes very destructive; but it had not, to my knowledge, made +its appearance in Ludamar while I was in captivity. That it prevails, +however, among some tribes of the Moors, and that it is frequently +conveyed by them to the Negroes in the southern states, I was assured on +the authority of Dr. Laidley, who also informed me that the Negroes on +the Gambia practise inoculation. + +The administration of criminal justice, as far as I had opportunities of +observing, was prompt and decisive. For, although civil rights were but +little regarded in Ludamar, it was necessary, when crimes were committed, +that examples should sometimes be made. On such occasions, the offender +was brought before Ali, who pronounced, of his sole authority, what +judgment he thought proper. But I understood that capital punishment was +seldom or never inflicted, except on the Negroes. + +Although the wealth of the Moors consists chiefly in their numerous herds +of cattle, yet, as the pastoral life does not afford full employment, the +majority of the people are perfectly idle, and spend the day in trifling +conversation about their horses, or in laying schemes of depredation on +the Negro villages. + +The usual place of rendezvous for the indolent is the king's tent; where +great liberty of speech seems to be exercised by the company towards each +other; while in speaking of their chief they express but one opinion. In +praise of their sovereign they are unanimous. Songs are composed in his +honour, which the company frequently sing in concert; but they are so +loaded with gross adulation, that no man but a Moorish despot could hear +them without blushing. The king is distinguished by the fineness of his +dress; which is composed of blue cotton-cloth, brought from Tombuctoo, or +white linen or muslin from Morocco. He has likewise a larger tent than +any other person, with a white cloth over it; but, in his usual +intercourse with his subjects, all distinctions of rank are frequently +forgotten. He sometimes eats out of the same bowl with his camel driver, +and reposes himself, during the heat of the day, upon the same bed. The +expenses of his government and household are defrayed by a tax upon his +Negro subjects, which is paid by every householder, either in corn, +cloth, or gold-dust; a tax upon the different Moorish Korrees, or +watering places, which is commonly levied in cattle; and a tax upon all +merchandize which passes through the kingdom, and is generally collected +in kind. But a considerable part of the king's revenue arises from the +plunder of individuals. The Negro inhabitants of Ludamar, and the +travelling merchants, are afraid of appearing rich; for Ali, who has +spies stationed in the different towns, to give him information +concerning the wealth of his subjects, frequently invents some frivolous +plea for seizing their property, and reducing the opulent to a level with +their fellow citizens. + +Of the number of Ali's Moorish subjects, I had no means of forming a +correct estimate. The military strength of Ludamar consists in cavalry. +They are well mounted, and appear to be very expert in skirmishing and +attacking by surprise. Every soldier furnishes his own horse, and finds +his accoutrements, consisting of a large sabre, a double-barrelled gun, a +small red leather bag for holding his balls, and a powder-horn slung over +the shoulder. He has no pay, nor any remuneration but what arises from +plunder. This body is not very numerous, for when Ali made war upon +Bambarra, I was informed that his whole force did not exceed two thousand +cavalry. They constitute, however, by what I could learn, but a very +small proportion of his Moorish subjects. The horses are very beautiful, +and so highly esteemed, that the Negro princes will sometimes give from +twelve to fourteen slaves for one horse. + +Ludamar has for its northern boundary the Great Desert of Sahara. From +the best inquiries I could make, this vast ocean of sand, which occupies +so large a space in Northern Africa, may be pronounced almost destitute +of inhabitants, except where the scanty vegetation which appears in +certain spots affords pasturage for the flocks of a few miserable Arabs, +who wander from one well to another. In other places, where the supply of +water and pasturage is more abundant, small parties of the Moors have +taken up their residence. Here they live in independent poverty, secure +from the tyrannical government of Barbary. But the greater part of the +Desert being totally destitute of water, is seldom visited by any human +being, unless where the trading caravans trace out their toilsome and +dangerous route across it. In some parts of this extensive waste, the +ground is covered with low stunted shrubs, which serve as land-marks for +the caravans, and furnish the camels with a scanty forage. In other parts +the disconsolate wanderer, wherever he turns, sees nothing around him but +a vast interminable expanse of sand and sky; a gloomy and barren void, +where the eye finds no particular object to rest upon, and the mind is +filled with painful apprehensions of perishing with thirst. "Surrounded +by this dreary solitude, the traveller sees the dead bodies of birds, +that the violence of the wind has brought, from happier regions: and as +he ruminates on the fearful length of his remaining passage, listens with +horror to the voice of the driving blast, the only sound that interrupts +the awful repose of the Desert."[11] + + [11] Proceedings of the African Association, part 1. + +The few wild animals which inhabit these melancholy regions are the +antelope and the ostrich, their swiftness of foot enabling them to reach +the distant watering places. On the skirts of the Desert, where water is +more plentiful, are found lions, panthers, elephants, and wild boars. + +Of domestic animals, the only one that can endure the fatigue of crossing +the Desert is the camel. By the particular conformation of the stomach, +he is enabled to carry a supply of water sufficient for ten or twelve +days; his broad and yielding foot is well adapted for a sandy country; +and by a singular motion of his upper lip, he picks the smallest leaves +from the thorny shrubs of the Desert as he passes along. The camel is, +therefore, the only beast of burthen employed by the trading caravans, +which traverse the Desert in different directions, from Barbary to +Nigritia. As this useful and docile creature has been sufficiently +described by systematical writers, it is unnecessary for me to enlarge +upon his properties. I shall only add, that his flesh, though to my own +taste dry and unsavoury, is preferred by the Moors to any other; and that +the milk of the female is in universal esteem, and is indeed sweet, +pleasant, and nutritive. + +I have observed that the Moors, in their complexion, resemble the +Mulattoes of the West Indies; but they have something unpleasant in their +aspect, which the Mulattoes have not. I fancied that I discovered in the +features of most of them a disposition towards cruelty and low cunning; +and I could never contemplate their physiognomy without feeling sensible +uneasiness. From the staring wildness of their eyes, a stranger would +immediately set them down as a nation of lunatics. The treachery and +malevolence of their character are manifested in their plundering +excursions against the Negro villages. Oftentimes, without the smallest +provocation, and sometimes under the fairest professions of friendship, +they will suddenly seize upon the Negroes' cattle, and even on the +inhabitants themselves. The Negroes very seldom retaliate. The +enterprising boldness of the Moors, their knowledge of the country, and, +above all, the superior fleetness of their horses, make them such +formidable enemies, that the petty Negro states which border upon the +Desert are in continual terror while the Moorish tribes are in the +vicinity, and are too much awed to think of resistance. + +Like the roving Arabs, the Moors frequently remove from one place to +another, according to the season of the year, or the convenience of +pasturage. In the month of February, when the heat of the sun scorches up +every sort of vegetation in the Desert, they strike their tents, and +approach the Negro country to the south, where they reside until the +rains commence in the month of July. At this time, having purchased corn +and other necessaries from the Negroes, in exchange for salt, they again +depart to the northward, and continue in the Desert until the rains are +over, and that part of the country becomes burnt up and barren. + +This wandering and restless way of life, while it inures them to +hardships, strengthens at the same time the bonds of their little +society, and creates in them an aversion towards strangers, which is +almost insurmountable. Cut off from all intercourse with civilized +nations, and boasting an advantage over the Negroes, by possessing, +though in a very limited degree, the knowledge of letters, they are at +once the vainest and proudest, and perhaps the most bigotted, ferocious, +and intolerant of all the nations on the earth, combining in their +character the blind superstition of the Negro, with the savage cruelty +and treachery of the Arab. + +It is probable that many of them had never beheld a white man before my +arrival at Benowm; but they had all been taught to regard the Christian +name with inconceivable abhorrence, and to consider it nearly as lawful +to murder a European as it would be to kill a dog. The melancholy fate of +Major Houghton, and the treatment I experienced during my confinement +among them, will, I trust, serve as a warning to future travellers to +avoid this inhospitable district. + +The reader may probably have expected from me a more detailed and copious +account of the manners, customs, superstitions, and prejudices of this +secluded and singular people; but it must not be forgotten, that the +wretchedness of my situation among them afforded me but few opportunities +of collecting information. Some particulars, however, might be added in +this place; but being equally applicable to the Negroes of the southward, +they will appear in a subsequent page. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +_Ali departs for Jarra, and the Author allowed to follow him +thither.--The Author's faithful servant, Demba, seized by Ali's order, +and sent back into slavery.--Ali returns to his camp, and permits the +Author to remain at Jarra, who, thenceforward, meditates his +escape.--Daisy, King of Kaarta, approaching with his army towards Jarra, +the inhabitants quit the town, and the Author accompanies them in their +flight.--A party of Moors overtake him at Queira.--He gets away from them +at daybreak.--Is again pursued by another party, and robbed; but finally +effects his escape._ + + +Having, as has been related, obtained permission to accompany Ali to +Jarra, I took leave of Queen Fatima, who, with much grace and civility, +returned me part of my apparel: and the evening before my departure, my +horse, with the saddle and bridle, were sent me by Ali's order. + +Early on the morning of the 26th of May, I departed from the camp of +Bubaker, accompanied by my two attendants, Johnson and Demba, and a +number of Moors on horseback; Ali, with about fifty horsemen, having gone +privately from the camp during the night. We stopped about noon at +Farani, and were there joined by twelve Moors riding upon camels, and +with them we proceeded to a watering-place in the woods, where we +overtook Ali with his fifty horsemen. They were lodged in some low +shepherds' tents near the wells. As the company was numerous, the tents +could scarcely accommodate us all; and I was ordered to sleep in the open +space in the centre of the tents, where every one might observe my +motions. + +During the night, there was much lightning from the north-east; and about +daybreak a very heavy sand-wind commenced, which continued with great +violence until four in the afternoon. The quantity of sand which passed +to the westward in the course of this day must have been prodigiously +great. At times it was impossible to look up; and the cattle were so +tormented by the particles lodging in their ears and eyes that they ran +about like mad creatures, and I was in continual danger of being trampled +to death by them. + +May 28th. Early in the morning the Moors saddled their horses, and Ali's +chief slave ordered me to get in readiness. In a little time the same +messenger returned, and taking my boy by the shoulders, told him, in the +Mandingo language, that "Ali was to be his master in future:" and then +turning to me, "the business is settled at last, (said he,) the boy, and +every thing but your horse, goes back to Bubaker; but you may take the +old fool (meaning Johnson the interpreter) with you to Jarra." I made him +no answer; but being shocked beyond description at the idea of losing the +poor boy, I hastened to Ali, who was at breakfast before his tent, +surrounded by many of his courtiers. I told him, perhaps in rather too +passionate a strain, that whatever imprudence I had been guilty of, in +coming into his country, I thought I had already been sufficiently +punished for it, by being so long detained, and then plundered of all my +little property; which, however, gave me no uneasiness, when compared +with what he had just now done to me. I observed, that the boy which he +had now seized upon was not a slave, and had been accused of no offence; +he was indeed one of my attendants; and his faithful services in that +station had procured him his freedom; his fidelity and attachment had +made him follow me into my present situation; and as he looked up to me +for protection, I could not see him deprived of his liberty, without +remonstrating against such an act, as the height of cruelty and +injustice. Ali made no reply, but with a haughty air and malignant smile, +told his interpreter, that if I did not mount my horse immediately, he +would send me back likewise. There is something in the frown of a tyrant +which rouses the most secret emotions of the heart; I could not suppress +my feelings; and for once entertained an indignant wish to rid the world +of such a monster. + +Poor Demba was not less affected than myself: he had formed a strong +attachment towards me, and had a cheerfulness of disposition, which often +beguiled the tedious hours of captivity; he was likewise a proficient in +the Bambarra tongue, and promised on that account to be of great utility +to me in future. But it was in vain to expect anything favourable to +humanity from people who are strangers to its dictates. So having shaken +hands with this unfortunate boy, and blended my tears with his, assuring +him, however, that I would do my utmost to redeem him, I saw him led off +by three of Ali's slaves towards the camp at Bubaker. + +When the Moors had mounted their horses, I was ordered to follow them; +and, after a toilsome journey through the woods, in a very sultry day, we +arrived in the afternoon at a walled village, called Doombani; where we +remained two days, waiting for the arrival of some horsemen from the +northward. + +On the 1st of June we departed from Doombani towards Jarra. Our company +now amounted to two hundred men, all on horseback; for the Moors never +use infantry in their wars. They appeared capable of enduring great +fatigue; but from their total want of discipline our journey to Jarra was +more like a fox-chase than the march of an army. + +At Jarra, I took up my lodging at the house of my old acquaintance, Daman +Jumma; and informed him of every thing that had befallen me. I +particularly requested him to use his interest with Ali to redeem my boy, +and promised him a bill upon Dr. Laidley, for the value of two slaves, +the moment he brought him to Jarra. Daman very readily undertook to +negotiate the business; but found that Ali considered the boy as my +principal interpreter, and was unwilling to part with him, lest he should +fall a second time into my hands, and be instrumental in conducting me to +Bambarra. Ali, therefore, put off the matter from day to day; but withal +told Daman, that if he wished to purchase the boy for himself, he should +have him thereafter, at the common price of a slave; which Daman agreed +to pay for him, whenever Ali should send him to Jarra. + +The chief object of Ali, in this journey to Jarra, as I have already +related, was to procure money from such of the Kaartans as had taken +refuge in his country. Some of these had solicited his protection, to +avoid the horrors of war; but by far the greatest number of them were +dissatisfied men, who wished the ruin of their own sovereign. These +people no sooner heard that the Bambarran army had returned to Sego +without subduing Daisy, as was generally expected, than they resolved to +make a sudden attack themselves upon him, before he could recruit his +forces, which were now known to be much diminished by a bloody campaign, +and in great want of provisions. With this view, they solicited the Moors +to join them, and offered to hire of Ali two hundred horsemen; which Ali, +with the warmest professions of friendship, agreed to furnish, upon +condition that they should previously supply him with four hundred head +of cattle, two hundred garments of blue cloth, and a considerable +quantity of beads and ornaments. The raising this impost somewhat +perplexed them; and in order to procure the cattle, they persuaded the +king to demand one-half the stipulated number from the people of Jarra; +promising to replace them in a short time. Ali agreed to this proposal, +and the same evening (June 2d) the drum was sent through the town; and +the crier announced that if any person suffered his cattle to go into the +woods the next morning, before the king had chosen his quota of them, his +house should be plundered, and his slaves taken from him. The people +dared not disobey the proclamation; and next morning about two hundred of +their best cattle were selected, and delivered to the Moors; the full +complement was made up afterwards, by means equally unjust and arbitrary. + +June 8th. In the afternoon Ali sent his chief slave to inform me, that he +was about to return to Bubaker; but as he would only stay there a few +days, to keep the approaching festival (_Banna Salee_), and then return +to Jarra, I had permission to remain with Daman until his return. This +was joyful news to me; but I had experienced so many disappointments, +that I was unwilling to indulge the hope of its being true, until Johnson +came and told me that Ali, with part of the horsemen, were actually gone +from the town, and that the rest were to follow him in the morning. + +June 9th. Early in the morning the remainder of the Moors departed from +the town. They had, during their stay, committed many acts of robbery; +and this morning, with the most unparalleled audacity, they seized upon +three girls who were bringing water from the wells, and carried them away +into slavery. + +The anniversary of _Banna Salee_, at Jarra, very well deserved to be +called a festival. The slaves were all finely clad on this occasion, and +the householders vied with each other in providing large quantities of +victuals, which they distributed to all their neighbours with the +greatest profusion; hunger was literally banished from the town; man, +woman, and child, bond and free, all had as much as they could eat. + +June 12th. Two people, dreadfully wounded, were discovered, at a +watering-place in the woods; one of them had just breathed his last, but +the other was brought alive to Jarra. On recovering a little, he informed +the people, that he had fled through the woods from Kasson; that Daisy +had made war upon Sambo, the king of that country; had surprised three of +his towns, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. He enumerated by +name many of the friends of the Jarra people, who had been murdered in +Kasson. This intelligence made the death-howl universal in Jarra for the +space of two days. + +This piece of bad news was followed by another not less distressing. A +number of runaway slaves arrived from Kaarta on the 14th, and reported +that Daisy, having received information concerning the intended attack +upon him, was about to visit Jarra. This made the Negroes call upon Ali +for the two hundred horsemen, which he was to furnish them, according to +engagement. But Ali paid very little attention to their remonstrances; +and at last plainly told them that his cavalry were otherwise employed. +The Negroes, thus deserted by the Moors, and fully apprised that the King +of Kaarta would show them as little clemency as he had shown the +inhabitants of Kasson, resolved to collect all their forces, and hazard a +battle, before the king, who was now in great distress for want of +provisions, should become too powerful for them. They, therefore, +assembled about eight hundred effective men in the whole; and with these +they entered Kaarta on the evening of the 18th of June. + +June 19th. This morning the wind shifted to the south-west; and about two +o'clock in the afternoon we had a heavy tornado, or thunder squall, +accompanied with rain, which greatly revived the face of nature, and gave +a pleasant coolness to the air. This was the first rain that had fallen +for many months. + +As every attempt to redeem my boy had hitherto been unsuccessful, and in +all probability would continue to prove so whilst I remained in the +country, I found that it was necessary for me to come to some +determination concerning my own safety, before the rains should be fully +set in; for my landlord, seeing no likelihood of being paid for his +trouble, began to wish me away; and Johnson, my interpreter, refusing to +proceed, my situation became very perplexing. If I continued where I was, +I foresaw that I must soon fall a victim to the barbarity of the Moors; +and yet if I went forward singly, it was evident that I must sustain +great difficulties, both from the want of means to purchase the +necessaries of life, and of an interpreter to make myself understood. On +the other hand, to return to England, without accomplishing the object of +my mission, was worse than either. I therefore determined to avail myself +of the first opportunity of escaping, and to proceed directly for +Bambarra, as soon as the rains had set in for a few days, so as to afford +me the certainty of finding water in the woods. + +Such was my situation, when, on the evening of the 24th of June, I was +startled by the report of some muskets close to the town, and inquiring +the reason, was informed that the Jarra army had returned from fighting +Daisy, and that this firing was by way of rejoicing. However, when the +chief men of the town had assembled, and heard a full detail of the +expedition, they were by no means relieved from their uneasiness on +Daisy's account. The deceitful Moors having drawn back from the +confederacy, after being hired by the Negroes, greatly dispirited the +insurgents, who, instead of finding Daisy with a few friends concealed in +the strong fortress of Gedingooma, had found him at a town near Joka, in +the open country, surrounded by so numerous an army, that every attempt +to attack him was at once given up; and the confederates only thought of +enriching themselves, by the plunder of the small towns in the +neighbourhood. They accordingly fell upon one of Daisy's towns, and +carried off the whole of the inhabitants; but, lest intelligence of this +might reach Daisy, and induce him to cut off their retreat, they returned +through the woods by night, bringing with them the slaves and cattle +which they had captured. + +June 26th. This afternoon, a spy from Kaarta brought the alarming +intelligence, that Daisy had taken Simbing in the morning, and would be +in Jarra some time in the course of the ensuing day. A number of the +people were immediately stationed on the tops of the rocks, and in the +different passages leading into the town, to give early intelligence of +Daisy's motions, and the women set about making the necessary +preparations for quitting the town as soon as possible. They continued +beating corn, and packing up different articles, during the night; and +early in the morning, nearly one half of the townspeople took the road +for Bambarra, by the Way of Deena. + +Their departure was very affecting; the women and children crying; the +men sullen and dejected; and all of them looking back with regret on +their native town, and on the wells and rocks, beyond which their +ambition had never tempted them to stray, and where they had laid all +their plans of future happiness; all of which they were now forced to +abandon, and to seek shelter among strangers. + +June 27th. About eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we were alarmed by the +sentinels, who brought information that Daisy was on his march towards +Jarra, and that the confederate army had fled before him without firing a +gun. The terror of the townspeople on this occasion is not easily to be +described.--Indeed, the screams of the women and children, and the great +hurry and confusion that everywhere prevailed, made me suspect that the +Kaartans had already entered the town; and although I had every reason to +be pleased with Daisy's behaviour to me when I was at Kemmoo, I had no +wish to expose myself to the mercy of his army, who might, in the general +confusion, mistake me for a Moor. I therefore mounted my horse, and +taking a large bag of corn before me, rode slowly along with the +townspeople, until we reached the foot of a rocky hill, where I +dismounted, and drove my horse up before me. When I had reached the +summit I sat down, and having a full view of the town, and the +neighbouring country, could not help lamenting the situation of the poor +inhabitants, who were thronging after me, driving their sheep, cows, +goats, &c. and carrying a scanty portion of provisions, and a few +clothes. There was a great noise and crying everywhere upon the road; for +many aged people and children were unable to walk, and these, with the +sick, were obliged to be carried, otherwise they must have been left to +certain destruction. + +About five o'clock we arrived at a small farm, belonging to the Jarra +people, called Kadeeja; and here I found Daman and Johnson employed in +filling large bags of corn, to be carried upon bullocks, to serve as +provisions for Daman's family on the road. + +June 28th. At daybreak, we departed from Kadeeja; and, having passed +Troomgoomba, without stopping, arrived in the afternoon at Queira. I +remained here two days, in order to recruit my horse, which the Moors had +reduced to a perfect Rosinante, and to wait for the arrival of some +Mandingo Negroes, who were going for Bambarra in the course of a few +days. + +On the afternoon of the 1st of July, as I was tending my horse in the +fields, Ali's chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and took up +their lodging at the Dooty's house. My interpreter, Johnson, who +suspected the nature of this visit, sent two boys to overhear their +conversation; from which he learned that they were sent to convey me back +to Bubaker. The same evening, two of the Moors came privately to look at +my horse, and one of them proposed taking it to the Dooty's hut; but the +other observed that such a precaution was unnecessary, as I could never +escape upon such an animal. They then inquired where I slept, and +returned to their companions. + +All this was like a stroke of thunder to me, for I dreaded nothing so +much as confinement again among the Moors, from whose barbarity I had +nothing but death to expect. I therefore determined to set off +immediately for Bambarra, a measure which I thought offered almost the +only chance of saving my life, and gaining the object of my mission; I +communicated the design to Johnson, who, although he applauded my +resolution, was so far from showing any inclination to accompany me, that +he solemnly protested he would rather forfeit his wages than go any +farther. He told me that Daman had agreed to give him half the price of a +slave for his service, to assist in conducting a coffle of slaves to +Gambia, and that he was determined to embrace the opportunity of +returning to his wife and family. + +Having no hopes, therefore, of persuading him to accompany me, I resolved +to proceed by myself. About midnight I got my clothes in readiness, which +consisted of two shirts, two pairs of trowsers, two pocket-handkerchiefs, +an upper and under waistcoat, a hat, and a pair of half-boots; these, +with a cloak, constituted my whole wardrobe.--And I had not one single +bead, nor any other article of value in my possession, to purchase +victuals for myself, or corn for my horse. + +About daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to the Moors all night, +came and whispered to me that they were asleep. The awful crisis was now +arrived, when I was again either to taste the blessing of freedom, or +languish out my days in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as +I thought on the dreadful alternative, and reflected, that, one way or +the other, my fate must be decided in the course of the ensuing day. But +to deliberate was to lose the only chance of escaping. So, taking up my +bundle, I stepped gently over the Negroes, who were sleeping in the open +air, and having mounted my horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him +to take particular care of the papers I had entrusted him with, and +inform my friends in Gambia that he had left me in good health, on my way +to Bambarra. + +I proceeded with great caution; surveying each bush, and frequently +listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horsemen, until I was +about a mile from the town, when I was surprised to find myself in the +neighbourhood of a Korree, belonging to the Moors. The shepherds followed +me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me: and when I was +out of their reach, and had began to indulge the pleasing hopes of +escaping, I was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody holla behind me; +and looking back, I saw three Moors on horseback, coming after me at full +speed, whooping and brandishing their double-barrelled guns. I knew it +was in vain to think of escaping, and therefore turned back and met them; +when two of them caught hold of my bridle, one on each side, and the +third, presenting his musket, told me I must go back to Ali. + +When the human mind has for sometime been fluctuating between hope and +despair, tortured with anxiety, and hurried from one extreme to another, +it affords a sort of gloomy relief to know the worst that can possibly +happen; such was my situation. An indifference about life and all its +enjoyments had completely benumbed my faculties, and I rode back with the +Moors with apparent unconcern. But a change took place much sooner than I +had any reason to expect. In passing through some thick bushes, one of +the Moors ordered me to untie my bundle, and show them the contents. +Having examined the different articles, they found nothing worth taking +except my cloak, which they considered as a very valuable acquisition, +and one of them pulling it from me, wrapped it about himself. This cloak +had been of great use to me; it served to cover me from the rains in the +day, and to protect me from the musketoes in the night: I therefore +earnestly begged him to return it, and followed him some little way to +obtain it; but without paying any attention to my request, he and one of +his companions rode off with their prize. When I attempted to follow +them, the third, who had remained with me, struck my horse over the head, +and presenting his musket, told me I should proceed no further. + +I now perceived that these men had not been sent by any authority to +apprehend me, but had pursued me solely in the view to rob and plunder +me. Turning my horse's head therefore once more towards the east, and +observing the Moor follow the track of his confederates, I congratulated +myself on having escaped with my life, though in great distress, from +such a horde of barbarians. + +I was no sooner out of sight of the Moor, than I struck into the woods, +to prevent being pursued, and kept pushing on, with all possible speed, +until I found myself near some high rocks, which I remembered to have +seen in my former route from Queira to Deena; and, directing my course a +little to the northward, I fortunately fell in with the path. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +_The Author feels great joy at his deliverance, and proceeds through the +wilderness; but finds his situation very deplorable.--Suffers greatly +from thirst, and faints on the sand--Recovers, and makes another effort +to push forward.--Is providentially relieved by a fall of rain.--Arrives +at a Foulah village, where he is refused relief by the Dooty, but obtains +food from a poor woman.--Continues his journey through the wilderness, +and the next day lights on another Foulah village, where he is hospitably +received by one of the shepherds.--Arrives on the third day at a Negro +town called Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra._ + + +It is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind, when I looked +around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like one recovered +from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness in my limbs; +even the Desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing so much as falling +in with some wandering parties of Moors, who might convey me back to the +land of thieves and murderers, from which I had just escaped. + +I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very deplorable; +for I had no means of procuring food, nor prospect of finding water. +About ten o'clock, perceiving a herd of goats feeding close to the road, +I took a circuitous route to avoid being seen; and continued travelling +through the wilderness, directing my course, by compass, nearly +east-south-east, in order to reach, as soon as possible, some town or +village of the kingdom of Bambarra. + +A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected with +double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges of the hills, +seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave and fluctuate like the +unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst, and climbed a tree in hopes of +seeing distant smoke, or some other appearance of a human habitation; but +in vain, nothing appeared all around but thick underwood and hillocks of +white sand. + +About four o'clock, I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats, and, +pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if, the keepers were +Moors or Negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish boys, and with +some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. They informed me that the +herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going to Deena, where the water +was more plentiful, and where they intended to stay until the rain had +filled the pools in the Desert. They showed me their empty water-skins, +and told me that they had seen no water in the woods. This account +afforded me but little consolation; however, it was in vain to repine, +and I pushed on as fast as possible, in hopes of reaching some +watering-place in the course of the night. My thirst was by this time +become insufferable; my mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden dimness +would frequently come over my eyes, with other symptoms of fainting; and +my horse being very much fatigued, I began seriously to apprehend that I +should perish of thirst. To relieve the burning pain in my mouth and +throat, I chewed the leaves of different shrubs, but found them all +bitter, and of no service. + +A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising, I +climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a +melancholy look over the barren Wilderness, but without discovering the +most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of +shrubs and sand every where presented itself, and the horizon was as +level and uninterrupted as that of the sea. + +Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and +brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt +walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought it but an +act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in my power +to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for himself; in +doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness and giddiness; and +falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching. +"Here, then, (thought I,) after a short but ineffectual struggle, +terminate all my hopes of being useful in my day and generation; here +must the short span of my life come to an end." I cast (as I believed) a +last look on the surrounding scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful +change that was about to take place, this world with its enjoyments +seemed to vanish from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed +its functions; and on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched upon +the sand, with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking +behind the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to +make another effort to prolong my existence. And as the evening was +somewhat cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in +hopes of reaching (my only resource) a watering-place. With this view, I +put the bridle on my horse, and driving him before me, went slowly along +for about an hour, when I perceived some lightning from the north-east, a +most delightful sight; for it promised rain. The darkness and lighting +increased very rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard the wind roaring +among the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to receive the refreshing +drops which I expected; but I was instantly covered with a cloud of sand, +driven with such force by the wind, as to give a very disagreeable +sensation to my face and arms; and I was obliged to mount my horse, and +stop under a bush, to prevent being suffocated. The sand continued to fly +in amazing quantities for near an hour, after which I again set forward, +and travelled with difficulty until ten o'clock. About this time I was +agreeably surprised by some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by +a few heavy drops of rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I +alighted, and spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, which +at length I saw would certainly fall. For more than an hour it rained +plentifully, and I quenched my thirst, by wringing and sucking my +clothes. + +There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged to +lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning +enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled with tolerable +expedition, until past midnight; when the lightning becoming more +distant, I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small +danger of my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my horse started at +something, and, looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a +light at a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a town, +I groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other +appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached, I perceived +a number of other lights in different places, and began to suspect that I +had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my present situation, I was +resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with safety. I +accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the light, and heard by the +lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, that it +was a watering-place, and most likely belonged to the Moors. Delightful +as the sound of the human voice was to me, I resolved once more to strike +into the woods, and rather run the risk of perishing of hunger, than +trust myself again in their hands; but still being thirsty, and dreading +the approach of the burning day, I thought it prudent to search for the +wells, which I expected to find at no great distance. In this pursuit, I +inadvertently approached so near to one of the tents as to be perceived +by a woman, who immediately screamed out. Two people came running to her +assistance from some of the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near +to me that I thought I was discovered, and hastened again into the woods. + +About a mile from this place, I heard a loud and confused noise somewhere +to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to find it was +the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears. I followed +the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow muddy pools, so full +of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the water. The noise they made +frightened my horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by beating the +water with a branch until he had drank. Having here quenched my thirst, I +ascended a tree, and the morning being calm, I soon perceived the smoke +of the watering-place which I had passed in the night; and observed +another pillar of smoke east-south-east, distant 12 or 14 miles. Towards +this I directed my route, and reached the cultivated ground a little +before eleven o'clock where, seeing a number of Negroes at work planting +corn, I inquired the name of the town; and was informed that it was a +Foulah village, belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now some doubts +about entering it; but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day +growing hot, not to mention the pangs of hunger which began to assail me, +I resolved to venture, and accordingly rode up to the Dooty's house, +where I was unfortunately denied admittance, and could not obtain even a +handful of corn either for myself or horse. Turning from this +inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiving some low +scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them; +knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not always +prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these huts, an old +motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton; I made signs to her that I +was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals with her in the hut. She +immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me, in Arabic, to come in. +When I had seated myself upon the floor, she set before me a dish of +kouskous, that had been left the preceding night, of which I made a +tolerable meal; and in return for this kindness I gave her one of my +pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the same time a little corn for my +horse, which she readily brought me. + +Overcome with joy at so unexpected a deliverance, I lifted up my eyes to +heaven, and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude, I returned thanks to +that gracious and bountiful Being, whose power had supported me under so +many dangers, and had now spread for me a table in the Wilderness. + +Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of them +whispered something to my hostess, which very much excited her surprise. +Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language, I soon +discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me back to +Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore tied up the +corn; and lest any one should suspect I had ran away from the Moors, I +took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along, driving my horse +before me, followed by all the boys and girls of the town. When I had +travelled about two miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants, +I struck again into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where +I found it necessary to rest myself; a bundle of twigs serving me for a +bed, and my saddle for a pillow. + +I was awakened about two o'clock by three Foulahs, who, taking me for a +Moor, pointed to the sun, and told me it was time to pray. Without +entering into conversation with them, I saddled my horse and continued my +journey. I travelled over a level, but more fertile country, than I had +seen for some time, until sunset, when, coming to a path that took a +southerly direction, I followed it until midnight, at which time I +arrived at a small pool of rain water, and the wood being open, I +determined to rest by it for the night. Having given my horse the +remainder of the corn, I made my bed as formerly; but the musketoes and +flies from the pool prevented sleep for some time, and I was twice +disturbed in the night by wild beasts, which came very near, and whose +howlings kept the horse in continual terror. + +July 4th. At daybreak I pursued my course through woods as formerly; saw +numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches; but the soil was more +hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding day. About +eleven o'clock I ascended an eminence, where I climbed a tree, and +discovered, at about eight miles distance, an open part of the country, +with several red spots which I concluded were cultivated land; and +directing my course that way, came to the precincts of a watering-place, +about one o'clock. From the appearance of the place, I judged it to +belong to the Foulahs, and was hopeful that I should meet a better +reception than I had experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived; +for one of the shepherds invited me to come into his tent, and partake of +some dates. This was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is room +just sufficient to sit upright, and in which the family, the furniture, +&c. seem huddled together like so many articles in a chest. When I had +crept upon my hands and knees into this humble habitation, I found that +it contained a woman and three children; who, together with the shepherd +and myself, completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled corn and +dates was produced, and the master of the family, as is customary in this +part of the country, first tasted it himself, and then desired me to +follow his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept their eyes +fixed upon me; and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the word +_Nazaram_, than they began to cry, and their mother crept slowly towards +the door, out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly +followed by her children, so frightened were they at the very name of a +Christian, that no entreaties could induce them to approach the tent. +Here I purchased some corn for my horse in exchange for some brass +buttons; and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, struck +again into the woods. At sunset, I came to a road that took the direction +for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but about eight +o'clock, hearing some people coming from the southward, I thought it +prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the road. As these +thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found my situation rather +unpleasant; sitting in the dark, holding my horse by the nose, with both +hands, to prevent him from neighing, and equally afraid of the natives +without and the wild beasts within. My fears, however, were soon +dissipated; for the people, after looking round the thicket, and +perceiving nothing, went away; and I hastened to the more open parts of +the wood, where I pursued my journey E.S.E. until midnight; when the +joyful cry of frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my +route, in order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this, from a +large pool of rain water, I sought for an open place, with a single tree +in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. I was disturbed by +some wolves towards morning, which induced me to set forward a little +before day; and having passed a small village called Wassalita, I came +about ten o'clock (July fifth) to a Negro town called Wawra, which +properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this time tributary to Mansong, +King of Bambarra. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +_The Author proceeds to Wassiboo.--Is joined by some fugitive Kaartans, +who accompany him in his route through Bambarra.--Discovers the +Niger.--Some account of Sego, the capital of Bambarra.--Mansong the King +refuses to see the Author, but sends him a present.--Great hospitality of +a Negro woman._ + + +Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a +mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves +chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for salt. +Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much fatigued, I +resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty welcome from the +Dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bullock's +hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. The curiosity of the people +would not allow me to sleep any longer. They had seen my saddle and +bridle, and were assembled in great numbers to learn who I was, and +whence I came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab; others insisted +that I was some Moorish Sultan; and they continued to debate the matter +with such warmth, that the noise awoke me. The Dooty (who had formerly +been at Gambia) at last interposed in my behalf, and assured them that I +was certainly a white man; but he was convinced, from my appearance, that +I was a very poor one. + +In the course of the day, several women, hearing that I was going to +Sego, came and begged me to inquire of Mansong, the king, what was become +of their children. One woman, in particular, told me that her son's name +was Mamadee; that he was no Heathen, but prayed to God morning and +evening, and had been taken from her about three years ago, by Mansong's +army; since which she had never heard of him. She said, she often dreamed +about him; and begged me, if I should see him, either in Bambarra, or in +my own country, to tell him that his mother and sister were still alive. +In the afternoon, the Dooty examined the contents of the leather bag, in +which I had packed up my clothes; but finding nothing that was worth +taking, he returned it, and told me to depart in the morning. + +July 6th. It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I departed, +in company with a Negro, who was going to a town called Dingyee for corn: +but we had not proceeded above a mile, before the ass upon which he rode +kicked him off, and he returned, leaving me to prosecute the journey by +myself. + +I reached Dingyee about noon; but the Dooty and most of the inhabitants +had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old Foulah, observing me +wandering about the town, desired me to come to his hut, where I was well +entertained; and the Dooty, when he returned, sent me some victuals for +myself, and corn for my horse. + +July 7th. In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord, with a +great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of my hair. He had +been told, he said, that white men's hair made a saphie that would give +to the possessor all the knowledge of white men. I had never before heard +of so simple a mode of education, but instantly complied with the +request; and my landlord's thirst for learning was such, that, with +cutting and pulling, he cropped one side of my head pretty closely; and +would have done the same with the other, had I not signified my +disapprobation by putting on my hat, and assuring him, that I wished to +reserve some of this precious merchandize for a future occasion. + +I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o'clock, where I was +obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of procuring a guide to +Satile, which is distant a very long day's journey, through woods without +any beaten path. I accordingly took up my residence at the Dooty's house, +where I staid four days; during which time I amused myself by going to +the fields with the family to plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here +on a very extensive scale; and, as the natives themselves express it, +"hunger is never known." In cultivating the soil, the men and women work +together. They use a large sharp hoe, much superior to that used in +Gambia; but they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms +with them to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, marks +the field into regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three +slaves. + +On the evening of the 11th, eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at +Wassiboo.--They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical +government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their allegiance +to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along with them as far +as Satile; and I accepted the offer. + +July 12th. At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon expedition +until sunset: we stopped only twice in the course of the day; once at a +watering-place in the woods, and another time at the ruins of a town +formerly belonging to Daisy, called _Illa Compe_, (the corn town). When +we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satile, the people who were employed +in the corn fields, seeing so many horsemen, took us for a party of +Moors, and ran screaming away from us. The whole town was instantly +alarmed, the slaves were seen, in every direction, driving the cattle and +horses towards the town. It was in vain that one of our company galloped +up to undeceive them: it only frightened them the more; and when we +arrived at the town, we found the gates shut, and the people all under +arms. After a long parley, we were permitted to enter and, as there was +every appearance of a heavy tornado, the Dooty allowed us to sleep in his +saloon, and gave us each a bullock's hide for a bed. + +July 13th. Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were wet +and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with +rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. About ten +o'clock we came to the ruins of a village, which had been destroyed by +war about six months before; and in order to prevent any town from being +built there in future, the large Bentang tree, under which the natives +spent the day, had been burnt down; the wells filled up; and every thing +that could make the spot desirable completely destroyed. + +About noon, my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep up with +my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to ride on, +telling them, that I would follow as soon as my horse had rested a +little. But I found them unwilling to leave me; the lions, they said, +were very numerous in those parts, and though they might not so readily +attack a body of people, they would soon find out an individual. It was +therefore agreed that one of the company should stay with me, to assist +in driving my horse, while the others passed on to Galloo, to procure +lodgings, and collect grass for the horses before night. Accompanied by +this worthy Negro, I drove my horse before me until about four o'clock, +when we came in sight of Galloo, a considerable town, standing in a +fertile and beautiful valley, surrounded with high rocks. + +As my companions had thoughts of settling in this neighbourhood, they had +a fine sheep given them by the Dooty; and I was fortunate enough to +procure plenty of corn for my horse. Here they blow upon elephants' teeth +when they announce evening prayers, in the same manner as at Kemmoo. + +Early next morning, (July 14th,) having first returned many thanks to our +landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow travellers offered up their +prayers that he might never want, we set forward, and about three o'clock +arrived at Moorja, a large town famous for its trade in salt, which the +Moors bring here in great quantities, to exchange for corn and cotton +cloth. As most of the people here are Mahomedans, it is not allowed to +the Kafirs to drink beer, which they call _Neo-dollo_ (corn spirit) +except in certain houses. In one of these I saw about twenty people +sitting round large vessels of this beer, with the greatest conviviality, +many of them in a state of intoxication. As corn is plentiful, the +inhabitants are very liberal to strangers. I believe we had as much corn +and milk sent us by different people as would have been sufficient for +three times our number; and though we remained here two days, we +experienced no diminution of their hospitality. + +On the morning of the 16th we again set forward, accompanied by a coffle +of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. The road was +particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the Moors sometimes +lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as we had reached the open +country, the master of the salt coffle thanked us for having staid with +him so long, and now desired us to ride on. The sun was almost set before +we reached Datliboo. In the evening we had a most tremendous tornado. The +house in which we lodged, being flat-roofed, admitted the rain in +streams; the floor was soon ankle deep, the fire extinguished, and we +were left to pass the night upon some bundles of fire wood, that happened +to lie in a corner. + +July 17th. We departed from Datliboo; and about ten o'clock passed a +large coffle returning from Sego, with corn hoes, mats, and other +household utensils. At five o'clock we came to a large village, where we +intended to pass the night, but the Dooty would not receive us. When we +departed from this place, my horse was so much fatigued that I was under +the necessity of driving him, and it was dark before we reached Fanimboo, +a small village; the Dooty of which no sooner heard that I was a white +man, than he brought out three old muskets, and was much disappointed, +when he was told that I could not repair them. + +July 18th. We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper the +preceding night, we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and +endeavoured to procure some corn at a village; but without success. The +towns were now more numerous, and the land that is not employed in +cultivation affords excellent pasturage for large herds of cattle; but +owing to the great concourse of people daily going to and returning from +Sego, the inhabitants are less hospitable to strangers. + +My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very little +service to me. I was obliged to drive him before me for the greater part +of the day; and did not reach Geosorro until eight o'clock in the +evening. I found my companions wrangling with the Dooty, who had +absolutely refused to give or sell them any provisions; and as none of us +had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours, we were by no means +disposed to fast another day if we could help it. But finding our +entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell asleep, +from which I was awakened about midnight, with the joyful information +"_kinnenata_" (the victuals are come.) This made the remainder of the +night pass away pleasantly; and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our +journey, proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo, for the +night following. My fellow-travellers having better horses than myself, +soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my horse, when I was +met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy in number, coming from Sego. +They were tied together by their necks with thongs of a bullock's hide +twisted like a rope; seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket +between every seven. Many of the slaves were ill-conditioned, and a great +number of them women. In the rear came Sidi, Mahomed's servant, whom I +remembered to have seen at the camp of Benowm: he presently knew me, and +told me that these slaves were going to Morocco, by the way of Ludamar, +and the Great Desert. + +In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty Moors +on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the morning; they +were well armed with muskets, and were very inquisitive concerning me, +but not so rude as their countrymen generally are. From them I learned +that Sidi Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-dust. + +When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo, I was informed that my fellow-travellers +had gone on; but my horse was so much fatigued that I could not possibly +proceed after them. The Dooty of the town, at my request, gave me a +draught of water, which is generally looked upon as an earnest of greater +hospitality, and I had no doubt of making up for the toils of the day by +a good supper and a sound sleep. Unfortunately, I had neither one nor the +other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the Dooty limited his +hospitality to the draught of water. + +July 20th. In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and threats, +to procure some victuals from the Dooty, but in vain. I even begged some +corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing it at the well, +and had the mortification to be refused. However, when the Dooty was gone +to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of meal, which I mixed with +water and drank for breakfast. About eight o'clock I departed from +Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a few minutes at a large Korree, where +I had some milk given me by the Foulahs. And hearing that two Negroes +were going from thence to Sego, I was happy to have their company, and we +set out immediately. About four o'clock we stopped at a small village, +where one of the Negroes met with an acquaintance who invited us to a +sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than common +propriety. A dish made of sour milk and meal, called _Sinkatoo_, and beer +made from their corn, was distributed with great liberality; and the +women were admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before +observed in Africa. There was no compulsion, every one was at liberty to +drink as he pleased; they nodded to each other when about to drink, and +on setting down the calabash, commonly said _berka_, (thank you). Both +men and women appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from +being quarrelsome. + +Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was +constantly taken for a Moor, and became the subject of much merriment to +the Bambarrans; who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed heartily +at my appearance. He has been at Mecca, says one, you may see that by his +clothes; another asked me if my horse was sick; a third wished to +purchase it, &c., so that I believe the very slaves were ashamed to be +seen in my company. Just before it was dark, we took up our lodging for +the night at a small village, where I procured some victuals for myself +and some corn for my horse, at the moderate price of a button; and was +told that I should see the Niger (which the Negroes call Joliba, or _the +great water_) early the next day. The lions are here very numerous. The +gates are shut a little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The +thoughts of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing +of musketoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night; and I +had saddled my horse and was in readiness before daylight; but, on +account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until the people were +stirring, and the gates opened. This happened to be a market-day at Sego, +and the roads were every where filled with people carrying different +articles to sell. We passed four large villages, and at eight o'clock saw +the smoke over Sego. + +As we approached the town, I was fortunate enough to overtake the +fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted on my +journey through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce me to the +king; and we rode together through some marshy ground, where, as I was +anxiously looking around for the river, one of them called out _qeo +affili_, (see the water,) and looking forwards, I saw with infinite +pleasure the great object of my mission, the long sought for majestic +Niger glittering to the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at +Westminster, and flowing slowly _to the eastward_. I hastened to the +brink, and having drank of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in +prayer to the Great Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned my +endeavours with success. + +The circumstance of the Niger's flowing towards the east and its +collateral points did not, however, excite my surprise; for although I +had left Europe in great hesitation on this subject, and rather believed +that it ran in the contrary direction, I had made such frequent inquiries +during my progress concerning this river, and received from Negroes of +different nations such clear and decisive assurances that its general +course was _towards the rising sun_, as scarce left any doubt on my mind; +and more especially, as I knew that Major Houghton had collected similar +information in the same manner. + +Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, consists, +properly speaking, of four distinct towns; two on the northern bank of +the Niger, called Sego Korro, and Sego Boo; and two on the southern bank, +called Sego Soo Korro, and Sego See Korro. They are all surrounded with +high mud walls; the houses are built of clay, of a square form, with flat +roofs; some of them have two stories, and many of them are white-washed. +Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are seen in every quarter, and +the streets, though narrow, are broad enough for every useful purpose in +a country where wheel carriages are entirely unknown. From the best +inquiries I could make, I have reason to believe that Sego contains +altogether about thirty thousand inhabitants. The king of Bambarra +constantly resides at Sego See Korro; he employs a great many slaves in +conveying people over the river, and the money they receive (though the +fare is only ten Kowrie shells for each individual) furnishes a +considerable revenue to the king in the course of a year. The canoes are +of a singular construction, each of them being formed of the trunks of +two large trees, rendered concave, and joined together, not side by side, +but end-ways, the junction being exactly across the middle of the canoe; +they are, therefore, very long and disproportionately narrow, and have +neither decks nor masts. They are however, very roomy, for I observed in +one of them four horses and several people crossing over the river. When +we arrived at this ferry, with a view to pass over to that part of the +town in which the king resides, we found a great number waiting for a +passage; they looked at me with silent wonder, and I distinguished with +concern many Moors among them. There were three different places of +embarkation, and the ferrymen were very diligent and expeditious; but +from the crowd of people, I could not immediately obtain a passage, and +sat down upon the bank of the river to wait for a more favourable +opportunity. The view of this extensive city, the numerous canoes upon +the river, the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the +surrounding country, formed altogether a prospect of civilization and +magnificence, which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa. + +I waited more than two hours without having an opportunity of crossing +the river; during which time the people who had crossed carried +information to Mausong the King, that a white man was waiting for a +passage, and was coming to see him. He immediately sent over one of his +chief men, who informed me that the king could not possibly see me, until +he knew what had brought me into his country; and that I must not presume +to cross the river without the king's permission. He therefore advised me +to lodge at a distant village, to which he pointed, for the night; and +said that in the morning he would give me further instructions how to +conduct myself. This was very discouraging. However, as there was no +remedy, I set off for the village; where I found, to my great +mortification, that no person would admit me into his house. I was +regarded with astonishment and fear, and was obliged to sit all day +without victuals in the shade of a tree; and the night threatened to be +very uncomfortable, for the wind rose, and the was great appearance of a +heavy rain; and the wild beasts are so very numerous in the +neighbourhood, that I should have been under the necessity of climbing up +the tree and resting among the branches. About sunset, however, as I was +preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse +loose, that he might graze at liberty, a woman, returning from the +labours of the field, stopped to observe me, and perceiving that I was +weary and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly explained +to her: whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took up my saddle +and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted me into her hut, +she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and told me I might +remain there for the night. Finding that I was very hungry, she said she +would procure me something to eat. She accordingly went out, and returned +in a short time with a very fine fish; which having caused to be half +broiled upon some embers, she gave me for supper. The rites of +hospitality being thus performed towards a stranger in distress, my +worthy benefactress (pointing to the mat, and telling me I might sleep +there without apprehension) called to the female part of her family, who +had stood gazing on me all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume +their task of spinning cotton; in which they continued to employ +themselves great part of the night. They lightened their labour by songs, +one of which was composed extempore; for I was myself the subject of it. +It was sung by one of the young women, the rest joined in a sort of +chorus. The air was sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally +translated were these: + + "The winds roared, and the rains fell. + The poor white man, faint and weary, + Came and sat under our tree. + He has no mother to bring him milk; + No wife to grind his corn." + + _Chorus_, "Let us pity the white man: + No mother has he," &c. &c. + +Trifling as this recital may appear to the reader, to a person in my +situation, the circumstance was affecting in the highest degree. + +I was oppressed by such unexpected kindness, and sleep fled from my eyes. +In the morning I presented my compassionate landlady with two of the four +brass buttons which remained on my waistcoat; the only recompence I could +make her. + +July 21st. I continued in the village all this day in conversation with +the natives, who came in crowds to see me; but was rather uneasy towards +evening, to find that no message had arrived from the king; the more so, +as the people began to whisper, that Mansong had received some very +unfavourable accounts of me, from the Moors and Slatees residing at Sego; +who it seems were exceedingly suspicious concerning the motives of my +journey. I learned that many consultations had been held with the king +concerning my reception and disposal; and some of the villagers frankly +told me, that I had many enemies, and must expect no favour. + +July 22d. About eleven o'clock, a messenger arrived from the king, but he +gave me very little satisfaction. He inquired particularly if I had +brought any present; and seemed much disappointed when he was told that I +had been robbed of every thing by the Moors. When I proposed to go along +with him, he told me to stop until the afternoon, when the king would +send for me. + +[Illustration: NEGRO SONG from Mr. PARK'S TRAVELS. + +_THE WORDS BY THE DUTCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE_. + +_THE MUSIC BY G.G. FERRARI_. + + I. + + The loud wind roar'd, the rain fell fast; + The White Man yielded to the blast: + He sat him down, beneath our tree; + For weary, sad, and faint was he; + And ah, no wife, or mother's care, + For him, the milk or corn prepare. + + CHORUS. + + _The White Man, shall our pity share; + Alas, no wife or mother's care, + For him, the milk or corn prepare._ + + II. + + The storm is o'er; the tempest past; + And Mercy's voice has hush'd the blast, + The wind is heard in whispers low; + The White Man far away must go;-- + But ever in his heart will bear + Remembrance of the Negro's care. + + CHORUS. + + _Go, White Man, go;--but with thee bear + The Negro's wish, the Negro's prayer; + Remembrance of the Negro's care._] + +July 23d. In the afternoon another messenger arrived from Mansong, with a +bag in his hands. He told me it was the king's pleasure that I should +depart forthwith from the vicinage of Sego; but that Mansong, wishing to +relieve a white man in distress, had sent me five thousand Kowries,[12] to +enable me to purchase provisions in the course of my journey; the +messenger added, that if my intentions were really to proceed to Jenne, +he had orders to accompany me as a guide to Sansanding. I was, at first, +puzzled to account for this behaviour of the king; but from the +conversation I had with the guide, I had afterwards reason to believe +that Mansong would willingly have admitted me into his presence at Sego; +but was apprehensive he might not be able to protect me against the blind +and inveterate malice of the Moorish inhabitants. His conduct, therefore, +was at once prudent and liberal. The circumstances under which I made my +appearance at Sego were undoubtedly such as might create in the mind of +the king a well warranted suspicion that I wished to conceal the true +object of my journey. He argued, probably, as my guide argued, who, when +he was told that I had come from a great distance, and through many +dangers, to behold the Joliba river, naturally inquired, if there were no +rivers in my own country, and whether one river was not like another. +Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the jealous machinations of the +Moors, this benevolent prince thought it sufficient, that a white man was +found in his dominions, in a condition of extreme wretchedness; and that +no other plea was necessary to entitle the sufferer to his bounty. + + [12] Mention has already been made of these little shells, (p. 23 + [At the end of chapter II. Transcriber.]) which pass current as money + in many parts of the East Indies as well as Africa. In Bambarra, and + the adjacent countries, where the necessaries of life are very cheap, + one hundred of them would commonly purchase a day's provisions for + myself, and corn for my horse. I reckoned about two hundred and fifty + Kowries equal to one shilling. