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+Project Gutenberg's Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, by Francis W. Halsey
+
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+
+Title: Seeing Europe with Famous Authors
+       Vol. II Great Britain And Ireland, Part Two
+
+Author: Francis W. Halsey
+
+Release Date: December, 2005 [EBook #9503]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on October 6, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SEEING EUROPE WITH FAMOUS AUTHORS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Charles Aldarondo, Tiffany Vergon, Emily Ratliff
+and PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+SEEING EUROPE WITH FAMOUS AUTHORS
+
+
+Selected And Edited With Introduction, Etc.
+
+By Francis W. Halsey
+
+_Editor of "Great Epochs in American History" Associate Editor of "The
+World's Famous Orations" and of "The Best of the World's
+Classics," etc._
+
+
+In Ten Volumes
+
+Illustrated
+
+
+Vol. II Great Britain And Ireland
+
+Part Two
+
+[_Printed in the United States of America_]
+
+
+
+II
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME II
+
+GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND--PART TWO
+
+
+
+IV-ENGLISH LITERARY SHRINES--
+
+(_Continued_)
+
+
+STOKE POGIS--By Charles T. Congdon
+
+HAWORTH--By Theodore F. Wolfe
+
+GAD'S HILL--By Theodore F. Wolfe
+
+RYDAL MOUNT--By William Howitt
+
+TWICKENHAM--By William Howitt
+
+
+
+V-OTHER ENGLISH SCENES
+
+
+STONEHENGE--By Ralph Waldo Emerson
+
+MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND--By Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+THE HOME OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS--By James M. Hoppin
+
+OXFORD--By Goldwin Smith
+
+CAMBRIDGE--By James M. Hoppin
+
+CHESTER--By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE--By Frederick A. Talbot
+
+THE CAPITAL OF THE BRITISH, SAXON AND NORMAN KINGS--By William Howitt
+
+
+
+VI--SCOTLAND
+
+
+EDINBURGH--By Robert Louis Stevenson
+
+HOLYROOD--By David Masson
+
+LINLITHGOW--By Sir Walter Scott
+
+STIRLING--By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+ABBOTSFORD--By William Howitt
+
+DRYBURGH ABBEY--By William Howitt
+
+MELROSE ABBEY--By William Howitt
+
+CARLYLE'S BIBTHPLACE AND EARLY HOMES--By John Burroughs
+
+BURNS'S LAND--By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+HIGHLAND MARY'S HOME AND GRAVE--By Theodore F. Wolfe
+
+THROUGH THE CALEDONIA CANAL TO INVERNESS--By H. A. Taine
+
+THE SCOTCH HIGHLANDS--By H. A. Taine
+
+BEN LOMOND AND THE HIGHLAND LAKES--By Bayard Taylor
+
+TO THE HEBRIDES--By James Boswell
+
+STAFFA AND IONA--By William Howitt
+
+
+
+VII--IRELAND
+
+
+A SUMMER DAY IN DUBLIN--By William Makepeace Thackeray
+
+DUBLIN CASTLE--By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDHAL--By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+LIMERICK--By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+FROM BELFAST TO DUBLIN--By William Cullen Bryant
+
+THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY--By Bayard Taylor
+
+CORK--by William Makepeace Thackeray
+
+BLARNEY CASTLE--By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+MUCROSS ABBEY--By Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall
+
+FROM GLENGARIFF TO KILLARNEY--By William Makepeace Thackeray
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+VOLUME II
+
+
+FRONTISPIECE
+
+PRINCESS STREET AND SCOTT'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH
+
+STRATFORD-ON-AVON
+
+INTERIOR OF TRINITY CHURCH, STRATFORD
+
+ANNE HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE, NEAR STRATFORD
+
+ROOM IN STRATFORD IN WHICH SHAKESPEARE WAS BORN
+
+NEWSTEAD ABBEY, BYRON'S ANCESTRAL HOME
+
+STOKE POGIS, THE SCENE OF GRAY'S "ELEGY"
+
+OXFORD
+
+EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE
+
+ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, CANTERBURY
+
+EDINBURGH CASTLE AND NATIONAL GALLERY
+
+OLD GREYFRIAR'S CHURCH, EDINBURGH
+
+HOLYROOD PALACE, EDINBURGH
+
+STIRLING CASTLE
+
+RUINS OF HOLYROOD ABBEY, EDINBURGH
+
+MELROSE ABBEY
+
+GLASTONBURY ABBEY
+
+CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE, SCOTLAND
+
+DUMBARTON ROCK AND CASTLE
+
+LIMERICK CASTLE
+
+ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL, DUBLIN
+
+THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
+
+BLARNEY CASTLE
+
+MUCROSS ABBEY
+
+THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY
+
+SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN
+
+THE GAP OF DUNLOE
+
+
+
+
+IV
+
+ENGLISH LITERARY SHRINES
+
+(_Continued_)
+
+
+
+STOKE POGIS [Footnote: From "Reminiscences of a Journalist." By special
+arrangement with, and by permission of, the publishers, Houghton,
+Mifflin Co. Copyright, 1884. Mr. Congdon was, for many years, under
+Horace Greeley, a leading editorial writer for the New York "Tribune."]
+
+BY CHARLES T. CONGDON
+
+It was a comfort as I came out of the Albert Memorial Chapel, and
+rejoined nature upon the Terrace, to mutter to myself those fine lines
+which not a hundred years ago everybody knew by heart: "The boast of
+heraldry, the pomp of power, And all that beauty, all that wealth ere
+gave, Await alike th' inevitable hour. The paths of glory lead but to
+the grave,"--a verse which I found it not bad to remember as in the
+Chapel Royal I gazed upon the helmets, and banners, and insignia of many
+a defunct Knight of the Garter. I wondered if posterity would care much
+for George the Fourth, or Third, or Second, or First, whose portraits I
+had just been gazing at; I was sure that a good many would remember the
+recluse scholar of Pembroke Hall, the Cambridge Professor of Modern
+History, who cared for nothing but ancient history; who projected twenty
+great poems, and finished only one or two; who spent his life in
+commenting upon Plato and studying botany, and in writing letters to his
+friend Mason; and who with a real touch of Pindar in his nature, was
+content to fiddle-faddle away his life. He died at last of a most
+unpoetical gout in the stomach, leaving behind him a cartload of
+memoranda, and fifty fragments of fine things; and yet I, a stranger
+from a far distant shore, was about to make a little pilgrimage to his
+tomb, and all for the sake of that "Elegy Written in a Country
+Churchyard," which has so held its own while a hundred bulkier things
+have been forgotten.
+
+The church itself is an interesting but not remarkable edifice, old,
+small, and solidly built in a style common enough in England. Nothing,
+however, could be more in keeping with the associations of the scene.
+The very humility of the edifice has a property of its own, for anything
+more magnificent would jar upon the feelings, as the monument in the
+Park does most decidedly. It was Gray's wish that he might be buried
+here, near the mother whom he loved so well; otherwise he could hardly
+have escaped the posthumous misfortune of a tomb in Westminster Abbey or
+St. Paul's. In such case the world would have missed one of the most
+charming of associations, and the great poem the most poetical of its
+features. For surely it was fit that he who sang so touchingly of the
+dead here sleeping, should find near them his last resting-place; that
+when the pleasant toil in libraries was over, the last folio closed by
+those industrious hands, the last manuscript collated, and the last
+flower picked for the herbarium, he who here so tenderly sang of the
+emptiness of earthly honors and the nothingness of worldly success should
+be buried humbly near those whom he best loved, and where all the moral
+of his teaching might be perpetually illustrated. I wondered, as I stood
+there, whether Horace Walpole ever thought it worth his while, for the
+sake of that early friendship which was so rudely broken, to come there,
+away from the haunts of fashion, or from his plaything villa at
+Strawberry Hill, to muse for a moment over the grave of one who rated
+pedigrees and peerages at their just value. Probably my Lord Orford was
+never guilty of such a piece of sentimentality. He was thinking too much
+of his pictures and coins and eternal bric-a-brac for that.
+
+A stone set in the outside of the church indicates the spot near which
+the poet is buried. I was very anxious to see the interior of the
+edifice, and, fortunately I found the sexton busy in the neighborhood.
+There was nothing, however, remarkable to be seen, after sixpence had
+opened the door, except perhaps the very largest pew which these eyes
+ever beheld. It belonged to the Penn family, descendants of drab-coated
+and sweet-voiced William Penn, whose seat is in the neighborhood. I do
+not know what that primitive Quaker would have said to such an enormous
+reservation of space in the house of God for the sole use and behoof of
+two or three aristocratic worshipers. Probably few of my readers have
+ever seen such a pew as that. It was not so much a pew as a room. It was
+literally walled off, and quite set apart from the plebeian portion of
+the sanctuary, was carpeted, and finished with comfortable arm-chairs,
+and in the middle of it was a stove. The occupants could look out and
+over at the altar, but the rustics could not look in and at them. The
+Squire might have smoked or read novels, or my lady might have worked
+worsted or petted her poodle through the service, without much scandal.
+The pew monopolized so much room that there was little left for the
+remainder of the "miserable offenders," but I suspect that there was
+quite enough for all who came to pray. For it was, as I have said,
+literally a country church; and those who sleep near it were peasants.
+
+It is difficult to comprehend the whole physiognomy of the poem, if I
+may use the expression, without seeing the spot which it commemorates. I
+take it for granted that the reader is familiar with it. There are
+"those rugged elms," and there is "that yew tree's shade." There are
+"the frail memorials," "with uncouth rhymes and shapeless sculpture
+decked;" there "the name, the years, spelt by the unlettered muse;" and
+the holy texts strewn round "that teach the rustic moralist to die."
+There is still "the ivy-mantled tower," tho the "moping owl" that
+evening did not "to the moon complain," partly because there was no moon
+to complain to, and possibly because there was no moping owl in the
+tower. But there was one little circumstance which I may be pardoned for
+mentioning. Gray, somehow, has the reputation of being an artificial
+poet, yet for one who wrote so little poetry he makes a good many
+allusions to childhood and children. As I passed through the Park on my
+way to the churchyard, I encountered a group of merry boys and girls
+playing about the base of the monument; and I recalled that verse which
+Gray wrote for the Elegy, and afterward discarded, under the impression
+that it made the parenthesis too long.
+
+  There scatter'd oft, the earliest of the year,
+    By hands unseen are showers of violets found;
+  The redbreast loves to build and warble there,
+    And little footsteps lightly print the ground.
+
+I have often wondered how Gray could bear to give up these sweet, tender
+and most natural lines. I have sometimes surmised that he thought them a
+little too much like Ambrose Philips's verses about children--Namby
+Pamby Philips, as the Pope set nicknamed that unfortunate writer.
+
+I lingered about the churchyard until that long twilight, of which we
+know nothing in America, began to grow dimmer and dimmer. If it was
+still before, it seemed all the stiller now. I was glad that I had
+waited so long, because by doing so I understood all the better how true
+the Elegy is to nature. The neighborhood, with its agreeable variety of
+meadow and wood, has all the hundred charms of the gentle and winning
+English scenery. The hush, hardly broken even by the songs of the birds,
+brought forcibly to my mind that beautiful line of the Elegy: "And all
+the air a solemn stillness holds;" while that other line: "Now fades the
+glimmering landscape on the sight," is exactly true. The landscape did
+glimmer, and as I watched the sun go down, I pleased myself with the
+fancy that I was sitting just where the poet sat, as he revolved those
+lines which the world has got by heart. Just then came the cry of the
+cattle, and I knew why Gray wrote: "The lowing herd winds slowly o'er
+the lea," nor did I fail to encounter a plowman homeward plodding his
+weary way.
+
+As I strolled listlessly back to the station, there was such a serenity
+on the earth about me, and in the sky above me, that I could easily give
+myself to gentle memories and poetic dreams. I recalled the springtime
+of life, when I learned this famous Elegy by heart as a pleasant task,
+and, as yet unsophisticated by critical notions, accepted it as perfect.
+I thought of innumerable things which I had read about it; of the long
+and patient revision which its author gave it, year after year, keeping
+it in his desk, and then sending it, a mere pamphlet, with no flourish
+of trumpets, into the world. Many an ancient figure came to lend
+animation to the scene. Horace Walpole in his lace coat and spruce wig
+went mincing by; the mother of Gray, with her sister, measured lace for
+the customers who came to her little shop in London; the wags of
+Pembroke College, graceless varlets, raise an alarm of fire that they
+may see the frightened poet drop from the window, half dead with alarm;
+old Foulis, the Glasgow printer, volunteers to send from his press such,
+a luxurious edition of Gray's poems as the London printers can not
+match; Dr. Johnson, holding the page to his eyes, growls over this
+stanza, and half-grudgingly praises that. I had spent perhaps the
+pleasantest day which the fates vouchsafed me during my sojourn in
+England; and here I was back again in Slough Station, ready to return to
+the noisy haunts of men. The train came rattling up, and the day with
+Gray was over.
+
+
+
+HAWORTH [Footnote: From "A Literary Pilgrimage." By arrangement with,
+and by permission of, the publishers, J. B. Lippincott Co.
+Copyright, 1895.]
+
+BY THEODORE F. WOLFE
+
+Other Brontė shrines have engaged us,--Guiseley, where Patrick Brontė
+was married and Neilson worked as a mill-girl; the lowly Thornton home,
+where Charlotte was born; the cottage where she visited Harriet
+Martineau; the school where she found Caroline Helstone and Rose and
+Jessy Yorke; the Fieldhead, Lowood, and Thornfield of her tales; the
+Villette where she knew her hero; but it is the bleak Haworth hilltop
+where the Brontės wrote the wonderful books and lived the pathetic lives
+that most attracts and longest holds our steps. Our way is along
+Airedale, now a highway of toil and trade, desolated by the need of
+hungry poverty and greed of hungrier wealth; meads are replaced by
+blocks of grimy huts, groves are supplanted by factory chimneys that
+assoil earth and heaven, the one "shining" stream is filthy with the
+refuse of many mills.
+
+At Keighley our walk begins, and altho we have no peas in our "Pilgrim
+shoon," the way is heavy with memories of the sad sisters Brontė who so
+often trod the dreary miles which bring us to Haworth. The village
+street, steep as a roof, has a pavement of rude stones, upon which the
+wooden shoes of the villagers clank with an unfamiliar sound. The dingy
+houses of gray stone, barren and ugly in architecture, are huddled along
+the incline and encroach upon the narrow street. The place and its
+situation are a proverb of ugliness in all the countryside; one dweller
+in Airedale told us that late in the evening of the last day of creation
+it was found that a little rubbish was left, and out of that Haworth was
+made. But, grim and rough as it is, the genius of a little woman has
+made the place illustrious and draws to it visitors from every quarter
+of the world. We are come in the "glory season" of the moors, and as we
+climb through the village we behold above and beyond it vast undulating
+sweeps of amethyst-tinted hills rising circle beyond circle,--all now
+one great expanse of purple bloom stirred by zephyrs which waft to us
+the perfume of the heather.
+
+At the hilltop we come to the Black Bull Inn, where one Brontė drowned
+his genius in drink, and from our apartment here we look upon all the
+shrines we seek. The inn stands at the churchyard gates, and is one of
+the landmarks of the place. Long ago preacher Grimshaw flogged the
+loungers from its taproom into chapel; here Wesley and Whitefield lodged
+when holding meetings on the hilltop; here Brontė's predecessor took
+refuge from his riotous parishioners, finally escaping through the low
+easement at the back,--out of which poor Branwell Brontė used to vault
+when his sisters asked for him at the door. This inn is a quaint
+structure, low-eaved and cosy; its furniture is dark with age. We sleep
+in a bed once occupied by Henry J. Raymond, [Footnote: In the editorial
+sense, the founder of the New York "Times." Mr. Raymond died in 1869,
+eighteen years after the paper was started.] and so lofty that steps are
+provided to ascend its heights. Our meals are served in the
+old-fashioned parlor to which Branwell came. In a nook between the
+fireplace and the before-mentioned easement stood the tall arm-chair,
+with square seat and quaintly carved back, which was reserved for him.
+
+The landlady denied that he was summoned to entertain travelers here;
+"he never needed to be sent for, he came fast enough of himself." His
+wit and conviviality were usually the life of the circle, but at times
+he was mute and abstracted and for hours together "would just sit and
+sit in his corner there." She described him as a "little, red-haired,
+light-complexioned chap, cleverer than all his sisters put together.
+What they put in their books they got from him," quoth she, reminding us
+of the statement in Grundy's Reminiscences that Branwell declared he
+invented the plot and wrote the major part of "Wuthering Heights."
+Certain it is he possest transcending genius and that in this room that
+genius was slain. Here he received the message of renunciation from his
+depraved mistress which finally wrecked his life; the landlady, entering
+after the messenger had gone, found him in a fit on the floor. Emily
+Brontė's rescue of her dog, an incident recorded in "Shirley," occurred
+at the inn door.
+
+The graveyard is so thickly sown with blackened tombstones that there is
+scant space for blade or foliage to relieve its dreariness, and the
+villagers, for whom the yard is a thoroughfare, step from tomb to tomb;
+in the time of the Brontės the village women dried their linen on these
+graves. Close to the wall which divides the churchyard from the vicarage
+is a plain stone set by Charlotte Brontė to mark the grave of Tabby, the
+faithful servant who served the Brontės from their childhood till all
+but Charlotte were dead. The very ancient church-tower still "rises dark
+from the stony enclosure of its yard;" the church itself has been
+remodeled and much of its romantic interest destroyed. No interments
+have been made in the vaults beneath the aisles since Mr. Brontė was
+laid there. The site of the Brontė pew is by the chancel; here Emily sat
+in the farther corner, Anne next and Charlotte by the door, within a
+foot of the spot where her ashes now lie.
+
+A former sacristan remembered to have seen Thackeray and Miss Martineau
+sitting with Charlotte in the pew. And here, almost directly above her
+sepulcher, she stood one summer morning and gave herself in marriage to
+the man who served for her as "faithfully and long as did Jacob for
+Rachel." The Brontė tablet in the wall bears a uniquely pathetic record,
+its twelve lines registering eight deaths, of which Mr. Brontė's at the
+age of eighty-five, is the last. On a side aisle is a beautiful stained
+window inscribed "To the Glory of God, in Memory of Charlotte Brontė, by
+an American citizen." The list shows that most of the visitors come from
+America, and it was left for a dweller in that far land to set up here
+almost the only voluntary memento of England's great novelist. A worn
+page of the register displays the tremulous autograph of Charlotte as
+she signs her maiden name for the last time, and the signatures of the
+witnesses to her marriage,--Miss Wooler, of "Roe Head," Ellen Nussy, who
+is the E of Charlotte's letters and the Caroline of "Shirley."
+
+The vicarage and its garden are out of a corner of the churchyard and
+separated from it by a low wall. A lane lies along one side of the
+churchyard and leads from the street to the vicarage gates. The garden,
+which was Emily's care, where she tended stunted shrubs and borders of
+unresponsive flowers and where Charlotte planted the currant-bushes, is
+beautiful with foliage and flowers, and its boundary wall is overtopped
+by a screen of trees which shuts out the depressing prospect of the
+graves from the vicarage windows and makes the place seem less "a
+churchyard home" than when the Brontės inhabited it. The dwelling is of
+gray stone, two stories high, of plain and somber aspect. A wing is
+added, the little window-panes are replaced by larger squares, the stone
+floors are removed or concealed, curtains--forbidden by Mr. Brontė's
+dread of fire--shade the window, and the once bare interior is furbished
+and furnished in modern style; but the arrangement of the apartments is
+unchanged.
+
+Most interesting of these is the Brontė parlor, at the left of the
+entrance; here the three curates of "Shirley" used to take tea with Mr.
+Brontė and were upbraided by Charlotte for their intolerance; here the
+sisters discuss their plots and read each other's MSS.; here they
+transmuted the sorrows of their lives into the stories which make the
+name of Brontė immortal; here Emily, "her imagination occupied with
+Wuthering Heights," watched in the darkness to admit Branwell coming
+late and drunken from the Black Bull; here Charlotte, the survivor of
+all, paced the night-watches in solitary anguish, haunted by the
+vanished faces, the voices forever stilled, the echoing footsteps that
+came no more. Here, too, she lay in her coffin. The room behind the
+parlor was fitted by Charlotte for Nichols's study. On the right was
+Brontė's study, and behind it the kitchen, where the sisters read with
+their books propt on the table before them while they worked, and where
+Emily (prototype of "Shirley"), bitten by a dog at the gate of the lane,
+took one of Tabby's glowing irons from the fire and cauterized the
+wound, telling no one till danger was past.
+
+Above the parlor is the chamber in which Charlotte and Emily died, the
+scene of Nichols's loving ministrations to his suffering wife. Above
+Brontė's study was his chamber; the adjoining children's study was later
+Branwell's apartment and the theater of the most terrible tragedies of
+the stricken family; here that ill-fated youth writhed in the horrors of
+mania-a-potu; here Emily rescued him--stricken with drunken stupor--from
+his burning couch, as "Jane Eyre" saved Rochester; here he breathed out
+his blighted life erect upon his feet, his pockets filled with
+love-letters from the perfidious woman who brought his ruin. Even now
+the isolated site of the parsonage, its environment of graves and
+wild-moors, its exposure to the fierce winds of the long winters, make
+it unspeakably dreary; in the Brontės' time it must have been cheerless
+indeed. Its influence darkened the lives of the inmates and left its
+fateful impression upon the books here produced. Visitors are rarely
+admitted to the vicarage; among those against whom its doors have been
+closed is the gifted daughter of Charlotte's literary idol, to whom
+"Jane Eyre" was dedicated, Thackeray.
+
+By the vicarage lane were the cottage of Tabby's sister, the school the
+Brontės daily visited, and the sexton's dwelling where the curates
+lodged. Behind the vicarage a savage expanse of gorse and heather rises
+to the horizon and stretches many miles away; a path oft-trodden by the
+Brontės leads between low walls from their home to this open moor, their
+habitual resort in childhood and womanhood. The higher plateaus afford a
+wide prospect, but, despite the August bloom and fragrance and the
+delightful play of light and shadow along the sinuous sweeps, the aspect
+of the bleak, treeless, houseless waste of uplands is even now
+dispiriting; when frosts have destroyed its verdure, and wintry skies
+frown above, its gloom and desolation must be terrible beyond
+description. Remembering that the sisters found even these usually
+dismal moors a welcome relief from their tomb of a dwelling, we may
+appreciate the utter dreariness of their situation and the pathos of
+Charlotte's declaration, "I always dislike to leave Haworth, it takes so
+long to be content again after I return."
+
+
+
+GAD'S HILL [Footnote: From "A Literary Pilgrimage." By arrangement with,
+and by permission of, the publishers, J. B. Lippincott Co.
+Copyright, 1895.]
+
+BY THEODORE F. WOLFE
+
+"To go to Gad's Hill," said Dickens, in a note of invitation, "you leave
+Charing Cross at nine o'clock by North Kent Railway for Higham." Guided
+by these directions and equipped with a letter from Dickens's son, we
+find ourselves gliding eastward among the chimneys of London and, a
+little later, emerging into the fields of Kent,--Jingle's region of
+"apples, cherries, hops, and women." The Thames is on our left; we pass
+many river-towns,--Dartford where Wat Tyler lived, Gravesend where
+Pocahontas died,--but most of our way is through the open country, where
+we have glimpses of "fields," "parks," and leafy lanes, with here and
+there picturesque camps of gypsies or of peripatetic rascals "goin'
+a-hoppin.'" From wretched Higham a walk of half an hour among orchards
+and between hedges of wild-rose and honeysuckle brings us to the hill
+which Shakespeare and Dickens have made classic ground, and soon we see,
+above the tree tops, the glittering vane which surmounted the home of
+the world's greatest novelist.
+
+The name Gad's (Vagabond's) Hill is a survival of the time when the
+depredations of highwaymen upon "pilgrims going to Canterbury with rich
+offerings and traders riding to London with fat purses" gave to this
+spot the ill repute it had in Shakespeare's day; it was here he located
+Falstaff's great exploit. The tuft of evergreens which crowns the hill
+about Dickens' retreat is the remnant of thick woods once closely
+bordering the highway, in which the "men in buckram" lay concealed, and
+the robbery of the Franklin was committed in front of the spot where the
+Dickens house stands. By this road passed Chaucer, who had property near
+by, gathering from the pilgrims his "Canterbury Tales." In all time to
+come the great master of romance who came here to live and die will be
+worthily associated with Shakespeare and Chaucer in the renown of
+Gad's Hill.
+
+In becoming possessor of this place Dickens realized a dream of his
+boyhood and ambition of his life. In one of his travelers' sketches he
+introduces a "queer small boy" (himself) gazing at Gad's Hill House and
+predicting his future ownership, which the author finds annoying
+"because it happens to be my house and I believe what he said was true."
+When at last the place was for sale, Dickens did not wait to examine it;
+he never was inside the house until he went to direct its repair.
+Eighteen hundred pounds was the price; a thousand more were expended for
+enlargement of the grounds and alterations of the house, which, despite
+his declaration that he had "stuck bits upon it in all manner of ways,"
+did not greatly change it from what it was when it became the goal of
+his childish aspirations. At first it was his summer residence
+merely,--his wife came with him the first summer,--but three years later
+he sold Tavistock House, and Gad's Hill was thenceforth his home. From
+the bustle and din of the city he returned to the haunts of his boyhood
+to find restful quiet and time for leisurely work among these "blessed
+woods and fields" which had ever held his heart. For nine years after
+the death of Dickens Gad's Hill was occupied by his oldest son; its
+ownership has since twice or thrice changed.
+
+Its elevated site and commanding view render it one of the most
+conspicuous, as it is one of the most lovely, spots in Kent. The mansion
+is an unpretentious, old-fashioned, two-storied structure of fourteen
+rooms. Its brick walls are surmounted by Mansard roofs above which rises
+a bell-turret; a pillared portico, where Dickens sat with his family on
+summer evenings, shades the front entrance; wide bay-windows project
+upon either side; flowers and vines clamber upon the walls, and a
+delightfully home-like air pervades the place. It seems withal a modest
+seat for one who left half a million dollars at his death. At the right
+of the entrance-hall we see Dickens's library and study, a cosy room
+shown in the picture of "The Empty Chair;" here are shelves which held
+his books; the panels he decorated with counterfeit bookbacks; the nook
+where perched, the mounted remains of his raven, the "Grip" of "Barnaby
+Rudge." By this bay-window, whence he could look across the lawn to the
+cedars beyond the highway, stood his chair and the desk where he wrote
+many of the works by which the world will know him always. Behind the
+study was his billiard-room, and upon the opposite side of the hall the
+parlor, with the dining-room adjoining it at the back, both bedecked
+with the many mirrors which delighted the master.
+
+Opening out of these rooms is a conservatory, paid for out of "the
+golden shower from America" and completed but a few days before Dickens'
+death, holding yet the ferns he tended. The dining-room was the scene of
+much of that emphatic hospitality which it pleased the novelist to
+dispense, his exuberant spirits making him the leader in all the jollity
+and conviviality of the board. Here he compounded for bibulous guests
+his famous "cider-cup of Gad's Hill," and at the same table he was
+stricken with death; on a couch beneath yonder window, the one nearest
+the hall, he died on the anniversary of the railway accident which so
+frightfully imperiled his life. From this window we look out upon a lawn
+decked with shrubbery and see across undulating cornfields his beloved
+Cobham. From the parqueted hall, stairs lead to the modest
+chambers--that of Dickens being above the drawing-room. He lined the
+stairway with prints of Hogarth's works, and declared he never came down
+the stairs without pausing to wonder at the sagacity and skill which had
+produced these masterful pictures of human life.
+
+The house is invested with roses, and parterres of the red geraniums
+which the master loved are ranged upon every side. It was some fresh
+manifestation of his passion for these flowers that elicited from his
+daughter the averment, "Papa, I think when you are an angel your wings
+will be made of looking-glasses and your crown of scarlet geraniums."
+Beneath a rose-tree not far from the window where Dickens died, a bed
+blooming with blue lobelia holds the tiny grave of "Dick" and the tender
+memorial of the novelist to that "Best of Birds." The row of gleaming
+limes which shadow the porch was planted by Dickens's own hands. The
+pedestal of the sundial upon the lawn is a massive balustrade of the old
+stone bridge at nearby Rochester, which little David Copperfield crossed
+"footsore and weary" on his way to his aunt, and from which Pickwick
+contemplated the castle-ruin, the cathedral, the peaceful Medway. At the
+left of the mansion are the carriage-house and the school-room of
+Dickens' sons. In another portion of the grounds are his tennis-court
+and the bowling-green which he prepared, where he became a skilful and
+tireless player. The broad meadow beyond the lawn was a later purchase,
+and the many limes which beautify it were rooted by Dickens. Here
+numerous cricket-matches were played, and he would watch the players or
+keep the score "The whole day long."
+
+It was in this meadow that he rehearsed his readings, and his talking,
+laughing, weeping, and gesticulating here "all to himself" excited among
+his neighbors suspicion of his insanity. From the front lawn a tunnel
+constructed by Dickens passes beneath the highway to "The Wilderness," a
+thickly-wooded shrubbery, where magnificent cedars up-rear their
+venerable forms and many somber firs, survivors of the forest which erst
+covered the countryside, cluster upon the hill top. Here Dickens's
+favorite dog, the "Linda" of his letters, lies buried. Amid the leafy
+seclusion of this retreat, and upon the very spot where Falstaff was
+routed by Hal and Poins ("the eleven men in buckram"), Dickens erected
+the chalet sent to him in pieces by Fechter, the upper room of which--up
+among the quivering boughs, where "birds and butterflies fly in and out,
+and green branches shoot in at the windows"--Dickens lined with mirrors
+and used as his study in summer. Of the work produced at Gad's Hill--"A
+Tale of Two Cities," "The Uncommercial Traveler," "Our Mutual Friend,"
+"The Mystery of Edwin Drood," and many tales and sketches of "All the
+Year Round"--much was written in this leaf-environed nook; here the
+master wrought through the golden hours of his last day of conscious
+life, here he wrote his last paragraph and at the close of that June day
+let fall his pen, never to take it up again. From the place of the
+chalet we behold the view which delighted the heart of Dickens--his desk
+was so placed that his eyes would rest upon this view whenever he raised
+them from his work--the fields of waving corn, the green expanse of
+meadows, the sail-dotted river.
+
+
+
+RYDAL MOUNT [Footnote: From "Homes and Haunts of the Most Eminent
+British Poets."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT
+
+As you advance a mile or more on the road from Ambleside toward
+Grasmere, a lane overhung with trees turns up to the right, and there,
+at some few hundred yards from the highway, stands the modest cottage of
+the poet, elevated on Rydal Mount, so as to look out over the
+surrounding sea of foliage, and to take in a glorious view. Before it,
+at some distance across the valley, stretches a high screen of bold and
+picturesque mountains; behind, it is overtowered by a precipitous hill,
+called Nab-scar; but to the left, you look down over the broad waters of
+Windermere, and to the right over the still and more embosomed flood
+of Grasmere.
+
+Whichever way the poet pleases to advance from his house, it must be
+into scenery of that beauty of mountain, stream, wood, and lake, which
+has made Cumberland so famous over all England. He may steal away up
+backward from his gate and ascend into the solitary hills, or diverging
+into the grounds of Lady Mary Fleming, his near neighbor, may traverse
+the deep shades of the woodland, wander along the banks of the rocky
+rivulet, and finally stand before the well known waterfall there. If he
+descend into the highway, objects of beauty still present themselves.
+Cottages and quiet houses here and there glance from their little spots
+of Paradise, through the richest boughs of trees; Windermere, with its
+wide expanse of waters, its fairy islands, its noble hills, allures his
+steps in one direction; while the sweet little lake of Rydal, with its
+heronry and its fine background of rocks, invites him in another.
+
+In this direction the vale of Grasmere, the scene of his early married
+life, opens before him, and Dunmail-raise and Langdale-pikes lift their
+naked corky summits, as hailing him to the pleasures of old
+companionship. Into no quarter of this region of lakes, and mountains,
+and vales of primitive life, can he penetrate without coming upon ground
+celebrated by his muse. He is truly "sole king of rocky Cumberland."
+
+The immediate grounds in which his house stands are worthy of the
+country and the man. It is, as its name implies, a mount. Before the
+house opens a considerable platform, and around and beneath lie various
+terraces and descend various walks, winding on amid a profusion of trees
+and luxuriant evergreens. Beyond the house, you ascend various terraces,
+planted with trees now completely overshadowing them; and these terraces
+conduct you to a level above the house-top, and extend your view of the
+enchanting scenery on all sides.
+
+Above you tower the rocks and precipitous slopes of Nab-scar; and below
+you, embosomed in its trees, lies the richly ornate villa of Mr. William
+Ball, a friend, whose family and the poet's are on such social terms,
+that a little gate between their premises opens both to each family
+alike. This cottage and grounds were formerly the property of Charles
+Lloyd, also a friend, and one of the Bristol and Stowey coterie. Both he
+and Lovell have been long dead; Lovell, indeed, was drowned, on a voyage
+to Ireland, in the very heyday of the dreams of Pantisocracy, in which
+he was an eager participant.
