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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/9408-8.txt b/9408-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b16b4a --- /dev/null +++ b/9408-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4124 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of By Water to the Columbian Exposition +by Johanna S. Wisthaler + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: By Water to the Columbian Exposition + +Author: Johanna S. Wisthaler + +Release Date: December, 2005 [EBook #9408] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on September 30, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Clare Boothby +and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + +[Transcriber's note: The non-standard spellings of the original text +have been retained in this etext.] + + + + BY WATER + TO THE + COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION + + + BY + JOHANNA S. WISTHALER. + + 1894 + + + +"Travel is the great source of true wisdom." + --_Bearensfield_ + + + + + +To my amiable traveling companions, + +Mr. S.R. James and family, + + and + +Miss Sarah E. Campbell, + +this volume is affectionately inscribed + + + + +PREFACE + + +It has been the aim of the author: to combine a detailed narrative of her +trip by water to the White City with a faithful description of the ever +memorable Columbian Exposition as far as possible consistent with the +scope of this work. Every opportunity has been embraced by the writer to +incorporate the historical events, scientific facts, and natural phenomena +most appropriate to the subject. + +The author also acknowledges her indebtedness to the Lake Shore & Michigan +Southern Railway Co. as well as her obligations to the Winters Art Litho +Co. in Chicago. She wishes to express her gratitude to the first-mentioned +corporation for having presented her with a map illustrative of the route; +thus enabling the reader to trace the numerous towns and cities--on the +Erie Canal and three Great Lakes--whose history and attractions have been +depicted in this book. + +The Lake Shore Route--selected by the Government to run the famous Fast +Mail Trains--is the only double track line between Chicago, Cleveland, +Buffalo, New York, and Boston.--During the existence of the White City, +the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway Co. placed in service special +trains for the purpose of facilitating railway transportation between the +eastern cities and the "Queen of the West." The "Exposition Flyer," which +accomplished nearly 1,000 miles in twenty hours from Chicago to New York, +an average of about fifty miles per hour, was certainly one of the fastest +trains in the World. + +To the aid of the Winters Art Litho Co. the author owes her capability of +furnishing this volume with a novel illustration of the World's Fair.--A +gold medal was awarded to this firm for the excellence in their water +color fac-simile reproductions and advancement in legitimate lithography. +The credit of improvements in materially reducing the number of printings, +and still maintaining excellence in results, was conceded to them by the +Judges.--This company kindly permitted the author to use their copyright +of the revised and most correct Bird's Eye View of the Exposition Grounds +extant, which gives the readers a very adequate conception of that +marvelous creation that--while existing only for such a brief period--has +accomplished its mission in the highest degree, and has opened a new era +in the annals of modern progress. + +SCHENECTADY, N.Y., December, 1893. + + + + +CONTENTS + +INTRODUCTION + +CHAPTER I _Voyage on the Erie Canal_ + Departure from Schenectady, N Y + Amsterdam, Canajoharie, Little Falls + Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Lyons + Palmyra, Rochester, Lockport + +CHAPTER II _Sojourn in Buffalo and Visit to Niagara falls_. + Buffalo Harbor + City of Buffalo + Mill's Dry Dock + Niagara Falls, American Horseshoe and Central Falls + +CHAPTER III _Voyage on Three Great Lakes_ + _Lake Erie_ + Dunkirk, Erie, Conneaut + Cleveland + Amherstburg + Detroit River + City of Detroit + Lake St Clair + River St Clair + Port Huron, Sarnia + _Lake Huron_ + Sand Beach Beacon Saginaw Bay, Tawas City, Alpena + Rock-bound on Gull Island Ledge + False Presqu'ile, Cheboygan + Straits of Mackinaw, Mackinaw Island + _Lake Michigan_ + Beaver Island, Northport + Frankfort, Manistee, Muskegon + South Haven, Life Saving Service + Michigan City, White City + +CHAPTER IV _Stay in Chicago and Visit to the World's Fair_ + _A Round Trip on the Exposition Grounds_ + _Visit to the Midway Plaisance_ + Diamond Match Co, Workingmen's Home + Congress of Beauty, California Nursery and Citrus Tree + Exhibit + Electric Scenic Theater, Libbey Glass Works + Irish Village and Donegal Castle, Japanese Bazaar + Javanese Village, German Village + Pompeii Panorama. Persian Theater + Model of the Eiffel Tower, Street in Cairo + Algerian and Tunisian Village, Kilauea Panorama + American Indian Village, Chinese Village + Wild East Show, Lapland Village + Dahomey Village, Austrian Village + Ferris Wheel, Ice Railway + Cathedral of St. Peter in miniature, Moorish Palace + Turkish Village, Panorama of the Bernese Alps + South Sea Islanders' Village. Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena + Irish Village and Blarney Castle, etc. + _Visit to the Exposition Structures_. + Manufactures Building and on Manufactures + U.S. Government Building and on the Development of the + Republic + Fisheries Building and on Fisheries + Agricultural Building and on Agriculture + Live Stock Exhibit, Dairy and Forestry Buildings + Palace of Mechanical Arts and on Machinery + Administration Building + Electricity Building and on Electricity, the "Golden or + Happy Age" + Mines and Mining Building and on Minerals + Transportation Building and on Railroad, Marine, and + Ordinary Road Vehicle Conveyances + Palace of Horticulture and on Horticulture + Liberal Arts Building. Educational Exhibits + _Chicago, its Growth and Importance_ + Woman's Building and on Women + Art Palace and on Art + Anthropological Building + Foreign and State Buildings + Financial Account of the World's Fair + Statistical Table of International Expositions + +CONCLUSION + + + +INTRODUCTION + +Experience, this greatest of all teachers, will undoubtedly have convinced +many of my readers that the most delightful voyage is only capable of +maintaining its charms when made amidst congenial fellow-travelers. The +grandest scenes can be fully enjoyed and duly appreciated when viewed +through an atmosphere of physical comfort. Thus, in order to demonstrate +the accuracy of the assertion: + + Voyaging with Mr. James and his family was + attractive and enjoyable to me in every respect, + +I must make the reader acquainted with my amiable traveling companions, as +well as with their floating home, the beautiful steam yacht "Marguerite." + +Her owner, _Captain S. R. James_, is a stately, fine-looking, accomplished +gentleman, and quite a linguist. To me it was a source of unusual pleasure +to discuss French and German literature occasionally during our voyage +with one who has given so much attention to these languages. + +Mr. James was styled by the Buffalo Courier "a typical New Yorker;" but he +impresses me more as a typified English gentleman of the thorough school, +and this impression is confirmed as I reflect upon his conduct to those +fortunate enough to be associated with him in any capacity. + +I trust the reader will pardon me if I warmly eulogize MR. JAMES, his +lovely WIFE and their FOUR sweet CHILDREN, together with Miss SARAH E. +CAMPBELL, the very amiable sister of Mrs. James--who were my traveling +companions on this eventful trip; for, certainly, I was extremely +fortunate in my _compagnons de voyage_, whom I have thus introduced to the +reader. They abandoned their lovely home for the purpose of undertaking +the gigantic enterprise of making a canal and lake voyage to the White +City. + +The reader may well judge that sailing on a yacht presents innumerable +novelties and advantages not attainable by any other conveyance. Since the +parties on board a pleasure-boat concentrate all their thoughts to the +expected enjoyments they cast aside all irksome forms and strait-laced +habitudes, delivering themselves up to the free air to live less +conventionally than at home. The preferableness of such an existence, +freed from all unnecessary ceremonies, is still more perceptible when the +trip is of long duration and having, moreover, for its terminus the +World's Columbian Exposition, a place where the wonders, beauties, and +evidences of nature's power and man's skill are gathered from all lands. + +The great anticipations we had of our unique voyage were justified in +every respect. For it offered us the opportunity to store our memories +with that which will never die, and to adorn them with pictures whose +colors will never fade. + +All this will be revealed subsequently to my courteous reader, who is +cordially invited to follow me now on board the steam yacht, which formed +our home for six eventful weeks. + +What first strikes the observer on approaching the "Marguerite," are the +graceful lines which run from the sharp, slightly bent stem to the +well-rounded stern. So beautiful is her form, and so majestically does she +rest upon the water, that you will have no difficulty to recognize her, +even at a great distance. You observe that she is painted with taste, and +all the mouldings are gilded; you also perceive that the railings are of +oak wood, surmounted by finely polished brass, and the deck of narrow deal +planks is as white as snow. There is nothing wanting to make her equipment +harmonize with the requirements of the present era. She has a length of a +hundred feet, a width of about fifteen, with a draught of five feet eight +inches; being fitted out for both steam and sail navigation. + +Now, dear reader, let us go below. If you consent, we will first visit the +engine-room, since it contains the most essential part of the working +machinery. A force of from eighty-five to ninety horse-power is developed +to propel the boat. The engine is of the triple expansion type; the +diameters of the cylinders being 6-1/2, 10 and 16 inches respectively. + +Are you not pleased with this piece of machinery, so elegantly finished +and neatly polished? From it you can conclude that the yacht is capable of +running with considerable speed, amounting to thirteen miles an hour, if +desired. + +Let us descend to the cabin next; can anything be more tasteful and +convenient? Is it not luxurious? And, although small, does not its very +limited space astonish you when you view so many comforts? This is the +dining-room. What can be more complete! Just look at this side-board, with +its sumptuous outfit in silver and crystal. _A multum in parvo._ + +The kitchen is admirably arranged; the spacious refrigerator making it +possible that a considerable amount of all sorts of provisions and +delicacies can be kept on board for some time. + +Let us peep into the cozy staterooms. Are they not nicely furnished? +Glance at the large and comfortable berths, which can be extended so as to +form double berths, as in a Pullman car. All the rooms receive light, +either through side-windows or from the upper deck. Every facility for +enjoying open air exercise is offered by the main deck running the whole +length of the ship. The portion pertaining to the stern is especially +commodious, and constituted our dining-room on pleasant days. Even when +the weather was unfavorable, the awnings which inclosed this delightful +place formed an excellent shelter, giving the impression we were living in +a large tent. + +Thus, you observe, that nothing is omitted to secure comfort. Do you see +this electric bell? Well, all the staterooms are provided with such bells, +which are connected with the steward's pantry. + +Now, let us go forward. These two doors form the entrance to the +pilot-house; please, step in. Here is the steering wheel, and by means of +these brass tubes the steersman communicates with the engineer. Look up +to the ceiling. It is decorated with multitudinous charts and maps. Before +we leave this room do not forget to glance at the mariner's compass in its +elegant brass case. + +Close by is the entrance to the fore-castle, which contains the men's +berths. The crew occupying them consists of the captain, the engineer, the +cook, the steward, and the seamen. + +There not being accommodation for more female servants, Mrs. James was +attended by only one maid. She, however, could easily spare larger +retinue, because this excellent girl has assisted her mistress in +performing the manifold domestic duties for more than fourteen years, and +during this long period Mrs. James has learned to value her for her +dexterity in all female occupations. She is also a faithful guardian of +the children for whom she tenderly cares. + +Flattering myself that I have given my kind readers a satisfactory, +introductory description, I shall now advance with the narrative, and +proceed on our journey, traversing the longest artificial waterway ever +constructed by human hands; and sailing on the unsteady billows of the +great lakes, which contain the largest amount of sweet water on the globe, +in order to visit the World's Fair, the grandest and most complete +exposition that human eyes ever beheld. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VOYAGE ON THE ERIE CANAL FROM JULY 22ND, 10.40 A.M., TILL JULY 29TH, 1.30 +P.M. + + +Finally, the 22nd of July, the day appointed for our departure, had +arrived. Great was my satisfaction to find the auspices predicting fine +weather; and, indeed, it was as beautiful as if Heaven smiled on our +enterprise. When taking leave of my neighbors, it was not at all with a +sad sentiment, for I had been well aware that I was going to undertake a +trip which but few mortals are so fortunate as to participate. + +Accompanied by my dear parents I went to Dock street, where the +"Marguerite" lay all ready for leaving the flourishing city of +Schenectady. + +My mother, whose domestic duties recalled her to the hearth at home, was +compelled to leave me, while my father remained on board the yacht, +anxious to enjoy my company as long as circumstances would permit. +Therefore, he gladly accepted Mr. James's kind invitation to accompany us +on our journey for a short distance. + +Three intimate friends of Mr. James and his family were also invited +guests on the boat. These temporary traveling companions were Dr. A. +Veeder, Lawyer Charles Hastings and Congressman S.J. Schermerhorn, three +well known and highly estimated gentlemen from Schenectady. + +At 11.40 A.M., Mr. James gave orders to haul in the lines attaching the +boat to the shore; and a gun-shot at departing announced to the numerous +spectators that the "Marguerite" was on the point to set out for her +unusual, but most interesting trip. + +We had been sailing only a very short distance, and were just facing the +buildings of the General Electric Company, when our attention was +attracted by a photographer who seemed to be very desirous of taking a +photo of the yacht and her passengers; for he aspired to gain the most +favorable posture, apparently quite a task under the circumstances. How +well he succeeded in his endeavors, the readers can judge for themselves +by glancing at the frontispiece of this book. + +Resuming our journey, we soon had opportunity to admire the beautiful and +fertile Mohawk Valley, once the home of one of the tribes composing the +Five Nations. Arendt Van Curler, the noble founder of the "Place Beyond +the Pines," pronounced this picturesque region the most beautiful the eye +of man had ever beheld, at a time when the country was yet in its infancy. +Though great changes have taken place since that remote date (1642), the +grandeur of the scenes spread before us evidently showed that the country +has lost little of its beauty, even at the present day, nothwithstanding +the white man has established in many places his smoking factories and +noisy looms. + +At the second lock Mr. Schermerhorn, who owns a beautiful residence near +this place, in the Township of Rotterdam, joined our party, whereupon we +continued sailing on the smooth surface of the canal with accelerated +speed. + +At 2.40 P.M., after having passed five locks, we approached _Amsterdam_, +an enterprising and prosperous city of over 20,000 inhabitants, located in +the midst of romantic scenery. We halted at Port Jackson for a few +minutes, since this was the terminus of the voyage of Mr. Hastings and my +father. + +When parting with me, my father said: + +"This short tour has sufficed me to perceive how delightful your voyage +promises to be in company with this amiable family. Thus I leave you, +feeling very happy that so many pleasures and enjoyments are awaiting +you." + +I answered his kind words with a hearty parting kiss, as a token of my +filial love. + +The two gentlemen, after having abandoned the yacht, ascended the bridge +that spans the canal at that point; and bidding us farewell once more, +they pursued us with their eyes until the graceful lines of the +"Marguerite" had become invisible in the distance. + +Continuing our voyage, I was in perfect rapture with the ever varying +magnificence of the luxuriant Mohawk Valley. In the afternoon the sky +became overcast and the quietude that had been prevailing was interrupted +by a thunder-clap, which gave us the signal to prepare for a shower. After +the expiration of a few minutes the full-charged clouds poured their +deluge upon mother earth. This natural phenomenon, however, was only of +short duration; but sufficient to render the atmosphere most delightfully +pure and refreshing. It was now a redoubled pleasure to view the many +hills and dales, adorned in every shade of verdure, varying with romantic +forest scenes; all mingling into one inexpressibly rich garniture in which +Nature had royally clad herself in order to give us greeting on our way. + +As we reached Fultonville, a suburban village of Fonda, about twenty-six +miles from Schenectady, Dr. Veeder and Congressman Schermerhorn parted +with us, wishing us a pleasurable voyage. + +The "Marguerite," gliding along, neared the vicinity of Sprakers when +suddenly the "heaven grew black again with the storm-cloud's frown," and a +flash of lightning illuminated the sky with crimson radiance. It is for a +moment as if the horizon was in flames, a spectacle glorious to behold. +Another minute and a peal of thunder reaches our ears. Then the dark, +heavy clouds discharge their contents in copious abundance. + + "In grateful silence earth receives + The general blessing: fresh and fair + Each flower expands its little leaves + As glad the common joy to share." + +While it is still raining, + + "The sun breaks forth, from off the scene + Its floating veil of mist is flung. + And all the wilderness of green + With trembling drops of light is hung." + +A magnificent rainbow, spanning the boundless arch on high, embellishes +this superb panorama. + +As the sunset was bathing all summits in soft, crimson light, and the pale +lustre of the orbed moon appeared in the east, we arrived at +_Canajoharie_. + +This small town, noted for its fine stone quarries, was chosen for our +abode over Sunday, and busy hands carried out the order to safely moor our +craft near the bridge pertaining to the main street. + +When taking a long walk about the town, I found that, although inferior in +size, it is a very desirable place for summer residences; being +beautifully situated on romantic slopes crowned with elegant and tasty +villas. + +Canajoharie is regularly and appropriately laid out with wide, well kept +and adequately lighted thoroughfares, and many citizens reside in spacious +and architecturally ornamented houses. It is a recognized center of trade, +from which agricultural products of all kinds are shipped. + +In the first historic record, dated 1757, the place was styled "Fort +Cannatchocary," and mentioned as a prospering settlement. Incorporated as +a town in 1788, its population has been rapidly increasing since then, +and now is estimated to amount to more than 3,000. + +It was a glorious morning, the 24th of July, as we left Canajoharie. The +sun rose up into a cloudless heaven and poured a flood of gorgeous +splendor over the landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone upon. + +When I entered the pilot-house I found Mr. James, in the absence of the +captain, busy steering the yacht, and in the course of our long voyage I +often had opportunity to admire his abilities as a navigator. On many +occasions I observed that he was very cautious in all his proceedings; +that he took nothing for granted, and was only convinced of a fact when +properly certified by ocular demonstration. + +Engaged in a French conversation with the dexterous commodore, the time, +as well as the vessel, was rapidly gliding along; the latter being +assisted by a little breeze that rippled the surface of the water. So, +after a three miles' ride, we approached _Fort Plain_, which boasts of +numerous factories, and also the largest spring and axle works of the +world. The Clinton Liberal Institute, one of the leading military schools +of the State, occupies a commanding position, overlooking the valley. The +site of old Fort Plain, of revolutionary memory, is within the village +limits. + +Having passed Cox and Mindenville, a route of nine miles brought us into +the proximity of the busy town of _Little Falls_, which has a population +of about 10,000. It is romantically situated, and many elegant dwellings +stand upon steep acclivities, commanding views of grand and attractive +sceneries. The chief products of the numerous manufactories are knit +goods. Little Falls is also one of the principal cheese markets of the +Empire State. The Mohawk river supplies the place with abundant +water-power, having at this point a fall of forty-five feet in half a +mile. + +Still proceeding on our voyage, the town was soon out of sight. The sun +shone with the clearest splendor from the zenith, beautifully illumining +the smiling valleys, wooded hills, sparkling brooks and dimpled lakes, +which makes this landscape scene so attractive. We were unable to leave +our seats on the stern-deck; for everything around us seemed to have +assumed the character of enchantment, and--had I been educated in the +Grecian mythology--I should scarcely have been surprised to find an +assemblage of Dryads, Naiads and Oreads sporting on the plain beside us. + +After having viewed Mohawk, eight miles from Little Falls; Herkimer, a +town of about 5,000 inhabitants; Ilion, with a population of nearly the +same number, and Frankfort, four miles from Utica, we reached the latter +city as + + "The sunset gorgeous dyes, + Paled slowly from the skies," + +having achieved forty-two miles that day. + +_Utica_ contains approximately 47,000 residents. At the time of the +revolution it was a frontier trading-post and the site of Fort Schuyler, +built to guard the settlements against the French and Indians. + +We made arrangements to remain in this city over night. + +A long walk through Utica made us acquainted with a regular and handsomely +built city, which rises from the south bank of the Mohawk River to an +elevation of 150 feet. Among the stately buildings are six large hotels, +the handsome city hall, the postoffice and the bank edifice. There is also +a State Lunatic Asylum. Utica, being in the center of a great dairy +region, has become the most important cheese market in the United States. + +Genesee Street is the principal thoroughfare lined with large blocks of +commercial houses. + +The city has not yet attained its centennial; but during its history of +less than a century it has experienced a wonderful growth, especially +during the last fifty years. + +At 7 o'clock the next morning we resumed our voyage, sailing on the +so-called sixty mile level; having thus the delightful prospect not to +be detained by going through numerous locks. + +We were also _in limine_ of the far-famed lake region, and soon traversed +one of the finest portions of New York State. + +Passing the hamlets of York Mills, Whitesboro and Oriskany, the +"Marguerite" advanced near to the city of _Rome_ towards 10 o'clock A.M. +In its vicinity the famous battle of Oriskany was fought; and Fort +Stanwix, which was besieged by the British in 1777, occupies a site now in +the center of the city of Rome. The latter is laid out with wide streets +well shaded with maples and elms. In the resident portion, a very high +artistic taste has been displayed in the erection of dwelling houses. +Although this thriving city of almost 16,000 inhabitants has not so many +points of interest as its namesake, the ancient metropolis of the glorious +Roman empire, whose wealth of antiquities is perfectly marvelous and whose +relics of classical and papal times are alike almost innumerable; still it +possesses one interesting feature that ought not to be left unmentioned: +It was here that cheese was first made in factories. + +Other important manufactures are merchantable iron, brass and copper, +locomotives and agricultural implements. + +Greatly favored by the clemency of the weather, we sped through this +beautiful region, which is a never ending source of interest to the +tourist, sailing past New London, Grove Springs, Higginsville, Dunbarton, +State Bridge, Durhamville, Lenox Basin, Canastota, New Boston, +Chittenango, Bolivar, Pool's