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +_Departure from Sego, and arrival at Kabba.--Description of the shea, or +vegetable butter tree.--The Author and his guide arrive at +Sansanding.--Behaviour of the Moors at that place.--The Author pursues +his journey to the eastward.--Incidents on the road.--Arrives at Modiboo, +and proceeds for Kea; but obliged to leave his horse by the way.--Embarks +at Kea in a fisherman's canoe for Moorzan; is conveyed from thence across +the Niger to Silla--determines to proceed no further eastward.--Some +account of the further course of the Niger, and the towns in its +vicinage, towards the East._ + + +Being, in the manner that has been related; compelled to leave Sego, I +was conducted the same evening to a village about seven miles to the +eastward, with some of the inhabitants of which my guide was acquainted, +and by whom we were well received.[13] He was very friendly and +communicative, and spoke highly of the hospitality of his countrymen; but +withal told me, that if Jenne was the place of my destination, which he +seemed to have hitherto doubted, I had undertaken an enterprise of +greater danger than probably I was apprized of; for, although the town of +Jenne was nominally a part of the King of Bambarra's dominions, it was, +in fact, he said, a city of the Moors; the leading part of the +inhabitants being Bushreens, and even the governor himself, though +appointed by Mansong, of the same sect. Thus was I in danger of falling a +second time into the hands of men who would consider it not only +justifiable; but meritorious, to destroy me; and this reflection was +aggravated by the circumstance that the danger increased as I advanced in +my journey; for I learned that the places beyond Jenne were under the +Moorish influence, in a still greater degree than Jenne itself; and +Tombuctoo, the great object of my search, altogether in possession of +that savage and merciless people, who allow no Christian to live there. +But I had now advanced too far to think of returning to the westward, on +such vague and uncertain information, and determined to proceed; and +being accompanied by the guide, I departed from the village on the +morning of the 24th. About eight o'clock, we passed a large town called +Kabba, situated in the midst of a beautiful and highly cultivated +country; bearing a greater resemblance to the centre of England, than to +what I should have supposed had been the middle of Africa. The people +were everywhere employed in collecting the fruit of the Shea trees, from +which they prepare the vegetable butter, mentioned in former parts of +this work. These trees grow in great abundance all over this part of +Bambarra. They are not planted by the natives, but are found growing +naturally in the woods; and in clearing wood land for cultivation, every +tree is cut down but the Shea. The tree itself very much resembles the +American oak; and the fruit, from the kernel of which, being first dried +in the sun, the butter is prepared by boiling the kernel in water, has +somewhat the appearance of a Spanish olive. The kernel is enveloped in a +sweet pulp under a thin green rind; and the butter produced from it, +besides the advantage of its keeping the whole year without salt, is +whiter, firmer, and, to my palate, of a richer flavour than the best +butter I ever tasted made from cow's milk. The growth and preparation of +this commodity seem to be among the first objects of African industry in +this and the neighbouring states; and it constitutes a main article of +their inland commerce. + + [13] I should have before observed, that I found the language of + Bambarra a sort of corrupted Mandingo. After a little practice, I + understood and spoke it without difficulty. + +We passed, in the course of the day, a great many villages, inhabited +chiefly by fishermen; and in the evening about five o'clock arrived at +Sansanding, a very large town, containing, as I was told, from eight to +ten thousand inhabitants. This place is much resorted to by the Moors, +who bring salt from Beeroo, and beads and coral from the Mediterranean, +to exchange here for gold-dust and cotton-cloth. This cloth they sell to +great advantage in Beeroo, and other Moorish countries, where, on account +of the want of rain, no cotton is cultivated. + +I desired my guide to conduct me to the house in which we were to lodge, +by the most private way possible. We accordingly rode along between the +town and the river, passing by a creek or harbour, in which I observed +twenty large canoes, most of them fully loaded, and covered with mats, to +prevent the rain from injuring the goods. As we proceeded, three other +canoes arrived, two with passengers, and one with goods. I was happy to +find that all the Negro inhabitants, took me for a Moor; under which +character I should probably have passed unmolested, had not a Moor, who +was sitting by the river side, discovered the mistake, and setting up a +loud exclamation, brought together a number of his countrymen. + +When I arrived at the house of Counti Mamadi, the Dooty of the town, I +was surrounded with hundreds of people, speaking a variety of different +dialects, all equally unintelligible to me. At length, by the assistance +of my guide, who acted as interpreter, I understood that one of the +spectators pretended to have seen me at one place, and another at some +other place; and a Moorish woman absolutely swore that she had kept my +house three years at. Gallam, on the river Senegal. It was plain that +they mistook me for some other person; and I desired two of the most +confident to point towards the place where they had seen me. They pointed +due south; hence I think it probable that they came from Cape Coast, +where they might have seen many white men. Their language was different +from any I had yet heard. The Moors now assembled in great numbers; with +their usual arrogance, compelling the Negroes to stand at a distance. +They immediately began to question me concerning my religion; but finding +that I was not master of the Arabic, they sent for two men, whom they +call _Ilhuidi_ (Jews), in hopes that they might be able to converse with +me. These Jews, in dress and appearance, very much resemble the Arabs; +but though they so far conform to the religion of Mahomet, as to recite, +in public, prayers from the Koran, they are but little respected by the +Negroes; and even the Moors themselves allowed, that though I was a +Christian, I was a better man than a Jew. They, however, insisted that, +like the Jews, I must conform so far as to repeat the Mahomedan prayers; +and when I attempted to waive the subject, by telling them that I could +not speak Arabic, one of them, a Shereef from Tuat, in the Great Desert, +started up and swore by the Prophet, that if I refused to go to the +mosque, he would be one that would assist in carrying me thither. And +there is no doubt but this threat would have been immediately executed, +had not my landlord interposed in my behalf. He told them that I was the +king's stranger, and he could not see me ill treated, whilst I was under +his protection. He therefore advised them to let me alone for the night; +assuring them that in the morning I should be sent about my business. +This somewhat appeased their clamour; but they compelled me to ascend a +high seat, by the door of the mosque, in order that every body might see +me; for the people had assembled in such numbers as to be quite +ungovernable; climbing upon the houses, and squeezing each other, like +the spectators at an execution. Upon this seat I remained until sunset, +when I was conducted into a neat little hut, with a small court before +it; the door of which Counti Mamadi shut, to prevent any person from +disturbing me. But this precaution could not exclude the Moors. They +climbed over the top of the mud-wall, and came in crowds into the court, +in order, they said, to see me _perform my evening devotions, and eat +eggs_. The former of these ceremonies I did not think proper to comply +with; but I told them I had no objection to eat eggs, provided they would +bring me eggs to eat. My landlord immediately brought me seven hen's +eggs, and was much surprised to find that I could not eat them raw; for +it seems to be a prevalent opinion among the inhabitants of the interior, +that Europeans subsist almost entirely on this diet. When I had succeeded +in persuading my landlord that this opinion was without foundation, and +that I would gladly partake of any victuals which he might think proper +to send me, he ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it to be dressed +for my supper. About midnight, when the Moors had left me, he paid me a +visit, and with much earnestness desired me to write him a saphie. "If a +Moor's saphie is good, (said this hospitable old man,) a white man's must +needs be better." I readily furnished him with one, possessed of all the +virtues I could concentrate; for it contained the Lord's Prayer. The pen +with which it was written was made of a reed; a little charcoal and +gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a thin board answered the purpose +of paper. + +July 25th. Early in the morning, before the Moors were assembled, I +departed from Sansanding, and slept the ensuing night at a small town +called Sibili; from whence, on the day following, I reached Nyara, a +large town at some distance from the river, where I halted the 27th, to +have my clothes washed, and recruit my horse. The Dooty there has a very +commodious house, flat roofed, and two stories high. He showed me some +gunpowder of his own manufacturing, and pointed out as a great curiosity +a little brown monkey, that was tied to a stake by the door, telling me +that it came from a far distant country, called Kong. + +July 28th. I departed from Nyara, and reached Nyamee about noon. This +town is inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, from the kingdom of Masina. The +Dooty (I know not why) would not receive me, but civilly sent his son on +horseback, to conduct me to Modiboo; which, he assured me, was at no +great distance. + +We rode nearly in a direct line through the woods; but in general went +forwards with great circumspection. I observed that my guide frequently +stopped, and looked under the bushes. On inquiring the reason of this +caution, he told me that lions were very numerous in that part of the +country, and frequently attacked people travelling through the woods. +While he was speaking, my horse started, and looking round, I observed a +large animal of the cameleopard kind, standing at a little distance. The +neck and fore legs were very long; the head was furnished with two short +black horns, turning backwards; the tail, which reached down to the ham +joint, had a tuft of hair at the end. The animal was of a mouse colour; +and it trotted away from us in a very sluggish manner; moving its head +from side to side, to see if we were pursuing it. Shortly after this, as +we were crossing a large open plain, where there were a few scattered +bushes, my guide, who was a little way before me, wheeled his horse round +in a moment, calling out something in the Foulah language, which I did +not understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant; _Wara billi billi_, +a very large lion, said he; and made signs for me to ride away. But my +horse was too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush, from which +the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing any thing myself, however, +I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his +hand to his mouth, exclaiming _Soubah an alluhi_ (God preserve us!), and +to my great surprise I then perceived a large red lion, at a short +distance from the bush, with his head couched between his fore paws. I +expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctively pulled my +feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse might +become the victim, rather than myself. But it is probable the lion was +not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass, though we were fairly +within his reach. My eyes were so rivetted upon this sovereign of the +beasts, that I found it impossible to remove them, until we were at a +considerable distance. We now took a circuitous route, through some +swampy ground, to avoid any more of these disagreeable rencounters. At +sunset we arrived at Modiboo, a delightful village on the banks of the +Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles, both to the east +and west. The small green islands, (the peaceful retreat of some +industrious Foulahs, whose cattle are here secure from the depredations +of wild beasts,) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here +much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most enchanting +in the world. Here are caught great plenty of fish, by means of long +cotton nets, which the natives make themselves, and use nearly in the +same manner as nets are used in Europe. I observed the head of a +crocodile lying upon one of the houses, which they told me had been +killed by the shepherds in a swamp near the town. These animals are not +uncommon in the Niger; but I believe they are not oftentimes found +dangerous. They are of little account to the traveller, when compared +with the amazing swarms of musquetoes, which rise from the swamps and +creeks, in such numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the natives; +and as my clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared to +resist their attacks. I usually passed the night without shutting my +eyes, walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself with my hat; their +stings raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms; which, together with +the want of rest, made me very feverish and uneasy. + +July 29th. Early in the morning, my landlord observing that I was sickly, +hurried me away; sending a servant with me as a guide to Kea. But though +I was little able to walk, my horse was still less able to carry me; and +about six miles to the east of Modiboo, in crossing some rough clayey +ground, he fell; and the united strength of the guide and myself could +not place him again upon his legs. I sat down for some time, beside this +worn-out associate of my adventures; but finding him still unable to +rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity of grass +before him. I surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on the ground, +with sympathetic emotion; for I could not suppress the sad apprehension, +that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish in the same +manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding, I left my poor +horse, and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot, along the +bank of the river, until about noon; when we reached Kea, which I found +to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The Dooty, a surly old +man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very coolly; and when I +informed him of my situation, and begged his protection, told me, with +great indifference, that he paid very little attention to fine speeches, +and that I should not enter his house. My guide remonstrated in my +favour, but to no purpose; for the Dooty remained inflexible in his +determination, I knew not where to rest my wearied limbs, but was happily +relieved by a fishing canoe, belonging to Silla, which was at that moment +coming down the river. The Dooty waved to the fisherman to come near, and +desired him to take, charge of me as far as Moorzan. The fisherman, after +some hesitation, consented to carry me; and I embarked in the canoe, in +company with the fisherman, his wife, and a boy. The Negro who had +conducted me from Modiboo now left me; I requested him to look to my +horse on his return, and take care of him if he was still alive, which he +promised to do. + +Departing from Kea, we proceeded about a mile down the river, when the +fisherman paddled the canoe to the bank, and desired me to jump out. +Having tied the canoe to a stake, he stripped off his clothes, and dived +for such a length of time, that I thought he had actually drowned +himself, and was surprised to see his wife behave with so much +indifference upon the occasion; but my fears were over when he raised up +his head astern of the canoe, and called for a rope. With this rope he +dived a second time, and then got into the canoe, and ordered the boy to +assist him in pulling. At length they brought up a large basket, about +ten feet in diameter, containing two fine fish, which the fisherman +(after returning the basket into the water) immediately carried ashore, +and hid in the grass. We then went a little further down, and took up +another basket, in which was one fish. The fisherman now left us, to +carry his prizes to some neighbouring market; and the woman and boy +proceeded with me in the canoe down the river. + +About four o'clock we arrived at Moorzan, a fishing town on the northern +bank; from whence I was conveyed across the river to Silla, a large town; +where I remained until it was quite dark, under a tree, surrounded by +hundreds of people. But their language was very different from the other +parts of Bambarra: and I was informed that in my progress eastward, the +Bambarra tongue was but little understood, and that when I reached Jenne, +I should find that the majority of the inhabitants spoke a different +language, called _Jenne Kummo_ by the Negroes; and _Kalam Soudan_ by the +Moors. + +With a great deal of entreaty the Dooty allowed me to come into his +baloon, to avoid the rain, but the place was very damp, and I had a smart +paroxysm of fever during the night. Worn down by sickness, exhausted with +hunger and fatigue, half naked, and without any article of value, by +which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging, I began to reflect +seriously on my situation. I was now convinced, by painful experience, +that the obstacles to my further progress were insurmountable. The +tropical rains were already set in, with all their violence, the rice +grounds and swamps were everywhere overflowed, and, in a few days more, +travelling of every kind, unless by water, would be completely +obstructed. The kowries which remained of the King of Bambarra's present, +were not sufficient to enable me to hire a canoe for any great distance; +and I had but little hopes of subsisting by charity, in a country where +the Moors have such influence. But about all, I perceived that I was +advancing more and more within the power of those merciless fanatics; and +from my reception both at Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive that, +in attempting to reach even Jenne, (unless under the protection of some +man of consequence amongst them, which I had no means of obtaining,) I +should sacrifice my life to no purpose, for my discoveries would perish +with me. The prospect either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia, +a journey on foot of many hundred miles, presented itself to my +contemplation, through regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this +seemed to be the only alternative; for I saw inevitable destruction, in +attempting to proceed to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind, I +hope my readers will acknowledge, that I did right in going no farther. I +had made every effort to execute my mission in its fullest extent, which +prudence could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect of a +successful termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey, +nor the dangers of a second captivity, should have forced me to desist. +This, however, necessity compelled me to do; and whatever may be the +opinion of my general readers on this point, it affords me inexpressible +satisfaction, that my honourable employers have been pleased, since my +return, to express their full approbation of my conduct. + +Having thus brought my mind, after much doubt and perplexity, to a +determination to return westward, I thought it incumbent on me, before I +left Silla, to collect from the Moorish and Negro traders all the +information I could, concerning the further course of the Niger eastward, +and the situation and extent of the kingdoms in its vicinage; and the +following few notices I received from such various quarters, as induce me +to think they are authentic. + +Two short days journey to the eastward of Silla is the town of Jenne, +which is situated on a small island in the river, and is said to contain +a greater number of inhabitants than Sego itself, or any other town in +Bambarra. At the distance of two days more, the river spreads into a +considerable lake, called _Dibbe_ (or the dark lake), concerning the +extent of which all the information I could obtain was, that in crossing +it, from west to east, the canoes lose sight of land one whole day. From +this lake the water issues in many different streams, which terminate in +two large branches, one whereof flows towards the north-east, and the +other to the east; but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day's +journey to the southward of Tombuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place +of that city. The tract of land which the two streams encircle is called +Jinbala, and is inhabited by Negroes; and the whole distance, by land, +from Jenne to Tombuctoo, is twelve days journey. + +From Kabra, at the distance of eleven days' journey, down the stream, the +river passes to the southward of Houssa, which is two days journey +distant from the river. Of the further progress of this great river and +its final exit, all the natives with whom I conversed seemed to be +entirely ignorant. Their commercial pursuits seldom induce them to travel +further than the cities of Tombuctoo and Houssa; and as the sole object +of those journeys is the acquirement of wealth, they pay but little +attention to the course of rivers, or the geography of countries. It is, +however, highly probable that the Niger affords a safe and easy +communication between very remote nations. All my informants agreed, that +many of the Negro merchants who arrive at Tombuctoo and Houssa, from the +eastward, speak a different language from that of Bambarra, or any other +kingdom with which they are acquainted. But even these merchants, it +would seem, are ignorant of the termination of the river, for such of +them as can speak Arabic, describe the amazing length of its course in +very general terms, saying only that they believe it _runs to the world's +end_. + +The names of many kingdoms to the eastward of Houssa are familiar to the +inhabitants of Bambarra. I was shown quivers and arrows of very curious +workmanship, which I was informed came from the kingdom of Kassina. + +On the northern bank of the Niger, at a short distance from Silla, is the +kingdom of Masina, which is inhabited by Foulahs. They employ themselves +there, as in other places, chiefly in pasturage, and pay an annual +tribute to the King of Bambarra for the lands which they occupy. + +To the north-east of Masina is situated the kingdom of Tombuctoo, the +great object of European research, the capital of this kingdom being one +of the principal marts for that extensive commerce which the Moors carry +on with the Negroes. The hopes of acquiring wealth in this pursuit, and +zeal for propagating their religion, have filled this extensive city with +Moors and Mahomedan converts; the king himself, and all the chief +officers of state, are Moors, and they are said to be more severe and +intolerant in their principles than any other of the Moorish tribes in +this part of Africa. I was informed by a venerable old Negro, that when +he first visited Tombuctoo, he took up his lodging at a sort of public +inn, the landlord of which, when he conducted him into his hut, spread a +mat on the floor, and laid a rope upon it, saying, "If you are a +Mussulman you are my friend, sit down; but if you are a Kafir, you are my +slave, and with this rope I will lead you to market." The present King of +Tombuctoo is named _Abu Abrahima_; he is reported to possess immense +riches. His wives and concubines are said to be clothed in silk, and the +chief officers of state live in considerable splendour. The whole expense +of his government is defrayed, as I was told, by a tax upon merchandize, +which is collected at the gates of the city. + +The city of Houssa (the capital of a large kingdom of the same name, +situated to the eastward of Tombuctoo) is another great mart for Moorish +commerce. I conversed with many merchants who had visited that city, and +they all agreed that it is larger and more populous than Tombuctoo. The +trade, police, and government, are nearly the same in both; but in Houssa +the Negroes are in greater proportion to the Moors, and have some share +in the government. + +Concerning the small kingdom of Jinbala, I was not able to collect much +information. The soil is said to be remarkably fertile, and the whole +country so full of creeks and swamps, that the Moors have hitherto been +baffled in every attempt to subdue it. The inhabitants are Negroes, and +some of them are said to live in considerable affluence, particularly +those near the capital, which is a resting-place for such merchants as +transport goods from Tombuctoo to the western parts of Africa. + +To the southward of Jinbala is situated the Negro kingdom of Gotto, which +is said to be of great extent. It was formerly divided into a number of +petty states which were governed by their own chiefs; but their private +quarrels invited invasion from the neighbouring kingdoms. At length a +politic chief, of the name of Moosee, had address enough to make them +unite in hostilities against Bambarra; and on this occasion he was +unanimously chosen general, the different chiefs consenting for a time to +act under his command. Moosee immediately dispatched a fleet of canoes, +loaded with provisions, from the banks of the lake Dibbe up the Niger +towards Jenne, and with the whole of his army pushed forwards into +Bambarra. He arrived on the banks of the Niger opposite to Jenne, before +the townspeople had the smallest intimation of his approach. His fleet of +canoes joined him the same day, and having landed the provisions, he +embarked part of his army, and in the night took Jenne by storm. This +event so terrified the King of Bambarra, that he sent messengers to sue +for peace, and in order to obtain it, consented to deliver to Moosee a +certain number of slaves every year, and return every thing that had been +taken from the inhabitants of Gotto. Moosee, thus triumphant, returned to +Gotto, where he was declared king, and the capital of the country is +called by his name. + +On the west of Gotto is the kingdom of Baedoo, which was conquered by the +present King of Bambarra about seven years ago, and has continued +tributary to him ever since. + +West of Baedoo is Maniana, the inhabitants of which, according to the +best information I was able to collect, are cruel and ferocious, carrying +their resentment towards their enemies so far, as never to give quarter, +and even to indulge themselves with unnatural and disgusting banquets of +human flesh. + +I am well aware that the accounts which the Negroes give of their enemies +ought to be received with great caution; but I heard the same account in +so many different kingdoms, and from such variety of people, whose +veracity I had no occasion to suspect, that I am disposed to allow it +some degree of credit. The inhabitants of Bambarra, in the course of a +long and bloody war, must have had frequent opportunities of satisfying +themselves as to the fact; and if the report had been entirely without +foundation, I cannot conceive why the term _Madummulo_ (man-eaters) +should be applied exclusively to the inhabitants of Maniana. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +_The Author returns westward.--Arrives at Modiboo, and recovers his +horse.--Finds great difficulty in travelling in consequence of the rains, +and the overflowing of the river.--Is informed that the King of Bambarra +had sent persons to apprehend him.--Avoids Sego, and prosecutes his +journey along the banks of the Niger.--Incidents on the road.--Cruelties +attendant on African wars.--The Author crosses the river Frina, and +arrives at Tafiara._ + + +Having, for the reasons assigned in the last chapter, determined to +proceed no farther eastward than Silla, I acquainted the Dooty with my +intention of returning to Sego, proposing to travel along the southern +side of the river; but he informed me, that, from the number of creeks +and swamps on that side, it was impossible to travel by any other route +than along the northern bank; and even that route, he said, would soon be +impassable, on account of the overflowing of the river. However, as he +commended my determination to return westward, he agreed to speak to some +one of the fishermen to carry me over to Moorzan. I accordingly stepped +into a canoe about eight o'clock in the morning of July 30th, and in +about an hour was landed at Moorzan. At this place I hired a canoe for +sixty kowries, and in the afternoon arrived at Kea; where, for forty +kowries more, the Dooty permitted me to sleep in the same hut with one of +his slaves. This poor Negro, perceiving that I was sickly, and that my +clothes were very ragged, humanely lent me a large cloth to cover me for +the night. + +July 31st. The Dooty's brother being going to Modiboo, I embraced the +opportunity of accompanying him thither, there being no beaten road. He +promised to carry my saddle, which I had left at Kea when my horse fell +down in the woods, as I now proposed to present it to the King of +Bambarra. + +We departed from Kea at eight o'clock, and about a mile to the westward +observed, on the bank of the river, a great number of earthen jars piled +up together. They were very neatly formed, but not glazed; and were +evidently of that sort of pottery which is manufactured at Downie, (a +town to the west of Tombuctoo,) and sold to great advantage in different +parts of Bambarra. As we approached towards the jars, my companion +plucked up a large handful of herbage, and threw it upon them, making +signs for me to do the same, which I did. He then, with great +seriousness, told me that these jars belonged to some supernatural power; +that they were found in their present situation about two years ago, and +as no person had claimed them, every traveller, as he passed them, from +respect to the invisible proprietor, threw some grass, or the branch of a +tree, upon the heap, to defend the jars from the rain. + +Thus conversing, we travelled in the most friendly manner, until, +unfortunately, we perceived the footsteps of a lion, quite fresh in the +mud, near the river side. My companion now proceeded with great +circumspection, and at last, coming to some thick underwood, he insisted +that I should walk before him. I endeavoured to excuse myself, by +alleging that I did not know the road, but he obstinately persisted; and +after a few high words and menacing looks, threw down the saddle and went +away. This very much disconcerted me; but as I had given up all hopes of +obtaining a horse, I could not think of encumbering myself with the +saddle, and taking off the stirrups and girths, I threw the saddle into +the river. The Negro no sooner saw me throw the saddle into the water, +than he came running from among the bushes where he had concealed +himself, jumped into the river, and by help of his spear, brought out the +saddle, and ran away with it. I continued my course along the bank; but +as the wood was remarkably thick, and I had reason to believe that a lion +was at no great distance, I became much alarmed, and took a long circuit +through the bushes to avoid him. + +About four in the afternoon I reached Modiboo, where I found my saddle. +The guide, who had got there before me, being afraid that I should inform +the king of his conduct, had brought the saddle with him in a canoe. + +While I was conversing with the Dooty, and remonstrating against the +guide for having left me in such a situation, I heard a horse neigh in +one of the huts; and the Dooty inquired, with a smile, if I knew who was +speaking to me? He explained himself, by telling me that my horse was +still alive, and somewhat recovered from his fatigue; but he insisted +that I should take him along with me; adding, that he had once kept a +Moor's horse for four months, and when the horse had recovered and got +into good condition, the Moor returned and claimed it, and refused to +give him any reward for his trouble. + +August 1st. I departed from Modiboo, driving my horse before me, and in +the afternoon reached Nyamee, where I remained three days, during which +time it rained without intermission, and with such violence, that no +person could venture out of doors. + +Aug. 5th. I departed from Nyamee; but the country was so deluged, that I +was frequently in danger of losing the road, and had to wade across the +savannahs for miles together, knee deep in water. Even the corn ground, +which is the driest land in the country, was so completely flooded, that +my horse twice stuck fast in the mud, and was not got out without the +greatest difficulty. + +In the evening of the same day I arrived at Nyara, where I was well +received by the Dooty; and as the 6th was rainy, I did not depart until +the morning of the 7th; but the water had swelled to such a height, that +in many places the road was scarcely passable; and though I waded breast +deep across the swamps, I could only reach a small village called +Nemaboo, where, however, for an hundred kowries, I procured from some +Foulahs plenty of corn for my horse, and milk for myself. + +Aug. 8th. The difficulties I had experienced the day before, made me +anxious to engage a fellow-traveller; particularly as I was assured, +that, in the course of a few days, the country would be so completely +overflowed, as to render the road utterly impassable; but though I +offered two hundred kowries for a guide, nobody would accompany me. +However, on the morning following, (Aug. 9th,) a Moor and his wife, +riding upon two bullocks, and bound for Sego with salt, passed the +village, and agreed to take me along with them; but I found them of +little service, for they were wholly unacquainted with the road, and +being accustomed to a sandy soil, were very bad travellers. Instead of +wading before the bullocks, to feel if the ground was solid, the woman +boldly entered the first swamp, riding upon the top of the load; but when +she had proceeded about two hundred yards, the bullock sunk into a hole, +and threw both the load and herself among the reeds. The frightened +husband stood for some time seemingly petrified with horror, and suffered +his wife to be almost drowned before he went to her assistance. + +About sunset we reached Sibity, but the Dooty received me very coolly, +and when I solicited for a guide to Sansanding, he told me his people +were otherwise employed. I was shown into a damp old hut, where I passed +a very uncomfortable night; for when the walls of the hut are softened by +the rain, they frequently become too weak to support the weight of the +roof. I heard three huts fall during the night, and was apprehensive that +the hut I lodged in would be the fourth. In the morning, as I went to +pull some grass for my horse, I counted fourteen huts which had fallen in +this manner, since the commencement of the rainy season. + +It continued to rain with great violence all the 10th; and as the Dooty +refused to give me any provisions, I purchased some corn, which I divided +with my horse. + +Aug. 11th. The Dooty compelled me to depart from the town, and I set out +for Sansanding, without any great hopes of faring better there than I had +done at Sibity; for I learned from people who came to visit me, that a +report prevailed, and was universally believed, that I had come to +Bambarra as a spy; and as Mansong had not admitted me into his presence, +the Dooties of the different towns were at liberty to treat me in what +manner they pleased. From repeatedly hearing the same story, I had no +doubt of the truth of it; but as there was no alternative, I determined +to proceed, and a little before sunset arrived at Sansanding. My +reception was what I expected. Counti Mamadi, who had been so kind to me +formerly, scarcely gave me welcome. Every one wished to shun me, and my +landlord sent a person to inform me, that a very unfavourable report was +received from Sego concerning me, and that he wished me to depart early +in the morning. About ten o'clock at night Counti Mamadi himself came +privately to me, and informed me, that Mansong had dispatched a canoe to +Jenne to bring me back; and he was afraid I should find great difficulty +in going to the west country. He advised me, therefore, to depart from +Sansanding before daybreak; and cautioned me against stopping at Diggani, +or any town near Sego. + +Aug. 12th. I departed from Sansanding, and reached Kabba in the +afternoon. As I approached the town, I was surprised to see several +people assembled at the gate; one of whom, as I advanced, came running +towards me, and taking my horse by the bridle, led me round the walls of +the town; and then pointing to the west, told me to go along, or it would +fare worse with me. It was in vain that I represented the danger of being +benighted in the woods, exposed to the inclemency of the weather, and to +the fury of wild beasts. "Go along," was all the answer; and a number of +people coming up, and urging me in the same manner with great +earnestness, I suspected that some of the king's messengers, who were +sent in search of me, were in the town; and that these Negroes, from mere +kindness, conducted me past it with a view to facilitate my escape. I +accordingly took the road for Sego, with the uncomfortable prospect of +passing the night on the branches of a tree. After travelling about three +miles, I came to a small village near the road. The Dooty was splitting +sticks by the gate; but I found I could have no admittance; and when I +attempted to enter, he jumped up, and with the stick he held in his hand, +threatened to strike me off the horse, if I presumed to advance another +step. + +At a little distance from this village (and farther from the road) is +another small one. I conjectured, that being rather out of the common +route, the inhabitants might have fewer objections to give me house room +for the night; and having crossed some corn fields, I sat down under a +tree by the well. Two or three women came to draw water; and one of them +perceiving I was a stranger, inquired whither I was going. I told her I +was going for Sego, but being benighted on the road, I wished to stay at +the village until morning; and begged she would acquaint the Dooty with +my situation. In a little time the Dooty sent for me, and permitted me to +sleep in a large baloon, in one corner of which was constructed a kiln +for drying the fruit of the Shea trees. It contained about half a +cart-load of fruit, under which was kept up a clear wood fire. I was +informed that in three days the fruit would be ready for pounding and +boiling; and that the butter thus manufactured is preferable to that +which is prepared from the fruit dried in the sun, especially in the +rainy season, when the process by insolation is always tedious, and +oftentimes ineffectual. + +Aug. 13th. About ten o'clock I reached a small village within half a mile +of Sego, where I endeavoured, but in vain, to procure some provisions. +Every one seemed anxious to avoid me; and I could plainly perceive, by +the looks and behaviour of the inhabitants, that some very unfavourable +accounts had been circulated concerning me. I was again informed, that +Mansong had sent people to apprehend me; and the Dooty's son told me I +had no time to lose, if I wished to get safe out of Bambarra. I now fully +saw the danger of my situation, and determined to avoid Sego altogether. +I accordingly mounted my horse, and taking the road for Diggani, +travelled as fast as I could, until I was out of sight of the villagers, +when I struck to the westward through high grass and swampy ground. About +noon, I stopped under a tree, to consider what course to take; for I had +now no doubt but that the Moors and Slatees had misinformed the king +respecting the object of my mission, and that the people were absolutely +in search of me to convey me a prisoner to Sego. Sometimes I had thoughts +of swimming my horse across the Niger, and going to the southward for +Cape Coast; but reflecting that I had ten days to travel before I should +reach Kong, and afterward an extensive country to traverse, inhabited by +various nations, with whose language and manners I was totally +unacquainted, I relinquished this scheme, and judged that I should better +answer the purpose of my mission, by proceeding to the westward along the +Niger, endeavouring to ascertain how far the river was navigable in that +direction. Having resolved upon this course, I proceeded accordingly; and +a little before sunset arrived at a Foulah village called Sooboo, where, +for two hundred kowries, I procured lodging for the night. + +Aug. 14th. I continued my course along the bank of the river, through a +populous and well cultivated country. I passed a walled town called +Kamalia,[14] without stopping; and at noon rode through a large town called +Samee, where there happened to be a market, and a number of people +assembled in an open place in the middle of the town, selling cattle, +cloth, corn, &c. I rode through the midst of them without being much +observed, every one taking me for a Moor. In the afternoon I arrived at a +small village called Binni, where I agreed with the Dooty's son, for one +hundred kowries, to allow me to stay for the night; but when the Dooty +returned, he insisted that I should instantly leave the place, and if his +wife and son had not interceded for me, I must have complied. + + [14] There is another town of this name hereafter to be mentioned. + +Aug. 15th. About nine o'clock I passed a large town called Sai, which +very much excited my curiosity. It is completely surrounded by two very +deep trenches, at about two hundred yards distant from the walls. On the +top of the trenches are a number of square towers, and the whole has the +appearance of a regular fortification. Inquiring into the origin of this +extraordinary entrenchment, I learned from two of the townspeople the +following particulars, which, if true, furnish a mournful picture of the +enormities of African wars. About fifteen years ago, when the present +King of Bambarra's father desolated Maniana, the Dooty of Sai had two +sons slain in battle, fighting in the king's cause. He had a third son +living; and when the king demanded a further reinforcement of men, and +this youth among the rest, the Dooty refused to send him. This conduct so +enraged the king, that when he returned from Maniana, about the beginning +of the rainy season, and found the Dooty protected by the inhabitants, he +sat down before Sai with his army, and surrounded the town with the +trenches I had now seen. After a siege of two months, the townspeople +became involved in all the horrors of famine; and whilst the king's army +were feasting in their trenches, they saw with pleasure the miserable +inhabitants of Sai devour the leaves and bark of the Bentang tree that +stood in the middle of the town. Finding, however, that the besieged +would sooner perish than surrender, the king had recourse to treachery. +He promised, that if they would open the gates, no person should be put +to death, nor suffer any injury but the Dooty alone. The poor old man +determined to sacrifice himself for the sake of his fellow citizens, and +immediately walked over to the king's army, where he was put to death. +His son, in attempting to escape, was caught and massacred in the +trenches; and the rest of the townspeople were carried away captives, and +sold as slaves to the different Negro traders. + +About noon I came to the village of Kaimoo, situated upon the bank of the +river; and as the corn I had purchased at Sibili was exhausted, I +endeavoured to purchase a fresh supply, but was informed that corn was +become very scarce all over the country; and, though I offered fifty +kowries for a small quantity, no person would sell me any. As I was about +to depart, however, one of the villagers (who probably mistook me for a +Moorish shereef) brought me some as a present; only desiring me in return +to bestow my blessing upon him; which I did in plain English, and he +received it with a thousand acknowledgments. Of this present I made my +dinner; and it was the third successive day that I had subsisted entirely +upon raw corn. + +In the evening I arrived at a small village called Song, the surly +inhabitants of which would not receive me, nor so much as permit me to +enter the gate; but as lions were very numerous in this neighbourhood, +and I had frequently, in the course of the day, seen the impression of +their feet on the road, I resolved to stay in the vicinity of the +village. Having collected some grass for my horse, I accordingly lay down +under a tree by the gate. About ten o'clock I heard the hollow roar of a +lion at no great distance, and attempted to open the gate; but the people +from within told me, that no person must attempt to enter the gate +without the Dooty's permission. I begged them to inform the Dooty that a +lion was approaching the village, and I hoped he would allow me to come +within the gate. I waited for an answer to this message with great +anxiety; for the lion kept prowling round the village, and once advanced +so very near me, that I heard him rustling among the grass, and climbed +the tree for safety. About midnight the Dooty, with some of his people, +opened the gate, and desired me to come in. They were convinced, they +said, that I was not a Moor; for no Moor ever waited any time at the gate +of a village, without cursing the inhabitants. + +Aug. 16th. About ten o'clock I passed a considerable town, with a mosque, +called Jabbe. Here the country begins to rise into hills, and I could see +the summits of high mountains to the westward. I had very disagreeable +travelling all this day, on account of the swampiness of the roads; for +the river was now risen to such a height, as to overflow great part of +the flat land on both sides; and, from the muddiness of the water, it was +difficult to discern its depth. In crossing one of these swamps, a little +to the westward of a town called Gangu, my horse, being up to the belly +in water, slipt suddenly into a deep pit, and was almost drowned before +he could disengage his feet from the stiff clay at the bottom. Indeed, +both the horse and its rider were so completely covered with mud, that, +in passing the village of Callimana, the people compared us to two dirty +elephants. About noon I stopped at a small village near Yamina, where I +purchased some corn, and dried my papers and clothes. + +The town of Yamina, at a distance, has a very fine appearance. It covers +nearly the same extent of ground as Sansanding; but having been plundered +by Daisy, King of Kaarta, about four years ago, it has not yet resumed +its former prosperity; nearly one half of the town being nothing but a +heap of ruins. However, it is still a considerable place, and is so much +frequented by the Moors, that I did not think it safe to lodge in it. But +in order to satisfy myself respecting its population and extent, I +resolved to ride through it; in doing which, I observed a great many +Moors sitting upon the Bentangs, and other places of public resort. Every +body looked at me with astonishment; but, as I rode briskly along, they +had no time to ask questions. + +I arrived in the evening at Farra, a walled village; where, without much +difficulty, I procured a lodging for the night. + +Aug. 17th. Early in the morning I pursued my journey, and at eight +o'clock passed a considerable, town called Balaba; after which the road +quits the plain, and stretches along the side of the hill. I passed in +the course of this day the ruins of three towns, the inhabitants of which +were all carried away by Daisy, King of Kaarta, on the same day that he +took and plundered Yamina. Near one of these ruins I climbed a tamarind +tree, but found the fruit quite green and sour; and the prospect of the +country was by no means inviting; for the high grass and bushes seemed +completely to obstruct the road, and the low lands were all so flooded by +the river, that the Niger had the appearance of an extensive lake. In the +evening I arrived at Kanika, where the Dooty, who was sitting upon an +elephant's hide at the gate, received me kindly; and gave me for supper +some milk and meal; which I considered (as to a person in my situation it +really was) a very great luxury. + +Aug. 18th. By mistake I took the wrong road, and did not discover my +error until I had travelled near four miles; when, coming to an eminence, +I observed the Niger considerably to the left. Directing my course +towards it, I travelled through long grass and bushes, with great +difficulty, until two o'clock in the afternoon; when I came to a +comparatively small, but very rapid river; which I took at first for a +creek, or one of the streams of the Niger. However, after I had examined +it with more attention, I was convinced that it was a distinct river; and +as the road evidently crossed it, (for I could see the pathway on the +opposite side,) I sat down upon the bank, in hopes that some traveller +might arrive, who would give me the necessary information concerning the +fording place; for the banks were so covered with reeds and bushes, that +it would have been almost impossible to land on the other side, except at +the pathway; which, on account of the rapidity of the stream, it seemed +very difficult to reach. No traveller, however, arriving, and there being +a great appearance of rain, I examined the grass and bushes, for some way +up the bank, and determined upon entering the river considerably above +the pathway, in order to reach the other side before the stream had swept +me too far down. With this view I fastened my clothes upon the saddle, +and was standing up to the neck in water, pulling my horse by the bridle +to make him follow me, when a man came accidentally to the place, and, +seeing me in the water, called to me with great vehemence to come out. +The alligators, he said, would devour both me and my horse, if we +attempted to swim over. When I had got out, the stranger, who had never +before seen a European, seemed wonderfully surprised. He twice put his +hand to his mouth, exclaiming in a low tone of voice, "God preserve me! +who is this?" But when he heard me speak the Bambarra tongue, and found +that I was going the same way as himself, he promised to assist me in +crossing the river; the name of which he told me was Frina. He then went +a little way along the bank and called to some person, who answered from +the other side. In a short time, a canoe with two boys, came paddling +from among the reeds. These boys agreed, for fifty Kowries, to transport +me and my horse over the river, which was effected without much +difficulty, and I arrived in the evening at Taffara, a walled town; and +soon discovered that the language of the natives was improved from the +corrupted dialect of Bambarra to the pure Mandingo. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +_Inhospitable reception at Taffara.--A Negro funeral at Sooha.--The +Author continues his route through several villages along the banks of +the Niger, until he comes to Koolikorro.--Supports himself by writing +saphies--reaches Maraboo--loses the road; and, after many difficulties, +arrives at Bammakoo.--Takes the road for Sibidooloo--meets with great +kindness at a village called Kooma;--is afterwards robbed, stripped, and +plundered by banditti.--The Author's resource and consolation under +exquisite distress.--He arrives in safety at Sibidooloo._ + + +On my arrival at Taffara, I inquired for the Dooty, but was informed that +he had died a few days before my arrival, and that there was, at that +moment, a meeting of the chief men for electing another, there being some +dispute about the succession. It was probably owing to the unsettled +state of the town, that I experienced such a want of hospitality in it, +for, though I informed the inhabitants that I should only remain with +them for one night, and assured them that Mansong had given me some +kowries to pay for my lodging, yet no person invited me to come in; and I +was forced to sit alone under the Bentang tree, exposed to the rain and +wind of a tornado, which lasted with great violence until midnight. At +this time the stranger, who had assisted me in crossing the river, paid +me a visit, and observing that I had not found a lodging, invited me to +take part of his supper, which he had brought to the door of his hut; +for, being a guest himself, he could not, without his landlord's consent, +invite me to come in. After this, I slept upon some wet grass in the +corner of a court. My horse fared still worse than myself, the corn I had +purchased being all expended, and I could not procure a supply. + +Aug. 20th. I passed the town of Jaba, and stopped a few minutes at a +village called Somino, where I begged and obtained some coarse food, +which the natives prepare from the husks of corn, and call _Boo_. About +two o'clock I came to the village of Sooha, and endeavoured to purchase +some corn from the Dooty, who was sitting by the gate, but without +success. I then requested a little food by way of charity, but was told +that he had none to spare. Whilst I was examining the countenance of this +inhospitable old man, and endeavouring to find out the cause of the +sullen discontent which was visible in his eye, he called to a slave who +was working in the corn-field at a little distance, and ordered him to +bring his hoe along with him. The Dooty then told him to dig a hole in +the ground, pointing to a spot at no great distance. The slave, with his +hoe, began to dig a pit in the earth; and the Dooty, who appeared to be a +man of a very fretful disposition, kept muttering and talking to himself +until the pit was almost finished, when he repeated _dankatoo_ (good for +nothing;) _jiankra lemen_ (a real plague;) which expressions I thought +could be applied to nobody but myself; and as the pit had very much the +appearance of a grave, I thought it prudent to mount my horse, and was +about to decamp, when the slave, who had before gone into the village, to +my surprise, returned with a corpse of a boy about nine or ten years of +age, quite naked. The Negro carried the body by a leg and an arm, and +threw it into the pit with a savage indifference, which I had never +before seen. As he covered the body with earth, the Dooty often expressed +himself, _naphula attiniata_ (money lost;) whence I concluded that the +boy had been one of his slaves. + +Departing from this shocking scene, I travelled by the side of the river +until sunset, when I came to Koolikorro; a considerable town, and a great +market for salt. Here I took up my lodging at the house of a Barabarran, +who had formerly been the slave of a Moor, and in that character had +travelled to Aoran, Towdinni, and many other places in the Great Desert; +but turning Mussulman, and his master dying at Jenne, he obtained his +freedom, and settled at this place, where he carries on a considerable +trade in salt, cotton-cloth, &c. His knowledge of the world has not +lessened that superstitious confidence in saphies and charms, which he +had imbibed in his earlier years; for, when he heard that I was a +Christian, he immediately thought of procuring a saphie, and for this +purpose brought out his _walha_, or writing board, assuring me, that he +would dress me a supper of rice, if I would write him a saphie to protect +him from wicked men. The proposal was of too great consequence to me to +be refused; I therefore wrote the board full from top to bottom on both +sides; and my landlord, to be certain of having the whole force of the +charm, washed the writing from the board into a calabash with a little +water, and having said a few prayers over it, drank this powerful +draught; after which, lest a single word should escape, he licked the +board until it was quite dry. A saphie writer was a man of too great +consequence to be long concealed; the important information was carried +to the Dooty, who sent his son with half a sheet of writing paper, +desiring me to write him a _naphula saphie_ (a charm to procure wealth). +He brought me, as a present, some meal and milk; and when I had finished +the saphie, and read it to him with an audible voice, he seemed highly +satisfied with his bargain, and promised to bring me in the morning some +milk for my breakfast. When I had finished my supper of rice and salt I +laid myself down upon a bullock's hide, and slept very quietly until +morning; this being the first good meal and refreshing sleep that I had +enjoyed for a long time. + +Aug. 21st. At daybreak I departed from Koolikorro, and about noon passed +the villages of Kayoo and Toolumbo. In the afternoon I arrived at +Maraboo, a large town, and like Koolikorro, famous for its trade in salt. +I was conducted to the house of a Kaartan, of the tribe of Jower, by whom +I was well received. This man had acquired a considerable property in the +slave trade; and, from his hospitality to strangers, was called by way of +pre-eminence, _Jattee_ (the landlord;) and his house was a sort of public +inn for all travellers. Those who had money were well lodged, for they +always made him some return for his kindness; but those who had nothing +to give, were content to accept whatever he thought proper; and as I +could not rank myself among the monied men, I was happy to take up my +lodging in the same hut with seven poor fellows who had come from Kancaba +in a canoe. But our landlord sent us some victuals. + +Aug. 22d. One of the landlord's servants went with me a little way from +the town to shew me what road to take; but, whether from ignorance or +design I know not, he directed me wrong; and I did not discover my +mistake until the day was far advanced, when, coming to a deep creek, I +had some thoughts of turning back; but as by that means, I foresaw that I +could not possibly reach Bammakoo before night, I resolved to cross it; +and leading my horse close to the brink, I went behind him, and pushed +him headlong into the water; and then taking the bridle in my teeth, swam +over to the other side. This was the third creek I had crossed in this +manner, since I had left Sego; but having secured my notes and +memorandums in the crown of my hat, I received little or no inconvenience +from such adventures. The rain and heavy dew kept my clothes constantly +wet; and the roads being very deep and full of mud, such a washing was +sometimes pleasant, and oftentimes necessary. I continued travelling, +through high grass, without any beaten road, and about noon came to the +river; the banks of which are here very rocky, and the force and roar of +the water were very great. The King of Bambarra's canoes, however, +frequently pass these rapids by keeping close to the bank; persons being +stationed on the shore with ropes fastened to the canoe, while others +push it forward with long poles. At this time, however, it would, I +think, have been a matter of great difficulty for any European boat to +have crossed the stream. About four o'clock in the afternoon, having +altered my course from the river towards the mountains, I came to a small +pathway which led to a village called Foorkaboo, where I slept. + +Aug. 23d. Early in the morning I set out for Bammakoo, at which place I +arrived about five o'clock in the afternoon. I had heard Bammakoo much +talked of as a great market for salt, and I felt rather disappointed to +find it only a middling town, not quite so large as Maraboo; however, the +smallness of its size is more than compensated by the riches of its +inhabitants; for, when the Moors bring their salt through Kaarta or +Bambarra, they constantly rest a few days at this place; and the Negro +merchants here, who are well acquainted with the value of salt in +different kingdoms, frequently purchase by wholesale, and retail it to +great advantage. Here I lodged at the house of a Sera-Woolli Negro, and +was visited by a number of Moors. They spoke very good Mandingo, and were +more civil to me than their countrymen had been. One of them had +travelled to Rio Grande, and spoke very highly of the Christians. He sent +me in the evening some boiled rice and milk. I now endeavoured to procure +information concerning my route to the westward, from a slave merchant +who had resided some years on the Gambia. He gave me some imperfect +account of the distance, and enumerated the names of a great many places +that lay in the way; but withal told me, that the road was impassable at +this season of the year. He was even afraid, he said, that I should find +great difficulty in proceeding any farther, as the road crossed the +Joliba at a town about half a day's journey to the westward of Bammakoo; +and there being no canoes at that place large enough, to receive my +horse, I could not possibly get him over for some months to come. This +was an obstruction of a very serious nature; but as I had no money to +maintain myself even for a few days, I resolved to push on, and if I +could, not convey my horse across the river, to abandon him, and swim +over myself. In thoughts of this nature I passed the night, and in the +morning consulted with my landlord how I should surmount the present +difficulty. He informed me that one road still remained, which was indeed +very rocky, and scarcely passable for horses; but that if I had a proper +guide over the hills to a town called Sibidooloo, he had no doubt, but +with patience and caution, I might travel forwards through Handing. I +immediately applied to the Dooty, and was informed that a _Jilli Kea_ +(singing man) was about to depart for Sibidooloo, and would show me the +road over the hills. With this man, who undertook to be my conductor, I +travelled up a rocky glen about two miles, when we came to a small +village; and here my musical fellow-traveller found out that he had +brought me the wrong road. He told me that the horse-road lay on the +other side of the hill, and throwing his drum upon his back, mounted up +the rocks, where indeed no horse could follow him, leaving me to admire +his agility, and trace out a road for myself. As I found it impossible to +proceed, I rode back to the level ground, and directing my course to the +eastward, came about noon to another glen, and discovered a path on which +I observed the marks of horses feet. Following this path I came in a +short time to some shepherds' huts, where I was informed that I was in +the right road, but that I could not possibly reach Sibidooloo before +night. Soon after this I gained the summit of a hill, from whence I had +an extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east appeared some +very distant mountains, which I had formerly seen from an eminence near +Maraboo, where the people informed me that these mountains were situated +in a large and powerful kingdom called Kong, the sovereign of which could +raise a much greater army than the king of Bambarra. Upon this height the +soil is shallow, the rocks are iron-stone and schistus, with detached +pieces of white quartz. + +A little before sunset, I descended on the north-west side of this ridge +of hills, and as I was looking about for a convenient tree under which to +pass the night, (for I had no hopes of reaching any town,) I descended +into a delightful valley, and soon afterwards arrived at a romantic +village called Kooma. This village is surrounded by a high wall, and is +the sole property of a Mandingo merchant, who fled hither with his family +during a former war. The adjacent fields yield him plenty of corn, his +cattle roam at large in the valley, and the rocky hills secure him from +the depredations of war. In this obscure retreat he is seldom visited by +strangers, but whenever this happens, he makes the weary traveller +welcome. I soon found myself surrounded by a circle of the harmless +villagers. They asked me a thousand questions about my country; and, in +return for my information, brought corn and milk for myself, and grass +for my horse, kindled a fire in the hut where I was to sleep, and +appeared very anxious to serve me. + +Aug. 25th. I departed from Kooma, accompanied by two shepherds, who were +going towards Sibidooloo. The road was very steep and rocky, and as my +horse had hurt his feet much in coming from Bammakoo, he travelled slowly +and with great difficulty; for in many places the ascent was so sharp, +and the declivities so great, that if he made one false step, he must +inevitably have been dashed to pieces. The shepherds being anxious to +proceed, gave themselves little trouble about me or my horse, and kept +walking on at a considerable distance. It was about eleven o'clock, as I +stopped to drink a little water at a rivulet, (my companions being near a +quarter of a mile before me,) that I heard some people calling to each +other, and presently a loud screaming, as from a person in great +distress. I immediately conjectured that a lion had taken one of the +shepherds, and mounted my horse to have a better view of what had +happened. The noise, however, ceased; and I rode slowly towards the place +from whence I thought it had proceeded, calling out but without receiving +any answer. In a little time, however, I perceived one of the shepherds +lying among the long grass near the road, and, though I could see no +blood upon him, I concluded he was dead. But when I came close to him, he +whispered me to stop, telling me that a party of armed men had seized +upon his companion, and shot two arrows at himself as he was making his +escape. I stopped to consider what course to take, and looking round, saw +at a little distance a man sitting upon the stump of a tree; I +distinguished also the heads of six or seven more sitting among the +grass, with muskets in their hands. I had now no hopes of escaping, and +therefore determined to ride toward towards them. As I approached them, +I was in hopes they were elephant hunters; and, by way of opening the +conversation, inquired if they had shot any thing; but without returning +an answer, one of them ordered me to dismount; and then, as if +recollecting himself, waved with his hand for me to proceed. I +accordingly rode past, and had with some difficulty crossed a deep +rivulet, when I heard somebody holla; and looking behind, saw those I had +taken for elephant hunters running after me, and calling out to me to +turn back. I stopped until they were all come up; when they informed +me that the King of the Foulahs had sent them on purpose to bring me, +my horse, and every thing that belonged to me, to Fooladoo; and +that therefore I must turn back and go along with them. Without +hesitating a moment, I turned round and followed them, and we travelled +together near a quarter of a mile without exchanging a word, when, coming +to a dark place of the wood, one of them said in the Mandingo language, +"this place will do;" and immediately snatched my hat from my head. +Though I was by no means free of apprehension, yet I resolved to shew as +few signs of fear as possible, and therefore told them, that unless my +hat was returned to me, I should proceed no further. But before I had +time to receive an answer, another drew his knife, and seizing upon a +metal button which remained upon my waistcoat, cut it off, and put it +into his pocket. Their intentions were now obvious; and I thought that +the easier they were permitted to rob me of every thing, the less I had +to fear. I therefore allowed them to search my pockets without +resistance, and examine every part of my apparel, which they did with the +most scrupulous exactness. But observing that I had one waistcoat under +another, they insisted that I should cast them both off; and at last, to +make sure work, stripped me quite naked. Even my half boots (though the +sole of one of them was tied on to my foot with a broken-bridle rein,) +were minutely inspected. Whilst they were examining the plunder, I begged +them, with great earnestness, to return my pocket compass; but when I +pointed it out to them, as it was lying on the ground, one of the +banditti, thinking I was about to take it up, cocked his musket, and +swore that he would lay me dead on the spot, if I presumed to put my hand +upon it. After this, some of them went away with my horse, and the +remainder stood considering whether they should leave me quite naked, or +allow me something to shelter me from the sun. Humanity at last +prevailed; they returned me the worst of the two shirts, and a pair of +trowsers; and, as they went away, one of them threw back my hat, in the +crown of which I kept my memorandums; and this was probably the reason +they did not wish to keep it. After they were gone, I sat for some time +looking around me with amazement and terror. Which ever way I turned, +nothing appeared but danger and difficulty. I saw myself in the midst of +a vast wilderness in the depth of the rainy season, naked and alone, +surrounded by savage animals, and men still more savage. I was five +hundred miles from the nearest European settlement. All these +circumstances crowded at once on my recollection, and I confess that my +spirits began to fail me. I considered my fate as certain, and that I had +no alternative but to lie down and perish. The influence of religion, +however, aided and supported me. I reflected that no human prudence or +foresight could possibly have averted my present sufferings. I was indeed +a stranger in a strange land, yet I was still under the protecting eye of +that Providence who has condescended to call himself the stranger's +friend. At this moment, painful as my reflections were, the extraordinary +beauty of a small moss, in fructification, irresistibly caught my eye, I +mention this to show from what trifling circumstances the mind will +sometimes derive consolation; for though the whole plant was not larger +than the top of one of my fingers, I could not contemplate the delicate +conformation of its roots, leaves, and capsula, without admiration. Can +that Being (thought I,) who planted, watered, and brought to perfection, +in this obscure part of the world, a thing which appears of so small +importance, look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of +creatures formed after his own image?