+
+The poet's house, itself, is a proper poet's abode. It is at once
+modest, plain, yet tasteful and elegant. An ordinary dining-room, a
+breakfast-room in the center, and a library beyond, form the chief
+apartments. There are a few pictures and busts, especially those of
+Scott and himself, a good engraving of Burns, and the like, with a good
+collection of books, few of them very modern.
+
+
+
+TWICKENHAM [Footnote: From "Homes and Haunts of the Most Eminent British
+Poets."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT
+
+It seems that Pope did not purchase the freehold of the house and
+grounds at Twickenham, but only a long lease. He took his father and
+mother along with him. His father died there the year after, but his
+mother continued to live till 1733, when she died at the great age of
+ninety-three. For twenty years she had the singular satisfaction of
+seeing her son the first poet of his age; carest by the greatest men of
+the time, courted by princes, and feared by all the base. No parents
+ever found a more tender and dutiful son. With him they shared in honor
+the ease and distinction he had acquired. They were the cherished
+objects of his home. Swift paid him no false compliment when he said, in
+condoling with him on his mother's death, "You are the most dutiful son
+I have ever known or heard of, which is a felicity not happening to one
+in a million."
+
+The property at Twickenham is properly described by Roscoe as lying on
+both sides of the highway, rendering it necessary for him to cross the
+road to arrive at the higher and more ornamental part of his gardens. In
+order to obviate this inconvenience, he had recourse to the expedient of
+excavating a passage under the road from one part of his grounds to the
+other, a fact to which he alludes in these lines:
+
+  "Know all the toil the heavy world can heap,
+  Rolls o'er my grotto, nor disturbs my sleep."
+
+The lower part of these grounds, in which his house stood, constituted,
+in fact, only the sloping bank of the river, by much the smaller portion
+of his territory. The passage, therefore, was very necessary to that far
+greater part, which was his wilderness, shrubbery, forest, and every
+thing, where he chiefly planted and worked. This passage he formed into
+a grotto, having a front of rude stonework opposite to the river and
+decorated within with spars, ores, and shells. Of this place he has
+himself left this description:
+
+"I have put the last hand to my works of this kind, in happily finishing
+the subterranean way and grotto. I found there a spring of the clearest
+water, which falls in a perpetual rill, that echoes through the cavern
+night and day. From the River Thames you see through my arch, up a walk
+of the wilderness, to a kind of open temple wholly composed of shells in
+the rustic manner; and from that distance under the temple you look down
+through a sleeping arcade of trees, and see the sails on the river
+passing suddenly and vanishing, as through a perspective glass. When you
+shut the door of this grotto, it becomes, on the instant, from a
+luminous room, a camera obscura, on the walls of which all the objects
+of the river, hills, woods, and boats are forming a moving picture, in
+their visible radiations; and when you have a mind to light it less, it
+affords you a very different scene. It is finished with shells,
+interspersed with looking-glass in regular forms, and in the ceiling is
+a star of the same material, at which, when a lamp of an orbicular
+figure of thin alabaster is hung in the middle, a thousand pointed rays
+glitter, and are reflected over the place. There are connected to this
+grotto, by a narrow passage, two porches, one toward the river, of
+smooth stones full of light and open; the other toward the garden,
+shadowed with trees, rough with shells, flints, and iron ore. The bottom
+is paved with simple pebbles, as is also the adjoining walk up the
+wilderness to the temple, in the natural state, agreeing not ill with
+the little dripping murmur, and the aquatic idea of the whole place. It
+wants nothing to complete it but a good statue with an inscription, like
+that beautiful antique one which you know I am so fond of. You will
+think I have been very poetical in this description; but it is pretty
+near the truth."
+
+But it was not merely in forming this grotto that Pope employed himself;
+it was in building and extending his house, which was in a Roman style,
+with columns, arcades, and porticos. The designs and elevations of these
+buildings may be seen by his own hand in the British Museum, drawn in
+his usual way on backs of letters. The following passage, in a letter to
+Mr. Digby, will be sufficient to give us his idea of both his Thamesward
+garden and his house in a summer view: "No ideas you could form in the
+winter could make you imagine what Twickenham is in this warm summer.
+Our river glitters beneath the unclouded sun, at the same time that its
+banks retain the verdure of showers; our gardens are offering their
+first nosegays; our trees, like new acquaintance brought happily
+together, are stretching their arms to meet each other, and growing
+nearer and nearer every hour. The birds are paying their thanksgiving
+songs for the new habitations I have made them. My building rises high
+enough to attract the eye and curiosity of the passenger from the river,
+where, upon beholding a mixture of beauty and ruin, he inquires, 'What
+house is falling, or what church is arising?' So little taste have our
+common Tritons for Vitruvius; whatever delight the poetical gods of the
+river may take in reflecting on their streams, my Tuscan porticos, or
+Ionic pilasters."
+
+Pope's architecture, like his poetry, has been the subject of much and
+vehement dispute. On the one hand, his grottos and his buildings have
+been vituperated as most tasteless and childish; on the other, applauded
+as beautiful and romantic. Into neither of these disputes need we enter.
+In both poetry and architecture a bolder spirit and a better taste have
+prevailed since Pope's time. With all his foibles and defects, Pope was
+a great poet of the critical and didactic kind, and his house and place
+had their peculiar beauties. He was himself half inclined to suspect the
+correctness of his fancy in such matters, and often rallies himself on
+his gimcracks and crotchets in both verse and prose....
+
+Pope's building madness, however, had method in it. Unlike the great
+romancer and builder of our time, [Footnote: Sir Walter Scott] he never
+allowed such things to bring him into debt. He kept his mind at ease by
+such prudence, and soothed and animated it under circumstances of
+continued evil by working among his trees, and grottos, and vines, and
+at his labors of poetry and translations. At the period succeeding the
+rebellion of 1715, when that event had implicated and scattered so many
+of his highest and most powerful friends, here he was laboring away at
+his "Homer" with a progress which astonished every one. Removed at once
+from the dissipations and distractions of London, and from the agreeable
+interruptions of such society, he found leisure and health enough here
+to give him vigor for exertions astonishing for so weak a frame. The
+tastes he indulged here, if they were not faultless according to our
+notions, were healthy, and they endured. To the end of his life he
+preserved his strong attachment to his house and grounds.
+
+
+
+V
+
+OTHER ENGLISH SCENES
+
+
+
+STONEHENGE [Footnote: From "English Traits." Published by Houghton,
+Mifflin Co. Emerson's second visit to England, during which he saw
+Stonehenge, was made in 1847. Of all the Druidical remains in Europe,
+Stonehenge is perhaps the most remarkable, altho at Carnac in Brittany
+on the northern shore of the Bay of Biscay, are Druidical remains more
+numerous, but in general they are smaller and less suggestive of
+constructive design.]
+
+BY RALPH WALDO EMERSON
+
+We left the train at Salisbury, and took a carriage to Amesbury, passing
+by Old Sarum, a bare, treeless hill, once containing the town which sent
+two members to Parliament--now, not a hut--and, arriving at Amesbury, we
+stopt at the George Inn. After dinner we walked to Salisbury Plain. On
+the broad downs, under the gray sky, not a house was visible, nothing
+but Stonehenge, which looked like a group of brown dwarfs in the wide
+expanse--Stonehenge and the barrows, which rose like green bosses about
+the plain, and a few hay ricks. On the top of a mountain the old temple
+would not be more impressive. Far and wide a few shepherds with their
+flocks sprinkled the plain, and a bagman drove along the road. It looked
+as if the wide margin given in this crowded isle to this primeval temple
+were accorded by the veneration of the British race to the old egg out
+of which all their ecclesiastical structures and history had proceeded.
+
+Stonehenge is a circular colonnade with a diameter of a hundred feet,
+and enclosing a second and third colonnade within. We walked round the
+stones, and clambered over them, to wont ourselves with their strange
+aspect and groupings, and found a nook sheltered from the wind among
+them, where C. [Footnote: Thomas Carlyle, the author of "Sartor
+Resartus," etc., etc.] lighted his cigar. It was pleasant to see that
+just this simplest of all simple structures--two upright stones and a
+lintel laid across--had long outstood all later churches, and all
+history, and were like what is most permanent on the face of the planet:
+these, and the barrows--(mere mounds of which there are a hundred and
+sixty within a circle of three miles about Stonehenge)--like the same
+mound on the plain of Troy, which still makes good to the passing
+mariner on Hellespont, the vaunt of Homer and the fame of Achilles.
+Within the enclosure grow buttercups, nettles, and, all around, wild
+thyme, daisy, meadowsweet, goldenrod, thistle, and the carpeting grass.
+Over us, larks were soaring and singing--as my friend said: "the larks
+which were hatched last year, and the wind which was hatched many
+thousand years ago." We counted and measured by paces the biggest
+stones, and soon knew as much as any man can suddenly know of the
+inscrutable temple. There are ninety-four stones, and there were once
+probably one hundred and sixty. The temple is circular and uncovered,
+and the situation fixt astronomically--the grand entrances here, and at
+Abury, being placed exactly northeast, "as all the gates of the old
+cavern temples are." How came the stones here, for these sarsens or
+Druidical sandstones are not found in this neighborhood? The sacrificial
+stone, as it is called, is the only one in all these blocks that can
+resist the action of fire, and, as I read in the books, must have been
+brought one hundred and fifty miles.
+
+On almost every stone we found the marks of the mineralogist's hammer
+and chisel. The nineteen smaller stones of the inner circle are of
+granite. I, who had just come from Professor Sedgwick's Cambridge Museum
+of megatheria and mastodons, was ready to maintain that some cleverer
+elephants or mylodonta had borne off and laid these rocks one on
+another. Only the good beasts must have known how to cut a well-wrought
+tenon and mortise, and to smooth the surface of some of the stones. The
+chief mystery is, that any mystery should have been allowed to settle on
+so remarkable a monument, in a country on which all the muses have kept
+their eyes now for eighteen hundred years. We are not yet too late to
+learn much more than is known of this structure. Some diligent Fellowes
+or Layard will arrive, stone by stone, at the whole history, by that
+exhaustive British sense and perseverance, so whimsical in its choice of
+objects, which leaves its own Stonehenge or Choir Gaur to the rabbits,
+while it opens pyramids, and uncovers Nineveh. Stonehenge, in virtue of
+the simplicity of its plan, and its good preservation, is as if new and
+recent; and, a thousand years hence, men will thank this age for the
+accurate history it will yet eliminate.
+
+
+
+MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND [Footnote: From "Pilgrimages to English Shrines."
+Magna Charta Island lies in the Thames, a few miles below Windsor.]
+
+BY MRS. S. C. HALL.
+
+The Company of Basket-makers (if there be such a company) have claimed a
+large portion of the field--where the barons, "clad in complete steel,"
+assembled to confer with King John upon the great charter of English
+freedom, by which, Hume truly but coldly says, "very important
+liabilities and privileges were either granted or secured to every order
+of men in the kingdom; to the clergy, to the barons, and to the
+people"--the Basket-makers, we say, have availed themselves of the low
+land of Runnymead to cultivate osiers; piles and stacks of "withies" in
+various stages of utility, for several hundred yards shut out the river
+from the wayfarer, but as he proceeds they disappear, and Cooper's Hill
+on the left, the rich flat of Runnymead, the Thames, and the groves of
+time-honored Anckerwycke, on its opposite bank, form together a rich and
+most interesting picture.
+
+It is now nearly a hundred years since it was first proposed to erect a
+triumphal column upon Runnymead; but we have sometimes a strange
+antipathy to do what would seem avoidable; the monument to the memory of
+Hampden is a sore proof of the niggardliness of liberals to the liberal;
+but all monuments to such a man or to such a cause must appear poor; the
+names "Hampden" and "Runnymead" suffice; the green and verdant mead,
+encircled by the coronet of Cooper's Hill, reposing beneath the sun, and
+shadowed by the passing cloud, is an object of reverence and beauty,
+immortalized by the glorious liberty which the bold barons of England
+forced from a spiritless tyrant.
+
+Tho Cooper's Hill has no claim to the sublimity of mountain scenery, its
+peculiar situation commands a broad expanse of country. It rises
+abruptly from the Runnymead meadows, and extends its long ridge in a
+northwesterly direction; the summit is approached by a winding road,
+which from different points of the ascent progressively unfolds a
+gorgeous number of fertile views, such as no other country in the
+world can give.
+
+  "Of hills and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires,
+  And glittering towns, and silver streams."
+
+We have heard that the views from Kingswood Lodge--the dwelling of the
+hill--are delicious, and that its conservatory contains an exquisite
+marble statue of "Hope." On the west of Cooper's Hill is the interesting
+estate of Anckerwycke Purnish. Anckerwycke has been for a series of
+years in the possession of the family of Harcourt. There is a "meet" of
+the three shires in this vicinity--Surrey, Buckinghamshire, and
+Berkshire. The views from the grounds of Anekerwycke are said to be of
+exceeding beauty, and the kindness of its master makes eloquent the poor
+about his domain. All these things, and the sound of the rippling waters
+of the Thames, and the songs of the myriad birds which congregate in its
+groves, and the legends sprung of its antiquity, all contribute to the
+adornment of the gigantic fact that here, King John, sorely against his
+will, signed Magna Charta! How that single fact fills the soul, and
+nerves the spirit; how proudly the British birthright throbs within our
+bosoms. We long to lead the new Napoleon, the absolute Nicholas, the
+frank, hospitable, and brave, but sometimes overconfident American, to
+this green sward of Runnymead and tell them that here was secured to the
+Englishman a liberty which other nations have never enjoyed! Here in the
+thickset beauty of yon little island, was our Charter granted.
+
+There has been much dispute as to whether the Charter was signed upon
+the Mead or on the island called "Magna Charta Island," which forms a
+charming feature in the landscape, and upon which is built a little sort
+of altar-house, so to call it. We leave the settlement of such matters
+to wiser and more learned heads; but we incline to the idea that John
+would have felt even the mimic ferry a protection. The island looks even
+now exclusive, and as we were impelled to its shore, we indulged the
+belief that the charter was really there signed by the king.
+
+There was a poetic feeling in whoever planted the bank of
+"Forget-me-not" just at the entrance to the low apartment which was
+fitted up to contain the charter stone, by the late Simon Harcourt,
+Esq., in the year 1835. The inscription on the stone is as follows:--"Be
+it remembered, that on this island, in June, 1215, John, King of
+England, Signed the Magna Charta, and in the year 1834, this building
+was erected in commemoration of that great and important event by George
+Simon Harcourt, Esq., Lord of the Manor and then High Sheriff of the
+county." A gentleman rents the island from Mr. Harcourt, and has built
+there a Gothic cottage in excellent keeping with the place. It adjoins
+the altar-room, but does not interfere with it, nor with the privileges
+so graciously bestowed on the public by Mr. Harcourt--permitting
+patriots or fishermen to visit the island, and picnic in a tent prepared
+for the purpose, under the shelter of some superb walnut trees.
+
+
+
+THE HOME OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS [Footnote: From "Old England: Its
+Scenery, Art and People." Published Toy Houghton, Mifflin Co.]
+
+BY JAMES M. HOPPIN.
+
+Twelve miles to the south of Doncaster, on the great Northern line of
+railway, and just at the junction of Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, and
+Lincolnshire, in the county of Nottingham, but bordering upon the fenny
+districts of Lincolnshire, whose monotonous scenery reminds one of
+Holland, lies the village of Scrooby. Surely it is of more interest to
+us than all the Pictish forts and Roman walls that the "Laird of
+Monkbarns" ever dreamed of. I was dropt out of the railway-carriage,
+which hardly stopt upon a wide plain at a miniature station-house, with
+some suspicions of a church and small village across the flat rushy
+fields in the distance. This was indeed the humble village (tho now
+beginning to be better known) which I had been searching for; and which
+nobody of whom I inquired in Doncaster, or on the line of the railway,
+seemed to know anything about, or even that such a place existed. I made
+its discovery by the help of a good map. The station-master said he came
+to Scrooby in 1851, and then it numbered three hundred inhabitants; and
+since that time there had been but twelve deaths.
+
+My search for the manor-house where Brewster and Bradford established
+the first church of the Pilgrims, was, for a time, entirely fruitless. I
+inquired of a genuine "Hodge" working in the fields; but his round red
+face showed no glimmer of light on the matter so far removed from beans
+and barley. I next encountered a good Wesleyan minister, trudging his
+morning circuit of pastoral visitation, but could gain nothing from him,
+tho a chatty, communicative man. At the venerable stone church of
+Scrooby, very rude and plain in architecture, but by no means devoid of
+picturesqueness, I was equally unsuccessful. The verger of the church,
+who is generally the learned man of the village, was absent; and his
+daughter knew nothing outside the church and churchyard.
+
+I strolled along the grassy country road that ran through the place till
+I met a white-haired old countryman, who proved to be the most
+intelligent soul in the neighborhood. He put his cane to his chin, shut
+and opened his eyes, and at last told me in broad Yorkshire, that he
+thought the place I was looking for must be what they called "the
+bishop's house," where Squire Dickinson lived. Set at last upon the
+right track, I walked across two swampy meadows that bordered the Idle
+River--pertinently named--till I came to a solitary farmhouse with a
+red-tiled roof. Some five or six slender poplar-trees stood at the back
+of it, and a ditch of water at one end, where there had been evidently
+an ancient moat--"a moated grange."
+
+It was a desolate spot, and was rendered more so just then by the coming
+up of a thunder-storm, whose "avant courier," the wind, made the slender
+poplars and osiers bend and twist. Squire John Dickinson, the present
+inhabitant of the house, which is owned by Richard Monckton Milnes, the
+poet, gave me a hearty farmer's welcome. I think he said there had been
+one other American there before; at any rate he had an inkling that he
+was squatted on soil of some peculiar interest to Americans. He
+introduced me to his wife and daughters, healthy and rosy-cheeked
+English women, and made me sit down to a hospitable luncheon. He
+entertained me with a discourse upon the great amount of hard work to be
+done in farming among these bogs, and wished he had never undertaken it,
+but had gone to America or Australia. The house, he said, was rickety
+enough, but he contrived to make it do. It was, he thought, principally
+made of what was once a part of the stable of the Manor House.
+
+The palace itself has now entirely disappeared; "but," said my host,
+"dig anywhere around here and you will find the ruins of the old
+palace." Dickinson said that he himself was reared in Austerfield, a few
+miles off in Yorkshire; and that a branch of the Bradford family still
+lived there. After luncheon I was shown Cardinal Wolsey's mulberry-tree,
+or what remained of it; and in one of the barns, some elaborately carved
+woodwork and ornamental beams, covered with dirt and cobwebs, were
+pointed out, which undoubtedly belonged to the archiepiscopal palace.
+
+This was all that remained of the house where Elder Brewster once lived,
+and gathered his humble friends about him, in a simple form of
+worship.... This manor was assigned to the Archbishop of York in the
+"Doomsday Book." Cardinal Wolsey, when he held that office, passed some
+time at this palace. While he lived there, Henry VIII. slept a night in
+the house. It came into Archbishop Sandys's hands in 1576. He gave it by
+lease to his son, Samuel Sandys, under whom Brewster held the manor.
+Brewster, as is now well known, was the Post-Superintendent of Scrooby,
+an important position in those days, lying as the village did, and does
+now, upon the great northern line of travel from London to Yorkshire,
+Northumberland, and Scotland....
+
+But to look at this lonely and decayed manor-house, standing in the
+midst of these flat and desolate marshes, and at this most obscure
+village of the land, this Nazareth of England, slumbering in rustic
+ignorance and stupid apathy, and to think of what has come out of this
+place, of what vast influences and activities have issued from this
+quiet and almost listless scene, one has strange feelings. The storied
+"Alba Longa," from which Rome sprang, is an interesting spot, but the
+newly discovered spiritual birthplace of America may excite
+deeper emotions.
+
+
+
+OXFORD [Footnote: From "Oxford and Her Colleges." By arrangement with
+the publishers, Macmillan Co. Copyright, 1893.]
+
+BY GOLDWIN SMITH
+
+There is in Oxford much that is not as old as it looks. The buildings of
+the Bodleian Library, University College, Oriel, Exeter, and some
+others, medieval or half medieval in their style, are Stuart in date. In
+Oxford the Middle Ages lingered long. Yon cupola of Christ Church is the
+work of Wren, yon towers of All Souls' are the work of a still later
+hand. The Headington stone, quickly growing black and crumbling, gives
+the buildings a false hue of antiquity. An American visitor, misled by
+the blackness of University College, remarked to his host that the
+buildings must be immensely old. "No," replied his host, "their color
+deceives you; their age is not more than two hundred years." It need not
+be said that Palladian edifices like Queen's, or the new buildings of
+Magdalen, are not the work of a Chaplain of Edward III., or a Chancellor
+of Henry VI. But of the University buildings, St. Mary's Church and the
+Divinity School, of the College buildings, the old quadrangles of
+Merton, New College, Magdalen, Brasenose, and detached pieces not a few
+are genuine Gothic of the Founders' age.
+
+Here are six centuries, if you choose to include the Norman castle, here
+are eight centuries, and, if you choose to include certain Saxon
+remnants in Christ Church Cathedral, here are ten centuries, chronicled
+in stone. Of the corporate lives of these Colleges, the threads have run
+unbroken through all the changes and revolutions, political, religious,
+and social, between the Barons' War and the present hour. The economist
+goes to their muniment rooms for the record of domestic management and
+expenditure during those ages.
+
+Till yesterday, the codes of statutes embodying their domestic law, tho
+largely obsolete, remained unchanged. Nowhere else in England, at all
+events, unless it be at the sister University, can the eye and mind feed
+upon so much antiquity, certainly not upon so much antique beauty, as on
+the spot where we stand. That all does not belong to the same remote
+antiquity, adds to the interest and to the charm. This great home of
+learning, with its many architectures, has been handed from generation
+to generation, each generation making its own improvements, impressing
+its own tastes, embodying its own tendencies, down to the present hour.
+It is like a great family mansion, which owner after owner has enlarged
+or improved to meet his own needs or tastes, and which, thus chronicling
+successive phases of social and domestic life, is wanting in uniformity
+but not in living interest or beauty.
+
+Oxford is a federation of Colleges. It had been strictly so for two
+centuries, and every student had been required to be a member of a
+college when, in 1856, non-collegiate students, of whom there are now a
+good many, were admitted. The University is the federal government. The
+Chancellor, its nominal head, is a non-resident grandee, usually a
+political leader whom the University delights to honor and whose
+protection it desires. Only on great state occasions does he appear in
+his gown richly embroidered with gold. The acting chief is the
+Vice-Chancellor, one of the heads of Colleges, who marches with the
+Bedel carrying the mace before him, and has been sometimes taken by
+strangers for the attendant of the Bedel. With him are the two Proctors,
+denoted by their velvet sleeves, named by the Colleges in turn, the
+guardians of University discipline.
+
+The University Legislature consists of three houses--an elective
+Council, made up equally of heads of Colleges, professors, and Masters
+of Arts; the Congregation of residents, mostly teachers of the
+University or Colleges; and the Convocation, which consists of all
+Masters of Arts, resident or non-resident, if they are present to vote.
+Congregation numbers 400, Convocation nearly 6,000. Legislation is
+initiated by the Council, and has to make its way through Convocation
+and Congregation, with some chance of being wrecked between the
+academical Congregation, which is progressive, and the rural
+Convocation, which is conservative. The University regulates the general
+studies, holds all the examinations, except that at entrance, which is
+held by the Colleges, confers all the degrees and honors, and furnishes
+the police of the academical city. Its professors form the general and
+superior staff of teachers. Each College, at the same time, is a little
+polity in itself. It has its own governing body, consisting of a Head
+(President, Master, Principal, Provost, or Warden) and a body of
+Fellows. It holds its own estates; noble estates, some of them are. It
+has its private staff of teachers or tutors, usually taken from the
+Fellows, tho the subjects of teaching are those recognized by the
+University examinations....
+
+The buildings of the University lie mainly in the center of the city
+around us. There is the Convocation House, the hall of the University
+Legislature, where, in times of collision between theological parties,
+or between the party of the ancient system of education and that of the
+modern system, lively debates have been heard. In it, also, are
+conferred the ordinary degrees. They are still conferred in the
+religious form of words, handed down from the Middle Ages, the candidate
+kneeling down before the Vice-Chancellor in the posture of medieval
+homage. Oxford is the classic ground of old forms and ceremonies. Before
+each degree is conferred, the Proctors march up and down the House to
+give any objector to the degree--an unsatisfied creditor, for
+example--the opportunity of entering a caveat by "plucking" the
+Proctor's sleeve. Adjoining the Convocation House is the Divinity
+School, the only building of the University, saving St. Mary's Church,
+which dates from the Middle Ages. A very beautiful relic of the Middle
+Ages it is when seen from the gardens of Exeter College. Here are held
+the examinations for degrees in theology, styled, in Oxford of old,
+queen of the sciences, and long their tyrant. Here, again, is the
+Sheldonian Theater, the gift of Archbishop Sheldon, a Primate of the
+Restoration period, and as readers of Pepys's "Diary" know, of
+Restoration character, but a patron of learning....
+
+The Clarendon was built with the proceeds of the history written by the
+Minister of the early Restoration, who was Chancellor of the University,
+and whose touching letter of farewell to her, on his fall and flight
+from England, may be seen in the Bodleian Library. There, also, are
+preserved documents which may help to explain his fall. They are the
+written dialogs which passed between him and his master at the board of
+the Privy Council, and they show that Clarendon, having been the
+political tutor of Charles the exile, too much bore himself as the
+political tutor of Charles the king. In the Clarendon are the University
+Council Chamber and the Registry. Once it was the University press, but
+the press has now a far larger mansion yonder to the northwest, whence,
+besides works of learning and science, go forth Bibles and prayer-books
+in all languages to all quarters of the globe. Legally, as a printer of
+Bibles the University has a privilege, but its real privilege is that
+which it secures for itself by the most scrupulous accuracy and by
+infinitesimal profits.
+
+Close by is the University Library, the Bodleian, one of those great
+libraries of the world in which you can ring up at a few minutes' notice
+almost any author of any age or country. This Library is one of those
+entitled by law to a copy of every book printed in the United Kingdom,
+and it is bound to preserve all that it receives, a duty which might in
+the end burst any building, were it not that the paper of many modern
+books is happily perishable.... We stand in the Radcliffe, formerly the
+medical and physical library, now a supplement and an additional
+reading-room of the Bodleian, the gift of Dr. Radcliffe, Court Physician
+and despot of the profession in the times of William and Anne, of whose
+rough sayings, and sayings more than rough, some are preserved in his
+"Life." He it was who told William III. that he would not have His
+Majesty's two legs for his three kingdoms, and who is said to have
+punished the giver of a niggardly fee by a prediction of death, which
+was fulfilled by the terrors of the patient. Close at hand is the
+Ashmolean, the old University Museum, now only a museum of antiquities,
+the most precious of which is King Alfred's gem. Museum and Medical
+Library have together migrated to the new edifice on the north side
+of the city.
+
+But of all the University buildings the most beautiful is St. Mary's
+Church, where the University sermons are preached, and from the pulpit
+of which, in the course of successive generations and successive
+controversies, a changeful and often heady current of theology has
+flowered. There preached Newman, Pusey, and Manning; there preached
+Hampden, Stanley, and the authors of "Essays and Reviews." ...
+
+On the north of the city, where fifty years ago stretched green fields,
+is now seen a suburb of villas, all of them bespeaking comfort and
+elegance, few of them overweening wealth. These are largely the
+monuments of another great change, the removal of the rule of celibacy
+from the Fellowships, and the introduction of a large body of married
+teachers devoted to their profession, as well as of the revival of the
+Professorships, which were always tenable by married men. Fifty years
+ago the wives of Heads of Houses, who generally married late in life if
+they married at all, constituted, with one or two officers of the
+University, the whole female society of Oxford. The change was
+inevitable, if education was to be made a profession, instead of being,
+as it had been in the hands of celibate Fellows of Colleges, merely the
+transitory occupation of a man whose final destination was the parish.
+Those who remember the old Common Room life, which is now departing, can
+not help looking back with a wistful eye to its bachelor ease, its
+pleasant companionship, its interesting talk and free interchange of
+thought, its potations neither "deep" nor "dull."
+
+Nor were its symposia without important fruits when such men as Newman
+and Ward, on one side, encountered such men as Whateley, Arnold, and
+Tait, on the other side in Common Room talk over great questions of the
+day. But the life became dreary when a man had passed forty, and it is
+well exchanged for the community that fills those villas, and which,
+with its culture, its moderate and tolerably equal incomes, permitting
+hospitality but forbidding luxury, and its unity of interests with its
+diversity of acquirements and accomplishments, seems to present the
+ideal conditions of a pleasant social life. The only question is, how
+the College system will be maintained when the Fellows are no longer
+resident within the walls of the College to temper and control the
+younger members, for a barrack of undergraduates is not a good thing.
+The personal bond and intercourse between Tutor and pupil under the
+College system was valuable as well as pleasant; it can not be resigned
+without regret. But its loss will be compensated by far
+superior teaching.
+
+
+
+CAMBRIDGE [Footnote: From "Old England: Its Scenery, Art and People."
+Published by Houghton, Mifflin Co.]
+
+BY JAMES M. HOPPIN.
+
+I was struck with the positive resemblances between Oxford and
+Cambridge. Both are situated on slightly rising ground, with broad green
+meadows and a flat, fenny country stretching around them. The winding
+and muddy Cam, holding the city in its arm, might be easily taken for
+the fond but still more capricious Isis, tho both of them are
+insignificant streams; and Jesus' College Green and Midsummer Common at
+Cambridge, correspond to Christ Church Meadows and those bordering the
+Cherwell at Oxford. At a little distance, the profile of Cambridge is
+almost precisely like that of Oxford, while glorious King's College
+Chapel makes up all deficiencies in the architectural features and
+outline of Cambridge.
+
+Starting from Bull Inn, we will not linger long in the streets, tho we
+might be tempted to do so by the luxurious book-shops, but will make
+straight for the gateway of Trinity College. This gateway is itself a
+venerable and imposing structure, altho a mass of houses clustered about
+it destroys its unity with the rest of the college buildings. Between
+its two heavy battlemented towers are a statue of Edward III. and his
+coat-of-arms; and over the gate Sir Isaac Newton had his observatory.
+
+This gateway introduces into a noble court, called the Great Court, with
+a carved stone fountain or canopied well in the center, and buildings of
+irregular sizes and different ages inclosing it. The chapel which forms
+the northern side of this court dates back to 1564. In the ante-chapel,
+or vestibule, stands the statue of Sir Isaac Newton, by Roubiliac. It is
+spirited, but, like all the works of this artist, unnaturally
+attenuated. The head is compact rather than large, and the forehead
+square rather than high. The face has an expression of abstract
+contemplation, and is looking up, as if the mind were just fastening
+upon the beautiful law of light which is suggested by the hand holding a
+prism. By the door of the screen entering into the chapel proper, are
+the sitting statues of Sir Francis Bacon and Dr. Isaac Barrow, two more
+giants of this college. The former represents the philosopher in a
+sitting posture, wearing his high-crowned hat, and leaning thoughtfully
+upon his hand.
+
+The hall of Trinity College, which separates the Great Court from the
+Inner or Neville Court, (courts in Cambridge, quads in Oxford), is the
+glory of the college. Its interior is upward of one hundred feet in
+length, oak-wainscoted, with deep beam-work ceiling, now black with age,
+and an enormous fireplace, which in winter still blazes with its old
+hospitable glow. At the upper end where the professors and fellows sit,
+hang the portraits of Bacon and Newton. I had the honor of dining in
+this most glorious of banqueting-halls, at the invitation of a fellow of
+the college. Before meals, the ancient Latin, grace, somewhat
+abbreviated, is pronounced.
+
+We pass through the hall into Neville Court, three sides of which are
+cloistered, and in the eastern end of which stands the fine library
+building, built through the exertions of Dr. Barrow, who was determined
+that nothing in Oxford should surpass his own darling college.
+
+The library room is nearly two hundred feet long, with tesselated marble
+floor, and with the busts of the great men of Trinity ranged around the
+walls. The wood-carvings of Grinling Gibbons that adorn this room, of
+flowers, fruit, wheat, grasshoppers, birds, are of singular beauty, and
+make the hard oak fairly blossom and live. This library contains the
+most complete collection of the various editions of Shakespeare's Works
+which exists. Thorwaldsen's statue of Byron, who was a student of this
+college, stands at the south end of the room. It represents him in the
+bloom of youth, attired as a pilgrim, with pencil in hand and a broken
+Grecian column at his feet....
+
+The next neighbor to Trinity on the north, and the next in point of size
+and importance in the University, is St. John's College. It has four
+courts, one opening into the other. It also is jealously surrounded by
+high walls, and its entrance is by a ponderous old tower, having a
+statue of St. John the Evangelist over the gateway. Through a covered
+bridge, not unlike "the Bridge of Sighs," one passes over the stream to
+a group of modern majestic castellated buildings of yellow stone
+belonging to this college. The grounds, walks, and thick groves
+connected with this building form an elegant academic shade, and tempt
+to a life of exclusive study and scholarly accumulation, of growing fat
+in learning, without perhaps growing muscular in the effort to
+use it....