Brook, Kirkville, Manlius and Lodi. At the +latter place the bed of the canal suddenly widens considerably, being +about twice its average width. Entering that portion of the grand +artificial waterway, we found its waters so shallow that we could plainly +discern its rocky bed. + +We entered the city of _Syracuse_ when the last streak of daylight had +faded from the west and the blush on the waters was followed by the +reflection of the far blue arch and its starry host. + +Opposite the city hall, a magnificent structure, the "Marguerite" was made +fast to repose after a fifty-five miles' course that day. + +Syracuse, situated in the heart of New York State, has been appropriately +named the "Central City." Its wonderful growth for the past twenty years +entitles it to rank amongst the foremost cities of the East. It has a +population of nearly 100,000, and is one of the leading manufacturing +towns of the country. For a long period Syracuse practically controlled +the salt product of the United States; in fact, it was that which first +gave the place its importance. The existence of the vast salt springs of +Onondaga was known to the Indians at an early date, and the secret was by +them imparted to the Jesuits in 1654. The State took possession of the +springs in 1794; and laws were passed for the conduct of the manufacture. +Although numerous companies are now engaged in this industry, it +constitutes a comparatively small factor in the commercial interests of +the city, inasmuch as it possesses at the present time over five hundred +industrial establishments; giving employment to not less than twenty +thousand people. + +The city is handsomely laid out, containing many fine public buildings and +private residences. + +When I came on deck the following morning the rain fell in heavy showers. +A cloud appeared to open directly over our heads, and let down the water +almost in one body, but at 7.15, as the violence of the rainfall had +somewhat abated, we departed from Syracuse, sailing past Geddes, Bell'isle +and Canton, where we struck another shallow place in the canal. As we +approached Peru the mists were rolling away, which gradually, as they +became thinner, received and transmitted the rays of the sun; illuminating +them with a golden radiance, increasing every minute in splendor, until +they vanished. + +Therefore, it was a redoubled pleasure to glance at the green plains +studded with yet greener woodlands; the little mountains raising their +crests, and the lovely lakes gleaming like floods of molten silver. + +Thus we journeyed along past Weedsport, Centerport, Port Byron, Montezuma, +Pitt Lock, Clyde and Lock Berlin. + +Nearly midway between Syracuse and Rochester, forty-nine miles from the +former city, we halted, choosing _Lyons_ for our night's lodging. The +town, having a population of almost 6,000, is the seat of Wayne County, +which produces more dried fruit than any other county in the State. The +oil of peppermint forms an important product of manufacture, there being a +score of peppermint distilleries yielding annually more than 100,000 +pounds of this costly oil. + +Thursday, the 27th of July, as the tints of a bright morning reddened the +eastern sky, we pursued our journey, greatly delighted with the cool and +refreshing atmosphere. Speeding along we passed Arcadia; Newark, a +thriving town, numbering about 4,000 inhabitants; and Palmyra, seven miles +beyond, with broad and well shaded streets. + +Two miles south of _Palmyra_ Joe Smith, the founder of Mormonism, claimed +to have dug from a hill, which now bears the name of Mormon Hill, the +golden plates constituting the first Mormon Bible. + +Sailing by the villages of Lower and Upper Macedon, Pittsford was reached; +a beautiful town of more than 3,000 inhabitants and one of the oldest +settlements in that part of the State. Here is located the famous +"Pittsford Farm," which is one of the finest stock farms in the East. It +is at this place that Shetland ponies, Jersey cattle and Angora cats are +raised in great numbers. Uncountable varieties of water-fowl can always be +seen at this point. + +Having passed Brighton, we arrived at _Rochester_ long ere the first gold +dye of sunset was stealing into the vast blue arch on high, having +traveled forty-two miles that day. + +Near the center of the city destined for our nightly abode, a multitude of +curious spectators had assembled in order to view the handsome yacht. I +made the observation that during our entire voyage the "Marguerite," +wherever she made her appearance, was universally admired. + +The important city of Rochester is situated on the Genesee River, seven +miles south of its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is one of the leading +manufacturing cities of the country, having more than 150,000 inhabitants. +In 1802 it was founded by Colonel Nathaniel Rochester, a representative +pioneer of the Genesee River Valley. In 1834 it received its charter as a +city, and has since increased in population and importance with marvelous +rapidity. The fertility of the surrounding country and the splendid +water-power furnished by the Genesee River, together with unexcelled +transportation facilities, have contributed largely to its growth. + +Both in the latter part of the afternoon and evening, we deserted the +yacht for the purpose of admiring the various beauties and points of +interest, which give this town such a far spread reputation. + +We received the conviction that Rochester, in fact, deserves its fame. +Covering an area of about seventeen square miles, it is laid out chiefly +in squares, with streets from sixty to one hundred feet wide, shaded by +beautiful trees. It abounds in handsome and tasteful residences, which are +for the most part surrounded by carefully tended lawns and gardens. Its +fire-proof office buildings and warehouses, are a credit to the city; only +few, even in the metropolis, are equal to them in magnificence. + +In the center of the city are the upper Falls of the Genesee, a +perpendicular cataract of ninety-six feet, over which Sam Patch made his +last and fatal leap. + +To the prominent public institutions of Rochester belong the State +Industrial School, two large hospitals, an Institution for Deaf-Mutes, and +charitable organizations of every description. The principal business +thoroughfare, Main Street, is in the heart of the city, and crosses the +river over a handsome iron bridge. + +The manufactures of Rochester are extensive and varied. In early years +flour was the chief product, giving it the title "Flour City;" there being +no less than eighteen mills within its limits. Rochester might be also +appropriately styled the "Flower City," for its nursery trade is hardly +surpassed by that of any other place in the world. The suburbs are highly +cultivated, having 4,000 acres of fruit trees, and nurseries containing +from 250 to 500 acres. + +Other important industries are cotton and paper mills; oil refineries; +boot and shoe, clothing, furniture, perfumery and tobacco manufactories. + +A feature that attracts thousands of visitors daily, is the great Powers +Art Gallery, the private property of Mr. D.W. Powers, occupying the +greater part of the two upper floors pertaining to the Powers Building. + +In fact, a plentitude of resources makes the city interesting to the +tourist. + +The next day, when "morn was blushing in the sky," we bade farewell to +Rochester; and, sailing on the other sixty-mile level, we continued our +journey through a charming region past Greece, Spencerport, King & Adams, +Cooley's Basin, and arrived at the attractive village of Brockport. +Beautifully situated in the midst of a country teeming with abundance and +inhabited by a prosperous and contented population, it contains many +features of interest. Here is located a State Normal School, and also +several extensive manufactories of agricultural implements. + +Passing Holley, Hulberton and Hindsburg, we came to Albion, the capital of +Orleans County. The latter village is nicely laid out with wide streets +and shaded by large trees. It contains many handsome residences and public +buildings. + +Having proceeded more westward, beyond Eagle Harbor and Knowlesville, we +caught sight of the pleasant town of Medina, about midway between +Rochester and Buffalo, noted for its quarries of dark-red sandstone. +Located in the midst of a fine fruit country, it has the reputation of +being one of the best fruit markets in the State. Speeding through the +thriving villages of Middleport, Reynall's Basin and Cataract Springs, we +neared a deep ravine, through which the Erie Canal passes, following a +natural waterway. Here we met the most remarkable drop of the canal, in +its chain of five continuous double locks, resembling a flight of stairs. + +Entering these, the "Marguerite" gradually rose higher and higher; and +when quitting the last of them, she had been lifted up to an elevation of +sixty feet by these five locks, and if we had not observed the busy hands +working for our ascent, we might have been inclined to imagine that an +invisible cloud was slowly carrying us to unknown regions on high. + +We made _Lockport_ our resting-place for the night; since the sun had +wheeled his broad disk already down into the west and the heavens were +brightened only by the parting smiles of the day. + +Going on shore, we visited Lockport, a prosperous city with about 20,000 +inhabitants, which is the center of a large paper and pulp industry. + +A five hours' journey on Saturday morning, July 29th, past Pendleton, +Picardsville, Martinsville, Tonawanda and Lower Black Rock, completed our +charming trip on the Erie Canal, which has from Schenectady to Buffalo a +length of 323 miles. + +The construction of this great artificial waterway, in all nearly 350 +miles long, having an elevation of about 500 feet above tide water, made +by seventy-two locks, was commenced in 1817, and its completion took place +in 1825. Although this immense undertaking has caused an expense of +$50,000,000, the State of New York has made an excellent investment with +that sum of money; since by means of the Erie Canal the domestic trade +between the large western inland towns and the eastern seaports, +especially the metropolis, is considerably facilitated. This traffic will +receive a still greater importance, and can be more advantageously carried +on, when the plan of utilizing the electric current for the driving power +of canal-boats--a project recently tested by experiments--has been +successfully executed. + +Prior to 1857, this waterway was used for both trade and passenger +transportation. Since the introduction of railroad communication, however, +the canal has been the medium of conveying merchandise only; wherefore, +our interesting trip on the steam-yacht "Marguerite" is one of a few +exceptions to the ordinary routine of the Erie Canal. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +SOJOURN IN BUFFALO AND VISIT TO NIAGARA FALLS, FROM JULY 29TH, 1.30 P.M., +TO AUGUST 2ND, 7 A.M. + + +It was a bright and sunny day; the atmosphere being purified by a strong +but refreshing breeze. As the noonday sun poured his brilliant rays on the +towering hills which adorn the luxuriant banks of the canal, it was +announced that in the distance there could be discerned the dark line +which indicated our approach to the verdant tract encompassing the +thriving city of _Buffalo_, the terminus of our voyage on the Erie Canal. + +While the boat was speeding along, this point upon which our attention was +chiefly fixed, became more cognizable with every minute. Rising upwards to +our left we could perceive domes of the most graceful proportions, +towering structures, for number and form beyond my power to describe. On +the other side, there lay spread before us, in vast expanse, the unrivaled +water front which skirts the city of Buffalo, extending two and one-half +miles along the shore of Lake Erie and two and one-half miles along +Niagara River. + +As we entered the harbor of Buffalo, which is considered the largest and +finest on the lake, we were soon made acquainted with scenes and incidents +that have no common fascination; in fact, one must be surprised at the +tremendous amount of activity displayed here. The scores of huge grain +elevators, having a total capacity of 8,000,000 bushels, and the mammoth +warehouses lining the water fronts reminded one of New York and Brooklyn. + +Large steamers and sailing vessels, of every description, are being loaded +and discharged; powerful steam-hoists in operation on the docks; immense +quantities of freight and merchandise in process of transfer to and from +the railroad cars; and bustle everywhere; while hundreds of pleasure-boats +and small crafts, of every conceivable variety, may be seen as far as the +eye can reach. There we saw the trim and dainty shell, with its arrow-like +prow, darting through the quiet coves; the saucy catamaran shooting, half +submerged, out before the wind; the cozy little steam-launches, all ready +to take their passengers to some suburban pleasure-ground; excursion +steamers, with flying banners and bands of music going and coming, and +mammoth propellers destined to carry thousands of tourists to the El +Dorado on Lake Michigan's blue waters. + +It will not be difficult to understand why Buffalo has attained commercial +supremacy in Western New York, if you add to this never ceasing activity, +betokening business, the enormous canal traffic; for it is here where +innumerable canal-boats are weighted with the rich products of the west, +carrying a large floating population of boatmen's families. + +Before selecting our mooring place in Buffalo Creek, which can be +navigated for about one mile, we sailed to the breakwater, a solid wall +several feet high, having a length of 4,000 feet, which was erected at the +expense of some millions of dollars for the protection of the city from +being flooded by the unruly waters of Lake Erie. + +While the tanks of the yacht were being filled with the limpid water of +the lake, we ascended the stairs leading to the top of the protecting +wall; for we all were anxious to become acquainted with the nature of the +billows that were to carry us many miles westward and nearer to our far +destination. + +It was a glorious sight unfolded before our eyes. We glanced at a huge +sheet of water, about 268 miles long, varying from thirty to nearly sixty +miles in width, with an area of 9600 square miles, whose elevation from +tide water is judged to be 564 feet. + +This majestic spectacle, as animated as it was, imparted to us an adequate +conception of a boisterous inland sea. The surface of the lake was in wild +uproar; the advancing and retreating waves were beating themselves into +angry foam, and dashed their spray pearls almost to our feet; their +opulent azure hue being dimmed by the violent agitation. The inexperienced +eye has no idea of the imposing impression caused by the extremely +subitaneous changes to which these waters are subjected. The wide bosom of +the lake that sometimes lies motionless and glassy, without a breath of +air to cause the slightest undulation, in a very short time may be +scourged by a sudden gale. The wild gambols of the waves, accompanied by +the roar of the disturbed elements, may well cause the timid to fear; for, +as the swell lifts, you would think the bases of the earth are rising +beneath it; and, again, when it falls, you would imagine the foundation of +the deep had given away. + +Though the billows before us now were beaten by a powerful breeze, +breaking with angry roar upon the barrier upon which we stood, yet not the +slightest feeling of fear found place within our hearts. On the contrary, +as we left the breakwater in order to return to Buffalo, I felt my heart +palpitating with joy as I thought of the pleasing prospect to be tossed by +those grand waves. + +Having chosen a place at the foot of Main Street for our stay, the orders +to secure the "Marguerite" were instantly carried out; and immediately a +multitude of curious beholders had gathered around the yacht, viewing her +with evident expression of admiration. + +Since it was yet early in the afternoon we decided to go on shore, in +order to view the points of interest in this important city. + +A ride in the electric railway, traversing it in every direction, made us +acquainted with a good portion of Buffalo, which contains a population of +nearly 300,000, being the third city in size in the Empire State. It is +handsomely laid out with broad and well shaded streets. One hundred and +three miles are paved with asphalt, and 133 miles with stone. We saw many +fine residences with attractive grounds, and numerous public squares. +Delaware Avenue, the leading street for elegant mansions, is about three +miles long, and is lined with a double row of trees. + +The city possesses a superb system of parks and pleasure grounds, designed +and laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of Central Park in +New York City. It comprises three sections, situated respectively in the +northern, western, and eastern parts of Buffalo, which, with the +connecting boulevard, afford a drive of nearly ten miles. + +Main Street, the principal trading thoroughfare, has many substantial +business blocks. + +Of the prominent public buildings, the city and county hall deserves being +mentioned in the first place. It is an imposing structure, of Maine +granite, in the form of a double Roman cross, with a tower 245 feet high, +surmounted by four statues. This magnificent edifice is fronting on +Franklin Street, and was completed in 1880 at a cost of nearly $1,500,000. + +Other handsome buildings are the U.S. custom house and postoffice, at the +corner of Washington and Seneca Streets; the Buffalo library, on Lafayette +Square; the State arsenal, in Broadway; the Erie County penitentiary, one +of the six penal establishments of New York; the general hospital, in High +Street; and the State asylum for the insane, an edifice which cost about +$3,000,000, located in Forest Avenue, adjoining the Buffalo Park. + +The city is also adorned with several handsome churches and theaters. + +Buffalo was first settled by the Dutch in 1801, and became an important +military post during the war of 1812. It was burned by a combined force of +British and Indians in 1814. Its city charter was granted in 1832, and +since then its growth has been very rapid. + +As regards its live-stock trade, Buffalo ranks third among the cities in +the Union, and its iron and steel works are next in importance to those of +Pittsburg. The shipment of Pennsylvania coal, which finds a depot here, +has been greatly increased in recent years; about 1,500,000 tons being +distributed annually. The lumber trade is also large, but has been partly +diverted to Tonawanda, ten miles below Buffalo. + +The industrial works comprise four blast furnaces, large rolling mills, +machine shops, car shops, iron ship-yards, stove foundries, tanneries, +flour mills, and manufacturing of agricultural implements. + +Early on Monday morning, I abandoned the land of dreams in order to appear +on deck in good season; since arrangements had been made for going into +dry-dock that very morning. + +Reader, have you ever been there? I hear you answer negatively. Well, that +is just what I expected; for it is a rather unusual and rare experience +for ladies, even in the eyes of a shipwright, a man who is constantly +employed in that place, that a boat enters the dry-dock with her +passengers on board. + +It was partly a matter of necessity, and partly of circumspection, that +caused us to abide in the dry-dock for a few hours. + +In consequence of the numerous low bridges that span the canal, the spars, +rigging, and smoke-stack belonging to the complete equipment of the +"Marguerite" would have made her journey on that artificial waterway +absolutely impossible; therefore it was necessary to replace these parts +in their appropriate positions. + +The picture in the frontispiece gives evidence of that fact; as the +"Marguerite" presented a very different picture completely rigged. + +Now, on the point of sailing on the Great Lakes, it was requisite to dress +the yacht in her proper array, with her high tapering masts; the cords of +her rigging stretching from spar to spar with the beautiful accuracy of a +picture; and so equipped, as to give her the appearance of a majestic, +white winged sea-bird resting gracefully on the water. + +For the purpose of bestowing upon her such an outfit, as well as for +having her bottom examined, she was docked in Mill's dry-dock. The latter +motive, I must add, was effected by a mere act of precaution; since no +components of the propelling machinery had been injured or damaged. + +But Mr. James, our ever thoughtful commodore, wished to be assured that he +could direct the "Marguerite" on her westward course with everything +pertaining to her in complete order. + +These docks may be in communication either with a wet dock or a tidal +harbor. I observed that the dry-dock we entered had a pontoon gate, +floated in or out of place as desired. There being no tides in the lakes, +this style of gate--less liable to leak under continuous pressure--is +invariably used; for the only method of emptying the docks here is by +pumping, for which purpose a steam-engine and pumps, with a well and water +channel leading to it, were employed. + +We scarcely had made our entry into it, ere many busy hands worked to give +the keel of the yacht a secure rest on wooden blocks which were fastened +down to prevent them floating. They were of such a height as to permit the +shipwright getting under the vessel's bottom. Then side shores were put in +to keep the boat in an upright position. This being accomplished, I could +notice that the pumping machinery was brought into full operation. Soon I +found that the level of the water became lower and lower, and after the +expiration of about one-half hour the dock was almost dry. + +The sides of the dock generally consist of stone steps--called altars--for +the purpose of fixing the lower ends of the shores, and also for the +convenience of supporting the workmen's scaffold. + +Mr. James and family, including myself, left the yacht to the crew and +workmen, while we further explored the city of Buffalo in carriages, +thoughtfully provided for us. + +The day after our entering dry-dock, August 1st, was eventful, as it was +arranged we should make an excursion to view one of Nature's greatest +wonders--_Niagara Falls_--a sight unlike any other on the surface of the +globe. The indescribable grandeur of the whole overwhelms the soul--to +contemplate that tremendous torrent which never stops! No rest in the ages +of the past--no promise of a moment's stay in all the years to come--but +on, on, with resistless force! + +Our thoughts become like the mists that rise above this awful scene, and +we are mute--Pigmies of an hour! To feel that after what we are becomes a +little dust, that solemn roar will echo in the ears of millions now +unborn! + +Though I had read diverse descriptions portraying the grandeur and +magnificence of Niagara Falls, still I was aware that they had failed in +conveying a clear and succinct outline of their wonderful proportions and +great sublimity. My conclusions that, in older to be properly appreciated +these gigantic cataracts must be visited, were confirmed, and, _re vera_, +when once viewed the recollection of that glorious sight will linger long +in memory. + +An hour's ride in the cars brought us to the village of Niagara Falls, a +splendid manufacturing point, having all modern improvements and +unsurpassed railway facilities of various kinds. The village was +incorporated in 1848, and has about 4,000 inhabitants. + +The average annual number of visitors to this beautiful place is estimated +to be 400,000. + +At the station of Niagara Falls, Mr. James engaged vehicles which afforded +accommodations for all of us--a party of ten--including the steward, who +accompanied us, carrying a bountiful repast. + +The drivers of Niagara Falls are excellent _ciceroni_. We drove through +the handsome village to Prospect Park, a property owned by the State of +New York, and included in the Niagara Reservation, which the State +acquired by purchase in 1885. All the unsightly buildings, heretofore +obstructing the view, have been removed, and a terrace was erected for a +distance of half a mile, affording uncountable attractions to the visitor +with its venerable trees, comfortable seats, and delightful views. + +The main entrance is a tasty structure at the foot of Cascade Street. The +point of land at the brink of the falls is called _Prospect Point_. Since +it commands a fine view, which is the feature of the park, our drivers +advised us to abandon the carriages and to step nearer to the long stone +wall running for some distance along the edge of the gorge. + +Standing on the platform, I glanced at the mighty volume of water; here +precipitated over a huge rock 163 feet high with a thunderlike roar that +can be heard, under favorable circumstances, a distance of fifteen miles. + +For a long time we remained there, spell-bound by the wonderful panorama, +plunged into a reverie of rapture. Mrs. James, reminding me the carriages +were waiting for us, brought me back to consciousness. + +The spectacle is so sublime and overwhelming that the mind, unable to +grasp it, cannot adjust itself at once to a scale so stupendous, and the +impression fails. But, gradually, as you remain longer, the unvarying, +ponderous, unspeakably