--Surely not? Reflections like these +would not allow me to despair. I started up, and disregarding both hunger +and fatigue, travelled forwards, assured that relief was at hand; and I +was not disappointed. In a short time I came to a small village, at the +entrance of which I overtook the two shepherds who had come with me from +Kooma. They were much surprised to see me; for they said they never +doubted that the Foulahs, when they had robbed, had murdered me. +Departing from this village, we travelled over several rocky ridges, and +at sunset arrived at Sibidooloo, the frontier town of the kingdom of +Manding. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +_Government of Manding.--The Author's reception by the Mansa, or chief +man of Sibidooloo, who takes measures for the recovery of his horse and +effects.--The Author removes to Wonda.--Great scarcity, and its +afflicting consequences.--The Author recovers his horse and +clothes.--Presents his horse to the Mansa, and prosecutes his journey to +Kamalia.--Some account of that town.--The Author's kind reception by +Karfa Taura, a slatee, who proposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry +season, with a caravan of slaves.--The Author's sickness, and +determination to remain and accompany Karfa._ + + +The town of Sibidooloo is situated in a fertile valley, surrounded with +high rocky hills. It is scarcely accessible for horses, and during the +frequent wars between the Bambarrans, Foulahs, and Mandingoes, has never +once been plundered by an enemy. When I entered the town, the people +gathered round me, and followed me into the balloon; where I was +presented to the Dooty or chief man, who is here called Mansa, which +usually signifies king. Nevertheless, it appeared to me that the +government of Manding was a sort of republic, or rather an oligarchy, +every town having a particular Mansa, and the chief power of the state, +in the last resort, being lodged in the assembly of the whole body. I +related to the Mansa the circumstances of my having been robbed of my +horse and apparel, and my story was confirmed by the two shepherds. He +continued smoking his pipe all the time I was speaking; but I had no +sooner finished, than, taking his pipe from his mouth, and tossing up the +sleeve of his coat, with an indignant air "Sit down, (said he,) you shall +have everything restored to you; I have sworn it:"--and then turning to +an attendant, "Give the white man (said he) a draught of water; and with +the first light of the morning go over the hills, and inform the Dooty of +Bammakoo, that a poor white man, the King of Bambarra's stranger, has +been robbed by the King of Fooladoo's people." + +I little expected, in my forlorn condition, to meet with a man who could +thus feel for my sufferings. I heartily thanked the Mansa for his +kindness, and accepted his invitation to remain with him until the return +of the messenger, I was conducted into a hut, and had some victuals sent +me; but the crowd of people which assembled to see me, all of whom +commiserated my misfortunes, and vented imprecations against the Foulahs, +prevented me from sleeping until past midnight. Two days I remained +without hearing any intelligence of my horse or clothes; and as there was +at this time a great scarcity of provisions, approaching even to famine, +all over this part of the country, I was unwilling to trespass any +further on the Mansa's generosity, and begged permission to depart to the +next village. Finding me very anxious to proceed, he told me that I might +go as far as a town called Wonda, where he hoped I would remain a few +days, until I heard some account of my horse, &c. + +I departed accordingly on the next morning of the 28th, and stopped at +some small villages for refreshment. I was presented at one of them with +a dish which I had never before seen. It was composed of the blossoms, or +_antherae_ of the maize, stewed in milk and water. It is eaten only in +time of great scarcity. On the 30th, about noon, I arrived at Wonda, a +small town with a mosque, and surrounded by a high wall. The Mansa, who +was a Mahomedan, acted in two capacities; as chief magistrate of the +town, and schoolmaster to the children. He kept his school in an open +shed, where I was desired to take up my lodging, until some account +should arrive from Sibidooloo, concerning my horse and clothes; for +though the horse was of little use to me, yet the few clothes were +essential. The little raiment upon me could neither protect me from the +sun by day, nor the dews and musquetoes by night: indeed my shirt was not +only worn thin, like a piece of muslin, but withal was so very dirty, +that I was happy to embrace an opportunity of washing it; which having +done, and spread it upon a bush, I sat down naked in the shade until it +was dry. + +Ever since the commencement of the rainy season, my health had been +greatly on the decline. I had often been affected with slight paroxysms +of fever; and, from the time of leaving Bammakoo the symptoms had +considerably increased. As I was sitting in the manner described, the +fever returned with such violence, that it very much alarmed me; the more +so, as I had no medicine to stop its progress, nor any hope of obtaining +that care and attention which my situation required. + +I remained at Wonda nine days; during which time I experienced the +regular return of the fever every day. And though I endeavoured as much +as possible to conceal my distress from my landlord, and frequently lay +down the whole day, out of his sight, in a corn field, conscious how +burthensome I was to him and his family, in a time of such great +scarcity, yet I found that he was apprised of my situation, and one +morning, as I feigned to be asleep by the fire; he observed to his wife +that they were likely to find me a very troublesome and chargeable guest, +for that, in my present sickly state, they should be obliged, for the +sake of their good name, to maintain me until I recovered, or died. + +The scarcity of provisions was certainly felt at this time most severely +by the poor people, as the following circumstance most painfully +convinced me. Every evening, during my stay, I observed five or six women +come to the Mansa's house, and receive each of them a certain quantity of +corn. As I knew how valuable this article was at this juncture, I +enquired of the Mansa, whether he maintained these poor women from pure +bounty, or expected a return when the harvest should be gathered in. +"Observe that boy," said he, (pointing to a fine child about five years +of age;) "his mother has sold him to me for forty days' provision for +herself and the rest of her family. I have bought another boy in the same +manner." Good God, thought I, what must a mother suffer, before she sells +her own child! I could not get this melancholy subject out of my mind, +and the next night, when the women returned for their allowance, I +desired the boy to point out to me his mother, which he did. She was much +emaciated, but had nothing cruel or savage in her countenance; and when +she had received her corn, she came and talked to her son with as much +cheerfulness as if he had still been under her care. + +Sept. 6th. Two people arrived from Sibidooloo, bringing with them my +horse and clothes; but I found that my pocket compass was broken to +pieces. This was a great loss, which I could not repair. + +Sept. 7th. As my horse was grazing near the brink of a well, the ground +gave way, and he fell in. The well was about ten feet diameter, and so +very deep, that when I saw my horse snorting in the water, I thought it +was impossible to save him. The inhabitants of the village, however, +immediately assembled, and having tied together a number of withes[15] +they lowered a man down into the well, who fastened those withes round +the body of the horse; and the people, having first drawn up the man, +took hold of the withes, and to my surprise, pulled the horse out with +the greatest facility. The poor animal was now reduced to a mere +skeleton, and the roads were scarcely passable, being either very rocky, +or else full of mud and water. I therefore found it impracticable to +travel with him any farther, and was happy to leave him in the hands of +one who I thought would take care of him. I accordingly presented him to +my landlord, and desired him to send my saddle and bridle a present to +the Mansa of Sibidooloo, being the only return I could make him for +having taken so much trouble in procuring my horse and clothes. + + [15] From a plant called _kabba_, that climbs like a vine upon the + trees. + +I now thought it necessary, sick as I was, to take leave of my hospitable +landlord. On the morning of Sept. 8th, when I was about to depart, he +presented me with his spear, as a token of remembrance, and a leather bag +to contain my clothes. Having converted my half boots into sandals, I +travelled with more ease, and slept that night at a village called +Ballanti. On the 9th, I reached Nemacoo; but the Mansa of the village +thought fit to make me sup upon the cameleon's dish. By way of apology, +however, he assured me the next morning, that the scarcity of corn was +such, that he could not possibly allow me any. I could not accuse him of +unkindness, as all the people actually appeared to be starving. + +Sept. 10th. It rained hard all day, and the people kept themselves in +their huts. In the afternoon I was visited by a Negro, named Modi Lemina +Taura, a great trader, who, suspecting my distress, brought me some +victuals, and promised to conduct me to his house at Kinyeto the day +following. + +Sept. 11th. I departed from Nemacoo, and arrived at Kinyeto in the +evening; but having hurt my ankle in the way, it swelled and inflamed so +much that I could neither walk nor set my foot to the ground, the next +day, without great pain. My landlord observing this, kindly invited me to +stop with him a few days; and I accordingly remained at his house until +the 14th; by which time I felt much relieved, and, could walk with the +help of a staff. I now set out, thanking my landlord for his great care +and attention; and being accompanied by a young man, who was travelling +the same way, I proceeded for Jerijang, a beautiful and well cultivated +district, the Mansa of which is reckoned the most powerful chief of any +in Manding. + +On the 15th, I reached Dosita, a large town, where I staid one day on +account of the rain; but continued very sickly, and was slightly +delirious in the night. On the 17th, I set out for Mansia, a considerable +town, where small quantities of gold are collected. The road led over a +high rocky hill, and my strength and spirits were so much exhausted, that +before I could reach the top of the hill, I was forced to lie down three +times, being very faint and sickly. I reached Mansia in the afternoon. +The Mansa of this town had the character of being very inhospitable. He +however sent me a little corn for supper, but demanded something in +return; and when I assured him that I had nothing of value in my +possession, he told me (as if in jest) that my white skin should not +defend me if I told him lies. He then showed me the hut wherein I was to +sleep; but took away my spear, saying that it should be returned to me in +the morning. This trifling circumstance, when joined to the character I +had heard of the man, made me rather suspicious of him; and I privately +desired one of the inhabitants of the place, who had a bow and quiver, to +sleep in the same hut with me. About midnight, I heard somebody approach +the door, and observing the moonlight strike suddenly into the hut, I +started up, and saw a man stepping cautiously over the threshold. I +immediately snatched up the Negro's bow and quiver, the rattling of which +made the man withdraw; and my companion looking out, assured me that it +was the Mansa himself, and advised me to keep awake until the morning. I +closed the door, and placed a large piece of wood behind it; and was +wondering at this unexpected visit, when somebody pressed so hard against +the door, that the Negro could scarcely keep it shut. But when I called +to him to open the door, the intruder ran off, as before. + +Sept. 16th. As soon as it was light, the Negro, at my request, went to +the Mansa's house, and brought away my spear. He told me that the Mansa +was asleep, and lest this inhospitable chief should devise means to +detain me, he advised me to set out before he was awake; which I +immediately did; and about two o'clock reached Kamalia, a small town +situated at the bottom of some rocky hills, where the inhabitants collect +gold in considerable quantities. The Bushreens here live apart from the +Kafirs, and have built their huts in a scattered manner, at a short +distance from the town. They have a place set apart for performing their +devotions in, to which they give the name of _missura_, or mosque; but it +is in fact nothing more than a square piece of ground made level, and +surrounded with the trunks of trees, having a small projection towards +the east, where the Marraboo, or priest, stands, when he calls the people +to prayers. Mosques of this construction are very common among the +converted Negroes; but having neither walls nor roof, they can only be +used in fine weather. When it rains, the Bushreens perform their +devotions in their huts. + +On my arrival at Kamalia, I was conducted to the house of a Bushreen +named Karfa Taura, the brother of him to whose hospitality I was indebted +at Kinyeto. He was collecting a coffle of slaves, with a view to sell +them to the Europeans on the Gambia, as soon as the rains should be over. +I found him sitting in his baloon surrounded by several Slatees, who +proposed to join the coffle. He was reading to them from an Arabic book; +and inquired, with a smile, if I understood it? Being answered in the +negative, he desired one of the Slatees to fetch the little curious book, +which had been brought from the west country. On opening this small +volume, I was surprised and delighted to find it our _Book of Common +Prayer_; and Karfa expressed great joy to hear that I could read it; for +some of the Slatees, who had seen the Europeans upon the Coast, observing +the colour of my skin, (which was now become very yellow from sickness,) +my long beard, ragged clothes, and extreme poverty, were unwilling to +admit that I was a white man, and told Karfa that they suspected I was +some Arab in disguise. Karfa, however, perceiving that I could read this +book, had no doubt concerning me; and kindly promised me every assistance +in his power. At the same time he informed me, that it was impossible to +cross the Jallonka wilderness for many months yet to come, as no less +than eight rapid rivers, he said, lay in the way. He added, that he +intended to set out himself for Gambia as soon as the rivers were +fordable, and the grass burnt; and advised me to stay and accompany him. +He remarked, that when a caravan of the natives could not travel through +the country, it was idle for a single white man to attempt it. I readily +admitted that such an attempt was an act of rashness, but I assured him +that I had now no alternative; for having no money to support myself, I +must either beg my subsistence, by travelling from place to place, or +perish for want. Karfa now looked at me with great earnestness, and +inquired if I could eat the common victuals of the country, assuring me +he had never before seen a white man. He added, that if I would remain +with him until the rains were over, he would give me plenty of victuals +in the meantime, and a hut to sleep in; and that after he had conducted +me in safety to the Gambia, I might then make him what return I thought +proper. I asked him if the value of one prime slave would satisfy him. He +answered in the affirmative, and immediately ordered one of the huts to +be swept for my accomodation. Thus was I delivered, by the friendly care +of this benevolent Negro, from a situation truly deplorable. Distress and +famine pressed hard upon me. I had, before me, the gloomy wilds of +Jallonkadoo, where the traveller sees no habitation for five successive +days. I had observed at a distance the rapid course of the river Kokoro. +I had almost marked out the place where I was doomed, I thought, to +perish, when this friendly Negro stretched out his hospitable hand for my +relief. + +In the hut which was appropriated for me, I was provided with a mat to +sleep on, an earthen jar for holding water, and a small calabash to drink +out of; and Karfa sent me from his own dwelling two meals a day; and +ordered his slaves to supply me with firewood and water. But I found that +neither the kindness of Karfa, nor any sort of accomodation, could put a +stop to the fever which weakened me, and which became every day more +alarming. I endeavoured as much as possible to conceal my distress; but +on the third day after my arrival, as I was going with Karfa to visit +some of his friends, I found myself so faint that I could scarcely walk, +and before we reached the place, I staggered, and fell into a pit from +which the clay had been taken to build one of the huts. Karfa endeavoured +to console me with the hopes of a speedy recovery; assuring me, that if I +would not walk out in the wet, I should soon be well. I determined to +follow his advice and confine myself to my hut; but was still tormented +with the fever, and my health continued to be in a very precarious state +for five ensuing weeks. Sometimes I could crawl out of the hut, and sit a +few hours in the open air; at other times I was unable to rise, and +passed the lingering hours in a very gloomy and solitary manner. I was +seldom visited by any person except my benevolent landlord, who came +daily to inquire after my health. When the rains became less frequent and +the country began to grow dry, the fever left me; but in so debilitated +condition, that I could scarcely stand upright, and it was with great +difficulty that I could carry my mat to the shade of a tamarind tree, at +a short distance, to enjoy the refreshing smell of the corn-fields, and +delight my eyes with a prospect of the country. I had the pleasure, at +length, to find myself in a state of convalescence: towards which the +benevolent and simple manners of the Negroes, and the perusal of Karfa's +little volume, greatly contributed. + +In the meantime, many of the slatees who resided at Kamalia, having spent +all their money, and become in a great measure dependent upon Karfa's +hospitality, beheld me with an eye of envy, and invented many ridiculous +and trifling stories to lessen me in Karfa's esteem; and in the beginning +of December, a Sera-Woolli slatee, with five slaves, arrived from Sego. +This man, too, spread a number of malicious reports concerning me; but +Karfa paid no attention to them, and continued to show me the same +kindness as formerly. As I was one day conversing with the slaves which +this slatee had brought, one of them begged me to give him some victuals. +I told him I was a stranger, and had none to give. He replied, "I gave +_you_ victuals when you was hungry.--Have you forgot the man who brought +you milk at Karrankalla? But (added he, with a sigh) _the irons were not +then upon my legs!_" I immediately recollected him, and begged some +ground nuts from Karfa to give him as a return for his former kindness. +He told me that he had been taken by the Bambarrans, the day after the +battle at Joka, and sent to Sego, where he had been purchased by his +present master, who was carrying him down to Kajaaga. Three more of these +slaves were from Kaarta, and one from Wassela, all of them prisoners of +war. They stopped four days at Kamalia, and were then taken to Bala, +where they remained until the river Kokoro was fordable, and the grass +burnt. + +In the beginning of December Karfa proposed to complete his purchase of +slaves; and for this purpose, collected all the debts which were owing to +him in his own country; and on the 19th, being accompanied by three +slatees, he departed for Kancaba, a large town on the banks of the Niger, +and a great slave-market. Most of the slaves, who are sold at Kancaba, +come from Bambarra; for Mansong, to avoid the expense and danger of +keeping all his prisoners at Sego, commonly sends them in small parties +to be sold at the different trading towns; and as Kancaba is much +resorted to by merchants, it is always well supplied with slaves, which +are sent thither up the Niger in canoes. When Karfa departed from +Kamalia, he proposed to return in the course of a month; and during his +absence I was left to the care of a good old Bushreen, who acted as +schoolmaster to the young people of Kamalia. + +Being now left alone, and at leisure to indulge my own reflections, it +was an opportunity not to be neglected of augmenting and extending the +observations I had already made on the climate and productions of the +country; and of acquiring a more perfect knowledge of the natives, than +it was possible for me to obtain in the course of a transient and +perilous journey through the country. I endeavoured likewise to collect +all the information I could concerning those important branches of +African commerce, the trade for gold, ivory, and slaves. Such was my +employment during the remainder of my stay at Kamalia; and I shall now +proceed to lay before my readers the result of my researches and +inquiries; avoiding, as far as I can, a repetition of those circumstances +and observations, which were related, as occasion arose, in the narrative +of my journey. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +_Of the climate and seasons.--Winds.--Vegetable +productions.--Population.--General observations on the character and +disposition of the Mandingoes; and a summary account of their manners and +habits of life; their marriages, &c._ + + +The whole of my route, both in going and returning, having been confined +to a tract of country bounded nearly by the 12th and 15th parallels of +latitude, the reader must imagine that I found the climate in most places +extremely hot; but nowhere did I feel the heat so intense and oppressive +as in the Camp at Benowm, of which mention has been made in a former +place. In some parts, where the country ascends into hills, the air is at +all times comparatively cool; yet none of the districts which I traversed +could properly be called mountainous. About the middle of June, the hot +and sultry atmosphere is agitated by violent gusts of wind, (called +_tornadoes_,) accompanied with thunder and rain. These usher in what is +denominated the _rainy season_, which continues until the month of +November. During this time, the diurnal rains are very heavy; and the +prevailing winds are from the south-west. The termination of the rainy +season is likewise attended with violent tornadoes; after which the wind +shifts to the north-east, and continues to blow from that quarter during +the rest of the year. + +When the wind sets in from the north-east it produces a wonderful change +on the face of the country. The grass soon becomes dry and withered; the +rivers subside very rapidly, and many of the trees shed their leaves. +About this period is commonly felt the _harmattan_, a dry and parching +wind, blowing from the north-east, and accompanied by a thick smoky haze, +through which the sun appears of a dull red colour. This wind, in passing +over the Great Desert of Sahara, acquires a very strong attraction for +humidity, and parches up every thing exposed to its current. It is, +however, reckoned very salutary, particularly to Europeans, who generally +recover their health during its continuance. I experienced immediate +relief from sickness, both at Dr. Laidley's and at Kamalia, during the +harmattan. Indeed, the air, during the rainy season, is so loaded with +moisture, that clothes, shoes, trunks, and every thing that is not close +to the fire, become damp and mouldy; and the inhabitants may be said to +live in a sort of vapour bath: but this dry wind braces up the solids, +which were before relaxed, gives a cheerful flow of spirits, and is even +pleasant to respiration. Its ill effects are, that it produces chaps in +the lips, and afflicts many of the natives with sore eyes. + +Whenever the grass is sufficiently dry, the Negroes set it on fire; but +in Ludamar, and other Moorish countries, this practice is not allowed: +for it is upon the withered stubble that the Moors feed their cattle, +until the return of the rains. The burning the grass in Mandingo exhibits +a scene of terrific grandeur. In the middle of the night, I could see the +plains and mountains, as far as my eye could reach, variegated with lines +of fire; and the light reflected on the sky made the heavens appear in a +blaze. In the day-time, pillars of smoke were seen in every direction; +while the birds of prey were observed hovering round the conflagration, +and pouncing down upon the snakes, lizards, and other reptiles, which +attempted to escape from the flames. This annual burning is soon followed +by a fresh and sweet verdure, and the country is thereby rendered more +healthful and pleasant. + +Of the most remarkable and important of the vegetable productions, +mention has already been made; and they are nearly the same in all the +districts through which I passed. It is observable, however, that +although many species of the edible roots which grow in the West India +Islands are found in Africa, yet I never saw, in any part of my journey, +either the sugar-cane, the coffee, or the cocoa-tree; nor could I learn, +on inquiry, that they were known to the natives. The pine-apple, and the +thousand other delicious fruits, which the industry of civilized man +(improving the bounties of nature) has brought to such great perfection +in the tropical climates of America, are here equally unknown. I +observed, indeed, a few orange and banana-trees, near the mouth of the +Gambia; but whether they were indigenous, or were formerly planted there +by some of the white traders, I could not positively learn. I suspect +that they were originally introduced by the Portuguese. + +Concerning property in the soil, it appeared to me that the lands in +native woods were considered as belonging to the king or (where the +government was not monarchical) to the state. When any individual of free +condition had the means of cultivating more land than he actually +possessed, he applied to the chief man of the district, who allowed him +an extension of territory, on condition of forfeiture if the lands were +not brought into cultivation by a given period. The condition being +fulfilled, the soil became vested in the possessor; and for aught that +appeared to me, descended to his heirs. + +The population, however, considering the extent and fertility of the +soil, and the ease with which lands are obtained, is not very great in +the countries which I visited. I found many extensive and beautiful +districts, entirely destitute of inhabitants; and in general, the borders +of the different kingdoms were either very thinly peopled or entirely +deserted. Many places are likewise unfavourable to population, from being +unhealthful. The swampy banks of the Gambia, the Senegal, and other +rivers towards the coast, are of this description. Perhaps it is on this +account chiefly that the interior countries abound more with inhabitants, +than the maritime districts, for all the Negro nations that fell under my +observation, though divided into a number of petty independent states, +subsist chiefly by the same means, live nearly in the same temperature, +and possess a wonderful similarity of disposition. The Mandingoes, in +particular, are a very gentle race, cheerful in their dispositions, +inquisitive, credulous, simple, and fond of flattery. Perhaps the most +prominent defect in their character, was that insurmountable propensity, +which the reader must have observed to prevail in all classes, of them, +to steal from me the few effects I was possessed of. For this part of +their conduct, no complete justification can be offered, because theft is +a crime in their own estimation; and it must be observed, that they are +not habitually and generally guilty of it towards each other. This, +however, is an important circumstance in mitigation; and before we +pronounce them a more depraved people than any other, it were well to +consider whether the lower order of people in any part of Europe would +have acted, under similar circumstances, with greater honesty towards a +stranger, than the Negroes acted towards me. It must not be forgotten, +that the laws of the country afforded me no protection; that every one +was at liberty to rob me with impunity; and, finally, that some part of +my effects were of as great value, in the estimation of the Negroes, as +pearls and diamonds would have been in the eyes of a European. Let us +suppose a black merchant of Hindostan to have found his way into the +centre of England, with a box of jewels at his back; and that the laws of +the kingdom afforded him no security, in such a case, the wonder would +be, not that the stranger was robbed of any part of his riches, but that +any part was left for a second depredator. Such, on sober reflection, is +the judgment I have formed concerning the pilfering disposition of the +Mandingo Negroes towards myself. Notwithstanding I was so great a +sufferer by it, I do not consider that their natural sense of justice was +perverted or extinguished; it was overpowered only for the moment, by the +strength of a temptation which it required no common virtue to resist. + +On the other hand, as some counterbalance to this depravity in their +nature, allowing it to be such, it is impossible for me to forget the +disinterested charity, and tender solicitude, with which many of these +poor heathens (from the sovereign of Sego to the poor women who received +me at different times into their cottages, when I was perishing of +hunger) sympathised with me in my sufferings, relieved my distresses, and +contributed to my safety. This acknowledgment, however, is perhaps more +particularly due to the female part of the nation. Among the men, as the +reader must have seen, my reception, though generally kind, was sometimes +otherwise. It varied according to the various tempers of those to whom I +made application. The hardness of avarice in some, and the blindness of +bigotry in others, had closed up the avenues to compassion; but I do not +recollect a single instance of hard-heartedness towards me in the women. +In all my wanderings and wretchedness I found them uniformly kind and +compassionate; and I can truly say, as my predecessor Mr. Ledyard has +eloquently said before me, "To a woman, I never addressed myself in the +language of decency and friendship, without receiving a decent and +friendly answer. If I was hungry or thirsty, wet or sick, they did not +hesitate, like the men, to perform a generous action. In so free and so +kind a manner did they contribute to my relief, that if I was dry, I +drank the sweetest draught, and if hungry, I ate the coarsest morsel with +a double relish." + +It is surely reasonable to suppose, that the soft and amiable sympathy of +nature, which was thus spontaneously manifested towards me, in my +distress, is displayed by these poor people as occasion requires, much +more strongly towards persons of their own nation and neighbourhood, and +especially when the objects of their compassion are endeared to them by +the ties of consanguinity. Accordingly, the maternal affection (neither +suppressed by the restraints, nor diverted by the solicitudes of +civilized life) is every where conspicuous among them; and creates a +correspondent return of tenderness in the child. An illustration of this +has been given in p. 39. "Strike me," said my attendant, "but do not +curse my mother." The same sentiment I found universally to prevail, and +observed in all parts of Africa, that the greatest affront which could be +offered to a Negro, was to reflect on her who gave him birth. + +It is not strange, that this sense of filial duty and affection among the +Negroes should be less ardent towards the father than the mother. The +system of polygamy, while it weakens the father's attachment, by dividing +it among the children of different wives, concentrates all the mother's +jealous tenderness to one point, the protection of her own offspring. I +perceived with great satisfaction, too, that the maternal solicitude +extended not only to the growth and security of the person, but also, in +a certain degree, to the improvement of the mind of the infant; for one +of the first lessons in which the Mandingo women instruct their children, +is _the practice of truth_. The reader will probably recollect the case +of the unhappy mother, whose son was murdered by the Moorish banditti, at +Funingkedy, p. 86.--Her only consolation, in her uttermost distress, was +the reflection that the poor boy, in the course of his blameless life, +_had never told a lie_. Such testimony, from a fond mother on such an +occasion, must have operated powerfully on the youthful part of the +surrounding spectators. It was at once a tribute of praise to the +deceased, and a lesson to the living. + +The Negro women suckle their children until they are able to walk of +themselves. Three years nursing is not uncommon; and during this period +the husband devotes his whole attention to his other wives. To this +practice it is owing, I presume, that the family of each wife is seldom +very numerous. Few women have more than five or six children. As soon as +an infant is able to walk, it is permitted to run about with great +freedom. The mother is not over solicitous to preserve it from slight +falls and other trifling accidents. A little practice soon enables the +child to take care of itself, and experience acts the part of a nurse. As +they advance in life, the girls are taught to spin cotton, and to beat +corn, and are instructed in other domestic duties; and the boys are +employed in the labours of the field. Both sexes, whether Bushreens or +Kafirs, on attaining the age of puberty, are circumcised. This painful +operation is not considered by the Kafirs so much in the light of a +religious ceremony, as a matter of convenience and utility. They have, +indeed, a superstitious notion that it contributes to render the marriage +state prolific. The operation is performed upon several young people at +the same time; all of whom are exempted from every sort of labour for two +months afterwards. During this period, they form a society called +_Solimanu_. They visit the towns and villages in the neighbourhood, where +they dance and sing, and are well treated by the inhabitants, I had +frequently, in the course of my journey, observed parties of this +description, but they were all males. I had, however, an opportunity of +seeing a female _Solimana_ at Kamalia. + +In the course of the celebration, it frequently happens that some of the +young women get married. If a man takes a fancy to any one of them, it is +not considered as absolutely necessary that he should make an overture to +the girl herself. The first object is to agree with the parents, +concerning the recompence to be given them for the loss of the company +and services of their daughter. The value of two slaves is a common +price, unless the girl is thought very handsome; in which case, the +parents will raise their demand very considerably. If the lover is rich +enough, and willing to give the sum demanded, he then communicates his +wishes to the damsel; but her consent is by no means necessary to the +match; for if the parents agree to it, and eat a few _kolla-nuts_, which +are presented by the suitor as an earnest of the bargain, the young lady +must either have the man of their choice, or continue unmarried, for she +cannot afterwards be given to another. If the parents should attempt it, +the lover is then authorised, by the laws of the country, to seize upon +the girl as his slave. When the day for celebrating the nuptials is fixed +on, a select number of people are invited to be present at the wedding; a +bullock or goat is killed, and great plenty of victuals dressed for the +occasion. As soon as it is dark, the bride is conducted into a hut, where +a company of matrons assist in arranging the wedding dress, which is +always white cotton, and is put on in such a manner as to conceal the +bride from head to foot. Thus arrayed, she is seated upon a mat, in the +middle of the floor, and the old women place themselves in a circle round +her. They then give her a series of instructions, and point out, with +great propriety, what ought to be her future conduct in life. This scene +of instruction, however, is frequently interrupted by girls, who amuse +the company with songs and dances, which are rather more remarkable for +their gaiety than delicacy. While the bride remains within the hut with +the women, the bridegroom devotes his attention to the guests of both +sexes, who assemble without doors, and by distributing among them small +presents of kolla-nuts, and seeing that every one partakes of the good +cheer which is provided, he contributes much to the general hilarity of +the evening. When supper is ended, the company spend the remainder of the +night in singing and dancing, and seldom separate until daybreak. About +midnight, the bride is privately conducted by the women into the hut +which is to be her future residence; and the bridegroom, upon a signal +given, retires from his company. The new married couple, however, are +always disturbed towards morning by the women, who assemble to inspect +the nuptial sheet, (according to the manners of the ancient Hebrews, as +recorded in scripture,) and dance round it. This ceremony is thought +indispensably necessary, nor is the marriage considered as valid without +it. + +The Negroes, as hath been frequently observed, whether Mahomedan or +Pagan, allow a plurality of wives. The Mahomedans alone are by their +religion confined to four; and as the husband commonly pays a great price +for each, he requires from all of them the utmost deference and +submission, and treats them more like hired servants than companions. +They have, however, the management of domestic affairs, and each in +rotation is mistress of the household, and has the care of dressing the +victuals, overlooking the female slaves, &c. But though the African +husbands are possessed of great authority over their wives, I did not +observe that in general they treat them with cruelty; neither did I +perceive that mean jealousy in their dispositions which is so prevalent +among the Moors. They permit their wives to partake of all public +diversions, and this indulgence is seldom abused; for though the Negro +women are very cheerful and frank in their behaviour, they are by no +means given to intrigue: I believe that instances of conjugal infidelity +are not common. When the wives quarrel among themselves, a circumstance +which, from the nature of their situation, must frequently happen, the +husband decides between them; and sometimes finds it necessary to +administer a little corporal chastisement, before tranquillity can be +restored. But if any one of the ladies complains to the chief of the +town, that her husband has unjustly punished her, and shown an undue +partiality to some other of his wives, the affair is brought to a public +trial. In these _palavers_, however, which are conducted chiefly by +married men, I was informed, that the complaint of the wife is not always +considered in a very serious light; and the complainant herself is +sometimes convicted of strife and contention, and left without remedy. If +she murmurs at the decision of the court, the magic rod of _Mumbo Jumbo_ +soon puts an end to the business. + +The children of the Mandingoes are not always named after their +relations; but frequently in consequence of some remarkable occurrence. +Thus, my landlord at Kamalia was called _Karfa_, a word signifying _to +replace_; because he was born shortly after the death of one of his +brothers. Other names are descriptive of good or bad qualities; as +_Modi_, "a good man;" _Fadibba_, "father of the town," &c. Indeed, the +very names of their towns have something descriptive in them; as +_Sibidooloo_, "the town of ciboa trees;" _Kenneyeto_, "victuals here;" +_Dosita_, "lift your spoon." Others seem to be given by way of reproach, +as _Bammakoo_, "wash a crocodile;" _Korankalla_, "no cup to drink from," +&c. A child is named when it is seven or eight days old. The ceremony +commences by shaving the infant's head; and a dish called _Dega_, made of +pounded corn and sour milk, is prepared for the guests. If the parents +are rich, a sheep or a goat is commonly added. The feast is called _Ding +koon lee_, "the child's head shaving." During my stay at Kamalia, I was +present at four different feasts of this kind, and the ceremony was the +same in each, whether the child belonged to a Bushreen or a Kafir. The +schoolmaster who officiated as priest on these occasions, and who is +necessarily a Bushreen, first said a long prayer over the _dega_; during +which every person present took hold of the brim of the calabash with his +right hand. After this, the schoolmaster took the child in his arms, and +said a second prayer, in which he repeatedly solicited the blessing of +God upon the child and upon all the company. When this prayer was ended, +he whispered a few sentences in the child's ear, and spit three times in +its face; after which he pronounced its name aloud, and returned the +infant to the mother. This part of the ceremony being ended, the father +of the child divided the _dega_ into a number of balls, one of which he +distributed to every person present. And inquiry was then made if any +person in the town was dangerously sick, it being usual in such cases to +send the party a large portion of the _dega_, which is thought to possess +great medical virtues.[16] + + [16] Soon after baptism, the children are marked in different parts + of the skin, in a manner resembling what is called tattowing in the + South Sea Islands. + +Among the Negroes, every individual, besides his own proper name, has +likewise a _kontong_, or surname, to denote the family or clan to which +he belongs. Some of these families are very numerous and powerful. It is +impossible to enumerate the various _kontongs_ which are found in +different parts of the country; though the knowledge of many of them is +of great service to the traveller; for as every Negro plumes himself upon +the importance, or the antiquity of his clan, he is much flattered when +he is addressed by his _kontong_. + +Salutations among the Negroes to each other when they meet are always +observed; but those in most general use among the Kafirs are _Abbe +haeretto--E ning seni--Anawari, &c._, all of which have nearly the same +meaning, and signify _are you well?_ or to that effect. There are +likewise salutations which are used at different times of the day, as _E +ning somo_, good morning, &c. The general answer to all salutations is to +repeat the _kontong_ of the person who salutes, or else to repeat the +salutation itself, first pronouncing the word _marhaba_, my friend. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +_The account of the Mandingoes continued.--Their notions in respect of +the planetary bodies, and the figure of the earth.--Their religious +opinions, and belief in a future state.--Their diseases and methods of +treatment.--Their funeral ceremonies, amusements, occupations, diet, +arts, manufactures, &c._ + + +The Mandingoes, and, I believe, the Negroes in general, have no +artificial method of dividing time. They calculate the years by the +number of _rainy seasons_. They portion the year into _moons_, and reckon +the days by so many _suns_. The day they divide into morning, mid-day, +and evening; and further subdivide it, when necessary, by pointing to the +sun's place in the Heavens. I frequently inquired of some of them what +became of the sun during the night, and whether we should see the same +sun, or a different one, in the morning? but I found that they considered +the question as very childish. The subject appeared to them as placed +beyond the reach of human investigation. They had never indulged a +conjecture, nor formed any hypothesis about the matter. The moon, by +varying her form, has more attracted their attention. On the first +appearance of the new moon, which they look upon to be newly created, the +Pagan natives, as well as Mahomedans, say a short prayer; and this seems +to be the only visible adoration which the Kafirs offer up to the Supreme +Being. This prayer is pronounced in a whisper, the party holding up his +hands before his face. Its purport (as I have been assured by many +different people) is to return thanks to God for his kindness through the +existence of the past moon, and to solicit a continuation of his favour +during that of the new one. At the conclusion, they spit, upon their +hands, and rub them over their faces. This seems to be nearly the same +ceremony which prevailed among the Heathens in the days of Job.[17] + + [17] Chap. xxxi. ver. 26, 27, 28. + +Great attention, however, is paid to the changes of this luminary in its +monthly course; and it is thought very unlucky to begin a journey, or any +other work of consequence, in the last quarter. An eclipse, whether of +the sun or moon, is supposed to be effected by witchcraft. The stars are +very little regarded; and the whole study of astronomy appears to them as +a useless pursuit, and attended to by such persons only as deal in magic. + +Their notions of geography are equally puerile. They imagine that the +world is an extended plain, the termination of which no eye has +discovered; it being, they say, overhung with clouds and darkness. They +describe the sea as a large river of salt water, on the farther shore of +which is situated a country called _Tobaubo doo_; "the land of the white +people." At a distance from Tobaubo doo, they describe another country, +which they allege is inhabited by cannibals of gigantic size, called +_Koomi_. This country they call _Jong sang doo_, "the land where the +slaves are sold." But of all countries in the world their own appears to +them as the best, and their own people as the happiest; and they pity the +fate of other nations, who have been placed by Providence in less fertile +and less fortunate districts. + +Some of the religious opinions of the Negroes, though blended with the +weakest credulity and superstition, are not unworthy of attention. I have +conversed with all ranks and conditions, upon the subject of their faith, +and can pronounce, without the smallest shadow of doubt, that the belief +of one God, and of a future state of reward and punishment, is entire and +universal among them. It is remarkable, however, that, except on the +appearance of a new moon, as before related, the Pagan natives do not +think it necessary to offer up prayers and supplications to the Almighty. +They represent the Deity, indeed, as the Creator and Preserver of all +things; but in general they consider him as a Being so remote, and of so +exalted a nature, that it is idle to imagine the feeble supplications of +wretched mortals can reverse the decrees, and change the purposes of +unerring Wisdom. If they are asked, for what reason then do they offer up +a prayer on the appearance of the new moon? the answer is, that custom +has made it necessary; they do it, because their fathers did it before +them. Such is the blindness of unassisted nature! The concerns of this +world, they believe, are committed by the Almighty to the superintendence +and direction of subordinate spirits, over whom they suppose that certain +magical ceremonies have great influence. A white fowl suspended to the +branch of a particular tree, a snake's head, or a few handfuls of fruit, +are offerings which ignorance and superstition frequently present, to +deprecate the wrath, or to conciliate the favour of these tutelary +agents. But it is not often that the Negroes make their religious +opinions the subject of conversation. When interrogated, in particular, +concerning their ideas of a future state, they express themselves with +great reverence, but endeavour to shorten the discussion by +observing--_mo o mo inta allo_, "no man knows any thing about it." They +are content, they say, to follow the precepts and examples of their +forefathers, through the various vicissitudes of life; and when this +world presents no objects of enjoyment or comfort, they seem to look with +anxiety towards another, which they believe will be better suited to +their natures; but concerning which they are far from indulging vain and +delusive conjectures. + +The Mandingoes seldom attain extreme old age. At forty, most of them +become gray haired, and covered with wrinkles; and but few of them +survive the age of fifty-five or sixty. They calculate the years of their +lives, as I have already observed, by the number of rainy seasons, (there +being but one such in the year,) and distinguish each year by a +particular name, founded on some remarkable occurrence which happened in +that year. Thus they say the year of the _Farbanna war_; the year of the +_Kaarta war_; the year on which _Gadou was plundered_, &c. &c.; and I +have no doubt that the year 1796 will in many places be distinguished by +the name of _Tobaubo tambi sang_, "the year the white man passed;" as +such an occurrence would naturally form an epoch in their traditional +history. + +But notwithstanding that longevity is uncommon among them, it appeared to +me, that their diseases are but few in number. Their simple diet, and +active way of life, preserve them from many of those disorders which +embitter the days of luxury and idleness. Fevers and fluxes are the most +common, and the most fatal. For these, they generally apply saphies to +different parts of the body, and perform a great many other superstitious +ceremonies; some of which are, indeed, well calculated to inspire the +patient with the hope of recovery, and divert his mind from brooding over +his own danger. But I have sometimes observed among them a more +systematic mode of treatment. On the first attack of a fever, when the +patient complains of cold, he is frequently placed in a sort of vapour. +This is done by spreading branches of the _nauclea orientalis_ upon hot +wood embers, and laying the patient upon them, wrapped up in a large +cotton cloth. Water is then sprinkled upon the branches, which descending +to the hot embers, soon covers the patient with a cloud of vapour, in +which he is allowed to remain until the embers are almost extinguished. +This practice commonly produces a profuse perspiration, and wonderfully +relieves the sufferer. + +For the dysentery, they use the bark of different trees reduced to +powder; and mixed with the patient's food; but this practice is in +general very unsuccessful. + +The other diseases which prevail among the Negroes are the _yaws_, the +_elephantiasis_, and a _leprosy_ of the very worst kind. This last +mentioned complaint appears, at the beginning, in scurfy spots upon +different parts of the body, which finally settle upon the hands or feet, +where the skin becomes withered, and cracks in many places. At length, +the ends of the fingers swell and ulcerate, the discharge is acrid and +foetid; the nails drop off, and the bones of the fingers become carious, +and separate at the joints. In this manner the disease continues to +spread, frequently until the patient loses all his fingers and toes. Even +the hands and feet are sometimes destroyed by this inveterate malady, to +which the Negroes give the name of _balla jou_, "incurable." + +The _Guinea worm_ is likewise very common in certain places, especially +at the commencement of the rainy season. The Negroes attribute this +disease, which has been described by many writers, to bad water, and +allege that the people who drink from wells are more subject to it than +those who drink from streams. To the same cause they attribute the +swelling of the glands of the neck, (goitres,) which are very common in +some parts of Bambarra. I observed also, in the interior countries, a few +instances of simple gonorrhoea; but never the confirmed lues. On the +whole, it appeared to me that the Negroes are better surgeons than +physicians. I found them very successful in their management of fractures +and dislocations, and their splints and bandages are simple, and easily +removed. The patient is laid upon a soft mat, and the fractured limb is +frequently bathed with cold water. All abscesses they open with the +actual cautery; and the dressings are composed of either soft leaves, +shea-butter, or cows' dung, as the case seems, in their judgment, to +require. Towards the Coast, where a supply of European lancets can be +procured, they sometimes perform phlebotomy; and in cases of local +inflammation, a curious sort of cupping is practised. This operation is +performed by making incisions in the part, and applying to it a bullock's +horn, with a small hole in the end. The operator then takes a piece of +bees-wax in his mouth, and putting his lips to the hole, extracts the air +from the horn; and by a dexterous use of his tongue, stops up the hole +with the wax. This method is found to answer the purpose, and in general +produces a plentiful discharge. + +When a person of consequence dies, the relations and neighbours meet +together, and manifest their sorrow by loud and dismal howlings. A +bullock or goat is killed for such persons as come to assist at the +funeral, which generally takes place in the evening of the same day on +which the party died. The Negroes have no appropriate burial places, and +frequently dig the grave in the floor of the deceased's hut, or in the +shade of a favourite tree. The body is dressed in white cotton, and +wrapped up in a mat. It is carried to the grave in the dusk of the +evening by the relations. If the grave is without the walls of the town, +a number of prickly bushes are laid upon it, to prevent the wolves from +digging up the body; but I never observed that any stone was placed over +the grave, as a monument or memorial. + +Hitherto I have considered the Negroes chiefly in a moral light, and +confined myself to the most prominent features in their mental character, +their domestic amusements, occupations, and diet. Their arts and +manufactures, with some other subordinate objects, are now to be noticed. + +Of their music and dances, some account has incidentally been given in +different parts of my Journal. On the first of these heads, I have now to +add a list of their musical instruments, the principal of which are--the +_koonting_, a sort of guitar with three strings;--the _korro_, a large +harp, with eighteen strings;--the _simbing_, a small harp with seven +strings;--the _balafou_, an instrument composed of twenty pieces of hard +wood of different lengths, with the shells of gourds hung underneath, to +increase the sound;--the _tangtang_, a drum, open at the lower end; and, +lastly, the _tabala_, a large drum, commonly used to spread an alarm +through the country. Besides these, they make use of small flutes, +bowstrings, elephants' teeth, and bells; and at all their dances and +concerts, _clapping of hands_ appears to constitute a necessary part of +the chorus. + +With the love of music is naturally connected a taste for poetry; and, +fortunately for the poets of Africa, they are in a great measure exempted +from that neglect and indigence, which, in more polished countries, +commonly attend the votaries of the Muses. They consist of two classes; +the most numerous are the _singing men_, called _Jilli kea_, mentioned in +a former part of my narrative. One or more of these may be found in every +town. They sing extempore songs, in honour of their chief men, or any +other persons who are willing to give "solid pudding for empty praise." +But a nobler part of their office is to recite the historical events of +their country; hence, in war they accompany the soldiers to the field, in +order, by reciting the great actions of their ancestors, to awaken in +them a spirit of glorious emulation. The other class are devotees of the +Mahomedan faith, who travel about the country, singing devout hymns, and +performing religious ceremonies, to conciliate the favour of the +Almighty; either in averting calamity, or insuring success to any +enterprise. Both descriptions of these itinerant bards are much employed +and respected by the people, and very liberal contributions are made for +them. + +The usual diet of the Negroes is somewhat different in different +districts. In general, the people of free condition breakfast about +daybreak, upon gruel made of meal and water, with a little of the fruit +of the tamarind, to give it an acid taste. About two o'clock in the +afternoon, a sort of hasty pudding, with a little shea-butter, is the +common meal; but the supper constitutes the principal repast, and is +seldom ready before midnight. This consists almost universally of +kouskous, with a small portion of animal food, or shea-butter, mixed with +it. In eating, the Kafirs as well as Mahomedans use the right hand only. + +The beverage of the Pagan Negroes is beer and mead; of each of which they +frequently drink to excess. The Mahomedan converts drink nothing but +water. The natives of all descriptions take snuff, and smoke tobacco; +their pipes are made of wood, with an earthen bowl of curious +workmanship. But in the interior countries, the greatest of all luxuries +is salt. It would appear strange to an European, to see a child suck a +piece of rock-salt as if it were sugar. This, however, I have frequently +seen; although, in the inland parts, the poorer class of inhabitants are +so very rarely indulged with this precious article, that to say _a man +eats salt with his victuals_, is the same as saying _he is a rich man_. I +have myself suffered great inconvenience from the scarcity of this +article. The long use of vegetable food creates so painful a longing for +salt, that no words can sufficiently describe it. + +The Negroes in general, and the Mandingoes in particular, are considered +by the whites on the Coast as an indolent and inactive people; I think +without reason. The nature of the climate is, indeed, unfavourable to +great exertion; but surely a people cannot justly be denominated +habitually indolent, whose wants are supplied, not by the spontaneous +productions of nature, but by their own exertions. Few people work +harder, when occasion requires, than the Mandingoes; but not having many +opportunities of turning to advantage the superfluous produce of their +labour, they are content with cultivating as much ground only as is +necessary for their own support. The labours of the field give them +pretty full employment during the rains; and in the dry season, the +people who live in the vicinity of large rivers employ themselves chiefly +in fishing. The fish are taken in wicker baskets, or with small cotton +nets; and are preserved by being first dried in the sun, and afterwards +rubbed with shea butter, to prevent them from contracting fresh moisture. +Others of the natives employ themselves in hunting. Their weapons are +bows and arrows; but the arrows in common use are not poisoned.[18] They +are very dexterous marksmen, and will hit a lizard on a tree, or any +other small object, at an amazing distance. They likewise kill +Guinea-fowls, partridges, and pigeons, but never on the wing. While the +men are occupied in these pursuits, the women are very diligent in +manufacturing cotton cloth. They prepare the cotton for spinning, by +laying it in small quantities at a time, upon a smooth stone, or piece of +wood, and rolling the seeds out with a thick iron spindle; and they spin +it with the distaff. The thread is not fine, but well twisted, and makes +a very durable cloth. A woman, with common diligence, will spin from six +to nine garments of this cloth in one year; which, according to its +fineness, will sell for a minkalli and a half, or two minkallies +each.[19] The weaving is performed by the men. The loom is made exactly +upon the same principle as that of Europe; but so small and narrow, that +the web is seldom more than four inches broad. The shuttle is of the +common construction; but as the thread is coarse, the chamber is somewhat +larger than the European. + + [18] Poisoned arrows are used chiefly in war. The poison, which is + said to be very deadly, is prepared from a shrub called _koona_ (a + species of _echites_,) which is very common in the woods. The leaves + of this shrub, when boiled with a small quantity of water, yield a + thick black juice, into which the Negroes dip a cotton thread; this + thread they fasten round the iron of the arrow, in such a manner that + it is almost impossible to extract the arrow, when it has sunk beyond + the barbs, without leaving the iron point, and the poisoned thread, + in the wound. + + [19] A minkalli is a quantity of gold, nearly equal in value to ten + shillings sterling. + +The women dye this cloth of a rich and lasting blue colour, by the +following simple process: The leaves of the indigo when fresh gathered +are pounded in a wooden mortar, and mixed in a large earthen jar, with a +strong ley of wood ashes; chamber-ley is sometimes added. The cloth is +steeped in this mixture, and allowed to remain until it has acquired the +proper shade. In Kaarta and Ludamar, where the indigo is not plentiful, +they collect the leaves, and dry them in the sun; and when they wish to +use them, they reduce a sufficient quantity to powder, and mix it with +the ley as before mentioned. Either way, the colour is very beautiful, +with a fine purple gloss, and equal, in my opinion, to the best Indian or +European blue. This cloth is cut into various pieces, and sewed into +garments, with needles of the natives' own making. + +As the arts of weaving, dyeing, sewing, &c. may easily be acquired, those +who exercise them are not considered in Africa as following any +particular profession; for almost every slave can weave, and every boy +can sew. The only artists which are distinctly acknowledged as such by +the Negroes, and who value themselves on exercising appropriate and +peculiar trades, are the manufacturers of _leather_ and of _iron_. The +first of these are called _Karrankea_, (or, as the word is sometimes +pronounced, _Gaungay_.) They are to be found in almost every town, and +they frequently travel through the country in the exercise of their +calling. They tan and dress leather with very great expedition, by +steeping the hide first in a mixture of wood-ashes and water, until it +parts with the hair; and afterwards by using the pounded leaves of a tree +called _goo_, as an astringent. They are at great pains to render the +hide as soft and pliant as possible, by rubbing it frequently between +their hands, and beating it upon a stone. The hides of bullocks are +converted chiefly into sandals, and therefore require less care in +dressing than the skins of sheep and goats, which are used for covering +quivers and saphies, and in making sheaths for swords and knives, belts, +pockets, and a variety of ornaments. These skins are commonly dyed of a +red or yellow colour; the red, by means of millet stalks reduced to +powder; and the yellow, by the root of a plant, the name of which I have +forgotten. + +The manufacturers in iron are not so numerous as the _Karrankeas_; but +they appear to have studied their business with equal diligence. The +Negroes on the Coast being cheaply supplied with iron from the European +traders, never attempt the manufacturing of this article themselves; but +in the inland parts, the natives smelt this useful metal in such +quantities, as not only to supply themselves from it with all necessary +weapons and instruments, but even to make it an article of commerce with +some of the neighbouring states. During my stay at Kamalia, there was a +smelting furnace at a short distance from the hut where I lodged, and the +owner and his workmen made no secret about the manner of conducting the +operation; and readily allowed me to examine the furnace, and assist them +in breaking the ironstone. The furnace was a circular tower of clay, +about ten feet high, and three in diameter; surrounded in two places with +withes, to prevent the clay from cracking and falling to pieces by the +violence of the heat. Round the lower part, on a level with the +ground,(but not so low as the bottom of the furnace, which was somewhat +concave,) were made seven openings, into every one of which were placed +three tubes of clay, and the openings again plastered up in such a manner +that no air could enter the furnace but through the tubes; by the opening +and shutting of which they regulated the fire. These tubes were formed by +plastering a mixture of clay and grass round a smooth roller of wood, +which as soon as the clay began to harden was withdrawn, and the tube +left to dry in the sun. The ironstone which I saw was very heavy, and of +a dull red colour, with greyish specks; it was broken into pieces about +the size of a hen's egg. A bundle of dry wood was first put into the +furnace, and covered with a considerable quantity of charcoal, which was +brought ready burnt from the woods. Over this was laid a stratum of +ironstone, and then another of charcoal, and so on until the furnace was +quite full. The fire was applied through one of the tubes, and blown for +some time with bellows made of goats'-skins. The operation went on very +slowly at first, and it was some hours before the flame appeared above +the furnace; but after this, it burnt with great violence all the first +night, and the people who attended put in at times more charcoal. On the +day following the fire was not so fierce, and on the second night some of +the tubes were withdrawn, and the air allowed to have freer access to the +furnace; but the heat was still very great, and a bluish flame rose some +feet above the top of the furnace. On the third day from the commencement +of the operation, all the tubes were taken out, the ends of many of them +being vitrified with the heat; but the metal was not removed until some +days afterwards, when the whole was perfectly cool. Part of the furnace +was then taken down, and the iron appeared in the form of a large +irregular mass, with pieces of charcoal adhering to it. It was sonorous; +and when any portion was broken off, the fracture exhibited a granulated +appearance, like broken steel. The owner informed me that many parts of +this cake were useless, but still there was good iron enough to repay him +for his trouble. This iron, or rather steel, is formed into various +instruments, by being repeatedly heated in a forge, the heat of which is +urged by a pair of double bellows of a very simple construction, being +made of two goats' skins; the tubes from which unite, before they enter +the forge, and supply a constant and very regular blast. The hammer, +forceps, and anvil, are all very simple, and the workmanship +(particularly in the formation of knives and spears) is not destitute of +merit. The iron, indeed, is hard and brittle, and requires much labour +before it can be made to answer the purpose. + +Most of the African blacksmiths are acquainted also with the method of +smelting gold, in which process they use an alkaline salt, obtained from +a ley of burnt corn-stalks evaporated to dryness. They likewise draw the +gold into wire, and form it into a variety of ornaments, some of which +are executed with a great deal of taste and ingenuity. + +Such is the chief information I obtained concerning the present state of +arts and manufactures in those regions of Africa which I explored in my +journey. I might add, though it is scarce worthy observation, that in +Bambarra and Kaarta, the natives make very beautiful baskets, hats, and +other articles, both for use and ornament, from rushes, which they stain +of different colours; and they contrive also to cover their calabashes +with interwoven cane, dyed in the same manner. + +In all the laborious occupations above described, the master and his +slaves work together, without any distinction of superiority. Hired +servants, by which I mean persons of free condition, voluntarily working +for pay, are unknown in Africa; and this observation naturally leads me +to consider the condition of the slaves, and the various means by which +they are reduced to so miserable a state of servitude. This unfortunate +class are found, I believe, in all parts of this extensive country, and +constitute a considerable branch of commerce with the states on the +Mediterranean, as well as with the nations of Europe. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +_Observations concerning the state and sources of slavery in Africa._ + + +A state of subordination, and certain inequalities of rank and condition, +are inevitable in every stage of civil society; but when this +subordination is carried to so great a length, that the persons and +services of one part of the community are entirely at the disposal of +another part, it may then be denominated a state of slavery; and in this +condition of life, a great body of the Negro inhabitants of Africa have +continued from the most early period of their history; with this +aggravation, that their children are born to no other inheritance. + +The slaves in Africa, I suppose, are nearly in the proportion of three to +one to the freemen. They claim no reward for their services, except food +and clothing; and are treated with kindness or severity, according to the +good or bad disposition of their masters. Custom, however, has +established certain rules with regard to the treatment of slaves, which +it is thought dishonourable to violate. Thus, the domestic slaves, or +such as are born in a man's own house, are treated with more lenity than +those which are purchased with money. The authority of the master over +the domestic slave, as I have elsewhere observed, extends only to +reasonable correction; for the master cannot sell his domestic, without +having first brought him to a public trial, before the chief men of the +place.[20] But these restrictions on the power of the master extend not +to the case of prisoners taken in war, nor to that of slaves purchased +with money. All these unfortunate beings are considered as strangers and +foreigners, who have no right to the protection of the law, and may be +treated with severity, or sold to a stranger, according to the pleasure +of their owners. There are, indeed, regular markets, where slaves of this +description are bought and sold; and the value of a slave, in the eye of +an African purchaser, increases in proportion to his distance from his +native kingdom; for when slaves are only a few days' journey from the +place of their nativity, they frequently effect their escape; but when +one or more kingdoms intervene, escape being more difficult, they are +more readily reconciled to their situation. On this account, the unhappy +slave is frequently transferred from one dealer to another, until he has +lost all hopes of returning to his native kingdom. The slaves which are +purchased by the Europeans on the Coast are chiefly of this description; +a few of them are collected in the petty wars, hereafter to be described, +which take place near the Coast; but by far the greater number are +brought down in large caravans from the inland countries, of which many +are unknown, even by name, to the Europeans. The slaves which are thus +brought from the interior may be divided into two distinct classes; +_first_, such as were slaves from their birth having been born of +enslaved mothers: _secondly_, such as were born free, but who afterwards, +by whatever means, became slaves. Those of the first description are by +far the most numerous; for prisoners taken in war (at least such as are +taken in open and declared war, when one kingdom avows hostilities +against another) are generally of this description. The comparatively +small proportion of free people to the enslaved, throughout Africa, has +already been noticed; and it must be observed, that men of free condition +have many advantages over the slaves, even in war time. They are in +general better armed, and well mounted; and can either fight or escape +with some hopes of success: but the slaves who have only their spears and +bows, and of whom great numbers are loaded with baggage, become an easy +prey. Thus, when Mansong, King of Bambarra, made war upon Kaarta, (as I +have related in a former chapter,) he took in one day nine hundred +prisoners, of which number not more than seventy were free men. This +account I received from Daman Jumma, who had thirty slaves at Kemmoo, all +of whom were made prisoners by Mansong. Again, when a freeman is taken +prisoner, his friends will sometimes ransom him by giving two slaves in +exchange; but when a slave is taken, he has no hopes of such redemption. +To these disadvantages, it is to be added, that the Slatees, who purchase +slaves in the interior countries, and carry them down to the Coast for +sale, constantly prefer such as have been in that condition of life from +their infancy, well knowing that these have been accustomed to hunger and +fatigue, and are better able to sustain the hardships of a long and +painful journey, than free men; and on their reaching the Coast, if no +opportunity offers of selling them to advantage, they can easily be made +to maintain themselves by their labour; neither are they so apt to +attempt making their escape, as those who have once tasted the blessings +of freedom. + + [20] In time of famine, the master is permitted to sell one or more + of his domestics, to purchase provisions for his family; and in case + of the master's insolvency, the domestic slaves are sometimes seized + upon by the creditors; and if the master cannot redeem them, they are + liable to be sold for payment of his debts. These are the only cases + that I recollect, in which the domestic slaves are liable to be sold, + without any misconduct or demerit of their own. + +Slaves of the second description generally become such by one or other of +the following causes: 1. Captivity. 2. Famine. 3. Insolvency. 4. Crimes. +A freeman may, by the established customs of Africa, become a slave by +being taken in war. War is, of all others, the most productive source, +and was probably the origin of slavery; for when one nation had taken +from another a greater number of captives than could be exchanged on +equal terms, it is natural to suppose that the conquerors, finding it +inconvenient to maintain their prisoners, would compel them to labour; at +first, perhaps, only for their own support, but afterwards to support +their masters. Be this as it may, it is a known fact, that prisoners of +war in Africa are the slaves of the conquerors; and when the weak or +unsuccessful warrior begs for mercy beneath the uplifted spear of his +opponent, he gives up at the same time his claim to liberty; and +purchases his life at the expense of his freedom. + +In a country, divided into a thousand petty states, mostly independent +and jealous of each other; where every freeman is accustomed to arms, and +fond of military achievements; where the youth who has practised the bow +and spear from his infancy, longs for nothing so much as an opportunity +to display his valour, it is natural to imagine that wars frequently +originate from very frivolous provocation. When one nation is more +powerful than another, a pretext is seldom wanting for commencing +hostilities. Thus the war between Kajaaga and Kasson was occasioned by +the detention of a fugitive slave; that between Bambarra and Kaarta by +the loss of a few cattle. Other cases of the same nature perpetually +occur, in which the folly or mad ambition of their princes, and the zeal +of their religious enthusiasts, give full employment to the scythe of +desolation. + +The wars of Africa are of two kinds, which are distinguished by different +appellations; that species which bears the greatest resemblance to our +European contests is denominated _killi_, a word signifying "to call +out," because such wars are openly avowed, and previously declared. Wars +of this description in Africa commonly terminate, however, in the course +of a single campaign. A battle is fought; the vanquished seldom think of +rallying again; the whole inhabitants become panic-struck, and the +conquerors have only to bind the slaves, and carry off their plunder and +their victims. Such of the prisoners as, through age or infirmity, are +unable to endure fatigue, or are found unfit for sale, are considered as +useless, and I have no doubt are frequently put to death. The same fate +commonly awaits a chief, or any other person who has taken a very +distinguished part in the war. And here it may be observed, that, +notwithstanding this exterminating system, it is surprising to behold how +soon an African town is rebuilt and re-peopled. The circumstance arises +probably from this, that their pitched battles are few; the weakest know +their own situation, and seek safety in flight. When their country has +been desolated, and their ruined towns and villages deserted by the +enemy, such of the inhabitants as have escaped the sword, and the chain, +generally return, though with cautious steps, to the place of their +nativity; for it seems to be the universal wish of mankind, to spend the +evening of their days where they passed their infancy. The poor Negro +feels this desire in its full force. To him no water is sweet but what is +drawn from his own well; and no tree has so cool and pleasant a shade as +the _tabba_ tree[21] of his native village. When war compels him to +abandon the delightful spot in which he first drew his breath, and seek +for safety in some other kingdom, his time is spent in talking about the +country of his ancestors; and no sooner is peace restored than he turns +his back upon the land of strangers, rebuilds with haste his fallen +walls, and exults to see the smoke ascend from his native village. + + [21] This is a large spreading tree, (a species of _sterculia_,) + under which the Bentang is commonly placed. + +The other species of African warfare is distinguished by the appellation +of _tegria_, "plundering or stealing." It arises from a sort of +hereditary feud which the inhabitants of one nation or district bear +towards another. No immediate cause of hostility is assigned, or notice +of attack given; but the inhabitants of each watch every opportunity to +plunder and distress the objects of their animosity by predatory +excursions. These are very common, particularly about the beginning of +the dry season, when the labour of the harvest is over, and provisions +are plentiful. Schemes of vengeance are then meditated. The chief man +surveys the number and activity of his vassals, as they brandish their +spears at festivals; and elated with his own importance, turns his whole +thoughts towards revenging some depredation or insult, which either he or +his ancestors may have received from a neighbouring state. + +Wars of this description are generally conducted with great secrecy. A +few resolute individuals, headed by some person of enterprise and +courage, march quietly through the woods, surprise in the night some +unprotected village, and carry off the inhabitants and their effects, +before their neighbours can come to their assistance. One morning during +my stay at Kamalia, we were all much alarmed by a party of this kind. The +King of Fooladoo's son, with five hundred horsemen, passed secretly +through the woods, a little to the southward of Kamalia, and on the +morning following plundered three towns belonging to Madigai, a powerful +chief in Jallonkadoo. + +The success of this expedition encouraged the governor of Bangassi, a +town in Fooladoo, to make a second inroad upon another part of the same +country. Having assembled about two hundred of his people, he passed the +river Kokoro in the night, and carried off a great number of prisoners. +Several of the inhabitants who had escaped these attacks were afterwards +seized by the Mandingoes, as they wandered about in the woods, or +concealed themselves in the glens and strong places of the mountains. + +These plundering excursions always produce speedy retaliation; and when +large parties cannot be collected for this purpose, a few friends will +combine together, and advance into the enemy's country, with a view to +plunder, or carry off the inhabitants. A single individual has been known +to take his bow and quiver, and proceed in like manner. Such an attempt +is doubtless in him an act of rashness; but when it is considered that in +one of these predatory wars, he has probably been deprived of his child, +or his nearest relation, his situation will rather call for pity than +censure. The poor sufferer, urged on by the feelings of domestic or +paternal attachment, and the ardour of revenge, conceals himself among +the bushes, until some young or unarmed person passes by. He then, +tiger-like, springs upon his prey; drags his victim into the thicket, and +in the night carries him off as a slave. + +When a Negro has, by means like these, once fallen into the hands of his +enemies, he is either retained as the slave of his conqueror, or bartered +into a distant kingdom; for an African, when he has once subdued his +enemy, will seldom give him an opportunity of lifting up his hand against +him at a future period. A conqueror commonly disposes of his captives +according to the rank which they held in their native kingdom. Such of +the domestic slaves as appear to be of a mild disposition, and +particularly the young women, are retained as his own slaves. Others that +display marks of discontent are disposed of in a distant country; and +such of the freemen or slaves, as have taken an active part in the war, +are either sold to the Slatees or put to death. War, therefore, is +certainly the most general and most productive source of slavery; and the +desolations of war often (but not always) produce the second cause of +slavery, _famine_; in which case a freeman becomes a slave to avoid a +greater calamity. + +Perhaps, by a philosophic and reflecting mind, death itself would +scarcely be considered as a greater calamity than slavery; but the poor +Negro, when fainting with hunger, thinks, like Esau of old, "Behold, I am +at the point to die, and what profit shall this birth-right do to me?" +There are many instances of free men voluntarily surrendering up their +liberty to save their lives. During a great scarcity, which lasted for +three years, in the countries of the Gambia, great numbers of people +became slaves in this manner. Dr. Laidley assured me that, at that time, +many free men came and begged, with great earnestness, _to be put upon +his slave chain_, to save them from perishing of hunger. Large families +are very often exposed to absolute want; and as the parents have almost +unlimited authority over their children, it frequently happens, in all +parts of Africa, that some of the latter are sold to purchase provisions +for the rest of the family. When I was at Jarra, Daman Jumma pointed out +to me three young slaves which he had purchased in this manner. I have +already related another instance which I saw at Wonda; and I was informed +that in Fooladoo, at that time, it was a very common practice. + +The third cause of slavery is _insolvency_. Of all the offences (if +insolvency may be so called) to which the laws of Africa have affixed the +punishment of slavery, this is the most common. A Negro trader commonly +contracts debts on some mercantile speculation, either from his +neighbours, to purchase such articles as will sell to advantage in a +distant market, or from the European traders on the Coast; payment to be +made in a given time. In both cases, the situation of the adventurer is +exactly the same. If he succeeds, he may secure an independency. If he is +unsuccessful, his person and services are at the disposal of another; for +in Africa, not only the effects of the insolvent, but even the insolvent +himself, are sold to satisfy the lawful demands of his creditors.[22] + + [22] When a Negro takes up goods on credit from any of the + Europeans on the Coast, and does not make payment at the time + appointed, the European is authorized, by the laws of the country, to + seize upon the debtor himself, if he can find him; or if he cannot be + found, on any person of his family; or in the last resort, on any + native of the same kingdom. The person thus seized on is detained + while his friends are sent in quest of the debtor. When he is found, + a meeting is called of the chief people of the place, and the debtor + is compelled to ransom his friend by fulfilling his engagements. If + he is unable to do this, his person is immediately secured and sent + down to the Coast, and the other released. If the debtor cannot be + found, the person seized on is obliged to pay double the amount of + the debt, or is himself sold into slavery. I was given to understand, + however, that this part of the law is seldom enforced. + +The fourth cause above enumerated, is _the commission of crimes, on which +the laws of the country affix slavery as a punishment_. In Africa, the +only offences of this class are murder, adultery, and witchcraft; and I +am happy to say, that they did not appear to me to be common. In cases of +murder, I was informed, that the nearest relation of the deceased had it +in his power, after conviction, either to kill the offender with his own +hand, or sell him into slavery. When adultery occurs, it is generally +left to the option of the person injured, either to sell the culprit, or +accept such a ransom for him as he may think equivalent to the injury he +has sustained. By witchcraft is meant pretended magic, by which the lives +or health of persons are affected; in other words, it is the +administering of poison. No trial for this offence, however, came under +my observation while I was in Africa, and I therefore suppose that the +crime, and its punishment, occur but very seldom. + +When a freeman has become a slave by any one of the causes before +mentioned, he generally continues so for life, and his children (if they +are born of an enslaved mother) are brought up in the same state of +servitude. There are, however, a few instances of slaves obtaining their +freedom, and sometimes even with the consent of their masters; as by +performing some singular piece of service, or by going to battle, and +bringing home two slaves as a ransom; but the common way of regaining +freedom is by escape; and when slaves have once set their minds on +running away, they often succeed. Some of them will wait for years before +an opportunity presents itself, and during that period show no signs of +discontent. In general, it may be remarked, that slaves who come from a +hilly country, and have been much accustomed to hunting and travel, are +more apt to attempt their escape than such as are born in a flat country, +and have been employed in cultivating the land. + +Such are the general outlines of that system of slavery which prevails in +Africa; and it is evident, from its nature and extent, that it is a +system of no modern date. It probably had its origin in the remote ages +of antiquity, before the Mahomedans explored a path across the Desert. +How far it is maintained and supported by the slave traffic, which for +two hundred years the nations of Europe have carried on with the natives +of the Coast, it is neither within my province nor in my power to +explain. If my sentiments should be required concerning the effect which +a discontinuance of that commerce would produce on the manners of the +natives, I should have no hesitation in observing, that in the present +unenlightened state of their minds, my opinion is, the effect would +neither be so extensive or beneficial, as many wise and worthy persons +fondly expect. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +_Of gold-dust, and the manner in which it is collected.--Process of +washing it.--Its value in Africa,--Of ivory.--Surprise of the Negroes at +the eagerness of the Europeans for this commodity.--Scattered teeth +frequently picked up in the woods.--Mode of hunting the elephant.--Some +reflections on the unimproved state of the country, &c._ + + +Those valuable commodities, gold and ivory, (the next objects of our +inquiry,) have probably been found in Africa from the first ages of the +world. They are reckoned among its most important productions in the +earliest records of its history. + +It has been observed, that gold is seldom or never discovered, except in +_mountainous_ and _barren_ countries. Nature, it is said, thus making +amends in one way, for her penuriousness in the other. This, however, is +not wholly true. Gold is found in considerable quantities throughout +every part of Manding; a country which is indeed hilly, but cannot +properly be called mountainous, much less barren. It is also found in +great plenty in Jallonkadoo, (particularly about Boori,) another hilly, +but by no means an infertile country. It is remarkable, that in the place +last mentioned, (Boori,) which is situated about four days' journey to +the south-west of Kamalia, the salt market is often supplied, at the same +time, with rock-salt from the Great Desert, and sea-salt from the Rio +Grande; the price of each, at this distance from its source, being nearly +the same; and the dealers in each, whether Moors from the north, or +Negroes from the west, are invited thither by the same motives, that of +bartering their salt for gold. + +The gold of Manding, so far as I could learn, is never found in any +matrix or vein, but always in small grains, nearly in a pure state, from +the size of a pin's head to that of a pea; scattered through a large body +of sand or clay; and in this state it is called by the Mandingoes _sanoo +munko_, "gold powder," It is, however, extremely probable, by what I +could learn of the situation of the ground, that most of it has +originally been washed down by repeated torrents from the neighbouring +hills. The manner in which it is collected is nearly as follows:-- + +About the beginning of December, when the harvest is over, and the +streams and torrents have greatly subsided, the Mansa, or chief man of +the town, appoints a day to begin _sanoo koo_, "gold washing;" and the +women are sure to have themselves in readiness by the time appointed. A +hoe, or spade, for digging up the sand, two or three calabashes for +washing it in, and a few quills for containing the gold dust, are all the +implements necessary for the purpose. On the morning of their departure, +a bullock is killed for the first day's entertainment, and a number of +prayers and charms are used to ensure success; for a failure on that day +is thought a bad omen. The Manga of Kamalia, with fourteen of his people, +were, I remember, so much disappointed in their first day's washing, that +a very few of them had resolution to persevere; and the few that did had +but very indifferent success: which indeed is not much to be wondered at, +for, instead of opening some untried place, they continue to dig and wash +in the same spot where they had dug and washed for years; and where, of +course, but few large grains could be left. + +The washing the sands of the streams is by far the easiest way of +obtaining the gold-dust; but in most places the sands have been so +narrowly searched before, that unless the stream takes some new course, +the gold is found but in small quantities. While some of the party are +busied in washing the sands, others employ themselves farther up the +torrent, where the rapidity of the stream has carried away all the clay, +sand, &c. and left nothing but small pebbles. The search among these is a +very troublesome task. I have seen women who have had the skin worn off +the tops of their fingers in this employment. Sometimes, however, they +are rewarded by finding pieces of gold, which they call _sanoo birro_, +"gold-stones," that amply repay them for their trouble. A woman and her +daughter, inhabitants of Kamalia, found in one day two pieces of this +kind; one of five drachms, and the other of three drachms, weight. But +the most certain and profitable way of washing is practised in the height +of the dry season, by digging a deep pit, like a draw-well, near some +hill which has previously been discovered to contain gold. The pit is dug +with small spades or corn hoes, and the earth is drawn up in large +calabashes. As the Negroes dig through the different strata of clay or +sand, a calabash or two of each is washed, by way of experiment; and in +this manner the labourers proceed, until they come to a stratum +containing gold; or until they are obstructed by rocks, or inundated by +water. In general, when they come to a stratum of fine reddish sand, with +small black specks therein, they find gold in some proportion or other, +and send up large calabashes full of the sand, for the women to wash; for +though the pit is dug by the men, the gold is always washed by the women, +who are accustomed from their infancy to a similar operation, in +separating the husks of corn from the meal. + +As I never descended into any of these pits, I cannot say in what manner +they are worked under ground. Indeed, the situation in which I was placed +made it necessary for me to be cautious not to incur the suspicion of the +natives, by examining too far into the riches of their country; but the +manner of separating the gold from the sand is very simple, and is +frequently performed by the women in the middle of the town; for when the +searchers return from the valleys in the evening, they commonly bring +with them each a calabash or two of sand, to be washed by such of the +females as remain at home. The operation is simply as follows:-- + +A portion of sand or clay (for gold is sometimes found in a brown +coloured clay) is put into a large calabash, and mixed with a sufficient +quantity of water. The woman, whose office it is, then shakes the +calabash in such a manner, as to mix the sand and water together, and +give the whole a rotatory motion; at first gently, but afterwards more +quick, until a small portion of sand and water, at every revolution, +flies over the brim of the calabash. The sand thus separated is only the +coarsest particles mixed with a little muddy water. After the operation +has been continued for some time, the sand is allowed to subside, and the +water poured off; a portion of coarse sand, which is now uppermost in the +calabash, is removed by the hand, and fresh water being added, the +operation is repeated until the water comes off almost pure. The woman +now takes a second calabash, and shakes the sand and water gently from +the one to the other, reserving that portion of sand which is next the +bottom of the calabash, and which is most likely to contain the gold. +This small quantity is mixed with some pure water, and being moved about +in the calabash, is carefully examined. If a few particles of gold are +picked out, the contents of the other calabash are examined in the same +manner; but in general, the party is well contented; if she can obtain +three or four grains from the contents of both calabashes. Some women, +however, by long practice, become so well acquainted with the nature of +the sand, and the mode of washing it, that they will collect gold, where +others cannot find a single particle. The gold dust is kept in quills, +stopt up with cotton, and the washers are fond of displaying a number of +these quills in their hair. Generally speaking, if a person uses common +diligence, in a proper soil, it is supposed that as much gold may be +collected by him in the course of the dry season as is equal to the value +of two slaves. + +Thus simple is the process by which the Negroes obtain gold in Manding; +and it is evident, from this account, that the country contains a +considerable portion of this precious metal; for many of the smaller +particles must necessarily escape the observation of the naked eye; and +as the natives generally search the sands of streams at a considerable +distance from the hills, and consequently far removed from the mines +where the gold was originally produced, the labourers are sometimes but +ill paid for their trouble. Minute particles only of this heavy metal can +be carried by the current to any considerable distance; the larger must +remain deposited near the original source from whence they came. Were the +gold-bearing streams to be traced to their fountains, and the hills from +whence they spring properly examined, the sand in which the gold is there +deposited would, no doubt, be found to contain particles of a much larger +size;[23] and even the small grains might be collected to considerable +advantage by the use of quicksilver, and other improvements, with which +the natives are at present unacquainted. + + [23] I am informed that the gold mine, as it is called, in Wicklow, + in Ireland, which was discovered in the year 1795, is near the top, + and upon the steep slope of a mountain. Here, pieces of gold of + several ounces weight were frequently found. What would have been + gold dust two miles below was here golden gravel; that is, each grain + was like a small pebble in size, and one piece was found which + weighed near twenty-two ounces, troy. + +Part of this gold is converted into ornaments for the women; but, in +general, these ornaments are more to be admired for their weight than +their workmanship. They are massy and inconvenient, particularly the ear +rings, which are commonly so heavy as to pull down and lacerate the lobe +of the ear; to avoid which, they are supported by a thong of red leather, +which passes over the crown of the head from one ear to the other. The +necklace displays greater fancy; and the proper arrangement of the +different beads and plates of gold, is the great criterion of taste and +elegance. When a lady of consequence is in full dress, her gold ornaments +may be worth altogether from fifty to eighty pounds sterling. + +A small quantity of gold is likewise employed by the Slatees, in +defraying the expenses of their journies to and from the Coast; but by +far the greater proportion is annually carried away by the Moors in +exchange for salt and other merchandize. During my stay at Kamalia, the +gold collected by the different traders at that place, for salt alone, +was nearly equal to one hundred and ninety-eight pounds sterling; and as +Kamalia is but a small town, and not much resorted to by the trading +Moors, this quantity must have borne a very small proportion to the gold +collected at Kancaba, Kancaree, and some other large towns. + +The value of salt in this part of Africa is very great. One slab, about +two feet and a half in length, fourteen inches in breadth, and two inches +in thickness, will sometimes sell for about two pounds ten shillings +sterling, and from one pound fifteen shillings to two pounds, may be +considered as the common price. Four of these slabs are considered as a +load for an ass, and six for a bullock. The value of European merchandize +in Manding varies very much, according to the supply from the Coast, or +the dread of war in the country; but the return for such articles is +commonly made in slaves. The price of a prime slave, when I was at +Kamalia, was from _nine_ to _twelve_ minkallies, and European commodities +had then nearly the following value:-- + + 18 gun flints, ) + 48 leaves of tobacco, ) one minkalli. + 20 charges of gunpowder, ) + A cutlass, ) + A musket from three to four minkallies. + +The produce of the country, and the different necessaries of life when +exchanged for gold, sold as follows:-- + +Common provisions for one day, the weight of one _teelee-kissi_, (a black +bean, six of which make the weight of one minkalli;) a chicken, one +teelee-kissi; a sheep, three teelee-kissi; a bullock, one minkalli; a +horse, from ten to seventeen minkallies. + +The Negroes weigh the gold in small balances, which they always carry +about them. They make no difference, in point of value, between gold dust +and wrought gold. In bartering one article for another, the person who +receives the gold always weighs it with his own teelee-kissi. These beans +are sometimes fraudulently soaked in Shea-butter, to make them heavy; and +I once saw a pebble ground exactly into the form of one of them; but such +practices are not very common. + +Having now related the substance of what occurs to my recollection +concerning the African mode of obtaining gold from the earth, and its +value in barter, I proceed to the next article, of which I proposed to +treat, namely, _ivory_. + +Nothing creates a greater surprise among the Negroes on the sea coast, +than the eagerness displayed by the European traders to procure +elephants' teeth; it being exceedingly difficult to make them comprehend +to what use it is applied. Although they are shown knives with ivory +hafts, combs, and toys of the same material, and are convinced that the +ivory thus manufactured was originally part of a tooth, they are not +satisfied. They suspect that this commodity is more frequently converted +in Europe to purposes of far greater importance, the true nature of which +is studiously concealed from them, lest the price of ivory should be +enhanced. They cannot, they say, easily persuade themselves, that ships +would be built, and voyages undertaken, to procure an article, which had +no other value than that of furnishing handles to knives, &c., when +pieces of wood would answer the purpose equally well. + +Elephants are very numerous in the interior of Africa, but they appear to +be a distinct species from those found in Asia. Blumenbach, in his +figures of objects of natural history, has given good drawings of a +grinder of each; and the variation is evident. M. Cuvier also has given +in the _Magazin Encyclopedique_ a clear account of the difference between +them. As I never examined the Asiatic elephant, I have chosen rather to +refer to those writers, than advance this as an opinion of my own. It has +been said that the African elephant is of a less docile nature than the +Asiatic, and incapable of being tamed. The Negroes certainly do not at +present tame them; but when we consider that the Carthaginians had always +tame elephants in their armies, and actually transported some of them to +Italy in the course of the Punic wars, it seems more likely that they +should have possessed the art of taming their own elephants, than have +submitted to the expense of bringing such vast animals from Asia. Perhaps +the barbarous practice of hunting the African elephants for the sake of +their teeth, has rendered them more untractable and savage, than they +were found to be in former times. + +The greater part of the ivory which is sold on the Gambia and Senegal +rivers is brought from the interior country. The lands towards the Coast +are too swampy, and too much intersected with creeks and rivers, for so +bulky an animal as the elephant to travel through, without being +discovered; and when once the natives discern the marks of his feet in +the earth, the whole village is up in arms. The thoughts of feasting on +his flesh, making sandals of his hide, and selling the teeth to the +Europeans, inspire every one with courage; and the animal seldom escapes +from his pursuers; but in the plains of Bambarra and Kaarta, and the +extensive wilds of Jallonkadoo, the elephants are very numerous; and, +from the great scarcity of gunpowder in those districts, they are less +annoyed by the natives. + +Scattered teeth are frequently picked up in the woods, and travellers are +very diligent in looking for them. It is a common practice with the +elephant to thrust his teeth under the roots of such shrubs and bushes as +grow in the more dry and elevated parts of the country where the soil is +shallow. These bushes he easily overturns, and feeds on the roots, which +are in general more tender and juicy than the hard woody branches or the +foliage; but when the teeth are partly decayed by age, and the roots more +firmly fixed, the great exertions of the animal, in this practice, +frequently causes them to break short. At Kamalia I saw two teeth, one a +very large one, which were found in the woods, and which were evidently +broke off in this manner. Indeed, it is difficult otherwise to account +for such a large proportion of broken ivory, as is daily offered for +sale, at the different factories; for when the elephant is killed in +hunting, unless he dashes himself over a precipice, the teeth are always +extracted entire. + +There are certain seasons of the year when the elephants collect into +large herds, and traverse the country in quest of food or water; and as +all that part of the country to the north of the Niger is destitute of +rivers, whenever the pools in the woods are dried up, the elephants +approach towards the banks of that river. Here they continue until the +commencement of the rainy season, in the months of June or July; and +during this time they are much hunted by such of the Bambarrans as have +gunpowder to spare. The elephant hunters seldom go out singly; a party of +four or five join together; and having each furnished himself with powder +and ball, and a quantity of corn-meal in a leather bag, sufficient for +five or six day's provisions, they enter the most unfrequented parts of +the wood, and examine with great care every thing that can lead to the +discovery of the elephants. In this pursuit, notwithstanding the bulk of +the animal, very great nicety of observation is required. The broken +branches, the scattered dung of the animal, and the marks of his feet, +are carefully inspected; and many of the hunters have, by long experience +and attentive observation, become so expert in their search, that as soon +as they observe the footmarks of an elephant, will they tell almost to a +certainty at what time it passed, and at what distance it will be found. + +When they discover a herd of elephants, they follow them at a distance, +until they perceive some one stray from the rest, and come into such a +situation as to be fired at with advantage. The hunters then approach +with great caution, creeping amongst the long grass, until they have got +near enough to be sure of their aim. They then discharge all their pieces +at once, and throw themselves on their faces among the grass. The wounded +elephant immediately applies his trunk to the different wounds, but being +unable to extract the balls, and seeing nobody near him, becomes quite +furious, and runs about among the bushes, until by fatigue and loss of +blood he has exhausted himself, and affords the hunters an opportunity of +firing a second time at him, by which he is generally brought to the +ground. + +The skin is now taken off, and extended on the ground with pegs, to dry; +and such parts of the flesh as are most esteemed are cut up into thin +slices, and dried in the sun, to serve for provisions on some future +occasion. The teeth are struck out with a light hatchet, which the +hunters always carry along with them; not only for that purpose, but also +to enable them to cut down such trees as contain honey; for though they +carry with them only five or six days' provisions, they will remain in +the woods for months if they are successful, and support themselves upon +the flesh of such elephants as they kill, and wild honey. + +The ivory thus collected is seldom brought down to the Coast by the +hunters themselves. They dispose of it to the itinerant merchants, who +come annually from the Coast with arms and ammunition, to purchase this +valuable commodity. Some of these merchants will collect ivory, in the +course of one season, sufficient to load four or five asses. A great +quantity of ivory is likewise brought from the interior by the slave +coffles. There are, however, some Slatees, of the Mahomedan persuasion, +who, from motives of religion, will not deal in ivory, nor eat of the +flesh of the elephant, unless it has been killed with a spear. + +The quantity of ivory collected in this part of Africa is not so great, +nor are the teeth in general so large, as in the countries nearer the +Line: few of them weigh more than eighty, or one hundred pounds; and upon +an average, a bar of European merchandize may be reckoned as the price of +a pound of ivory. + +I have now, I trust, in this and the preceding chapters, explained, with +sufficient minuteness, the nature and extent of the commercial connection +which at present prevails, and has long subsisted, between the Negro +natives of those parts of Africa which I visited, and the nations of +Europe; and it appears that slaves, gold, and ivory, together with the +few articles enumerated in the beginning of my work, viz. bees-wax and +honey, hides, gums, and dye woods, constitute the whole catalogue of +exportable commodities. Other productions, however, have been +incidentally noticed as the growth of Africa; such as grain of different +kinds, tobacco, indigo, cotton-wool, and perhaps a few others; but all of +these (which can only be obtained by cultivation and labour) the natives +raise sufficient only for their own immediate expenditure; nor, under the +present system of their laws, manners, trade, and government, can any +thing farther be expected from them. It cannot, however, admit of a +doubt, that all the rich and valuable productions, both of the East and +West Indies, might easily be naturalized, and brought to the utmost +perfection, in the tropical parts of this immense continent. Nothing is +wanting to this end but example, to enlighten the minds of the natives; +and instruction, to enable them to direct their industry to proper +objects. It was not possible for me to behold the wonderful fertility of +the soil, the vast herds of cattle, proper both for labour and food, and +a variety of other circumstances favourable to colonization and +agriculture; and reflect, withal, on the means which presented themselves +of a vast inland navigation, without lamenting that a country, so +abundantly gifted and favoured by nature, should remain in its present +savage and neglected state. Much more did I lament, that a people of +manners and disposition so gentle and benevolent, should either be left, +as they now are, immersed in the gross and uncomfortable blindness of +pagan superstition, or permitted to become converts to a system of +bigotry and fanaticism, which, without enlightening the mind, often +debases the heart. On this subject many observations might be made; but +the reader will probably think that I have already digressed too largely; +and I now, therefore, return to my situation at Kamalia. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Transactions at Kamalia resumed.--Arabic MSS. in use among the Mahomedan +Negroes.--Reflections concerning the conversion and education of the +Negro children.--Return of the Author's benefactor, Karfa.--Further +account of the purchase and treatment of slaves.--Fast of Rhamadan, how +observed by the Negroes.--Author's anxiety for the day of departure.--The +Caravan sets out.--Account of it on its departure, and proceedings on the +road, until its arrival at Kinytakooro. + + +The schoolmaster, to whose care I was entrusted during the absence of +Karfa, was a man of a mild disposition and gentle manners; his name was +Fankooma; and although he himself adhered strictly to the religion of +Mahomet, he was by no means intolerant in his principles towards others +who differed from him. He spent much of his time in reading; and teaching +appeared to be his pleasure, as well as employment. His school consisted +of seventeen boys, most of whom were sons of Kafirs; and two girls, one +of whom was Karfa's own daughter. The girls received their instructions +in the daytime, but the boys always had their lessons by the light of a +large fire before daybreak, and again late in the evening; for being +considered, during their scholarship, as the domestic slaves of the +master, they were employed in planting corn, bringing fire-wood, and in +other servile offices through the day. + +Exclusive of the Koran, and a book or two of commentaries thereon, the +schoolmaster possessed a variety of manuscripts, which had partly been +purchased from the trading Moors, and partly borrowed from Bushreens in +the neighbourhood, and copied with great care. Other MSS. had been +produced to me at different places in the course of my journey; and on +recounting those I had before seen, and those which were now shown to me, +and interrogating the schoolmaster on the subject, I discovered that the +Negroes are in possession (among others) of an Arabic version of the +Pentateuch of Moses; which they call _Taureta la Moosa_. This is so +highly esteemed, that it is often sold for the value of one prime slave. +They have likewise a version of the Psalms of David, (_Zabora Dawidi_;) +and, lastly the book of Isaiah, which they call _Lingeeli la Isa_, and it +is in very high esteem. I suspect, indeed, that in all these copies, +there are interpolations of some of the peculiar tenets of Mahomet, for I +could distinguish in many passages the name of the Prophet. It is +possible, however, that this circumstance might otherwise have been +accounted for, if my knowledge of the Arabic had been more extensive. By +means of those books, many of the converted Negroes have acquired an +acquaintance with some of the remarkable events recorded in the Old +Testament. The account of our first parents; the death of Abel; the +Deluge; the lives of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; the story of Joseph and +his brethren; the history of Moses David, Solomon, &c. All these have +been related to me in the Mandingo language, with tolerable exactness, by +different people; and my surprise was not greater on hearing these +accounts from the lips of the Negroes, than theirs, on finding that I was +already acquainted with them; for although the Negroes in general have a +very great idea of the wealth and power of the Europeans, I am afraid +that the Mahomedan converts among them think but very lightly of our +superior attainments in religious knowledge. The white traders in the +maritime districts take no pains to counteract this unhappy prejudice; +always performing their own devotions in secret, and seldom condescending +to converse with the Negroes in a friendly and instructive manner. To me, +therefore, it was not so much the subject of wonder as matter of regret, +to observe, that while the superstition of Mahomet has in this manner +scattered a few faint beams of learning among these poor people, the +precious light of Christianity is altogether excluded. I could not but +lament, that although the Coast of Africa has now been known and +frequented by the Europeans for more than two hundred years, yet the +Negroes still remain entire strangers to the doctrines of our holy +religion. We are anxious to draw from obscurity the opinions and records +of antiquity, the beauties of Arabian and Asiatic literature, &c.; but +while our libraries are thus stored with the learning of various +countries, we distribute with a parsimonious hand, the blessings of +religious truth, to the benighted nations of the earth. The natives of +Asia derive but little advantage in this respect from an intercourse with +us, and even the poor Africans, whom we affect to consider as barbarians, +look upon us, I fear, as little better than a race of formidable but +ignorant heathens. When I produced Richardson's Arabic Grammar to some +Slatees on the Gambia, they were astonished to think that any European +should understand and write the sacred language of their religion. At +first they suspected that it might have been written by some of the +slaves carried from the Coast; but on a closer examination, they were +satisfied that no Bushreen could write such beautiful Arabic; and one of +them offered to give me an ass, and sixteen bars of goods, if I would +part with the book. Perhaps a short and easy introduction to +Christianity, such as is found in some of the catechisms for children, +elegantly printed in Arabic, and distributed on different parts of the +Coast, might have a wonderful effect. The expense would be but trifling; +curiosity would induce many to read it; and the evident superiority which +it would possess over their present manuscripts, both in point of +elegance and cheapness, might at last obtain it a place among the school +books of Africa. + +The reflections which I have thus ventured to submit to my readers on +this important subject, naturally suggested themselves to my mind on +perceiving the encouragement which was thus given to learning (such as it +is) in many parts of Africa. I have observed, that the pupils at Kamalia +were most of them the children of Pagans; their parents, therefore, could +have had no predilection for the doctrines of Mahomet. Their aim was +their children's improvement, and if a more enlightened system had +presented itself, it would probably have been preferred. The children, +too, wanted not a spirit of emulation, which it is the aim of the tutor +to encourage. When any one of them has read through the Koran, and +performed a certain number of public prayers, a feast is prepared by the +schoolmaster, and the scholar undergoes an examination, or (in European +terms) _takes out his degree_. I attended at three different +inaugurations of this sort, and heard with pleasure the distinct and +intelligent answers which the scholars frequently gave to the Bushreens, +who assembled on those occasions, and acted as examiners. When the +Bushreens had satisfied themselves respecting the learning and abilities +of the scholar, the last page of the Koran was put into his hand, and he +was desired to read it aloud; after the boy had finished this lesson, he +pressed the paper against his forehead, and pronounced the word _Amen_; +upon which all the Bushreens rose, and shaking him cordially by the hand, +bestowed upon him the title of Bushreen. + +When a scholar has undergone this examination, his parents are informed +that he has completed his education and that it is incumbent on them to +redeem their son, by giving to the schoolmaster a slave, or the price of +a slave, in exchange; which is always done, if the parents can afford to +do it; if not, the boy remains the domestic slave of the schoolmaster, +until he can, by his own industry, collect goods sufficient to ransom +himself. + +About a week after the departure of Karfa, three Moors arrived at Kamalia +with a considerable quantity of salt, and other merchandize, which they +had obtained on credit, from a merchant of Fezzan, who had lately arrived +at Kancaba. Their engagement was to pay him his price when the goods were +sold, which they expected would be in the course of a month. Being rigid +Bushreens, they were accommodated with two of Karfa's huts, and sold +their goods to very great advantage. + +On the 24th of January, Karfa returned to Kamalia with a number of people +and thirteen prime slaves, which he had purchased. He likewise brought +with him a young girl whom he had married at Kancaba, as his fourth wife, +and had given her parents three prime slaves for her. She was kindly +received at the door of the baloon by Karfa's other wives, who conducted +their new acquaintance and co-partner into one of the best huts, which +they had caused to be sweat and white-washed, on purpose to receive +her.[24] + + [24] The Negroes white wash their huts with a mixture of bone ashes + and water, to which is commonly added a little gum. + +My clothes were by this time become so very ragged, that I was almost +ashamed to appear out of doors; but Karfa, on the day after his arrival, +generously presented me with such a garment and trowsers as are commonly +worn in the country. + +The slaves which Karfa had brought with him were all of them prisoners of +war; they had been taken by the Bambarran army in the kingdoms of Wassela +and Kaarta, and carried to Sego, where some of them had remained three +years in irons. From Sego they were sent, in company with a number of +other captives, up the Niger in two large canoes, and offered for sale at +Yamina, Bammakoo, and Kancaba; at which places the greater number of the +captives were bartered for gold-dust, and the remainder sent forward to +Kankakee. + +Eleven of them confessed to me that they had been slaves from their +infancy; but the other two refused to give any account of their former +condition. They were all very inquisitive; but they viewed me at first +with looks of horror, and repeatedly asked if my countrymen were +cannibals. They were very desirous to know what became of the slaves +after they had crossed the salt water. I told them, that they were +employed in cultivating the land; but they would not believe me; and one +of them putting his hand upon the ground, said with great simplicity, +"Have you really got such ground as this to set your feet upon?" A deeply +rooted idea that the Whites purchase Negroes for the purpose of devouring +them, or of selling them to others, that they may be devoured hereafter, +naturally makes the slaves contemplate a journey towards the Coast with +great terror; insomuch that the Slatees are forced to keep them +constantly in irons, and watch them very closely to prevent their escape. +They are commonly secured, by putting the right leg of one, and the left +of another, into the same pair of fetters. By supporting the fetters with +a string, they can walk, though very slowly. Every four slaves are +likewise fastened together by the necks, with a strong rope of twisted +thongs; and in the night an additional pair of fetters is put on their +hands, and sometimes a light iron chain passed round their necks. + +Such of them as evince marks of discontent are secured in a different +manner. A thick billet of wood is cut about three feet long, and a smooth +notch being made upon one side of it, the ankle of the slave is bolted to +the smooth part by means of a strong iron staple, one prong of which +passes on each side of the ankle. All these fetters and bolts are made +from native iron; in the present case they were put on by the blacksmith +as soon as the slaves arrived from Kancaba, and were not taken off until +the morning on which the coffle departed for Gambia. + +In other respects, the treatment of the slaves during their stay at +Kamalia was far from being harsh or cruel. They were led out in their +fetters every morning to the shade of the tamarind tree, where they were +encouraged to play at games of hazard, and sing diverting songs, to keep +up their spirits; for though some of them sustained the hardships of +their situation with amazing fortitude, the greater part were very much +dejected, and would sit all day in a sort of sullen melancholy, with +their eyes fixed upon the ground. In the evening, their irons were +examined, and their hand fetters put on; after which they were conducted +into two large huts, where they were guarded during the night by Karfa's +domestic slaves. But notwithstanding all this, about a week after their +arrival, one of the slaves had the address to procure a small knife with +which he opened the rings of his fetters, cut the rope, and made his +escape; more of them would probably have got off, had they assisted each +other; but the slave no sooner found himself at liberty, than he refused +to stop and assist in breaking the chain which was fastened round the +necks of his companions. + +As all the Slatees and slaves belonging to the coffle were now assembled, +either at Kamalia, or some of the neighbouring villages, it might have +been expected that we should have set out immediately for Gambia; but +though the day of our departure was frequently fixed, it was always found +expedient to change it. Some of the people had not prepared their dry +provisions; others had gone to visit their relations, or collect some +trifling debts; and, last of all, it was necessary to consult whether the +day would be a lucky one. On account of one of these, or other such +causes, our departure was put off, day after day, until the month of +February was far advanced; after which all the Slatees agreed to remain +in their present quarters, until the _fast moon was over_. And here I may +remark, that loss of time is an object of no great importance in the eyes +of a Negro. If he has any thing of consequence to perform, it is a matter +of indifference to him whether he does it to-day or to-morrow, or a month +or two hence; so long as he can spend the present moment with any degree +of comfort, he gives himself very little concern about the future. + +The fast of Rhamadan was observed with great strictness by all the +Bushreens; but instead of compelling me to follow their example, as the +Moors did on a similar occasion, Karfa frankly told me that I was at +liberty to pursue my own inclination. In order, however, to manifest a +respect for their religious opinions, I voluntarily fasted three days, +which was thought sufficient to screen me from the reproachful epithet of +Kafir. During the fast, all the Slatees belonging to the coffle assembled +every morning in Karfa's house, where the schoolmaster read to them some +religious lesson, from a large folio volume, the author of which was an +Arab, of the name of _Sheiffa_. In the evening, such of the women as had +embraced Mahomedanism assembled, and said their prayers publicly at the +Misura. They were all dressed in white, and went through the different +prostrations, prescribed by their religion, with becoming solemnity. +Indeed, during the whole fast of Rhamadan, the Negroes behaved themselves +with the greatest meekness and humility; forming a striking contrast to +the savage intolerance and brutal bigotry which at this period +characterise the Moors. + +When the fast month was almost at an end, the Bushreens assembled at the +Misura, to watch for the appearance of the new moon; but the evening +being rather cloudy, they were for some time disappointed, and a number +of them had gone home with a resolution to fast another day, when on a +sudden this delightful object showed her sharp horns from behind a cloud, +and was welcomed with the clapping of hands, beating of drums, firing +muskets, and other marks of rejoicing. As this moon is reckoned extremely +lucky, Karfa gave orders that all the people belonging to the coffle +should immediately pack up their dry provisions, and hold themselves in +readiness: and on the 16th of April, the Slatees held a consultation, and +fixed on the 19th of the same month, as the day on which the coffle +should depart from Kamalia. This resolution freed me from much +uneasiness; for our departure had already been so long deferred, that I +was apprehensive it might still be put off until the commencement of the +rainy reason; and although Karfa behaved towards me with the greatest +kindness, I found my situation very unpleasant. The Slatees were +unfriendly to me; and the trading Moors, who were at this time at +Kamalia, continued to plot mischief against me, from the first day of +their arrival. Under these circumstances, I reflected, that my life in a +great measure depended on the good opinion of an individual, who was +daily hearing malicious stories concerning the Europeans; and I could +hardly expect that he would always judge with impartiality between me and +his countrymen. Time had, indeed, reconciled me, in some degree, to their +mode of life; and a smoky hut, or a scanty supper, gave me no great +uneasiness; but I became at last wearied out with a constant state of +alarm and anxiety, and felt a painful longing for the manifold blessings +of civilized society. + +On the morning of the 17th, a circumstance occurred, which wrought a +considerable change in my favour. The three trading Moors who had lodged +under Karfa's protection, ever since their arrival at Kamalia, and had +gained the esteem of all the Bushreens, by an appearance of great +sanctity, suddenly packed up their effects, and, without once thanking +Karfa for his kindness towards them, marched over the hills to Bala. +Every one was astonished at this unexpected removal; but the affair was +cleared up in the evening, by the arrival of the Fezzan merchant from +Kancaba, (mentioned in p. 269;) who assured Karfa, that these Moors had +borrowed all their salt and goods from him, and had sent for him to come +to Kamalia, and receive payment. When he was told that they had fled to +the westward, he wiped a tear from each eye with the sleeve of his cloak, +and exclaimed, "These _shirukas_ (robbers) are Mahomedans, but they are +not men: they have robbed me of two hundred minkallies." From this +merchant I received information of the capture of our Mediterranean +convoy by the French, in October 1795. + +April 19th. The long-wished-for day of our departure was at length +arrived; and the Slatees having taken the irons from their slaves, +assembled with them at the door of Karfa's house, where the bundles were +all tied up, and every one had his load assigned him. The coffle, on its +departure from Kamalia, consisted of twenty-seven slaves for sale, the +property of Karfa and four other Slatees: but we were afterwards joined +by five at Maraboo, and three at Bala: making in all thirty-five slaves. +The free men were fourteen in number, but most of them had one or two +wives and some domestic slaves; and the schoolmaster, who was now upon +his return for Woradoo, the place of his nativity, took with him eight of +his scholars, so that the number of free people and domestic slaves +amounted to thirty-eight, and the whole amount of the coffle was +seventy-three. Among the freemen were six Jilli keas, (singing men) whose +musical talents were frequently exerted either to divert our fatigue, or +obtain us a welcome from strangers. When we departed from Kamalia, we +were followed for about half a mile by most of the inhabitants of the +town, some of them crying, and others shaking hands with their relations, +who were now about to leave them; and when we had gained a piece of +rising ground, from which we had a view of Kamalia, all the people +belonging to the coffle were ordered to sit down in one place, with their +faces towards the west, and the townspeople were desired to sit down in +another place, with their faces towards Kamalia. In this situation, the +schoolmaster, with two of the principal Slatees, having taken their +places between the two parties, pronounced a long and solemn prayer; +after which, they walked three times round the coffle, making an +impression on the ground with the ends of their spears, and muttering +something by way of charm. When this ceremony was ended, all the people +belonging to the coffle sprang up, and without taking a formal farewell +of their friends, set forward. As many of the slaves had remained for +years in irons, the sudden exertion of walking quick, with heavy loads +upon their heads, occasioned spasmodic contractions of their legs; and we +had not proceeded above a mile, before it was found necessary to take two +of them from the rope, and allow them to walk more slowly until we +reached Maraboo, a walled village, where some people were waiting to join +the coffle. Here we stopt about two hours, to allow the strangers time to +pack up their provisions, and then continued our route to Bala, which +town we reached about four in the afternoon. The inhabitants of Bala, at +this season of the year, subsist chiefly on fish, which they take in +great plenty from the streams in the neighbourhood. We remained here +until the afternoon of the next day, the 20th, when we proceeded to +Worumbang, the frontier village of Manding towards Jallonkadoo. As we +proposed shortly to enter the Jallonka Wilderness, the people of this +village furnished us with great plenty of provisions; and on the morning +of the 21st, we entered the woods to the westward of Worumbang. After +having travelled some little way, a consultation was held, whether we +should continue our route through the Wilderness, or save one day's +provisions by going to Kinytakooro, a town in Jallonkadoo. After debating +the matter for some time, it was agreed that we should take the road for +Kinytakooro; but as that town was a long day's journey distant, it was +necessary to take some refreshment. Accordingly, every person opened his +provision bag, and brought a handful or two of meal, to the place where +Karfa and the Slatees were sitting. When every one had brought his quota, +and the whole was properly arranged in small gourd shells, the +schoolmaster offered up a short prayer, the substance of which was, that +God and the holy Prophet might preserve us from robbers and all bad +people, that our provisions might never fail us, nor our limbs become +fatigued. This ceremony being ended, every one partook of the meal, and +drank a little water, after which we set forward, (rather running than +walking) until we came to the river Kokoro, a branch of the Senegal, +where we halted about ten minutes. The banks' of this river are very +high; and from the grass and brushwood which had been left by the stream, +it was evident that at this place the water had risen more than twenty +feet perpendicular, during the rainy season. At this time it was only a +small stream, such as would turn a mill, swarming with fish; and on +account of the number of crocodiles, and the danger of being carried past +the ford by the force of the stream in the rainy season, it is called +_Kokoro_, (dangerous.) From this place we continued to travel with the +greatest expedition, and in the afternoon crossed two small branches of +the Kokoro. About sunset we came in sight of Kinytakooro, a considerable +town, nearly square, situate in the middle of a large and well cultivated +plain: before we entered the town we halted, until the people who had +fallen behind came up. During this day's travel, two slaves, a woman and +a girl, belonging to a Slatee of Bala, were so much fatigued, that they +could not keep up with the coffle; they were severely whipped, and +dragged along until about three o'clock in the afternoon, when they were +both affected with vomiting, by which it was discovered that they had +eaten clay. This practice is by no means uncommon amongst the Negroes; +but whether it arises from a vitiated appetite, or from a settled +intention to destroy themselves, I cannot affirm. They were permitted to +lie down in the woods, and three people remained with them until they had +rested themselves; but they did not arrive at the town until past +midnight; and were then so much exhausted, that the Slatee gave up all +thoughts of taking them across the woods in their present condition, and +determined to return with them to Bala, and wait for another opportunity. + +As this was the first town beyond the limits of Manding, greater +etiquette than usual was observed. Every person was ordered to keep in +his proper station, and we marched towards the town in a sort of +procession nearly as follows. In front five or six singing men, all of +them belonging to the coffle; these were followed by the other free +people; then came the slaves fastened in the usual way by a rope round +their necks, four of them to a rope, and a man with a spear between each +four; after them came the domestic slaves, and in the rear the women of +free condition, wives of the Slatees, &c. In this manner we proceeded, +until we came within a hundred yards of the gate, when the singing men +began a loud song, well calculated to flatter the vanity of the +inhabitants, by extolling their known hospitality to strangers, and their +particular friendship for the Mandingoes. When we entered the town we +proceeded to the Bentang, where the people gathered round us to hear our +_dentegi_, (history;) this was related publicly by two of the singing +men; they enumerated every little circumstance which had happened to the +coffle; beginning with the events of the present day, and relating every +thing, in a backward series, until they reached Kamalia. When this +history was ended, the master of the town gave them a small present, and +all the people of the coffle, both free and enslaved, were invited by +some person or other, and accommodated with lodging and provisions for +the night. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +_The coffle crosses the Jallonka Wilderness.--Miserable fate of one of +the female slaves.--Arrives at Sooseeta.--Proceeds to Manna.--Some +account of the Jallonkas.--Crosses the main stream of the +Senegal.--Bridge of a singular construction.--Arrives at +Malacotta.