+
+King's College, founded by Henry VII., from whom it takes its name,
+comes next in order. Its wealthy founder, who, like his son, loved
+architectural pomp, had great designs in regard to this institution,
+which were cut off by his death, but the massive unfinished gateway of
+the old building stands as a regal specimen of what the whole plan would
+have been had it been carried out. Henry VIII., however, perfected some
+of his father's designs on a scale of true magnificence. King's College
+Chapel, the glory of Cambridge and England, is in the perpendicular
+style of English Gothic. It is three hundred and sixteen feet long,
+eighty-four feet broad, its sides ninety feet, and its tower one hundred
+and forty-six feet high. Its lofty interior stone roof in the
+fan-tracery form of groined ceiling has the appearance of being composed
+of immense white scallop-shells, with heavy corbels of rich flowers and
+bunches of grapes suspended at their points of junction. The ornamental
+emblem of the Tudor rose and portcullis is carved in every conceivable
+spot and nook. Twenty-four stately and richly painted windows, divided
+into the strong vertical lines of the Perpendicular style, and crossed
+at right angles by lighter transoms and more delicate circular moldings,
+with the great east and west windows flashing in the most vivid and
+superb colors, make it a gorgeous vision of light and glory....
+
+On the same street, and nearly opposite St. Peter's, is Pembroke
+College, a most interesting and venerable pile, with a quaint gable
+front. Its buildings are small, and it is said, for some greatly needed
+city improvement, will probably be soon torn down; on hearing which, I
+thought, would that some genius like Aladdin's, or some angel who bore
+through the air the chapel of the "Lady of Loretto," might bear these
+old buildings bodily to our land and set them down on the Yale grounds,
+so that we might exchange their picturesque antiquity for the present
+college buildings, which, tho endeared to us by many associations, are
+like a row of respectable brick factories.
+
+Edmund Spenser and William Pitt belonged to Pembroke; and Gray, the
+poet, driven from St. Peter's by the pranks and persecutions of his
+fellow students, spent the remainder of his university life here. Some
+of the cruel, practical jokes inflicted upon the timid and delicate
+nature sound like the modern days of "hazing freshmen." Among his other
+fancies and fears, Gray was known to be especially afraid of fire, and
+kept always coiled up in his room a rope-ladder, in case of emergency.
+By a preconcerted signal, on a dark winter night, a tremendous cry of
+fire was raised in the court below, which caused the young poet to leap
+out of bed and to hastily descend his rope-ladder into a mighty tub of
+ice-cold water, set for that purpose....
+
+Sidney Sussex and Imanuel Colleges were called by Archbishop Laud "the
+nurseries of Puritanism." The college-book of Sidney Sussex contains
+this record: "Oliver Cromwell of Huntingdon was admitted as an associate
+on the 26th day of April, 1616. Tutor Richard Howlet." He had just
+completed his seventeenth year. Cromwell's father dying the next year,
+and leaving but a small estate, the young "Protector" was obliged to
+leave college for more practical pursuits. "But some Latin," Bishop
+Burnett said, "stuck to him." An oriel window looking upon Bridge
+Street, is pointed out as marking his room; and in the master's lodge is
+a likeness of Cromwell in his later years, said to be the best extant.
+The gray hair is parted in the middle of the forehead, and hangs down
+long upon the shoulders, like that of Milton. The forehead is high and
+swelling, with a deep line sunk between the eyes. The eyes are gray. The
+complexion is florid and mottled, and all the features rugged and large.
+Heavy, corrugated furrows of decision and resolute will are plowed about
+the mouth, and the lips are shut like a vice. Otherwise, the face has a
+calm and benevolent look, not unlike that of Benjamin Franklin.
+
+In Sidney Sussex, Cromwell's College, and in two or three other colleges
+of Cambridge University, we find the head-sources of English Puritanism,
+which, in its best form, was no wild and unenlightened enthusiasm, but
+the product of thoughtful and educated minds. We shall come soon upon
+the name of Milton. John Robinson, our national father, and the Moses of
+our national exodus, as well as Elder Brewster, John Cotton and many
+others of the principal Puritan leaders and divines, were educated at
+Cambridge. Sir Henry Vane, the younger, whom Macintosh regarded as not
+inferior to Bacon in depth of intellect, and to whom Milton addrest the
+sonnet, who was chosen Governor of Massachusetts, and who infused much
+of his own thoughtful and profound spirit into Puritan institutions at
+home and in America, was a student of Magdalen College, Oxford.
+
+A little further on to the south of Sidney Sussex, upon St. Andrew's
+Street, is Christ's College. The front and gate are old; the other
+buildings are after a design by Inigo Jones. In the garden stands the
+famous mulberry-tree said to have been planted by Milton. It is still
+vigorous, tho carefully propt up and mounded around, and its aged trunk
+is sheathed with lead. The martyr Latimer, John Howe, the prince of
+theological writers, and Archdeacon Paley, belonged to this college; but
+its most brilliant name is that of John Milton. He entered in 1624; took
+the degree of Bachelor of Arts in 1628, and that of Master of Arts in
+1632. This is the entry in the college record: "John Milton of London,
+son of John Milton, was entered as a student in the elements of letters
+under Master Hill of the Pauline School, February 12, 1624...." Milton
+has indignantly defended himself against the slander of his political
+enemies, that he left college in disgrace, and calls it "a
+commodious lie." ...
+
+It is noticeable that Cambridge has produced all the great poets;
+Oxford, with her yearnings and strivings, none. Milton were glory
+enough; but Spenser, Gray, Byron, Coleridge, Wordsworth, Tennyson (a
+Lincolnshire man), may be thrown in. It might be said of Cambridge, as
+Dr. Johnson said of Pembroke College, "We are a nest of singing birds
+here." Milton, from the extreme elegance of his person and his mind,
+rather than from any effeminateness of character, was called while in
+the University, "the lady of Christ's College." The young poet could not
+have been inspired by outward Nature in his own room; for the miniature
+dormer-windows are too high to look out of at all. It is a small attic
+chamber, with very steep narrow stairs leading up to it. The name of
+"Milton" (so it is said to be, tho hard to make out) is cut in the old
+oaken door.
+
+
+
+CHESTER [Footnote: From "English Note-Books." By special arrangement
+with, and by permission of the publishers, Houghton, Mifflin Co.
+Copyright, 1870-1898.]
+
+BY NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE.
+
+I went with Mr. Ticknor to Chester by railway. It is quite an
+indescribable old town, and I feel as if I had had a glimpse of old
+England. The wall encloses a large space within the town, but there are
+numerous houses and streets not included within its precincts. Some of
+the principal streets pass under the ancient gateways; and at the side
+there are flights of steps, giving access to the summit. Around the top
+of the whole wall, a circuit of about two miles, there runs a walk, well
+paved with flagstones, and broad enough for three persons to walk
+abreast....
+
+The most utterly indescribable feature of Chester is the Rows, which
+every traveler has attempted to describe. At the height of several feet
+above some of the oldest streets, a walk runs through the front of the
+houses, which project over it. Back of the walk there are shops; on the
+outer side is a space of two or three yards, where the shopmen place
+their tables, and stands, and show-cases; overhead, just high enough for
+persons to stand erect, a ceiling. At frequent intervals little narrow
+passages go winding in among the houses, which all along are closely
+conjoined, and seem to have no access or exit, except through the shops,
+or into these narrow passages, where you can touch each side with your
+elbows, and the top with your hand. We penetrated into one or two of
+them, and they smelt anciently and disagreeably.
+
+At one of the doors stood a pale-looking, but cheerful and good-natured
+woman, who told us that she had come to that house when first married,
+21 years before, and had lived there ever since; and that she felt as if
+she had been buried through the best years of her life. She allowed us
+to peep into her kitchen and parlor--small, dingy, dismal, but yet not
+wholly destitute of a home look. She said she had seen two or three
+coffins in a day, during cholera times, carried out of that narrow
+passage into which her door opened. These avenues put me in mind of
+those which run through ant-hills, or those which a mole makes
+underground. This fashion of Rows does not appear to be going out; and,
+for aught I can see, it may last hundreds of years longer. When a house
+becomes so old as to be untenantable, it is rebuilt, and the new one is
+fashioned like the old, so far as regards the walk running through its
+front. Many of the shops are very good, and even elegant, and these Rows
+are the favorite places of business in Chester. Indeed, they have many
+advantages, the passengers being sheltered from the rain, and there
+being within the shops that dimmer light by which tradesmen like to
+exhibit their wares.
+
+A large proportion of the edifices in the Rows must be comparatively
+modern; but there are some very ancient ones, with oaken frames visible
+on the exterior. The Row, passing through these houses, is railed with
+oak, so old that it has turned black, and grown to be as hard as stone,
+which it might be mistaken for, if one did not see where names and
+initials have been cut into it with knives at some bygone period.
+Overhead, cross-beams project through the ceiling so low as almost to
+hit the head. On the front of one of these buildings was the
+inscription, "God's Providence is mine Inheritance," said to have been
+put there by the occupant of the house two hundred years ago, when the
+plague spared this one house only in the whole city. Not improbably the
+inscription has operated as a safeguard to prevent the demolition of the
+house hitherto; but a shopman of an adjacent dwelling told us that it
+was soon to be taken down. Here and there, about some of the streets
+through which the Rows do not run, we saw houses of very aged aspect,
+with steep, peaked gables. The front gable-end was supported on stone
+pillars, and the sidewalk passed beneath. Most of these old houses
+seemed to be taverns,--the Black Bear, the Green Dragon, and such names.
+We thought of dining at one of them, but, on inspection, they looked
+rather too dingy and close, and of questionable neatness. So we went to
+the Royal Hotel, where we probably fared just as badly at much more
+expense, and where there was a particularly gruff and crabbed old
+waiter, who, I suppose, thought himself free to display his surliness
+because we arrived at the hotel on foot. For my part, I love to see John
+Bull show himself. I must go again and again and again to Chester, for
+I suppose there is not a more curious place in the world.
+
+
+
+EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE [Footnote: From "Lightships and Lighthouses."
+Courtesy of J. B. Lippincott Co., the publishers.]
+
+BY FREDERICK A. TALBOT.
+
+It is doubtful whether the name of any lighthouse is so familiar
+throughout the English-speaking world as the "Eddystone." Certainly no
+other "pillar of fire by night, of cloud by day," can offer so romantic
+a story of dogged engineering perseverance, of heartrending
+disappointments, disaster, blasted hopes, and brilliant success.
+
+Standing out in the English Channel, about sixty miles east of the
+Lizard, is a straggling ridge of rocks which stretches for hundreds of
+yards across the marine thoroughfare, and also obstructs the western
+approach to Plymouth Harbor. But at a point some nine and a half miles
+south of Rame Head on the mainland the reef rises somewhat abruptly to
+the surface, so that at low-water two or three ugly granite knots are
+bared, which tell only too poignantly the complete destruction they
+could wreak upon a vessel which had the temerity or the ill luck to
+scrape over them at high-tide. Even in the calmest weather the sea curls
+and eddies viciously around these stones; hence the name "Eddystone," is
+derived....
+
+As British overseas traffic expanded, the idea of indicating the spot
+for the benefit of vessels was discust. The first practical suggestion
+was put forward about the year 1664, but thirty-two years elapsed before
+any attempt was made to reduce theory to practise. Then an eccentric
+English country gentleman, Henry Winstanley, who dabbled in mechanical
+engineering upon unorthodox lines, came forward and offered to build a
+lighthouse upon the terrible rocks. Those who knew this ambitious
+amateur were dubious of his success, and wondered what manifestation his
+eccentricity would assume on this occasion. Nor was their scepticism
+entirely misplaced. Winstanley raised the most fantastic lighthouse
+which has ever been known, and which would have been more at home in a
+Chinese cemetery than in the English Channel. It was wrought in wood and
+most lavishly embellished with carvings and gilding.
+
+Four years were occupied in its construction, and the tower was anchored
+to the rock by means of long, heavy irons. The light, merely a flicker,
+flashed out from this tower in 1699, and for the first time the
+proximity of the Eddystones was indicated all around the horizon by
+night. Winstanley's critics were rather free in expressing their opinion
+that the tower would come down with the first sou'wester, but the
+eccentric builder was so intensely proud of his invention as to venture
+the statement that it would resist the fiercest gale that ever blew,
+and, when such did occur, he hoped that he might be in the tower at
+the time.
+
+Fate gratified his wish, for while he was on the rock in the year 1703
+one of the most terrible tempests that ever have assailed the coasts of
+Britain gript the structure, tore it up by the roots, and hurled it into
+the Channel, where it was battered to pieces, its designer and five
+keepers going down with the wreck. When the inhabitants of Plymouth,
+having vainly scanned the horizon for a sign of the tower on the
+following morning, put off to the rock to investigate, they found only
+the bent and twisted iron rods by which the tower had been held in
+position projecting mournfully into the air from the rock-face.
+
+Shortly after the demolition of the tower, the reef, as if enraged at
+having been denied a number of victims owing to the existence of the
+warning light, trapt the "Winchelsea" as she was swinging up Channel,
+and smashed her to atoms, with enormous loss of life.
+
+Altho the first attempt to conquer the Eddystone had terminated so
+disastrously, it was not long before another effort was made to mark the
+reef. The builder this time was a Cornish laborer's son, John Rudyerd,
+who had established himself in business on Ludgate Hill as a silk
+mercer. In his youth he had studied civil engineering, but his friends
+had small opinion of his abilities in this craft. However, he attacked
+the problem boldly, and, altho his tower was a plain, business-looking
+structure, it would have been impossible to conceive a design capable of
+meeting the peculiar requirements of the situation more efficiently. It
+"was a cone, wrought in timber, built upon a stone and wood foundation
+anchored to the rock, and of great weight and strength. The top of the
+cone was cut off to permit the lantern to be set in position. The result
+was that externally the tower resembled the trunk of an oak tree, and
+appeared to be just about as strong. It offered the minimum of
+resistance to the waves, which, tumbling upon the ledge, rose and curled
+around the tapering form without starting a timber.
+
+For forty years Rudyerd's structure defied the elements, and probably
+would have been standing to this day had it not possest one weak point.
+
+It was built of wood instead of stone. Consequently, when a fire broke
+out in the lantern on December 4, 1755, the flames, fanned by the
+breeze, rapidly made their way downward.
+
+No time was lost in erecting another tower on the rock, for now it was
+more imperative than ever that the reef should be lighted adequately.
+The third engineer was John Smeaton, who first landed on the rock to
+make the surveys on April 5, 1756. He was able to stay there for only
+two and a quarter hours before the rising tide drove him off, but in
+that brief period he had completed the work necessary to the preparation
+of his design. Wood had succumbed to the attacks of tempest and of
+fire in turn.
+
+Smeaton would use material which would defy both--Portland stone. He
+also introduced a slight change in the design for such structures, and
+one which has been universally copied, producing the graceful form of
+lighthouse with which everyone is so familiar. Instead of causing the
+sides to slope upward in the straight lines of a cone, such as Rudyerd
+adopted, Smeaton preferred a slightly concave curve, so that the tower
+was given a waist about half its height. He also selected the oak tree
+as his guide, but one having an extensive spread of branches, wherein
+will be found a shape in the trunk, so far as the broad lines are
+concerned, which coincides with the form of Smeaton's lighthouse. He
+chose a foundation where the rock shelved gradually to its highest
+point, and dropt vertically into the water upon the opposite side. The
+face of the rock was roughly trimmed to permit the foundation stones of
+the tower to be laid. The base of the building was perfectly solid to
+the entrance level, and each stone was dovetailed securely into
+its neighbor.
+
+From the entrance, which was about 15 feet above high water, a central
+well, some five feet in diameter, containing a staircase, led to the
+storeroom, nearly 30 feet above high water. Above this was a second
+storeroom, a living-room as the third floor, and the bedroom beneath the
+lantern. The light was placed about 72 feet above high water, and
+comprised a candelabra having two rings, one smaller than and placed
+within the other, but raised about a foot above its level, the two being
+held firmly in position by means of chains suspended from the roof and
+secured to the floor. The rings were adapted to receive twenty-four
+lights, each candle weighing about two and three-quarter ounces. Even
+candle manufacture was in its infancy in those days, and periodically
+the keepers had to enter the lantern to snuff the wicks. In order to
+keep the watchers of the lights on the alert, Smeaton installed a clock
+of the grandfather pattern in the tower, and fitted it with a gong,
+which struck every half hour to apprise the men of these duties. This
+clock is now one of the most interesting relics in the museum at Trinity
+House.... [Footnote: Trinity House, an association founded in London in
+1512-1514, is "empowered by charter to examine, license and regulate
+pilots, to erect beacons and lighthouses, and to place buoys in channels
+and rivers."]
+
+The lighthouse had been standing for 120 years when ominous reports were
+received by the Trinity Brethren concerning the stability of the tower.
+The keepers stated that during severe storms the building shook
+alarmingly. A minute inspection of the structure was made, and it was
+found that, altho the work of Smeaton's masons was above reproach, time
+and weather had left their mark. The tower itself was becoming decrepit.
+The binding cement had decayed, and the air imprisoned and comprest
+within the interstices by the waves was disintegrating the structure
+slowly but surely.
+
+Under these circumstances it was decided to build a new tower on another
+convenient ledge, forming part of the main reef, about 120 feet distant.
+Sir James Douglass, the engineer-in-chief to Trinity House, completed
+the designs and personally superintended their execution. The Smeaton
+lines were taken as a basis, with one important exception. Instead of a
+curve commencing at the foundation, the latter comprized a perfect
+cylindrical monolith of masonry 22 feet in height by 44 feet in
+diameter. From this basis the tower springs to a height which brings the
+local plane 130 feet above the highest spring tides. The top of the base
+is 30 inches above high water, and, the tower's diameter being less than
+that of its plinth, the set-off forms an excellent landing-stage when
+the weather permits.
+
+The site selected for the Douglass tower being lower than that chosen by
+Smeaton, the initial work was more exacting, as the duration of the
+working period was reduced. The rock, being gneiss, was extremely tough,
+and the preliminary quarrying operations for the foundation stones which
+had to be sunk into the rock were tedious and difficult, especially as
+the working area was limited. Each stone was dovetailed, not only to its
+neighbor on either side, but below and above as well. The foundation
+stones were dovetailed into the reef and were secured still further by
+the aid of tow bolts, each one and a half inches in diameter, which were
+passed through the stone and sunk deeply into the rock below....
+
+The tower has eight floors, exclusive of the entrance; there are two oil
+rooms, one above the other, holding 4,300 gallons of oil, above which is
+a coal and store room, followed by a second storeroom. Outside the tower
+at this level is a crane, by which supplies are hoisted, and which also
+facilitates the landing and embarkation of the keepers, who are swung
+through the air in a stirrup attached to the crane rope. Then, in turn,
+come the living-room, the "low light" room, bedroom, service room, and
+finally the lantern. For the erection of the tower, 2,171 blocks of
+granite, which were previously fitted temporarily in their respective
+positions on shore and none of which weighed less than two tons, were
+used. When the work was commenced, the engineer estimated that the task
+would occupy five years, but on May 18, 1882, the lamp was lighted by
+the Duke of Edinburgh, the Master of Trinity House at the time, the
+enterprise having occupied only four years. Some idea may thus be
+obtained of the energy with which the labor was prest forward, once the
+most trying sections were overcome....
+
+When the new tower was completed and brought into service, the Smeaton
+building was demolished. This task was carried out with extreme care,
+inasmuch as the citizens of Plymouth had requested that the historic
+Eddystone structure might be erected on Plymouth Hoe, on the spot
+occupied by the existing Trinity House landmark. The authorities agreed
+to this proposal, and the ownership of the Smeaton tower was forthwith
+transferred to the people of Plymouth. But demolition was carried out
+only to the level of Smeaton's lower storeroom. The staircase, well, and
+entrance were filled up with masonry, the top was beveled off, and in
+the center of the stump an iron pole was planted. While the Plymouth Hoe
+relic is but one-half of the tower, its reerection was completed
+faithfully, and, moreover, carries the original candelabra which the
+famous engineer devised.
+
+Not only is the Douglass tower a beautiful example of lighthouse
+engineering, but it was relatively cheap. The engineer, when he prepared
+the designs, estimated that an outlay of £78,000, or $390,000, would be
+incurred. As a matter of fact, the building cost only £59,255, or
+$296,275, and a saving of £18,000, or $90,000, in a work of this
+magnitude is no mean achievement. All things considered, the Eddystone
+is one of the cheapest sea-rock lights which has ever been consummated.
+
+
+
+THE CAPITAL OF THE BRITISH, SAXON AND NORMAN KINGS [Footnote: From
+"Visits to Remarkable Places."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT
+
+What an interesting old city is Winchester! and how few people are aware
+of it! The ancient capital of the kingdom--the capital of the British,
+and the Saxon, and the Norman kings--the favorite resort of our kings
+and queens, even till the revolution of 1688; the capital which, for
+ages, maintained a proud, and long a triumphant, rivalry with London
+itself; the capital which once boasted upward of ninety churches and
+chapels, whose meanest houses now stand upon the foundations of noble
+palaces and magnificent monasteries; and in whose ruins or in whose yet
+superb minster lie enshrined the bones of mighty kings, and fair and
+pious queens; of lordly abbots and prelates, who in their day swayed not
+merely the destinies of this one city, but of the kingdom. There she
+sits--a sad, discrowned queen, and how few are acquainted with her in
+the solitude of her desertion! Yet where is the place, saving London
+itself, which can compete with her in solemn and deep interest? Where is
+the city, except that, in Great Britain, which can show so many objects
+of antique beauty, or call up so many national recollections?
+
+Here lie the bones of Alfred--here he was probably born, for this was at
+that time the court and the residence of his parents. Here, at all
+events, he spent his infancy and the greater portion of his youth. Here
+he imbibed the wisdom and the magnanimity of mind with which he
+afterward laid the foundations of our monarchy, our laws, liberties and
+literature, and in a word, of our national greatness.
+
+Hence Alfred went forth to fight those battles which freed his country
+from the savage Dane; and, having done more for his realm and race than
+ever monarch did before or since, here he lay down, in the strength of
+his years, and consigned his tomb as a place of grateful veneration to a
+people whose future greatness even his sagacious spirit could not be
+prophetic enough to foresee.
+
+Were it only for the memory and tomb of this great king, Winchester
+ought to be visited by every Englishman with the most profound
+veneration and affection; but here also lie the ashes of nearly all
+Alfred's family and kin: his father Ethelwolf, who saw the virtues and
+talents, and prognosticated the greatness of his son; his noble-minded
+mother, who breathed into his infant heart the most sublime sentiments;
+his royal brothers, and his sons and daughters. Here also repose Canute,
+who gave that immortal reproof on the Southampton shore to his
+sycophantic courtiers, and his celebrated queen Emma, so famous at once
+for her beauty and her trials. Here is still seen the tomb of Rufus, who
+was brought hither in a charcoal-burner's cart from the New Forest,
+where the chance arrow of Tyrrel, avenged, in his last hunt, the
+cruelties of himself and his father on that ground....
+
+Historians claim a high antiquity for Winchester as the Caer Gwent of
+the Celtic and Belgic Britons, the Venta Belgarum of the Romans, and the
+Wintanceaster of the Saxons. The history of Winchester is nearly coeval
+with the Christian era. Julius Caesar does not seem to have been here,
+in his invasion of Britain, but some of his troops must have passed
+through it; a plate from one of his standards, bearing his name and
+profile, having been found deep buried in a sand bed in this
+neighborhood; and here, within the first half century of Christendom,
+figured the brave descendants of Cassivelaunus, those noble sons of
+Cunobelin or Cymbeline, Guiderius and Arviragus, whom Shakespeare has so
+beautifully presented to us in his "Cymbeline." ...
+
+Here it was that, while Caractacus himself reigned, the fate of the
+brave Queen Boadicea was sealed. Stung to the quick with the insults she
+had received from the Romans, this noble queen of the Iceni, the Bonduca
+of some writers, and the Boo Tika of her own coins, had sworn to root
+out the Roman power from this country. Had she succeeded, Caractacus
+himself had probably fallen, nor had there ever been a king Lucius here.
+She came, breathing utter extermination to every thing Roman or of Roman
+alliance, at the head of 230,000 barbarians, the most numerous army then
+ever collected by any British prince. Already had she visited and laid
+in ashes Camulodunum, London, and Verulam, killing every Roman and every
+Roman ally to the amount of 70,000 souls. But in this neighborhood she
+was met by the Roman general Paulinus, and her army routed, with the
+slaughter of 80,000 of her followers. In her despair at this
+catastrophe, she destroyed herself, and instead of entering the city in
+triumph was brought in, a breathless corpse, for burial.
+
+Henry III. was born here, and always bore the name of Henry of
+Winchester; Henry IV. here married Joan of Brittany; Henry VI. came
+often hither, his first visit being to study the discipline of Wykeham's
+College as a model for his new one at Eton, to supply students to King's
+College, Cambridge, as Wykeham's does to his foundation of New College,
+Oxford; and happy had it been for this unfortunate monarch had he been a
+simple monk in one of the monasteries of a city which he so loved,
+enjoying peace, learning and piety, having bitterly to learn:
+
+  "That all the rest is held at such a rate
+  As brings a thousand-fold more care to keep
+  Than in possession any jot of pleasure."
+
+Henry VIII. made a visit with the Emperor Charles V., and stayed a week
+examining its various antiquities and religious institutions; but he
+afterward visited them in a more sweeping manner by the suppression of
+its monasteries, chantries, etc., so that, says Milner, "these being
+dissolved, and the edifices themselves soon after pulled down, or
+falling to decay, it must have worn the appearance of a city sacked by a
+hostile army." Through his reign and that of Edward VI., the destruction
+of the religious houses, and the stripping of the churches, went on to a
+degree which must have rendered Winchester an object of ghastly change
+and desolation.
+
+"Then," says Milner, "were the precious and curious monuments of piety
+and antiquity, the presents of Egbert and Ethelwolph, Canute, and Emma,
+unrelentingly rifled and east into the melting-pot for the mere value of
+the metal which composed them. Then were the golden tabernacles and
+images of the Apostles snatched from the cathedral and other altars,"
+and not a few of the less valuable sort of these sacred implements were
+to be seen when he wrote (1798), and probably are now, in many private
+houses of this city and neighborhood.
+
+The later history of this fine old city is chiefly that of melancholy
+and havoc. A royal marriage should be a gay thing; but the marriage of
+Bloody Mary here to Philip of Spain awakes no great delight in an
+English heart. Here, through her reign and that of Elizabeth, the chief
+events were persecutions for religion. James I. made Winchester the
+scene of the disgraceful trials of Sir Walter Raleigh, Lords Cobham and
+Grey, and their assumed accomplices--trials in which that most vain and
+pedantic of tyrants attempted, on the ground of pretended conspiracies,
+to wreak his personal spite on some of the best spirits of England.
+
+
+
+VI
+
+SCOTLAND
+
+
+
+EDINBURGH [Footnote: From "Picturesque Notes on Edinburgh."]
+
+BY ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON
+
+Venice, it has been said, differs from all other cities in the sentiment
+which she inspires. The rest may have admirers; she only, a famous fair
+one, counts lovers in her train. And, indeed, even by her kindest
+friends, Edinburgh is not considered in a similar sense. These like her
+for many reasons, not any one of which is satisfactory in itself. They
+like her whimsically, if you will, and somewhat as a virtuoso dotes upon
+his cabinet. Her attraction is romantic in the narrowest meaning of the
+term. Beautiful as she is, she is not so much beautiful as interesting.
+She is preeminently Gothic, and all the more so since she has set
+herself off with some Greek airs, and erected classic temples on her
+crags. In a word, and above all, she is a curiosity.
+
+The palace of Holyrood has been left aside--in the growth of Edinburgh,
+and stands gray and silent in a workman's quarter and among breweries
+and gas-works. It is a house of many memories. Great people of yore,
+kings and queens, buffoons and grave ambassadors, played their stately
+farce for centuries in Holyrood. Wars have been plotted, dancing has
+lasted deep into the night, murder has been done in its chambers. There
+Prince Charlie held his fantom levées, and in a very gallant manner
+represented a fallen dynasty for some hours. Now, all these things of
+clay are mingled with the dust, the king's crown itself is shown for
+sixpence to the vulgar; but the stone palace has outlived these changes.
+For fifty weeks together, it is no more than a show for tourists and a
+museum of old furniture; but on the fifty-first, behold the palace
+reawakened and mimicking its past.
+
+The Lord Commissioner, a kind of stage sovereign, sits among stage
+courtiers; a coach and six and clattering escort come and go before the
+gate; at night, the windows are lighted up, and its near neighbors, the
+workmen, may dance in their own houses to the palace music. And in this
+the palace is typical. There is a spark among the embers; from time to
+time the old volcano smokes. Edinburgh has but partly abdicated, and
+still wears, in parody, her metropolitan trappings. Half a capital and
+half a country town, the whole city leads a double existence; it has
+long trances of the one and flashes of the other; like the king of the
+Black Isles, it is half alive and half a monumental marble. There are
+armed men and cannon in the citadel overhead; you may see the troops
+marshaled on the high parade; and at night after the early winter
+even-fall, and in the morning before the laggard winter dawn, the wind
+carries abroad over Edinburgh the sound of drums and bugles. Grave
+judges sit bewigged in what was once the scene of imperial
+deliberations. Close by, in the High Street perhaps, the trumpets may
+sound about the stroke of noon; and you see a troop of citizens in
+tawdry masquerade; tabard above, heather-mixture trouser below, and the
+men themselves trudging in the mud among unsympathetic bystanders. The
+grooms of a well-appointed circus tread the streets with a better
+presence. And yet these are the Heralds and Pursuivants of Scotland, who
+are about to proclaim a new law of the United Kingdom before two score
+boys, and thieves, and hackney coachmen.
+
+Meanwhile, every hour the bell of the University rings out over the hum
+of the streets, and every hour a double tide of students, coming and
+going, fills the deep archways. And, lastly, one night in the
+springtime--or, say, one morning rather, at the peep of day--late folk
+may hear the voices of many men singing a psalm in unison from a church
+on one side of the Old High Street; and a little after, or perhaps a
+little before, the sound of many men singing a psalm in unison from
+another church on the opposite side of the way. There will be something
+in the words about the dew of Hermon, and how goodly it is to see
+brethren dwelling together in unity. And the late folk will tell
+themselves that all this singing denotes the conclusion of two yearly
+ecclesiastical parliaments--the parliaments of churches, which are
+brothers in many admirable virtues, but not specially like brothers in
+this particular of a tolerant and peaceful life.
+
+Again, meditative people will find a charm in a certain consonancy
+between the aspect of the city and its odd and stirring history. Few
+places, if any, offer a more barbaric display of contrasts to the eye.
+In the very midst stands one of the most satisfactory crags in nature--a
+Bass Rock upon dry land, rooted in a garden shaken by passing trains,
+carrying a crown of battlements and turrets, and describing its warlike
+shadow over the liveliest and brightest thoroughfare of the New Town.
+From their smoky beehives, ten stories high, the unwashed look down upon
+the open squares and gardens of the wealthy; and gay people sunning
+themselves along Prince's Street, with its mile of commercial palaces
+all beflagged upon some great occasion, see, across a gardened valley
+set with statues, where the washings of the Old Town flutter in the
+breeze at its high windows.
+
+And then, upon all sides, what a clashing of architecture! In this one
+valley, where the life of the town goes most busily forward, there may
+be seen, shown one above and behind another by the accidents of the
+ground, buildings in almost every style upon the globe. Egyptian and
+Greek temples, Venetian palaces and Gothic spires, are huddled one over
+another in a most admired disorder; while, above all, the brute mass of
+the Castle and the summit of Arthur's Seat look down upon these
+imitations with a becoming dignity, as the works of Nature may look down
+upon the monuments of Art. But Nature is a more indiscriminate patroness
+than we imagine, and in no way frightened of a strong effect. The birds
+roost as willingly among the Corinthian capitals as in the crannies of
+the crag; the same atmosphere and daylight clothe the eternal rock and
+yesterday's imitation portico; and as the soft northern sunshine throws
+out everything into a glorified distinctness--or easterly mists, coming
+up with the blue evening, fuse all these incongruous features into one,
+and the lamps begin to glitter along the street, and faint lights to
+burn in the high windows across the valley--the feeling grows upon you
+that this is a piece of nature in the most intimate sense; that this
+profusion of eccentricities, this dream in masonry and living rock, is
+not a drop-scene in a theater, but a city in the world of everyday
+reality, connected by railway and telegraph wire with all the capitals
+of Europe, and inhabited by citizens of the familiar type, who keep
+ledgers, and attend church, and have sold their immortal portion to a
+daily paper....
+
+The east of new Edinburgh is guarded by a craggy hill, of no great
+elevation, which the town embraces. The old London road runs on one side
+of it; while the New Approach, leaving it on the other hand, completes
+the circuit.... Of all places for a view, this Calton Hill is perhaps
+the best; since you can see the Castle, which you lose from the Castle,
+and Arthur's Seat, which you can not see from Arthur's Seat. It is the
+place to stroll on one of those days of sunshine and east wind which are
+so common in our more than temperate summer. The breeze comes off the
+sea, with a little of the freshness, and that touch of chill, peculiar
+to the quarter, which is delightful to certain very ruddy organizations,
+and greatly the reverse to the majority of mankind. It brings with it a
+faint, floating haze, a cunning decolorizer, altho not thick enough to
+obscure outlines near at hand. But the haze lies more thickly to
+windward at the far end of Musselburgh Bay; and over the Links of
+Aberlady and Berwick Law and the hump of the Bass Bock it assumes the
+aspect of a bank of thin sea fog.
