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diff --git a/old/10136.txt b/old/10136.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6df54a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/10136.txt @@ -0,0 +1,67002 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Book of Household Management, by Mrs. +Isabella Beeton + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Book of Household Management + +Author: Mrs. Isabella Beeton + +Release Date: November 19, 2003 [eBook #10136] +[Last updated: July 4, 2012] + +Language: English + +Chatacter set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT*** + + +E-text prepared by Jonathan Ingram, Sandra Brown, and Project Gutenberg +Distributed Proofreaders + + + +THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT; + +Comprising Information for the + +MISTRESS, +HOUSEKEEPER, +COOK, +KITCHEN-MAID, +BUTLER, +FOOTMAN, +COACHMAN, +VALET, +UPPER AND UNDER HOUSE-MAIDS, +LADY'S-MAID, +MAID-OF-ALL-WORK, +LAUNDRY-MAID, +NURSE AND NURSE-MAID, +MONTHLY, WET, AND SICK NURSES, +ETC. ETC. + +ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMORANDA; + +WITH A HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN, PROPERTIES, AND USES OF ALL THINGS +CONNECTED WITH HOME LIFE AND COMFORT. + +BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON. + + + + + + + + Nothing lovelier can be found + In Woman, than to study household good.--MILTON. + + + + +Published Originally By +S. O. Beeton in 24 Monthly Parts +1859-1861. + +First Published in a Bound Edition 1861. + + + + +PREFACE. + +I must frankly own, that if I had known, beforehand, that this book +would have cost me the labour which it has, I should never have been +courageous enough to commence it. What moved me, in the first instance, +to attempt a work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which I +had seen brought upon men and women by household mismanagement. I have +always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family +discontent than a housewife's badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Men +are now so well served out of doors,--at their clubs, well-ordered +taverns, and dining-houses, that in order to compete with the +attractions of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted +with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as be perfectly +conversant with all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable +home. + +In this book I have attempted to give, under the chapters devoted to +cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the +_ingredients_, a plain statement of the _mode_ of preparing each dish, +and a careful estimate of its _cost_, the _number of people_ for whom it +is _sufficient_, and the time when it is _seasonable_. For the matter of +the recipes, I am indebted, in some measure, to many correspondents of +the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine," who have obligingly placed at my +disposal their formulas for many original preparations. A large private +circle has also rendered me considerable service. A diligent study of +the works of the best modern writers on cookery was also necessary to +the faithful fulfilment of my task. Friends in England, Scotland, +Ireland, France, and Germany, have also very materially aided me. I have +paid great attention to those recipes which come under the head of "COLD +MEAT COOKERY." But in the department belonging to the Cook I have +striven, too, to make my work something more than a Cookery Book, and +have, therefore, on the best authority that I could obtain, given an +account of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which we +use as food. I have followed the animal from his birth to his appearance +on the table; have described the manner of feeding him, and of slaying +him, the position of his various joints, and, after giving the recipes, +have described the modes of carving Meat, Poultry, and Game. Skilful +artists have designed the numerous drawings which appear in this work, +and which illustrate, better than any description, many important and +interesting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not without value. + +Besides the great portion of the book which has especial reference to +the cook's department, there are chapters devoted to those of the other +servants of the household, who have all, I trust, their duties clearly +assigned to them. + +Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the +"Management of Children"----"The Doctor," the latter principally +referring to accidents and emergencies, some of which are certain to +occur in the experience of every one of us; and the last chapter +contains "Legal Memoranda," which will be serviceable in cases of doubt +as to the proper course to be adopted in the relations between Landlord +and Tenant, Tax-gatherer and Tax-payer, and Tradesman and Customer. + +These chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully entitled to +confidence; those on medical subjects by an experienced surgeon, and the +legal matter by a solicitor. + +I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I have +received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, +that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have +expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen +and countrywomen. + +ISABELLA BEETON. + + + + +GENERAL CONTENTS + + +CHAP. + +I.--THE MISTRESS. + +2.--THE HOUSEKEEPER. + +3.--ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN. + +4.--INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY. + +5.--GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS. + +6.--RECIPES. + +7.--THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES. + +8.--RECIPES. + +9.--SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.--GENERAL REMARKS. + +10.--RECIPES. + +11.--VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. + +12.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS. + +13.--RECIPES. + +14.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB. + +15.--RECIPES. + +16.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG. + +17.--RECIPES. + +18.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF. + +19.--RECIPES. + +20.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS. + +21.--RECIPES. + +22.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME. + +23.--RECIPES. + +24.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. + +25.--RECIPES. + +26.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. + +27.--RECIPES + +28.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLES, OMELETS, + AND SWEET DISHES. + +29--RECIPES. + +30.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONERY, ICES, +AND DESSERT DISHES. + +31.--RECIPES. + +32.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. + +33.--RECIPES. + +34.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES. + +35.--RECIPES. + +36.--GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES. + +37.--RECIPES. + +38.--INVALID COOKERY. + +39.--RECIPES. + +40.--DINNERS AND DINING. + +41.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS. + +42.--THE REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN, AND DISEASES OF + INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD. + +43.--THE DOCTOR + +44.--LEGAL MEMORANDA + + + + +ANALYTICAL INDEX. + +NOTE.--Where a "_p_" occurs before the number for reference, the +_page_, and not the paragraph, is to be sought. + +Accidents, injuries, &c. remarks on 2578 +Agreements 2705-7 +Alexanders 1108 +Alkalis 2654 +Allium, the genus 1129 +Allspice 438 +Almond, the 1219 + Bitter 1220 + Cake 1752 + Cheesecakes 1219 + Flowers 1316 + Icing for cakes 1735 + Paste, for second-course dishes 1220 + Pudding, baked 1221 + Puddings, small 1222 + Puffs 1223 + Soup 110 + Tree 110, 1487 + Uses of the Sweet 1221 +Almonds, and raisins 1605 + Husks of 1222 +Anchovy, the 226 + Butter 1637 + Butter or paste 227 + Paste 228 + Sauce 362 + Toast 228 +Anchovies, fried 226 + Potted 227 +Animals, period between birth and maturity 92 + Quality of the flesh of 93-5 + Saxon names of 709 + Tails of 640 + Tongues of 675 +Apoplexy 2634-6 +Apple, the 111 + Charlotte 1420 + Charlotte aux pommes 1418 + an easy method of making 1419 + Cheesecakes 1226 + Constituents of the 1229 + Custard, baked 1389 + Dumplings, baked 1225 + boiled 1227 + Fritters 1393 + Ginger 1424, 1516 + Jam 1517 + Jelly 1518-19 + clear 1396 + or marmalade 1395 + Pudding, baked, rich 1228 + more economical 1229 + very good 1231 + boiled 1232 + iced 1290 + rich, sweet 1230 + Sauce, brown 364 + for geese or pork 363 + Snow 1401 + Snowballs 1235 + Souffle 1402 + Soup 111 + Tart, creamed 1234 + or pie 1233 + Tourte or cake 1236 + Trifle 1404 + Universally popular 1236 + Uses of the 1225-6 +Apples, a la Portugaise 1398 + And rice 1400 + a pretty dish 1397 + Buttered 1390 + Compote of 1515 + Dish of 1603 + Flanc of 1391-2 + Ginger 1424 + Ices 1394 + In red jelly 1399 + Stewed, and custard 1403 + To preserve in quarters (imitation of ginger) 1520 +Apprentices 2724 +Apricot, cream 1405 + Jam or marmalade 1522 + Pudding 1238 + Qualities of the 1239 + Tart 1239 +Apricots, compote of 1521 + Flanc of 1406 +Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops 1738 + Blancmange 1407 +Arrowroot, Manufacture of 387, 1240 + Pudding, baked or boiled 1240 + Sauce for puddings 1356 + To make 1855 + What Miss Nightingale says of 1855 +Arsenic 2656 +Artichoke, composite or composite flowers of 1080 + Constituent properties of the 1083 + Jerusalem 1086 + Uses of the 1084 +Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1082 + A l'Italienne 1083 + Fried 1081 + Jerusalem, boiled 1084 + mashed 1085 + soup 112 + with white sauce 1086 + To boil 1080 +Asparagus, ancient notion of 114 + Boiled 1087 + Island 1087 + Medicinal uses of 1088 + Peas 1088 + Pudding 1089 + Sauce 365 + Soup 113-14 +Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366 +Attestation to wills 2750 + +Bachelor's omelet 1462 + Pudding 1241 +Bacon, boiled 804 + Broiled rashers of 803 + Curing of 822 + and keeping it free from rust 806-9 + in the Devonshire way 821 + in the Wiltshire way 805 + Fried rashers of, and poached eggs 802 +Bain-Marie 430 +Bakewell pudding, very rich 1242 + Plainer 1243 +Ball suppers _pp._ 957-8 +Bandoline, to make 2255 +Bantam, the 939 +Barbel, the 229 + To dress 229 +Barberries, in bunches 1523 +Barberry, description of the 1245 + Tart 1245 +Barley, 116 + Gruel 1856 + Soup 116 + Sugar 1524 + Water, to make 1857 +Baroness pudding 1244 +Basil 173 +Baths and fomentations, remarks on 2599 + Cold 2603 + Heat of 2600 + Warm and hot bath 2601 +Batter pudding, baked 1246 + with fruits 1247 + boiled 1248 + orange 1249 +Bay or laurel, varieties of 180 + Consecrated by priests 512 +Bean, haricot, the 1120 +Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor 1092 + French 1090 + Broad, a la poulette 1093 + French mode of cooking 1091 + Haricots and minced onions 1121 + blancs a la maitre d'hotel 1120 + blancs, or white haricots 1119 + and lentils 1119 + Nutritive properties of 1092 + Origin and varieties of 1093 +Bechamel, or French white sauce 367 + Maigre, or without meat 368 + Sauce 406 +Beef, aitchbone of, boiled 607 + to carve an _p._ 316 + A la mode 601-2 + Baked 598-9 + Baron of 679 + Bones, broiled 614 + Brisket of, a la Flamande 649 + to carve a _p._ 317 + to stew 649 + Broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 + oyster sauce 613 + Cake 610 + Carving _p._ 316 + Collared 617 + Collops 18 + minced 619 + Curried 620 + Different seasons for 611 + Dripping, to clarify 621-2 + Fillet of roast, larded 623 + French 649 + Frenchman's opinion of 626 + Fricandeau of 624 + Fried, salt 625 + Fritters 627 + Hashed 628-9 + Hung, to prepare 630 + Hunter's 631 + Kidney, to dress 632-4 + Marrow-bones boiled 635 + Minced 636 + Miriton of 637 + Names of the several joints 597 + Olives 650-1 + Palates, to dress 653 + Pickle for 654 + Potted 642-3 + Qualities of 599 + Ragout of 656 + Rib bones of 644 + Ribs of, boned and rolled, roast (joint for a small family) 658 + roast 657 + to carve _p._ 317 + Rissoles 615 + Roast 658 + Rolled 646 + Rolls 647 + Round of, boiled 608 + miniature 618 + to carve a _p._ 318 + Round of, to pickle part of a 655 + Rump of, stewed 670 + steak 666 + Sausages 662 + Seasons for 611 + Shin of, stewed 671 + Sirloin of, roast 659 + to carve a _p._ 317 + Sliced and broiled 664 + Spiced (to serve cold) 665 + Steak, a fried rump 626 + and kidney pudding 603 + oyster sauce 603 + broiled 611 + pie 604 + pudding, baked 650 + rolled, roasted, and stuffed 663 + stewed, and celery sauce 667 + with oysters 668 + with fried potatoes 606 + Tea, baked 1860 + savoury 1859 + to make 1858 + Tongue, boiled 673 + pickle for 641 + to carve a _p._ 318 + to cure a 674-5 + to pickle and dress a, to eat cold 676 + To salt 660 + Dutch way 661 +Beef-tea, Dr. Christison's 1859 + Miss Nightingale's opinion of 1858 +Beer, table 191 +Beetroot 1094 + Boiled 1094 + Pickled 369 +Benton sauce 370 +Bequests, legacies, &c. 2744-9 +Beverages, general observations on 1789, 1806 +Bills of fare, for January _pp._ 909-13 + February 914-17 + March 918-21 + April 922-25 + May 926-29 + June 930-33 + July 934-36 + August 937-39 + September 940-42 + October 943-45 + November 946-48 + December 949-52 + ball supper for 60 persons _p._ 957 + ball supper, cold collation, for a summer entertainment for 70 or 80 + persons _p._ 958 + breakfasts 959 + game dinner for 30 + persons _p._ 953 + luncheons and suppers _p._ 959 + menu, service a la Russe _pp._ 954-5 + picnic for 40 persons 960 + suppers _p._ 956 +Birds, general observations on 917-25 +Biscuit powder 1737 +Biscuits, arrowroot 1738 + Cocoa nut 1740 + Crisp 1741 + Dessert 1742 + Lemon 1743 + Macaroons 1744 + Ratafias 1745 + Remarks on 1712-15 + Rice 1746 + Rock 1747 + Savoy 1748 + Seed 1749 + Simple, hard 1750 + Soda 1751 +Bites and stings, general remarks on 2609 + of insects 2610-11 + of snakes 2612 + Of dogs 2613 +Blackcock, heathcock, &c. 1019 + Roast 1019 + To carve a 1054 +Blancmange 1408 + Arrowroot. 1407 + Cheap 1409 + Lemon 1442 + Rice 1476 +Bleeding, from the nose 2607 + Operation of 2605-6 +Blonde, to clean 2265 +Blood, spitting of 2608 +Boar's head, importance of the 815 + The Westphalian 787 +Bones, dislocation of 2614 + Fracture of 2615 +Bonnets 2244 +Books of account 2731 +Boots, polish for 2240-1 + Bottled fresh fruit 1542-3 + with sugar 1544 + Boudin, a la reine 961 + Brain, concussion of, stunning 2623 + Brandy, cherry 1526 + Lemon 460 + Orange 1826 + Varieties of 1328 +Bread, and bread-making 1668-1703 + And-butter fritters 1410 + pudding 1255 + Crumbs, fried 424 + Fried for borders 426 + Indian-corn-flour 1721 + Making in Spain 1776 + Origin of 117 + Properties of 1252 + Pudding, baked 1250 + boiled 1252 + brown 1253 + miniature 1254 + very plain 1254 + Rice 1720 + Sauce 371-2 + Sippets of, fried 425 + Soda 1722 +Bread, soup 117 + To make a peck of good 1719 + To make good home-made 1718 + To make yeast for 1716 +Breakfasts _p._ 959, _par_ 2144-6 +Breath, shortness of, or difficult breathing 2670 +Bride-cake, rich 1753 +Bridles 2218 +Brill, the 230 + To carve a _pp._ 175-6 +Brilla soup 166 +Brocoli, boiled 1095 +Broth, calf's-foot 1862 + Chicken 1863 + Eel 1866 + Mutton to make 1872 + Mutton to quickly make 1873 +Brown roux for thickening gravies 525 +Browning, for sauces and gravies 373 + For stock 108 +Bruises, lacerations, and cuts 2617 + Treatment of 2618 +Brushes, to wash 2250 +Brussels sprouts, boiled 1096 +Bubble-and-squeak 616 +Bullock's heart, to dress a 615 +Buns, light 1731 + Plain 1729 + To make good plain 1730 + Victoria 1732 +Burns and scalds 2619 + Treatment of the first class of 2620 + Treatment of the second class 2621 + Treatment of the third class 2622 +Butler, care of plate and house 2162 + Duties of the, at breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and dessert 2157-9 + luncheon, in the drawing-room 2161 + Lights, attention to 2160 + Wine, bottling 2167-70 + Wine, cellar 2163-5 + Wine, fining 2166 +Butter, anchovy 227,1637 + Antiquity of 1205 + Beurre noir, or brown butter (a French sauce) 374 + Clarified 375 + Colouring of 1636 + Curled 1635 + Easily digested 1255 + Fairy 1636 + General observations on 1615-19 + How to keep 1635 + How to keep fresh 1207 + In haste 1206 + Maitre d'hotel 465 + Melted 376-7 + Melted (the French sauce blanche) 378 + Melted made with milk 380 + Moulds for moulding fresh butter 1634 + Thickened 379 + To keep and choose, fresh 1632 + To preserve and to choose, salt 1633 + What to do with rancid 1208 +Cabbage, the 118 + Boiled 1098 + Colewort, or wild 1099 + Green kale, or borecole 1097 + Kohl-Rabi, or turnip 1095 + Qualities of the 1169 + Red, pickled 499 + Red, stewed 1099 + Savoy, and Brussels sprouts 1096 + Savoy, description of the 140 + Soup 118 + Tribe and their origin 1098 + Turnip tops and greens 1169 +Cabinet, or chancellor's pudding 1256 + Plain, or boiled bread-and-butter pudding 1257 +Cafe au lait 1812 + Noir 1813 +Cake, almond 1752 + Breakfast, nice 1739 + Bride or Christening 1753 + Christmas 1754 + Cocoa-nut 1740 + Economical 1756 + Good holiday 1763 + Honey 1758 + Lemon 1764 + Luncheon 1765 + Nice useful 1757 + Pavini 1771 + Plain 1766 + Plain for children 1767 + Plum, common 1768 + Plum, nice 1769 + Pound 1770 + Queen 1773 + Rice 1746, 1772 + Saucer, for tea 1774 + Savoy 1748, 1782 + Scrap 1779 + Seed, common 1775 + seed, very good 1776 + Snow 1777-8 + Soda 1781 + Sponge 1783-4 + Sponge Small, to make 1785 + Tea 1786 + Tea to toast 1787 + Tipsy 1487 + Tipsy an easy way of making 1488 + Yeast 1788 +Cakes, hints on making and baking 1704-11 +Calf, the 173 + Birth of the 893 + Breeding of the 858 + Fattening the 903 + Feeding a 862 + General observations on the 845-53 + In America 864 + Names of the 899 + Symbol of Divine power 890 + The golden 873 + When it should be killed 860 +Calf's feet, baked or stewed 1861 +Calf's feet, boiled with parsley and butter 860 +Calf's feet, broth 1862 +Calf's feet, fricasseed 861 + jelly 1416 + Head, a la Maitre d'hotel 864 + boiled 876-7 + collared 862 + club 867 + fricasseed 863 + hashed 878 + soup 167 + to carve a 913 + Liver and bacon 881 + aux fines herbes 880 + larded and roasted 882 + Udder, for French forcemeats 421 +Calomel 2658 +Camp-vinegar 381 +Canary-pudding 1258 +Candlesticks 2311 +Cannelons, or fried puffs 1417 +Caper-sauce, for boiled mutton 382 + For fish 383 + Substitute for 384 +Capercalzie, the 1026 +Capers 383 +Capsicums, pickled 385 +Carbonate of soda 1765 +Carp, the 242 + Age of the 243 + Baked 242 + Stewed 243 + Carpet sweeping 2312 + Carriages 2225-9 + Carrot, the 121 + Constituents of the 1101 + Jam, to imitate apricot preserve 1525 + Nutritive properties of the 1102 + Origin of the 1100 + Pudding, boiled or baked 1259 + Seed of the 1103 + Soup 120-1 + Varieties of the 1172 +Carrots, boiled 1100 + Sliced 1103 + Stewed 1102 + To dress in the German way 1101 +Carving, beef _p._ 316 + aitchbone of _p._ 316 + brisket of _p._ 317 + ribs of _p._ 317 + round of _p._ 318 + sirloin of _p._ 317 + Blackcock 1054 + Brill _pp._ 175-6 + Calf's head 913 + Codfish _p._ 174 + Duck 999 + wild 1055 + Fowl 1000-1 + Goose 1002 + Grouse 1058 + Ham 843 + Hare 1056 + Lamb 764-5 + Landrail 1063 + Mutton, haunch of 759 + leg of 760 + loin of 761 + mutton, saddle of 762 + shoulder of 763 + Partridge 1057 + Pheasant 1059 + Pigeon 1063 + Plover 1066 + Pork 842 + leg of 844 + Ptarmigan 1064 + Quail 1065 + Rabbit 1004 + Salmon _p._ 175 + Snipe 1060 + Soles _p._ 175 + Sucking-pig 842 + Teal 1067 + Tongue _p._ 318 + Turbot _p._ 175 + Turkey 1005 + Veal 854 + breast of 912 + fillet of 914 + knuckle of 915 + loin of 916 + Venison, haunch of 1061 + Widgeon 1068 + Woodcock 1062 +Cauliflower, description of the 1105 + Properties of the 1151 +Cauliflowers, a la sauce blanche 1105 + Boiled 1104 + With Parmesan cheese 1106 +Cayenne, varieties of 362 + Vinegar or essence of cayenne 386 +Celery, indigenous to Britain 122 + Origin of 1109 + Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387 + (a more simple recipe) 388 + Soup 122 + Stewed 1110 + a la creme 1108 + with white sauce 1109-10 + To dress 1107 + Various uses of 441, 1107 + Vinegar 389 +Champagne 1832 + Cup 1832 +Chanticleer and his companions 947 +Chantilly soup 123 +Char, the 243 +Charlotte apple, very simple 1420 + Aux pommes, an easy method of making 1418-19 + Russe 1421 +Cheese 1638 + Cayenne 1642 + Cream 1622 + Damson 1536 + Decomposed 1638 + Fondue 1643 + Brillat Savarin's 1644 + General observations on 1620-2 + Macaroni, as usually served with 1645-7 + Mode of serving 1640 + Pork 799 + _Paragraph_ + Pounded 1648 + Raisin 1587 + Ramakins, to serve with 1649-50 + Sandwiches 1641 + Scotch rarebit 1651 + Smoking 1640 + Stilton 1639 + Toasted, or Scotch rarebit 1651 + Welsh 1652 +Cheesecakes, almond 1219 + Apple 1226 + Lemon 1292 +Cherokee or store sauce 528 +Cherries, dried 1527 + Morello, to preserve 1561 + To preserve in syrup 1529 +Cherry, brandy 1526 + Jam 1528 + Sauce for sweet puddings 1357 + Tart 1261 + Tree in Rome 1561 + Varieties of the 1261 +Chervil, peculiarities of 129 +Chestnut sauce, brown 391 + for fowls or turkey 390 + Spanish, soup 124 + Uses of the 124 +Chicken, boiled 938 + Broth 1863 + Curried 942 + Cutlets 926 + French 927 + Fricasseed 945 + Or fowl patties 928 + pie 929 + Potted 930 + Pox, or glass-pox 2538-42 + Salad 931 +Chickens, age and flavour of 931 +Chili vinegar 393 +China chilo 712 +Chocolate, box of 1502 + Cream 1430 + History of 1430 + Souffle 1427 + To make 1807 +Cholera, and autumnal complaints 2624 +Christmas, cake 1754 + Plum-pudding, very good 1328 + Pudding, plain, for children 1327 +Christopher North's sauce for game or meat 394 +Chub, the 243 +Churning 2365 +Churns 2362 + Cleaning the 2368 +Cinnamon-tree, the 524 +Citron, uses of the 1329 + Varieties of the 1436 +Claret cup 1831 + Varieties of 1831 +Cleanings, periodical 2326-9 +Cleanliness, advantages of 2689 +Clothes, cleaning 2239 +Clove, derivation of the name 436 + Tree 367 +Coach-house and stables 2204 +Coach-house and stables, furniture of the 2209 + Harness-room 2208 + Heat of stables 2205 + Horse, the 2203 + Stalls 2207 + Ventilation of stables 2206 +Coachman, carriages 2225-9 + Choosing horses 2231 + Driving 2232 + Duties of the 2210 + Pace of driving 2230 + Whip, the 2233 +Cock-a-Leekie 134 +Cocoa and chocolate, various uses of 1807 + To make 1816 +Cocoa-nut, the 125 + Cakes or biscuits 1740 + Soup 125 +Cod, fecundity of the 241 + Food of the 237 + Habitat of the 239 + Method of preserving 233 + Season for fishing for the 240 + Sounds 234 + Tribe, the 231 +Codfish, the 231 + A la Bechamel 239 + creme 233 + A l'Italienne 241 + A la maitre d'hotel 240 + Curried 237 + Head and shoulders of 232 + to carve _p._ 174 + Pie 235-6 + Preserving 233 + Salt, (commonly called salt fish) 233 + Sounds 233 + en poule 234 + To choose 232 +Coffee, Cafe au lait 1812 + Cafe noir 1813 + Essence of 1808 + Miss Nightingale's opinion on 1865 + Nutritious 1864 + Plant 1811 + Simple method of making 1811 + To make 1810 + To roast 1809 +Cold-meat cookery:-- + Beef, baked 598-9 + bones, broiled 614 + broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 + oyster sauce 613 + bubble-and-squeak 616 + cake 610 + curried 620 + fried salt 625 + fritters 627 + hashed 628-9 + minced 636 + miriton of 637 + olives 651 + potted 613 + ragout 656 + rissoles 615 + rolls 647 + sliced and broiled 664 + stewed, and celery sauce 667 + with oysters 668 + Calf's head, a la maitre d'hotel 864 + fricasseed 863 + hashed 878 + Chicken, cutlets 927 + or fowl patties 928 + potted 930 + salad 931 + Duck, hashed 932 + stewed and peas 935 + turnips 937 + wild, hashed 1020 + ragout of 1021 + Fish, and oyster pie 257 + cake 258 + cod, a la Bechamel 239 + a la creme 238 + curried 237 + pie 235-6 + salmon, curried 305 + scallop 350-1 + turbot, a la creme 341 + au gratin 342 + fillets of, baked 339 + a l'Italienne 340 + Fowl, a la Mayonnaise 962 + boudin, a la Reine 961 + croquettes of 953-4 + fricasseed 946 + fried 947-8 + hashed 955 + Indian fashion 957 + Indian dish of 959 + minced 956 + a la Bechamel 950 + or chicken, curried 942 + ragout 951 + scollops 658 + saute, with peas 960 + Game, hashed 1023 + Goose, hashed 967 + Hare, broiled 1029 + hashed 1030 + Lamb, hashed, and broiled bladebone 749 + Mutton, baked minced 703 + broiled and tomato sauce 710 + collops 731 + curried 713 + cutlets 714 + dormers 715 + haricot 718 + hashed 719 + hodge-podge 720 + pie 733 + ragout of neck 736 + toad in hole 743 + Pork, cheese 796 + cutlets 796 + hashed 801 + Turkey, croquettes of 987 + fricasseed 988 + hashed 989 + Veal, baked 856 + cake 859 + collops, Scotch 870-1 + curried 865 + fillet of, au Bechamel 883 + loin of, au Bechamel 887 + minced 889-92 + olive pie 895 + patties, fried 896 + ragout of 900 + rissoles 901 + rolis 902 + tete de veau en tortue 911 + Venison, hashed 1050 +Cold, to cure a 2625 + On the chest 2626 +College pudding 1263 +Collops, cooking 871 + Scotch 870 + Scotch white 871 +Combs, to clean 2251 +Compote of, Apples 1515 + Apricots 1521 + Damsons 1537 + Figs, green 1541 + Gooseberries 1515 + Greengages 1551 + Oranges 1565 + Peaches 1572 +Compotes, to make syrup for 1512 +Confectionary, general observations on 1508 +Consomme, or white stock for many sauces 395 +Constructive notices 2699 +Convulsions or fits 2519-22 +Cook, duties of the cook, kitchen, and scullery-maids 79 + Early rising 80 + First duty of the 81 + General directions to the 75 + duties of the 82-4 +Cookery, cleanliness of utensils used in 72 + Excellence in the art of 78 + Explanation of French terms used in 87 + Introduction to 76 + Measures used in 77 +Copper 2659 +Coriander plant, the 174 +Corks, with wooden tops 446 +Corrosive sublimate 2657 +Cow, cheese 1652 + Heel, fried 639 + stock for jellies 1412 + Pox, or vaccination 2543-6 + or variola 906 +Cows, cost of keep for 2370 +Cowslip wine 1817 +Crab, hot 245 + Sauce, for fish 396 + To dress 244 + Tribe, the 245 +Crape, to make old look like new 2277 +Crayfish, the 246 +Crayfish, how preserved 193 + Potted 247 + Soup 193 +Cream, a la Valois 1422 + Apricot 1405 + Chocolate 1430 + Devonshire 1630 + Ginger 1432 + Italian 1437 + Lemon 1443 + economical 1444 + or custards 1446 + very good 1445 + Noyeau 1452 + Orange, Seville 1464 + sweet 1463 + Peculiarities of 1385 + Raspberry 1475 + Sauce for fish or white dishes 397 + Stone, of tous les mois 1483 + Swiss 1485 + To make ice fruit 1555 + Vanilla 1490 + Whipped 1492 +Creams, general observations on 1385 +Croquettes of, fowl 953-4 + Rice 1477 +Croup 2568 + Symptoms of 2569 + Treatment of 2570-3 +Crumpets 1728 +Crust, butter, for boiled puddings 1213 + Common, for raised pies 1217 + Dripping, for kitchen puddings and pies 1214 + For fruit tarts, very good 1210 + Lard or flead 1218 + Pate brisee, or French, for raised pies 1216 + Short, common 1212 + good 1211 + Suet, for pies and puddings 1215 +Cucumber, antiquity of the 127, 402 + Chate 1114 + Geographical distribution of the 1111 + Indigestible 1152 + Properties and uses of the 1113 + Sauce 398 + white 400 + Soup 127 + Vinegar (a very nice addition to salads) 491 +Cucumbers, a la poulette 1112 + Fried 1113 + For winter use 402 + Pickled 399 + Preserving (an excellent way) 403 + Stewed 1114 + with onions 1115 + To dress 1111 +Curds and whey 1629 +Currant, dumplings 1264 + Fritters 1429 + Jam, black 1530 + red 1532 + Jelly, black 1531 + red 1533 + white 1534 + Pudding, black or red 1266 + boiled 1265 + Red, and raspberry tart 1267 +Currants, iced 1558 + Uses of 1266 + Zante, description of 1264 +Curry powder 449 +Custard, apple, baked 1389 + Boiled 1423 + Creams, or lemon 1446 + Pudding, baked 1268 + boiled 1269 + Sauce for sweet puddings or tarts 404 + Tartlets, or Fanchonnettes 1315 +Cutlets, chicken 926 + French 927 + Invalid's 1865 + Lamb 747 + Mutton 732 + Italian 723 + of cold 714 + Pheasant 1040 + Pork 796-8 + Salmon 306 + Sauce for 513 + Veal 866 + a la Maintenon 868 + Cygnet, the 998 + +Dace, the 243 +Dairy, the 2358 + Butter, colouring of 2366 + milk 2368 + washing 2367 + Churning 2365 + Churns 2362 + Cleaning the churn, &c. 2368 + Cows, cost of keep for 2370 + Devonshire system 2369 + Hair sieve 2360 + Maid, charge of dairy produce 2371 + duties of the 2357 + Milk, dishes 2361 + general management of 2364 + pails 2359 + Situation of the 2363 +Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280 +Damson, the 1270 + A very nice preserve 1539 + Cheese 1536 + Jam 1538 + Pudding 1271 + Tart 1270 +Damsons, baked for winter use 1535 + Compote of 1537 + To preserve, or any other kind of plums 1540 +Darioles, a la vanille 1428 +Date, the 1605 +Debts 2755 + Estate chargeable with 2748 +Decanters, to clean 2198, 2336 +Deer, the 1049 + Fallow 1050 + Roebuck 1051 +Deer, stag 1051 +Delhi pudding 1272 +Dentition 2509 +Dessert, biscuits 1742 + Dishes 1598 + general remarks on 1509 +Devonshire, cream 1630 + Junket 1631 +Diarrhoea 2574-7 +Dilapidations 2718 +Dinners, and dining 1879-86 + A la Russe 2137-8 + menu p. 955 + Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18 persons, from January to December + _pp._ 909-52 + Bills of fare for game, for 30 persons _p_. 953 + Bills of fare for plain family _pp._ 913, 917, 921, 925, 929, 933, + 936, 939, 942, 945, 948, 952 +Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77 +Dishes, a hundred different 434 +Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6 +Dormers 715 +Downs, the 725 +Draught, for summer 1837 +Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6 +Drink for warm weather, pleasant 1836 +Dripping, to clarify 621-2 +Driving 2232-3 +Drowning, treatment after 2676 +Duck, the 932 + American mode of capturing the 936 + Aylesbury 935 + Bow-bill 936 + Buenos Ayres 933 + Eggs of the 934, 1658 + Fattening 936 + Hashed 932 + Hatching 935 + Man and dog, decoy 937 + Roast 934 + to carve a 999 + Rouen 934 + Snares in Lincolnshire 937 + Stewed, and peas 935-6 + and turnips 937 + To ragout a whole 933 + Varieties of the 933 + Wild, the 934, 937, 1022 + hashed 1020 + ragout of 1021 + roast 1022 + to carve a 1055 +Ducklings, cooping and feeding 935 +Dumplings, baked apple 1225 + Boiled apple 1227 + Currant 1264 + Lemon 1294 + Marrow 1306 + Sussex, or hard 1376 + Yeast 1383 +Dusting 2313 +Dutch flummery 1426 + Sauce, for fish 405 + Green, or Hollandaise verte 406 + +Eel, broth 1866 + Haunts of the 254 + Pie 253 + Productiveness of the 252 + Soup 194 + Tenacity of life of the 256 + The common 250 + Tribe, the 249 + Voracity of the 253 +Eels, a la Tartare 255 + Boiled 249 + Collared 254 + En matelote 256 + Fried 252 + Stewed 250-1 +Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408 + Sauce for salt fish 409 + Soup 128 + Wine 1867 +Eggs, a la maitre d'hotel 1660 + A la tripe 1667 + Boiled for breakfast, salads, &c. 1656 + Buttered 1657 + Ducks' 1658 + For hatching 927-28 + Fried 1659 + General remarks on 1623-6 + Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461 + Oeufs au plat, or au miroir 1661 + Plovers' 1662 + Poached 1663 + with cream 1664 + Primitive method of cooking 1658 + Quality of 1654-5 + Scotch 1666 + Snow, or oeufs a la neige 1482 + To choose 1654 + keep fresh for several weeks 1655 + pickle 407 + Veneration for 1659 + White of 1387 + Will crack if dropped in boiling water 1656 +Elderberry wine 1818 +Emetic, tartar 2660 +Empress pudding 1273 +Endive, a la Francaise 1118 + Genus of 1116 + Plant 169 + Stewed 1117 + To dress 1116 +Entree, beef or rump steak, stewed 666 + Beef, minced collops 619 + Boudin a la reine 961 + Calf's head, fricasseed 863 + liver, larded and roasted 882 + Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4 + cutlets 926 + or fowl, fricasseed 945 + Fowl, hashed 955 + saute with peas 960 + Lamb, cutlets 747 + sweetbreads and asparagus 757 + another way + to dress 758 + Lark pie 971 + Lobster-curry 274 +Entree, lobster cutlets 275 + patties 277 + Oyster patties 289 + Sweetbreads, baked 906 + fried 907 + stewed 908 + Veal cutlets 866 + a la Maintenon 868 + broiled 867 + collops 879 + fricandeau of 874-5 + tendons de veau 909-10 + tete de veau 911 + Vol au vent 1379 +Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287 +Epicurean sauce 410 +Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 411 +Everton toffee 1597 +Exeter pudding 1274 +Eye, lime in the 2629 + Sore 2628 + Stye in the 2630 + Substances in the 2627 +Eyelids, inflammation of the 2631 + +Fairy butter 1636 +Fanchonnettes, or custard tartlets 1315 +Fasting 2632 +Feathers 2284 +Fennel 412 + Sauce for mackerel 412 +Fig pudding 1275 +Figs, green, compote of 1541 +Fish, addendum and anecdote of _p_. 173 + And oyster pie 257 + As an article of human food 211-18 + Average prices 226 + Cake 258 + General directions for carving _p._.174-6 + dressing 219-25 + rule in choosing 226 + In season January to December _pp_. 33-7 + Kettle 338 + Pie with tench and eels 349 + Sauce 413, 512 + Scallop 350-1 + Soup 192 + Stock 192 + Supply of, for the London market 353 + To smoke at home 820 +Fishes, natural history of 199-210 +Fits 2633 + Apoplexy 2634-6 + and drunkenness, distinctions between 2638 + epilepsy, distinctions between 2637 + hysterics distinctions between 2639 + poisoning by opium, distinctions between 2640 + Epilepsy 2641 + Fainting 2642 + Hysterics 2643 + The consequence of dentition 2519-22 +Fixtures 2713 +Fleece, the golden 715 +Floorcloth, to clean 2335 +Flounder, the 259 +Flounders, boiled 259 + Fried 260 +Flour, nutritious qualities of 1218 +Flowers, to preserve cut 2289 + after packing 2290 +Flummery, Dutch 1426 +Fomentations 2602-3 +Fondue, Brillat Savarin's 1644 + To make 1643 +Food for infants, and its preparation 2499, 2508 +Footgear 2245 +Footman, boot-cleaning 2174 + Boot tops 2176 + Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3 + Brushing clothes 2180 + Decanters 2198 + Dinner 2185-6 + Dinners a la Russe 2188 + Dress and livery 2172 + During dinner 2191 + Early rising 2173 + Furniture-rubbing 2179 + General duties 2171 + Glass-washing 2197-8 + Going out with the carriage 2190 + Knives 2177 + Lamp-trimming 2178 + Letters and messages 2200 + Luncheon, duties at 2184 + Management of work 2196 + Manners, modesty, &c. 2190 + Opening wine 2192 + Pantry 2195 + Patent leather boots 2175 + Politeness 2201 + Receptions and evening parties 2202 + Removal of dishes 2193 + Salt-cellars 2187 + Tea 2194 + Waiting at table 2189 + Where a valet is not kept 2182 +Forcemeat, balls for fish soups 414 + Boiled calf's udder for French 421 + For baked pike 413 + cold savoury pies 415 + various kinds of fish 416 + veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417 + French 419-20 + Or quenelles, for turtle soup, Soyer's receipt for 423 + Oyster 489 +Fowl, a la Mayonnaise 962 + And rice croquettes 953 + Boiled 938 + a la Bechamel 943 + to carve 1000 + with oysters 944 + rice 940 + Boudin a la reine 961 + Broiled and mushroom sauce 939 + Croquettes 954 + Curried 941-2 + Fricasseed 945-6 + Fried 947-8 + Hashed 955 + an Indian dish 957 + House, the 944 + stocking the 945 + Indian dish of 950 + Minced 956 + a la Bechamel 950 + Pillau 963 + Poulet aux cressons 964 + a la Marengo 949 + Ragout of 951 + Roast 952 + stuffed 965 + to carve a 1001 +Saute, with peas 960 + Scallops 958 + To bone for fricassees 995 +Fowls, a la Marengo 949 + As food 926 + Bantam 939 + feather-legged 958 + Best to fatten 951 + way to fatten 948 + Black Spanish 962 + Characteristics of health and power 946 + Chip in 953 + Cochin China 942 + Common, or domestic 926 + Diseases of, and how to cure 952 + Dorking 940 + Eggs for hatching 927 + Feeding and cooping 930 + Game 938 + Guinea 970 + Hatching 928 + Moulting season, the 956 + Obstruction of the crop 955 + Pencilled Hamburg 965 + Poland 941 + Scour, or Dysentery in 957 + Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the Sultan 963 + Sir John Sebright's bantams 961 + Sitting 927 + Skin disease in 955 + Space for 943 + Speckled Hamburg 959 + "Turn" in 954 + Various modes of fattening 948 + Young 929 +Freezing apparatus, method of working the 1290 +French terms used in cookery 87 +Fritters, apple 1393 + Beef 627 + Bread-and-butter 1410 + Currant 1429 + Indian 1435 + Orange 1465 + Peach 1469 + Pineapple 1472 + Plain 1473 + Potato 1474 + Rice 1478 +Fruit, dish of mixed 1601 + summer 1604 + Fresh to bottle 1542-3 + Ice creams, to make 1555 + In season, January to December _pp._ 33-7 + Spots, to remove 2270 + To bottle with sugar 1544 + Turnovers 1278 + Water ices, to make 1556 +Fuel 73 +Fungi, analysis of 1128 + Varieties of 1124 +Furniture cleaning 2307, 2313 + Gloss, German 2339 + Polish 2308-9 +Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284 + +Game, general observations on 1006-18 + Hashed 1023 + In season, January to December _pp._ 33-7 +Garlic 392 +Geneva wafers 1431 +Genevese sauce 427 +German pudding 1279 + or Dampfnudeln 1280 +Gherkins, or young cucumbers 428 + Pickled 428 +Giblet pie 965 + Soup 168 +Gilt frames, to brighten 2337 +Ginger, apples 1424 + Beer 1833 + Cream 1432 + Preserved 1432 + Pudding 1281 + Qualities of 407 + Wine 1819 +Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1759 + Sunderland 1761 + Thick 1769 + White 1762 +Glaize, cold joints to 430 + For covering cold hams, tongues, &c 430 + Kettle 430 +Godfrey's cordial 2663 + +Golden fleece, order of the 708, 715 + Pudding 1282 +Goose, Brent 966 + Description of the 968 + Egyptian 969 + Hashed 967 + Roast 968 + to carve a 1002 + Stuffing for (Soyer's) 505 + To dress a green 969 + Wild 967 +Gooseberries, compote of 1546 +Gooseberry, the 1285 + Fool 1433 + Indigenous to British isles 429 + Jam 1547-8 + white or green 1549 + Jelly 1550 + Pudding, baked 1283 +Gooseberry pudding, boiled 1284 + Sauce for boiled mackerel 429 + Tart 1285 + Trifle 1434 + Vinegar 1820 + Wine, effervescing 1821 +Grapes, qualities of 1601 +Grates 2298, 2299, 2338 +Gravy, a quickly-made 434 + Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435 + Brown 436 + without meat 437 + Cheap, for minced veal 443 + hashes 440 + For roast meat 433 + venison 444 + General stock for 432 + Jugged, excellent 441 + Kettle 432 + Made without meat, for fowls 439 + Orange 488 + Rich, for hashes and ragouts 438 + Roux, for thickening brown 525 + white 526 + Soup 169 + Veal, for white sauces, fricassees 442 +Greengage jam 1552 +Greengages, compote of 1551 + To preserve dry 1553 + in syrup 1554 +Green sauce 431 +Greens, boiled, turnip 1169 + Turnip-tops, and cabbage 1169 +Groom, bridles 2218 + Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223 + Duties of the 2211 + Exercising the horses 2213 + Feeding the horses 2214-15 + Harness 2219 + cleaning old 2221-2 + paste 2220 + Shoeing 2217 + Watering horses 2212, 2216 + Wheel-grease 2224 +Grouse, description of the 1625-26 + Pie 1024 + Roast 1025 + Salad 1026 + To carve a 1058 +Gruel, barley 1836 + To make 1868 +Gudgeon, the 261 + Habitat of the 261 +Guinea-fowl, description of the 970 + Roast 970 +Guinea-pig, the 997 +Gurnet, the 262 + To dress 262 + +Haddock, habitat of the 263 + Finnan 266 + Weight of the 264 +Haddocks, baked 263 + Boiled 264 + Dried 265-6 +Hair-dressing 2248-9 +Hair, pomade for 2253-4 + To promote growth of 2257 + Wash for 2252 +Ham, fried and eggs 843 + Omelet 1457 + Potted 814-5 + To bake a 810 + boil a 811 + carve a 843 + give it an excellent flavour 812 + glaize 430 +Hams, curing of 822 + For curing 816 + To cure in the Devonshire way 821 + sweet, in the Westmoreland way 818 + pickle 819 + salt two 817 + smoke at home 820 +Hare, broiled 1029 + Extreme timidity of the 1027 + Hashed 1030 + Jugged 1031-2 + Potted 1028 + Roast 1027 + Soup 170 + To carve a 1056 + The common 170 +Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1121 + Blancs a la maitre d'hotel 1120 + Mutton 716-17-18 + To boil blancs, or white haricot beans 1119 +Harness, cleaning old 2221-2 + Paste 2220 + Room, the 2208 +Heart, palpitation of the 2646 +Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and foxglove 2664 +Herbs, to dry for winter use 445 + Powder of, for flavouring 446 + Sweet 417 +Heradotus pudding 1287 +Herring, the 268 + Red 267 +Herrings, baked, white 268 + Red, or Yarmouth bleaters 267 + To choose 268 +Hessian soup 171 +Hidden mountain, the 1438 +Hodge-podge 191, 720 +Hog, antiquity of the 826, 834 + Fossil remains of the 829 + General observations on the common 765-95 + In England 837 + Not bacon 807 + Universality of the 833 + Wild and domestic 823 +Holly leaves, to frost 1545 +Honey cake 1758 +Hooping cough 2468, 2564 + Symptoms of 2565 + Treatment of 2566-7 +Horse, the 2203 +Horses, choosing 2231 + Exercising 2213 +Horses feeding 2224-15 + Watering 2212, 2216 +Horseradish, the 447 + Medical properties of the 1122 + Sauce 447 + Vinegar 448 +Hot spice 524 +Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61 + General duties of the 55 + Knowledge of cookery 57 + Necessary qualifications for a 56 +Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306, 2323-4 + Bright grates 2298 + Candlestick and lamp-cleaning 2330 + Carpet-sweeping 2312 + Chips broken off furniture 2330 + Cleanings, periodical 2326-9 + Dress of the 2319 + Dusting 2313 + Duties after dinner 2321 + evening 2322 + general 2292-4 + Fire-lighting 2296-7 + Furniture-cleaning 2307, 2313 + General directions to the 2300-5 + Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning 2316 + Laying dinner-table 2314-5 + Marble, to clean 2333-4 + Needlework 2325 + Plate, to clean 2317 + rags for daily use 2318 + Upper and under 2291 + Waiting at table 2320 + Recipe, Brunswick black, to make 2295 + cement for joining broken glass or china 2331-2 + decanters, to clean 2336 + floorcloth, to clean 2335 + furniture gloss, German 2339 + paste 2310 + polish 2308-9 + gilt frames, to brighten 2337 + grates and fire irons, to preserve from rust 2338 + polish for bright grates 2299 +Hunter's pudding 1288 +Husband and wife 2725-9 +Hysterics 2643 + +Ice, fruit creams, to make 1555 + Lemon-water 1557 + To ice, or glaze pastry 1334 +Iced, apple pudding 1290 + Apples, or apple hedgehog 1394 + Currants 1558 + Oranges 1564 + Pudding 1289 +Ices, fruit-water, to make 1556 + General observations on 1510-11 +Icing, for cakes, almond 1735 + sugar 1736 +Indian, Chetney sauce 452 + Corn-flour bread 1721 + Curry powder 449 + Fritters 1435 + Mustard 450 + Pickle 451 + Trifle 1436 +Infant, the 2460-2577 +Ink-spots, to remove 2271 +Invalid cookery, rules to be observed in 1841-54 +Invalid's cutlet, the 1865 + Jelly 1869 + Lemonade 1870 +Insurance 2708-10 +I. O. U., the 2723 +Irish stew 721-2 +Ironing 2282, 2393-6 +Isinglass 1413 +Italian, cream 1437 + Mutton cutlets 723 + Rusks 1733 + Sauce, brown 453 + white 451 + +Jam, apple 1517 + Apricot, or marmalade 1522 + Carrot 1525 + Cherry 1528 + Currant, black 1530 + red 1538 + Damson 1538 + Gooseberry 1547-8 + white or green 1549 + Greengage 1552 + Omelet 1460 + Plum 1580 + Raspberry 1588 + Rhubarb 1590 + and orange 1591 + Roly pudding 1291 + Strawberry 1594 +Jaunemange 1439 +Jelly, apple 1518-19 + clear 1396 + thick, or marmalade 1395 + Bag, how to make 1411 + Bottled, how to mould 1414 + Calf's foot 1416 + Cow-heel, stock for 1412 + Currant, black 1531 + red 1533 + white 1534 + General observations on 1386 + Gooseberry 1550 + Invalid's 1869 + Isinglass or gelatine 1413 + Lemon 1447 + Liqueur 1449 + Moulded with fresh fruit 1440 + with slices of orange 1455 + Of two colours 1441 + Open with whipped cream 1453 + Orange 1454 + Quince 1585 + Raspberry 1589 + Savoury, for meat pies 521 + Stock for, and to clarify it 1411 + Strawberry 1484 + To clarify syrup for 1415 +Jewels 2286 +John dory, the 248 + To dress the 248 +Joints, injuries to 2616 +Julienne, soup a la 191 +Junket, Devonshire 1631 + +Kale brose 132 +Kegeree 269 +Ketchup, mushroom 472 + Oyster 490 + Walnut 535-6 +Kettles for fish 338 +Kidney and beefsteak pudding 605 + Omelet 1458 +Kidneys, broiled 724 + Fried 725 +Kitchen, distribution of a 62 + Essential requirements of the 70 + Fuel for the 73 + Ranges 65-6 + Maid, duties of the 85 + Necessity for cleanliness 72 + Scullery maid, duties of the 86 + Utensils, ancient and modern 69 + list of for the 71 +Kitchens of the Middle Ages 62 +Knives 2177 +Kohl Rabi, or turnip-cabbage 1095 + +Lace collars, to clean 2266 +Lady's maid, arranging the dressing room 2246-7 + Attention to bonnets 2244 + Chausserie, or foot-gear 2245 + Dressing, remarks on 2258-9 + Duties of the 2213, 2260-2 + when from home 2280 + evening 2281 + Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287 + Fashions, repairs, &c 2263 + Hairdressing 2248 + lessons in 2249 + Ironing 2282 + Jewels 2286 + Linen, attention to 2278 + Packing 2279 + Rules of conduct 2288 + Recipe, bandoline, to make 2255 + Blonde, to clean 2265 + Brushes, to wash 2250 + Combs, to clean 2251 + Crape, to make old look like new 2277 + Essence of lemon, use of 2274 + Flowers, to preserve cut 2289 + to revive after packing 2290 + Fruit-spots, to remove 2270 + Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284 + Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials, to remove 2268 + from silks or moires, to remove 2269 + Hair, a good pomade for the 2253-4 + Hair, a good wash for the 2253 + to promote the growth of 2257 + Lace collars, to clean 2266 + Moths, preservatives against the ravages of 2285 + Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276 + Pomatum, an excellent 2256 + Ribbons or silk, to clean 2275 + Scorched linen to restore 2283 + Stains of syrup or preserved fruit, to remove 2273 + To remove ink-spots 2271 + Wax, to remove 2272 +Lamb, as a sacrifice 744 + Breast of, and green peas 744 + stewed 745 + Carving 761 + Chops 746 + Cutlets and spinach 747 + Fore quarter, to carve a 764 + to roast a 750 + Fry 748 + General observations on the 698-702 + Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 749 + Leg of, boiled 751 + roast 752 + Loin of, braised 753 + Saddle of 754 + Shoulder of 755 + stuffed 756 +Lamb's sweetbreads, larded 757 + another way to dress 758 +Lambswool, or lamasool 1227 +Lamp-cleaning 2178,2311 +Lamprey, the 256 +Landlord and tenant, relations of 2700 +Landrail or corn-crake 1033 + Roast 1033 + To carve 1063 +Lard, to melt 625 +Larding 828 +Lark-pie 971 +Larks, roast 972 +Laundry, situation of, and necessary apparatus 2373-4 + Maid, cleaning and washing utensils 2386 + General duties of the 2372 + Ironing 2393-6 + Mangling and ironing 2387-9 + Rinsing 2379 + Soaking linen 2376 + Sorting linen 2375 + Starch, to make 2391-2 + Starching 2390 + Washing 2377-8 + coloured muslins, &c 2380 + flannels 2381 + greasy cloths 2382 + satin and silk ribbons 2384 + silk handkerchiefs 2383 + silks 2385 +Laurel, or bay 180 +Law, general remarks on 2694 +Lead, and its preparations 2661 +Leamington sauce 459 +Lease, breaks in the 2711 +Leases, general remarks on 2702-4 +Leek, badge of the Welsh 134 + Soup 133 +Legacies 2751-4 + Bequests, &c 2744-9 +Legal memoranda 2694-2751 +Lemon, anti venomous 455 + Biscuits 1743 + Blancmange 1442 + Brandy 460 + Cake 1764 + Cheesecakes 1292 + Cream 1443 + (economical) 1444 + Creams 1445 + or custards 1446 + Dumplings 1294 + Essence of 2274 + Fruit of the 405 + Jelly 1447 + Juice of the 456 + Mincemeat 1293 + Pudding, baked 1295-7 + boiled 1298 + plain 1299 + Rind or peel 460 + Sauce for boiled fowls 457 + for sweet puddings 1358 + Sponge 1448 + Syrup 1822 + Thyme 458 + To pickle with the peel on 455 + without the peel 456 + Water ice 1557 + White sauce for fowls or fricassees 458 + Uses of the 1296 + Wine 1823 +Lemonade 1834 + For invalids 1870 + Most harmless of acids 1834 + Nourishing 1871 +Lentil, the 126 +Lettuce, corrective properties of the 136 + Varieties of the 1123 +Lettuces, to dress 1123 +Leveret, to dress a 1034 +Liaison 461 +Lightning, treatment after a person has been struck by 2677 +Linen, attention to 2278 + Scorched, to restore 2283 + Soaking 2376 + Sorting 2375 +Liqueur Jelly 1449 +Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462 + And parsley sauce for poultry 463 + Complaints and spasms 2644 +Lobster, the 270 + A la mode Francaise 273 + Ancient mode of cooking the 275 + Celerity of the 273 + Curry (an entree) 274 + Cutlets (an entree) 275 + Hot 271 + How it feeds 278 + Local attachment of the 277 + Patties (an entree) 277 + Potted 278 + Salad 272 + Sauce 464 + Shell of the 272 + Soup 195 + To boil 270 + To dress 276 +Lumbago 2645 +Luncheon cake 1765 +Luncheons and suppers 2147-48 +Lungs, respiration of 2453-6 + +Macaroni, as usually served with cheese course 1645-7 + Manufacture of 135, 1301 + Pudding, sweet 1301 + Soup 135 + Sweet dish of 1450 +Macaroons 1744 +Mace 371 +Macedoine de fruits 1440 +Mackerel, the 281 + Baked 279 + Boiled 280 + Broiled 281 + Fillets of 282 + Garum 283 + Pickled 283 + To choose 281 + Weight of the 279 + Voracity of the 282 +Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast 2344 + dinner 2350-1 + Bedrooms, attention to 2352 + daily work in 2345 + Before retiring to bed 2354 + Breakfast, preparation for 2343 + Cleaning hall 2342 + Cooking dinner 2346 + Early morning duties 2341 + General duties 2340 + routine 2353 + Knife-cleaning 2351 + Laying dinner-cloth 2347 + Needlework, time for 2356 + Waiting at table 2348-9 + Washing 2355 +Maigre, soup 136 +Maitre d'hotel 465 + butter 465 + sauce (hot) 466 + +Maize 1721 + Cobbett a cultivator of 1174 + Or Indian wheat, boiled 1174 +Malt wine 1824 +Manchester pudding 1300 +Mangling and ironing 2387-9 +Mango chetney, Bengal recipe for making 392 +Manna kroup pudding 1302 + Qualities of 1302 +Mansfield pudding 1303 +Marble, to clean 2333-4 +Marjoram, species of 173, 415 +Marlborough pudding 1304 +Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305 + Of Apricots 1522 + Orange 1566-7 + an easy way of making 1568 + made with honey 1569 + Quince 1586 +Marrow, bones 635 + Boiled 635 + Dumplings 1306 + Pudding, boiled or baked 1307 +Mayonnaise 468 +Measles 2547-59 +Meat, action of salt on 607 + Bad 605 + Baking 665 + Good 602 + In season, January to December _pp_ 33-7 + Modes of cooking 540-84 + Pies, savoury jelly for 521 + To buy economically 726 +Meats, preserved 643 +Medical memoranda 2689-93 +Melon, description of the 1559 + Introduced into England 1115 + Uses of the 1559 +Melons 1569 +Meringues 1451 +Military puddings 1308 +Milk, and cream, separation of 1627 + to keep in hot weather 1628 + And suckling 2472-90 + Excellence of 1627 + General observations on 1608-14 + Or cream, substitute for 1815 + Qualities of 1628 + Soup 137 +Millet, Italian 1718 + Pannicled 1733 +Mince pies 1311 +Minced collops 619 +Mincemeat, to make 1309 + Excellent 1310 + Lemon 1293 +Mint 469 + Sauce 469 + Vinegar 470 +Mistress, after-dinner invitations 39 + Charity and benevolence, duties of 14 + Choice of acquaintances 6 + Cleanliness indispensable to health 4 + Conversation, trifling occurrences 9 + Daily duties 22-6 + Departure of guests 45-6 + Dessert 37-8 + Dinner announced 35 + Domestics, engaging 17 + giving characters to 20 + obtaining 18 + treatment of 19 + yearly wages, table of 21 +Mistress, dress and fashion 11 + of the 13 + Early rising 3 + Etiquette of evening parties 40-3 + the ball room 44 + Evenings at home 48 + Family dinner at home 47 + Friendships should not be hastily formed 7 + Good temper, cultivation of 10 + Guests at dinner-table 36 + Half-hour before dinner 34 + Home virtues 5 + Hospitality, excellence of 8 + Household duties 1-2 + House-hunting, locality, aspect, ventilation, rent 54 + Housekeeping account-book 16 + Introductions 51 + Invitations for dinner 33 + Letters of introduction 52-3 + Marketing 15 + Morning calls and visits 27-32 + Purchasing of wearing apparel 12 + Retiring for the night 49 +Mock-turtle soup 172-3 +Morello cherries, to preserve 1561 +Moths, preservatives against 2285 +Muffins 1727 +Mulberries, preserved 1360 +Mulberry, description of the 1360 +Mullagatawny soup 174 +Mullet, grey 284 + Red 285 +Muriatic acid 2651 +Mushroom, the cultivated 473 + Growth of the 476 + How to distinguish the 472 + Ketchup 472 + Localities of the 1126 + Nature of the 478 + Powder 477 + Sauce, brown 474 + very rich and good 479 + white 475-6 + Varieties of the 1125 +Mushrooms, baked 1124 + Broiled 1125 + Pickled 478 + Stewed 1127 + in gravy 1128 + To dry 473 + preserve 1126 + procure 1127 +Mustard 480 + How to mix 480 + Indian 480 + Tartar 481 +Mutton, baked minced 703 + Breast of, boiled 704 + (excellent way to cook a) 709 + Broiled, and tomato sauce 710 + Broth, quickly made 1873 + to make 1872 + Carving 759-63 + China chilo 712 +Mutton, chops, broiled 711 + Collops 731 + Curried 713 + Cutlets, of cold 714 + Italian 723 + with mashed potatoes 732 + Dormers 715 + Fillet of, braised 707 + Haricot 716-18 + Hashed 719 + Haunch of, roast 726 + to carve a 759 + Hodge-podge 720 + Irish stew 721-2 + Kidney, broiled 724 + fried 725 + Leg of, boiled 705 + boned and stuffed 706 + braised 708 + roast 727 + to carve a 760 + Loin of, to carve a 761 + roast 728 + rolled 729 + Neck of, boiled 730 + ragout of 736 + roast 737 + Pie 733-4 + Pudding 735 + Qualities of various 707 + Saddle of, roast 738 + to carve a 762 + Shoulder of, roast 739 + to carve a 763 + Soup, good 175 + +Nasturtium, uses of the 482 +Nasturtiums, pickled 482 +Nature and art in nursing 2445-2452 +Navet, description of the 1168 +Nectar, Welsh 1830 +Nectarines, preserved 1562 +Needlework 2325 +Negus, to make 1835 +Nesselrode pudding 1313 +Nitric acid 2650 +Normandy pippins, stewed 1563 +Notice to quit 2716 +Noxious trades 2712 +Noyeau cream 1452 + Homemade 1825 +Nurse, attention to children's dispositions 2401 + Carrying an infant 2398 + Convulsion fits 2406 + Croup 2407 + Dentition 2405 + General duties of the 2402-4 + Habits of cleanliness in children 2400 + Hooping-cough 2408 + Measles and scarlatina 2410-12 + Miss Nightingale's remarks on children 2414-5 + Worms 2409 +Nursemaids, upper and under 2397 +Nurse, Monthly, age of 2431 +Nurse, Monthly, attention to cleanliness + in the patient's room 2433 + Choice of a 2429 + Doctor's instructions must be observed 2430 + General duties of the 2432 + Infant must not be exposed to light or cold too early 2434 +Nurse, Sick, airing the bed 2425 + Attention to food 2427 + Bad smells must be removed 2422 + Cleanliness, necessity of 2421 + Diet suitable to the patient's taste 2428 + Duties of the 2416 + Necessity for pure air in the sick-room 2417 + Night air injurious, a fallacy 2426 + Opening of windows and doors 2418-9 + Patient must not be waked 2424 + Quiet in the patient's room 2423 + Ventilation necessary in febrile cases 2402 +Nurse, Wet, abstinence from improper food 2411 + Age of the 2439 + Diet of the 2442 + General remarks on the 2435-8 + Health and morality of the 2440 + Spirits, wines, and narcotics to be avoided 2443 +Nutmeg, the 378 +Nuts, dish of 1599 + hazel and filbert 1599 + +Olive and olive oil 506 +Omelet, au Thon 1494 + Aux confitures, or jam omelet 1460 + Bachelor's 1462 + Ham 1457 + Kidney 1458 + Plain, sweet 1459 + Souffle 1461 + The Cure's p. 753 + To make a plain 1456 +Onion before the Christian era 139 + History of the 485 + Origin of the 1131 + Properties of the 1130 + Sauce, brown 485 + or Soubise, French 483 + white 484 + Soup 138-9 +Onions, burnt, for gravies 1130 + Pickled 486-7 + Spanish, baked 1129 + pickled 527 + stewed 1131 +Open jam tart 1365 +Opium and its preparations 2662 +Orange, and cloves 1565 + Brandy 1826 + Cream 1463-4 + Fritters 1465 + Gravy 483 + In Portugal, the 1565 + Jelly 1454 +Orange, jelly, moulded with slices of orange 1455 + Marmalade 1566-7 + an easy way of making 1568 + made with honey 1569 + Pudding, baked 1314 + Salad 1571 + Seville 1464 + Tree, the first in France 1564 + Uses of the 1314 + Wine 1827 +Oranges, a pretty dish of 1466 + Compote of 1565 + Iced 1564 + To preserve 1570 +Ox, the 176 + Cheek, soup 176 + stewed 638 + Feet, or cowheel, fried 639 + Tail, broiled 652 + soup 177 + Tails, stewed 610 +Oxalic acid 2652 +Oyster, and scallop 288 + Excellence of the English 291 + Fishery 289 + Forcemeat 489 + Ketchup 490 + Patties 289 + Sauce 492 + Season 197 + Soup 196-7 + The edible 286 +Oysters, fried 286 + in batter 291 + Pickled 491 + Scalloped 287 + Stewed 288 + To keep 290 + +Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276 +Pan kail 140 +Panada 420 +Pancakes, French 1425 + Richer 1468 + To make 1467 +Parsley, and butter 493 + Fried 494 + How used by the ancients 123, 493 + Juice (for colouring various dishes) 495 + To preserve through the winter 496 +Parsnip, description of the 141, 1132 + Soup 141 +Parsnips, to boil 1132 +Partridge, the 178,1039 + Broiled 1035 + Hashed, or salmi de perdrix 1038 + Pie 1036 + Potted 1037 + Roast 1039 + Soup 178 + To carve a 1057 +Paste, almond 1220 + Common, for family pies 1207 + French puff, or feuilletage 1208 +Paste, medium puff 1206 + Soyer's recipe for puff 1209 + Very good puff 1205 +Pastry, and puddings, general observations on 1175-9 + Ramakins to serve with cheese course 1650 + Sandwiches 1318 + To ice or glaze 1334-5 +Patties, chicken or fowl 928 + Fried 896 + Lobster 227 + Oyster 289 +Pavini cake 1771 +Pea, origin of the 1133 + Soup 144 + green 142 + winter, yellow 143 + Sweet and heath or wood 1135 + Varieties of the 143, 1134 +Peas, green 1133 + a la Francaise 1134 + stewed 1135 +Peach, and nectarine 1572 + Description of the 1469 + Fritters 1469 +Peaches, compote of 1572 + Preserved in brandy 1573 +Pear 1574 + Bon Chretien 1576 +Pears, a l'Allemande 1470 + Baked 1574 + Moulded 1471 + Preserved 1575 + Stewed 1576 +Pepper, black 369 + Long 399 + Plant, growth of the 516 + White 366 +Perch, the 292 + Boiled 292 + Fried 293 + Stewed with wine 294 +Pestle and Mortar 421 +Petites bouches 1319 +Pheasant, the 1041 + Broiled 1043 + Cutlets 1040 + Height of excellence in the 1043 + Roast 1041 + Brillat Savarin's recipe for 1042 + Soup 179 + To carve a 1059 +Pickle, an excellent 497 + Beetroot, to 369 + Capsicums, to 385 + Cucumbers, to 399 + For tongues or beef 611 + Gherkins, to 428 + Indian (very superior) 451 + Lemons, to 456 + with the peel on 455 + Mixed 471 + Mushrooms, to 478 + Nasturtiums, to 482 + Onions, to 486-7 + Spanish, to 527 + Oysters, to 491 + Red cabbage, to 493 + Universal 533 + Walnuts, to 534 +Pickles of the Greeks and Romans 452 + Keeping 451 +Pie, apple, or tart 1233 + Beef-steak 604 + Chicken or fowl 929 + Eel 253 + Fish and oyster 257 + Giblet 966 + Grouse 1024 + Lark 971 + Mince 1311 + Mutton 733-4 + Partridge 1036 + Pigeon 975 + Pork, raised 835 + little 836 + Poultry or game, raised 1340 + Rabbit 981 + Sole or cod 322 + Tench and eel 349 + Veal 897 + and ham 898 + raised 1341 + olive 895 +Pig, Guinea 997 + How roast pig was discovered 841 + to silence a 812 + Novel way of recovering a stolen 819 + Sucking, to carve a 842 + roast 841 + to scald 840 + The learned 840 +Pig's cheeks, to dry 830 + Face, collared 823 + Fry, to dress 824 + Liver 831 + Pettitocs 832 +Pigs, Austrian mode of herding 796 + English mode of hunting and Indian sticking 800 + How pastured and fed formerly 805 +Pigeon, the 974 + Barb 976 + Breeding 974 + Carrier 974 + Fantail 976 + House or dovecot, aspect of 974 + Jacobin 976 + Necessity of cleanliness in the 974 + Nun 975 + Owl 976 + Pie 975 + Pouter 973 + Rock 976 + Runt 975 + To carve a 1003 + Trumpeter 975 + Tumbler 975 + Turbit 976 + Wood or wild 975 +Pigeons, broiled 973 + Roast 974 + Stewed 970 +Pike, the 293 + Baked 296 + Boiled 295 +Pineapple 1472, 1478 + Chips 1577 + Fritters 1472 + In Heathendom 1578 + Preserved 1578 + for present use 1579 +Pippins, stewed, Normandy 1563 +Plaice, the 298 + Fried 297 + Stewed 298 +Plate-cleaning 2317-18 +Plover, description of the 1044 + To carve a 1066 + dress a 1044 +Plovers' eggs 1626 +Plum, an excellent pudding 1325 + Cake, common 1768 + nice 1769 + Jam 1580 + Pudding, baked 1324 + Pudding sauce 499 + Tart 1331 +Plums 1330 + French, box of 1600 + stewed 1583 + Cultivation of 1582 + Origin of the names of 1580 + Preserved 1581 + To preserve dry 1582 +Poisonous food 2665 + Mushrooms 2666 +Poisons 2647 + Calomel 2658 + Copper 2659 + Emetic tartar 2656 + Lead, and its preparations 2661 + Opium and its preparations 2662 + Symptoms of having inhaled strong fumes of smelling salts 2655 + swallowed 2618 + alkalis 2654 + arsenic 2656 + corrosive sublimate 2657 + muriatic acid 2651 + nitric acid 2650 + oxalic acid 2652 + prussic acid 2653 + sulphuric acid 2649 + Syrup of poppies and Godfrey's cordial 2663 + Treatment after taking henbane hemlock, nightshade, or foxglove 2664 +Polish tartlets 1320 +Pomatum, an excellent 2256 +Pork, carving 842 + Cheese 799 + Cutlets 796 + Cutlets or chops 797-8 + Griskin of, roast 827 + Hashed 801 + Leg of, boiled 826 + roast 800 + to carve a 844 + Loin of, roast 829 + Pickled, to boil 834 + Pies 835 + little, raised 836 + Sausages, to make 837 + To pickle 833 +Portable soup 180 +Potato, the 147 + Analysis of 1138 + As an article of food 1148 + Bread 1141 + Fritters 1474 + Patty 1332 + Properties of the 1137 + Pudding 1333 + Qualities of the 1147 + Rissoles 1147 + Salad 1154 + Snow 1148 + Soup 145-6-7 + Starch 1139 + Sugar 1136 + Uses of the 1140 + Varieties of the 1146 +Potatoes, a la maitre d'hotel 1144 + Baked 1136 + Fried, French fashion 1142 + German way of cooking 1143 + How to use cold 1141 + Mashed 1145 + Preserving 1143 + Puree de pommes de terre 1146 + To boil 1137 + in their jackets 1138 + new 1139 + To steam 1140 +Potted beef 642-3 + Chicken or fowl 930 + Ham 815 + Hare 1028 + Partridge 1037 + Shrimps 312 + Veal 899 +Poulet, a la Marengo 949 + Aux cressons 964 +Poultry, in season, January to December _pp_. 33-7 +Pound cake 1770 +Pounded cheese 1648 +Prawn, the 198 + Soup 198 +Prawns or shrimps, buttered 313 + To boil 299 + To dress 300 +Prescriptions, general remarks on 2580 + Blister, an ordinary 2598 + Clyster 2582 + Draught 2581 + common black 2587 + Drugs, list of, necessary to carry out all instructions 2579 + Liniment 2583 + Lotion 2584 + Goulard 2585 + Opodeldoc 2586 + Mixtures, aperient 2588 + fever 2589 +Pills 2592 + compound iron 2591 + myrrh and aloes 2590 + Poultice 2604 + Abernethy's plan for + making a bread-and-water 2595 + linseed meal 2596 + mustard 2597 + Powders 2593 +Preserved, and dried greengages 1553 + Cherries in syrup 1529 + Damsons 1539 + or any other kind of plums 1540 + Ginger 1432 + Greengages in syrup 1554 + Morello cherries 1561 + Mulberries 1560 + Nectarines 1562 + Oranges 1570 + Peaches in brandy 1573 + Pineapple 1578 + Plums 1581 + Pumpkin 1584 + Strawberries in wine 1595 + whole 1596 +Preserves, general observations on 1495, 1507 +Primitive ages, simplicity of the 63-4 +Prince of Wales soup 148 +Property law 2696-8 +Prussic acid 2653 +Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045 + To carve a 1064 + To dress a 1045 +Pudding, Alma 1237 + Almond, baked 1221 + small 1222 + Apple, baked, very good 1231 + economical 1229 + rich 1228 + boiled 1232 + iced 1290 + rich sweet 1230 + Apricot, baked 1238 + Arrowroot, baked or boiled 1249 + Asparagus 1089 + Aunt Nelly's 1224 + Bachelor's 1241 + Bakewell 1242-3 + Baroness 1244 + Batter, baked 1246 + with dried or fresh fruit 1247 + boiled 1248 + Beefsteak and kidney 605 + baked 600 + Bread, baked 1250 + boiled 1252 + brown 1253 + Bread, miniature 1254 + very plain 1251 + Bread-and-butter, baked 1255 + Cabinet, or chancellor's 1256 + plain, or boiled bread-and-butter 1257 + Canary 1258 + Carrot, baked or boiled 1259 + Christmas, for children, plain 1327 + plum 1328 + Cold 1262 + College 1263 + Currant, black or red 1266 + boiled 1265 + Custard, baked 1268 + boiled 1269 + Damson 1271 + Delhi 1272 + Empress 1273 + Exeter 1274 + Fig 1275 + Staffordshire recipe 1276 + Folkestone pudding pies 1277 + German 1279 + or Dampfnudeln 1280 + Ginger 1281 + Golden 1282 + Gooseberry, baked 1283 + boiled 1284 + Half-pay 1286 + Herodotus 1287 + Hunter's 1288 + Iced 1289 + Lemon, baked 1295-7 + boiled 1298 + plain 1299 + Macaroni, sweet 1301 + Manchester 1300 + Manna kroup 1302 + Mansfield 1303 + Marlborough 1304 + Marmalade and vermicelli 1305 + Marrow, boiled or baked 1307 + Military 1308 + Monday's 1312 + Mutton 735 + Nesselrode 1313 + Orange, baked 1314 + batter 1249 + Paradise 1322 + Pease 1323 + Plum, an excellent 1325 + baked 1324 + fresh fruit 1330 + Potato 1333 + Pound, plum 1329 + an unrivalled 1326 + Quickly made 1366 + Raisin, baked 1336 + boiled 1337 + Rhubarb, boiled 1338 + Rice, baked 1342 + more economical 1343 + boiled with dried and fresh fruit 1345-6 + French, or gateau de riz 1352 + ground, boiled or baked 1353 + iced 1354 + miniature 1355 + plain, boiled 1344 + Roly-poly jam 1291 + Royal Coburg 1260 + Sago 1367 + Semolina, baked 1369 + Somersetshire 1374 + Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375 + Tapioca 1370 + Treacle, rolled 1372 + Toad-in-the-hole 672 + of cold meat 743 + Vermicelli 1377 + Vicarage 1378 + West Indian 1382 + Yorkshire 1384 +Puddings and pastry, directions for making 1180, 1204 + general observations on 1175-1179 +Puits d'amour, or puff-paste rings 1321 +Pumpkin, preserved 1584 +Punch 1839 + To make hot 1839 +Purchasing a house 2695-98 + +Quadrupeds, general observations on 585, 597 +Quail, description of the 1046 + To carve a 1065 + To dress a 1046 +Queen-cakes 1773 +Quenelles a tortue 189 + Veal 422 +Quince, the 1233 + Jelly 1585 + Marmalade 1586 + Quin's sauce 500 + +Rabbit, a la minute 980 + Angora 985 + Boiled 977 + Common wild 978 + Curried 978 + Fecundity of the 981 + Fried 979 + Habitat of the 977 + Hare 985 + Himalaya 985 + House 982 + Hutch 983 + Pie 981 + Ragout of, or hare 982 + Roast or baked 983 + Soup 181 + Stewed 984 + in milk 1874 + larded 985 + To carve a 1004 + Varieties of the 979 +Rabbits, fancy 984 +Radish, varieties of the 1152 +Raised pie, of poultry or game 1340 + Pork 835-6 + Veal and ham 1841 +Raisin, the 1327 +Raisins, cheese 1587 + Grape 1324 + Pudding, baked 1336 + boiled 1337 +Ramakins, pastry 1650 + To serve with cheese course 1649 +Raspberry, and currant salad 1592 + tart 1267 + Cream 1175 + Jam 1588 + Jelly 1589 + Vinegar 1828 +Raspberries, red and white 1267 +Ratafias 1745 +Ravigotte, a French salad sauce 501 +Reading sauce 502 +Rearing by hand 2497-8 +Rearing, management, and diseases of infancy and childhood 2415-2577 +Receipts 2730 +Regency soup 182 +Remoulade, or French salad dressing 503 +Rent, recovery of 2719-22 +Rhubarb, and orange jam 1591 + Description of 1339 + Jam 1590 + Pudding, boiled 1338 + Tart 1339 + Wine 1829 +Ribbons, or silk, to clean 2275 +Rice, and apples 1400 + Biscuits or cakes 1746 + Blancmange 1476 + Boiled for curries 1347 + Bread 1720 + Buttered 1349 + Cake 1772 + Casserole of, savoury 1350 + sweet 1351 + Croquettes 1477 + Esteemed by the ancients 1349 + Fritters 1478 + Ground 1746 + boiled 1353 + Iced 1354 + Indian, origin of 150 + Milk 1875 + Paddy 1347 + Pudding, baked 1342 + more economical 1343 + boiled 1345 + plain 1344 + with dried or fresh fruit 1346 + French, or gateau de riz 1352 + Miniature 1355 + Qualities of 1342 + Snowballs 1479 + Souffle 1480 + Soup 150-1 + To boil for curries 1348 + Varieties of 1345 +Ringworm, cure for 2667 + Alterative powders for 2668 +Rinsing 2379 +Rissoles, beef 465 +Roach, the 243 +Roasting, age of 65 + Memoranda in 657 +Rock biscuits 1747 +Rolls, excellent 1723 + Fluted 1317 + Hot 1724 + Meat, or sausage 1373 +Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525 + White, 526 +Rusks, Italian 1733 + To make 1734 + +Sage 427 + And onion stuffing 501 +Sago, alimentary properties of 1367 + How procured 152 + Pudding 1367 + Sauce for sweet puddings 1368 + Soup 152 +Salad, a poetic recipe for 508 + Boiled 1151 + Chicken 931 + Dressing 506-8 + French 503 + Grouse 1026 + Lobster 272 + Orange 1571 + Potato 1154 + Scarcity of, in England 505 + Summer 1152 + Winter 1153 +Salads 1153 +Salmi de perdrix, or hashed partridge 1038 +Salmon, a la Genevese 307 + And caper sauce 302 + Aversion of the 309 + Boiled 301 + Collared 303 + Crimped 304 + Curried 305 + Cutlets 306 + Growth of the 305 + Habitat of the 303 + Migratory habits of the 302 + Pickled 308 + Potted 309 + To carve _p._ 175 + choose 301 + cure 308 + Tribe 304 +Salsify, description of 1149 + To dress 1149 +Salt, action of on meat 607 + Common 403 + Fish 233 + Meat, Soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in 609 +Sandwiches, of cheese 1611 + Pastry 1318 + Toast 1877 + Victoria 1491 +Sauce, a l'Aurore 511 + A la matelote 512 + Allemande, or German sauce 509 + Anchovy, for fish 362 + +Sauce, apple, brown 364 + for geese or pork 363 + Aristocratique 510 + Arrowroot, for puddings 1356 + Asparagus 365 + Bechamel, or French white sauce 367 + maigre 368 + Benton 370 + Beurre noir, or browned butter, a French sauce 374 + Bread 371-2 + Browning for 373 + Butter, melted 376-7 + made with milk 380 + maitre d'hotel 465 + thickened 379 + Camp vinegar 381 + Caper, for boiled mutton 382 + for fish 383 + a substitute for 384 + Celery, for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387 + a more simple recipe 388 + Cherry, for sweet puddings 1357 + Chestnut, brown 391 + for turkey or fowls 390 + Chili vinegar 393 + Christopher North's, for game or meat 394 + Consomme, or white stock for 395 + Crab, for fish 396 + Cream, for fish or white dishes 397 + Cucumber 398 + white 400 + Custard, for sweet puddings or tart 404 + Dutch, for fish 405 + green, or Hollandaise verte 406 + Egg, for salt fish 409 + Epicurean 410 + Espagnole, or brown Spanish 411 + Fennel, for mackerel 412 + Fish 413 + For boiled puddings 514 + steaks 516 + wildfowl 519 + Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427 + Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429 + Green, for green geese or ducklings 431 + Horseradish 447 + Hot spice 524 + Indian chetney 452 + Italian, brown 453 + white 454 + Leamington 459 + Lemon, for boiled fowls 457 + for fowls and fricassees, white 458 + for sweet puddings 1358 + Liaison of eggs for thickening 461 + Liver and lemon, for poultry 462 + parsley 463 + Lobster 464 + Maigre maitre d'hotel (hot) 467 + Maitre d'hotel (hot) 466 + Mango chetney (Bengal recipe) 392 + Mayonnaise 468 + Melted butter 376-8 + Mint 469 + Mushroom, a very rich and good 479 + brown 474 + ketchup 472 + white 475-6 + Onion, brown 485 + French, or Soubise 483 + white 484 + Oyster 492 + Parsley and butter 493 + Piquante 513 + Plum-pudding 499 + Quin's (an excellent fish-sauce) 500 + Ravigotte 501 + Reading 502 + Robert 515 + Sago, for sweet puddings 1368 + Shrimp 522 + Soyer's, for plum-puddings 1359 + Store, or Cherokee 528 + Sweet, for puddings 1360 + venison 518 + Thickening for 525-6 + Tomato 529-32 + Tournee 517 + Vanilla custard 1361 + Wine, excellent for puddings 1362 + for puddings 1364 + or brandy 1363 + white 537-9 +Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages 433 + Manufacture of 510 + Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats, remarks on 354, 361 +Saucer-cakes, for tea 1774 +Sausage, meat cakes 839 + Meat stuffing 520 + Or meat rolls 1373 +Sausages, beef 662 + Pork, fried 838 + to make 837 + Veal 904 +Savory 446 +Savoury jelly for meat pies 521 +Savoy, the 140 + Biscuits or cakes 1748 + Cake 1782 +Scarlatina, or scarlet fever 2560-3 +Scotch, collops 870 + white 871 + Eggs 1666 + Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1651 + Shortbread 1780 + Woodcock 1653 +Scrap cakes 1779 +Scratches 2669 +Sea-bream, the 310 + baked 310 + Mr. Yarrell's recipe 310 + Kale, description of 1150 + To boil 1150 +Seed, biscuits 1749 + Cake, common 1775 + very good 1776 +Semolina, pudding, baked 1369 + Qualities of 153 + Soup 153 + Uses of 1369 +Shad, the 311 + To dress 311 +Shalot, or Eschalot 410 +Sheep, the 175 + General observations on the 678, 697 + Poets on the 730 +Sheep's brains, en matelote 740 + Feet, or trotters 741 + Head, to dress 742 + singed 742 +Shepherd, the Ettrick 739 + The Good 705 +Shepherds and their flocks 710 +Sherry 1416 + Pale 1426 +Shortbread, Scotch 1780 +Shrimp, the 313 + Sauce 522 +Shrimps, or prawns, buttered 313 + to boil 299 + Potted 312 +Sick-rooms, caution in visiting 2692 +Sirloin, origin of the word 659 +Skate, the 315 + Boiled 314 + Crimped 315 + Small, fried 317 + Species of 317 + To choose 315 + With caper sauce (a la Francaise) 316 +Smelt, the 319 + Odour of the 318 +Smelts, to bake 318 + To fry 319 +Snipe, description of the 1047 +Snipes, to carve 1060 + To dress 1047 +Snow cake 1777-8 + Eggs, or oeufs a la neige 1482 +Snowballs, apple 1235 + Rice 1479 +Soda, biscuits 1751 + Bread 1722 + Cake 1781 + Carbonate of 1765 +Sole, the 320 + Flavour of the 324 + Or cod pie 322 +Soles, a favourite dish of the ancient Greeks 323 + Baked 320 + Boiled 321 + or fried, to carve _p._ 175 + Filleted, a l'Italienne 324 + Fricasseed 325 + Fried 327 + filleted 326 + How caught 325 + To choose 320 + With cream sauce 323 + mushrooms 328 +Sorrel 131 + Qualities of 431 +Souffle, apple 1402 + Chocolate 1427 + Omelette 1461 + Rice 1480 + To make a 1481 +Souffles, general observations on 1388 +Soup, a la cantatrice 119 + Crecy 126 + Flamande 129-30 + Julienne 131 + Reine 183-4 + Solferino 154 + Almond 110 + Apple 111 + Artichoke, Jerusalem 112 + Asparagus 113-14 + Baked 115 + Barley 116 + Bread 117 + Brilla 166 + Broth and bouillon, general remarks on 91-5 + Cabbage 118 + Calf's head 167 + Carrot 120-1 + Celery 122 + Chantilly 123 + Chemistry and economy of making 96, 103 + Chestnut, Spanish 124 + Cock-a Leekie 134 + Cocoa-nut 125 + Crayfish 193 + Cucumber 127 + Eel 194 + Egg 128 + Family, a good 190 + Fish, stock 192 + General directions for making 88 + Giblet 168 + Gravy 169 + Hare 170 + Hessian 171 + Hodge-podge 191 + In season, January to December _pp._ 57, 104 + Kale brose 132 + Leek 133 + Lobster 195 + Macaroni 135 + Maigre 136 + Making, the chemistry of 96-103 + Milk 137 + Mock-turtle 172-3 + Mutton, good 175 + Ox-cheek 176 + Ox-tail 177 + Oyster 196-7 + Pan kail 140 + Parsnip 141 + Partridge 178 + Pea, green 144 + inexpensive 142 + winter, yellow 143 + Pheasant 179 + Portable 180 + Potage printanier 149 + Potato 145-7 + Prawn 198 + Prince of Wales 148 + Rabbit 181 + Regency 182 + Rice 150-1 + Sago 152 + Seasonings for 90 + Semolina 153 + Spanish chestnut 124 + Spinach 155 + Spring 149 + Stew 186-7 + of salt meat 185 + Tapioca 156 + Turkey 188 + Turnip 157 + Turtle 189 + Useful for benevolent purposes 165 + Vegetable 159-161 + marrow 158 + Vermicelli 162-3 + White 164 +Sow, Berkshire 781 + Chinese 785 + Cumberland 784 + Essex 782 + Price of, in Africa 816 + Yorkshire 783 +Soy 497 +Soyer's recipe for goose stuffing 505 +Spanish onions pickled 527 +Spiced beef 665 +Spinach, description of 1156 + Dressed with cream, a la Francaise 1156 + French mode of dressing 1157 + Green, for colouring dishes 523 + Soup 155 + To boil, English mode 1155 + Varieties of 155, 1155 +Sponge cake 1783 + Small, to make 1785 + Lemon 1448 +Sprains 2671 +Sprat, the 331 +Sprats 329 + Dried 331 + Fried in batter 330 +Sprouts 1096 + Boiled, Brussels 1096 + To boil young greens, or 1097 +Stables and coach-house 2204 + Heat of 2205 +Stains of syrup, or preserved fruits, + to remove 2273 +Stalls 2207 +Stammering 2673 + Cure for 2672 +Stamp duties 2742 +Starch, to make 2391-2 +Starching 2390 +Stew soup 185-7 +Stilton cheese 1639 +Stock, browning for 108 +Stock, cow-heel 1412 + Economical 106 + For gravies, general 432 + For jelly 1411 + Medium 105 + Rich strong 104 + To clarify 109 + White 107 +Stomach, digestion 2457-9 +Stone cream 1483 +Store sauce, or Cherokee 528 +Strawberry, jam 1594 + Jelly 1484 + Name of, among the Greeks 1381 + Origin of the name 1365 +Strawberries, and cream 1593 + Dish of 1606 + To preserve whole 1596 + in wine 1595 +Stuffing, for geese, ducks, pork, &c 504 + Sausage meat for turkey 520 + Soyer's recipe for 505 +Sturgeon, the 332 + Baked 332 + Estimate of, by the ancients 333 + Roast 333 +Stye in the eye 2630 +Substitute for milk and cream 1815 +Sucking-pig, to carve 842 + To roast 841 + scald 840 +Suffocation, apparent 2674 + Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp of mines 2675 +Sugar, and beetroot 1211 + Cane 1334 + French 1211 + Icing for cakes 1736 + Introduction of 1336 + Potato 1136 + Qualities of 1212 + To boil to caramel 1514 +Sulphuric acid 2649 +Sultana grape 1326 +Suppers 2139-41 +Sweetbreads, baked 906 + Fried 907 + Stewed 908 +Sweet dishes, general observations on 1385-8 +Swine, flesh of, in hot climates 835 +Swineherds of antiquity 836 + Saxon 838 +Swiss cream 1485 +Syllabub, to make 1486 + Whipped 1493 +Syrup, for compotes, to make 1512 + Lemon 1822 + Of poppies 2663 + To clarify 1513 + +Tails, strange 652 +Tapioca pudding 1370 + Soup 156 + Wholesomeness of 156, 1370 +Tart, apple creamed 1234 + Apricot 1239 + Barberry, 1245 + Cherry 1261 + Damson 1270 + Gooseberry 1285 + Plum 1331 + Raspberry and currant 1267 + Rhubarb 1339 + Strawberry, or any other kind + of preserve, open 1365 +Tartlets 1371 + Polish 1320 +Tarragon 503 +Taxes 2714 +Tea 1814 + And coffee 1813 + Miss Nightingale's opinion on the use of 1864 + To make 1814 +Teacakes 1786 + To toast 1787 +Teal, to carve 1067 + To roast a 1048 +Teething 2510-18 +Tenancy, by sufferance 2701 + General remarks on 2717 +Tench, the 334 + And eel-pie 349 + Matelote of 334 + Singular quality in the 335 + Stewed with wine 335 +Terms used in cookery, French 87 +Thrush and its treatment 2523-37 +Thyme 166 +Tipsy-cake 1487 + an easy way of making 1488 +Toad-in-the-hole 672 + of cold meat 743 +Toast, and water, to make 1876 + Sandwiches 1877 + Tea-cakes, to 1787 + To make dry 1725 + hot buttered 1726 +Toffee, Everton, to make 1597 +Tomato, analysis of the 1159 + Extended cultivation of the 1160 + Immense importance in cookery 1153 + Sauce 529 + for keeping 530-2 + Stewed 1159-60 + Uses of the 629, 528, 2690 +Tomatoes, baked, excellent 1158 +Tongue, boiled 673 + Pickle for 641 + To cure 674-5 + To pickle and dress to eat cold 676 +Tongues of animals 675 +Toothache, cure for the 2678-9 +Tourte apple or cake 1236 +Treacle, or molasses, description of 1224 + Pudding, rolled 1372 +Trifle, apple 1404 + Gooseberry 1434 + Indian 1436 + To make a 1489 +Tripe, to dress 677 +Trout, the 336 + Stewed 336 +Truffle, the common 1161 + Impossibility of regular culture of the 1162 + Uses of the 1164 +Truffles, a l' Italienne 1164 + Au naturel 1161 + Italian mode of dressing 1163 + To dress with champagne 1162 + Where found 1163 +Turbot, the 333 + A la creme 341 + Ancient Romans' estimate of the 340 + Au gratin 342 + Boiled 337 + Fillet of, baked 339 + a l'Italienne 340 + Garnish for, or other large fish 338 + To carve a _p_. 175 + To choose 338 +Turkey, boiled 986 + Croquettes of 987 + Difficult to rear the 188 + Disposition of the 988 + English 990 + Feathers of the 991 + Fricasseed 988 + Habits of the 988 + Hashed 989 + Hunting 989 + Native of America 986 + Or fowl, to bone without opening 992-4 + Poults, roast 991 + + Roast 990 + Stuffing for 520 + Soup 188 + To carve a roast 1005 + Wild 987 +Turnip greens boiled 1169 + Or the French navet 1168 + Qualities of the 1167 + Soup 157 + Uses of the 1165 + Whence introduced 157 +Turnips, boiled 1165 + German mode of cooking 1167 + In white sauce 1168 + Mashed 1166 +Turnovers, fruit 1278 +Turtle, mock 172-3 + Soup, cost of 189 + The green 189 + +Valet, cleaning clothes 2239 + Duties of the 2234-8, 2242 + Polish for boots 2240-1 +Vanilla cream 1490 + Custard sauce 1361 +Vanille or Vanilla 1490 +Veal, a la bourgeoise 869 + And ham pie 898 + Baked 856 + Breast of, roast 857 + stewed and peas 858 + to carve 912 + Cake 859 + Collops 879 + Scotch 870 +Veal, collops, Scotch, white 871 + Colour of 861 + Curried 865 + Cutlets 866 + a la Maintenon 868 + broiled 867 + Dinner, a very 897 + Fillet of, au Bechamel 883 + roast 872 + stewed 873 + to carve a 914 + Frenchman's opinion of 911 + Fricandeau of 874-5 + Knuckle of, ragout 884 + stewed 885 + to carve a 915 + Loin of au Daube 888 + au Bechamel 887 + roast 886 + to carve 916 + Manner of cutting up 854 + Minced 891-892 + and macaroni 891 + Neck of, braised 893 + roast 894 + Olive pie 895 + Patties, fried 896 + Pie 897 + Potted 899 + Quenelles 422 + Ragout of, cold 900 + Rissoles 901 + Rolls 902 + Sausages 904 + Season and choice of 908 + Shoulder of 903 + Stewed 905 + tendons de veau 909-10 + Tete de veau en tortue 911 +Vegetable, a variety of the goard 158 + Fried 1171 + Marrow, a tropical plant 1171 + boiled 1170 + in white sauce 1173 + Soup 158, 159-61 +Vegetables, acetarious 1151 + And herbs, various 89 + Cut for soups 1172 + General observations on 1069, 1079 + Reduced to puree 1166 + In season, January to December _pp_. 33-7 +Venison 1049 + Antiquity of, as food 444 + Hashed 1050 + Haunch of, roast 1049 + Sauce for 518 + Stewed 1051 + The new 1051 + To carve 1061 +Ventilation, necessity of, in rooms lighted with gas 2693 + of stables 2206 +Vermicelli 162, 1377 + Pudding 1377 + Soup 162-3 +Vicarage pudding 1378 +Victoria sandwiches 1491 +Vinegar, camp. 381 + Cayenne 385 + Celery 389 + Chili 393 + Cucumber 401 + Gooseberry 1820 + Horseradish 418 + Mint 470 + Raspberry 1828 + Use of, by the Romans 451 +Vol-au-vent, an entree 1379 + Of fresh strawberries with whipped cream 1381 + Sweet, with fresh fruit 1380 + +Wafers, Geneva 1431 +Walnut, the 536 + Ketchup 535-6 +Walnuts, pickled 534 + Properties of the 1599 + To have fresh throughout the season 1607 +Warts 2680 +Washing 2377-8 + Coloured muslins, &c. 2380 + Flannels 2381 + Greasy cloths 2382 + Satin and silk ribbons 2384 + Silks 2385 +Water, rate 2715 + Souchy 352-3 + Supply of in Rome 1216 + Warm 2691 + What the ancients thought of 1214 +Wax, to remove 2272 +Welsh, nectar 1830 + Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1652 +West-Indian pudding 1382 +Wheat, diseases of 1779 + Egyptian or mummy 1783 + Polish and Pomeranian 1722 + Red varieties of 1719 +Wheatear, the 996 +Wheatears, to dress 996 +Whipped, cream 1492 + Syllabubs 1493 +Whisky cordial 1840 +Whitebait 348 + To dress 348 +Whiting, the 343 + Au gratin, or baked 346 + Aux fines herbes 347 + Buckhorn 344 + Boiled 343 + Broiled 344 + Fried 345 + Pout and pollack 347 + To carve a _p_. 176 + choose 343 +Whitlow, to cure a 2681 +Widgeon, to carve a 1068 + Roast 1052 +Will, attestation of a 2757 + Advice in making a 2756 + Witnesses to a 2746, 2758 +Wills 2732-38 + Form of 2740-1 +Wine, cowslip 1817 + Elder 1818 + Ginger 1819 + Gooseberry, effervescing 1821 + Lemon 1823 + Malt 1824 + Orange 1827 + Rhubarb 1829 + To mull 1838 +Wire-basket 494 +Witnesses 2739-51 +Woodcock, description of the 1053 + Scotch 1653 + To carve a 1062 +Woodcock, to roast a 1053 +Woollen manufactures 737 +Woollens 2284 +Worms 2409 +Wounds 2682 + Incised, or cuts 2683, 2686 + Lacerated or torn 2684, 2687 + Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688 + +Yeast 1383 + Cake, nice 1788 + Dumplings 1383 + Kirkleatham 1717 + To make, for bread 1716 +Yorkshire pudding 1384 + + + + +ENGRAVINGS. + +Almond and blossom 110 + Puddings 1222 +Almonds and raisins 1598 +Anchovy 226 +Apple, and blossom 1226 + Compote of 1515 + Jelly stuck with almonds 1395 +Apples, dish of 1598 +Arrowroot 387 +Artichoke, cardoon 1080 + Jerusalem 1084 +Artichokes 1080 +Asparagus 114 + On toast 1087 + Tongs 1087 + +Bacon, boiled 804 + For larding, and needles 828 +Bain Marie 430 +Bantams, black 939 + Feather-legged 958 +Barbel 229 +Barberry 1245 +Barley 116 +Basil 417 +Basin, pudding 1200 +Basket, wire 494 +Bay, the 512 +Bean, broad 1092 + French 1151 + Haricot 1120 + Scarlet runner 1090 +Beef, aitchbone of 677 + Brisket of, to carve a 677 + Collared 617 + Ribs of, to carve a 677 + Round of, to carve a 677 +Beef, side of, showing the several joints 595 + Sirloin of 659 + " to carve a 677 + Steak pie 604 + Tongue 675 + " to carve a 677 +Beetroot 1094 +Birds 917 +Blackcock 1019 + Roast 1019 + " to carve a 1054 +Blacking-brush box 2342 +Blancmange 1409 + Mould for 1408, 1442 +Boar, Westphalian 787 +Bread, &c. 1658 + Loaf of, cottage 1718 + Tin 1718 +Brill, the 230 +Brocoli 1095 + Boiled 1095 +Broom, carpet 2293 + Long hair 2306 +Brush, banister 2302 + Cornice 2327 + Crumb 2321 + Dusting 2327 + Furniture 2310 + Plate 2317 + Scrubbing 2306 + Staircase 2302 + Stove 2294 +Buns 1731 +Butler's tray and stand 2315 +Butter, dish 1632 + Dish of, rolled 1634 + +Cabbage, seeding 118 +Cake-moulds 1756,1761,1772 +Calf, side of, showing the several joints 854 +Calf's-head 877 + Half a 877 + To carve a 913 +Calves 845 + Sweetbreads of 906 +Caper, the 383 +Capercalzie, the 1026 +Capsicum, the 362 +Carp, the 242 +Carpet brooms 2293 +Carrots 1100 +Cauliflower, the 1104 + Boiled 1104 +Celery 441 + In glass 1107 +Char, the 243 +Charlotte aux pommes 1418 +Cheese glass 1640 + Hot-water dish for 1651 + Stilton 1639 +Cherry 1261 +Chervil 1151 +Chestnut 124 +Chocolate, box of 1598 + Milk 1807 +Christmas pudding, &c. 1175 +Chub, the 243 +Cinnamon 524 +Citron, the 1436 +Claret-cup 1831 +Clove, the 367 +Coal, sections of 73 +Cocoa-bean 1815 + Nut and blossom 125 + " palm 125 +Cod, the 231 +Cod's head and shoulders, to carve 174 +Coffee 1811 +Colander, ancient 68 + Modern 68 +Coriander 174 +Cork, with wooden top 446 +Cow and bull, Alderney 592 + Galloway 593 + Long-horn 591 + Short-horn 590 +Crab, the 245 +Crayfish 193 +Cream-mould 1430 +Crumpets 1728 +Cucumber, the 402,1111 + Slice 1152 + Sliced 1111 +Currants 1266 + Zante 1264 +Custards, in glasses 1423 +Cygnet 998 + +Dace, the 243 +Damson, the 1270 +Deer, the 444 + Eland, bull and cow 1051 + Fallow, buck and doe 1050 + Roebuck 1051 + The stag and hind 1051 +Dessert 1495 + Dishes 1598 +Dish, baking 551 + Pie 1190 + Sussex pudding 695 +Dripping-pan, ancient 68 + Modern 68 + And basting-ladle 580 +Duck, Aylesbury 935 + Bowbill 936 + Buenos Ayres 933 + Call 937 + Roast 934 + " to carve a 999 + Rouen 934 + Wild 1022 + " roast 1022 + " " to carve a 1055 + +Eel, the 249 +Egg poacher, tin 1663 + Stand for breakfast-table 1656 +Eggs, basket of 1667 + Comparative sizes of 1665 + Fried on bacon 1659 + Poached, on toast 1663 +Elder-berries 1818 +Endive 169 +Ewe, heath 690 + Leicester 682 + Romney-Marsh 691 + South-Down 687 + +Fennel 412 +Figs, compote of 1541 +Fish 199 +Flounders 259 +Flowers and fruit 61, 103, 584, 925 +Fowl, black bantams 939 + Black Spanish 962 + Boiled 938 + " to carve a 1000 + Cochin-China 942 + Dorking 940 + Feather-legged bantams 958 + Game 938 + Guinea 970 + Pencilled Hamburgs 965 + Roast 952 + " to carve a 1001 + Sebright bantams 961 + Spangled Polands 941 + Speckled Hamburgs 959 + Sultans 963 +Fritter mould, star 1473 + Scroll 1474 +Fruit, dish of, mixed 1598 + Dish of, mixed summer 1598 + +Game 1006 +Garlic 392 +Gherkins 428 +Ginger 407 +Gingerbread 1760 +Glass measure, graduated 77 +Goose, Emden 968 + Roast 1002 + " to carve a 1002 + Toulouse 969 +Gooseberry 429 +Grape, raisin 1324 + Sultana 1326 +Gridiron, ancient 68 + Modern 68 + Revolving 569 +Grouse, red 1025 + Roast 1025 + " to carve a 1058 +Gudgeon, the 261 +Gurnet, the 262 + +Haddock, the 263 +Ham, boiled 811 + To carve 843 +Hare, the common 170, 1027 + Roast 1027 + " to carve a 1056 +Herring, the 268 +Horseradish 447 +Hotplate 568 +Housemaid's box 2294 + +Ice-pail and spattle 1290 +Ices, dish of 1556 + +Jack-bottle 580 +Jam-pot 1532 +Jar-potting 642 +Jellies, &c 1385 +Jelly, bag 1411 + Mould 1411, 1416 + " oval 1449 + Moulded with cherries 1440 + Of two colours 1441 + Open with whipped cream 1453 +John Dory 248 + +Kettle, glaze 430 + Fish 225 + Gravy 432 +Kidneys 724 +Knife-cleaning machine 5123 + +Lamb, fore-quarter of 750 + " " to carve a 764 + Leg of 752 + Loin of 753 + Ribs of 754 + Saddle of 754 + Side of 701 +Lamprey, the 256 +Landrail, the 1033 +Leaf in puff paste 1245 + Pastry 1492 +Leeks 134 +Lemon, the 405, 1296 + Cream mould 1443 + Dumplings 1294 +Lentil, the 126 +Lettuce, the 136 +Lobster, the 270 + +Macaroni 135 +Macaroons 1744 +Mace 371 +Mackerel, the 281 +Maize, ear of 1721 + Plant 1721 +Marjoram 415 +Marrow-bones 635 +Milking cow 1608 +Millet, Italian 1718 + Panicled 1733 +Mince pies 1311 +Mint 469 +Mould, baked pudding or cake 1329 + Blancmange 1408, 1442 + Boiled pudding 1196-8 + Cake 1756, 1764, 1772 + Cream 1430 + For Christmas plum-pudding 1328 + For an open tart 1365 + Iced pudding 1289 + Jelly 1411, 1416 + " oval 1449 + Lemon cream 1443 + Open 1454, 1463 + Raised pie, closed and open 1190 + Raspberry cream 1475 + Vanilla cream 1490 +Muffins 1727 +Mulberry, the 1560 +Mullet, grey 284 + Striped red 285 +Mushroom, the 473 +Mushrooms 1125 + Broiled 1125 +Mustard 450 +Mutton, cutlets 732 + Haunch of 726 + " to carve a 759 + Leg of 727 + " to carve a 760 + Loin of 728 + " to carve a 761 + Neck of 737 + Saddle of 738 + " to carve a 762 + Side of, showing the several joints 695 + Shoulder of 739 + " to carve a 763 + +Nasturtiums 482 +Nutmeg, the 378 +Nuts, dish of 1598 + +Olive, the 506 +Omelet 1456 + Pan 1458 +Onion, the 139 +Orange, the 1314 +Oranges, compote of 1565 +Oyster, edible 286 + +Pail, house 2327 +Pancakes 1467 +Parsley 493 +Parsnip, the 1132 +Partridge, the 1039 + Roast 1039 + " to carve a 1057 +Baste, board and rolling-pin 1186 + Cutter and corner-cutter 1189 + Ornamental cutter 1189 + Pincers and jagger 1186 +Patty-pans, plain and fluted 1190 +Pea, the 143 +Peach, the 1469 +Pear, bon Chretien 1576 +Pears, stewed 1576 +Peas, green 1135 +Pepper, black 369 + Long 399 +Perch, the 292 +Pestle and Mortar 421 +Pheasant, the 1041 + Roast 1041 + " to carve a 1059 +Pickle, Indian 551 +Pie, raised 1340 +Pig, Guinea 997 + Roast, sucking 841 + " " to carve a 842 +Pig's face 823 +Pigs 765 +Pigeon, barb 976 + Blue rock 976 + Carrier 974 + Fantail 976 + Jacobin 976 + Nun 975 + Owl 976 + Pouter 973 + Roast 974 + Runt 975 + To carve a 1003 + Trumpeter 975 + Tumbler 975 + Turbit 976 + Wood 975 +Pike, the 295 +Pimento 438 +Plaice, the 298 +Plover, the 1044 +Plum, the 1330 +Pork, fore loin of 829 + Griskin of 827 + Hind loin of 829 + Leg of, to carve a 844 + " roast 800 + Side of, showing joints 795 + Spare rib of 827 +Pot, boiling 567 +Potato, the 147 + Pasty pan 1333 + Rissoles 1147 + Sweet 1146 +Potatoes, baked, served in napkin 1136 +Pound cake 1770 +Prawn, the 198 +Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045 +Pudding, boiled fruit 1284 + Cabinet 1286 +Punch-bowl and ladle 1839 + +Quadrupeds 585 +Quail, the 1046 +Quern, or grinding-mill 117 +Quince, the 1233 + +Rabbit, Angora 983 + Boiled 977 + " to carve a 1004 + Hare, the 985 + Himalaya 985 + Lop-eared 984 + Roast 983 + " to carve a 1004 + Wild 978 +Radish, long 1152 + Turnip 1152 +Raisin, grape 1324 +Ram, heath 689 + Leicester 688 + Romney-Marsh and ewe 691 + South-down and ewe 687 +Range, modern 65 +Raspberry, the 1267 + Cream mould 1475 +Ratafias 1745 +Rhubarb 1339 +Rice, casserole of 1350 + Ears of 150 +Roach, the 243 +Rolls 1723 +Rusks 1734 + +Sage 427 +Sago palm 152 +Salad, in bowl 1152 +Salmon, the 304 + To carve a _p._ 175 +Salt-mine at Northwich 403 +Saucepan, ancient 68 + Modern 68 +Sauce tureen, boat, &c. 354 +Sausages, fried 838 +Saute-pan 571 + Ancient 68 + Modern 68 +Scales, ancient and modern 70 +Screen, meat 582 +Sea-bream, the 310 +Sea-kale 1150 + Boiled 1150 +Shad, the 311 +Shalot, the 410 +Sheep 678 + Heath ram 689 + " ewe 690 + Romney-Marsh ram and ewe 691 + South-Down ram and ewe 687 +Shortbread 1780 +Shrimp, the 313 +Skate, thornback 315 +Snipe, the 1047 + Roast 1047 + " to carve a 1060 +Sole, the 320 +Sorrel 431 +Souffle pan 1481 +Sow, and pigs 765 + Berkshire 781 + Chinese 785 + Cumberland 784 + Essex 782 + Yorkshire 783 +Spinach 155 + Garnished with croutons 1155 +Sponge cake 1783 +Sprat, the 331 +Sprouts, Brussels 1098 +Stewpan 567 +Stock-pot, ancient 66 + Bronze 66 + Modern 66 +Stove, gas 575 + Family kitchener 65 + Leamington 65, 540 + Pompeiian 65 +Strawberries, dish of 1598 +Sturgeon, the 332 +Sugar-cane, the 1335 +Sultana grape, the 1326 +Swans 54 + +Tarragon 503 +Tart, open 1365 + Open mould for a 1365 + Plum 1331 +Tartlets, dish of 1371 +Tazza and carrot leaves 121 +Tea 1814 +Teacakes 1787 +Tench, the 334 +Thyme, lemon 458 +Tipsy cake 1487 +Tomato, the 529 +Tomatoes, stewed 1159 +Trifle 1489 +Trout, the 336 +Truffles 1161 +Turbot, the 338 + Kettle 338 + To carve a 176 +Tureen, soup 88 +Turkey, boiled 986 + Roast 990 + " to carve a 1005 +Turnip 157 +Turnips 1165 +Turret on old Abbey kitchen 62 +Turtle, the 189 + +Urns, Loysell's hydrostatic 1810 +Utensils for cooking, ancient and modern 66-8 + +Vanilla cream mould 1490 +Veal, breast of 857 + " to carve a 912 + Cutlets 866 + Fillet of 872 + " to carve a 914 + Knuckle of 885 + " to carve a 915 + Loin of 885 + " to carve a 916 +Vegetable, cutter 1173 + Strips of 131 +Vegetable marrow 158 + In white sauce 1173 + On toast 1170 +Vegetables 1069 + Cellular development of 1075 + Siliceous cuticles of 1075 +Venison, haunch of 1061 + " roast 1049 + " to carve a 1061 +Vermicelli 162 +Vessels for beverages 1789 +Vol-au-vent 1379 + Small 1379 + +Walnut, the 536 +Wheat 1779 + Egyptian, or mummy 1783 + Polish 1722 + Red winter 1719 +Whitebait 348 +Whiting, the 343 +Window and flowers 75 +Wirebasket 494 +Woodcock, the 1053 + Roast 1053 + Scotch 1653 + To carve a 1062 + +Yorkshire pudding 1384 + + + + +COLOURED PLATES. + +Apples in custard + +Beef, round of, boiled + Roast sirloin of + +Calf's head, boiled +Charlotte aux pommes +Cod's head and shoulders +Crab, dressed + +Duck, wild +Ducks, couple of, roast + +Eggs, poached, and spinach + +Fowl, boiled with cauliflower + Roast, with watercresses +Fruits, centre dish of various + +Goose, roast +Grouse + +Ham, cold glazed +Hare, roast + +Jelly, two colours of + +Lobsters, dressed + +Mackerel, boiled +Mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes + Haunch of roast + Saddle of roast +Mutton, shoulder of roast + +Oysters, scalloped + +Partridge +Pheasant +Pie, raised +Pig, sucking, roast or baked +Pigeon +Plum-pudding, Christmas, in mould + +Rabbit, boiled + Or fowl, curried +Raspberry cream +Rissoles + +Salmon, boiled +Snipe +Soles, dish of filleted +Spinach and poached eggs +Strawberries, au naturel, in + ornamental flower-pot + +Tongue, cold boiled +Trifle +Turbot, or brill, boiled +Turkey, roast + +Veal, fricandeau of +Vol-au-vent + +Whiting, dish of, fried +Woodcock + + + + + + + + +THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +THE MISTRESS. + +"Strength, and honour are her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time to +come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of +kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household; and eateth not +the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her +husband also, and he praiseth her."--_Proverbs_, xxxi. 25-28. + +I. AS WITH THE COMMANDER OF AN ARMY, or the leader of any enterprise, so +is it with the mistress of a house. Her spirit will be seen through the +whole establishment; and just in proportion as she performs her duties +intelligently and thoroughly, so will her domestics follow in her path. +Of all those acquirements, which more particularly belong to the +feminine character, there are none which take a higher rank, in our +estimation, than such as enter into a knowledge of household duties; for +on these are perpetually dependent the happiness, comfort, and +well-being of a family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author +of "The Vicar of Wakefield," who says: "The modest virgin, the prudent +wife, and the careful matron, are much more serviceable in life than +petticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queens. She who +makes her husband and her children happy, who reclaims the one from vice +and trains up the other to virtue, is a much greater character than +ladies described in romances, whose whole occupation is to murder +mankind with shafts from their quiver, or their eyes." + +2. PURSUING THIS PICTURE, we may add, that to be a good housewife does +not necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusing +recreation; and we think it the more necessary to express this, as the +performance of the duties of a mistress may, to some minds, perhaps seem +to be incompatible with the enjoyment of life. Let us, however, now +proceed to describe some of those home qualities and virtues which are +necessary to the proper management of a Household, and then point out +the plan which may be the most profitably pursued for the daily +regulation of its affairs. + +3. EARLY RISING IS ONE OF THE MOST ESSENTIAL QUALITIES which enter into +good Household Management, as it is not only the parent of health, but +of innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a mistress is an early +riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and +well-managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, +then the domestics, who, as we have before observed, invariably partake +somewhat of their mistress's character, will surely become sluggards. To +self-indulgence all are more or less disposed, and it is not to be +expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of +houses. The great Lord Chatham thus gave his advice in reference to this +subject:--"I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the +walls of your chamber, 'If you do not rise early, you can make progress +in nothing.'" + +4. CLEANLINESS IS ALSO INDISPENSABLE TO HEALTH, and must be studied both +in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or +tepid baths should be employed every morning, unless, on account of +illness or other circumstances, they should be deemed objectionable. The +bathing of _children_ will be treated of under the head of "MANAGEMENT +OF CHILDREN." + +5. FRUGALITY AND ECONOMY ARE HOME VIRTUES, without which no household +can prosper. Dr. Johnson says: "Frugality may be termed the daughter of +Prudence, the sister of Temperance, and the parent of Liberty. He that +is extravagant will quickly become poor, and poverty will enforce +dependence and invite corruption." The necessity of practising economy +should be evident to every one, whether in the possession of an income +no more than sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a large +fortune, which puts financial adversity out of the question. We must +always remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage a +little well. "He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, "that can turn +in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, +not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my +little, than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it +may be added, that those who can manage a little well, are most likely +to succeed in their management of larger matters. Economy and frugality +must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into parsimony and +meanness. + +6. THE CHOICE OF ACQUAINTANCES is very important to the happiness of a +mistress and her family. A gossiping acquaintance, who indulges in the +scandal and ridicule of her neighbours, should be avoided as a +pestilence. It is likewise all-necessary to beware, as Thomson sings, + + "The whisper'd tale, + That, like the fabling Nile, no fountain knows;-- + Fair-laced Deceit, whose wily, conscious aye + Ne'er looks direct; the tongue that licks the dust + But, when it safely dares, as prompt to sting." + +If the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of a +mistress, society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to the +mutual interchange of general and interesting information. + +7. FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE HASTILY FORMED, nor the heart given, at +once, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uniformly smile at, and +approve everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage to +reprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendship +of such persons is without attachment, and their love without affection +or even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetration +is ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment. It should +be remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceed +from an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a long +experience and thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinize the conduct +and dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the first +fair appearances. Addison, who was not deficient in a knowledge of +mankind, observes that "a friendship, which makes the least noise, is +very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent +friend to a zealous one." And Joanna Baillie tells us that + + "Friendship is no plant of hasty growth, + Though planted in esteem's deep-fixed soil, + The gradual culture of kind intercourse + Must bring it to perfection." + +8. HOSPITALITY IS A MOST EXCELLENT VIRTUE; but care must be taken that +the love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing +passion; for then the habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. +Reality and truthfulness in this, as in all other duties of life, are +the points to be studied; for, as Washington Irving well says, "There is +an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot be +described, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at his +ease." With respect to the continuance of friendships, however, it may +be found necessary, in some cases, for a mistress to relinquish, on +assuming the responsibility of a household, many of those commenced in +the earlier part of her life. This will be the more requisite, if the +number still retained be quite equal to her means and opportunities. + +9. IN CONVERSATION, TRIFLING OCCURRENCES, such as small disappointments, +petty annoyances, and other every-day incidents, should never be +mentioned to your friends. The extreme injudiciousness of repeating +these will be at once apparent, when we reflect on the unsatisfactory +discussions which they too frequently occasion, and on the load of +advice which they are the cause of being tendered, and which is, too +often, of a kind neither to be useful nor agreeable. Greater events, +whether of joy or sorrow, should be communicated to friends; and, on +such occasions, their sympathy gratifies and comforts. If the mistress +be a wife, never let an account of her husband's failings pass her lips; +and in cultivating the power of conversation, she should keep the +versified advice of Cowper continually in her memory, that it + + "Should flow like water after summer showers, + Not as if raised by mere mechanic powers." + +In reference to its style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself greatly +distinguished for his colloquial abilities, says that "no style is more +extensively acceptable than the narrative, because this does not carry +an air of superiority over the rest of the company; and, therefore, is +most likely to please them. For this purpose we should store our memory +with short anecdotes and entertaining pieces of history. Almost every +one listens with eagerness to extemporary history. Vanity often +co-operates with curiosity; for he that is a hearer in one place wishes +to qualify himself to be a principal speaker in some inferior company; +and therefore more attention is given to narrations than anything else +in conversation. It is true, indeed, that sallies of wit and quick +replies are very pleasing in conversation; but they frequently tend to +raise envy in some of the company: but the narrative way neither raises +this, nor any other evil passion, but keeps all the company nearly upon +an equality, and, if judiciously managed, will at once entertain and +improve them all." + +10. GOOD TEMPER SHOULD BE CULTIVATED by every mistress, as upon it the +welfare of the household may be said to turn; indeed, its influence can +hardly be over-estimated, as it has the effect of moulding the +characters of those around her, and of acting most beneficially on the +happiness of the domestic circle. Every head of a household should +strive to be cheerful, and should never fail to show a deep interest in +all that appertains to the well-being of those who claim the protection +of her roof. Gentleness, not partial and temporary, but universal and +regular, should pervade her conduct; for where such a spirit is +habitually manifested, it not only delights her children, but makes her +domestics attentive and respectful; her visitors are also pleased by it, +and their happiness is increased. + +11. ON THE IMPORTANT SUBJECT OF DRESS AND FASHION we cannot do better +than quote an opinion from the eighth volume of the "Englishwoman's +Domestic Magazine." The writer there says, "Let people write, talk, +lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is +the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, +it will never _look_ as ridiculous as another, or as any other, which, +however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming, is totally opposite +in style to that generally worn." + +12. IN PURCHASING ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, whether it be a silk +dress, a bonnet, shawl, or riband, it is well for the buyer to consider +three things: I. That it be not too expensive for her purse. II. That +its colour harmonize with her complexion, and its size and pattern with +her figure. III. That its tint allow of its being worn with the other +garments she possesses. The quaint Fuller observes, that the good wife +is none of our dainty dames, who love to appear in a variety of suits +every day new, as if a gown, like a stratagem in war, were to be used +but once. But our good wife sets up a sail according to the keel of her +husband's estate; and, if of high parentage, she doth not so remember +what she was by birth, that she forgets what she is by match. + + To _Brunettes_, or those ladies having dark complexions, silks + of a grave hue are adapted. For _Blondes_, or those having fair + complexions, lighter colours are preferable, as the richer, + deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter. The colours + which go best together are green with violet; gold-colour with + dark crimson or lilac; pale blue with scarlet; pink with black + or white; and gray with scarlet or pink. A cold colour generally + requires a warm tint to give life to it. Gray and pale blue, for + instance, do not combine well, both being cold colours. + +13. THE DRESS OF THE MISTRESS should always be adapted to her +circumstances, and be varied with different occasions. Thus, at +breakfast she should be attired in a very neat and simple manner, +wearing no ornaments. If this dress should decidedly pertain only to the +breakfast-hour, and be specially suited for such domestic occupations as +usually follow that meal, then it would be well to exchange it before +the time for receiving visitors, if the mistress be in the habit of +doing so. It is still to be remembered, however, that, in changing the +dress, jewellery and ornaments are not to be worn until the full dress +for dinner is assumed. Further information and hints on the subject of +the toilet will appear under the department of the "LADY'S-MAID." + + The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Shakspeare's + tragedy of "Hamlet," is most excellent; and although given to + one of the male sex, will equally apply to a "fayre ladye:"-- + + "Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, + But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy; + For the apparel oft proclaims the man." + +14. CHARITY AND BENEVOLENCE ARE DUTIES which a mistress owes to herself +as well as to her fellow-creatures; and there is scarcely any income so +small, but something may be spared from it, even if it be but "the +widow's mite." It is to be always remembered, however, that it is the +_spirit_ of charity which imparts to the gift a value far beyond its +actual amount, and is by far its better part. + + True Charity, a plant divinely nursed, + Fed by the love from which it rose at first, + Thrives against hope, and, in the rudest scene, + Storms but enliven its unfading green; + Exub'rant is the shadow it supplies, + Its fruit on earth, its growth above the skies. + + Visiting the houses of the poor is the only practical way really + to understand the actual state of each family; and although + there may be difficulties in following out this plan in the + metropolis and other large cities, yet in country towns and + rural districts these objections do not obtain. Great advantages + may result from visits paid to the poor; for there being, + unfortunately, much ignorance, generally, amongst them with + respect to all household knowledge, there will be opportunities + for advising and instructing them, in a pleasant and unobtrusive + manner, in cleanliness, industry, cookery, and good management. + +15. IN MARKETING, THAT THE BEST ARTICLES ARE THE CHEAPEST, may be laid +down as a rule; and it is desirable, unless an experienced and +confidential housekeeper be kept, that the mistress should herself +purchase all provisions and stores needed for the house. If the mistress +be a young wife, and not accustomed to order "things for the house," a +little practice and experience will soon teach her who are the best +tradespeople to deal with, and what are the best provisions to buy. +Under each particular head of FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, &c., will be +described the proper means of ascertaining the quality of these +comestibles. + +16. A HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNT-BOOK should invariably be kept, and kept +punctually and precisely. The plan for keeping household accounts, which +we should recommend, would be to make an entry, that is, write down into +a daily diary every amount paid on that particular day, be it ever so +small; then, at the end of the month, let these various payments be +ranged under their specific heads of Butcher, Baker, &c.; and thus will +be seen the proportions paid to each tradesman, and any one month's +expenses may be contrasted with another. The housekeeping accounts +should be balanced not less than once a month; so that you may see that +the money you have in hand tallies with your account of it in your +diary. Judge Haliburton never wrote truer words than when he said, "No +man is rich whose expenditure exceeds his means, and no one is poor +whose incomings exceed his outgoings." + + When, in a large establishment, a housekeeper is kept, it will + be advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly. + Then any increase of expenditure which may be apparent, can + easily be explained, and the housekeeper will have the + satisfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her + department well and economically, have been successful. + +17. ENGAGING DOMESTICS is one of those duties in which the judgment of +the mistress must be keenly exercised. There are some respectable +registry-offices, where good servants may sometimes be hired; but the +plan rather to be recommended is, for the mistress to make inquiry +amongst her circle of friends and acquaintances, and her tradespeople. +The latter generally know those in their neighbourhood, who are wanting +situations, and will communicate with them, when a personal interview +with some of them will enable the mistress to form some idea of the +characters of the applicants, and to suit herself accordingly. + + We would here point out an error--and a grave one it is--into + which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a + servant, expressly tell her all the duties which she will be + expected to perform. This is an act of omission severely to be + reprehended. Every portion of work which the maid will have to + do, should be plainly stated by the mistress, and understood by + the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, domestic + contention is almost certain to ensue, and this may not be + easily settled; so that a change of servants, which is so much + to be deprecated, is continually occurring. + +18. IN OBTAINING A SERVANT'S CHARACTER, it is not well to be guided by a +written one from some unknown quarter; but it is better to have an +interview, if at all possible, with the former mistress. By this means +you will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servant +for your place, from the appearance of the lady and the state of her +house. Negligence and want of cleanliness in her and her household +generally, will naturally lead you to the conclusion, that her servant +has suffered from the influence of the bad example. + + The proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal + interview with the lady is this:--The servant in search of the + situation must be desired to see her former mistress, and ask + her to be kind enough to appoint a time, convenient to herself, + when you may call on her; this proper observance of courtesy + being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the + part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to + the honesty and general morality of her former servant; and if + no objection is stated in that respect, her other qualifications + are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so + that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the + weak points of your domestic. + +19. THE TREATMENT OF SERVANTS is of the highest possible moment, as well +to the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the head of the house +the latter will naturally fix their attention; and if they perceive that +the mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they +will not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent desire is shown to +promote their comfort, at the same time that a steady performance of +their duty is exacted, then their respect will not be unmingled with +affection, and they will be still more solicitous to continue to deserve +her favour. + +20. IN GIVING A CHARACTER, it is scarcely necessary to say that the +mistress should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not fair +for one lady to recommend to another, a servant she would not keep +herself. The benefit, too, to the servant herself is of small advantage; +for the failings which she possesses will increase if suffered to be +indulged with impunity. It is hardly necessary to remark, on the other +hand, that no angry feelings on the part of a mistress towards her late +servant, should ever be allowed, in the slightest degree, to influence +her, so far as to induce her to disparage her maid's character. + +21. THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF THE AVERAGE YEARLY WAGES paid to domestics, +with the various members of the household placed in the order in which +they are usually ranked, will serve as a guide to regulate the +expenditure of an establishment:-- + + When not found in When found in + Livery. Livery. + + The House Steward From L10 to L80 -- + The Valet " 25 to 50 From L20 to L30 + The Butler " 25 to 50 -- + The Cook " 20 to 40 -- + The Gardener " 20 to 40 -- + The Footman " 20 to 40 " 15 to 25 + The Under Butler " 15 to 30 " 15 to 25 + The Coachman -- " 20 to 35 + The Groom " 15 to 30 " 12 to 20 + The Under Footman -- " 12 to 20 + The Page or Footboy " 8 to 18 " 6 to 14 + The Stableboy " 6 to 12 -- + + When no extra When an extra + allowance is made for allowance is made for + Tea, Sugar, and Beer. Tea, Sugar, and Beer. + + The Housekeeper From L20 to L15 From L18 to L40 + The Lady's-maid " 12 to 25 " 10 to 20 + The Head Nurse " 15 to 30 " 13 to 26 + The Cook " 11 to 30 " 12 to 26 + The Upper Housemaid " 12 to 20 " 10 to 17 + The Upper Laundry-maid " 12 to 18 " 10 to 15 + The Maid-of-all-work " 9 to 14 " 7-1/2 to 11 + The Under Housemaid " 8 to 12 " 6-1/2 to 10 + The Still-room Maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 13 + The Nursemaid " 8 to 12 " 5 to 10 + The Under Laundry-maid " 9 to 11 " 8 to 12 + The Kitchen-maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 12 + The Scullery-maid " 5 to 9 " 4 to 8 + + These quotations of wages are those usually given in or near the + metropolis; but, of course, there are many circumstances + connected with locality, and also having reference to the long + service on the one hand, or the inexperience on the other, of + domestics, which may render the wages still higher or lower than + those named above. All the domestics mentioned in the above + table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman. + The number of servants, of course, would become smaller in + proportion to the lesser size of the establishment; and we may + here enumerate a scale of servants suited to various incomes, + commencing with-- + + About L1,000 a year--A cook, upper housemaid, nursemaid, under + housemaid, + and a man servant. + About L750 a year--A cook, housemaid, nursemaid, and footboy. + About L500 a year--A cook, housemaid, and nursemaid. + About L300 a year--A maid-of-all-work and nursemaid. + About L200 or L150 a year--A maid-of-all-work (and girl occasionally). + +22. HAVING THUS INDICATED some of the more general duties of the +mistress, relative to the moral government of her household, we will now +give a few specific instructions on matters having a more practical +relation to the position which she is supposed to occupy in the eye of +the world. To do this the more clearly, we will begin with her earliest +duties, and take her completely through the occupations of a day. + +23. HAVING RISEN EARLY, as we have already advised (_see_ 3), and having +given due attention to the bath, and made a careful toilet, it will be +well at once to see that the children have received their proper +ablutions, and are in every way clean and comfortable. The first meal of +the day, breakfast, will then be served, at which all the family should +be punctually present, unless illness, or other circumstances, prevent. + +24. AFTER BREAKFAST IS OVER, it will be well for the mistress to make a +round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all are in order, +and that the morning's work has been properly performed by the various +domestics. The orders for the day should then be given, and any +questions which the domestics desire to ask, respecting their several +departments, should be answered, and any special articles they may +require, handed to them from the store-closet. + + In those establishments where there is a housekeeper, it will + not be so necessary for the mistress, personally, to perform the + above-named duties. + +25. AFTER THIS GENERAL SUPERINTENDENCE of her servants, the mistress, if +a mother of a young family, may devote herself to the instruction of +some of its younger members, or to the examination of the state of their +wardrobe, leaving the later portion of the morning for reading, or for +some amusing recreation. "Recreation," says Bishop Hall, "is intended to +the mind as whetting is to the scythe, to sharpen the edge of it, which +would otherwise grow dull and blunt. He, therefore, that spends his +whole time in recreation is ever whetting, never mowing; his grass may +grow and his steed starve; as, contrarily, he that always toils and +never recreates, is ever mowing, never whetting, labouring much to +little purpose. As good no scythe as no edge. Then only doth the work go +forward, when the scythe is so seasonably and moderately whetted that it +may cut, and so cut, that it may have the help of sharpening." + + Unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed, and she + be obliged to devote a great deal of her time to the making of + her children's clothes, and other economical pursuits, it is + right that she should give some time to the pleasures of + literature, the innocent delights of the garden, and to the + improvement of any special abilities for music, painting, and + other elegant arts, which she may, happily, possess. + +26. THESE DUTIES AND PLEASURES BEING PERFORMED AND ENJOYED, the hour of +luncheon will have arrived. This is a very necessary meal between an +early breakfast and a late dinner, as a healthy person, with good +exercise, should have a fresh supply of food once in four hours. It +should be a light meal; but its solidity must, of course, be, in some +degree, proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to wait +for your dinner, and the amount of exercise you take in the mean time. +At this time, also, the servants' dinner will be served. + + In those establishments where an early dinner is served, that + will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, + where a nursery dinner is provided for the children and about + one o'clock, the mistress and the elder portion of the family + make their luncheon at the same time from the same joint, or + whatever may be provided. A mistress will arrange, according to + circumstances, the serving of the meal; but the more usual plan + is for the lady of the house to have the joint brought to her + table, and afterwards carried to the nursery. + +27. AFTER LUNCHEON, MORNING CALLS AND VISITS may be made and received. +These may be divided under three heads: those of ceremony, friendship, +and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony, or courtesy, which +occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under +various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at +a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These +visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being +quite sufficient. A lady paying a visit may remove her boa or +neckerchief; but neither her shawl nor bonnet. + + When other visitors are announced, it is well to retire as soon + as possible, taking care to let it appear that their arrival is + not the cause. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of + their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind + leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should + you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascertained the + luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as + possible, without, however, showing that you feel yourself an + intruder. It is not difficult for any well-bred or even + good-tempered person, to know what to say on such an occasion, + and, on politely withdrawing, a promise can be made to call + again, if the lady you have called on, appear really + disappointed. + +28. IN PAYING VISITS OF FRIENDSHIP, it will not be so necessary to be +guided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony; and if a lady be +pressed by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet, it can be done if +it will not interfere with her subsequent arrangements. It is, however, +requisite to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long, if +your friend is engaged. The courtesies of society should ever be +maintained, even in the domestic circle, and amongst the nearest +friends. During these visits, the manners should be easy and cheerful, +and the subjects of conversation such as may be readily terminated. +Serious discussions or arguments are to be altogether avoided, and there +is much danger and impropriety in expressing opinions of those persons +and characters with whom, perhaps, there is but a slight acquaintance. +(_See_ 6, 7, and 9.) + + It is not advisable, at any time, to take favourite dogs into + another lady's drawing-room, for many persons have an absolute + dislike to such animals; and besides this, there is always a + chance of a breakage of some article occurring, through their + leaping and bounding here and there, sometimes very much to the + fear and annoyance of the hostess. Her children, also, unless + they are particularly well-trained and orderly, and she is on + exceedingly friendly terms with the hostess, should not + accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however, + pays her visits in a carriage, the children can be taken in the + vehicle, and remain in it until the visit is over. + +29. FOR MORNING CALLS, it is well to be neatly attired; for a costume +very different to that you generally wear, or anything approaching an +evening dress, will be very much out of place. As a general rule, it may +be said, both in reference to this and all other occasions, it is better +to be under-dressed than over-dressed. + + A strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits, and notice + how soon your visits have been returned. An opinion may thus be + formed as to whether your frequent visits are, or are not, + desirable. There are, naturally, instances when the + circumstances of old age or ill health will preclude any return + of a call; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the + discharge of the duty. + +30. IN PAYING VISITS OF CONDOLENCE, it is to be remembered that they +should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If +the acquaintance, however, is but slight, then immediately after the +family has appeared at public worship. A lady should send in her card, +and if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner and +conversation should be subdued and in harmony with the character of her +visit. Courtesy would dictate that a mourning card should be used, and +that visitors, in paying condoling visits, should be dressed in black, +either silk or plain-coloured apparel. Sympathy with the affliction of +the family, is thus expressed, and these attentions are, in such cases, +pleasing and soothing. + + In all these visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at + home, a card should be left. If in a carriage, the servant will + answer your inquiry and receive your card; if paying your visits + on foot, give your card to the servant in the hall, but leave to + go in and rest should on no account be asked. The form of words, + "Not at home," may be understood in different senses; but the + only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true. + You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, + and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may + think that your acquaintance is not desired; but, in either + case, not the slightest word is to escape you, which would + suggest, on your part, such an impression. + +31. IN RECEIVING MORNING CALLS, the foregoing description of the +etiquette to be observed in paying them, will be of considerable +service. It is to be added, however, that the occupations of drawing, +music, or reading should be suspended on the entrance of morning +visitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, and none +other is appropriate in the drawing-room, it may not be, under some +circumstances, inconsistent with good breeding to quietly continue it +during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted, or the +visitors be gentlemen. + + Formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the + house to the door, and there take leave of them; but modern + society, which has thrown off a great deal of this kind of + ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should + rise from her seat, shake hands, or courtesy, in accordance with + the intimacy she has with her guests, and ring the bell to + summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a + first call, either upon a newly-married couple, or persons newly + arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's + card together with her own, at the same time, stating that the + profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him + from having the pleasure of paying the visit, with her. It is a + custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from + their neighbourhood, to leave or send their own and husband's + cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner. These + letters are the initials of the French words, "_Pour prendre + conge_," meaning, "To take leave." + +32. THE MORNING CALLS BEING PAID OR RECEIVED, and their etiquette +properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most +establishments is "The Dinner;" and we only propose here to make a few +general remarks on this important topic, as, in future pages, the whole +"Art of Dining" will be thoroughly considered, with reference to its +economy, comfort, and enjoyment. + +33. IN GIVING OR ACCEPTING AN INVITATION FOR DINNER, the following is +the form of words generally made use of. They, however, can be varied in +proportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guests:-- + + Mr. and Mrs. A---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. B----, + and request the honour, [or hope to have the pleasure] of their + company + to dinner on Wednesday, the 6th of December next. + + A---- STREET, + _November 13th, 1859. R. S. V. P._ + +The letters in the corner imply "_Repondez, s'il vous plait;_" meaning, +"an answer will oblige." The reply, accepting the invitation, is couched +in the following terms:-- + + Mr. and Mrs. B---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. A---, and + will do themselves the honour of, [or will have much pleasure in] + accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the 6th of December next. + + B---- SQUARE, + _November 18th, 1859._ + + Cards, or invitations for a dinner-party, should be issued a + fortnight or three weeks (sometimes even a month) beforehand, + and care should be taken by the hostess, in the selection of the + invited guests, that they should be suited to each other. Much + also of the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the + arrangement of the guests at table, so as to form a due + admixture of talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay. If an + invitation to dinner is accepted, the guests should be punctual, + and the mistress ready in her drawing-room to receive them. At + some periods it has been considered fashionable to come late to + dinner, but lately _nous avons change tout cela_. + +34. THE HALF-HOUR BEFORE DINNER has always been considered as the great +ordeal through which the mistress, in giving a dinner-party, will either +pass with flying colours, or, lose many of her laurels. The anxiety to +receive her guests,--her hope that all will be present in due time,--her +trust in the skill of her cook, and the attention of the other +domestics, all tend to make these few minutes a trying time. The +mistress, however, must display no kind of agitation, but show her tact +in suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation, which will be +much aided by the introduction of any particular new book, curiosity of +art, or article of vertu, which may pleasantly engage the attention of +the company. "Waiting for Dinner," however, is a trying time, and there +are few who have not felt-- + + "How sad it is to sit and pine, + The long _half-hour_ before we dine! + Upon our watches oft to look, + Then wonder at the clock and cook, + * * * * * + "And strive to laugh in spite of Fate! + But laughter forced soon quits the room, + And leaves it in its former gloom. + But lo! the dinner now appears, + The object of our hopes and fears, + The end of all our pain!" + + In giving an entertainment of this kind, the mistress should + remember that it is her duty to make her guests feel happy, + comfortable, and quite at their ease; and the guests should also + consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be + happy. Thus an opportunity is given to all for innocent + enjoyment and intellectual improvement, when also acquaintances + may be formed that may prove invaluable through life, and + information gained that will enlarge the mind. Many celebrated + men and women have been great talkers; and, amongst others, the + genial Sir Walter Scott, who spoke freely to every one, and a + favourite remark of whom it was, that he never did so without + learning something he didn't know before. + +35. DINNER BEING ANNOUNCED, the host offers his arm to, and places on +his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay +most respect, either on account of her age, position, or from her being +the greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her +husband present, the latter takes the hostess to her place at table, and +seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow in +couples, as specified by the master and mistress of the house, arranging +the party according to their rank and other circumstances which may be +known to the host and hostess. + + It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party + at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly (and + correctly) written on small cards, and placed at that part of + the table where it is desired they should sit. With respect to + the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private + dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the + Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve + is, perhaps, in a general way, sufficient to enjoy themselves + and be enjoyed. White kid gloves are worn by ladies at + dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the business of + dining commences. + +36. THE GUESTS BEING SEATED AT THE DINNER-TABLE, the lady begins to help +the soup, which is handed round, commencing with the gentleman on her +right and on her left, and continuing in the same order till all are +served. It is generally established as a rule, not to ask for soup or +fish twice, as, in so doing, part of the company may be kept waiting too +long for the second course, when, perhaps, a little revenge is taken by +looking at the awkward consumer of a second portion. This rule, however, +may, under various circumstances, not be considered as binding. + + It is not usual, where taking wine is _en regle_, for a + gentleman to ask a lady to take wine until the fish or soup is + finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the + right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she will do him + the honour of taking wine with him. This will act as a signal to + the rest of the company, the gentleman of the house most + probably requesting the same pleasure of the ladies at his right + and left. At many tables, however, the custom or fashion of + drinking wine in this manner, is abolished, and the servant + fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to + the course which is in progress. + +37. WHEN DINNER IS FINISHED, THE DESSERT is placed on the table, +accompanied with finger-glasses. It is the custom of some gentlemen to +wet a corner of the napkin; but the hostess, whose behaviour will set +the tone to all the ladies present, will merely wet the tips of her +fingers, which will serve all the purposes required. The French and +other continentals have a habit of gargling the mouth; but it is a +custom which no English gentlewoman should, in the slightest degree, +imitate. + +38. WHEN FRUIT HAS BEEN TAKEN, and a glass or two of wine passed round, +the time will have arrived when the hostess will rise, and thus give the +signal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen, and retire to the +drawing-room. The gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time, and +he who is nearest the door, will open it for the ladies, all remaining +courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. Dr. Johnson has +a curious paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men. "Before dinner," +he says, "men meet with great inequality of understanding; and those who +are conscious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk. When +they have drunk wine, every man feels himself happy, and loses that +modesty, and grows impudent and vociferous; but he is not improved, he +is only not sensible of his defects." This is rather severe, but there +may be truth in it. + + In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the + guests, it was necessary for the ladies to retire earlier than + they do at present, for the gentlemen of the company soon became + unfit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential + in the presence of ladies. Thanks, however, to the improvements + in modern society, and the high example shown to the nation by + its most illustrious personages, temperance is, in these happy + days, a striking feature in the character of a gentleman. + Delicacy of conduct towards the female sex has increased with + the esteem in which they are now universally held, and thus, the + very early withdrawing of the ladies from the dining-room is to + be deprecated. A lull in the conversation will seasonably + indicate the moment for the ladies' departure. + +39. AFTER-DINNER INVITATIONS MAY BE GIVEN; by which we wish to be +understood, invitations for the evening. The time of the arrival of +these visitors will vary according to their engagements, or sometimes +will be varied in obedience to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited +for the evening are, however, generally considered at liberty to arrive +whenever it will best suit themselves,--usually between nine and twelve, +unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, many +fashionable people and others, who have numerous engagements to fulfil, +often contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the +course of one evening. + +40. THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER-PARTY TABLE being disposed of, let us +now enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball. The +invitations issued and accepted for either of these, will be written in +the same style as those already described for a dinner-party. They +should be sent out _at least_ three weeks before the day fixed for the +event, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. By +attending to these courtesies, the guests will have time to consider +their engagements and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will, also, +know what will be the number of her party. + + If the entertainment is to be simply an evening party, this must + be specified on the card or note of invitation. Short or verbal + invitations, except where persons are exceedingly intimate, or + are very near relations, are very far from proper, although, of + course, in this respect and in many other respects, very much + always depends on the manner in which the invitation is given. + True politeness, however, should be studied even amongst the + nearest friends and relations; for the mechanical forms of good + breeding are of great consequence, and too much familiarity may + have, for its effect, the destruction of friendship. + +41. AS THE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN ARRIVE, each should be shown to a room +exclusively provided for their reception; and in that set apart for the +ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking, and +helping to arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it. It will +be found convenient, in those cases where the number of guests is large, +to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks +and shawls of each lady, a duplicate of which should be handed to the +guest. Coffee is sometimes provided in this, or an ante-room, for those +who would like to partake of it. + +42. AS THE VISITORS ARE ANNOUNCED BY THE SERVANT, it is not necessary +for the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door, but +merely to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies and +congratulations. If, indeed, the hostess wishes to show particular +favour to some peculiarly honoured guests, she may introduce them to +others, whose acquaintance she may imagine will be especially suitable +and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the house +to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the lady +performs this office; when it will, of course, be polite for the persons +thus introduced to take their seats together for the time being. + + The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many + houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the + position and qualities of the people around them. The servant, + indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, + but, in many instances, mispronounces them; so that it will not + be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring + guide. In our opinion, it is a cheerless and depressing custom, + although, in thus speaking, we do not allude to the large + assemblies of the aristocracy, but to the smaller parties of the + middle classes. + +43. A SEPARATE ROOM OR CONVENIENT BUFFET should be appropriated for +refreshments, and to which the dancers may retire; and cakes and +biscuits, with wine negus, lemonade, and ices, handed round. A supper is +also mostly provided at the private parties of the middle classes; and +this requires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and +supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second parts +of the programme of the dances, of which there should be several +prettily written or printed copies distributed about the ball-room. + + _In private parties_, a lady is not to refuse the invitation of + a gentleman to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The + hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those + persons whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of + unblemished character, as well as pretty equal in position; and + thus, to decline the offer of any gentleman present, would be a + tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the house. It may + be mentioned here, more especially for the young who will read + this book, that introductions at balls or evening parties, cease + with the occasion that calls them forth, no introduction, at + these times, giving a gentleman a right to address, afterwards, + a lady. She is, consequently, free, next morning, to pass her + partner at a ball of the previous evening without the slightest + recognition. + +44. THE BALL IS GENERALLY OPENED, that is, the first place in the first +quadrille is occupied, by the lady of the house. When anything prevents +this, the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady who is +either the highest in rank, or the greatest stranger. It will be well +for the hostess, even if she be very partial to the amusement, and a +graceful dancer, not to participate in it to any great extent, lest her +lady guests should have occasion to complain of her monopoly of the +gentlemen, and other causes of neglect. A few dances will suffice to +show her interest in the entertainment, without unduly trenching on the +attention due to her guests. In all its parts a ball should be +perfect,-- + + "The music, and the banquet, and the wine; + The garlands, the rose-odours, and the flowers." + + The hostess or host, during the progress of a ball, will + courteously accost and chat with their friends, and take care + that the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who + wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint from the + hostess, conveyed in a quiet ladylike manner, that certain + ladies have remained unengaged during several dances, is sure + not to be neglected by any gentleman. Thus will be studied the + comfort and enjoyment of the guests, and no lady, in leaving the + house, will be able to feel the chagrin and disappointment of + not having been invited to "stand up" in a dance during the + whole of the evening. + +45. WHEN ANY OF THE CARRIAGES OF THE GUESTS ARE ANNOUNCED, or the time +for their departure arrived, they should make a slight intimation to the +hostess, without, however, exciting any observation, that they are about +to depart. If this cannot be done, however, without creating too much +bustle, it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without +taking their leave. During the course of the week, the hostess will +expect to receive from every guest a call, where it is possible, or +cards expressing the gratification experienced from her entertainment. +This attention is due to every lady for the pains and trouble she has +been at, and tends to promote social, kindly feelings. + +46. HAVING THUS DISCOURSED of parties of pleasure, it will be an +interesting change to return to the more domestic business of the house, +although all the details we have been giving of dinner-parties, balls, +and the like, appertain to the department of the mistress. Without a +knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistress +would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly pleasant meetings +which give, as it were, a fillip to life, and make the quiet happy home +of an English gentlewoman appear the more delightful and enjoyable. In +their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the +dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables, +will be set forth in this work. + +47. A FAMILY DINNER AT HOME, compared with either giving or going to a +dinner-party, is, of course, of much more frequent occurrence, and many +will say, of much greater importance. Both, however, have to be +considered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment; and the latter +more particularly with reference to economy. These points will be +especially noted in the following pages on "Household Cookery." Here we +will only say, that for both mistress and servants, as well in large as +small households, it will be found, by far, the better plan, to cook and +serve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the +same cleanliness, neatness, and scrupulous exactness, whether it be for +the mistress herself alone, a small family, or for "company." If this +rule be strictly adhered to, all will find themselves increase in +managing skill; whilst a knowledge of their daily duties will become +familiar, and enable them to meet difficult occasions with ease, and +overcome any amount of obstacles. + +48. OF THE MANNER OF PASSING EVENINGS AT HOME, there is none pleasanter +than in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind from +its severer duties, whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight. +Where there are young people forming a part of the evening circle, +interesting and agreeable pastime should especially be promoted. It is +of incalculable benefit to them that their homes should possess all the +attractions of healthful amusement, comfort, and happiness; for if they +do not find pleasure there, they will seek it elsewhere. It ought, +therefore, to enter into the domestic policy of every parent, to make +her children feel that home is the happiest place in the world; that to +imbue them with this delicious home-feeling is one of the choicest gifts +a parent can bestow. + + Light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's + recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be + varied by an occasional game at chess or backgammon. It has + often been remarked, too, that nothing is more delightful to the + feminine members of a family, than the reading aloud of some + good standard work or amusing publication. A knowledge of polite + literature may be thus obtained by the whole family, especially + if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult + passages of the book, and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties + it may contain. This plan, in a great measure, realizes the + advice of Lord Bacon, who says, "Read not to contradict and + refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk + and discourse, but to weigh and consider." + +49. IN RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT, it is well to remember that early rising +is almost impossible, if late going to bed be the order, or rather +disorder, of the house. The younger members of a family should go early +and at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as +possible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the +mistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, +see that all is right with respect to the lights and fires below; and no +servants should, on any account, be allowed to remain up after the heads +of the house have retired. + +50. HAVING THUS GONE FROM EARLY RISING TO EARLY RETIRING, there remain +only now to be considered a few special positions respecting which the +mistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information. + +51. WHEN A MISTRESS TAKES A HOUSE in a new locality, it will be +etiquette for her to wait until the older inhabitants of the +neighbourhood call upon her; thus evincing a desire, on their part, to +become acquainted with the new comer. It may be, that the mistress will +desire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours; but it +is to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, +friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned. + +52. YOU MAY PERHAPS HAVE BEEN FAVOURED with letters of introduction from +some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which +you have just come. In this case inclose the letter of introduction in +an envelope with your card. Then, if the person, to whom it is +addressed, calls in the course of a few days, the visit should be +returned by you within the week, if possible. Any breach of etiquette, +in this respect, will not readily be excused. + + In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above + circumstances, nothing but necessity should prevent you from + accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct + reason why you cannot accept, let it be stated frankly and + plainly, for politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied. + An opportunity should, also, be taken to call in the course of a + day or two, in order to politely express your regret and + disappointment at not having been able to avail yourself of + their kindness. + +53. IN GIVING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION, it should always be handed to +your friend, unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom you +are introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or she +was spoken of. Should you _receive_ a letter from a friend, introducing +to you any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter should +be immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed to do all in +your power to carry out his or her wishes. + +54. SUCH ARE THE ONEROUS DUTIES which enter into the position of the +mistress of a house, and such are, happily, with a slight but continued +attention, of by no means difficult performance. She ought always to +remember that she is the first and the last, the Alpha and the Omega in +the government of her establishment; and that it is by her conduct that +its whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of +far more importance in a community than she usually thinks she is. On +her pattern her daughters model themselves; by her counsels they are +directed; through her virtues all are honoured;--"her children rise up +and call her blessed; her husband, also, and he praiseth her." +Therefore, let each mistress always remember her responsible position, +never approving a mean action, nor speaking an unrefined word. Let her +conduct be such that her inferiors may respect her, and such as an +honourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife and the mother +of his children. Let her think of the many compliments and the sincere +homage that have been paid to her sex by the greatest philosophers and +writers, both in ancient and modern times. Let her not forget that she +has to show herself worthy of Campbell's compliment when he said,-- + + "The world was sad! the garden was a wild! + And man the hermit sigh'd, till _woman_ smiled." + +Let her prove herself, then, the happy companion of man, and able to +take unto herself the praises of the pious prelate, Jeremy Taylor, who +says,--"A good wife is Heaven's last best gift to man,--his angel and +minister of graces innumerable,--his gem of many virtues,--his casket of +jewels--her voice is sweet music--her smiles his brightest day;--her +kiss, the guardian of his innocence;--her arms, the pale of his safety, +the balm of his health, the balsam of his life;--her industry, his +surest wealth;--her economy, his safest steward;--her lips, his faithful +counsellors;--her bosom, the softest pillow of his cares; and her +prayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven's blessings on his head." + +Cherishing, then, in her breast the respected utterances of the good and +the great, let the mistress of every house rise to the responsibility of +its management; so that, in doing her duty to all around her, she may +receive the genuine reward of respect, love, and affection! + +_Note_.--Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, +and it is well known that "three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as +a fire." Nevertheless, it being quite evident that we must, in these +days at least, live in houses, and are sometimes obliged to change our +residences, it is well to consider some of the conditions which will add +to, or diminish, the convenience and comfort of our homes. + +Although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many different +circumstances with different people, that to give any specific +directions on this head would be impossible and useless; yet it will be +advantageous, perhaps, to many, if we point out some of those general +features as to locality, soil, aspect, &c., to which the attention of +all house-takers should be carefully directed. + +Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking now more particularly of a +town house, that it is very important to the health and comfort of a +family, that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind, producing +unwholesome effluvia or smells, should be strictly avoided. Neither is +it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade +is carried on, as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends to +increase any existing irritation of the system. + +Referring to soils; it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is superior +to any other, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is +consequently drier and less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far +longer time. A clay country, too, is not so pleasant for walking +exercise as one in which gravel predominates. + +The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should be +borne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house, the +healthier is the habitation. The close, fetid smell which assails one on +entering a narrow court, or street, in towns, is to be assigned to the +want of light, and, consequently, air. A house with a south or +south-west aspect, is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently more +healthy, than one facing the north or north-east. + +Great advances have been made, during the last few years, in the +principles of sanitary knowledge, and one most essential point to be +observed in reference to a house, is its "drainage," as it has been +proved in an endless number of cases, that bad or defective drainage is +as certain to destroy health as the taking of poisons. This arises from +its injuriously affecting the atmosphere; thus rendering the air we +breathe unwholesome and deleterious. Let it be borne in mind, then, that +unless a house is effectually drained, the health of its inhabitants is +sure to suffer; and they will be susceptible of ague, rheumatism, +diarrhoea, fevers, and cholera. + +We now come to an all-important point,--that of the water supply. The +value of this necessary article has also been lately more and more +recognized in connection with the question of health and life; and most +houses are well supplied with every convenience connected with water. +Let it, however, be well understood, that no house, however suitable in +other respects, can be desirable, if this grand means of health and +comfort is, in the slightest degree, scarce or impure. No caution can be +too great to see that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful; for, +knowing, as we do, that not a single part of our daily food is prepared +without it, the importance of its influence on the health of the inmates +of a house cannot be over-rated. + +Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. In a +general way, enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors and +windows; but if this be not the case, the chimney will smoke; and other +plans, such as the placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in the +upper part of the window, must be used. Cold air should never be +admitted under the doors, or at the bottom of a room, unless it be close +to the fire or stove; for it will flow along the floor towards the +fireplace, and thus leave the foul air in the upper part of the room, +unpurified, cooling, at the same time, unpleasantly and injuriously, the +feet and legs of the inmates. + +The rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth of +the whole income of its occupier; and, as a general rule, we are +disposed to assent to this estimate, although there may be many +circumstances which would not admit of its being considered infallible. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +THE HOUSEKEEPER. + +55. AS SECOND IN COMMAND IN THE HOUSE, except in large establishments, +where there is a house steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as +the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring, to the +management of the household, all those qualities of honesty, industry, +and vigilance, in the same degree as if she were at the head of her +_own_ family. Constantly on the watch to detect any wrong-doing on the +part of any of the domestics, she will overlook all that goes on in the +house, and will see that every department is thoroughly attended to, and +that the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their various +duties are properly performed. + + Cleanliness, punctuality, order, and method, are essentials in + the character of a good housekeeper. Without the first, no + household can be said to be well managed. The second is equally + all-important; for those who are under the housekeeper will take + their "cue" from her; and in the same proportion as punctuality + governs her movements, so will it theirs. Order, again, is + indispensable; for by it we wish to be understood that "there + should be a place for everything, and everything in its place." + Method, too, is most necessary; for when the work is properly + contrived, and each part arranged in regular succession, it will + be done more quickly and more effectually. + +56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is, that she should +thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books an +accurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose, all the +current expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, and other extraneous +matter. As we have mentioned under the head of the Mistress (_see_ 16), +a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically balanced, and examined +by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both +employer and employed, than this arrangement. "Short reckonings make +long friends," stands good in this case, as in others. + + It will be found an excellent plan to take an account of every + article which comes into the house connected with housekeeping, + and is not paid for at the time. The book containing these + entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the + various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into + and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will, by this means, + too, be better able to judge of the average consumption of each + article by the household; and if that quantity be, at any time, + exceeded, the cause may be discovered and rectified, if it + proceed from waste or carelessness. + +57. ALTHOUGH IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE COOK, the housekeeper does not +generally much interfere, yet it is necessary that she should possess a +good knowledge of the culinary art, as, in many instances, it may be +requisite for her to take the superintendence of the kitchen. As a rule, +it may be stated, that the housekeeper, in those establishments where +there is no house steward or man cook, undertakes the preparation of the +confectionary, attends to the preserving and pickling of fruits and +vegetables; and, in a general way, to the more difficult branches of the +art of cookery. + + Much of these arrangements will depend, however, on the + qualifications of the cook; for instance, if she be an able + artiste, there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper + to interfere, except in the already noticed articles of + confectionary, &c. On the contrary, if the cook be not so clever + an adept in her art, then it will be requisite for the + housekeeper to give more of her attention to the business of the + kitchen, than in the former case. It will be one of the duties + of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing, in the absence of + either a house steward or man cook. + +58. THE DAILY DUTIES OF A HOUSEKEEPER are regulated, in a great measure, +by the extent of the establishment she superintends. She should, +however, rise early, and see that all the domestics are duly performing +their work, and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for the +preparation of the breakfast for the household and family. After +breakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the +"housekeeper's room" with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, and where +they will be waited on by the still-room maid, she will, on various days +set apart for each purpose, carefully examine the household linen, with +a view to its being repaired, or to a further quantity being put in hand +to be made; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is +well rubbed and polished; and will, besides, attend to all the necessary +details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen. + + The housekeeper's room is generally made use of by the + lady's-maid, butler, and valet, who take there their breakfast, + tea, and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as + a sitting-room, when not engaged with her lady, or with some + other duties, which would call her elsewhere. In different + establishments, according to their size and the rank of the + family, different rules of course prevail. For instance, in the + mansions of those of very high rank, and where there is a house + steward, there are two distinct tables kept, one in the + steward's room for the principal members of the household, the + other in the servants' hall, for the other domestics. At the + steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and + here, also, are present the lady's-maid, butler, valet, and head + gardener. Should any visitors be staying with the family, their + servants, generally the valet and lady's-maid, will be admitted + to the steward's table. + +59. AFTER DINNER, the housekeeper, having seen that all the members of +the establishment have regularly returned to their various duties, and +that all the departments of the household are in proper working order, +will have many important matters claiming her attention. She will, +possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article of +confectionary, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes +of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creams +to make; and all these employments call for no ordinary degree of care, +taste, and attention. + + The still-room was formerly much more in vogue than at present; + for in days of "auld lang syne," the still was in constant + requisition for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters for the + purposes of cookery, scents and aromatic substances used in the + preparation of the toilet, and cordials in cases of accidents + and illness. There are some establishments, however, in which + distillation is still carried on, and in these, the still-room + maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however, + this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For + the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the + breakfast-table, and waits at the different meals taken in the + housekeeper's room (_see_ 58). A still-room maid may learn a + very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connection + with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may + soon fit herself for a better position in the household. + +60. IN THE EVENING, the housekeeper will often busy herself with the +necessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, but +still important arrangements, will have to be made, so that everything +may move smoothly. At times, perhaps, attention will have to be paid to +the breaking of lump-sugar, the stoning of raisins, the washing, +cleansing, and drying of currants, &c. The evening, too, is the best +time for setting right her account of the expenditure, and duly writing +a statement of moneys received and paid, and also for making memoranda +of any articles she may require for her storeroom or other departments. + + Periodically, at some convenient time,--for instance, quarterly + or half-yearly, it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an + inventory of everything she has under her care, and compare this + with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to + furnish a statement, if necessary, of the articles which, on + account of time, breakage, loss, or other causes, it has been + necessary to replace or replenish. + +61. IN CONCLUDING THESE REMARKS on the duties of the housekeeper, we +will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches to +her position. Like "Caesar's wife," she should be "above suspicion," and +her honesty and sobriety unquestionable; for there are many temptations +to which she is exposed. In a physical point of view, a housekeeper +should be healthy and strong, and be particularly clean in her person, +and her hands, although they may show a degree of roughness, from the +nature of some of her employments, yet should have a nice inviting +appearance. In her dealings with the various tradesmen, and in her +behaviour to the domestics under her, the demeanour and conduct of the +housekeeper should be such as, in neither case, to diminish, by an undue +familiarity, her authority or influence. + +_Note_.--It will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know the +best seasons for various occupations connected with Household +Management; and we, accordingly, subjoin a few hints which we think will +prove valuable. + +As, in the winter months, servants have much more to do, in consequence +of the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughout +the household, not much more than the ordinary every-day work can be +attempted. + +In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics more +leisure, then any extra work that is required, can be more easily +performed. + +The spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, and +removing all the dust and dirt, which will necessarily, with the best of +housewives, accumulate during the winter months, from the smoke of the +coal, oil, gas, &c. This season is also well adapted for washing and +bleaching linen, &c., as, the weather, not being then too hot for the +exertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy things +in general, the work is better and more easily done than in the intense +heats of July, which month some recommend for these purposes. Winter +curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white ones; +and furs and woollen cloths also carefully laid by. The former should be +well shaken and brushed, and then pinned upon paper or linen, with +camphor to preserve them from the moths. Furs, &c., will be preserved in +the same way. Included, under the general description of house-cleaning, +must be understood, turning out all the nooks and corners of drawers, +cupboards, lumber-rooms, lofts, &c., with a view of getting rid of all +unnecessary articles, which only create dirt and attract vermin; +sweeping of chimneys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing the +kitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally +speaking, the house putting on, with the approaching summer, a bright +appearance, and a new face, in unison with nature. Oranges now should be +preserved, and orange wine made. + +The summer will be found, as we have mentioned above, in consequence of +the diminution of labour for the domestics, the best period for +examining and repairing household linen, and for "putting to rights" all +those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during +the dark winter days. In direct reference to this matter, we may here +remark, that sheets should be turned "sides to middle" before they are +allowed to get very thin. Otherwise, patching, which is uneconomical +from the time it consumes, and is unsightly in point of appearance, will +have to be resorted to. In June and July, gooseberries, currants, +raspberries, strawberries, and other summer fruits, should be preserved, +and jams and jellies made. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup +should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching +perfection for this purpose. Mixed pickles may also be now made, and it +will be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice (for the +making of which all information will be given in future pages), into +which to put occasionally some young French beans, cauliflowers, &c. + +In the early autumn, plums of various kinds are to be bottled and +preserved, and jams and jellies made. A little later, tomato sauce, a +most useful article to have by you, may be prepared; a supply of apples +laid in, if you have a place to keep them, as also a few keeping pears +and filberts. Endeavour to keep also a large vegetable marrow,--it will +be found delicious in the winter. + +In October and November, it will be necessary to prepare for the cold +weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of +the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, +the fireplaces, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the House put in a +thorough state of repair, so that no "loose tile" may, at a future day, +interfere with your comfort, and extract something considerable from +your pocket. + +In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the +creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet old +Christmas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder; and in +stoning the plums, washing the currants, cutting the citron, beating the +eggs, and MIXING THE PUDDING, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the +genial season of all good things. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN. + +62. "THE DISTRIBUTION OF A KITCHEN," says Count Rumford, the celebrated +philosopher and physician, who wrote so learnedly on all subjects +connected with domestic economy and architecture, "must always depend so +much on local circumstances, that general rules can hardly be given +respecting it; the principles, however, on which this distribution +ought, in all cases, to be made, are simple and easy to be understood," +and, in his estimation, these resolve themselves into symmetry of +proportion in the building and convenience to the cook. The requisites +of a good kitchen, however, demand something more special than is here +pointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of +every household, and that much of the "weal or woe," as far as regards +bodily health, depends upon the nature of the preparations concocted +within its walls. A good kitchen, therefore, should be erected with a +view to the following particulars. 1. Convenience of distribution in its +parts, with largeness of dimension. 2. Excellence of light, height of +ceiling, and good ventilation. 3. Easiness of access, without passing +through the house. 4. Sufficiently remote from the principal apartments +of the house, that the members, visitors, or guests of the family, may +not perceive the odour incident to cooking, or hear the noise of +culinary operations. 5. Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the +scullery, pantry, and storeroom, should be so near it, as to offer the +smallest possible trouble in reaching them. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 1.] + + The kitchens of the Middle Ages, in England, are said to have + been constructed after the fashion of those of the Romans. They + were generally octagonal, with several fireplaces, but no + chimneys; neither was there any wood admitted into the building. + The accompanying cut, fig. 1, represents the turret which was + erected on the top of the conical roof of the kitchen at + Glastonbury Abbey, and which was perforated with holes to allow + the smoke of the fire, as well as the steam from cooking, to + escape. Some kitchens had funnels or vents below the eaves to + let out the steam, which was sometimes considerable, as the + Anglo-Saxons used their meat chiefly in a boiled state. From + this circumstance, some of their large kitchens had four ranges, + comprising a boiling-place for small boiled meats, and a + boiling-house for the great boiler. In private houses the + culinary arrangements were no doubt different; for Du Cange + mentions a little kitchen with a chamber, even in a solarium, or + upper floor. + +63. THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES has frequently been an object +of poetical admiration, and it delights the imagination to picture men +living upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, and +desiring no other beverages to slake their thirst, but such as fountains +and rivers supply. Thus we are told, that the ancient inhabitants of +Argos lived principally on pears; that the Arcadians revelled in acorns, +and the Athenians in figs. This, of course, was in the golden age, +before ploughing began, and when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plenty +without having to earn their bread "by the sweat of their brow." This +delightful period, however, could not last for ever, and the earth +became barren, and continued unfruitful till Ceres came and taught the +art of sowing, with several other useful inventions. The first whom she +taught to till the ground was Triptolemus, who communicated his +instructions to his countrymen the Athenians. Thence the art was carried +into Achaia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first grain that +was used, and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to Pan. + + The use of fire, as an instrument of cookery, must have been + coeval with this invention of bread, which, being the most + necessary of all kinds of food, was frequently used in a sense + so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink. It was, by + the Greeks, baked under the ashes. + +64. IN THE PRIMARY AGES it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh, and when +mankind began to depart from their primitive habits, the flesh of swine +was the first that was eaten. For several ages, it was pronounced +unlawful to slaughter oxen, from an estimate of their great value in +assisting men to cultivate the ground; nor was it usual to kill young +animals, from a sentiment which considered it cruel to take away the +life of those that had scarcely tasted the joys of existence. + + At this period no cooks were kept, and we know from Homer that + his ancient heroes prepared and dressed their victuals with + their own hands. Ulysses, for example, we are told, like a + modern charwoman, excelled at lighting a fire, whilst Achilles + was an adept at turning a spit. Subsequently, heralds, employed + in civil and military affairs, filled the office of cooks, and + managed marriage feasts; but this, no doubt, was after mankind + had advanced in the art of living, a step further than + _roasting_, which, in all places, was the ancient manner of + dressing meat. + +65. THE AGE OF ROASTING we may consider as that in which the use of the +metals would be introduced as adjuncts to the culinary art; and amongst +these, iron, the most useful of them all, would necessarily take a +prominent place. This metal is easily oxidized, but to bring it to a +state of fusibility, it requires a most intense heat. Of all the metals, +it is the widest diffused and most abundant; and few stones or mineral +bodies are without an admixture of it. It possesses the valuable +property of being welded by hammering; and hence its adaptation to the +numerous purposes of civilized life. + + Metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and a + twelfth of the weight of the wood of dried oak is said to + consist of this metal. Blood owes its colour of redness to the + quantity of iron it contains, and rain and snow are seldom + perfectly free from it. In the arts it is employed in three + states,--as _cast_ iron, _wrought_ iron, and _steel_. In each of + these it largely enters into the domestic economy, and stoves, + grates, and the general implements of cookery, are usually + composed of it. In antiquity, its employment was, comparatively + speaking, equally universal. The excavations made at Pompeii + have proved this. The accompanying cuts present us with + specimens of stoves, both ancient and modern. Fig. 2 is the + remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of Pansa, at + Pompeii, and would seem, in its perfect state, not to have been + materially different from such as are in use at the present day. + Fig. 3 is a self-acting, simple open range in modern use, and + may be had of two qualities, ranging, according to their + dimensions, from L3. 10s. and L3. 18s. respectively, up to L4. + 10s. and L7. 5s. They are completely fitted up with oven, + boiler, sliding cheek, wrought-iron bars, revolving shelves, and + brass tap. Fig. 4, is called the Improved Leamington Kitchener, + and is said to surpass any other range in use, for easy cooking + by one fire. It has a hot plate, which is well calculated for an + ironing-stove, and on which as many vessels as will stand upon + it, may be kept boiling, without being either soiled or injured. + Besides, it has a perfectly ventilated and spacious wrought-iron + roaster, with movable shelves, draw-out stand, double + dripping-pan, and meat-stand. The roaster can be converted into + an oven by closing the valves, when bread and pastry can be + baked in it in a superior manner. It also has a large iron + boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons + for chops and steaks, ash-pan, open fire for roasting, and a set + of ornamental covings with plate-warmer attached. It took a + first-class prize and medal in the Great Exhibition of 1851, and + was also exhibited, with all the recent improvements, at the + Dublin Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 is another kitchener, adapted + for large families. It has on the one side, a large ventilated + oven; and on the other, the fire and roaster. The hot plate is + over all, and there is a back boiler, made of wrought iron, with + brass tap and steam-pipe. In other respects it resembles Fig. 4, + with which it possesses similar advantages of construction. + Either maybe had at varying prices, according to size, from L5. + 15s. up to L23. 10s. They are supplied by Messrs. Richard & John + Slack 336, Strand, London. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 2.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 3.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 4.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 5.] + +66. FROM KITCHEN RANGES to the implements used in cookery is but a step. +With these, every kitchen should be well supplied, otherwise the cook +must not be expected to "perform her office" in a satisfactory manner. +Of the culinary utensils of the ancients, our knowledge is very limited; +but as the art of living, in every civilized country, is pretty much the +same, the instruments for cooking must, in a great degree, bear a +striking resemblance to each other. On referring to classical +antiquities, we find mentioned, among household utensils, leather bags, +baskets constructed of twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes, basins, and +bellows; bread-moulds, brooms, and brushes; caldrons, colanders, +cisterns, and chafing-dishes; cheese-rasps, knives, and ovens of the +Dutch kind; funnels and frying-pans; handmills, soup-ladles, milk-pails, +and oil-jars; presses, scales, and sieves; spits of different sizes, but +some of them large enough to roast an ox; spoons, fire-tongs, trays, +trenchers, and drinking-vessels; with others for carrying food, +preserving milk, and holding cheese. This enumeration, if it does +nothing else, will, to some extent, indicate the state of the simpler +kinds of mechanical arts among the ancients. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 6.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 7.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 8.] + + In so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the + kitchen utensils enumerated above, they bore a great resemblance + to our own. This will be seen by the accompanying cuts. Fig. 6 + is an ancient stock-pot in bronze, which seems to have been made + to hang over the fire, and was found in the buried city of + Pompeii. Fig. 7 is one of modern make, and may be obtained + either of copper or wrought iron, tinned inside. Fig. 8 is + another of antiquity, with a large ladle and colander, with + holes attached. It is taken from the column of Trajan. The + modern ones can be obtained at all prices, according to size, + from 13s. 6d. up to L1. 1s. + +67. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE UTENSILS, bronze metal seems to have +been much in favour with the ancients. It was chosen not only for their +domestic vessels, but it was also much used for their public sculptures +and medals. It is a compound, composed of from six to twelve parts of +tin to one hundred of copper. It gives its name to figures and all +pieces of sculpture made of it. Brass was another favourite metal, which +is composed of copper and zinc. It is more fusible than copper, and not +so apt to tarnish. In a pure state it is not malleable, unless when hot, +and after it has been melted twice it will not bear the hammer. To +render it capable of being wrought, it requires 7 lb. of lead to be put +to 1 cwt. of its own material. + + The Corinthian brass of antiquity was a mixture of silver, gold, + and copper. A fine kind of brass, supposed to be made by the + cementation of copper plates with calamine, is, in Germany, + hammered out into leaves, and is called Dutch metal in this + country. It is employed in the same way as gold leaf. Brass is + much used for watchworks, as well as for wire. + +68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colanders +of antiquity might generally pass for those of the English manufacture +of the present day, in so far as shape is concerned. In proof of this we +have placed together the following similar articles of ancient and +modern pattern, in order that the reader may, at a single view, see +wherein any difference that is between them, consists. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 9. Modern.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 10. Ancient.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 11. Modern.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 12. Ancient.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 13. Modern.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 14. Ancient.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 15. Modern.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 16. Modern.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 17. Ancient.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 18. Ancient.] + + _Figs_. 9 and 10 are flat sauce or _saute_ pans, the ancient one + being fluted in the handle, and having at the end a ram's head. + Figs. 11 and 12 are colanders, the handle of the ancient one + being adorned, in the original, with carved representations of a + cornucopia, a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. Any + display of taste in the adornment of such utensils, might seem + to be useless; but when we remember how much more natural it is + for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly, than of + the plain and cheap, it may even become a question in the + economy of a kitchen, whether it would not, in the long run, be + cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity + in their manufacture, than such as are so perfectly plain as to + have no attractions whatever beyond their mere suitableness to + the purposes for which they are made. Figs. 13 and 14 are + saucepans, the ancient one being of bronze, originally copied + from the cabinet of M. l'Abbe Charlet, and engraved in the + Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 are gridirons, and 16 + and 18 dripping-pans. In all these utensils the resemblance + between such as were in use 2,000 years ago, and those in use at + the present day, is strikingly manifest. + +69. SOME OF THE ANCIENT UTENSILS represented in the above cuts, are +copied from those found amid the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. These +Roman cities were, in the first century, buried beneath the lava of an +eruption of Vesuvius, and continued to be lost to the world till the +beginning of the last century, when a peasant, in digging for a well, +gradually discovered a small temple with some statues. Little notice, +however, was taken of this circumstance till 1736, when the king of +Naples, desiring to erect a palace at Portici, caused extensive +excavations to be made, when the city of Herculaneum was slowly unfolded +to view. Pompeii was discovered about 1750, and being easier cleared +from the lava in which it had so long been entombed, disclosed itself as +it existed immediately before the catastrophe which overwhelmed it, +nearly two thousand years ago. It presented, to the modern world, the +perfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient Roman city. The +interior of its habitations, shops, baths, theatres, and temples, were +all disclosed, with many of the implements used by the workmen in their +various trades, and the materials on which they were employed, when the +doomed city was covered with the lavian stream. + +70. AMONGST THE MOST ESSENTIAL REQUIREMENTS of the kitchen are scales or +weighing-machines for family use. These are found to have existed among +the ancients, and must, at a very early age, have been both publicly and +privately employed for the regulation of quantities. The modern English +weights were adjusted by the 27th chapter of Magna Charta, or the great +charter forced, by the barons, from King John at Runnymede, in Surrey. +Therein it is declared that the weights, all over England, shall be the +same, although for different commodities there were two different kinds, +Troy and Avoirdupois. The origin of both is taken from a grain of wheat +gathered in the middle of an ear. The standard of measures was +originally kept at Winchester, and by a law of King Edgar was ordained +to be observed throughout the kingdom. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 19.] + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 20.] + + Fig. 19 is an ancient pair of common scales, with two basins and + a movable weight, which is made in the form of a head, covered + with the pileus, because Mercury had the weights and measures + under his superintendence. It is engraved on a stone in the + gallery of Florence. Fig. 20 represents a modern + weighing-machine, of great convenience, and generally in use in + those establishments where a great deal of cooking is carried + on. + +71. ACCOMPANYING THE SCALES, or weighing-machines, there should be +spice-boxes, and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japanned +tin. The covers of these should fit tightly, in order to exclude the +air, and if necessary, be lettered in front, to distinguish them. The +white metal of which they are usually composed, loses its colour when +exposed to the air, but undergoes no further change. It enters largely +into the composition of culinary utensils, many of them being entirely +composed of tinned sheet-iron; the inside of copper and iron vessels +also, being usually what is called _tinned_. This art consists of +covering any metal with a thin coating of tin; and it requires the metal +to be covered, to be perfectly clean and free from rust, and also that +the tin, itself, be purely metallic, and entirely cleared from all ashes +or refuse. Copper boilers, saucepans, and other kitchen utensils, are +tinned after they are manufactured, by being first made hot and the tin +rubbed on with resin. In this process, nothing ought to be used but pure +grain-tin. Lead, however, is sometimes mixed with that metal, not only +to make it lie more easily, but to adulterate it--a pernicious practice, +which in every article connected with the cooking and preparation of +food, cannot be too severely reprobated.--The following list, supplied +by Messrs. Richard & John Slack, 336, Strand, will show the articles +required for the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life, +although it does not contain all the things that may be deemed necessary +for some families, and may contain more than are required for others. As +Messrs. Slack themselves, however, publish a useful illustrated +catalogue, which may be had at their establishment _gratis_, and which +it will be found advantageous to consult by those about to furnish, it +supersedes the necessity of our enlarging that which we give:-- + + s. d. + + 1 Tea-kettle 6 6 + 1 Toasting-fork 1 0 + 1 Bread-grater 1 0 + 1 Pair of Brass Candlesticks 3 6 + 1 Teapot and Tray 6 6 + 1 Bottle-jack 9 6 + 6 Spoons 1 6 + 2 Candlesticks 2 6 + 1 Candle-box 1 4 + 6 Knives and Forks 5 3 + 2 Sets of Skewers 1 0 + 1 Meat-chopper 1 9 + 1 Cinder-sifter 1 3 + 1 Coffee-pot 2 3 + 1 Colander 1 6 + 3 Block-tin Saucepans 5 9 + 5 Iron Saucepans 12 0 + 1 Ditto and Steamer 6 6 + 1 Large Boiling-pot 10 0 + 4 Iron Stewpans 8 9 + 1 Dripping-pan and Stand 6 6 + 1 Dustpan 1 0 + 1 Fish and Egg-slice 1 9 + 2 Fish-kettles 10 0 + 1 Flour-box 1 0 + 3 Flat-irons 3 6 + 2 Frying-pans 4 0 + 1 Gridiron 2 0 + 1 Mustard-pot 1 0 + 1 Salt-cellar 0 8 + 1 Pepper-box 0 6 + 1 Pair of Bellows 2 0 + 3 Jelly-moulds 8 0 + 1 Plate-basket 5 6 + 1 Cheese-toaster 1 10 + 1 Coal-shovel 2 6 + 1 Wood Meat-screen 30 0 + + The Set L8 11 1 + + +72. AS NOT ONLY HEALTH BUT LIFE may be said to depend on the cleanliness +of culinary utensils, great attention must be paid to their condition +generally, but more especially to that of the saucepans, stewpans, and +boilers. Inside they should be kept perfectly clean, and where an open +fire is used, the outside as clean as possible. With a Leamington range, +saucepans, stewpans, &c., can be kept entirely free from smoke and soot +on the outside, which is an immense saving of labour to the cook or +scullery-maid. Care should be taken that the lids fit tight and close, +so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation. +They should be made to keep the steam in and the smoke out, and should +always be bright on the upper rim, where they do not immediately come in +contact with the fire. Soup-pots and kettles should be washed +immediately After being used, and dried before the fire, and they should +be kept in a dry place, in order that they may escape the deteriorating +influence of rust, and, thereby, be destroyed. Copper utensils should +never be used in the kitchen unless tinned, and the utmost care should +be taken, not to let the tin be rubbed off. If by chance this should +occur, have it replaced before the vessel is again brought into use. +Neither soup nor gravy should, at any time, be suffered to remain in +them longer than is absolutely necessary, as any fat or acid that is in +them, may affect the metal, so as to impregnate with poison what is +intended to be eaten. Stone and earthenware vessels should be provided +for soups and gravies not intended for immediate use, and, also, plenty +of common dishes for the larder, that the table-set may not be used for +such purposes. It is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour, when +they are apt to corrode glazed red-ware, and even metals, and +frequently, thereby, to become impregnated with poisonous particles. The +vinegar also in pickles, by its acidity, does the same. Consideration, +therefore, should be given to these facts, and great care also taken +that all _sieves, jelly-bags,_ and tapes for collared articles, be well +scalded and kept dry, or they will impart an unpleasant flavour when +next used. To all these directions the cook should pay great attention, +nor should they, by any means, be neglected by the _mistress of the +household_, who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen gives +health and happiness to home, whilst economy will immeasurably assist in +preserving them. + +73. WITHOUT FUEL, A KITCHEN might be pronounced to be of little use; +therefore, to discover and invent materials for supplying us with the +means of domestic heat and comfort, has exercised the ingenuity of man. +Those now known have been divided into five classes; the first +comprehending the fluid inflammable bodies; the second, peat or turf; +the third, charcoal of wood; the fourth, pit-coal charred; and the +fifth, wood or pit-coal in a crude state, with the capacity of yielding +a copious and bright flame. The first may be said seldom to be employed +for the purposes of cookery; but _peat_, especially amongst rural +populations, has, in all ages, been regarded as an excellent fuel. It is +one of the most important productions of an alluvial soil, and belongs +to the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom. It may be described as +composed of wet, spongy black earth, held together by decayed +vegetables. Formerly it covered extensive tracts in England, but has +greatly disappeared before the genius of agricultural improvement. +_Charcoal_ is a kind of artificial coal, used principally where a strong +and clear fire is desired. It is a black, brittle, insoluble, inodorous, +tasteless substance, and, when newly-made, possesses the remarkable +property of absorbing certain quantities of the different gases. Its +dust, when used as a polishing powder, gives great brilliancy to metals. +It consists of wood half-burned, and is manufactured by cutting pieces +of timber into nearly the same size, then disposing them in heaps, and +covering them with earth, so as to prevent communication with the air, +except when necessary to make them burn. When they have been +sufficiently charred, the fire is extinguished by stopping the vents +through which the air is admitted. Of _coal_ there are various species; +as, pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulphurous, bovey, jet, &c. +These have all their specific differences, and are employed for various +purposes; but are all, more or less, used as fuel. + + The use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the + Romans. In Britain it was discovered about fifty years before + the birth of Christ, in Lancashire, not tar from where + Manchester now stands; but for ages after its discovery, so long + as forests abounded, wood continued to be the fuel used for + firing. The first public notice of coal is in the reign of Henry + III., who, in 1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle, + permitting the inhabitants to dig for coal. It took some + centuries more, however, to bring it into common use, as this + did not take place till about the first quarter of the + seventeenth century, in the time of Charles I. A few years after + the Restoration, we find that about 200,000 chaldrons were + consumed in London. Although several countries possess mines of + coal, the quality of their mineral is, in general, greatly + inferior to that of Great Britain, where it is found mostly in + undulating districts abounding with valleys, and interspersed + with plains of considerable extent. It lies usually between the + _strata_ of other substances, and rarely in an horizontal + position, but with a _dip_ or inclination to one side. Our cut, + Fig. 21, represents a section of coal as it is found in the + stratum. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 21.] + +74. TO BE ACQUAINTED WITH THE PERIODS when things are in season, is one +of the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the "Art of +Cookery." We have, therefore, compiled the following list, which will +serve to show for every month in the year the + + +TIMES WHEN THINGS ARE IN SEASON. + + +JANUARY. + +FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, +haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, +plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, +thornback, turbot, whitings. + +MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison. + +POULTRY.--Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys. + +GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock. + +VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, +cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, +savoys, spinach, turnips,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, +crystallized preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds and +raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates. + + +FEBRUARY. + +FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod may be bought, but is not so good as in +January, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, +lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, +shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, +turbot, whiting. + +MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. + +POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets +with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season. + +GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock. + +VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, +cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, +kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, +turnips,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, +oranges, pears (Bon Chretien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as +almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, +crystallized preserves. + + +MARCH. + +FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, +haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, +plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, +thornback, turbot, whiting. + +MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. + +POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets +with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season. + +GAME.--Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock. + +VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, +cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, +kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach, +turnips,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, +oranges, pears (Bon Chretien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as +almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, +crystallized preserves. + + +APRIL. + +FISH.--Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, red +and gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but rather +scarce and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, +turbot, whitings. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, leverets, pigeons, pullets, +rabbits. + +GAME.--Hares. + +VEGETABLES.--Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips, +radishes, small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &e. for tarts, rhubarb, +dried fruits, crystallized preserves. + + +MAY. + +FISH.--Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, +red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets, +rabbits. + +VEGETABLES.--Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, +creases, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads, +sea-kale,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts, +gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries. + + +JUNE. + +FISH.--Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, +prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, +pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears. + +VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, +lettuces, onions, parsnips, pease, potatoes, radishes, small salads, +sea-kale, spinach,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, +peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries. + + +JULY. + +FISH.--Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, +mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, +sturgeon, tench, thornback. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, +pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called +flappers). + +VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, +cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, +pease, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable +marrow,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, +nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts +in high season, and pickled. + + +AUGUST. + +FISH.--Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs, +herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles, +sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, plovers, +pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks. + +GAME.--Leverets, grouse, blackcock. + +VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages, +cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, +pease, potatoes, radishes, sea-bale, small salading, sprouts, turnips, +various kitchen herbs, vegetable marrows. + +FRUIT.--Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, +mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, +walnuts. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +FISH.--Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, +plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait. + +MEAT.--Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, +rabbits, teal, turkeys. + +GAME.--Blackcock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants. + +VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots, +celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salading, +sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, +morella-cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, +quinces, walnuts. + + +OCTOBER. + +FISH.--Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, +lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot, +whiting. + +MEAT.--Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, +teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks. + +GAME.--Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, +woodcocks, doe venison. + +VEGETABLES.--Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, +lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, +vegetable marrows,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, +grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts. + + +NOVEMBER. + +FISH.--Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, +soles, tench, turbot, whiting. + +MEAT.--Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison. + +POULTRY.--Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, +teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild duck. + +GAME.--Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks. + +VEGETABLES.--Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, late +cucumbers, onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts,--various herbs. + +FRUIT.--Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts. + + +DECEMBER. + +FISH.--Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, +herrings, lobsters, oysters, porch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles, +tench, thornback, turbot, whiting. + +MEAT.--Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison. + +POULTRY.--Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, +teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks. + +GAME.--Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks. + +VEGETABLES.--Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, +potatoes, parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach. + +FRUIT.--Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, +walnuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates, +&c.,--crystallized preserves. + + +75. WHEN FUEL AND FOOD ARE PROCURED, the next consideration is, how the +latter may be best preserved, with a view to its being suitably dressed. +More waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment, or of necessary +care in this particular, than by any other cause. In the absence of +proper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in an +airy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry +and shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept for +some time; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate +for the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it is +advisable that annual food should be hung up in the open air till its +fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till +it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated, +and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many of its qualities +conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of +putrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree of +tenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summer +months, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or +tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and if +flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder well +washed. In very cold weather, meat and vegetables touched by the frost, +should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning, and soaked in +cold water. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should +be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumps +and edgebones of beef, when bruised, should not be purchased. All these +things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager, +and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or suffered +to be wasted in the kitchen, which might, by proper management, be +turned to a good account. The shank-bones of mutton, so little esteemed +in general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and +brushed before they are added to the boiling. They are also particularly +nourishing for sick persons. Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, +make excellent stock for pea-soup.--When the whites of eggs are used for +jelly, confectionary, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard should +be made, that the yolks may be used. All things likely to be wanted +should be in readiness: sugars of different sorts; currants washed, +picked, and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very small +bottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed +(72). Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to +be used in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented by +keeping every article in the place best suited to it. Vegetables keep +best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; meat, in a cold dry +place; as also salt, sugar, sweet-meats, candles, dried meats, and hams. +Rice, and all sorts of seed for puddings, should be closely covered to +preserve them from insects; but even this will not prevent them from +being affected by these destroyers, if they are long and carelessly +kept. + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY. + +76. AS IN THE FINE ARTS, the progress of mankind from barbarism to +civilization is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude +materialities of nature, so in the art of cookery is the progress +gradual from the earliest and simplest modes, to those of the most +complicated and refined. Plain or rudely-carved stones, tumuli, or +mounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the +events of their history, to be succeeded, only in the long course of a +series of ages, by beautifully-proportioned columns, gracefully-sculptured +statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and the higher efforts of the +pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to the +perfection of his facilities. So is it with the art of cookery. Man, +in his primitive state, lives upon roots and the fruits of the earth, +until, by degrees, he is driven to seek for new means, by which his +wants may be supplied and enlarged. He then becomes a hunter and a +fisher. As his species increases, greater necessities come upon him, +when he gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the more +stationary pursuits of the herdsman. These beget still more settled +habits, when he begins the practice of agriculture, forms ideas of the +rights of property, and has his own, both defined and secured. The +forest, the stream, and the sea are now no longer his only resources for +food. He sows and he reaps, pastures and breeds cattle, lives on the +cultivated produce of his fields, and revels in the luxuries of the +dairy; raises flocks for clothing, and assumes, to all intents and +purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of +a farmer. This is the fourth stage of social progress, up to which the +useful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves, +when trade and commerce begin. Through these various phases, _only to +live_ has been the great object of mankind; but, by-and-by, comforts are +multiplied, and accumulating riches create new wants. The object, then, +is not only to _live_, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully, +and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery commences; and although the +fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, and +the fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these are +so prepared, improved, and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they are +the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyments. +Everything that is edible, and passes under the hands of the cook, is +more or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the influence of that +functionary is immense upon the happiness of a household. + +77. In order that the duties of the Cook may be properly performed, and +that he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty, all +terms of indecision should be banished from his art. Accordingly, what +is known only to him, will, in these pages, be made known to others. In +them all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some of +that, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never be +made use of, but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. With +a desire, also, that all ignorance on this most essential part of the +culinary art should disappear, and that a uniform system of weights and +measures should be adopted, we give an account of the weights which +answer to certain measures. + +A TABLE-SPOONFUL is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in the +prescriptions of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, and +gastronomical works. By it is generally meant and understood a measure +or bulk equal to that which would be produced by _half an ounce_ of +water. + +A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is the half of a table-spoonful; that is to say, by +it is meant a measure or bulk equal to a _quarter of an ounce_ of water. + +A TEA-SPOONFUL is equal in quantity to a _drachm_ of water. + +A DROP.--This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so called +on account of the liquid being _dropped_ from the mouth of a bottle. Its +quantity, however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquid +or the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College of +Physicians determined the quantity of a drop to be _one grain_, 60 drops +making one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm, +is called a _minim_. + +[Illustration: _Fig_. 22.] + + Graduated class measures can be obtained at any chemist's, and + they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is + divided into 16 oz., and the oz, into 8 drachms of water; by + which, any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be + accurately measured out. Home-made measures of this kind can + readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given + measure, and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies. + This mark can easily be made with a file. It will be interesting + to many readers to know the basis on which the French found + their system of weights and measures, for it certainly possesses + the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the basis of the + whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact + measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the + earth. + +78. EXCELLENCE IN THE ART OF COOKERY, as in all other things, is only +attainable by practice and experience. In proportion, therefore, to the +opportunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence +in the art. It is in the large establishments of princes, noblemen, and +very affluent families alone, that the man cook is found in this +country. He, also, superintends the kitchens of large hotels, clubs, and +public institutions, where he, usually, makes out the bills of fare, +which are generally submitted to the principal for approval. To be able +to do this, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that he should be a +judge of the season of every dish, as well as know perfectly the state +of every article he undertakes to prepare. He must also be a judge of +every article he buys; for no skill, however great it may be, will +enable him to, make that good which is really bad. On him rests the +responsibility of the cooking generally, whilst a speciality of his +department, is to prepare the rich soups, stews, ragouts, and such +dishes as enter into the more refined and complicated portions of his +art, and such as are not usually understood by ordinary professors. He, +therefore, holds a high position in a household, being inferior in rank, +as already shown (21), only to the house steward, the valet, and the +butler. + + In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity, Sicilian cooks were + the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. + Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, + that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of + the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the + palmy days of Roman voluptuousness had about L800 a year, and + Antony rewarded the one that cooked the supper which pleased + Cleopatra, with the present of a city. With the fall of the + empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the + middle ages, cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their + sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the + sake of novelty, as well as singularity. + +79. THE DUTIES OF THE COOK, THE KITCHEN AND THE SCULLERY MAIDS, are so +intimately associated, that they can hardly be treated of separately. +The cook, however, is at the head of the kitchen; and in proportion to +her possession of the qualities of cleanliness, neatness, order, +regularity, and celerity of action, so will her influence appear in the +conduct of those who are under her; as it is upon her that the whole +responsibility of the business of the kitchen rests, whilst the others +must lend her, both a ready and a willing assistance, and be especially +tidy in their appearance, and active, in their movements. + + In the larger establishments of the middle ages, cooks, with the + authority of feudal chiefs, gave their orders from a high chair + in which they ensconced themselves, and commanded a view of all + that was going on throughout their several domains. Each held a + long wooden spoon, with which he tasted, without leaving his + seat, the various comestibles that were cooking on the stoves, + and which he frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs + of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated + over their diligence and temperance. + +80. IF, AS WE HAVE SAID (3), THE QUALITY OF EARLY RISING be of the first +importance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant! Let it, +therefore, be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in every +domestic, the effect of all things else, so far as _work_ is concerned, +may, in a great measure, be neutralized. In a cook, this quality is most +essential; for an hour lost in the morning, will keep her toiling, +absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that which might otherwise have +been achieved with ease. In large establishments, six is a good hour to +rise in the summer, and seven in the winter. + +81. HER FIRST DUTY, in large establishments and where it is requisite, +should be to set her dough for the breakfast rolls, provided this has +not been done on the previous night, and then to engage herself with +those numerous little preliminary occupations which may not +inappropriately be termed laying out her duties for the day. This will +bring in the breakfast hour of eight, after which, directions must be +given, and preparations made, for the different dinners of the household +and family. + +82. IN THOSE NUMEROUS HOUSEHOLDS where a cook and housemaid are only +kept, the general custom is, that the cook should have the charge of the +dining-room. The hall, the lamps and the doorstep are also committed to +her care, and any other work there may be on the outside of the house. +In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her +kitchen fire, carefully brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth, +proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, +and, filling it with fresh water, will put it on the fire to boil. She +will then go to the breakfast-room, or parlour, and there make all +things ready for the breakfast of the family. Her attention will next be +directed to the hall, which she will sweep and wipe; the kitchen stairs, +if there be any, will now be swept; and the hall mats, which have been +removed and shaken, will be again put in their places. + + The cleaning of the kitchen, pantry, passages, and kitchen + stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not + interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should + be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect + when the heads of the house and members of the family make their + appearance. Nothing, it may be depended on, will so please the + mistress of an establishment, as to notice that, although she + has not been present to see that the work was done, attention to + smaller matters has been carefully paid, with a view to giving + her satisfaction and increasing her comfort. + +83. BY THE TIME THAT THE COOK has performed the duties mentioned above, +and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast-bell will +most likely summon her to the parlour, to "bring in" the breakfast. It +is the cook's department, generally, in the smaller establishments, to +wait at breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone up-stairs +into the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. +The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the +early part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more +special business to speak, call at these hours. + +84. IT IS IN HER PREPARATION OF THE DINNER that the cook begins to feel +the weight and responsibility of her situation, as she must take upon +herself all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes, which +her skill and ingenuity have mostly prepared. Whilst these, however, are +cooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, ragouts, &c. +Stock, or what the French call _consomme_, being the basis of most made +dishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with her sweet herbs and +spices for seasoning. "A place for everything, and everything in its +place," must be her rule, in order that time may not be wasted in +looking for things when they are wanted, and in order that the whole +apparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a +well-adjusted machine;--all must go on simultaneously. The vegetables +and sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and in +order that they may be suitable, the smallest oversight must not be made +in their preparation. When the dinner-hour has arrived, it is the duty +of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without injury, stand, for +some time, covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but such as +are of a more important or _recherche_ kind, must be delayed until the +order "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes haste; but +there must be no hurry,--all must work with order. The cook takes charge +of the fish, soups, and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, +sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes, +whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything must +be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should be +taken, that, between the first and second courses, no more time is +allowed to elapse than is necessary, for fear that the company in the +dining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. When +the dinner has been served, the most important feature in the daily life +of the cook is at an end. She must, however, now begin to look to the +contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, +so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies, milk, or meat +that may be there. These are the principal duties of a cook in a +first-rate establishment. + +In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higher +department of cooking (_see_ 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with the +assistance of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate duties +of the kitchen-maid. + +When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform the +whole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the +house-work also. + +85. WHILST THE COOK IS ENGAGED WITH HER MORNING DUTIES, the kitchen-maid +is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, +is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging to +it. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at the +entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs which +lead to the kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash and +scour all these places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, and +cupboards. She has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners, +to prepare all fish, poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and +cutlets, and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into the +cook's department in a subordinate degree. + +86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to assist the cook; to keep the +scullery clean, and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchen +utensils. + + The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high + rank, nor is the payment for her services large. But if she be + fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever + cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties + connected with cooking operations, which may be of considerable + service in fitting her for a more responsible place. Now, it + will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers, that + the fascinations connected with the position of the + scullery-maid, are not so great as to induce many people to + leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery. But we + are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the + part of a young girl, was so strong to become connected with the + kitchen and cookery, that she absolutely left her parents, and + engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house. Here + she showed herself so active and intelligent, that she very + quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid; and from this, so + great was her gastronomical genius, she became, in a short space + of time, one of the best women-cooks in England. After this, we + think, it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, _nascitur, + non fit_. + +87. MODERN COOKERY stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic +propensities of our French neighbours, that many of their terms are +adopted and applied by English artists to the same as well as similar +preparations of their own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore, +indispensable in a work of this kind. Accordingly, the following will be +found sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes:-- + + +EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. + +ASPIC.--A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, +poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the bird +which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for +decorating or garnishing. + +ASSIETTE (plate).--_Assiettes_ are the small _entrees_ and +_hors-d'oeuvres_, the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate +will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if +served upon a plate, are termed _assiettes_.--ASSIETTE VOLANTE is a +dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed upon +the table. Small cheese souffles and different dishes, which ought to be +served very hot, are frequently made _assielles volantes_. + +AU-BLEU.--Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a _bluish_ +appearance. + +BAIN-MARIE.--An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in +which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very +useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or +quality. If you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup +reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as +reduces; but this is prevented by using the _bain-marie_, in which the +water should be very hot, but not boiling. + +BECHAMEL.--French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery. + +BLANCH.--To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c., by plunging them +into boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them into +cold water, there to remain until they are cold. + +BLANQUETTE.--A sort of fricassee. + +BOUILLI.--Beef or other meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiled +beef is understood by the term. + +BOUILLIE.--A French dish resembling hasty-pudding. + +BOUILLON.--A thin broth or soup. + +BRAISE.--To stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender, it having +previously been blanched. + +BRAISIERE.--A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top. + +BRIDER.--To pass a packthread through poultry, game, &c., to keep +together their members. + +CARAMEL (burnt sugar).--This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size +of a nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; upon which a cupful of +stock is gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth, +little by little. It may be used with the feather of a quill, to colour +meats, such as the upper part of fricandeaux; and to impart colour to +sauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour +_compotes_ and other _entremets_. + +CASSEROLE.--A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into the +form of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meat +or a puree of game. + +COMPOTE.--A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. + +CONSOMME.--Rich stock, or gravy. + +CROQUETTE.--Ball of fried rice or potatoes. + +CROUTONS.--Sippets of bread. + +DAUBIERE.--An oval stewpan, in which _daubes_ are cooked; _daubes_ being +meat or fowl stewed in sauce. + +DESOSSER.--To _bone_, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish. +This is an operation requiring considerable experience. + +ENTREES.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course. + +ENTREMETS.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course. + +ESCALOPES.--Collops; small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of +fish, beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender. + +FEUILLETAGE.--Puff-paste. + +FLAMBER.--To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked. + +FONCER.--To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin +broad slices of bacon. + +GALETTE.--A broad thin cake. + +GATEAU.--A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote a +pudding and a kind of tart. + +GLACER.--To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and +rich sauce or gravy, called _glaze_. This is laid on with a feather or +brush, and in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry with +sugar, which glistens on hardening. + +HORS-D'OEUVRES.--Small dishes, or _assiettes volantes_ of sardines, +anchovies, and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests during +the first course. (_See_ ASSIETTES VOLANTES.) + +LIT.--A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers, +other articles, or seasoning, being laid between them. + +MAIGRE.--Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat. + +MATELOTE.--A rich fish-stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels, +trout, or barbel. It is made with wine. + +MAYONNAISE.--Cold sauce, or salad dressing. + +MENU.--The bill of fare. + +MERINGUE.--A kind of icing, made of whites of eggs and sugar, well +beaten. + +MIROTON.--Larger slices of meat than collops; such as slices of beef for +a vinaigrette, or ragout or stew of onions. + +MOUILLER.--To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the cooking. + +PANER.--To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meats, or any +other articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying-pan. + +PIQUER.--To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. This +should always be done according to the vein of the meat, so that in +carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat. + +POELEE.--Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads, +fowls, and vegetables, to render them less insipid. This is rather an +expensive preparation. + +PUREE.--Vegetables, or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, which is +afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of +very thick soup. + +RAGOUT.--Stew or hash. + +REMOULADE.--Salad dressing. + +RISSOLES.--Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into various forms, +and fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or sweets. + +ROUX.--Brown and white; French thickening. + +SALMI.--Ragout of game previously roasted. + +SAUCE PIQUANTE.--A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar flavour +predominates. + +SAUTER.--To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about. + +TAMIS.--Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain +broth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, &c. + +TOURTE.--Tart. Fruit pie. + +TROUSSER.--To truss a bird; to put together the body and tie the wings +and thighs, in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being +tied then with packthread, to keep it in the required form. + +VOL-AU-VENT.--A rich crust of very fine puff-paste, which may be filled +with various delicate ragouts or fricassees, of fish, flesh, or fowl. +Fruit may also be inclosed in a _vol-au-vent_. + + + + +[Illustration] + +SOUPS. + + +CHAPTER V. + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS. + +88. LEAN, JUICY BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL, form the basis of all good +soups; therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford +the richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders +them bad, and fat is not so well adapted for making them. The principal +art in composing good rich soup, is so to proportion the several +ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another, +and that all the articles of which it is composed, shall form an +agreeable whole. To accomplish this, care must be taken that the roots +and herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportioned +to the quantity of meat and other ingredients. Generally a quart of +water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantity +for gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is +incomparably the best. It may be remarked, however, that a really good +soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, +greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air. +Soups will, in general, take from three to six hours doing, and are much +better prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold, +the fat may be much more easily and completely removed; and when it is +poured off, care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the +bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a +sieve. A tamis is the best strainer, and if the soup is strained while +it is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water. +Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about the +consistence of cream. To thicken and give body to soups and gravies, +potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour and +butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed well +together, are used. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a bit +of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually +incorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When +the soup appears to be _too thin_ or _too weak_, the cover of the boiler +should be taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of the +watery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening materials, above +mentioned, should be added. When soups and gravies are kept from day to +day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into +fresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate +weather, every other day may be sufficient. + +89. VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are required for the purpose of making +soups and gravies. Of these the principal are,--Scotch barley, pearl +barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice, +vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom +ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, +shalots, and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till +they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to +heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the +basis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The older and +drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or +burnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, though +equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh +vegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should be +corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, common +thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter +savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, and +its fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving the extract is +by pouring wine on the fresh leaves. + +90. FOR THE SEASONING OF SOUPS, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil, +burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white +pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Seville +orange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the +lemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, mushroom +ketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various proportions, +are, with other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless variety +of excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitute +the principal part of a meal, certainly ought not to be flavoured like +sauces, which are only designed to give a relish to some particular +dish. + + +SOUP, BROTH AND BOUILLON. + +91. IT HAS BEEN ASSERTED, that English cookery is, nationally speaking, +far from being the best in the world. More than this, we have been +frequently told by brilliant foreign writers, half philosophers, half +_chefs_, that we are the _worst_ cooks on the face of the earth, and +that the proverb which alludes to the divine origin of food, and the +precisely opposite origin of its preparers, is peculiarly applicable to +us islanders. Not, however, to the inhabitants of the whole island; for, +it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations, north of the +Tweed, that the "broth" of Scotland claims, for excellence and +wholesomeness, a very close second place to the _bouillon_, or common +soup of France. "_Three_ hot meals of broth and meat, for about the +price of ONE roasting joint," our Scottish brothers and sisters get, +they say; and we hasten to assent to what we think is now a very +well-ascertained fact. We are glad to note, however, that soups of +vegetables, fish, meat, and game, are now very frequently found in the +homes of the English middle classes, as well as in the mansions of the +wealthier and more aristocratic; and we take this to be one evidence, +that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system of +cookery. One great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cooked +meats which are brought to our tables, arises, we think, and most will +agree with us, from a non-acquaintance with "common, every-day things." +Entertaining this view, we intend to preface the chapters of this work +with a simple scientific _resume_ of all those causes and circumstances +which relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and +chemistry of the various culinary operations. Accordingly, this is the +proper place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and +describe some of the circumstances which influence it for good or bad. +We will, therefore, commence with the circumstance of _age_, and examine +how far this affects the quality of meat. + +92. DURING THE PERIOD BETWEEN THE BIRTH AND MATURITY OF ANIMALS, their +flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animal +is young, the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain, possess a +large proportion of what is called _albumen_. This albumen, which is +also the chief component of the white of eggs, possesses the peculiarity +of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature, like the white of +a boiled egg, into a soft, white fluid, no longer soluble, or capable of +being dissolved in water. As animals grow older, this peculiar animal +matter gradually decreases, in proportion to the other constituents of +the juice of the flesh. Thus, the reason why veal, lamb, and young pork +are _white, and without gravy_ when cooked, is, that the large quantity +of albumen they contain hardens, or becomes coagulated. On the other +hand, the reason why beef and mutton are _brown, and have gravy_, is, +that the proportion of albumen they contain, is small, in comparison +with their greater quantity of fluid which is soluble, and not +coagulable. + +93. THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH OF AN ANIMAL is considerably influenced by +the nature of the _food on which it has been fed_; for the food supplies +the material which produces the flesh. If the food be not suitable and +good, the meat cannot be good either; just as the paper on which these +words are printed, could not be good, if the rags from which it is made, +were not of a fine quality. To the experienced in this matter, it is +well known that the flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, such as +corn, pulse, &c., is firm, well-flavoured, and also economical in the +cooking; that the flesh of those fed on succulent and pulpy substances, +such as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree; +whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is +greasy, high coloured, and gross in the fat, and if the food has been +used in large quantities, possessed of a rank flavour. + +94. IT IS INDISPENSABLE TO THE GOOD QUALITY OF MEAT, that the animal +should be _perfectly healthy_ at the time of its slaughter. However +slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of +its flesh, as food, is certain to be produced. In most cases, indeed, as +the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction, +it becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous, on account of +the absorption of the _virus_ of the unsound meat into the systems of +those who partake of it. The external indications of good and bad meat +will be described under its own particular head, but we may here premise +that the layer of all wholesome meat, when freshly killed, adheres +firmly to the bone. + +95. ANOTHER CIRCUMSTANCE GREATLY AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF MEAT, is the +animal's treatment _before it is slaughtered_. This influences its value +and wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree. It will be easy to +understand this, when we reflect on those leading principles by which +the life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are, the +digestion of its food, and the assimilation of that food into its +substance. Nature, in effecting this process, first reduces the food in +the stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes +into the intestines, and is there divided into two principles, each +distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid,--the nutritive +portion,--is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous +membrane, or inner coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, +discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is +conveyed to the large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart. Here it +is mixed with the venous blood (which is black and impure) returning +from every part of the body, and then it supplies the waste which is +occasioned in the circulating stream by the arterial (or pure) blood +having furnished matter for the substance of the animal. The blood of +the animal having completed its course through all parts, and having had +its waste recruited by the digested food, is now received into the +heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs, +there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. +Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and +thence distributed, by innumerable ramifications, called capillaries, +bestowing to every part of the animal, life and nutriment. The other +principle--the innutritive portion--passes from the intestines, and is +thus got rid of. It will now be readily understood how flesh is affected +for bad, if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood +has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage, or other causes of +excitement, to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for the +capillaries to perform their functions, and causing the blood to be +congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat +will be dark-coloured, and become rapidly putrid; so that self-interest +and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals +destined to serve as food for man. + + +THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING. + +96. STOCK BEING THE BASIS of all meat soups, and, also, of all the +principal sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinary +operations, to know the most complete and economical method of +extracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the best possible stock or +broth. The theory and philosophy of this process we will, therefore, +explain, and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted. + +97. AS ALL MEAT is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, +osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the FIBRES are +inseparable, constituting almost all that remains of the meat after it +has undergone a long boiling. + +98. FAT is dissolved by boiling; but as it is contained in cells covered +by a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it always +adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of the +stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not +whole, or which have burst by boiling. + +99. GELATINE is soluble: it is the basis and the nutritious portion of +the stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when +cold, to become a jelly. + +100. OSMAZOME is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meat +which gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals +contains more _osmazome_ than that of young ones. Brown meats contain +more than white, and the former make the stock more fragrant. By +roasting meat, the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so, by +putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain a +better flavour. + +101. ALBUMEN is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved +in cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not +quite at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evident +that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or +after this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases, +hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains +in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from +dissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It +ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, +always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as +the parts farthest from the surface always acquire _that degree_ of heat +which congeals it before entirely dissolving it. + +102. BONES ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. They +are composed of an earthy substance,--to which they owe their +solidity,--of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. _Two +ounces_ of them contain as much gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but in +them, this is so incased in the earthy substance, that boiling water can +dissolve only the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, however, you +can dissolve more, because you multiply their surfaces; and by reducing +them to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; but you must +not grind them dry. We have said (99) that gelatine forms the basis of +stock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste; and +to make the stock savoury, it must contain _osmazome_. Of this, bones do +not contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made entirely +of them, is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken or pulverized +bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficiently +savoury. + +103. In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed +hints and directions should be attended to in the economy of +soup-making:-- + +I. BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less colour and taste; +whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable, +unless the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add very +little to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, +when they are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridge +is also a great improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock is +obtained. + +II. IF THE MEAT BE BOILED solely to make stock, it must be cut up into +the smallest possible pieces; but, generally speaking, if it is desired +to have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessary +to put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for two +or three days, during which time the stock will keep well in all +weathers. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as +possible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and +will be very soon spoiled by the boiling. + +III. NEVER WASH MEAT, as it deprives its surface of all its juices; +separate it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its +shape may be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each +pound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with the +hand, to allow the air, which it contains, to escape, and which often +raises it to the top of the water. + +IV. PUT THE STOCK-POT ON A GENTLE FIRE, so that it may heat gradually. +The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is in +this state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface; +bringing with it all its impurities. It is this which makes _the scum_. +The rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifying +stock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the more +scum there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always take care that the +fire is very regular. + +V. REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil, +because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved, and the other go +to the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain a +clear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to add +cold water in order to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too large +at first, it will then be necessary to do so. + +VI. WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED, and begins to boil, put in salt and +vegetables, which may be two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, +a bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can add, according to +taste, a piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a +tomato. The latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock. If fried +onion be added, it ought, according to the advice of a famous French +_chef_, to be tied in a little bag: without this precaution, the colour +of the stock is liable to be clouded. + +VII. BY THIS TIME we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones +which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the +roast meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, that +the more these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best way +to break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding, +from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. It is +a great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat, which, in too many +English families, we fear, are entirely wasted; for it is certain, as +previously stated (No. 102), that two ounces of bone contain as much +gelatine (which is the nutritive portion of stock) as one pound of meat. +In their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the +stock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which +can be used for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you have +received from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly +over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be very +careful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or +burnt. + +VIII. ADD NOW THE VEGETABLES, which, to a certain extent, will stop the +boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again, +then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering till +it is served, preserving, as before said, your fire always the same. +Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent evaporation; do not fill it up, +even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; in +which case a little boiling water may be added, but only enough to cover +it. After six hours' slow and gentle simmering, the stock is done; and +it should not be continued on the fire, longer than is necessary, or it +will tend to insipidity. + +_Note_.--It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, that +excellence in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of the +culinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons, and the +stock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be obtained. The +stock will never be clear; and when it is obliged to be clarified, it is +deteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the proper management of +the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved, inasmuch as one +stock, in a small dinner, serves for all purposes. Above all things, the +greatest economy, consistent with excellence, should be practised, and +the price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly ascertained. +The _theory_ of this part of Household Management may appear trifling; +but its practice is extensive, and therefore it requires the best +attention. + +[Illustration] + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS. + +[_It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that an +entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in +explaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the young +housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of +"getting ready" the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the order +in which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their +table all the INGREDIENTS necessary; then the modus operandi, or MODE of +preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of the +recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a +repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained +of the TIME the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods at +which it is SEASONABLE, as also of its_ AVERAGE COST. + +_The addition of the natural history, and the description of the various +properties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will be +serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view._ + +_Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that by +the employment of the_ BEST, MEDIUM, _or_ COMMON STOCK, _the quality of +the Soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened._] + + +STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS. + +RICH STRONG STOCK. + +104. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, +3/4 lb. of good lean ham; any poultry trimmings; 3 small onions, 3 small +carrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they +ferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 +tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley; 1-1/2 oz. of +salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts +of water. + +_Mode_.--Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broad +slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; cut up the beef and +veal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham; set it on +the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is +equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, +and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasionally add a little +cold water, to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear; then put +in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do not +let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its +colour may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or +tammy, and it will be fit for use. + +_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + + +MEDIUM STOCK. + +105. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, +or 2 lbs. of each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 a +lb. of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each stuck +with 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. +of salt, 1/2 a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1 +small bunch of savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches +square; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in 1/2 a pint +of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, +and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When +the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, +add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As we +have said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle of +grease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve. + +This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and will be +found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. + +_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart. + + +ECONOMICAL STOCK. + +106. INGREDIENTS.--The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled, +say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-bones, &c., +roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; vegetables, spices, +and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe. + +_Mode_.--Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking care +to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use. + +_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart. + + +WHITE STOCK. + +(_To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups_.) + +107. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4 +slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 white +peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. butter, 4 quarts of +water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of +poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the +butter. Moisten with 1/2 a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy +begins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of the +ingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining it +carefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready for use. + +_Time_.--5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per quart. + +_Note_.--When stronger stock is desired, double the quantity of veal, or +put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled, +is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups. + + +BROWNING FOR STOCK. + +108. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of powdered sugar, and 1/2 a pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins +to melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black, +then add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a few +drops when required. + +_Note_.--In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of +browning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to be +discouraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the +stock, and, consequently, all soups made from it. + + +TO CLARIFY STOCK. + +109. INGREDIENTS.--The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts of +stock. + +_Mode_.--Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear, +and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully +separated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water, and +add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place the +soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the eggs with +it till nearly boiling again; then draw it from the fire, and let it +settle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass through a +fine cloth, and the soup should be clear. + +_Note_.--The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light straw +colour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat; and that all +white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will +enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All _purees_ +should be somewhat thicker. + + +ALMOND SOUP. + +110. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a scrag of mutton, 1 +oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, +the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than 2 quarts of +water. + +_Mode_.--Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that +will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very +tender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with the +specified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let +it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds, +blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard; +mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the +latter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep +adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly +mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly +smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently, +and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 2s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM.] + + THE ALMOND-TREE.--This tree is indigenous to the northern parts + of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe, + especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers + in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are + two kinds of almonds, the _sweet_ and the _bitter,_ they are + considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet + almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and + come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from + Valentia and Italy. _Bitter_ almonds come principally from + Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations + of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he + designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian + nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of + them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they + might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very + indigestible. The _bitter_ contain, too, principles which + produce two violent poisons,--prussic acid and a kind of + volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large + quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and + water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded + by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their + cake as a cosmetic. + +APPLE SOUP. + +111. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful of +white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium +stock. + +_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put them +into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through a +strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ from September to December. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.] + + THE APPLE.--This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and + Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from + the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation. + Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished + certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were + called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the + Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country + whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and + the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by + grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The + crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to + Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are, + no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon + heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as _the + apple country_; and there are still existing in Herefordshire + some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the + Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this + precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to + number upwards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone, + being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best + baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for + autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter + and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are + the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer + pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the + Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small + russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high, + as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of + its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a + useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is + esteemed as slightly laxative. + +ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP. + +(_A White Soup_.) + +112. INGREDIENTS.--3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery, +1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of +boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 +lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock. + +_Mode_.--Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin +slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of an +hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after +cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the +other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, +put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning, +and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer. +Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes, +taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream. +Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 2d. + +_Seasonable_ from June to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +ASPARAGUS SOUP. + +I. + +113. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of +pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, a +little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small, +the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a +stewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on a +slow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in the +water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew +gently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and +add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and +sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put in +the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender. +Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish. + +_Time_.--Altogether 3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from May to August. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +II. + +114. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4 +young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of +asparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour the +soup with spinach juice. + +_Mode_.--Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, and +then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, with +the water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream, +and serve. + +_Time_.--Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours. +_Average cost_ per quart, 1s. + +[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.] + + ASPARAGUS.--The ancients called all the sprouts of young + vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a + particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus, + cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild + seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be + found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It + is often vulgarly called, in London, _sparrowgrass_; and, in + it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the + original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the + London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather + to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and + easily digested, but is not very nutritious. + +BAKED SOUP. + +115. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd +pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper +and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice and +peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up with +the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons. + +_Note_.--This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be +convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than +boiling. + + +BARLEY SOUP. + +116. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a +large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts +of water. + +_Mode_.--Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter. + +[Illustration: BARLEY.] + + BARLEY.--This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain, + the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several + species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is + not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of + antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it + in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with + the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the + Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them, + as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the + Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts + of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less + nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten + 6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and + less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of + it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak. + +BREAD SOUP. + +(_Economical_.) + +117. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of +common stock. + +_Mode_.--Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat the +whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are +well mixed. Season with a little salt. + +_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Note_.--This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extreme +economy is an object. + +[Illustration: QUERN, or GRINDING-MILL.] + + BREAD.--The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of + distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but + before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in + use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and + the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion + of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and + covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us + that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not + known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said + that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king + of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city" + about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no + doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from + the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King + Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's + cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented + cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known + to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this + day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of + _polenta_, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in + the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is + still used. We give a cut of the _quern_ grinding-mill, which, + towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country, + and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to + the Hebrides:"--"It consists of two stones about a foot and half + in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the + concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the + upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle. + The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one + hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides + down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the + upper, is ground in its passage." Such a primitive piece of + machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from + this country.--In other parts of this work, we shall have + opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from + its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has + emphatically been called the "staff of life." The necessity, + therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first + importance. + +CABBAGE SOUP. + +118. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices +of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No. +105. + +_Mode_.--Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpan +with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with +skimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage is +tender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim +off every particle of fat. Season and serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING.] + + THE CABBAGE.--It is remarkable, that although there is no + country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits + and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of + these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII. + Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English + cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two + centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII. + neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any + other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of + the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders." The original + of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant _sea-colewort_, which + is to be found _wasting_ whatever sweetness it may have on the + desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England. + In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet, + in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to + grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among + the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher + estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and + the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues + to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and + declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to + live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600 + years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and, + no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been + suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole + tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a + valuable adjunct to animal food. + +SOUP A LA CANTATRICE. + +(_An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice_.) + +119. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 +eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2 +quarts of medium stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gradually +added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when it +should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them the +boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Do +not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle. + +_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and +eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat. +In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have been +partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the +celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always +avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing. + + +CARROT SOUP. + +I. + +120. INGREDIENTS.--4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef +has been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1 +turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into a +stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strain +the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair +sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should be +of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of +the carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1-1/2d. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +II. + +121. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to +taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup. + +_Mode_.--Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipe +them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butter +into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced +carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add to +them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender,--say for nearly an +hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and +cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, and +serve as hot as possible. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 1d. + +[Illustration: TAZZA AND CARROT LEAVES.] + + THE CARROT.--There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but + it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot + in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, + and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore + leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the + culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used + also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a + large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable + as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large + red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a + garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is + usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is + excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its + fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of + starch.--The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter + ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the + carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves + spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness. + +CELERY SOUP. + +122. INGREDIENTS.--9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg to +taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2 +quarts of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water, +seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently +tender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half +an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serve +immediately. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting the +cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half a +drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, if +put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essence +of celery will answer the same purpose. + + CELERY.--This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild + state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the + seacoast. In this state it is called _smallaqe_, and, to some + extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has + been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant + possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an + enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the + accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how + infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the + products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless + variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by + the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very + comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is + nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in + order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost + wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being + suffered to appear above the ground. + +CHANTILLY SOUP. + +123. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of +parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions; +then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it +boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very +hot. + +_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average_ cost, 1s. 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to +them, make a very good soup in haste. + + Parsley.--Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of + parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and + the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the + emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is + extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to + Britain is not known. There are several varieties,--the + _plain_-leaved and the _curled_-leaved, _celery_-parsley, + _Hamburg_ parsley, and _purslane_. The curled is the best, and, + from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish + as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups; + and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to + parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery, + and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used + as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a + native of South America, and is not now much in use. + +CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP. + +124. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream; +seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into a +large pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers +to remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse +them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with good +stock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, or +until they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rub +them through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne, +and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. The +stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when +its sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it; +and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. of chestnuts should be given to each quart +of soup. + +_Time_.--rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from October to February. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +[Illustration: CHESTNUT.] + + THE CHESTNUT.--This fruit is said, by some, to have originally + come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city + of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it + was much used as a food, and is still common in France and + Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous. + In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both + raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the + Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the + island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It + attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it + is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and, + therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the _horse + chestnut_ is very different, although its fruit very much + resembles that of the other. Its "nuts," though eaten by horses + and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food. + +COCOA-NUT SOUP. + +125. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 a +teaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of a +pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down small +on a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz. +of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which should +then be strained closely from it, and thickened for table. + +_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ in Autumn. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +[Illustration: COCOA-NUT PALM.] + +[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM.] + + THE COCOA-NUT.--This is the fruit of one of the palms, than + which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree + marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in + making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the + Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has + been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the + natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for + creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them; + and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows, + or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into + lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun, + baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on. + Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made + of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions + stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons, + and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by + its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are + prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of + intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply + an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking + resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped, + the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and + its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the + nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general, + comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is + one of the least productive of the palm tribe. + +SOUP A LA CRECY. + +126. INGREDIENTS.--4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and +chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, +half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let them +simmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew +gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock, +let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well +soaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the +soup over this, and serve. + +_Time_.--1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_,1s. 2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: THE LENTIL.] + + THE LENTIL.--This belongs to the legumious or _pulse_ kind of + vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their + nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe, + but in England is not used as human food, although considered + the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is + cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the + table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi, + as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched + pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among + the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise + man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils." + Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the + English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account, + it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name + from _lentus_ 'slow,' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness + and moderation of temper. + +CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe). + +127. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a +walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepper +to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock +No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut it +in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the +water from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter. +When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock on +them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes. +Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at the +moment of serving. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from June to September. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + THE CUCUMBER.--The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the + sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it, + whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the + cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of + the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations + generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly + esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by + the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England, + although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses," it seems no + longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of + difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat, + however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable. + +EGG SOUP. + +128. INGREDIENTS.--A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades of +finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, and +put in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time. +Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in the +tureen, or fried sippets of bread. + +_Time_. 1/2 an hour. _Average cost_,11d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish). + +I. + +129. INGREDIENTS.--1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green +onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint of +asparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 +eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of +stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour +with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and +simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with +the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the +soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well. +Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will +curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar. + +_Time_.--24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from May to August. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + CHERVIL.--Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its + leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made + a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is + a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated + in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves. + +II. + +130. INGREDIENTS.--5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized +potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts +of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the +butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up +the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done, +which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the +cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to May. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup can be made with water instead of stock. + + +SOUP A LA JULIENNE. + +[Illustration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.] + +131. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of +onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and +chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be +particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the +others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into +larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling +to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and +stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup +over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and +serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be +added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in +butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the +stock. + + SORREL.--This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take + their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is + little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in + which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English + meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it + is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved. + +KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe). + +132. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted +oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil +floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put +the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a +teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but +form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +LEEK SOUP. + +I. + +133. INGREDIENTS.--A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut +small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken. + +_Mode_.--Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very +nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling +water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. +Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup +tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole +is blended and well done, and serve. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +II. + +COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE. + +134. INGREDIENTS.--A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, from +which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as +for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, +pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water +for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut +them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with, +at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half +an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours +longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In +serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a +tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of +leeks (a _puree_ of leeks the French would call it). + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No. +106, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called +leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largely +consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, +Sydenham, in 1859. + +[Illustration: LEEKS.] + + THE LEEK.--As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was + bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert. + It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion, + garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food, + are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than + any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of + the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction + to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek + on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in + "BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably + originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid, + practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all + the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when + they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such + time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks + with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.) + Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of + Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper + than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to + that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to + prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled. + +MACARONI SOUP. + +135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a +walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch +of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it +into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew +gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: MACARONI.] + + MACARONI.--This is the favourite food of Italy, where, + especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the + staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a + double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The + crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down, + and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are + stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers' + stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_." This + article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the + best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has + been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel, + pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom. + Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw + bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the + cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked + by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time, + drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to + dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome + and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in + England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to + the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups + and making puddings. + +SOUP MAIGRE (i.e. without Meat). + +136. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2 +lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of +bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 +eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew +gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and +parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put in +the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and, +at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar, +but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: LETTUCE.] + + THE LETTUCE.--This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which + comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and + other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been + distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without + preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the + Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian, + had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at + their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical + name is _Lactuca_, so called from the milky juice it exudes when + its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by + ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is + deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is + that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but + serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food. + +MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children). + +137. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 +teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or +more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread +in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over +a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the +milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle. +Pour it upon the bread, and serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 children. + + +ONION SOUP. + +138. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to +taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them +occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to +them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + +CHEAP ONION SOUP. + +139. INGREDIENTS.--8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a +tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of +powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter, +and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the +onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with +butter and flour, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_,4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: ONION.] + + THE ONION.--Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an + object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before + the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the + country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa. + When it was first introduced to England, has not been + ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a + favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates + it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain + and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are + often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is + the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly + nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to + the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are + liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this + odour. + +PAN KAIL. + +140. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter +or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quarts +of water. + +_Mode_.--Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, put +in the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2 +hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, adding +any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then further +thicken with bread or pounded biscuit. + +_Time_--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + THE SAVOY.--This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage, + sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season + from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather + without injury, whilst the _dwarf_ kind are improved and + rendered more tender by frost. + +PARSNIP SOUP. + +141. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and +cayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106. + +_Mode_.--Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which has +been previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then add +nearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass all +through a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock. +Season, boil, and serve immediately. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from October to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + THE PARSNIP.--This is a biennial plant, with a root like a + carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly + equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state, may + be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also + to be found, generally distributed over Europe; and, in Catholic + countries, is mostly used with salt fish, in Lent. In Scotland + it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and + potatoes; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is + found to yield, in conjunction with the hop, a pleasant + beverage; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and + makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is + 99 parts in 1,000; 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar. + +PEA SOUP (GREEN). + +142. INGREDIENTS.--3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 or three +thin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2 +French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of common +stock. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and lettuces, +to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the remainder of +the stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil for another +hour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soup +through a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it. Have ready a +pint of _young_ peas boiled; add them to the soup, put in the sugar, +give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, a +little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead of +stock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; but use a +double quantity of vegetables. + + +WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW). + +143. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, +trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2 +turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts +of soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock, +or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. + +_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float off +such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to +pulp; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for 2 hours, +stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well, +season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. _Seasonable_ all the +year round, but more suitable for cold weather. _Sufficient_ for 12 +persons. + +[Illustration: PEA.] + + THE PEA.--It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in + Greece, and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the + common garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belonging + to it. The gray, or field pea, called _bisallie_ by the French, + is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds, and + is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild + plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit. + From the tendency of all other varieties "to run away" and + become different to what they originally were, it is very + difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea + was well known to the Romans, and, probably, was introduced to + Britain at an early period; for we find peas mentioned by + Lydgate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London. + They seem, however, for a considerable time, to have fallen out + of use; for, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us + they were brought from Holland, and were accounted "fit dainties + for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." There are some + varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are + eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans. They are called + _sugar_ peas, and the best variety is the large crooked sugar, + which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary + vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when + subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not + to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially + for sea-stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine + matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an + article of food. + +PEA SOUP (inexpensive). + +144. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of onions, 1/4 lb. of carrots, 2 oz. of +celery, 3/4 lb. of split peas, a little mint, shred fine; 1 +tablespoonful of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts +of water, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. + +_Mode_.--Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter or +dripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces; pour the water on +them, and when boiling add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly 3 hours, +or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar, seasoning, and +mint; boil for 1/4 of an hour, and serve. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. + + +POTATO SOUP. + +I. + +145. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of mealy potatoes, boiled or steamed very dry, +pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly, that no lumps +remain, and gradually put them to the boiling stock; pass it through a +sieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well, and serve with fried +bread. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +II. + +146. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of shin of beef, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion, +1/2 a pint of peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt to +taste, 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion, and +put them in a stewpan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew gently till +the gravy is drawn from the meat; strain it off, take out the beef, and +pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back in +the soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this is tender. +Season, and serve with fried bread cut into it. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. + + +III. + +(_Very Economical_.) + +147. INGREDIENTS.--4 middle-sized potatoes well pared, a thick slice of +bread, 6 leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the white +extends upwards from the roots, a teacupful of rice, a teaspoonful of +salt, and half that of pepper, and 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--The water must be completely boiling before anything is put +into it; then add the whole of the ingredients at once, with the +exception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover, and let these +come to a brisk boil; put in the others, and let the whole boil slowly +for an hour, or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done, and their +several juices extracted and mixed. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +[Illustration: POTATOES.] + + THE POTATO.--Humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of + South America; but it has been found growing wild both in Chili + and Buenos Ayres. It was first brought to Spain from the + neighbourhood of Quito, in the early part of the sixteenth + century, first to England from Virginia, in 1586, and first + planted by Sir Walter Raleigh, on his estate of Youghal, near + Cork, in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in + Lancashire, in England, and was, at first, recommended to be + eaten as a delicate dish, and not as common food. This was in + 1587. _Nutritious Properties_.--Of a thousand parts of the + potato, Sir H. Davy found about a fourth nutritive; say, 200 + mucilage or starch, 20 sugar, and 30 gluten. + +PRINCE OF WALES'S SOUP. + +148. INGREDIENTS.--12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strong +veal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very bright +stock, No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as round +as possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be very +bright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning. Have +little pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a shilling; moisten +them with stock; put them into a tureen and pour the soup over without +shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the +appearance of the soup, and make it look thick. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Seasonable_ in the winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + THE PRINCE Of WALES.--This soup was invented by a philanthropic + friend of the Editress, to be distributed among the poor of a + considerable village, when the Prince of Wales attained his + majority, on the 9th November, 1859. Accompanying this fact, the + following notice, which appears in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF + UNIVERSAL INFORMATION" may appropriately be introduced, + premising that British princes attain their majority in their + 18th year, whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that + period till their 21st.--"ALBERT EDWARD, Prince of Wales, and + heir to the British throne, merits a place in this work on + account of the high responsibilities which he is, in all + probability, destined to fulfil as sovereign of the British + empire. On the 10th of November, 1858, he was gazetted as having + been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army. Speaking + of this circumstance, the _Times_ said,--'The significance of + this event is, that it marks the period when the heir to the + British throne is about to take rank among men, and to enter + formally upon a career, which every loyal subject of the queen + will pray may be a long and a happy one, for his own sake and + for the sake of the vast empire which, in the course of nature, + he will one day be called to govern. The best wish that we can + offer for the young prince is, that in his own path he may ever + keep before him the bright example of his royal mother, and show + himself worthy of her name.' There are few in these realms who + will not give a fervent response to these sentiments. B. + November 9th, 1841." + +POTAGE PRINTANIER, OR SPRING SOUP. + +149. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a pint of green peas, if in season, a little +chervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley, 2 +oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, +2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Put in a very clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces, onions, +parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer till +tender. Season with salt and pepper; when done, strain off the +vegetables, and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the +stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it a +toss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with the +vegetables which you strained off, to the soup. + +_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from May to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +RICE SOUP. + +I. + +150. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, cayenne, and mace, 2 +quarts of white stock. + +_Mode_.--Throw the rice into boiling water, and let it remain 5 minutes; +then pour it into a sieve, and allow it to drain well. Now add it to the +stock boiling, and allow it to stew till it is quite tender; season to +taste. Serve quickly. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: EARS OF RICE.] + + RICE.--This is a plant of Indian origin, and has formed the + principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most + remote antiquity. Both Pliny and Dioscorides class it with the + cereals, though Galen places it among the vegetables. Be this as + it may, however, it was imported to Greece, from India, about + 286 years before Christ, and by the ancients it was esteemed + both nutritious and fattening. There are three kinds of + rice,--the Hill rice, the Patna, and the Carolina, of the United + States. Of these, only the two latter are imported to this + country, and the Carolina is considered the best, as it is the + dearest. The nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior + to those of wheat; but it is both a light and a wholesome food. + In combination with other foods, its nutritive qualities are + greatly increased; but from its having little stimulating power, + it is apt, when taken in large quantities alone, to lie long on + the stomach. + +II. + +151. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 a pint of +cream, rather more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a tammy; +put the stock in the stewpan, add all the rice, and simmer gently for 5 +minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the cream (previously +boiled), and strain through a hair sieve; take the soup off the fire, +add the eggs and cream, stirring frequently. Heat it gradually, stirring +all the time; but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +SAGO SOUP. + +152. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to the +boiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and forms +a sort of jelly. + +_Time_.--Nearly an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Note_.--The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previously +boiled, and added at the moment of serving, much improves this soup. + +[Illustration: SAGO PALM.] + + SAGO.--The farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of + the SAGO tree (the _Sagus farinifera_ of Linnaeus), which grows + spontaneously in the East Indies and in the archipelago of the + Indian Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous diet of + the inhabitants. In order to procure it, the tree is felled and + sawn in pieces. The pith is then taken out, and put in + receptacles of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour + separates from the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where it + is suffered to remain until the water is poured off, when it is + taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry. To give it the + round granular form in which we find it come to this country, it + is passed through a colander, then rubbed into little balls, and + dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a + growth of seven years, when a single trunk will yield 600 lbs. + weight; and, as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees, + a large return of flour is the result. The best quality has a + slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolves to a jelly, in hot + water. As a restorative diet, it is much used. + +SEMOLINA SOUP. + +153. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No. +105, or 106. + +_Mode_.--Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, to +prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart, or 4d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + SEMOLINA.--This is the heart of the _grano duro_ wheat of Italy, + which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli. + It has a coarse appearance, and may be purchased at the Italian + warehouses. It is also called _soojee;_ and _semoletta_ is + another name for a finer sort. + +SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe). + +154. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter, +salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of +bouillon, No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream, +butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to the +consistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped, +and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boiling +bouillon over them. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English +gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859, +and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel's troops, on the day +before the battle, to partake of a portion of their _potage_. He +willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners had +made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. In +sending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however, +Anglicised, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it. + + +SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe). + +155. INGREDIENTS.--As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill a +vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slip +them into the soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of the +spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_,1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from October to June. + +[Illustration: SPINACH.] + + SPINACH.--This plant was unknown by the ancients, although it + was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the + middle of the 14th century. Some say, that it was originally + brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in + England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the + other. There are three varieties in use; the round-leaved, the + triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, known by its large + leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup; but the + leaves are sometimes boiled alone, mashed, and eaten as greens. + +TAPIOCA SOUP. + +156. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106. + +_Mode_.--Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to a +boil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost. 1s. or 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + TAPIOCA.--This excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the + pith of the cassava-tree, and is made in the East Indies, and + also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as a starch from the + tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron, + and afterwards broken into grains, in which form it is imported + into this country. Its nutritive properties are large, and as a + food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is + in great estimation. "No amylaceous substance," says Dr. + Christison, "is so much relished by infants about the time of + weaning; and in them it is less apt to become sour during + digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not + excepted." + +TURNIP SOUP. + +157. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2 +quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste. + +_Mode_.--Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil; wash, +drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin; put them in the +butter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour. +Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Rub it +through a tammy, put it back into the stewpan, but do not let it boil. +Serve very hot. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--By adding a little cream, this soup will be much improved. + +[Illustration: TURNIP.] + + THE TURNIP.--Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not + the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this + country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the + Romans, and in Germany and the Low Countries they have from time + immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their cultivated + state, they are generally supposed to have been introduced to + England from Hanover, in the time of George I.; but this has + been doubted, as George II. caused a description of the Norfolk + system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects, for their + enlightenment in the art of turnip culture. As a culinary + vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or + mixed with soups und stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is + small, being only 42 parts in 1,000. + +VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP. + +158. INGREDIENTS.--4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very small, +1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of white +stock, No. 107. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock boiling. +When done almost to a mash, press them through a sieve, and at the +moment of serving, add the boiling cream and seasoning. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in summer. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.] + + THE VEGETABLE MARROW.--This is a variety of the gourd family, + brought from Persia by an East-India ship, and only recently + introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a + considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when fried + with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways, either + by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies. + +VEGETABLE SOUP. + +I. + +159. INGREDIENTS.--7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of potato, +cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour, a +teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 +eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Boil the vegetables in the water 2-1/2 hours; stir them often, +and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be 2 +quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour, +mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; stir in the +soup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the +tureen; pour on, stir well, and serve. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +II. + +160. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips; 1/4 lb. +of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot of +herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2 +quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow 3/4 lb. of vegetables to +2 quarts of stock, No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain them +well, and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar. +Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let them +brown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When done, pour the +stock or boiling water on them; add the bread, celery, herbs, and +seasoning; stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain it off. When ready to +serve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and flavour with +a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or a little ketchup. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +III. + +(_Good and Cheap, made without Meat_.) + +161. INGREDIENTS.--6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots, +2 onions; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of +bread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, 1/4 saltspoonful of ground black +pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces; toast +the bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the water and +seasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is reduced to a pulp, +and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup, which it should +resemble in consistence; but it should be a dark brown colour. Warm it +up again when required; put in the Harvey's sauce, and, if necessary, +add to the flavouring. + +_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_,1d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 16 persons. + +_Note_.--This recipe was forwarded to the Editress by a lady in the +county of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended. + + +VERMICELLI SOUP. + +I. + +162. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of bacon, stuck with cloves; 1/2 oz. of +butter, worked up in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling; 2 oz. of +vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107. + +_Mode_.--Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan, and +stew for 3/4 of an hour. Take the vermicelli, add it to a little of the +stock, and set it on the fire, till it is quite tender. When the soup is +ready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the bacon on a dish. Skim +the soup as clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, over the +fowl. Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl and bacon, 10d. +per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +[Illustration: VERMICELLI.] + + VERMICELLI.--This is a preparation of Italian origin, and is + made in the same way as macaroni, only the yolks of eggs, sugar, + saffron, and cheese, are added to the paste. + +II. + +163. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock, +No. 169. + +_Mode_.--Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently for +1/2 an hour, and stir frequently. + +_Time_--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +WHITE SOUP. + +164. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of cold veal or +poultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1 +blade of mace, pounded, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled +eggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107. + +_Mode_.--Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful of +water, and add to them the meat, which should be previously pounded with +the bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel, very finely +chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the whole, and simmer +for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup, bring it to a +boil, and serve immediately. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--A more economical white soup may be made by using common veal +stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should be +served with it. + +_Average cost_, 5d. per quart. + + +USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES. + +165. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, which +may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-liquor the +larder may furnish, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs, +1/2 lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very well); 1/2 +lb. of carrots, 1/2 lb. of turnips, 1/2 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 a +pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. of salt, 1 +oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in a +copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 1/2 an hour. Cut up +the vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4 +hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings, +and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which simmer +gently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water. + +_Time_.--6-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart. + +_Note_.--The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the +Editress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of this +soup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village +near which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great; but she +has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked, and gave to the +members of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place of +the cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cottagers, +their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the "cooking." +art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish, every day. + + +MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS. + + +BRILLA SOUP. + +166. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large +sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4 +quarts water. + +_Mode_.--Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nice +square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let it +cool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat in the cold +liquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop the onions, add +them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is tender. +If not brown enough, colour it with browning. + +_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + THYME.--This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of + it in culinary preparations, as well as in aromatic liqueurs. + There are two species of it growing wild in Britain, but the + garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more + delicate in its perfume than the others. Its young leaves give + an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces; they are also used in + stuffings. + +CALF'S-HEAD SOUP. + +167. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a very +small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to +taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of +white stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water. + +_Mode_.--Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it +thoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or +pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well +skimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim and +strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soup +with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces about +two inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are +quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, and +serve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover it +up, or it will discolour. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No. +107. + +_Seasonable_ from May to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured +with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones +from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, and +it will make a very good common stock. + + +GIBLET SOUP. + +168. INGREDIENTS.--3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of +beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2 +carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of +cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quarts +of water. + +_Mode_.--Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put them +in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions, +herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till the +giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done, +take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve, +add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boil +it up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavoured +with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add salt +to taste. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_,9d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +GRAVY SOUP. + +169. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5 +lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham; +1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of +celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive, +seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of +boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce +(_see_ SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy. + +_Mode_.--Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not let +them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum +rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients, +and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring +it any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim off +all the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold, +you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, which +serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c. + +_Time_.--7 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 14 persons. + + ENDIVE.--This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of + vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China + and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced + to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is + consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London,--in + the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;--it is + greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews. + +HARE SOUP. + +I. + +170. INGREDIENTS.--A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a +slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. of +whole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the +crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood as +possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all the +ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the +day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts of +the hare in the soup, and serve. + +OR, + + +II. + +Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in the +soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it, +with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through a +sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table +immediately. + +_Time_.-8 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +[Illustration: HARE.] + + THE COMMON HARE.--This little animal is found throughout Europe, + and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as + it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has + endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear. + As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has + furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may + catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which + enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and + behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its + form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground, + its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick + covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was + forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now, + though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by + Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In + purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both + hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt, + their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of + a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip; + whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp. + +HESSIAN SOUP. + +171. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6 +turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury +herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4 +cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5 +hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a +pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add +the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previously +soaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp +through a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; give +one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 16 persons. + +_Note_.--An excellent hash or _ragout_ can be made by cutting up the +nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little +of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of +ketchup. + + +MOCK TURTLE. + +I. + +172. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean +ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme, +sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when +obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle of +Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste, +the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded +sugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104. + +_Mode_.--Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the head +up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from the +bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water. +Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let it +boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set it +on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cut +small, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearly +a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge in +as much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder of +the stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub it +through a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne, +and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon; +and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in +the force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. per quart, or 2s. 6d. +without wine or force-meat balls. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it +was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with +vegetables, etc. + + +II. + +(_More Economical_.) + +173. INGREDIENTS.--A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels, +2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades of +mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meat +balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and +lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it +till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain +carefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half +squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the +soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, or +Harvey's sauce. + +_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + THE CALF--The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when + young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of + soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and + broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for + fattening calves better than any others in England, where they + are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be + done in the immediate neighbourhood of London. + + MARJORAM.--There are several species of this plant; but that + which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is + called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried, + they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for + soups, stuffings, &c. + + BASIL.--This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly + aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It + is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with + French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads. + +MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. + +174. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove +of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, or +mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2 +quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock. + +_Mode_.-=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpan +with the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and +slightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, and +simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the +meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to the +soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of the +stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and +serve boiled rice with it. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart, with stock No. 105. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head. +Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping +chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning +with curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder, +and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good. + +[Illustration: CORIANDER.] + + CORIANDER.--This plant, which largely enters into the + composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from + the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially + in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and + druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of + its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed + in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for + the purposes of distillation. + +A GOOD MUTTON SOUP. + +175. INGREDIENTS.--A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3 +turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt +and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let +them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put +the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it +commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to +simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, +dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the +soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a +tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little +sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve. + +_Time_.--15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1s. 3d. per +quart. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + THE SHEEP.--This animal formed the principal riches of the + patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until + its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia; + but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It + is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a + domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its + support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care + and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is + scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful + purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is + appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst + its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life. + Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and + its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of + the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow, + yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is + among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten. + Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep, + when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool. + + "Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft + By needy man, that all-depending lord, + How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies! + What softness in his melancholy face, + What dumb complaining innocence appears!" + +OX-CHEEK SOUP. + +176. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean +ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3 +blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a +teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning, +the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter; +break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cut +the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set the +whole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, and +simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy part +of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken with +flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery is +tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat into +small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of a +French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup. + +_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. + + THE OX.--Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that + feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human + food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious + sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so + sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of + the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos + venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and + whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the + cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes + of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of + greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There + is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the + arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made + combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are + also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention + ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their + gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones + often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are + manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian + blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by + saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their + tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the + utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known. + +OX-TAIL SOUP. + +177. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2 +carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of +savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a +tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port +wine, 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and +put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices, +and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water, +and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the +stewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and +simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them +out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with the +ketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and +serve. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +PARTRIDGE SOUP. + +178. INGREDIENTS.--2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1 +head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fanciful +shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to +taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106. + +_Mode_.--Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butter +and ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast, +and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and +add the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3 +pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fat +off as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give it +one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar and +seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; when +quite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. or 1s. 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a +French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewed +celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen. + + THE PARTRIDGE.--This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It + became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to + furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but + its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable + expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians + trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the + cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The + Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other + portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however, + ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we + consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of + all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the + geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine. + +PHEASANT SOUP. + +179. INGREDIENTS.--2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2 +large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls, +the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little +pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and +ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan, +with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain +the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously +soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil, +and serve. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 10d. per quart, or, if made +with fragments of gold game, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ from October to February. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Note_.--Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great +advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice. + + +PORTABLE SOUP. + +180. INGREDIENTS.--2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot +of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades +of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all +the ingredients. + +_Mode_.--Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a +stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not +done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off +all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a +sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and +uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and +set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the +dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is +thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a small +quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on +a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters. + +_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s. + +_Note_.--Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small +piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and +simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes, +may be added. + + THE LAUREL or BAY.--The leaves of this tree frequently enter + into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used + without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is + perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that + there are two kinds of bay-trees,--the Classic laurel, whose + leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which + is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a + kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings, + custards &c.; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic + acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be + used at a time. + +RABBIT SOUP. + +181. INGREDIENTS.--2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury +herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and +white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the +yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts +of water. + +_Mode_.--Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and +keep the nice pieces for a dish or _entree_. Put them into warm water, +and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a +faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or +water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water, +and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones, +covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add +the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it +cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and +the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and +gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix +arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and +stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be very +white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour, +vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5 +minutes before serving. + +_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + + +REGENCY SOUP. + +182. Ingredients.--Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as of +pheasants, partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery, +1 turnip, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4 +pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common +stock, No. 106. + +_Mode_.--Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with the +vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim off +all the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3 +waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, and +when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half with +the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub it through a +clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, and +serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart, if made with medium +stock, or 6d. per quart, with common stock. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +SOUP A LA REINE. + +I. + +183. INGREDIENTS.--1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1 +1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of +sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107. + +_Mode_.--Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which will +be in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meat +from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and pound +very fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with the +crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through a +tammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if you +prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour the +soup over it, when you serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 2s. 7d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another +of boiling water. (_See_ BAIN MARIE, No. 87.) + + +II. (Economical.) + +184. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice, +salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106. + +_Mode_.--Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has +been slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded, dilute +with the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should neither be +too clear nor too thick. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Note_.--If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with +an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt, +and stew for 3 hours. + + +STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT. + +185. INGREDIENTS.--Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4 +carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal +or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for +23/4 hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season, +and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart without the meat. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Note_.--If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the +vegetables. + + +STEW SOUP. + +I. + +186. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. of +_rice_, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 +quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, and +boil gently for 21/2 hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great +improvement. + +_Time_.-21/2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + + +II. + +187. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split +peas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of +rice, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and add +them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken with +the oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, and +season with pepper and salt. + +_Time_.