--Remarkable conduct of the King of the Jalofs._ + + +We continued at Kinytakooro until noon of the 22d of April, when we +removed to a village about seven miles to the westward, the inhabitants +of which being apprehensive of hostilities from the Foulahs of Fooladoo, +were at this time employed in constructing small temporary huts among the +rocks, on the side of a high hill close to the village. The situation was +almost impregnable, being everywhere surrounded with high precipices, +except on the eastern side, where the natives had left a pathway +sufficient to allow one person at a time to ascend. Upon the brow of the +hill, immediately over this path, I observed several heaps of large loose +stones, which the people told me were intended to be thrown down upon the +Foulahs, if they should attempt the hill. + +At daybreak on the 23d, we departed from this village, and entered the +Jallonka Wilderness. We passed, in the course of the morning, the ruins +of two small towns, which had lately been burnt by the Foulahs. The fire +must have been very intense; for I observed that the walls of many of the +huts were slightly vitrified, and appeared at a distance as if covered +with a red varnish. About ten o'clock we came to the river Wonda, which +is somewhat larger than the river Kokoro; but the stream was at this time +rather muddy, which Karfa assured me was occasioned by amazing shoals of +fish. They were indeed seen in all directions, and in such abundance, +that I fancied the water itself tasted and smelt fishy. As soon as we had +crossed the river, Karfa gave orders that all the people of the coffle +should in future keep close together, and travel in their proper station; +the guides and young men were accordingly placed in the van, the women +and slaves in the centre, and the freemen in the rear. In this order, we +travelled with uncommon expedition through a woody, but beautiful +country, interspersed with a pleasing variety of hill and dale, and +abounding with partridges, guinea-fowls, and deer, until sunset, when we +arrived at a most romantic stream called Co-meissang. My arms and neck +having been exposed during the whole day, and irritated by the rubbing of +my dress in walking, were now very much inflamed and covered with +blisters; and I was happy to embrace the opportunity, while the coffle +rested on the bank of this river, to bathe myself in the stream. This +practice, together with the cool of the evening, much diminished the +inflammation. About three miles to the westward of the Co-meissang we +halted in a thick wood, and kindled our fires for the night. We were all, +by this time, very much fatigued, having, as I judged, travelled this day +thirty miles; but no person was heard to complain. Whilst supper was +preparing, Karfa made one of the slaves break some branches from the +trees for my bed. When we had finished our supper of kouskous, moistened +with some boiling water, and put the slaves in irons, we all lay down to +sleep; but we were frequently disturbed in the night by the howling of +wild beasts; and we found the small brown ants very troublesome. + +April 24th. Before daybreak the Bushreens said their morning prayers, and +most of the free people drank a little _moening_, (a sort of gruel,) part +of which was likewise given to such of the slaves as appeared least able +to sustain the fatigues of the day. One of Karfa's female slaves was very +sulky, and when some gruel was to offered her, she refused to drink it. +As soon as day dawned we set out, and travelled the whole morning over a +wild and rocky country, by which my feet were very much bruised; and I +was sadly apprehensive that I should not be able to keep up with the +coffle during the day; but I was in a great measure relieved from this +anxiety, when I observed that others were more exhausted than myself. In +particular, the woman slave, who had refused victuals in the morning, +began now to lag behind, and complain dreadfully of pains in her legs. +Her load was taken from her, and given to another slave, and she was +ordered to keep in the front of the coffle. About eleven o'clock, as we +were resting by a small rivulet, some of the people discovered a hive of +bees in a hollow tree, and they were proceeding to obtain the honey, when +the largest swarm I ever beheld flew out, and attacking the people of the +coffle, made us fly in all directions. I took the alarm first, and I +believe was the only person who escaped with impunity. When our enemies +thought fit to desist from pursuing us, and every person was employed in +picking out the stings he had received, it was discovered that the poor +woman above mentioned, whose name was Nealee, was not come up; and as +many of the slaves in their retreat had left their bundles behind them, +it became necessary for some persons to return, and bring them. In order +to do this with safety, fire was set to the grass, a considerable way to +the eastward of the hive, and the wind driving the fire furiously along, +the party pushed through the smoke, and recovered the bundles. They +likewise brought with them poor Nealee, whom they found lying in the +rivulet. She was very much exhausted, and had crept to the stream in +hopes to defend herself from the bees by throwing water over her body, +but this proved ineffectual; for she was stung in the most dreadful +manner. + +When the Slatees had picked out the stings as far as they could, she was +washed with water, and then rubbed with bruised leaves; but the wretched +woman obstinately refused to proceed any farther; declaring that she +would rather die than walk another step. As entreaties and threats were +used in vain, the whip was at length applied; and after bearing patiently +a few strokes, she started up and walked with tolerable expedition for +four or five hours longer, when she made an attempt to run away from the +coffle, but was so very weak, that she fell down in the grass. Though she +was unable to rise, the whip was a second time applied, but without +effect; upon which Karfa desired two of the Slatees to place her upon the +ass which carried our dry provisions; but she could not sit erect; and +the ass being very refractory, it was found impossible to carry her +forward in that manner. The Slatees, however, were unwilling to abandon +her, the day's journey being nearly ended; they therefore made a sort of +litter of bamboo canes, upon which she was placed, and tied on it with +slips of bark: this litter was carried upon the heads of two slaves, one +walking before the other, and they were followed by two others, who +relieved them occasionally. In this manner the woman was carried forward +until it was dark, when we reached a stream of water, at the foot of a +high hill called Gankaran-Kooro; and here we stopt for the night and set +about preparing our supper. As we had ate only one handful of meal since +the preceding night, and travelled all day in a hot sun, many of the +slaves, who had loads upon their heads, were very much fatigued: and some +of them _snapt their fingers_, which among the Negroes is a sure sign of +desperation. The Slatees immediately put them all in irons; and such of +them as had evinced signs of great despondency were kept apart from the +rest, and had their hands tied. In the morning they were found greatly +recovered. + +April 25th. At daybreak poor Nealee was awakened, but her limbs were now +so stiff and painful, that she could neither walk nor stand; she was +therefore lifted, like a corpse, upon the back of the ass, and the +Slatees endeavoured to secure her in that situation, by fastening her +hands together under the ass's neck and her feet under the belly, with +long slips of bark; but the ass was so very unruly, that no sort of +treatment could induce him to proceed with his load; and as Nealee made +no exertion to prevent herself from falling, she was quickly thrown off, +and had one of her legs much bruised. Every attempt to carry her forward +being thus found ineffectual, the general cry of the coffle was, +_kang-tegi, kang-tegi_, "cut her throat, cut her throat;" an operation I +did not wish to see performed, and therefore marched onwards with the +foremost of the coffle. I had not walked above a mile, when one of +Karfa's domestic slaves came up to me, with poor Nealee's garment upon +the end of his bow, and exclaimed, _Nealee affeeleeta_, (Nealee is lost.) +I asked him whether the Slatees had given him the garment as a reward for +cutting her throat; he replied, that Karfa and the schoolmaster would not +consent to that measure, but had left her on the road, where undoubtedly +she soon perished, and was probably devoured by wild beasts. + +The sad fate of this wretched woman, notwithstanding the outcry before +mentioned, made a strong impression on the minds of the whole coffle, and +the schoolmaster fasted the whole of the ensuing day, in consequence of +it. We proceeded in deep silence, and soon afterward crossed the river +Furkoomah, which was about as large as the river Wonda. We now travelled +with great expedition, every one being apprehensive he might otherwise +meet with the fate of poor Nealee. It was, however, with great difficulty +that I could keep up, although I threw away my spear, and every thing +that could in the least obstruct me. About noon we saw a large herd of +elephants, but they suffered us to pass unmolested, and in the evening we +halted near a thicket of bamboo, but found no water; so that we were +forced to proceed four miles farther, to a small stream, where we stopt +for the night. We had marched this day, as I judged, about twenty-six +miles. + +April 26th. This morning two of the schoolmaster's pupils complained much +of pains in their legs, and one of the slaves walked lame, the soles of +his feet being very much blistered and inflamed; we proceeded, +notwithstanding, and about eleven o'clock began to ascend a rocky hill +called Boki-Kooro, and it was past two in the afternoon before we reached +the level ground on the other side. This was the most rocky road we had +yet encountered, and it hurt our feet much. In a short time we arrived at +a pretty large river called Boki, which we forded: it ran smooth and +clear, over a bed of whinstone. About a mile to the westward of the +river, we came to a road which leads to the north-east towards Gadou, and +seeing the marks of many horses' feet upon the soft sand, the Slatees +conjectured that a party of plunderers had lately rode that way, to fall +upon some town of Gadou; and lest they should discover, upon their +return, that we had passed, and attempt to pursue us by the marks of our +feet, the coffle was ordered to disperse, and travel in a loose manner +through the high grass and bushes. A little before it was dark, having +crossed the ridge of hills to the westward of the river Boki, we came to +a well called _culleng qui_, (white sand well,) and here we rested for +the night. + +April 27th. We departed from the well early in the morning, and walked on +with the greatest alacrity, in hopes of reaching a town before night. The +road, during the forenoon, led through extensive thickets of dry bamboos. +About two o'clock we came to a stream called Nunkolo, where we were each +of us regaled with a handful of meal, which, according to a superstitious +custom, was not to be eaten until it was first moistened with water from +this stream. About four o'clock we reached Sooseeta, a small Jallonka +village, situated in the district of Kullo, which comprehends all that +tract of country lying along the banks of the Black river, or main branch +of the Senegal. These were the first human habitations we had seen since +we left the village to the westward of Kinytakooro; having travelled in +the course of the last five days upwards of one hundred miles. Here, +after a great deal of entreaty, we were provided with huts to sleep in; +but the master of the village plainly told us that he could not give us +any provisions, as there had lately been a great scarcity in this part of +the country. He assured us, that before they had gathered in their +present crops, the whole inhabitants of Kullo had been for twenty-nine +days without tasting corn; during which time, they supported themselves +entirely upon the yellow powder which is found in the pods of the +_nitta_, so called by the natives, a species of mimosa; and upon the +seeds of the bamboo cane, which, when properly pounded and dressed, taste +very much like rice. As our dry provisions were not yet exhausted, a +considerable quantity of kouskous was dressed for supper, and many of the +villagers were invited to take part of the repast; but they made a very +bad return for this kindness; for in the night they seized upon one of +the schoolmaster's boys, who had fallen asleep under the Bentang tree, +and carried him away. The boy fortunately awoke before he was far from +the village, and setting up a loud scream, the man who carried him put +his hand upon his mouth, and ran with him into the woods; but afterwards +understanding that he belonged to the schoolmaster, whose place of +residence is only three days' journey distant, he thought, I suppose, +that he could not retain him as a slave without the schoolmaster's +knowledge; and therefore stripped off the boy's clothes, and permitted +him to return. + +April 28th. Early in the morning we departed from Sooseeta, and about ten +o'clock, came to an unwalled town called Manna, the inhabitants of which +were employed in collecting the fruit of the nitta trees, which are very +numerous in this neighbourhood. The pods are long and narrow, and contain +a few black seeds enveloped in the fine mealy powder before mentioned, +the meal itself is of a bright yellow colour, resembling the flour of +sulphur, and has a sweet mucilaginous taste; when eaten by itself it is +clammy, but when mixed with milk or water, it constitutes a very pleasant +and nourishing article of diet. + +The language of the people of Manna is the same that is spoken all over +that extensive and hilly country called Jallonkadoo. Some of the words +have great affinity to the Mandingo, but the natives themselves consider +it as a distinct language. Their numerals are these:-- + + One _Kidding_. + Two _Fidding_. + Three _Sarra_. + Four _Nani_. + Five _Soolo_. + Six _Seni_. + Seven _Soolo ma fidding_. + Eight _Soolo ma sarra_. + Nine _Soolo ma nani_. + Ten _Nuff_. + +The Jallonkas, like the Mandingoes, are governed by a number of petty +chiefs, who are in a great measure independent of each other: they have +no common sovereign; and the chiefs are seldom upon such terms of +friendship as to assist each other even in war time. The chief of Manna, +with a number of his people, accompanied us to the banks of the Bafing, +or Black river, (a principal branch of the Senegal,) which we crossed +upon a bridge of bamboos of a very singular construction. The river at +this place is smooth and deep, and has very little current. Two tall +trees, when tied together by the tops, are sufficiently long to reach +from one side to the other; the roots resting upon the rocks, and the +tops floating in the water. When a few trees have been placed in this +direction, they are covered with dry bamboos, so as to form a floating +bridge, with a sloping gangway at each end, where the trees rest upon the +rocks. This bridge is carried away every year by the swelling of the +river in the rainy season, and is constantly rebuilt by the inhabitants +of Manna, who, on that account, expect a small tribute from every +passenger. + +In the afternoon we passed several villages, at none of which could we +procure a lodging; and in the twilight we received information that two +hundred Jallonkas had assembled near a town called Melo, with a view to +plunder the coffle. This induced us to alter our course, and we travelled +with great secrecy until midnight, when we approached a town called Koba. +Before we entered the town, the names of all the people belonging to the +coffle were called over, and a freeman and three slaves were found to be +missing. Every person immediately concluded that the slaves had murdered +the freeman, and made their escape. It was therefore agreed that six +people should go back as far as the last village, and endeavour to find +his body, or collect some information concerning the slaves. In the +meantime the coffle was ordered to lie concealed in a cotton field near a +large nitta tree, and nobody to speak except in a whisper. It was towards +morning before the six men returned, having heard nothing of the man or +the slaves. As none of us had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four +hours, it was agreed that we should go into Koba, and endeavour to +procure some provisions. We accordingly entered the town before it was +quite day, and Karfa purchased from the chief man, for three strings of +beads, a considerable quantity of ground nuts, which we roasted and ate +for breakfast; we were afterwards provided with huts, and rested here for +the day. + +About eleven o'clock, to our great joy and surprise, the freeman and +slaves, who had parted from the coffle the preceding night, entered the +town. One of the slaves, it seems, had hurt his foot, and the night being +very dark, they soon lost sight of the coffle. The freeman, as soon as he +found himself alone with the slaves, was aware of his own danger, and +insisted on putting them in irons. The slaves were at first rather +unwilling to submit, but when he threatened to stab them one by one with +his spear, they made no further resistance; and he remained with them +among the bushes until morning, when he let them out of irons, and came +to the town in hopes of hearing which route the coffle had taken. The +information that we received concerning the Jallonkas, who intended to +rob the coffle, was this day confirmed, and we were forced to remain here +until the afternoon of the 30th; when Karfa hired a number of people to +protect us, and we proceeded to a village called Tinkingtang. Departing +from this village on the day following, we crossed a high ridge of +mountains to the west of the Black river, and travelled over a rough +stony country until sunset, when we arrived at Lingicotta, a small +village in the district of Woradoo. Here we shook out the last handful of +meal from our dry provision bags; this being the second day (since we +crossed the Black river) that we had travelled from morning until night, +without tasting one morsel of food. + +May 2d. We departed from Lingicotta; but the slaves being very much +fatigued, we halted for the night at a village about nine miles to the +westward, and procured some provisions through the interest of the +schoolmaster; who now sent forward a messenger to Malacotta, his native +town, to inform his friends of his arrival in the country, and to desire +them to provide the necessary quantity of victuals to entertain the +coffle for two or three days. + +May 3d. We set out for Malacotta, and about noon arrived at a village, +near a considerable stream of water which flows to the westward; here we +determined to stop for the return of the messenger which had been sent to +Malacotta the day before; and as the natives assured me there were no +crocodiles in this stream, I went and bathed myself. Very few people here +can swim; for they came in numbers to dissuade me from venturing into a +pool, where they said the water would come over my head. About two +o'clock the messenger returned from Malacotta; and the schoolmaster's +elder brother being impatient to see him, came along with the messenger +to meet him at this village. The interview between the two brothers, who +had not seen each other for nine years, was very natural and affecting. +They fell upon each other's neck, and it was some time before either of +them could speak. At length, when the schoolmaster had a little recovered +himself, he took his brother by the hand, and turning round, "This is the +man" (said he, pointing to Karfa) "who has been my father in Manding; I +would have pointed him out sooner to you, but my heart was too full." + +We reached Malacotta in the evening, where we were well received. This is +an unwalled town; the huts for the most part are made of split cane, +twisted into a sort of wicker-work, and plastered over with mud. Here we +remained three days, and were each day presented with a bullock from the +schoolmaster; we were likewise well entertained by the townspeople, who +appear to be very active and industrious. They make very good soap, by +boiling ground nuts in water, and then adding a ley of wood ashes. They +likewise manufacture excellent iron: which they carry to Bondou to barter +for salt. A party of the townspeople had lately returned from a trading +expedition of this kind, and brought information concerning a war between +Almami Abdulkader, King of Foota Torra, and Damel, King of the Jaloffs. +The events of this war soon became a favourite subject with the singing +men, and the common topic of conversation in all the kingdoms bordering +upon the Senegal and Gambia; and as the account is somewhat singular, I +shall here abridge it for the reader's information. The King of Foota +Torra, inflamed with a zeal for propagating his religion, had sent an +embassy to Damel, similar to that which he had sent to Kasson, as related +in page 67. The ambassador, on the present occasion, was accompanied by +two of the principal Bushreens, who carried each a large knife, fixed on +the top of a long pole. As soon as he had procured admission into the +presence of Damel, and announced the pleasure of his sovereign, he +ordered the Bushreens to present the emblems of his mission. The two +knives were accordingly laid before Damel, and the ambassador explained +himself as follows:--"With this knife (said he) Abdulkader will +condescend to shave the head of Damel, if Damel will embrace the +Mahomedan faith: and with this other knife, Abdulkader will cut the +throat of Damel, if Damel refuses to embrace it:--take your choice." +Damel coolly told the ambassador that he had no choice to make; he +neither chose to have his head shaved, nor his throat cut; and with this +answer the ambassador was civilly dismissed. Abdulkader took his measures +accordingly, and with a powerful army invaded Damel's country. The +inhabitants of the towns and villages filled up their wells, destroyed +their provisions, carried off their effects, and abandoned their +dwellings, as he approached. By this means he was led on from place to +place, until he had advanced three days' journey into the country of the +Jaloffs. He had, indeed, met with no opposition; but his army had +suffered so much from the scarcity of water, that several of his men had +died by the way. This induced him to direct his march towards a watering +place in the woods, where his men, having quenched their thirst, and +being overcome with fatigue, lay down carelessly to sleep among the +bushes. In this situation they were attacked by Damel before daybreak, +and completely routed. Many of them were trampled to death as they lay +asleep by the Jaloff horses; others were killed in attempting to make +their escape; and a still greater number were taken prisoners. Among the +latter was Abdulkader himself. This ambitious or rather frantic prince, +who but a month before had sent the threatening message to Damel, was now +himself led into his presence a miserable captive. The behaviour of Damel +on this occasion is never mentioned by the singing men but in terms of +the highest approbation; and it was indeed so extraordinary in an African +prince, that the reader may find it difficult to give credit to the +recital. When his royal prisoner was brought before him in irons, and +thrown upon the ground, the magnanimous Damel, instead of setting his +foot upon his neck, and stabbing him with his spear, according to custom +in such cases, addressed him as follows:--"Abdulkader, answer me this +question: If the chance of war had placed me in your situation, and you +in mine, how would you have treated me?"--"I would have thrust my spear +into your heart," returned Abdulkader with great firmness; "and I know +that a similar fate awaits me."--"Not so, (said Damel,) my spear is +indeed red with the blood of your subjects killed in battle, and I could +now give it a deeper stain by dipping it in your own; but this would not +build up my towns, nor bring to life the thousands who fell in the woods. +I will not therefore kill you in cold blood, but I will retain you as my +slave, until I perceive that your presence in your own kingdom will be no +longer dangerous to your neighbours; and then I will consider of the +proper way of disposing of you." Abdulkader was accordingly retained, and +worked as a slave for three months; at the end of which period, Damel +listened to the solicitations of the inhabitants of Foota Torra, and +restored to them their king. Strange as this story may appear, I have no +doubt of the truth of it: it was told me at Malacotta by the Negroes; it +was afterwards related to me by the Europeans on the Gambia; by some of +the French at Goree; and confirmed by nine slaves who were taken +prisoners along with Abdulkader, by the watering place in the woods, and +carried in the same ship with me to the West Indies. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +_The caravan proceeds to Konkadoo, and crosses the Falemé River.--Its +arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, and Tambacunda.--Incidents on the +road.--A matrimonial case.--The caravan proceeds through many towns and +villages, and arrives at length on the banks of the Gambia.--Passes +through Medina, the capital of Wolli, and finally stops at Jindey.--The +Author, accompanied by Karfa, proceeds to Pisania.--Various occurrences +previous to his departure from Africa.--Takes his passage in an American +ship.--Short account of his voyage to Great Britain by way of the West +Indies._ + + +On the 7th of May, we departed from Malacotta, and having crossed the _Ba +lee_, "Honey river," a branch of the Senegal, we arrived in the evening +at a walled town called Bintingala, where we rested two days. From +thence, in one day more, we proceeded to Dindikoo, a small town situated +at the bottom of a high ridge of hills, from which this district is named +_Konkadoo_, "the country of mountains." These hills are very productive +of gold. I was shown a small quantity of this metal, which had been +lately collected: the grains were about the usual size, but much flatter +than those of Manding, and were found in white quartz, which had been +broken to pieces by hammers. At this town I met with a Negro, whose hair +and skin were of a dull white colour. He was of that sort which are +called in the Spanish West Indies _Albinos_, or white Negroes. The skin +is cadaverous and unsightly, and the natives considered this complexion +(I believe truly) as the effect of disease. + +May 11th. At daybreak we departed from Dindikoo, and after a toilsome +day's travel, arrived in the evening at Satadoo, the capital of a +district of the same name. This town was formerly of considerable extent; +but many families had left it in consequence of the predatory incursions +of the Foulahs of Foota Jalla, who made it a practice to come secretly +through the woods, and carry off people from the corn fields, and even +from the wells near the town. In the afternoon of the 12th, we crossed +the Falemé river, the same which I had formerly crossed at Bondou in my +journey eastward. This river, at this season of the year, is easily +forded at this place, the stream being only about two feet deep. The +water is very pure, and flows rapidly over a bed of sand and gravel. We +lodged for the night at a small village called Medina, the sole property +of a Mandingo merchant, who, by a long intercourse with Europeans, has +been induced to adopt some of their customs. His victuals were served up +in pewter dishes, and even his houses were built after the fashion of the +English houses on the Gambia. + +May 13th. In the morning, as we were preparing to depart, a coffle of +slaves, belonging to some Serawoolli traders, crossed the river, and +agreed to proceed with us to Baniserile, the capital of Dentila; a very +long day's journey from this place. We accordingly set out together, and +travelled with great expedition through the woods until noon; when one of +the Serawoolli slaves dropt the load from his head, for which he was +smartly whipped. The load was replaced; but he had not proceeded above a +mile before he let it fall a second time, for which he received the same +punishment. After this he travelled in great pain until about two +o'clock, when we stopt to breathe a little, by a pool of water, the day +being remarkably hot. The poor slave was now so completely exhausted that +his master was obliged to release him from the rope, for he lay +motionless on the ground. A Serawoolli therefore undertook to remain with +him, and endeavour to bring him to the town during the cool of the night; +in the meanwhile we continued our route, and after a very hard day's +travel, arrived at Baniserile late in the evening. + +One of our Slatees was a native of this place, from which he had been +absent three years. This man invited me to go with him to his house; at +the gate of which his friends met him with many expressions of joy; +shaking hands with him, embracing him, and singing and dancing before +him. As soon as he had seated himself upon a mat by the threshold of his +door, a young woman (his intended bride) brought a little water in a +calabash, and kneeling down before him, desired him to wash his hands; +when he had done this, the girl with a tear of joy sparkling in her eyes, +drank the water; this being considered the greatest proof she could give +him of her fidelity and attachment. About eight o'clock the same evening, +the Serawoolli, who had been left in the woods to take care of the +fatigued slave, returned and told us that he was dead; the general +opinion, however, was that he himself had killed him, or left him to +perish on the road; for the Serawoollies are said to be infinitely more +cruel in their treatment of slaves than the Mandingoes. We remained at +Baniserile two days, in order to purchase native iron, shea-butter, and +some other articles for sale on the Gambia; and here the Slatee who had +invited me to his house, and who possessed three slaves, part of the +coffle, having obtained information that the price on the Coast was very +low, determined to separate from us, and remain with his slaves where he +was, until an opportunity should offer of disposing of them to advantage; +giving us to understand that he should complete his nuptials with the +young woman before mentioned, in the meantime. + +May 16th. We departed from Baniserile, and travelled through thick woods +until noon, when we saw at a distance the town of Julifunda, but did not +approach it; as we proposed to rest for the night at a large town called +Kirwani, which we reached about four o'clock in the afternoon. This town +stands in a valley, and the country for more than a mile round it is +cleared of wood and well cultivated. The inhabitants appear to be very +active and industrious, and seem to have carried the system of +agriculture to some degree of perfection; for they collect the dung of +their cattle into large heaps during the dry season, for the purpose of +manuring their land with it at the proper time. I saw nothing like this +in any other part of Africa. Near the town are several smelting furnaces, +from which the natives obtain very good iron. They afterwards hammer the +metal into small bars, about a foot in length and two inches in breadth, +one of which bars is sufficient to make two Mandingo corn hoes. On the +morning after our arrival, we were visited by a Slatee of this place, who +informed Karfa, that among some slaves he had lately purchased, was a +native of Foota Jalla; and as that country was at no great distance, he +could not safely employ him in the labours of the field, lest he should +effect his escape. The Slatee was therefore desirous of exchanging this +slave for one of Karfa's, and offered some cloth and shea-butter, to +induce Karfa to comply with the proposal, which was accepted. The Slatee +thereupon sent a boy to order the slave in question to bring him a few +ground nuts. The poor creature soon afterwards entered the court in which +we were sitting, having no suspicion of what was negociating, until the +master caused the gate to be shut, and told him to sit down. The slave +now saw his danger, and perceiving the gate to be shut upon him, threw +down the nuts, and jumped over the fence. He was immediately pursued and +overtaken by the Slatees, who brought him back, and secured him in irons, +after which one of Karfa's slaves was released and delivered in exchange. +The unfortunate captive was at first very much dejected, but in the +course of a few days his melancholy gradually subsided; and he became at +length as cheerful as any of his companions. + +Departing from Kirwani on the morning of the 20th, we entered the Tenda +Wilderness of two day's journey. The woods were very thick, and the +country shelved towards the south-west. About ten o'clock we met a coffle +of twenty-six people, and seven loaded asses, returning from the Gambia. +Most of the men were armed with muskets, and had broad belts of scarlet +cloth over their shoulders, and European hats upon their heads. They +informed us that there was very little demand for slaves on the Coast, as +no vessel had arrived for some months past. On hearing this, the +Serawoollies, who had travelled with us from the Falemé river, separated +themselves and their slaves from the coffle. They had not, they said, the +means of maintaining their slaves in Gambia until a vessel should arrive, +and were unwilling to sell them to disadvantage; they therefore departed +to the northward for Kajaaga. We continued our route through the +Wilderness, and travelled all day through a rugged country, covered with +extensive thickets of bamboo. At sunset, to our great joy, we arrived at +a pool of water near a large tabba tree, whence the place is called +Tabba-gee, and here we rested a few hours. The water at this season of +the year is by no means plentiful in these woods; and as the days were +insufferably hot, Karfa proposed to travel in the night. Accordingly, +about eleven o'clock, the slaves were taken out of their irons, and the +people of the coffle received orders to keep close together, as well to +prevent the slaves from attempting to escape, as on account of the wild +beasts. We travelled with great alacrity until daybreak, when it was +discovered that a free woman had parted from the coffle in the night; her +name was called until the woods resounded, but no answer being given, we +conjectured that she had either mistaken the road, or that a lion had +seized her unperceived. At length it was agreed that four people should +go back a few miles to a small rivulet, where some of the coffle had +stopt to drink, as we passed it in the night, and that the coffle should +wait for their return. The sun was about an hour high before the people +came back with the woman, whom they found lying fast asleep by the +stream. We now resumed our journey, and about eleven o'clock reached a +walled town called Tambacunda, where we were well received. Here we +remained four days, on account of a _palaver_ which was held on the +following occasion. Modi Lemina, one of the Slatees belonging to the +coffle, had formerly married a woman of this town, who had borne him two +children; he afterwards went to Manding, and remained there eight years, +without sending any account of himself, during all that time, to his +deserted wife; who, seeing no prospect of his return, at the end of three +years had married another man, to whom she had likewise borne two +children. Lemina now claimed his wife, but the second husband refused to +deliver her up; insisting that by the laws of Africa, when a man has been +three years absent from his wife, without giving her notice of his being +alive, the woman is at liberty to marry again. After all the +circumstances had been fully investigated in an assembly of the chief +men, it was determined that the wife should make her choice, and be at +liberty either to return to the first husband, or continue with the +second, as she alone should think proper. Favourable as this +determination was to the lady, she found it a difficult matter to make up +her mind, and requested time for consideration; but I think I could +perceive that first love would carry the day. Lemina was indeed somewhat +older than his rival, but he was also much richer. What weight this +circumstance had in the scale of his wife's affections, I pretend not to +say. + +On the morning of the 26th, as we departed from Tambacunda, Karfa +observed to me that there were no shea-trees farther to the westward than +this town. I had collected and brought with me from Manding the leaves +and flowers of this tree, but they were so greatly bruised on the road +that I thought it best to gather another specimen at this place. The +appearance of the fruit evidently places the shea-tree in the natural +order of _Sapotae_, and it has some resemblance to the _mudhuca_ tree, +described by Lieutenant Charles Hamilton, in the Asiatic Researches, Vol. +I. page 300. About one o'clock we reached Sibikillin, a walled village, +but the inhabitants having the character of inhospitality towards +strangers, and of being much addicted to theft, we did not think proper +to enter the gate. We rested a short time under a tree, and then +continued our route until it was dark, when we halted for the night by a +small stream running towards the Gambia. Next day the road led over a +wild and rocky country, everywhere rising into hills, and abounding with +monkeys and wild beasts. In the rivulets among the hills we found plenty +of fish. This was a very hard day's journey, and it was not until sunset, +that we reached the village of Koomboo, near to which are the ruins of a +large town formerly destroyed by war. The inhabitants of Koomboo, like +those of Sibikillin, have so bad a reputation, that strangers seldom +lodge in the village; we accordingly rested for the night in the fields, +where we erected temporary huts for our protection, there being great +appearance of rain. + +May 28th. We departed from Koomboo, and slept at a Foulah town about +seven miles to the westward; from which, on the day following, having +crossed a considerable branch of the Gambia, called Neola Koba, we +reached a well inhabited part of the country. Here are several towns +within sight of each other, collectively called Tenda, but each is +distinguished also by its particular name. We lodged at one of them +called Koba Tenda, where we remained the day following, in order to +procure provisions for our support in crossing the Simbani woods. On the +30th we reached Jallacotta, a considerable town, but much infested by +Foulah banditti, who come through the woods from Bondou, and steal every +thing they can lay their hands on. A few days before our arrival, they +had stolen twenty head of cattle, and on the day following made a second +attempt, but were beaten off, and one of them taken prisoner. Here one of +the slaves belonging to the coffle, who had travelled with great +difficulty for the last three days, was found unable to proceed any +farther; his master (a singing man) proposed therefore to exchange him +for a young girl, belonging to one of the townspeople. The poor girl was +ignorant of her fate, until the bundles were all tied up in the morning, +and the coffle ready to depart, when coming with some other young women +to see the coffle set out, her master took her by the hand, and delivered +her to the singing man. Never was a face of serenity more suddenly +changed into one of the deepest distress; the terror she manifested on +having the load put upon her head, and the rope fastened round her neck, +and the sorrow with which she bade adieu to her companions, were truly +affecting. About nine o'clock, we crossed a large plain covered with +_ciboa_ trees, (a species of palm,) and came to the river Nerico, a +branch of the Gambia. This was but a small river at this time, but in the +rainy season it is often dangerous to travellers. As soon as we had +crossed this river, the singing men began to vociferate a particular +song, expressive of their joy at having got safe into the west country, +or, as they expressed it, _the land of the setting sun_. The country was +found to be very level, and the soil a mixture of clay and sand. In the +afternoon it rained hard, and we had recourse to the common Negro +umbrella, a large ciboa leaf, which being placed upon the head, +completely defends the whole body from the rain. We lodged for the night +under the shade of a large tabba tree, near the ruins of a village. On +the morning following, we crossed a stream called Noulico, and about two +o'clock, to my infinite joy, I saw myself once more on the banks of the +Gambia, which at this place being deep and smooth, is navigable; but the +people told me that a little lower down, the stream is so shallow that +the coffles frequently cross it on foot. On the south side of the river, +opposite to this place, is a large plain of clayey ground, called Toombi +Toorila. It is a sort of morass, in which people are frequently lost, it +being more than a day's journey across it. In the afternoon we met a man +and two women, with bundles of cotton-cloth upon their heads. They were +going, they said, for Dentila, to purchase iron, there being a great +scarcity of that article on the Gambia. A little before it was dark, we +arrived at a village in the kingdom of Woolli, called Seesukunda. Near +this village there are great plenty of nitta-trees, and the slaves in +passing along had collected large bunches of the fruit; but such was the +superstition of the inhabitants, that they would not permit any of the +fruit to be brought into the village. They had been told, they said, that +some catastrophe would happen to the place when people lived upon nittas, +and neglected to cultivate corn. + +June 2d. We departed from Seesukunda, and passed a number of villages, at +none of which was the coffle permitted to stop, although we were all very +much fatigued: it was four o'clock in the afternoon before we reached +Baraconda, where we rested one day. Departing from Baraconda on the +morning of the 4th, we reached in a few hours Medina, the capital of the +King of Woolli's dominions, from whom the reader way recollect I received +an hospitable reception in the beginning of December 1795, in my journey +east-ward.[25] I immediately inquired concerning the health of my good +old benefactor, and learnt with great concern that he was dangerously +ill. As Karfa would not allow the coffle to stop, I could not present my +respects to the king in person; but I sent him word, by the officer to +whom we paid customs, that his prayers for my safety had not been +unavailing. We continued our route until sunset, when we lodged at a +small village a little to the westward of Koota-kunda, and on the day +following arrived at Jindey; where, eighteen months before I had parted +from my friend Dr. Laidley; an interval during which I had not beheld the +face of a Christian, nor once heard the delightful sound of my native +language. + + [25] Vide pages 51 [Second half of chapter IV. Transcriber], 72 + [Beginning of chapter VII. Transcriber.]. + +Being now arrived within a short distance of Pisania, from whence my +journey originally commenced, and learning that my friend Karfa was not +likely to meet with an immediate opportunity of selling his slaves on the +Gambia, it occurred to me to suggest to him that he would find it for his +interest to leave them at Jindey, until a market should offer. Karfa +agreed with me in this opinion; and hired from the chief man of the town, +huts for their accomodation, and a piece of land on which to employ them, +in raising corn, and other provisions for their maintenance. With regard +to myself, he declared that he would not quit me until my departure from +Africa. We set out accordingly, Karfa, myself, and one of the Foulahs +belonging to the coffle, early on the morning of the 9th; but although I +was now approaching the end of my tedious and toilsome journey, and +expected in another day to meet with countrymen and friends, I could not +part, for the last time, with my unfortunate fellow-travellers--doomed, +as I knew most of them to be, to a life of captivity and slavery in a +foreign land--without great emotion. During a wearisome peregrination of +more than five hundred British miles, exposed to the burning rays of a +tropical sun, these poor slaves, amidst their own infinitely greater +sufferings, would commiserate mine; and frequently of their own accord +bring water to quench my thirst, and at night collect branches and leaves +to prepare me a bed in the Wilderness. We parted with reciprocal +expressions of regret and benediction. My good wishes and prayers were +all I could bestow upon them; and it afforded me some consolation to be +told that they were sensible I had no more to give. + +My anxiety to get forward admitting of no delay on the road we reached +Tendacunda in the evening, and were hospitably received at the house of +an aged black female, called Seniora Camilla, a person who had resided +many years at the English factory, and spoke our language. I was known to +her before I had left the Gambia, at the outset of my journey; but my +dress and figure were now so different from the usual appearance of an +European, that she was very excusable in mistaking me for a Moor. When I +told her my name and country, she surveyed me with great astonishment, +and seemed unwilling to give credit to the testimony of her senses. She +assured me that none of the traders on the Gambia ever expected to see me +again; having been informed long ago, that the Moors of Ludamar had +murdered me, as they had murdered Major Boughton. I inquired for my two +attendants, Johnson and Demba, and learnt with great sorrow, that neither +of them was returned. Karfa who had never before heard people converse in +English, listened to us with great attention. Every thing he saw seemed +wonderful. The furniture of the house, the chairs, &c. and particularly +beds with curtains, were objects of his great admiration; and he asked me +a thousand questions concerning the utility and necessity of different +articles, to some of which I found it difficult to give satisfactory +answers. + +On the morning of the 10th, Mr. Robert Ainsley, having learnt that I was +at Tendacunda, came to meet me, and politely offered me the use of his +horse. He informed me that Dr. Laidley had removed all his property to a +place called Kaye, a little farther down the river, and that he was then +gone to Doomasansa with his vessel to purchase rice, but would return in +a day or two. He therefore invited me to stay with him at Pisania until +the Doctor's return. I accepted the invitation, and being accompanied by +my friend Karfa, reached Pisania about ten o'clock. Mr. Ainsley's +schooner was lying at anchor before the place. This was the most +surprising object which Karfa had yet seen. He could not easily +comprehend the use of the masts, sails, and rigging; nor did he conceive +that it was possible, by any sort of contrivance, to make so large a body +move forwards by the common force of the wind. The manner of fastening +together the different planks which composed the vessel, and filling up +the seams so as to exclude the water, was perfectly new to him; and I +found that the schooner with her cable and anchor, kept Karfa in deep +meditation the greater part of the day. + +About noon, on the 12th, Dr. Laidley returned from Doomasansa, and +received me with great joy and satisfaction, as one risen from the dead. +Finding that the wearing apparel which I had left under his care was not +sold nor sent to England, I lost no time in resuming the English dress, +and disrobing my chin of its venerable incumbrance. Karfa surveyed me in +my British apparel with great delight; but regretted exceedingly that I +had taken off my beard; the loss of which, he said, had converted me from +a man into a boy. Dr. Laidley readily undertook to discharge all the +pecuniary engagements I had entered into since my departure from the +Gambia, and took my draft upon the Association for the amount. My +agreement with Karfa (as I have already related) was to pay him the value +of one prime slave, for which I had given him my bill upon Dr. Laidley, +before we departed from Kamalia: for, in case of my death on the road I +was unwilling that my benefactor should be a loser. But this good +creature had continued to manifest towards me so much kindness, that I +thought I made him but an inadequate recompence, when I told him that he +was now to receive double the sum I had originally promised; and Dr. +Laidley assured him that he was ready to deliver the goods to that +amount, whenever he thought proper to send for them. Karfa was +overpowered by this unexpected token of my gratitude, and still more so, +when he heard that I intended to send a handsome present to the good old +schoolmaster Fankooma, at Malacotta. He promised to carry up the goods +along with his own; and Dr. Laidley assured him that he would exert +himself in assisting him to dispose of his slaves to the best advantage, +the moment a slave vessel should arrive. These and other instances of +attention and kindness shown him by Dr. Laidley were not lost upon Karfa. +He would often say to me, "my journey has indeed been prosperous!" But, +observing the improved state of our manufactures, and our manifest +superiority in the arts of civilized life, he would sometimes appear +pensive, and exclaim with an involuntary sigh, _fato fing inta feng_, +"black men are nothing." At other times, he would ask me with great +seriousness, what could possibly have induced me, who was no trader, to +think of exploring so miserable a country as Africa? He meant by this to +signify that, after what I must have witnessed in my own country, nothing +in Africa could in his opinion deserve a moment's attention, I have +preserved these little traits of character in this worthy Negro, not only +from regard to the man, but also because they appear to me to demonstrate +that he possessed a mind _above his condition_; and to such of my readers +as love to contemplate human nature in all its varieties, and to trace +its progress from rudeness to refinement, I hope the account I have given +of this poor African will not be unacceptable. + +No European vessel had arrived at Gambia for many months previous to my +return from the interior; and as the rainy season was now setting in, I +persuaded Karfa to return to his people at Jindey. He parted with me on +the 14th with great tenderness; but as I had little hopes of being able +to quit Africa for the remainder of the year, I told him, as the fact +was, that I expected to see him again before my departure. In this, +however, I was luckily disappointed; and my narrative now hastens to its +conclusion; for on the 15th, the ship Charlestown, an American vessel, +commanded by Mr. Charles Harris, entered the river. She came for slaves, +intending to touch at Goree to fill up; and to proceed from thence to +South Carolina. As the European merchants on the Gambia had at this time +a great many slaves on hand, they agreed with the captain to purchase the +whole of his cargo, consisting chiefly of rum and tobacco, and deliver +him slaves to the amount, in the course of two days. This afforded me +such an opportunity of returning (though by a circuitous route) to my +native country, as I thought was not to be neglected. I therefore +immediately engaged my passage in this vessel for America; and having +taken leave of Dr. Laidley, to whose kindness I was so largely indebted, +and my other friends on the river, I embarked at Kaye on the 17th day of +June. + +Our passage down the river was tedious and fatiguing; and the weather was +so hot, moist, and unhealthy, that before our arrival at Goree, four of +the seamen, the surgeon, and three of the slaves, had died of fevers. At +Goree we were detained for want of provisions, until the beginning of +October. + +The number of slaves received on board this vessel, both on the Gambia +and at Goree, was one hundred and thirty; of whom about twenty-five had +been, I suppose, of free condition in Africa, as most of them, being +Bushreens, could write a little Arabic. Nine of them had become captives +in the religious war between Abdulkader and Damel, mentioned in the +latter part of the preceding chapter; two of the others had seen me as I +passed through Bondou, and many of them had heard of me in the interior +countries. My conversation with them, in their native language, gave them +great comfort; and as the surgeon was dead, I consented to act in a +medical capacity in his room for the remainder of the voyage. They had in +truth need of every consolation in my power to bestow; not that I +observed any wanton acts of cruelty practised either by the master or the +seamen towards them; but the mode of confining and securing Negroes in +the American slave ships, (owing chiefly to the weakness of their crews,) +being abundantly more rigid and severe than in British vessels employed +in the same traffic, made these poor creatures to suffer greatly, and a +general sickness prevailed amongst them. Besides the three who died on +the Gambia, and six or eight while we remained at Goree, eleven perished +at sea, and many of the survivors were reduced to a very weak and +emaciated condition. + +In the midst of these distresses, the vessel, after having been three +weeks at sea, became so extremely leaky, as to require constant exertion +at the pumps. It was found necessary, therefore, to take some of the +ablest of the Negro men out of irons, and employ them in this labour; in +which they were often worked beyond their strength. This produced a +complication, of miseries not easily to be described. We were, however, +relieved much sooner than I expected; for the leak continuing to gain +upon us, notwithstanding our utmost exertions to clear the vessel, the +seamen insisted on bearing away for the West Indies, as affording the +only chance of saving our lives. Accordingly, after some objections on +the part of the master, we directed our course for Antigua, and +fortunately made that island in about thirty-five days after our +departure from Goree. Yet even at this juncture we narrowly escaped +destruction; for on approaching the north-west side of the island, we +struck on the Diamond Rock, and got into St John's harbour with great +difficulty. The vessel was afterwards condemned as unfit for sea, and the +slaves, as I have heard, were ordered to be sold for the benefit of the +owners. + +At this island I remained ten days; when the Chesterfield Packet, +homeward bound from the Leeward Islands, touching at St John's for the +Antigua mail, I took my passage in that vessel. We sailed on the 24th of +November; and after a short but tempestuous voyage, arrived at Falmouth +on the 22d of December; from whence I immediately set out for London; +having been absent from England two years and seven months. + +[Here terminates Mr. Park's own narrative. The following chapters contain +an account of his life from his return to England, in 1797, to his death +on the Niger, in 1805; and also of the discoveries and adventures of +succeeding travellers.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +_Attempts of Horneman, Nicholls, Roentgen, and Adams._ + + +During the interval which elapsed between Park's first and second +journey, several attempts were made to explore Central Africa. The first +traveller was Frederick Horneman, a student of Gottingen, who was +recommended by Professor Blumenbach to the patronage of the African +Association. After spending some time in the study of Natural History, +and the Arabic language, he went to Cairo, intending to join some +caravan, under the assumed character of an Arab or Moslem. It was not +till the following year, 1798, that he was enabled to find a caravan +proceeding westward, and bound for Fezzan. On the 8th September, they +left Egypt, entering upon a wide expanse of sandy desert, resembling what +might be supposed to be the bed of the ocean after the waters had left +it. It was covered with fragments of petrified wood, of a lightish grey +colour and bearing a strong resemblance to natural wood. The Arabs +travelled all day, and when they halted at night, each gathered a few +sticks and prepared his own victuals. There were a few _oases_ in this +waste. In ten days they came to Ummesogeir, a village containing one +hundred and twenty inhabitants, who lived on a rock, subsisting on dates, +and separated by immense tracts of sand from all intercourse with the +rest of the world. In twenty-four hours they came to Siwah, an extensive +oasis, about fifty miles in circumference, and the only inhabited spot of +any considerable extent on the route to Fezzan. Here there were found +some curious remains of antiquity; among the rest a monument, called by +the natives Ummebeda, a large mass of dilapidated ruins, which some +suppose to have been the celebrated shrine of Jupiter Ammon. Thence they +travelled through sandy regions, diversified with numerous limestone +rocks. Here Horneman was in considerable danger; for the caravan was met +by several hundred inhabitants of Siwah, mounted on asses, who pointed to +him and insisted that he and another of the caravan were Christians from +Cairo, against whom they cherished a deadly enmity. But Horneman's +coolness and courage disarmed their hostility; he insisted that he was a +Moslem, took out the Koran and read passages from it aloud, and even +challenged them to answer him on points of the Mahommedan faith. + +Soon after the travellers entered the Black Harutsch, a range of dreary +mountains, the long defiles of which presented the most dismal prospect +imaginable. After sixteen days toilsome journeying they came to the great +Oasis, or small Kingdom of Fezzan. The inhabitants were a commercial +people, and received the caravan with joy. Much communication is held +between this place and Central Africa. Here Horneman endeavoured to +collect information concerning Tombuctoo and the Niger. He resolved to +visit Tripoli before endeavouring to penetrate to the south. He set off +on his journey southward on the 6th April 1800, along with two shereefs +or descendants of Mahomed, who had promised to protect him. Two years +elapsed before any more was heard of him; when a Fezzan merchant informed +the Danish Consul at Tripoli, that he was still alive. He was afterwards +reported to have resided in Kashna, about 1803. Major Denham heard that +he had penetrated as far as Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to +the climate. + +The next traveller sent out to Africa was Mr. Nicholls, who resolved to +land at Calabar, in the Gulf of Benin, and thence to proceed into the +interior. He landed on the coast in January 1805, but speedily fell a +victim to the fever of the country. + +Roentgen, a German, endeavoured to reach the interior by the way of +Morocco. He spoke Arabic fluently, assumed the Mahomedan garb, and +entertained high hopes of success. Having procured two guides, he joined +the Soudan caravan; but, a little distance from the spot whence he set +out, his corpse was found lying on the road. + +Soon after, some information concerning Tombuctoo was derived from Adams, +an American sailor, who was wrecked upon the coast, and who reported that +he had been carried captive to that city by the Moors, and had remained +there six months. His description of this famous place ill corresponded +with the ideas which Europeans entertained of its splendour; the most +spacious of the houses being merely huts, one storey in height, composed +of timber frame-works filled with earth; and many of the inhabitants +sheltering themselves under hovels, consisting of branches of trees, +covered with mats of the palmetto. The palace was merely a collection of +such apartments enclosed by a mud wall. The inhabitants were of a gay and +thoughtless disposition, spending much of their time in dancing. The +chief traffic of the place was in slaves. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +_From Park's return, to his Second Expedition._ + + +Park's own narrative of his travels will now have informed the reader of +all that wonderful train of events which the hardy and enterprising +discoverer went through: of his captivity among the Moors--his +escape--his discovery of the course of the Niger--of the African capital +of Sego--his journey through Bambarra, and his toilsome and perilous +return. On his arrival at Pisania, his kind and attentive friend Dr. +Laidley was absent, but a countryman, Mr. Robert Ainslie, invited him to +his house. In two days Dr. Laidley returned, and hailed Park with joy, +receiving him as "one risen from the dead." As no European vessel was at +that time expected to arrive at Gambia, Park embarked on the 15th June +1797, on board a slave-ship bound to America. This vessel was driven by +stress of wind to the West Indies, and at length, after much difficulty, +succeeded in making the island of Antigua; whence Park sailed on the 24th +November, in the Chesterfield Packet, which, after a short but stormy +passage, reached Falmouth on the 22d December. No intelligence had for a +long time reached England of the wanderer's fate, and his bones were +supposed to have been bleaching amid the sands of the desert. + +Park arrived at London, before day-break, on the morning of the 25th; +and, unwilling to disturb his brother-in-law's family at such an +unseasonable hour, he wandered about for some time through the streets +near Mr. Dickson's residence. As he strolled along, finding one of the +entrances to the gardens of the British Museum accidentally left open, he +entered and walked about there for some time. It chanced that Mr. +Dickson, who superintended the gardens, had found occasion to go there +thus early about some trifling matter or other. What must have been his +astonishment at beholding, by the still weak light, the form--or as it +had rather seemed--the vision, of that relative, who had ever been in his +most anxious thoughts, and whose countenance he had never expected again +to see, or even to learn tidings of his fate. A joyful welcome of course +ensued, and Park's anxieties concerning his relations, were speedily set +at rest. + +The interest attached to his return was by no means confined to his +relations and friends--the public at large, whose sympathies had followed +the traveller on his arduous way, were gratified to learn that he had +again returned, after having made important discoveries, and tracked a +considerable portion of the course of the Niger. Rumours were also +current of his "hair-breadth 'scapes," and the lovers of novelty and +adventure were anxious to hear the particulars of his wanderings. The +African Association triumphed in the success of his mission, and were +proud that the assiduous diligence of Park had, under such unfavourable +circumstances, collected a mass of information which so far outweighed +the results of all previous expeditions, and that they could therefore +claim justly more support from the public. They gave a substantial proof +of their gratitude to Park, by permitting him to publish his travels for +his own benefit; and a complete narrative of his journey from his own pen +was speedily announced to be in preparation. An abstract, drawn up by Mr. +Bryan Edwards, from Park's Notes, was printed for private circulation +among the members of the Association in the meantime; it was also +enriched by a valuable Memoir by Major Rennel, on African Geography. This +publication afterwards formed the ground-work of the larger work, to the +quarto edition of which Major Kennel's narrative was also appended. + +During the remainder of that winter Park resided in London, arranging the +materials of his work; he also required to be in constant communication +with the members of the Association, while the memoirs we have alluded to +were being drawn up. His engaging and unassuming manners gained him the +friendship of Mr. Edwards, to whose country residence at Southampton he +paid frequent visits. Repeated offers were made to him by Government, who +then wished to procure a complete survey of New Holland; but this scene +of action did not seem to present sufficient attractions to Park, for he +declined it. + +In June 1798, Park went to Scotland, and visited his relations at +Fowlshiels, where he remained the whole of the ensuing summer and autumn. +Great must have been the joy of his relatives, when he, who had been +mourned for as dead, was again an inmate of their house. The fame which +he had earned in other quarters by his daring heroism, must have been +poor in value, compared with the admiration and interest with which his +tales were listened to beneath the domestic roof; and the expressions of +wonder which his adventures had extorted from strangers, must to his mind +have seemed tame and heartless, when he beheld the astonishment and +breathless interest depicted on the countenances, and glistening in the +eyes of the family circle. All this time he was employed upon his +travels, busying himself with his manuscripts almost the whole day, and +only indulging himself in the evenings with a solitary walk. The work was +difficult, and untried authorship he found almost as arduous as his +journeyings. He was unaccustomed to writing; his notes were imperfect and +scanty, so that he had frequently to draw upon memory; care, and +correction, and retrenchment were necessary to render his work worthy of +the interest which his adventures had excited; and he knew that it would +be carefully sifted by each of the two contending parties, who were on +the watch for information concerning the great controverted question of +the slave-trade, so that the utmost nicety and exactness were requisite +in stating the facts respecting it, which had fallen under his notice. +The long-expected work at length appeared in April 1799, in quarto, and +met with the greatest popularity. It was sought after with avidity, both +on account of the novelty and importance of the information comprised in +it, and the interesting manner in which the narrative was conducted. Two +large impressions were soon disposed of, and numerous smaller editions +and abridgments were from time to time called for. In a literary point of +view, the book is of rare merit; the style is clear, simple and direct; +and though the writer's personal adventures form the main topic, there is +no trace of ostentation or egotism. It bears all the marks of fidelity +and truthfulness, and has obtained the highest commendations from every +judge capable of forming an estimate of it. + +The circumstance of a portion of Mr. Edwards' Narrative having been +incorporated into the Travels, and of Park's having acknowledged, in the +Preface, his obligations to that gentleman's revision, gave rise to an +unfounded report of his being the real author of the volume. This rumour, +however, has been long since rejected, both from the letters of Park, +published after Mr. Edwards' death, and also from the internal evidence +of the style, which presents a remarkable contrast to the elaborate and +ornate composition of Mr. Edwards' works. + +There is another subject connected with the publication of his Travels, +which has excited too much discussion to permit us to pass it over in +silence; viz. his statements concerning the slave-trade. It has been +supposed, without any adequate ground, that Park's sentiments were +unfavourable to its abolition; but the strictly impartial nature and +neutral tone of his statements on this subject, were sufficiently proved +by the fact, that both parties confidently appealed to his pages, as +supporting their particular views. Besides, there is at least one passage +in the work which implies, that Park looked upon this iniquitous traffic +with no favourable eye; though he might not be convinced, upon the whole, +that the proper period had arrived for doing it away. And in justice to +his memory, it ought to be stated, that his nearest relatives and most +intimate friends had often heard him express himself strongly against the +system. All that the most scrutinizing reader can infer from these +passages, merely amounts to this, that some of the abolitionists, in +their generous zeal, might possibly have overrated the _immediate_ good +effect which the discontinuance of the practice would produce. Moreover, +it was no part of Park's business to enter upon a political or commercial +discussion on this subject, for his object was to give a clear and simple +account of his own observations, not to discuss other men's theories; and +both delicacy and propriety concurred in rendering such a course proper, +since Mr. Bryan Edwards, and some other members of the African +Association; to whose kind attention and patronage he owed so much, were +decided supporters of the slave-trade. + +After the publication of his work, he at first seemed resolved to retire +into domestic and professional life; There had been an attachment of long +standing between him and a daughter of Mr. Anderson, with, whom he had +served his apprenticeship. The marriage had been settled the preceding +summer, and was only postponed till the publication of his Travels gave +him leisure for enjoying the pleasures of connubial happiness. If, +however, he had at any time formed the resolution of spending the +remainder of his days at home, his mind soon changed; for soon after, we +find him endeavouring, through various channels, to get his services +accepted, either by the Association, or by Government. He had frequent +communications with his steady friend, Sir Joseph Banks, upon this +subject; and no opportunity of qualifying himself still farther for such +an expedition was left unimproved. For two years he seemed not to have +fixed upon any determinate course of life; sometimes considering the +propriety of renting a form, and occasionally looking out for openings in +the medical profession. In the meantime, the profits derived from his +Travels secured him from want, and prevented him from proving burdensome +to his family. Unknown to them, he seems to have been employing every +means to get the master passion of his soul gratified; and he fondly +trusted that it would be shortly in his power to add to the discoveries +he had already made. He rejected a proposal made to him by Mr. Edwards, +to superintend his property in the West Indies, evidently cherishing the +hope of being again sent out by the African Association. About this time, +the capture of Goree seemed to open a communication with Central Africa, +and Park thought it a good opportunity for revisiting that country. He +wrote a letter to Sir Joseph Banks, expressing a confident hope of +success, provided the countenance of Government were obtained. His +proposal was not at that time accepted; and in a letter to Sir Joseph, +dated 31st July 1800, he thus writes,--"If such are the views of +Government, I hope that my exertions, in some station or other, may be of +use to my country. I have not yet found any situation in which I could +practise to advantage as a surgeon; and unless some of my friends +interest themselves in my behalf, I must wait patiently until the cloud +that hangs over my future prospects is dispelled." Evidently he could not +reconcile his taste either to farming, or to the dull and wearisome +drudgery of a country surgeon's life; in fact, he seemed altogether +discontented with his profession. But when he saw that his prospect of +employment by the Association was by no means certain, and might be long +deferred, he felt that, as an honest man, it was necessary to provide +some certain means of support for a wife and family. In October 1801, an +opening took place at Peebles, by the decease of one of the two regular +practitioners in that town: he settled there, and soon acquired a +practice which, if not particularly remunerating, was at least tolerably +extensive. He was surrounded by a pastoral, and, in some places, +uncultivated district; and had often to make long rides at night along +bad roads, to afford aid to those whose poverty did not allow them to +make any return for his skill and kindness. The rides of a country +surgeon, near an unfrequented district, are dreary and long; "he is at +the mercy of all who may demand his assistance within a circle of forty +miles in diameter, untraversed by roads in many directions, and including +moors, mountains, rivers, and lakes," generally for a very low +recompense, and sometimes for none at all. + +Sir Walter Scott has so well described a country surgeon's miseries, that +we shall quote the passage, more especially as it bears particular +reference to Park:--"Like the ghostly lover of Leonora, he mounts at +midnight, and traverses in darkness paths which, to those less accustomed +to them, seem formidable in daylight, through straits where the slightest +aberration would plunge him into a morass, or throw him over a precipice, +on to cabins which his horse might ride over without knowing they lay in +his way, unless he happened to fall through the roofs. When he arrives at +such a stately termination of his journey, where his services are +required, either to bring a wretch into the world, or prevent one from +leaving it, the scene of misery is often such, that, far from touching +the hard saved shillings which are gratefully offered to him, he bestows +his medicines as well as his attendance--for charity. I have heard the +celebrated traveller Mungo Park, who had experienced both courses of +life, rather give the preference to travelling as a discoverer in Africa, +than to wandering, by night and day, the wilds of his native land in the +capacity of a country medical practitioner. He mentioned having once upon +a time rode forty miles, sat up all night, and successfully assisted a +woman under influence of the primitive curse, for which his sole +remuneration was a roasted potato and a draught of butter milk. But his +was not the heart which grudged the labour that relieved human misery. In +short, there is no creature in Scotland that works harder, and is more +poorly requited than the country doctor, unless, perhaps, it may be his +horse. Yet the horse is, and indeed must be, hardy, active, and +indefatigable, ever liable to be unpleasantly interrupted, in spite of a +rough coat and indifferent condition; and so you will often find in his +master, under an unpromising and blunt exterior, professional skill and +enthusiasm, intelligence humanity, courage, and science." Such was +certainly the character of Park: having himself experienced what it was +to suffer unrelieved, he was ready to sympathize with his suffering +fellow-creatures, and to endure every hardship and privation when +humanity called upon him to do so. But his liberality was a great enemy +to his purse, and for a considerable time, all he could do was barely +enough to earn a livelihood. Such difficulties every one, generally, who +enters upon this arduous profession must lay his account with. His +reputation as a discoverer, his modest and unassuming character, and the +propriety of his conduct, however, gained Park many