+
+Immediately underneath, upon the south, you command the yards of the
+High School, and the towers and courts of the new Jail--a large place,
+castellated to the extent of folly, standing by itself on the edge of a
+steep cliff, and often joyfully hailed by tourists as the Castle. In the
+one, you may perhaps see female prisoners taking exercise like a string
+of nuns; in the other, schoolboys running at play, and their shadows
+keeping step with them. From the bottom of the valley, a gigantic
+chimney rises almost to the level of the eye, a taller and a shapelier
+edifice than Nelson's Monument. Look a little farther, and there is
+Holyrood Palace, with its Gothic frontal and ruined abbey, and the red
+sentry pacing smartly to and fro before the door like a mechanical
+figure in a panorama. By way of an outpost, you can single out the
+little peak-roofed lodge, over which Rizzio's murderers made their
+escape, and where Queen Mary herself, according to gossip, bathed in
+white wine to retain her loveliness.
+
+Behind and overhead lie the Queen's Park, from Musehat's Cairn to
+Dumbiedykes, St. Margaret's Loch, and the long wall of Salisbury's
+Crags; and thence, by knoll and rocky bulwark and precipitous slope, the
+eye rises to the top of Arthur's Seat, a hill for magnitude, a mountain
+in virtue of its bold design. This upon your left. Upon the right, the
+roofs and spires of the Old Town climb one above another to where the
+citadel prints its broad bulk and jagged crown of bastions on the
+western sky.... Perhaps it is now one in the afternoon; and at the same
+instant of time, a ball rises to the summit of Nelson's flagstaff close
+at hand, and, far away, a puff of smoke, followed by a report, bursts
+from the half-moon battery at the Castle. This is the time-gun by which
+people set their watches, as far as the sea coast or in hill farms upon
+the Pent-lands. To complete the view, the eye enfilades Prince's Street,
+black with traffic, and has a broad look over the valley between the Old
+Town and the New; here, full of railway trains and stept over by the
+high North Bridge upon its many columns, and there, green with trees
+and gardens.
+
+On the north, the Calton Hill is neither so abrupt in itself, nor has it
+so exceptional an outlook; and yet even here it commands a striking
+prospect. A gully separates it from the New Town. This is Greenside,
+where witches were burned and tournaments held in former days. Down that
+almost precipitous bank Bothwell launched his horse, and so first, as
+they say, attracted the bright eyes of Mary. It is now tesselated with
+sheets and blankets out to dry, and the sound of people beating carpets
+is rarely absent. Beyond all this, the suburbs run out to Leith; Leith
+camps on the seaside with her forests of masts; Leith roads are full of
+ships at anchor; the sun picks out the white pharos upon Inchkeith
+Island; the Firth extends on either hand from the Ferry to the May; the
+towns of Fifeshire sit, each in its bank of blowing smoke, along the
+opposite coast; and the hills enclose the view, except to the farthest
+east, where the haze of the horizon rests upon the open sea. There lies
+the road to Norway; a dear road for Sir Patrick Spens and his Scots
+Lords; and yonder smoke on the hither side of Largo Law is Aberdour,
+from whence they sailed to seek a queen for Scotland.
+
+These are the main features of the scene roughly sketched. How they are
+all tilted by the inclination of the ground, how each stands out in
+delicate relief against the rest, what manifold detail, and play of sun
+and shadow, animate and accentuate the picture, is a matter for a person
+on the spot, and, turning swiftly on his heels, to grasp and bind
+together in one comprehensive look. It is the character of such a
+prospect, to be full of change and of things moving. The multiplicity
+embarrasses the eye; and the mind, among so much, suffers itself to grow
+absorbed with single points. You remark a tree in a hedgerow, or follow
+a cart along a country road. You turn to the city, and see children,
+dwarfed by distance into pigmies, at play about suburban doorsteps; you
+have a glimpse upon a thoroughfare where people are densely moving; you
+note ridge after ridge of chimney-stacks running downhill one behind
+another, and church spires rising bravely from the sea of roofs. At one
+of the innumerable windows you watch a figure moving; on one of the
+multitude of roofs you watch clambering chimney-sweeps. The wind takes a
+run and scatters the smoke; bells are heard, far and near, faint and
+loud, to tell the hour; or perhaps a sea bird goes dipping evenly over
+the housetops, like a gull across the waves. And here you are in the
+meantime, on this pastoral hillside, among nibbling sheep and looked
+upon by monumental buildings.
+
+
+
+HOLYROOD [Footnote: From "Edinburgh Sketches and Memories."]
+
+BY DAVID MASSON
+
+Mary, Queen of Scots, on her return to Scotland after her thirteen years
+of residence and education in France, had to form her first real
+acquaintance with her native shores and the capital of her realm. She
+had left Calais for the homeward voyage on Thursday, the 14th of August,
+with a retinue of about one hundred and twenty persons, French and
+Scottish, embarked in two French state galleys, attended by several
+transports. They were a goodly company, with rich and splendid baggage.
+The Queen's two most important uncles, indeed--the great Francis de
+Lorraine, Duke of Guise, and his brother, Charles de Lorraine, the
+Cardinal--were not on board. They, with the Duchess of Guise, and other
+senior lords and ladies of the French court, had bidden Mary farewell at
+Calais, after having accompanied her thither from Paris, and after the
+Cardinal had in vain tried to persuade her not to take her costly
+collection of pearls and other jewels with her, but to leave them in his
+keeping till it should be seen how she might fare among her
+Scottish subjects.
+
+But on board the Queen's own galley were three others of Guise or
+Lorraine uncles--the Duc d'Aumale, the Grand Prior, and the Marquis
+d'Elbeuf--with M. Danville, son of the Constable of France, and a number
+of French gentlemen of lower rank, among whom one notes especially young
+Pierre de Bourdeilles, better known afterward in literary history as
+Sieur de Brantōme, and a sprightly and poetic youth from Dauphiné, named
+Chastelard, one of the attendants of M. Danville. With these were mixed
+the Scottish contingent of the Queen's train, her four famous "Marys"
+included--Mary Fleming, Mary Livingstone, Mary Seton, and Mary Beaton.
+They had been her playfellows and little maids of honor long ago, in her
+Scottish childhood; they had accompanied her when she went abroad, and
+had lived with her ever since in France; and they were now returning
+with her, Scoto-French women like herself, and all of about her own age,
+to share her new fortunes....
+
+Then, as now, the buildings that went by the general name of Holyrood
+were distinguishable into two portions. There was the Abbey, now
+represented only by the beautiful and spacious fragment of ruin called
+the Royal Chapel, but then, despite the spoliations to which it had been
+subjected by recent English invasions, still tolerably preserved in its
+integrity as the famous edifice, in early Norman style, which had been
+founded in the twelfth century by David I., and had been enlarged in the
+fifteenth by additions in the later and more florid Gothic. Close by
+this was Holyrood House, or the Palace proper, built in the earlier part
+of the sixteenth century, and chiefly by James IV., to form a distinct
+royal dwelling, and so supersede that occasional accommodation in the
+Abbey itself which had sufficed for Scottish sovereigns before Edinburgh
+was their habitual or capital residence.
+
+One block of this original Holyrood House still remains in the
+two-turreted projection of the present Holyrood which adjoins the ruined
+relic of the Abbey, and which contains the rooms now specially shown as
+"Queen Mary's Apartments." But the present Holyrood, as a whole, is a
+construction of the reign of Charles II., and gives little idea of the
+Palace in which Mary took up her abode in 1561. The two-turreted
+projection on the left was not balanced then, as now, by a similar
+two-turreted projection on the right, with a faēade of less height
+between, but was flanked on the right by a continued chateau-like
+frontage, of about the same height as the turreted projections, and at a
+uniform depth of recess from it, but independently garnished with towers
+and pinnacles. The main entrance into the Palace from the great outer
+courtyard was through this chateau-like flank, just about the spot where
+there is the entrance through the present middle faēade; and this
+entrance led, like the present, into an inner court or quadrangle, built
+round on all the four sides.
+
+That quadrangle of chateau, touching the Abbey to the back from its
+northeastern corner, and with the two-turreted projection to its front
+from its northwestern corner, constituted, indeed, the main bulk of the
+Palace. There were, however, extensive appurtenances of other buildings
+at the back or at the side farthest from the Abbey, forming minor inner
+courts, while part of that side of the great outer courtyard which faced
+the entrance was occupied by offices belonging to the Palace, and
+separating the courtyard from the adjacent purlieus of the town. For the
+grounds of both Palace and Abbey were encompassed by a wall, having
+gates at various points of its circuit, the principal and most strongly
+guarded of which was the Gothic porch admitting from the foot of the
+Canongate into the front courtyard. The grounds so enclosed were ample
+enough to contain gardens and spaces of plantation, besides the
+buildings and their courts. Altogether, what with the buildings
+themselves, what with the courts and gardens, and what with the natural
+grandeur of the site--a level of deep and wooded park, between the
+Calton heights and crags, on the one hand, and the towering shoulders of
+Arthur's Seat and precipitous escarpment of Salisbury Crags on the
+other--Holyrood in 1561 must have seemed, even to an eye the most
+satiated with palatial splendors abroad, a sufficiently impressive
+dwelling-place to be the metropolitan home of Scottish royalty.
+
+
+
+LINLITHGOW [Footnote: From "Provincial Antiquities of Scotland."]
+
+BY SIR WALTER SCOTT
+
+The convenience afforded for the sport of falconry, which was so great a
+favorite during the feudal ages, was probably one cause of an attachment
+of the ancient Scottish monarchs to Linlithgow and its fine lake. The
+sport of hunting was also followed with success in the neighborhood,
+from which circumstance it probably arises that the ancient arms of the
+city represent a black greyhound bitch tied to a tree....
+
+A Celt, according to Chalmers, might plausibly derive the name of
+Linlithgow from Lin-liah-cu, the Lake of the Greyhound. Chalmers himself
+seems to prefer the Gothic derivation of Lin-lyth-gow, or the Lake of
+the Great Vale. The Castle of Linlithgow is only mentioned as being a
+peel (a pile, that is, an embattled tower surrounded by an outwork). In
+1300 it was rebuilt or repaired by Edward I., and used as one of the
+citadels by which he hoped to maintain his usurped dominion in Scotland.
+It is described by Barbour as "meihle and stark and stuffed weel." Piers
+Luband, a Gascoigne knight, was appointed the keeper, and appears to
+have remained there until the autumn of 1313, when the Scots recovered
+the Castle....
+
+Bruce, faithful to his usual policy, caused the peel of Linlithgow to be
+dismantled, and worthily rewarded William Binnock, who had behaved with
+such gallantry on the occasion. From this bold yeoman the Binnies of
+West Lothian are proud to trace their descent; and most, if not all of
+them, bear in their arms something connected with the wagon, which was
+the instrument of his stratagem.
+
+When times of comparative peace returned, Linlithgow again became the
+occasional residence of the sovereign. In 1411 the town was burned by
+accident, and in 1414 was again subjected to the same calamity, together
+with the Church and Palace of the king, as is expressly mentioned by
+Bower. The present Church, which is a fine specimen of Gothic
+architecture, having a steeple surmounted by an imperial crown, was
+probably erected soon after the calamity.
+
+The Palace arose from its ashes with greater splendor than before; for
+the family of Stuart, unhappy in some respects, were all of them
+fortunate in their taste for the fine arts, and particularly for that of
+architecture. The Lordship of Linlithgow was settled as a dowry upon
+Mary of Gueldres in 1449, and again upon Margaret of Denmark in 1468.
+
+James IV., a splendid gallant, seems to have founded the most
+magnificent part of Linlithgow Palace; together with the noble entrance
+betwixt two flanking towers bearing, on rich entablatures, the royal
+arms of Scotland, with the collars of the Orders of the Thistle, Garter,
+and Saint Michael. James IV. also erected in the Church a throne for
+himself, and twelve stalls for Knights Companions of the Thistle.... His
+death and the rout of his army clouded for many a day the glory of
+Scotland, and marred the mirth of her palaces.
+
+James V. was much attached to Linlithgow, and added to the Palace both
+the Chapel and Parliament Hall, the last of which is peculiarly
+striking. So that when he brought his bride, Mary of Guise, there, amid
+the festivities which accompanied their wedding, she might have had more
+reason than mere complaisance for highly commending the edifice, and
+saying that she never saw a more princely palace. It was long her
+residence, and that of her royal husband, at Linlithgow. Mary was born
+there in an apartment still shown; and the ill-fated father, dying
+within a few days of that event, left the ominous diadem which he wore
+to the still more unfortunate infant....
+
+In the subsequent reign of Queen Mary, Linlithgow was the scene of
+several remarkable events; the most interesting of which was the
+assassination of the Regent Murray by Hamilton of Bothwell-haugh. James
+VI. loved the royal residence of Linlithgow, and completed the original
+plan of the Palace, closing the great square by a stately range of
+apartments of great architectural beauty. He also made a magnificent
+fountain in the Palace yard, now ruinous, as are all the buildings
+around. Another grotesque Gothic fountain adorns the street of
+the town....
+
+When the scepter passed from Scotland, oblivion sat down in the halls of
+Linlithgow; but her absolute desolation was reserved for the memorable
+era of 1745-6. About the middle of January in that year, General Hawley
+marched at the head of a strong army to raise the siege of Stirling,
+then prest by the Highland insurgents under the adventurous Charles
+Edward. The English general had exprest considerable contempt of his
+enemy, who, he affirmed, would not stand a charge of cavalry. On the
+night of the 17th he returned to Linlithgow, with all the marks of
+defeat, having burned his tents, and left his artillery and baggage. His
+disordered troops were quartered in the Palace, and began to make such
+great fires on the hearth, as to endanger the safety of the edifice. A
+lady of the Livingstone family who had apartments there remonstrated
+with General Hawley, who treated her fears with contempt. "I can run
+away from fire as fast as you can, General," answered the high-spirited
+dame, and with this sarcasm took horse for Edinburgh. Very soon after
+her departure her apprehensions were realized; the Palace of Linlithgow
+caught fire and was burned to the ground. The ruins alone remain to show
+its former splendor.
+
+The situation of Linlithgow Palace is eminently beautiful. It stands on
+a promontory of some elevation, which advances almost into the midst of
+the lake. The form is that of a square court, composed of buildings of
+four stories high, with towers at the angles. The fronts within the
+square, and the windows, are highly ornamented, and the size of the
+rooms, as well as the width and character of the staircase, are upon a
+magnificent scale. One banquet room is 94 feet long, 30 feet wide, and
+33 feet high, with a gallery for music. The king's wardrobe, or
+dressing-room, looking to the west, projects over the walls so as to
+have a delicious prospect on three sides, and is one of the most
+enviable boudoirs we have ever seen.
+
+There were two main entrances to Linlithgow Palace. That from the south
+ascends rather steeply from the town, and passes through a striking
+Gothic archway, flanked by two round towers. The portal has been richly
+adorned by sculpture, in which can be traced the arms of Scotland with
+the collars of the Thistle, the Garter, and Saint Michael. This was the
+work of James V., and is of a most beautiful character.
+
+The other entrance is from the eastward. The gateway is at some height
+from the foundation of the wall, and there are opposite to it the
+remains of a perron, or ramp of mason work, which those who desired to
+enter must have ascended by steps. A drawbridge, which could be raised
+at pleasure, united, when it was lowered, the ramp with the threshold of
+the gateway, and when raised left a gap between them, which answered the
+purpose of a moat. On the inside of the eastern gateway is a figure,
+much mutilated, said to have been that of Pope Julius II., the same
+Pontiff who sent to James IV. the beautiful sword which makes part of
+the Regalia.
+
+"To what base offices we may return!" In the course of the last war,
+those beautiful remains, so full of ancient remembrances, very narrowly
+escaped being defaced and dishonored, by an attempt to convert them into
+barracks for French prisoners of war. The late President Blair, as
+zealous a patriot as he was an excellent lawyer, had the merit of
+averting this insult upon one of the most striking objects of antiquity
+which Scotland yet affords. I am happy to add that of late years the
+Court of Exchequer have, in this and similar cases, shown much zeal to
+preserve our national antiquities, and stop the dilapidations which were
+fast consuming them.
+
+In coming to Linlithgow by the Edinburgh road, the first view of the
+town, with its beautiful steeple, surmounted with a royal crown, and the
+ruinous towers of the Palace arising out of a canopy of trees, forms a
+most impressive object.
+
+
+
+STIRLING [Footnote: From "English Note-Books." By special arrangement
+with, and by permission of, the publishers, Houghton, Mifflin Co.
+Copyright, 1870 and 1898.]
+
+BY NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE
+
+In the morning we were stirring betimes, and found Stirling to be a
+pretty large town, of rather ancient aspect, with many gray stone
+houses, the gables of which are notched on either side, like a flight of
+stairs. The town stands on the slope of a hill, at the summit of which,
+crowning a long ascent, up which the paved street reaches all the way to
+its gate, is Stirling Castle. Of course we went thither, and found free
+entrance, altho the castle is garrisoned by five or six hundred men,
+among whom are bare-legged Highlanders (I must say that this costume is
+very fine and becoming, tho their thighs did look blue and frost-bitten)
+and also some soldiers of other Scotch regiments, with tartan trousers.
+Almost immediately on passing the gate, we found an old artillery-man,
+who undertook to show us round the castle. Only a small portion of it
+seems to be of great antiquity. The principal edifice within the castle
+wall is a palace, that was either built or renewed by James VI.; and it
+is ornamented with strange old statues, one of which is his own.
+
+The old Scottish Parliament House is also here. The most ancient part of
+the castle is the tower, where one of the Earls of Douglas was stabbed
+by a king, and afterward thrown out of the window. In reading this
+story, one imagines a lofty turret, and the dead man tumbling headlong
+from a great height; but, in reality, the window is not more than
+fifteen or twenty feet from the garden into which he fell. This part of
+the castle was burned last autumn; but is now under repair, and the wall
+of the tower is still stanch and strong. We went up into the chamber
+where the murder took place, and looked through the historic window.
+
+Then we mounted the castle wall, where it broods over a precipice of
+many hundred feet perpendicular, looking down upon a level plain below,
+and forth upon a landscape, every foot of which is richly studded with
+historic events. There is a small peep-hole in the wall, which Queen
+Mary is said to have been in the habit of looking through. It is a most
+splendid view; in the distance, the blue Highlands, with a variety of
+mountain outlines that I could have studied unweariably; and in another
+direction, beginning almost at the foot of the Castle Hill, were the
+Links of Forth, where, over a plain of miles in extent the river
+meandered, and circled about, and returned upon itself again and again
+and again, as if knotted into a silver chain, which it was difficult to
+imagine to be all one stream. The history of Scotland might be read from
+this castle wall, as on a book of mighty page; for here, within the
+compass of a few miles, we see the field where Wallace won the battle of
+Stirling, and likewise the battle-field of Bannockburn, and that of
+Falkirk, and Sheriffmuir, and I know not how many besides.
+
+Around the Castle Hill there is a walk, with seats for old and infirm
+persons, at points sheltered from the wind. We followed it downward, and
+I think we passed over the site where the games used to be held, and
+where, this morning, some of the soldiers of the garrison were going
+through their exercises. I ought to have mentioned, that, passing
+through the inner gateway of the castle, we saw the round tower, and
+glanced into the dungeon, where the Roderic Dhu of Scott's poem was left
+to die. It is one of the two round towers, between which the portcullis
+rose and fell.
+
+
+
+ABBOTSFORD [Footnote: From "Homes and Haunts of the Most Eminent British
+Poets."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT
+
+Abbotsford, after twenty years' interval, and having then been seen
+under the doubly exaggerated influence of youth and the recent influence
+of Scott's poetry, in some degree disappointed me. I had imagined the
+house itself larger, its towers more lofty, its whole exterior more
+imposing. The plantations are a good deal grown, and almost bury the
+house from the distant view, but they still preserve all their formality
+of outline, as seen from the Galashiels road. Every field has a thick,
+black belt of fir-trees, which run about, forming on the long hillside
+the most fantastic figures. The house is, however, a very interesting
+house. At first, you come to the front next to the road, which you do by
+a steep descent down the plantation. You are struck, having a great
+castle in your imagination, with the smallness of the place. It is
+neither large nor lofty. Your ideal Gothic castle shrinks into a
+miniature. The house is quite hidden till you are at it, and then you
+find yourself at a small, castellated gateway, with its crosses cut into
+the stone pillars on each side, and the little window over it, as for
+the warden to look out at you.
+
+Then comes the view of this side of the house with its portico, its bay
+windows with painted glass, its tall, battlemented gables, and turrets
+with their lantern terminations; the armorial escutcheon over the door,
+and the corbels, and then another escutcheon aloft on the wall of stars
+and crescents. All these have a good effect; and not less so the light
+screen of freestone finely worked and carved with its elliptic arches
+and iron lattice-work, through which the garden is seen with its
+espalier trees, high brick walls, and greenhouse, with a doorway at the
+end leading into a second garden of the same sort. The house has a dark
+look, being built of the native whinstone, or grau-wacke, as the Germans
+call it, relieved by the quoins and projections of the windows and
+turrets in freestone. All look classic, and not too large for the poet
+and antiquarian builder. The dog Maida lies in stone on the right hand
+of the door in the court, with the well known inscription. The house can
+neither be said to be Gothic nor castellated. It is a combination of the
+poet's, drawn from many sources, but all united by good taste, and
+forming an unique style, more approaching the Elizabethan than
+any other.
+
+Round the court, of which the open-work screen just mentioned is the
+farther boundary, runs a covered walk, that is, along the two sides not
+occupied by the house and the screen; and in the wall beneath the arcade
+thus formed, are numerous niches, containing a medley of old figures
+brought from various places. There are Indian gods, old figures out of
+churches, and heads of Roman emperors. In the corner of the court, on
+the opposite side of the portico to the dog Maida, is a fountain, with
+some similar relics reared on the stonework around it.
+
+The other front gives you a much greater idea of the size. It has a more
+continuous range of faēade. Here, at one end, is Scott's square tower,
+ascended by outside steps, and a round or octagon tower at the other;
+you can not tell, certainly, which shape it is, as it is covered with
+ivy. On this the flagstaff stands. At the end next to the square tower,
+i. e., at the right-hand end as you face it, you pass into the outer
+court, which allows you to go around the end of the house from one front
+to the other, by the old gateway, which once belonged to the Tolbooth of
+Edinburgh. Along the whole of this front runs a gallery, in which the
+piper used to stalk to and fro while they were at dinner. This man still
+comes about the place, tho he has been long discharged. He is a
+great vagabond.
+
+Such is the exterior of Abbotsford. The interior is far more
+interesting. The porch, copied from that of the old palace of
+Linlithgow, is finely groined, and there are stags' horns nailed up in
+it. When the door opens, you find yourself in the entrance-hall, which
+is, in fact, a complete museum of antiquities and other matters. It is,
+as described in Lockhart's Life of Scott, wainscoted with old wainscot
+from the kirk of Dumfermline, and the pulpit of John Knox is cut in two,
+and placed as chiffoniers between the windows. The whole walls are
+covered with suits of armor and arms, horns of moose deer, the head of a
+musk bull, etc. At your left hand, and close to the door, are two
+cuirasses, some standards, eagles, etc., collected at Waterloo.
+
+At the opposite end of the room are two full suits of armor, one
+Italian, and one English of the time of Henry V., the latter holding in
+its hands a stupendous two-handed sword, I suppose six feet long, and
+said to have been found on Bosworth field. Opposite to the door is the
+fireplace of freestone, imitated from an arch in the cloister at
+Melrose, with a peculiarly graceful spandrel. In it stands the iron
+grate of Archbishop Sharpe, who was murdered by the Covenanters; and
+before it stands a most massive Roman camp-kettle. On the roof, at the
+center of the pointed arches, runs a row of escutcheons of Scott's
+family, two or three at one end being empty, the poet not being able to
+trace the maternal lineage so high as the paternal. These were painted
+accordingly in clouds, with the motto, "Night veils the deep." Around
+the door at one end are emblazoned the shields of his most intimate
+friends, as Erskine, Moritt, Rose, etc., and all around the cornice ran
+the emblazoned shields of the old chieftains of the border....
+
+Then there is the library, a noble room, with a fine cedar ceiling, with
+beautiful compartments, and most lovely carved pendants, where you see
+bunches of grapes, human figures, leaves, etc. It is copied from Rosslyn
+or Melrose. There are three busts in this room; the first, one of Sir
+Walter, by Chantrey; one of Wordsworth; and in the great bay window, on
+a table, a cast of that of Shakespeare, from Stratford. There is a
+full-length painting of the poet's son, the present Sir Walter, in his
+hussar uniform, with, his horse. The work-table in the space of the bay
+window, and the fine carved ceiling in this part of the room, as well as
+the brass hanging lamp brought from Hereulaneum, are particularly worthy
+of notice. There is a pair of most splendidly carved box-wood chairs,
+brought from Italy, and once belonging to some cardinal. The other
+chairs are of ebony, presented by George IV. There is a tall silver urn,
+standing on a prophyry table, filled with bones from the Piraeus, and
+inscribed as the gift of Lord Byron. The books in this room, many of
+which are secured from hurt by wire-work doors are said to amount to
+twenty thousand. Many, of course, are very valuable, having been
+collected with great care by Scott, for the purpose of enabling him to
+write his different works....
+
+The armory is a most remarkable room; it is the collection of the author
+of Waverly; and to enumerate all the articles which are here assembled,
+would require a volume. Take a few particulars. The old wooden lock of
+the Tolbooth of Selkirk; Queen Mary's offering-box, a small iron ark or
+coffer, with a circular lid, found in Holyrood-house. Then Hofer's
+rifle--a short, stout gun, given him by Sir Humphry Davy, or rather by
+Hofer's widow to Sir Humphry for Sir Walter. The housekeeper said, that
+Sir Humphry had done some service for the widow of Hofer, and in her
+gratitude she offered him this precious relic, which he accepted for Sir
+Walter, and delighted the poor woman with the certainty that it would be
+preserved to posterity in such a place as Abbotsford. There is an old
+white hat, worn by the burgesses of Stowe when installed. Rob Roy's
+purse and his gun; a very long one, with the initials R. M. C., Robert
+Macgregor Campbell, around the touch-hole. A rich sword in a silver
+sheath, presented to Sir Walter by the people of Edinburgh, for the
+pains he took when George IV. was there....
+
+Lastly, and on our way back to the entrance-hall, we enter the
+writing-room of Sir Walter, which is surrounded by book-shelves, and a
+gallery, by which Scott not only could get at his books, but by which he
+could get to and from his bedroom; and so be at work when his visitors
+thought him in bed. He had only to lock his door, and he was safe. Here
+are his easy leathern chair and desk, at which he used to work, and, in
+a little closet, is the last suit that he ever wore--a bottle-green
+coat, plaid waistcoat, of small pattern, gray plaid trousers, and white
+hat. Near these hang his walking-stick, and his boots and walking-shoes.
+Here are, also, his tools, with which he used to prune his trees in the
+plantations, and his yeoman-cavalry accouterments. On the chimney-piece
+stands a German light-machine, where he used to get a light, and light
+his own fire. There is a chair made of the wood of the house at
+Robroyston, in which William Wallace was betrayed; having a brass plate
+in the back, stating that it is from this house, where "Wallace was done
+to death by Traitors." The writing-room is connected with the library,
+and this little closet had a door issuing into the garden; so that Scott
+had all his books at immediate command, and could not only work early
+and late, without anybody's knowledge, but, at will, slip away to wood
+and field, if he pleased, unobserved.
+
+
+
+DRYBURGH ABBEY [Footnote: From "The Ruined Abbeys of the Border."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT
+
+Dryburgh lies amid the scenes in which Scott not only took such peculiar
+delight, but which furnished him themes both for his poems and romances,
+and which were rich in those old songs and narratives of border feats
+and raids which he has preserved in his Border Minstrelsy. Melrose, the
+Eildon Hills, the haunt of Thomas of Ercildoune, Jedburgh, Yetholm, the
+Cowdenknowes, the Yarrow, and Ettrick, all lie on different sides within
+a circle of twenty miles, and most of them much nearer. Smailholme
+Tower, the scene of some of Scott's youthful days, and of his ballad of
+"The Eve of St. John," is also one of these. Grose tells us that "The
+ruins of Dryburgh Monastery are beautifully situated on a peninsula
+formed by the Tweed, ten-miles above Kelso, and three below Melrose, on
+the southwestern confine of the county of Berwick." ...
+
+The new Abbey of Dryburgh had the credit of being founded in 1150 by
+David I., who was fond of the reputation, of being a founder of abbeys,
+Holyrood Abbey, Melrose Abbey, Kelso Abbey, Jedburgh Abbey, and others,
+having David I. stated as their founder. However it might be in other
+cases, and in some of them he was merely the restorer, the real founders
+of Dryburgh were Hugh de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale, and Constable of
+Scotland, and his wife, Beatrice de Beauchamp....
+
+Edward II., in his invasion of Scotland in 1323, burned down Dryburgh
+Abbey, as he had done that of Melrose in the preceding year; and both
+these magnificent houses were restored principally at the cost of Robert
+Bruce. It was again destroyed by the English in 1544, by Sir George
+Bowes and Sir Brian Latoum, as Melrose was also. Among the most
+distinguished of its abbots we may mention Andrew Fordum, Bishop of
+Moray, and afterward Archbishop of St. Andrews, and Ambassador to
+France, and who held some of the most important offices under James IV.
+and James V. The favors conferred upon him were in proportion to his
+consequence in the state. Along with this abbey of Dryburgh, he held in
+commendam those of Pittenweem, Coldingham, and Dunfermline. He resigned
+Dryburgh to James Ogilvie, of the family of Deskford. Ogilvie was also
+considerably employed in offices of diplomacy, both at London and Paris.
+
+The Erskines seemed to keep firm hold of the Abbey of Dryburgh; and Adam
+Erskine, one of Abbot James's successors, was, under George Buchanan, a
+sub-preceptor to James VI. This James I. of England dissolved the abbey
+in 1604, and conferred it and its lands, together with the abbeys and
+estates of Cambuskenneth and Inehmahorne, on John Erskine, Earl of Mar,
+who was made, on this occasion, also Baron of Cardross, which barony was
+composed of the property of these three monasteries. In this line,
+Dryburgh descended to the Lords of Buchan. The Earls of Buchan, at one
+time, sold it to the Halliburtons of Mortoun, from whom it was purchased
+by Colonel Tod, whose heirs again sold it to the Earl of Buchan in 1786.
+This eccentric nobleman bequeathed it to his son, Sir David Erskine, at
+whose death in 1837 it reverted to the Buchan family.
+
+Two monasteries in Ireland, the abbey of Druin-la-Croix in the County of
+Armagh, and the abbey of Woodburn in the county of Antrim, acknowledged
+Dryburgh as their mother. A copy of the Liber S. Mariae de Dryburgh is
+in the Advocates' Library in Edinburgh, containing all its ancient
+charters. Such are the main points of history connected with Dryburgh;
+but, when we open the ballad lore of the South of Scotland, we find this
+fine old place figuring repeatedly and prominently....
+
+Grose says: "The freestone of which the monastery of Dryburgh and the
+most elegant parts of the Abbey of Melrose were built, is one of a most
+beautiful color and texture, and has defied the influence of the weather
+for more than six centuries; nor is the sharpness of the sculpture in
+the least affected by the ravages of time. The quarry from which it was
+taken is still successfully worked at Dryburgh; and no stone in the
+island seems more perfectly adapted for the purpose of architecture, as
+it hardens by age, and is not subject to be corroded or decomposed by
+the weather, so that it might even be used for the cutting of
+bas-reliefs and of statues." ...
+
+As the remains of the abbey have since been carefully preserved, they
+present still much the same aspect as at Grose's visit in 1797. When I
+visited this lovely ruin and lovely neighborhood in 1845, I walked from
+Melrose, a distance of between three and four miles. Leaving the Eildon
+Hills on my right, and following the course of the Tweed, I saw, as I
+progressed, Cowdenknowes, Bemerside, and other spots famous in border
+song. Issuing from a steep and woody lane, I came out on a broad bend of
+the river, with a wide strand of gravel and stones on this side, showing
+with what force the wintry torrents rushed along here. Opposite rose
+lofty and finely-wooded banks. Amid the trees on that side shone out a
+little temple of the Muses, where they are represented as consecrating
+James Thomson the poet. Farther off, on a hill, stands a gigantic statue
+of William Wallace, which was originally intended for Burns; but, the
+stone being too large, it was thought by the eccentric Lord Buchan, who
+erected it, a pity to cut it down....