solemn voice of the great flood finds its way to +the soul, and holds it with a fascination which is all pervasive and +cannot be shaken off. + +In a car, moving on an inclined plane, we descended to the water's edge. +These cars are raised and lowered by water-power, by means of a three-inch +cable 300 feet long, running over steel wheels. + +At the foot of the stairway, tickets may be obtained for the trip on the +"Maid of the Mist," that steams up to the Horseshoe Fall; then back to the +Canadian side, and finally returns to her starting point. + +The view from below presented to us new charms which we could not obtain +before. In the first place the enormous height of the cataract may be +better realized from beneath; then the emerald and opal translucence of +the waters, as they pass in their swift career, was here especially +effective; since the sun, shining through the mists of spray from a +station in the heavens most advantageous for our prospect, crowned the +entire scene with iridescent diadems. This fall is known as the American, +separated from the "Horseshoe" or "Canadian Fall" by a large island, +standing on the verge of the cliff over which the cataract pours, and +dividing the river in such a manner as to form from its waters the two +above named falls. + +After a lovely ride through the beautiful woodland we viewed Goat Island, +having an area of 61-1/2 acres and a circumference of about one mile. A +strip about ten rods wide and eighty rods long, has been washed away on +the south side since the first road was made in 1818. + +This island was, in ancient times, one of the favorite burying-grounds of +the Indians, and yet preserves traces of their funeral rites. + +Crossing the first bridge, from which we had one of the grandest views of +the rapids, we reached Bath Island, some two acres in extent. A second +bridge conveyed us to Goat Island, where we witnessed a most charming +panorama. Descending the stairs, we stood next to the Little Fall, beneath +which is the famous Cave of the Winds. + +From the farther point of Luna Island, attainable by a little bridge, we +saw the most desirable near view of the American Fall and Rapids; here, +too, we enjoyed a fine spectacle in the perspective of the gorge below. + +It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, which +is undoubtedly true, but the impression is heightened by imagination. + +Not far from Luna Island are the famous Biddle Stairs. Shortly after their +erection, in 1829, the well known Sam Patch, whose diving propensities +made his name illustrious, performed his noted, bold feat in 1830. Midway +between the foot of these stairs and the Canadian Fall he built a +scaffold, ninety-six feet high, from which he made his successful leap +into the river. + +Proceeding a little further, we stood in full view of the Horseshoe +Fall--so-called because of its crescent shape--which contains by far the +greater body of water; the fall being more than 2,000 feet wide and 154 +feet high. + +The site of the old Terrapin Tower is the best point from which to +perceive the shape of the fall. + +From the south side of the island the Three Sister Islands are accessible, +affording the finest views of the rapids. These islands offer, from their +location, a delightfully cool retreat in the warmest summer days, with +attractive and enchanting scenery. + +In order to have a comprehensive glance of Nature's grandest wonder known +to man, in its climax of sublimity, we took a ride back through Prospect +Park, across the New Suspension Bridge, below the American Fall, to the +Canadian shore. This splendid drive was continued through the Queen +Victoria Niagara Falls Park, opened to the public in 1889. + +Following the example of New York State, the Ontario Parliament had passed +an act to reserve the western side of the Falls vicinity--the Canadian +Reservation--covering an area of about 154 acres, and beautifully laid +out. + +Here we had the most imposing view; a finer panorama cannot well be +imagined. + +The concussion of the descending waters with those in the depths below +occasion a spray that veils the cataract two-thirds up its height. Above +this everlasting and impenetrable foam, there rises fifty feet above the +fall a cloud of lighter spray, which, when the rays of the sun are +directed upon it, displays solar rainbows, grand in their magnificence. + +It was here on Table Rock, formerly one of the most celebrated points +about Niagara, that Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney wrote her spirited eulogy +on Niagara, which commences with the musical rhymes: + + "Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe + Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on, + Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set + His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud + Mantled around thy feet. And he doth give + Thy voice of thunder power to speak of him + Eternally,--bidding the lip of man + Keep silence,--and upon thine altar pour + Incense of awe-struck praise." + +Three miles below the falls is the Whirlpool, a vast basin formed by the +projection of a rocky promontory on the Canadian side, against which the +waters rush with such violence as to cause a severe reaction and rotary +motion; and in it logs and trees are frequently whirled around for weeks +in succession. + +Geology has accepted as a matter of certitude that within the memory of +men now living, the Falls have receded 100 feet, and authorities in that +science have stated the fact, that the retrocession--estimated from one +inch to one foot per year--began near Lewiston. The whole waters of the +lakes there foamed over this dam several miles in width. + +The name "Niagara" is supposed to belong to the vocabulary of the Iroquois +language, meaning "Thunderer of Waters." + +The first white visitor to Niagara Falls was Father Hennepin, a priest and +historian, accompanying Chevalier Robert de la Salle on his discoveries. +He published the first description of "this wonderful Downfall" in 1678. + +There exist now three distinct cataracts, which are known as _Horseshoe_, +_American_, and _Central Falls_. The weight of water descending over the +cadences in a single hour, is computed to be 100,000,000 tons. + +The magnitude of the great waterfalls, and their fame as a natural wonder, +had, heretofore, to a certain degree, excluded from thought the idea of +their marvelous utilarian properties; but the recent development of +electrical science, and the far-reaching enterprise of to-day, have now +combined to subject to the uses of mankind a portion of the power of the +falls, developed at such a distance from the great cataract as not to +interfere in any way with the natural beauty of the scenery. + +As the western sky was dyed with the tints of sunset, we hastened to reach +our floating home; since we expected two friends of Miss Campbell on board +the yacht--a gentleman who holds a prominent position in Buffalo, Mr. J.B. +Seitz, and his charming wife. We returned with the exhalting sentiment of +having visited a temple of nature, to whose shrine thousands from all over +the world annually pay their tribute of praise. + +Arriving on board the "Marguerite" that--though still in dry-dock--was not +laid dry any more, we perceived a striking contrast between the close and +saturated atmosphere prevailing here, and the pure, balmy air at Niagara +Falls. + +Our thoughtful commodore, desirous of giving us the opportunity to inhale +the refreshing sea-breeze, ordered our departure for the breakwater as +soon as circumstances permitted; intending early on the following morning +to commence our lake journey. The obscurity was fast increasing as we +neared the high stone wall, and the scenery around me made the verses of +Whittier resound in my ears in which he described the "Evening by the Lake +Side" so beautifully with the words: + + "Yon mountain's side is black with night, + While broad-orbed, o'er its gleaming crown + The moon, slow rounding into sight, + On the hushed inland-sea looks down." + + + +CHAPTER III. + +VOYAGE ON THREE GREAT LAKES, FROM AUGUST 2ND, 7 A.M., TO AUGUST 22ND, 9 +A.M. + + +As the warm rays of the morning sun were lighting up the scene with a +radiance, glorious to behold, we bade farewell to Buffalo which, being +already in some distance, soon became entirely invisible. + +Indescribable was our amazement when we viewed once more the waters of +_Lake Erie_, whose raging billows had betrayed to us, only a few days ago, +the unruly nature of a boisterous inland-sea. + +Now, as we were gliding on its surface, the lake presented an appearance +quite novel to us; being almost motionless, a true emblem of tranquillity +and peacefulness. Only now and then a gentle zephyr rippled its level +which, reflected in the sunbeams, appeared like an undulating mass of +silver. The cloudless heavens, clad in their brightest hue of azure blue, +and illumined by the golden sun, painted a great variety of fine images of +light and shade on the limpid waters beneath. The sky seemed to reflect +the water and the water the sky, both gleaming in the sunshine. + +On our right, the lake made the impression of stretching into endless, +unlimited space; on our left, however, we could distinguish romantic +hills, decorated by massive groves, with crossing and intersecting +promontories, and fair valleys tenanted by numerous flocks and herds, that +seemed to wander unrestrained through the rich pastures. The luxuriant +landscape was intercepted here and there by undulating slopes, covered +with sand, whose light color contrasted with the verdure of vales and +hillocks. + +Speeding along, we came abreast of _Dunkirk_, a lake-port town in +Chautauqua County, N.Y., situated on a small bay in Lake Erie, forty miles +southwest of Buffalo. The town, which has a population of over 5,000, +occupies an elevated and favorable position on the lake. Its industries +comprise oil refineries, and the manufacture of flour and iron-work. + +After proceeding on our voyage for some hours, we viewed--located in a +natural bay--the harbor of _Erie_, the capital of Erie County, Penn. The +port is protected by a breakwater three and one-half miles long. + +The principal shipments that leave this harbor, are coal, iron, and +petroleum; an important trade being carried on with the Canadian +lake-ports. + +The streets of the city are spacious and laid out with great regularity. +To its prominent buildings belong the postoffice, the opera house, the +city hospital, the court house, and the orphan asylum. Erie contains +nearly 20,000 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in iron manufacture. +The large supply of water required for the factories is obtained from the +lake by powerful engines, which force it to a tower 200 feet high, whence +it is distributed through the mains. The chief industries developed here, +are petroleum refineries and leather factories. + +It was at Erie, that Commodore Perry equipped the vessels which in 1813 +defeated the British fleet on Lake Erie. In the year 1795 the town was +laid out, and in 1851 it received a city charter. + +Still fascinated by the attractions of the everchanging landscape along +the southern coast, we had forgotten that _fugit hora_; for we were +greatly surprised to perceive the approaching twilight, indicating the +parting day, and the white beams of the young crescent just beginning to +steal over the lately flushed and empurpled scene. + +Therefore, the "Marguerite" was cabled to the dock, about two miles from +the village of _Conneaut_. + +A fresh and palpitating evening air invited us to a walk along the coast +of the beautiful inland-sea. Adopting an unfrequented path through a vast +plain of sand, we found the charming scenery enhanced by a solemn +stillness. All nature slumbered. + +Here, witnessing a magnificent prospect in this lovely solitude, we +experienced one of those seasons when the atmosphere is so surcharged with +luxury, that every pore of the body becomes an ample gate for sensation to +flow in; and one has simply to sit still and to be filled. + +Seated near the shore, we delivered ourselves up to the exquisite +loveliness around us; and when returning on board the yacht, the +impression of the superb panorama tarried with me, even into the realm of +Morpheus; so that I rose on the following morning with the remembrance of +delicious dreams. + +When I came on deck, the air seemed to be sweet with perfumes; the water +sparkled brightly, and the blue sky hung cloudless over the placid mirror +of Lake Erie. + +Thus, favored by the weather, the majestic steam-yacht resumed her voyage. + +After the lapse of two hours the harbor of Ashtabula came in sight, and at +about 10 o'clock we approached Fair Point. The noon-tide of the summer day +was past, as we were made acquainted with the fact, that the rising towers +and pinnacles, to be discerned in the distance on our left, pertained to +the beautiful "Forest City," next to Cincinnati the largest and most +important city in the State of Ohio. + +_Cleveland_ is built on both sides of the Cuyahoga River, which is here +crossed by several bridges. It is located chiefly on a plain from fifty to +100 feet above the lake, of which a magnificent view is thus obtained. + +Leaving East River Street, where our floating home was destined to remain, +I undertook an excursion through the greater portion of the city; not +solely for the purpose of viewing the regular streets, generally from +eighty to 100 feet wide, and lined with maple trees, but with the design +to see a friend--Miss Lina Uhl--a teacher in one of the thirty public +schools; holding a prominent position as the president of a teachers' +association in Cleveland. She is the niece of Mr. C.F. Hild, from +Schenectady, N.Y. + +Having previously informed her of my intention to visit her native city, I +was already expected, and very cordially received at her hospitable home. + +After I had spent some very pleasant hours there, my friend accompanied me +on my return to the dock. _En route_ she made me acquainted with many +points of interest, which are so numerous in the "Forest City." Thus, she +called my attention to the charming Euclid Avenue, a street several miles +long, considered to be one of the most extensive and picturesque within +the limits of the United States. Here Cleveland's aristocracy built their +substantial mansions and luxurious villas, encircled by tasty, park-like +gardens. Of special interest to the visitor is the monument erected in +memory of James Abram Garfield, the twentieth president of the Republic, +born in Orange, Ohio, in 1831. Being in office but a short time, he was +shot by a disappointed office-seeker, Charles J. Guiteau, in 1881. This +sad event, which forms a thrilling incidence in the history of the Union, +is comparable with the recent death of Carter Harrison, mayor of Chicago, +whose assassination by Prendergast, under similar circumstances, on +Saturday, 8.30 P.M., October 28, 1893, created a profound sensation and +great excitement. + +Monumental Park, near the center of the city, contains ten acres, divided +into four squares by the extension of Ontario and Superior Streets. +Besides a fountain, and other attractive objects, the park is adorned by a +statue of Commodore Perry, erected in 1860 in commemoration of his victory +on Lake Erie in 1813. It is of Italian marble, eight feet high, and stands +upon a granite pedestal twelve feet in altitude. The most noteworthy +buildings are the postoffice, the city hall, the county court house, and +the Cleveland medical college. The Union Railway depot, an immense +structure of stone near the lake shore, is one of the largest of the kind +in the United States. + +Cleveland was founded in 1796, and named in honor of General Moses +Cleveland of Connecticut, who then had charge of the surveying of this +region. It was an important point in the war of 1812, incorporated as a +village in 1814, and as a city in 1836. The number of its inhabitants is +estimated to be more than 200,000. The "Forest City" has an extensive +trade in copper and iron ore, shipped from the Lake Superior mining +regions, as well as in coal, petroleum, wool, and lumber, received by +railroad, canal, and lake transportation. A sojourn of at least one week +is requisite in order to acquaint one's self with all the attractions of +Cleveland, with its unrivaled position and manifold beauties of scenery. + +In fact, our honorable President can be proud to share his name with this +delightful place; and, in return, the "Forest City" may consider it an +honor to be the namesake of Grover Cleveland, the present leader of the +powerful Republic. + +On Friday morning, as soon as the dawning day dispatched its first rays +over Cleveland, we resumed our voyage on Lake Erie. The flakes of light +were falling every moment faster and broader among the spires and towers +of the city of which we gradually lost sight. They were only discernible +as long, gray shadows on the elevated lake shore. The mists were couched +in quiet masses, iridescent with the morning light, upon the breasts of +the remote hills, over whose leagues of massy undulations, they melted +into the robe of material light, fading, lost in the increasing lustre, +again to reappear in the higher heavens, while their bases vanished into +the unsubstantial and mocking blue of the lake below. The dispersing +wreaths of white clouds gradually gave place to the pale azure of the +horizon. The level of the beautiful inland-sea was bathed in the glorious +sunlight and the whole heaven--one scarlet canopy--colored the limpid +waters with an exquisite, roseate tint; thus giving a redoubled splendor +to this fine panorama. + +While the midday sun was sending forth his warm rays, we came abreast of +Marblehead, and speeding along we reached Green Island at 1 o'clock. + +Having passed Barr Point Lighthouse we chose our halting place on the +Canadian shore near _Amherstburg_, a small village pleasantly situated on +the Detroit River. + +As the yacht was fastened to the dock, the heavens were yet illumined by +the parting day; which gave us opportunity to admire the superb spectacle +on the opposite shore. Its southwestern extremity was adorned with +numerous verdant islands of various size and form; some stretching for +miles in length--the largest containing a circumference of fourteen miles; +several so small that they seemed destined for a race of fairies; others +in clusters; and some like beautiful vestals, in single loveliness, whose +holy vows ordained them forever to live alone. + +The last streak of light had faded from the west, and a pale lustre +kindling in the eastern portions of the sky, became brighter and brighter +till the white falcated moon was lifted up above the horizon; while +uncountable stars appeared to reflect their brilliancy in the waters +below. This delightful scene around us, so perfectly filled and satisfied +our sense of beauty that we reluctantly gave up our comfortable seats on +the stern-deck, notwithstanding an advanced time of night. + +On the following morning the sun rose in his clearest splendor. As soon as +that flood of luminous rays which constitutes day, was flowing on the +crystalline sea, we departed from this romantic country scene in Canada. + +Sailing along, we approached the terminus of our voyage on Lake Erie, +which is considered the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes as to +navigation, owing to its comparative shallowness--its mean depth, being +about ninety feet--and the consequent liability to a heavy ground swell. +The peculiar features of this body of water are its inferior depth and the +clayey nature of its shores, which are generally low; on the south, +however, bordered by an elevated plateau, through which the rivers have +cut deep channels. + +Though the lake possesses but a small number of good harbors, the amount +of traffic on its waters, and on the connecting railways is enormous. + +This inland-sea, presenting us only sights of utmost quietude and peace, +has been the scene of a naval engagement between the British and +Americans, September 10, 1813, in which the latter were victorious. The +view we enjoyed was not in the least adequate to remind us of warfare; on +the contrary + + "The sun in heaven shone so gay: + All things were joyful on that day." + +It was yet early in the morning when we neared the city of Detroit, having +almost reached the head of _Detroit River_ which separates the United +States from Canada. Being about one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide, +and five and one-half fathoms deep, the river flows with a pretty swift +current. + +_Detroit_ is the most important city of Michigan, opposite the Canadian +town Windsor. + +Eighteen miles north of Lake Erie, it stretches with its suburbs about +five miles along the river, and the central part extends for about two +miles back from the shore. Approaching the city, we were more and more +delighted with its attractive appearance. The streets, from fifty to 100 +feet wide, are for the most part ornamented with rows of trees. A number +of avenues, having an unusual width, diverge from the Grand Circus, a +spacious park semi-circular in form, which is divided into two quadrants +by Woodward Avenue. Connected with the former is the Campus Martius, a +public place about 600 feet long and 250 feet wide. Detroit comprises many +magnificent structures. One of the chief public buildings is the city +hall, facing the Campus Martius, with fronts on four streets. It counts +among the finest edifices of the kind in the west. Built of sandstone, it +is designed after the Italian style of architecture, surmounted by a tower +180 feet high. Its cost amounted to $600,000. Other prominent structures +are the opera house, the office of the Board of Trade, the custom house, +and the Roman Catholic cathedral. + +The commercial facilities of the city are very extensive. The Detroit +River is a connecting link in the great chain of lake navigation, and +affords the best harbor on the inland-seas. Detroit is not only the center +of a great railroad system; more than 350 vessels are owned here, and +numerous daily lines of steamers run to various points of the lakes. Its +manufacturing industries are very important and consist of iron, flour, +tobacco, cigars, lumber, and bricks. The extensive Pullman Car Works are +situated here; also one of the seven pin factories in the United States. + +Settled by the French, early in the eighteenth century, Detroit passed +into the hands of the English in 1763. It was then besieged for eleven +months by the Indian chief Pontiac; ceded to the Americans in 1783, but +not occupied by them till 1796. As a city, it was incorporated in 1824; +and its present population is estimated to be 235,000. It was the capital +of Michigan from 1837 till 1847, when that honor was transferred to +Lansing. + +Having traversed Detroit River, we entered _Lake St. Clair_, a sheet of +water eighteen miles long and twenty-two miles wide. This small lake has +many extensive sand-banks covered with a depth of water varying from six +to ten feet. Previous to 1858, much inconvenience was experienced in +navigating it, owing to the insufficient depth, but the governments of the +United States and Canada have dredged a canal through the bed of the lake, +comprising a width of 300 feet. Since then, this channel has been deepened +so as to enable vessels drawing fifteen feet to pass with safety from lake +to lake in stormy weather. + +After the expiration of a few hours we reached _River St. Clair_, whose +luxuriant border exhibited a magnificent panorama. + +Afar off westward, the uplands wore a tinge of tenderest blue; and in the +nearer distance, on the low shores of the river, superb summer residences, +tasty villas, and elegant hotels, built in every style of architecture, +lay interspersed between romantic hills and tufted groves. The horizon was +of a fine, golden tint, changing gradually into the deep blue of the +mid-heaven. + +None of us ventured to leave the deck fearing to miss some of those +unrivaled sights constantly offering new attractions. + +This trip on River St. Clair--though having an extent of thirty-three +miles--seemed but short to us; and the fine spectacle displayed on the +charming western bank may be reckoned among the most delightful scenes we +beheld on our long, enjoyable voyage. + +As we approached the terminus of the river, a sudden rush of the awakened +wind was heard; and out of the blue horizon a troop of narrow, dark, and +pointed clouds were advancing, covering the sky, inch by inch, with their +gray masses gradually blotting the light out of the landscape. Horizontal +bars of black shadow were forming under them, and lurid wreaths wrapped +themselves about the crests of the hills. The wind had grown more violent +as _Port Huron_ came in view. Waving curtains of opaque rain, swinging +from the overburdened clouds, dropped down upon the surface of the river. +The black swaying fringes, sweeping irresistibly along the water, churned +the surface into foam. + +The sudden and unfavorable change of the weather determined our commodore +to abide at _Port Huron_, a prosperous city in Michigan. It commands a +very advantageous situation, located on the west bank of River St. Clair, +and at the southern extremity of Lake Huron. + +Being the county seat of St. Clair County, it is also a point of great +importance in the railway system, and the terminus of several lines of +lake steamers. + +The city, with a population of nearly 