friends, some of whom +were literary men of great eminence, such as Adam Ferguson and Dugald +Stewart. In addition to the honour of attracting the notice of men so +gifted in intellectual endowments, he was also on the best terms with +many of the neighbouring gentry,--among others, with Sir Walter Scott, +who had not then attained that high place among his contemporaries which +he afterwards held. He had also formed many acquaintances in a humbler +rank of life,--men of shrewdness and sagacity, in whose homely +conversation Park felt much pleasure. He enrolled himself a member of a +volunteer corps raised in the district, and proved a great acquisition to +the mess-table. One thing was remarkable about Park, that, go where he +would, he never introduced his own adventures, seldom ever answering +queries concerning them, unless when asked by intimate friends. He shewed +the true modesty of a brave man, in never reminding those around him that +he had overcome great perils and distresses. Yet those who knew him best, +describe him as always apparently cherishing a secret purpose in his +bosom. His mind, in fact, seems never to have been diverted from its +grand purpose; it was directed to the prospect of adding yet more claims +to the notice of posterity: hence, he could neither bring himself down +patiently to the ordinary routine of common-place life, nor take a great +interest in the feelings and pursuits of the society with which he +mingled. Often would his thoughts be wafted across the ocean to the +burning deserts of Africa, and directed to the prospect of tracing out +the windings of the mysterious Niger. + +About this time, by the advice of Sir Joseph Banks, he became a candidate +for the Botanical Chair at Edinburgh, vacant by the decease of Dr. +Rutherford. In his efforts to obtain the appointment he failed. This +circumstance probably hastened his determination of again setting out for +Africa; and, in 1803, a favourable opportunity seemed to be afforded. He +received a letter from the Colonial Office, requiring his immediate +presence in London. He had an interview with Lord Hobart, then Colonial +Secretary, who informed him that it was the intention of Government to +organize an expedition for discovery in Africa, to be placed under his +superintendence. This proposal was exactly what Park wished; the subject, +in all its bearings, had been considered by him in almost hourly +meditations; he resolved inwardly to accept the proposal, but asked a +brief space to consult his family and friends. He returned immediately to +Scotland, and again journeying to London, at once closed with the offer, +and proceeded to make his preparations, expecting in a few weeks to set +sail for Africa. But the usual delays of office took place, and the +expedition was only announced to sail from Portsmouth about the end of +February. Before that period arrived, the impatient traveller was +mortified to find that the important political changes which were then in +agitation would at least defer, if not altogether destroy his projects. +This blow was the more severe, as the stores and troops had been already +embarked. + +Mr. Pitt was made First Commissioner of the Treasury, and Chancellor of +the Exchequer in May. When the commotion caused by this change had +subsided a little, Government was able to direct its attention to +subjects less immediately pressing, and among the rest, to African +discovery. Park received an intimation from the Colonial Office, that the +intention of sending out an expedition had by no means been lost sight +of; and, in the meantime, he was advised to direct his particular +attention to those branches of knowledge which might facilitate the +undertaking, with the understanding that all necessary expenses would be +defrayed. The earliest period at which he could possibly set out was +September, and he determined diligently to improve the interval. He +chiefly directed his attention to the method of taking astronomical +observations, and to the study of the Arabic language. For the latter +purpose, he engaged a native of Mogadore, Sidi Omback Boubi, who then +resided in London, and had served as the interpreter to Elphi Bey, the +Mameluke ambassador from Cairo, to accompany him to Scotland. Park and +his oriental companion arrived at Peebles in March, and resided there +till about the middle of May; he then removed to Fowlshiels, where he +remained till the expected summons from the Secretary of State should +reach him. Sidi Omback appeared quite a phenomenon to the inhabitants of +Peebles. He was a firm adherent of the Mahometan faith, and scrupulous to +an excess; observing rigidly the Prophet's prohibitions respecting wine +and spirits, and eating no meat which had not been killed by his own +hand. The method in which he performed this operation was somewhat +peculiar:--having stalked solemnly into the market, and pitched upon his +animal, he turned its head towards the east, muttered over it a short +prayer, and then cut off its head, rejecting the blood as unclean. He had +the greatest aversion to prints and paintings, and nearly stabbed a young +man who was bold enough to take a sketch of his peculiar visage. He +punctually performed his devotions according to the fashion of his own +country, and professed to be a great interpreter of dreams and omens. In +one instance, he proved a true prophet, for he said more than once, that +if Park went a second time to Africa, he would never return; and though +urgently requested by Park to join the expedition, he refused. + +When Sir Walter Scott first became acquainted with Park, he was living in +seclusion at the farm of Fowlshiels, nearly opposite Newark Castle. They +soon became much attached to each other; and Scott supplied some +interesting anecdotes of their brief intercourse to the late Mr. Wishaw, +the editor of Park's posthumous Journal, with which, says Mr. Lockhart, I +shall blend a few minor circumstances which I gathered from him in +conversation long afterwards. "On one occasion," he says, "the traveller +communicated to him some very remarkable adventures which had befallen +him in Africa, but which he had not recorded in his book." On Scott's +asking the cause of this silence, Mungo answered, "That in all cases +where he had information to communicate which he thought of importance to +the public, he had stated the facts boldly, leaving it to his readers to +give such credit to his statements as they might appear justly to +deserve; but that he would not shock their faith, or render his travels +more marvellous, by introducing circumstances which, however true, were +of little or no moment, as they related solely to his own personal +adventures and escapes," This reply struck Scott as highly characteristic +of the man; and though strongly tempted to set down some of these marvels +for Mr. Wishaw's use, he, on reflection, abstained from doing so, holding +it unfair to record what the adventurer had deliberately chosen to +suppress in his own narrative. He confirms the account given by Park's +biographer of his cold and reserved manners to strangers, and in +particular, of his disgust with the _indirect_ questions which curious +visitors would often put to him upon the subject of his travels. "This +practice," said Mungo, "exposes me to two risks,--either that I may not +understand the questions meant to be put, or that my answers to them may +be misconstrued;" and he contrasted such conduct with the frankness of +Scott's revered friend, Dr. Adam Ferguson, who, the very first day the +traveller dined with him at Hallyards, spread a large map of Africa on +the table, and made him trace out his progress thereupon, inch by inch, +questioning him minutely as to every step he had taken. "Here, however," +says Scott, "Dr. F. was using a privilege to which he was well entitled +by his venerable age and high literary character, but which could not +have been exercised with propriety by any common stranger." + +Calling one day at Fowlshiels, and not finding Park at home, Scott walked +in search of him along the banks of the Yarrow, which in that +neighbourhood passes over various ledges of rock, forming deep pools and +eddies between them. Presently he discovered his friend standing alone on +the bank, plunging one stone after another into the water, and watching +anxiously the bubbles as they rose to the surface. "This," said Scott, +"appears but an idle amusement for one who has seen so much stirring +adventure." "Not so idle, perhaps, as you suppose," answered Mungo. "This +was the manner in which I used to ascertain the depth of a river in +Africa before I ventured to cross it, judging whether the attempt would +be safe by the time the bubbles of air took to ascend." At this time, +Park's intention of a second expedition had never been revealed to Scott, +but he instantly formed the opinion that these experiments on Yarrow were +connected with some such purpose. + +His thoughts had always continued to be haunted with Africa. He told +Scott, that whenever he awoke suddenly in the night, owing to a nervous +disorder with which he was troubled, he fancied himself still a prisoner +in the tent of Ali; but when the Poet expressed some surprise that he +should design again to revisit those scenes, he answered, that he would +rather brave Africa and all its horrors, than wear out his life in long +and toilsome rides over the hills of Scotland, for which the remuneration +was hardly enough to keep soul and body together. + +Towards the end of autumn, when about to quit his country for the last +time, Park paid Scott a farewell visit, and slept at Ashestiel. Next +morning his host accompanied him homewards over the wild chain of hills +between the Tweed and the Yarrow. Park talked much of the new scheme, and +mentioned his determination to tell his family that he had some business +for a day or two in Edinburgh, and send them his blessing from thence, +without returning to take leave. He had married, not long before, a +pretty, amiable woman; and when they reached the _William Hope Ridge_, +"the autumnal mist floating heavily and slowly down the valley of the +Yarrow," presented to Scott's imagination "a striking emblem of the +troubled and uncertain prospect which his undertaking afforded." He +remained, however, unshaken; and at length they reached the spot at which +they had agreed to separate. A small ditch divided the moor from the +road, and, in going over it, Park's horse stumbled, and nearly fell. "I +am afraid, Mungo," said the Sheriff, "that is a bad omen." To which he +answered, smiling, "_Freits_ (omens) follow those who look to them." With +this expression Mungo struck the spurs into his horse, and Scott never +saw him again. His parting proverb, by the way, was probably suggested by +one of the Border ballads, in which species of lore he was almost as +great a proficient as the Sheriff himself; for we read in "Edom o' +Gordon,"--"Them look to freits, my master dear. Then freits will follow +them."[26] + + [26] Lockhart's Life of Scott, Vol. II. + +In the beginning of September, Park received the summons from the +Colonial Office, and had a satisfactory interview with Lord Camden. He +had previously, at Lord Camden's request, given in to him a memorial, +comprising a statement of his views concerning the objects of the +expedition, the means which he would require for his purpose, and the +manner in which the plans of Government were to be carried into +execution. The object of his journey. Park stated to be the extension of +British commerce, and the enlargement of geographical knowledge; +particular attention was to be paid to the state of the interior, the +course of the Niger, and the character and situation of the towns upon +its banks. The means Park requested were thirty European soldiers, six +carpenters, fifteen or twenty Goree negroes, fifty asses, and six horses +or mules. Each man was to be provided with gun, pistols, and suitable +clothing. He gave in also a list of other articles which he required, +comprising harness and equipments for the asses, carpenters tools, and +cordage, with other stores, for building two boats of forty feet length, +to sail down the Niger, and a number of articles of commerce to procure +supplies from the natives, and for presents to their chiefs, such as +coloured cloth, amber, gold, and glass beads, arms and ammunition, +mirrors, knives, scissors, &c. Park's proposed route was to proceed up +the Gambia, cross the country to the Niger, when they were to sail down +the river till they came to its termination. If, as Park supposed, in +place of being lost, according to Major Rennel's theory, in some +imaginary lake called Margara, it took a southerly direction, and might +prove to be the river Congo; it was his intention to embark on board some +slave-ship, and return, either by the way of St. Helena or the West +Indies. Major Rennel earnestly advised Park against the expedition, but +without success, and indeed, upon the Major's theory, the plan was +utterly impracticable. Some have censured Park for going on an +expedition, which at the outset was pronounced to be hopeless; and these +"prophets of evil" claimed abundant credit for their sagacity. But Park +had made up his mind, and was not to be turned aside from his purpose. +Fatally confident, as the event proved, in his own resources, he was not +to be daunted by the formidable array of difficulties which he must have +well known he would have to face; and though somewhat disheartened for a +time by these representations, he was consoled by the approbation of Sir +Joseph Banks, and other scientific men. + +Orders were now given for the completion of the arrangements; but +vexations and fatal delays again occurred, which contributed most +materially to diminish the chances of the success of the expedition. It +was now impossible that they could be landed in Africa before the rainy +season had commenced; and it was only after three months impatient +waiting that Park got these final instructions:-- + +"_Downing Street, 2d January_ 1805. + +"SIR,--It being judged expedient that a small expedition should be sent +into the interior of Africa, with a view to discover and ascertain +whether any, and what commercial intercourse can be opened therein, for +the mutual benefit of the natives and of his Majesty's subjects, I am +commanded by the King to acquaint you, that on account of the knowledge +you have acquired of the nations of Africa, and from the indefatigable +exertions and perseverance you displayed in your travels among them, his +Majesty has selected you for conducting this undertaking. + +"For the better enabling you to execute this service, his Majesty has +granted you the brevet commission of a Captain in Africa, and has also +granted a similar commission of Lieutenant to Mr. Alexander Anderson, +whom you have recommended as a proper person to accompany you. Mr. Scott +has also been selected to attend you as a draftsman. You are hereby +empowered to enlist with you, for this expedition, any number you think +proper of the garrison at Goree, not exceeding forty-five, which the +Commandant of that island will be ordered to place under your command, +giving them such bounties or encouragement as may be necessary to induce +them cheerfully to join with you on the expedition. + +"And you are hereby authorised to engage, by purchase or otherwise, such +a number of black artificers at Goree as you shall judge necessary for +the objects you have in view. + +"You are to be conveyed to Goree in a transport, convoyed by his +Majesty's sloop Eugenie, which will be directed to proceed with you, in +the first instance, to St. Jago, in order that you may there purchase +fifty asses for carrying your baggage. + +"When you shall have prepared whatever may be necessary for securing the +objects of your expedition at Goree, you are to proceed up the river +Gambia, and thence crossing over to the Senegal, to march, by such route +as you shall find most eligible, to the banks of the Niger. + +"The great object of your journey will be to pursue the course of this +river to the utmost possible distance to which it can be traced,--to +establish communication and intercourse with the different nations on the +banks,--to obtain all the local knowledge in your power respecting +them,--and to ascertain the various points stated in the memoir which you +delivered to me on the 4th of October last. + +"And you will be then at liberty to pursue your route homewards by any +line you shall think most secure, either by taking a new direction +through the interior towards the Atlantic, or by marching upon Cairo, by +taking the route leading to Tripoli. + +"You are hereby empowered to draw for any sum that you may be in want of, +not exceeding Ł5000, upon the Lords of his Majesty's Treasury, or upon +such a mercantile banking-house in London as you may fix upon. I am, &c. + +"(Signed) CAMDEN. + +"_To Mungo Park, Esq. &c. &c. &c._" + +Before Park departed, Government had generously resolved, that, in +addition to a handsome reward for his own services, the sum of Ł4000 +should be settled upon his wife and family, in the event of his death or +non-appearance after a certain stipulated time. Nothing, therefore, +remained but that he should finally settle his affairs, and take an +affectionate farewell of his friends, who bade adieu to him with a heavy +heart, fearing that they would never see his face again. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +_Park's Second Journey--The Gambia to Bambakoo._ + + +On the 30th January 1805, Park, accompanied by Mr. Anderson, his +brother-in-law, who was to be second in command of the expedition, and +Mr. Scott, a friend and neighbour, who went as draftsman, together with +four or five artificers from the dockyards, set sail from Portsmouth in +the Crescent transport, and reached Port Prayo Bay in St. Jago on the 8th +March, after a very stormy passage. Having purchased forty-four asses, +they left this place on the 21st March, and having made the coast of +Africa on the 25th, anchored in Goree Roads. From the garrison at this +place Park had been instructed to select a limited party of soldiers--an +arrangement which proved by no means favourable to the success of the +expedition, as many of the men were of intemperate habits, and, through +their long residence at Goree, most of them were much debilitated by the +climate. Park fixed upon thirty-five, who seemed the strongest men of the +garrison, to accompany him; and one of their officers, Lieutenant Martyn, +also volunteered. Two experienced seamen, by permission of Captain +Shortland of the Squirrel frigate, were also to go with him, as their +assistance would prove most useful in equipping' the boats for sailing +down the Niger. Before they left Goree, Park wrote the following letter +to his wife:-- + +"_Goree, 4th April_ 1805. + +"I have just now learnt that an American ship sails from this place for +England in a day or two, and I readily embrace the opportunity of sending +a letter to my dear wife. We have all of us kept our health very well +ever since our departure from England, Alexander had a touch of the +rheumatism at St. Jago, but is now quite recovered. He danced several +country dances at the ball last night. George Scott is also in good +health and spirits. I wrote to you from St. Jago, which letter I hope you +received. We left that place on the 21st of March, and arrived here with +the asses on the 28th. Almost every soldier in the garrison volunteered +to go with me; and, with the Governor's assistance, I have chosen a guard +of the best men in the place. So lightly do the people here think of the +danger attending the undertaking, that I have been under the necessity of +refusing several military and naval officers who volunteered to accompany +me. We shall sail for Gambia on Friday or Saturday, I am happy to learn +that Karfa, my old friend, is at present at Jonkakonda; and I am in hopes +we shall be able to hire him to go with us. + +"We have as yet been extremely fortunate, and have got our business, both +at St. Jago and this place, finished with great success; and I have +hopes, almost to certainty, that Providence will so dispose the tempers +and passions of the inhabitants of this quarter of the world, that we +shall be enabled to _slide through_ much more smoothly than you expect. + +"I need not tell you how often I think about you; your own feelings will +enable you to judge of that. The hopes of spending the remainder of my +life with my wife and children, will make everything seem easy; and you +may be sure I will not rashly risk my life, when I know that your +happiness, and the welfare of my young ones, depend so much upon it. I +hope my mother does not torment herself with unnecessary tears about me. +I sometimes fancy how you and she will be meeting misfortune half-way, +and placing me in many distressing situations. I have as yet experienced +nothing but success, and I hope that six months more will end the whole +as I wish. + +"_P.S._--We have taken a ride this morning about twelve miles into the +country. Alexander is much pleased with it. The heat is moderate, and the +country healthy at present." + +In a letter to the Colonial Office, written at the same time as the +above, he gives the following account of his departure from Goree:--"On +the morning of the 6th of April, we embarked the soldiers, in number +thirty-five men. They jumped into the boat in the highest spirits, and +bade adieu to Goree with repeated huzzas. I believe that every man in the +garrison would have embarked with great cheerfulness; but no inducement +could prevail on a single negro to accompany me. I must therefore trust +to the Gambia for interpreters, and I expect to be able to hire or +purchase three or four in going up the river." On the 9th April they +reached Jillifree on the Gambia, and in a few days got up the river to +Kayee. Thence Park wrote several letters to his friends, among which was +the following, addressed to his wife.-- + +"_Kayee, River Gambia, 26th April_ 1805. + +"I have been busy these three days in making preparations for our +journey, and I feel rather uneasy when I think that I can receive no +letters from you till I return to England; but you may depend on this, +that I will avail myself of every opportunity of writing to you, though +from the very nature of the undertaking these opportunities will be but +few. We set off for the interior to-morrow morning, and I assure you, +that whatever the issue of the present journey may be, every thing looks +favourable. We have been successful thus far, beyond my highest +expectations. + +"The natives, instead of being frightened at us, look on us as their best +friends, and the kings have not only granted us protection, but sent +people to go before us. The soldiers are in the highest spirits, and as +many of them (like me) have left a wife and family in England, they are +happy to embrace this opportunity of returning. They never think about +difficulties; and I am confident, if there was occasion for it, that they +would defeat any number of negroes that might come against us; but of +this we have not the most distant expectation. The king of Kataba (the +most powerful king in Gambia) visited us on board the Crescent on the +20th and 21st; he has furnished us with a messenger to conduct us safely +to the king of Wooli. + +"I expect to have an opportunity of writing to you from Konkodoo or +Bammakoo, by some of the slavetraders; but as they travel very slowly, I +may probably have returned to the coast before any of my letters have +reached Goree; at any rate, you need not be surprised if you should not +hear from me for some months; nay, so uncertain is the communication +between Africa and England, that perhaps the next news you may hear may +be my arrival in the latter, which I still think will be in the month of +December. If we have to go round by the West Indies, it will take us two +months more; but as Government has given me an unlimited credit, if a +vessel is coming direct, I shall of course take a passage in her. I have +enjoyed excellent health, and have great hopes to bring this expedition +to a happy conclusion. In five weeks from the date of this letter, the +worst part of the journey will be over. Kiss all my dear children for me, +and let them know that their father loves them." + +In a letter of the same date, Park thus expresses himself with great +confidence as to his prospects of success: "Every thing at present looks +as favourable as I could wish, and if all things go well, this day six +weeks I expect to drink all your healths in the water of the Niger. The +soldiers are in good health and spirits. They are the most _dashing_ men +I ever saw; and if they preserve their health, we may keep ourselves +perfectly secure from any hostile attempt on the part of the natives. I +have little doubt but that I shall be able, with presents and fair words, +to pass through the country to the Niger: and if once we are fairly +afloat, _the day is won_. Give my kind regards to Sir Joseph and Mr. +Greville; and if they should think I have paid too little attention to +natural objects, you may mention that I had forty men and forty-two asses +to look after, besides the constant trouble of packing and weighing +bundles, palavering with the negroes, and laying plans for our future +success. I never was so busy in my life." + +His letter to his father-in-law apparently shews the same confidence in +the prospects of the expedition:-- + +"_Kayee, River Gambia, 26th April_ 1806. + +"That I have not wrote you sooner, you may be sure was not from want of +attention, but from want of time, and because I knew that you must have +received every information respecting our procedure from Alexander. I +know that you will rejoice to hear that we both of us keep our health, +and that the kind hand of Providence has thus far made our journey +prosperous. We set off to-morrow morning for the interior, with the most +flattering prospect of finishing our expedition in the course of six +months, with honour to ourselves, and benefit to mankind. I need not tell +you how solicitous I am about the welfare of my dear Allie and children. +Though I have no hopes of my hearing from her till my return to England, +yet I will indulge the hope that all is well. In case it should please +the Almighty to take me to himself, I have thought it necessary to give a +statement of the money matters in the enclosed letter, that my dear wife +and children may reap the reward of my industry. I did not do this from +any second sight, but merely to guard against a possible occurrence. I am +far from being in the least down-hearted: indeed I have so much to attend +to, that I have little time to myself. I receive great benefit from +Alexander, who is as systematic, cautious and careful as ever. I +sometimes think he has forgot his old maxim 'Take it easy.' I can easily +imagine how little Ibe[27] will be stotting about the house and garden. +Tell her if she can say her questions[28] well, I will bring her two new +frocks. My compliments to Mrs. Anderson, George, Thomas, and Bell. I +suppose Andrew will be in the army by this time. When we return to the +coast, if we are lucky enough to find a vessel coming directly to +England, I think we may be in England by the month of December, but if we +have to go round by the West Indies, it will take us two months longer. +With best wishes for your health and prosperity, I am, + +"Your affectionate friend, + +"MUNGO PARK. + +"_To Mr. Thomas Anderson, Surgeon, Selkirk, North Britain._" + + [27] Elizabeth, his infant daughter. + + [28] The Catechism. + +In spite of all the confidence which these letters express, Park was so +well aware of the extreme danger of the expedition that his mind must +have been filled with the most harassing and anxious thoughts. We have +already said, that the soldiers who accompanied him were below the +ordinary standard even of African troops. Their constitutions were worn +out by the climate, and by debauchery; and they seem to have been utter +strangers to sobriety and good discipline. But Park had a still more +serious cause of alarm arising from the repeated delays which had taken +place before the expedition was sent out, which rendered it scarcely +possible for them to reach the Niger before the rainy season set in. +There was besides, the positive certainty of encountering the great +tropical heats and tornadoes, which invariably precede and follow that +time, and prove a source of the greatest inconvenience, and sometimes +even of danger, to caravans. There were just two courses before him: he +might go forward upon the journey at all hazards, straining every nerve +to reach the Niger before the rainy season came on in full violence; or +he might wait till the middle of November, the proper period for +travelling. The latter alternative was one which his ardent spirit could +ill brook; and even could he himself have submitted to this penance, the +spending so many months in idleness and inactivity might excite the +severe displeasure of his employers. He had no reason to suppose that +they had calculated upon this great additional expense. He considered +moreover that such a contingency had not been provided for in his +instructions. The eyes of his countrymen anxiously watched his +progress--delay might be visited with severe censures. Accordingly, he +unhappily departed from the course which prudence would have pointed out, +and adopted the alternative most agreeable to his own feelings. Having +once formed his plan, he adhered to it with vigour and perseverance, +resolutely facing every obstacle, and resolved to fulfil the object of +his mission, or perish in the attempt. Whatever might be his own +misgivings and apprehensions, he concealed them from his comrades, +resolved that no disclosure of them should damp their confidence, or +weaken their efforts. + +At Kayee, Isaaco, a Mandingo priest and travelling merchant, who had had +great experience in inland travelling, was engaged to accompany the +expedition as guide. On the 27th April 1805 they left Kayee, under a +salute from the guns of the _Crescent_. They suffered great inconvenience +from the extreme heat of the weather, and the difficulty of bringing the +asses forward, most of them having been unaccustomed to heavy burdens. On +the evening of the following day they came to Pisania, Park's starting +point on his first journey, where those of his former friends, who still +resided there, were not a little astonished to see him again. He stayed +at this place for a week to complete his preparations, part of the +baggage having to arrive by water, and some of the beasts of burden, +being useless, requiring to be replaced by others. The burdens having +been equally divided among the party, and every thing ready, they set out +from Pisania, accompanied for a mile or two by most of the principal +inhabitants of the place, who were anxious to confer this honour upon the +travellers. They set out in regular order of march: Mr. Scott and one of +Isaaco's attendants in front, Lieutenant Martyn in the centre, and Mr. +Anderson and Park bringing up the rear. But their progress was slow, for +some of the asses were overloaded, and others were restive and threw off +their burdens, so that they had soon to purchase an additional number. On +the 10th May they arrived at Fatteconda, where the son of Park's friend, +the former king of Wooli, met him, from whom he learnt that his journey +was looked upon with great jealousy by some of the influential +inhabitants residing about Madina. At noon, they reached the capital of +Wooli. The asses were unloaded under a tree, without the gates of the +town. It was five o'clock before Park obtained an audience of the king, +to whom he carried as presents, a pair of silver-mounted pistols, ten +dollars, some amber and coral; but his Majesty being covetous, and +considering it beneath his dignity to receive so little, Park was obliged +to add fifteen dollars more, and double the quantity of coral and amber. +The king also begged a blanket to shield his royal person from the rains, +which was sent to him. This was only a sample of the numerous extortions +to which they were exposed; and as the natives annoyed them much, +conceiving that they carried merchandise of great value, the utmost +vigilance was necessary to guard against their sly pilferings, as well as +the more violent attempts of the numerous bands of robbers who infested +the neighbourhood. They reached Kanipe, a straggling village, on the 13th +of May. Here the women had fallen upon an ingenious plan to extort amber +and beads. After many hours labour, they had drawn up all the water from +the wells and carried it away. They were fairly baffled, however, by the +travellers; for in the evening, one of the soldiers having, as if by +accident, dropped his canteen into the well, he was lowered down by a +rope to pick it up; and standing at the bottom of the well, filled all +the camp-kettles of the party, so that the women had to depart in grief +and mortification. + +After having passed through Kussai, the country was wooded for five +miles, when the travellers reached a level plain almost destitute of +shade, along which some hundreds of antelopes, of a dark colour, and +nearly as large as bullocks, were bounding. At half-past ten they again +came to the banks of the Gambia, and halted, during the heat of the day, +under a large spreading tree. The river was here one hundred yards +across, its waters swarming with crocodiles; and, contrary to Park's +expectations, he found that it had a regular tide, rising four inches by +the shore. Here Park ascended a hill, which commanded a wide prospect of +the course of the Gambia, distinguished by a range of dark green trees, +which fringed its banks. At this place the first disaster of the +expedition occurred. John Walters, one of the soldiers, fell down in an +epileptic fit, and soon after died. They lay down to rest, apprehensive +of an attack from the natives, each man sleeping with his loaded musket +under his head. + +For some days they travelled on a line with the banks of the river; they +then crossed the river Nerico, and on the 20th May, came to Bady, in the +territory of Tenda. The chief of that place behaved with great audacity +and violence; and some of his people having carried off the guide's +horse, and Isaaco demanding it in person, he was seized, flogged, and +detained as a prisoner. His disconsolate wife and child sat, in tears, +under a tree. It would, indeed, have been an easy matter for Park and his +companions to have set fire to the town in resentment for this ill usage, +but this would have brought destruction on the innocent, and might not +have produced the desired effect of the restoration of Isaaco. But they +determined next morning, should other means prove ineffectual, to employ +force. Early in the morning, however, Isaaco was sent back by the chief, +with the lame apology that he had no desire to quarrel with Park, and +merely wished the customary tribute to be paid him. + +They went on, nearly along the same way by which Park had returned in +1797, and, having traversed the wilderness of Samarkara, came to a place +which they called Bee's Creek, from a singular accident which befel them +there. No sooner had they unsaddled their asses, and kindled a fire to +cook their supper, than an immense swarm of bees attacked both men and +asses so violently, that they took to flight precipitately in all +directions; while the burning embers set fire to some bamboos, and nearly +consumed the baggage. They, however, succeeded in snatching it up before +the flames reached it; but by this untoward accident, they lost six asses +and one horse, and most of the party were severely stung about the face +and hands. + +On the 28th May, Park came to Bamboo, where he was compelled to disburse +presents to a large amount. Thence he sent two letters to England, by the +way of Gambia,--one addressed to his wife, and the other to Sir Joseph +Banks. To the former, he gave a brief account of his journey, and then +adds, "You must not imagine, my dear friend, from this hasty sketch, that +I have neglected astronomical observations. I have observed the latitude +every two or three days, and have observed three eclipses of Jupiter's +satellites, which settle the longitude, by the help of the watch, to the +nearest mile. I find that my former journeys by foot were underrated; +some of them surprise myself when I trace the same road on horseback. I +expect to reach the Niger by the 27th of June." + +He thus writes to Mrs. Park,--"I am happy to inform you that we are half +through our journey without the smallest accident or unpleasant +circumstance. We all of us keep our health, and are on the most friendly +terms with the natives. I have seen many of my old acquaintances, and am +everywhere well received. By the 27th of June, we expect to have finished +all our travels by land; and when we have once got afloat on the river, +we shall conclude that we are embarking for England. I have never had the +smallest sickness, and Alexander (Mrs. Park's brother) is quite free from +all his stomach complaints. In fact, we have only had a pleasant journey, +and yet this is what we thought would be the worst part of it. I will +indulge the hope that my wife, children, and all friends are well. I am +in great hopes of finishing this journey with credit in a few months; and +then with what joy shall I turn my face towards home!" From these +extracts, it would seem that Park still entertained the prospect of +ultimate success. His situation appeared difficult, but not desperate. He +had now traversed what he believed would be the most arduous part of his +route, with the loss of only one of his party; and hoped that, by dint of +strenuous exertion, the greater part of the distance which lay between +him and the Niger might possibly be gone over before the rainy season set +in. But the sad realities of suffering and death were soon to break in on +his dreams of success. + +They had now arrived at Julifunda, the chief of which place extorted from +Park goods to the value of two hundred bars, before he would suffer the +party to proceed. The next day, being his Majesty's birthday, Park +halted, pitched one of the tents, and purchased a bullock and a calf for +the soldiers, who were drawn up in the afternoon, and fired a salute. +They made this as much a day of festivity as circumstances would admit +of, though they were under the necessity of drinking the king's health in +_water_, in the absence of any more stimulating and genial fluid. At +Baniserile, a Mahometan town, they met with a most hospitable reception +from the chief man, Fodi Braheima, to whom Park presented a copy of the +New Testament, in Arabic. On the 6th June, one of the carpenters, who had +been sick of the dysentery ever since they had crossed the Nerico, became +very ill. On the 7th the sick man was so ill that he had to be mounted on +an ass, which was driven forward by two soldiers; next day he threw +himself from the beast, and expressed a wish to be left alone to die, and +could only be held on by force. About noon they arrived at Medina, and +halted upon the banks of the Falemé, which the rain had discoloured, but +little increased in volume. At this place it ran over rocks, at the rate +of about four miles the hour. It abounded with fish of a great size. In +the afternoon the soldiers were quite worn out with carrying the baggage +across the river, and up the steep bank. The carpenter being in a dying +state was left with the Dooty, to whom Park gave ten bars, and also +directed a soldier to remain with him. Next morning the soldier came up +to the party at Sadadoo, and told them that the carpenter had died during +the night, and that he, with the assistance of some negroes, had buried +him. On the 9th, five of the soldiers, who had not gone into the tent, +but had remained during the rain under a tree, complained much of +headache and sickness. During the night some of the canteens had been +stolen. They left Sadadoo at sunrise, journeying over a hard rocky soil, +towards the mountains, and the advanced party reached Shrondo at sunset; +but Park did not come up to the place till eight o'clock, having mounted +one of the sick men on his horse, and assisted in driving in the wearied +asses, four of which he was compelled to leave in the woods. Here they +were overtaken by a dreadful tornado, which drenched them completely: +this proved to them indeed the "_beginning of sorrows._" Its dreadful +effects were immediately manifested in the sickness of the soldiers, many +of whom were, before the rain had fallen three minutes, seized with +vomiting; while others fell asleep, and looked as if they had been half +intoxicated. Next morning twelve of the party were sick. Before this Park +had fondly hoped that he would reach the Niger, with a moderate loss; but +now, for the first time, do we find stated in his journal, a feeling of +distrust and apprehension: "The rain," he says, "had set in, and I +trembled to think that we were only half way through, our journey." From +that period the horrors of fatal disease were superadded to those of +toilsome and dangerous journey. Many of the beasts of burden sank down or +strayed, so that an additional load had to be put upon those that +remained. The track was intersected by frequent torrents, and the sick +had to be placed upon the horses and spare asses; those whose strength +disease had not yet wasted, were worn out in endeavouring to urge on the +staggering beasts. Their footsteps were tracked by plunderers, who +watched every opportunity of pilfering. The sick soldiers would throw +themselves at the foot of a tree, declaring that they were content to +perish; even had they been suffered to remain, a quiet death could not +have been expected, as the beasts of prey were prowling about, and their +feverish rest at night was often broken by their distant howling. In the +midst of all this complication of difficulties, it is impossible not to +be struck with the nobleness of Park's conduct, facing boldly +difficulties however arduous, and endearing himself to his men by the +greatest attention and kindness,--himself enduring toil that they might +have rest, lingering behind the party to help on some exhausted soldier, +or mounting him upon his own horse, comforting the desponding, and in +their last hour consoling and soothing the dying. + +The party rested a day at Shrondo, but the distressing circumstances in +which they were involved did not prevent Park from visiting the gold +mines in the neighbourhood, and he gives in his journal a curious account +of the method in which the gold is obtained. He was guided by a woman to +a meadow where there were dug about thirty pits. Beside these lay heaps +of sand and gravel, to be conveyed to circular wash-pits, which were +lined with clay. Two calabashes are used, one large, into which the +gravel is put; the other small, with which the water is poured in. The +sand is then covered with the water, carefully crumbled down and shaken +in the calabash, and the lighter parts thrown out, till all that remains +is a black substance, called gold-rust. The shaking is then repeated, and +the grains of gold are sought out. Two pounds of gravel yield about +twenty-three particles of gold, some of which are very small; and the +bulk of gold-rust is about forty times that of the gold. The washing only +takes place at the time of the rains. + +They next proceeded along the mountains of Konkodoo to Dindikoo, where +they saw a number of gold-pits, sunk about twelve feet deep, with notches +in the sides for steps. The mountains were lofty and steep, composed of a +coarse species of red granite, but cultivated to the very tops, and the +villages built in their glens were singularly romantic. "The +inhabitants," says Park, "have plenty of water, and grass at all seasons; +they have cattle enough for their own use, and their superfluous grain +purchases all their little luxuries; and while the thunder rolls in awful +grandeur over their heads, they can look from their tremendous precipices +over all that wild and woody plain, which extends from the Falemé to the +Black River." This plain was about forty miles in extent; the lions +abounded in the plain, but none were seen among the hills. On the 18th +they had great difficulty in getting the sick forward, though all the +spare horses and asses were reserved for their use. The ass which bore +the telescope and several other articles of consequence was missing; but +was brought on the following day by one of the natives who had caught it. + +Park now began to be "very uneasy about their situation;" half of the +party were on the sick list, among whom were Messrs. Anderson and Scott, +and he himself was by no means well. They rested for one day at Fankia. +On the 15th their road lay along a steep and rocky pass in the mountains +of Tambaura. During this toilsome march they were in a state of dreadful +confusion. There were few drivers for the asses, which were overburdened +with the sick and baggage. The natives, seeing their weak state, followed +them, seizing every opportunity for pillage. At Serimanna, two of the men +were left behind. At Gambia, the natives having heard that the white men +were sickly, rose up in arms, and attempted to plunder the caravan. One +seized the Serjeant's horse, but on a pistol being presented, quitted his +hold. Others tried to drive away the asses with their loads. But the +soldiers stood firm, loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed bayonets; +upon which the natives hesitated, and the soldiers having placed the +asses in safety on the other side of a rivulet, returned. Park then +demanded of the Dooty that he should be suffered to proceed in peace. To +this after a little he consented, in consequence of the determined front +shown by the British, and to avoid farther molestation, Park deemed it +prudent to present him with four bars of amber. Near Sullo, the eyes of +the jaded and weary travellers were a little revived by the +picturesqueness of the scenery, which presented all the possible +diversities of rock, towering up like ruined castles, spires, and +pyramids. One place bore a very striking resemblance to a ruined Gothic +abbey,--the niches, windows, and staircase, having all counterparts in +the natural rock. Mr. Park describes the banks of the Ba-Fing and Ba-Lee, +two tributaries of the Senegal, to be rugged and grand beyond any thing +he had seen. + +In crossing the Ba-Fing the canoe was upset, with three men in it, one of +whom was drowned. Park's efforts to restore animation were unavailing, +and he was buried on the banks of the river. The people on the banks were +a set of thieves, and endeavoured to make off with the medicine-chest. +Not a day now passed but one or other of the soldiers died of fever, or +was left behind. At Koeena, on the 2d July, they were much annoyed by +three lions, which, after prowling about all day, at midnight attacked +the asses, which broke their ropes, and rushed in among the tents. One of +the lions approached so near that the sentry made a cut at it with his +sword. They could not sleep, because of the noise of the hippopotami +which infested that part of the river. At this time several of the +soldiers strayed, and never came up with the party again, though muskets +were frequently fired to give intimation of the route. Next day one of +the soldiers became so exhausted that he could not sit upon the ass. He +was fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and +shortly after died. His body was brought forward to a place where the +front of the coffle had halted to allow the rear to come up. "Here," says +Park, "when the coffle had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their +bayonets, and myself with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert, and +a few branches were the only laurels that covered the tomb of the brave." +When Park came up to the halting-place, which was near a pool of water, +shaded with ground palm-trees, he found that two more of the soldiers +were missing. Lights were set up, partly to scare away the lions and also +to guide those who had not come up; and Park himself went back a +considerable part of the way in search of them, but only one came up, +who, next day, lagged behind through fatigue. Search was then made for +him, but he could not be found; and they supposed that he had been +devoured by the wild beasts. + +On the 4th July they crossed the river Wonda; but as they had only one +canoe, the passage was both dangerous and tedious. Isaaco, the guide, +exerted himself much, endeavouring to drive six of the asses through a +little below where the party crossed, as the stream was there not so +deep. He had reached the middle of the river, when a crocodile rose, +seized him by the left thigh, and dragged him under water. With wonderful +presence of mind, however, he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his +finger into its eye. The monster quitted its hold for a moment, but then +seized his other thigh, and again pulled him under water. Isaaco again +thrust his fingers into its eyes. This proved effectual. The crocodile +rose to the surface, dashed about a while as if stupified, and then swam +down the middle of the river. Isaaco landed on the other side, bleeding +copiously. He was so much lacerated as for a time to be unfit for +travelling; and as his guidance was indispensable to the party, they +waited four days, to give his wounds time to heal. + +On the 11th July they came to Keminoom, the strongest fortified town Park +had seen in Africa,--whence they were very desirous to depart, as they +found the inhabitants to be "thieves to a man," committing depredations +upon the travellers with the greatest coolness and impudence, in which +the King and his thirty sons formed accomplished models for the subjects +to look up to. Here they were subjected to the most vexatious extortions, +and a number of articles were stolen from the baggage. On the 14th they +set out from this place, one of the king's sons on horseback with them as +a protector; but had not got a gun-shot from the town, when a bag was +stolen from one of the asses; Park and Martyn ran after the offender, and +recovered the bag; but before they returned to the coffle, another had +made off with a musket. About two miles from this town some of the asses +fell down. Park rode forward to look out for an easier ascent. As he held +his musket carelessly in his hand, two of the king's sons came up, one of +whom begged Park to give him a pinch of snuff. Park turned round to +assure him he had none; upon which the other stole behind him, snatched +the musket from his hand, and ran off. Park sprang from his saddle with +his sword drawn, and Mr. Anderson got within musket-shot of the thief, +but was unwilling to fire on this scion of royalty. The thief escaped up +the rocks, and when Park returned to his horse, he found that the other +descendant of royalty had stolen his great-coat. Park complained to the +king's son who accompanied them as guide; he told him that the best +course would be for the people to fire upon the delinquents. The natives +seeing their preparations hid themselves behind the rocks, and only +occasionally peeped through the crevices. The sky became overcast with +clouds, and before they were five miles from the town, a heavy tornado +came on. During the rain, another of the royal family ran off with a +musket and a pair of pistols, which a soldier had laid down while +reloading his ass. As they halted for a little, the natives nearly drove +off four of the asses. At length Park gave the soldiers directions to +shoot every one who came near the baggage, and they cleared the difficult +passes of the rocks by sunset, without sustaining any farther loss. +During the 18th a great number of articles, and one of the asses, were +stolen from the sick soldiers, who had scarcely strength to defend +themselves; and one of the party not having come up, Park supposed, with +too much probability, that he had been stripped and murdered. During that +and the following day they had three tornados. So many of the beasts of +burden had been stolen, that the men were obliged to carry part of the +loads. Park himself put a knapsack on his back, and his horse had a heavy +load of articles to bear. + +They found great difficulty in crossing the banks of the Ba-Woolima, a +narrow, rapid, and deep river, which was then much swollen by the rains, +They first endeavoured to throw across trunks of trees, but these were +carried away by the stream. They next attempted a raft; but after the +logs had been cut, the sick people were not able to drag them to the +water side. But the negroes who were with them constructed a bridge in +the most ingenious manner. It was formed of two ranges of a number of +upright forked sticks, of sufficient length. Across each of the ranges of +forks were placed two trees tied together. These beams were then +connected with cross sticks. To prevent this structure from being carried +away by the current, two large trees, fastened together, were fixed to +both banks, their roots being tied with ropes to the trees growing there; +they were allowed to sink in the water, so that the current could not +bear away the forks whose ends sloped down the stream, and the current +itself kept in their places those whose roots slanted up the stream. Here +another of the party died of fever. + +On the 22d they came to Bangassi, a large fortified town; where the king +gave them a bullock and two calabashes of sweet milk, receiving in return +a number of presents. Nevertheless, he seemed somewhat suspicious, and +questioned Park closely concerning the object of his journey. On parting, +he offered Park the protection of his son as far as Sego, whither he +intended to proceed in a few days; but Park was too anxious to reach the +Niger, to submit to any delay. The health of the soldiers became still +worse, one died, and another was left behind at Bangassi. They had not +gone far from the town when four men lay down, and declared themselves +unable to proceed. Park himself felt very sick and faint; but his spirits +were revived, and he almost felt a return of strength, when, upon +ascending an eminence, he saw some distant mountains to the southeast. +"The certainty that the Niger washed the southern base of these +mountains, made him forget his fever; and he thought of nothing but how +to climb their blue summits." + +On the 27th, July, they reached Nummasoolo, a large ruined town, which +had been destroyed by war. They had scarcely time to pitch the tent +before the rain came upon them in torrents, and threatened to destroy the +merchandise: two days were spent in drying it. Two more of the men died, +and one was left behind at this place, concerning whom there is the +following entry in Park's journal:--"Was under the necessity of leaving +here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted +much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition, and he +used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our dear +native land." Their route now lay through ruined towns and villages. The +last of the forty asses they had brought from St. Jago perished of +fatigue. On the 9th August they had to pass a rapid stream, and a number +of their beasts of burden were nearly drowned. Both Mr. Scott and +Lieutenant Martyn were suffering from fever; and Park's brother-in-law, +Mr. Anderson, was found lying under a bush, seemingly in a dying state. +Park lifted him up, carried him on his back across a stream which came up +to his middle, then placed him on his own horse, and again proceeded to +help in carrying over the loads. He crossed the stream sixteen times; +then loaded his ass, walked on foot to the next village, killing the +horse on which Anderson was, and driving the ass before him. In the two +last marches they had lost four men; and on the 12th none of the +Europeans were able to lift a load. As they went on, Park led Mr. +Anderson's horse by the bridle, to give him more ease. They passed an ass +deserted by the driver, who was never more heard of. A sick man, who had +been mounted on Park's horse, also lay on the ground. About twelve, +Anderson's strength seemed quite exhausted, and Park laid him under a +bush, and sat down near him. Two hours after he again made an effort to +proceed, but was compelled to desist. Park allowed the horse to graze, +and sat down beside his dying friend. About five o'clock Anderson faintly +intimated his desire of being mounted, and Park led forward the horse as +quickly as possible, in the hope of reaching Koomikoomi before night. +They had only got on about a mile when they heard a noise like the +barking of a huge mastiff, ending in a prolonged hiss like that of an +angry cat. Park thought at first that it was a large monkey, and observed +to Anderson, "what a bouncing fellow that must be," when another bark was +heard nearer, and then one close at hand accompanied with a growl. +Immediately they saw three large lions all abreast, bounding over the +long grass towards them. Park was apprehensive lest, if he allowed them +to come too near, and his piece should miss fire, the lions would spring +upon them. He therefore let go the bridle, and walked forward to meet +them. As soon as he came within long shot he fired at the centre one, but +did not seem to hit him; the lions halted, looked at each other, then +bounded away a few paces, and one of them again stopped and looked at +Park, who was busily loading his piece; at length, to his great joy, the +last of them slowly marched off among the bushes. About half a mile +farther on, another bark and growl proceeded from the bushes, quite close +to them. This was probably one of the lions who had continued to track +them; and Park, fearing that they would follow him till dark, when they +would have too many opportunities for springing secretly upon them, took +Anderson's call, and made as load a whistling and noise as he could. +Amidst the gullies, Park, after it became dark, could no longer +distinguish the footprints of the asses which marked the way along which, +the party had proceeded; and as the road became steep and dangerous, he +resolved to halt till morning. A fire was lighted, Anderson wrapt in his +cloak, while Park watched all night, in case the lions, whom he knew to +abound in the neighbourhood, should attack them. + +On the 13th August they arrived at the village of Doombila, where Park +was delighted to meet Karfa Taura, the kind friend to whom, in his former +journey, he owed so many obligations. This worthy person had undertaken a +six days journey to Bambakoo, on hearing that a person named Park, who +spoke the Mandingo language, was leading a party of white men through the +country; and he brought with him three slaves to aid them in getting +forward. But not finding Park there, he had proceeded other two days +journey to meet him. "He instantly recognised me," says Park, "and you +may judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing my old benefactor." + +Mr. Scott had died of fever at Koomikoomi, and Mr. Anderson was only +brought on by being carried in a litter by negroes, whom Park had hired +for that purpose. Disease had done its work fearfully among the little +band that had departed high in hope of tracing out the mysterious Niger; +and it seemed as if the few who had survived the toilsome and dangerous +journey would soon follow their comrades. There were to be other victims +yet. + +After having travelled twenty miles along a miserable road, they arrived +at Touiba on the 18th. Rain fell during the whole night, and as the +soldiers went to the village for shelter, Park had to keep watch alone. +The district abounded in corn, which rendered the task very troublesome, +for there is a law in Africa, that if an ass break a single stem of corn, +the proprietor may seize the animal, and if the owner refuse to indemnify +him for the loss, he may retain the ass, and though he cannot be sold or +employed, he may be killed and eaten--the people of Bambarra reckoning +ass-flesh a delightful repast. + +On the 19th August, they kept ascending the mountains to the south of +Touiba till three o'clock, when, having gained the summit of the ridge +which separates the Niger from the remote branches of the Senegal, Park +went on a little before, and, coming to the brow of the hill, he once +more saw the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain. At +half-past six o'clock that evening, they arrived at Bambakoo, where the +river becomes navigable, and pitched their tents under a tree near the +town. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +_Park on the Niger--His Death and Character_. + + +Park now reached the Niger, the point at which he had too fondly hoped +that all his difficulties would be at an end. He had conceived that, once +afloat upon its waters, he would be swiftly borne onwards towards the +termination of its course. But disaster had attended the enterprise +almost from its commencement; unexpected and formidable difficulties had +caused these flattering prospects to vanish as a dream. On the 29th May, +he had expected to reach the Niger in a month; there had since then +passed away eleven weeks of unparalleled hardship; the deadly influence +of climate, aggravated by the horrors of the rainy season, had caused the +greater part of his little band to fall, one after another, around him; +the few survivors were so wasted by sickness that, instead of proving an +assistance, they only added to his cares and anxieties. No wonder, then, +that the joy inspired by the sight of the Niger was transient, and that +fearful forebodings hanging upon his spirit should make him thus +write:--"After the fatiguing march, which we had experienced, the sight +of this river was no doubt pleasant, as it promised an end to, or, at +least, an alleviation of our toils. But, when I reflected, that +three-fourths of the soldiers had died on the march, and that, in +addition to our weakly state, we had no carpenters to build the boats in +which we proposed to prosecute our discoveries, the prospect appeared +somewhat gloomy." On the 22d August, Park hired a canoe to convey the +baggage to Maraboo, and himself embarked in it, along with Anderson. +Several rapids intervened, but the river was navigable over them, being +much swollen, by the rains. The Niger was here an English mile in +breadth, and at the rapids was spread to nearly two miles. They were +carried along, at the rate of five miles an hour, and on the following +day, arrived in safety at Maraboo. Here Isaaco was paid the stipulated +quantity of goods for having acted as guide, to which Park made an +additional present, also promising to give him all the asses and horses +when once a satisfactory agreement had been come to with the king of +Bambarra. Meantime, Isaaco was sent forward to Sego, to ask permission to +pass through the king's territories, and to build a boat for sailing down +the Niger. Some days elapsed before any answer was received; a report was +even current, that the king had with his own hand killed Isaaco, and had +avowed his resolution that every white man who should come within his +reach should share the same fate. During this period, Park was seized +with a severe attack of dysentery, which had carried off so many of his +party; he cured himself, however, by taking a powerful course of mercury. +His apprehensions were relieved by the arrival of the king's "singing +man," who is almost a sort of privy-councillor at the African courts, +declaring Mansong's high satisfaction with the presents conveyed to him +by Park's envoy, and inviting Park to Sego, to deliver them to his +majesty in person. Park was eager to depart, but the "singing man" had +contracted a strong liking to the beef and beer which Dooty Sokee ordered +to be liberally supplied to him, and six days elapsed before he would +consent to move. At last they embarked, and Park thus describes their +voyage:--"Nothing can be more beautiful than the views of this immense +river; sometimes as smooth as a mirror, at other times ruffled with a +gentle breeze, but at all times sweeping us along at the rate of six or +seven miles per hour." After passing Koolikorro and Yamina, Park arrived +at Samee, where he met with Isaaco, who told him that Mansong seemed +favourably disposed towards the expedition, but that, whenever he +attempted to enter into particulars, the king began to construct squares +and triangles with his fingers upon the sand, and during the whole time +that he spoke, seemed unwilling to withdraw his mind from these fits of +geometrical study, and showed no anxiety to have a personal interview +with the travellers. + +A few days afterwards, Park was visited by Modibinnie, the prime +minister, and four other officers of the court. It was intimated to him, +that Mansong had instructed him to inquire of Park the motives which had +brought him to Bambarra, and directed him to give an explanation of his +object next morning. Park addressed a judicious speech to them in the +Bambarran language, which seemed to produce the desired effect. He +alluded to the generous treatment he had received from Mansong in his +former journey through Bambarra, and then said, "You all know that the +white people are a trading people, and that all the articles of value +which the Moors and the people of Jinni bring to Sego are made by us. If +you speak of a good _gun_; who made it? the _white people_. We sell them +to the Moors; the Moors bring them to Tombuctoo, where they sell them at +a _higher rate_. The people of Tombuctoo sell them to the people of Jinni +at a still higher price, and the people of Jinni sell them to you. Now, +the king of the white people wishes to find out a way by which we may +bring our merchandise to you, and sell every thing at a much cheaper rate +than you now have them. For this purpose, if Mansong will permit me to +pass, I purpose sailing down the Joliba, to the place where it mixes with +the salt water; and if I find no rocks or danger in the way, the white +men's small vessels will come up and trade at Sego, if Mansong wishes +it." He concluded by advising them to keep this secret from the Moors, +who would certainly murder him were they aware of his purpose. Upon this, +Modibinnie replied, "We have heard what you have said. Your journey is a +good one, and may God prosper you in it. Mansong will protect you." +Park's presents were viewed with high admiration, particularly a +silver-plated tureen, and two double-barrelled guns; Modibinnie +declaring, that "the present was great, and worthy of Mansong." A wish +being also expressed to examine the remainder of his stores, Park was +reluctantly obliged to exhibit them. Two days afterwards, they returned +with a favourable message from Mansong, who promised them protection in +travelling through his dominions, and also gave them permission to build +a boat at Samee, Sego, Sansanding, or Jinni. Park chose Sansanding, as +being the most retired; and Mansong having asked what suitable return he +could make for such a handsome present, Park intimated that two large +canoes would answer his purpose best. + +In the voyage to Sansanding they suffered much from the intense heat; and +on the 2d October, two of the soldiers died. Sansanding is a place +carrying on a considerable traffic, and is said to contain eleven +thousand inhabitants. It has a large market-place, in the form of a +square, where the articles for sale are arranged on stalls, shaded by +mats from the heat of the sun. In each stall only a single article is +sold, the chief being beef, beer, beads, indigo, cloth, elephants teeth, +and slaves; besides which one side of the square is entirely devoted to +salt the staple commodity of the place. The value of the articles is paid +in cowries, the chief currency of central Africa. + +As Mansong did not seem likely to fulfil his promise soon, Park found it +necessary to provide, by the sale of some of his merchandise, a +sufficient supply of cowries. Accordingly he opened a stall in +Sansanding, and displayed for sale such an assortment of European goods +as had never before been seen in the quarter. He soon found abundance of +purchasers, as his goods were very superior in quality. But his success +had nearly proved fatal to him, for it excited the envy of the merchants +of the place, who, joining with the moors of Sego, endeavoured to tempt +Mansong, by large offers, to put the white men to death; but the king was +far too honourable to accept of this base proposal. But independently of +the danger of such attempts, the season was now too much advanced to +allow of any farther delay. The river was already beginning to subside, +and Park wished to commence his voyage, before the Moors residing in the +countries through which he would have to pass, should receive notice of +his expedition from their countrymen who showed such enmity to him at +Sego. He sent repeated remonstrances to Mansong. At length, on the 16th +October, Modibinnie came down with a canoe from the king; one half of +which being rotten, another half was sent for; but this also being +defective, another, almost as bad, was brought. This proved that his +friendly offices were to be confined merely to words. To add to Park's +difficulties, all the carpenters whom he had brought with him from +England had died, before their services were needed. But undismayed at +this most untoward occurrence, he determined to make the most of his +scanty materials. With the aid of a single soldier, by patching together +all the three, after eighteen days, he constructed a boat, forty feet in +length, and six in breadth, which he termed the schooner Joliba. Before +he left Sansanding, he met with a more severe misfortune than any he had +before experienced. His relation Mr. Anderson died, after a lingering +illness of four months. Park passes no studied eulogium upon his merits, +but speaks of him simply and sincerely, in a manner which shows the high +sense he felt of his merits. "October 28th, at a quarter past five +o'clock in the morning, my dear friend Mr. Alexander Anderson died, after +a sickness of four months. I feel much inclined to speak of his merits; +but as his worth was known only to a few friends, I will rather cherish +his memory in silence, and imitate his cool and steady conduct, than +weary my friends with a panegyric in which they cannot be supposed to +join. I shall only observe, that no event which took place during the +journey ever threw the smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr. +Anderson in the grave. I then felt myself as if left, a second time, +lonely and friendless amid the wilds of Africa." Mr. Anderson was buried +near one of the principal mosques at Sansanding, and the Dooty of the +place was present, as a mark of respect, at the interment. The party was +now reduced to five Europeans; Park, Lieutenant Martyn, and three +soldiers, one of whom was in a state of derangement. + +The schooner was ready by the 14th November, and Park only delayed +setting sail till Isaaco should return from Sego; when he came he advised +Park to set off instantly, lest the vigilance of the Moors should be +roused. Before departing he wrote letters to Mr. Anderson's father, Sir +Joseph Banks, Lord Camden, and Mrs. Park. As the two latter are +peculiarly interesting, we shall quote them. + +"To the Earl Camden, one of his Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State, +&c. &c. &c. + +"_On board of H.M. Schooner, Joliba, at anchor off Sansanding, 17th +November_ 1805. + +"MY LORD--I have herewith sent you an account of each day's proceedings +since we left Kayee. Many of the incidents related are in themselves +extremely trifling; but are intended to recall to my recollection (if it +pleases God to restore me again to my dear native land) other +particulars, illustrative of the manners and customs of the natives, +which would have swelled this bulky communication to a most unreasonable +size. + +"Your Lordship will recollect that I always spoke of the rainy season +with horror, as being extremely fatal to Europeans; and our journey from +the Gambia to the Niger will furnish a melancholy proof of it. + +"We had no contest whatever with the natives, nor was any one of us +killed by wild animals, or any other accidents; and yet I am sorry to +say, that of forty-four Europeans who left the Gambia in perfect health, +five only are at present alive, viz. three soldiers (one deranged in +mind), Lieutenant Martyn, and myself. + +"From this account I am afraid that your Lordship will be apt to consider +matters as in a very hopeless state; but I assure you I am far from +desponding. With the assistance of one of the soldiers, I have changed a +large canoe into a tolerably good schooner; on board of which I this day +hoisted the British flag, and shall set sail to the east, with the fixed +resolution to discover the termination of the Niger, or perish in the +attempt. I have heard nothing that I can depend on respecting the remote +course of this mighty stream; but I am more and more inclined to think, +that it can end nowhere but in the sea. + +"My dear friend Mr. Anderson, and likewise Mr. Scott are both dead. But +though all the Europeans who were with me should die, and though I were +myself half dead, I would still persevere; and if I could not succeed in +this object of my journey, I would at last die on the Niger. + +"If I succeed in the object of my journey, I expect to be in England in +the month of May or June, by way of the West Indies. + +"I request that your Lordship will have the goodness to permit my friend, +Sir Joseph Banks, to peruse the abridged account of my proceedings, and +that it may be preserved in case I should loose my papers.