+
+I was ferried over by two women, who were by no means sorry that the
+winds and floods had carried my Lord Buchan's bridge away, as it
+restored their business of putting people over. I then ascended a lane
+from the ferry, and found myself in front of an apparently old castle
+gateway; but, from the Latin inscription over it, discovered that it was
+also erected by the same singular Lord Buchan, as the entrance to a
+pomarium, or, in plain English, an orchard, dedicated to his honored
+parents, who, I suppose, like our first parents, were particularly fond
+of apples. That his parents or himself might enjoy all the apples, he
+had under the Latin dedication, placed a simple English menace of steel
+traps and spring guns. I still advanced through a pleasant scene of
+trees and cottages, of rich grassy crofts, with cattle lying luxuriously
+in them, and amid a hush of repose, indicative of a monastic scene.
+
+Having found a guide to the ruins, at a cottage near the river, I was
+led across a young orchard toward them, the two old gables and the fine
+circular window showing themselves above the foliage. I found the
+interior of the ruins carpeted by soft turf, and two rows of cedars
+growing in the church, marking where the aisle formerly ran. The
+cloisters and south transept were still entire, and displayed much fine
+workmanship. The great circular window is especially lovely, formed of
+five stars cut in stone, so that the open center between them forms a
+rose. The light seen through this charming window produced a fine
+effect. The chapter-house was also entire, the floor being now only of
+earth; and a circle was drawn in the center, where the remains of the
+founder and his lady lie. Here, again, however, the fantastic old Lord
+Buchan had interfered, and a statue of Locke, reading an open book, and
+pointing to his own forehead; one of Inigo Jones, and one of Newton,
+made you wonder what they were doing there. So totally without regard to
+fitness did this half-crazy nobleman put down his ornaments. The wonder
+is that his successor had not removed these, and some statues or busts
+which had as little business on the spot.
+
+But the charm of the place in every sense was the grave of Scott. It was
+in the Lady aisle, and occupies two arches of it; and the adjoining
+space under the next arch is the burial place of the Erskines, as
+Scott's burial-place was that of his ancestors, the Halliburtons. The
+whole, with the tier of small sectional Norman arches above, forms a
+glorious tomb much resembling one of the chapel tombs in Winchester
+Cathedral. Taken in connection with the fine ruins, and the finer
+natural scenery around, no spot can be supposed more suitable for the
+resting-place of the remains of the great minstrel and romancer, who so
+delighted in the natural, historic, and legendary charms of the
+neighborhood, and who added still greater ones to them himself.
+
+Since my visit, a massive tomb, of Aberdeen granite, has been placed
+over the remains of Sir Walter and Lady Scott, and those of their eldest
+son. A railway also now makes the place much more accessible, the
+station for Dryburgh being at the village of Newtown, on the other side
+of the river. Near St. Boswell's, opposite to Dryburgh, has also been
+lately erected a bridge over the Tweed, opening up the communication
+betwixt the north and south side of the river, and thus enabling the
+tourist to explore at great convenience the scenes of ancient loves and
+feuds, and the haunts of Scott. Here his dust lies amid the objects
+redolent of his fame; and within a few miles, near Makerstoun, a view
+may he obtained, from a hill, of Smailholme Tower, where the poet passed
+some of the years of his boyhood, and the memory of which he has
+perpetuated in one of the epistles which introduce each Canto
+of Marmion.
+
+
+
+MELROSE ABBEY [Footnote: From "The Ruined Abbeys of the Border."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT.
+
+The foundation of Melrose Abbey generally dates from 1136, when David I.
+of Scotland, among his many similar erections, built a church here. But
+Melrose, as a seat of religion, boasts a much earlier origin. It was one
+of those churches, or more properly missionary stations, which the
+fathers of Ireland and of Iona spread over Britain and the continent. It
+was in fact a portion of that pure and beautiful British church which
+existed prior to the Roman hierarchy in these islands, and of which the
+professors presented in their primitive habits and primitive doctrines
+so apostolic a character....
+
+In 1136 the pious David raised a new and much superior abbey, about two
+miles westward of the original site, but on the same south bank of the
+Tweed, and established in it the Cistercians. He conferred on them
+extensive lands and privileges; the lands of Melrose, Eldun, and
+Dernwie; the lands and wood of Gattonside, with the fishings of the
+Tweed along the whole extent of those lands; with the right of pasturage
+and pannage in his forests of Selkirk and Traguair, and in the forest
+between the Gala and the Leeder, with wood from those forests for
+building and burning. In 1192 Jocelin, Bishop of Glasgow, granted to the
+monks of Melrose the church of Hassindean, with its lands, tithes, and
+other emoluments, "for the maintenance of the poor and of pilgrims
+coming to the house of Melrose." From this cause the old tower of
+Hassindean was called "Monks' Tower," and the farm adjoining the church
+is still called "Monks' Croft." In fact, the Abbey of Melrose was a sort
+of inn, not only to the poor, but to some of the greatest men of the
+time. The Scottish kings from time to time, and wealthy subjects too,
+added fresh grants; so that in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the
+Abbey had accumulated vast possessions and immunities; had many tenants,
+great husbandmen, with many granges and numerous herds. It had much
+other property in Ayrshire, Dumfriesshire, Selkirkshire, and
+Berwickshire.
+
+But the abbey church which David built was not that of which we have now
+the remains. The whole place was repeatedly burned down by the English
+invaders. In 1215 the rebellious barons of King John of England swore
+fealty to Alexander II. of Scotland, at the altar of Melrose. Edward I.,
+in 1295-6, when at Berwick, granted the monks of Melrose restitution of
+the lands of which they had been deprived; but in 1332 Edward II. burned
+down the abbey and killed the abbot William de Peeblis and several of
+his monks. Robert I., of Scotland, in 1326 or four years afterward, gave
+£2,000 sterling to rebuild it; and Edward II., of England, came from New
+Castle at Christmas, 1341, and held his yule in the abbey, and made
+restitution of the lands and other property which his father had seized
+during the late war. In 1378 Richard II. granted a protection to the
+abbot and his lands; but in 1385 he burned down Melrose and other
+religious houses on his expedition into Scotland.
+
+Robert Bruce, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, granted a
+revenue to restore the abbey; and betwixt this period and the
+Reformation arose the splendid structure, the ruins of which yet charm
+every eye. It is in the highest style of the decorated order, every
+portion is full of work of the most exquisite character, occasionally
+mingled with the perpendicular. They are the only ruins of the church
+which remain, and they present the finest specimen of Gothic
+architecture and sculpture that Scotland possesses. One of Scotland's
+most discriminating writers says, "To say that Melrose is beautiful, is
+to say nothing. It is exquisitely--splendidly lovely. It is an object
+possest of infinite grace and unmeasurable charm; it is fine in its
+general aspect, and in its minutest details. It is a study--a glory."
+The church is two hundred and eighty-seven feet in length, and at the
+greatest breadth one hundred and fifty-seven feet. The west is wholly
+ruined; but the great eastern window remains, and one above the southern
+door, which are extremely fine. The pillars that remain to support the
+roof are of singular grace, and wherever you turn you behold objects
+that rivet the attention by their richness of sculpture, tho often only
+in fragments. The only wonder is that so much has escaped the numberless
+assaults of enemies.
+
+During the reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Elizabeth, the abbey
+was continually suffering from their inroads, in which the spirit of
+vengeance against the Scots who resisted their schemes of aggression was
+mixed strongly with that of enmity to Popery. In the year 1545, it was
+twice burned and ransacked by the English, first under Sir Ralph Eyre
+and Sir Bryan Layton, and again by the Earl of Hertford. At the
+Reformation, when all its lands and immunities were invested in the
+Crown, they were valued at £1,758 Scots, besides large contributions in
+kind. Among them, in addition to much corn were one hundred and five
+stones of butter, ten dozens of capons, twenty-six dozens of poultry,
+three hundred and seventy-six more fowl, three hundred and forty loads
+of peats, etc. Queen Mary granted Melrose and its lands and tithes to
+Bothwell, but they were forfeited on his attainder. They then passed to
+a Douglas, and afterward to Sir James Ramsay, who rescured James VI. in
+the conspiracy of Gowrie; then to Sir Thomas Hamilton in 1619, who was
+made Earl of Melrose, and afterward Earl of Haddington.
+
+About a century ago they became the property of the family of Buccleuch,
+in which they remain. The Douglas built himself a house out of the
+ruins, which may still be seen about fifty yards to the north of the
+church. The ruins are preserved with great care, and are shown by a
+family which is at once intelligent and courteous. The person going
+round, most generally, points out the shattered remains of thirteen
+figures at the great eastern window, in their niches, said to have been
+those of our Savior and his Apostles. They were broken to pieces by a
+fanatic weaver of Gattonside. A head is also pointed out, said to be
+that of Michael Scott, the magician, who exerted his power so
+wonderfully, according to tradition, in this neighborhood, as to split,
+the Eildon hill into three parts....
+
+The name of Melrose is clearly derived from the Ancient British,
+Melross, the projection of the meadow. Moel in Welsh and Maol in Irish
+signify something bald, naked, bare. Thus Moal-Ross, in the language of
+the Irish monks who first built the church here, would signify the naked
+promontory. Moel in Welsh is now usually applied to a smooth mountain,
+as Moel-Siabod; and we find Ross continually showing its Celtic origin
+where there is a promontory, as Ross on the Moray-frith, and Ross in
+Herefordshire from a winding of the Wye. But some old sculptor, on a
+stone still preserved in the village, has made a punning derivation for
+it, by carving a mell, or mallet, and a rose over it. This stone was
+part of a wall of the old prison, long since pulled down.
+
+The site of Melrose, like all monastic ones, is fine. The abbey stands
+on a broad level near the Tweed, but is surrounded by hills and fields
+full of beauty, and peopled with a thousand beings of romance,
+tradition, and poetry. South of the village rise the three peaks of the
+Eildon hill, bearing aloft the fame of Michael Scott and Thomas the
+Rhymer. On the banks of the Tweed, opposite to Melrose, lies Gattonside,
+buried in its gardens and orchards, and still retaining its faith in
+many a story of the supernatural; and about three miles westward, on the
+same bank of the river, stands Abbotsford, raised by a magician more
+mighty than Michael Scott. How is it possible to approach that haunted
+abode without meeting on the way the most wonderful troop of wild, and
+lofty, and beautiful beings that ever peopled earth or the realm of
+imagination? Scotch, English, Gallic, Indian, Syrian come forth to meet
+you. The Bruce, the Scottish Jameses, Coeur de Lion, Elizabeth,
+Leicester, Mary of Scots, James I. of England, Montrose, Claverhouse,
+Cumberland the Butcher. The Covenanters are ready to preach, and fight
+anew, the Highland clans rise in aid of the Stuart. What women of
+dazzling beauty--Flora M'Ivor, Rose Bradwardine, Rebecca the noble
+Jewess, Lucy Ashton, and Amy Robsart, the lovely Effie Deans, and her
+homely yet glorious sister Jenny, the bewitching Di Vernon, and Minna
+and Brenda Troil, of the northern isles, stand radiant amid a host of
+lesser beauties. Then comes Rob Roy, the Robin Hood of the hills; then
+Balfour of Burley issues, a stalwart apparition, from his hiding-place,
+and of infinite humor and strangeness of aspect. Where is there a band
+like this--the Baron of Bradwardine, Dominie Sampson, Meg Merrilies,
+Monkbarns, Edie Ochiltree, Old Mortality, Bailie Nicol Jarvie, Andrew
+Fairservice, Caleb Balderston, Flibbertigibbet, Mona of the Fitful head,
+and that fine fellow the farmer of Liddesdale, with all his Peppers and
+Mustards raffling at his heels? But not even out of Melrose need you
+move a step to find the name of a faithful servant of Sir Walter. Tom
+Purdie lies in Melrose Abbey-Yard; and Scott himself had engraven on his
+tomb that he was "the Wood-forester of Abbotsford," probably the title
+which Tom gave himself. Those who visit Melrose will take a peep at the
+gravestone of Tom Purdie, who sleeps amid a long line of the dead,
+reaching from the days of Aidan to our own, as alive he filled a little
+niche in the regard! of a master who has given to both high and low so
+many niches in the temple of immortality.
+
+
+
+CARLYLE'S BIRTHPLACE AND EARLY HOMES [Footnote: From "Fresh Fields." By
+special arrangement with, and by permission of, the publishers,
+Houghton, Mifflin Co. Copyright, 1884.]
+
+BY JOHN BURROUGHS.
+
+There was no road in Scotland or England which I should have been so
+glad to have walked over as that from Edinburgh to Ecclefechan, a
+distance covered many times by the feet of him whose birth and burial
+place I was about to visit. Carlyle as a young man had walked it with
+Edward Irving (the Scotch say "travel" when they mean going afoot), and
+he had walked it alone, and as a lad with an elder boy, on his way to
+Edinburgh College. He says in his "Reminiscences" he nowhere else had
+such affectionate, sad, thoughtful, and in fact interesting and salutary
+journeys....
+
+Not to be entirely cheated out of my walk, I left the train at Lockerby,
+a small Scotch market-town, and accomplished the remainder of the
+journey to Ecclefechan on foot, a brief six-mile pull. It was the first
+day of June; the afternoon sun was shining brightly. It was still the
+honeymoon of travel with me, not yet two weeks in the bonnie land; the
+road was smooth and clean as the floor of a sea beach, and firmer, and
+my feet devoured the distance with right good will....
+
+Four miles from Lockerby I came to Mainhill, the name of a farm where
+the Carlyle family lived many years, and where Carlyle first read
+Goethe, "in a dry ditch," Froude says, and translated "Wilhelm Meister."
+The land drops gently away to the south and east, opening up broad views
+in these directions, but it does not seem to be the bleak and windy
+place Froude describes it. The crops looked good, and the fields smooth
+and fertile. The soil is rather a stubborn clay, nearly the same as one
+sees everywhere....
+
+The Carlyles were living on this farm while their son was teaching
+school at Annan, and later at Kircaldy with Irving, and they supplied
+him with cheese, butter, ham, oatmeal, etc., from their scanty stores. A
+new farmhouse has been built since then, tho the old one is still
+standing; doubtless the same Carlyle's father refers to in a letter to
+his son, in 1817, as being under way. The parish minister was expected
+at Mainhill. "Your mother was very anxious to have the house done before
+he came, or else she said she would run over the hill and hide herself."
+
+From Mainhill the highway descends slowly to the village of Ecclefechan,
+the site of which is marked to the eye, a mile or more away, by the
+spire of the church rising up against a background of Scotch firs, which
+clothe a hill beyond. I soon enter the main street of the village, which
+in Carlyle's youth had an open burn or creek flowing through the center
+of it. This has been covered over by some enterprising citizen, and
+instead of a loitering little burn, crossed by numerous bridges, the eye
+is now greeted by a broad expanse of small cobble-stones. The cottages
+are for the most part very humble, and rise from the outer edges of the
+pavement, as if the latter had been turned up and shaped to make their
+walls. The church is a handsome brown-stone structure, of recent date,
+and is more in keeping with the fine fertile country about than with the
+little village in its front. In the cemetery back of it, Carlyle lies
+buried. As I approached, a girl sat by the roadside, near the gate,
+combing her black locks and arranging her toilet; waiting, as it proved,
+for her mother and brother, who lingered in the village. A couple of
+boys were cutting nettles against the hedge; for the pigs, they said,
+after the sting had been taken out of them by boiling. Across the street
+from the cemetery the cows of the villagers were grazing.
+
+I must have thought it would be as easy to distinguish Carlyle's grave
+from the others as it was to distinguish the man while living, or his
+fame when dead; for it never occurred to me to ask in what part of the
+inclosure it was placed. Hence, when I found myself inside the gate,
+which opens from the Annan road through a high stone wall, I followed
+the most worn path toward a new and imposing-looking monument on the far
+side of the cemetery; and the edge of my fine emotion was a good deal
+dulled against the marble when I found it bore a strange name. I tried
+others, and still others, but was disappointed. I found a long row of
+Carlyles, but he whom I sought was not among them. My pilgrim enthusiasm
+felt itself needlessly hindered and chilled. How many rebuffs could one
+stand? Carlyle dead, then, was the same as Carlyle living; sure to take
+you down a peg or two when you came to lay your homage at his feet.
+
+Presently I saw "Thomas Carlyle" on a big marble slab that stood in a
+family inclosure. But this turned out to be the name of a nephew of the
+great Thomas. However, I had struck the right plat at last; here were
+the Carlyles I was looking for, within a space probably of eight by
+sixteen feet, surrounded by a high iron fence. The latest made grave was
+higher and fuller than the rest, but it had no stone or mark of any kind
+to distinguish it. Since my visit, I believe, a stone or monument of
+some kind has been put up. A few daisies and the pretty blue-eyed
+speedwell were growing amid the grass upon it. The great man lies with
+his head toward the south or southwest, with his mother, sister, and
+father to the right of him, and his brother John to the left. I was glad
+to learn that the high iron fence was not his own suggestion. His father
+had put it around the family plot in his lifetime. Carlyle would have
+liked to have it cut down about half-way. The whole look of the
+cemetery, except in the size of the head-stones, was quite American....
+
+A young man and his wife were working in a nursery of young trees, a few
+paces from the graves and I conversed with them through a thin place in
+the hedge. They said they had seen Carlyle many times, and seemed to
+hold him in proper esteem and reverence. The young man had seen him come
+in summer and stand, with uncovered head, beside the graves of his
+father and mother. "And long and reverently did he remain there, too,"
+said the young gardener. I learned this was Carlyle's invariable custom:
+every summer did he make a pilgrimage to this spot, and with bared head
+linger beside these graves. The last time be came, which was a couple of
+years before he died, he was so feeble that two persons sustained him
+while he walked into the cemetery.
+
+
+
+BURNS'S LAND [Footnote: From "Our Old Home." Published by Houghton,
+Mifflin Co.]
+
+BY NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE.
+
+We left Carlisle at a little past eleven, and within the half-hour were
+at Gretna Green. Thence we rushed onward into Scotland through a flat
+and dreary tract of country, consisting mainly of desert and bog, where
+probably the moss-troopers were accustomed to take refuge after their
+raids into England. Anon, however, the hills hove themselves up to view,
+occasionally attaining a height which might almost be called
+mountainous. In about two hours we reached Dumfries, and alighted at the
+station there....
+
+We asked for Burns's dwelling; and a woman pointed across a street to a
+two-story house, built of stone, and whitewashed, like its neighbors,
+but perhaps of a little more respectable aspect than most of them, tho I
+hesitate in saying so. It was not a separate structure, but under the
+same continuous roof with the next. There was an inscription on the
+door, bearing no reference to Burns, but indicating that the house was
+now occupied by a ragged or industrial school. On knocking, we were
+instantly admitted by a servant-girl, who smiled intelligently when we
+told our errand, and showed us into a low and very plain parlor, not
+more than twelve or fifteen feet square. A young woman, who seemed to be
+a teacher in the school, soon appeared, and told us that this had been
+Burns's usual sitting-room, and that he had written many of his
+songs here.
+
+She then led us up a narrow staircase into a little bedchamber over the
+parlor. Connecting with it, there is a very small room, or windowed
+closet, which Burns used as a study; and the bedchamber itself was the
+one where he slept in his later lifetime, and in which he died at last.
+Altogether, it is an exceedingly unsuitable place for a pastoral and
+rural poet to live or die in,--even more unsatisfactory than
+Shakespeare's house, which has a certain homely picturesqueness that
+contrasts favorably with the suburban sordidness of the abode
+before us....
+
+Coming to St. Michael's Church, we saw a man digging a grave, and,
+scrambling out of the hole, he let us into the churchyard, which was
+crowded full of monuments. There was a footpath through this crowded
+churchyard, sufficiently well worn to guide us to the grave of Burns,
+but a woman followed behind us, who, it appeared, kept the key to the
+mausoleum, and was privileged to show it to strangers. The monument is a
+sort of Grecian temple, with pilasters and a dome, covering a space of
+about twenty feet square. It was formerly open to all the inclemencies
+of the Scotch atmosphere, but is now protected and shut in by large
+squares of rough glass, each pane being of the size of one whole side of
+the structure. The woman unlocked the door, and admitted us into the
+interior. Inlaid into the floor of the mausoleum is the gravestone of
+Burns--the very same that was laid over his grave by Jean Armour, before
+this monument was built. Displayed against the surrounding wall is a
+marble statue of Burns at the plow, with the Genius of Caledonia
+summoning the plowman to turn poet. Methought it was not a very
+successful piece of work; for the plow was better sculptured than the
+man, and the man, tho heavy and cloddish, was more effective than the
+goddess. Our guide informed us that an old man of ninety, who knew
+Burns, certifies this statue to be very like the original.
+
+The bones of the poet, and of Jean Armour, and of some of their
+children, lie in the vault over which we stood. Our guide (who was
+intelligent, in her own plain way, and very agreeable to talk withal)
+said that the vault was opened about three weeks ago, on occasion of the
+burial of the eldest son of Burns. [Footnote: This was written in 1860.]
+The poet's bones were disturbed, and the dry skull, once so brimming
+over with powerful thought and bright and tender fantasies, was taken
+away and kept for several days by a Dumfries doctor. It has since been
+deposited in a new leaden coffin, and restored to the vault.
+
+We went into the church, and found it very plain and naked, without
+altar-decorations, and having its floor quite covered with unsightly
+wooden pews. The woman led us to a pew cornering on one of the
+side-aisles, and, telling us that it used to be Burns's family pew,
+showed us his seat, which is in the corner by the aisle. It is so
+situated, that a sturdy pillar hid him from the pulpit, and from the
+minister's eye; "for Robin was no great friends with the ministers,"
+said she. This touch--his seat behind the pillar, and Burns himself
+nodding in sermon time, or keenly observant of profane things--brought
+him before us to the life. In the corner-seat of the next pew, right
+before Burns, and not more than two feet off, sat the young lady on whom
+the poet saw that unmentionable parasite which he has immortalized in
+song. We were ungenerous enough to ask the lady's name, but the good
+woman could not tell it. This was the last thing which we saw in
+Dumfries worthy of record; and it ought to be noted that our guide
+refused some money which my companion offered her, because I had already
+paid her what she deemed sufficient.
+
+At the railway station we spent more than a weary hour, waiting for the
+train, which at last came up, and took us to Mauchline. We got into an
+omnibus, the only conveyance to be had, and drove about a mile to the
+village, where we established ourselves at the Loudoun Hotel, one of the
+veriest country inns which we have found in Great Britain. The town of
+Mauchline, a place more redolent of Burns than almost any other,
+consists of a street or two of contiguous cottages, mostly whitewashed,
+and with thatched roofs. It has nothing sylvan or rural in the immediate
+village, and is as ugly a place as mortal man could contrive to make, or
+to render uglier through a succession of untidy generations. The fashion
+of paving the village street, and patching one shabby house on the
+gable-end of another, quite shuts out all verdure and pleasantness; but,
+I presume, we are not likely to see a more genuine old Scotch village,
+such as they used to be in Burns's time, and long before, than this of
+Mauchline. The church stands about midway up the street, and is built of
+red freestone, very simple in its architecture, with a square tower and
+pinnacles. In this sacred edifice, and its churchyard, was the scene of
+one of Burns's most characteristic productions, "The Holy Fair."
+
+Almost directly opposite its gate, across the village street, stands
+Posie Nansie's inn, where the "Jolly Beggars" congregated. The latter is
+a two-story, red-stone, thatched house, looking old, but by no means
+venerable, like a drunken patriarch. It has small, old-fashioned
+windows, and may well have stood for centuries--tho seventy or eighty
+years ago, when Burns was conversant with it, I should fancy it might
+have been something better than a beggar's alehouse....
+
+[Burns's farm of] Moss Giel is not more than a mile from Mauchline, and
+the road extends over a high ridge of land, with a view of far hills and
+green slopes on either side. Just before we reached the farm, the driver
+stopt to point out a hawthorn, growing by the wayside, which he said was
+Burns's "Lousie Thorn"; and I devoutly plucked a branch, altho I have
+really forgotten where or how this illustrious shrub has been
+celebrated. We then turned into a rude gateway, and almost immediately
+came to the farmhouse of Moss Giel, standing some fifty yards removed
+from the high-road, behind a tall hedge of hawthorn, and considerably
+overshadowed by trees.
+
+The biographers talk of the farm of Moss Giel as being damp and
+unwholesome; but I do not see why, outside of the cottage walls, it
+should possess so evil a reputation. It occupies a high, broad ridge,
+enjoying, surely, whatever benefit can come of a breezy site, and
+sloping far downward before any marshy soil is reached. The high hedge,
+and the trees that stand beside the cottage, give it a pleasant aspect
+enough to one who does, not know the grimy secrets of the interior; and
+the summer afternoon was now so bright that I shall remember the scene
+with a great deal of sunshine over it.
+
+Leaving the cottage, we drove through a field, which the driver told us
+was that in which Burns, turned up the mouse's nest. It is the
+enclosure, nearest to the cottage, and seems now to be a pasture, and a
+rather remarkably unfertile one. A little farther on, the ground was
+whitened with an immense number of daisies--daisies, daisies everywhere;
+and in answer to my inquiry, the driver said that this was the field
+where Burns ran his plowshare over the daisy. If so, the soil seems to
+have been consecrated to daisies by the song which he bestowed on that
+first immortal one. I alighted, and plucked a whole handful of these
+"wee, modest, crimson-tipped flowers," which will be precious to many
+friends in our own country as coming from Burns's farm, and being of the
+same race and lineage as that daisy which he turned into an amaranthine
+flower while seeming to destroy it. Prom Moss Giel we drove through a
+variety of pleasant scenes, some of which were familiar to us by their
+connection with Burns.
+
+By and by we came to the spot where Burns saw Miss Alexander, the Lass
+of Ballochmyle. It was on a bridge, which (or, more probably, a bridge
+that has succeeded to the old one, and is made of iron) crosses from
+bank to bank, high in air, over a deep gorge of the road; so that the
+young lady may have appeared to Burns like a creature between earth and
+sky, and compounded chiefly of celestial elements. But, in honest truth,
+the great charm of a woman, in Burns's eyes, was always her womanhood,
+and not the angelic mixture which other poets find in her.
+
+Our driver pointed out the course taken by the Lass of Ballochmyle,
+through the shrubbery, to a rock on the banks of the Lugar, where it
+seems to be the tradition that Burns accosted her. The song implies no
+such interview. Lovers, of whatever condition, high or low, could desire
+no lovelier scene in which to breathe their vows: the river flowing over
+its pebbly bed, sometimes gleaming into the sunshine, sometimes hidden
+deep in verdure, and here and there eddying at the foot of high and
+precipitous cliffs.
+
+Our ride to Ayr presented nothing very remarkable; and, indeed, a cloudy
+and rainy day takes the varnish off the scenery and causes a woeful
+diminution in the beauty and impressiveness of everything we see. Much
+of our way lay along a flat, sandy level, in a southerly direction. We
+reached Ayr in the midst of hopeless rain, and drove to the King's Arms
+Hotel. In the intervals of showers I took peeps at the town, which
+appeared to have many modern or modern-fronted edifices; altho there are
+likewise tall, gray, gabled, and quaint-looking houses in the
+by-streets, here and there, betokening an ancient place. The town lies
+on both sides of the Ayr, which is here broad and stately, and bordered
+with dwellings that look from their windows directly down into the
+passing tide.
+
+I crossed the river by a modern and handsome stone bridge, and recrossed
+it, at no great distance, by a venerable structure of four gray arches,
+which must have bestridden the stream ever since the early days of
+Scottish history. These are the "Two Briggs of Ayr," whose midnight
+conversation was overheard by Burns, while other auditors were aware
+only of the rush and rumble of the wintry stream among the arches. The
+ancient bridge is steep and narrow, and paved like a street, and
+defended by a parapet of red freestone, except at the two ends, where
+some mean old shops allow scanty room for the pathway to creep
+between....
+
+The next morning wore a lowering aspect, as if it felt itself destined
+to be one of many consecutive days of storm. After a good Scotch
+breakfast, however, of fresh herrings and eggs, we took a fly, and
+started at a little past ten for the banks of the Doon. On our way, at
+about two miles from Ayr, we drew up at a roadside cottage, on which was
+an inscription to the effect that Robert Burns was born within its
+walls. It is now a public-house; and, of course, we alighted and entered
+its little sitting-room, which, as we at present see it, is a neat
+apartment, with the modern improvement of a ceiling. The walls are much
+overscribbled with names of visitors, and the wooden door of a cupboard
+in the wainscot, as well as all the other woodwork of the room, is cut
+and carved with initial letters. So, likewise, are two tables, which,
+having received a coat of varnish over the inscriptions, form really
+curious and interesting articles of furniture. I have seldom (tho I do
+not personally adopt this mode of illustrating my humble name) felt
+inclined to ridicule the natural impulse of most people thus to record
+themselves at the shrines of poets and heroes.
+
+On a panel, let into the wall in a corner of the room, is a portrait of
+Burns, copied from the original picture by Nasmyth. The floor of this
+apartment is of boards, which are probably a recent substitute for the
+ordinary flagstones of a peasant's cottage. There is but one other room
+pertaining to the genuine birthplace of Robert Burns: it is the kitchen,
+into which we now went. It has a floor of flagstones, even ruder than
+those of Shakespeare's house--tho, perhaps, not so strangely cracked and
+broken as the latter, over which the hoof of Satan himself might seem to
+have been trampling. A new window has been opened through the wall,
+toward the road; but on the opposite side is the little original window,
+of only four small panes, through which came the first daylight that
+shone upon the Scottish poet. At the side of the room, opposite the
+fireplace, is a recess, containing a bed, which can be hidden by
+curtains. In that humble nook, of all places in the world, Providence
+was pleased to deposit the germ of the richest human life which mankind
+then had within its circumference.
+
+These two rooms, as I have said, make up the whole sum and substance of
+Burns's birthplace: for there were no chambers, nor even attics; and the
+thatched roof formed the only ceiling of kitchen and sitting-room, the
+height of which was that of the whole house. The cottage, however, is
+attached to another edifice of the same size and description, as these
+little habitations often are; and, moreover, a splendid addition has
+been made to it, since the poet's renown began to draw visitors to the
+wayside alehouse. The old woman of the house led us, through an entry,
+and showed a vaulted hall, of no vast dimensions, to be sure but
+marvelously large and splendid as compared with what might be
+anticipated from the outward aspect of the cottage. It contained a bust
+of Burns, and was hung round with pictures and engravings, principally
+illustrative of his life and poems. In this part of the house, too,
+there is a parlor, fragrant with tobacco-smoke; and, no doubt, many a
+noggin of whisky is here quaffed to the memory of the bard, who profest
+to draw so much inspiration from that potent liquor.
+
+We bought some engravings of Kirk Alloway, the Bridge of Doon, and the
+monument, and gave the old woman a fee besides, and took our leave. A
+very short drive farther brought us within sight of the monument, and to
+the hotel, situated close by the entrance of the ornamental grounds
+within which the former is enclosed. We rang the bell at the gate of the
+enclosure, but were forced to wait a considerable time; because the old
+man, the regular superintendent of the spot, had gone to assist at the
+laying of the corner-stone of a new kirk. He appeared anon, and admitted
+us, but immediately hurried away to be present at the ceremonies,
+leaving us locked up with Burns.
+
+The enclosure around the monument is beautifully laid out as an
+ornamental garden, and abundantly provided with rare flowers and
+shrubbery, all tended with loving care. The monument stands on an
+elevated site, and consists of a massive basement-story, three-sided,
+above which rises a light and elegant Grecian temple--a mere dome,
+supported on Corinthian pillars, and open to all the winds. The edifice
+is beautiful in itself; tho I know not what peculiar appropriateness it
+may have, as the memorial of a Scottish rural poet.
+
+The door of the basement-story stood open; and, entering, we saw a bust
+of Burns in a niche, looking keener, more refined, but not so warm and
+whole-souled as his pictures usually do. I think the likeness can not be
+good. In the center of the room stood a glass case, in which were
+deposited the two volumes of the little Pocket Bible that Burns gave to
+Highland Mary, when they pledged their troth to one another. It is
+poorly printed, on coarse paper. A verse of Scripture, referring to the
+solemnity and awfulness of vows, is written within the cover of each
+volume, in the poet's own hand; and fastened to one of the covers is a
+lock of Highland Mary's golden hair. This Bible had been carried to
+America by one of her relatives, but was sent back to be fitly
+treasured here.
+
+There is a staircase within the monument, by which we ascended to the
+top, and had a view of both Briggs of Doon; the scene of Tam O'Shanter's
+misadventure being close at hand. Descending, we wandered through the
+enclosed garden, and came to a little building in a corner, on entering
+which, we found the two statues of Tam and Sutor Wat--ponderous
+stonework enough, yet permeated in a remarkable degree with living
+warmth and jovial hilarity. Prom this part of the garden, too, we again
+beheld the old Briggs of Doon, over which Tam galloped in such imminent
+and awful peril. It is a beautiful object in the landscape, with one
+high, graceful arch, ivy-grown, and shadowed all over and around
+with foliage.
+
+When we had waited a good while, the old gardener came, telling us that
+he had heard an excellent prayer at laying the corner-stone of the new
+kirk. He now gave us some roses and sweetbrier, and let us out from his
+pleasant garden. We immediately hastened to Kirk Alloway, which is
+within two or three minutes' walk of the monument. A few steps ascend
+from the roadside, through a gate, into the old graveyard, in the midst
+of which stands the kirk. The edifice is wholly roofless, but the
+side-walls and gable-ends are quite entire, tho portions of them are
+evidently modern restorations. Never was there a plainer little church,
+or one with smaller architectural pretension; no New England
+meetinghouse has more simplicity in its very self, tho poetry and fun
+have clambered and clustered so wildly over Kirk Alloway that it is
+difficult to see it as it actually exists. By the by, I do not
+understand why Satan and an assembly of witches should hold their revels
+within a consecrated precinct; but the weird scene has so established
+itself in the world's imaginative faith that it must be accepted as an
+authentic incident, in spite of rule and reason to the contrary.