14,000, has a large lumber trade, +ship-yards, dry-docks, saw and flour mills. + +Founded in 1819, Port Huron was incorporated as a village in 1835, and as +a city in 1857. + +Since the yacht lingered here until Monday, August 7th, we were enabled to +become familiar with its broad streets, regularly laid out and well +shaded; some adorned by beautiful private residences. The heavy, black +clouds that had shrouded the whole sky ever since we made our entry in +Port Huron, were yet concealing the golden disk of the summer sun. The +atmosphere, however, which had previously a disagreeable, wet chilliness +in it, gradually grew clearer and warmer so that we left the dock with the +intention to undertake our voyage on Lake Huron, but when nearing the +place where this sheet of water, covering an area of 23,000 square miles, +communicates with River St. Clair, we discovered that the swell on the +lake level was yet quite considerable, whereas the wind which had blown a +gale all the preceding day, was gradually dying away. + +Still, we found it advisable to wait until the foaming waves of the +enraged element had been appeased. In consequence of this decision we +concluded to moor the yacht as near the entrance of Lake Huron, as we +conveniently could, ready for an early departure; for which we considered +the town of _Sarnia_, opposite Port Huron, the most favorable locality. + +Romantically situated on the Canadian shore, Sarnia affords a splendid +north and west view. Its handsome streets and neat structures are quite +attractive to the stranger; and not these alone but also the residents who +are generous and hospitable. We observed this fact, even during our short +stay, when receiving the visit of Mr. Clark and his amiable lady, who +presented us with a bouquet of fragrant flowers, a kind gift that we +highly appreciated. + +Long ere the east became purple with the morning light and the pinnacles +of Sarnia were bathed, one by one, in the glory of its burning, we +departed from the pleasant city, and the white sea-bird "Marguerite" +spread her light wings over the surface of Lake Huron, whose +waves--although the wind was quite fresh--did not run as high as I +anticipated; for I had been informed that on the previous day the tide +from the lake into Detroit River amounted to eight miles an hour. + +As I was pacing up and down the deck, I viewed an inland-sea 270 miles +long, and 105 miles broad, with a picturesque coast line on our left. The +purity of its waters was discernible by its limpid appearance and savory +taste. The fine deposits of sand and clay extending at different places +along the shore to a distance of twenty miles inland, by their contrasts +added to the scenic beauty, exhibiting a variety of magnificent views. + +The luxuriant coast bordering on the southern extremity of the lake and +skirting the peninsula of Michigan and southwestern Ontario--though +comparatively flat--is not void of charming features; being lined with +numerous pretty villages imbosomed among gentle slopes that were covered +with the richest verdure. These hamlets, situated in the quiet valleys and +shaded glens, alternated with extensive fields and orchards exuberant with +fertility. + +Speeding along on the wavy surface of the lake, we gained sight of the +breakwater of _Sand Beach_ when the noon-tide of the day had not yet +arrived. + +We first visited the village of Sand Beach, and returned at nightfall to +the breakwater, which is five miles distant from the former; here the +yacht was cabled to the dock. Near our halting place there stood a lofty +tower, whose illuminating apparatus threw a radiant, vari-colored light on +the dark surface of Lake Huron. + +Upon expressing a desire to visit the Light Tower, Mr. James, who never +left any of our wishes unfulfilled, immediately made arrangements with the +keeper; and, accordingly, we were invited to intrust ourselves to his +guidance. + +He informed us that the structure rested on a foundation consisting of a +concrete mass, nine feet below the water line. Having ascended four +flights of iron-wrought winding stairs, we reached the top of the circular +structure; it having a diameter of twenty-four feet at its base, and +rising to an elevation of fifty-seven feet. + +With great interest we inspected the revolving lights, exhibiting an +ingenious piece of machinery, the invention of Finisterre and Barren in +Paris, and representing a value of $1,800. This apparatus for rotating +lamps is far superior to that for a fixed light. + +The characteristic of the latter is to constantly illuminate the whole +horizon, requiring all the rays to fall simultaneously on the navigable +track, whereas the demands made of a revolving light, are not nearly so +great; only each point of the horizon being lighted at successive periods. + +When the dark intervals occur, the rays from the flame which are then +pointing toward the obscure spaces, have their direction so altered +laterally as to pass into the adjoining bright places; and so increase the +power of the luminous flashes. A revolving light, though supplied by a +flame of the same strength as a fixed, will thus necessarily be raised to +a higher degree; for it does not lose its power by diffusing the rays +constantly over the whole horizon, but gathers them up into a number of +separate beams of greater intensity. + +The lights made to revolve by means of clockwork, were fed with mineral +oil, a refined kerosine; and the refraction was caused by highly polished +metallic reflectors. + +This visit to the Sand Beach Beacon was quite instructive; since we viewed +there a practical application of an important principle in optics, based +on the reflection of light. + +On Wednesday morning, the first beams of the new-born day had just +appeared, when the yacht continued her voyage on Lake Huron. After a +course of nearly twenty-two miles, we approached _Saginaw Bay_--the +largest indentation on the western lake shore--comprising a width of +thirty miles and a length of sixty miles. + +The passage across this bay, feared by many experienced navigators on +account of the heavy ground swell, did not give us any cause for anxiety +at first. Gradually, however, the sea became quite rough, and the enraged +waves dashed their spray pearls even upon the deck of our sailing home. + + "The soft, wild waves, that rush and leap, + Sing one song from the hoary deep: + The south wind knows its own refrain, + As it speeds the cloud o'er heaven's blue main." + +The strong breeze springing up in the forenoon, increased at midday. A +line of low waves, first creeping sinuously into the bay, and tossing +their snowy crests like troops of wild steeds, rolled higher and higher +with the noise of many waters; and to escape the wrath of the angry sea, +we stopped at the harbor of _Tawas City_, located near the northern +extremity of Saginaw Bay. It is a thriving country town, with about 1,000 +inhabitants, largely engaged in lumber trade. + +The wind continued to lash the fierce billows during the day until +evening; so we decided to remain in Tawas City until the dawn of the next +morning. + +Guided by the pale light of another aurora, we resumed our voyage, finding +the surface of Lake Huron still in uproar. + +During this forenoon, we had occasion to witness a prospect quite novel to +us. Glancing to our left, on Michigan's sylvan shore, we saw the bickering +flames of a ravaging forest fire; dyeing all the surrounding air and +landscape crimson, while dense clouds of smoke hung over the burning land +like a pall upon which the sun-rays were reflected with weird effect. It +was, indeed, an unusual sight, exhibiting strange beauty and splendor. + +In a short time we experienced the disagreeable consequences of this +conflagration in the woodlands, caused by the extreme dryness prevailing +in these regions for several weeks. For, as we reached _Alpena_ in +Michigan, at about noonday, we found the atmosphere completely saturated +with smoke, and intermixed with particles of burnt material. + +The reader can easily imagine that this impure air had a very unpleasant +effect upon our eyes, irritating them so as to materially interfere with +our comfort. This was the reason why we did not duly appreciate the +attractions of Alpena, a town with about 12,500 inhabitants, regularly +laid out with nice, broad streets, containing many handsome buildings and +large stores. + +We had an ardent desire to bid farewell to the city as quick as possible; +wherefore our captain received the order from Mr. James to guide the yacht +forward on her course, even before the dawning of the next day, if such an +early departure could be effected with safety. + +In compliance with these commands, we were on our way long ere the blush +of day tinged the eastern sky. At first, disregarding the smoke and mist +which became denser every minute, our navigator was soon aware that + + "So thick a haze o'erspreads the sky, + He cannot see the sun on high: + On deck the captain takes his stand, + So dull it is, he sees no land. + 'Dear me,' he says, 'I know no more + How far away we are from shore.'" + +The fact is--that on account of the dense pall of smoke and mist, +overshadowing everything--our pilot lost his reckoning, and only kept the +yacht slowly moving through the water until we could find our way, when +suddenly--we ran aground upon a rocky ledge, causing us all great +consternation. + + "No stir in the air, no stir in the sea, + The ship was as still as she might be. + Her shaft and screw received no shock. + Her keel was steady on a rock." + +Having lost all presence of mind, our pilot, without any meditation, +abandoned the yacht in one of the small boats, for the purpose of +obtaining assistance from the unknown shore. Before we were conscious of +his proceedings, he had disappeared through fume and haze. Almost +instantaneously we detected that the mariner's compass had vanished with +him. + +Thus, we were destitute of the most important instrument for navigation. +Wishing to give our deserter opportunity to find his way back to us, we +caused the whistle to resound at short intervals. + +This interesting adventure was, of course, thoroughly discussed. We were +all convinced that the unforeseen event might turn into a perilous one, +should a wind arise to roughen the surface of the water. + +Our conversation was interrupted by an involuntary cry of pleasure which +burst from the lips of Miss Campbell, whose keen eyes had revealed to her +quite an uncommon spectacle in the hazy distance. Following her direction, +we spied, through the fluctuating light of the foggy morning, the outlines +of a steadfast boat speeding along on the calm sea. Eight oars, managed +with the accuracy of clockwork by eight strong and skillful hands, were +hurrying toward our rock-bound craft. + +As the shape and dimensions of the capable boat became discernible, it was +evident she belonged to the United States Life-Saving Service, coming to +our rescue. This conjecture was correct, for the robust crew soon lay +alongside of us; which was a matter of intense relief to the whole party. + +With their assistance, the yacht was soon afloat again; and, guided by the +Thunder Bay crew, we sailed to a favorable place of anchorage between +Sugar and Gull Islands. Here the yacht remained to await our fugitive +pilot, who was restored to us by the kind services of the life-saving +crew, a few hours afterwards. + +We were informed that we had been aground two miles from the shore, in the +vicinity of Thunder Bay Lights on _Gull Island Ledge_. + +During a heavy shower in the afternoon, we received a visit from several +very pleasant ladies, relatives to the captain of the Thunder Bay +life-saving service. + +When expressing our regret that their excursion was not favored by +pleasanter weather, they assured us they were only too glad to view the +tremulous skeins of rain refresh the languishing earth. In fact, this +rainfall was a duplicated blessing, as it not only cleared the atmosphere +from its smoky shroud but helped to check the ravages of the extensive +forest conflagration, then threatening the city of Alpena with +destruction. + +An awakened breeze, which had freshened since the violent shower, caused +our floating home to roll considerably. + +Not desirous of being rudely tossed by the wanton billows, we weighed +anchor and returned to Alpena, the only safe harbor within reach before +sunset. + +Early the next day we continued our voyage on Lake Huron, entering its +northern portion, which differs greatly from the nature of its southern +shore. + +The northern and northeastern coasts are mostly composed of sand- and +limestones. Where metamorphic rocks are found, the surface is broken and +hilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake; in this +respect unlike the southern shore, which is low and flat. Of the many +islands--whose number amounts to about 3,000--we could admire the beauties +of but few; for most of them dot the Canadian coast line. + +As the wind increased rapidly, it was deemed advisable to take harbor at +_False Presqu'ile_, where we arrived at 9 A.M. Although this small body of +land appeared very insignificant, inhabited by only twelve families, we +decided to remain there, until wind and waves would prove more favorable. + +We had no motive to regret that resolution; for we experienced that this +solitary tract not only afforded us enchanting views of lovely scenery; it +was also the abode of noble-hearted mortals. Immediately after our arrival +a very amiable gentleman, introducing himself as Mr. W.A. French, a +wealthy lumber merchant of this place, visited us on board; giving us a +cordial welcome. Not satisfied with a kind reception, he and his pretty +wife presented us with all sorts of provisions, indigenous to this +locality; thus evincing the abundant supply of delicacies at their +disposal, notwithstanding their residing in such solitude. + +The time passed with marvelous rapidity in the pleasant company of our new +friends. When the gloom of the growing twilight reminded us of the fading +day, we could hardly realize this fact. We wished to stay there another +day; but when the following morning rose fair and beautiful in the clear +heavens, the wind had changed to the southeast, which was disadvantageous +for our mooring place; and it might have been dangerous for us to remain +in that harbor, should the breeze become violent. + +Leaving False Presqu'ile, we pursued our voyage under the most favorable +auspices. + +After a course of several hours, we reached _Cheboygan_, a town situated +on the northern shore of the Michigan Peninsula, thirteen miles from the +Straits of Mackinaw. Lumber trade is carried on especially in this place, +which contains about 7,500 inhabitants. + +Resuming our trip the next forenoon, a short course brought us to the +terminus of our voyage on Lake Huron; when reaching the _Straits of +Mackinaw_, whose blue green waves divide the State of Michigan. + +Extending nearly nine miles in circumference, and rising at its highest +point over 300 feet above the waves, we beheld the famous _Mackinaw +Island_, which has filled an important place in the history of +exploration. Here was the meeting place of the daring French _voyageurs_ +and _aventuriers_, before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. Many wild +and thrilling incidents in the lives of Marquette, Hennepin, and La Salle +occurred on this island; and over at Point St. Ignace, in plain view, +Marquette was escorted to his burial place by a hundred canoes of plumed +and painted Ottawa and Huron warriors in 1677. + +Just across, on the most northern point of the Lower Peninsula, stood old +Fort Mackinaw, the scene of the terrible massacre of the whites by the +Indians under Pontiac in 1763. + +On this island were fought two battles in the war of 1812. It was here +that Schoolcraft wrote his celebrated History of the North American +Indians, and the Legend of Hiawatha, which Longfellow, visiting him here, +afterward expanded into a poem. + +The island's varied scenery, and its history and traditions, have been +portrayed in vivid word pictures by Marion Harland in a book, bearing the +title "With the Best Intentions," by which she has recently added to her +wide fame. + +Having crossed the strait at its narrowest part four miles in width, we +caught sight of the beautiful waters of _Lake Michigan_, the only one in +the group of the North American great lakes which extends entirely within +the territory of the United States, having a maximum breadth of eighty +four miles, and a depth varying from 700 to 1,000 feet. Its length amounts +to 345 miles from the northwestern corner of Indiana and the northern part +of Illinois to the Straits of Mackinaw. + +We followed the same route which more than two centuries ago was taken by +Jacques Marquette who, in the spring of 1673, with Joliet for his +chieftain, and five other Frenchmen, embarked at Mackinaw in two frail +bark canoes. + +The disposition to pause for an instant, and to reflect upon the character +and circumstance of our luxurious voyage as contrasted with that of these +few adventurers in their fragile birch canoes--a little over 220 years +ago--is almost irresistible. + +On that occasion it was a journey of extreme peril--with no friendly +populous havens at which the necessary commodities could be obtained. +Those densely wooded shores afforded no hospitable refuge to these hardy +men, and their destination or return was a question of great uncertainty. + +We pushed along with the marvelous propeller and, surrounded with every +comfort, had the assurance of each evening anchoring in some safe +harbor--encountering cheerful voices, and seeing glad faces--with the +possibility of daily finding everything we wanted, in profusion. There +was the postoffice, with its rapid service at our disposal, or the +electric telegraph, by means of which we could communicate with every +part of civilization, ever within our reach--and the climax of modern +genius in the magnificent structures of the Columbian Exposition awaiting +us--the marvel of the nineteenth century, with its unparalleled +aggregation. The thought is overwhelming! And could these explorers have +seen in a dream--what we witnessed in reality--it would have seemed to +them an impossibility that so short a time could have brought about such +great events. + +The eastern lake shore was richly garlanded with forests displaying a vast +multitude of verdant hues, varying through all the shades of green. Over +the whole the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending toward +the rocks of lime- and sandstone, seemingly embracing every possible tint +and shade of color. + +Having achieved a course of sixty miles, the yacht cast anchor in the +excellent harbor of St. James on _Beaver Island_, a large tract of land +covering an area of 3,700 acres. Vessels of various kinds and shapes lay +moored in this spacious inlet. Being wind-bound, we tarried for two days, +which gave us opportunity to become acquainted with the features of the +island. We were informed that it is identified with the history of +Mormonism; since it was first settled by adherents of that sect, who +robbed the ships entering this port, and who led the lives of pirates. +After their leader was killed in one of the numerous combats which ensued +with the attacked sailors, they abandoned the place; but the habitation of +the Mormon chief is still existing, probably the only vestige left here of +the followers of Joseph Smith. + +At 1 o'clock A.M., on Wednesday, August 16th, we departed from Beaver +Island. The pilot had guided the "Marguerite" on a course of about +forty-five miles southward, when we approached _Northport_, Michigan, a +place noteworthy for having not a single of those maleficient institutions, +commonly styled beer-saloons. + +We lingered two hours at the dock of this town. The white fields of +blinding mist floated along the winding valleys of the low lake shore; and +from the dark clouds curtaining the sun, the rain fell continuously. Thus +the landscape on our left bore a gray and dim tincture. + +Before the darkness of evening had gathered about us, the yacht was made +fast to the dock of _Frankfort_, on the Michigan coast, a small place with +a population of about 1,000, romantically situated. Taking our departure +from the town on the following morning, we observed that the fog, covering +the surrounding landscape with a thick, impenetrable veil, increased in +density until it seemed as if from moment to moment additional tints of +sombre gray were united to the haze. In fact, after a while we were unable +to discern the outline of the coast, having to pursue our way with great +caution. + +After the lapse of four anxious hours, we had the great satisfaction to +hear the welcome sound of the fog-horn of _Manistee_, the county seat of +Manistee County, in Michigan. It is situated at the mouth of the +same-named river, which is navigable for vessels, drawing ten to twelve +feet of water, for the distance of one and one-half miles to Manistee +Lake. Largely engaged in lumber trade, the city has a score of saw-mills +and about as many shingle-mills, the latter of which produce annually +450,000,000 shingles, the largest number made at any one place in the +world. In consequence of the discovery in 1881 of a bed of solid salt, +thirty feet thick, extensive salt factories are being built. The +population of the city has rapidly increased in later years, comprising +about 14,000 residents at present. The surrounding district is especially +adapted for fruit-growing; and sportsmen are attracted to the Manistee +River and its tributaries by the abundance of the otherwise rarely found +grayling. + +Since we expected company on board the "Marguerite" in the evening--Mr. +Wilkinson, a citizen of Milwaukee, who intended to make us acquainted with +his wife, we went on shore immediately after dinner to view the city, so +as to return in time to meet our visitors. + +Manistee made the impression of a flourishing business town. The +comparatively long trading thoroughfare is a broad street nicely laid out, +and adorned with numerous stately buildings and spacious stores. + +Not long after our departure from Manistee, which occurred early on the +following morning, a sudden squall threatened us; and a few minutes later, +a terrific flash and peal broke almost simultaneously upon us, followed by +a violent shower. Fortunately, it lasted but a short time. The tempest +gradually ceased; the irregular and blinding flashes became fewer and the +thunder rolled less loudly. Gradually the scene changed to one of peaceful +beauty so that the rose light of the radiant sun-ball appeared in the +heavens; casting a new glory on the picturesque scenery of water and +shore. + +The surface of the lake had become calm; and speeding along, we enjoyed +the lovely weather which was not destined to continue. For, toward midday +a fresh breeze rippled the waters that by degrees were transformed into +towering waves, shaking their foamy crests, and tossing us angrily from +side to side; and we were not sorry when we reached the harbor of +_Muskegon_, about six miles from Muskegon City, situated on the same-named +river which here, four miles from its mouth, widens into Muskegon Lake. It +is the best harbor on the east side of the great lake. The city has daily +steamboat navigation with Chicago; and saws and ships enormous quantities +of lumber. Its principal manufactories are a number of foundries, machine +shops, and boiler works. The present population is estimated to comprise +about 24,000. + +While admiring the lovely scenery enhanced by an enchanting sunset, from +the deck of the yacht, our attention was distracted by approaching +footsteps. In the uncertain, fading daylight, we perceived a gentleman +accompanied by a lady--curiously regarding us--whom we invited on board +the "Marguerite." + +Mrs. and Mr. Wickham were the names by which this fair couple was +introduced. That they spent the evening in our company, was very +acceptable to us--as we but rarely had visitors on our pilgrimage. They +greatly admired our floating home, and as the moon arose to bathe us with +his silvery light, they took their departure. + +The young archer--morn--broke his arrows on the remote hills, walking +golden-sandaled down the lake, when we continued our voyage. + +The still waters were soon lashed into fury again by an unfavorable wind, +increasing toward midday to such a degree that we were glad to take refuge +in the harbor of _South Haven_, where we lingered until the dawn of +another day. + +Opposite the mooring-place of the "Marguerite" stood an edifice whose +interior we all longed to view. Having so unexpectedly become acquainted +with the Life-Saving Service on the occasion of our adventure near Thunder +Bay, we were anxious to learn more about that noble institution. In the +afternoon we set out for the South Haven Life-Saving Station whose +captain, an obliging gentleman, gave us very satisfactory explanations. He +first called our attention to the splendid qualities of the life-boat: +such as its power to right itself if upset; the capability of immediate +self-discharge when filled with water; its strength; resistance to +overturning; speed against a heavy sea; buoyancy; and facility in +launching and taking the shore. + +We then inspected the diverse apparatuses utilized for rescuing the +shipwrecked. + +A very clever contrivance, especially appropriate for saving invalids, +children, and aged persons is the metallic car, a