--I have the +honour to be," &c. + +"To Mrs. Park. + +"_Sansanding 19th November_ 1805. + +"It grieves me to the heart to write any thing that gives you uneasiness, +but such is the will of Him who _doeth all things well!_ Your brother +Alexander, my dear friend, is no more! He died of the fever at +Sansanding, on the morning of the 28th of October; for particulars, I +must refer you to your father. I am afraid that, impressed with a woman's +fears, and the anxieties of a wife, you may be led to consider my +situation as a great deal worse than it really is. It is true, my dear +friends Mr. Anderson and George Scott have both bid adieu to the things +of this world, and the greater part of the soldiers have died on the +march during the rainy season; but you may believe me, I am in good +health. The rains are completely over, and the healthy season has +commenced; so that there is no danger of sickness, and I have still a +sufficient force to protect me from any insult in sailing down the river +to the sea. + +"We have already embarked all our things, and shall sail the moment I +have finished this letter. I do not intend to stop, nor land anywhere, +till we reach the coast, which I suppose will be sometime in the end of +January. We shall then embark in the first vessel for England. If we have +to go round by the West Indies, the voyage will occupy three months +longer, so that we expect to be in England on the 1st of May. The reason +for our delay since we left the coast was the rainy season, which came on +us during the journey, and almost all the soldiers became affected with +the fever. + +"I think it not unlikely but I shall be in England before you receive +this. You may be sure that I feel happy at turning my face towards home. +We this morning have done with all intercourse with the natives, and the +sails are now hoisting for our departure for the coast." + +These were the last accounts received from Park and his brave companions. +Isaaco, who brought the two preceding letters, along with Park's Journal, +departed from Sansanding on the 17th November, and arrived at Pisania +with the intelligence, that Park, along with three white men (all of the +Europeans that had survived the journey,) three slaves, and Amadi +Fatouma, his new guide, set sail in their little vessel down the Niger. +In the following year unfavourable reports reached the British +settlements on that coast, brought by native merchants from the interior, +who declared that they had heard that Park and his companions had +perished. But as these accounts were vague, no credit was for some time +attached to them. But when months and years glided away without any +information concerning the expedition, it was feared that the tidings of +disaster were too true. The anxieties of the British public had followed +Park on his way, and they demanded that the mystery which hung over the +subject should be cleared up. At length, in the year 1810, Colonel +Maxwell, the governor of Senegal despatched Isaaco, Park's guide, upon a +mission into the interior, to collect all the information that he could +upon the matter. After twenty months' absence, Isaaco returned with full +confirmation of the reports concerning the fate of Park and his +companions. He brought with him a journal, containing a full report of +his proceedings, which bears internal evidence of fidelity and truth. His +information was derived from an unexceptionable quarter,--from Amadi +Fatouma, whom Park had hired to be his guide from Sansanding to Kashua. +Isaaco met this person at Modina, a town upon the banks of the Niger, a +little beneath Sansanding. Upon Isaaco's asking him if he knew what had +become of Park, he burst into tears, and said, "They are all dead!" On +Isaaco's inquiring the particulars, Amadi Fatouma, whom Park had, in his +letter to Sir Joseph Banks, described as a man of intelligence and +acuteness, produced a journal, written in Arabic, containing a narrative +of all he knew upon the subject. We shall give a summary of the principal +facts contained in this document, the veracity of which has been amply +confirmed by the researches of subsequent travellers. + +Amadi Fatouma accompanied Park, Lieutenant Martyn, three soldiers, and +three slaves, in the vessel, which had been built for the purpose of +descending the Niger; and which, though clumsy, was not ill-adapted for +inland navigation, being flat-bottomed, narrow, and schooner-rigged, so +that she could sail with any wind. After two days voyage, they arrived at +Jenne, to the chief of which place Park gave a present. They sailed on in +perfect safety till they came to the lake Dibbe, where three armed canoes +attacked them, but were beaten off. They were again attacked at Kabra or +Rakbara, the port of Tombuctoo, and also at Gouramo. In these encounters +several of the natives were slain. About this time one of the three +soldiers, who had been suffering under mental derangement, died. Their +course lay towards the kingdom of Haussa, and they were obliged to keep +constantly on their guard against the natives, who frequently sailed up +to them in armed canoes, and molested them from the banks of the river. +But fortunately they were not only well provided with arms and +ammunition, but had also laid in a large stock of provisions, before +leaving Bambarra, so that they were able to sail on without touching upon +the shore, so long as they dreaded the hostility of the inhabitants. At +Caffo some of the people on shore called out to the guide, "Amadi +Fatouma, how can you pass through our country without giving us +anything?" Accordingly, a few trifling articles were thrown to them. +After they had passed this place, the navigation became difficult and +intricate, the course of the little vessel being interrupted by shallows, +and by rocks almost closing up the river, and dividing it into narrow +channels. At length they anchored before Goronmo, where Amadi Fatouma +landed to purchase provisions. The chief of this place seemed well +disposed towards Park, for he warned him that a body of armed men were +posted on a high rock commanding the river, to cut off his little party. +Here Park remained all night; upon passing the place next morning he saw +a number of Moors, with horses and camels, but unarmed, from whom he +experienced no molestation. The guide was engaged to accompany them no +farther than the kingdom of Haussa. Before he departed, Park said to him, +"Now, Amadi, you are at the end of your journey. I engaged you to conduct +me here. You are going to leave me; but before you go, you must give me +the names of the necessaries of life, &c. in the language of the +countries through which I am going to pass." Amadi accordingly remained +two days longer, till they arrived at the kingdom of Yaour, where he +landed, with a musket and sabre for the Dooty, and some other presents; +and also some silver rings, flints, and gunpowder, as a present for the +king of Yaour, who resided at a little distance. The Dooty asked Park, +through Amadi, "Whether the white men intended to return to that place?" +Park answered that "he could not return any more." The Dooty acted in a +covetous and dishonourable manner, keeping back the king's present, and +retaining it for his own use. Amadi's narrative proves that this actually +caused Park's murder. After the schooner had gone on her way, Amadi slept +on shore, and then went to do homage to the king. When he entered the +king's residence, he found that the treacherous Dooty had already sent +two messengers to the court, to say that the white men had passed down +the river without giving any thing either to the Dooty or to the king, +and that Amadi was in league with them. The guide was immediately thrown +into prison. The king then dispatched an armed band to attack Park as he +passed the town of Boussa; a place peculiarly fitted for the murderous +deed, as there a ridge of rock almost entirely blocks up the river, +leaving only one channel, which Lander, who saw the spot, describes as +"not more than a stone-cast across." Upon this rock the king's force was +stationed. No sooner did Park and his companions attempt to pass this +point, than they were received with a shower of stones, lances, pikes, +and arrows. They defended themselves bravely, in spite of the +overwhelming numbers opposed to them. At length their efforts became +feebler, for they were soon exhausted. Two of the slaves at the stern of +the canoe were killed; nevertheless they threw every thing in the canoe +into the river, and kept firing. But as the canoe could no longer be kept +up against the current, they endeavoured to escape by swimming; Park took +hold of one of the white men and jumped into the river; Lieutenant Martyn +did the same, and they were all drowned in their attempt to reach the +land. The natives still discharged missiles at the remaining black in the +canoe; but he cried out for mercy, saying, "Stop throwing now, you see +nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself, therefore cease. Take me and +the canoe, but don't kill me." He was accordingly carried, with the +canoe, to the king. Amadi Fatouma was detained in irons three months, at +the expiry of which period he learned these facts from the slave. + +As a proof of the truth of this narrative, Isaaco brought with him the +only relic of Park which he was able to procure--a sword-belt, which the +king of Yaour had converted into a girth for his horse. This he obtained +through the instrumentality of a Poule, who bribed one of the king's +female slaves to steal it for him. + +When Isaaco's narrative first reached this country, many of its +statements were thought to be unwarranted by facts; but his veracity has +been fully proved by the researches of subsequent travellers. The +accuracy of his account of the spot where the melancholy catastrophe took +place is acknowledged by Captain Clapperton, who, in 1826, visited +Boussa. With some difficulty he drew from the natives an account of the +circumstances, which, however, they ascribed to the men of Boussa, +supposing Park to be a chief of the Felatahs, who had made a hostile +incursion into Soudan, and whom they shortly expected to attack +themselves. In 1830, John and Richard Lander saw the place, and thus +described it; "On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a +range of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water, +finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with great +impetuosity, overturning and carrying away every thing in its course." +They also discovered a _tohe_ or cloak, a cutlass, a double-barrelled +gun, a book of logarithms, and an invitation-card, which had belonged to +Park. They heard at one time that his journal was still in existence; but +it turned out that this was only a feint used by the king of Yaour to +entice them into his dominions, and fleece them of some of their +property; and there appeared no reason to doubt that the journal, the +loss of which there is much reason to regret, sunk in the waters of the +Niger. + +It seems unnecessary to enter into a lengthened estimate of the character +of Mungo Park. The biographical details which we have given, with his own +narrative of his first expedition, and the summary of the leading events +of his second, will have sufficiently enabled our readers to judge for +themselves. But we cannot quit the subject without a few brief remarks, +having frequently, while writing these pages, had our attention called +off from the events themselves to him who was the principal actor in +them. Amongst the numerous adventurers whose spirit of research has led +them into unknown countries, it would be difficult to find one better +qualified in every way than Park was. His frame was admirably adapted for +enduring toil. He was tall and muscular, and possessed great strength and +agility. In his first African journey he traversed three thousand miles, +for the most part on foot, through an unknown and barbarous country, +exposed to continued unremitting toil, to the perils of the way, to +storm, hunger, pestilence, and the attacks of wild beasts and savage +natives, supported by a dauntless spirit, and by a fortitude which never +forsook him. Amply did he possess the indispensable qualities of a +traveller, keenness of observation, mental energy, unflinching +perseverance, an ardent temperament, corrected and restrained by a cool +and sagacious judgment. Amid danger and disaster his character shone with +great lustre. It only remains to be added, that he was an exemplary model +in his faithful discharge of all the relative duties--a good son, +husband, and parent. + +We entirely concur in the following observations of a writer in the +Edinburgh Review: "We bid a mournful farewell to the sufferings and +exploits of this illustrious man;--sufferings borne with an unaffected +cheerfulness of magnanimity, which must both exalt and endear him to all +who are capable of being touched with what is generous and noble in +character,--and exploits performed with a mildness and modesty and +kindness of nature, not less admirable than the heroic firmness and +ardour with which they were conjoined. In Mungo Park, we are not afraid +to say, that the world lost a great man--one who was well qualified, and +indeed has been, one of its benefactors. His travels are interesting, not +merely to those who care about Africa, or the great schemes to his zeal +for which he fell a martyr, but to all who take delight in the spectacle +of unbounded courage and heroic ardour, unalloyed with any taint of +ferocity, selfishness, or bigotry." + +Park left behind him three sons and a daughter. Mungo, the eldest, became +an assistant-surgeon in India, and soon after died. Thomas, the second, +resembled his father both in appearance and disposition, and early +cherished the intention of obtaining certain information as to his +father's fate. He was a midshipman on board the Sybille; and having +obtained permission from the Lords of the Admiralty, set out on an +expedition into the interior. He landed at Acra in June 1827; but arrived +there only to die. Archibald, the youngest son, is a lieutenant in the +Bengal service. Park's daughter is the wife of Henry Wetter Meredith, +Esq. of Pentry-Bichen, Denbighshire. Park's widow is still living. + +The following beautiful tribute to Mungo Park's memory appeared in +Blackwood's Magazine:-- + +_The Negro's Lament for Mungo Park_. + + 1. + + Where the wild Joliba + Rolls his deep waters, + Sate at their evening toil + Afric's dark daughters: + Where the thick mangroves + Broad shadows were flinging, + Each o'er her lone loom + Bent mournfully singing-- + "Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger! + + 2. + + "Through the deep forest + Fierce lions are prowling; + 'Mid thickets entangling, + Hyenas are howling; + There should he wander, + Where danger lurks ever; + To his home, where the sun sets, + Return shall he never. + Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger! + + 3. + + "The hands of the Moor + In his wrath do they bind him? + Oh! sealed is his doom + If the savage Moor find him. + More fierce than hyenas, + Through darkness advancing, + Is the curse of the Moor, + And his eyes fiery glancing! + Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger! + + 4. + + "A voice from the desert! + My wilds do not hold him; + Pale thirst doth not rack, + Nor the sand-storm enfold him. + The death-gale pass'd by + And his breath failed to smother, + Yet ne'er shall he wake + To the voice of his mother + Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger! + + 5. + + "O loved of the lotus + Thy waters adorning, + Pour, Joliba! pour + Thy full streams to the morning? + The halcyon may fly + To thy wave as her pillow; + But wo to the white man + Who trusts to thy billow! + Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger! + + 6. + + "He launched his light bark, + Our fond warnings despising, + And sailed to the land + Where the day-beams are rising. + His wife from her bower + May look forth in her sorrow, + But he shall ne'er come + To her hope of to-morrow! + Alas! for the white man! o'er deserts a ranger, + No more shall we welcome the white-bosomed stranger!" + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +_Tuckey, Peddie, and Gray's Expeditions_. + + +The fatal termination of Park's second journey by no means damped the +ardent desire of acquiring fresh knowledge concerning the interior of +Africa. The question as to whether the Niger finally proved to be +identical with the Congo, was undetermined; and Government resolved to +organize a large expedition for the purpose of deciding it. To attain +this object, there were to be two parties sent out, one of which was to +descend the Niger, and the other to ascend the Congo or Zaire river; and +if the hypothesis proved to be true, it was expected that both would form +a junction at a certain point. The expedition excited much interest, and +from the scale on which it was planned, and the talents of the officers +engaged in it, seemed to have a fair promise of success. + +Captain Tuckey, an experienced officer, was to command the Congo +expedition; his party consisted of fifty seamen, marines, and mechanics, +with several individuals skilled in the various branches of natural +history. They sailed from Deptford in the middle of February 1816, and +arrived at Malemba about the end of June. The mafouk, or king's chief +minister of the place, gave them at first a cordial reception, but soon +showed hostility, when he learnt that they had no intention of purchasing +slaves. Soon after, they entered the Congo, which much disappointed their +expectations, on account of the shallowness of its channel. The river, +however, was then at a low ebb; its banks were marshy, and its waters +moved slowly and silently between forests of mangrove trees. The air was +filled with the discordant croak of innumerable parrots, diversified +somewhat by the notes of a few singing birds. As they proceeded, the +river, instead of diminishing, seemed to increase in volume. At Embomma, +much interest was excited among the natives, by the discovery that their +cook's mate was the son of a native prince. His arrival was the signal +for general rejoicing, and the enraptured father hastened to welcome his +heir. During the night the village resounded with music and songs. "Next +day the ci-devant cook appeared in all the pomp of African royalty, with +a tarnished silk embroidered coat, a black glazed hat with an enormous +feather, and a silk sash; he was carried in a hammock by two slaves, with +an umbrella over his head." + +On the 27th July, Captain Tuckey was introduced to the Chenoo or +sovereign, who sat in full divan, with his councillors around him, +beneath a spreading tree, from the branches of which were suspended two +of his enemies' skulls. He was dressed in a most gaudy fashion. He could +not be made to comprehend the objects of the expedition, and for two +hours reiterated the two questions,--"Are you come to trade?" and "Are +you come to make war?" After he had exacted a promise that they would not +interfere with the slave-trade, a keg of rum was emptied with great +satisfaction by the monarch and his attendants. + +On either bank of the river were ridges of rocky hills, which rapidly +became more and more contracted; at length they came to a cataract, where +its channel was almost entirely blocked up by the fall of huge fragments +of granite. The boats could go no farther, nor could they be carried over +the hills and deep ravines. The party were compelled to proceed by land, +and without a guide. They had frequently to sleep in the open air, the +evil effect of which soon became apparent in the sickness of the party. +At length, just when their progress became easier, on account of the +country being much more level, their health was so much injured, that +several of the principal members of the expedition were compelled to +return to the ship. Captain Tuckey, who had suffered much from fever, +felt a like necessity. At this crisis the baggage canoe sunk with the +greater part of their utensils on board; the natives continually annoyed +them, and seized every opportunity of plundering. They had great +difficulty in returning to the shore. Most of the naturalists died of +fever; and Captain Tuckey was cut off after reaching the coast. + +The Niger expedition, consisting of 100 men, and 200 animals, was +commanded by Major Peddie. They sailed from the Senegal, and landed at +Kacundy. Major Peddie died before they set out, and the command devolved +on Captain Campbell. Before they had proceeded 150 miles from Kacundy, +the chief of the Foulahs obstructed their progress much, under pretence +of a war. A long time was lost in fruitless negociations; during which, +most of the beasts of burden died. They were compelled to return; and +Captain Campbell soon after died from vexation and disappointment. + +In 1818, Captain Gray attempted to proceed by Park's route along the +Gambia; but being detained by the chief of Bondou, came back as soon as +he was released. + +Undismayed by these repeated failures, the British Government still +endeavoured to promote the cause of African discovery. The Bashaw of +Tripoli, who had great influence with the inhabitants of Bornou, and the +other great African states, seemed favourable to the object, and promised +his protection. Mr. Ritchie was sent out, accompanied by Lieutenant Lyon +of the navy. In March 1819, they reached Fezzan. The sultan, who had +acquired great wealth by the slave-trade, deluded them with promises of +protection. Here they were detained by illness the whole summer. Mr. +Ritchie died on the 20th November 1819: and Mr. Lyon, after collecting a +little information concerning Fezzan, resolved to retrace his steps. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +_Denham and Clapperton's Journey_. + + +Government resolved to send an expedition to Tripoli, across the Great +Desert, to Bornou, confiding in the friendly disposition of the Bashaw of +Tripoli, whose influence extended over a large part of Central Africa. +Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton of the Navy, and Dr. Oudney, a naval +surgeon, who possessed considerable knowledge of natural history, were +selected for this mission. They reached Tripoli about the middle of +November 1821, and were presented to the Bashaw, whom they found sitting +cross-legged on a carpet, surrounded by his guards; he ordered +refreshments to be brought, and afterwards invited them to attend a +hawking party. + +On the 8th April 1822, they arrived at Mourzouk, and were civilly +received by the potentate of that place, who however did not shew any +great zeal in forwarding their arrangements. After various delays, Major +Denham returned to Tripoli to remonstrate with the Bashaw; and not +getting any satisfactory reply from him, set sail for England; but was +stopped at Marseilles, by a vessel sent by the Bashaw, to announce that +an agreement had been entered into with Boo Khaloom, a wealthy merchant, +who intended to travel across the Desert, and had promised to escort the +travelers. + +Boo Khaloom was a favourable specimen of that peculiar race, the Arab +caravan-merchants. The Arab trader travels with his merchandise over the +greater part of a continent; his home is wherever the human foot can +wander; he is exposed to the inhospitable desert and the burning sky. He +must be prepared to defend his property against the roving bands of +plunderers, and proceed at the head of a detachment of troops. Confiding +in the strength of his forces, and in reprisal of attacks, he is too +often tempted to add the gains of robbery to those of merchandise. He is +a slave dealer, and organizes expeditions to seize his unfortunate +victims. As the value of his goods is much heightened by conveyance +across the desert, in a few successful journeys he may acquire great +wealth and influence. He is a staunch Mahometan, and enslaves only the +enemies of the Prophet. He is fond of display, and when his wealth +abounds, emulates almost princely splendour. Boo Khaloom had some +virtue,--he was free from bigotry, and even humane for a slave-dealer, +and he was of a generous and honourable nature. + +Major Denham travelled along a dreary route till he came to Sockna, into +which place Boo Khaloom resolved to enter in becoming state. He rode at +the head of his party on a beautiful white Tunisian horse, the saddle and +housings of which were ornamented with gold, attired in robes of rich +silk covered with embroidery. On the 30th December, Major Denham arrived +at Mourzouk, and was distressed to find his two companions much +indisposed. They set out from Mourzouk along with the caravan; the party +consisted of 210 Arabs, commanded by their respective chiefs, who cheered +the monotony of the way by tales and songs. The road lay along a sandy +uneven soil highly impregnated with salt, the track being worn down by +the footsteps of caravans. In these dreary regions no sound either of +insect or of bird was heard. After they left Mourzouk, the eye was +relieved at great distances, by the sight of small towns, situated in the +oases, or watered valleys, the lofty palm-trees of which served to guide +them. But these became gradually fewer, and after leaving Bilma, they +travelled for thirteen days without coming to any resting-place. During +the day the sun beat intensely upon them; but the nights were still and +beautiful. Cool and refreshing breezes played around the encampment, and +the moon and stars shone with great brilliancy. A soft couch was found by +removing the--sand to the depth of a few inches. + +Soon after the desert presented horrors of a peculiar kind. The ground +was strewed with skeletons, sometimes fifty or sixty together. Fragments +of flesh and hair were still upon some of them. They were slaves whom +their conquerors had abandoned on finding their provisions run short. Two +female skeletons were found twined together,--they had expired in each +other's arms. One day Major Denham was roused from a reverie, by the +sound caused by a skeleton crackling under his horses hoofs. The Arabs +aimed blows at the limbs with their muskets, jesting at these melancholy +remains of mortality. + +Their road lay between the two tribes of Tibboos and Tuaricks, and they +passed through the villages and settlements of the former. The Tibboos +carry on a traffic between Mourzouk and Bournou, and subsist chiefly on +camel's milk. They are of a gay disposition, and delight in dancing and +singing. Though black, they have not the negro features; and Denham says +that the females have some pretensions to beauty. They live in constant +dread of the Tuaricks, who often make hostile ravages upon them. The +unresisting and peaceful Tibboos, on their approach fly with their goods +to the summit of the rocks. The Tuaricks, again, in spite of their +constant feuds with the Tibboos, are hospitable and kind to strangers. +Though a wandering horde, and professing to look with contempt on all who +cultivate the soil, they are yet the only African tribe who possess an +alphabet; and they inscribe their records upon the faces of dark rocks +and stones. + +About a mile from the little town of Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos, +they came to a spring of water surrounded by green turf, the last spot of +verdure they saw for thirteen days. They passed over loose hillocks of +sand, into which the camels sank knee-deep. Some of these hills were from +twenty to sixty feet in height, with almost perpendicular sides. The +drivers use great care as the animals slide down these banks; they hang +with all their weight upon the tails, to steady their descent; otherwise +they would fall forward, and cast their burdens over their heads. Dark +sand-stone ridges form the only landmarks among these billows of sand. + +After a fortnight's travelling, vegetation once more appeared, in the +form of scattered clumps of herbage and stunted shrubs, the leaves of +which were most acceptable to the camels. Herds of gazelles crossed the +path, hyenas abounded, and the footsteps of the ostrich were perceived. +As they went on, the face of the country improved, the valleys became +greener, and the colocynth and the kosom, with its red flowers, were in +full bloom, "The freshness of the air, with the melody of the songsters +that were perched among the creeping plants, whose flowers diffused an +aromatic odour, formed a delightful contrast to the desolate region +through which they had passed." In the neighbourhood was a tribe--of the +Gunda Tiboos, who supported themselves and their horses chiefly on +camels' milk. The chief of this people was quite delighted by a coarse +scarlet robe and a small, mirror with which he was presented. During the +march, the natives committed several thefts upon the caravan, the members +of which in their turn could hardly be prevented from making reprisals. +At length they reached Lari, in the province of Kanem, the most northern +part of Bornou,--a place containing two thousand inhabitants, who dwell +in huts constructed of rushes, with conical tops. They had now reached an +important stage on their journey; for "the great lake Tchad, glowing with +the golden rays of the sun in its strength," appeared within a mile of +the elevated spot on which they stood. Next morning, Major Denham +hastened to the banks of this great inland sea. The shore was covered +with multitudes of water-fowl, which were so tame that they were not the +least alarmed by his presence. The lake swarmed with fish, which the +females caught easily by wading in a short way, and then driving them +before them to land. + +They travelled by the margin of the lake, and came to a large town called +Woodie, which was inhabited by an exclusively negro population. In a few +days, an invitation was sent to them to visit the shiek of Bornou, at +Kouka. On their way, they passed the Yeou, a stream about fifty yards +broad, which flows into the lake. Two canoes, constructed of planks +fastened together with cords, and capable of holding about thirty men in +each, lay upon the banks, for the transport of goods and passengers. The +camels and horses swam across with their heads tied to the boats. + +Three days afterwards, they arrived at Kouka, where the shiek of Bornou +resided. As they emerged from the forest which skirts the town, they saw +a large body of cavalry drawn up in lines on each side of the road, as +far as the eye could reach. As the Arab troops approached, the horsemen +of Bornou raised loud shouts, accompanied by the clamour of their rude +martial instruments. They then, in detached troops, galloped up to the +Arabs, and suddenly wheeled about, crying, "Blessing! blessing! sons of +your country! sons of your country!" shaking the spears over their heads. +The Bornouese crowded close upon them, and almost prevented them from +moving, till Barca Gana, the shiek's generalissimo, rode up upon a fine +Mandara steed, and ordered his troops to fall back. After some delay, +they were ushered into the presence of the chief of Bornou. He sat upon a +carpet, in a small dark room, which was ornamented with weapons of war, +and was plainly attired in a blue gown and shawl turban. He seemed to be +about forty-six years of age; his countenance was open, and conveyed the +idea of mildness and benevolence. He inquired, "What was their object in +coming?" They answered, "To see the country, and to give an account of +its inhabitants, produce, and appearance, as their sultan was desirous of +knowing every part of the globe." He replied that they were welcome, and +that he would give them every facility. He assigned to them some huts, +which they had no sooner entered than they were much incommoded by crowds +of visitors. They were most liberally supplied with provisions; besides +bullocks, camel loads of wheat and rice, butter, and honey, they had a +daily allowance of rice mixed with meat, and paste made of barley flour. +On a second interview, they delivered to the sheik the present intended +for him; he examined the gun and brace of pistols attentively, and seemed +much pleased with them. He was delighted when he was told that his fame +had reached the king of England, and said, "This must be in consequence +of our having defeated the Begharmies;" and one of his most distinguished +chiefs asked, "Did he ever hear of me?" "Certainly," was the reply; and +all the court exclaimed, "Oh, the king of England must be a great man!" +The sheik was much gratified by the present of a musical snuff-box, of +which he had previously expressed strong admiration. The whole populace +were afterwards gratified by a discharge of sky-rockets. + +On the 2d March, the travellers set out to Birnie, to visit the sultan. +At this court it was the fashion for the grandees to emulate each other +in rotundity, and when the desired result could not be attained by high +feeding, they used wadding, and in spite of the sultry climate, put on a +vast number of garments, one over another. Surrounded by three hundred of +these great men, sat the sultan, enclosed in a species of cane basket +covered with silk, his features scarcely discernible beneath his huge +turban. The presents were received in silence. + +The travellers departed for Kouka, passing Angornou, a city containing +thirty thousand inhabitants. The market of Angornou is held in the open +air, and is attended by immense crowds; the principal articles sold are +grain, bullocks, sheep, and fowls, together with amber, coral, and brass; +also young lions, which are kept as domestic pets. + +The kingdom of Bornou is of great extent. Its chief physical feature is +the lake Tchad, which is about 200 miles in length, and 150 in breadth, +and is one of the largest bodies of fresh water in the world, second only +in extent to the great inland seas of America. Its dimensions vary +according to the season; and during the rains, many miles of territory +previously dry, are submerged. This tract, covered with dense thickets, +and rank grass twice the height of a man, is the habitation of wild +beasts, "abounding with elephants of enormous dimensions, beneath whose +reclining bodies large shrubs, and even young trees were seen crushed; +tenanted also by lions, panthers, leopards, large flocks of hyenas, and +snakes of enormous bulk." These monsters of the wood are driven from +their fastnesses by the advancing waters, and seek their prey among the +dwellings of the natives. "At this period, travellers, and the persons +employed in watching the harvest, often fall victims; nay, the hyenas +have been known to carry walled towns by storm, and devour the herds +which had been driven into them for shelter." + +The soil of Bornou is fertile, and though only turned up by the hoe, +yields pretty good crops of the small grain called _gussub_. Vast herds +of cattle abound. The only manufacture in which the people can be said to +excel, is that of cotton cloth died blue with indigo; pieces of which +constitute the current coin. The natives have the negro features in their +full deformity; they are simple, good-natured, ignorant, and fond of +wrestling and gaming. The military force is almost entirely composed of +cavalry, many of whom are well mounted, and defended by coats of mail. + +Boo Khaloom had brought with him an extensive assortment of goods, which +he found he could not sell at Bornou. He therefore wished to dispose of +them at Soudan; but his followers were most anxious that he should make a +warlike excursion to the south, for the purpose of driving in a large +body of slaves. He reluctantly, and against his better judgment, +consented to proceed to the mountains of Mandara, and Major Denham, +against the advice of the sheikh, resolved to accompany the party, whose +numbers and strength were augmented by a large body of Bornou cavalry, +under the command of Barca Gana, the chief general. + +They set out along an ascending road, which wound through a fertile +country, and passed several populous towns. The way was rough, and +overhung by the branches of the prickly _tulloh_, so that pioneers had to +go before with long poles to clear away obstructions. The troops sang the +praises of Barca Gana, crying, "Who is in battle like the rolling of +thunder? Barca Gana. In battle, who spreads terror around him like the +buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana." They soon reached the kingdom and +mountains of Mandara. In the valley are situated eight large and a number +of smaller towns, which are overhung by the mountains, the recesses of +which are inhabited by a numerous and barbarous tribe, called Kerdies or +Pagans, whom the Arabs and Bornouese consider as only fit to be enslaved. +The dwellings of this unfortunate people were visible in clusters upon +the sides and tops of the hills which tower above the Mandingo capital. +"The fires which were visible in the different nests of these +unfortunates, threw a glare upon the bold peaks and bluff promontories of +granite rock by which they were surrounded, and produced a picturesque +and somewhat awful appearance." The inhabitants of these wild regions +were clothed in the spoils of the chace, and subsisted chiefly on wild +fruits, honey, and fish. They knew the object of this expedition, and so +soon as they saw the advance of the hostile army, parties came down with +peace-offerings of leopard skins, honey, and slaves. The sultan of +Mandara used all his influence to persuade Boo Khaloom to attack some +strong Fellatah posts, and the latter unfortunately consented; his +followers were eager for the attack, the prospect of booty being held out +to them. + +After passing through a verdant plain, they entered the heart of the +mountains, and every point as they advanced, disclosed to them heights of +rugged magnificence. The valleys were clothed with bright and luxuriant +verdure, and flowering parasitical plants wound along the trunks of +spreading trees. This beautiful spot, however, abounded in scorpions and +panthers. Next day they approached the Fellatah town of Dirkulla. Boo +Khaloom and his Arabs, with Barca Gana, and one hundred of his bravest +warriors, began the attack, while the rest hung behind, awaiting the +issue of the conflict. The Arabs gallantly carried two posts, and killed +many of the enemy. But the undaunted Fellatahs recovering from their +surprise, entrenched themselves within a strongly fortified place farther +up the hills, called Musfeia, in front of which were swamps and +palisades. The greater part of the soldiers remained without the range of +the arrows of the Fellatahs; who, being joined by fresh troops, and +seeing that their assailants were few in number, advanced to the attack, +discharging showers of poisoned arrows. Most of the Arabs were hurt; +their horses staggered under them; Boo Khaloom and his charger received +wounds which afterwards proved to be mortal. The Fellatah horse, taking +advantage of their confusion, dashed in amongst them; "and the chivalry +of Bornou and Mandara spurred their steeds to the most rapid flight." +Major Denham found himself in a desperate predicament. As the account of +his escape is one of the most interesting narratives of personal +adventure which we have ever read, we shall extract it in his own +words:-- + +"I now for the first time, as I saw Barca Gana on a fresh horse, lamented +my own folly in so exposing myself, badly prepared as I was for +accidents. If my horse's wounds were from poisoned arrows, I felt that +nothing could save me: however there was not much time for reflection. We +instantly became a flying mass, and plunged, in great disorder, into the +wood we had but a few hours before moved through with order, and very +different feelings. I had got a little to the westward of Barca Gana, in +the confusion which took place on our passing the ravine which had been +left just on our rear, and where upwards of 100 of the Bornouese were +speared by the Fellatahs, and was following at a round gallop the steps +of one of the Mandara eunuchs, who I observed kept a good look out, his +head being constantly turned over his left shoulder, with, a face +expressive of the greatest dismay--when the cries behind of the Fellatah +horse pursuing, made us both quicken our paces. The spur however had the +effect of incapacitating my beast altogether, as the arrow I found +afterwards had reached the shoulder bone, and in passing over some rough +ground he stumbled and fell. Almost before I was on my legs, the +Fellatahs were upon me; I had however, kept hold of the bridle, and +seizing a pistol from the holsters, I presented it at two of the +ferocious savages, who were pressing me with their spears: they instantly +went off; but another who came on me more boldly, just as I was +endeavouring to mount, received the contents somewhere in his left +shoulder, and again I was enabled to place my foot in the stirrup. +Remounted, I again pushed my retreat; I had not, however, proceeded many +hundred yards, when my horse again came down with such violence as to +throw me against a tree at a considerable distance; and alarmed at the +horses behind him, he quickly got up and escaped, leaving me on foot and +unarmed. + +"The eunuch and his four followers were here butchered, after a very +slight resistance, and stripped within a few yards of me: their cries +were dreadful; and even now, the feelings of that moment are fresh in my +memory. My hopes of life were too faint to deserve the name. I was almost +instantly surrounded, and incapable of making the least resistance, as I +was unarmed, was as speedily stript; and whilst attempting first to save +my shirt and then my trowsers, I was thrown on the ground. My pursuers +made several thrusts at me with their spears, that badly wounded my hands +in two places, and slightly my body, just under my ribs, on the right +side. Indeed, I saw nothing before me but the same cruel death I had seen +unmercifully inflicted on the few who had fallen into the power of those +who now had possession of me; and they were only prevented from murdering +me, in the first instance, I am persuaded, by the fear of injuring the +value of my clothes, which appeared to them a rich booty,--but it was +otherwise ordained. + +"My shirt was now absolutely torn off my back, and I was left perfectly +naked. When my plunderers began to quarrel for the spoil, the idea of +escape came like lightning across my mind, and without a moment's +hesitation or reflection, I crept under the belly of the horse nearest +me, and started as fast as my legs could carry me for the thickest part +of the wood. Two of the Fellatahs followed, and I ran on to the eastward, +knowing that our stragglers would be in that direction, but still almost +as much afraid of friends as foes. My pursuers gained on me, for the +prickly underwood not only obstructed my passage, but tore my flesh +miserably; and the delight with which I saw a mountain stream gliding +along at the bottom of a deep ravine cannot be imagined. My strength had +almost left me, and I seized the young branches issuing from the stump of +a large tree which overhung the ravine, for the purpose of letting myself +down into the water, as the sides were precipitous; when under my hand, +as the branch yielded to the weight of my body, a large _liffa_, the +worst kind of serpent this country produces, rose from its coil as if in +the very act of striking. I was horror-struck, and deprived for a moment +of all recollection--the branch slipped from my hand, and I tumbled +headlong into the water beneath; this shock, however, revived me, and +with three strokes of my arms I reached the opposite bank, which with +difficulty I crawled up, and then, for the first time, felt myself safe +from my pursuers. + +"I now saw horsemen through the trees still farther to the east, and +determined on reaching them if possible, whether friends or enemies; and +the feelings of gratitude and joy with which I recognized Barca Gana and +Boo Khaloom, with about six Arabs, although they also were pressed +closely by a party of the Fellatahs, was beyond description. The guns and +pistols of the Arab shiekhs kept the Fellatahs in check, and assisted in +some measure the retreat of the footmen, I hailed them with all my might, +but the noise and confusion which prevailed from the cries of those who +were falling under the Fellatah spears, the cheers of the Arabs rallying, +and their enemies pursuing, would have drowned all attempts to make +myself heard, had not Maramy, the shiekh's negro, seen and known me at a +distance. To this man I was indebted for my second escape; riding up to +me, he assisted me to mount behind him, while the arrows whistled over +our heads; and we then galloped off to the rear as fast as his wounded +horse could carry us. After we had gone a mile or two, and the pursuit +had something cooled, in consequence of all the baggage having been +abandoned to the enemy. Boo Khaloom rode up to me, and desired one of the +Arabs to cover me with a bornouse. This was a most welcome relief, for +the burning sun had already begun to blister my neck and back, and gave +me the greatest pain. Shortly after, the effects of the poisoned wound in +his foot caused our excellent friend to breathe his last. Maramy +exclaimed, 'Look, look! Boo Khaloom is dead!' I turned my head, almost as +great an exertion as I was capable of, and saw him drop from the horse +into the arms of his favourite Arab; he never spoke after. They said he +had only swooned; there was no water, however, to revive him, and about +an hour after, when we came to Makkeray, he was past the reach of +restoratives. + +"About the time Boo Khaloom dropped, Barca Gana ordered a slave to bring +me a horse, from which he had just dismounted, being the third that had +been wounded under him in the course of the day. His wound was in the +chest. Maramy cried, "_Sidi rais!_ do not mount him, he will die." In a +moment, for only a moment was given me, I decided on remaining with +Maramy. Two Arabs, panting with fatigue, then seized the bridle, mounted, +and pressed their retreat. In less than half an hour he fell to rise no +more, and both the Arabs were butchered before they could recover +themselves. Had we not now arrived at the water, as we did, I do not +think it possible that I could have supported the thirst by which I was +consuming. I tried several times to speak in reply to Maramy's directions +to hold tight, when we came to breaks or inequalities in the ground; but +it was impossible, and a painful straining at the stomach and throat was +the only effect produced by the effort. + +"On coming to the stream, the horses, with blood gushing from their +nostrils, rushed into the shallow water, and, letting myself down from +behind Maramy, I knelt down amongst them, and seemed to imbibe new life +by copious draughts of the muddy beverage which I swallowed. Of what +followed I have no re-collection, Maramy told me afterwards that I +staggered across the stream, which was not above my hips, and fell down +at the foot of a tree on the other side. About a quarter of an hour's +halt took place here for the benefit of stragglers, and to tie poor Boo +Khaloom's body on a horse's back, at the end of which Maramy awoke me +from a deep sleep, and I found my strength wonderfully increased: not so, +however, our horse, for he had become stiff, and could scarcely move. As +I learned afterwards, a conversation had taken place about me while I +slept, which rendered my obligations to Maramy still greater. He had +reported to Barca Gana the state of his horse, and the impossibility of +carrying me on, when the chief, irritated by his losses and defeat, as +well as at my having refused his horse, by which means, he said, it had +come by its death, replied, 'Then leave him behind. By the head of the +Prophet! Believers enough have breathed their last today. What is there +extraordinary in a Christian's death?' My old antagonist Malem Chadily +replied, 'No. God has preserved him, let us not forsake him!' Maramy +returned to the tree, and said, 'His heart told him what to do.' He awoke +me, assisted me to mount, and we moved on as before." + +In this fatal conflict forty-five of the Arabs, besides their chief, +fell. Most of the rest were wounded, and had lost their camels, and been +stripped of their property. They were obliged to depend upon the bounty +of Barca Gana for subsistence. + +Major Denham also accompanied the Bornou troops on an expedition against +the Mungas. He passed through what had been a fertile country, but which +was then depopulated by war. They saw thirty ruined towns, whose +inhabitants had been carried away as slaves. They passed on their route +old Birnie, the ancient capital of the country, the ruins of which +covered six miles; and also Gambarou, which was dignified by the ruins of +a palace and two mosques. The Munga warriors, struck with dismay at the +approach of so strong a force, submitted, and came in hundreds to the +camp, falling prostrate upon the ground, and casting sand upon their +heads. + +On the 23rd of January, 1824, Major Denham, accompanied by Mr. Toole, who +had travelled across the desert to join the expedition, resolved to visit +the Shary, a wide river flowing into the lake Tchad, through the kingdom +of Loggun. When they came to Showy, they saw the river, which is a noble +stream, half a mile broad; they sailed a considerable length down this +river, the banks of which were adorned with forests, and fragrant with +the odour of numerous aromatic plants. They traced it forty miles, and +saw it flowing "in great beauty and majesty past the high walls of the +capital of Loggun." This city was handsome and spacious, having a street +as wide as Pall Mall, on either side of which were large habitations, +with enclosures in front. Here Denham was introduced to the sultan. After +passing through several dark rooms, he was conducted to a large square +court filled with people. A lattice-work of cane, before which two slaves +fanned the air, was removed, and "something alive was discovered on a +carpet, wrapped up in silk robes, with the head enveloped in shawls, and +nothing but the eyes visible. The whole court prostrated themselves, and +poured sand on their heads, while eight frumfrums, and as many horns, +blew a loud and very harsh-sounding salute." The presents were received +in almost perfect silence, the potentate only muttering a few +unintelligible words. The people manufactured cloth of a very superior +kind, and iron coins were in circulation. The females, though handsome +and intelligent, were inquisitive and dishonest; and, upon the whole, the +natives were of a jealous and revengeful disposition. The country is +fertile, abounding in grain and cattle; but the atmosphere is filled with +tormenting insects. + +[Illustration: Manner of Fishing in the River Yewn] + +Major Denham passed the river Yeou, and describes the mode of fishing +pursued by the inhabitants on its banks, from which they derive a very +considerable source of revenue. "They make very good nets of a twine spun +from a perennial plant called _kalimboa_. The implements for fishing are +ingenious, though simple: two large gourds are nicely balanced, and then +fixed on a large stem of bamboo, at the extreme ends; the fisherman +launches this on the river, and places himself astride between the +gourds, and thus he floats with the stream, and throws his net. He has +also floats of cane, and weights of small leather bags of sand: he beats +up against the stream, paddling with his hands and feet, previous to +drawing the net, which, as it rises in the water, he lays before him as +he sits; and with a sort of mace, which he carries for the purpose, the +fish are stunned by a single blow. His drag finished, the fish are taken +out, and thrown into the gourds, which are open at the top, to receive +the produce of his labor. These wells being filled, he steers for the +shore, unloads, and again returns to the sport." + +On this journey Mr. Toole sank under disease and fatigue. He was interred +in a deep grave, overhung by a clump of mimosas in full blossom. Above +was placed a high pile of prickly thorns, to protect his remains from the +hyenas. + +Mr. Tyrwhit, who had been sent out by Government, joined the party on the +20th May. Major Denham and this gentleman accompanied Barca Gana on an +expedition, against the La Sala Shouas, a kind of "amphibious shepherds," +who dwell in a number of green islands on the south-eastern shores of the +Lake Tchad, the channels between which are so shallow, that, in spite of +the bottom being filled with mud and holes, the experienced traveller can +pass them in safety. Here Barca Gana, though at the head of 1400 men, was +inclined to pause; but his troops could not be restrained when they saw +the flocks and herds of the La Salas feeding peacefully on the opposite +shores. They cried out, "What! shall we be so near them, and not eat +them? This night these flocks and women shall be ours." They plunged into +the water, but were soon entangled in the holes and mud of the narrow +passes. The La Salas, too, were on the alert, poured showers of arrows +upon them, and pushed forward their cavalry. The Arabs were totally +discomfited, and Barca Gana was wounded in the back through his chain +armour. + +In this excursion Major Denham obtained some acquaintance with the Shouaa +Arabs, also called Dugganahs, a simple and pastoral race, whose principal +sustenance is the milk of their herds. They dwell in tents of leather +arranged in circular encampments; they wear long beards, and their +countenances are serious and expressive. Tahr, the chief, after strictly +examining into the motive of his journey, said, "And have you been three +years from your home? Are not your eyes dimmed with straining to the +north, where all your thoughts must ever be? If my eyes do not see the +wife and children of my heart for ten days, they are flowing with tears +when they should be closed in sleep." At his departure, Tahr said, "May +you die at your own tents, and in the arms of your wife and family!" + +The shores of the lake are infested by the Biddoomabs, a piratical tribe +who lurk in the many islands scattered upon its ample bosom. They are +rude and savage in their manners, despising cultivation: and possessing +nearly a thousand canoes, they spread terror and desolation along the +shores. + +This was the last warlike expedition which Major Denham accompanied; and +while his zeal for discovery is commendable, yet he seems to have acted +most injudiciously in exposing himself to danger, for the sake of +acquiring a cursory and superficial knowledge (all that his opportunities +enabled him to do) of certain parts of the country. + +During the time that Major Denham was engaged in these excursions, we +have mentioned that Mr. Clapperton and Dr. Oudney obtained permission to +travel westward into Soudan. At Murmur Dr. Oudney expired. The territory +of the Fellatahs was under better cultivation than any part of Africa +which they had seen. In five weeks they came to Kano, the great emporium +of Houssa, and indeed of Central Africa, which contains about 30,000 +stationary inhabitants, in addition to the migratory crowds, who repair +to it with merchandise from the farthest quarters of Africa. The walls +are fifteen miles in circumference, but only a fourth part of this +surface is covered with houses. The list of goods sold in the market is +varied and extensive, comprising clothing of all kinds made from the +cloth of the country, unwrought silk, Moorish and Mameluke dresses, +pieces of Egyptian linen striped with gold, sword-blades from Malta, +antimony and tin, glass and coral beads, ornaments of silver, pewter, and +brass, &c. besides cattle, vegetables, and fruits. But the chief feature +is the slave market, where the unfortunate beings are ranged, according +to their sex, in two long rows. The cowrie, so frequently mentioned in +Park's Travels, is here the chief medium of circulation. The city is very +unhealthy, owing to the great quantity of stagnant water enclosed within +the walls; many of the Arab merchants of the place are described as +looking rather like ghosts than men. The number of those who have lost +their sight is great, and there is a separate quarter of the town +assigned to them. + +From Kano they departed for Sockatoo, which is a well built city, laid +out in regular streets, and containing a large number of inhabitants. The +palace was merely a large enclosure, consisting of a multitude of straw +huts separated from each other. The sultan was away on a _ghrazzie_ or +slave-hunt, but returned next day, and sent for the English traveller. +After being conducted through three huts, which served as guard-houses, +Clapperton was ushered into a fourth, somewhat larger than the rest, +supported on pillars painted blue and white. Sultan Bello had a +prepossessing and noble appearance, with a fine forehead, and large black +eyes. He appeared to be much pleased with the various presents laid +before him, expressing particular satisfaction at the sight of a compass +and spy-glass. He evidently possessed an enlarged and inquisitive mind; +was acquainted with the use of the telescope, named the planets and many +of the constellations, and was much struck with the quadrant, which he +called the "looking-glass of the sun." He desired that some of the +English books should be read to him, that he might hear the sound of the +language, which he admired much. + +Sockatoo is surrounded by a wall about twenty-five feet high, with twelve +gates, which are closed at sunset. There are two large mosques, one of +which is about 800 feet long, built in rather a handsome style, and +adorned with wooden pillars. There is a spacious market-place. The +principal inhabitants live in clusters of flat-roofed cottages, built in +the Moorish style, and surrounded by high walls. + +The sultan dissuaded Clapperton from his intention of journeying to the +western countries and the Gulf of Benin; giving him an account of the +dangerous and indeed almost impracticable nature of the route. +Clapperton, therefore, resolved to return. Before he departed, he +received an account of Park's death, which nearly coincided with the +statement of Amadi Fatouma. He passed through Kashna, which before the +rise of the Fellatahs, had been the most powerful kingdom in Africa its +power having extended from Bornou to the Niger. It still carries on a +considerable traffic with the Tuaricks. On the 8th July, he reached +Kouka, where he was joined by Major Denham, and both returned in safety, +after having suffered much in their harassing march across the desert. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +_Clapperton's Second Journey_. + + +Encouraged by the discoveries made by Denham and Clapperton, and by the +safe return of two members of the mission, government resolved to send +out another expedition. Captain Clapperton, Captain Pearce, a good +draftsman, and Mr. Morrison, a naval surgeon, were the gentlemen selected +for this enterprize. They landed at Badagry about the beginning of +December 1825, and set out on their journey on the 7th. At the outset, +they were so imprudent as to sleep in the open air, in consequence of +which Morrison and Pearce were attacked with fever, and Clapperton with +ague. On the 23d, Morrison set out on his return to the ship, but died +before he reached it. On the 27th, Captain Pearce died; and Clapperton +was left to pursue his journey, attended only by Richard Lander, his +faithful and attached servant (whose name has been since associated with +the discovery of the Niger's termination), and Pascoe, an African. + +After proceeding sixty miles into the interior, they reached the kingdom +of Yarriba or Eyeo. The soil is fertile, and well cultivated, yielding +abundant harvests of Indian corn, millet, yams, and cotton. The females +are industrious, and were frequently seen carrying burdens, spinning +cloths, and dyeing them with indigo. Here they met with a much better +reception than at Houssa, where they had been looked upon as Caffres, and +enemies of the Prophet; the negroes of Eyeo, on the contrary, regarded +them as beings of almost a superior order. At the entrance to each town, +they were greeted by thousands, with every demonstration of respect, and +the night of their arrival was sometimes spent by the natives in +festivity. + +Their route now lay through a romantic range of hills, "the passes of +which were peculiarly narrow and rugged, hemmed in by gigantic blocks of +granite six or seven hundred feet high, sometimes fearfully overhanging +the road." Every level spot along the bottom, and even in the cliffs of +the mountains, bore crops of yams, millet, and cotton. Lander describes +one of the lovely spots that so beautifully relieved the sterner +magnificence of the rocks. "At noon we descended into a delightful +valley, situated in the bottom of a ridge of rocks, which effectually hid +it from observation till one approached almost close to it. It was +intersected with streams and rills, the elegant palm, and the +broad-leaved banana, covered with foliage, embellishing the sheltered and +beautifully romantic spot. In the centre was a sheet of water, resembling +an artificial pond, in which were numbers of young maidens from the +neighbouring town of Tschow, some of them reposing at full length on its +verdant banks, and some frisking and basking in the sun-beams, whilst +others were bathing in the cool waters." After leaving the mountains, the +travellers came to Tschow, a walled town of considerable size. As the +road was infested with robbers, they here procured an escort from the +king of Yarriba, consisting of 200 horsemen, and 400 warriors on foot, +armed with spears, bows, and arrows. The troops were dressed in a +grotesque fashion, some wearing gaudy robes, while others were in rags. +The whole cavalcade had a wild and romantic appearance as it wound along +the narrow and crooked paths, to the sound of rude instruments of music. + +At noon, they came in sight of the city of Kakunda, picturesquely +situated at the foot of a mountain, and surrounded with trees. After +riding nearly five miles through the streets, pressed upon by the escort, +and almost stunned by the noise of the musicians, the weary travellers at +length reached the palace. The king sat under a verandah, with two +umbrellas spread above him, surrounded by above 400 of his wives, and +many of his chief men. He was dressed in two long cotton robes, decorated +with strings of glass beads, with a pasteboard crown, covered with +cotton, upon his head. They dismounted at about 20 yards distance, and +walked up close to the monarch, who rose and cordially shook hands with +them, repeatedly vociferating, "Ako! ako!" which means, "How do you do?" +at which his chief men and wives gave loud cheers. A house was assigned +to the English, and each day they received a plentiful supply of +provisions. + +Under various pretences they were detained at this place for the space of +seven weeks. The Quorra or Niger was only about thirty miles distant to +the eastward; but though the king had promised to afford them every +facility for reaching it, one delay took place after another. He +endeavoured to deter them by false accounts of the dangerous nature of +the route, in consequence of an alleged incursion of the Fellatahs, and +insurrection of the Houssa slaves. At last, however, he suffered them to +set out, by the kingdom of Borgoo, towards Houssa. + +They now entered the Borgoo country. They passed several villages which +had been pillaged and burnt by the Fellatahs; indeed, the whole country +bore testimony to the ravages of war. Lander gives a spirited account of +an adventure which happened to him in this part of the country. "We left +a village at four o'clock in the afternoon; and the horse on which I rode +being in better condition than the others, I was considerably in advance +of the rest of the party, when the animal came to a sudden halt, and all +my endeavours could not make him proceed. There he stood like a block of +marble, keeping his eye riveted on something that was approaching us, and +I had scarcely time to consider what it could be, when a fine antelope +bounded before me with incredible swiftness, and in the next moment two +huge lions, with mane and tail erect, crossed the path but a couple of +yards from the horse's head, almost with equal speed, and covered with +foam. A tremendous roar, which made the forest tremble, informed me in +another minute that the lions had overtaken their prey; but the +sudden--and unexpected appearance of these ferocious animals startled me +as much as it had intimidated the horse before, and I hastened back to +the party, my poor beast trembling violently the whole of the way. +Fortunately the lions, which were male and female, were so eager in the +chase that both the horse and its rider were unobserved by them, +otherwise it might have gone hard with me, for I saw not the slightest +chance of escaping. We halted in the woods that night; but fancying every +sound I heard was the roaring of a lion, I could not compose myself to +sleep." + +Kiama, the next city at which they arrived, contains 80,000 inhabitants. +The king came to meet Clapperton, attended by a singular train. He rode +upon a handsome steed, followed by an admiring crowd; six young girls, +each flourishing spears, and who had only a fillet on their heads, ran by +his side as he galloped on. "Their light form, the vivacity of their +eyes, and the ease with which they appeared to fly over the ground, made +them appear something more than mortal." When the king entered the hut in +which the travellers sat, these damsels, having deposited their weapons +at; the door, and attired themselves in blue mantles, came in and waited +upon him. + +They now crossed a river which was said to have its source in Nyffe, and +to flow into the Niger above Rakah. It abounded in alligators. The +scenery in the neighbourhood is said to be very fine. "Our ears," says +Lander, "were ravished by the warbling of hundreds of small birds, which, +with parrots and parroquets, peopled the branches of the trees in the +vicinity of the stream, whose delightful banks were thereby overshadowed; +and the eye met a variety of beautiful objects,--groves of noble trees, +verdant hills, and smiling plains, through which the river winded, +carrying fertility and beauty in its course, and altogether forming a +rich and charming landscape." They then arrived at Wa-wa, a large city, +through which the Houssa caravans pass, and which has a population of +15,000. The inhabitants are dissolute and extravagant, spending all their +money in drinking and festivity. The ladies were very attentive to the +English, especially a fat widow called Zuma, who even pressed marriage +upon Clapperton, after she had exhibited to him all her wealth. She +afterwards gave him a good deal of trouble by following him on the +journey at the head of a band of armed attendants, and he rejoiced much +when he finally got rid of her. + +On their way to Comie, they visited Boussa, the scene of Park's tragical +end. The natives were extremely reserved upon the subject, but what they +told, bore out in every particular Amadi Fatouma's account. They said +that the attack was caused by the English having been mistaken for an +advanced guard of Fellatahs, who were then devastating Soudan. The King +of Boussa received Clapperton and Lander with great kindness. Here they +found boats lying ready for them, with a message from the Sultan of +Youri, requesting a visit, and promising, if they consented, to deliver +up some books and papers of Mungo Park, which he said he had in his +possession. Clapperton's arrangements, however, prevented him from paying +this visit. + +They crossed the Niger, and on entering the kingdom of Nyffe, beheld +proofs of the effects of civil war. Two princes had struggled for the +ascendency, one of whom, by obtaining the help of the Fellatahs, had +overcome the other. As Clapperton travelled towards the camp of the +conqueror, he saw nothing but ruined villages, and plantations overgrown +with weeds. "This African camp consisted of a number of huts like +beehives, arranged in streets, with men weaving, women spinning, markets +at every green tree, holy men counting their beads, and dissolute slaves +drinking; so that, but for the number of horses and armed men, and the +drums beating, it might have been mistaken for a populous village." After +journeying along the banks of the Mayyarrow, and passing a walled village +called Gonda, they entered Coulfo, which is the most considerable +market-town in Nyffe. It is enclosed by a high wall, with a deep and +broad ditch beyond it, and contains about 16,000 resident inhabitants. +Markets are held daily, and a great variety of articles of native and +foreign manufacture are exposed for sale. Traders resort in vast numbers +from Bornou and Sockatoo to the north-east, and the sea-coast to the +west, with the produce of their respective countries. The inhabitants are +professedly Moslems, but are by no means bigoted in their belief. The +greater part of the traffic is carried on by the females, many of whom +possess great wealth. + +Clapperton next passed through several independent states, one of which +mustered a force of 1000 cavalry. + +He next came to the Fellatah district of Zeg-Zeg, one of the most +beautiful and fertile parts of Central Africa. The fields bore luxuriant +crops of grain; rich meadows abounded, and groves of tall trees waved +upon the hills. Thence he went to Kano, which he found in a state of +great commotion, a war having sprung up between the king of Bornou and +the Fellatahs. Having left his baggage at this place, he proceeded to the +residence of Sultan Bello, with the presents intended for that potentate. +He saw bodies of troops on their way to attack Coonia; the soldiers had a +peculiar appearance as they passed by the lakes formed by the river +Zurmie; he thus describes the scene:--"The borders of these lakes are the +resort of numbers of elephants and other wild beasts. The appearance at +this season, and at the spot where I saw it, was very beautiful; all the +acacia trees were in blossom, some with white flowers, others with +yellow, forming a contrast with the small dusky leaves, like gold and +silver tassels on a cloak of dark green velvet. I observed some fine +large fish leaping in the lake. Some of the troops were bathing, others +watering their horses, bullocks, camels and asses: the lake was as smooth +as glass, and flowing around the roots of the trees. The sun, on its +approach to the horizon, throws the shadows of the flowery acacias along +its surface, like sheets of burnished gold and silver. The smoking fires +on its banks, the sounding of horns, the beating of their gongs or drums, +the braying of their brass and tin trumpets, the rude hut of grass and +branches of trees rising as if by magic, everywhere the cries of Mohamed, +Abdo, Mustafa, &c. with the neighing of horses, and the braying of asses, +gave animation to the beautiful scenery of the lake, and its sloping +green and woody banks." + +The army, amounting to 50,000 men, under the sultan's command, surrounded +the walls of Coonia. The account which Clapperton gives of the action +which then took place is curious, "After the midday prayers, all except +the eunuchs, camel drivers, and such other servants as were of use only +to prevent theft, whether mounted or on foot, marched towards the object +of attack, and soon arrived before the walls of the city. I also +accompanied them, and took up my station close to the Gadado. The march +had been the most disorderly that can be imagined; horse and foot +intermingling in the greatest confusion, all rushing to get forward; +sometimes the followers of one chief tumbling amongst those of another, +when swords were half unsheathed, but all ending in making a face, or +putting on a threatening aspect. We soon arrived before Coonia, the +capital of the rebels of Goobur, which was not above half a mile in +diameter, being nearly circular, and built on the bank of one of the +branches of the rivers or lakes, which I have mentioned. Each chief, as +he came up, took his station, which, I suppose, had previously been +assigned to him. The number of fighting men brought before the town could +not, I think, be less than fifty or sixty thousand, horse and foot, of +which the foot amounted to more than nine-tenths. For the depth of two +hundred yards all round the walls, was a dense circle of men and horses. +The horse kept out of bow-shot, while the foot went up as they felt +courage or inclination, and kept up a straggling fire, with about thirty +muskets and the shooting of arrows. In the front of the Sulfcaa, the +Zeg-Zeg troops had one French fusil: the Kano forces had forty-one +muskets. These fellows, whenever they fired their pieces, ran out of +bow-shot to load; all of them were slaves: not a single Fellatah had a +musket. The enemy kept up a sure and slow fight, seldom throwing away +their arrows, until they saw an opportunity of letting fly with effect. +Now and then a single horseman would gallop up to the ditch, taking care +to cover himself with his large leather shield, and return as fast as he +went, generally calling out lustily when he got among his own party, +'Shields to the wall!' 