+Possibly, some carnal minister, some priest of pious aspect and hidden
+infidelity, had dispelled the consecration of the holy edifice, by his
+pretense of prayer, and thus made it the resort of unhappy ghosts and
+sorcerers and devils.
+
+The interior of the kirk, even now, is applied to quite as impertinent a
+purpose as when Satan and the witches used it as a dancing-hall; for it
+is divided in the midst by a wall of stone masonry, and each compartment
+has been converted into a family burial-place. The name on one of the
+monuments is Crawfurd; the other bore no inscription. It is impossible
+not to feel that these good people, whoever they may be, had no business
+to thrust their prosaic bones into a spot that belongs to the world, and
+where their presence jars with the emotions, be they sad or gay, which
+the pilgrim brings thither. They shut us out from our own precincts,
+too--from that inalienable possession which Burns bestowed in free gift
+upon mankind, by taking it from the actual earth and annexing it to the
+domain of imagination.
+
+Kirk Alloway is inconceivably small, considering how large a space it
+fills in our imagination before we see it. I paced its length, outside
+of the wall, and found it only seventeen of my paces, and not more than
+ten of them in breadth. There seem to have been but very few windows,
+all of which, if I rightly remember, are now blocked up with mason-work
+of stone. One mullioned window, tall and narrow, in the eastern gable,
+might have been seen by Tam O'Shanter, blazing with devilish light, as
+he approached along the road from Ayr; and there is a small and square
+one, on the side nearest the road, into which he might have peered, as
+he sat on horseback. Indeed, I could easily have looked through it,
+standing on the ground, had not the opening been walled up. There is an
+odd kind of belfry at the peak of one of the gables, with the small bell
+still hanging in it. And this is all that I remember of Kirk Alloway,
+except that the stones of its material are gray and irregular.
+
+The road from Ayr passes Alloway Kirk, and crosses the Doon by a modern
+bridge, without swerving much from a straight line. To reach the old
+bridge, it appears to have made a bend, shortly after passing the kirk,
+and then to have turned sharply toward the river. The new bridge is
+within a minute's walk of the monument; and we went thither, and leaned
+over its parapet to admire the beautiful Doon, flowing wildly and
+sweetly between its deep and wooded banks. I never saw a lovelier scene;
+altho this might have been even lovelier, if a kindly sun had shone upon
+it. The ivy-grown, ancient bridge, with its high arch, through which we
+had a picture of the river and the green banks beyond, was absolutely
+the most picturesque object, in a quiet and gentle way, that ever blest
+my eyes. Bonny Doon, with its wooded banks, and the boughs dipping into
+the water! The memory of them, at this moment, affects me like the song
+of birds, and Burns crooning some verses, simple and wild, in accordance
+with their native melody.... We shall appreciate him better as a poet,
+hereafter; for there is no writer whose life, as a man, has so much to
+do with his fame, and throws such a necessary light upon whatever he has
+produced. Henceforth, there will be a personal warmth for us in
+everything that he wrote; and, like his countrymen, we shall know him in
+a kind of personal way, as if we had shaken hands with him, and felt the
+thrill of his actual voice.
+
+
+
+HIGHLAND MARY'S HOME AND GRAVE [Footnote: From "A Literary Pilgrimage."
+By arrangement with, and by permission of, the publishers, J. B.
+Lippincott Co. Copyright, 1895.]
+
+BY THEODORE F. WOLFE.
+
+There is no stronger proof of the transcending power of the genius of
+Burns than is found in the fact that, by a bare half-dozen of his
+stanzas, an humble dairy servant--else unheard of outside her parish and
+forgotten at her death--is immortalized as a peeress of Petrarch's Laura
+and Dante's Beatrice, and has been for a century loved and mourned of
+all the world. We owe much of our tenderest poesy to the heroines whose
+charms have attuned the fancy and aroused the impassioned muse of
+enamoured bards; readers have always exhibited a natural avidity to
+realize the personality of the beings who inspired the tender
+lays--prompted often by mere curiosity, but more often by a desire to
+appreciate the tastes and motives of the poets themselves. How little is
+known of Highland Mary, the most famous heroine of modern song, is shown
+by the brief, coherent, and often contradictory allusions to her which
+the biographies of the plowman-poet contain. This paper--prepared during
+a sojourn in "The Land of Burns"--while it adds a little to our meager
+knowledge of Mary Campbell, aims to present consecutively and
+congruously so much as may be known of her brief life, her relation to
+the bard, and her sad, heroic death.
+
+She first saw the light in 1764, at Ardrossan, on the coast, fifteen
+miles northward from the "auld town of Ayr." Her parentage was of the
+humblest, her father being a sailor before the mast, and the poor
+dwelling which sheltered her was in no way superior to the meanest of
+those we find to-day on the narrow streets of her village. From her
+birthplace we see, across the Firth of Clyde, the beetling mountains of
+the Highlands, where she afterward dwells and southward the great mass
+of Ailsa Craig looming, a gigantic pyramid, out of the sea. Mary was
+named for her aunt, wife of Peter McPherson, a ship-carpenter of
+Greenock, in whose house Mary died. In her infancy her family removed to
+the vicinage of Dunoon, on the western shore of the Firth, eight miles
+below Greenock, leaving the oldest daughter at Ardrossan. Mary grew to
+young womanhood near Dunoon then returned to Ayrshire, and found
+occupation at Coilsfield, near Tarbolton, where her acquaintance with
+Burns soon began. He told a lady that he first saw Mary while walking in
+the woods of Coilsfield: and first spoke with her at a rustic
+merrymaking, and "having the luck to win her regards from other
+suitors," they speedily became intimate. At this period of life Burn's
+"eternal propensity to fall into love" was unusually active, even for
+him, and his passion for Mary (at this time) was one of several which
+engaged his heart in the interval between the reign of Ellison
+Begbie--"the lass of the twa sparkling, roguish een"--and that of
+"Bonnie Jean." Mary subsequently became a servant in the house of Burn's
+landlord, Gavin Hamilton, a lawyer of Mauchline, who had early
+recognized the genius of the bard and admitted him to an intimate
+friendship, despite his inferior condition....
+
+Within a stone's-throw of Mary dwelt Jean Armour, and when the former
+returned to Coilsfield, he promptly fell in love with Jean, and solaced
+himself with her more buxom and compliant charms. It was a year or so
+later, when his intercourse with Jean had burdened him with grief and
+shame, that the tender and romantic affection for Mary came into his
+life. She was yet at Coilsfield, and while he was in hiding--his heart
+tortured by the apparent perfidy of Jean and all the countryside
+condemning his misconduct--his intimacy with Mary was renewed; his
+quickened vision now discerned her endearing attributes, her trust and
+sympathy were precious in his distress, and awoke in him an affection
+such as he never felt for any other woman. During a few brief weeks the
+lovers spent their evenings and Sabbaths together, loitering amid the
+
+  "Banks and braes and streams around
+  The Castle of Montgomery,"
+
+talking of the golden days that were to be theirs when present troubles
+were past; then came the parting which the world will never forget, and
+Mary relinquished her service and went to her parents at Campbelltown--a
+port of Cantyre behind "Arran's mountain isle." Of this parting Burns
+says, in a letter to Thomson, "We met by appointment on the second
+Sunday of May, in a sequestered spot on the Ayr, where we spent the day
+in taking farewell before she should embark for the West Highlands to
+prepare for our projected change of life." Lovers of Burns linger over
+this final parting, and detail the impressive ceremonials with which the
+pair solemnized their betrothal: they stood on either side of a brook,
+they laved their hands in the water and scattered it in the air to
+symbolize the purity of their intentions; clasping hands above an open
+Bible, they swore to be true to each other forever, then exchanged
+Bibles, and parted never to meet more.
+
+It is not strange that when death had left him nothing of her but her
+poor little Bible, a tress of her golden hair, and a tender memory of
+her love, the recollection of this farewell remained in his soul
+forever. He has pictured it in the exquisite lines of "Highland Mary"
+and "To Mary in Heaven." In the monument at Alloway--between the "auld
+haunted kirk" and the bridge where Maggie lost her tail--we are shown a
+memento of the parting; it is the Bible which Burns gave to Mary and
+above which their vows were said. At Mary's death it passed to her
+sister, at Ardrossan, who bequeathed it to her son William Anderson;
+subsequently it was carried to America by one of the family, whence it
+has been recovered to be treasured here. It is a pocket edition in two
+volumes, to one of which is attached a lock of poor Mary's shining
+hair....
+
+A visit to the scenes of the brief passion of the pair is a pleasing
+incident of our Burns pilgrimage. Coilsfield House is somewhat changed
+since Mary dwelt beneath its roof--a great rambling edifice of gray
+weather-worn stone with a row of white pillars aligned along its faēade,
+its massive walls embowered in foliage and environed by the grand woods
+which Burns and Mary knew so well. It was then a seat of Colonel Hugh
+Montgomerie, a patron of Burns. The name Coilsfield is derived from
+Coila, the traditional appellation of the district. The grounds comprise
+a billowy expanse of wood and sward; great reaches of turf, dotted with
+trees already venerable when the lovers here had their tryst a hundred
+years ago, slope away from the mansion to the Faile and border its
+murmuring course to the Ayr. Here we trace with romantic interest the
+wanderings of the pair during the swift hours of that last day of
+parting love, their lingering way 'neath the "wild wood's thickening
+green," by the pebbled shore of Ayr to the brooklet where their vows
+were made, and thence along the Faile to the woodland shades of
+Coilsfield, where, at the close of that winged day, "pledging oft to
+meet again, they tore themselves asunder." Howitt found at Coilsfield a
+thorn-tree, called by all the country "Highland Mary's thorn," and
+believed to be the place of final parting; years ago the tree was
+notched and broken by souvenir seekers; if it be still in existence the
+present occupant of Coilsfield is unaware.....
+
+Mary remained at Campbelltown during the summer of 1786. Coming to
+Greenock in the autumn, she found her brother sick of a malignant fever
+at the house of her aunt; bravely disregarding danger of contagion, she
+devoted herself to nursing him, and brought him to a safe convalescense
+only to be herself stricken by his malady and to rapidly sink and die, a
+sacrifice to her sisterly affection. By this time the success of his
+poems had determined Burns to remain in Scotland, and he returned to
+Moss Giel, where tidings of Mary's death reached him. His brother
+relates that when the letter was handed to him he went to the window and
+read it, then his face was observed to change suddenly, and he quickly
+went out without speaking. In June of the next year he made a solitary
+journey to the Highlands, apparently drawn by memory of Mary. If,
+indeed, he dropt a tear upon her neglected grave and visited her humble
+Highland home, we may almost forgive him the excesses of that tour, if
+not the renewed liaison with Jean which immediately preceded, and the
+amorous correspondence with "Clarinda" (Mrs. M'Lehose) which
+followed it.....
+
+Poor Mary is laid in the burial-plot of her uncle in the west kirk-yard
+of Greenock, near Crawford Street; our pilgrimage in Burns-land may
+fitly end at her grave. A pathway, beaten by the feet of many reverent
+visitors, leads us to the spot. It is so pathetically different from the
+scenes she loved in life--the heather-clad slopes of her Highland home,
+the seclusion of the wooded braes where she loitered with her
+poet-lover. Scant foliage is about her; few birds sing above her here.
+She lies by the wall; narrow streets hem in the enclosure; the air is
+sullied by smoke from factories and from steamers passing within a
+stone's throw on the busy Clyde; the clanging of many hammers and the
+discordant din of machinery and traffic invade the place and sound in
+our ears as we muse above the ashes of the gentle lassie.
+
+For half a century her grave was unmarked and neglected; then, by
+subscription, a monument of marble, twelve feet in height, and of
+graceful proportions, was raised. It bears a sculptured medallion
+representing Burns and Mary, with clasped hands, plighting their troth.
+Beneath is the simple inscription, read oft by eyes dim with tears:
+
+  Erected over the grave of
+        Highland Mary
+             1842
+
+  "My Mary, dear departed shade,
+  Where is thy place of blissful rest?"
+
+
+
+THROUGH THE CALEDONIA CANAL TO INVERNESS [Footnote: From "Notes on
+England." Published by Henry Holt & Co.]
+
+BY HIPPOLYTE ADOLPHE TAINE
+
+In the luminous morning mist, amid a line of masts and rigging, the
+steamboat sailed down the Clyde to the sea. We proceeded along the
+indented and rugged coast from one bay to another. These bays, being
+almost entirely closed in, resemble lakes, and the large sheets of water
+mirror an amphitheater of green hills. All the corners and windings of
+the shore are strewn with white villas; the water is crowded with ships;
+a height was pointed out to me whence three hundred sail may often be
+counted at a time; a three-decker floats in the distance like a swan
+among sea-mews. This vast space spread forth and full of life, dilates
+the mind, one's chest expands more freely, one joyfully inhales the
+fresh and keen breeze. But the effect upon the nerves and the heart does
+not resemble that of the Mediterranean; this air and country, instead of
+pre-disposing to pleasure, dispose to action.
+
+We enter a small vessel drawn by three horses, which transports us along
+the Crinan canal, between two banks of green turf. On the one side are
+rocks covered with brushwood; on the other, steep declivities of a gray
+or reddish tinge; this, indeed, is color at least, a pleasure for the
+eye, well mingled, matched, and blended tints. On the bank and amid the
+bushes are wild roses, and fragile plants with white tufts smile with a
+delicate and charming grace.
+
+At the outlet from the canal we go on board a large steamer, and the sea
+opens out wider than ever. The sky is exceedingly clear and brilliant,
+and the waves break in the sunlight, quivering with reflections of
+molten tin. The vessel continues her course, leaving in her track a
+bubbling and boiling path; sea gulls follow unweariedly behind her. On
+both sides, islands, rocks, boldly-cut promontories stand in sharp
+relief in the pale azure; the scene changes every quarter of an hour.
+But on rounding every point the infinite ocean reappears, mingling its
+almost flat line with the curve of the white sky.
+
+The sun sets, we pass by Glencoe, and Ben Nevis appears sprinkled with
+snow; the bay becomes narrower, and the mass of water, confined amid
+barren mountains, assumes a tragic appearance. Human beings have come
+hither to little purpose. Nature remains indomitable and wild; one feels
+oneself upon a planet.
+
+We disembark near Fort William; the dying twilight, the fading red rays
+on the horizon enable us to get a glimpse of a desolate country; acres
+of peat-bog, eminences rising from the valley between two ranges of huge
+mountains. A bird of prey screams amid the stillness. Here and there we
+see some wretched hovels; I am told that those on the heights are dens
+without windows, and from which the smoke escapes through a hole in the
+roof. Many of the old men are blind. What an unpropitious abode for man!
+
+On the morrow we voyaged during four hours on the Caledonian canal
+amidst solitudes, a monotonous row of treeless mountains, enormous green
+eminences, dotted here and there with fallen stones. A few sheep of a
+dwarf breed crop the scanty herbage on the slopes; sometimes the winter
+is so severe that they die; in the distance we perceive a shaggy ox,
+with savage eyes, the size of a small ass. Both plants and animals
+perish, or are stunted. In order to make such a land yield anything it
+must first be replanted with trees, as has been done in Sutherlandshire;
+a tree renews the soil; it also shelters crops, flocks and herds, and
+human beings.
+
+The canal terminates in a series of lakes. Nothing is more noble than
+their aspect, nothing more touching. The water, embrowned by the peat,
+forms a vast shining plain, surrounded by a circle of mountains. In
+proportion as we advance each mountain slowly grows upon us, becomes
+more conspicuous, stands forth with its form and physiognomy; the
+farther blue peaks melt the one behind the other, diminishing toward the
+horizon, which they enclose. Thus they stand in position like an
+assemblage of huge, mournful beings around the black water wherein they
+are mirrored, while above them and the lake, from time to time, the sun
+flashes through the shroud of clouds.
+
+At last the solitude becomes less marked. The mountains are half-wooded
+at first, and then wholly so; they dwindle down; the widening valleys
+are covered with harvest; the fresh and green verdure of the herbage
+which supplies forage begins to clothe the hollows and the slopes. We
+enter Inverness, and we are surprised to find at almost the extreme
+north of Scotland, on the border of the Highlands, a pretty and lively
+modern town. It stretches along the two banks of a clear and rapid
+river. Many houses are newly-built; we note a church, a castle, an iron
+bridge. In every part are marks of cleanliness, forethought, and special
+care. The window-panes shine, the frames have been painted; the
+bell-handles are of copper; there are flowers in the windows; the
+poorest nouses are freshly whitewashed. Well-drest ladies and carefully
+drest gentlemen walk along the streets. Even a desire to possess works
+of art is shown by Ionian pillars, specimens of pure Gothic, and other
+architectural gimcrackery, and these prove at least the search after
+improvement. The land itself is clearly of inferior quality; industry,
+order, economy and labor have done everything. How great the contrast
+between all this and the aspect of a small town on the shores of the
+Mediterranean, so neglected and filthy, where the lower middle class
+exist like worms in a worm-eaten beam!
+
+
+
+THE SCOTCH HIGHLANDS [Footnote: From "Notes on England." Published by
+Henry Holt & Co.]
+
+BY HIPPOLYTE ADOLPHE TAINE
+
+On the slopes the violet heaths are spread like a silken carpet under
+the scanty firs. Higher still are large patches of evergreen wood, and,
+as soon as the mountain is approached, a brown circle of barren
+eminences may be discerned toward the horizon. At the end of an hour the
+desert begins; the climate is inimical to life, even to that of plants.
+A tarn, the tint of burned topaz, lies coldly and sadly between stony
+slopes whereon a few tufts of fern and heather grow here and there. Half
+a league higher is a second tarn, which appears still more dismal in the
+rising mist. Around, patches of snow are sprinkled on the peaks, and
+these descending in rivulets produce morasses. The small country ponies,
+with a sure instinct, surmount the bog, and we arrive at an elevation
+whence the eye, as far as it can reach, embraces nothing but an
+amphitheater of desolate, yet green summits; owing to the destruction of
+timber, everything else has perished; a scene of ruined nature is far
+more melancholy a spectacle than any human ruins. On our return across
+the lake, a bag-piper played his instrument. The music is strange and
+wild, its effects harmonizing with the aspect of the bubbling streams,
+veined with striking or somber reflections. The same simple note, a kind
+of dance music, runs through the whole piece in an incorrect and odd
+manner, and continually recurs, but it is always harsh and rough; it
+might be likened to an orange shriveled with the cold and
+rendered bitter.
+
+These are the Highlands. From Braemar to Perth we journey through them
+for many long miles. It is always a solitude; sometimes five or six
+valleys in succession are wholly bare, and one may travel for an hour
+without seeing a tree; then for another hour it is rare merely to see in
+the distance a wretched twisted birchen-tree, which is dying or dead. It
+would be some compensation if the rock were naked, and exhibited its
+mineral structure in all its fulness and ruggedness. But these
+mountains, of no great elevation, are but bosses with flabby outlines,
+they have fallen to pieces, and are stone heaps, resembling the remains
+of a quarry. In winter, torrents of water uproot the heather, leaving on
+the slopes a leprous, whitened scar, badly tinted by the too feeble sun.
+The summits are truncated, and want boldness. Patches of miserable
+verdure seam their sides and mark the oozing of springs; the remainder
+is covered with brownish heather. Below, at the very bottom, a torrent
+obstructed by stones, struggles along its channel, or lingers in
+stagnant pools. One sometimes discerns a hovel, with a stunted cow. The
+gray, low-lying sky, completes the impression of lugubrious monotony.
+
+Our conveyance ascends the last mountain. At length we see a steep
+declivity, a great rocky wall; but it is unique. We descend again, and
+enter a habitable tract. Cultivation occurs first on the lower parts,
+then on the slopes; the declivities are wooded, and then entire
+mountains; forests of firs spread their somber mantle over the crests;
+fields of oats and barley extend on all sides; we perceive pretty clumps
+of trees, houses surrounded by gardens and flowers, and then culture of
+all descriptions upon the lessening hills, here and there a park and a
+modern mansion. The sun bursts forth and shines merrily, but without
+heat; the fertile plain expands, abounding in promises of convenience
+and pleasure, and we enter Perth thinking about the historical
+narrations of Sir Walter Scott, and the contrast between the mountain
+and the plain, the revilings and scornings interchanged between the
+inhabitants of the Highlands and the Lowlands.
+
+
+
+BEN LOMOND AND THE HIGHLAND LAKES [Footnote: From "Views Afoot."
+Published by G. P. Putnam's Sons.]
+
+BY BAYARD TAYLOR
+
+It was indeed a glorious walk from Dumbarton to Loch Lomond through this
+enchanting valley. The air was mild and clear; a few light clouds
+occasionally crossing the sun chequered the hills with sun and shade. I
+have as yet seen nothing that in pastoral beauty can compare with its
+glassy winding stream, its mossy old woods and guarding hills and the
+ivy-grown, castellated towers embosomed in its forests or standing on
+the banks of the Leven--the purest of rivers. At the little village
+called Renton is a monument to Smollett, but the inhabitants seem to
+neglect his memory, as one of the tablets on the pedestal is broken and
+half fallen away. Farther up the vale a farmer showed us an old mansion
+in the midst of a group of trees on the banks of the Leven which he said
+belonged to Smollett--or Roderick Random, as he called him. Two or three
+old pear trees were still standing where the garden had formerly been,
+under which he was accustomed to play in his childhood.
+
+At the head of Leven Vale we set off in the steamer "Watch-Witch" over
+the crystal waters of Loch Lomond, passing Inch Murrin, the deer-park of
+the Duke of Montrose, and Inch Caillaeh,
+
+  "where gray pines wave
+  Their shadows o'er Clan Alpine's grave."
+
+Under the clear sky and golden light of the declining sun we entered the
+Highlands, and heard on every side names we had learned long ago in the
+lays of Scott. Here was Glen Fruin and Bannochar, Ross Dhu and the pass
+of Beal-ma-na. Farther still we passed Rob Roy's rock, where the lake is
+locked in by lofty mountains. The cone-like peak of Ben Lomond rises far
+above on the right, Ben Voirlich stands in front, and the jagged crest
+of Ben Arthur looks over the shoulder of the western hills....
+
+When we arose in the morning, at four o'clock, to return with the boat,
+the sun was already shining upon the westward hills; scarcely a cloud
+was in the sky and the air was pure and cool. To our great delight, Ben
+Lomond was unshrouded, and we were told that a more favorable day for
+the ascent had not occurred for two months. We left the boat at
+Rowardennan, an inn, at the southern base of Ben Lomond. After
+breakfasting on Loch Lomond trout I stole out to the shore while my
+companions were preparing for the ascent, and made a hasty sketch of
+the lake.
+
+We proposed descending on the northern side and crossing the Highlands
+to Loch Katrine; tho it was represented as difficult and dangerous by
+the guide who wished to accompany us, we determined to run the risk of
+being enveloped in a cloud on the summit, and so set out alone, the path
+appearing plain before us. We had no difficulty in following it up the
+lesser heights, around the base. It wound on over rock and bog, among
+the heather and broom with which the mountain is covered, sometimes
+running up a steep acclivity and then winding zigzag round a rocky
+ascent. The rains two days before had made the bogs damp and muddy; but,
+with this exception, we had little trouble for some time.
+
+Ben Lomond is a doubly-formed mountain. For about three-fourths of the
+way there is a continued ascent, when it is suddenly terminated by a
+large barren plain, from one end of which the summit shoots up abruptly,
+forming at the north side a precipice five hundred feet high. As we
+approached the summit of the first part of the mountain the way became
+very steep and toilsome, but the prospect, which had before been only on
+the south side, began to open on the east, and we saw suddenly spread
+out below us the vale of Monteith, with "far Loch Ard and Aberfoil" in
+the center and the huge front of Ben Venue filling up the picture.
+Taking courage from this, we hurried on. The heather had become stunted
+and dwarfish, and the ground was covered with short brown grass. The
+mountain-sheep which we saw looking at us from the rock above had worn
+so many paths along the side that we could not tell which to take, but
+pushed on in the direction of the summit, till, thinking it must be near
+at hand, we found a mile and a half of plain before us, with the top of
+Ben Lomond at the farther end. The plain was full of wet moss crossed in
+all directions by deep ravines or gullies worn in it by the
+mountain-rains, and the wind swept across with a tempest-like force.
+
+I met near the base a young gentleman from Edinburgh who had left
+Rowardennan before us, and we commenced ascending together. It was hard
+work, but neither liked to stop; so we climbed up to the first
+resting-place, and found the path leading along the brink of a
+precipice. We soon attained the summit, and, climbing up a little mound
+of earth and stones, I saw the half of Scotland at a glance. The clouds
+hung just above the mountain-tops, which rose all around like the waves
+of a mightly sea. On every side, near and far, stood their misty
+summits, but Ben Lomond was the monarch of them all. Loch Lomond lay
+unrolled under my feet like a beautiful map; just opposite, Loch Long
+thrust its head from between the feet of crowded hills to catch a
+glimpse of the giant. We could see from Ben Nevis to Ayr--from
+Edinburgh to Staffa. Stirling and Edinburgh castles would have been
+visible but that the clouds hung low in the valley of the Forth and hid
+them from our sight.
+
+... At a cottage on the farm of Coman, we procured some oatcakes and
+milk for dinner from an old Scotch woman who pointed out the direction
+of Loch Katrine, six miles distant; there was no road, nor, indeed, a
+solitary dwelling between. The hills were bare of trees, covered with
+scraggy bushes and rough heath, which in some places was so thick we
+could scarcely drag our feet through. Added to this, the ground was
+covered with a kind of moss that retained the moisture like a sponge; so
+that our boots ere long became thoroughly soaked. Several considerable
+streams were rushing down the side, and many of the wild breed of black
+Highland cattle were grazing around. After climbing up and down one or
+two heights, occasionally startling the moorcock and ptarmigan from
+their heathery coverts, we saw the valley of Loch Con, while in the
+middle of the plain on the top of the mountain we had ascended was a
+sheet of water which we took to be Loch Ackill. Two or three wild-fowl
+swimming on its surface were the only living things in sight. The peaks
+around shut it out from all view of the world; a single decayed tree
+leaned over it from a mossy rock which gave the whole scene an air of
+the most desolate wildness.
+
+From the next mountain we saw Loch Ackill and Loch Katrine below, but a
+wet and weary descent had yet to be made. I was about throwing off my
+knapsack on a rock to take a sketch of Loch Katrine, which appeared to
+be very beautiful from this point, when we discerned a cavalcade of
+ponies winding along the path from Inversnaid to the head of the lake,
+and hastened down to take the boat when they should arrive.... As we
+drew near the eastern end of the lake the scenery became far more
+beautiful. The Trosachs opened before us. Ben Ledi looked down over the
+"forehead bare" of Ben An, and as we turned a rocky point Ellen's Isle
+rose up in front. It is a beautiful little turquoise in the silver
+setting of Loch Katrine. The northern side alone is accessible, all the
+others being rocky and perpendicular and thickly grown with trees. We
+rounded the island to the little bay, bordered by the silver strand,
+above which is the rock from which Fitz-James wound his horn, and shot
+under an ancient oak which flung its long gray arms over the water. We
+here found a flight of rocky steps leading to the top, where stood the
+bower erected by Lady Willoughby D'Eresby to correspond with Scott's
+description. Two or three blackened beams are all that remain of it,
+having been burned down some years ago by the carelessness of
+a traveler.
+
+The mountains stand all around, like giants, to "sentinel this enchanted
+land." On leaving the island we saw the Goblin's Cave in the side of Ben
+Venue, called by the Gaels "Coiran-Uriskin." Near it is Beal-nam-bo--the
+"Pass of Cattle"--overhung with gray weeping birch-trees.
+
+Here the boatmen stopt to let us hear the fine echo, and the names of
+Rob Roy and Roderick Dhu were sent back to us apparently as loud as they
+were given. The description of Scott is wonderfully exact, tho the
+forest that feathered o'er the sides of Ben Venue has since been cut
+down and sold by the Duke of Montrose.
+
+When we reached the end of the lake, it commenced raining, and we
+hastened on through the pass of Beal-an-Duine, scarcely taking time to
+glance at the scenery, till Loch Achray appeared through the trees, and
+on its banks the ivy-grown front of the inn of Ardcheancrochan--with its
+unpronounceable name.
+
+
+
+TO THE HEBRIDES [Footnote: From "A Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides
+with Samuel Johnson, LL.D."]
+
+BY JAMES BOSWELL.
+
+My acquaintance, the Reverend Mr. John Macauley, one of the ministers of
+Inverary, and brother to our good friend at Calder, came to us this
+morning, and accompanied us to the castle, where I presented Dr. Johnson
+to the Duke of Argyle. We were shown through the house; and I never
+shall forget the impression made upon my fancy by some of the ladies'
+maids tripping about in neat morning dresses. After seeing for a long
+time little but rusticity, their lively manner, and gay, inviting
+appearance, pleased me so much, that I thought for the moment, I could
+have been a knight-errant for them.
+
+We then got into a low one-horse chair, ordered for us by the duke, in
+which we drove about the place. Dr. Johnson was much struck by the
+grandeur and elegance of this princely seat. He thought, however, the
+castle too low, and wished it had been a story higher. He said, "What I
+admire here, is the total defiance of expense." I had a particular pride
+in showing him a great number of fine old trees, to compensate for the
+nakedness which had made such an impression on him on the eastern coast
+of Scotland.
+
+When we came in, before dinner, we found the duke and some gentlemen in
+the hall. Dr. Johnson took much notice of the large collection of arms,
+which are excellently disposed there. I told what he had said to Sir
+Alexander Macdonald, of his ancestors not suffering their arms to rust.
+"Well," said the doctor, "but let us be glad we live in times when arms
+may rust. We can sit to-day at his grace's table without any risk of
+being attacked, and perhaps sitting down again wounded or maimed." The
+duke placed Dr. Johnson next himself at the table. I was in fine
+spirits, and tho sensible that I had the misfortune of not being in
+favor with the duchess I was not in the least disconcerted, and offered
+her grace some of the dish that was before me. It must be owned that I
+was in the right to be quite unconcerned, if I could. I was the Duke of
+Argyle's guest, and I had no reason to suppose that he adopted the
+prejudices and resentments of the Duchess of Hamilton....
+
+The duchess was very attentive to Dr. Johnson. I know not how a middle
+state came to be mentioned. Her Grace wished to hear him on that point.
+"Madam," said he, "your own relation, Mr. Archibald Campbell, can tell
+you better about it than I can. He was a bishop of the Nonjuring
+communion, and wrote a book upon the subject." He engaged to get it for
+her grace. He afterward gave a full history of Mr. Archibald Campbell,
+which I am sorry I do not recollect particularly.
+
+He said Mr. Campbell had been bred a violent Whig, but afterward "kept
+better company, and became a Tory." He said this with a smile, in
+pleasant allusion, as I thought, to the opposition between his own
+political principles and those of the duke's clan. He added that Mr.
+Campbell, after the revolution, was thrown into jail on account of his
+tenets; but, on application by letter to the old Lord Townshend, was
+released; that he always spoke of his lordship with great gratitude,
+saying, "tho a Whig, he had humanity."
+
+A gentleman in company, after dinner, was desired by the duke to go into
+another room, for a specimen of curious marble, which his grace wished
+to show us. He brought a wrong piece, upon which the duke sent him back
+again. He could not refuse, but, to avoid any appearance of servility,
+he whistled as he walked out of the room, to show his independence. On
+my mentioning this afterward to Dr. Johnson, he said, it was a nice
+trait of character.
+
+Dr. Johnson talked a great deal, and was so entertaining, that Lady
+Betty Hamilton, after dinner, went and placed her chair close to his,
+leaned upon the back of it, and listened eagerly. It would have made a
+fine picture to have drawn the sage and her at this time in their
+several attitudes. He did not know, all the while, how much he was
+honored. I told him afterward. I never saw him so gentle and complaisant
+as this day.
+
+We went to tea. The duke and I walked up and down the drawing room,
+conversing. The duchess still continued to show the same marked coldness
+for me; for which, tho I suffered from it, I made every allowance,
+considering the very warm part I had taken for Douglas, in the cause in
+which she thought her son deeply interested. Had not her grace
+discovered some displeasure toward me, I should have suspected her of
+insensibility or dissimulation....
+
+He was much pleased with our visit at the castle of Inverary. The Duke
+of Argyle was exceedingly polite to him, and, upon his complaining of
+the shelties which he had hitherto ridden being too small for him, his
+grace told him he should be provided with a good horse to carry him
+next day.
+
+
+
+STAFFA AND IONA [Footnote: From "Visits to Remarkable Places."]
+
+BY WILLIAM HOWITT.
+
+We are bound for the regions of ghosts and fays, mermaids and kelpies,
+of great sea-snakes, and a hundred other marvels and miracles. To
+accomplish all this, we have nothing more to do than step on board the
+steam-packet that lies at the Broomielaw, or great quay at Glasgow. The
+volume of heavy black smoke, issuing from its nickled chimney, announces
+that it means to be moving on its way speedily....