small covered boat, +which can hold three or four persons who, entering by a comparatively +small aperture, are shut in and drawn ashore, safely protected from injury +even though overturned by the surf. + +For projecting a line over a stranded vessel a howitzer is used; and in +this way a communication is secured to the shore. The cork life-belts worn +by the men, are of the plan first designed by Admiral Ward. + +It is safe to say that the United States Life-Saving Service is chief +among the life-boat societies of other nations, both as regards the extent +of coast embraced, and the amount of work done. The whole support of this +service is provided for by annual grants from Congress. Besides its vast +coast line, it guards the shores of its great lakes. Since the +sea-bordering portions of America in many places are destitute of human +habitations, the constant employment of surfmen is required for the +express purpose of looking out for vessels in distress and manning the +surf-boats. It also necessitates the erection of houses of refuge +provisioned so as to afford shelter and food to shipwrecked sailors for a +considerable time at places, where without such provisions those who +escape the sea, would probably perish from hunger and exposure. + +The shores of the United States lakes and sea comprise over 10,000 miles, +embracing almost every variety of climate and formation of land. This +great extent of sea-board is divided into twelve districts with in all 244 +stations. Of these 182 are on the Atlantic, forty-nine on the lakes, and +twelve on the Pacific. Many of the stations are closed during the fine +months of the year; their crews being disbanded till the winter gales +again summon them to their heroic and dangerous work. That they render +noble service in this way, may be gathered from the annual reports. + +The official statement of 1893 shows that the disasters to shipping in +that year amounted to 427 cases; that on board of vessels thus endangered +there were 3,565 persons of whom 3,542 were saved. + +After we had thus enriched our knowledge referring to this humane +institution with its present effective system, we proceeded to the +neighboring shore of Lake Michigan, here forming a beautiful beach. The +polished and print-less sand studded with small, shining pepples spread +before us in vast expanse; and the magnificent waters of the lake +glittered in the sun-beams as though they were sown with diamonds. When +the surf came in, and the white fringe of the sliding wave shot up the +beach, the light color of the sand was deepened to a silvery gray. As much +as we marred and defaced its fine-grained, bright surface, it was ever +beaten down anew by the advancing and retreating waves. We had hardly +deserted this lovely spot, when our foot prints were washed away by the +ever returning sea. + +On Monday at an advanced hour in the evening we departed from South Haven. +Since the glories of the sunset, with its witchery of rose and gold, +promised a fine night, we decided to continue our voyage as far as +Michigan City. + +The panorama we witnessed during that nocturnal trip was as magnificent as +can be imagined. The full-orbed moon on the wave was beautiful; and so was +the landscape bathed in its light. + +Toward 10 o'clock we arrived at our destination, a town in La Porte Co., +Indiana. + +_Michigan City_ is the largest lumber-market in the State, and has +numerous manufacturing establishments. As a lake-port, it is a place of +considerable prosperity comprising a population of about 11,000. + +It was in the early morning, Tuesday, August 22nd, that we left Michigan +City. Having sailed along the coast of the lake for about three hours, we +discerned in the misty distance the site of the "Queen of the West." + +At twenty minutes to 9 o'clock, it became plainly cognizable. In +transports of delight we glanced at a vast, verdant tract of land adorned +with magnificent structures appearing to be of the purest marble; in their +matchless beauty imparting to the mind some grand allegorical _tableau_, +intending to convey the poet's idea of the New Jerusalem. + +It was the famous _White City_, the site of the World's Columbian +Exposition, that charmed our eyes and gratified our taste so much. No one +can adequately describe that sight as seen from the clear waters of the +lake.--I imagine that our illustrious Columbus must have been equally +affected as he beheld Guanahani, that fruitful island in its wild +luxuriance, on his first landing in the New World. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +STAY IN CHICAGO AND VISIT TO THE WORLD'S FAIR. + + +Our arrival in Chicago put an end to our pleasurable voyage comprising the +considerable length of 1,243 miles, during which + + "The waves were our pillow, + Our cradle the sea: + When rough was the billow + Not timid were we." + +This westward trip afforded us every hour a revelation of the surprising +growth of the nation that lives under the Stars and Stripes. My traveling +companions were equally delighted with this course, notwithstanding their +being preacquainted with that portion of the west, whose rapid development +makes it practically a new and another west every ten years. In fact, +America astonishes the world; and it is no common pleasure to study and +note the progress of this great republic of which Chicago is the second +city in commercial importance, as well as in population. + +We were anxious to obtain an adequate conception of the site of a city +that is the synonym of push and prosperity, and to which Congress had +awarded the World's Columbian Exposition. Therefore, the yacht was moored +inside the breakwater, near the mouth of the inlet, called the Chicago +River, which runs from the lake nearly one mile westward; then separates +into two branches, one flowing northwest, the other southwest; thus +dividing Chicago into three divisions, connected by more than thirty-five +bridges, and two tunnels laid under the bed of the river. This streamlet +used to empty into Lake Michigan; but a remarkable piece of engineering +caused it to change its course and so to speak, run "uphill." The Illinois +and Michigan Canal, with which the main branch of the river is connected, +was so deepened as to draw the water out from the lake, so that--through +this channel emptying into the Illinois River--the water of Lake Michigan +flows into the Gulf of Mexico by means of the Mississippi River. Had it +been later in the season, we might have decided to follow this watercourse +in order to view the fertile Mississippi River Valley, and to enjoy the +beauties of the sunny south. + +The largest vessels may be towed into the Chicago River, being supplied +with docks and water-slips and affording a dockage capacity of nearly +forty miles.--Originally named Chacaqua River, (the Indian word for +thunder, after the Indian Thor or Thunder God), it is supposed to have +given the city its name. + +At midday we left our anchorage--on which the eye of heaven shone almost +too hot--and undertook our first trip to the Fair Grounds. Seated on deck, +we inhaled the invigorating, fresh breeze sweeping over the lake and +modified by the burning rays of the sun that kissed the brilliant, blue +waters beneath, with his golden face, gilding them with heavenly alchemy. + +High ran our anticipations as we were approaching the renowned White City, +to which representatives of all nations have made a pilgrimage. + +At the expiration of about one-half hour, we reached the pier, destined +for the halting-place of yachts; and welcomed by the supervisor of the +harbor, we went on shore. + +The first impression was bewildering. Americans have reason to be proud of +what was to be viewed in Jackson Park; as such buildings no previous +generations of men have seen, congregated in this manner; and the display +of the achievements of science, art, and industries, exhibited in them, +has undoubtedly eclipsed all other expositions in the world's annals of +progress. + +It seems impossible to give so adequate a pen-picture of the World's Fair +as to impart to the reader an accurate idea of its true grandeur. Many +minds have essayed already to reproduce what they have witnessed there; +many pens have attempted to record exactly the incomparable impression the +exposition effected upon its visitors, but, it is safe to say, without +even faintly describing it; for, can language convey to a blind man what +"color" means, or to a deaf person the meaning of music?--No more can the +pen of the most gifted author adequately portray the World's Columbian +Exposition. If one would give to each building a volume; a shelf to the +Midway Plaisance; and to the exhibitions a whole library in way of +description, yet half of its beauties and wonders would not be told.-- + +Leaving the "Marguerite" at the North Pier, our attention was called to a +unique exhibit made by the U.S. Navy Department, a structure representing +a faithful model of a modern coast-line battle-ship. This full-sized +imitation _man-of-war_ _"Illinois"_ was completely equipped erected on +piling on the lake front, and surrounded by water, so as to give the +appearance of being moored to a wharf. Here the Government showed also a +war baloon, a light-house, a life-saving station complete with apparatus, +and a gun battery. + +Proceeding a little westward, we viewed a building, delightfully located, +bearing a strong resemblance to the National Museum at Washington. This +imposing edifice classic in style, and adorned by a central octagonal dome +was the _United States Government Building_; to the southward of which +rose the largest of the Exposition structures, the _Manufactures and +Liberal Arts Building_, notable for its gigantic but symmetrical +proportions, covering an area of more than thirty-one acres. + +Looking in a southern direction, we caught sight of the pier extending +1,000 feet into the lake, and affording a landing-place for steamers. It +was bounded on the east by the beautiful facade of the _Casino_, which +presented a decidedly Venetian aspect; its nine pavilions being in +communication both by gondolas and bridges. At the west end of the pier +stood thirteen stately columns emblematic of the Thirteen Original States +of the Union. + +Rising out of the lagoon, the colossal _Statue of the Republic,_ the +largest ever built in America, predominated over this charming scene. + +Beyond it extended a broad basin from which grassy terraces and broad +walks led on the southward to one of the most magnificent edifices raised +for the exposition, the _Agricultural Building_. In style of architecture +it pertained to the classic renaissance and was erected at a cost of about +$1,000,000. + +From the pier westward across the park, we walked through an avenue, +several feet long; affording a view of almost unparalleled splendor. +Encompassing a beautiful sheet of water, the majestic facades of imposing +buildings attracted our eyes; above all, a superb guilded dome shimmering +in the sun-light, and pertaining to the _Administration Building,_ which +was pronounced the gem and crown of the Exposition structures. In general +design in the style of the French renaissance, it was built at an expense +of about $550,000. + +Located at the extreme south of the park rose the stately _Machinery +Hall_, following classical models throughout, and being especially rich in +architectural lines and details. Its construction required a sum of +$1,000,000. + +Facing the Grand Avenue, our eyes rested with delight upon two immense +edifices on either side of the Administration Building, one for the +_Electrical_ and the other for the _Mining Exhibit_. + +Turning to the northward, we viewed the _Transportation Building,_ +exquisitely refined and simple in architectural treatment, although very +rich and costly in detail. + +On our right we beheld one of the most notable spots in Jackson Park, +(viz) _Wooded Island_, a gem of primitive nature, agreeably contrasting +with the grand productions of human skill surrounding it. Close by was the +_Palace of Horticulture,_ the largest structure ever erected for such +purpose, costing about $400,000. + +Proceeding more northward, we reached the entrance to the _Midway +Plaisance_, directly east of which stood, encompassed by luxuriant shrubs +and beds of fragrant flowers, like a white silhouette against the +background of old and stately oaks, the daintily designed _Woman's +Building_. + +On a well paved boulevard we entered the great "Highway through the +Nations." Formerly a promenade belonging to the South Park System and +connecting Jackson Park on the east and Washington Park on the west, it +was styled by the seekers of _plaisir_ "Midway Plaisance" signifying +"Pleasure-Way." This name has been retained by the Administration of the +World's Fair, whereas the country-lane of former times had undergone a +complete metamorphosis. We were unable to realize the radical character of +the transformation as we contemplated the enormous variety of attractions +here presented, more numerous and unlike any others ever brought together. +Therefore, it is a very difficult task to give the reader an exact idea of +the impression the Midway Plaisance effected upon its visitors, because we +generally derive our conception of a scene from the comparison it will +bear with similar spectacles. + +The "Highway through the Nations" constituted an attractive, novel, and +instructive addition to the Exposition. For, besides enlightening +ourselves in regard to the styles of structures--inhabited by the diverse +nations on the earth,--forming a fine array of villages, castles, towers, +pavilions, pagodas, mosques, and other displays of oriental and occidental +architecture, we viewed the natives of the various countries. There were +representatives of nearly all the races and tribes, constituting the human +population on our planet which is estimated to amount to 1,500,000,000 +men. We had a chance to study their features, manners, and customs; their +way of dressing, as well as their language and special occupations. Such +opportunities are only otherwise given to travelers around the globe. + +The rays of the descending sun--casting rosy reflections on the beautiful +panorama and the mammoth _Ferris Wheel_, with its gigantic form +overtowering the structures of the Midway Plaisance--gave us the signal +for abandoning this charming realm. + +Thus, directing our steps toward the Exposition Grounds, we arrived at the +northwestern portion of Jackson Park where we ascended the entrance to a +station of the _Columbian Intramural Railway_, the first and only electric +elevated railroad, operated by the Third Rail Trolley System.--Conveyed by +the driving power of electricity, we had a delightful ride affording a +fine view upon the northern part of the grounds. Scores of graceful +structures constituting a veritable town of palaces, embodied the best +conceptions of America's greatest architectural display. + +A picturesque group of buildings erected by the States and Territories of +the American Union, rose in a semicircle around the _Fine Arts Galleries_, +a palace costing half a million. Grecian-ionic in style, this edifice +represented a pure type of the most refined classic architecture. In the +western portion of this group--facing the North Pond--stood the _Illinois +Building_, adorned by a dome in the center, and a great porch looking +southward. + +Surrounded by lawns, walks, beds of flowers, and shrubs, the charming +structures of Foreign Nations were ranged on wide, curved avenues-- +affording an interesting aspect. + +Just south of the _Foreign_ and _State Buildings_ we observed a +considerable expanse of the lagoon, with inlet to the lake, encompassing +three islands. On the largest one stood--contrasting agreeably in +appearance with the other edifices--the _U.S. Fisheries Building_, +Spanish-Romanesque in style and flanked at each end by a curved arcade +connecting it with two polygonal pavilions. + +Leaving the Intramural Train at the North Loop, we arrived at the +Government Building; thus having completed our round-trip on the Fair +Grounds and Midway Plaisance. + +When we returned to our floating home, we had the satisfaction of having +obtained the best possible results of our first visit by properly +utilizing every minute. + +It will be obvious to the reader that the excursion just described, was +equivalent to a trip around the world; wherefore I am entitled to the +assertion that it even surpassed Nellie Bly's remarkable feat who needed +seventy-two days, six hours, and eleven minutes for accomplishing her +circumterraneous voyage. + +This success was due to the management of Mr. James, who made his +intelligence effectual, in unison with great experience, gained by having +attended the grand international expositions held in the course of several +decades in the different sections of the globe. + +Since there did not exist accommodations for a safe anchorage for yachts +along the piers of the White City, we were obliged to sail back to the +Chicago Harbor. The ride on the billows of Lake Michigan, however, was +very enjoyable after the heat of the day. Fanned by the cooling +sea-breezes, which we inhaled in the fullness of delight, our eyes rested +in perfect rapture on the glorious panorama of the grounds extending +toward the lake shore. The superb structures rising vaguely and obscurely +in a shadowy expanse under the gloom of the growing twilight, were later +beautifully illuminated by uncountable electric lights; from the powerful +arc-light of 8,000 candles to the delicate incandescent lamp of +one-sixteenth candle power gleaming like tiny fire-flies in the distance. +It filled us with amazement to cogitate, that human mind and manual skill +could create a spot on earth looking so much like a conception of +paradise. + +The next morning when corroborating our nerves by a hearty breakfast, Mr. +James announced to us the programme of the day which set forth that we +should witness in detail the attractions of the Midway Plaisance--a +proposal that pleased us very much. + +Having again disembarked at the pier of the Exposition Grounds, the +Intramural Railway conveyed us rapidly--running with a velocity of twelve +miles an hour--to the entrance of the International Highway. + +We commenced with the attractions at the right hand side--and having +passed the displays of the _Diamond Match Company_ and the _Workingmen's +Home_--the international Dress and Costume Exhibit, known as the _Congress +of Beauty,_ attracted our attention. Between forty and fifty pretty living +representatives pertaining to the fair sex of different nationalities, +races, and types were dressed in distinctive national or racial costumes. + +The _California Nursery_ and _Citrus Tree Exhibit_ separated this Beauty +Show from the _Electric Scenic Theater_, which may be regarded as a +triumph of the modern progress in the electrical science. It depicted the +changes of a beautiful Swiss Alpine scenery as such are gradually +occurring from dawn till night--representing the magical and most +wonderfully realistic effects ever produced by electric lamps. + +Visiting the _Libbey Glass Works_, we obtained a very clear idea of the +art of manufacturing glass--by following up the different processes of +melting, blowing, cutting, spinning, weaving etc. all of which were in +full operation in this exhibit. + +In fact, the endeavor of this company to instruct the spectator in every +detail of the work--was a complete success and exceedingly satisfactory. +The ingenious construction of their magnificent building was especially +adapted to enable the daily throngs--resorting to it--to have every +opportunity for observation; and judging from what we saw, and the various +comments we heard, we should be inclined to feel that the management had +every reason to be satisfied with their splendid effort. + +The artistic products manufactured solely by this company, and shown in +the diverse departments--as well as those, decorating the Crystal Art +Display Rooms--equal anything in the past and present, not excepting the +celebrated Bohemian and Venetian manufactures of world-wide fame; and +certainly the exhibition of cut glass made by the Libbey Company at this +Exposition, has established the fact, that foreign manufactures can no +longer claim to turn out the best artistic work; for truly, in that rich +and unrivaled display, the summit of clear glass making and magical +effects in cutting and polishing have been achieved. + +Especially attractive were the tapestries and fabrics woven from spun +glass. This was decidedly notable in the marvelous dress woven from one +loom for the Spanish Princess Eulalia at a cost of $2,500. That these +goods also serve as a canvas does for artistic work--was evidently proved +by the sundry beautiful effects of this kind in the Crystal Art Room.--It +would be impossible to enumerate the various articles produced in this +wonderful and interesting display; but it is safe to say--the working +exhibit of the Libbey Glass Company--in their palatial and costly +structure was one of the chief features of the Midway Plaisance and the +ever memorable Columbian Exposition. + +A gateway--reminding us of mediaeval times--ushered the visitor into the +_Irish Village_ and _Donegal Castle_, a representative exhibit of Irish +industry, art, and antiquity. The scenes there--were picturesque and +uniquely Hibernian. In one of the cottages Irish lace-making could be +noted; in another was shown by Hibernians the whole process of dyeing, +carding, spinning and weaving home-spuns as well as various other branches +of industrial developments in Ireland. + +A few steps sufficed to transfer us from here--a representation of the +extreme western portion of Europe to the most eastern country on the +Eastern Hemisphere--Japan; which fact demonstrated the verity: _Les +extrêmes se touchent_. Entering the Japanese bazaar, we observed Japanese +ladies and gentlemen selling articles manufactured in--and imported from +Nipon. + +A highly interesting study of the natives of West Java (Dutch East +Indies)--their occupations--and their bamboo huts--could be had in the +_Javanese Village_ exhibiting more than a hundred little men with bright +and cheerful Malay faces, and thirty-six short women whose graceful +movements were a source of attraction to thousands of visitors. + +This scene of the tropical regions stood in striking contrast with a +feature in immediate nearness--pertaining to a temperate clime--the +_German Village_. Here, in the spacious concert-garden shaded by the dense +foliage of numerous oak-trees, two German military bands, one of the +infantry and one of the cavalry--seventy-four men in all--gave grand _echt +deutsche Militaerconcerte_. The group of typical German peasant homes, the +Black Forest House, the Westphalian Inn, the Upper Bavarian Home, and the +Spreewald House, together with the Hessian Rural Town-hall, and the Castle +were exact reproductions of mediaeval times. A portion of this stronghold +from a remote date, was given up to the ethnographic museum; a collection +chiefly of implements of war and of chase, illustrative of all periods +beginning with the pre-historic and ending with the renaissance. An +attractive group in wax constituted the figure of Germania, surrounded by +German heroes from Arminius down to William I. + +The _Pompeii Panorama_--near by--showed a very realistic representation of +this city destroyed by the eruption of the Vesuvius in 79. This display +was succeeded by the _Persian Theater_ and the _Model of the Eiffel +Tower_. + +We left the crowded roadway, and entered the narrow _Street in Cairo_ +which made an imposing impression with its strange, oriental facades--the +picturesque shops--and the quaint overhanging upper stories of the ancient +Egyptian city. Natives of this African country--which is fertilized by the +waters of the Nile--manufactured and had for sale Egyptian, Arabian, and +Soudanese articles. Donkeys and camels were engaged in carrying visitors +who chose to admire the busy thoroughfare seated on the backs of these +animals. The native camel-drivers in their national costumes moved around +and mingled with the strangers--which gave the populated street a peculiar +charm to the eye, whereas the "Bum-Bum Candy" sold by Egyptian +confectioners, afforded a strange sensation to the palate of the visitor. + +Here, where the architecture, the surroundings, and the people were as far +removed from anything American as could well be imagined, we really--for +some minutes--were lost to all consciousness of being in that extremely +modern city, called Chicago. + +After having viewed the side attractions to which belonged the Egyptian +temple--resembling the temple of Luxor--the tombs of the ancient kings, +and fac-similes of mummies, we entered the _Algerian and Tunisian +Village_. Besides a theater, it contained a great number of booths or +bazaars in which a choice selection of goods of all kinds--peculiar to +Algiers--was for sale. + +Proceeding southward through the frequented avenue, we saw--in +succession--the _Kilauea Panorama_, a vivid picture of the great volcano +of _Hawaii_, with all the surrounding scenery--an _American Indian +Village_, showing the remnants of some of the greatest North American +Indian tribes, and their manner of living--and a _Chinese Village_ +including a theater, a joss house, and a bazaar. + +The most southwestern portion of the Midway Plaisance was occupied by the +"Wild East Show" where performances were given by Bedouin Arabs. With +their short Turkish swords--the cimeters--they accomplished feats of such +intrepidity and daring as to cause the spectators' blood to coagulate in +their veins. + +Bending our steps westward again, our attention was fixed upon the +attractions on the north; _id est_ on our right hand side. + +Very striking to our eyes were two exhibits the comparison of which +established the fact that they were as unlike each other as could be +fancied. Not only that the two villages contrasted greatly by their +external appearance; but the scenes and inhabitants that they encompassed, +were in direct opposition. Reader, can you realize that here from the +North Pole to the Equator there was but one step? _Laplanders_, from the +Arctic region in Europe, the next-door neighbors of barbarians from the +Torrid Zone in Africa? Although both low in the scale of humanity, the +fierce and savage _Natives of Dahomey_ with their repulsive habits +exhibited the characteristics of the very undermost order of mankind. + +But the mind was at once relieved from this sad picture of human +debasement by the refined and attractive scenes in the _Austrian Village_, +inclosing realistic reproductions of thirty-six buildings as they existed, +more than a century ago, in old Vienna, deservedly eulogized in the song: + + Es gibt nur a Kaiserstadt + Es gibt nur a Wien; + Da muss es praechtig sein, + Da moecht' ich hin! + +Having arrived at the center of the spacious promenade, we ascended one of +the six northern platforms, communicating by turns with thirty-six aerial +coaches, suspended by an iron axle to the periphery of the mammoth _Ferris +Wheel_. A conductor invited us to step into a coach, as the appropriate +moment had arrived, whereupon we entered a car having the seating capacity +of forty persons, and almost the size of an ordinary Pullman Palace Car. +Ere we were conscious of any movement, the monster wheel was slowly +revolving in response to the powerful machinery by which it was +operated--a trophy of the modern era of eminent progress. The total weight +of the moving mass was 1,200 tons; and its construction involved the +expenditure of $400,000. Reader, if you have not experienced the charm of +this circular ride through a circumference of about 785 feet, you hardly +can convey to your mind the conception of the fascination it afforded. +Since the motion of the coaches was almost imperceptible, we could enjoy +the trip--(viz)--two complete revolutions of the wheel--without the least +excitement naturally aroused by rapid movement. Imagine the sensation of +being carried up 250 feet on one side--and of being slowly lowered on the +other; fancy the enjoyment and delight when gradually gaining a complete +view of the Fair Grounds and the Midway Plaisance--a bird's eye-view of +the whole of Chicago--and also a good portion of Lake Michigan. Dear +reader, you will certainly acknowledge the fact that such a ride surpassed +any similar brief journey ever taken. For, what other device for +transportation can maintain the claim of enabling its passengers to look +upon the whole world during twenty-five minutes!