'You people of the Gadado or Atego,' &c, 'why +don't you hasten to the wall?' To which some voices would call out, 'Oh! +you have a good large shield to cover you!' The cry of 'Shields to the +wall!' was constantly heard from the several chiefs to their troops; but +they disregarded the call, and neither chiefs nor vassals moved from the +spot. At length the men in quilted armour went up. They certainly cut not +a bad figure at a distance, as their helmets were ornamented with black +and white ostrich feathers, and the sides of the helmets with pieces of +tin, which glittered in the sun, their long quilted cloaks of gaudy +colours, reaching over part of the horses' tails, and hanging over their +flanks. On the neck, even the horses' armour was notched or vandyked, to +look like a mane; on his forehead and over his nose, was a brass or tin +plate, as also a semi-circular piece on each side. The rider was armed +with a large spear and he had to be assisted to mount his horse, as his +quilted cloak was too heavy; it required two men to lift him on, and +there were six of them belonging to each governor, and six to the Sultan. +I at first thought the foot would take advantage of going under cover of +these unwieldy machines; but no, they went alone as fast as the poor +horses could bear them, which was but a slow pace. They had one musket in +Coonia, and it did wonderful execution, for it brought down the foremost +of the quilted men, who fell from his horse like a sack of corn thrown +from a horse's back at a miller's door, but both horse and man were +brought off by two or three footmen. He had got two balls through his +breast: one went through his body and both sides of the robe, the other +went through and lodged in the quilted armour opposite the shoulders." + +Clapperton was desired by the sultan to repair to Sockatoo, where he +found the same house in which he had formerly lodged prepared for his +reception. He resided there six months, harassed by disappointment, and +worn down by severe illness. No farther was this gallant and intrepid +traveller to be permitted to advance; in the midst of his discoveries he +was to be cut down, his dying couch tended by none but his faithful and +kind companion and servant, the depth and fidelity of whose attachment is +attested by the affectionate manner in which he speaks of his master. + +The feelings of the natives and of the king seemed to have undergone a +most unfavourable change towards the travellers. The Africans entertained +some vague suspicion, that the King of England, in sending the white men +to their country, had some sinister object in view. A letter had reached +the sultan from Bornou, intimating, that in sending missions to Africa, +the English were acting in the same manner as they had done, in order to +subdue the Indian princes, and even advising that Clapperton should be +put to death. Bello evidently put some faith in this ridiculous +assertion. He seized Clapperton's baggage, under the pretence that he was +conveying arms and warlike stores to the sultan of Bornou, and ordered +Lord Bathurst's letter to that prince to be given up to him. Clapperton's +remonstrances against this unfair treatment were vain; grief preyed upon +his ardent spirit, and though the sultan, some time afterwards began to +treat him more favourably, this returning kindness came too late. He was +attacked with dysentery, brought on by a cold, caught by lying down under +a tree on soft and wet ground, when fatigued and heated with walking. +"Twenty days," says Lander, "my poor master continued in a low and +distressed state. His body, from being robust and vigorous, became weak +and emaciated, and indeed was little better than a skeleton." Towards the +beginning of April, his malady increased in violence. His sleep was short +and disturbed, broken by frightful dreams. One day he called Lander to +his bedside, and said, "Richard, I shall shortly be no more,--I feel +myself dying." Almost choked with grief, Lander replied, "God forbid, my +dear master,--you will live many years yet." "Do not be so much affected, +my dear boy, I entreat you," said he; "it is the will of the Almighty, +and cannot be helped." Lander promised strict attention to his directions +concerning his papers and property. "He then," says Lander, "took my hand +within his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear stood +glistening in his eye, said in a low but deeply affecting tone; 'My dear +Richard, if you had not been with me I should have died long ago; I can +only thank you with my latest breath for your kindness and attachment to +me; and if I could have lived to return with you, you should have been +placed beyond the reach of want; but God will reward you.'" + +He lingered a few days, and even seemed to rally a little. But on the +morning of the 13th April, Lander was alarmed by hearing a peculiar +rattling sound in his throat. He called out "Richard," in a low and +hurried tone. Lander hastened to his side, and found him sitting upright, +and staring wildly around. He clasped his master in his arms, and felt +his heart palpitating violently; he leant his head upon his shoulder to +catch his last words, but only "some indistinct expressions quivered on +his lips, and as he vainly strove to give them utterance, his heart +ceased to vibrate, and his eyes closed for ever." Bello permitted Lander +to bury the body near a village about five miles from the town. The +grave was dug by two slaves, and Lander, having saddled his camel, placed +the body upon it, covered it with the British flag, and having reached +the grave, read over it the funeral service of the Church of England, +"showers of tears" falling from his eyes upon the book. He then gave the +natives a sum of money to erect a shed over the spot, to preserve it from +the wild beasts. + +Lander returned in sadness from the grave of that master to whom he was +so justly attached. Bello allowed him to depart, and he resolved to make +his way to the coast by the negro countries. In spite of the limited +nature of his resources, he even attempted the solution of the great +problem of the Niger's termination. He proceeded to Kano, and struck off +to the eastward of his former route, passing on his way several towns, +the inhabitants of which all treated him kindly. He travelled through the +beautiful plain of Cuttup, which contains five hundred little villages, +situated near to each other, and surrounded by groves of trees, among +which towered the plantain, the palm, and the cocoa-nut. The sun shone +brightly upon the numerous hamlets; the oxen, cows, and sheep, presented +a picture of comfort and peace; and the air was filled with the song of +birds. Thence he proceeded to Dunrora, and conceived that a few days +farther journey would enable him to attain his object, when four armed +men, mounted on foaming steeds, dashed into the town, and ordered him +immediately to return to the king of Zeg-Zeg. He was obliged to journey +back by his former route. After being exposed to various dangers from the +enmity of the Portuguese slave-traders on the coast, he embarked on the +13th February, and reached England on the 30th April 1828. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +_Laing and Caillie_. + + +At the same time that Clapperton undertook his second journey, Major +Laing, who had on a former excursion penetrated a little way into the +interior, attempted to reach Tombuctoo, from Tripoli, across the desert, +by Ghadamis. In the midst of the desert, the party with whom he travelled +was attacked during the night by a formidable band of Tuaricks; and +Laing, having received twenty-four wounds, was left for dead. He +afterwards recovered by the care of his companions, though several +splinters of bone were extracted from his head. Undismayed by this +unpropitious accident, he after a short delay resumed his journey, and +reached Tombuctoo on the 18th August, 1826. There he resided for a month, +during which several letters from him reached England. He described the +city as every way equal, except in size, to his expectation. It was not +above four miles in circumference. During his short residence, he had +collected much valuable information concerning the geography of Central +Africa. He was obliged to depart in consequence of instructions reaching +the governor of the city that the Christian must instantly remove. He +accordingly engaged a merchant, called Barbooshi, to guide him to the +coast. Before he had advanced three days journey from Tombuctoo, the +treacherous Moor murdered him at night, and seized his baggage and +journal. His papers were reported to have been carried to Tripoli; but +they have never since been recovered. + +[Illustration: Burial of Clapperian.] + +[Illustration: Body Guard, of the Sheik, of Bornoiu.] + +The next traveller was a Frenchman, M. Caillie, who, after having +previously resided some years at Senegal, returned to Africa in 1824. +Disguised as a Mahomedan, he departed for the interior on the 19th of +April, 1827, and arrived at Tangier in safety in the following August. +His countrymen rewarded him with a pension and the cross of the legion of +honour, and claimed for him a high place among distinguished travellers. +Doubts have been thrown upon the authenticity of his narrative, some +having gone so far as to say that the greater part of it is a +fabrication. Many errors have been detected in it, particularly with +regard to the observation of the heavenly bodies; but this may have +arisen from ignorance. It is now generally agreed that his account is +entitled to consideration; especially as in the present state of our +knowledge concerning Africa there is not sufficient ground to disprove +it. At all events, his want of education and defective observation +prevent him from laying any claims to accuracy. + +M. Caillie travelled along with a caravan of Mandingoes through a steep +and rocky district, diversified however, at intervals, with picturesque +views, and in many places in a state of comparative cultivation. At the +village of Couroussa he first saw the Niger, which was already about ten +feet deep. He remained a month at Kankan, which contains about 6000 +inhabitants, and has a well-supplied market. To the north of it lies the +district of Boure, which abounds in gold. He then came to Time, the +country around which is fertile, producing many different species of +fruits and vegetables. M. Caillie was here detained by illness for five +months. After which he accompanied a caravan for Jenne; and on the 10th +March crossed the Niger, which appeared to be about 500 feet broad at +that point. On the 23rd March he embarked on the Joliba, in a +slight-built vessel, fastened together by cords, and of about 60 tons +burden. On the 2nd April they came to the place where the river widens +into the great lake Dibbe. They then passed through a country thinly +peopled by Foulah herdsmen, and bands of roving Tuaricks. In a few days +he came to Cabra, the port of Tombuctoo, which consists of a long row of +clay huts, thatched with straw. It contains about 1200 inhabitants, who +are solely employed in conveying merchandize from the vessels to +Tombuctoo. + +On the 20th April M. Caillie entered Tombuctoo. His feelings at the sight +of this celebrated city were those of disappointment. Perhaps in his +wanderings he had fed his imagination with dreams of a flourishing and +splendid capital reared amid the waste. He thus describes it:--"The +spectacle before me did not answer my expectation. At first sight it +presents but a heap of houses, neither so large nor so well peopled as I +expected. Its commerce is less considerable than is stated by public +report, a great concourse of strangers coming from every part of Soudan. +I met in the streets only the camels coming from Kabra. The city is +inhabited by negroes of the Kissour nation. They form the principal +population. The city is without any walls, open on all sides, and may +contain 10,000 or 12,000 inhabitants, including the Moors." The houses +are built of brick; and there are seven mosques, the principal one of +great size, having a tower fifty feet high. The city depends exclusively +on trade, which is entirely in the hands of the Moors. The chief article +of commerce is salt, which is dug out of the mines of Sahara; but other +articles, both of European and native manufacture, are likewise sold. The +goods are embarked for Jenne, and bartered for gold, slaves, and +provisions. The city is surrounded with plains of moving sand. "The +horizon is of a pale red. All is gloomy in nature. The deepest silence +reigns--not the song of a single bird is heard." + +On the 4th May, M. Caillie departed from Tombuctoo, and in a few days +arrived at Aroan, a town containing 3000 inhabitants, on the route to +which neither herb nor shrub was seen; and their only fuel was the dung +of camels. On the 19th May he prepared to cross the desert, along with a +large caravan. Scarcely a drop of water could be found, and many of the +wells were dried up. "Before us appeared a horizon without bounds, in +which our eyes distinguished only an immense plain of burning sand, +enveloped by a sky on fire. At this spectacle the camels raised long +cries, and the slaves mournfully lifted up their eyes to heaven." They +suffered much from thirst during this dreary march, and their strength +was almost exhausted before they reached the springs of Telig. After many +days harassing toil, they came to the frontiers of Morocco, and M. +Caillie, having crossed the Atlas, contrived to make his way to Tangier. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +_Lander's Journey_. + + +In the preceding chapter the reader must have admired the fortitude and +resolution manifested by Lander, when, after the death of Clapperton, he +had to travel to the coast alone. His attempt to reach the Niger shewed +that his disposition was ardent and enterprising, and that, but for +untoward circumstances, he would have effected his object. On his return +to England, he again offered his services to government, and accompanied +by his brother John, embarked from Portsmouth on the 9th January 1830, +and reached Cape Coast Castle on the 22d of the following month. + +Having hired several native attendants, one of whom, called Pascoe, was +well qualified to act as an interpreter, the travellers sailed to +Badagry, and landed on the 22d. They resided some days at this place, the +chief being unwilling to part from them till he had obtained as presents +almost every article which he coveted. As if in contrast with the beauty +of the country, the inhabitants of Badagry are a dissolute, sensual, and +greedy race. While they resided in the town, the Landers were invited to +visit the spot where the Mahomedans perform some of their religious +rites. Two Mussulmen guided them to the place, which was about a mile +distant. They came to a bare space of sandy ground, surrounded with +trees; here they found the Mussulmen engaged in prostration and ablution. +Each group as it arrived, was received with flourishes of musical +instruments. Every one was clad in his best apparel. "Loose robes, with +caps and turbans, striped and plain, red, blue, and black, were not +unpleasingly contrasted with the original native costume of fringed +cotton thrown loosely over the shoulders, and immense rush hats. +Manchester cloths, of the most glaring patterns, were conspicuous amongst +the crowd; but these were cast in the shade, by scarfs of green silk +ornamented with leaves and flowers of gold, and aprons covered with +silver spangles." No sooner were the religious ceremonies finished, than +there was a general discharge of fire-arms; and clarionets, drums, and +strings of bells betokened the joy felt on the occasion. + +The soil of Badagry is fertile, and consists of a layer of fine white +sand over loam, clay, and earth; the sand is so deep as to render walking +difficult. The inhabitants depend for subsistence on fishing, and the +cultivation of the yam and Indian corn. They fish with nets and spears, +and also with a peculiarly formed earthen pot, which they bait with the +palm nut. The more wealthy possess bullocks, sheep, goats, and poultry. +The houses, which are neatly constructed of bamboo, and thatched with +palm leaves, contain several rooms; almost all have yards attached to +them, to the cultivation of which some little attention is paid. + +On the night of the 31st March they set sail from Badagry in the chief's +war canoe, which was about forty feet long, and propelled by poles. The +banks of the river were low, covered with stunted trees; and a +slave-factory and fetish hut were the only buildings visible. At +intervals, at a winding of the river, they saw "a noble and solitary +palm-tree, with its lofty branches bending over the water's edge." At +this point, the atmosphere is loaded with pestilential miasmata. For a +considerable way the water is almost hid by a profusion of marine plants, +but these gradually disappear, and the boughs of beautiful trees hang +over the banks, and screen the travellers from the sun's rays. A number +of aquatic birds resort to this place; and the ear is absolutely stunned +with the noise of parrots and monkeys. They landed, and walked on to Wow, +which is an extensive town. After passing through several villages, their +route lay through woods and patches of open ground, till they came to a +beautiful and romantic glen in the very heart of a wood. It abounded in +butterflies, whose shining wings displayed an infinity of colours. + +The Landers now followed nearly the same route which Clapperton had +pursued on his second journey. On the 6th April, they arrived at Jenne, +where they were well received by the governor, who had recently been +appointed to his office by the king of Badagry. The inhabitants are +industrious and temperate, living chiefly on vegetable food. The chief +labour, however, is devolved upon the females, who carry merchandize from +place to place upon their heads, and bear with great patience their heavy +burdens. Their path continued to lie through a most beautiful and fertile +region, covered with exuberant vegetation. With the slightest attention +and care, the soil would yield an abundant return; but the people are +satisfied if they merely supply the cravings of nature, contenting +themselves with slightly turning up the ground with the hoe. As they left +Chouchow, a delightful morning following a rainy night, caused the +flowers and shrubs to exhale delicious perfumes. On each side of the path +were granite mountains of irregular shapes, the tops of which were +covered with trees, and in the hollows of their slopes were clusters of +huts. A great number of birds frequented the valley, and the delightful +notes of a few were strangely contrasted with the harsh and discordant +croaking of others. "The modest partridge appeared in company with the +magnificent Balearic crane, with his regal crest; and delicate humming +birds hopped from twig to twig with others of an unknown species; some of +them were of a dark shining green; some had red silky wings and purple +bodies; some were variegated with stripes of crimson and gold; and these +chirped and warbled from among the thick foliage of the trees." + +They arrived at Katunga on the 18th May, and immediately had an interview +with king Mansolah. His head was ornamented with a turban resembling in +shape a bishop's mitre, to which many strings of coral were attached. +"His robe was of green silk, crimson silk damask, and green silk velvet, +which were all sewn together like pieces of patchwork. He wore English +cotton stockings, and neat leathern sandals of native workmanship. A +large piece of superfine light blue cloth, given him by the late Captain +Clapperton, served as a carpet." The monarch, after some hesitation, +granted them permission to visit Botissa and the neighbourhood, and said +he would dispatch a messenger to the neighbouring princes, to facilitate +the progress of the travellers through their dominions. The city had a +melancholy and cheerless aspect; the walls had fallen to decay, and the +streets were nearly deserted. + +After passing Kushee, the travellers were joined by a Borgoo _fatakie_, +or company of merchants. Their route lay through a vast and lonely +forest, infested by robbers. At one opening a band of twenty marauders +armed with lances and bows and arrows, appeared from behind the trees, +and stationed themselves in the middle of the path before the men who +carried the baggage, who were much frightened, and seemed disposed to +throw down their burdens and run away. But when Richard Lander presented +his gun at their leaders, their courage failed, and they took to flight. +On the road to Kiama, the appearance of the country was completely +changed, and the road lay through a vast tract of mountain forest, the +haunt of savage animals. The crossing of a narrow brook introduced them +to a people speaking a different language, of different manners and creed +from those of Yarriboo. Lander gives the following account of the first +night which they spent in this new territory:--"We occupy a large round +hut, in the centre of which is the trunk of a large tree, which supports +the roof; it has two apertures for doors, above which are a couple of +charms, written in Arabic. It is now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with +several of their fellow-travellers, are reposing on mats and skins, in +various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with +cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other +weapons, are either hanging on the wall or resting upon it. The scene is +wild and singular. Outside our hut it is still more striking. There +though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the _fatakie_, consisting +of men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups, or +sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the +hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees +in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half +naked persons; their weapons at their sides, and their horses are grazing +near them." After entering Kiama, they were introduced to King Yarro, who +sat by himself upon a heap of buffalo hides; the walls of the apartment +were ornamented with portraits of George IV. the Duke of York, the Duke +of Wellington, and Lord Nelson; opposite to these were suspended horse +accoutrements, and on each side were scraps of paper, on which were +written sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay a confused heap of +muskets, lances, and other weapons. The king assigned to them a dwelling +near the palace. The travellers had one day the gratification of +witnessing an African horse-race. The entertainment was preceded by the +ceremonies of Mahometan devotion. The head Mallam read a few pages from +the Koran, after which a sheep was sacrificed; the blood was then poured +into a calibash, and the king and some of his subjects washed their hands +in it, and sprinkled the drops on the ground. After this a few old +muskets were discharged, and the king and his chiefs rode about the +ground, armed, and in gay attire. It was evening before the races +commenced, which were attended by a joyful and noisy crowd. The monarch +and his guards came upon the ground in procession, mounted on handsome +steeds. The horses and their riders soon appeared. The men wore turbans +of blue and white cotton, red morocco boots, and robes of every possible +hue. The horses were gaily caparisoned, and had strings of bells hanging +from their necks. The signal for starting was given, and they set off at +full gallop. "The riders brandished their spears, the little boys +flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons performed their antics, +muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest +horse on the ground, watched the progress of the race, while tears of +delight were starting from his eyes. The race was well contested, and +terminated only by the horses being fatigued, and out of breath." + +On the 5th June they left Kiama, and arrived at a large town called +Kakafungi. The inhabitants are a good-humoured and civil race, often +amusing themselves at night by dancing in the moonlight to the sound of a +large drum. The road from this place was marked by many foot-prints of +wild beasts; but the travellers only saw a few antelopes, which +immediately took to flight. No trees defended them from the burning sun, +and they could scarcely proceed from weakness. They saw the sun set +behind some magnificent clouds, whilst they had yet a great way to go; +and the narrow foot-path, overgrown with bushes and rank grass, was +hardly discernible by the light of the moon. In the afternoon, all had +been silent in the forest; but at night the jackal, the hyena, and the +baboon had forsaken their retreats, and mingled their dismal howl with +the chirping of innumerable insects. + +They reached Boussa on the 17th June. The appearance of the Niger at this +place disappointed them much. "Black rugged rocks rose abruptly from the +centre of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface." +At its widest part, the Niger here did not exceed a stone-cast in +breadth. They sat on the rock which overlooks the place where the +intrepid Park was murdered. The Landers recovered from one of the natives +a robe, of rich crimson damask, covered with gold embroidery, which the +natives said had belonged to Mr. Park. The king's drummer, with whom they +lodged, told them, that there was in the country a book which had also +belonged to the white man. A few days afterwards, the king came to the +house, followed by a man, who carried under his arm a book wrapped in a +large cotton cloth. "Our hearts beat high with expectation, as the man +was slowly unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park's +journal; but our disappointment was great, when, on opening the book, we +discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last century." It +consisted chiefly of tables of logarithms, and between the leaves were a +few loose papers of very little consequence. + +In a few days, a canoe was ready for their voyage up the Niger to +Yaoorie. The canoe was of great length, and constructed of two blocks of +wood sewn together with a thick cord, under which a quantity of straw was +placed, both inside and out, to prevent the admission of water. Still it +was leaky and insecure. The direction of that branch of the river which +flows past Boussa is nearly east and west, and they had to descend the +stream for some distance, in order to get into its main branch, where +there was deeper water. The river then flowed from north to south, +through a fertile country, and its channel was more than a mile in width. +The branches of spreading and majestic trees almost met the water's edge; +ripe grain waved upon the banks; large villages were frequently seen; and +herds of spotted cattle grazed beneath the shade. Canoes, laden with +sheep and goats, and propelled by women, frequently passed them; and +aquatic birds skimmed over the smooth and glassy surface. + +During the following day, the river gradually widened to two miles, and +though in many places shallow, was in other parts deep enough to float a +frigate. By the afternoon, however, the beauty of the scene was entirely +gone; the banks were composed of black and rugged rocks, and the course +of the river was frequently intercepted by sand-banks and low islands. On +the following morning, the channel became so much obstructed, that, at +one part, they were obliged to land in order to lighten the canoe, which, +after much trouble, was lifted over a ridge into deeper water. Though +they often struck upon concealed rocks and sandbanks, yet the canoe, from +its peculiar structure, seemed to sustain little damage. At length, +however, these difficulties were surmounted, and they came to the +termination of all the islands, beyond which they were assured there was +no farther danger to navigators. At this point, the river "presented its +noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was perceptible; its +borders resumed their beauty, and a strong refreshing breeze, which had +blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the motion of a +slightly agitated sea." They landed at a village about eight miles +distant from Yaoorie, where they found their horses and attendants +waiting for them. Here one of the Landers obtained from an Arab a gun +which had belonged to Mr. Park, in exchange for his own. + +The walls of Yaoorie are between thirty and forty miles in circuit; but +this space encloses clusters of huts, with pasture grounds and corn +fields. The land is fertile, and produces excellent crops of rice. Yet it +must be very unhealthy, for it is in many places swampy, and exposed to +inundation. The sultan's residence is substantially built, and two +stories in height; most of the other houses are built in a circular form. +The place has rather a pleasing appearance, being adorned by many clumps +of trees. The soil is cultivated by a peaceable, industrious, half +servile tribe, called the Cumbrie, who are often subjected to much +oppression. + +On the 1st August, they paid a farewell visit to the sultan before +proceeding on their return to Boussa. They were ushered into a large, +gloomy, and uncomfortable apartment, through which naked girls and boys +were constantly passing, carrying dirty calibashes in their hands, and +swallows flew about the room in all directions. The sultan sat upon a +platform covered with faded damask, and smoked a pipe of huge dimensions. +Next day they departed, travelling in a direct line towards the river +Cubbie. They embarked in two canoes, each about twenty feet long, and +constructed of a single log. After they had sailed for about four miles, +the Cubbie fell into the Niger. They took a different channel from that +by which they had before ascended, and reached Boussa on the 5th. They +now determined to proceed to Wowow, to purchase a canoe better fitted for +navigating the Niger. They arrived at Wowow on the 12th, and had a +favourable interview with the old chief. They then returned to Boussa to +complete their preparations, but the arrival of the vessel was delayed, +under various pretexts, until past the middle of September. + +Early in the morning of the 20th, however, their goods were embarked in +two canoes, and they set off. Some of their Boussa friends implored a +blessing upon them before they started. They had not proceeded far before +they found that the smaller of the two canoes was so unsafe, that they +were compelled to lighten it much. After passing several towns of +considerable size, they reached a large and beautiful island called +Patashie, very fertile, and adorned with groves of lofty palm-trees. One +of the Landers went to Wowow to procure better canoes, while the other +remained on the island with the baggage. At length they succeeded in +their object, and were again borne along the river. For some time they +met with no obstacle; but at one part they came to a reef of rocks, to +clear which they had to proceed through a very narrow channel, overhung +with the branches of trees, and more than half filled with rushes and +tall grass. Soon after passing into the main river, they landed at the +town of Lever, or Layaba, which contains a great number of inhabitants, +and was then in the hands of the Fellatahs; here they remained till the +4th October. The river at this place ran deep, and was free from rocks. +Its width varied from one to three miles; the country on each side was +flat, and a few insignificant villages were scattered at intervals along +the banks. Yet at a little distance farther on, the banks were again +overshadowed by large trees, the openings of which disclosed a fertile, +and apparently populous country. + +Near Bajiebo, they noticed several large canoes of a peculiar build, the +bottom being of a single tree, and built up with planks to a considerable +height. Upon these, sheds thatched with straw, were erected, which served +the people for dwellings. Beyond this place the Niger separated into +large branches, and the travellers went on by the eastward one; after +they had passed an island, these again united. + +After passing a high hill of curious granite rock, they came to a double +range of rocky mountains, near which was a small village, where the +canoe-men were exchanged. The hills are gloomy and romantic, fringed in +some parts with stunted shrubs, which overhang deep precipices; they are +haunted by wild beasts and birds of prey. In the very middle of the river +a rocky island, called Mount Kesa, rose to the height of nearly 300 feet, +and its steep sides had an imposing appearance. + +They next passed the island of Belee; the sound of music was heard, and +an ornamented canoe appeared, conveying an important personage, called by +the sounding title of "the King of the Dark Water," who conducted them to +his "island-domain," which is called Zagoshi, and is situated in the +midst of the Niger. It is fifteen miles long, and three broad; its mud +surface, which is frequently overflowed, lies almost on a level with the +water, and is so soft, that even in the floors of the huts, a slender +cane could be thrust down to any depth. Yet it is well cultivated, and +productive; and its manufactures are superior to those of Nyffe; the +cloth especially is reckoned the best in Africa. Wooden vessels, mats, +shoes, horse trappings, and rude agricultural instruments, are likewise +made. The travellers saw many natives plying their various occupations in +the open air. The chief of the place possesses a naval force of 600 +canoes. + +Opposite Zagoshi, on the eastern shore of the river, stands Rabba, the +largest and most flourishing city of Nyffe. The surrounding territory is +fertile, and produces large crops of grain; the people possess many +flocks and herds. The travellers' stock of goods to be exchanged for +provisions was now so nearly exhausted by the delays they had met with, +and the extortions of the chiefs and natives, that they began to be in +difficulties, and were compelled to part with several valuable articles, +and among the rest with Mungo Park's robe. + +Before they left Zagoshi, they exchanged their two canoes for one, which +appeared more commodious, and better adapted for the navigation of the +river. It was fifteen feet long, and four broad, perfectly strait, and +flat-bottomed. They had not gone far, however, when the canoe began to +leak, and they discovered that it had been patched up in many places, +After they had paddled about thirty miles, they were in great danger from +the hippopotami, which rose very near to them, and came "snorting, +splashing, and tumbling all round the canoe." They fired a shot or two, +but the noise only called up more of these unwieldy monsters to the +surface. The boatmen, who had never before been exposed in a canoe to +such huge and formidable beasts, trembled with fear and apprehension, and +absolutely "wept aloud; their terror was not a little increased by the +dreadful peals of thunder that burst over their heads, and the awful +darkness that prevailed, which was only broken at intervals by vivid +flashes of lightning. We were told that they frequently upset canoes in +the river, when every one in them is sure to perish. They came so close +to us, that we could reach them with the butt-end of a gun." To add to +their terror, as the night advanced the storm increased. The wind was so +furious, that it dashed the water several times over the sides of the +canoe, so that she was nearly filled. The little vessel became almost +unmanageable; at length, however, they got to a bank about the centre of +the stream, and fastened the boat to a thorny tree. The weather became +calmer at midnight, after which the rain descended in torrents, +accompanied with terrific thunder and lightning. They were obliged +constantly to bale. Next morning they perceived several mountains, which +were so elevated and distant, that their blue summits could scarcely be +distinguished from the clouds. They were of the most varied shapes, and +appeared to form part of a regular mountain chain. After having passed +the island of Gungo, which contains about 100 inhabitants, they were +again exposed to danger on the river, which was so agitated, that the +canoe was "tossed about like a cocoa-nut shell." The only method by which +they could escape sinking, was by pulling it among the Tushes on the +banks, which was effected after much labour and difficulty. No sooner did +they conceive themselves safe, than a huge crocodile rose up close to the +canoe, plunging near it with much violence: one blow from him would have +split it to pieces. Shortly after they came to a place where the current +rushed with the impetuosity of a torrent over a broad sand bank; they +were carried along with irresistible velocity, and the canoe struck +against the roof of a hut which was covered with water. + +They now passed the mountains which they had observed on the preceding +day; they were flat table mountains, and appeared to be not far distant +from the bank. One or two were entirely barren, while a few were most +fertile, being covered with corn up to the very summits; they rest +displayed only stunted vegetation. Several villages, surrounded by groups +of tall trees, were situated at their foot. On the 19th October, they +arrived at Egga, a large handsome town, behind a deep morass. It is +upwards of two miles in length, and the people carry on a great trade. A +large number of canoes, laden with merchandize, lie beside the town, and +many of the natives reside in them. Half of the population is Mohammedan. +When they left this place, they were informed that in their farther +progress towards the sea, they would pass through states of an entirely +different character, inhabited by fierce and lawless people, from whom +both their lives and property would be exposed to peril. The friendly +natives exhorted them to return, or at least if they were determined to +persevere, to pass, if possible, the towns by night. + +After they had left Egga, the banks of the river assumed a pleasing +appearance, and were adorned with numerous villages. The Landers observed +a number of canoes, built in the same manner as those of the Bonny and +Calabar rivers, which confirmed them in the opinion that they were +approaching the sea. The natives of one village, when they saw them, +sounded their war-cry, and flew to arms; but their hostility was speedily +exchanged for friendship, when the object of the travellers was +explained. Their next halting-place was Kacunda, which consists of four +large villages, at a considerable distance from each other. The river +here changes its direction to the N.N.E., which the main branch keeps +till it reaches the sea. About forty miles below Kacunda, its volume is +increased by the influx of the Tshadda; at the place of the junction the +river is about three or four miles in breadth, and the Landers saw +numerous canoes floating upon it. They passed a large city, but neither +landed, nor held any communication with the inhabitants; they were +afterwards told that it was called Cuttumcurafee, and was a place of +considerable traffic. + +Some days afterwards the apprehension of a storm induced them to land, +and to erect an awning of mats under the shade of a palm-tree. No +habitation was seen, but the place had evidently been resorted to by a +great number of people. Three of the men, however, who had gone in search +of firewood, suddenly came upon a village, but saw only some women, who +fled in terror from the strangers, and alarmed their male relatives, who +were at work in the fields. They returned to the party, who did not +anticipate any danger from this strange occurrence, till one of the +negroes suddenly cried out, "War is coming! oh, war is coming!" A fierce +band of men, armed with spears, cutlasses, muskets, and bows and arrows, +rushed towards the little encampment. Resistance was vain against such an +overwhelming force, and the only resource of the travellers was to adopt +pacific measures. They threw down their useless weapons, and walked +forward boldly towards the chief. The natives seemed determined to attack +them; the chief's "quiver was dangling at his side, his bow was bent, and +an arrow which was pointed at their breasts, already trembled on the +string. But just as he was about to pull the fatal cord, a man that was +nearest him rushed forward and stayed his arm. At that instant we stood +before them, and immediately held forth our hands; all of them trembled +like aspen-leaves; the chief looked up full in our faces, kneeling on the +ground; light seemed to flash from his dark rolling eyes, his body was +convulsed all over, as though he were enduring the utmost torture, and +with a timorous, yet undefinable expression of countenance, in which all +the passions of our nature were strangely blended, he drooped his head, +eagerly grasped our proffered hands, and burst into tears. This was a +sign of friendship; harmony followed, and war and bloodshed were thought +of no more." His followers showed equal delight. They gave repeated +shouts, thrust their arrows into their quivers, fired off their muskets, +shook their spears, danced, laughed, sung, and cried in succession, and +in short behaved like madmen. The chief sat down on the turf, with the +Landers on each side of him, while his men stood around leaning on their +weapons. Employing an interpreter who understood the Haussa language, the +chief stated, that he had taken them for a hostile party, who meditated a +midnight attack upon the village, to carry away the inhabitants as +slaves, but that his heart had relented when he saw them approach in +peaceful and friendly guise, and that he had thought that they were +"_children of heaven_" who had dropped from the skies. "And now," said he +"white men, all I ask is your forgiveness." "That you shall have most +heartily," said the travellers, shaking hands with him cordially; and +they internally returned thanks to God for this signal preservation. + +Fifty miles farther on, they came to Damugoo, the chief of which place +gave them a very kind reception, and sent a canoe, manned by some of his +subjects to accompany and guide them to the coast. Yet he was a +tyrannical despot, and told the travellers to cut off the heads of his +people, if they annoyed them by crowding to see them. Here they saw +manifest traces of European intercourse; the natives wore Manchester +cottons, and the chief presented the travellers with a case bottle of +rum, a liquor which they had not tasted since they left Kiama. + +About a mile from Damugoo, they saw two streams which appeared to be +branches of the Niger; one of which came from the eastward, while the +other flowed from the westward. At the junction formed by this latter +branch with the river, they saw a large town, called Kirree, in front of +which lay a great number of canoes. They appeared to be very large, and +had flags flying at the end of long bamboo canes. The travellers passed +without molestation; but in a short time came in contact with a fleet of +fifty war canoes, each of which had a six-pounder lashed to the stern, +and the crews were well provided with muskets. From their masts fluttered +a great number of European flags of various nations, among which the +British union bore a prominent place; some had also figures on them of a +man's leg, chairs, tables, decanters, glasses, &c. The crews were chiefly +dressed in European clothing. As the travellers came up separately, the +canoes of each were attacked and plundered. Their lives were in jeopardy, +and at length they were compelled to proceed to the town of Kirree. Here, +however, several of the well-disposed and more respectable inhabitants +espoused their cause, and that part of the stolen property which could be +recovered was ordered to be restored. It was at last decided that they +should be brought down the river, and placed at the disposal of Obie, the +king of the Eboe country. During the attack, Richard Lander's journal was +lost, but his brother John's notes were fortunately preserved. The most +valuable part of their property was likewise gone, and among the rest +their wearing apparel, Mr. Park's gun, all their other weapons, their +compass and thermometer, and their cowries and needles, so that they were +left completely destitute. + +As the Landers were carried down the river, the country on the banks +completely changed its appearance, being low and swampy, covered with +vast entangled forests, which completely concealed the towns and +villages, of whose existence the travellers were nevertheless apprised by +the number of inhabitants who came to the beach to trade with the +canoemen. The people subsisted chiefly on the produce of the banana, the +plantain, and the yam, and on the fish which they caught in the river. +The chief article of traffic was palm-oil. + +As they drew near to Eboe, they sailed through a large lake on the river, +which branched out into three broad streams, which take different +directions towards the south-west; whence they felt assured that they +were rapidly approaching the termination of the river's course in the +Gulf of Guinea. The pleasure which they felt in the hope of soon solving +the mysterious problem which had been hid for so many ages, was however +damped by the thought of their precarious situation, and the hostile +reception which they might meet with at Eboe. + +They came to an extensive morass, intercepted by narrow channels in every +direction. Passing through one of these, they got into clear water, and +arrived in front of Eboe town. Here they found hundreds of canoes, some +of which were much larger than any they had hitherto seen, being +furnished with sheds and awnings, and affording habitations to a great +number of the people, who constantly reside in them. The travellers say +that one of these canoes, hollowed out of a single trunk, may accommodate +seventy individuals. The houses of the people of Eboe are of a superior +kind, and are constructed of yellow clay plastered over, thatched with +palm leaves, and surrounded by plantations. The people are a savage and +dissolute race, and the bad expression of their countenances is a true +index of their character. + +King Obie determined to detain the Landers till he could extort a large +sum for their ransom. He demanded the sum of twenty _bars_ (each equal to +one slave or a cask of palm oil). The travellers had the prospect of +being detained for an indefinite period, had not King Boy of Brass-town, +Obie's son-in-law, undertaken to pay the amount, and convey them to the +coast, on condition of receiving a guarantee for thirty-five bars, being +determined to retain the difference as profit for his trouble. King Boy +then went to the mouth of the river with Richard Lander, John being left +at Brass-town. The English brig Thomas, commanded by Captain Lake, was +then lying at anchor in the Nun, and Richard Lander went on board, in the +hope that Lake would advance the sum, which was sure to be repaid by the +British Government. He, however, had no sympathy towards his distressed +countrymen, and peremptorily refused to grant them any assistance, and +King Boy was with difficulty prevailed upon to bring John Lander to the +brig, Richard trusting that the hard-hearted captain would by that time +relent. Both brothers were now on board, and were employing all the means +in their power to induce Lake to consent to the arrangement; but in place +of doing so, he set sail, leaving King Boy to exclaim against what he no +doubt considered the treachery of the travellers. The British Government, +however, afterwards caused King Boy to be paid more than the sum which he +had stipulated for. + +The Landers suffered much discomfort on board the vessel from the +tyrannical and harsh behaviour of Lake; and they encountered a severe +storm in crossing the bar of the river Nun. On the 1st of December, they +landed at Fernando Po, where they experienced great friendship and +hospitality from the British residents. Thence they found a passage home +in the Carnarvon, and arrived at Portsmouth on the 10th June 1831. + +The great problem of African geography was now solved, and the +enterprising travellers met with the praise so justly due to their +sagacity, prudence, and fortitude. "For several hundred miles of its +lower course, the river was found to form a broad and magnificent +expanse, resembling an inland sea. Yet must the Niger yield very +considerably to the Missouri and Orellana, those stupendous rivers of the +new world. But it appears at least as great as any of those which water +the old continents. There can rank with it only the Nile, and the +Yang-tse-Kiang, or Great River of China. But the upper course of neither +is yet very fully established; and the Nile can compete only in length of +course, not in the magnitude of its stream, or the fertility of the +regions. There is one feature in which the Niger may defy competition +from any river, either of the old or new world. This is the grandeur of +its Delta. Along the whole coast, from the river of Formosa or Benin to +that of Old Calabar, about 300 miles in length, there open into the +Atlantic its successive estuaries, which navigators have scarcely been +able to number. Taking its coast as the base of the triangle or Delta, +and its vertex at Kirree, about 170 miles inland, we have a space of +upwards of 25,000 square miles, equal to the half of England. Had this +Delta, like that of the Nile, been subject only to temporary inundations, +leaving behind a layer of fertilizing slime, it would have formed the +most fruitful region on earth, and might have been almost the granary of +a continent. But, unfortunately, the Niger rolls down its waters in such +excessive abundance, as to convert the whole into a huge and dreary +swamp, covered with dense forests of mangrove, and other trees of +spreading and luxuriant foliage. The equatorial sun, with its fiercest +rays, cannot penetrate these dark recesses; it only exhales from them +pestilential vapours, which render this coast the theatre of more fatal +epidemic diseases than any other, even of Western Africa. That human +industry will one day level these forests, drain these swamps, and cover +this soil with luxuriant harvests, we may confidently anticipate; but +many ages must probably elapse before man, in Africa, can achieve such a +victory over nature."[29] + + [29] Edinburgh Review, vol. 55. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + + +_The Steam Voyage of the Quorra and Alburkah_. + +The peculiar characteristic of British enterprise is in general its +practical tendency; wherever a way is opened which promises to afford a +competent return for labour and even hazard, the path is pursued; and +though the advantage may not be immediately held out, the experiment is +nevertheless made. Notwithstanding that the remarkable voyage of which we +are about to give some account, failed in effecting the desired end, +enough was done to shew the possibility of establishing commercial +intercourse between Britain and Interior Africa, when due care and +management are employed in the choice of that season of the year when the +influence of the climate is comparatively little felt. + +Some Liverpool merchants being desirous of opening a trade with the +countries on the banks of the Niger, by the exchange of British +manufactures for native produce, fitted out two steam boats: one of +which, the Quorra, was of 150 tons, and of the ordinary construction; +while the other, the Alburkah, was only of 57 tons. The latter vessel was +entirely iron-built, with the exception of her decks; her bottom was 1/4 +of an inch in thickness, her sides from 3/18 to 1/8 of an inch. She was +seventy feet in length, 13 in beam, 6-1/2 in depth, and had an engine of +16-horse power. The great inconvenience apprehended from the vessel was, +that from her construction, the crew would suffer much from heat; but so +far from this having been the case, the iron, being an universal +conductor, kept her constantly at the same temperature with the water. To +these vessels was added the Columbine, a sailing brig of 150 tons, which +was intended to remain at the mouth of the river, to receive the goods +brought down by the steam-boats. + +Richard Lander volunteered his valuable services to this expedition,--the +last in which he was destined to take part; Messrs. Laird and Oldfield, +with a considerable number of Europeans also embarked. They left England +about the end of July 1832, and arrived off the Nun on the 19th of +October, after having touched at Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and +other settlements, to lay in provisions, and secure the services of some +Kroomen.[30] + + [30] The Kroomen inhabit the country which extends along the coast, + from Simon River to Capes Palmas and Lahoo; they voluntarily engage + themselves in bands to aid the crews of vessels. + +Having safely moored the brig, they proceeded to unload the merchandize +on board of her, and to transfer it to the steam-vessels. They then began +to sail up the Nun branch of the Niger. This part of the river is most +unhealthy; it is one entire swamp, covered with mangrove, cabbage, and +palm trees. "The fen-damp rose in the morning cold and clammy to the +feeling, and appeared like the smoke of a damp wood fire." The bodies of +the natives are covered with ulcers and cutaneous eruptions; they spend a +short and miserable life in profligacy. After they had gone up about +thirty miles, the banks had an appearance of greater consistency, and the +beautiful, but deadly mangrove tree was no longer visible. The river was +now about 300 yards broad, and from four to five fathoms deep. They met +with no obstruction from the natives, till they came to Eboe, where an +unfortunate quarrel took place, which seems to have arisen from a mere +misunderstanding. The discharge of a gun had been agreed upon as the +signal from the Alburkah for the Quorra to anchor; which being fired +after dark, before the village, alarmed the natives, who opened a brisk +discharge of musketry from the banks. The voyagers found it necessary to +put a stop to this attack, by the discharge of their great guns, and in +about twenty minutes the musketry from the shore was silenced. At +day-break they made farther reprisals, and in order to terrify the +natives, landed and set fire to the village--an act of barbarity which +appears to have been entirely gratuitous and uncalled for. After they had +passed the scene of this unfortunate rencontre, the river increased in +breadth to one thousand yards; the banks were higher, and the woods were +more frequently diversified with plantations of bananas, plantains and +yams. Soon after they anchored off Eggaboo, to take in a supply of wood; +it was the first town which they had observed built at a short distance +from the river, and not upon its margin. It contained about two hundred +houses, each of which was surrounded with a bamboo fence about nine feet +high. They gratified King Obie by a visit, who gave them various +presents, and also visited the steamers in state, escorted by upwards of +sixty canoes, seven of which were of great size, and were each manned by +crews of seventy men. Palm oil is produced in large quantities at Eboe; +but the people are chiefly occupied in slave-hunting. As may be expected, +their disposition is cruel and revengeful,--they live in the daily +practice of the most flagrant vice and immorality. + +On the night of the 9th November, they departed from Eboe, and were +guided through the intricate and dangerous navigation by the light of a +brilliant moon. After two days they anchored about 15 miles from the +town. The river was here at least 3000 yards broad; and afterwards when +it had thrown off its two great branches, the Benin and the Bonny, was +about 1500 yards wide, divided by sandy islands overgrown with grass. One +of the vessels grounded, but after half-an-hour's hard labour was got +off. In the course of the same evening they were surrounded by canoes, +which brought goats, yams, plantains, and bananas for sale. + +The effect of the climate and of their stay near the swamps now became +fatally manifest. In the Quorra, fourteen men died, and three in the +Alburkah. The disproportion of mortality in the two vessels, at this +period, is ascribed to the superior coolness of the Alburkah, which was +rendered more healthy in consequence of her iron hull diffusing through +her interior the coolness of the surrounding water. + +They next anchored off Attah, a picturesque town, situated on the top of +a hill which rises nearly 300 feet above the river. The view from the +town is said to be grand and extensive. Here Mr. Laird saw an alligator +captured by two natives, in an ingenious and daring manner. "He was +discovered basking on a bank in the river, a short distance ahead of the +vessels. Two natives in a canoe immediately paddled to the opposite side +of the bank, and having landed, crept cautiously towards him. As soon as +they were near the animal, one of the natives stood up from his crouching +position, holding a spear about six feet long, which with one blow he +struck through the animal's tail into the sand. A most strenuous contest +immediately ensued; the man with the spear holding it in the sand as +firmly as his strength allowed him, and clinging to it as it became +necessary to shift his position with the agility of a monkey; while his +companion occasionally ran in as opportunity offered, and with much +dexterity gave the animal a thrust with his long knife, retreating at the +same moment from, without the reach of its capacious jaws, as it whirled +round upon the extraordinary pivot which his companion had so +successfully placed in its tail. The battle lasted about half an hour, +terminating in the slaughter of the alligator, and the triumph of his +conquerors, who were not long in cutting him into pieces and loading +their canoes with his flesh, which they immediately carried to the shore +and retailed to their countrymen. The success of the plan depended +entirely on the nerve and dexterity of the man who pinned the animal's +tail to the ground; and his contortions and struggles to keep his +position were highly entertaining." + +They were now within the district of the Kong Mountains, which are of a +tabular form, and rise on both sides to between 2000 or 2500 feet. The +change of prospect was most grateful to those who had spent two months in +a flat, marshy, and uninteresting country. These mountains lie in the +direction of W.N.W. and E.S.E., where they are intersected by the Niger. +Their outlines are extremely bold, and they appear to be chiefly composed +of granite. The navigation of the channel between them is full of danger, +as large fragments of granite have fallen into the stream, and produced +eddies and shoals. At a little distance beyond this point, a noble +prospect opened before the Voyagers. "An immense river, about three +thousand yards wide, extending as far as the eye could reach, lay before +us, flowing majestically between its banks, which rose gradually to a +considerable height, and were studded with clumps of trees and brushwood, +giving them the appearance of a gentleman's park; while the smoke rising +from different towns on its banks, and the number of canoes floating on +its bosom, gave it an aspect of security and peace." Here the vessel ran +aground with a violent shock, and they experienced the greatest +difficulty in relieving her. + +A great misfortune happened to the expedition a little above Attah. The +Quorra again ran aground, near the confluence of the Tshadda with the +Niger, and all their efforts to extricate her proved vain; she was +stopped for four months, after which the rising of the water lifted her +up. + +Mr. Laird, accompanied by Dr. Briggs, visited Addakudda, which was the +largest town in sight from the vessel on the western bank of the river; +it is situated on an eminence of granite, which gives it the appearance +of a fortified place. It contains about 5000 inhabitants, but like most +African towns, is dirty and ill-constructed. Here they saw the method +used by the natives for dying cloth with indigo, which is extremely rude +and inartificial; and the effect seems to be produced solely by the +superior quality of the indigo, and the quantity employed. Little ivory +is exposed for sale in the market, cloth, and provisions forming the +chief articles of traffic. + +As any farther progress was for a time entirely prevented, Mr. Laird +resolved to travel towards Fundah, in order to ascertain whether any +opening for commerce could be found there. After journeying about forty +miles, by land and water, he arrived in a state of great debility, and +experienced a most inhospitable reception from the king, who pilfered +from him as much as he could, and detained him in his own residence for +some time, threatening to put him to death if he attempted to escape. He +was only allowed to depart in consequence of several devices, which +operated powerfully upon the superstitious fears of the king and his +subjects. + +The town of Fundah, which is very extensive, is situated on the western +extremity of an immense plain, about nine miles distant from the northern +bank of the river Shary. To the eastward the country is rich and +beautiful. The town is built in the form of a crescent, and is surrounded +by a ditch, and a wall about twelve feet high. A considerable space +intervenes between the houses and the walls. The streets are narrow and +dirty, with the exception of one a mile in length, and about two hundred +feet wide; where the market is held every Friday. "The houses are all +circular with conical huts built of clay, with the exception of the chief +Mallam's, which has a gable end to it. The verandahs in the front give +them a cool and pleasant appearance." The king's residence would appear +to be the citadel, as it is surrounded by a wall pierced with many +loopholes. Mr. Laird estimates the population at 15,000, who are chiefly +employed in extensive dye-works, and in the manufacture of iron and +copper utensils. + +Soon after this, Mr. Laird having resolved to abandon the expedition, +returned to Fernando Po in the Quorra. Dr. Briggs, the medical officer +attached to the expedition, had died in February; and only three or four +of the original crew of the vessel survived. + +We shall now follow Mr. Oldfield's narrative. As Mr. Laird was on his +return to Fernando Po, he passed the Alburkah, with Messrs. Lander and +Oldfield on board, on their way to Boussa. They entered the Tshadda on +the 2d August, and sailed 104 miles up the stream, till the want of +provisions compelled them to return to the Niger. They remained for some +time at Kacunda, Egga, and Rabba, but their efforts to open a trade with +the natives were by no means successful. At Rabba, they were compelled to +return, in consequence of the steamer's engine having sustained some +damage. They returned to the sea-coast, but had scarcely arrived when +Lander departed to Cape Coast Castle to procure a supply of cowries. Mr. +Oldfield proceeded with the Alburkah to meet him. The voyage was slow, +for the machinery had got out of order; great mortality prevailed on +board the vessel; the Kroometi began to disobey orders; and there were +rumours abroad, that the natives, knowing their weakness and diminished +numbers, intended to attack and plunder the vessel. On the 28th of March, +Mr. Oldfield received a letter from Richard Lander, which stated that his +boat had been attacked, three of the crew killed, and himself wounded; +that the other three men who were with him had been seriously hurt; that +they had been plundered of every thing, and had with difficulty escaped. +This fatal accident happened when he was opposite to the towns called +Hyamma and Ikibree. The natives tempted by the value of the goods which +he carried with him in several canoes, opened a fire of musketry upon +him. Lander and his men defended themselves as long as they could, but +they were at length compelled to flee. Their pursuers continued to fire; +and as Lander stooped to take up some ammunition, he received a musket +shot, and the ball lodged in the upper part of his thigh. The wound at +first seemed slight, and he was enabled to reach Fernando Po; but all +efforts to extract the ball were useless, and mortification of the +muscles having ensued, he expired on the thirteenth day after the attack. + +The Alburkah proceeded up the river no farther than Attah, where Mr. +Oldfield procured a considerable quantity of ivory. The greater part of +the crew had been cut off by fever and dysentery, four only being fit for +duty. As soon, therefore, as Mr. Oldfield heard of Mr. Lander's death, he +resolved to return to the coast, which he reached in July 1834. + +We have now completed the sketch of those discoveries in Central Africa, +which have taken place since the time of Park, and have endeavoured to +make it as interesting as our restricted limits permitted. The scenery +through which we have passed has been varied and sometimes beautiful; but +the beauty has been wild and uncultivated, and has been more than +counterbalanced by the oft-times stern aspect of nature, darkened by the +frowns of an ungenial and unhealthy sky, in too faithful keeping with the +actions of savage men, cruel and revengeful, sunk in vice and immorality. +The narrative has been one of suffering and untimely death; one +adventurer after another has gone forth, while scarcely one has returned +from his toilsome and perilous wanderings; and the melancholy list has +been closed by the fate of him who had the proud honour of tracing the +termination of the mysterious river. Though each has displayed high and +peculiar qualities of mind, not one has surpassed him whose energy and +force of character in a great measure paved the way for succeeding +travellers. Yet none will have fallen in vain, inasmuch as each has done +something to point out the way whereby the blessings of civilization may +be conveyed to the natives of Africa. The time may yet be distant, but it +will assuredly come, when commerce and enlightenment shall be conveyed by +the great channel of the Niger; when slavery shall be finally and for +ever destroyed; and when, above all, the same blessed influence shall +pervade Central, which had already done so much good in Southern Africa; +when the voice of the missionary, which has been already blessed in +raising up from the ground the degraded Hotentot, shall be heard in the +huts that border the great river; when the natives shall cast away their +idols, and with them, those vices which degrade and sully their +character. + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Life and Travels of Mungo Park in +Central Africa, by Mungo Park + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA *** + +This file should be named 8564-8.txt or 8564-8.zip + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Beginners Projects, Beth Trapaga, +Tonya Allen, Steen Christensen, Thomas Berger, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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