--3-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been +boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c. + + +TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas). + +188. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of a +cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to +taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; let +it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones out, +and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix the +rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add it +with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ at Christmas. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be +served in it. + + THE TURKEY.--The common turkey is a native of North America, and + was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII. + According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," + about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural + Christmas feasts. + + "Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, + Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd, + Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear, + As then in the country is counted good cheer." + + It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we + have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the + forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the + severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever + becoming plentiful. They are very fond of the seeds of nettles, + and the seeds of the foxglove poison them. + +TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe). + +189. INGREDIENTS.--A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1 +large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1 +onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of +Madeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the _Quenelles a Tortue_, 1 lb. of veal, 1 +lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped +parsley, the juice of 2 lemons. + +_Mode_.--To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the +turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning +heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut +this off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. +may run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with the +knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which +sometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is +obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, +a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; and +when you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water, +and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil +the back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however, +allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be +boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on +earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them +to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, +and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to +moisten all the sauces. + +All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be +drawn down in the following manner:--Lay the slices of ham on the bottom +of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to +the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and over +the whole the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are +boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It may now be +ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the +fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it +again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling. Put in +a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a +turtle,--sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 +bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a +large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. With +respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and if +so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their +appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is +also completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very +thin white _roux;_ for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When the +flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, +moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils. +Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw +the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and +all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this time +all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut to +about the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup, +which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat +and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,--sweet +basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, +common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion +cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan, +with about 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire +till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a small +bit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When done, rub it +through a tammy, and add it to the soup. Let this boil, till no white +scum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the +sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour the +soup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:-- + +QUENELLES A TORTUE.--Make some _quenelles a tortue_, which being +substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out the +fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat, +without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same +quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, +and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf's +udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little +cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then +thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next try +this _farce_ or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its +consistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the _farce_ +is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let +the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg; +poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on a +sieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice +of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the +soup. THE FINS may be served as a _plat d'entree_ with a little turtle +sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle _au bain +marie_, and serve the members entire, with a _matelote_ sauce, garnished +with mushrooms, cocks' combs, _quenelles_, &c. When either lemon-juice +or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place. + +_Note_.--It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day +before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more +uniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve +the green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour,--the +natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true +connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle is +entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. +You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, it +will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break +all the rest into rags. If you warm in a _bain marie_, the turtle will +always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes +strong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour. + +THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.--This is the most expensive soup brought to +table. It is sold by the quart,--one guinea being the standard price for +that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb., +according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks use +the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being +put in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The +cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about L2, and for a +small one, containing the green fat, 7s. 6d. From these about 6 quarts +of good soup may be made. + +[Illustration: THE TURTLE.] + + THE GREEN TURTLE.--This reptile is found in large numbers on the + coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in + both the old and new worlds. Their length is often five feet and + upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As + turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they + frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the + submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them + all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of + living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly + and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have + no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same + places as if entirely by accident. England is mostly supplied + with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive + and in tolerable health. The green turtle is highly prized on + account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the + upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest + and most delicate parts. The soup, however, is apt to disagree + with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the turtle has only + come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds + of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord + mayor's dinner in Guildhall. + +A GOOD FAMILY SOUP. + +190. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, any +cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 +parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice; +salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4 +hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain off the +soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts of the +tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all the +fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a small +quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables +are tender, and serve with toasted bread. + +_Time_.--5 hours. __Average cost_,3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. + + +HODGE-PODGE. + +191. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of +table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper and +salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a few +minutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; stew +gently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, and +serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery. + +_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 12 persons. + + TABLE BEER.--This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not + made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of + colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is, or ought to + be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the + best pale malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn + from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. of + hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not + adapted to keep long. + + + + +FISH SOUPS. + + +FISH STOCK. + +192. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef or veal (these can be omitted), any +kind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for table, +2 onions, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 carrots, 2 +quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, into +the water. Simmer for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, and strain it. +When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding +the water. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, with meat, 10d. per quart; without, +3d. + +_Note_.--Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soon +turns sour. + + +CRAYFISH SOUP. + +193. INGREDIENTS.--50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the +crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste, 2 +quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192. + +_Mode_.--Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates until +they are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter and +anchovies; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for 3/4 of +an hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the stock +to it, with the crumb of the rolls; give it one boil, and rub it through +a tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in the fish, but do not let the +soup boil, after it has been rubbed through the tammy. If necessary, add +seasoning. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. or 1s. 9d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from January to July. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +[Illustration: CRAYFISH.] + + THE CRAYFISH.--This is one of those fishes that were highly + esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when brought + from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, and + seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us, + that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with + fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with about + three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them, + because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the + water in which they are kept, to be continually renewed. + +EEL SOUP. + +194. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 blades of +mace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2 +tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in the +stewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then pour +the water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs, +mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not break +the fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a batter +with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream, +and adding a little ketchup or Harvey's sauce. + + +LOBSTER SOUP. + +195. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of a +French roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 strip +of lemon-peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of flour, +1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepper +to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, and +small claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin and the +bag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the roll, +anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer gently till +all the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the spawn in a +mortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the cream +and milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the tails cut in +pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster, +seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few +bread crumbs; moisten them with the egg, heat them in the soup, and +serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3s 6d per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from April to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + +OYSTER SOUP. + +I. + +196. INGREDIENTS.--6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pint +of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of flour; salt, cayenne, and mace +to taste. + +_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor; take them out, beard +them, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in the +beards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and simmer for +1/2 an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add the +remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to a boil, +add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes, stir in +the boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 8d. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream, +and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour. + + +II. + +197. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz. +butter, 1 oz. of flour. + +_Mode_.--Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor; then add +it, well strained, to the broth; thicken with the butter and flour, and +simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not let +it boil, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per quart. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + + SEASON OF OYSTERS.--From April and May to the end of July, + oysters are said to be sick; but by the end of August they + become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning. + When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the + females a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of + Oppian, it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the + oyster is generally found adhering to rocks. The starfish is one + of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says:-- + + The prickly star creeps on with full deceit + To force the oyster from his close retreat. + When gaping lids their widen'd void display, + The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray, + Of all its treasures spoils the rifled case, + And empty shells the sandy hillock grace. + +PRAWN SOUP. + +198. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns, +the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste, +1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stewpan +with 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of +water; stew them for 1/4 hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fish +stock or water into a stewpan; add the strained liquor, pound the prawns +with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup, rub them +through a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup; add ketchup or +anchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice. When it is well +cooked, put in a few picked prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, and +serve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter and flour. + +_Time_.--hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. per quart, if made with water. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli served in +it, which makes it a very tasteful soup. + +[Illustration: THE PRAWN.] + + THE PRAWN.--This little fish bears a striking resemblance to the + shrimp, but is neither so common nor so small. It is to be found + on most of the sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is + famous for shrimps, where they are potted; but both the prawns + and the shrimps vended in London, are too much salted for the + excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved. They are + extremely lively little animals, as seen in their native + retreats. + + + + +[Illustration] + +FISH. + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES. + + +199. IN NATURAL HISTORY, FISHES form the fourth class in the system of +Linnaeus, and are described as having long under-jaws, eggs without +white, organs of sense, fins for supporters, bodies covered with concave +scales, gills to supply the place of lungs for respiration, and water +for the natural element of their existence. Had mankind no other +knowledge of animals than of such as inhabit the land and breathe their +own atmosphere, they would listen with incredulous wonder, if told that +there were other kinds of beings which existed only in the waters, and +which would die almost as soon as they were taken from them. However +strongly these facts might be attested, they would hardly believe them, +without the operation of their own senses, as they would recollect the +effect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water, and the +impossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened period +of time. Experience, however, has taught them, that the "great deep" is +crowded with inhabitants of various sizes, and of vastly different +constructions, with modes of life entirely distinct from those which +belong to the animals of the land, and with peculiarities of design, +equally wonderful with those of any other works which have come from the +hand of the Creator. The history of these races, however, must remain +for ever, more or less, in a state of darkness, since the depths in +which they live, are beyond the power of human exploration, and since +the illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirely +out of the reach of human accessibility. + +200. IN STUDYING THE CONFORMATION OF FISHES, we naturally conclude that +they are, in every respect, well adapted to the element in which they +have their existence. Their shape has a striking resemblance to the +lower part of a ship; and there is no doubt that the form of the fish +originally suggested the form of the ship. The body is in general +slender, gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities, and +flattened on each of its sides. This is precisely the form of the lower +part of the hull of a ship; and it enables both the animal and the +vessel, with comparative ease, to penetrate and divide the resisting +medium for which they have been adapted. The velocity of a ship, +however, in sailing before the wind, is by no means to be compared to +that of a fish. It is well known that the largest fishes will, with the +greatest ease, overtake a ship in full sail, play round it without +effort, and shoot ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from their great +flexibility, which, to compete with mocks the labours of art, and +enables them to migrate thousands of miles in a season, without the +slightest indications of languor or fatigue. + +201. THE PRINCIPAL INSTRUMENTS EMPLOYED BY FISHES to accelerate their +motion, are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. By means of the +air-bladder they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of their +bodies. When they wish to sink, they compress the muscles of the +abdomen, and eject the air contained in it; by which, their weight, +compared with that of the water, is increased, and they consequently +descend. On the other hand, when they wish to rise, they relax the +compression of the abdominal muscles, when the air-bladder fills and +distends, and the body immediately ascends to the surface. How simply, +yet how wonderfully, has the Supreme Being adapted certain means to the +attainment of certain ends! Those fishes which are destitute of the +air-bladder are heavy in the water, and have no great "alacrity" in +rising. The larger proportion of them remain at the bottom, unless they +are so formed as to be able to strike their native element downwards +with sufficient force to enable them to ascend. When the air-bladder of +a fish is burst, its power of ascending to the surface has for ever +passed away. From a knowledge of this fact, the fishermen of cod are +enabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in their +well-boats. The means they adopt to accomplish this, is to perforate the +sound, or air-bladder, with a needle, which disengages the air, when the +fishes immediately descend to the bottom of the well, into which they +are thrown. Without this operation, it would be impossible to keep the +cod under water whilst they had life. In swimming, the _fins_ enable +fishes to preserve their upright position, especially those of the +belly, which act like two feet. Without those, they would swim with +their bellies upward, as it is in their backs that the centre of gravity +lies. In ascending and descending, these are likewise of great +assistance, as they contract and expand accordingly. The _tail_ is an +instrument of great muscular force, and largely assists the fish in all +its motions. In some instances it acts like the rudder of a ship, and +enables it to turn sideways; and when moved from side to side with a +quick vibratory motion, fishes are made, in the same manner as the +"screw" propeller makes a steamship, to dart forward with a celerity +proportioned to the muscular force with which it is employed. + +202. THE BODIES OF FISHES are mostly covered with a kind of horny +scales; but some are almost entirely without them, or have them so +minute as to be almost invisible; as is the case with the eel. The +object of these is to preserve them from injury by the pressure of the +water, or the sudden contact with pebbles, rocks, or sea-weeds. Others, +again, are enveloped in a fatty, oleaginous substance, also intended as +a defence against the friction of the water; and those in which the +scales are small, are supplied with a larger quantity of slimy matter. + +203. THE RESPIRATION OF FISHES is effected by means of those comb-like +organs which are placed on each side of the neck, and which are called +gills. It is curious to watch the process of breathing as it is +performed by the finny tribes. It seems to be so continuous, that it +might almost pass for an illustration of the vexed problem which +conceals the secret of perpetual motion. In performing it, they fill +their mouths with water, which they drive backwards with a force so +great as to open the large flap, to allow it to escape behind. In this +operation all, or a great portion, of the air contained in the water, is +left among the feather-like processes of the gills, and is carried into +the body, there to perform its part in the animal economy. In proof of +this, it has been ascertained that, if the water in which fishes are +put, is, by any means, denuded of its air, they immediately seek the +surface, and begin to gasp for it. Hence, distilled water is to them +what a vacuum made by an air-pump, is to most other animals. For this +reason, when a fishpond, or other aqueous receptacle in which fishes are +kept, is entirely frozen over, it is necessary to make holes in the ice, +not so especially for the purpose of feeding them, as for that of giving +them air to breathe. + +204. THE POSITIONS OF THE TEETH OF FISHES are well calculated to excite +our amazement; for, in some cases, these are situated in the jaws, +sometimes on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat. +They are in general sharp-pointed and immovable; but in the carp they +are obtuse, and in the pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeper +hold than such as the mere skin can afford. In the herring, the tongue +is set with teeth, to enable it the better, it is supposed, to retain +its food. + +205. ALTHOUGH NATURALISTS HAVE DIVIDED FISHES into two great tribes, the +_osseous_ and the _cartilaginous_, yet the distinction is not very +precise; for the first have a great deal of cartilage, and the second, +at any rate, a portion of calcareous matter in their bones. It may, +therefore, be said that the bones of fishes form a kind of intermediate +substance between true bones and cartilages. The backbone extends +through the whole length of the body, and consists of vertebrae, strong +and thick towards the head, but weaker and more slender as it approaches +the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which are +increased in size in proportion with the body. The ribs are attached to +the processes of the vertebrae, and inclose the breast and abdomen. Some +kinds, as the rays, have no ribs; whilst others, as the sturgeon and +eel, have very short ones. Between the pointed processes of the +vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal (back) and the +anal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the processes by a +ligament. At the breast are the sternum or breastbone, clavicles or +collar-bones, and the scapulae or shoulder-blades, on which the +pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which support the ventral +or belly fins are called the _ossa pelvis_. Besides these principal +bones, there are often other smaller ones, placed between the muscles to +assist their motion. + +206. SOME OF THE ORGANS OF SENSE IN FISHES are supposed to be possessed +by them in a high degree, and others much more imperfectly. Of the +latter kind are the senses of touch and taste, which are believed to be +very slightly developed. On the other hand, those of hearing, seeing, +and smelling, are ascertained to be acute, but the first in a lesser +degree than both the second and third. Their possession of an auditory +organ was long doubted, and even denied by some physiologists; but it +has been found placed on the sides of the skull, or in the cavity which +contains the brain. It occupies a position entirely distinct and +detached from the skull, and, in this respect, differs in the local +disposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds. In some fishes, +as in those of the ray kind, the organ is wholly encompassed by those +parts which contain the cavity of the skull; whilst in the cod and +salmon kind it is in the part within the skull. Its structure is, in +every way, much more simple than that of the same sense in those animals +which live entirely in the air; but there is no doubt that they have the +adaptation suitable to their condition. In some genera, as in the rays, +the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the upper +surface of the head; whilst in others there is no visible external +orifice whatever. However perfect the _sight_ of fishes may be, +experience has shown that this sense is of much less use to them than +that of smelling, in searching for their food. The optic nerves in +fishes have this peculiarity,--that they are not confounded with one +another in their middle progress between their origin and their orbit. +The one passes over the other without any communication; so that the +nerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes distinctly to the +right eye, and that which comes from the right goes distinctly to the +left. In the greater part of them, the eye is covered with the same +transparent skin that covers the rest of the head. The object of this +arrangement, perhaps, is to defend it from the action of the water, as +there are no eyelids. The globe in front is somewhat depressed, and is +furnished behind with a muscle, which serves to lengthen or flatten it, +according to the necessities of the animal. The crystalline humour, +which in quadrupeds is flattened, is, in fishes, nearly globular. The +organ of _smelling_ in fishes is large, and is endued, at its entry, +with a dilating and contracting power, which is employed as the wants of +the animal may require. It is mostly by the acuteness of their smell +that fishes are enabled to discover their food; for their tongue is not +designed for nice sensation, being of too firm a cartilaginous substance +for this purpose. + +207. WITH RESPECT TO THE FOOD OF FISHES, this is almost universally +found in their own element. They are mostly carnivorous, though they +seize upon almost anything that comes in their way: they even devour +their own offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for all +living creatures. Those, to which Nature has meted out mouths of the +greatest capacity, would seem to pursue everything with life, and +frequently engage in fierce conflicts with their prey. The animal with +the largest mouth is usually the victor; and he has no sooner conquered +his foe than he devours him. Innumerable shoals of one species pursue +those of another, with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to the +equator, through all the varying temperatures and depths of their +boundless domain. In these pursuits a scene of universal violence is the +result; and many species must have become extinct, had not Nature +accurately proportioned the means of escape, the production, and the +numbers, to the extent and variety of the danger to which they are +exposed. Hence the smaller species are not only more numerous, but more +productive than the larger; whilst their instinct leads them in search +of food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of the +waters, many of their foes are unable to follow them. + +208. THE FECUNDITY OF FISHES has been the wonder of every natural +philosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject. They are +in general oviparous, or egg-producing; but there are a few, such as the +eel and the blenny, which are viviparous, or produce their young alive. +The males have the _milt_ and the females the _roe_; but some +individuals, as the sturgeon and the cod tribes, are said to contain +both. The greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel; but +some of those which dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggs +to sea-weeds. In every instance, however, their fruitfulness far +surpasses that of any other race of animals. According to Lewenhoeck, +the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs, contained in a +single roe. The flounder produces one million; the mackerel above five +hundred thousand; a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand; a +carp fourteen inches in length, according to Petit, contained two +hundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four; a perch +deposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty; and a +female sturgeon seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand two +hundred. The viviparous species are by no means so prolific; yet the +blenny brings forth two or three hundred at a time, which commence +sporting together round their parent the moment they have come into +existence. + +209. IN REFERENCE TO THE LONGEVITY OF FISHES, it is affirmed to surpass +that of all other created beings; and it is supposed they are, to a +great extent, exempted from the diseases to which the flesh of other +animals is heir. In place of suffering from the rigidity of age, which +is the cause of the natural decay of those that "live and move and have +their being" on the land, their bodies continue to grow with each +succeeding supply of food, and the conduits of life to perform their +functions unimpaired. The age of fishes has not been properly +ascertained, although it is believed that the most minute of the species +has a longer lease of life than man. The mode in which they die has been +noted by the Rev. Mr. White, the eminent naturalist of Selbourne. As +soon as the fish sickens, the head sinks lower and lower, till the +animal, as it were, stands upon it. After this, as it becomes weaker, it +loses its poise, till the tail turns over, when it comes to the surface, +and floats with its belly upwards. The reason for its floating in this +manner is on account of the body being no longer balanced by the fins of +the belly, and the broad muscular back preponderating, by its own +gravity, over the belly, from this latter being a cavity, and +consequently lighter. + +210. FISHES ARE EITHER SOLITARY OR GREGARIOUS, and some of them migrate +to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Of +sea-fishes, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble in +immense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean; but, +whether considered in their solitary or gregarious capacity, they are +alike wonderful to all who look through Nature up to Nature's God, and +consider, with due humility, yet exalted admiration, the sublime +variety, beauty, power, and grandeur of His productions, as manifested +in the Creation. + + +FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD. + +211. AS THE NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF FISH are deemed inferior to those of +what is called butchers' meat, it would appear, from all we can learn, +that, in all ages, it has held only a secondary place in the estimation +of those who have considered the science of gastronomy as a large +element in the happiness of mankind. Among the Jews of old it was very +little used, although it seems not to have been entirely interdicted, as +Moses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor fins. +The Egyptians, however, made fish an article of diet, notwithstanding +that it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however, is not a country +favourable to the production of fish, although we read of the people, +when hungry, eating it raw; of epicures among them having dried it in +the sun; and of its being salted and preserved, to serve as a repast on +days of great solemnity. + + The modern Egyptians are, in general, extremely temperate in + regard to food. Even the richest among them take little pride, + and, perhaps, experience as little delight, in the luxuries of + the table. Their dishes mostly consist of pilaus, soups, and + stews, prepared principally of onions, cucumbers, and other cold + vegetables, mixed with a little meat cut into small pieces. On + special occasions, however, a whole sheep is placed on the + festive board; but during several of the hottest months of the + year, the richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable + diet. The poor are contented with a little oil or sour milk, in + which they may dip their bread. + +212. PASSING FROM AFRICA TO EUROPE, we come amongst a people who have, +almost from time immemorial, occupied a high place in the estimation of +every civilized country; yet the Greeks, in their earlier ages, made +very little use of fish as an article of diet. In the eyes of the heroes +of Homer it had little favour; for Menelaus complained that "hunger +pressed their digestive organs," and they had been obliged to live upon +fish. Subsequently, however, fish became one of the principal articles +of diet amongst the Hellenes; and both Aristophanes and Athenaeus allude +to it, and even satirize their countrymen for their excessive partiality +to the turbot and mullet. + + So infatuated were many of the Greek gastronomes with the love + of fish, that some of them would have preferred death from + indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious dainties with + which a few of the species supplied them. Philoxenes of Cythera + was one of these. On being informed by his physician that he was + going to die of indigestion, on account of the quantity he was + consuming of a delicious fish, "Be it so," he calmly observed; + "but before I die, let me finish the remainder." + +213. THE GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF GREECE was highly favourable for the +development of a taste for the piscatory tribes; and the skill of the +Greek cooks was so great, that they could impart every variety of relish +to the dish they were called upon to prepare. Athenaeus has transmitted +to posterity some very important precepts upon their ingenuity in +seasoning with salt, oil, and aromatics. + + At the present day the food of the Greeks, through the combined + influence of poverty and the long fasts which their religion + imposes upon them, is, to a large extent, composed of fish, + accompanied with vegetables and fruit. Caviare, prepared from + the roes of sturgeons, is the national ragout, which, like all + other fish dishes, they season with aromatic herbs. Snails + dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish. + +214. AS THE ROMANS, in a great measure, took their taste in the fine +arts from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscine +appetites. The eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fish +dishes of the Roman epicures; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one +of the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table. + + With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it + was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great + barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of the red mullet + suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to + us, _horrible_ entertainment of the _fashionable_ in Roman + circles. It may be premised, that as England has, Rome, in her + palmy days, had, her fops, who had, no doubt, through the medium + of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red + mullet were removed, the flesh presented a fine pink-colour. + Having discovered this, it was further observed that at the + death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of + beautiful shades, and, in order that these might be witnessed + and enjoyed in their fullest perfection, the poor mullet was + served alive in a glass vessel. + +215. THE LOVE OF FISH among the ancient Romans rose to a real mania. +Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine +compounded of the liver of red mullets; and Lucullus had a canal cut +through a mountain, in the neighbourhood of Naples, that fish might be +the more easily transported to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, the +orator, wept over the death of a turbot which he had fed with his own +hands; and the daughter of Druses adorned one that she had, with rings +of gold. These were, surely, instances of misplaced affection; but there +is no accounting for tastes. It was but the other day that we read in +the "_Times_" of a wealthy _living_ English hermit, who delights in the +companionship of rats! + + The modern Romans are merged in the general name of Italians, + who, with the exception of macaroni, have no specially + characteristic article of food. + +216. FROM ROME TO GAUL is, considering the means of modern locomotion, +no great way; but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give us +little information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of its +inhabitants. Louis XII. engaged six fishmongers to furnish his board +with fresh-water animals, and Francis I. had twenty-two, whilst Henry +the Great extended his requirements a little further, and had +twenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV. the cooks had attained to such a +degree of perfection in their art, that they could convert the form and +flesh of the trout, pike, or carp, into the very shape and flavour of +the most delicious game. + + The French long enjoyed a European reputation for their skill + and refinement in the preparing of food. In place of plain + joints, French cookery delights in the marvels of what are + called made dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, in which no + trace of the original materials of which they are compounded is + to be found. + +217. FROM GAUL WE CROSS TO BRITAIN, where it has been asserted, by, at +least, one authority, that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish. However +this may be, we know that the British shores, particularly those of the +North Sea, have always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish, +which we may reasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants, or +likely to be lost upon them for the lack of knowledge as to how they +tasted. By the time of Edward II., fish had, in England, become a +dainty, especially the sturgeon, which was permitted to appear on no +table but that of the king. In the fourteenth century, a decree of King +John informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises; whilst in +the days of the Troubadours, whales were fished for and caught in the +Mediterranean Sea, for the purpose of being used as human food. + + Whatever checks the ancient British may have had upon their + piscatory appetites, there are happily none of any great + consequence upon the modern, who delight in wholesome food of + every kind. Their taste is, perhaps, too much inclined to that + which is accounted solid and substantial; but they really eat + more moderately, even of animal food, than either the French or + the Germans. Roast beef, or other viands cooked in the plainest + manner, are, with them, a sufficient luxury; yet they delight in + living _well_, whilst it is easy to prove how largely their + affections are developed by even the prospect of a substantial + cheer. In proof of this we will just observe, that if a great + dinner is to be celebrated, it is not uncommon for the appointed + stewards and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner + among themselves, in order to arrange the great one, and after + that, to have another dinner to discharge the bill which the + great one cost. This enjoyable disposition we take to form a + very large item in the aggregate happiness of the nation. + +218. THE GENERAL USE OF FISH, as an article of human food among +civilized nations, we have thus sufficiently shown, and will conclude +this portion of our subject with the following hints, which ought to be +remembered by all those who are fond of occasionally varying their +dietary with a piscine dish:-- + +I. Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition. +When the spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit for +human food. + +II. When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge, +however much it may be boiled; when it is in season, its muscles are +firm, and boil white and curdy. + +III. As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, +coal-fish, and whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, skate, +turbot, and flounders, are also good. + +IV. Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose after +they are killed; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be prepared +for the table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this is not of +such consequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for example, is +improved by being kept a day or two. + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRESSING FISH. + +219. IN DRESSING FISH, of any kind, the first point to be attended to, +is to see that it be perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it +too much; as by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be +boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give +it firmness, after it is cleaned. Cod-fish, whiting, and haddock, are +far better if a little salted, and kept a day; and if the weather be not +very hot, they will be good for two days. + +220. WHEN FISH IS CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL, and a larger quantity is +purchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear +it should be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it may be +fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish, +having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strong +salt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, +it may be scalded in salt and water, and afterwards dried and dressed. + +221. FISH SHOULD BE PUT INTO COLD WATER, and set on the fire to do very +gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless +the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor +should water, either hot or cold, be poured _on_ to the fish, as it is +liable to break the skin: if it should be necessary to add a little +water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the +side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish +be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. It +should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become +woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep +hot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losing +its colour. + +222. IN GARNISHING FISH, great attention is required, and plenty of +parsley, horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be +used, it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When +the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from +the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken +up with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more +appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some +instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be +distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will be +appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing. + +223. IF FISH IS TO BE FRIED OR BROILED, it must be dried in a nice soft +cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it over +with egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a +second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much the +better. If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper +must be placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease. It +must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. +Butter gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are most +frequently used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection. +The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a +sufficiency of this to cover it. + +224. WHEN FISH IS BROILED, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a +very clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of +suet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very +clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may +not be scorched. + +225. IN CHOOSING FISH, it is well to remember that it is possible it may +be _fresh_, and yet not _good_. Under the head of each particular fish +in this work, are appended rules for its choice and the months when it +is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to +have the fish good; as if this important course in a dinner does not +give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +FISH. + +[_Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of Fish, +inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one +day, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish--a turbot +for instance--which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings, +will, to-morrow, be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as +many pounds. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appended +to each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for the +different kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon an average, +and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality._ + +GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH.--_A proof of freshness and goodness in +most fishes, is their being covered with scales; for, if deficient in +this respect, it is a sign of their being stale, or having been +ill-used._] + +FRIED ANCHOVIES. + +226. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine, +sufficient flour to thicken; 12 anchovies. + +_Mode_.--Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to make +them into a thickish paste; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip them +in the paste, and fry of a nice brown colour. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 9d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. + +[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY.] + + THE ANCHOVY.--In his book of "British Fishes," Mr. Yarrell + states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean, + from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and + Romans, by whom the liquor prepared from it, called _garum_, was + in great estimation. Its extreme range is extended into the + Black Sea. The fishing for them is carried on during the night, + and lights are used with the nets. The anchovy is common on the + coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have no + doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been taken on the + Hampshire coast, and in the Bristol Channel." Other fish, of + inferior quality, but resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are + frequently sold for it, and passed off as genuine. + +ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE. + +227. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. of fresh butter. + +_Mode_.--Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and pound +them in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with them, and rub +the whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for use, and +carefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes the colour +of anchovies, besides spoiling them. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. + + +POTTED ANCHOVIES. + +POTTED ANCHOVIES are made in the same way, by adding pounded mace, +cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. + + +ANCHOVY TOAST. + +228. INGREDIENTS.--Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very +savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No. +227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the paste +before laying it on the toast. + + ANCHOVY PASTE.--"When some delicate zest," says a work just + issued on the adulterations of trade, "is required to make the + plain English breakfast more palatable, many people are in the + habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These + fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully + corked down, and surrounded by a red-looking liquor, resembling + in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one shilling + only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are + what is termed potted, it implies that the fish have been + pounded into the consistency of a paste, and then placed in flat + pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This + paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an + excellent _bonne bouche_, which enables gentlemen at + wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto. + Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of + these preserved delicacies, that contains anything indicative of + anchovies, is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot, on + which the word itself is printed.... All the samples of anchovy + paste, analyzed by different medical men, have been found to be + highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole + Armenian." The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead + colour, and it is to make it a bright "handsome-looking sauce" + that this red earth is used. + +BARBEL. + +229. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, +nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2 +barbels, according to size. + +_Mode_--Boil the barbels in salt and water till done; pour off some of +the water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned above. +Simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and strain. Put in the fish; +heat it gradually; but do not let it boil, or it will be broken. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to November. + +[Illustration: THE BARBEL.] + + THE BARBEL,--This fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels + at its mouth; and, in England, is esteemed as one of the worst + of the fresh-water fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now, + a favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of fish. Others + would boil with it a piece of bacon, that it might have a + relish. It is to be met with from two to three or four feet + long, and is said to live to a great age. From Putney upwards, + in the Thames, some are found of large size; but they are valued + only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle. + +BRILL. + +230. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little +vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a +little lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set the fish in +sufficient cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in the above +proportions, and a little vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil; +simmer very gently till the fish is done, which will be in about 10 +minutes; but the time for boiling, of course, depends entirely on the +size of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, +parsley, horseradish, and a little lobster coral sprinkled over the +fish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table with +it. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, a small brill, 10 minutes; a large +brill, 15 to 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, from 4s. to 8s. + +_Seasonable_ from August to April. + +[Illustration: THE BRILL.] + + THE BRILL.--This fish resembles the sole, but is broader, and + when large, is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than + the turbot, whilst it is much cheaper. It is a fine fish, and is + abundant in the London market. + +TO CHOOSE BRILL.--The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be +of a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness. +If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good. + + +CODFISH. + +231. Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite +sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped, because, +when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The +latter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying; or it may be +salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when boiled +quite fresh, is watery; salting a little, renders it firmer. + +[Illustration: THE COD.] + + THE COD TRIBE.--The Jugular, characterized by bony gills, and + ventral fins before the pectoral ones, commences the second of + the Linnaean orders of fishes, and is a numerous tribe, + inhabiting only the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the + fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and the gill membrane has + seven rays. The body is oblong, and covered with deciduous + scales. The fins are all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are + unarmed. The ventral fins are slender, and terminate in a point. + Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and + other marine animals. + +COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. + +232. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 5 oz. of salt to +each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the +thick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, as +this very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with +sufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the +water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just +simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it in +at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the above +proportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, draw +it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take it +out and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, +horseradish, the roe and liver. (_See_ Coloured Plate C.) + +_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 an hour, more or less. _Average cost_, +from 3s. to 6s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Note_.--Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with +this. + +TO CHOOSE COD.--The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump +and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and +when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts +about the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has been +twenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the cod +should be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and, although the cod is +not firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing the +finger into the flesh. If this rises immediately, the fish is good; if +not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness is, if the fish, when it +is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver side of a round of +beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked. +Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness, +though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting +signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so +strongly recommended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generally +caused by the fish having been knocked about at sea, in the well-boats, +in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market. + + +SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLED "SALT-FISH." + +233. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish. + +_Mode_.--Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a 1/4 pint +of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it is +perfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold +water to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, or +the fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and put +it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ in the spring. + +_Sufficient_ for each person, 1/4 lb. + +_Note_.--Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish on +Ash Wednesday. + + PRESERVING COD.--Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads + are cut off. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when + they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel, in beds of five + or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt to each + layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four + days, in order that the water may drain from them, they are + shifted into a different part of the vessel, and again salted. + Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are + sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the + greater convenience of carriage. + +COD SOUNDS. + +Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed before +dressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be +broiled, fried, or boiled: if they are boiled, mix a little milk with +the water. + + +COD SOUNDS, EN POULE. + +234. INGREDIENTS.--For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped +anchovies, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs; seasoning +of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds. + +_Mode_.--Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together. +Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 1/2 an hour; take +them out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll +them up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with lard, dredge with +flour, and cook them gently before the fire in a Dutch oven. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH.--These are the air or swimming bladders, + by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in + the water. In the Newfoundland fishery they are taken out + previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime and + salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up + in barrels; whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of + oil are extracted, this oil having been found possessed of the + most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases + of pulmonary affections. + +COD PIE. + +(_Economical_.) + +I. + +235. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficient +melted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish. + +_Mode_.--Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all the +skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (or +oyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes. +Bake for 1/2 an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + +II. + +236. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste; 1/2 a +teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 2 oz. of +butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (_see_ Pastry). For +sauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickening +of flour or butter; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste; 12 oysters. + +_Mode_.--Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in a +dish; season, and add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, and +bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing the +ingredients named above; give it one boil, and pour it into the pie by a +hole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by a +small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape--such as a +leaf, or otherwise. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Note_.--The remains of cold fish may be used for this pie. + + +CURRIED COD. + +237. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any cold +fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock, +thickening of butter and flour, 1 small teaspoonful of curry-powder, +1/4 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with the +butter and onions; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thickening, +and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the cream; put it, +with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; give one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 3s. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + THE FOOD OF THE COD.--This chiefly consists of the smaller + species of the scaly tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their + voracity is very great, and they will bite at any small body + they see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are + frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a + great size, but their usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs. + +COD A LA CREME. + +238. INGREDIENTS.--1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped +shalot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 teacupful of white stock, 1/4 pint +of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste, +1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. + +_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes; put the +butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them boil for +5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it the milk +or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and sugar, and, when +liked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the sauce to warm +gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished with +croutons. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream, 2s. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +_Note_.--The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for +this dish. + + +COD A LA BECHAMEL. + +239. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of bechamel +(_see_ Sauces), 2 oz. butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt; +fried bread, a few bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Flake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone; put the +bechamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the fire till +the latter is melted; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it well +with the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish, lay in the +fish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Brown +either before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toasted +bread cut in fanciful shapes. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fish, 6d. + + THE HABITAT OF THE COD.--This fish is found only in the seas of + the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45 deg. + and 66 deg.. Its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of Newfoundland, + Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places are its + favourite resorts; for there it is able to obtain great + quantities of worms, a food peculiarly grateful to it. Another + cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on + account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to + spawn. Few are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never + reach so far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are taken + on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the Orkneys, + which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the + principal fisheries. The London market is supplied by those + taken between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the + east coast of England. + +COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. + +240. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. of butter, a little chopped +shalot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, +or rather less, when the flavour is not liked; the juice of 1/4 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is still +better, flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into a +stewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the +butter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like oil. +When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice, and +serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.; with remains of cold fish, +5d. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Note_.--Cod that has been left will do for this. + + THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD.--The best season for catching cod is + from the beginning of February to the end of April; and although + each fisherman engaged in taking them, catches no more than one + at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a + day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of + the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate. + +COD A L'ITALIENNE. + +241. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of ham +minced very fine, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; when liked, 1/2 +teacupful of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a +little lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. + +_Mode_.--Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the stock, +and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good, add cream +in the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve; season it, +and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, take +out the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish without breaking, +and pour the sauce over it. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d., with fresh fish. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD.--In our preceding remarks on the + natural history of fishes, we have spoken of the amazing + fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we see one more instance + of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the + wants of man. So extensive has been the consumption of this + fish, that it is surprising that it has not long ago become + extinct; which would certainly have been the case, had it not + been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. "So early as + 1368," says Dr. Cloquet, "the inhabitants of Amsterdam had + dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first + quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went + out to the cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10,000 + vessels, of all nations, are employed in this trade, and bring + into the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and + dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made + among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great + deep, and take into account the destruction to which the young + are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas, + besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it + becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them + are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless + supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that + the female can every year give birth to more than 9,000,000 at a + time." + +BAKED CARP. + +242. INGREDIENTS--1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter, 1/2 +pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onions +sliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice +of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat, after thoroughly +cleansing it, and sew it up to prevent the stuffing from falling out. +Rub it over with an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, lay it in a +deep earthen dish, and drop the butter, oiled, over the bread crumbs. +Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, and bake +for 1 hour. Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt it, and dredge in +sufficient flour to dry it up; put in the strained liquor from the carp, +stir frequently, and when it has boiled, add the lemon-juice and +seasoning. Serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley and cut +lemon, and the sauce in a boat. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons. + +[Illustration: THE CARP.] + + THE CARP.--This species of fish inhabit the fresh waters, where + they feed on worms, insects, aquatic plants, small fish, clay, + or mould. Some of them are migratory. They have very small + mouths and no teeth, and the gill membrane has three rays. The + body is smooth, and generally whitish. The carp both grows and + increases very fast, and is accounted the most valuable of all + fish for the stocking of ponds. It has been pronounced the queen + of river-fish, and was first introduced to this country about + three hundred years ago. Of its sound, or air-bladder, a kind of + glue is made, and a green paint of its gall. + +STEWED CARP. + +243. INGREDIENTS.--1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves, 12 +peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 1/4 pint of port wine, the juice of 1/2 +lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs. + +_Mode_.--Scale the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very large, divide it; +lay it in the stewpan, after having rubbed a little salt on it, and put +in sufficient stock to cover it; add the herbs, onions, and spices, and +stew gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should it be very large. Dish up +the fish with great care, strain the liquor, and add to it the port +wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; give one boil, pour it over the fish, +and serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons. + +_Note_.--This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and +butter. Chub and Char may be cooked in the same manner as the above, as +also Dace and Roach. + + THE AGE OF CARP.--This fish has been found to live 150 years. + The pond in the garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, contained + one that had lived there 70 years, and Gesner mentions an + instance of one 100 years old. They are, besides, capable of + being tamed. Dr. Smith, in his "Tour on the Continent," says, in + reference to the prince of Conde's seat at Chantilly, "The most + pleasing things about it were the immense shoals of very large + carp, silvered over with age, like silver-fish, and perfectly + tame; so that, when any passengers approached their watery + habitation, they used to come to the shore in such numbers as to + heave each other out of the water, begging for bread, of which a + quantity was always kept at hand, on purpose to feed them. They + would even allow themselves to be handled." + +[Illustration: THE CHUB.] + +[Illustration: THE CHAR.] + + THE CHUB.--This fish takes its name from its head, not only in + England, but in other countries. It is a river-fish, and + resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. Its flesh is not in + much esteem, being coarse, and, when out of season, full of + small hairy bones. The head and throat are the best parts. The + roe is also good. + + THE CHAR.--This is one of the most delicious of fish, being + esteemed by some superior to the salmon. It is an inhabitant of + the deep lakes of mountainous countries. Its flesh is rich and + red, and full of fat. The largest and best kind is found in the + lakes of Westmoreland, and, as it is considered a rarity, it is + often potted and preserved. + + THE DACE, OR DARE.--This fish is gregarious, and is seldom above + ten inches long; although, according to Linnaeus, it grows a + foot and a half in length. Its haunts are in deep water, near + piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, over gravelly, + sandy, or clayey bottoms; deep holes that are shaded, water-lily + leaves, and under the foam caused by an eddy. In the warm months + they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near to streams. + They are in season about the end of April, and gradually improve + till February, when they attain their highest condition. In that + month, when just taken, scotched (crimped), and broiled, they + are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring. + + THE ROACH.--This fish is found throughout Europe, and the + western parts of Asia, in deep still rivers, of which it is an + inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight, + and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in + England, and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb, + "as sound as a roach," is derived from the French name of this + fish being _roche_, which also means rock. + +[Illustration: THE DACE.] + +[Illustration: THE ROACH.] + +TO DRESS CRAB. + +244. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil; +salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste. + +_Mode_.--Empty the shells, and thoroughly mix the meat with the above +ingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of cut +lemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when it is much +liked. (See Coloured Plate I.) + +_Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s. + +_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +TO CHOOSE CRAB.--The middle-sized crab is the best; and the crab, like +the lobster, should be judged by its weight; for if light, it is watery. + + +HOT CRAB. + +245. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. of +butter, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from the +shells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter in +small pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altogether, put +the whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or with a +salamander. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s. + +_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +[Illustration: THE CRAB.] + + THE CRAB TRIBE.--The whole of this tribe of animals have the + body covered with a hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly + in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh waters, and a few live + upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants, + small fish, molluscae, or dead bodies. The _black-clawed_ + species is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India, + and is the same that is introduced to our tables, being much + more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the tribe. + The most remarkable feature in their history, is the changing of + their shells, and the reproduction of their broken claws. The + former occurs once a year, usually between Christmas and Easter, + when the crabs retire to cavities in the rocks, or conceal + themselves under great stones. Fishermen say that they will live + confined in a pot or basket for several months together, without + any other food than what is collected from the sea-water; and + that, even in this situation, they will not decrease in weight. + The _hermit_ crab is another of the species, and has the + peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some + other animal, as it has none of its own. This circumstance was + known to the ancients, and is alluded to in the following lines + from Oppian:-- + The hermit fish, unarm'd by Nature, left + Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft. + Fearful they stroll, and look with panting wish + For the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish; + Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore, + Whose first and rightful owners are no more. + They make glad seizure of the vacant room, + And count the borrow'd shell their native home; + Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case, + And boldly herd with the crustaceous race. + +CRAYFISH. + +246. Crayfish should be thrown into boiling water, to which has been +added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done, which +will be in 1/4 hour, take them out and drain them. Let them cool, +arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with plenty of double parsley. + +_Note_.--This fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey, +boiled fowl, calf's head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled fish. + + +POTTED CRAYFISH. + +247. INGREDIENTS.--100 crayfish; pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, +2 oz. butter. + +_Mode_.--Boil the fish in salt and water; pick out all the meat and +pound it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, add the butter +gradually, and mix in the spice and seasoning. Put it in small pots, and +pour over it clarified butter, carefully excluding the air. + +_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the crayfish. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + +JOHN DORY. + +248. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, +is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, +but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay it +in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the above +proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for 1/4 +hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot +napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or +shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to size. + +_Average cost_, 3s. to 5s. _Seasonable_ all the year, but best from +September to January. + +_Note_.--Small John Dorie are very good, baked. + +[Illustration: THE JOHN DORY.] + + THE DORU, or JOHN DORY.--This fish is of a yellowish golden + colour, and is, in general, rare, although it is sometimes taken + in abundance on the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly + esteemed for the table, and its flesh, when dressed, is of a + beautiful clear white. When fresh caught, it is tough, and, + being a ground fish, it is not the worse for being kept two, or + even three days before it is cooked. + +BOILED EELS. + + +249. INGREDIENTS.--4 small eels, sufficient water to cover them; a large +bunch of parsley. + +_Mode_.--Choose small eels for boiling; put them in a stewpan with the +parsley, and just sufficient water to cover them; simmer till tender. +Take them out, pour a little parsley and butter over them, and serve +some in a tureen. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +[Illustration: THE EEL.] + + THE EEL TRIBE.--The Apodal, or bony-gilled and ventral-finned + fish, of which the eel forms the first Linnaean tribe, in their + general aspect and manners, approach, in some instances, very + nearly to serpents. They have a smooth head and slippery skin, + are in general naked, or covered with such small, soft, and + distant scales, as are scarcely visible. Their bodies are long + and slender, and they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal + substances. There are about nine species of them, mostly found + in the seas. One of them frequents our fresh waters, and three + of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores. + +STEWED EELS. + +I. + +250. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock, No. 104, +1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or Madeira, 3 +tablespoonfuls of cream; thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon-juice to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 3 inches +long; pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan; pour over the +stock, add the onion stuck with cloves, the lemon-peel, and the wine. +Stew gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and lift them carefully on a +dish, which keep hot. Strain the gravy, stir to the cream sufficient +flour to thicken; mix altogether, boil for 2 minutes, and add the +cayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the eels and serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + THE COMMON EEL.--This fish is known frequently to quit its + native element, and to set off on a wandering expedition in the + night, or just about the close of clay, over the meadows, in + search of snails and other prey. It also, sometimes, betakes + itself to isolated ponds, apparently for no other pleasure than + that which may be supposed to be found in a change of + habitation. This, of course, accounts for eels being found in + waters which were never suspected to contain them. This rambling + disposition in the eel has been long known to naturalists, and, + from the following lines, it seems to have been known to the + ancients:-- + + "Thus the mail'd tortoise, and the wand'ring; eel, + Oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal." + +II. + +251. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of middling-sized eels, 1 pint of medium +stock, No. 105, 1/4 pint of port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste; +1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the juice of 1/2 a lemon. + +_Mode_.--Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly; cut them into pieces +3 inches long, and put them into strong salt and water for 1 hour; dry +them well with a cloth, and fry them brown. Put the stock on with the +heads and tails of the eels, and simmer for 1/2 hour; strain it, and add +all the other ingredients. Put in the eels, and stew gently for 1/2 +hour, when serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + +FRIED EELS. + +252. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Wash the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches long, trim and +wipe them very dry; dredge with flour, rub them over with egg, and cover +with bread crumbs; fry of a nice brown in hot lard. If the eels are +small, curl them round, instead of cutting them up. Garnish with fried +parsley. + +_Time_.--20 minutes, or rather less. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + +_Note_.--Garfish may be dressed like eels, and either broiled or baked. + + THE PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE EEL.--"Having occasion," says Dr. + Anderson, in the _Bee_, "to be once on a visit to a friend's + house on Dee-side, in Aberdeenshire, I frequently delighted to + walk by the banks of the river. I, one day, observed something + like a black string moving along the edge of the water where it + was quite shallow. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that + this was a shoal of young eels, so closely joined together as to + appear, on a superficial view, on continued body, moving briskly + up against the stream. To avoid the retardment they experienced + from the force of the current, they kept close along the water's + edge the whole of the way, following all the bendings and + sinuosities of the river. Where they were embayed, and in still + water, the shoal dilated in breadth, so as to be sometimes + nearly a foot broad; but when they turned a cape, where the + current was strong, they were forced to occupy less space and + press close to the shore, struggling very hard till they passed + it. This shoal continued to move on, night and day without + interruption for several weeks. Their progress might be at the + rate of about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch the animals, + though they were very active and nimble. They were eels + perfectly well formed in every respect, but not exceeding two + inches in length. I conceive that the shoal did not contain, on + an average, less than from twelve to twenty in breadth; so that + the number that passed, on the whole, must have been very great. + Whence they came or whither they went, I know not; but the place + where I saw this, was six miles from the sea." + +EEL PIE. + +253. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1 shalot; +grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of 1/2 a lemon, small +quantity of forcemeat, 1/4 pint of bechamel (see Sauces); puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long, and +line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the eels, and +sprinkle them with the parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning, and +lemon-juice, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for 1 hour, or rather more; +make the bechamel hot, and pour it into the pie. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + +COLLARED EEL. + +254. INGREDIENTS.--1 large eel; pepper and salt to taste; 2 blades of +mace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 leaves of sage, +and a small bunch of herbs minced very small. + +_Mode_.--Bone the eel and skin it; split it, and sprinkle it over with +the ingredients, taking care that the spices are very finely pounded, +and the herbs chopped very small. Roll it up and bind with a broad piece +of tape, and boil it in water, mixed with a little salt and vinegar, +till tender. It may either be served whole or cut in slices; and when +cold, the eel should be kept in the liquor it was boiled in, but with a +little more vinegar put to it. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + HAUNTS OF THE EEL.--These are usually in mud, among weeds, under + roots or stumps of trees, or in holes in the banks or the + bottoms of rivers. Here they often grow to an enormous size, + sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They + seldom come forth from their hiding-places except in the night; + and, in winter, bury themselves deep in the mud, on account of + their great susceptibility of cold. + +EELS A LA TARTARE. + +255. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1 +glass of sherry; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread crumbs, 1 egg, +2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; cut up the carrot +and onion, and stir them over the fire for 5 minutes; dredge in a little +flour, add the wine and seasoning, and boil for 1/2 an hour. Skin and +wash the eels, cut them into pieces, put them to the other ingredients, +and simmer till tender. When they are done, take them out, let them get +cold, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice +brown. Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante over, and serve them hot. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the sauce +piquante. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + VORACITY OF THE EEL.--We find in a note upon Isaac Walton, by + Sir John Hawkins, that he knew of eels, when kept in ponds, + frequently destroying ducks. From a canal near his house at + Twickenham he himself missed many young ducks; and on draining, + in order to clean it, great numbers of large eels were caught in + the mud. When some of these were opened, there were found in + their stomachs the undigested heads of the quacking tribe which + had become their victims. + +EELS EN MATELOTE. + +256. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, when +obtainable; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 laurel-leaf, 1/2 pint +of port wine, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105; butter and flour to +thicken; 2 lbs. of eels. + +_Mode_.--Rub the stewpan with butter, dredge in a little flour, add the +onions cut very small, slightly brown them, and put in all the other +ingredients. Wash, and cut up the eels into pieces 3 inches long; put +them in the stewpan, and simmer for 1/2 hour. Make round the dish, a +border of croutons, or pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels in a +pyramid in the centre, and pour over the sauce. Serve very hot. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d. for this quantity. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + TENACITY OF LIFE IN THE EEL.--There is no fish so tenacious of + life as this. After it is skinned and cut in pieces, the parts + will continue to move for a considerable time, and no fish will + live so long out of water. + +[Illustration: THE LAMPREY.] + + THE LAMPREY.--With the Romans, this fish occupied a respectable + rank among the piscine tribes, and in Britain it has at various + periods stood high in public favour. It was the cause of the + death of Henry I. of England, who ate so much of them, that it + brought on an attack of indigestion, which carried him off. It + is an inhabitant of the sea, ascending rivers, principally about + the end of winter, and, after passing a few months in fresh + water, returning again to its oceanic residence. It is most in + season in March, April, and May, but is, by some, regarded as an + unwholesome food, although looked on by others as a great + delicacy. They are dressed as eels. + +FISH AND OYSTER PIE. + +257. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock; 2 +dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs sufficient for the +quantity of fish; 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of +finely-chopped parsley. + +_Mode_.--Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in a +pie-dish, which sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of bread +crumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dish +is quite full. You may form a covering either of bread crumbs, which +should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut into long strips, +and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of the paste first +laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some made melted +butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake. + +_Time_.--If made of cooked fish, 1/4 hour; if made of fresh fish and +puff-paste, 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Note_.--A nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish, adding +a few oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, and covering with mashed +potatoes; 1/4 hour will bake it. + + +FISH CAKE. + +258. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any cold fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot of +sweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal quantities +of bread crumbs and cold potatoes, 1/2 teaspoonful of parsley, 1 egg, +bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the bones of the fish, which latter put, +with the head and fins, into a stewpan with the water; add pepper and +salt, the onion and herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about 2 hours; chop +the fish fine, and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold potatoes, +adding the parsley and seasoning; make the whole into a cake with the +white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with bread crumbs, and +fry of a light brown; strain the gravy, pour it over, and stew gently +for 1/4 hour, stirring it carefully once or twice. Serve hot, and +garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. + +_Time_--1/2 hour, after the gravy is made. + + +BOILED FLOUNDERS. + +259. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the flounders, salt in the +proportion of 6 oz. to each gallon, a little vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Pat on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders, lay +in the fish, add salt and vinegar in the above proportions, and when it +boils, simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They must not boil fast, or +they will break. Serve with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 3d. each. + +_Seasonable_ from August to November. + +[Illustration: FLOUNDERS.] + + THE FLOUNDER.--This comes under the tribe usually denominated + Flat-fish, and is generally held in the smallest estimation of + any among them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and the + rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the English coasts it is + very abundant, and the London market consumes it in large + quantities. It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames + flounder is esteemed a delicate fish. + +FRIED FLOUNDERS. + +260. INGREDIENTS.--Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rub +them inside and out with salt, to render them firm; wash and wipe them +very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs; fry +them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crisped +parsley. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size. + +_Average cost_, 3d. each. + +_Seasonable_ from August to November. + +_Sufficient_, 1 for each person. + + +GUDGEONS. + +261. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of +fish; hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills and +inside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them into +egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. + +_Average cost_. Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from March to July. + +_Sufficient_, 3 for each person. + +[Illustration: THE GUDGEON.] + + THE GUDGEON.--This is a fresh-water fish, belonging to the carp + genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly + esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper, + served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and + is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England. + Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested. + +GURNET, or GURNARD. + +262. INGREDIENTS.--1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready +some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in, +and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy +sauce, should be served with it. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_. Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March, but in perfection in October. + +_Sufficient_, a middling sized one for 2 persons. + +_Note_.--This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked. + +[Illustration: THE GURNET.] + + THE GURNET.-"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced + gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long + known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and + is an excellent fish as food. + +BAKED HADDOCKS. + +263. INGREDIENTS.--A nice forcemeat (_see_ Forcemeats), butter to taste, +egg and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put in +a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg, +sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish +with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plain +melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can be +omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish. + +_Time_.--Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from August to February. + +_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards. + +_Note_.--Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread +crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley. + +[Illustration: THE HADDOCK.] + + THE HADDOCK.--This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives + on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an + inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter + the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side + of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which + superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and + thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish + of this species. + +BOILED HADDOCK. + +264. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt +to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, and +lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the above +proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, should +the fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in their +mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook +them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. + +_Time_.--Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less. + +_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards. + +_Seasonable_ from August to February. + + WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.--The haddock seldom grows to any great + size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three + pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are + esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three + feet long, when their flesh is coarse. + +DRIED HADDOCK. + +I. + +265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or +over a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just before +sending it to table. + + +II. + +266. INGREDIENTS.--1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of +savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper; +boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by +means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leaves +and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in the +steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put them +in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time, but best in winter. + + THE FINNAN HADDOCK.--This is the common haddock cured and dried, + and takes its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near + Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to + perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in + the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are + esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an + imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with + pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few + days. + +RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS. + +267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across +the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, +and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice +relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading +it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing. + + THE RED HERRING.--_Red_ herrings lie twenty-four hours in the + brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house + formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath + them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are + put into barrels for carriage. + +BAKED WHITE HERRINGS. + +268. INGREDIENTS.--12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2 +small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficient +vinegar to fill up the dish. + +_Mode_.--Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them in +a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer, +sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar, +and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herrings +may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again. +Sprats done in this way are very delicious. + +_Time_.--1/2 an hour. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each. + +TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.--The more scales this fish has, the surer the +sign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look; +but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some +time. + +[Illustration: THE HERRING.] + + THE HERRING.--The herring tribe are found in the greatest + abundance in the highest northern latitudes, where they find a + quiet retreat, and security from their numerous enemies. Here + they multiply beyond expression, and, in shoals, come forth from + their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep. In + June they are found about Shetland, whence they proceed down to + the Orkneys, where they divide, and surround the islands of + Great Britain and Ireland. The principal British + herring-fisheries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts; and the + fishing is always carried on by means of nets, which are usually + laid at night; for, if stretched by day, they are supposed to + frighten the fish away. The moment the herring is taken out of + the water it dies. Hence the origin of the common saying, "dead + as a herring." + +KEGEREE. + +269. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of +butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne +to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other +ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according +to the amount of fish used. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour after the rice is boiled. + +_Average cost_, 5d., exclusive of the fish. + + +TO BOIL LOBSTERS. + +270. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and +full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When the +shell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters are +the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the above +proportion; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20 +minutes to 3/4 hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skim +well. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done +enough, the spawn is not red: this must be obviated by great attention. +Hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe off +again. + +_Time_.--Small lobster, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; large ditto, 1/2 to 1/3 +hour. + +_Average cost_, medium size, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from March to October. + +TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS.--This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it +ought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently +raised, will return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thus +proving it; for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return; +when the fish might be pronounced inferior, which, in reality, may not +be the case. In order to be good, lobsters should be weighty for their +bulk; if light, they will be watery; and those of the medium size, are +always the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very well +for sauce. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of the shell will be much +improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on being +immediately taken from the pot. + +[Illustration: THE LOBSTER.] + + THE LOBSTER.--This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on + most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain. Some are caught with + the hand, but the larger number in pots, which serve all the + purposes of a trap, being made of osiers, and baited with + garbage. They are shaped like a wire mousetrap; so that when the + lobsters once enter them, they cannot get out again. They are + fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, and their place marked + by a buoy. The fish is very prolific, and deposits of its eggs + in the sand, where they are soon hatched. On the coast of + Norway, they are very abundant, and it is from there that the + English metropolis is mostly supplied. They are rather + indigestible, and, as a food, not so nurtritive as they are + generally supposed to be. + +HOT LOBSTER. + +271. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt, +pepper, and pounded mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butter +and seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs, and make the +whole mixture into the form of a lobster; pound the spawn, and sprinkle +over it. Bake 1/4 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tail +and body shell, with the small claws underneath, to resemble a lobster. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + +LOBSTER SALAD. + +272. INGREDIENTS.--1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad +(whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, +a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil and +vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne and +salt to taste; 3 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients should +be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce. + +_Mode_.--Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth. +Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightly +throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings from +the body of the lobster; pick the meat from the shell, cut it up into +nice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve for +garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs; +chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, and +afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on a +glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with +the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and +beetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches, so +that the colours contrast nicely. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from April to October; may be had all the year, but salad +is scarce and expensive in winter. + +_Note_.--A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad. + + THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER.--Like the others of its tribe, the + lobster annually casts its shell. Previously to its throwing off + the old one, it appears sick, languid, and restless, but in the + course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of + armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks + some lonely place, where it may lie undisturbed, and escape the + horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who + have the advantage of still being encased in their mail. + +LOBSTER (a la Mode Francaise). + +273. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 +tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; bread +crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small square +pieces; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add the +lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell, +which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste; cover it +with bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown before +the fire, or with a salamander. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER.--In its element, the lobster is able to + run with great speed upon its legs, or small claws, and, if + alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable distance, + "even," it is said, "with the swiftness of a bird flying." + Fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a + wonderful degree of swiftness. When frightened, they will take + their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves + upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves. + +LOBSTER CURRY (an Entree). + +274. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of +curry-powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice square +pieces; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in the +curry-powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in the +lobster; stew the whole slowly for 1/2 hour, and stir occasionally; and +just before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice +with it, the same as for other curries. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree). + +275. INGREDIENTS.--1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, 1/2 +saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white +pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar with the +butter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well mixing the +ingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of the spawn; +divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape them like +cutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over with egg, and +sprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of the small claw in +the top of each; fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drain +them before the fire, on a sieve reversed; arrange them nicely on a +dish, and pour bechamel in the middle, but not over the cutlets. + +_Time_.--About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made. + +_Average cost_ for this dish, 2s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + ANCIENT MODE OF COOKING THE LOBSTER.--When this fish was to be + served for the table, among the ancients, it was opened + lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and + pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked, + whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with + which the flesh had become impregnated. + +TO DRESS LOBSTERS. + +276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil, +which wipe off again; separate the body from the tail, break off the +great claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat; +split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with the +body upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. (_See_ Coloured +Plate, H.) + + +LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree). + +277. INGREDIENTS.--Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of bechamel, 6 drops +of anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a small +piece of bread: cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake of a +light colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the meat very +fine, and add the above ingredients; stir it over the fire for 6 +minutes; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fill +with the mixture, and replace the covers. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER.--It is said that the attachment + of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a + circumstance celebrated in the following lines:-- + + "Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize, + And foreign shores and seas unknown despise. + Though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel, + And force the captive from his native cell, + He will, if freed, return with anxious care, + Find the known rock, and to his home repair; + No novel customs learns in different seas, + But wonted food and home-taught manners please." + +POTTED LOBSTER. + +278. INGREDIENTS.--2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg, pounded +mace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay-leaves. + +_Mode_.--Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut it +up. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster as +evenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Cover +with butter, and bake for 3/4 hour in a gentle oven. When done, drain +the whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the +seasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and, if +very highly seasoned, it will keep some time. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Potted lobster may be used cold, or as _fricassee_ with cream +sauce. + + How the Lobster Feeds.--The pincers of the lobster's large claws + are furnished with nobs, and those of the other, are always + serrated. With the former, it keeps firm hold of the stalks of + submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces its + food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is + called by fishermen, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on + the left, indifferently. + +BAKED MACKEREL. + +279. INGREDIENTS.--4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat +(_see_ Forcemeats), 3 oz. of butter; pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat, +and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails +alternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some little +pieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and either +serve with plain melted butter or a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Note_.--Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings +(_see_ No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine. + + WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.--The greatest weight of this fish seldom + exceeds 2 lbs., whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and + 20 inches. They die almost immediately after they are taken from + their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric + light. + +BOILED MACKEREL. + +280. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the +kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring it +gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them on +a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel. +Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to +boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it. +(_See_ Coloured Plate, F.) + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allow +more time. + +_Average cost_, from 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + +_Note_.--When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour +over parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen. + + +BROILED MACKEREL. + +281. INGREDIENTS.--Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil. + +_Mode_.--Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, +but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills and +insides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil +it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. +When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, which +will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop a little parsley, +work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeeze +of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quite +melted, with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce in a tureen. + +_Time_.--Small mackerel 15 minutes. _Average cost_, from 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + +[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.] + + THE MACKEREL.--This is not only one of the most + elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured + fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have. Death, in some + degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does + not entirely obliterate them. It visits the shores of Great + Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the + Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton + in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the + beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but + the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England. + +TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.--In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a +great extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If it +have a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be red +about the head, it is stale. + + +FILLETS OF MACKEREL. + +282. INGREDIENTS.--2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch of +chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3 +tablespoonfuls of bechamel (_see_ Sauces); salt, cayenne, and +lemon-juice to taste. + +_Mode_.--Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine, +and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in the +mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and put +them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients, +give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Note_.--Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs, +and fried of a nice brown. Serve with _maitre d'hotel_ sauce and plain +melted butter. + + THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.--The voracity of this fish is very + great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in + attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to + have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a + sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the + coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was + suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few + minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers + of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades + hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck + the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so + severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired. + +PICKLED MACKEREL. + +283. INGREDIENTS.--12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4 +mackerel. + +_Mode_.--Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in a +dish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar, +peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pour +over the fish. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + + MACKEREL GARUM.--This brine, so greatly esteemed by the + ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes. When + mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small + vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and + then left to settle for some hours. On the following day, this + was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in + a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or + three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added + to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture. + +GREY MULLET. + +284. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water, and +gradually brought to a boil; if small, put it in boiling water, salted +in the above proportion. Serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted +butter. + +_Time_.--According to size, 1/4 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from July to October. + +[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET.] + + THE GREY MULLET.--This is quite a different fish from the red + mullet, is abundant on the sandy coasts of Great Britain, and + ascends rivers for miles. On the south coast it is very + plentiful, and is considered a fine fish. It improves more than + any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds. + +RED MULLET. + +285. INGREDIENTS.--Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour, 1/2 +teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Clean the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, fold +in oiled paper, and bake them gently. When done, take the liquor that +flows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour; put +in the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve the sauce +in a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper cases. + +_Time_.--About 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but more plentiful in summer. + +_Note_.--Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper, +the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt. +They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted +_butter_, Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled. + +[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.] + + THE STRIPED RED MULLET.--This fish was very highly esteemed by + the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most + extravagant prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. weight were valued at + about L15 each; those of 4 lbs. at L60, and, in the reign of + Tiberius, three of them were sold for L209. To witness the + changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies, + was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid + for one of these fishes. It frequents our Cornish and Sussex + coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and + well flavoured. + +FRIED OYSTERS. + +286. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of +ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped +parsley. + +_Mode_.--Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain +them; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; lay +them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and +parsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.] + + THE EDIBLE OYSTER:--This shell-fish is almost universally + distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes, and they + especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain. The + coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Essex + and Suffolk. Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an + iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat + over the beds. As soon as taken from their native beds, they are + stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices, + through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to + flow. This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm + weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the + same tinge, which increases their value in the market. They do + not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale + till the end of six or eight weeks. Oysters are not considered + proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old; + so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, + till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards. + +SCALLOPED OYSTERS. + +I. + +287. INGREDIENTS.--Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. butter, flour, 2 +tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and +salt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled butter. + +_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard +them, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. of batter into a +stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the +stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the oysters +and seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil. Have ready +the scallop-shells buttered; lay in the oysters, and as much of the +liquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over which +drop a little oiled butter. Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, +and serve quickly, and very hot. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + +II. + +Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a +scallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few +bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces of +butter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient +bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters should +not be seen. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 2d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + +STEWED OYSTERS. + +288. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/3 pint +of cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard +them, and strain the liquor; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in +sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stir +it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, add +the cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, +but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve on a hot dish, and +garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. A small piece of +lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the cream +is added, will be found an improvement. + +_Time_.--Altogether 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + + THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.--The oyster is described as a + bivalve shell-fish, having the valves generally unequal. The + hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval + cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a + similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops + have been classified as one tribe; but they differ very + essentially both in their external appearance and their habits. + Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to + roots of trees on the shore; while the scallops are always + detached, and usually lurk in the sand. + +OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree). + +289. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of +cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut each +one into 3 pieces. Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient +flour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the other +ingredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but not +boil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No. +277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers. + +_Time_.--2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s. 1d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + THE OYSTER FISHERY.--The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed + of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of + Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to + take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the + cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the + bed for the future. After this month, it is felony to carry away + the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between + the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle. + +TO KEEP OYSTERS. + +290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let them +remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to stand +for another 12 hours without water. If left without water every +alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept in +it. Never put the same water twice to them. + + +OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER. + +291. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, +sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when +liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them +on a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the +flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and +put the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan, +put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with a +sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. Fried oysters are +frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbs +should be added to the flour. + +_Time_.--5 or 6 minutes. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + + EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER.--The French assert that the + English oysters, which are esteemed the best in Europe, were + originally procured from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; but they + assign no proof for this. It is a fact, however, that the + oysters eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel + which then parted the Isle of Thanet from England, and which has + since been filled up, and converted into meadows. + +BOILED PERCH. + +292. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Scale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly; lay +it in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. +If the fish is very large, longer time must be allowed. Garnish with +parsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce. Perch do +not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any other +way. + +_Time_.--Middling-sized perch, 1/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from September to November. + +_Note_.--Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the same +sauces. + +[Illustration: THE PERCH.] + + THE PERCH.--This is one of the best, as it is one of the most + common, of our fresh-water fishes, and is found in nearly all + the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through + the whole of Europe within the temperate zone. It is extremely + voracious, and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious, which + is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey. The + best season to angle for it is from the beginning of May to the + middle of July. Large numbers of this fish are bred in the + Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well + supplied with running water and with plenty of food; yet they + rarely attain a large size. In the Regent's Park they are also + very numerous; but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a + pound. + +FRIED PERCH. + +293. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and cover +with bread crumbs. Have ready some boiling lard; put the fish in, and +fry a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from September to November. + +_Note_.--Fry tench in the same way. + + +PERCH STEWED WITH WINE. + +294. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1 +bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to +taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2 +teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. + +_Mode_.--Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean them +thoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry just +to cover them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt, +and simmer till tender. When done, take out the fish, strain the liquor, +add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, and the +anchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced, when +pour over the fish, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from September to November. + + +BOILED PIKE. + +295. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little +vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth by +means of a skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in the +salt and vinegar. The time for boiling depends, of course, on the size +of the fish; but a middling-sized pike will take about 1/2 an hour. +Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 to 1 hour.--_Average cost_. Seldom +bought. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +[Illustration: THE PIKE.] + + THE PIKE.--This fish is, on account of its voracity, termed the + freshwater shark, and is abundant in most of the European lakes, + especially those of the northern parts. It grows to an immense + size, some attaining to the measure of eight feet, in Lapland + and Russia. The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland, vary + in the kinds of fish they produce; some affording trout, others + pike; and so on. Where these happen to be together, however, the + trout soon becomes extinct. "Within a short distance of + Castlebar," says a writer on sports, "there is a small bog-lake + called Derreens. Ten years ago it was celebrated for its + numerous well-sized trouts. Accidentally pike effected a passage + into the lake from the Minola river, and now the trouts are + extinct, or, at least, none of them are caught or seen. Previous + to the intrusion of the pikes, half a dozen trouts would be + killed in an evening in Derreens, whose collective weight often + amounted to twenty pounds." As an eating fish, the pike is in + general dry. + +BAKED PIKE. + +296. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (_see_ +Forcemeats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. butter. + +_Mode_.--Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash, and wipe it +thoroughly dry; stuff it with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten the tail +in the mouth by means of a skewer; brush it over with egg, sprinkle with +bread crumbs, and baste with butter, before putting it in the oven, +which must be well heated. When the pike is of a nice brown colour, +cover it with buttered paper, as the outside would become too dry. If 2 +are dressed, a little variety may be made by making one of them green +with a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs. Serve anchovy +or Dutch sauce, and plain melted butter with it. + +_Time_.--According to size, 1 hour, more or less. + +_Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Note_.--Pike _a la genevese_ may be stewed in the same manner as salmon +_a la genevese_. + + +FRIED PLAICE. + +297.--INGREDIENTS.--Hot lard, or clarified dripping; egg and bread +crumbs. + +_Mode_.--This fish is fried in the same manner as soles. Wash and wipe +them thoroughly dry, and let them remain in a cloth until it is time to +dress them. Brush them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs mixed +with a little flour. Fry of a nice brown in hot dripping or lard, and +garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. Send them to table with +shrimp-sauce and plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, 3d. each. + +_Seasonable_ from May to November. + +_Sufficient_, 4 plaice for 4 persons. + +_Note_.--Plaice may be boiled plain, and served with melted butter. +Garnish with parsley and cut lemon. + + +STEWED PLAICE. + +298. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, 1/2 oz. ground ginger, 1 +pint of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, salt them, and +let them remain 1/4 hour. Slice and fry the onions a light brown; put +them in a stewpan, on the top of which put the fish without washing, and +add the ginger, lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly for 1/2 hour, and do +not let the fish boil, or it will break. Take it out, and when the +liquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs; simmer till it thickens, when +pour over the fish, and serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from May to November. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons; according to size. + +[Illustration: THE PLAICE.] + + THE PLAICE.--This fish is found both in the Baltic and the + Mediterranean, and is also abundant on the coast of England. It + keeps well, and, like all ground-fish, is very tenacious of + life. Its flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is a + low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the poor. The best + brought to the London market are called _Dowers plaice_, from + their being caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and + Folkstone. + +TO BOIL PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS. + +299. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the tail; +much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked. +Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boiling +for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; but +less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by +their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not +over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible. + +_Time_.--Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_, prawns, 2s. per lb.; shrimps, 6d. per pint. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + +TO DRESS PRAWNS. + +300. Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, and over that lay a small +white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid, and +garnish with plenty of parsley. + + +BOILED SALMON. + +301. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water,--sufficient +water to cover the fish. + +_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, and be particular that no blood is +left inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to +cover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to a +boil, take off all the scum, and let it simmer gently till the fish is +done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. +Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish; +but it is especially to be remembered, that it should never be +underdressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remain +in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render it +insipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few +minutes, keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a +hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster or +shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of +dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish. + +_Time_.--8 minutes to each lb. for large thick salmon; 6 minutes for +thin fish. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 3d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from April to August. + +_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb., or rather less, for each person. + +_Note_.--Cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish; and a +little of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a +most agreeable addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, +considered especially adapted to be served with salmon. + +TO CHOOSE SALMON.--To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, which +may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. The +circumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing +rule in most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to +be relied on, as this quality can be easily given them by art. + + +SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE. + +302. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. batter, 1/2 teaspoonful +of chopped parsley, 1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter over +it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning +into the fish; baste it frequently; when done, take it out and drain for +a minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. +Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from April to August. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON.--The instinct with which the + salmon revisits its native river, is one of the most curious + circumstances in its natural history. As the swallow returns + annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to deposit + its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M. + De Lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail, and found + that, for three successive seasons, it returned to the same + place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings have been + attached by eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a + communication existed between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian + and Northern Seas, and that the experiment succeeded. + +COLLARED SALMON. + +303. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs., a high seasoning of +salt, pounded mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves. + +_Mode_.--Split the fish; scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly clean; wipe +it, and rub in the seasoning inside and out; roll it up, and bind +firmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (1/3 +vinegar, in proportion to the water); add the bay-leaves and a good +seasoning of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do not remove +the lid. Serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce. For preserving the +collared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and add a +little more vinegar. Pour over when cold. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour, or rather more. + + HABITAT OF THE SALMON.--The salmon is styled by Walton the "king + of fresh-water fish," and is found distributed over the north of + Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamschatka, but is never found + in warm latitudes, nor has it ever been caught even so far south + as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as in salt + waters, depositing its spawn in the former, hundreds of miles + from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been + known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce + this fish into the Australian colonies; and it is believed that + the attempt, after many difficulties, which were very skilfully + overcome, has been successful. + +CRIMPED SALMON. + +304. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionable +tables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick. +Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour; have ready some boiling +water, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed; put in the fish, +and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather more; should it be very thick, +garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the same sauces. + + +_Time_.--1/4 hour, more or less, according to size. + +_Note_.--Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the taste and +colour of the fish. + +[Illustration: THE SALMON.] + + THE SALMON TRIBE.--This is the Abdominal fish, forming the + fourth of the orders of Linnaeus. They are distinguished from + the other fishes by having two dorsal fins, of which the + hindmost is fleshy and without rays. They have teeth both on the + tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round + and minutely striated scales. + +CURRIED SALMON. + +305. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong or +medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 +teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of +butter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the onions into small pieces, and fry them of a pale +brown in the butter; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and simmer +gently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the contents; cut +the salmon into small square pieces, carefully take away all skin and +bone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; but do +not allow it to boil long. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 9d. + + GROWTH OF THE SALMON.--At the latter end of the year--some as + soon as November--salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as + they can reach, in order to deposit their spawn, which they do + in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies + buried till the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it + begins to exclude the young, which gradually increase to four or + five inches in length, and are then termed smelts or smouts. + About the beginning of May, the river seems to be alive with + them, and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without + having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, comes, and + hurries them to the "great deep;" whence, about the middle of + June, they commence their return to the river again. By this + time they are twelve or sixteen inches long, and progressively + increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July, + when they have become large enough to be denominated _grilse_. + Early in August they become fewer in numbers, but of greater + size, haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds. + This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the + remark of Walton, that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short + a time as a gosling becomes a goose." Recent writers have, + however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the + salmon. + +SALMON CUTLETS. + +306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt; +butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with +their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with +anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few +chopped herbs and a little spice. + +_Time_.--5 to 10 minutes. + +SALMON A LA GENEVESE. + +307. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a little +parsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace, +pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, 1/2 pint of white +stock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful of +essence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in the +shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning; stir them for +10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; simmer +gently for 1/2 hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish, which +stew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked, take +away all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and put +it into another stewpan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour, +and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt; lay the salmon +on a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve the remainder +in a tureen. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + +PICKLED SALMON. + +308. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole +allspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of +vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled. + +_Mode_.--After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with a +cover to it, as it should be excluded from the air, and take away the +bone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10 +minutes, and let it stand to get cold; pour it over the salmon, and in +12 hours this will be fit for the table. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + + TO CURE SALMON.--This process consists in splitting the fish, + rubbing it with salt, and then putting it into pickle in tubs + provided for the purpose. Here it is kept for about six weeks, + when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers + of salt. + +POTTED SALMON. + +309. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3 +bay-leaves, 1/4 lb. butter. + +_Mode_.--Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth +(water would spoil it); cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt; +let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with +the other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain them from the +gravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour over it clarified +butter. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + + AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON.--The salmon is said to have an + aversion to anything red; hence, fishermen engaged in catching + it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour. Pontoppidan also + says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens + to be thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes + them. The remedy adopted for this in Norway, is to throw into + the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon, when in + perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our + fish. + +BAKED SEA-BREAM. + +310. INGREDIENTS.--1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and +cayenne; 1/4 lb. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe +away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out with +salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the +butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than +1/2 an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great +improvement. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 an hour. + +_Seasonable_ in summer. + +[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM.] + +_Note_.--This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served +with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine. + + THE SEA-BREAM.--This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is + frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the + summer months, but it is not in much esteem. + + MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE. + + "When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but + none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should + be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a + little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole + skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle + beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside + covering has retained, will be of good flavour." + +TO DRESS SHAD. + +311. INGREDIENTS.--1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt. + +_Mode_.--Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three +incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it +remain in oil for 1/2 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, +and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French, +and by them is considered excellent. + +_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour. + +_Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from April to June. + +[Illustration: THE SHAD.] + + THE SHAD.--This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little + esteem. It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers + of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames. + +POTTED SHRIMPS. + +312. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 +blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the +other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the +butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold, +cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to soak in the butter. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 3d. + + +BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS. + +313. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stock +No. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the +stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently +for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted +sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy. + +_Time_.--3 minutes. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d. + +[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.] + + THE SHRIMP.--This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is + greatly relished in London as a delicacy. It inhabits most of + the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially + famous for them. + +BOILED SKATE. + +314. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with +sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it +simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve +with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce. + +_Time_.--According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per +lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to April. + + +CRIMPED SKATE. + +315. INGREDIENTS.--1/8 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie +round with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish, +and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot +napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never be +eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other +diseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to April. + +TO CHOOSE SKATE.--This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth, +and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, it +should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped +fish soon become sour. + +[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.] + + THE SKATE.--This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely + abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England. The flesh is + white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so + plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of + its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is + digested. It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is + usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true + skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is + destitute. It is taken in great abundance during the spring and + summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in + November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the + true skate. + +SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise) + +316. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of +salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of +parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover +the fish. + +_Mode_.--Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer the +skate in them till tender. When it is done, skin it neatly, and pour +over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it, put +it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latter +to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to April. + +_Note_.--Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and +butter. + + +SMALL SKATE FRIED. + +317. INGREDIENTS.--Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and +pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of +1/2 lemon, hot dripping. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar +to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice, +and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour. Then drain them +well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may be +served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too +fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day, +but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to April. + + OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.--Besides the true skate, there are + several other species found in our seas. These are known as the + _white_ skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which + are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true + skate. + +TO BAKE SMELTS. + +318. INGREDIENTS.--12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2 +blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them +nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and +place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15 +minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish +with fried parsley and cut lemon. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per dozen. + +_Seasonable_ from October to May. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +TO CHOOSE SMELTS.--When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, +and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after +death, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, +resembling that of a cucumber. + + THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.--This peculiarity in the smelt has been + compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by + others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and + formerly abounded in the Thames. The _Atharine_, or sand smelt, + is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish, + being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of + England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful. + +TO FRY SMELTS. + +319. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard. + +_Mode_.--Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is +necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in +egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into +boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off +the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry +them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter. +This fish is often used as a garnishing. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 2s. per dozen. + +_Seasonable_ from October to May. + +[Illustration: THE SMELT.] + + THE SMELT.--This is a delicate little fish, and is in high + esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety + confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very + rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in + November, December, and January. + +BAKED SOLES. + +320. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles, 1/4 lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs, +minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in +a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with +a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white +side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be +laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the +other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20 +minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the +wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it +_under_ the fish, and serve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +TO CHOOSE SOLES.--This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin +is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good. + +[Illustration: THE SOLE.] + + THE SOLE.--This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence + among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but + those of the western shores are much superior in size to those + taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and + frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm, + white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed. + +BOILED SOLES. + +321. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do +not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to +cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a +boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of +the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish +with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted +butter, are usually sent to table with this dish. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole. + +_Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_,--1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons. + + +SOLE OR COD PIE. + +322. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to +taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of +fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened +with flour, puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and +between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the +stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff +paste, and bake for 1/2 hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to +thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 10d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + +SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE. + +323. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; +the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream. + +_Mode_.--Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2 +pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a +boil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately +clean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very +gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice. +The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is +not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream +is required. + +_Time_.--10 minutes in the cream. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish. + + THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.--This fish was + much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light + and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond + and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the + general name of _passeres_, were all equally esteemed, and had + generally the same qualities attributed to them. + +FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE. + +324. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; +egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the +bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with white +of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a +baking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for +1/2 hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over +them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. + +WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very +delicious. + + THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE.--This, as a matter of course, greatly + depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the + animal feeds. Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish. + Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it + feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white, + or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the + black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the + coasts, are the best in flavour. + +FRICASSEED SOLES. + +325. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonful +of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated +bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint +of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327, +and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole, +chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and +seasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make +this into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a +dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice; +lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes; +serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the soles. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.--The instrument usually employed is a + trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to + eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty + feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the + vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a + great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches. If, + for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught + are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are + smothered, and sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed, + in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net, + and as many as possible preserved alive in it. + +FRIED FILLETED SOLES. + +326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more +easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash +the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it +into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, +after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with +twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and +cover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe, +and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is +desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they +look much better than when fried whole. (_See_ Coloured Plate A.) +Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and +arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_,--2 large soles for 6 persons. + + +FRIED SOLES. + +327. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified +dripping, egg, and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins, wipe +them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time to +dress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg; dredge the +soles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and cover with +bread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty of clarified dripping +or lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil is still better) +heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden. +When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn them carefully, and +brown them on the other: they may be considered ready when a thick smoke +rises. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a +reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat. Particular attention +should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy +fish: this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time, and +allowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp, and free from +greasy moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and +fried parsley, and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted +butter. + +_Time_.--10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + +SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS. + +328. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. +salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a +fish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring +them gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, which +will be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth, +put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (_See_ +Sauces.) + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + + +SPRATS. + +329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can be ascertained by +their bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by a +skewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on a +gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed with +suet. Serve very hot. + +_Time_,--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +TO CHOOSE SPRATS.--Choose these from their silvery appearance, as the +brighter they are, so are they the fresher. + + +SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER. + +330. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; seasoning of salt and +pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a batter made of the above +ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with fried +parsley. + +Sprats may be baked like herrings. (_See_ No. 268.) + + +DRIED SPRATS. + +331. Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water poured +over them; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be found a +much better way than boiling them. + +[Illustration: THE SPRAT.] + + THE SPRAT.--This migratory fish, is rarely found longer than + four or five inches, and visits the shores of Britain after the + herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from + them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very + abundant, and from 400 to 500 boats are employed in catching + them during the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying the + London market, they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to + farmers for manuring purposes. They enter the Thames about the + beginning of November, and leave it in March. At Yarmouth and + Gravesend they are cured like red herrings. + +BAKED STURGEON. + +332. INGREDIENTS.--1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small +bunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of +white wine. + +_Mode_,--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along the +belly without separating it; have ready a large baking-dish, in which +lay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced, +and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in small +pieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and baste +frequently; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy. + +_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +[Illustration: THE STURGEON.] + + THE STURGEON.--This fish commences the sixth of Linnaean order, + and all the species are large, seldom measuring, when + full-grown, less than three or four feet in length. Its flesh is + reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor + Severus, was so highly valued by the ancients, that it was + brought to table by servants crowned with coronets, and preceded + by a band of music. It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the + Mediterranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of the + Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It is + abundant in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally + taken in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is + one of those fishes considered as royal property. It is from its + _roe_ that _caviare_, a favourite food of the Russians, is + prepared. Its flesh is delicate, firm, and white, but is rare in + the London market, where it sells for 1s. or 1s. 6d. per lb. + + THE STERLET is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the + Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized + on account of the delicacy of its flesh. + +ROAST STURGEON. + +333. INGREDIENTS.--Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of a +sturgeon. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, bone and skin it; make a nice veal stuffing +(see Forcemeats), and fill it with the part where the bones came from; +roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet of +veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with good +brown gravy, or plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Note_.--Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The +fish is very firm, and requires long boiling. + + ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS.--By the ancients, the + flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the + immortals. The poet Martial passes a high eulogium upon it, and + assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine + Mount. If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people + of that country generally entirely abstain from it, and the + sovereign of the Celestial Empire confines it to his own + kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest + favourites. + +MATELOT OF TENCH. + +334. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1 +dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades of +mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot, +2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock No. 105, flour, 1 dozen oysters, the +juice of 1/2 lemon; the number of tench, according to size. + +_Mode_.--Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces, and lay them +in a stewpan; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace, +and simmer gently for 1/2 hour. Put into another stewpan all the +remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil slowly +for 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench, and keep +stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it through a +sieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must be previously +scalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve. +Garnish with croutons. + +_Time_. 3/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from October to June. + +[Illustration: THE TENCH.] + + THE TENCH.--This fish is generally found in foul and weedy + waters, and in such places as are well supplied with rushes. + They thrive best in standing waters, and are more numerous in + pools and ponds than in rivers. Those taken in the latter, + however, are preferable for the table. It does not often exceed + four or five pounds in weight, and is in England esteemed as a + delicious and wholesome food. As, however, they are sometimes + found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid, their + flavour, if cooked immediately on being caught, is often very + unpleasant; but if they are transferred into clear water, they + soon recover from the obnoxious taint. + +TENCH STEWED WITH WINE. + +335. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira or +sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter and +flour. + +_Mode_.--Clean and crimp the tench; carefully lay it in a stewpan with +the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf; let it stew gently for +1/2 hour; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain the +liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and stew +for 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a tammy, add +a very little cayenne, and pour over the fish. Garnish with balls of +veal forcemeat. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from October to June. + + A SINGULAR QUALITY IN THE TENCH.--It is said that the tench is + possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes, + that even the voracious pike spares it on this account. + + The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain, + With ravenous waste devours his fellow train; + Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined, + The tench he spares, a medicinal kind; + For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease, + He courts the salutary fish for ease; + Close to his scales the kind physician glides, + And sweats a healing balsam from his sides. + + In our estimation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be + attributed to a less poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving + disposition of the tench, it is enabled to keep itself so + completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that + it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour. + +STEWED TROUT. + +336. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized trout, 1/2 onion cut in thin slices, +a little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little +thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glass +of port wine, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a +stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmer +gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite done. +Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it over a +sharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it over the trout, and serve. + +_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 hour or more. + +_Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Seasonable_ from May to September, and fatter from the middle to the +end of August than at any other time. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered +paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Genevese is +extremely delicate; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307. + +[Illustration: THE TROUT.] + + THE TROUT.--This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its + delicacy, was little regarded by the ancients. Although it + abounded in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally + mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its + colours. About the end of September, they quit the deep water to + which they had retired during the hot weather, for the purpose + of spawning. This they always do on a gravelly bottom, or where + gravel and sand are mixed among stones, towards the end or by + the sides of streams. At this period they become black about the + head and body, and become soft and unwholesome. They are never + good when they are large with roe; but there are in all trout + rivers some barren female fish, which continue good throughout + the winter. In the common trout, the stomach is uncommonly + strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a portion of the food of + the animal; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones + in order to assist in comminuting it. + +BOILED TURBOT. + +337. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_--Choose a middling-sized turbot; for they are invariably the most +valuable: if very large, the meat will be tough and thready. Three or +four hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to take off +the slime; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an incision +down the middle of the back, to prevent the skin of the belly from +cracking. Rub it over with lemon, and be particular not to cut off the +fins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient cold +water to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it gradually +come to a boil, and skim very carefully; keep it gently simmering, and +on no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have a very unsightly +appearance. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it is done; +then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub a +little lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, and +garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp sauce, +and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. (See Coloured +Plate E.) + +_Time_.--After the water boils, about 1/2 hour for a large turbot; +middling size, about 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_,--large turbot, from 10s. to 12s.; middling size, from +12s. to 15s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_, 1 middling-sized turbot for 8 persons. + +_Note_.--An amusing anecdote is related, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop, +who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot, +and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediately +commenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. This +dignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages. + + +GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH. + +338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids with +flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid, put rather more than a +tablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this, +sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour. +Arrange these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brown +alternately. + +TO CHOOSE TURBOT.--See that it is thick, and of a yellowish white; for +if of a bluish tint, it is not good. + +[Illustration: THE TURBOT.] + + THE TURBOT.--This is the most esteemed of all our flat fish. The + northern parts of the English coast, and some places off the + coast of Holland, produce turbot in great abundance, and in + greater excellence than any other parts of the world. The London + market is chiefly supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it + nearly 90,000 a year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and + gelatinous, and is the better for being kept a day or two + previous to cooking it. In many parts of the country, turbot and + halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other. They are, + however, perfectly distinct; the upper parts of the former being + marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles, while those of + the other are quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft scales, + which firmly adhere to the body. + +[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE.] + + FISH-KETTLES are made in an oblong form, and have two handles, + with a movable bottom, pierced full of holes, on which the fish + is laid, and on which it may be lifted from the water, by means + of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom. + This is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish, as it + would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan. In + the list of Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price + of two of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as will + be seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary + fish-kettles, it being less deep, whilst it is wider, and more + pointed at the sides; thus exactly answering to the shape of the + fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be + obtained from the same manufacturers, and its price is L1. + +BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT. + +339. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from +the preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs; cayenne and salt to taste; +minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide it +into square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinkle +with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay +the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste with. Bake +for 1/4 hour, and do not forget to keep them well moistened with the +butter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster +sauce; make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained +from the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be +found much nicer than putting the fish again in water. + + +FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'ITALIENNE. + +340. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See +Sauces.) + +_Mode_.--Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all skin, +which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce hot, lay +in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with +croutons. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT.--As this luxurious + people compared soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks, + so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant. In + the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such + dimensions as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove + to be erected, and a new dish to be made for it, in order that + it might be cooked and served whole: not even imperial Rome + could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous + animal. Where it was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of + the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the "Eternal City." + +TURBOT A LA CREME. + +341. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of +butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot, +which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less waste +when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally as +possible; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the cream +and seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil. Lay in +the fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croutons or a paste +border. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and the +above mixture may be served in a _vol-au-vent_. + + +TURBOT AU GRATIN. + +342. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold turbot, bechamel (_see_ Sauces), +bread crumbs, butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing +it from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten with 4 +or 5 tablespoonfuls of bechamel. Let it get thoroughly hot, but do not +allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with finely-grated +bread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the top. Brown it in +the oven, or with a salamander. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BOILED WHITING. + +343. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, but do not skin them; lay them in a +fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in the +above proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for +about 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish them +on a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovy +or caper sauce, and plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_ for small whitings, 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. + +_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. + +To CHOOSE WHITING.--Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery +hue of its appearance. + +[Illustration: THE WHITING.] + + The Whiting.--This fish forms a light, tender, and delicate + food, easy of digestion. It appears in our seas in the spring, + within three miles of the shores, where it arrives in large + shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by line, and is + usually between ten and twelve inches long, and seldom exceeding + a pound and a half in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank, + however, it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to + seven or eight pounds. When less than six inches long, it is not + allowed to be caught. + +BROILED WHITING. + +344. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water, flour. + +_Mode_.--Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly, and +let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour them well, +and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with _maitre d'hotel_ sauce, or +plain melted butter (_see_ Sauces). Be careful to preserve the liver, as +by some it is considered very delicate. + +_Time_.--5 minutes for a small whiting. _Average cost_, 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. + +_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. + +Buckhorn.--Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, and in +winter taken to the markets, and sold under the singular name of +"Buckhorn." + + +FRIED WHITING. + +345. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard or +clarified dripping. + +_Mode_.--Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish free +from all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg and +bread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by means +of a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a little +flour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified +dripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with +fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Send them to table with shrimp +sauce and plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. + +_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. + +_Note_.--Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as fried +filleted soles (_see_ Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings are +frequently used for garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod, +etc. + + +WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING. + +346. INGREDIENTS.--4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, +a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable; pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg +to taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over it, +strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash the +whitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving the livers. +Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning, +adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more minced parsley and +mushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the whiting, moisten with +the wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there should be too +much sauce, reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes, +and pour under the fish. Serve with a cut lemon, and no other sauce. + +_Time_.---20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. + +_Sufficient_.--This quantity for 4 or 5 persons. + + +WHITING AUX FINE HERBES. + +347. INGREDIENTS.-1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine; butter. + +_Mode_.--Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths; and lay +them in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them over the +fish, and place small pieces of butter over; cover with another dish, +and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Turn the +fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. + +_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. + + THE WHITING POUT, AND POLLACK.--About the mouth of the Thames, + and generally all round the English coasts, as well as in the + northern seas, the pout is plentiful. It bears a striking + resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent + fish.--The _pollack_ is also taken all round our coasts, and + likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting; indeed, it + is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish; its + flesh being considered by many equally delicate. + +TO DRESS WHITEBAIT. + +348. INGREDIENTS.--A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt. + +_Mode_.--This fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought, +unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in a +colander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put 2 good +handfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them lightly in the +cloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous +flour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and +let them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they are done, they +must he taken out, and laid before the fire for a minute or two on a +sieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat. Dish them +on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the centre, and sprinkle +a little salt over the whole. + +_Time_.--3 minutes. + +_Seasonable _from April to August. + +[Illustration: WHITEBAIT.] + + WHITEBAIT.--This highly-esteemed little fish appears in + innumerable multitudes in the river Thames, near Greenwich and + Blackwall, during the month of July, when it forms, served with + lemon and brown bread and butter, a tempting dish to vast + numbers of Londoners, who flock to the various taverns of these + places, in order to gratify their appetites. The fish has been + supposed be the fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, or the + bleak. Mr. Yarrell, however, maintains that it is a species in + itself, distinct from every other fish. When fried with flour, + it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have + had a custom, for many years, of having a "whitebait dinner" + just before the close of the session. It is invariably the + precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and the repast is + provided by the proprietor of the "Trafalgar," Greenwich. + +FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS. + +349. INGREDIENTS.--2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs, 4 +blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste, +1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puff +paste. + +_Mode_.--Clean and bone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut them +into pieces 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole. Put +the bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water, +and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it off, put +it to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels in a +pie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley, and +hard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in with +puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour or rather more. The oven should be +rather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor, which +pour into the pie. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow. + + +FISH SCALLOP. + +I. + +350. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold fish of any sort, 1/2 pint of cream, +1/2 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoonful of made mustard, +ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above quantities +are for 1/2 lb. of fish when picked); bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking the +fish from the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot, +occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When done, +put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity of +bread crumbs; place small pieces of butter on the top, set in a Dutch +oven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 10d. + + +II. + +351. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of pounded +mace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, pepper +and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter. + +_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with milk +and the egg; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish or +scallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown +before the fire; when quite hot, serve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 4d. + +WATER SOUCHY. + +352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best +fish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with a +bunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to make it +brackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in this +water. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready some +finely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about one +inch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or deep dish, +strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley and roots. Serve +with brown bread and butter. + +353. SUPPLY OF FISH TO THE LONDON MARKET.--From Mr. Mayhew's work on +"London Labour and the London Poor," and other sources, we are enabled +to give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the +London market:-- + + + Description of Fish. Number of Weight of + Fish Fish in lbs + WET FISH. + + Salmon and Salmon-Trout(29,000 boxes, + 14 fish per box) 406,000 3,480,000 + Turbot, from 8 to 16 lbs. 800,000 5,600,000 + Live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. each 400,000 4,000,000 + Soles, averaging 1/4 lbs. each 97,520,000 26,880,000 + Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. each 1,220,000 3,366,000 + Whiting, averaging 6 oz. each 17,920,000 6,720,000 + Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. each 2,470,000 4,940,000 + Plaice, averaging 1 lb. each 33,600,000 33,600,000 + Mackerel, averaging 1 lb ach 23,520,000 23,520,000 + Fresh herrings (250,000 barrels, 700 + fish per barrel) 175,000,000 42,000,000 + Ditto in bulk 1,050,000,000 252,000,000 + Sprats -- 4,000,000 + Eels (from Holland principally) + England and Ireland 9,797,760 1,632,960 + Flounders 259,200 48,200 + Dabs 270,000 48,750 + + DRY FISH. + + Barrelled Cod(15,000 barrels, 40 fish + per barrel) 750,000 4,200,000 + Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs each 1,600,000 8,000,000 + Smoked Haddock(65,000 barrels, 300 + fish per barrel) 19,500,000 10,920,000 + Bloaters, 265,000 baskets(150 fish + per basket) 147,000,000 10,600,000 + Red Herrings, 100,000 barrels(500 + fish per barrel) 50,000,000 14,000,000 + Dried Sprats, 9,600 large bundles + (30 fish per bundle) 288,000 9,600 + + SHELL FISH. + + Oysters 495,896,000 + Lobsters, averaging 1 lb each 1,200,000 1,200,000 + Crabs, averaging 1 lb each 600,000 600,000 + Shrimps, 324 to a pint 498,428,648 + Whelks, 227 to a half-bushel 4,943,200 + Mussels, 1000 to ditto 50,400,000 + Cockles, 2000 to ditto 67,392,000 + Periwinkles, 4000 to ditto 304,000,000 + +The whole of the above may be, in round numbers, reckoned to amount to +the enormous number of 3,000,000,000 fish, with a weight of 300,000 +tons. + + +ADDENDUM AND ANECDOTE. + +It will be seen, from the number and variety of the recipes which we +have been enabled to give under the head of FISH, that there exists in +the salt ocean, and fresh-water rivers, an abundance of aliment, which +the present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce to +the table in the most agreeable forms, and oftentimes at a very moderate +cost. + +Less nutritious as a food than the flesh of animals, more succulent than +vegetables, fish may be termed a middle dish, suited to all temperaments +and constitutions; and one which those who are recovering from illness +may partake of with safety and advantage. + +As to which is the best fish, there has been much discussion. The old +Latin proverb, however, _de gustibus non disputandum_, and the more +modern Spanish one, _sobre los gustos no hai disputa_, declare, with +equal force, that where _taste_ is concerned, no decision can be arrived +at. Each person's palate may be differently affected--pleased or +displeased; and there is no standard by which to judge why a red mullet, +a sole, or a turbot, should be better or worse than a salmon, trout, +pike, or a tiny tench. + +Fish, as we have explained, is less nourishing than meat; for it is +lighter in weight, size for size, and contains no ozmazome (_see_ No. +100). Shell-fish, oysters particularly, furnish but little nutriment; +and this is the reason why so many of the latter can be eaten without +injury to the system. + +In Brillat Savarin's [Footnote: Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and +judge of considerable eminence and great talents, and wrote, under the +above title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive information, +enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote.] clever and amusing +volume, "The Physiology of Taste," he says, that towards the end of the +eighteenth century it was a most common thing for a well-arranged +entertainment in Paris to commence with oysters, and that many guests +were not contented without swallowing twelve dozen. Being anxious to +know the weight of this advanced-guard, he ascertained that a dozen +oysters, fluid included, weighed 4 ounces,--thus, the twelve dozen would +weigh about 3 lbs.; and there can be no doubt, that the same persons who +made no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters, +would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same weight +of chicken or mutton. An anecdote, perfectly well authenticated, is +narrated of a French gentleman (M. Laperte), residing at Versailles, who +was extravagantly fond of oysters, declaring he never had enough. +Savarin resolved to procure him the satisfaction, and gave him an +invitation to dinner, which was duly accepted. The guest arrived, and +his host kept company with him in swallowing the delicious bivalves up +to the tenth dozen, when, exhausted, he gave up, and let M. Laperte go +on alone. This gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an hour, +and would doubtless have got through more, but the person who opened +them is described as not being very skilful. In the interim Savarin was +idle, and at length, tired with his painful state of inaction, he said +to Laperte, whilst the latter was still in full career, "Mon cher, you +will not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant; let us dine." They +dined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as if he had +fasted for a week. + + +FISH CARVING. + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH. + +In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as, +if these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should +be acquainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give +each guest an equal share of these _titbits_ should be his maxim. Steel +knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as these +are liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. Where silver +fish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought, good electro-plated +ones answer very well, and are inexpensive. The prices set down for them +by Messrs. Slack, of the Strand, are from a guinea upwards. + + +COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. + +(For recipe, see No. 232; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate C.) + +[Illustration] + +First run the knife along the centre of the side of the fish, namely, +from _d_ to _b_, down to the bone; then carve it in unbroken slices +downwards from _d_ to _e_, or upwards from _d_ to _c_, as shown in the +engraving. The carver should ask the guests if they would like a portion +of the roe and liver. + +_Note_.--Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders are +the firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which lines +the fish beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also the +gelatinous parts about the head and neck. + + +SALMON. + +(For recipe, see No. 301; and for mode of dressing, Coloured Plate B.) + +[Illustration] + +First run the knife quite down to the bone, along the side of the fish, +from _a_ to _b_, and also from _c_ to _d_. Then help the thick part +lengthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from _a_ to _b_; and +the thin part breadthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from +_e_ to _f_, as shown in the engraving. A slice of the thick part should +always be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly, +where lies the fat of the fish. + +_Note_.--Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing +the thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that we have +stated; and thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its +appearance is destroyed. + + +BOILED OR FRIED SOLE. + +(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327.) + +The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone and +all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. A +moderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices; namely, the +head, middle, and tail. The guests should be asked which of these they +prefer. A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is very +large, the upper side may be raised from the bone, and then divided into +pieces; and the under side afterwards served in the same way. + +In helping FILLETED SOLES, one fillet is given to each person. (For mode +of serving, see Coloured Plate A.) + + +TURBOT. + +(For recipe, see No. 337; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate E.) + +First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quite +through to the bone, from _a_ to _b_, and then cut handsome and regular +slices in the direction of the lines downwards, from _c_ to _e_, and +upwards from _c_ to _d_, as shown in the engraving. When the carver has +removed all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone +should be raised, put on one side of the dish, and the under side helped +as the upper. + + +A BRILL and JOHN DORY are carved in the same manner as a Turbot. + +[Illustration] + +_Note_.--The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices +in a turbot; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as +a little of the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and should +be placed on each plate. + + +WHITING, &c. + +Whiting, pike, haddock, and other fish, when of a sufficiently large +size, may be carved in the same manner as salmon. When small, they may +be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces, a +middling-sized whiting serving for two slices. + +_Note_.--The THICK part of the EEL is reckoned the best; and this holds +good of all flat fish. + +The TAIL of the LOBSTER is the prime part, and next to that the CLAWS. + +[Illustration: FISH CARVERS.] + + + + +[Illustration] + +SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +354. AN ANECDOTE IS TOLD of the prince de Soubise, who, intending to +give an entertainment, asked for the bill of fare. His _chef_ came, +presenting a list adorned with vignettes, and the first article of +which, that met the prince's eye, was "fifty hams." "Bertrand," said the +prince, "I think you must be extravagant; Fifty hams! do you intend to +feast my whole regiment?" "No, Prince, there will be but one on the +table, and the surplus I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures, +&c." "Bertrand, you are robbing me: this item will not do." +"Monseigneur," said the _artiste_, "you do not appreciate me. Give me +the order, and I will put those fifty hams in a crystal flask no longer +than my thumb." The prince smiled, and the hams were passed. This was +all very well for the prince de Soubise; but as we do not write for +princes and nobles alone, but that our British sisters may make the best +dishes out of the least expensive ingredients, we will also pass the +hams, and give a few general directions concerning Sauces, &c. + +355. THE PREPARATION AND APPEARANCE OF SAUCES AND GRAVIES are of the +highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the +cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the various +viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that +they may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, as +does a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer. + +356. THE GENERAL BASIS OF MOST GRAVIES and some sauces is the same stock +as that used for soups (_see_ Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107); and, by the +employment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a little +spice, a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or +ketchup, very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. A +milt (either of a bullock or sheep), the shank-end of mutton that has +already been dressed, and the necks and feet of poultry, may all be +advantageously used for gravy, where much is not required. It may, then, +be established as a rule, that there exists no necessity for good +gravies to be expensive, and that there is no occasion, as many would +have the world believe, to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat, in +order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy. + +357. BROWN SAUCES, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as +white sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, that all those which are +intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of a +sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over +which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c., browned +flour may be properly employed. + +358. SAUCES SHOULD POSSESS A DECIDED CHARACTER; and whether sharp or +sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct +manner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them too +piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. + +359. GRAVIES AND SAUCES SHOULD BE SENT TO TABLE VERY HOT; and there is +all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from their +being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool +quickly than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which cream +or eggs form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as these +ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil; as, in +that case, they would instantly curdle. + +360. ALTHOUGH PICKLES MAY BE PURCHASED at shops at as low a rate as they +can usually be made for at home, or perhaps even for less, yet we would +advise all housewives, who have sufficient time and convenience, to +prepare their own. The only general rules, perhaps, worth stating +here,--as in the recipes all necessary details will be explained, are, +that the vegetables and fruits used should be sound, and not over ripe, +and that the very best vinegar should be employed. + +361. FOR FORCEMEATS, SPECIAL ATTENTION IS NECESSARY. The points which +cooks should, in this branch of cookery, more particularly observe, are +the thorough chopping of the suet, the complete mincing of the herbs, +the careful grating of the bread-crumbs, and the perfect mixing of the +whole. These are the three principal ingredients of forcemeats, and they +can scarcely be cut too small, as nothing like a lump or fibre should be +anywhere perceptible. To conclude, the flavour of no one spice or herb +should be permitted to predominate. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER X. + + +SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. + + +ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR FISH. + +362. INGREDIENTS.--4 anchovies, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of melted +butter, cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Bone the anchovies, and pound them in a mortar to a paste, with +1 oz. of butter. Make the melted butter hot, stir in the pounded +anchovies and cayenne; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes; and if liked, add a +squeeze of lemon-juice. A more general and expeditious way of making +this sauce is to stir in 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to 1/2 +pint of melted butter, and to add seasoning to taste. Boil the whole up +for 1 minute, and serve hot. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d. for 1/2 pint. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles, +&c. + +ANCHOVY BUTTER (_see_ No. 227). + +[Illustration: THE CAPISCUM.] + + CAYENNE.--This is the most acrid and stimulating spice with + which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from several + varieties of the capsicum annual East-India plants, of which + there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able + to grow in the open air: these are the Guinea, the Cherry, and + the Bell pepper. All the pods of these are extremely pungent to + the taste, and in the green state are used by us as a pickle. + When ripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a + condiment. The best of this, however, is made in the West + Indies, from what is called the _Bird_ pepper, on account of + hens and turkeys being extremely partial to it. It is imported + ready for use. Of the capiscum species of plants there are five; + but the principal are,--1. _Capsicum annuum_, the common + long-podded capsicum, which is cultivated in our gardens, and of + which there are two varieties, one with red, and another with + yellow fruit. 2. _Capsicum baccatum_, or bird pepper, which + rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet high, with its + berries growing at the division of the branches: this is small, + oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as we have + said, the best cayenne is made. 3. _Capsicum grossum_, the + bell-pepper: the fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit + for pickling. + +APPLE SAUCE FOR GEESE, PORK, &c. + +363. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, sifted sugar to taste, a piece +of butter the size of a walnut, water. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and throw them into cold +water to preserve their whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, with +sufficient water to moisten them, and boil till soft enough to pulp. +Beat them up, adding sugar to taste, and a small piece of butter This +quantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen. + +_Time_.--According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks. + + +BROWN APPLE SAUCE. + +364. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, 1/2 pint of brown gravy, cayenne +to taste. + +_Mode_. Put the gravy in a stewpan, and add the apples, after having +pared, cored, and quartered them. Let them simmer gently till tender; +beat them to a pulp, and season with cayenne. This sauce is preferred by +many to the preceding. + +_Time_.--According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. + + +ASPARAGUS SAUCE. + +365. INGREDIENTS.--1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. of fresh +butter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large lump of +sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of sauce tournee. + +_Mode_.--Break the asparagus in the tender part, wash well, and put them +into boiling salt and water to render them green. When they are tender, +take them out, and put them into cold water; drain them on a cloth till +all moisture is absorbed from them. Put the butter in a stewpan, with +the parsley and onions; lay in the asparagus, and fry the whole over a +sharp fire for 5 minutes. Add salt, the sugar and sauce tournee, and +simmer for another 5 minutes. Rub all through a tammy, and if not a very +good colour, use a little spinach green. This sauce should be rather +sweet. + +_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d. + + +ASPIC, or ORNAMENTAL SAVOURY JELLY. + +366. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slices +of ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury +herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste of salt +and whole white pepper; 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the veal and +cow-heel into small pieces, and lay them on the ham; add the poultry +trimmings, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water, and let the whole +simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully taking away all scum that may +rise to the surface; strain through a fine sieve, and pour into an +earthen pan to get cold. Have ready a clean stewpan, put in the jelly, +and be particular to leave the sediment behind, or it will not be clear. +Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and pepper, to clarify; keep +stirring over the fire, till the whole becomes very white; then draw it +to the side, and let it stand till clear. When this is the case, strain +it through a cloth or jelly-bag, and use it for moulding poultry, etc. +(See Explanation of French Terms, page 44.) Tarragon vinegar may be +added to give an additional flavour. + +_Time_.--Altogether 4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. + + WHITE PEPPER.--This is the produce of the same plant as that + which produces the black pepper, from which it is manufactured + by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the + hands till the coats come off. The best berries only will bear + this operation; hence the superior qualities of white pepper + fetch a higher price than those of the other. It is less acrid + than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is + sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with + burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of + from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red + colour. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, + they are spread out in the sun, where they dry and become black + and shrivelled, when they are ready for being prepared for the + market. + +BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE. + +367. INGREDIENTS.--1 small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, 1/2 bay-leaf, 1 +small faggot of savoury herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, when +obtainable; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of +arrowroot. + +_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, cloves, +bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a seasoning of salt, but no pepper, +as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, and should be avoided. +When it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour of the herbs, +etc., strain it, and boil it up quickly again, until it is nearly +half-reduced. Now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream, and let it +simmer very gently for 5 minutes over a slow fire; pour to it the +reduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10 minutes, if the +sauce be thick. If, on the contrary, it be too thin, it must be stirred +over a sharp fire till it thickens. This is the foundation of many kinds +of sauces, especially white sauces. Always make it thick, as you can +easily thin it with cream, milk, or white stock. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per pint. + +[Illustration: THE CLOVE.] + + THE CLOVE.--The clove-tree is a native of the Molucca Islands, + particularly Amboyna, and attains the height of a laurel-tree, + and no verdure is ever seen under it. From the extremities of + the branches quantities of flowers grow, first white; then they + become green, and next red and hard, when they have arrived at + their clove state. When they become dry, they assume a yellowish + hue, which subsequently changes into a dark brown. As an + aromatic, the clove is highly stimulating, and yields an + abundance of oil. There are several varieties of the clove; the + best is called the _royal clove_, which is scarce, and which is + blacker and smaller than the other kinds. It is a curious fact, + that the flowers, when fully developed, are quite inodorous, and + that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic. The form is + that of a nail, having a globular head, formed of the four + petals of the corolla, and four leaves of the calyx not + expanded, with a nearly cylindrical germen, scarcely an inch in + length, situate below. + +BECHAMEL MAIGRE, or WITHOUT MEAT. + +368. INGREDIENTS.--2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom trimmings, a +small bunch of parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 +pint of milk, salt, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put in a stewpan the milk, and 1/2 pint of water, with the +onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Let these simmer gently for +20 minutes. In the mean time, rub on a plate 1 oz. of flour and butter; +put it to the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up; then place it +by the side of the fire, and continue stirring until it is perfectly +smooth. Now strain it through a sieve into a basin, after which put it +back in the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. Beat up the yolks of the +eggs with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this to the sauce, +keep stirring it over the fire, but do not let it boil, lest it curdle. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d. per pint. + +This is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a bad +colour. + + +PICKLED BEETROOT. + +369. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz. of whole +pepper, 2 oz. of allspice to each gallon of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Wash the beets free from dirt, and be very careful not to prick +the outside skin, or they would lose their beautiful colour. Put them +into boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when about three parts +done, which will be in 1-1/2 hour, take them out and let them cool. Boil +the vinegar with pepper and allspice, in the above proportion, for ten +minutes, and when cold, pour it on the beets, which must be peeled and +cut into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Cover with bladder to exclude the +air, and in a week they will be fit for use. + +_Average cost_, 3s. per gallon. + +[Illustration: BLACK PEPPER.] + + BLACK PEPPER.--This well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a + species of climbing vine, and is a native of the East Indies, + and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands + of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and others in the same latitude. + It was formerly confined to these countries, but it has now been + introduced to Cayenne. It is generally employed as a condiment; + but it should never be forgotten, that, even in small + quantities, it produces detrimental effects on inflammatory + constitutions. Dr. Paris, in his work on Diet, says, "Foreign + spices were not intended by Nature for the inhabitants of + temperate climes; they are heating, and highly stimulant. I am, + however, not anxious to give more weight to this objection than + it deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the + passive inhabitant of any particular region. He ranges over + every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the + productions of every climate. Nature is very kind in favouring + the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer + our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender + endemic diseases, are, in general, congenial to the growth of + plants that operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the + East for tea, there is no reason why we should not go to the + West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be + cautious in their use; they may afford temporary benefit, at the + expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said, that the + best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their + worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the + stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should always be + suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for + their natural want of sapidity." The quality of pepper is known + by rubbing it between the hands: that which withstands this + operation is good, that which is reduced to powder by it is bad. + The quantity of pepper imported into Europe is very great. + +BENTON SAUCE (to serve with Hot or Cold Roast Beef). + +370. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful +of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of +vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with the +other ingredients, which must be all well blended together; serve in a +tureen. With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute for +pickles. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d. + +BREAD SAUCE (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c.). + +I. + +371. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 3/4 of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 +onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk till +perfectly tender. Break the bread, which should be stale, into small +pieces, carefully picking out any hard outside pieces; put it in a very +clean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remain +for an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, add a +seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of butter; give +the whole one boil, and serve. To enrich this sauce, a small quantity of +cream may be added just before sending it to table. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1-3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls, or brace of +partridges. + +[Illustration: MACE.] + + MACE.--This is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the + nutmeg. Its general qualities are the same as those of the + nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic odour, with a hot and + acrid taste. It is of an oleaginous nature, is yellowish in its + hue, and is used largely as a condiment. In "Beeton's + Dictionary" we find that the four largest of the Banda Islands + produce 150,000 lbs. of it annually, which, with nutmegs, are + their principal articles of export. + +II. + +372. INGREDIENTS.--Giblets of poultry, 3/4 lb. of the crumb of a stale +loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2 +tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &c., into a +stewpan; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than 1 pint +of water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor over the +bread, which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces. +Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire; +then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain, and the whole +is nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring it +until it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls of good melted +butter or cream, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. + + +BROWNING FOR GRAVIES AND SAUCES. + +373. The browning for soups (_see_ No. 108) answers equally well for +sauces and gravies, when it is absolutely necessary to colour them in +this manner; but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup, +wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colour sauce, it is far +preferable. As, however, in cooking, so much depends on appearance, +perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the +artificial means (No. 108). When no browning is at hand, and you wish to +heighten the colour of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron +spoon over a sharp fire; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the +sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too +much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour. + +BEURRE NOIR, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce). + +374. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, +3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire, and +when it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add the vinegar and seasoning. +Let the whole simmer for a minute or two, when it is ready to serve. +This is a very good sauce for skate. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + + +CLARIFIED BUTTER. + +375. Put the butter in a basin before the fire, and when it melts, stir +it round once or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain it unless +absolutely necessary, as it causes so much waste. Pour it gently off +into a clean dry jar, carefully leaving all sediment behind. Let it +cool, and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder, or piece of +wash-leather, tied over. If the butter is salt, it may be washed before +melting, when it is to be used for sweet dishes. + + +MELTED BUTTER. + +I. + +376. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, 1 +wineglassful of water, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the butter up into small pieces, put it in a saucepan, +dredge over the flour, and add the water and a seasoning of salt; stir +it _one way_ constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and +thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the +butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water, +but omit the flour; keep stirring it, but do not allow it to boil. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d. + +II. + +_(More Economical.)_ + +377. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to +taste, 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, which put into a +saucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning of salt, keep stirring _one +way_ till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth; let the +whole boil for a minute or two, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d. + + +MELTED BUTTER (the French Sauce Blanche). + +378. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, +salt to taste, 1/2 gill of water, 1/2 spoonful of white vinegar, a very +little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully rubbing +down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear. Put it in a +saucepan with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken on the fire, +but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste of the flour. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. + +_Average cost_, 5d. for this quantity. + +[Illustration: THE NUTMEG.] + + NUTMEG.--This is a native of the Moluccas, and was long kept + from being spread in other places by the monopolizing spirit of + the Dutch, who endeavoured to keep it wholly to themselves by + eradicating it from every other island. We find it stated in + "Beeton's Dictionary of Universal Information," under the + article "Banda Islands," that the four largest are appropriated + to the cultivation of nutmegs, of which about 500,000 lbs. are + annually produced. The plant, through the enterprise of the + British, has now found its way into Penang and Bencooleu, where + it flourishes and produces well. It has also been tried to be + naturalized in the West Indies, and it bears fruit all the year + round. There are two kinds of nutmeg,--one wild, and long and + oval-shaped, the other cultivated, and nearly round. The best is + firm and hard, and has a strong aromatic odour, with a hot and + acrid taste. It ought to be used with caution by those who are + of paralytic or apoplectic habits. + +THICKENED BUTTER. + +379.--INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of 2 +eggs, a little lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Make the butter quite hot, and be careful not to colour it. +Well whisk the yolks of the eggs, pour them to the butter, beating them +all the while. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but do not let it boil; +add a squeeze of lemon-juice. + + +MELTED BUTTER MADE WITH MILK. + +380. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. butter, 1/3 pint of +milk, a few grains of salt. + +_Mode_.--Mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate, put it +into a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring it _one way_ +over a sharp fire; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it is +ready to serve. This is a very good foundation for onion, lobster, or +oyster sauce: using milk instead of water makes it look so much whiter +and more delicate. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3d. + + +CAMP VINEGAR. + +381. INGREDIENTS.--1 head of garlic, 1/2 oz. cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls of +soy, 2 ditto walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal to colour. + +_Mode_.--Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients, +into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for a month, when strain it +off quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottles +well sealed, to exclude the air. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d. + + +CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON. + +382. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoonfuls +of capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoonful of their liquor. + +_Mode_.--Chop the capers twice or thrice, and add them, with their +liquor, to 1/2 pint of melted butter, made very smoothly; keep stirring +well; let the sauce just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Pickled +nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and by many are eaten in preference +to capers. They make an excellent sauce. + +_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a leg of mutton. + + +CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. + +383. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessertspoonfuls +of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of their liquor, a small piece of glaze, if +at hand (this may be dispensed with), 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, ditto of +pepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence. + +_Mode_.--Cut the capers across once or twice, but do not chop them fine; +put them in a saucepan with 1/2 pint of good melted butter, and add all +the other ingredients. Keep stirring the whole until it just simmers, +when it is ready to serve. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 5d. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 slices of salmon. + +[Illustration: THE CAPER.] + + CAPERS.--These are the unopened buds of a low trailing shrub, + which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece, as + well as in northern Africa: the plant, however, has come to be + cultivated in the south of Europe. After being pickled in + vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the + south of France. The best are from Toulon. + +A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE. + +384. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoonfuls +of cut parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour; cut, but +do not chop it fine. Add it to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter, +with salt and vinegar in the above proportions. Boil up and serve. + +_Time_.--2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 3d. + + +PICKLED CAPSICUMS. + +385. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar, 1/4 oz. of pounded mace, and 1/4 oz. of +grated nutmeg, to each quart; brine. + +_Mode_.--Gather the pods with the stalks on, before they turn red; slit +them down the side with a small-pointed knife, and remove the seeds +only; put them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing it every morning; +then take them out, lay them on a cloth, with another one over them, +until they are perfectly free from moisture. Boil sufficient vinegar to +cover them, with mace and nutmeg in the above proportions; put the pods +in a jar, pour over the vinegar when cold, and exclude them from the air +by means of a wet bladder tied over. + + +CAYENNE VINEGAR, or ESSENCE OF CAYENNE. + +386. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1/2 pint of strong spirit, +or 1 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Put the vinegar, or spirit, into a bottle, with the above +proportion of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, when strain off and +bottle for use. This is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces, but +must be used very sparingly. + + +CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, &c. + +387. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 2 +blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs; thickening of butter and +flour, or arrowroot, 1/2 pint of cream, lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Boil the celery in salt and water, until tender, and cut it +into pieces 2 inches long. Put the stock into a stewpan with the mace +and herbs, and let it simmer for 1/2 hour to extract their flavour. Then +strain the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter kneaded +with flour, or, what is still better, with arrowroot; just before +serving, put in the cream, boil it up and squeeze in a little +lemon-juice. If necessary, add a seasoning of salt and white pepper. + +_Time_.--25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled turkey. + +This sauce may be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock, and +flavouring it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce. + +[Illustration: ARROWROOT.] + + ARROWROOT.--This nutritious fecula is obtained from the roots of + a plant which is cultivated in both the East and West Indies. + When the roots are about a year old, they are dug up, and, after + being well washed, are beaten to a pulp, which is afterwards, by + means of water, separated from the fibrous part. After being + passed through a sieve, once more washed, and then suffered to + settle, the sediment is dried in the sun, when it has become + arrowroot. The best is obtained from the West Indies, but a + large quantity of what is sold in London is adulterated with + potato-starch. As a means of knowing arrowroot when it is good, + it may be as well to state, that the genuine article, when + formed into a jelly, will remain firm for three or four days, + whilst the adulterated will become as thin as milk in the course + of twelve hours. + +CELERY SAUCE (a More Simple Recipe). + +388. INGREDIENTS.--4 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made +with milk (No. 380), 1 blade of pounded mace; salt and white pepper to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash the celery, boil it in salt and water till tender, and cut +it into pieces 2 inches long; make 1/2 pint melted butter by recipe No. +380; put in the celery, pounded mace, and seasoning; simmer for three +minutes, when the sauce will be ready to serve. + +_Time_.--25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled fowl. + + +CELERY VINEGAR. + +389. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 oz. of celery-seed, 1 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar; boil the vinegar, +and when cold, pour it to the seed; let it infuse for a fortnight, when +strain and bottle off for use. This is frequently used in salads. + + +CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR FOWLS OR TURKEY. + +390. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of white stock, 2 +strips of lemon-peel, cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of cream or milk. + +_Mode_.--Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts, and put them into +boiling water for a few minutes; take off the thin inside peel, and put +them into a saucepan, with the white stock and lemon-peel, and let them +simmer for 1-1/2 hour, or until the chestnuts are quite tender. Rub the +whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; add seasoning and the +cream; let it just simmer, but not boil, and keep stirring all the time. +Serve very hot; and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, a very +small quantity of thickening may be required: that, of course, the cook +will determine. + +_Time_.--Altogether nearly two hours. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a turkey. + + +BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE. + +391. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 2 +lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce (_see_ Sauces). + +_Mode_.--Prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe, by scalding +and peeling them; put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar, and +simmer them till tender. When done, add Spanish sauce in the above +proportion, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather +liquid, as it is liable to thicken. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to simmer the chestnuts. _Average cost_, 8d. + + +BENGAL RECIPE FOR MAKING MANGO CHETNEY. + +392. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lbs. of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb. +of garlic, 1/4 lb. of onions, 3/4 lb. of powdered ginger, 1/4 lb. of +dried chilies, 3/4 lb. of mustard-seed, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 2 +bottles of best vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples. + +_Mode_.--The sugar must be made into syrup; the garlic, onions, and +ginger be finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed be washed in cold +vinegar, and dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, cored, and sliced, +and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar. When all this is done, +and the apples are quite cold, put them into a large pan, and gradually +mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, including the remaining +half-bottle of vinegar. It must be well stirred until the whole is +thoroughly blended, and then put into bottles for use. Tie a piece of +wet bladder over the mouths of the bottles, after they are well corked. +This chetney is very superior to any which can be bought, and one trial +will prove it to be delicious. + +_Note_.--This recipe was given by a native to an English lady, who had +long been a resident in India, and who, since her return to her native +country, has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for the +excellence of this Eastern relish. + +[Illustration: GARLIC.] + + GARLIC.--The smell of this plant is generally considered + offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the + whole of the alliaceous tribe. In 1548 it was introduced to + England from the shores of the Mediterranean, where it is + abundant, and in Sicily it grows naturally. It was in greater + repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves, although it + is still used as a seasoning herb. On the continent, especially + in Italy, it is much used, and the French consider it an + essential in many made dishes. + +CHILI VINEGAR. + +393. INGREDIENTS.--50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Pound or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them in the +vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found +an agreeable relish to fish, as many people cannot eat it without the +addition of an acid and cayenne pepper. + + +CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE FOR MEAT OR GAME. + +394. INGREDIENTS.-1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's +sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded white +sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne +pepper, ditto of salt. + +_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and heat the sauce +gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of +boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. +This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, and +will be found excellent. + + +CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES. + +395. Consomme is made precisely in the same manner as stock No. 107, +and, for ordinary purposes, will be found quite good enough. When, +however, a stronger stock is desired, either put in half the quantity of +water, or double that of the meat. This is a very good foundation for +all white sauces. + + +CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (equal to Lobster Sauce). + +396. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab; salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; 1/2 +pint of melted butter made with milk (_see_ No. 380). + +_Mode_.--Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the +shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make 1/2 pint of melted +butter by recipe No. 380, put in the fish and seasoning; let it +gradually warm through, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should not boil. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + + +CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH OR WHITE DISHES. + +397. INGREDIENTS.--1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of +flour, salt and cayenne to taste; when liked, a small quantity of +pounded mace or lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter in a very clean saucepan, dredge in the flour, +and keep shaking round till the butter is melted. Add the seasoning and +cream, and stir the whole till it boils; let it just simmer for 5 +minutes, when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste, to give +it a flavour. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 7d. + +This sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot. + + +CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +398. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. of butter, 6 tablespoonfuls +of brown gravy. + +_Mode_.--Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and take out the seeds; cut +them into small pieces; put them in a cloth, and rub them well, to take +out the water which hangs about them. Put the butter in a saucepan, add +the cucumbers, and shake them over a sharp fire until they are of a good +colour. Then pour over it the gravy, mix this with the cucumbers, and +simmer gently for 10 minutes, when it will be ready to serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + + +PICKLED CUCUMBERS. + +399. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger; +sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt over them, and +let them remain for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well for 6 hours, +put them into a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep them in a +warm place. In a short time, boil up the vinegar again, add pepper and +ginger in the above proportion, and instantly cover them up. Tie them +down with bladder, and in a few days they will be fit for use. + +[Illustration: LONG PEPPER.] + + LONG PEPPER.--This is the produce of a different plant from that + which produces the black, it consisting of the half-ripe + flower-heads of what naturalists call _Piper longum_ and + _chaba_. It is the growth, however, of the same countries; + indeed, all the spices are the produce of tropical climates + only. Originally, the most valuable of these were found in the + Spice Islands, or Moluccas, of the Indian Ocean, and were highly + prized by the nations of antiquity. The Romans indulged in them + to a most extravagant degree. The long pepper is less aromatic + than the black, but its oil is more pungent. + +CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE. + +400. INGREDIENTS.--3 or four cucumbers, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. +107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling them and +taking out the seeds. Put them in a stewpan with the white stock and +seasoning; simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender, which will be in +about 1/4 hour. Then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; stir them to +the sauce, but do not allow it to boil, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + + +CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very nice Addition to Salads). + +401. INGREDIENTS.--10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1 quart of +vinegar, 2 onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls +of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar or +wide-mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, and +add them, with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand +4 or 5 days, boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through a +piece of muslin, and store it away in small bottles well sealed. This +vinegar is a very nice addition to gravies, hashes, &e., as well as a +great improvement to salads, or to eat with cold meat. + + +GERMAN METHOD OF KEEPING CUCUMBERS FOR WINTER USE. + +402. INGREDIENTS.--Cucumbers, salt. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers (as for the table), sprinkle well +with salt, and let them remain for 24 hours; strain off the liquor, pack +in jars, a thick layer of cucumbers and salt alternately; tie down +closely, and, when wanted for use, take out the quantity required. Now +wash them well in fresh water, and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar, +and oil. + +[Illustration: THE CUCUMBER.] + + THE CUCUMBER.--Though the melon is far superior in point of + flavour to this fruit, yet it is allied to the cucumber, which + is known to naturalists as _Cucumia sativus_. The modern + Egyptians, as did their forefathers, still eat it, and others of + its class. Cucumbers were observed, too, by Bishop Heber, + beyond the Ganges, in India; and Burckhardt noticed them in + Palestine. (See No. 127.) + +AN EXCELLENT WAY OF PRESERVING CUCUMBERS. + +403. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water; 1 lb. of lump sugar, the rind of 1 +lemon, 1 oz. of ginger, cucumbers. + +_Mode_.--Choose the greenest cucumbers, and those that are most free +from seeds; put them in strong salt and water, with a cabbage-leaf to +keep them down; tie a paper over them, and put them in a warm place till +they are yellow; then wash them and set them over the fire in fresh +water, with a very little salt, and another cabbage-leaf over them; +cover very closely, but take care they do not boil. If they are not a +fine green, change the water again, cover them as before, and make them +hot. When they are a good colour, take them off the fire and let them +cool; cut them in quarters, take out the seeds and pulp, and put them +into cold water. Let them remain for 2 days, changing the water twice +each day, to draw out the salt. Put the sugar, with 1/4 pint of water, +in a saucepan over the fire; remove the scum as it rises, and add the +lemon-peel and ginger with the outside scraped off; when the syrup is +tolerably thick, take it off the fire, and when _cold_, wipe the +cucumbers _dry_, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in 2 or 3 days for +3 weeks; strengthen it if required, and let it be quite cold before the +cucumbers are put in. Great attention must be paid to the directions in +the commencement of this recipe, as, if these are not properly carried +out, the result will be far from satisfactory. + +_Seasonable_.--This recipe should be used in June, July, or August. + +[Illustration: SALT-MINE AT NORTHWICH.] + + COMMON SALT.--By this we mean salt used for cooking purposes, + which is found in great abundance both on land and in the waters + of the ocean. Sea or salt water, as it is often called, + contains, it has been discovered, about three per cent, of salt + on an average. Solid rocks of salt are also found in various + parts of the world, and the county of Chester contains many of + these mines, and it is from there that much of our salt comes. + Some springs are so highly impregnated with salt, as to have + received the name of "brine" springs, and are supposed to have + become so by passing through the salt rocks below ground, and + thus dissolving a portion of this mineral substance. We here + give an engraving of a salt-mine at Northwich, Cheshire, where + both salt-mines and brine-springs are exceedingly productive, + and are believed to have been wrought so far back as during the + occupation of Britain by the Romans. + +CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS OR TARTS. + +404. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 +tablespoonful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk in a very clean saucepan, and let it boil. Beat +the eggs, stir to them the milk and pounded sugar, and put the mixture +into a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring +well until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. +Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate a little +nutmeg over the top. This sauce may be made very much nicer by using +cream instead of milk; but the above recipe will be found quite good +enough for ordinary purposes. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per pint. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding. + + +DUTCH SAUCE FOR FISH. + +405. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1/2 lemon; +salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into a +stew-pan; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. When it +is sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however, +it happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add the +lemon-juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain, +and, by many, is considered far preferable. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +Note.--This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get quite +cold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excellent +salads may be made of hard eggs, or the remains of salt fish flaked +nicely from the bone, by pouring over a little of the above mixture when +hot, and allowing it to cool. + +[Illustration: THE LEMON.] + + THE LEMON.--This fruit is a native of Asia, and is mentioned by + Virgil as an antidote to poison. It is hardier than the orange, + and, as one of the citron tribe, was brought into Europe by the + Arabians. The lemon was first cultivated in England in the + beginning of the 17th century, and is now often to be found in + our green-houses. The kind commonly sold, however, is imported + from Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from St. + Helena; but those from Spain are esteemed the best. Its juice is + now an essential for culinary purposes; but as an antiscorbutic + its value is still greater. This juice, which is called _citric + acid_, may be preserved in bottles for a considerable time, by + covering it with a thin stratum of oil. _Shrub_ is made from it + with rum and sugar. + +GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLLANDAISE VERTE. + +406. INGREDIENTS.--6 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel, No. 367, seasoning to +taste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the juice +of 1/2 a lemon. + +_Mode_.--Put the Bechamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and bring +it to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in a +mortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer, when +add it to the sauce. A moment before serving, put in the lemon-juice, +but not before; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and its +appearance be thus spoiled. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + + BECHAMEL SAUCE--This sauce takes its name from a Monsieur + Bechamel, a rich French financier, who, according to Borne + authorities, invented it; whilst others affirm he only + patronized it. Be this as it may, it is one of the most pleasant + sauces which come to table, and should be most carefully and + intelligently prepared. It is frequently used, as in the above + recipe, as a principal ingredient and basis for other sauces. + +TO PICKLE EGGS. + +407. INGREDIENTS.--16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. of Black pepper, +1/2 oz. of Jamaica pepper, 1/2 oz. of ginger. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip them into cold water, +and take off the shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper and ginger, +into a stewpan, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs in +a jar, pour over them the vinegar, &c., boiling hot, and, when cold, tie +them down with bladder to exclude the air. This pickle will be ready for +use in a month. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made about Easter, as at this time eggs +are plentiful and cheap. A store of pickled eggs will be found very +useful and ornamental in serving with many first and second course +dishes. + +[Illustration: GINGER.] + + The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as _Zingiber officinale_, + is a native, of the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like + the lily of the valley, but its height is about three feet. In + Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading about the + end of the year. The fleshy creeping roots, which form the + ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug when the + stalks are entirely withered. This operation is usually + performed in January and February; and when the roots are taken + out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately + washed, and afterwards very carefully dried. Ginger is generally + considered as less pungent and heating to the system than might + he expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is + frequently used, with considerable effect, as an anti-spasmodic + and carminative. + +EGG BALLS FOR SOUPS AND MADE DISHES. + +408. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, a little flour; seasoning to taste of salt. + +_Mode_.--Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, take the +yolks and pound them in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the other 2 eggs; +add them, with a little flour and salt, to those pounded; mix all well +together, and roll into balls. Boil them before they are put into the +soup or other dish they may be intended for. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, for this quantity, +8d. + +_Sufficient_, 2 dozen balls for 1 tureen of soup. + + +EGG SAUCE FOR SALT FISH. + +409. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; when +liked, a very little lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs until quite hard, which will be in about 20 +minutes, and put them into cold water for 1/2 hour. Strip off the +shells, chop the eggs into small pieces, not, however, too fine. Make +the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376, and, when boiling, +stir in the eggs, and serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be added at +pleasure. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_.--This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. of fish. + +_Note_.--When a thicker sauce is required, use one or two more eggs to +the same quantity of melted butter. + + +EPICUREAN SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, GRAVIES, OR FISH. + +410. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of walnut ketchup, 1/4 pint of mushroom +ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine; +1/4 oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shalots, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. +of cloves, 3/4 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, and let it +remain for a fortnight in a warm place, occasionally shaking up the +contents. Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be found an +agreeable addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d. + +[Illustration: SHALOT.] + + SHALOT, OR ESCHALOT.--This plant is supposed to have been + introduced to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing + wild in the vicinity of Ascalon. It is a bulbous root, and when + full grown, its leaves wither in July. They ought to be taken up + in the autumn, and when dried in the house, will keep till + spring. It is called by old authors the "barren onion," and is + used in sauces and pickles, soups and made dishes, and as an + accompaniment to chops and steaks. + +ESPAGNOLE, OR BROWN SPANISH SAUCE. + +411. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. of veal, 1-1/2 pint of +white stock, No. 107; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 or 3 +sprigs of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of +mace, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, and put them +into a stewpan. Moisten these with 1/2 pint of the stock No. 107, and +simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-coloured +glaze, when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it. Add the remainder +of the stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, and onions, and simmer +very gently for 1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle of fat, and +when required for use, thicken with butter and flour, or with a little +roux. Add the wine, and, if necessary, a seasoning of cayenne; when it +will be ready to serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 2s. per pint. + +_Note_.--The wine in this sauce may be omitted, and an onion sliced and +fried of a nice brown substituted for it. This sauce or gravy is used +for many dishes, and with most people is a general favourite. + + +FENNEL SAUCE FOR MACKEREL. + +412. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, rather more than +1 tablespoonful of chopped fennel. + +_Mode_.--Make the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376; chop +the fennel rather small, carefully cleansing it from any grit or dirt, +and put it to the butter when this is on the point of boiling. Simmer +for a minute or two, and serve in a tureen. + +_Time_.--2 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel. + +[Illustration: FENNEL.] + + FENNEL.--This elegantly-growing plant, of which the Latin name + is _Anethum foeniculum_, grows best in chalky soils, where, + indeed, it is often found wild. It is very generally cultivated + in gardens, and has much improved on its original form. Various + dishes are frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful + leaves, and these are sometimes boiled in soups, although it is + more usually confined, in English cookery, to the mackerel sauce + as here given. + +FISH SAUCE. + +413. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut +ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, a few shreds of garlic and shalot, 1 +quart of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake well +every day for a fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well sealed, and in +a few days it will be fit for use. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. + + +FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH SOUPS. + +414. INGREDIENTS.--1 middling-sized lobster, 1/2 an anchovy, 1 head of +boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, cayenne, and mace to +taste; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, with +the soft parts, in a mortar; add the celery, the yolk of the hard-boiled +egg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is +nicely amalgamated. Warm the butter till it is in a liquid state; well +whisk the eggs, and work these up with the pounded lobster-meat. Make +into balls of about an inch in diameter, and fry of a nice pale brown. + +_Sufficient_, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 tureen of soup. + + +FORCEMEAT FOR COLD SAVOURY PIES. + +415. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon; salt, cayenne, +pepper, and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same of +chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful +of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them in a mortar with +the other ingredients mentioned above. Pound well, and bind with 1 or 2 +eggs which have been previously beaten and strained. Work the whole well +together, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. If the pie is not to +be eaten immediately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these would prevent +it from keeping. Mushrooms or truffles may be added. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 small pies. + +[Illustration: MARJORAM.] + + MARJORAM.--Although there are several species of marjoram, that + which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one + usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and + when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb, they have an + agreeable aromatic flavour. The winter sweet marjoram used for + the same purposes, is a native of Greece, and the pot-marjoram + is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are + favourite ingredients in soups, stuffings, &c. + +FORCEMEAT FOR PIKE, CARP, HADDOCK, AND VARIOUS KINDS OF FISH. + +416. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fat +bacon, 1 small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley; a +little onion, when liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg, and cayenne +to taste; 4 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing them +very finely; beat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the whole very +smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat, +and will be found a great improvement. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized haddock or pike. + + +FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE, &c. + +417. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, 1/4 lb. of suet, the rind +of half a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of +minced sweet herbs; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; 6 oz. of +bread crumbs, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and herbs, +taking particular care that all be very finely minced; add a seasoning +to taste, of salt, cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly together +with the bread crumbs, before wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs, +work these up with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will be +ready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice brown, in +boiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for 1/2 hour in a moderate +oven. As we have stated before, no one flavour should predominate +greatly, and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to cut with a +knife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat, it is +advisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg; +but for ordinary cooking, mincing very finely answers the purpose. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for a turkey, a moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare. + +_Note_.--In forcemeat for HARE, the liver of the animal is sometimes +added. Boil for 5 minutes, mince it very small, and mix it with the +other ingredients. If it should be in an unsound state, it must be on no +account made use of. + +[Illustration: BASIL.] + + SWEET HERBS.--Those most usually employed for purposes of + cooking, such as the flavouring of soups, sauces, forcemeats, + &c., are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory, and basil. Other + sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes of medicine and + perfumery: they are most grateful both to the organs of taste + and smelling; and to the aroma derived from them is due, in a + great measure, the sweet and exhilarating fragrance of our + "flowery meads." In town, sweet herbs have to be procured at the + greengrocers' or herbalists', whilst, in the country, the garden + should furnish all that are wanted, the cook taking great care + to have some dried in the autumn for her use throughout the + winter months. + +FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE. + +418. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of minced +savoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2 +oz. of suet; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; 6 tablespoonfuls +of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other +ingredients by recipe No. 416, and blend the whole thoroughly together. +Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir it +over the fire till it thickens, when put it into the fish, which should +have previously been cut open, and sew it up. + +_Time_.--4 or 6 minutes to thicken. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized pike. + + +FRENCH FORCEMEAT. + +419. It will be well to state, in the beginning of this recipe, that +French forcemeat, or quenelles, consist of the blending of three +separate processes; namely, panada, udder, and whatever meat you intend +using. + + +PANADA. + +420. INGREDIENTS.--The crumb of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls of white +stock, No. 107, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay-leaf, a little +minced parsley, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few mushrooms +(when obtainable), butter, the yolks of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about 1/2 hour, then +take it out, and squeeze so as to press the milk from it; put the soaked +bread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock, and set it +on one side; then put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. of butter, a slice +of lean ham cut small, with a bay-leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, &c., +in the above proportions, and fry them gently over a slow fire. When +done, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white stock, boil for 20 minutes, and +strain the whole through a sieve over the panada in the other stewpan. +Place it over the fire, keep constantly stirring, to prevent its +burning, and when quite dry, put in a small piece of butter. Let this +again dry up by stirring over the fire; then add the yolks of 2 eggs, +mix well, put the panada to cool on a clean plate, and use it when +required. Panada should always be well flavoured, as the forcemeat +receives no taste from any of the other ingredients used in its +preparation. + + +Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeats. + +421. Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; let +it stew gently till quite done, when take it out to cool. Trim all the +upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar, till +it can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes through the +strainer is one of the three ingredients of which French forcemeats are +generally composed; but many cooks substitute butter for this, being a +less troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation. + +[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR.] + + PESTLE AND MORTAR.--No cookery can be perfectly performed + without the aid of the useful instruments shown in the + engraving. For pounding things sufficiently fine, they are + invaluable, and the use of them will save a good deal of time, + besides increasing the excellence of the preparations. They are + made of iron, and, in that material, can be bought cheap; but as + these are not available, for all purposes, we should recommend, + as more economical in the end, those made of Wedgwood, although + these are considerably more expensive than the former. + +Veal Quenelles. + +422. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of veal, panada (No. 420), and +calf's udder (No. 421), 2 eggs; seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and +pounded mace, or grated nutmeg; a little flour. + +_Mode_.--Take the fleshy part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till all +the meat is separated from the sinews, and allow about 1/2 lb. for an +entree. Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar till reduced to a paste; +then roll it into a ball; make another of panada (No. 420), the same +size, and another of udder (No. 421), taking care that these three balls +be of the same _size_. It is to be remembered, that equality of _size_, +and not of weight, is here necessary. When the three ingredients are +properly prepared, pound them altogether in a mortar for some time; for +the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten +with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding a +seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended +together, mould it into balls, or whatever shape is intended, roll them +in flour, and poach in boiling water, to which a little salt should have +been added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk of +another egg, but omit the white, which only makes them hollow and puffy +inside. In the preparation of this recipe, it would be well to bear in +mind that the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned, and must +be made hard or soft according to the dishes they are intended for. For +brown or white ragouts they should be firm, and when the quenelles are +used very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in their +preparation. Their flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit, +fowl, hare, pheasant, grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, parsley, +&c. + +_Time_,--About 1/4 hour to poach in boiling water. + +_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb. of veal or other meat, with other ingredients in +proportion, for 1 entree. + +_Note_.--The French are noted for their skill in making forcemeats; one +of the principal causes of their superiority in this respect being, that +they pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Any one +with the slightest pretensions to refined cookery, must, in this +particular, implicitly follow the example of our friends across the +Channel. + + +FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP. + +(_See No_. 189.) + +423. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCEMEATS.--Take a pound and a half of lean +veal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin slices; scrape with a +knife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it +10 minutes, or until in a puree; pass it through a wire sieve (use the +remainder in stock); then take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, which +skin, shred, and chop very fine; put it in a mortar and pound it; then +add 6 oz. of panada (that is, bread soaked in milk and boiled till +nearly dry) with the suet; pound them well together, and add the veal; +season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that of +nutmeg; work all well together; then add four eggs by degrees, +continually pounding the contents of the mortar. When well mixed, take a +small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it is +delicate, firm, and of a good flavour, it is ready for use. + + +FRIED BREAD CRUMBS. + +424. Cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a cool oven +overnight, and when thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them down into fine +crumbs. Put some lard, or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan; bring +it to the boiling-point, throw in the crumbs, and fry them very quickly. +Directly they are done, lift them out with a slice, and drain them +before the fire from all greasy moisture. When quite crisp, they are +ready for use. The fat they are fried in should be clear, and the crumbs +should not have the slightest appearance or taste of having been, in the +least degree, burnt. + + +FRIED SIPPETS OF BREAD (for Garnishing many Dishes). + +425. Cut the bread into thin slices, and stamp them out in whatever +shape you like,--rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. Fry them in the same +manner as the bread crumbs, in clear boiling lard, or clarified +dripping, and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the fire. When +variety is desired, fry some of a pale colour, and others of a darker +hue. + + +FRIED BREAD FOR BORDERS. + +426. Proceed as above, by frying some slices of bread cut in any +fanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side of the sippet into the +beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on the +edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the border is completed, +arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately. + +GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c. + +427. INGREDIENTS.--1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs, +including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1 +bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, +1-1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, the +juice of half a lemon. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them into +a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add the +butter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until the +onion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and stew slowly for +1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickening +of butter and flour, put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire until +perfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-juice, give one boil, when it +will be ready for table. + +_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d per pint. + +_Sufficient_, half this quantity for two slices of salmon. + +[Illustration: SAGE.] + + SAGE.--This was originally a native of the south of Europe, but + it has long been cultivated in the English garden. There are + several kinds of it, known as the green, the red, the + small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. In cookery, its + principal use is for stuffings and sauces, for which purpose the + red is the most agreeable, and the green the next. The others + are used for medical purposes. + +PICKLED GHERKINS. + +428. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/2 oz. of +whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades of +mace, a little horseradish. This proportion of pepper, spices, &c., for +1 quart of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Let the gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 or 4 days, when +take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put them into a stone jar. Boil +sufficient vinegar to cover them, with spices and pepper, &c., in the +above proportion, for 10 minutes; pour it, quite boiling, over the +gherkins, cover the jar with vine-leaves, and put over them a plate, +setting them near the fire, where they must remain all night. Next day +drain off the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it hot over them. +Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the whole remain till quite cold. +Now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air, and in a month or +two, they will be fit for use. + +_Time_.--4 days. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. + +[Illustration: GHERKINS.] + + GHERKINS.--Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the only way in + which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them, as by + the recipe here given. Not having arrived at maturity, they have + not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers, + and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites. + +GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL. + +429. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls of +Bechamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. of +fresh butter; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender; strain them, +and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the Bechamel or gravy, +with the butter and seasoning; add the pulp from the gooseberries, mix +all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar +added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the +saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. + +_Time_.--Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a large dish of mackerel. + +_Seasonable_ from May to July. + +[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY.] + + THE GOOSEBERRY.--This useful and wholesome fruit (_Ribes + grossularia_) is thought to be indigenous to the British Isles, + and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the + eastern counties, although, when uncultivated, it is but a very + small and inferior berry. The high state of perfection to which + it has been here brought, is due to the skill of the English + gardeners; for in no other country does it attain the same size + and flavour. The humidity of the British climate, however, has + doubtless something to do with the result; and it is said that + gooseberries produced in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are + of a very superior character. Malic and citric acid blended with + sugar, produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry; and upon + the proper development of these properties depends the success + of all cooking operations with which they are connected. + +GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c. + +430. INGREDIENTS.--Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the quantity of meat +in each. + +_Mode_.--We may remark at the outset, that unless glaze is wanted in +very large quantities, it is seldom made expressly. Either of the stocks +mentioned above, boiled down and reduced very considerably, will be +found to produce a very good glaze. Put the stock into a stewpan, over a +nice clear fire; let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, when keep +stirring, to prevent its burning. The moment it is sufficiently reduced, +and comes to a glaze, turn it out into the glaze-pot, of which we have +here given an engraving. As, however, this is not to be found in every +establishment, a white earthenware jar would answer the purpose; and +this may be placed in a vessel of boiling water, to melt the glaze when +required. It should never be warmed in a saucepan, except on the +principle of the bain marie, lest it should reduce too much, and become +black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted of a pale colour, more veal +than beef should be used in making the stock; and it is as well to omit +turnips and celery, as these impart a disagreeable bitter flavour. + +TO GLAZE COLD JOINTS, &c.--Melt the glaze by placing the vessel which +contains it, into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling water; brush it +over the meat with a paste-brush, and if in places it is not quite +covered, repeat the operation. The glaze should not be too dark a +colour. (_See_ Coloured Cut of Glazed Ham, P.) + +[Illustration: GLAZE-KETTLE.] + +[Illustration: THE BAIN MARIE.] + + GLAZE-KETTLE.--This is a kettle used for keeping the strong + stock boiled down to a jelly, which is known by the name of + glaze. It is composed of two tin vessels, as shown in the cut, + one of which, the upper,--containing the glaze, is inserted into + one of larger diameter and containing boiling water. A brush is + put in the small hole at the top of the lid, and is employed for + putting the glaze on anything that may require it. + + THE BAIN MARIE.--So long ago as the time when emperors ruled in + Rome, and the yellow Tiber passed through a populous and wealthy + city, this utensil was extensively employed; and it is + frequently mentioned by that profound culinary chemist of the + ancients, Apicius. It is an open kind of vessel (as shown in the + engraving and explained in our paragraph No. 87, on the French + terms used in modern cookery), filled with boiling or nearly + boiling water; and into this water should be put all the + stewpans containing those ingredients which it is desired to + keep hot. The quantity and quality of the contents of these + vessels are not at all affected; and if the hour of dinner is + uncertain in any establishment, by reason of the nature of the + master's business, nothing is so certain a means of preserving + the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain marie. + +GREEN SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE OR DUCKLINGS. + +431. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of sorrel-juice, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 pint +of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of fresh +butter. + +_Mode_.--Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender; +mash them and press them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepan +with the above ingredients; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very +hot. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. + +_Note_.--We have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinking +that some of our readers might sometimes require it; but, at the +generality of fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served. + +[Illustration: SORREL.] + + SORREL.--We gather from the pages of Pliny and Apicius, that + sorrel was cultivated by the Romans in order to give it more + strength and flavour, and that they also partook of it sometimes + stewed with mustard, being seasoned with a little oil and + vinegar. At the present day, English cookery is not much + indebted to this plant (_Rumex Acetosa_), although the French + make use of it to a considerable extent. It is found in most + parts of Great Britain, and also on the continent, growing wild + in the grass meadows, and, in a few gardens, it is cultivated. + The acid of sorrel is very _prononce_, and is what chemists term + a binoxalate of potash; that is, a combination of oxalic acid + with potash. + +GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES. + +432. Either of the stocks, Nos. 104, 105, or 107, will be found to +answer very well for the basis of many gravies, unless these are wanted +very rich indeed. By the addition of various store sauces, thickening +and flavouring, the stocks here referred to may be converted into very +good gravies. It should be borne in mind, however, that the goodness and +strength of spices, wines, flavourings, &c., evaporate, and that they +lose a great deal of their fragrance, if added to the gravy a long time +before they are wanted. If this point is attended to, a saving of one +half the quantity of these ingredients will be effected, as, with long +boiling, the flavour almost entirely passes away. The shank-bones of +mutton, previously well soaked, will be found a great assistance in +enriching gravies; a kidney or melt, beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c. +&c., answer very well when only a small quantity is wanted, and, as we +have before observed, a good gravy need not necessarily be so very +expensive; for economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes found as +savoury and wholesome as dearer ones. The cook should also remember that +the fragrance of gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice, or +any strong essences, and that they should always be warmed in a _bain +marie_, after they are flavoured, or else in a jar or jug placed in a +saucepan full of boiling water. The remains of roast-meat gravy should +always be saved; as, when no meat is at hand, a very nice gravy in haste +may be made from it, and when added to hashes, ragouts, &c., is a great +improvement. + +[Illustration: GRAVY-KETTLE.] + + GRAVY-KETTLE.--This is a utensil which will not be found in + every kitchen; but it is a useful one where it is necessary to + keep gravies hot for the purpose of pouring over various dishes + as they are cooking. It is made of copper, and should, + consequently, be heated over the hot plate, if there be one, or + a charcoal stove. The price at which it can be purchased is set + down by Messrs. Slack at 14s. + +GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. + +433. INGREDIENTS.--Gravy, salt. + +_Mode_.--Put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under the +meat, about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire. +When the dish is full, take it away, baste the meat, and pour the gravy +into the dish on which the joint is to be served. + + SAUCES AND GRAVIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES.--Neither poultry, + butcher's meat, nor roast game were eaten dry in the middle + ages, any more than fried fish is now. Different sauces, each + having its own peculiar flavour, were served with all these + dishes, and even with the various _parts_ of each animal. + Strange and grotesque sauces, as, for example, "eggs cooked on + the spit," "butter fried and roasted," were invented by the + cooks of those days; but these preparations had hardly any other + merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make. + +A QUICKLY-MADE GRAVY. + +434. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of shin of beef, 1/2 onion, 1/4 carrot, 2 or +3 sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs, a piece of butter about the size +of a walnut; cayenne and mace to taste, 3/4 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion and +carrot, and put them into a small saucepan with the butter. Keep +stirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour, when +add the water and the remaining ingredients. Simmer for 1/2 hour, skim +well, strain, and flavour, when it will be ready for use. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d. + + A HUNDRED DIFFERENT DISHES.--Modern housewives know pretty well + how much care, and attention, and foresight are necessary in + order to serve well a little dinner for six or eight persons,--a + dinner which will give credit to the _menage_, and satisfaction + and pleasure to the guests. A quickly-made gravy, under some + circumstances that we have known occur, will be useful to many + housekeepers when they have not much time for preparation. But, + talking of speed, and time, and preparation, what a combination + of all these must have been necessary for the feast at the + wedding of Charles VI. of France. On that occasion, as Froissart + the chronicler tells us, the art of cooking, with its + innumerable paraphernalia of sauces, with gravy, pepper, + cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains, gravy soups, milk _potage_, + and ragouts, had a signal triumph. The skilful _chef-de-cuisine_ + of the royal household covered the great marble table of the + regal palace with no less than a hundred different dishes, + prepared in a hundred different ways. + +A GOOD BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, &c. + +435. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of lean beef, 1/2 pint of cold water, 1 +shalot or small onion, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1 +tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1/2 a teaspoonful +of arrowroot. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the beef into small pieces, and put it, with the water, +into a stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning, and simmer gently for 3 +hours, taking care that it does not boil fast. A short time before it is +required, take the arrowroot, and having mixed it with a little cold +water, pour it into the gravy, which keep stirring, adding the Harvey's +sauce, and just letting it boil. Strain off the gravy in a tureen, and +serve very hot. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per pint. + + +BROWN GRAVY. + +436. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. of shin of +beef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and whole pepper +to taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts of water. For thickening, 2 oz. of butter, +3 oz. of flour. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan; set this on the fire, throw in +the onions cut in rings, and fry them a light brown; then add the beef +and bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces; season, and +pour in a teacupful of water; let it boil for about ten minutes, or +until it is of a nice brown colour, occasionally stirring the contents. +Now fill up with water in the above proportion; let it boil up, when +draw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour; +strain, and when cold, take off all the fat. In thickening this gravy, +melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 2 oz. of flour, and stir till of +a light-brown colour; when cold, add it to the strained gravy, and boil +it up quickly. This thickening may be made in larger quantities, and +kept in a stone jar for use when wanted. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per pint. + + CLOVES.--This very agreeable spice is the unexpanded flower-buds + of the _Caryophyllus aromaticus_, a handsome, branching tree, a + native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the + Latin word _clavus_, or the French _clou_, both meaning a nail, + and to which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves + were but little known to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be + the only writer who mentions them; and he says, vaguely enough, + that some were brought to Rome, very similar to grains of + pepper, but somewhat longer; that they were only to be found in + India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served + in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of the + nutmeg (_see_ 378), endeavoured, when they gained possession of + the Spice Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that + the cultivation of the tree might be confined to Amboyna, their + chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all + trees found elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to + be the best, and is rare; but other kinds, nearly equally good, + are produced in other parts of the world, and they come to + Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also + from St. Kitts, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. The clove contains + about 20 per cent. of volatile aromatic oil, to which it owes + its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of + woody fibre, water, gum, and resin. + +BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT. + +437. INGREDIENTS.--2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. of butter, 3 +pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful of good +beer; salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Slice, flour, and fry the onions and carrots in the butter +until of a nice light-brown colour; then add the boiling water and the +remaining ingredients; let the whole stew gently for about an hour; then +strain, and when cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it in the same +manner as recipe No. 436, and, if thought necessary, add a few drops of +colouring No. 108. + +_Time_.--1 hour. Average cost, 2d. per pint. + +_Note_.--The addition of a small quantity of mushroom ketchup or +Harvey's sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy. + + +RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, RAGOUTS, &c. + +438. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 large onion or a few +shalots, a little flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 +or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 slice +of lean ham or bacon, 1/2 a head of celery (when at hand), 2 pints of +boiling water; salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, dredge them +with flour, and fry of a pale brown, but do not allow them to get black; +pour in the boiling water, let it boil up; and skim. Add the remaining +ingredients, and simmer the whole very gently for 2 hours, or until all +the juices are extracted from the meat; put it by to get cold, when take +off all the fat. This gravy may be flavoured with ketchup, store sauces, +wine, or, in fact, anything that may give additional and suitable relish +to the dish it is intended for. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per pint. + +[Illustration: PIMENTO.] + + ALLSPICE.--This is the popular name given to pimento, or Jamaica + pepper, known to naturalists as _Eugenia pimenta_, and belonging + to the order of Myrtaceae. It is the berry of a fine tree in the + West Indies and South America, which attains a height of from + fifteen to twenty feet: the berries are not allowed to ripen, + but, being gathered green, are then dried in the sun, and then + become black. It is an inexpensive spice, and is considered more + mild and innocent than most other spices; consequently, it is + much used for domestic purposes, combining a very agreeable + variety of flavours. + +GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT FOR FOWLS. + +439. INGREDIENTS.--The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the fowls, 1 +slice of toasted bread, 1/2 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, salt and +pepper to taste, 1/2 pint of water, thickening of butter and flour, 1 +dessertspoonful of ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean, and cut them and +the neck into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with the bread, +onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour the water over them +and simmer gently for 1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound it, and +strain the liquor to it. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and a +flavouring of mushroom ketchup; boil it up and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per pint. + + +A CHEAP GRAVY FOR HASHES, &c. + +440. INGREDIENTS.--Bones and trimmings of the cooked joint intended for +hashing, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/4 +teaspoonful of whole allspice, a small faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head +of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening, sufficient boiling +water to cover the bones. + +_Mode_.--Chop the bones in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, with +the trimmings, salt, pepper, spice, herbs, and celery. Cover with +boiling water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1-1/2 or 2 hours. +Slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown, and +mix it gradually with the gravy made from the bones; boil for 1/4 hour, +and strain into a basin; now put it back into the stewpan; flavour with +walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion liquor, or any store sauce that +may be preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour, kneaded +together on a plate, and the gravy will be ready for use. After the +thickening is added, the gravy should just boil, to take off the rawness +of the flour. + +_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. + +_Average cost_, 4d., exclusive of the bones and trimmings. + + +JUGGED GRAVY (Excellent). + +441. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 1 onion +or a few shalots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 +blade of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 a large carrot, 1/2 a +head of celery. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the beef and ham into small pieces, and slice the +vegetables; take a jar, capable of holding two pints of water, and +arrange therein, in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning, +alternately, filling up with the above quantity of water; tie down the +jar, or put a plate over the top, so that the steam may not escape; +place it in the oven, and let it remain there from 6 to 8 hours; should, +however, the oven be very hot, less time will be required. When +sufficiently cooked, strain the gravy, and when cold, remove the fat. It +may be flavoured with ketchup, wines, or any other store sauce that may +be preferred. + +It is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven over-night, to draw the +gravy; and then it will not require so long baking the following day. + +_Time_.--From 6 to 8 hours, according to the oven. + +_Average cost_, 7d. per pint. + +[Illustration: CELERY.] + + CELERY.--As in the above recipe, the roots of celery are + principally used in England for flavouring soups, sauces, and + gravies, and for serving with cheese at the termination of a + dinner, and as an ingredient for salad. In Italy, however, the + green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups, + and the seeds are also more frequently made use of on the + continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is very + highly esteemed; and it is there boiled and served up as a dish + by itself, as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes. + We ourselves think that this mild aromatic plant might oftener + be cooked than it is; for there are very few nicer vegetable + preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of + stewed celery. + +VEAL GRAVY FOR WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c. + +442. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of nicely flavoured lean ham, any poultry +trimmings, 3 lbs. of lean veal, a faggot of savoury herbs, including +parsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion may be substituted for +these), a few mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 blade of mace, salt to +taste, 3 pints of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, put these in +a stewpan, moistening them with a small quantity of water; place them +over the fire to draw down. When the bottom of the stewpan becomes +covered with a white glaze, fill up with water in the above proportion; +add the remaining ingredients, stew very slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and do +not forget to skim well the moment it boils. Put it by, and, when cold, +take off all the fat. This may be used for Bechamel, sauce tournee, and +many other white sauces. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per pint. + + +CHEAP GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL. + +443. INGREDIENTS.--Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal, +1-1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/4 +teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of 1/4 lemon; +thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, except the thickening +and lemon-juice, and let them simmer very gently for rather more than 1 +hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain through a +hair-sieve. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and the lemon-juice; +set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, when it will be ready for +use. It may be flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and, where a rather +dark-coloured gravy is not objected to, ketchup, or Harvey's sauce, may +be added at pleasure. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 3d. + + +GRAVY FOR VENISON. + +444. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank-bones, salt +to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in a +stewpan with the shank-bones and water; simmer gently for 2 hours, +strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a seasoning of salt. Let +it just boil, when it is ready to serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +[Illustration: THE DEER.] + + VENISON.--Far, far away in ages past, our fathers loved the + chase, and what it brought; and it is usually imagined that when + Isaac ordered his son Esau to go out with his weapons, his + quiver and his bow, and to prepare for him savoury meat, such as + he loved, that it was venison he desired. The wise Solomon, too, + delighted in this kind of fare; for we learn that, at his table, + every day were served the wild ox, the roebuck, and the stag. + Xenophon informs us, in his History, that Cyrus, king of Persia, + ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts; and + of the effeminate Greeks it was the delight. The Romans, also, + were devoted admirers of the flesh of the deer; and our own + kings and princes, from the Great Alfred down to the Prince + Consort, have hunted, although, it must be confessed, under + vastly different circumstances, the swift buck, and relished + their "haunch" all the more keenly, that they had borne + themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal. + +TO DRY HERBS FOR WINTER USE. + +445. On a very dry day, gather the herbs, just before they begin to +flower. If this is done when the weather is damp, the herbs will not be +so good a colour. (It is very necessary to be particular in little +matters like this, for trifles constitute perfection, and herbs nicely +dried will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on the +ground. It is hardly necessary, however, to state that the flavour and +fragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably finer.) They should be +perfectly freed from dirt and dust, and be divided into small bunches, +with their roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven, or before +the fire, as by this means most of their flavour will be preserved, and +be careful not to burn them; tie them up in paper bags, and keep in a +dry place. This is a very general way of preserving dried herbs; but we +would recommend the plan described in a former recipe. + +_Seasonable_.--From the month of July to the end of September is the +proper time for storing herbs for winter use. + +HERB POWDER FOR FLAVOURING, when Fresh Herbs are not obtainable. + +446. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of dried lemon-thyme, 1 oz. of dried winter +savory, 1 oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. of dried parsley, +1 oz. of dried lemon-peel. + +_Mode_.--Prepare and dry the herbs by recipe No. 445; pick the leaves +from the stalks, pound them, and sift them through a hair-sieve; mix in +the above proportions, and keep in glass bottles, carefully excluding +the air. This, we think, a far better method of keeping herbs, as the +flavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when they are merely +put in paper bags. Preparing them in this way, you have them ready for +use at a moment's notice. + +Mint, sage, parsley, &c., dried, pounded, and each put into separate +bottles, will be found very useful in winter. + +[Illustration: CORK WITH WOODEN TOP.] + + CORKS WITH WOODEN TOPS.--These are the best corks to use when it + is indispensable that the air should not be admitted to the + ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use. The + top, which, as will be seen by the accompanying little cut, is + larger than the cork, is made of wood; and, besides effectually + covering the whole top of the bottle, can be easily removed and + again used, as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out. + + SAVORY.--This we find described by Columella, a voluminous Roman + writer on agriculture, as an odoriferous herb, which, "in the + brave days of old," entered into the seasoning of nearly every + dish. Verily, there are but few new things under the sun, and we + don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy, at + least beyond what was known to the ancient inhabitants of Italy. + We possess two varieties of this aromatic herb, known to + naturalists as _Satureja_. They are called summer and winter + savory, according to the time of the year when they are fit for + gathering. Both sorts are in general cultivation throughout + England. + +HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with Roast Beef. + +447. INGREDIENTS.--4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonful +of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 2 +teaspoonfuls of made mustard; vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Grate the horseradish, and mix it well with the sugar, salt, +pepper, and mustard; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it the +consistency of cream, and serve in a tureen: 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of +cream added to the above, very much improve the appearance and flavour +of this sauce. To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put it in a bain +marie or a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water; make it hot, +but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. + +_Note_.--This sauce is a great improvement on the old-fashioned way of +serving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef. The mixing of the +cold vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils everything on the +plate. Of course, with cold meat, the sauce should be served cold. + +[Illustration: THE HORSERADISH.] + + THE HORSERADISH.--This has been, for many years, a favourite + accompaniment of roast beef, and is a native of England. It + grows wild in wet ground, but has long been cultivated in the + garden, and is, occasionally, used in winter salads and in + sauces. On account of the great volatility of its oil, it should + never be preserved by drying, but should be kept moist by being + buried in sand. So rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate, that + even when scraped for the table, it almost immediately spoils by + exposure to the air. + +HORSERADISH VINEGAR. + +448. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of scraped horseradish, 1 oz. of minced +shalot, 1 drachm of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a bottle, which shake well every +day for a fortnight. When it is thoroughly steeped, strain and bottle, +and it will be fit for use immediately. This will be found an agreeable +relish to cold beef, &c. + +_Seasonable_.--This vinegar should be made either in October or +November, as horseradish is then in its highest perfection. + +INDIAN CURRY-POWDER, founded on Dr. Kitchener's Recipe. + +449. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of coriander-seed, 1/4 lb. of turmeric, 2 oz. +of cinnamon-seed, 1/2 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground +ginger, 1/2 ounce of allspice, 2 oz. of fenugreek-seed. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should +remain one night; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, +and mix thoroughly together; keep the powder in a bottle, from which the +air should be completely excluded. + +_Note_.--We have given this recipe for curry-powder, as some persons +prefer to make it at home; but that purchased at any respectable shop +is, generally speaking, far superior, and, taking all things into +consideration, very frequently more economical. + + +INDIAN MUSTARD, an excellent Relish to Bread and Butter, or any cold +Meat. + +450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of the best mustard, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 +oz. of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of +ketchup, 1/4 bottle of anchovy sauce. + +_Mode_.--Put the mustard, flour, and salt into a basin, and make them +into a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil the shalots with the +vinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce, for 10 minutes, and pour the whole, +_boiling_, over the mixture in the basin; stir well, and reduce it to a +proper thickness; put it into a bottle, with a bruised shalot at the +bottom, and store away for use. This makes an excellent relish, and if +properly prepared will keep for years. + +[Illustration: MUSTARD.] + + MUSTARD.--Before the year 1729, mustard was not known at English + tables. About that time an old woman, of the name of Clements, + residing in Durham, began to grind the seed in a mill, and to + pass the flour through several processes necessary to free the + seed from its husks. She kept her secret for many years to + herself, during which she sold large quantities of mustard + throughout the country, but especially in London. Here it was + introduced to the royal table, when it received the approval of + George I. From the circumstance of Mrs. Clements being a + resident at Durham, it obtained the name of Durham mustard. In + the county of that name it is still principally cultivated, and + the plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. It is + the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive + organs, and even in its previously coarsely-pounded state, had a + high reputation with our ancestors. + +INDIAN PICKLE (very Superior). + +451. INGREDIENTS.--To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of garlic, +12 shalots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, 1/4 lb. of bruised ginger, 2 +oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 12 +cloves, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1 +oz. of turmeric; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish-pods, French +beans, gherkins, small round pickling-onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, +chilies, &c. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into slices, and +the cauliflowers into small branches; sprinkle salt over them in a large +dish, and let them remain two days; then dry them, and put them into a +very large jar, with garlic, shalots, horseradish, ginger, pepper, +allspice, and cloves, in the above proportions. Boil sufficient vinegar +to cover them, which pour over, and, when cold, cover up to keep them +free from dust. As the other things for the pickle ripen at different +times, they may be added as they are ready: these will be radish-pods, +French beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, +&c. &c. As these are procured, they must, first of all, be washed in a +little cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply added to the other +ingredients in the large jar, only taking care that they are _covered_ +by the vinegar. If more vinegar should be wanted to add to the pickle, +do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the rest. When you have +collected all the things you require, turn all out in a large pan, and +thoroughly mix them. Now put the mixed vegetables into smaller jars, +without any of the vinegar; then boil the vinegar again, adding as much +more as will be required to fill the different jars, and also cayenne, +mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard, which must be well mixed with a +little cold vinegar, allowing the quantities named above to each gallon +of vinegar. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, and when +cold, tie down with a bladder. If the pickle is wanted for immediate +use, the vinegar should be boiled twice more, but the better way is to +make it during one season for use during the next. It will keep for +years, if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered by the +vinegar. + +This recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle was +always pronounced excellent by all who tasted it, and who has, for many +years, exactly followed the recipe given above. + +__Note_.--For small families, perhaps the above quantity of pickle will +be considered too large; but this may be decreased at pleasure, taking +care to properly proportion the various ingredients. + +[Illustration: INDIA PICKLE.] + + KEEPING PICKLES.--Nothing shows more, perhaps, the difference + between a tidy thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these + desirable epithets may not honestly be applied, than the + appearance of their respective store-closets. The former is + able, the moment anything; is wanted, to put her hand on it at + once; no time is lost, no vexation incurred, no dish spoilt for + the want of "just little something,"--the latter, on the + contrary, hunts all over her cupboard for the ketchup the cook + requires, or the pickle the husband thinks he should like a + little of with his cold roast beef or mutton-chop, and vainly + seeks for the Embden groats, or arrowroot, to make one of her + little boys some gruel. One plan, then, we strenuously advise + all who do not follow, to begin at once, and that is, to label + all their various pickles and store sauces, in the same way as + the cut here shows. It will occupy a little time at first, but + there will be economy of it in the long run. + + VINEGAR.--This term is derived from the two French words _vin + aigre_, 'sour wine,' and should, therefore, be strictly applied + to that which is made only from wine. As the acid is the same, + however it is procured, that made from ale also takes the same + name. Nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of + vinegar. We learn in _Ruth_, that the reapers in the East soaked + their bread in it to freshen it. The Romans kept large + quantities of it in their cellars, using it, to a great extent, + in their seasonings and sauces. This people attributed very + beneficial qualities to it, as it was supposed to be digestive, + antibilious, and antiscorbutic, as well as refreshing. + Spartianus, a Latin historian, tells us that, mixed with water, + it was the drink of the soldiers, and that, thanks to this + beverage, the veterans of the Roman army braved, by its use, the + inclemency and variety of all the different seasons and climates + of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said, the Spanish peasantry, + and other inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe, still + follow this practice, and add to a gallon of water about a gill + of wine vinegar, with a little salt; and that this drink, with a + little bread, enables them, under the heat of their burning sun, + to sustain the labours of the field. + +INDIAN CHETNEY SAUCE. + +452. INGREDIENTS.--8 oz. of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored; 8 oz. +of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown, sugar, 8 oz. of stoned +raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, 2 +oz. of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Chop the apples in small square pieces, and add to them the +other ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in a +well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a +month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation; strain, but +do not squeeze it dry; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, +and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, that +is, from the beginning of September to the end of October. + + PICKLES.--The ancient Greeks and Romans held their pickles in + high estimation. They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and + vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which were kept, for a + long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks + prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various + ingredients were macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with + which they were often impregnated drop by drop. Meat, also, + after having been cut into very small pieces, was treated in the + same manner. + +ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown). + +453. INGREDIENTS.--A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint of +stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 +teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. + +_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and +Madeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remaining +ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, put +it in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_. (_See_ No. 430.) +The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they +will then become black. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for a small dish. + + +ITALIAN SAUCE (White). + +454. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls of +chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, +minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Bechamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few +drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of +lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and +ham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Bechamel. Let it +just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above +ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained +a nice white colour, a little cream may be added. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. + +_Note_.--To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw +them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added. + + +TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON. + +455. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart of +vinegar allow 1/2 oz. of cloves, 1/2 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of +bruised ginger, 1/4 oz. of mace and chilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/2 +stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic. + +_Mode_.--Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let them +remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts of +boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour; +take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold. +Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the above +ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of +vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. boiling +hot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for use in about 12 +months, or rather sooner. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made from November to April. + + THE LEMON.--In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not + appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became + acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it + to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would seem to + have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the + commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly + accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the + effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning + the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin + writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no + effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had + previously eaten of this fruit. + +TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL. + +456. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine salt; to each quart of +vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455. + +_Mode_.--Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to +divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in a +pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day; +then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has +become perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar. Pour over sufficient +boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredients +mentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9 +months they will be fit for use. + +_Seasonable_.--The best time to make this is from November to April. + +_Note_.--After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor +may be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemon +ketchup. + + + LEMON-JUICE.--Citric acid is the principal component part of + lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its + flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It is + likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value. + In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews + of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served + out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost + entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and + pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be + preserved for a considerable time. Italy and Turkey export great + quantities of it in this manner. + +LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. + +457. INGREDIENTS.--1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380. + +_Mode_.--Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into very +small dice. Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No. +380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it +over the fowls. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of large fowls. + + +LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c. + +458. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 +teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of +butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), +with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2 +hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice +flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour in +the above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice at +the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a little +salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed +together. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls. + +_Note_.--Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may be +substituted for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, or +rather more, of flour must be added. + +[Illustration: LEMON THYME.] + + LEMON THYME.--Two or three tufts of this species of thyme, + _Thymus citriodorus_, usually find a place in the herb + compartment of the kitchen-garden. It is a trailing evergreen, + is of smaller growth than the common kind (_see_ No. 166), and + is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the + rind of a lemon. Hence its distinctive name. It is used for some + particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is + desired to slightly predominate. + +LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes, +Soups, &c.). + +_(Author's Recipe.)_ + +459. INGREDIENTS.--Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts +of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of shalots, +3/4 oz. of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they +appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they +become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some +salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, +occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to +_each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar, +soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient +separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for +use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. + +_Seasonable_.--This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are +obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. + + +LEMON BRANDY. + +460. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz. +of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the +white pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them +infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Now boil the sugar +with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to the +brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring +for boiled custards. + + LEMON RIND OR PEEL.--This contains an essential oil of a very + high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a + wholesome and agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will be seen + by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a + number of various dishes. Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL, + it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it + becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the ancient medical + philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried + lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and + recommended to weak and delicate persons. + +LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES. + +461. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk or +cream. + +_Mode_.--Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and +strain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being added +to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keep +stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle. +It should only just simmer, but not boil. + + +LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY. + +462. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2 +pint of melted butter. No. 376. + +_Mode_.--Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the +lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very +small dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very +fine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; +season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but +do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of small fowls. + + +LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY. + +463. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced +parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376. + +_Mode_.--Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince +it very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which there +should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, with +the minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let it +just boil; when serve. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of small fowls. + + +LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c. + +(_Very Good_.) + +464. INGREDIENTS.--1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted +butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. of butter, +salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3 +tablespoonfuls of cream. + +_Mode_.--Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to +render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the +shells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will +be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. of +butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, and +cover up till wanted. Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376; +put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the +sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square +form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it +get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour would +immediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce +should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be +served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed +through a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but as +the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on +having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing the +better. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6 +persons. + +_Note_.--Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer +very well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will +be obtained. Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very +small lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and season +as above. Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and +the remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care, +be converted into a very good sauce. + + +MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it is +sent to Table. + +465. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced +parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon. + +_Mode_.--Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be +thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce, it may +be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be +served with. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d. + +Note.--4 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel, No. 367, 2 do. of white stock, No. +107, with 2 oz. of the above maitre d'hotel butter stirred into it, and +just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot +maitre d'hotel sauce. + + THE MAITRE D'HOTEL.--The house-steward of England is synonymous + with the maitre d'hotel of France; and, in ancient times, + amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo. In + Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles + necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the + spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables, + fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the + major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on + his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the + dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation, + and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the + cooks. + +MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and +different Fish. + +466. INGREDIENTS.--1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2 +shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. of +butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped +parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large +lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the +poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be +substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water, +and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is +reduced to a full 1/2 pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another +saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above +proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it +is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter +does not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, +let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce +is intended for an entree, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient +thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a small +dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c. + + +MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT). + +(Made without Meat.) + +467. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaped +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of +1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots. + +_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in the +above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 9d. per pint. + + +MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other +cold Dishes. + +468. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 +tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. + +_Mode_.--Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of +pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in +separate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continue +stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists +the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred too +frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at +hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are well +incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the +time, and it will then be ready for use. + +For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn, +pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little +parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, Tarragon, +or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they +are liked. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for a small salad. + +_Note_.--In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few +drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large +quantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certain +of the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two +essentials for making this sauce good. + + +MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb. + +469. INGREDIENTS.--4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 +dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, free +from grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and +put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the +former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours +before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with +the flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above proportion of sugar +would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have given +the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate. + +_Average cost_, 3d. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb. + +_Note_.--Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may +be substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in early +spring. + +[Illustration: MINT.] + + MINT.--The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the + _Mentha viridis_, and is employed in different culinary + processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and + afterwards withdrawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and + forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring + salads. It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on + which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup. + Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the + country. + +MINT VINEGAR. + +470. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar, mint. + +_Mode_.--Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks, +and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until the bottle +is full; _cover closely_ to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a +fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for +use, of which the corks should be sealed. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made in June, July, or August. + + +MIXED PICKLE. + +(_Very Good_.) + +471. INGREDIENTS.--To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb. of bruised +ginger, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1/4 lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, +1-1/2 oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, +cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, +nasturtiums, capsicums. + +_Mode_.--Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put as +much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders +to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, and +cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; add +all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a +warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden +spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to +it. As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and, +after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, put +them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided +into small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of +the season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables as +could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As +none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat +till 12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a +wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, must +be stirred every morning. + +_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season +arrives for the various vegetables to be picked. + + +MUSHROOM KETCHUP. + +472. INGREDIENTS.--To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb. of salt; to each +quart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2 +oz. of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they are +perfectly _fresh-gathered_ when the weather is tolerably dry; for, if +they are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they are +made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of them +in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer of +mushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, when +break them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days, +occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them as +much juice as possible. Now measure the quantity of liquor without +straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c. +Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan +of boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours. +Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar, +and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug, +where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour it +off into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do +not squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of +brandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment +behind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as +perfectly to exclude the air. When a very clear bright ketchup is +wanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or +flannel bag, _after_ it has been very gently poured off; if the +operation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite a +clear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling, +should be reboiled with a few peppercorns. + +_Seasonable_ from the beginning of September to the middle of October, +when this ketchup should be made. + +_Note_.--This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is +one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no +trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by +reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must be +boiled down to 1 pint. This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so +little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy. The sediment may +also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for +flavouring thick soups or gravies. + + HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.--The cultivated + mushroom, known as _Agaricus campestris_, may be distinguished + from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or + flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably + having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not. When + young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk + and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their + heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at + first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand + longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous kinds + are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible + mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in + woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found. + +TO DRY MUSHROOMS. + +473. _Mode_.--Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel off +the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they +will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry +place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them +gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly +their usual size. + +[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM.] + + THE MUSHROOM.--The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of + fungus, which, in England, is considered the best, and is there + usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large + proportion of them are poisonous; hence it is always dangerous + to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state. In some + parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia, and Poland, many species + grow wild, and are used as food; but in Britain, two only are + generally eaten. These are mostly employed for the flavouring of + dishes, and are also dried and pickled. CATSUP, or KETCHUP, is + made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The + young, called buttons, are the best for pickling when in the + globular form. + +BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, &c. + +474. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of good beef +gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at hand), +thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the +fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks and +wiping them free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut into +small pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons are not +obtainable; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very gently for +about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + +_Note_.--When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, the powder No. 477 may +be used as a substitute for brown sauce. + + +WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, &c. + +I. + +475. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, +lemon-juice and water, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Bechamel, No. 367, +1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice and +water, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectly +free from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with the butter. +When the mushrooms are softened, add the Bechamel, and simmer for about +5 minutes; should they, however, not be done enough, allow rather more +time. They should not boil longer than necessary, as they would then +lose their colour and flavour. Rub the whole through a tammy, and serve +very hot. After this, it should be warmed in a bain marie. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + +II. + +_A More Simple Method_. + +476. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380; +1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, if +at hand; cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it the +mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and the +stalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until +they are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let it just +boil, when serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI.--The quick growth of the + mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of + time they live, and the numerous dangers they resist while they + continue in the dormant state. To spring up "like a mushroom in + a night" is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity; and this + completely accords with all the observations which have been + made concerning this curious class of plants. Mr. Sowerby + remarks--"I have often placed specimens of the _Phallus caninus_ + by a window over-night, while in the egg-form, and they have + been fully grown by the morning." + +MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and Gravies, when fresh +Mushrooms are not obtainable). + +477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4 +oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper. + +_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and +dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all +worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but +without water; shake them over a clear fire, till all the liquor is +dried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins, and +dry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put into +small _dry_ bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry +place. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, +when it will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by this +means to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made in September, or at the beginning of +October. + +_Note_.--If the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectly +dry, as, also the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very short +time. + + +PICKLED MUSHROOMS. + +478. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each +quart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. of ground pepper, +salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub +off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks; +if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones, as +they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, with +pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over a +clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is all +dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it +simmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, +tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for +a length of time, and are generally considered delicious. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning of +September to the middle of October. + + NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM.--Locality has evidently a considerable + influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom; for it + has been discovered, after fatal experience, that some species, + which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and + pasturelands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to + grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and + vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the poison in + fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained. + +A VERY RICH AND GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Fowls or Rabbits. + +479. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a little +grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of +butter, flour to thicken. + +_Mode_.--Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt, to take off +the skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the above +ingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour; boil the +whole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of the +sauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of fowls. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + +HOW TO MIX MUSTARD. + +480. INGREDIENTS.--Mustard, salt, and water. + +_Mode_.--Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and +allowed to cool; hot water destroys its essential properties, and raw +cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with a +small pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled +water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix +well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, as +well-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-pot +should not be more than half full, or rather less if it will not be used +in a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly mixed. + + +TARTAR MUSTARD. + +481. INGREDIENTS.--Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, 1/2 a teacupful of +mustard. + +_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the above +proportion of mustard; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight seasoning +of cayenne; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, adding this a +little at a time; rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may +appear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard may be flavoured in +various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and many other vinegars, +herbs, spices, &c.; but this is more customary in France than in +England, as there it is merely considered a "vehicle of flavours," as it +has been termed. + + +PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers) + +482. INGREDIENTS.--To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6 +peppercorns, nasturtiums. + +_Mode_.--Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them clean +with a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, and +pepper in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill a +bottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit: they may +be added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin the +tops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is +to make them one season for the next. + +_Seasonable_.--Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the end +of August. + +[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.] + + NASTURTIUMS.--The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by + naturalists _Tropoeolum_, and which sometimes goes by the name + of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made + to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a + slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to + salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When + the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect + in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as + described in the above recipe. + +FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE. + +483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Bechamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning +to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham. + +_Mode_.--Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan, +with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham, +cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer +them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through +a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon, +and put them to 1/2 pint of Bechamel; keep stirring over the fire until +it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to +taste. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to boil the onions. + +_Average cost_, 10d. for this quantity. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. + + +WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c. + +484. INGREDIENTS.--9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of +melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, or +rather more. + +_Mode_.--Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt +has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4 +hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them +boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the +water after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly, +chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted +butter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, with +a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to +serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce +will be delicious. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Note_.--To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions, +which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or +3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to +improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be +cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be +kept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it is +liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be +excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations. + + +BROWN ONION SAUCE. + +485. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of good +gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the +above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not +get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer +gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the +seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back in +the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Note_.--Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of +mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine. + + HISTORY OF THE ONION.--It is not supposed that any variety of + the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild + roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in + these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and + sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first + introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it + originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually + become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (_See_ No. 139.) + +PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good). + +486. INGREDIENTS.--Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2 +teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper. + +_Mode_.--Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with the +fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife +(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions), +remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready +some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put them +in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper and +allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its +share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in +a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most +simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They +should be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions are +liable to become soft. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. + + +PICKLED ONIONS. + +487. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; to +each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful of +cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of +whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace. + +_Mode_.--Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they are +quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make a +strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and change +this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the _last_ brine they were +put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan +capable of holding them all, as they are always better done together. +Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions +were in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt, +put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly +turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to +the top, and _vice versa_; and let the milk and water run through the +holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they +do, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent. +Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be +particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander, +into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keep +in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; put +the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket; +cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain till +the next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and +shrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white +as snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining +ingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan. +Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till the +following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or +bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the +top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them +stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit +for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without the +least softness, and will keep good many months. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. + + +ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c. + +488. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or +4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, the +juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of +port wine. + +_Mode_.--Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock, +orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour or +rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel. +Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let the +whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot in +a tureen which should have a cover to it. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_ for a small tureen. + + +OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey. + +489. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of chopped suet +or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, +salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters. + +_Mode_.--Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumps +remain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finely +minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces. +Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix all +these well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Open +and beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to the +other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, work +altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed +too full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry +them, and use them as a garnish. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 turkey. + + +OYSTER KETCHUP. + +490. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of +sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a +pint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the +sherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt, +cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it +to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes, +and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle and +cork closely. The corks should be sealed. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Note_.--Cider may be substituted for the sherry. + + +PICKLED OYSTERS. + +491. INGREDIENTS.--100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade of +pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns. + +_Mode_.--Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a +saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes, +very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar, +and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:--Measure the +oyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace, +lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5 +minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down very +closely, as contact with the air spoils them. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +_Note_.--Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one is +opened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil. +The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months. + + +OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c. + +492. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with +milk, No. 380. + +_Mode_.--Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain it +into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let +them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Take +them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strain +the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pint +altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butter +is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previously +bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side of +the fire to get thoroughly hot, _but do not allow it to boil_, or the +oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes this +sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, or +anchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce _should_ be +plain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore we +recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and no +seasoning added. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1 +person, unless the party is very large. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + +A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of +oysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: this +may answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a +mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c. + + +PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c. + +493. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of +melted butter, No. 376. + +_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted, +and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been +previously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5 +minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the above +quantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted +butter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, and +serve. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the parsley. _Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not to +be had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:--Tie +up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10 +minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the melted +butter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather +fine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley. + +[Illustration: PARSLEY.] + + PARSLEY.--If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at + any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this + pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from + mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less + than Hercules; and now--was ever fall so great?--we moderns use + it in connection with the head of--a calf. According to Homer's + "Iliad," warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny + acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was + admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt, + some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by + some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians + found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles. + (See No. 123.) + +FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing. + +494. INGREDIENTS.--Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping. + +_Mode_.--Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in +a cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given an +engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two. +Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the +fire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker it +is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above +article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it +out with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it +will be ready for use. + +[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.] + + WIRE BASKET.--For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the + annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light + and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides + that described above. + +PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes. + +495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in a +cloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, and +put the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan of +boiling water, and warm it on the _bain marie_ principle just long +enough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready for +colouring. + + +TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER. + +496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly +free from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has been +slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3 +minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of +the fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it +away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour over +it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes. + +_Seasonable_.--This may be done at any time between June and October. + + +AN EXCELLENT PICKLE. + +497. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers, +and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne, +1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint +stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in +alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the +above proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. It +will be fit for use the day it is made. + +_Seasonable_ in August and September. + +[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber +to the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having +tested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spoke +very highly in its favour.] + + SOY.--This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes + from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant + called _Dolichos Soja_. The Chinese also manufacture it; but + that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of + statements have been made respecting the very general + adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many + of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable + flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour. + +PICKLED RED CABBAGE. + +498. INGREDIENTS.--Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart of +vinegar, 1/2 oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, +and, when liked, a little cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut +it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin +slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt, +covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into +a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean soft +cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the above +proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit for +use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage is +liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of a +good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made. +A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the +appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry +place. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crisp +if the frost has just touched the leaves. + + RED CABBAGE.--This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to + that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which, + however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case + with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white + vegetable that the Germans make their _sauer kraut_; a dish held + in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but + which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long + acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its + numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally + recommended for pickling. + +PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE. + +499. INGREDIENTS.--1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter, +1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and +the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and +the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy, +with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen. +This is a very rich and excellent sauce. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. for this quantity. + +_Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons. + + +QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce. + +500. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1 +pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pint +of soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously +chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes, +strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be well +sealed to exclude the air. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce. + +_Mons. Ude's Recipe_. + +501. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of +cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce, +a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick +Bechamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls +of cream; salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to +all the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly, +the sauce will be ready for use. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +READING SAUCE. + +502. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shalots, 1 +quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. of bruised +ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2 +oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves. + +_Mode_.--Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar +with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until +reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients +except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that +the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire, +and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both +jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as +you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; cover +closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar +and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when +strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above +quantities will make 1/2 gallon. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3 hours. + +_Seasonable_.--This sauce may be made at any time. + + +REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING. + +503. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt and +cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful of +tarragon or plain vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into cold +water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off the +shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add to +them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping all +well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in the +oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other +ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will be +ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this, +the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not to +cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or +diminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smaller +proportion of the former ingredient. + +GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and +colouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chili +vinegar, may be added at pleasure. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the eggs. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons. + +[Illustration: TARRAGON.] + + TARRAGON.--The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as + _Artemisia dracunculus_, are much used in France as a flavouring + ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as + tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing + their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not + seed in France. + +SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork. + +504. INGREDIENTS.--4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread +crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer +for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put +in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop +both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the +whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready +for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should +be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the +manner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however, +is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be +very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the +bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently +added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may be +dispensed with. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks. + + +505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.--Take 4 apples, peeled and +cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme not +broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them; +when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then +add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry +without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird. + + +SALAD DRESSING (Excellent). + +I. + +506. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful of +pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, +2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar, and add +the oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all these +ingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk and +vinegar, which must be added very _gradually_, or the sauce will curdle. +Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for use. If this +dressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy appearance, and +will be found very delicious with crab, or cold fried fish (the latter +cut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing salad dressings, the +ingredients cannot be added _too gradually_, or _stirred too much_. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for a small salad. + +This recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress, to whom it +was given by an intimate friend noted for her salads. + + SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND.--Three centuries ago, very few + vegetables were cultivated in England, and an author writing of + the period of Henry VIII.'s reign, tells us that neither salad, + nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other + comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the + kingdom: they came from Holland and Flanders. We further learn, + that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could not + procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was + obliged to mend this sad state of affairs, and send to Holland + for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs, in the + growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other + country in Europe. + +[Illustration: THE OLIVE.] + + THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL.--This tree assumes a high degree of + interest from the historical circumstances with which it is + connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove, + when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great + deep, and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding. + Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games + was a wreath of wild olive; and the "Mount of Olives" is + rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the + Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the + north of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced it + to Italy. In Spain and the south of France it is now cultivated; + and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in + the open air. Both in Greece and Portugal the fruit is eaten in + its ripe state; but its taste is not agreeable to many palates. + To the Italian shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine, + form a nourishing diet; but in England, olives are usually only + introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands + which have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine + may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of olives + imported to London,--the French, Spanish, and Italian: the first + are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent; the + second are larger, but more bitter; and the last are from Lucca, + and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called + olive oil, or salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual + request, more dishes being prepared with than without it, we + should imagine. With us, it is principally used in mixing a + salad, and when thus employed, it tends to prevent fermentation, + and is an antidote against flatulency. + +II. + +507. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4 +teaspoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt to +taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs until hard, which will be in about 1/4 hour or 20 +minutes; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound the +yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other ingredients, +except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole are thoroughly +incorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient vinegar to make it +of the consistency of cream, taking care to add but little at a time. +The mixture will then be ready for use. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized salad. + +_Note_.--The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will serve very well as +a garnishing to the salad. + + +III. + +508. INGREDIENTS.--1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of +mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded +sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream. + +_Mode_.--Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe, and be +very particular that the whole is well stirred. + +_Note_.--In making salads, the vegetables, &c., should never be added to +the sauce very long before they are wanted for table; the dressing, +however, may always be prepared some hours before required. Where salads +are much in request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing +for a few days' consumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble are +saved. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days. + + POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD.--The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon + of St. Paul's, who thought that an enjoyment of the good things + of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher, + wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we should + advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot + weather invites to a dish of cold lamb. May they find the + flavour equal to the rhyme.-- + + "Two large potatoes, pass'd through kitchen sieve, + Smoothness and softness to the salad give: + Of mordent mustard add a single spoon, + Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; + But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault. + To add a double quantity of salt: + Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, + And twice with vinegar procured from 'town; + True flavour needs it, and your poet begs, + The pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs. + Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl, + And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; + And, lastly, in the flavour'd compound toss + A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce. + Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat, + 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat. + Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, + And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl." + +SAUCE ALLEMANDE, or GERMAN SAUCE. + +509. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sauce tournee (No. 517), the yolks of 2 +eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it the +beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it just +simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are added +to the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a +general favourite, and is used for many made dishes. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + + +SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce). + +510. INGREDIENTS.--Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. of +anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaica +ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, 1/2 pint +of vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy. + +_Mode_.--Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through a +strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to +every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above +proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved, +then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and +boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and +soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, and +seal the corks. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July, +when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. for a quart. + + MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES.--In France, during the reign of Louis + XII., at the latter end of the 14th century, there was formed a + company of sauce-manufacturers, who obtained, in those days of + monopolies, the exclusive privilege of making sauces. The + statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous + sauce a la cameline, sold by them, was to be composed or "good + cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise, + good bread, and good vinegar." The sauce Tence, was to be made + of "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good + verjuice." May we respectfully express a hope--not that we + desire to doubt it in the least--that the English + sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate + and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various + well-known preparations. + +SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c. + +511. INGREDIENTS.--The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of +Bechamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a high seasoning of salt and +cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, until +quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Bechamel into a +stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained, +and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, but +do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will +be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at +pleasure. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of large soles. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish. + +512. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2 +tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch of +sweet herbs, 1/2 bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries +of allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled, +lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce. + +_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put them +into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in +which the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices, +and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain +it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce, +and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched by +adding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and also +glazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to the +matelote till it is dished. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that +which the French sailor (_matelot_) employed as a relish to the fish he +caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the +wine. The Norman _matelotes_ were very celebrated. + +[Illustration: THE BAY.] + + THE BAY.--We have already described (see No. 180) the difference + between the cherry-laurel (_Prunus Laurus cerasus_) and the + classic laurel (_Laurus nobilis_), the former only being used + for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen was + consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and used in + their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was the earnestly-desired + reward for great enterprises, and for the display of uncommon + genius in oratory or writing. It was more particularly sacred to + Apollo, because, according to the fable, the nymph Daphne was + changed into a laurel-tree. The ancients believed, too, that the + laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy, as + well as poetic genius; and, when they wished to procure pleasant + dreams, would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It + was the symbol, too, of victory, and it was thought that the + laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes + that of "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson being the present poet + laureate, crowned with laurel as the first of living bards. + +SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c. + +513. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small +bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 slices of +lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small +lump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots, +both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf, +spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these +ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is +covered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and put +in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 1/4 hour, skim off +every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve very +hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, although +it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the above +quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure, +according to taste. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for a medium-sized dish of cutlets. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A GOOD SAUCE FOR VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS. + +514. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, a +wineglassful of brandy or rum. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add the +pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole is +thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the +pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of the +cook or mistress. + +_Average cost_, 8d. for this quantity. + +_Sufficient_ for a pudding. + + +SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c. + +515. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4 +tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1 +teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of 1/2 +lemon. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when +browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Fry +them brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it, +and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boil +it gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar, +and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, or +whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for. + +_Time_.---Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Sufficient_ for about 2 lbs. of steak. + +_Note_.--This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast +goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes. + + +A GOOD SAUCE FOR STEAKS. + +516. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1 +oz. of salt, 1/2 oz. grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. of pickled shalots, 1 +pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle. + +_Mode_.--Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them into +the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, when +strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of the +sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy. + +_Seasonable_.--This can be made at any time. + +_Note_.--In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left a +large quantity of liquor; this should be converted into a sauce like the +above, and will be found a very useful relish. + + THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT.--Our readers will see at Nos. + 369 and 399, a description, with engravings, of the qualities of + black and long pepper, and an account of where these spices are + found. We will here say something of the manner of the growth of + the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is + usual to plant a thorny tree by its side, to which it may cling. + In Malabar, the chief pepper district of India, the jacca-tree + (_Artocarpus integrifolia_) is made thus to yield its + assistance, the same soil being adapted to the growth of both + plants. The stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support + to a considerable height; the flexile branches then droop + downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other + parts, spikes of green flowers, which are followed by the + pungent berries. These hang in large bunches, resembling in + shape those of grapes; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a + little stalk, like currants. Each berry contains a single seed, + of a globular form and brownish colour, but which changes to a + nearly black when dried; and this is the pepper of commerce. The + leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of + rather lighter colour; they partake strongly of the peculiar + smell and pungent taste of the berry. + +SAUCE TOURNEE. + +517. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of flour +and butter, or white roux (No. 526), a faggot of savoury herbs, +including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions. + +_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and +mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 1/2 hour; stir in +sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boil +for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This +sauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called +veloute. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d. + +_Note_.--If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made of +these; and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not +then admit of the fat being nicely removed. + + +SWEET SAUCE, for Venison. + +518. INGREDIENTS.--A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port +wine. + +_Mode_.--Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over the +fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not be +allowed to boil. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to melt the jelly. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. + + +SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL. + +519. INGREDIENTS.--1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamington +sauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1 +blade of mace, cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire, +and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce +in a tureen. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8d. + + +SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey. + +520. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both weighed +after being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz. +of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade of +pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other +ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. +Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal +quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found to +answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. in the latter, impart a +very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however, +like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individual +tastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination of +the cook, who should study her employer's taste in this, as in every +other respect. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for a small turkey. + + +SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES. + +521. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf's-foot, 3 lbs. of +knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game +trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of +savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little +spice; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the +ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and, +when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it +boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the +stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if +rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it +through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be +quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites +of eggs, as described in recipe No. 109. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. + + +SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish. + +522. INGREDIENTS.--1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint of +picked shrimps, cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376, shell +the shrimps (sufficient to make 1/4 pint when picked), and put them into +the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but do +not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be +added. + +_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + + +SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES. + +523. INGREDIENTS.--2 handfuls of spinach. + +_Mode_.--Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the leaves +in a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair sieve, +and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain +marie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely, +as it should not boil; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so +that all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be ready +for colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green will +be found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way. + + +HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c. + +524. INGREDIENTS.--3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon, +7 cloves, 1/2 oz. mace, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. grated nutmeg, 1-1/2 +oz. white pepper. + +_Mode_.--Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together, taking +care that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry glass +bottle for use. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should the +above not be enough to suit the palate. + +[Illustration: CINNAMON.] + + CINNAMON.--The cinnamon-tree (_Laurus Cinnamomum_) is a valuable + and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the + height of 20 or 30 feet. The trunk is short and straight, with + wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The + leaves are upon short stalks, and are of an oval shape, and 3 to + 5 inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small + petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft, + insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the kernel of + which germinates soon after it falls. The wood of the tree is + white and not very solid, and its root is thick and branching, + exuding a great quantity of camphor. The inner bark of the tree + forms the cinnamon of commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its + native island; but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China, + Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands; also in the Brazils, the + Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities. + +BROWN ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces. + +525. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of flour. + +_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and dredge in, +very gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown colour--to +obtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and impart +a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keep +it for use: it will remain good some time. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. + + +WHITE ROUX, for thickening White Sauces. + +526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the preceding +recipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux, but do not +keep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour. This +is used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use when +wanted. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_,--A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. + +_Note_.--Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour, +ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c.: the latter will be found far +preferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread, +toasted and added to gravies, answers the two purposes of thickening and +colouring them. + + +SPANISH ONIONS--PICKLED. + +527. INGREDIENTS.--Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the onions in thin slices; put a layer of them in the +bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layer +of onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till the jar +is full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the pickle +will be fit for use in a month. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had in England from September to February. + + +STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE. + +528. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic, 2 +tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of +vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients _gently_ for about 1/2 hour; strain +the liquor, and bottle off for use. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_.--This sauce can be made at any time. + + +TOMATO SAUCE--HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c. + +529. INGREDIENTS.--6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt +and cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104. + +_Mode_.--Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds out; +put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them simmer +_gently_ until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp; rub the whole +through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. The shalots and +spices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to. + +_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the tomatoes. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. + +_In full season_ in September and October. + +[Illustration: THE TOMATO.] + + TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--The plant which bears this fruit is a + native of South America, and takes its name from a Portuguese + word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato, and + is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It is sometimes + served to table roasted or boiled, and when green, makes a good + ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is esteemed as + excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, and when quite ripe, a + good store sauce may be prepared from it. + +TOMATO SAUCE FOR KEEPING (Excellent). + +I. + +530. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of cayenne +vinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. of shalots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, peeled and cut +in slices; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy, +1 pint of anchovy sauce. + +_Mode_.--Gather the tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a slow oven till +tender; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add cayenne +vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion; boil the +whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft; then rub it +through a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every six quarts +of the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce, +and boil altogether for about 20 minutes; bottle off for use, and +carefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good for 2 or 3 years, +but will be fit for use in a week. A useful and less expensive sauce may +be made by omitting the anchovy and soy. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this from the middle of September to the end of +October. + + +II. + +531. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of the best powdered +ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped fine, 2 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a small +quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this). + +_Mode_.--Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand them +in a cool oven until quite tender; when cold, take the skins and stalks +from them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar, but do not +strain it; add all the other ingredients, mix well together, and put it +into well-sealed bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it will keep +good for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the flavour is +better after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep, turn it out, +and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne. For +immediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with a +little of the different ingredients, and they will be found very nice +for hashes or stews. + +_Time_.--4 or 5 hours in a cool oven. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October. + + +III. + +532. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen tomatoes; to every pound of tomato-pulp allow +1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shalot, 2 oz. of +salt, 1 large green capsicum, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled +gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of 6 +lemons. + +_Mode_.--Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red; put them in a jar +with a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to put +them in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and examine +them in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow them to +remain in the oven long enough to break them; but they should be +sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve. Measure the +pulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above proportion of vinegar and +other ingredients, taking care to chop very fine the garlic, shalot, +capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole together till everything +is tender; then again rub it through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice. +Now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream, and keep +continually stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal the +corks. If the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked, +diminish the quantities. + +_Time_.--Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October. + +_Note_.--A quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes, which must be +put through the sieve with the rest. Keep it well stirred while on the +fire, and use a wooden spoon. + + +UNIVERSAL PICKLE. + +533. INGREDIENTS.--To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb. +of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, 1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful of +cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric. + +_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; when +cold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose, such as +radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c., as these +come into season; put them in fresh as you gather them, having +previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This pickle +will be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. + +_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for the +various vegetables. + +_Note_.--As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make,--that is to say, +nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are +added,--care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle +well covered, either with a closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder +securely tied over, so as perfectly to exclude the air. + + +PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good). + +534. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar +allow 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of bruised +ginger. + +_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts while young; be careful they are not woody, +and prick them well with a fork; prepare a strong brine of salt and +water (4 lbs. of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the +walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine every third +day; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in the sun until they +become perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 days; have ready dry +jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil +sufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10 minutes, with spices in the +above proportion, and pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite +covered with the pickle; tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place. +They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good 2 or 3 years. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, +before the walnuts harden. + +_Note_.--When liked, a few shalots may be added to the vinegar, and +boiled with it. + + +WALNUT KETCHUP. + +I. + +535. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar, +1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of +ginger, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20 +shalots, 1/4 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them, +slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, let +them stand 8 days, stirring every day; then drain the liquor from them, +and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about 1/2 hour. It may be +strained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegar +or wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal the +corks. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, when +walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes. + + +II. + +536. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt, +1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole +pepper, 1 oz. of garlic. + +_Mode_.--Put the walnut-shells into a pan, with the water, and a large +quantity of salt; let them stand for 10 days, then break the shells up +in the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a heavy weight +on the top to express the juice; place it on the fire, and remove all +scum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots, cloves, mace, +pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put +the liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork closely. It +should stand 6 months before using: should it ferment during that time, +it must be again boiled and skimmed. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ in September, when the walnut-shells are obtainable. + +[Illustration: THE WALNUT.] + + THE WALNUT.--This nut is a native of Persia, and was introduced + into England from France. As a pickle, it is much used in the + green state; and grated walnuts in Spain are much employed, both + in tarts and other dishes. On the continent it is occasionally + employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking; but it is + apt, under such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter + which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly + nutritious for poultry. It is called _mare_, and in Switzerland + is eaten under the name of _pain amer_ by the poor. The oil is + frequently manufactured into a kind of soap, and the leaves and + green husks yield an extract, which, as a brown dye, is used to + stain hair, wool, and wood. + +WHITE SAUCE (Good). + +537. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream, +1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put the +stock, which should be well flavoured with vegetables, and rather +savoury; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock, +season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gently +for about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as this +sauce is very liable to burn. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat. + +538. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 a +small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into a +stewpan with the butter; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up; +then stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil the whole gently until it +thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be ready +to serve. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method). + +539. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of rice, 1 strip of +lemon-peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter is +perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk and +rice together; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the mace and +seasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should be of the +consistency of thick cream. + +_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to boil the rice. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + + + +[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER.] + +VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +540. In Our "INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY" (_see_ No. 76) we have described +the gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery, the probability +being, that the human race, for a long period, lived wholly on fruits. +Man's means of attacking animals, even if he had the desire of +slaughtering them, were very limited, until he acquired the use of arms. +He, however, made weapons for himself, and, impelled by a carnivorous +instinct, made prey of the animals that surrounded him. It is natural +that man should seek to feed on flesh; he has too small a stomach to be +supported alone by fruit, which has not sufficient nourishment to +renovate him. It is possible he might subsist on vegetables; but their +preparation needs the knowledge of art, only to be obtained after the +lapse of many centuries. Man's first weapons were the branches of trees, +which were succeeded by bows and arrows, and it is worthy of remark, +that these latter weapons have been found with the natives of all +climates and latitudes. It is singular how this idea presented itself to +individuals so differently placed. + +541. BRILLAT SAVARIN says, that raw flesh has but one +inconvenience,--from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth. He +goes on to say, that it is not, however, disagreeable; but, when +seasoned with salt, that it is easily digested. He tells a story of a +Croat captain, whom he invited to dinner in 1815, during the occupation +of Paris by the allied troops. This officer was amazed at his host's +preparations, and said, "When we are campaigning, and get hungry, we +knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with +salt, which we always have in the sabretasche, put it under the saddle, +gallop over it for half a mile, and then dine like princes." Again, of +the huntsmen of Dauphiny it is said, that when they are out shooting in +September, they take with them both pepper and salt. If they kill a very +fat bird, they pluck and season it, and, after carrying it some time in +their caps, eat it. This, they declare, is the best way of serving it +up. + +542. SUBSEQUENTLY TO THE CROAT MODE, which, doubtless, was in fashion in +the earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was an +accident; for fire is not, although we are accustomed to call it so, an +element, or spontaneous. Many savage nations have been found utterly +ignorant of it, and many races had no other way of dressing their food +than by exposing it to the rays of the sun. + +543. THE INHABITANTS OF THE MARIAN ISLANDS, which were discovered in +1521, had no idea of fire. Never was astonishment greater than theirs +when they first saw it, on the descent of Magellan, the navigator, on +one of their isles. At first they thought it a kind of animal, that +fixed itself to and fed upon wood. Some of them, who approached too +near, being burnt, the rest were terrified, and durst only look upon it +at a distance. They were afraid, they said, of being bit, or lest that +dreadful animal should wound with his violent respiration and dreadful +breath; for these were the first notions they formed of the heat and +flame. Such, too, probably, were the notions the Greeks originally +formed of them. + +544. FIRE HAVING BEEN DISCOVERED, mankind endeavoured to make use of it +for drying, and afterwards for cooking their meat; but they were a +considerable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods of +employing it in the preparation of their food. + +545. MEAT, THEN, PLACED ON BURNING FUEL was found better than when raw: +it had more firmness, was eaten with less difficulty, and the ozmazome +being condensed by the carbonization, gave it a pleasing perfume and +flavour. Still, however, the meat cooked on the coal would become +somewhat befouled, certain portions of the fuel adhering to it. This +disadvantage was remedied by passing spits through it, and placing it at +a suitable height above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was invented; +and it is well known that, simple as is this mode of cookery, yet all +meat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly flavoured. In Homer's +time, the, art of cookery had not advanced much beyond this; for we read +in the "Iliad," how the great Achilles and his friend Patroclus regaled +the three Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat. It is +noticeable, too, that Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in +his poems. Later, however, the Jews, coming out of their captivity in +Egypt, had made much greater progress. They undoubtedly possessed +kettles; and in one of these, Esau's mess of pottage, for which he sold +his birthright, must have been prepared. + +546. HAVING THUS BRIEFLY TRACED A HISTORY OF GASTRONOMICAL PROGRESSES, +we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking meat, and +make a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in each of +the operations. + +547. IN THIS COUNTRY, plain boiling, roasting, and baking are the usual +methods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of these +simple culinary operations, we must advert to the effects that are +produced by heat on the principal constituents of flesh. When +finely-chopped mutton or beef is steeped for some time in a small +quantity of clean water, and then subjected to slight pressure, the +juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white tasteless +residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibres. When this residue is +heated to between 158 deg. and 177 deg. Fahrenheit, the fibres shrink together, +and become hard and horny. The influence of an elevated temperature on +the soluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable. When the watery +infusion, which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat, is +gradually heated, it soon becomes turbid; and, when the temperature +reaches 133 deg., flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are +_albumen_, a substance precisely similar, in all its properties, to the +white of egg (see No. 101). When the temperature of the watery extract +is raised to 158 deg., the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and the +liquid, which was originally tinged red by this substance, is left +perfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated, even at a +gentle heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquires +the flavour of roast meat. + +548. THESE INTERESTING FACTS, discovered in the laboratory, throw a +flood of light upon the mysteries of the kitchen. The fibres of meat are +surrounded by a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state, just +as it exists in the unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling or +roasting, this substance coagulates, and thereby prevents the +contraction and hardening of the fibres. The tenderness of well-cooked +meat is consequently proportioned to the amount of albumen deposited in +its substance. Meat is underdone when it has been heated throughout only +to the temperature of coagulating albumen: it is thoroughly done when it +has been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which the +colouring matter of the blood coagulates: it is overdone when the heat +has been continued long enough to harden the fibres. + +549. THE JUICE OF FLESH IS WATER, holding in solution many substances +besides albumen, which are of the highest possible value as articles of +food. In preparing meat for the table, great care should be taken to +prevent the escape of this precious juice, as the succulence and +sapidity of the meat depend on its retention. The meat to be cooked +should be exposed at first to a quick heat, which immediately coagulates +the albumen on and near the surface. A kind of shell is thus formed, +which effectually retains the whole of the juice within the meat. + +550. DURING THE OPERATIONS OF BOILING, BOASTING, AND BAKING, fresh beef +and mutton, when moderately fat, lose, according to Johnston, on an +average about-- + + In boiling. In baking. In roasting. + + 4 lbs. of beef lose 1 lb. 1 lb. 3 oz. 1 lb. 5 oz. + + 4 lbs. of mutton lose 14 oz. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 lb. 6 oz. + + +BAKING. + +[Illustration: BAKING DISH.] + +551. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ROASTING MEAT AND BAKING IT, may be +generally described as consisting in the fact, that, in baking it, the +fumes caused by the operation are not carried off in the same way as +occurs in roasting. Much, however, of this disadvantage is obviated by +the improved construction of modern ovens, and of especially those in +connection with the Leamington kitchener, of which we give an engraving +here, and a full description of which will be seen at paragraph No. 65, +with the prices at which they can be purchased of Messrs. R. and J. +Slack, of the Strand. With meat baked in the generality of ovens, +however, which do not possess ventilators on the principle of this +kitchener, there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste, which does not at all +equal the flavour developed by roasting meat. The chemistry of baking +may be said to be the same as that described in roasting. + +552. SHOULD THE OVEN BE VERY BRISK, it will be found necessary to cover +the joint with a piece of white paper, to prevent the meat from being +scorched and blackened outside, before the heat can penetrate into the +inside. This paper should be removed half an hour before the time of +serving dinner, so that the joint may take a good colour. + +553. BY MEANS OF A JAR, many dishes, which will be enumerated under +their special heads, may be economically prepared in the oven. The +principal of these are soup, gravies, jugged hare, beef tea; and this +mode of cooking may be advantageously adopted with a ham, which has +previously been covered with a common crust of flour and water. + +554. ALL DISHES PREPARED FOR BAKING should be more highly seasoned than +when intended to be roasted. There are some dishes which, it may be +said, are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster; +thus, a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast of +veal, a sucking pig, a hare, well basted, will be received by +connoisseurs as well, when baked, as if they had been roasted. Indeed, +the baker's oven, or the family oven, may often, as has been said, be +substituted for the cook and the spit with greater economy and +convenience. + +555. A BAKING-DISH, of which we give an engraving, should not be less +than 6 or 7 inches deep; so that the meat, which of course cannot be +basted, can stew in its own juices. In the recipe for each dish, full +explanations concerning any special points in relation to it will be +given. + + +BOILING. + +556. BOILING, or the preparation of meat by hot water, though one of the +easiest processes in cookery, requires skilful management. Boiled meat +should be tender, savoury, and full of its own juice, or natural gravy; +but, through the carelessness and ignorance of cooks, it is too often +sent to table hard, tasteless, and innutritious. To insure a successful +result in boiling flesh, the heat of the fire must be judiciously +regulated, the proper quantity of water must be kept up in the pot, and +the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed. + +557. MANY WRITERS ON COOKERY assert that the meat to be boiled should be +put into cold water, and that the pot should be heated gradually; but +Liebig, the highest authority on all matters connected with the +chemistry of food, has shown that meat so treated loses some of its most +nutritious constituents. "If the flesh," says the great chemist, "be +introduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of brisk +ebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes, and the pot +then placed in a warm place, so that the temperature of the water is +kept at 158 deg. to 165 deg., we have the united conditions for giving to the +flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten." When a piece of +meat is plunged into boiling water, the albumen which is near the +surface immediately coagulates, forming an envelope, which prevents the +escape of the internal juice, and most effectually excludes the water, +which, by mixing with this juice, would render the meat insipid. Meat +treated thus is juicy and well-flavoured, when cooked, as it retains +most of its savoury constituents. On the other hand, if the piece of +meat be set on the fire with cold water, and this slowly heated to +boiling, the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and nutritious +substances, while, as a matter of course, the soup becomes richer in +these matters. The albumen is gradually dissolved from the surface to +the centre; the fibre loses, more or less, its quality of shortness or +tenderness, and becomes hard and tough: the thinner the piece of meat +is, the greater is its loss of savoury constituents. In order to obtain +well-flavoured and eatable meat, we must relinquish the idea of making +good soup from it, as that mode of boiling which yields the best soup +gives the driest, toughest, and most vapid meat. Slow boiling whitens +the meat; and, we suspect, that it is on this account that it is in such +favour with the cooks. The wholesomeness of food is, however, a matter +of much greater moment than the appearance it presents on the table. It +should be borne in mind, that the whiteness of meat that has been boiled +slowly, is produced by the loss of some important alimentary properties. + +558. THE OBJECTIONS WE HAVE RAISED to the practice of putting meat on +the fire in cold water, apply with equal force to the practice of +soaking meat before cooking it, which is so strongly recommended by some +cooks. Fresh meat ought never to be soaked, as all its most nutritive +constituents are soluble in water. Soaking, however, is an operation +that cannot be entirely dispensed with in the preparation of animal +food. Salted and dried meats require to be soaked for some time in water +before they are cooked. + +559. FOR BOILING MEAT, the softer the water is, the better. When spring +water is boiled, the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness, is +precipitated. This chalk stains the meat, and communicates to it an +unpleasant earthy taste. When nothing but hard water can be procured, it +should be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is used +for culinary purposes. + +560. THE FIRE MUST BE WATCHED with great attention during the operation +of boiling, so that its heat may be properly regulated. As a rule, the +pot should be kept in a simmering state; a result which cannot be +attained without vigilance. + +561. THE TEMPERATURE AT WHICH WATER BOILS, under usual circumstances, is +212 deg. Fahr. Water does not become hotter after it has begun to boil, +however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued. This +fact is of great importance in cookery, and attention to it will save +much fuel. Water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of a +moderate heat is just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong fire +with the greatest possible violence. When once water has been brought to +the boiling point, the fire may be considerably reduced, as a very +gentle heat will suffice to keep the water at its highest temperature. + +562. THE SCUM WHICH RISES to the surface of the pot during the operation +of boiling must be carefully removed, otherwise it will attach itself to +the meat, and thereby spoil its appearance. The cook must not neglect to +skim during the whole process, though by far the greater part of the +scum rises at first. The practice of wrapping meat in a cloth may be +dispensed with if the skimming be skillfully managed. If the scum be +removed as fast as it rises, the meat will be cooked clean and pure, and +come out of the vessel in which it was boiled, much more delicate and +firm than when cooked in a cloth. + +563. WHEN TAKEN FROM THE POT, the meat must be wiped with a clean cloth, +or, what will be found more convenient, a sponge previously dipped in +water and wrung dry. The meat should not be allowed to stand a moment +longer than necessary, as boiled meat, as well as roasted, cannot be +eaten too hot. + +564. THE TIME ALLOWED FOR THE OPERATION OF BOILING must be regulated +according to the size and quality of the meat. As a general rule, twenty +minutes, reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences, may be +allowed for every pound of meat. All the best authorities, however, +agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the +operation. + +565. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF SALTED MEAT may be +properly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt +in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The +application of salt causes the fibres of the meat to contract, and the +juice to flow out from its pores: as much as one-third of the juice of +the meat is often forced out in this manner. Now, as this juice is pure +extract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and other valuable +principles, it follows that meat which has been preserved by the action +of salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat. + +566. THE VESSELS USED FOR BOILING should be made of cast-iron, well +tinned within, and provided with closely-fitting lids. They must be kept +scrupulously clean, otherwise they will render the meat cooked in them +unsightly and unwholesome. Copper pans, if used at all, should be +reserved for operations that are performed with rapidity; as, by long +contact with copper, food may become dangerously contaminated. The +kettle in which a joint is dressed should be large enough to allow room +for a good supply of water; if the meat be cramped and be surrounded +with but little water, it will be stewed, not boiled. + +567. IN STEWING, IT IS NOT REQUISITE to have so great a heat as in +boiling. A gentle simmering in a small quantity of water, so that the +meat is stewed almost in its own juices, is all that is necessary. It is +a method much used on the continent, and is wholesome and economical. + +[Illustration: BOILING-POT.] + +[Illustration: STEWPAN.] + + Two useful culinary vessels are represented above. One is a + boiling-pot, in which large joints may be boiled; the other is a + stewpan, with a closely-fitting lid, to which is attached a long + handle; so that the cover can be removed without scalding the + fingers. + +[Illustration: HOT-PLATE.] + +568. THE HOT-PLATE is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges, +being used for boiling and stewing. It is a plate of cast iron, having a +closed fire burning beneath it, by which it is thoroughly well heated. +On this plate are set the various saucepans, stewpans, &c.; and, by this +convenient and economical method, a number of dishes may be prepared at +one time. The culinary processes of braising and stewing are, in this +manner, rendered more gradual, and consequently the substance acted on +becomes more tender, and the gravy is not so much reduced. + + +BROILING. + +[Illustration: REVOLVING GRIDIRON.] + +569. GENERALLY SPEAKING, small dishes only are prepared by this mode of +cooking; amongst these, the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitary +English diner may be mentioned as celebrated all the world over. Our +beef-steak, indeed, has long crossed the Channel; and, with a view of +pleasing the Britons, there is in every _carte_ at every French +restaurant, by the side of _a la Marengo_, and _a la Mayonnaise,--bifteck +d'Angleterre_. In order to succeed in a broil, the cook must have a +bright, clear fire; so that the surface of the meat may be quickly heated. +The result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting; namely, that +a crust, so to speak, is formed outside, and thus the juices of the meat +are retained. The appetite of an invalid, so difficult to minister to, is +often pleased with a broiled dish, as the flavour and sapidity of the meat +are so well preserved. + +570. THE UTENSILS USED FOR BROILING need but little description. The +common gridiron, for which see engraving at No. 68, is the same as it +has been for ages past, although some little variety has been introduced +into its manufacture, by the addition of grooves to the bars, by means +of which the liquid fat is carried into a small trough. One point it is +well to bear in mind, viz., that the gridiron should be kept in a +direction slanting towards the cook, so that as little fat as possible +may fall into the fire. It has been observed, that broiling is the most +difficult manual office the general cook has to perform, and one that +requires the most unremitting attention; for she may turn her back upon +the stewpan or the spit, but the gridiron can never be left with +impunity. The revolving gridiron, shown in the engraving, possesses some +advantages of convenience, which will be at once apparent. + + +FRYING. + +[Illustration: SAUTE PAN.] + +571. THIS VERY FAVOURITE MODE OF COOKING may be accurately described as +boiling in fat or oil. Substances dressed in this way are generally well +received, for they introduce an agreeable variety, possessing, as they +do, a peculiar flavour. By means of frying, cooks can soon satisfy many +requisitions made on them, it being a very expeditious mode of preparing +dishes for the table, and one which can be employed when the fire is not +sufficiently large for the purposes of roasting and boiling. The great +point to be borne in mind in frying, is that the liquid must be hot +enough to act instantaneously, as all the merit of this culinary +operation lies in the invasion of the boiling liquid, which carbonizes +or burns, at the very instant of the immersion of the body placed in it. +It may be ascertained if the fat is heated to the proper degree, by +cutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying-pan for five or +six seconds; and if it be firm and of a dark brown when taken out, put +in immediately what you wish to prepare; if it be not, let the fat be +heated until of the right temperature. This having been effected, +moderate the fire, so that the action may not be too hurried, and that +by a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved, and +its flavour enhanced. + +572. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FRYING consists in this, that liquids subjected +to the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat. +Being differently constituted in their nature, they possess different +"capacities for caloric." Thus, you may, with impunity, dip your finger +in boiling spirits of wine; you would take it very quickly from boiling +brandy, yet more rapidly from water; whilst the effects of the most +rapid immersion in boiling oil need not be told. As a consequence of +this, heated fluids act differently on the sapid bodies presented to +them. Those put in water, dissolve, and are reduced to a soft mass; the +result being _bouillon_, stock, &c. (_see_ No. 103). Those substances, +on the contrary, treated with oil, harden, assume a more or less deep +colour, and are finally carbonized. The reason of these different +results is, that, in the first instance, water dissolves and extracts +the interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it; whilst, +in the second, the juices are preserved; for they are insoluble in oil. + +573. IT IS TO BE ESPECIALLY REMEMBERED, in connection with frying, that +all dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece of +blotting-paper, or sieve reversed, and there left for a few minutes, so +that any superfluous greasy moisture may be removed. + +574. THE UTENSILS USED FOR THE PURPOSES OF FRYING are confined to +frying-pans, although these are of various sizes; and, for small and +delicate dishes, such as collops, fritters, pancakes, &c., the _saute_ +pan, of which we give an engraving, is used. + + +COOKING BY GAS. + +[Illustration: GAS STOVE.] + +575. GAS-COOKING can scarcely now be considered a novelty,--many +establishments, both small and large, have been fitted with apparatus +for cooking by this mode, which undoubtedly exhibits some advantages. +Thus the heat may be more regularly supplied to the substance cooking, +and the operation is essentially a clean one, because there can be no +cinders or other dirt to be provided for. Some labour and attention +necessary, too, with a coal fire or close stove, may be saved; and, +besides this, it may, perhaps, be said that culinary operations are +reduced, by this means, to something like a certainty. + +576. THERE ARE, HOWEVER, WE THINK, MANY OBJECTIONS to this mode of +cooking, more especially when applied to small domestic establishments. +For instance, the ingenious machinery necessary for carrying it out, +requires cooks perfectly conversant with its use; and if the gas, when +the cooking operations are finished, be not turned off, there will be a +large increase in the cost of cooking, instead of the economy which it +has been supposed to bring. For large establishments, such as some of +the immense London warehouses, where a large number of young men have to +be catered for daily, it may be well adapted, as it is just possible +that a slight increase in the supply of gas necessary for a couple of +joints, may serve equally to cook a dozen dishes. + + +ROASTING. + +577. OF THE VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING MEAT, ROASTING is that which +most effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted by +being exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done by +placing the meat before an open grate, and keeping it in motion to +prevent the scorching on any particular part. When meat is properly +roasted, the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated, and thus presents +a barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting meat, the heat must be +strongest at first, and it should then be much reduced. To have a good +juicy roast, therefore, the fire must be red and vigorous at the very +commencement of the operation. In the most careful roasting, some of the +juice is squeezed out of the meat: this evaporates on the surface of the +meat, and gives it a dark brown colour, a rich lustre, and a strong +aromatic taste. Besides these effects on the albumen and the expelled +juice, roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine, +and melts the fat out of the fat-cells. + +578. IF A SPIT is used to support the meat before the fire, it should be +kept quite bright. Sand and water ought to be used to scour it with, for +brickdust and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat. When well +scoured, it must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth; and, in spitting +the meat, the prime parts should be left untouched, so as to avoid any +great escape of its juices. + +579. KITCHENS IN LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS are usually fitted with what are +termed "smoke-jacks." By means of these, several spits, if required, may +be turned at the same time. This not being, of course, necessary in +smaller establishments, a roasting apparatus, more economical in its +consumption of coal, is more frequently in use. + +[Illustration: BOTTLE-JACK, WITH WHEEL AND HOOK.] + +580. THE BOTTLE-JACK, of which we here give an illustration, with the +wheel and hook, and showing the precise manner of using it, is now +commonly used in many kitchens. This consists of a spring inclosed in a +brass cylinder, and requires winding up before it is used, and +sometimes, also, during the operation of roasting. The joint is fixed to +an iron hook, which is suspended by a chain connected with a wheel, and +which, in its turn, is connected with the bottle-jack. Beneath it stands +the dripping-pan, which we have also engraved, together with the +basting-ladle, the use of which latter should not be spared; as there +can be no good roast without good basting. "Spare the rod, and spoil the +child," might easily be paraphrased into "Spare the basting, and spoil +the meat." If the joint is small and light, and so turns unsteadily, +this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of the kitchen weights. +Sometimes this jack is fixed inside a screen; but there is this +objection to this apparatus,--that the meat cooked in it resembles the +flavour of baked meat. This is derived from its being so completely +surrounded with the tin, that no sufficient current of air gets to it. +It will be found preferable to make use of a common meat-screen, such as +is shown in the woodcut. This contains shelves for warming plates and +dishes; and with this, the reflection not being so powerful, and more +air being admitted to the joint, the roast may be very excellently +cooked. + +[Illustration: DRIPPING-PAN AND BASTING-LADLE.] + +581. IN STIRRING THE FIRE, or putting fresh coals on it, the +dripping-pan should always be drawn back, so that there may be no danger +of the coal, cinders, or ashes falling down into it. + +582. UNDER EACH PARTICULAR RECIPE there is stated the time required for +roasting each joint; but, as a general rule, it may be here given, that +for every pound of meat, in ordinary-sized joints, a quarter of an hour +may be allotted. + +[Illustration: HEAT-SCREEN.] + +583. WHITE MEATS, AND THE MEAT OF YOUNG ANIMALS, require to be very well +roasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thus +veal, pork, and lamb, should be thoroughly done to the centre. + +584. MUTTON AND BEEF, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking, +require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be dressed to the +point, that, in carving them, the gravy should just run, but not too +freely. Of course in this, as in most other dishes, the tastes of +individuals vary; and there are many who cannot partake, with +satisfaction, of any joint unless it is what others would call +overdressed. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +QUADRUPEDS. + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS. + +585. BY THE GENERAL ASSENT OF MANKIND, THE EMPIRE OF NATURE has been +divided into three kingdoms; the first consisting of minerals, the +second of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom +comprises all substances which are without those organs necessary to +locomotion, and the due performance of the functions of life. They are +composed of the accidental aggregation of particles, which, under +certain circumstances, take a constant and regular figure, but which are +more frequently found without any definite conformation. They also +occupy the interior parts of the earth, as well as compose those huge +masses by which we see the land in some parts guarded against the +encroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifies +the earth with an endless variety of form and colour. It consists of +organized bodies, but destitute of the power of locomotion. They are +nourished by means of roots; they breathe by means of leaves; and +propagate by means of seed, dispersed within certain limits. The Animal +Kingdom consists of sentient beings, that enliven the external parts of +the earth. They possess the powers of voluntary motion, respire air, and +are forced into action by the cravings of hunger or the parching of +thirst, by the instincts of animal passion, or by pain. Like the +vegetable kingdom, they are limited within the boundaries of certain +countries by the conditions of climate and soil; and some of the species +prey upon each other. Linnaeus has divided them into six +classes;--Mammalia, Birds, Fishes, Amphibious Animals, Insects, and +Worms. The three latter do not come within the limits of our domain; of +fishes we have already treated, of birds we shall treat, and of mammalia +we will now treat. + +586. THIS CLASS OF ANIMALS embraces all those that nourish their young +by means of lacteal glands, or teats, and are so constituted as to have +a warm or red blood. In it the whale is placed,--an order which, from +external habits, has usually been classed with the fishes; but, although +this animal exclusively inhabits the water, and is supplied with fins, +it nevertheless exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds. It has warm +blood, and produces its young alive; it nourishes them with milk, and, +for that purpose, is furnished with teats. It is also supplied with +lungs, and two auricles and two ventricles to the heart; all of which +bring it still closer into an alliance with the quadrupedal species of +the animal kingdom. + +587. THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAMMALIA have been frequently +noticed. The bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with hair, a +kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury, +and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and the +nature of the climate it inhabits. In all the higher orders of animals, +the head is the principal seat of the organs of sense. It is there that +the eyes, the ears, the nose, and the mouth are placed. Through the last +they receive their nourishment. In it are the _teeth_, which, in most of +the mammalia, are used not only for the mastication of food, but as +weapons of offence. They are inserted into two movable bones called +jaws, and the front teeth are so placed that their sharp edges may +easily be brought in contact with their food, in order that its fibres +may readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated the +canine teeth, or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and, +being pointed, are used to tear the food. In the back jaws are placed +another form of teeth, called grinders. These are for masticating the +food; and in those animals that live on vegetables, they are flattened +at the top; but, in carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished with +sharp-pointed protuberances. From the numbers, form, and disposition of +the teeth, the various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged. The +_nose_ is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are called +nostrils. Through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell; +and in some it is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed, +turned upwards, or bent downwards. In beasts of prey, it is frequently +longer than the lips; and in some other animals it is elongated into a +movable trunk or proboscis, whilst, in the rhinoceros tribe, it is armed +with a horn. The _eyes_ of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable +lids, on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair, called +eyelashes. The opening of the pupil is in general circular; but to some +species, as in those of the Cat and Hare, it is contracted into a +perpendicular line, whilst in the Horse, the Ox, and a few others, it +forms a transverse bar. The _ears_ are openings, generally accompanied +with a cartilage which defends and covers them, called the external +ears. In water-animals the latter are wanting; sound, in them, being +transmitted merely through orifices in the head, which have the name of +auditory-holes. The most defenceless animals are extremely delicate in +the sense of hearing, as are likewise most beasts of prey. Most of the +mammiferous animals _walk_ on four feet, which, at the extremities, are +usually divided into toes or fingers. In some, however, the feet end in +a single corneous substance called a hoof. The toes of a few end in +broad, flat nails, and of most others, in pointed claws. Some, again, +have the toes connected by a membrane, which is adapted to those that +are destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water. +Others, again, as in the Bat, have the digitations of the anterior feet +greatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a membrane, +which extends round the hinder legs and tail, and by means of which they +are enabled to rise into the air. In Man, the hand alone comprises +fingers, separate, free, and flexible; but Apes, and some other kinds of +animals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, are +the only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand. Others, +such as Rats and Squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and +flexible to enable them to pick up objects; but they are compelled to +hold them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must +rest on the fore-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they wish +to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There are +still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin, or +enveloped in corneous hoofs, and are thereby enabled to exercise no +prehensile power whatever. + +588. ACCORDING TO THE DESIGN AND END OF NATURE, mammiferous animals are +calculated, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds of +food,--some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs, or +fruits; but in their infant state, milk is the appropriate food of the +whole. That this food may never fail them, it is universally ordained, +that the young should no sooner come into the world, than the milk +should flow in abundance into the members with which the mother is +supplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a wonderful +instinct of Nature, too, the young animal, almost as soon as it has come +into life, searches for the teat, and knows perfectly, at the first, +how, by the process of suction, it will be able to extract the fluid +necessary to its existence. + +589. IN THE GENERAL ECONOMY OF NATURE, this class of animals seems +destined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animated +beings that hold their existence on the surface of the earth. To man +they are immediately useful in various ways. Some of their bodies afford +him food, their skin shoes, and their fleece clothes. Some of them unite +with him in participating the dangers of combat with an enemy, and +others assist him in the chase, in exterminating wilder sorts, or +banishing them from the haunts of civilization. Many, indeed, are +injurious to him; but most of them, in some shape or other, he turns to +his service. Of these there is none he has made more subservient to his +purposes than the common ox, of which there is scarcely a part that he +has not been able to convert into some useful purpose. Of the horns he +makes drinking-vessels, knife-handles, combs, and boxes; and when they +are softened by means of boiling water, he fashions them into +transparent plates for lanterns. This invention is ascribed to King +Alfred, who is said to have been the first to use them to preserve his +candle time-measures from the wind. Glue is made of the cartilages, +gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings of the hides. +Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest of the +calf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made the basis +of Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared from +their sinews. The hair is used in various valuable manufactures; the +suet, fat, and tallow, are moulded into candles; and the milk and cream +of the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of this animal +valuable to man, who has spared no pains to bring it to the highest +state of perfection. + +[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW.] + +[Illustration: SHORT-HORN BULL.] + +590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF THE OX, upon which man has bestowed his +highest powers of culture, there is now none takes a higher place than +that known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest ages, Great +Britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds +of cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greater +celebrity than those which have this name, and which originated, about +seventy years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spread +into the valleys of the Tweed; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland; and +southward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed the +most profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attains +sooner to maturity, and none that supplies meat of a superior quality. +The value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At the +sale of Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull +"Comet" sold for 1,000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in +1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, with nineteen bulls, fetched +L8,468. 5s.; being an average of L68. 17s. apiece. The value of such +animals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted with +the care with which they are tended, and with the anxious attention +which is paid to the purity of their breed. A modern writer, well +acquainted with this subject, says, "There are now, at least, five +hundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seven +thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book." The +necessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at first +sight, be imagined, as it tends directly to preserve the character of +the cattle, while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of the +animal thus entered. Besides, many of the Americans, and large +purchasers for the foreign market, will not look at an animal without +the breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference. Of +short-horned stock, there is annually sold from L40,000 to L50,000 worth +by public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of by +private contract. The brood is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia, +France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most of the British +colonies, and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairy +produce, wherever it is known. The quickness with which it takes on +flesh, and the weight which it frequently makes, are well known; but we +may mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to five +years old realize a weight of from 800 to 1,000 lbs. Such animals +command from the butcher from L30 to L40 per head, according to the +quality; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, of +less Weight, bring as much as L20 apiece. + +[Illustration: LONG-HORN BULL.] + +[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW.] + +591. LONG-HORNS.--This is the prevailing breed in our midland counties +and in Ireland; but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns, and +are fast being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivated +with the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they are +inferior to the others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm. + +[Illustration: ALDERNEY COW.] + +[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL.] + +592. THE ALDERNEY.--Among the dairy breeds of England, the Alderney +takes a prominent place, not on account of the quantity of milk which it +yields, but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butter +which are produced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and in +appearance it greatly resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, the +excellence of which is supposed to be, in some degree, derived from a +mixture of the Alderney blood with that breed. The distinction between +them, however, lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk which +they severally produce; that of the Alderney being rich in quality, and +that of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of the former, +however, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless. + +[Illustration: GALLOWAY BULL.] + +[Illustration: GALLOWAY COW.] + +593. SCOTTISH BREEDS.--Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to the +Highlands of Scotland; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloe +without horns; and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebrated. The +first has kept his place, and on account of the compactness of his form, +and the excellent quality of his flesh, he is a great favourite with +butchers who have a select family trade. It is alike unsuitable for the +dairy and the arable farm; but in its native Highlands it attains to +great perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which it +gathers on the sides of the mountains. The Galloway has a larger frame, +and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given place to the +short-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is pursued +with advantage. The Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy, and +for the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its native +district. In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breed +capable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butter +and cheese. It is difficult to fatten, however, and its beef is of a +coarse quality. We have chosen these as among the principal +representative breeds of the ox species; but there are other breeds +which, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity. + +[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.] + +594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by +striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a +little above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given, +the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane +is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, which +instantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some +other countries on the continent, it is also usual to deprive oxen of +life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the +neck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the same +mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by the +matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation, +if the operator be skilful. We hope and believe that those men whose +disagreeable duty it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" to +provide meat for mankind, inflict as little punishment and cause as +little suffering as possible. + +595. THE MANNER IN WHICH A SIDE OF BEEF is cut up in London, is shown in +the engraving on this page. In the metropolis, on account of the large +number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the "best of +everything," the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great, +the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for the +other parts. The consequence is, that in London the carcass is there +divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most +esteemed joints. In many places, however, where, from a greater equality +in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand and +prices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized, +there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so +large. + +596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL in which the muscles are +least called into action, is most tender and succulent; as, for +instance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the +shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, and neck, are the toughest, +driest, and least-esteemed. + +597. THE NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS in the hind and fore quarters of a +side of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are as +follows:-- + +HIND QUARTER. + +1. Sirloin.--The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron; +this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, at +entertainments, on occasion of rejoicing. + +2. Rump,--the finest part for steaks. + +3. Aitch-bone,--boiling piece. + +4. Buttock,--prime boiling piece. + +5. Mouse-round,--boiling or stewing. + +6. Hock,--stewing. + +7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat,--primest boiling piece. + +8. Thin flank,--boiling. + + +FORE QUARTER. + +9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib.--This is considered the primest +roasting piece. + +10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib,--greatly esteemed by housekeepers +as the most economical joint for roasting. + +11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib,--used for second quality of steaks. + +12. Leg-of-mutton piece,--the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the +breast. + +13. Brisket, or breast,--used for boiling, after being salted. + +14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece,--used for soups, gravies, stocks, +pies, and mincing for sausages. + +15. Shin,--stewing. + +The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to +the several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner. + +_First class_.--includes the sirloin, with the kidney suet (1), the +rump-steak piece (2), the fore-rib (9). + +_Second class_.--The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib +(10). + +_Third class_.--The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank +(8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13). + +_Fourth class_.--The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14). + +_Fifth class_.--The hock (6), the shin (15). + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + +BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +I. + +598. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1 +large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury +herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3 +tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to each +slice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portion +of the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince the +herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt. Then +put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed in +this manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour in the gravy and +ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice), +cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather +longer. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding +them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were +boiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravy +at hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very _thin_ slices. + + +II. + +599. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, +1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6 +tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes. + +_Mode_.--Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes +over the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (this +may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), well +seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, which +should be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer of +mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in the +gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bake +for 1/2 hour. This may be served in the dish, or turned out. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d. + +_Sufficient_.--A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + BEEF.--The quality of beef depends on various circumstances; + such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on + the food upon which it has been raised. Bull beef is, in + general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an + agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly + nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely + agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is + not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is + held in high estimation. The flesh of the smaller breeds is much + sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal + is about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at + about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too + young. + +BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. + +600. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk, +salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt. + +_Mode_.--Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity +of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of flour, +eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottom +of a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be well +seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of the +batter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF A LA MODE. + +(_Economical_.) + +601. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. of +clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries +of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt +to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put the +dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin. Let +it get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about. +When nicely browned all over, add _by degrees_ boiling water in the +above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole well +stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpan +closely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very _gently_, till +the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when it +will be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to +table. + +_Time_.--3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF A LA MODE. + +602. INGREDIENTS.--6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices +of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves +well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful; +salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finely +minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of +celery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the other +vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in the +following manner:--Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into long +slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then into +a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed with the same +quantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to +let in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of the +seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape. Have +ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the piece +of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables, +vinegar, and water. Let it simmer _very gently_ for 5 hours, or rather +longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once or +twice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and put +it on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add the +port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready to +serve. Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or the +meat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble. When +convenient, all kinds of stews, &c., should be cooked on a hot-plate, as +the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire. + +_Time_.--5 hours, or rather more. + +_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish. + + GOOD MEAT.--The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the + animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health, + adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a + deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity, + and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it + the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed. It is also + full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of + the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour + resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in + appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but + moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the + last-mentioned properties. + +BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE. + +603. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see +No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt. + +_Mode_.--Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is +ready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling. +Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clear +fire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In about 8 +minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smother +with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. +Serve quickly. + +_Time_.--About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + +BEEF-STEAK PIE. + +604. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt, +cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg. + +_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, that +they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectly +sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide, +allowing a _small_ piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the +meat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of +salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the dish +sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice +raised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow. Pour in +sufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see +Pastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover; +slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the +dish. Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape +that fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg; +make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about +1-1/2 hour. + + +_Time_.--In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, for this size, 3s 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +Note.--Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters +and their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet +may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified +beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object. Pieces of +underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously; +but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game. +We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the +case; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easily +helped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or two +large steaks. + +[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.] + +BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING. + +605. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste +of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the +proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour. + +_Mode_.--Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung a +little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cut +each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have given an +engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion, +leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then cover the +bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; season +with salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but +it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, and +seasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour in +sufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin. +Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the two +crusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up the +overhanging paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up +the pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4 +hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in a +jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowed +to stop boiling. When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in the +top of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to table +in the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinned +round it. Serve quickly. + +_Time_.--For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. + +Note.--Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few +oysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by a +Sussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury +puddings. It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat is +cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: on +trial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy, +than when laid in large pieces in the dish. + + BAD MEAT. In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering + acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries, + as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are + filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which, + from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a + tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more advanced stage of such + disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the + cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such + is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable + carrion. In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the + influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer + adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted + and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and + shrunk within its integuments. The flesh of animals slaughtered + whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from + previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after + death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to + the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue + or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and + soon becomes putrid. When an animal has died otherwise than by + slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar + faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added, + spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly. + +BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la +mode Francaise). + +606. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt +and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a frying or _saute_ pan, set it over the +fire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin +slices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown +colour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them +frequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not be +thick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in the +butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and place +the fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in perfection, +a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat is +generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaks +should be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry +the potatoes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meat +cannot hang to get tender. + +[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.] + +BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF. + +607. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water. + +_Mode_.--After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be ready +for use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not so +solid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours, +changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness is +obtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to cover +the meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint +(see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly. Now draw the pot to the side +of the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must only +simmer, or the meat will be hard and tough. Carefully remove the scum +from the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutes +after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and +sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef. Garnish +with a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in a +vegetable-dish. + +_Time_.--An aitch-bone of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours after the water boils; +one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to March. + +_Note_.--The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily +converted into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very few +vegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled +with the meat. + + THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.--The manner in which salt acts in + preserving meat is not difficult to understand. By its strong + affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the + substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated + solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat + then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted + by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes + the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable. + Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of + preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting + the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on + the interior of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned + operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution + of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent + action of _saltpetre_ on meat is much greater than that of salt, + and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but, + in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic + action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid + colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt. + Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that + the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a + considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the + wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the + quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with + the perfect preservation of the meat. + +BOILED ROUND OF BEEF. + +608. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water. + +_Mode_.