-- + + "When you get used to the motion + Only delight you will feel: + Gone is each terrified notion + Once in the circle of steel. + And you enjoy the commotion + Clap and applaud with much zeal: + For it surpasses old ocean + To ride in the great 'Ferris Wheel.'" + +The sun--being almost too liberal in the expenditure of heat--made us long +for a refreshing breeze. Therefore we decided to ride in the +_Ice-Railway._ Here we had opportunity to feel the excitement caused by +velocity of motion. For a seventy mile-an-hour locomotive would have been +monotonous and tiresome in comparison with a dash around the ice-railway +track, containing 850 feet, and covering an elliptic space whose surface +had a coat of ice nearly an inch thick. Over this smooth and glistening +substance the bobsleigh was gliding with the speed of a toboggan and the +ease of a coaster to the merry jingle of sleigh bells. + +This exhibit--whose cost amounted to $100,000--gave an example of +inventive genius, and also of the successful application--in a novel +manner--of the principles of refrigeration. + +The beautiful building next to the Ice Railway environed an excellent +imitation _en miniature_ of the magnificent _Cathedral of St. Peter_ in +Rome, its size being one-sixteenth of the original. When viewing this +model, the elaborate papal throne, and the Vatican Guards in the exact +uniform of the pope's attendants, one might imagine to have been conveyed +into _la bella Italia_ by the agency of a magic wand. + +Promenading more eastward, we found ourselves _vis-a-vis_ the _Moorish +Palace_, a fine reproduction of Saracenic architecture, the famous +Alhambra in Granada, Spain. + +The attractions exhibited in the interior of this structure could, indeed, +bear a comparison with those offered in a realm of enchantment. The +optical illusions, produced by ingeniously arranged mirrors, were a +pleasing surprise to the visitor. Luxuriant palms decorating the +labyrinthian garden appeared to be endless in number--casting their shade +over hundreds of life-like figures in gaudy costumes. Each of these groups +in wax, was multiplied again and again in the perspective of mirrors. +Entering the palace, the visitor was unable to shake off the feeling of +perplexity caused by the extraordinary spectacles to be witnessed within +its walls. The most startling surprises were the bottomless well, the +cave, the monster kaleidoscope, and the panopticon. A touching scene, +produced in wax, represented the execution of the unfortunate Queen Marie +Antoinette. So realistic was its effect that many tender-hearted mortals +could not refrain from shedding tears of sympathy for the ill-fated +consort of Louis XVI of France. + +A personage of special interest in the _Turkish Village_ was "Far-a-way +Moses"--the celebrated guide and counselor of Americans, visiting the +shores of the Bosporus--who has been immortalized by Mark Twain. With a +pleasant smile his popular face, he gave a cordial greeting to every +visitor. + +The various scenes constituted a true reproduction of Ottoman life. The +decorations in the Turkish theater were in purely oriental style; and the +representations on the stage showed the manners and customs of the +countries embracing the Turkish Empire. The Bedouin Camp, north of the +grand bazaar, displayed the peculiarities of a nomadic life of those +Arabian tribes. + +Adjacent to a Turkish cafe, the _Panorama of the Bernese Alps_ was on +exhibition. A beautiful painting showed the grand scenery of Grindelwald, +the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau, Schreckhorn, Jura, the village of +Lauterbrunnen, and the little town of Thun. + +Ushered by a gate into the _Johore Village_, we viewed the habitations, +weapons, apparels, and curiosities of that Malay tribe. The performance +given by one of the natives stood in striking contrast with what we +understand by the art of dancing. In fact, it was more a series of +graceful poses with slow rythmic movements of hands and feet. This +peculiar dance effected a strange impression upon us; but seemed to amuse +our Baby Virginia beyond measure, who, on the arms of her faithful nurse, +attempted to produce movements similar to those she had just witnessed. + +The _South Sea Islanders' Village_ exhibited Malays from Sumatra, Borneo, +Samoa, Fiji, New Zealand, and other islands belonging to Oceanica. The +huts and their occupants had a strong resemblance with those of the +Javanese village whose inhabitants, however, were more agreeable-looking +people. + +Paying a visit to _Hagenbeck's Zoological Arena_, we first admired his +famous menagerie, which comprised rare varieties of quadrupeds, and a fine +collection of birds. + +In a circus modeled on the plan of the Coliseum of Rome, we witnessed +performances that evinced the wonderful docility Mr. Hagenbeck's animals +possess, and manifested the complete control their trainers have over +them. + +We had already seen innumerable circus feats; but those performed on this +occasion, surpassed them all. For, such a perfection in training ferocious +animals is extremely rare. _Vraiment_, the five Nubian giant lions +afforded an imposing aspect; and their performances were simply marvelous, +indicating that--while human ingenuity and skill subdued the great forces +of nature to the use of mankind--also the fierce, majestic king of beasts +is made submissive to man's will by his master power over all. + +_Industrial_, _Mining_, _Diving_, and _Horticultural Exhibits_ occupied the +remaining space of this eastern portion, whose extremity was taken up by +_Lady Aberdeen's Irish Village_. Here the displays were similar to those +inclosed in Mrs. Hart's Irish Village, already described; but the novel +feature of _Blarney Castle_ was the renowned Magic Stone, supposed to +possess extraordinary virtues. + +Thus, the unique Highway through the Nations afforded a prolific source +for sight-seeing, and furthermore, was a sore trial to our organs of +hearing. Musical and unmusical instruments of every description were in +operation--from the Javanese salendon and pelog to the tuneful +instruments, masterly handled by the excellent German bands. + +This visit to the Midway Plaisance established the fact, that the +theories--admitted by the study of geography--could not be brought into +consideration. How should space and time be in existence when a few steps +sufficed to convey us from the land of perpetual snow to the zone of +exotic plants and tropical fruit! + + "Who can all the tribes and nations name + That to Plaisance from every climate came?" + +The Chinese and Turk, German and Cingalese, Esquimaux and Javanese, +Irishman and Polynesian, Bedouin and Laplander, Austrian and Soudanese, +Syrian, Nubian, and Japanese--all had a temporary home within the limits +of a tract of land covering eighty acres. + +The sinking sun which crimsoned the structures of the Midway Plaisance, +exhorted us to abandon this place of international _rendez-vous_--and to +return on board the "Marguerite;" since she was to convey us back to the +Chicago Harbor. + +Gliding along on the crystalline lake, + + "We breathed the airs, not ruffling its face. + Until we came to a quiet place." + +The latter we chose for our nightly abode; again casting anchor in the +so-called Basin near the Chicago Breakwater. + +The approaching night fully deserved its title--the season of silence and +repose. The atmosphere was unusually mild. In the eastern portion of the +sky the light of _Luna_ grew brighter and brighter. Her large, white +circle silvered the tranquil waters and the environing scenes. In front of +us at the airy distance, we viewed the beautiful White City rising from +out the wave as from the stroke of the enchanter's wand; being brilliantly +illumined. Around us lights of many colors flashed from vessels of every +description that lay moored in our vicinity. The scenic beauty of the +surroundings, the balmy air, the charming quietude on the lake--all this +fascinated us in such a manner as to make us reluctant to seek the repose, +to which we were entitled by the long day's extraordinary experiences. + +On arriving at the Exposition Grounds the following morning, we observed +that--in spite of the early hour--the promenades were unusually +frequented. This fact was due to the celebration of the Illinois Day which +had attracted a multitude of citizens from Chicago and environs. In +accordance with our unanimous desire--to first view the interior of the +largest edifice, we entered one of its four great entrances designed in +the manner of triumphal arches. The MANUFACTURES BUILDING was erected for +the purpose of accommodating all classes of leading industries--the +products of modern machinery and man's skillful handiwork--which, in this +epoch of constant progress, have attained a high stage of perfection. And +comparing the achievements of the present age with those recorded in the +annals of history, proves that opinion. + +Having stepped into the central aisle at the northern end of the mammoth +structure, we found ourselves in a broad street, called Columbia Avenue. +Glancing around, we were dazzled by the resplendent glory of an aspect +almost overpowering. The fine display included those exhibits which +exemplified most advantageously the modern industrial progress made by the +various nations on the globe. Artistic pavilions, oriental pagodas, and +quaint kiosks had been provided for most of the exhibits. The United +States section--covering the entire range of manufactures, and extending +from the extreme northwestern corner to the avenue east and west--evinced +the high rank of the Union in the industrial world in consequence of its +uncommon wealth, and the inventive genius of Americans in the production +of labor-saving devices and improved machinery. + +All the great firms were represented, commending the abnormal variety of +domestic industries. It was, indeed, a matter of difficulty to decide +which of them was paramount. Tiffany's costly exhibits in jewels, +especially diamonds, housed in a beautiful pavilion, attracted the +visitor's eyes. + +Opposite this structure, Germany had a stately building. Gobelin +tapestries and handsome furniture adorned its interior. The elegant rooms +were modeled after the reception _salon_ of the Imperial Palace in Berlin, +and that of King Louis of Bavaria. All the various products of industrial +pursuits--inclosed in this pavilion--manifested the intelligence and +dexterity of the German nation. + +Austria had a rich display, principally in jewelry and ornamental +decorations, in an adjoining edifice. A splendid collection, including +everything in the line of manufactures, was shown in the English Pavilion, +which rose south of the German exhibits. Facing the former, France +occupied a structure whose walls were adorned with costly tapestries, and +whose ceramic, furniture, and household decorations were worthy of the +highest admiration. Next to the Belgian section a sumptuous pavilion +housed an enormous outlay of diverse Russian manufactures. + +At the southern end of Columbia Avenue a magnificent building formed the +gateway to a rich collection of Italian art ware and industries. The +handsome Spanish Pavilion was succeeded by typically Persian exhibits +consisting prominently of carpets, curtains, silk needlework, and +tapestries. Mexico, the land of _mañana_ and _poco tiempo_ was represented +by costly decorations and art feather-work. The facade of the Siamese +structure--close by--covered with gold leaf, was imposing and attractive. +Displays of manufactured goods had been made by scores of other countries, +all of which to enumerate would be an impossibility. + +As we reached the northwestern portion of the gigantic building, we were +delighted with the sight of the Japanese Pavilion, one of the most +valuable structures. Upon its construction the Japanese government had +expended a great amount of money. The superb exhibits in works of art, +bric-a-brac, and other exquisite manufactures brought to view by this +nation, evinced an eminent talent and great ingenuity. + +The Mikado--to whom is due the rapid progress civilization has made in his +country within the last ten years--was the first of the foreign monarchs +to demonstrate an active interest in the exposition. + +The melodious chimes resounding from the belfry of a clock-tower in the +center of Columbia Avenue, caused us to take notice of the rapidly +elapsing time. To our surprise, the immense time-piece indicated an +advanced hour in the afternoon. + +We could not abandon the superb temple, so amply filled with the products +of human industry, embracing that which was regally magnificent, as well +as that most applicable to our daily needs--without an enthusiastic +thrill. If man is weak in many things, he is also grand in much; and every +thoughtful observer must have paused upon this threshold to pay a tribute +to that untiring energy which must make the world better for its existence +and progress. + +We entered the next great structure to the northwest. Here, the GOVERNMENT +of the UNITED STATES from its Executive Departments, the Smithsonian +Institution, the U.S. Fish Commission, and the National Museum, exhibited +such articles and materials as illustrate the function and administrative +faculty of the government in time of piece, as well as its resources as a +war power. + +Taking the south-entrance, our attention was first turned to the +collection of the Smithsonian exhibits. They showed the results of +scientific investigations during the forty-seven years of its existence, +and the scope of its work. + +The contributions from the National Museum represented the natural +resources of the United States: Rare specimens of the American fauna; +illustrations showing the geological variations within the limits of the +United States and the utilization of nature's rich gifts bestowed upon +this country. This department gave us occasion to obtain an entire idea of +the enormous melioration, arts and industries have experienced in modern +times--by means of exhibits demonstrating the history and development of +ceramics, graphic arts, musical instruments; as well as many important +trades from the most primitive stages to the present day. Here also were +interesting studies in ethnology, prehistoric anthropology, archeology, +religious ceremonials, zoology, mineralogy, and geology. + +The Treasury Department--more westward--contained models, pictures, +charts, and diagrams elucidating the Marine Hospital Service, Coast and +Geodetic Survey, the Mint of the United States, the Bureau of Engraving +and Printing, the U.S. Lighthouse Establishment, the Bureau of Internal +Revenue, the Register's Office, and the Bureau of Statistics. + +In the adjoining division assigned to the Postoffice, we could trace the +subject of transportation which plays so prominent a part in the history +of civilization--by means of models, drawings, and pictures from the most +incipient stages to the modern uses of steam and electricity. + +The northwestern portion of this interesting building was given up to the +Department of the Interior; embracing the Patent Office, the Bureau of +Education, the Census Office, and the U.S. Geological Survey. + +In the rotunda we viewed the "_Big Tree_," a section thirty feet in +length, cut from Sequoia Gigantea, a tree 300 feet high whose diameter at +the base covered a space of twenty-six feet. It grew in the Sequoia +National Park in the charming clime of California. Under the central dome +were also shown 138 colonial exhibits--relics of historic value from days +long gone by. + +The War Department was well represented in all its branches; regarding +uniforms and equipage, means of transportation, military engineering, +shooting apparatuses, ammunition, etc. + +Having visited the State and Justice Departments, we repaired to the +division in which the government displayed (in the Department of +Agriculture) a very complete and comprehensively arranged collection of +grains obtained in this and other countries. + +Very interesting were the adjacent exhibits, presenting to view the topics +of food adulteration, entomology, pomology, botany, ornithology, and +mammalogy; together with experiments in fibre investigation. + +Betaking ourselves to the northern division, we were instructed--by +various illustrations--of the methods employed by the scientific branch of +the Fish Commission in determining the habits, peculiar to denizens of +water. Models and apparatuses showed the results of Fish Culture. + +The displays in this unique building covering almost all the branches of +modern science and arts, bore testimony to the fact that the United States +now rank with the most powerful nations on the globe; and to this +attainment only a little more than one century of development was +requisite. This says everything for American enterprise and genius--and a +country so young in a very old world. + +The circumstance of its being a calm evening--with the prospect of a +pyrotechnic display later--permitted us to remain on the Fair Grounds +longer than we usually did; hence we determined to visit still another +structure. + +By crossing a bridge over the lagoon, we arrived at the _Fisheries +Building_. In the main edifice we first saw fishing-tackles, nets, and +other apparatuses used by fishermen, and shown by the American Net and +Twine Co. The contiguous space to the right was given up to the exhibits +of several States in the Union, especially noted for fisheries, and of +various foreign countries as Japan, the Netherlands, Canada, France, Great +Britain, Russia, and Norway. Walking through a curved arcade, we beheld on +either side aquaria of an enormous capacity, inclosing both denizens of +fresh and salt water. It is safe to say the display of aquatic life made +here, could rival the greatest permanent aquaria in existence; not only as +to their voluminousness, but the immense variety of their specimens. +Especially striking to the eye was a magnificent group of gold fishes. The +huge bull-cat fish and the gigantic turtle were conspicuous by their +monstrousness. We removed to the eastern extremity of the Fisheries +Building, forming a spacious circular pavilion. In the rotunda a basin, +twenty-six feet wide, presented a beautiful scenic effect. Over rocks +picturesquely arranged, the silver meshes of a brook wound their way, +forming here and there white gushes of waterfall which contrasted +agreeably with the moss covered stones, and the semi-aquatic plants. The +latter adorned the pool below, in which golden-hued fishes moved lightly +to and fro. The inspection of the angling pavilion at the extreme western +side of the Fisheries Building completed our visit in this fine structure, +whose exhibits demonstrated largely the fishery wealth of the United +States. + +Taking advantage of the extraordinary calmness of the atmosphere, our +mindful commodore resolved to moor the yacht in vicinity of the Exposition +Grounds. For, he wished to give us opportunity to witness the display of +pyrotechnics announced for the latter part of the evening, in +solemnization of the Illinois Day. Therefore, the "Marguerite" conveyed us +to a place which proved exceedingly favorable for our design. Here, our +floating home was anchored. Enjoying a full vista of the White City, we +found a prolific source of admiration in the grand electric spectacles. +The illumination of the _Columbia fountain_ in front of the Administration +Building, and the display of two electric fountains in the western +extremity of the South Pond, were magical in effectiveness. Wonderful +flash-lights blazed from the tops of the tallest towers, surmounting the +larger structures. Whenever the operator threw the search-light +investigably over the yacht, we shut our eyes spontaneously at its +dazzling brilliancy. + +As the gathering shadows of night wrapped land and water in darkness, the +hour arrived in which the visitors on the Fair Grounds--who seemed to be +almost as numerous as the sands on the shore--expected to view the scenic +effects produced by means of fire. + +We sat on the deck of the yacht as comfortably as in our _boudoirs_ at +home. Nevertheless, we were able to enjoy _ad libitum_ the same sight that +so many others in the White City could only see with difficulty, on +account of the unusual throngs. When we reflected on this circumstance--so +much in our favor--our hearts were filled with gratitude toward our +commodore, who had selected this excellent locality. From here we admired +the exceedingly fine pyrotechnic displays. Girandoles pierced the sky in +all directions, with rushing lines of fire. Sky-rockets exhibiting rich +hues of purple, red, and green ascended through the air; and when reaching +the highest point of their blazing paths, they discharged beautiful +garnitures of floating stars, sparks, crackers, serpents, gold and silver +rain. Tourbillions mounting and rotating through the atmosphere, formed +brilliant spiral curves of fire. Splendid effects of changing color were +brought to view by revolving fire-wheels. An appropriate _finale_ +constituted the burning of the American flag, which bore a sublime +character in the brightness of fire. + + "Flag of the free heart's hope and home, + By angel hands to valor given: + Thy stars have lit the welkin dome, + And all thy hues were born in heaven" + +As the first faint smile of the morning peeped over the eastern wave, I +rose--greatly refreshed by a sound sleep. Coming on deck, I found that +the sun's unclouded orb already poured its rays of light upon the earth. + +Our eyes rested with delight on the White City throned on its numerous +isles, looking like a sea Cybele--ascending from the lake with her tiara +of proud towers. + +At our arrival on the Fair Grounds, Mr. James thoughtfully provided us +with guides and rolling-chairs--vehicles which reminded us of the Japanese +Jin-riki-sha. + +The main entrance of the AGRICULTURAL BUILDING--adorned on either side by +mammoth Corinthian pillars--ushered us into a vestibule, richly ornamented +with appropriate statuary. From here, we reached a rotunda surmounted by a +gigantic glass dome. When looking about on the main floor, we fancied +ourselves to be in a city of pavilions. For, the States of the Union as +well as the foreign nations had environed their displays with magnificent +little temples and pagodas. To a great extent, they formed exhibits +themselves, because in most cases the chief products of the respective +country had been utilized for their construction. Nebraska, for example, +had employed sweet corn for the erection of its pavilion. + +Every state and territory was represented by its productions; the Northern +States with Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye, and other cereals; the +South with cotton, rice, sugar, etc. Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, +and Tennessee evinced their noted superiority in the culture of the +nicotian plant, which is in such great favor with the consumers of +tobacco. + +Agricultural and other food displays were shown in great varieties by the +foreign countries. In the German section the gigantic Chocolate Tower +(built of several hundred tons of chocolate by the famous firm "Gebrueder +Stollwerck" in Cologne) compelled admiration. The Liebig exhibit of canned +and preserved meat was a prominent feature of this division. Great Britain +showed specimens of grain from the English experimental grounds, +representing the effects of artificial fertilization on the various seeds. +The contributions made by Canada embraced grain, seeds, and roots; and its +eleven ton cheese constituted one of the unique exhibits in this edifice. +As in all great departmental structures, Japan was well represented. It +had a fine display of its chief exports--tea, rice, and raw silk. Russia's +showing covered a space of 32,000 feet. New South Wales, France, Mexico, +Austria, Denmark, Sweden, and numerous other foreign countries +demonstrated, likewise, the variety and wealth of their natural resources. + +Besides the farm products of the world in all their diversity and +perfection, agricultural machinery was exhibited: Devices of every +description from the most primitive implements to the highly improved +machines as they are in use at the present day. The ingenious arrangement +of this display enabled the visitor to perceive at a glance the enormous +progress made in that branch of industry. Thus, we viewed in the annex of +the main floor one of the most perfected plows--the "Queen"--a trophy of +modern inventiveness. And beside it stood an implement, which reminded us +by its simplicity and unwieldiness of an apparatus, described in mythology +as used by _Ceres dea agriculturae_--when teaching to mankind this +important occupation. + +The south-western portion of the first floor was covered with instructive +contributions of American agricultural colleges and experiment stations. +They embraced the entire field of scientific research in all branches of +husbandry; illustrating the most improved methods of cultivation, and +explaining how the best results may be secured. + +The great galleries contained a fine wool exhibit, an interesting apiary +display, dairy implements, and a vast collection of manufactured food +products. + +The multitudinous objects brought to view in this building, proved beyond +doubt, that the standard of excellence in that ancient occupation has been +achieved mainly with the assistance of scientific researches. + +A colonnade formed the connecting link between the Palace of Agriculture +and the Machinery Hall. In its center, from an archway--leading to the +_live-stock exhibit_--we enjoyed a fine view down the lagoon--extending +nearly a mile in length. + +As adjuncts to the agricultural department, may be regarded the displays +in the _Dairy_ and _Forestry Buildings_. + +On entering the PALACE OF MECHANICAL ARTS, three elevated traveling cranes +running from end to end of the structure, attracted our attention. They +had been utilized in the work of construction, as well as in moving the +machines presented to view. The platforms erected upon them, gave us +occasion to look upon the entire machinery exhibition. The driving power +used in the main building and annex was steam; excepting two small +sections driven by electric motors. Adjoining the south side of the +edifice extended the enormous power plant. It supplied the Machinery Hall +with a total steam power of about 3,000 horses generated by twelve +engines. The entire plant, comprising over sixty steam-engines, and +operating 127 dynamos, represented a most stupendous display of mechanical +energy hitherto unequaled. Its total capacity was equivalent to 20,000 +H.P. + +The domestic exhibits located in the western portion of the main +building--but mostly in the annex, revealed the marvelous progress made +during the last decades in this wonderfully prospering country. Shown by +great firms from almost every state and territory were devices of various +forms: Motors and apparatuses for the generation and transmission of +power--fire-engines and other appliances for extinguishing a +conflagration--machine tools and devices for working metals--machinery for +the manufacture of textile fabrics and clothing, for cutting wood, for +typesetting, printing, embossing, book making and paper working, +lithography, and photo-mechanical process, for working-stone, clay, and +other minerals. In short, there were machines of every description +employed in all industrial pursuits imaginable; yea, even appliances for +facilitating the housekeepers' daily duties as laundry- and dish-washing +machines. + +In fact, it must require a considerable effort to excogitate novel +labor-saving devices. Nevertheless, man's ever active ingenuity constantly +increases the number of meliorated contrivances. + +The pump exhibit was grouped around a tank of water, comprising an area of +7,500 feet. Here at the junction of the main hall and annex, scores of +modern pumps were in active operation. + +Of the foreign countries we found Germany best represented, quantitatively +as well as qualitatively. The other prominent displays were made by +France, Great Britain, Canada, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Italy, Mexico, New +South Wales, Austria, and Switzerland. + +Here, the mechanical engineer was enabled to make studies of incalculable +profit for his professional career; and even the lay mind received a vast +amount of information. + +We abandoned the Machinery Hall at its northern extremity, and repaired to +the most magnificent structure on the Exposition Grounds. The exterior of +the ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, so rich in architectural treatment, had +compelled our admiration, to be sure; but the interior features even +exceeded it in splendor. The four mammoth entrances were beautifully +adorned by statuaries of emblematic character. There exist but few +edifices of similar character, whose ornamentations rival those of its +interior dome, which rose 200 feet from the floor. + +The four corner pavilions, four stories high, contained offices for the +various departments of the Administration; Board and Committee rooms; the +Postoffice; a Bank, etc. + +An exhibit, manifesting the unrivaled wealth of the republic, and placed +in the center of the rotunda on the first floor was an excellent +reproduction of the Capitol in Washington in miniature, erected of silver +coins: indeed a master-piece. I shall leave it to the reader to find out +how many of the half dollar-pieces were needed for the construction of +this unique building, contributed by the U.S. Government. To our regret +Mr. George R. Davis, Director-General of the Columbian exposition, whom we +intended to call upon, was absent. So we determined to have the +ELECTRICITY BUILDING next in our programme. + +The sundry appliances of electricity dispersed in all parts of the +grounds, gave us already a conception of the incomparable rapidity with +which it has developed--both as an industry and science. The intramural +railway demonstrated the latest application of electric motor power to +elevated railroads. + +The illumination of the grounds and buildings showed the marvelous +progress achieved in electric lighting, and the expertness in obtaining +brilliant spectacular effects. The electric launches on the lagoons +manifested the usage of electricity for water-transportation. + +All these practical exhibits represented purely commercial features, +whereas the displays in the building--we just had entered--offered a field +of relevations as regards the extraordinary accomplishments in the +electrical science. They embraced all the improvements from the earlier +inventions to the latest marvels. + +In the southern portion of the main floor, the United States showed +various devices for creating the three economic commodities--light, heat, +and power. + +With great interest we inspected the numerous apparatuses illustrating the +phenomena and laws of electricity--the instruments for electrical +measurements--the electric batteries--and the machines for producing +electrical currents by mechanical power. How transmission and regulation +of these currents are effected, could be studied by a vast number of +devices. + +A very interesting group constituted the electric motors and their +manifold applications as to street and other railways; to mining, to +elevators, pumps, printing presses, and domestic appliances. + +The creation of light by electricity was beautifully elucidated by the +weird illumination of the Edison Light Tower in the center of the +building, and the Egyptian Temple in its south-eastern portion. Countless +incandescent lamps were glowing in all the colors of the rainbow. The +luminary effect gave us the impression as if a fiery serpent was +meandering along these iridescent glass-tubes with inimitable velocity. + +Among the inventions of later date may be reckoned the use of electricity +in heating; especially for industrial operations as electric forging, +welding, brazing, tempering, etc. + +The lay mind is almost incapable of estimating the utilarian capacity of +this great property. Even many branches of modern sciences have received +eminent advancement by its utilization; such as surgery, dentistry, +therapeutics, metallurgy, chemistry, etc. + +Germany and France made the most commendable foreign display. Great +Britain, Brazil, Austria, Italy, Japan, and Canada had contributed in +accordance with the development of this novel industry within their +territory. + +The gallery was devoted to the wire exhibit and lighter scientific +apparatuses. Here were placed all the recent improvements applied to +telephony and telegraphy. + +Professor Elisha Gray's sensational invention--the telautograph--in active +operation, attracted many spectators. It is a very ingenious contrivance, +of which I have given a detailed description in my pamphlet on +electricity--recently published in Cincinnati, O., by the Burgheim +Publishing Co. + +The great number of exhibits demonstrated the achievements in the economic +usage of electricity during an amazingly short period. In fact, the +electrician has obtained unequaled results in his profession. To him is +due--to a great extent--the high stage of perfection in sciences, arts, +and industries at the present day. + +Nevertheless, the field of electrical scientific researches is by no means +exhausted. However, an entirely new era will have dawned, when the +ever-increasing knowledge reveals to an ingenious inventor a method to +apply the electric current to every-day-usage as easily and inexpensively +as we utilize water at present. + +Then the epoch has appeared which may be properly styled the "_Happy_" or +"_Golden Age_." For, many cares and sorrows will be removed at once. + +The conscientious housekeeper, for instance, whose domestic duties often +exhaust her bodily strength, will find her burdens greatly lightened. She +has no more to suffer from the intolerable heat of her cooking-stove, +while furnishing repasts on oppressive summer days. The electric current +will cause the water to boil--the meat to broil--and the potatoes to fry. +Yea, her dinner will be cooked ere she is conscious of that fact. + +In like manner the electric flat-iron will smoothen her linen without +fatiguing her. But not only the lady of the house will rejoice; also the +poor, hen-pecked husband will be in transports of delight, as it will make +his path easier in many ways. The constant complaints he was hitherto +obliged to endure, will grow mute for ever, and the curtain lecture will +be no more. + +Furthermore, should circumstances compel the active business man to part +with his wife for a long time, the marvelous inventions enable their +mutual intercourse during the separation as if time and space were unknown +factors. The lady need not suffer long from inquietude concerning her +husband's safe arrival; for the receiving instrument of her telautograph +reproduces instantaneously his own handwriting. A parcel, sent to her by +express, contains a cylinder to the improved phonograph. When bringing it +in proper contact with this wonderful instrument, she hears her consort's +voice, just as if he was by her side, and a thousand leagues were but a +few inches. Moreover, Edison's kimetograph portrays the beloved features +of her absent spouse. She is now perfectly consoled; for the radiant +expression of his countenance manifests health and happiness. + +Having left the imposing Electricity Building, we repaired to a structure +in close proximity dedicated to exhibits of the mineral kingdom. Never +before, the records of international expositions gave account of a similar +fact; namely, that the display made of MINES AND MINING was so capacious +as to require the erection of a special edifice. Its size and +architectural beauties rivaled those of the great structures in Jackson +Park. The magnificent arched entrance of the north front was richly +embellished with sculptural decorations emblematic of mining and its +allied industries. This spacious gateway led us to the main floor, which +presented a spectacle so weird that its impression cannot be easily +effaced. In temples and pavilions of ineffable gorgeousness were exhibits +of gems and precious metals of dazzling beauty. Useful ores and their +products, building stones, soils, salt, petroleum--indeed, everything that +man furthers from the dark entrails of the earth, was offered to +inspection. + +Besides the mineral resources of the world in their original state, the +displays embraced many devices of mining machinery; such as pumps and +engines used in mining, moving, and delivering ores; apparatuses for +breaking out ore and coal; for crushing and pulverizing; for reducing +metals, for instance the extraction of gold and silver by milling, +lixiviation, and fire; furthermore, boring and drilling tools; grinding +and polishing substances, etc. + +The galleries containing especially the metallurgical collection, had the +appearance of the scientific department of a museum combined with the +laboratory and library of a university. + +Moreover, there were offered to view many interesting and instructive +working models, various unique exhibits, and thousands of geological +specimens. + +Germany, France, and New South Wales were the leading foreign countries in +this building. Great Britain and her numerous colonies occupied the +largest collective space. The brilliant outlay of the Cape Colony included +40,000 rough diamonds, and illustrated the method of polishing them. +Canada's mineral showing was so ponderous as to exceed the weight of 125 +tons. It comprised every known species of mineral, marble, and granite in +that country. In this enormous collection we discovered a block of pure +nickel weighing 4,600 pounds as well as very large nuggets of native gold +and silver. Mexico made its most extensive contributions to this +departmental structure. Brazil, the Argentine Republic, Russia, Spain, +Greece, Italy, Japan, Belgium, Austria, Ecuador, and other foreign nations +were likewise well represented. + +The most prominent exhibits were grouped in the eastern section of the +ground floor. They proved the unexcelled mineral wealth of the United +States, particularly in iron, the annual production exceeding 10,000,000 +tons. + +Pennsylvania took the leading place being pre-eminent in her iron and +steel industries. Her supremacy in the production of "black diamonds" was +manifested by a rich display; one trophy from her immense coal-mines was a +shaft of coal sixty-two feet high, and ten feet square. Colorado's fine +exhibit of precious metals had, as an appropriate frame, a beautiful +pavilion erected entirely from her local products. The abundance of gold +in this important mining state is evinced by the fact that twenty-one of +her thirty-three counties are producing that most desirable and malleable +of all metals. + +California--nicknamed the "Golden State"--showed among her vast resources +gold, silver, platinum, quicksilver, copper, lead, zinc, iron, tin, +graphite, crystal, alabaster, corundum, chrysolites, tourmalines, garnets, +diamonds, and other gems. Montana had most largely contributed to this +departmental structure, and inclosed her display of precious metals in a +temple adorned by the famous statue of Justice. Cast from pure silver +valuing $315,000, and modeled after the celebrated actress--Mademoiselle +Rehan--it was set upon a pedestal of gold, forming altogether a work of +art of rare magnificence. + +Michigan illustrated attractively her great copper industry; the deposits +of this metal among the primary rocks of her northern section being the +richest in the world. + +Of special interest were the mining products of New Jersey. This state +furnished minerals not found anywhere else; for instance the +franklinite--a compound of iron, zinc, and manganese--named from Dr. +Franklin. + +Missouri, the first state in the Union to place exhibits in the Mines +Building, environed the same with a beautiful pavilion built from local +products. + +The curiosities included in the various State and Territorial displays, +were too numerous to give an account of them all. + +Special features were--a miniature coal-mine shown by Iowa; a section of +the world-renowned Mammoth Cave in Kentucky; a statue of rock salt +representing Lot's wife, a contribution from Louisiana; a tunnel +containing a double tramway for the carrying of ore displayed by +Pennsylvania; a model of the largest lead-reducing works in the world from +Missouri; and a miner's cabin built of mineral specimens from the +different counties in the territory of New Mexico. + +All the mining exhibits--in their selectness and profusion--gave evidence +of the inexhaustible wealth yet stored up for man's future uses +notwithstanding the geological fact, that the earth's crust has no great +profundity compared with its diameter. + +The "_Golden Door_" an immense archway enriched to an extraordinary degree +with carvings, paintings, and overlaid with gold leaf, ushered us into the +TRANSPORTATION BUILDING. It was dedicated to present the origin, growth, +and development of the various methods of abridging distance used in all +parts of the inhabited globe--from remote antiquity up to the present day. + +We were charmed with a striking vista of richly ornamented colonnades +which added considerably to the impressive effect of the exhibits. The +latter comprised three general divisions: the railway--marine--and +ordinary road vehicle transportation. + +To the first mentioned--as most important--a space of over eight acres had +been devoted. About one-eighth of this area was covered with the "Railways +of the World," an exhibit of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway Co., showing +the development of locomotives and cars from the earliest days to the +modern time. One of the unique features in the American Railroad Section +was the operation of air brakes on a train of a hundred cars, the longest +ever witnessed in a single series. + +In the center aisle of the annex, we inspected the chief display of the +Pullman Company, a complete train sumptuously equipped. It embraced +specially built Pullman Cars of the most luxurious character. The +representation of the New York & Chicago Limited Express was, without +doubt, the finest railway train ever constructed. + +We received a very adequate idea of the wonderful achievements--evincing +the genius of the age in which we live--in railway conveyance, by the +out-of-door exhibit of the N.Y. Central & Hudson R.R. Co., at the southern +extremity of the annex. Here, the contrast between past and present was +most sharply drawn: The first train, ever used for traffic in this +country, and running between Schenectady and Albany, N.Y.--the opening of +this road was celebrated on the 24th of September, 1831--with its simple +De Witt Clinton engine, was beside a locomotive of gigantic proportions, +the fastest in the world. This stupendous piece of machinery constituted a +portion of the Vanderbilt enterprise. + +In the German Section, two locomotives and seven kinds of +_Eisenbahnwagen_, enabled us to decide upon the relative advantages of +this foreign system and the American method of railway transportation. +Great Britain contributed a complete train and locomotive, also a model of +one of the original Stephenson locomotives--the "Rocket." The Railway +Division of France comprised exceedingly interesting French locomotives, a +car, and many models. In the Canadian exhibit, a complete transcontinental +train compelled admiration. Its cars built of solid mahogany, and lighted +by electricity, were constructed and equipped by the Canadian Pacific +Railroad Company. Other foreign nations made their contributions to the +railway division by models or illustrations of different kinds; +prominently Austria, Belgium, Mexico, New South Wales, Sweden, and Norway. + +The means of water transportation were so diversified that their +multiplicity can distinctly be conceived by those only who have viewed +them _in persona_. + +There were represented: the birch-bark canoe from Alaska--a Norwegian +steamship in miniature--the bimba or log canoe from Africa--the Bohemian +propeller--corials from British Guiana--the Japanese pleasure-boat +"Hoomaru"--the padda boats from Ceylon--the caique from Turkey; +furthermore, models of Spanish war-vessels--Malay boats--Swedish +ice-yachts--folding boats from Canada--Chinese war-ships--barges from +Burmah--French torpedo boats--characteristic coast-vessels from India-- +Venetian gondolas--Dutch coast sailing boats--the caravels, Santa Maria, +Nina and Pinta, exhibited by Genoa--Siamese boats--life-boats--naptha +launches--and a great number of small craft shown by the United States. + +Of historic interest was the old _bateau_ employed by early French traders +from Quebec, and a model of a boat showing the style used on the Sea of +Galilee in the time of Christ. + +The artistic reproductions in miniature of various American, British, and +German ocean steamers played an attractive part in this division. Among +the models of war vessels was the representation of the ill-fated English +cruiser "Victoria," considered to be the finest marine model ever +constructed. + +A section from the center of a modern Transatlantic liner reached to the +top line of the gallery; exhibiting a complete interior of an American +steamer. + +The development of wheeled vehicles from the first inceptive idea of the +wheel to the present appreciable methods of its use was comprehensively +illustrated. The exhibits were so arranged that the different stages of +improvement could be readily noticed. + +The methods employed for conveyance on common roads were shown by +hand-barrows--carts--trucks--drays--farm wagons--sprinkling carts--freight +wagons--breaks, barges, wagonettes for pleasure parties--omnibuses--cabs-- +hansoms--pleasure carriages, coaches for four or six horses, Victorias, +broughams, dog-carts, buggies, phaetons, etc.; besides sleighs--snow +shoes--steam and electric carriages--ambulances for the sick and +injured--hearses; furthermore, bicycles and tricycles--rolling chairs for +invalids--baby carriages; in short, vehicles of every possible description. + +Almost all the nations on the globe had made their contributions to the +department of vehicle transportation. This rare collection embraced the +palanquin of Africa--the mandarin chair of China--the bullock cart of +Ceylon--the sedan chair of Colombia (South America)--the Sicilian cart of +Palermo--the heavy lumbering cart of India--the queer traveling kroba of +Turkey--the volante of Spain--the tarantass of Russia--the hackney coach +of France--and the dog-cart of England. + +Among the relics of special interest to Americans because of their +association with historical personages, we beheld the well preserved +carriages of Daniel Webster and James Knox Polk. + +A conspicuous feature in the central court was a model of the largest +steam hammer in the world, utilized in the manufacture of armor plate for +vessels. + +On entering the PALACE OF HORTICULTURE north of the Transportation +Building, our organs of sight and olfactory nerves were equally affected +by the dazzling and odoriferous display of exuberant flowers and fruitage. +Had it been admissible, we would have been glad to put our organs of +tasting in active operation, likewise. For, we longed to try the relish of +some of the exquisite pomological exhibits, whose multiformity was too +immense to be portrayed in a pen-picture. Fruits of every form and +description, sent from all zones, climes, and countries were represented +here. Many of the exhibits were maintained at a high standard by being +constantly replenished with fresh fruits at great expense, particularly +the Californian citrus pyramid, comprising 31,150 oranges. + +The richly decorated court planted with ornamental shrubs and flowers, led +to the center pavilion which was roofed by a huge crystal dome. This +translucent cover transmitted