+
+Emerging from the Crinan canal, you issue forth into the Sound of Jura,
+and feel at once that you are in the stern and yet beautiful region of
+your youthful admiration. There is the heavy swell and the solemn roar
+of the great Atlantic. You feel the wild winds that sweep over it. You
+see around you only high and craggy coasts, that are bleak and naked
+with the lashings of a thousand tempests. All before you, are scattered
+rocks that emerge from the restless sea, and rocky isles, with patches
+of the most beautiful greensward, but with scarcely a single tree. The
+waves are leaping in whiteness against the cliffs, and thousands of
+sea-birds are floating in long lines on the billows, or skimming past
+you singly, and diving into the clear hissing waters as they near your
+vessel. One of the very first objects which arrests your senses is the
+Coryvreckan, or great whirlpool of the Hebrides, an awful feature in all
+the poetry and ballads belonging to these regions.
+
+I never visited any part of Great Britain which more completely met my
+anticipated ideas than this. The day was fine, but with a strong breeze.
+The sea was rough; the wild-fowl were flying, scudding, and diving on
+all hands; and, wherever the eye turned, were craggy islands-mountains
+of dark heath or bare splintered stone, and green, solitary slopes,
+where scarcely a tree or a hut was to be discovered; but now and then
+black cattle might be descried grazing, or flocks of sheep dotted the
+hill sides. Far as we could look, were naked rocks rising from the sea,
+that were worn almost into roundness, or scooped into hollows by the
+eternal action of the stormy waters. Some of them stood in huge arches,
+like temples of some shaggy seagod, or haunts of sea-fowl--daylight and
+the waves passing freely through them. Everywhere were waves, leaping in
+snowy foam against these rocks and against the craggy shores. It was a
+stern wilderness of chafing billows and of resisting stone. The rocks
+were principally of dark red granite, and were cracked across and
+across, as if by the action of fire or frost. Every thing spake to us of
+the wild tempests that so frequently rage through these seas....
+
+Staffa rose momently in its majesty before us! After all the
+descriptions which we had read, and the views we had seen of this
+singular little island, we were struck with delighted astonishment at
+its aspect. It is, in fact, one great mass of basaltic columns, bearing
+on their heads another huge mass of black stone, here and there covered
+with green turf. We sailed past the different caves--the Boat Cave and
+the Cormorant Cave, which are themselves very wonderful; but it was
+Fingal's Cave that struck us with admiration and awe. To see this
+magnificent cavern, with its clustered columns on each side, and pointed
+arch, with the bleak precipices above it, and the sea raging at its
+base, and dashing and roaring into its gloomy interior, was worth all
+the voyage. There are no words that can express the sensation it
+creates. We were taken in the boats on shore at the northeast point, and
+landed amid a wilderness of basaltic columns thrown into almost all
+forms and directions. Some were broken, and lay in heaps in the clear
+green water. Others were piled up erect and abrupt; some were twisted up
+into tortuous pyramids at a little distance from the shore itself, and
+through the passage which they left, the sea came rushing--all foam, and
+with the most tremendous roar. Others were bent like so many leaden
+pipes, and turned their broken extremities toward us.
+
+We advanced along a sort of giant's causeway, the pavement of which was
+the heads of basaltic columns, all fitting together in the most
+beautiful symmetry; and, turning round the precipice to our right hand,
+found ourselves at the entrance of the great cave. The sea was too
+stormy to allow us to enter it, as is often done in boats, we had
+therefore to clamber along one of its sides, where a row of columns is
+broken off, at some distance above the waves, and presents an
+accessible, but certainly very formidable causeway, by which you may
+reach the far end. I do not believe that any stranger, if he were there
+alone, would dare to pass along that irregular and slippery causeway,
+and penetrate to the obscure end of the cave; but numbers animate one
+another to anything. We clambered along this causeway or corridor, now
+ascending and now descending, as the broken columns required, and soon
+stood--upward of seventy of us--ranged along its side from one end to
+the other. Let it be remembered that this splendid sea cave is forty-two
+feet wide at the entrance; sixty-six feet high from low water; and runs
+into the rock two hundred and twenty-seven feet. Let it be imagined that
+at eight or ten feet below us it was paved with the sea, which came
+rushing and foaming along it, and dashing up against the solid rock at
+its termination; while the light thrown from the flickering billows
+quivered in its arched roof above us, and the whole place was filled
+with the solemn sound of the ocean; and if any one can imagine to
+himself any situation more sublime, I should like to know what that is.
+The roof is composed of the lower ends of basaltic columns, which have
+yet been so cut away by nature as to give it the aspect of the roof of
+some gigantic cathedral aisle; and lichens of gold and crimson have
+gilded and colored it in the richest manner.
+
+It was difficult to forget, as we stood there, that, if any one slipt,
+he would disappear forever, for the billows in their ebb would sweep him
+out to the open sea, as it were in a moment. Yet the excitement of the
+whole group was too evident to rest with any seriousness on such a
+thought. Some one suddenly fired a gun in the place, and the concussion
+and reverberated thunders were astounding.
+
+When the first effect was gone off, one general peal of laughter rung
+through the cave, and then nearly the whole company began to sing "The
+Sea! the sea!" The captain found it a difficult matter to get his
+company out of this strange chantry--where they and the wind and waves
+seemed all going mad together--to embark them again for Iona.
+
+Venerable Iona--how different! and with what different feelings
+approached! As we drew near, we saw a low bleak shore, backed by naked
+hills, and at their feet a row of miserable Highland huts, and at
+separate intervals the ruins of the monastery and church of Ronad, the
+church of St. Oran and its burying-ground, and lastly, the cathedral....
+
+Nothing is more striking, in this wild and neglected spot, than to walk
+among these ruins, and behold amid the rank grass those tombs of ancient
+kings, chiefs, and churchmen, with their sculpture of so singular and
+yet superior a style. It is said that there were formerly three hundred
+and sixty stone crosses in the Island of Iona, which since the
+Reformation have been reduced to two, and the fragments of two others.
+The Synod of Argyle is reported to have caused no less than sixty of
+them to be thrown into the sea at one time, and fragments of others,
+which were knocked in pieces, are to be seen here and there, some of
+them now converted into gravestones.
+
+They lie on the margin of the stormy Atlantic; they lie among walls
+which, tho they may be loosened for years, seem as tho they never could
+decay, for they are of the red granite of which the rocks and islets
+around are composed, and defended only by low enclosures piled up of the
+same granite, rounded into great pebbles by the washing of the sea. But
+perhaps the most striking scene of all was our own company of voyagers
+landing amid the huge masses of rock that scatter the strand; forming
+into long procession, two and two, and advancing in that order from one
+ruin to another.
+
+We chanced to linger behind for a moment; and our eye caught this
+procession of upward of seventy persons thus wandering on amid those
+time-worn edifices--and here and there a solitary cross lifting its head
+above them. It was a picture worthy of a great painter. It looked as tho
+the day of pilgrimages was come back again, and that this was a troop of
+devotees thronging to this holy shrine. The day of pilgrimages is,
+indeed come back again; but they are the pilgrimages of knowledge and an
+enlightened curiosity. The day of that science which the saints of Iona
+were said to diffuse first in Britain has now risen to a splendid noon;
+and not the least of its evidences is that, every few days through every
+summer, a company like this descends on this barren strand to behold
+what Johnson calls "that illustrious island which was once the luminary
+of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians
+derived the benefit of knowledge and the blessings of religion." A more
+interesting or laudable excursion the power of steam and English money
+can not well enable our countrymen to make.
+
+
+
+VII
+
+IRELAND
+
+
+
+A SUMMER DAY IN DUBLIN [Footnote: From "The Irish Sketch Book."]
+
+BY WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY
+
+Our passage across from the Head [Holyhead] was made in a rain so
+pouring and steady, that sea and coast were entirely hidden from us, and
+one could see very little beyond the glowing tip of the cigar which
+remained alight nobly in spite of the weather. When the gallant
+exertions of that fiery spirit were over for ever, and, burning bravely
+to the end, it had breathed its last in doing its master service, all
+became black and cheerless around; the passengers had dropt off one by
+one, preferring to be dry and ill below rather than wet and squeamish
+above; even the mate, with his gold-laced cap (who is so astonishingly
+like Mr. Charles Dickens, that he might pass for that gentleman)--even
+the mate said he would go to his cabin and turn in. So there remained
+nothing for it but to do as all the world had done....
+
+A long pier, with a steamer or two at hand, and a few small vessels
+lying on either side of the jetty; a town irregularly built, with
+showy-looking hotels; a few people straggling on the beach; two or three
+ears at the railroad station, which runs along the shore as far as
+Dublin; the sea stretching interminably eastward; to the north the Hill
+of Howth, lying gray behind the mist; and, directly under his feet, upon
+the wet, black, shining, slippery deck, an agreeable reflection of his
+own legs, disappearing seemingly in the direction of the cabin from
+which he issues; are the sights which a traveler may remark on coming on
+deck at Kingstown pier on a wet morning--let us say on an average
+morning; for according to the statement of well-informed natives, the
+Irish day is more often rainy than otherwise. A hideous obelisk, stuck
+upon four fat balls, and surmounted with a crown on a cushion (the
+latter were no bad emblems perhaps of the monarch in whose honor they
+were raised), commemorates the sacred spot at which George IV. quitted
+Ireland: you are landed here from the steamer; and a carman, who is
+dawdling in the neighborhood, with a straw in his mouth, comes leisurely
+up to ask whether you'll go to Dublin?
+
+Is it natural indolence, or the effect of despair because of the
+neighboring railroad, which renders him so indifferent? He does not even
+take the straw out of his mouth as he proposes the question, and seems
+quite careless as to the answer. He said he would take me to Dublin "in
+three quarthers," as soon as we began a parley; as to the fare, he would
+not hear of it--he said he would leave it to my honor; he would take me
+for nothing. Was it possible to refuse such a genteel offer?
+
+Before that day, so memorable for joy and sorrow, for rapture at
+receiving its monarch and tearful grief at losing him, when George IV.
+came and left the maritime resort of the citizens of Dublin, it bore a
+less genteel name than that which it owns at present, and was called
+Dunleary. After that glorious event Dunleary disdained to be Dunleary
+any longer, and became Kingstown, henceforward and forever. Numerous
+terraces and pleasure-houses have been built in the place--they stretch
+row after row along the banks of the sea, and rise one above another on
+the hill. The rents of these houses are said to be very high; the Dublin
+citizens crowd into them in summer; and a great source of pleasure and
+comfort must it be to them to have the fresh sea-breezes and prospects
+so near to the metropolis.
+
+The better sort of houses are handsome and spacious; but the fashionable
+quarter is yet in an unfinished state, for enterprising architects are
+always beginning new roads, rows and terraces; nor are those already
+built by any means complete. [Footnote: This was written in 1842.]
+Besides the aristocratic part of the town is a commercial one, and
+nearer to Dublin stretch lines of low cottages which have not a
+Kingstown look at all, but are evidently of the Dunleary period.... The
+capabilities of the country, however, are very, very great, and in many
+instances have been taken advantage of; for you see, besides the misery,
+numerous handsome houses and parks along the road, having fine lawns and
+woods, and the sea in our view, at a quarter of an hour's ride from
+Dublin. It is the continual appearance of this sort of wealth which
+makes the poverty more striking; and thus between the two (for there is
+no vacant space of fields between Kingstown and Dublin) the car
+reaches the city.
+
+The entrance to the capital is very handsome. There is no bustle and
+throng of carriages, as in London; but you pass by numerous rows of neat
+houses, fronted with gardens, and adorned with all sorts of gay-looking
+creepers. Pretty market-gardens, with trim beds of plants and shining
+glass-houses, give the suburbs a riante and cheerful look; and, passing
+under the arch of the railway, we are in the city itself. Hence you come
+upon several old-fashioned, well-built, airy, stately streets, and
+through Fitzwilliam Square, a noble place, the garden of which is full
+of flowers and foliage. The leaves are green, and not black as in
+similar places in London; the red-brick houses tall and handsome.
+Presently the ear stops before an extremely big red house, in that
+extremely large square, Stephen's Green, where Mr. O'Connell says there
+is one day or other to be a Parliament. There is room enough for that,
+or for any other edifice which fancy or patriotism may have a mind to
+erect, for part of one of the sides of the square is not yet built, and
+you see the fields and the country beyond....
+
+The hotel to which I had been directed is a respectable old edifice,
+much frequented by families from the country, and where the solitary
+traveler may likewise find society. For he may either use the Shelburne
+as a hotel or a boarding-house, in which latter case he is comfortably
+accommodated at the very moderate daily charge. For this charge a
+copious breakfast is provided for him in the coffee-room, a perpetual
+luncheon is likewise there spread, a plentiful dinner is ready at six
+o'clock; after which, there is a drawing-room and a rubber of whist,
+with tay and coffee and cakes in plenty to satisfy the largest appetite.
+The hotel is majestically conducted by clerks and other officers; the
+landlord himself does not appear, after the honest comfortable English
+fashion, but lives in a private mansion hard by, where his name may be
+read inscribed on a brass-plate, like that of any other private
+gentleman.
+
+A woman melodiously crying "Dublin Bay herrings" passed just as we came
+up to the door, and as that fish is famous throughout Europe, I seized
+the earliest opportunity and ordered a broiled one for breakfast. It
+merits all its reputation: and in this respect I should think the Bay of
+Dublin is far superior to its rival of Naples. Are there any herrings in
+Naples Bay? Dolphins there may be; and Mount Vesuvius, to be sure, is
+bigger than even the Hill of Howth: but a dolphin is better in a sonnet
+than at a breakfast, and what poet is there that, at certain periods of
+the day, would hesitate in his choice between the two?
+
+With this famous broiled herring the morning papers are served up; and a
+great part of these, too, gives opportunity of reflection to the
+newcomer, and shows him how different this country is from his own. Some
+hundred years hence, when students want to inform themselves of the
+history of the present day, and refer to files of "Times" and
+"Chronicle" for the purpose, I think it is possible that they will
+consult, not so much those luminous and philosophical leading articles
+which call our attention at present both by the majesty of their
+eloquence and the largeness of their type, but that they will turn to
+those parts of the journals into which information is squeezed into the
+smallest possible print, to the advertisements, namely, the law and
+police reports, and to the instructive narratives supplied by that
+ill-used body of men who transcribe knowledge at the rate of a penny
+a line....
+
+The papers being read, it became my duty to discover the town; and a
+handsomer town, with fewer people in it, it is impossible to see on a
+summer's day. In the whole wide square of Stephen's Green, I think there
+were not more than two nursery-maids, to keep company with the statue of
+George I., who rides on horseback in the middle of the garden, the horse
+having his foot up to trot, as if he wanted to go out of town too. Small
+troops of dirty children (too poor and dirty to have lodgings at
+Kingstown) were squatting here and there upon the sunshiny steps, the
+only clients at the thresholds of the professional gentlemen whose names
+figure on brass-plates on the doors. A stand of lazy carmen, a policeman
+or two with clinking boot-heels, a couple of moaning beggars leaning
+against the rails and calling upon the Lord, and a fellow with a toy and
+book stall, where the lives of St. Patrick, Robert Emmet, and Lord
+Edward Fitzgerald may be bought for double their value, were all the
+population of the Green.... In the courts of the College, scarce the
+ghost of a gyp or the shadow of a bed-maker. In spite of the solitude,
+the square of the College is a fine sight--a large ground, surrounded by
+buildings of various ages and styles, but comfortable, handsome, and in
+good repair; a modern row of rooms; a row that has been Elizabethan
+once; a hall and senate-house, facing each other, of the style of George
+I.; and a noble library, with a range of many windows, and a fine manly
+simple faēade of cut stone.
+
+The bank and other public buildings of Dublin are justly famous. In the
+former may still be seen the room which was the House of Lords formerly,
+and where the bank directors now sit, under a clean marble image of
+George III. The House of Commons has disappeared, for the accommodation
+of clerks and cashiers. The interior is light, splendid, airy, well
+furnished, and the outside of the building not less so. The Exchange,
+hard by, is an equally magnificent structure; but the genius of commerce
+has deserted it, for all its architectural beauty. There was nobody
+inside when I entered, but a pert statue of George III. in a Roman toga,
+simpering and turning out his toes; and two dirty children playing,
+whose hoop-sticks caused great clattering echoes under the vacant
+sounding dome.
+
+Walking toward the river, you have on either side of you, at Carlisle
+Bridge, a very brilliant and beautiful prospect. The four courts and
+their dome to the left, the custom-house and its dome to the right; and
+in this direction seaward, a considerable number of vessels are moored,
+and the quays are black and busy with the cargoes discharged from ships.
+Seamen cheering, herring-women bawling, coal-carts loading--the scene is
+animated and lively. Yonder is the famous Corn Exchange; but the Lord
+Mayor is attending to his duties in Parliament, and little of note is
+going on. I had just passed his lordship's mansion in Dawson Street--a
+queer old dirty brick house, with dumpy urns at each extremity, and
+looking as if a story of it had been cut off--a rasée house. Close at
+hand, and peering over a paling, is a statue of our blest sovereign
+George II. How absurd these pompous images look, of defunct majesties,
+for whom no breathing soul cares a halfpenny! It is not so with the
+effigy of William III., who has done something to merit a statue. At
+this minute the Lord Mayor has William's effigy under a canvas, and is
+painting him of a bright green picked out with yellow--his lordship's
+own livery.
+
+The view along the quays to the four courts has no small resemblance to
+a view along the quays at Paris, tho not so lively as are even those
+quiet walks. The vessels do not come above-bridge, and the marine
+population remains constant about them, and about numerous dirty
+liquor-shops, eating-houses, and marine-store establishments, which are
+kept for their accommodation along the quay. As far as you can see, the
+shining Liffey flows away eastward, hastening (like the rest of the
+inhabitants of Dublin) to the sea.
+
+In front of Carlisle Bridge, and not in the least crowded, tho in the
+midst of Sackville Street, stands Nelson upon a stone pillar. The post
+office is on his right hand (only it is cut off); and on his left,
+Gresham's and the Imperial Hotel. Of the latter let me say (from
+subsequent experience) that it is ornamented by a cook who could dress a
+dinner by the side of M. Borel or M. Soyéld there were more such artists
+in this ill-fated country! The street is exceedingly broad and handsome;
+the shops at the commencement, rich and spacious; but in Upper Sackville
+Street, which closes with the pretty building and gardens of the
+Rotunda, the appearance of wealth begins to fade somewhat, and the
+houses look as if they had seen better days. Even in this, the great
+street of the town, there is scarcely any one, and it is as vacant and
+listless as Pall Mall in October.
+
+
+
+DUBLIN CASTLE [Footnote: From "Ireland: Its Scenery, Character, Etc."]
+
+BY MR. AND MRS. S. C. HALL
+
+The building of Dublin "Castle"--for the residence of the Viceroys
+retains the term--was commenced by Meiler FitzHenry, Lord Justice of
+Ireland, in 1205; and finished, fifteen years afterward, by Henry de
+Loundres, Archbishop of Dublin. The purpose of the structure is declared
+by the patent by which King John commanded its erection: "You have given
+us to understand that you have not a convenient place wherein our
+treasure may be safely deposited; and forasmuch, as well for that use as
+for many others, a fortress would be necessary for us at Dublin, we
+command you to erect a castle there, in such competent place as you
+shall judge most expedient, as well to curb the city as to defend it if
+occasion shall so require, and that you make it as strong as you can
+with good and durable walls." Accordingly it was occupied as a strong
+fortress only, until the reign of Elizabeth, when it became the seat of
+the Irish government--the court being held previously at various palaces
+in the city or its suburbs; and in the seventeenth century, Terms and
+Parliaments were both held within its walls.
+
+The Castle, however, has undergone so many and such various changes from
+time to time, as circumstances justified the withdrawal of its defenses,
+that the only portion of it which nows bears a character of antiquity is
+the Birmingham Tower; and even that has been almost entirely rebuilt,
+altho it retains its ancient form. The records of this tower--in modern
+times the "State Paper Office"--would afford materials for one of the
+most singular and romantic histories ever published. It received its
+name, according to Dr. Walsh, not from the De Birminghams, who were
+lords justices in 1321 and 1348; but from Sir William Birmingham, who
+was imprisioned there in 1331, with his son Walter; "the former was
+taken out from thence and executed, the latter was pardoned as to life
+because he was in holy orders." It was the ancient keep, or ballium, of
+the fortress; and was for a very long period the great state prison, in
+which were confined the resolute or obstinate Milesian chiefs, and the
+rebellious Anglo-Norman lords. Strong and well guarded as it was,
+however, its inmates contrived occasionally to escape from its durance.
+Some of the escapes which the historians have recorded are remarkable
+and interesting.
+
+The Castle is situated on very high ground, nearly in the center of the
+city; the principal entrance is by a handsome gateway. The several
+buildings, surrounding two squares, consist of the lord-lieutenant's
+state apartments, guardrooms, the offices of the chief secretary, the
+apartments of aides-du-camp and officers of the household, the offices
+of the treasury, hanaper, register, auditor-general, constabulary, etc.,
+etc. The buildings have a dull and heavy character--no effort has been
+made at elegance or display--and however well calculated they may seem
+for business, the whole have more the aspect of a prison than a court.
+There is, indeed, one structure that contributes somewhat to redeem the
+somber appearance of "the Castle"--the chapel is a fine Gothic edifice,
+richly decorated both within and without. The following description of
+the ancient character of "the Castle" is gathered from Dr. Walsh:
+
+"The entrance from the city on the north side was by a drawbridge,
+placed between two strong round towers from Castle Street, the westward
+of which subsisted till the year 1766. A portcullis, armed with iron,
+between these towers, served as a second defense, in case the bridge
+should be surprised by an enemy. A high curtain extended from the
+western tower to Cork Tower, so called after the great Earl of Cork,
+who, in 1624, expended a considerable sum in rebuilding it. The wall was
+then continued of equal height until it joined Birmingham Tower, which
+was afterward used as a prison for state criminals; it was taken down in
+1775, and the present building erected on the site, for preserving part
+of the ancient records of the kingdom. From this another high curtain
+extended to the Wardrobe Tower, which served as repository for the royal
+robe, the cap of maintenance, and the other furniture of state. From,
+this tower the wall was carried to the North or Storehouse Tower (now
+demolished) near Dame's Gate, and from thence it was continued to the
+eastern gateway tower, at the entrance of the castle. This fortress was
+originally encompassed with a broad and deep moat, which has long since
+been filled up. There were two sally ports in the wall, one toward Sheep
+(now Ship) Street, which was closed up in 1663 by the Duke of Ormond,
+after the discovery of Jephson and Blood's conspiracy."
+
+The walls by which it was formerly surrounded, and the fortifications
+for its defense, have nearly all vanished. Neither is Dublin rich in
+remains of antiquity; one of the few that appertain to its ancient
+history is a picturesque gateway, but not of a very remote date, called
+Marsh's Gate. It stands in Kevin Street, near the cathedral of St.
+Patrick, and is the entrance to a large court, now occupied by the horse
+police; at one end of which is the Barrack, formerly, we believe, the
+Deanery, and Marsh's library.
+
+
+
+ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL [Footnote: From "Ireland: Its Scenery,
+Character, Etc."]
+
+BY MR. AND MRS. S. C. HALL
+
+If few of the public structures of Dublin possess "the beauty of age,"
+many of its churches may be classed with the "ancient of days." Chief
+among them all is the Cathedral of St. Patrick; interesting, not alone
+from its antiquity, but from its association with the several leading
+events, and remarkable people, by which and by whom Ireland has been
+made "famous." It is situated in a very old part of Dublin, in the midst
+of low streets and alleys, the houses being close to the small open yard
+by which the venerable structure is encompassed. Its condition, too, is
+very wretched; and altho various suggestions have been made, from time
+to time, for its repair and renovation, it continues in a state by no
+means creditable either to the church or the city. It was built A.D.
+1190, by John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, by whom it was dedicated to
+the patron saint of Ireland; but it is said, the site on which it stands
+was formerly occupied by a church erected by the saint himself--A.D.
+448. St. Patrick's was collegiate in its first institution, and erected
+into a cathedral about the year 1225, by Henry de Loundres, successor to
+Archbishop Comyn, "united with the cathedral of the Holy Trinity,
+Christ's Church, Dublin, into one spouse, saving unto the latter the
+prerogative of honor." The question of precedence between the sees of
+Dublin and Armagh was agitated for centuries with the greatest violence,
+and both pleaded authority in support of their pretensions; it was at
+length determined, in 1552, that each should be entitled to primatial
+dignity, and erect his crozier in the diocese of the other: that the
+archbishop of Dublin should be titled the "Primate of Ireland;" while
+the archbishop of Armagh should be styled, with more precision, "Primate
+of all Ireland"--a distinction which continues to the present day.
+
+Above two centuries before this arrangement, however, as the diocese of
+Dublin contained two cathedrals--St. Patrick's and Christ Church--an
+agreement was made between the chapters of both, that each church should
+be called Cathedral and Metropolitan, but that Christ Church should have
+precedence, as being the elder church, and that the archbishops should
+be buried alternately in the two cathedrals.
+
+The sweeping censure of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, that "in point of good
+architecture it has little to notice or commend," is not to be
+questioned; ruins--and, in its present state, St. Patrick's approaches
+very near to be classed among them--of far greater beauty abound in
+Ireland. It is to its associations with the past that the cathedral is
+mainly indebted for its interest. The choral music of St. Patrick's is
+said to be "almost unrivalled for its combined powers of voice, organ,
+and scientific skill."
+
+
+
+LIMERICK [Footnote: From "Ireland: Its Scenery, Character, Etc."]
+
+BY MR. AND MRS. S. C. HALL
+
+Limerick is distinguished in history as "the city of the violated
+treaty;" and the Shannon, on which it stands, has been aptly termed "the
+King of Island Rivers." Few of the Irish counties possess so many
+attractions for the antiquarian and the lover of the picturesque: and
+with one exception, no city of Ireland has contributed so largely to
+maintain the honor and glory of the country. The brave defenders of
+Limerick and Londonderry have received--the former from the Protestant,
+and the latter from the Catholic, historian--the praise that party
+spirit failed to weaken; the heroic gallantry, the indomitable
+perseverance, and the patient and resolute endurance under suffering, of
+both, having deprived political partizans of their asperity--compelling
+them, for once at least, to render justice to their opponents; all
+having readily subscribed to the opinion that "Derry and Limerick will
+ever grace the historic page, as rival companions and monuments of Irish
+bravery, generosity, and integrity."
+
+From a very early period Limerick has held rank among the cities of
+Ireland, second only to that of the capital; and before its walls were
+defeated, first, the Anglo-Norman chivalry; next, the sturdy Ironsides
+of Cromwell; and last, the victorious array of William the Third. Like
+most of the Irish sea-ports, it was, in the ninth and tenth centuries, a
+settlement of the Danes, between whom and the native Irish many
+encounters took place, until finally the race of the sea-kings was
+expelled from the country.
+
+It is certain that at this early period Limerick was a place of
+considerable importance; for some time after, indeed until the conquest
+by the English, it was the capital of the province, and the seat of the
+kings of Thomond, or North Munster, who were hence called Kings of
+Limerick. Upon the arrival of Strongbow, Donnell O'Brien swore fealty to
+Henry the Second, but subsequently revolted; and Raymond Le Gros, the
+bravest and noblest of all the followers of Strongbow, laid siege to his
+city. Limerick was at that time "environed with a foule and deepe ditch
+with running water, not to be passed over without boats, but by one
+foord only;" the English soldiers were therefore discouraged, and would
+have abandoned the attempt to take it, but that "a valiaunt knight,
+Meyler Fitz-Henry, having found the foord, wyth a loud voyce cried 'St.
+David, companions, let us corageouslie pass this foord.'" For some years
+after the city was alternately in the possession of the English and the
+Irish; on the death of Strongbow, it was surrendered to the keeping of
+its native prince, who swore to govern it for the King of England; but
+the British knights had scarcely passed the bridge, when he destroyed it
+and set fire to the town.
+
+After again repeatedly changing hands, it was finally settled by the
+renowned William de Burgo, ancestor of the present Marquis of
+Clanricarde, and remained an appanage to the English crown. At this
+period, and for some time after, Limerick, was "next in consequence" to
+Dublin. Richard the First, in the ninth year of his reign, granted it a
+charter to elect a mayor--an honor which London did not then enjoy, and
+which Dublin did not receive until a century later; and King John,
+according to Stanihurst, was "so pleased with the agreeableness of the
+city, that he caused a very fine castle and bridge to be built there."
+The castle has endured for above six centuries; in all the "battles,
+sieges, fortunes," that have since occurred, it has been the object most
+coveted, perhaps in Ireland, by the contending parties; and it still
+frowns, a dark mass, upon the waters of the mighty Shannon. The great
+attraction of Limerick--altho by no means the only one--is, however, its
+majestic, and beautiful river: "the king of island rivers,"--the
+"principallest of all in Ireland," writes the quaint old naturalist, Dr.
+Gerrard Boate. It takes its rise among the mountains of Leitrim--strange
+to say, the precise spot has not been ascertained--and running for a few
+miles as an inconsiderable stream, diffuses itself into a spacious lake,
+called Lough Allyn. Issuing thence it pursues its course for several
+miles, and forms another small lake, Lough Eike; again spreads itself
+out into Lough Ree,--a lake fifteen miles in length and four in breadth;
+and thence proceeds as a broad and rapid river, passing by Athlone; then
+narrowing again until it reaches Shannon harbor; then widening into
+far-famed Lough Derg, eighteen miles long and four broad; then
+progressing until it arrives at Killaloe, where it ceases to be
+navigable until it waters. Limerick city; from whence it flows in a
+broad and majestic volume to the ocean for about sixty miles; running a
+distance of upward of 200 miles from its source to its mouth--between
+Loop Head and Kerry Head (the space between them being about eight
+miles), watering ten counties in its progress, and affording facilities
+for commerce and internal intercourse such as are unparalleled in any
+other portion of the United Kingdom.
+
+"The spacious Shenan spreading like a sea," thus answers to the
+description of Spenser; for a long space its course is so gentle that
+ancient writers supposed its name to have been derived from "Seen-awn,"
+the slow river; and for many miles, between O'Brien's Bridge and
+Limerick, it rolls so rapidly along as almost to be characterized as a
+series of cataracts. At the falls of Killaloe, it descends twenty-one
+feet in a mile; and above one hundred feet from Killaloe to Limerick....
+Its banks too are, nearly all along its course, of surpassing beauty; as
+it nears Limerick, the adjacent hills are crowned with villas; and upon
+its sides are the ruins of many ancient castles. Castle Connell, a
+village about six miles from the city, is perhaps unrivaled in the
+kingdom for natural graces; and immediately below it are the Falls of
+Doonas where the river rushes over huge mountain-rocks, affording a
+passage which the more daring only will make; for the current--narrowed
+to a boat's breadth--rushes along with such frightful rapidity, that the
+deviation of a few inches would be inevitable destruction.
+
+The immediate environs of Limerick are not picturesque; the city lies in
+a spacious plain, the greater portion of which is scarcely above the
+level of the water: at short distances, however, there are some of the
+most interesting ruins in the kingdom, in the midst of scenery of
+surpassing loveliness. Of these, the tourist should first visit
+Carrig-o-gunnel, next Adare, and then Castle Connell, the most beautiful
+of many beautiful places upon the banks of the noble Shannon.
+
+
+
+FROM BELFAST TO DUBLIN [Footnote: From "Letters of a Traveler."]
+
+BY WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT
+
+We left Glasgow on the morning of the 22d, and taking the railway to
+Ardrossan were soon at the beach. One of those iron steamers which
+navigate the British waters, far inferior to our own in commodious and
+comfortable arrangements, but strong and safe, received us on board, and
+at ten o'clock we were on our way to Belfast.
+
+The coast of Ayr, with the cliff near the birthplace of Burns, continued
+long in sight; we passed near the mountains of Arran, high and bare
+steeps swelling out of the sea, which had a look of almost complete
+solitude; and at length Ailsa Craig began faintly to show itself, high
+above the horizon, through the thick atmosphere.
+
+We passed this lonely rock, about which flocks of sea-birds, the solan
+goose, and the gannet, on long white wings with jetty tips, were
+continually wheeling, and with a glass we could discern them sitting by
+thousands on the shelves of the rock, where they breed. The upper part
+of Ailsa, above the cliffs which reach more than half-way to the summit,
+appears not to be destitute of soil, for it was tinged with a
+faint verdure.
+
+In about nine hours we had crossed the channel, over smooth water, and
+were making our way, between green shores almost without a tree, up the
+bay, at the bottom of which stands, or rather lies, for its site is low,
+the town of Belfast. We had yet enough of daylight left to explore a
+part at least of the city. "It looks like Albany," said my companion,
+and really the place bears some resemblance to the streets of Albany
+which are situated near the river, nor is it without an appearance of
+commercial activity.
+
+The people of Belfast, you know, are of Scotch origin, with some
+infusion of the original race of Ireland. I heard English spoken with a
+Scotch accent, but I was obliged to own that the severity of the Scotch
+physiognomy had been softened by the migration and the mingling of
+breed.... At an early hour the next day we were in our seats on the
+outside of the mail-coach. We passed through a well-cultivated country,
+interspersed with towns which had an appearance of activity and thrift.
+The dwellings of the cottagers looked more comfortable than those of the
+same class in Scotland, and we were struck with the good looks of the
+people, men and women, whom we passed in great numbers going to
+their work.
+
+At length, having traversed the county of Down, we entered Louth....
+Close on the confines of Armagh, perhaps partly within it, we traversed,
+near the village of Jonesborough, a valley full of the habitations of
+peat-diggers. Its aspect was most remarkable, the barren hills that
+inclose it were dark with heath and gorse and with ledges of brown rock,
+and their lower declivities, as well as the level of the valley, black
+with peat, which had been cut from the ground and laid in rows.
+
+The men were at work with spades cutting it from the soil, and the women
+were pressing the water from the portions thus separated, and exposing
+it to the air to dry.... It is the property of peat earth to absorb a
+large quantity of water, and to part with it slowly. The springs,
+therefore, in a region abounding with peat make no brooks; the water
+passes into spongy soil and remains there, forming morasses even on the
+slopes of the hills.
+
+As we passed out of this black valley we entered a kind of glen, and the
+guard, a man in a laced hat and scarlet coat, pointed to the left, and
+said, "There is a pretty place." It was a beautiful park along a
+hillside, groves and lawns, a broad domain, jealously inclosed by a
+thick and high wall, beyond which we had, through the trees, a glimpse
+of a stately mansion.
+
+Our guard was a genuine Irishman, strongly resembling the late actor
+Power in physiognomy, with the very brogue which Power sometimes gave to
+his personages. He was a man of pithy speech, communicative, and
+acquainted apparently with everybody of every class, whom we passed on
+the road. Besides him we had for fellow-passengers three very
+intelligent Irishmen, on their way to Dublin. One of them was a tall,
+handsome gentleman, with dark hair and hazel eyes, and a rich
+South-Irish brogue. He was fond of his joke, but next to him sat a
+graver personage, in spectacles, equally tall, with fair hair and
+light-blue eyes, speaking with a decided Scotch accent. By my side was a
+square-built, fresh-colored personage, who had traveled in America, and
+whose accent was almost English. I thought I could not be mistaken in
+supposing them to be samples of the three different races by which
+Ireland is peopled.
+
+We now entered a fertile district, meadows heavy with grass, in which
+the haymakers were at work, and fields of wheat and barley as fine as I
+had ever seen.... One or two green mounds stood close to the road, and
+we saw others at a distance.
+
+"They are Danish forts," said the guard.
+
+"Every thing we do not know the history of, we put upon the Danes,"
+added the South of Ireland man.
+
+These grassy mounds, which are from ten to twenty feet in height, are
+now supposed to have been the burial places of the ancient Celts. The
+peasantry can with difficulty be persuaded to open any of them, on
+account of a prevalent superstition that it will bring bad luck.
+
+A little before we arrived at Drogheda, I saw a tower to the right,
+apparently a hundred feet in height, with a doorway at a great distance
+from the ground, and a summit somewhat dilapidated.
+
+"That is one of the round towers of Ireland, concerning which there is
+so much discussion," said my English-looking fellow-traveler.
+
+These round towers, as the Dublin antiquarians tell me, were probably
+built by the early Christian missionaries from Italy, about the seventh
+century, and were used as places of retreat and defense against
+the pagans.
+
+Not far from Drogheda, I saw at a distance a quiet-looking valley.
+
+"That," said the English-looking passenger, "is the valley of the Boyne,
+and in that spot was fought the famous battle of the Boyne."
+
+"Which the Irish are fighting about yet, in America," added the South of
+Ireland man.
+
+They pointed out near the spot, a cluster of trees on an eminence, where
+James beheld the defeat of his followers. We crossed the Boyne, entered
+Drogheda, dismounted among a crowd of beggars, took our places in the
+most elegant railway wagon we had ever seen, and in an hour were set
+down in Dublin.... I have seen no loftier nor more spacious dwellings
+than those which overlook St. Stephen's Green, a noble park, planted
+with trees, under which this showery sky and mild temperature maintain a
+verdure all the year, even in mid-winter. About Merrion square, another
+park, the houses have scarcely a less stately appearance, and one of
+these with a strong broad balcony, from which to address the people in
+the street, is inhabited by O'Connell. The park of the University, in
+the midst of the city, is of great extent, and the beautiful public
+grounds called Phenix Park, have a circumference of eight miles.
+
+
+
+THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY [Footnote: From "Views Afoot." Published by G. P.
+Putnam's Sons.]
+
+BY BAYARD TAYLOR
+
+We passed the Giant's Causeway after dark, and about eleven o'clock
+reached the harbor of Port Rush, where, after stumbling up a strange old
+street in the dark, we found a little inn, and soon forgot the Irish
+coast and everything else.
+
+In the morning, when we arose, it was raining, with little prospect of
+fair weather, but having expected nothing better, we set out on foot for
+the Causeway. The rain, however, soon came down in torrents, and we were
+obliged to take shelter in a cabin by the roadside. The whole house
+consisted of one room with bare walls and roof and earthen floor, while
+a window of three or four panes supplied the light. A fire of peat was
+burning on the hearth, and their breakfast, of potatoes alone, stood on
+the table. The occupants received us with rude but genuine hospitality,
+giving us the only seats in the room to sit upon; except a rickety
+bedstead that stood in one corner and a small table, there was no other
+furniture in the house. The man appeared rather intelligent, and, altho
+he complained of the hardness of their lot, had no sympathy with
+O'Connell or the Repeal movement.
+
+We left this miserable hut as soon as it ceased raining, and, tho there
+were many cabins along the road, few were better than this. At length,
+after passing the walls of an old church in the midst of older tombs, we
+saw the roofless towers of Dunluce Castle on the seashore. It stands on
+an isolated rock, rising perpendicularly two hundred feet above the sea,
+and connected with the cliffs of the mainland by a narrow arch.
+
+We left the road near Dunluce and walked along the smooth beach to the
+cliffs that surround the Causeway. Here we obtained a guide, and
+descended to one of the caves which can be entered from the shore.
+Opposite the entrance a bare rock called Sea Gull Isle rises out of the
+sea like a church-steeple. The roof at first was low, but we shortly
+came to a branch that opened on the sea, where the arch was forty-six
+feet in height. The breakers dashed far into the cave, and flocks of
+sea-birds circled round its mouth. The sound of a gun was like a
+deafening peal of thunder, crashing from arch to arch till it rolled out
+of the cavern.
+
+On the top of the hill a splendid hotel is erected for visitors to the
+Causeway; after passing this we descended to the base of the cliffs,
+which are here upward of four hundred feet high, and soon began to find
+in the columnar formation of the rocks indications of our approach. The
+guide pointed out some columns which appeared to have been melted and
+run together, from which Sir Humphrey Davy attributed the formation of
+the Causeway to the action of fire. Near this is the Giant's Well, a
+spring of the purest water, the bottom formed by three perfect hexagons
+and the sides of regular columns. One of us observing that no giant had
+ever drunk from it, the old man answered. "Perhaps not, but it was made
+by a giant--God Almighty!"
+
+From the well the Causeway commences--a mass of columns from triangular
+to octagonal, lying in compact forms and extending into the sea. I was
+somewhat disappointed at first, having supposed the Causeway to be of
+great height, but I found the Giant's Loom, which is the highest part of
+it, to be but about fifty feet from the water. The singular appearance
+of the columns and the many strange forms which they assume render it,
+nevertheless, an object of the greatest interest. Walking out on the
+rocks, we came to the Ladies' Chair, the seat, back sides and foot-stool
+being all regularly formed by the broken columns. The guide said that
+any lady who would take three drinks from the Giant's Well, then sit in
+this chair and think of any gentleman for whom she had a preference,
+would be married before a twelvemonth. I asked him if it would answer as
+well for gentlemen, for by a wonderful coincidence we had each drank
+three times at the well. He said it would, and thought he was confirming
+his statement.
+
+A cluster of columns about half-way up the cliff is called the Giant's
+Organ from its very striking resemblance to that instrument, and a
+single rock worn by the waves into the shape of a rude seat is his
+chair. A mile or two farther along the coast two cliffs project from the
+range, leaving a vast semicircular space between, which from its
+resemblance to the old Roman theaters was appropriated for that purpose
+by the giant. Halfway down the crags are two or three pinnacles of rock
+called the Chimneys, and the stumps of several others can be seen,
+which, it is said, were shot off by a vessel belonging to the Spanish
+Armada in mistake for the towers of Dunluce Castle. The vessel was
+afterward wrecked in the bay below, which has ever since been called
+Spanish Bay, and in calm weather the wreck may be still seen. Many of
+the columns of the Causeway have been carried off and sold as pillars
+for mantels, and tho a notice is put up threatening any one with the
+rigor of the law, depredations are occasionally made.
+
+Returning, we left the road at Dunluce and took a path which led along
+the summit of the cliffs. The twilight was gathering and the wind blew
+with perfect fury, which, combined with the black and stormy sky, gave
+the coast an air of extreme wildness. All at once, as we followed the
+winding path, the crags, appeared to open before us, disclosing a
+yawning chasm down which a large stream falling in an unbroken sheet was
+lost in the gloom below. Witnessed in a calm day, there may perhaps be
+nothing striking about it, but coming upon us at once through the gloom
+of twilight, with the sea thundering below and a scowling sky above, it
+was absolutely startling.
+
+The path at last wound with many a steep and slippery bend down the
+almost perpendicular crags to the shore at the foot of a giant isolated
+rock having a natural arch through it, eighty feet in height. We
+followed the narrow strip of beach, having the bare crags on one side
+and a line of foaming breakers on the other. It soon grew dark; a
+furious storm came up and swept like a hurricane along the shore. I then
+understood what Horne means by "the lengthening javelins of the blast,"
+for every drop seemed to strike with the force of an arrow, and our
+clothes were soon pierced in every part.
+
+Then we went up among the sand-hills and lost each other in the
+darkness, when, after stumbling about among the gullies for half an hour
+shouting for my companions, I found the road and heard my call answered;
+but it happened to be two Irishmen, who came up and said, "And is it
+another gintleman ye're callin' for? We heard some one cryin' and didn't
+know but somebody might be kilt."
+
+Finally, about eleven o'clock, we all arrived at the inn dripping with
+rain, and before a warm fire concluded the adventures of our day
+in Ireland.
+
+
+
+CORK [Footnote: From "The Irish Sketch Book."]
+
+BY WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY.
+
+One sees in this country many a grand and tall iron gate leading into a
+very shabby field covered with thistles; and the simile of the gate will
+in some degree apply to this famous city of Cork--which is certainly not
+a city of palaces, but of which the outlets are magnificent. That toward
+Killarney leads by the Lee, the old Avenue of Mardyke, and the rich
+green pastures stretching down to the river; and as you pass by the
+portico of the country jail, as fine and as glancing as a palace, you
+see the wooded heights on the other side of the fair stream, crowded
+with a thousand pretty villas and terraces, presenting every image of
+comfort and prosperity.
+
+Along the quays up to St. Patrick's Bridge there is a certain bustle.
+Some forty ships may be lying at anchor along the walls of the quay;
+and its pavements are covered with goods of various merchandise; here a
+cargo of hides; yonder a company of soldiers, their kits, and their
+dollies, who are taking leave of the redcoats at the steamer's side.
+Then you shall see a fine, squeaking, shrieking drove of pigs embarking
+by the same conveyance, and insinuated into the steamer by all sorts of
+coaxing, threatening, and wheedling. Seamen are singing and yeehoing on
+board; grimy colliers smoking at the liquor-shops along the quay; and as
+for the bridge-there is a crowd of idlers on that, you may be sure,
+sprawling over the balustrade for ever and ever, with long ragged coats,
+steeple-hats, and stumpy doodeens.
+
+At the other extremity of the town, if it be assize time, you will see
+some five hundred persons squatting in the Court-house, or buzzing and
+talking within; the rest of the respectable quarter of the city is
+pretty free from anything like bustle. There is no more life in Patrick
+Street than in Russell Square of a sunshiny day; and as for the Mall, it
+is as lonely as the chief street of a German Residenz.... That the city
+contains much wealth is evidenced by the number of handsome, villas
+round about it, where the rich merchants dwell; but the warehouses of
+the wealthy provision-merchants make no show to the stranger walking the
+streets; and of the retail shops, if some are spacious and handsome,
+most look as if too big for the business carried on within. The want of
+ready money was quite curious. In three of the principal shops I
+purchased articles, and tendered a pound in exchange--not one of them
+had silver enough; and as for a five-pound note, which I presented at
+one of the topping booksellers, his boy went round to various places in
+vain, and finally set forth to the bank, where change was got. In
+another small shop I offered half-a-crown to pay for a sixpenny
+article--it was all the same.
+
+Half a dozen of the public buildings I saw were spacious and shabby
+beyond all cockney belief. Adjoining the Imperial Hotel is a great,
+large, handsome, desolate reading-room, which was founded by a body of
+Cork merchants and tradesmen, and is the very picture of decay. Not
+Palmyra--not the Russell Institution in Great Coram Street--present more
+melancholy appearances of faded greatness. Opposite this is another
+institution, called the Cork Library, where there are plenty of books
+and plenty of kindness to the stranger; but the shabbiness and faded
+splendor of the place are quite painful.... I have said something in
+praise of the manners of the Cork ladies; in regard of the gentlemen, a
+stranger must remark the extraordinary degree of literary taste and
+talent among them, and the wit and vivacity of their conversation. The
+love for literature seems to an Englishman doubly curious. What,
+generally speaking, do a company of grave gentlemen and ladies in Baker
+Street know about it? Who ever reads books in the City, or how often
+does one hear them talked about at a Club? The Cork citizens are the
+most book-loving men I ever met. The town has sent to England a number
+of literary men, of reputation too, and is not a little proud of their
+fame. Everybody seemed to know what Maginn was doing, and that Father
+Prout had a third volume ready, and what was Mr. Croker's last article
+in the Quarterly. The clerks and shopmen seemed as much "au fait" as
+their employers, and many is the conversation I heard about the merits
+of this writer or that--Dickens, Ainsworth, Lover, Lever.
+
+I think, in walking the streets, and looking at the ragged urchins
+crowding there, every Englishman must remark that the superiority of
+intelligence is here, and not with us. I never saw such a collection of
+bright-eyed, wild, clever, eager faces. Mr. Maclise has carried away a
+number of them in his memory; and the lovers of his admirable pictures
+will find more than one Munster countenance under a helmet in company of
+Macbeth, or in a slashed doublet alongside of Prince Hamlet, or in the
+very midst of Spain in company with Signor Gil Blas. Gil Blas himself
+came from Cork, and not from Oviedo.
+
+I listened to two boys almost in rags: they were lolling over the quay
+balustrade, and talking about one of the Ptolemys! and talking very well
+too. One of them had been reading in Rollin, and was detailing his
+information with a great deal of eloquence and fire. Another day,
+walking in the Mardyke, I followed three boys, not half so well drest as
+London errand-boys: one was telling the other about Captain Ross's
+voyages, and spoke with as much brightness and intelligence as the
+best-read gentleman's son in England could do. He was as much of a
+gentleman, too, the ragged young student; his manner as good, tho
+perhaps more eager and emphatic; his language was extremely rich, too,
+and eloquent. Does the reader remember his school-days, when half a
+dozen lads in the bedrooms took it by turns to tell stories? How poor
+the language generally was, and how exceedingly poor the imagination!
+Both of those ragged Irish lads had the making of gentlemen, scholars,
+orators, in them.
+
+I have just been strolling up a pretty little height called Grattan's
+Hill, that overlooks the town and the river, and where the artist that
+comes Corkward may find many subjects for his pencil. There is a kind of
+pleasure-ground at the top of this eminence--a broad walk that draggles
+up to a ruined wall, with a ruined niche in it, and a battered stone
+bench. On the side that shelves down to the water are some beeches, and
+opposite them a row of houses from which you see one of the prettiest
+prospects possible--the shining river with the craft along the quays,
+and the busy city in the distance, the active little steamers puffing
+away toward Cove, the farther bank crowned with rich woods, and
+pleasant-looking country-houses--perhaps they are tumbling, rickety, and
+ruinous, as those houses close by us, but you can't see the ruin
+from here.
+
+What a strange air of forlorn gaiety there is about the place!--the sky
+itself seems as if it did not know whether to laugh or cry, so full is
+it of clouds and sunshine. Little fat, ragged, smiling children are
+clambering about the rocks, and sitting on mossy doorsteps, tending
+other children yet smaller, fatter, and more dirty. "Stop till I get you
+a posy" (pronounced pawawawsee), cries one urchin to another. "Tell me
+who is it ye love, Jooly," exclaims another, cuddling a red-faced infant
+with a very dirty nose. More of the same race are perched about the
+summerhouse, and two wenches with large purple feet are flapping some
+carpets in the air. It is a wonder the carpets will bear this kind of
+treatment at all, and do not be off at once to mingle with the elements;
+I never saw things that hung to life by such a frail thread.
+
+This dismal pleasant place is a suburb of the second city in Ireland,
+and one of the most beautiful spots about the town. What a prim,
+bustling, active, green-railinged, tea-gardened, gravel-walked place
+would it have been in the five-hundredth town in England!--but you see
+the people can be quite as happy in the rags and without the paint, and
+I hear a great deal more heartiness and affection from these children
+than from their fat little brethren across the Channel.
+
+
+
+BLARNEY CASTLE [Footnote: From "Ireland: Its Scenery, Character, Etc."]
+
+BY ME. AND MRS. S. C. HALL
+
+Few places in Ireland are more familiar to English ears than Blarney;
+the notoriety is attributable, first, to the marvelous qualities of its
+famous "stone," and next, to the extensive popularity of the song,--
+
+  "The groves of Blarney, they are so charming."
+
+When or how the stone obtained its singular reputation, it is difficult
+to determine; the exact position among the ruins of the castle is also a
+matter of doubt; the peasant-guides humor the visitor according to his
+capacity for climbing, and direct, either to the summit or the base, the
+attention of him who desires to "greet it with a holy kiss." He who has
+been dipt in the Shannon is presumed to have obtained, in abundance, the
+gift of that "civil courage" which makes an Irishman at ease and
+unconstrained in all places and under all circumstances; and he who has
+kissed the Blarney stone is assumed to be endowed with a fluent and
+persuasive tongue, altho it may be associated with insincerity; the term
+"Blarney" being generally used to characterize words that are meant
+neither to be "honest nor true."
+
+It is conjectured that the comparatively modern application of the term
+"Blarney" first had existence when the possessor, Lord Clancarty, was a
+prisoner to Sir George Carew, by whom he was subjected to several
+examinations touching his loyalty, which he was required to prove by
+surrendering his strong castle to the soldiers of the Queen; this act he
+always endeavored to evade by some plausible excuse, but as invariably
+professing his willingness to do so. The particulars are fully detailed
+in the "Pacata Hibernia."
+
+It is certain that to no particular stone of the ancient structure is
+the marvelous quality exclusively attributed; but in order to make it as
+difficult as possible to attain the enviable gift, it had long been the
+custom to point out a stone, a few feet below the battlements, which the
+very daring only would run the hazard of touching with their lips. The
+attempt to do so was, indeed, so dangerous, that a few years ago Mr.
+Jeffreys had it removed from the wall and placed on the highest point of
+the building; where the visitor may now greet it with little risk. It is
+about two feet square, and contains the date 1703, with a portion of the
+arms of the Jeffreys family, but the date, at once, negatives its claim
+to be considered the true marvel of Blarney. A few days before our visit
+a madman made his way to the top of the castle, and after dancing round
+it for some hours, his escape from death being almost miraculous, he
+flung this stone from the tower; it was broken in the fall, and now, as
+the guide stated to us, the "three halves" must receive three distinct
+kisses to be in any degree effective.
+
+The stronghold of Blarney was erected about the middle of the fifteenth
+century by Cormac Mac Carthy, surnamed "Laider," or the Strong; whose
+ancestors had been chieftains in Munster from a period long antecedent
+to the English invasion, and whose descendants, as Lords of Muskerry and
+Clancarty, retained no inconsiderable portion of their power and estates
+until the year 1689, when their immense possessions were confiscated,
+and the last earl became an exile, like the monarch whose cause he had
+supported. The castle, village, mills, fairs, and customs of Blarney,
+with the land and park thereunto belonging, containing 1400 acres, were
+"set up by cant" in the year 1702, purchased by Sir Richard Pyne, Lord
+Chief Justice, for £3000, and by him disposed of, the following year, to
+General Sir James Jeffreys, in whose family the property continues.
+Altho the walls of this castle are still strong, many of the outworks
+have long since been leveled; the plow has passed over their
+foundations, and "the stones of which they were built have been used in
+repairing the turnpike-roads."
+
+
+
+MUCROSS ABBEY [Footnote: From "Ireland: Its Scenery, Character, Etc."]
+
+BY MR. AND MRS. S. C. HALL
+
+The abbey of Mucross adjoins the pretty village of Cloghreen, [in Kerry]
+and is in the demesne of Henry Arthur Herbert, Esq., which includes the
+whole of the peninsula. The site was chosen with the usual judgment and
+taste of "the monks of old," who invariably selected the pleasantest of
+all pleasant places. The original name was Irelough--and it appears that
+long prior to the erection of this, now ruined structure, a church
+existed in the same spot, which was consumed by fire in 1191. The abbey
+was built for Franciscan monks, according to Arehdall, in 1440; but the
+annals of the Four Masters give its date a century earlier: both,
+however, ascribe its foundation to one of the Mac Carthys, princes of
+Desmond. It was several times repaired, and once subsequently to the
+Reformation, as we learn from the inscription on a stone let into the
+north wall of the choir.
+
+The building consists of two principal parts--the convent and the
+church. The church is about one hundred feet in length and twenty-four
+in breadth; the steeple, which stands between the nave and the chancel,
+rests on four high and slender pointed arches. The principal entrance is
+by a handsome pointed doorway, luxuriantly overgrown with ivy, through
+which is seen the great eastern window. The intermediate space, as
+indeed every part of the ruined edifice, is filled with tombs, the
+greater number distinguished only by a slight elevation from the mold
+around them; but some containing inscriptions to direct the stranger
+where especial honor should be paid. A large modern tomb, in the center
+of the choir, covers the vault, in which in ancient times were interred
+the Mac Carthys Mor, and more recently the O'Donoghue Mor of the Glens,
+whose descendants were buried here so late as the year 1833.
+
+Close to this tomb, but on a level with the earth, is the slab which
+formerly covered the vault. It is without inscription, but bears the
+arms of the Earl of Clancarty. The convent as well as the church is in
+very tolerable preservation; and Mr. Herbert has taken especial care, as
+far as he can, to balk the consumer, time, of the remnants of his
+glorious feast. He has repaired the foundations in some parts and the
+parapets in others, and so judiciously that the eye is never annoyed by
+the intrusion of the new among the old; the ivy furnishing him with a
+ready means for hiding the unhallowed brick and mortar from the sight.
+In his "caretaker," too, he has a valuable auxiliary; and a watch is
+set, first to discover tokens of decay, then to prevent their spread,
+and then to twist and twine the young shoots of the aged trees over and
+around them.
+
+The dormitories, the kitchen, the refectory, the cellars, the infirmary,
+and other chambers, are still in a state of comparative preservation;
+the upper rooms are unroofed; and the coarse grass grows abundantly
+among them. The great fireplace of the refectory is curious and
+interesting--affording evidence that the good monks were not forgetful
+of the duty they owed themselves, or of the bond they had entered into,
+to act upon the advice of St. Paul, and be "given to hospitality." This
+recess is pointed out as the bed of John Drake--a pilgrim who, about a
+century ago, took up his abode in the Abbey, and continued its inmate
+during a period of several years. As will be supposed, his singular
+choice of residence has given rise to abundant stories, and the mention
+of his name to any of the guides or boatmen will at once produce a
+volume of the marvelous.
+
+The cloister, which consists of twenty-two arches, ten of them
+semicircular and twelve pointed, is the best preserved portion of the
+abbey. In the center grows a magnificent yew-tree, which covers, as a
+roof, the whole area; its circumference is thirteen feet, and its height
+in proportion. It is more than probable that the tree is coeval with the
+abbey; that it was planted by the hands of the monks who built the
+sacred edifice centuries ago. The yew, it is known, lives to a
+prodigious age; and in England, there are many of a date considerably
+earlier than that which may be safely assigned to this.
+
+
+
+FROM GLENGARIFF TO KILLARNEY [Footnote: From "The Irish Sketch Book."]
+
+BY WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY
+
+The journey from Glengariff to Kenmare is one of astonishing beauty; and
+I have seen Killarney since, and am sure that Glengariff loses nothing
+by comparison with this most famous of lakes. Rock, wood, and sea
+stretch around the traveler--a thousand delightful pictures; the
+landscape is at first wild without being fierce, immense woods and
+plantations enriching the valleys--beautiful streams to be seen
+everywhere.
+
+Here again I was surprized at the great population along the road; for
+one saw but few cabins, and there is no village between Glengariff and
+Kenmare. But men and women were on banks and in fields; children, as
+usual, came trooping up to the car; and the jovial men of the yacht had
+great conversations with most of the persons whom we met on the road. A
+merrier set of fellows it were hard to meet.
+
+After much mountain-work of ascending and descending (in which latter
+operation, and by the side of precipices that make passing cockneys
+rather squeamish, the carman drove like mad to the hooping and
+screeching of the red rovers), we at length came to Kenmare, of which
+all that I know is that it lies prettily in a bay or arm of the sea;
+that it is approached by a little hanging-bridge, which seems to be a
+wonder in these parts; that it is a miserable little place when you
+enter it; and that, finally, a splendid luncheon of all sorts of meat
+and excellent cold salmon may sometimes be had for a shilling at the
+hotel of the place.... For almost half the way from Kenmare, this wild,
+beautiful road commands views of the famous lake and vast blue mountains
+about Killarney. Turk, Tomies, and Mangerton were clothed in purple like
+kings in mourning; great heavy clouds were gathered round their noble
+features bare. The lake lay for some time underneath us, dark and blue,
+with dark misty islands in the midst. On the right-hand side of the road
+would be a precipice covered with a thousand trees, or a green rocky
+flat, with a reedy mere in the midst, and other mountains rising as far
+as we could see.... And so it was that we rode by dark old Mangerton,
+then presently past Mucross, and then through two miles of avenues of
+lime-trees, by numerous lodges and gentlemen's seats, across an old
+bridge, where you see the mountains again and the lake, until, by Lord
+Kenmare's house, a hideous row of houses informed us that we were in
+Killarney.
+
+We rattled up to the Kenmare Arms; and so ended, not without a sigh on
+my part, one of the merriest six-hour rides that five yachtsmen, one
+cockney, five women and a child, the carman, and a countryman with an
+alpeen, ever took in their lives. The town of Killarney was in a violent
+state of excitement with a series of horse-races, hurdle-races,
+boat-races, and stag-hunts by land and water, which were taking place,
+and attracted a vast crowd from all parts of the kingdom. All the inns
+were full, and lodgings cost five shillings a day, nay, more in some
+places; for tho my landlady, Mrs. Macgillicuddy, charges but that sum, a
+leisurely old gentleman whom I never saw in my life before made my
+acquaintance by stopping me in the street yesterday, and said he paid a
+pound a day for his two bedrooms.... Mrs. Macgillicuddy's house is at
+the corner of the two principal streets in Killarney town, and the
+drawing-room windows command each a street. A sort of market is held
+there, and the place is swarming with blue cloaks and groups of men
+talking; here and there is a stall with coarse linens, crockery, a
+cheese; and crowds of egg-and milk-women are squatted on the pavement,
+with their ragged customers or gossips. Carts, cars, jingles, barouches,
+horses, and vehicles of all descriptions rattle presently through the
+streets; for the town is crowded with company for the races and other
+sports, and all the world is bent to see the stag-hunt on the lake.
+
+The morning had been bright enough, but for fear of accidents we took
+our macintoshes, and at about a mile from the town found it necessary to
+assume those garments and wear them for the greater part of the day.
+Passing by the Victoria, with its beautiful walks, park, and lodge, we
+came to a little creek where the boats were moored; and there was the
+wonderful lake before us, with its mountains, and islands, and trees.
+Unluckily, however, the mountains happened to be invisible; the islands
+looked like gray masses in the fog, and all that we could see for some
+time was the gray silhouette of the boat ahead of us, in which a
+passenger was engaged in a witty conversation with some boat still
+farther in the mist.
+
+Drumming and trumpeting was heard at a little distance, and presently we
+found ourselves in the midst of a fleet of boats upon the rocky shores
+of the beautiful little Innisfallen. Here we landed for a while, and the
+weather clearing up, allowed us to see this charming spot. Rocks,
+shrubs, and little abrupt rises and falls of ground, covered with the
+brightest emerald grass; a beautiful little ruin of a Saxon chapel,
+lying gentle, delicate, and plaintive on the shore; some noble trees
+round about it, and beyond, presently, the tower of Ross Castle, island
+after island appearing in the clearing sunshine, and the huge hills
+throwing their misty veils off, and wearing their noble robes of purple.
+The boats' crews were grouped about the place, and one large barge
+especially had landed some sixty people, being the Temperance band, with
+its drums, trumpets, and wives. They were marshaled by a grave old
+gentleman with a white waistcoat and queue, a silver medal decorating
+one side of his coat, and a brass heart reposing on the other flap. The
+horns performed some Irish airs prettily; and, at length, at the
+instigation of a fellow who went swaggering about with a pair of
+whirling drumsticks, all formed together, and played "Garryowen"--the
+active drum of course most dreadfully out of time.
+
+Having strolled about the island for a quarter of an hour, it became
+time to take to the boats again, and we were rowed over to the wood
+opposite Sullivan's cascade, where the hounds had been laid in in the
+morning, and the stag was expected to take water. Fifty or sixty men are
+employed on the mountain to drive the stag lakeward, should he be
+inclined to break away; and the sport generally ends by the stag, a wild
+one, making for the water with the pack swimming afterward; and here he
+is taken and disposed of, how I know not. It is rather a parade than a
+stag-hunt; but, with all the boats around and the noble view, must be a
+fine thing to see.
+
+Some scores more boats were there, darting up and down in the pretty,
+busy waters. Here came a Cambridge boat; and where, indeed, will not the
+gentlemen of that renowned University be found? Yonder were the dandy
+dragoons, stiff, silent, slim, faultlessly appointed, solemnly puffing
+cigars. Every now and then a hound would he heard in the wood, whereon
+numbers of voices, right and left, would begin to yell in
+chorus--Hurroo! Hoop! Yow--yow--yow! in accents the most shrill or the
+most melancholious. Meanwhile the sun had had enough of the sport, the
+mountains put on their veils again, the islands retreated into the mist,
+the word went through the fleet to spread all umbrellas, and ladies took
+shares of mackintoshes and disappeared under the flaps of silk cloaks.
+
+The wood comes down to the very edge of the water, and many of the crews
+thought fit to land and seek this green shelter. To behold these moist
+dandies the natives of the country came eagerly. Strange, savage faces
+might be seen peering from out of the trees; long-haired, bare-legged
+girls came down the hill, some with green apples and very sickly-looking
+plums; some with whisky and goat's milk; a ragged boy had a pair of
+stag's-horns to sell: the place swarmed with people. We went up the hill
+to see the noble cascade, and when you say that it comes rushing down
+over rocks and through tangled woods, alas! one has said all the
+dictionary can help you to, and not enough to distinguish this
+particular cataract from any other. This seen and admired, we came back
+to the harbor where the boats lay, and from which spot the reader might
+have seen the following view of the lake--that is, you would see the
+lake, if the mist would only clear away.
+
+But this for hours it did not seem inclined to do. We rowed up and down
+industriously for a period of time which seemed to me atrociously long.
+The bugles of the Erin had long since sounded "Home, sweet home!" and
+the greater part of the fleet had dispersed. As for the stag-hunt, all I
+saw of it was four dogs that appeared on the shore at different
+intervals, and a huntsman in a scarlet coat, who similarly came and
+went: once or twice we were gratified by hearing the hounds; but at last
+it was agreed that there was no chance for the day, and we rowed off to
+Kenmare Cottage--where, on the lovely lawn, or in a cottage adjoining,
+the gentry picnic, and where, with a handkerchief full of potatoes, we
+made as pleasant a meal as ever I recollect.
+
+What is to be said about Turk Lake? When there, we agreed that it was
+more beautiful than the larger lake, of which it is not one-fourth the
+size; then, when we came back, we said, "No, the large lake is the most
+beautiful." And so, at every point we stopped at, we determined that
+that particular spot was the prettiest in the whole lake. The fact is,
+and I don't care to own it, they are too handsome. As for a man coming
+from his desk in London or Dublin and seeing "the whole lakes in a day,"
+he is an ass for his pains; a child doing sums in addition might as well
+read the whole multiplication table, and fancy he had it by heart. We
+should look at these wonderful things leisurely and thoughtfully; and
+even then, blessed is he who understands them.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Seeing Europe with Famous Authors
+by Francis W. Halsey
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+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SEEING EUROPE WITH FAMOUS AUTHORS ***
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