the light and sunshine necessary for the +floricultural display beneath. Stately palms, tall tree ferns in great +variety, and gorgeous specimens from the flora of almost every section, +formed an immense pyramid of shrubbery. The luxuriously growing vines +entwined their tendrils around the iron-work of the building, adding +greatly to the beauty of the panorama. This superb spectacle recalled to +memory Horace Smith's "Hymn to the Flowers." In one of its fifteen +stanzas, the poet exclaims: + + "Not useless are ye, flowers, though made for pleasure, + Blooming over field and wave, by day and night: + From every source your sanction bids me treasure + Harmless Delight." + +We descended a cavern, extending underneath this magnificent flower +exhibit. Our scrutinizing eyes met with quite novel features. We observed +that the grotto was lined with glistening crystals from the mammoth cave +of South Dakota. Emerging again to broad daylight, we bent our steps +southward to that portion of the building, where the silver model of the +Horticultural Hall and the miniature Capitol of the Country compelled the +admiration of the beholder. + +The south pavilion encompassed the displays of viticulture. +Representations of actual scenes in the vicinity of California vine-yards-- +wine cellars--cool grottos--and a highly ornamental fountain throwing +sprays of wine, constituted the most attractive domestic scenes. + +A picturesque panorama of the vine-clad banks of the Rhine with its +romantically situated castles--reminiscences of feudal times--formed a +portion of the German wine cellar exhibit; also comprising an excellent +display of _Rhein- und Moselweine_. + +Of the foreign wine-growing countries, the most attractive contributions +were made by Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, Germany, Chili, New South +Wales, and Canada. + +We abandoned the building in order to view the floricultural out-of-door +exhibits, which covered the large spaces on the lawns adjoining it and the +Wooded Island. + +Glancing at the beautiful orchids, roses, carnations, sweet peas, +dianthus, asters, phlox, gladiolus, zinnias, and many other fragrant +flowers, we experienced infinitely more subtle modulations of delight than +can be easily described. The features of the horticultural displays were +so striking that their memory is immortalized:-- + + "For this picture in my brain + Only fades to come again." + +In fact, we had witnessed multifarious sublime spectacles during that +day's sojourn in the White City. + +Returning to the pier where the "Marguerite" lay moored, we were greatly +amazed as we caught sight of Lake Michigan--to find its waters lashed into +fury by a northeast gale, of which we had felt nothing while in the +pleasantly tempered Horticultural Building. + +Since it was impossible to stay where we were, on account of the exposed +situation, there was no help for it--but to put out for our usual +anchorage, inside the breakwater at Chicago. For my own part, I decided to +remain on deck. Perhaps, had I realized more fully what we had to +encounter, I should have sought my stateroom, with the rest. But I can +truly say: for three-quarters of an hour, my whole energies were employed +to keep my place. + +During our entire journey from Schenectady, N.Y., to the White City, we +had not experienced anything like it. Everything of a movable character +had to be secured; and it was an intense relief to all, when after an +extraordinary upheaval--the last effort of the uncontrolled waves upon our +stanch craft--she passed into the peaceful waters behind the breakwater; +completely sheltered from the raging elements, which broke with ceaseless +roar upon the concrete mass. + +The following morning as the rest of the party decided to remain in +Chicago for the purpose of viewing the renowned play "America" in the +Auditorium, I visited Jackson Park alone, spending many hours in the +Liberal Arts Building, which inclosed (besides multitudinous magnificent +displays illustrating the department of Liberal Arts) the object of my +special interest, viz. the educational exhibits. They comprised not only +contributions from every State in the Union but also from Germany, Great +Britain, France, Mexico, Canada, Russia, New South Wales, Spain, Belgium, +and Japan. + +The general character of them was represented by models and appliances for +teaching, text-books, diagrams, examples, specimens of the school work on +the various scientific subjects, and illustrations of the methods employed +in instruction by the teachers of the different States and Nations. + +By means of the ingenious arrangement of these displays, manifesting the +great achievements made in the development of pedagogy, I augmented my +professional learning during the hours of that day to such an extent as +would otherwise require months of careful study. The means of obtaining +these results of so great interest and profit to me as a teacher, were +much facilitated by my knowledge of several of the languages spoken by the +nations represented there. For, I readily understood the reports, +statistics, and text-books sent from the educational institutions of the +leading countries. Furthermore, the commissioners of the respective +sections, whom I addressed in their native tongue, complaisantly gave me +all the additional information I desired. + +As I inspected, among the manifold exhibits contributed by the State of +New York, the specimen work from the best pupils of the Art Students' +League, some sketches from life and drawings from the antique attracted my +special attention. They bore the signature of a young gentleman from +Schenectady--Walter M. Clute--a name which, I am certain, will be widely +known in future years as that of a prominent artist of this country. + +We spent the following day--Sunday--in Chicago which is perhaps the most +remarkable city in the world for its rapid growth. Its history dates back +to the year 1803, when Fort Dearborn was erected. Abandoned at the +beginning of the war with Great Britain in 1812, it was destroyed by the +Indians; but rebuilt in 1816. The town was organized in 1833, and the +first charter of a city passed by the Legislature, March 4, 1837. A number +of outlying suburbs of Chicago were annexed by popular vote so that the +present area of the city covers 181 square miles; its population being +about 1,400,000. When we consider the fact that in 1871 a great fire, +sweeping over the business center of Chicago, laid more than 2,000 acres +in ruins, and then reflect on the city of to-day, rebuilt in a style of +great solidity and magnificence, with its innumerable handsome buildings +of stupendous proportions--its six hundred beautiful churches--and its +vast number of educational institutions, we cannot but admire the spirit +of enterprise which evolved such wondrous prosperity in little more than +two decades. + +The destructive fire constituted the largest conflagration of modern +times. Commencing by the overturning of a lamp in a district built up +almost exclusively of wood, about nine o'clock in the evening of October +8, 1871, it continued through that night and the greater part of the next +day. Finally, it was checked by the explosion of gunpowder, whereupon it +exhausted itself by burning all there was to ignite within the confined +space. Although 18,000 houses had been reduced to ashes, ten years +thereafter all traces of the calamity had disappeared. + +It would be impossible to give a description of all the fine buildings +which have made Chicago famous. The principal hotel--probably the largest +in the world--is the "Auditorium," having its dining halls on the tenth +floor. All the conveniences that modern ingenuity has excogitated--in +accordance with the requirements of the present era--have been introduced +into this huge structure. It includes a theater having a seating capacity +for 6,000 spectators. + +The park system of Chicago is one of the most extensive in the world. +Jackson and Washington Parks belong to the south division, whereas the +western section inside the city limits comprises three; known as Humboldt, +Garfield, and Douglas Parks. Their ornamentation is varied by superb +flower-beds, fountains, statues, and monuments. Lincoln Park--including a +zoological garden, and being romantically situated upon the lake shore in +the northern portion of the city--constitutes a delightful place of +amusement for pleasure-seekers. The parks are all connected by +boulevards--some of them 200 feet wide--encircling the city, and affording +a continuous drive of thirty-five miles. + +The trade of Chicago is enormous. Its chief items are grain, live-stock, +meat products, and lumber. It principally manufactures iron and steel, +wood, brick, leather, chemicals, boots and shoes, cigars and tobacco. + +The next day after our return to the Chicago Harbor in the evening, Mrs. +Dr. McDonald of Chicago accompanied by her brother, Mr. Bernard, paid us a +visit on board the "Marguerite." Miss Campbell made the acquaintance of +this amiable lady during her last trip to Europe; and they were +traveling-companions, spending many pleasant days journeying together +in the old world. + +The WOMAN'S BUILDING was the first structure to be inspected after our +next arrival on the Exposition Grounds, according to the programme for +that day. It represented a great museum filled with countless +contributions made by women. The superb displays of paintings, ceramics, +art work, manufactures, liberal arts, embroideries, fancy work, laces; +moreover, dentistry, surgery, authorship, pedagogy, etc., and works of +female artisans--evinced that womankind is able to compete with man, not +only in the arts and sciences and in the more delicate achievements of +handiwork, but in almost every department of human activity. Even the +exterior of this handsome building, erected in the style of the Italian +renaissance after the design of Miss Sophia G. Hayden of Boston--with its +exquisite sculptural decorations--executed by Miss Alice Rideout of St. +Francisco--bore testimony to the fact, that women are entitled to enter +into competition with their male colleagues. + +Here, we beheld exhibits forwarded to this unique structure by women of +every clime and section of the globe. Even ladies of European monarchal +families were represented--the Queen of England and her daughters by works +of art--the Empresses of Germany, Russia, and Austria as well as the Queen +of Italy by costly laces--often the work of their own hands--and +invaluable jewels--with romantic histories. + +The decorative needle-work exhibit constituted a very selected and +complete collection; there being offered to view pieces of embroidery to +the value of $8,000. + +All that was to be seen in this edifice proved the opinion that women are +justified in demanding a position equal to men. + +Nevertheless, many refuse to acknowledge this claim of equalization by +pronouncing woman inferior to man concerning intellectual abilities. Daily +experience and the records of the past, however, demonstrate sufficiently +that many modern industrial pursuits have successfully been carried on by +female activity. Not only the occupations, which require manual dexterity +and good taste, also the higher branches of various sciences and arts have +been excellently mastered by educated ladies, performing professional +duties, whose execution demands a vast amount of intelligence and +learning. Thus the official U.S. census of 1890 contained the enumeration +of 2,438 doctresses; 110 female lawyers; 2,136 architectresses; and +155,000 lady teachers in public schools. Among the students, attending the +diverse colleges in the Republic, more than 18,000 are young ladies. Even +as inventors, women have distinguished themselves, as we may judge from +the fact that during the last three decades, about 2,500 patents have been +granted to female claimants, and scientific papers published--in 1884--a +list of contrivances deriving their existence from the inventiveness of +females. + +Of the uncountable evidences of woman's inventive genius, the enumeration +of the following devices and improvements may suffice: a chain elevator; +an appliance for lessening the noise of elevated cars; a lubricating felt +for diminishing friction (very useful for railroad cars); a portable +water-reservoir for extinguishing small fires; an apparatus for weighing +wool (one of the most sensitive machines ever invented, and of +incalculable advantage for the wool industry); a rotary loom (performing +thrice the work of an ordinary one); furthermore, manifold improvements to +the sewing-machine, such as a device for threading the needle while the +machine is in full operation; an appliance for sewing leather--contrived +by a woman in New York who runs a saddlery business there--; and many +others. To the sensational inventions, originated in female brains, +belong--the sea-telescope devised by Mrs. Mather, an instrument for the +purpose of examining the keel of a ship without requiring her being put +into the dry-dock--and a complicated machine for manufacturing paper bags, +a very intricate affair which many eminent mechanicians have made but +unsuccessful efforts to contrive. Since then, Miss Maggie Knight, the +inventress of the machine above mentioned, has found out another; namely +for folding paper-bags. The latter performs the work of thirty men, and +has been put up under that lady's personal supervision in Amherst, Mass. + +The wonderful achievements made by women in America, have not been +attained by females of any other country on the globe. This circumstance +is mainly due to the fact that the public school as well as the college +system in the United States--contrary to that of other nations--makes a +finished education accessible to both men and women. + +According to a report given by President White of the University of +Michigan--an institution that admits students of both sexes--out of 1,300 +attendants of the Greek class, the best scholar was a young lady. In +mathematics and other scientific studies, girls had the highest standing. +Furthermore, the profession of teaching in this country is principally in +the hands of women; which proves that the possibility of cultivating the +female mind to a high stage of perfection is absolutely unquestionable. + +Moreover, philosophers of modern times have demonstrated that it is wrong +to assign to woman a position inferior to man by basing it on the +theory--that her brains have smaller dimensions. For, it is not the +quantity of the _viscus_ alone that settles this scientific question; but +the weight of the brains in direct proportion to that of the person's +body. + +Recent scientific researches, accomplished by the noted Parisian +physiologist Broca, yielded the result that the ratio of woman's brains +compared with man's, contains even a surplus of one to four per cent. + +Now, that science acknowledges that the female intellect is educable to +the same degree as that of man; would it not appear to be a perversion of +judgment to undervalue ingenuity, because it accidentally had its seat in +female brains? Would it not be unjust to leave talents undeveloped and +without cultivation, simply because a woman possesses them? + +The active part woman took in the promotion of the Columbian Exposition is +additional proof of her ability; and on this occasion she comes to the +front rank more than ever before in her history. + +Repairing to the northern portion of the park, we entered the "ART PALACE" +through the southern of its four main entrances. We found ourselves in a +gallery where the magnificent sculpture exhibit captivated our eyes. + +In the court running east and west, we beheld a fine display of +architecture showing models of many famous edifices in the world, and +their exquisite portals and architectural ornaments. + +The American section located in the northeastern part of the building, +comprised a collection _par excellence_ of elegant paintings, masterpieces +from the best artists of this country. Very interesting was the +retrospective art exhibit in this department; illustrating the various +stages in the development of American art, from its incipiency to the +present perfection. + +The remaining space in the eastern pavilion was taken up by the French +_division_, which--we acknowledged unanimously--contained the most +laudable contribution made by a foreign nation. + +Great Britain's select display, representing some of its great artists, +constituted the most extensive foreign section next to France. + +German art was represented by 580 fine paintings, including all the German +schools that have gained celebrity; as the Bavarian in Munich--the Saxon +in Dresden--and many others.--Holland, Belgium, Russia, Spain, Austria, +Italy, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, and Canada had their share in the splendid +effect, likewise. + +The Japanese showing, elucidating the style of art, peculiar to that +skillful nation, was very attractive and novel. + +If we trace back the records of the previous international expositions, we +cannot find any report giving account of a similar collection representing +modern works of art. In consequence of political causes, France had seldom +made contributions to any but her own _expositions_. But the United +States, not fostering hostility with any nation, was universally assisted +in her gigantic enterprise. In fact, it would require volumes to describe +in detail this elaborate display, whose prominent part--the home +exhibits--verified Irving's words: "In America literature and the elegant +arts must grow up side by side with the coarser plants of daily +necessity." + +The Art Palace environed groups and figures in marble and bronze, and +other sculptural master-pieces--paintings in oil and water colors, on +ivory, enamel, metal, and porcelain--fresco paintings on walls-- +engravings--etchings--pastel and many studies in chalk and charcoal; in +short, every description of modern progress in this direction, even to +excellent effects produced on wood with hot irons. + +Art is but the human effort to seize some of Nature's notable transitory +features to perpetuate them. The unusual scenes of grandeur and of beauty +our divine mother reveals to us in some of her moods, we adore, while they +are inspirations to the poet and painter; and in this untiring course of +art, many geniuses have become apotheosized. + +To take a lovely landscape at sunset: when from the side of some +enchanting stream, you look toward the mountains in the west, and see the +crimson and light blue curtains of the evening slowly shaken out; their +fringes of burnished gold glowing with indescribable magnificence--who can +portray it and do it justice? This evening robing of those variegated +crests! That mingling of color, until it fades into deep violet dyes! They +in their turn passing away to give place to the jewels of the night, whose +unchanging song of eternal praise goes on---- + +Before such scenes, a Corot, or an Aubert dips the pencil in the glowing +sky, and transfers its hues to the canvas; so that, in after time, our +souls are gladdened by some retrospect, which makes life dearer to us +amidst its cares. + +We must not consider art as the rival of nature, but her child that pays +to her the most graceful tribute of homage by making her impressions +permanent. + +Highly interesting exhibits were presented to view in the _Anthropological +Building_, including instructive ethnological and archaeological +collections. In connection with the latter section were the relics shown +in the Convent de la Rabida--where Columbus, almost discouraged, found a +cordial reception and kind assistance from Father de la Marchena--; the +Yucatan Ruins--an illustration of ancient architecture and sculpture--; +the homes of the Cliff Dwellers--vestiges of probably the earliest +civilization of the American continent--; the Spanish Caravels--built in +Spain for the Exposition--; the Viking Ship--reproduced from a Norwegian +vessel a thousand years old--; and the Esquimaux Village--exhibiting +natives (their habitations, and sports), reindeers, and Esquimaux dogs. + +The handsome structures erected by the Foreign Nations as well as those +built by the States and Territories of the Union, were designed +particularly for the entertainment of those visitors who constituted their +respective representatives. Nevertheless, many of them were beautifully +and expensively fitted up; inclosing magnificent native products. Their +unique features were so manifold that it would be an impossibility to +describe them deservingly without dedicating a volume to that purpose. + +The nineteen foreign buildings, each of which illustrated some classic +style of architecture--peculiar to the nation represented--constituted an +additional great feature of the Columbian Exposition. They gave the +visitor an adequate conception of the construction and luxurious equipment +of edifices abroad. In fact, on entering the buildings of Germany, France, +Great Britain, Spain, New South Wales, Ceylon, Canada, Sweden, Costa Rica, +Hayti, Guatemala, Japan, etc., we fancied ourselves to be suddenly +conveyed to these foreign countries. + +With a few exceptions, all the forty-four States and five Territories of +the Union, had their share in the beautiful effect produced by their +structures, erected--at a considerable expense--of such material as +elucidated the prominent natural resources of the respective states. Many +of the edifices were modeled after buildings noted for some historical +event. Thus, the New York Building was a reproduction, slightly modified, +of the old Van Rensselaer residence, whose quaint architecture recalled a +most interesting period in our national history, when the great metropolis +of to-day was but a small sea-port town. + +This World's Fair, which has recently been brought to a close, evinced to +the millions of visitors, who were drawn by its multitudinous attractions +to the White City from every section of this country, and from almost +every quarter of the globe that it eclipsed in grandeur and excellence all +of the previous universal expositions; for everything that good taste and +modern genius could suggest and accomplish, was brought into play. + +The financial account given by the auditor of the Columbian Fair stands +thus: The entire cost of the Exposition to its close and the winding up of +its affairs amounted to $26,288,685.67. Its total receipts were +$28,151,168.75; thus exceeding the expenditure by $1,862,483.08. + +The wonderful and rapid development of the international expositions may +be recognized by the following statistics, compiled from the annals of +their short history: + + +Ordinal Year. Location. Area Duration Exhibitors Visitors + Number in Acres in Days + + 1 1851 London 20.06 144 17,000 6,039,000 + 2 1855 Paris 24.71 200 21,779 5,162,000 + 3 1862 London 22.24 171 28,653 6,211,000 + 4 1867 Paris 29.44 217 50,236 10,200,000 + 5 1873 Vienna 39.54 186 42,000 7,254,000 + 6 1876 Philadelphia 59.31 184 60,000 9,900,000 + 7 1878 Paris 59.31 194 32,000 13,000,000 + 8 1889 Paris 74.14 183 60,000 32,000,000 + 9 1893 Chicago..Exp 533.00 183 50,000 27,412,728 + ...MP 80.00 + + +Unable to obtain the exact figures denoting the number of exhibitors of +the Columbian Exposition from any authentical source of information, I +introduced into the above table the number of 50,000, mentioned in a +newspaper, and therefore not absolutely reliable. + + + + CONCLUSION. + +The universal verdict is--that the World's Columbian Exposition at Chicago +was a great success; and although disappearing like a dream, it will be a +lasting and useful one. The mention of a few features, at once creditable +to the age, and pointing hopefully to the future, may suffice to prove +this opinion: Notwithstanding the great rivalry between nations, there has +not been a particle of jealousy, or unkind criticism exhibited at these +great congresses. Intelligent and representative people have been brought +together from all parts of the earth, who--on returning to their +homes--carried with them the germs of better feeling, which will have a +tendency to break up the barriers of bitter prejudices and bigotry +hitherto existing. The less favored and darker parts of our earth come +more into the light. Our children have had lessons, which no history or +geography could convey; our women have taken a stand from which they never +will recede. In the presence of the wonders shown us, and all the grand +efforts of human genius, we become less selfish and more humane; a greater +respect for each other is evoked. Yes, it has been a good thing! + +All honor to the nations of the earth, who so generously have come forward +with their best treasures, not sparing trouble or expense in this +promoting, grand feature of human progress! The millions spent here, have +been well employed; and we can safely say that--but for the unfortunate +fact that during the time of the exposition, we were passing through a +season of unusual financial depression--the attendance at the World's Fair +would have been much larger. Nevertheless, it was a great success. All +honor to the Hon. George R. Davis, the General Director! All honor to his +co-laborers! All honor to every one who did anything to push it along! +For, it is gone--giving the pulse of the world the holiest thrill it ever +had since its creation. + + + +FINIS. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of By Water to the Columbian Exposition +by Johanna S. 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