--As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for +small families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe for +dressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16 +lbs., after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt, +skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep +the skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as +in the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to +boil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not +attended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table, +presents a very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw the +pot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done. +Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one; +pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots. (_See_ +coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet +dumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with the +beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; and +the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninviting +appearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted. These +make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table. + +_Time_.--Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs., about 3 hours after +the water boils. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter. + + +609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO +BE SERVED COLD.--Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few +pounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the +tubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it +into the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue +this process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it +remain until quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, +besides having saved the whole, of the gravy. If there is no ice, spring +water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more +frequently changed. + +_Note_.--The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; of +course allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint. + + +BEEF CAKE. + +610. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of cold +meat allow 1/4 lb. of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and +salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better), +add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix well +together. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1 +not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inch +thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravy +poured round them. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS. + +611. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt +to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce. + +_Mode_.--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of +the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from +smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the +gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for +a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of +fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, +which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or +rather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possible +with a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are +not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy +escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a +very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little +minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season +with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be +determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more +than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think, +would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition is +necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in +perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for +dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their +being served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices of +cucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent +accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish +generally reject all additions but pepper and salt. + +_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 lb. to each person; if the party consist +entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. will not be too much. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the +meat cannot hang long enough to be tender. + + DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.--We have already stated (see No. + 593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in + mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind, + however, that each county has its particular season, and that + the London and other large markets are always supplied by those + counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best + condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which + the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the + Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and + terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their + place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity of most + excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and + some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source. + +BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE. + +(Cold Meat Cookery). + +612. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, +salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed +potatoes, slices of cold roast beef. + +_Mode_.--Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and +salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup; +stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in +the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes +slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In making +the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is +sufficient gravy. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + +BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +613. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of +butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed +potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef. + +_Mode_.--Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add +the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer +gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of +mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite +hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which +should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + +BROILED BEEF-BONES. + +614. INGREDIENTS.--The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, and +cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is not +too thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, and +broil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but do +not allow them to blacken. + + +TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART. + +615. INGREDIENTS.--1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417. + +_Mode_.--Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe it +well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside +with a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of a +needle and coarse thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before a +good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eat +dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes before +serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and +red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it will +require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well as +roasted. + +_Time_.--Large heart, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Note_.--This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though +not seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and +economy. + + +BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery). + +616. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter, +cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care +not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried +greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys. +They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed, +till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion, and +seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready to +serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF.] + +COLLARED BEEF. + +617. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of +coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful of +parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury +herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rub +in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for a +week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove +all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it +thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above +proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and the +latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible, +in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broad +tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of +the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it +remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the +breakfast-table. + +_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, +and regularly rubbed and turned every day. + + +BEEF-COLLOPS. + +618. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of +gravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1 +shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers. + +_Mode_.--Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 inches +long; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Put +them in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for about 3 +minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy. +Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoning +and all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil, +for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree). + +619. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. +of butter, 1 onion minced, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of +Harvey's sauce, or lemon-juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch of +savoury herbs. + +_Mode_.--Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter in +butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a +stewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes; garnish with sippets of +toasted bread, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +620. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled +beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1 +dessertspoonful of curry powder. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the butter +into a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a lightly-brown +colour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a brisk fire +for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer, or a +spoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added; but a good curry should +not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an edging of dry boiled +rice, in the same manner as for other curries. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING. + +I. + +621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything +except game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying +nearly as well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and will +remain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin, +pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away the +impurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will +settle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it away +in jars or basins for use. + + +ANOTHER WAY. + +622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a few +minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand +to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for +use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as, +with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell. + + +ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded). + +623. INGREDIENTS.--About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1 +onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficient +vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411. + +_Mode_.--Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with sufficient +vinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning, and +let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clear +fire for about 1-1/4 hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish +sauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It may be +garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRICANDEAU OF BEEF. + +624. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin (a +piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt to +taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No. +105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 shalots, +bacon. + +_Mode_.--Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them a +seasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice, +well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with the +stock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper and +salt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover it +closely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it on +the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of +the beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made as +follows:--Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with only +the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its burning, +and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and stew it with a +small piece of butter and 4 or 6 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, for an +hour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a little sugar; and a +little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an +improvement. + +_Time_.--2 hours to gently stew the meat. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +625. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, 1/4 +lb. of butter, mashed potatoes. + +_Mode_.--Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them +gently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very +hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish with 3 +or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquor from +mixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found good. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRIED RUMP-STEAK. + +626. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, butter or clarified dripping. + +_Mode_. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to +frying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode may +be adopted; and, when properly done, the dish may really look very +inviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut rather +thinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to each. Put +some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan; let it get quite +hot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done, which will +be in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the steaks be very thick. +Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small piece of butter and a +tablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They should +be sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the steaks are entirely +spoiled. + +_Time_.--8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a very +thick one. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannot +hang to get tender._ + +_Note_.--Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner:--As +soon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water into +the frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece of +butter, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Hold +the pan over the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer, +then pour on the steak, and serve. + + A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from + a celebrated modern French work, the production of one who in + Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist:--The flesh + of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken from an + animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor + too lean. This meat, which possesses in the highest degree the + most nutritive qualities, is generally easily digested; stock is + made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed, + braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the + foundation of stock, gravies, braises, &c.; its nutritious and + succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragouts. It + is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is + truly the king of the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy; + and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized + world! + +BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +627. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt to +taste, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites +of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the above +proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, which must be melted, but +not oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites of two +well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more water must be +added. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper and +salt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into a +pan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, according to the +size. When done on one side, turn and brown them on the other. Let them +dry for a minute or two before the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. A +small quantity of finely-minced onions, mixed with the batter, is an +improvement. + +_Time_.--From 7 to 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +I. + +628. INGREDIENTS.--Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of tomato +sauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good mushroom +ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste, +a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of cold +roast beef. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with +whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted; +let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan off the +fire; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thin +slices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy; let the whole +simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough and +hard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +629. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1 +carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade of +pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of +beef; remove the outside brown and gristle; place the meat on one side, +and well stew the bones and pieces, with the above ingredients, for +about 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rather +more than 1/2 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, +and let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay in the meat, let it +get hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with sippets +of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 2d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed +potatoes browned; in which case the sippets should be omitted. Be +careful that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough. + + +TO PREPARE HUNG BEEF. + +630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without +smoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but take +care it does not begin to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, either +by dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and a +little pepper and allspice; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth, and +hang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight or more, till +it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky +flavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked in +any other way: it will keep a long time. + + +HUNTER'S BEEF. + +631. INGREDIENTS.--For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. allow 3 oz. of +saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2 +oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. bay-salt. + +_Mode_.--Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Pound +spices, salt, &c. in the above proportion, and let them be reduced to +the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients well +into it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight. +When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up +securely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at the +bottom; mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over the +pan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and, when +cold, remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it adds +greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, &c. The beef may be glazed and +garnished with meat jelly. + +_Time_.--6 hours. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Note_.--In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it +not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a +less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more +adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could not +be adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to be +preserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar, +which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great +degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is, +very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption. +Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat, +as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair +its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative +effect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a +flavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, +however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting +mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part +by weight to four of the mixture; and, perhaps, now that sugar is so +much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions +to its more frequent use is removed. + + +TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY. + +I. + +632. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste, +a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water to +soak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times; then put them on a +clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying-pan +with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown; season each +side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in the +middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon-juice and +sugar. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +633. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 1 +teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of +gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and +put it in a frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and +shalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and +fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a little +flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but not +boil any more, or the kidney would harden; serve very hot, and garnish +with croutons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it may be +omitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it. +_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices. + +_Average cost_, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +III. + +_A more Simple Method_. + +634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice +brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat, +putting in a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, pepper +and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy just +boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve. + +BOILED MARROW-BONES. + +635. INGREDIENTS.--Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured +cloth. + +_Mode_.--Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and cover +the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water. +Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of +boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil +them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on +a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones +after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add a +seasoning of pepper; when served in this manner, it must be very +expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the +preceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2 +hours. + +[Illustration: MARROW-BONES.] + + MARROW-BONES.--Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of + membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy + salts; of which, phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a + large bone, the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such + a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance, + distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow + cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and + lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid, + they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were + brought into smaller compass, they would be weaker, because the + strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its + fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, however, be + observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones; such as + the whale tribe, skate, and turtles. + +MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +636. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of +gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1/2 a +teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean +roast beef. + +_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine; add +the gravy, ale, and 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour to thicken; season with +pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the +onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat _very fine_, add it +to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets of +toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the +meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MIROTON OF BEEF. + +637. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter, +salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the cold +beef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirring +the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add the +gravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very +hot. This dish is excellent and economical. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STEWED OX-CHEEK. + +638. INGREDIENTS.--1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter and +flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, 1 +bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz. +of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili +vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port +wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce. + +_Mode_.--Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to be +eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water. +The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stewpan. Just +cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmer +till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butter +and flour, and put them into the gravy; add 2 whole onions, each stuck +with 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, 1 head +of celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black +pepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly tender; then take out +the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain the +gravy, and thicken 1-1/2 pint of it with butter and flour in the above +proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put in the pieces +of cheek; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to table +in a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy should not be very good, +add a tablespoonful of the browning, No. 108. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL. + +639. INGREDIENTS.--Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley, +salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter. + +_Mode_.--Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them into +pieces about 2 inches long; have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed with +a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the pieces of heel into +the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them until +of a nice brown in boiling butter. + +_Time_.-1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +Note.--Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy or +plainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the +liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to +give richness to soups or gravies. + + +STEWED OX-TAILS. + +640. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 +teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 a +teaspoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of +butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of +mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a +stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire; +when the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings, +the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the +tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about 2-1/2 +hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it to +the gravy, and let it boil for 1/4 hour. Strain it through a sieve into +a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup; let the +whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croutons or sippets of +toasted bread. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to stew the tails. + +_Average cost_, 9d. to 1s. 6d., according to the season. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + THE TAILS OF ANIMALS.--In the class Mammalia, the vertebral + column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and + everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands + at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length + of this column, however, varies much, and the number of + vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. + These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal + development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column. + Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at + all,--amongst certain bats for example; in other instances we + reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones. + Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use + for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the + rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, + and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some + animals, it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression. + Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms, with the + hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its + spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and + serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the + branches of trees; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an + enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for + swimming. + +A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe). + +641. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz. +of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of saltpetre. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for +1/2 hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the pickle +into a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and allow it +to remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size. It +will keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues +will take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured; and, in salting meat, +beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels. + +_Time_.--A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a +month, and be turned every day. + +[Illustration: POTTING-JAR.] + +POTTED BEEF. + +I. + +642. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water, 1/4 +lb. of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and +black pepper. + + +_Mode_.--Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from +gristle, skin, &c., and put it into a jar (if at hand, one with a lid) +with 1 tablespoonful of water. Cover it _closely_, and put the jar into +a saucepan of boiling water, letting the water come within 2 inches of +the top of the jar. Boil gently for 3-1/2 hours, then take the beef, +chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly in a +mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that will +have run from it, and a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, put +it in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed and +poured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a short +time; on the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it may +be preserved for some time. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POTTED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). + +II. + +643. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. of +butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices of +boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice +addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces and +pound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar; add a seasoning of +cayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient is +reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly +mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top a +coating of clarified butter. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and +dry outside pieces, as these do not pound well. + + PRESERVED MEATS.--When an organic substance, like the flesh of + animals, is heated to the boiling-point, it loses the property + of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal + milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for + two or three days, into a gelatinous mass; but it may be + preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid, + if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of + this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most + important branch of industry,--namely, the preparation of + preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At + Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at + Bordeaux, at Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany, + establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup, + vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in + such a manner that they retain their freshness for years. The + prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron + plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters + exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four + hours. The aliments thus acquire a stability, which one may + almost say is eternal; and when a canister is opened, after the + lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered + in taste, colour, and smell. We are indebted to the French + philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful practical application + of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive + salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health; and, in + former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives for the + want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are sorry to say + that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and, + though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated. + Dr. Lankester, who has done so much to expose the frauds of + trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says + that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food, + shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought + to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of + food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have + been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being + starved or poisoned on their way home. + +RIB OF BEEF BONES. + +(_A Pretty Dish_.) + +644. INGREDIENTS.--Rib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few slices +of carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight +covering of meat; saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season them with +pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remaining +ingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve on +a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the bones, 2d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery). + +645. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of meat +allow 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped +savoury herbs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs, +according to the quantity of meat. + +_Mode_.--Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mix +with this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the above +proportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with 1 or +2 eggs; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish the +dish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some good brown +gravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy may +be poured in the dish, round the rissoles: in this case, it will not be +necessary to send any in a tureen. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 5d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare. + +646. INGREDIENTS.--About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2 glasses +of port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of forcemeat (No. +417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice. + +_Mode_.--Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of port +wine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. Make a +forcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it up +securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glass +each of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of pounded +allspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-currant +jelly to table with it. + +_Time_.--A piece of 5 lbs. about 1-1/2 hour before a brisk fire. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +647. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoning +to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own +fat; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs; put the whole +into a roll of puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer, +should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat, by +mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puff +paste in patty-tins. + +_Time_,--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (_An Excellent Dish for a Small Family_.) + +648. INGREDIENTS.--From 5 to 10 lbs. of rib of beef, sufficient brine to +cover the meat. + +_Mode_.--Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt over +the inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and bind it +with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine should be +made by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days, turning the meat +every day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle, and put +the meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes, +when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently +until done. Remove the skewer, and replace it by a plated or silver one. +Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiled +with the meat. + +_Time_.--A small round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the water boils; +one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficient +time to salt it. + + +BRISKET OF BEEF, a la Flamande. + +649. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 or 8 lbs. of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5 +slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and +pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace. + +_Mode_.--Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle, +trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon, which +should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, +spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or water; +close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer very gently +for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for sauce, and +the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze, +with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots and +turnips, and when liked, a little cabbage; all of which must be cooked +separately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce, +pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may also be garnished with +glazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + FRENCH BEEF.--It has been all but universally admitted, that the + beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of + England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however, + one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that + this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to + that of England. This is mere vaunting on the part of our + neighbours, who seem to want _la gloire_ in everything; and we + should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of + small pretensions; but M. Curmer's book professes to be a + complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery, and + holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half + suspect that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in + the same way as did the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr. + Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described. Mr. Lewis, in + his "Physiology of Common Life," has thus revived the story of + the beef-eating son of France:--"A Frenchman was one day blandly + remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by + Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did + not find so inferior to that of England. 'I have been two times + in England,' he remarked, but I nevere find the bif so superieur + to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on + leetle pieces of stick, for one penny: but I do not find the bif + superieur.' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with + astonishment, exclaimed, 'Good heavens, sir! you have been + eating cat's meat.'" No, M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge + the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up + our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material. + +BEEF OLIVES. + +I. + +650. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of +minced savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No. +105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce, a +slight thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make +them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, and +sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced; season with +pepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with a small +skewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for by +being pressed together, they will keep their shape better; lay in the +rolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices, and over +that put a piece of paper. Stew them very _gently_ for full 2 hours; for +the slower they are done the better. Take them out, remove the skewers, +thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and flavour with any store +sauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat, and +serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per pound. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +(_Economical_.) + +651. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of underdone cold roast beef, bread +crumbs, 1 shalot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy made +from the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of +mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch +thick; sprinkle over them some bread crumbs, minced shalot, and a little +of the fat and seasoning; roll them, and fasten with a small skewer. +Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones; put in the pieces of +meat, and stew them till tender, which will be in about 1-1/4 hour, or +rather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavour the +gravy, and pour it over the meat, when it is ready to serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the beef, 2d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BROILED OX-TAIL (an Entree). + +652. INGREDIENTS.--2 tails, 1-1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, salt and +cayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces, and +put them into a stewpan, with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and, if +liked very savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently for +about 2-1/2 hours; then take them out, drain them, and let them cool. +Beat an egg upon a plate; dip in each piece of tail, and, afterwards, +throw them into a dish of bread crumbs; broil them over a clear fire, +until of a brownish colour on both sides, and serve with a good gravy, +or any sauce that may be preferred. + +_Time_.--About 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, from 9d. to 1s. 6d., +according to the season. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--These may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in a +brisk oven, after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb; and, +when brown, they are done. They must be boiled the same time as for +broiling. + + STRANGE TAILS.--Naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of + the strange tails borne by animals. In the Egyptian and Syrian + sheep, for instance, the tail grows so large, that it is not + infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to + prevent inconvenience to the animal. Thin monstrous appendage + sometimes attains a weight of seventy, eighty, or even a hundred + pounds. + +TO DRESS BEEF PALATES (an Entree). + +653. INGREDIENTS.--4 palates, sufficient gravy to cover them (No. 438), +cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful +of pickled-onion liquor, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Wash the palates, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient +water to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly tender, or until +the upper skin may be easily peeled off. Have ready sufficient gravy +(No. 438) to cover them; add a good seasoning of cayenne, and thicken +with roux, No. 625, or a little butter kneaded with flour; let it boil +up, and skim. Cut the palates into square pieces, put them in the gravy, +and let them simmer gently for 1/2 hour; add ketchup and onion-liquor, +give one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--From 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournee, good +onion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a vol-au-vent; but the +above will be found a more simple method of dressing them. + + +BEEF PICKLE, which may also be used for any kind of Meat, Tongues, or +Hams. + +654. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of +powdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water. + +_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any scum +or impurity arises, which carefully remove; when quite cold, pour it +over the meat, every part of which must be covered with the brine. This +may be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be kept for some +time, if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the ingredients. + +_Time_.--A ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight; a piece of +beef weighing 14 lbs., 12 or 15 days; a tongue, 10 days or a fortnight. + +_Note_.--For salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in only +half the quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day or +two to disgorge and effectually to get rid of the blood and slime; then +rub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients, and proceed as +above. This rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given for +salting and pickling meat. + + +TO PICKLE PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF FOR HANGING. + +655. INGREDIENTS.--For 14 lbs. of a round of beef allow 1-1/2 lb. of +salt, 1/2 oz. of powdered saltpetre; or, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. of +sugar, 4 oz. of powdered saltpetre. + +_Mode_.--Rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on 14 lbs. of +meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden tray, and turn +twice a week during 3 weeks; then bind up the beef tightly with coarse +linen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept, +for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured in a similar way, but +will require double the quantity of the salting mixture; and, if not +smoke-dried, they should be taken down from hanging after 3 or 4 weeks, +and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs, amongst dry oat-husks. + +_Time_.--2 or 3 weeks to remain in the brine; to be hung 3 weeks. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle, instead of +smoking it. + + +BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cookery). + +656. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions, pepper, +salt, and mixed spices to taste; 1/2 pint of boiling water, 3 +tablespoonfuls of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into a +stewpan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with pepper, +salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about 1/2 pint of boiling water, +and gravy in the above proportion (gravy saved from the meat answers the +purpose); let the whole stew very gently for about 2 hours, and serve +with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed in the gravy. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. + +657. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, a little salt. + +_Mode_.---The fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but the +middle-rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be well hung +(should the weather permit), and cut off the thin ends of the bones, +which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled. Put the meat +down to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into the pan, dredge +the joint with a little flour, and keep continually basting the whole +time. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this must never be done until the +joint is dished, as it draws the juices from the meat); pour the +dripping from the pan, put in a little boiling: water slightly salted, +and _strain_ the gravy over the meat. Garnish with tufts of scraped +horseradish, and send horseradish sauce to table with it (_see_ No. +447). A Yorkshire pudding (_see_ Puddings) sometimes accompanies this +dish, and, if lightly made and well cooked, will be found a very +agreeable addition. + +_Time_.--10 lbs. of beef, 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 3-1/2 to 4 +hours. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + MEMORANDA IN ROASTING.--The management of the fire is a point of + primary importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the + operation is absolutely necessary to insure a good result. When + the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire may be + small; but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the + grate. Meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted + fire, which may soon want recruiting; on the other hand, if the + heat of the fire becomes too fierce, the meat must be removed to + a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks + always fail in their roasts, though they succeed in nearly + everything else. A French writer on the culinary art says that + anybody can learn how to cook, but one must be born a roaster. + According to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be + sufficiently roasted until it has acquired, throughout the whole + mass, a temperature of 158 deg.; but poultry may be well cooked when + the inner parts have attained a temperature of from 130 deg. to + 140 deg.. This depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and + mutton contain, the colouring matter of blood not being + coagulable under 158 deg.. + +ROAST RIBS OF BEEF, Boned and Rolled (a very Convenient Joint for a +Small Family). + +658. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 ribs of beef. + +_Mode_.--Choose a fine rib of beef, and have it cut according to the +weight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat round, +secure it with wooden skewers, and, if necessary, bind it round with a +piece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack is used, put +the joint on the hook, and place it _near_ a nice clear fire. Let it +remain so till the outside of the meat is set, when draw it to a +distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which can +be ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As this +joint is solid, rather more than 1/4 hour must be allowed for each lb. +Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint to +table with gravy in the dish, and garnish with tufts of horseradish. +Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great improvement to roast beef. + +_Time_.--For 10 lbs. of the rolled ribs, 3 hours (as the joint is very +solid, we have allowed an extra 1/2 hour); for 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour. + +Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + +_Note_.--When the weight exceeds 10 lbs., we would not advise the above +method of boning and rolling; only in the case of 1 or 2 ribs, when the +joint cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. The +bones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs, and made into +stock. + + ROAST BEEF has long been a national dish in England. In most of + our patriotic songs it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs, + popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet of Frenchmen. + + "O the roast beef of old England, + And O the old English roast beef." + + This national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer + wishes to account for the valour displayed by Englishmen at sea + or on land. + +ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + +659. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see that +it is well made up about 3/4 hour before it is required, so that when +the joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin, +the weight of which should not exceed 16 lbs., as the outside would be +too much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough. Spit it or +hook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, and place +it near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe. Then +draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is +done. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the dripping-pan +of all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly salted, stir it +about, and _strain_ over the meat. Garnish with tufts of horseradish, +and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to table with it. For +carving, _see_ p. 317. + +_Time_.--A sirloin of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., about 4 or +4-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A joint of 10 lbs. for 8 or 9 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +The rump, round, and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same +manner, allowing for solid joints; 1/4 hour to every lb. + +_Note_.---The above is the usual method of roasting moat; but to have it +in perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laid +close to the fire, and when the outside is set and firm, drawn away to a +good distance, and then left to roast very slowly; where economy is +studied, this plan would not answer, as the meat requires to be at the +fire double the time of the ordinary way of cooking; consequently, +double the quantity of fuel would be consumed. + + ORIGIN OF THE WORD "SIRLOIN."--The loin of beef is said to have + been knighted by King Charles II., at Friday Hall, Chingford. + The "Merry Monarch" returned to this hospitable mansion for + Epping Forest literally "as hungry as a hunter," and beheld, + with delight, a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table. "A + noble joint!" exclaimed the king. "By St. George, it shall have + a title!" Then drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat, + and cried, with mock dignity, "Loin, we dub thee knight; + henceforward be Sir Loin!" This anecdote is doubtless + apocryphal, although the oak table upon which the joint was + supposed to have received its knighthood, might have been seen + by any one who visited Friday-Hill House, a few years ago. It + is, perhaps, a pity to spoil so noble a story; but the interests + of truth demand that we declare that _sirloin_ is probably a + corruption of _surloin_, which signifies the upper part of a + loin, the prefix _sur_ being equivalent to _over_ or _above_. In + French we find this joint called _surlonge_, which so closely + resembles our _sirloin_, that we may safely refer the two words + to a common origin. + +TO SALT BEEF. + +660. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 round of beef, 4 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of powdered +saltpetre, 2 oz. of black pepper, 1/4 lb. of bay-salt, 1/2 lb. of common +salt. _Mode_.--Rub the meat well with salt, and let it remain for a day, +to disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day, rub it well with the +above ingredients on every side, and let it remain in the pickle for +about a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from the +pickle, or smoked. + +_Time_.--1/2 round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight. +_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The aitch-bone, flank, or brisket may be salted and pickled by +any of the recipes we have given for salting beef, allowing less time +for small joints to remain in the pickle; for instance, a joint of 8 or +9 lbs. will be sufficiently salt in about a week. + +THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF. + +661. INGREDIENTS.--10 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of treacle, 1 oz. of +saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt. + +_Mode_.--Rub the beef well with the treacle, and let it remain for 3 +days, turning and rubbing it often; then wipe it, pound the salt and +saltpetre very fine, rub these well in, and turn it every day for 10 +days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth, and press it under a large +weight; have it smoked, and turn it upside down every day. Boil it, and, +on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to press it. + +_Time_.--17 days. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF SAUSAGES. + +662. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of suet allow 2 lbs. of lean beef; +seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices. + +_Mode_.--Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the beef as finely +as possible; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the whole +well together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. Many +persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped ( but this is not +necessary when the meat is minced finely.) + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BEEF-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, and Stuffed. + +663. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, forcemeat No. 417, pepper and +salt to taste, clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump of beef, +and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make a forcemeat +by recipe No. 417; spread it over _half_ of the steak; roll it up, bind +and skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat may not escape, and roast it +before a nice clear fire for about 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, should +the roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly basted with butter, +and serve with brown gravy, some of which must be poured round the +steak, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but best in winter. + + +SLICED AND BROILED BEEF--a Pretty Dish (Cold Meat Cookery). + +664. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes, a +thin batter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple; fry the parings +in a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper, until they are of a +light brown colour, and place them on a dish over some slices of beef, +which should be nicely seasoned and broiled. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to broil the meat. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SPICED BEEF (to Serve Cold). + +665. INGREDIENTS.--14 lbs. of the thick flank or rump of beef, 1/2 lb. +of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/4 lb. of pounded allspice, 1 lb. +of common salt. + +_Mode_.--Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lay for 12 hours; +then rub the saltpetre and allspice, both of which should be pounded, +over the meat, and let it remain for another 12 hours; then rub in the +salt. Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, soak it for a few hours +in water, dry with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, put a little +water at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. +If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the beef into a +deep vessel, and cover with a plate, or it will be too crisp. During the +time the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or twice. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + BAKING MEAT.--Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat, + rendering it less savoury and less agreeable than meat which has + been roasted. "Those who have travelled in Germany and France," + writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific authors, + "must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in + the flavour, or want of flavour, of the various 'roasts' served + up at the _table-d'hote_." The general explanation is, that the + German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of + England and Holland, owing to the inferiority of pasturage; and + doubtless this is one cause, but it is not the chief cause. The + meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at fault. The meat + is scarcely ever _roasted_, because there is no coal, and + firewood is expensive. The meat is therefore _baked;_ and the + consequence of this baking is, that no meat is eatable or eaten, + with its own gravy, but is always accompanied by some sauce more + or less piquant. The Germans generally believe that in England + we eat our beef and mutton almost raw; they shudder at our + gravy, as if it were so much blood. + +STEWED BEEF or RUMP STEAK (an Entree). + +666. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of beef or rump steak, 3 onions, 2 +turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 +teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 do. of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 +tablespoonful of flour. + +_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean; divide +them into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter a nice +brown on both sides. Cleanse and pare the vegetables, cut the onions and +carrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these in +the same fat that the steaks were done in. Put all into a saucepan, add +1/2 pint of water, or rather more should it be necessary, and simmer +very gently for 2-1/2 or 3 hours; when nearly done, skim well, add salt, +pepper, and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with a +tablespoonful of flour mixed with 2 of cold water. Let it boil up for a +minute or two after the thickening is added, and serve. When a +vegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful +shapes, and tomato, Harvey's sauce, or walnut-liquor may be used to +flavour the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so that +the fat may be taken off when cold; when wanted for table, it will +merely require warming through. + +_Time_.--3 hours. Average cost, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +667. INGREDIENTS.--3 roots of celery, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436, 2 onions +sliced, 2 lbs. of cold roast or boiled beef. + +_Mode_.--Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a stew-pan, with +the gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is tender, when add +the beef cut into rather thick pieces; stew gently for 10 minutes, and +serve with fried potatoes. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to January. + + +STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +668. INGREDIENTS.--A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 +oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 glass of +port wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, rather more +than 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of beef; +brown them lightly in a stewpan, with the butter and a little water; add +1/2 pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, and cover the stewpan +closely, and let it simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; then mix about a +teaspoonful of flour smoothly with a little of the liquor; add the port +wine and oysters, their liquor having been previously strained and put +into the stewpan; stir till the oysters plump, and serve. It should not +boil after the oysters are added, or they will harden. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + +STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF. + +669. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt, 6 +carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 whole +allspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of +ketchup; stock, or water. + +_Mode_.--About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over with +vinegar and salt; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient stock to cover +it (when this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it), and be +particular that the stewpan is not much larger than the meat. Skim well, +and when it has simmered very gently for 1 hour, put in the vegetables, +and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender. Draw out the +bones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower or +braised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy as required, with +a little butter and flour; add spices and ketchup in the above +proportion, give one boil, pour some of it over the meat, and the +remainder send in a tureen. + +_Time_.--rather more than 3 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may be +served as a soup, or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen. + + +STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. + +670. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 rump of beef, sufficient stock to cover it (No. +105), 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1 large +bunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste, +thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne (this +must be sparingly used), and bind and tie it firmly up with tape; put it +into a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add vinegar, +ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above proportion, +and simmer very gently for 4 or 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectly +tender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer. When +done, remove the tape, lay it into a deep dish, which keep hot; strain +and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add a glass of +port wine and any flavouring to make the gravy rich and palatable; let +it boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. This dish may be very much +enriched by garnishing with forcemeat balls, or filling up the space +whence the bone is taken with a good forcemeat; sliced carrots, turnips, +and onions boiled with the meat, are also a great improvement, and, +where expense is not objected to, it may be glazed. This, however, is +not necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat. + +_Time_.--1/2 rump stewed gently from 4 to 5 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat, may be made of the +bone and trimmings, by boiling them with water, and adding carrots, +onions, turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richer +and more savoury, half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew it in strong +stock and a little Madeira. This is an expensive method, and is not, +after all, much better than a plainer-dressed joint. + + THE BARON OF BEEF.--This noble joint, which consisted of two + sirloins not cut asunder, was a favourite dish of our ancestors. + It is rarely seen nowadays; indeed, it seems out of place on a + modern table, as it requires the grim boar's head and Christmas + pie as supporters. Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at + which the baron of beef would have appeared to great advantage. + We will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when + "England was merry England," and when hospitality was thought to + be the highest virtue. + + "The fire, with well-dried logs supplied, + Went roaring up the chimney wide; + The huge hall-table's oaken face, + Scrubb'd till it shone, the day to grace, + Bore then, upon its massive board, + No mark to part the squire and lord. + Then was brought in the lusty brawn, + By old blue-coated serving-man; + Then the grim boar's head frown'd on high, + Crested with bays and rosemary. + Well can the green-garb'd ranger tell + How, when, and where the monster fell; + What dogs before his death he tore, + And all the baiting of the boar; + While round the merry wassel bowl, + Garnish'd with ribbons, blithe did trowl. + There the huge sirloin reek'd; hard by + Plum-porridge stood, and Christmas pie; + Nor fail'd old Scotland to produce, + At such high tide, her savoury goose." + + When a lord's son came of age, in the olden time, the baron of + beef was too small a joint, by many degrees, to satisfy the + retainers who would flock to the hall; a whole ox was therefore + generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs. We may here + mention, that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen Thames, in + the early part of the present century. + +STEWED SHIN OF BEEF. + +671. INGREDIENTS.--A shin of beef, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a faggot +of savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole +black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, thickening of +butter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls +of port wine; pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Have the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water, +bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the surface. +Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice, and seasoning, and simmer very +gently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables, cut them into any +shape fancy may dictate, and boil them with the onions until tender; +lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keep hot, and thicken with +butter and flour as much of the liquor as will be wanted for gravy; keep +stirring till it boils, then strain and skim. Put the gravy back in the +stewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, and ketchup, give one boil, and +pour it over the beef; garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips, and +onions. + +_Time_.--The meat to be stewed about 4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per +lb. with bone. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely but Savoury Dish). + +672. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 1 sheep's kidney, pepper and +salt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls +of flour, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces, and +put them into a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper; mix +the flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent its being +lumpy; add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which should be well beaten; +put in the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and pour it over +the steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately, and bake for +1-1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substituted +for the steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible quantity of minced +onion or shalot may be added. + + +BOILED TONGUE. + +673. INGREDIENTS.--1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water. + +_Mode_.--In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried or +pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being +young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least for +12 hours previous to cooking it; if, however, it is fresh from the +pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in sock. Put +the tongue in a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury +herbs; let it gradually come to a boil, skim well and simmer very gently +until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliflowers or +Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent to table +with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is, by many persons, preferred. +If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board by +sticking a fork through the root, and another through the top, to +straighten it. When cold, glaze it, and put a paper ruche round the +root, and garnish with tufts of parsley. + +_Time_.--A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4-1/2 hours; a small one, 2-1/2 to +3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3-1/2 hours; a small one, 2 to +2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, for a moderate sized tongue, 3s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO CURE TONGUES. + +I. + +674. INGREDIENTS.--For a tongue of 7 lbs., 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 oz. +of black pepper, 4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, 6 oz. of +salt. + +_Mode_.--Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let it +remain in the pickle for 10 days or a fortnight; then drain it, tie it +up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a wood +fire; or it may be boiled out of this pickle. + +_Time_.--From 10 to 14 days to remain in the pickle; to be smoked 24 +days. + +_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--If not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep 3 or 4 weeks +without being too salt; then it must not be rubbed, but only turned in +the pickle. + + +II. + +675. INGREDIENTS.--9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of sugar, 9 oz. of powdered +saltpetre. + +_Mode_.--Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep them +in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain them +from the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them smoked for about +3 weeks. + +_Time_.--The tongues to remain in pickle 2 months; to be smoked 3 weeks. + +_Sufficient_.--The above quantity of brine sufficient for 12 tongues, of +5 lbs. each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: BEEF TONGUE.] + + THE TONGUES OF ANIMALS.--The tongue, whether in the ox or in + man, is the seat of the sense of taste. This sense warns the + animal against swallowing deleterious substances. Dr. Carpenter + says, that, among the lower animals, the instinctive perceptions + connected with this sense, are much more remarkable than our + own; thus, an omnivorous monkey will seldom touch fruits of a + poisonous character, although their taste may be agreeable. + However this may be, man's instinct has decided that ox-tongue + is better than horse-tongue; nevertheless, the latter is + frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The + horse's tongue may be readily distinguished by a spoon-like + expansion at its end. + +TO PICKLE AND DRESS A TONGUE TO EAT COLD. + +676. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, +3 oz. of coarse sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; butter, +common crust of flour and water. + +_Mode_.--Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn it +every day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded; put it +into a small pan just large enough to hold it, place some pieces of +butter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven until +so tender that a straw would penetrate it; take off the skin, fasten it +down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and another +through the tip, at the same time straightening it and putting it into +shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, which is +generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley. + +_Time_.--From 3 or 4 hours in a slow oven, according to size. + +_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO DRESS TRIPE. + +677. INGREDIENTS.--Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk and water. + +_Mode_.--Ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned +and dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal proportions +of milk and water for 3/4 hour. Should the tripe be entirely undressed, +more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have ready some +onion sauce made by recipe No. 4S4, dish the tripe, smother it with the +sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--1 hour: for undressed tripe, from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways: it may be cut in +pieces and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut into +collops, sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs, and fried a nice +brown in clarified butter. + + +BEEF CARVING. + +AITCHBONE OF BEEF. + +A boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as will +be seen on reference to the accompanying engraving. By following with +the knife the direction of the line from 1 to 2, nice slices will be +easily cut. It may be necessary, as in a round of beef, to cut a thick +slice off the outside before commencing to serve. + +[Illustration] + +BRISKET OF BEEF. + +There is but little description necessary to add, to show the carving of +a boiled brisket of beef, beyond the engraving here inserted. The only +point to be observed is, that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly +quite across the bones, so that, on its reappearance at table, it should +not have a jagged and untidy look. + +[Illustration] + +RIBS OF BEEF. + +This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or +undercut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off, +salted and boiled. The mode of carving is similar to that of the +sirloin, viz., in the direction of the dotted line from 1 to 2. This +joint will be the more easily cut if the plan be pursued which is +suggested in carving the sirloin; namely, the inserting of the knife +immediately between the bone and the moat, before commencing to cut it +into slices. All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin +slices. Horseradish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish; but +horseradish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef. + +[Illustration] + +SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + +This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it to +come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the +undercut, uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that most +usually adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten when hot; +consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint, and cut some +slices from the under side, in the direction of from 1 to 2, as the +fillet is very much preferred by some eaters. The upper part of the +sirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and care +should be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices. It will be found +a great assistance, in carving this joint well, if the knife be first +inserted just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along +between the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in +the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away +more readily. + +[Illustration] + +Some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across, as shown by the +line from 3 to 4; but this is a wasteful plan, and one not to be +recommended. With the sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish is +usually served, and a little given, when liked, to each guest. +Horseradish sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate, +although the scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish. + +[Illustration] + +A ROUND OF BEEF. + +A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef, +and to manage it properly, a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is +necessary. Off the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick slice +should first be cut, so as to leave the surface smooth; then thin and +even slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line 1 to +2; and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel of the fat should +be served. + +[Illustration] + +BEEF TONGUE. + +Passing the knife down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a not too thin +slice should be helped; and the carving of a tongue may be continued in +this way until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fat +which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning the +tongue, and cutting in the direction of from 3 to 4. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB. + +678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, without +exception, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary to +his health and comfort; for it not only supplies him with the lightest +and most nutritious of meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udder +yields him milk, cream, and a sound though inferior cheese; while from +its fat he obtains light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere, +blankets, gloves, and hose. Its bones when burnt make an animal +charcoal--ivory black--to polish his boots, and when powdered, a manure +for the cultivation of his wheat; the skin, either split or whole, is +made into a mat for his carriage, a housing for his horse, or a lining +for his hat, and many other useful purposes besides, being extensively +employed in the manufacture of parchment; and finally, when oppressed by +care and sorrow, the harmonious strains that carry such soothing +contentment to the heart, are elicited from the musical strings, +prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep. + +679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to maintain an +average stock of 32,000,000, belongs to the class already indicated +under the ox,--the _Mammalia_; to the order of _Rumenantia_, or +cud-chewing animal; to the tribe of _Capridae_, or horned quadrupeds; +and the genus _Ovis_, or the "sheep." The sheep may be either with or +without horns; when present, however, they have always this peculiarity, +that they spring from a triangular base, are spiral in form, and +lateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The fleece of the sheep +is of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly; the wool +always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, and +amount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The generic +peculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the +horns, always larger in the male when present, but absent in the most +cultivated species; having sinuses at the base of all the toes of the +four feet, with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinal +teats to the udder, with a short tail in the wild breed, but of varying +length in the domesticated; have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw, but +in their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum, on +which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds; in the +lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side of +both jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two coats, one +to keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water without +wetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of which +depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock; +the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is in +excess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention +with which the animal is treated. + +680. THE GREAT OBJECT OF THE GRAZIER is to procure an animal that will +yield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time; or, in other +words, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine +fleece. All sheep will not do this alike; some, like men, are so +restless and irritable, that no system of feeding, however good, will +develop their frames or make them fat. The system adopted by the breeder +to obtain a valuable animal for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacity +and functions of the digestive organs, and reduce those of the head and +chest, or the mental and respiratory organs. In the first place, the +mind should be tranquillized, and those spaces that can never produce +animal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as in the abdomen, +for those that can. And as nothing militates against the fattening +process so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is to +find a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself, +leaping his wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambols +of his silly companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, and +then seeking a shady nook, indolently and luxuriously chows his cud with +closed eyes and blissful satisfaction, only rising when his delicious +repast is ended, to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat the +pleasing process of laying in more provender, and then returning to his +dreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination. Such animals +are said to have a _lymphatic_ temperament, and are of so kindly a +nature, that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily. The +Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented +animal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits, of the +restless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland counties +would take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while one +day's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would +probably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded +Leicester. + +681. THE MORE REMOVED FROM THE NATURE of the animal is the food on which +it lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and the +more complex the chain of digestive organs; for it must be evident to +all, that the same apparatus that converts _flesh_ into _flesh_, is +hardly calculated to transmute _grass_ into flesh. As the process of +digestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple, these organs are +found to be remarkably short, seldom exceeding the length of the +animal's body; while, where digestion is more difficult, from the +unassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant order, the +alimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is _twenty-seven times +the length of the body._ The digestive organ in all ruminant animals +consists of _four stomachs_, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided by +doorways and valves into four compartments, called, in their order of +position, the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When +the sheep nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, he +is, in fact, only preparing the raw material of his meal, in reality +only mowing the pasture, which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly, +passing into the first receptacle, the _paunch_, where it is surrounded +by a quantity of warm saliva, in which the herbage undergoes a process +of maceration or softening, till the animal having filled this +compartment, the contents pass through a valve into the second or +smaller bag,--the _reticulum_, where, having again filled the paunch +with a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular process +of chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he has +collected. By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a small +quantity of this softened food from the _reticulum_, or second bag, is +passed into the mouth, which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep to +grind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp, the operation being +further assisted by a flow of saliva, answering the double purpose of +increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of the +mass. Having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful, it is +swallowed a second time; but instead of returning to the paunch or +reticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity,--the +_omasum_, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, it +glides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch,--the _abomasum_, +an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of +animals, and where the process of digestion, begun and carried on in the +previous three, is here consummated, and the nutrient principle, by +means of the bile, eliminated from the digested aliment. Such is the +process of digestion in sheep and oxen. + +682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkable +a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the +Leicestershire sheep; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds in +quality, are, in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal's +nature, not equal to it in that respect, though in both the brain and +chest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs of +digestion. Besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces, +the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in those +parts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called in the +trade "prime joints;" and so far has this been effected, that the +comparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test +of quality in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopence +a pound more for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are the +hind quarters of mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-end +butchers never deal in any other part of the sheep. + +683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH in various breeds is a +well-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness; and +that the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the +flavour of the meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation in +which those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of +Bamstead in Sussex. It is also a well-established truth, that the +_larger_ the frame of the animal, the _coarser_ is the meat, and that +_small bones_ are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and the +delicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in determining the +quality of the meat; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre, deeper +in colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than in +the female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion; +but probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they are +reared, has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality and +tenderness of the meat. + +684. THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES of sheep inhabiting the different regions of +the earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four, +species: the _Ovis Amman_, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock of +all the rest; the _Ovis Tragelaphus_, the bearded sheep of Africa; the +_Ovis Musmon_, the Musmon of Southern Europe; and the _Ovis Montana_, +the Mouflon of America; though it is believed by many naturalists that +this last is so nearly identical with the Indian Argali as to be +undeserving a separate place. It is still a controversy to which of +these three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication; +the Argali, however, by general belief, has been considered as the most +_probable_ progenitor of the present varieties. + +685. THE EFFECTS PRODUCED BY CHANGE OF CLIMATE, accident, and other +causes, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical +alteration as the primitive Argali must have undergone before the +Musmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the _immediate_ progenitor of all our +European breeds, assumed his present appearance. The Argali is about a +fifth larger in size than the ordinary English sheep, and being a native +of a tropical clime, his fleece is of hair instead of wool, and of a +warm reddish brown, approaching to yellow; a thick mane of darker hair, +about seven inches long, commences from two long tufts at the angle of +the jaws, and, running _under_ the throat and neck, descends down the +chest, dividing, at the fore fork, into two parts, one running down the +front of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the character +of the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping inwards, +terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends in a +tuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, the +French have given the species the name of _Mouflon a manchettes_. From +the primitive stock _eleven_ varieties have been reared in this country, +of the domesticated sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possess +some one or more special qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetland +or Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, or +Devonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned, of Norfolk the Ryeland; South-Down; +the Merino; the Old Leicester, and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, have +of late years been epitomized; and, for all useful and practical +purposes, reduced to the following four orders:-- + +686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT. + +[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM.] + +[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN EWE.] + +687. SOUTH-DOWNS.--It appears, as far as our investigation can trace the +fact, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in +England, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the +south-west and south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as the +South-Downs, has been famous for a superior race of sheep; and we find +the Romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester, +where they may be said to terminate, which rose to such estimation, from +the fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth, that the produce was +kept as only worthy to clothe emperors. From this, it may be inferred +that sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract. Though +boasting so remote a reputation, it is comparatively within late years +that the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed has +been effected, the South-Down new ranking, for symmetry of shape, +constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in the kingdom. The +South-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from two to three +inches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour. It +is, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. A +marked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher +than the fore, the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds. + +[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.] + +[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.] + +688. THE LEICESTER.--It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Robert +Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of +sheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock +which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester +is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, very +productive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, covered +with short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye, +long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. The +meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of the +South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weight +of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs. + +[Illustration: HEATH RAM.] + +[Illustration: HEATH EWE.] + +689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.--This is the most hardy of all +our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and +legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top +of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than +on the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what +shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and +well open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The +wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16 +lbs. + +690. THE CHEVIOT.--From the earliest traditions, these hills in the +North, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of +large-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical +advantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and +capability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns, +face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throat +and neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated. +The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to the +hough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in the +chest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs. + +[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM.] + +[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE.] + +691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowland +moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex, +has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of +sheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous +for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially +for size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called +thickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminence +over every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish men +with the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted any +crossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and from +the Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in an +eminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed was +actually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock did +not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were ready +for the market a _year_ sooner; that the fat formed more on the exterior +of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather +than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal; +and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour, +finer, and possessed of superior felting properties. + +692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact, +with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple +quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the +chest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendency +to fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Romney +Marsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of +perfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and +generally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep. + +693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders, +according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after +weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or +teg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, a +shearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three, +or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The +female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes, +according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg; +after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future a +two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave. + +694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditious +a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animal +being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while +pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of +the jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck; +thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being +very rapid from such a hemorrhage. + +[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.] + +695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or, +as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very +simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, +doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, +tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep, +they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (which +operation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and the +head removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numerals +indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut. +After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to +the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in +the sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the intervening +lines and figures. _Hind quarter_: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin--the two, +when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. _Fore quarter_: No. 3, +the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, the +scrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower and +better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often served +at public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg and +so much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on the +upper part of the carcase by a dotted line. + +696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defenceless +condition, must very early have attached it to man for motives less +selfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been proved +beyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptible +of a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many parts +of Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, it +is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its +name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland, +when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known to +form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line, +keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatched +him with their horns. + +697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adam +in his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for his +body, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abel +intrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tells +us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were +domesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exact +period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, is +equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though some +authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that +when Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a +sacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly +likely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam +and his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the +fact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as they +are reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and the +coverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of the +animals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations +only, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary +purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten till +after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. From +Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the +sheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious +portion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite +morsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especially +fit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer +that the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, and +known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs, +though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; a +supposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that the +ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was a +horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so far +proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailed +sheep appertaining to the same family. + + +LAMBS. + +698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences in +March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the +appetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however, +the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would +endanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it +is customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter of +stables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow's +milk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary to +give the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in the +open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about +152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poor +lands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not till +the close of the fourth--sometimes longer. + +699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in the +tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more +prone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the +flesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton. +Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the +South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which +have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are +considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the +milk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed +lamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the +others. + +[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB.] + +700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in +London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs +to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided +into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting +of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the +loin,--as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the +juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable +weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture +that may form on it. + +701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by +which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion +whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints +possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat. +The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and +dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can +always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or +vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm, +compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner +for the integrity of the hind-quarter. + +702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.--1, 1. Ribs; 2. +Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XV. + + +BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). + +703. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, 1 or 2 +onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of +pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed potatoes. + +_Mode_.--Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour; +add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced and +well mixed; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or +nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of +mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then +another layer of potatoes, and bake for about 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onions +instead of 1. + + +BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE. + +704. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of +minced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley), pepper and +salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut off the superfluous fat; bone it; sprinkle over a layer of +bread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning; roll, and bind it up firmly. +Boil _gently_ for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper sauce, +No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + +BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. + +705. INGREDIENTS.--Mutton, water, salt. + +_Mode_.--A. leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it +will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim +the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficient +boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to the +side of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne in +the water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water may +gently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or the +meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4 +hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton +will be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled +with the meat, and send caper sauce (No. 382) to table with it in a +tureen. + +_Time_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2-1/4 hours after the +water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and +August. + +_Note_.--When meat is liked very _thoroughly_ cooked, allow more time +than stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be +converted into soup. + + THE GOOD SHEPHERD.--The sheep's complete dependence upon the + shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently + referred to in the Bible; thus the Psalmist likens himself to a + lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant; and our + Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach + the Gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren, compares them to + lambs going amongst wolves. The shepherd of the East, by kind + treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of + affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by + which he calls them, and they follow him in and out of the fold. + The beautiful figure of the "good shepherd," which so often + occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the + Saviour for mankind. "The good shepherd giveth his life for the + sheep."--_John_, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd, and know my + sheep, and am known by mine."--_John_, x. 14. "And other sheep I + have which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and + they shall hear my voice: and there shall be one fold and one + shepherd."--_John_, x. 16. + +BONED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED. + +706. INGREDIENTS.--A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs., +forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced. + +_Mode_.--Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2 +finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the +skin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the +bone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to prevent +its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before a +nice clear fire for about 2-1/2 hours or rather longer; remove the tape +and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, as +preferred. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 4s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with French Beans. + +707. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered paper, +French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2 +hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have ready some +French beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve; remove the paper from the +mutton, glaze it; just heat up the beans in the gravy, and lay them on +the dish with the meat over them. The remainder of the gravy may be +strained, and sent to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON--Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat + most generally used in families; and, both by connoisseurs and + medical men, it stands first in favour, whether its the favour, + digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be + considered. Of all mutton, that furnished by South-Down sheep is + the most highly esteemed; it is also the dearest, on account of + its scarcity, and the great demand of it. Therefore, if the + housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his + shop, it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser. + The London and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep + called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and + Lincoln or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of + mutton than the true South-Downs, and, for this very desirable + qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-masters. + The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. in weight; the + shoulders, necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs.; and if care is + taken not to purchase it; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about + 8 to 9 lbs.; and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat, it + will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that + can be bought. + +BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. + +708. INGREDIENTS.--1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot +of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper and +salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, 1/2 pint of gravy or +water. + +_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon, +put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over +these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon +and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very gently +for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire, +glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish of +white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions. + +_Time_.--4 hours. Average cost, 5s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--This order of knighthood was + founded by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the + day of his marriage with the Princess Isabella of Portugal. The + number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one, + including the sovereign, as the head and chief of the + institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X. consented to increase the + number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700 the German + emperor Charles VI. and King Philip of Spain both laid claim to + the order. The former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could + not maintain by force of arms, took with him, to Vienna, the + archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized + there in 1713, with great magnificence; but Philip V. of Spain + declared himself Grand Master, and formally protested, at the + congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions of the + emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the + intercession of France, England, and Holland, was frequently + renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced into both + countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the + Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece," according to + the country where it is issued. + +AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON. + +709. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, +flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas. + +_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let it be +tolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter, and +fry it of a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice the onions, +and put it with the herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient water +_just_ to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the mutton +is tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from the +gravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan; add about +a quart of young green peas, and let them boil gently until done. 2 or 3 +slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional +flavour; and, to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour, they +may be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment +of serving. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August. + + NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN.--The names of + all our domestic animals are of Saxon origin; but it is curious + to observe that Norman names have been given to the different + sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beautifully this + illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the + Conquest. The Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding + the domestic animals, but only that they might appear on the + table of his Norman lord. Thus 'ox,' 'steer,' 'cow,' are Saxon, + but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, but 'veal' Norman; + 'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' Norman; so it is severally with + 'deer' and 'venison,' 'swine' and 'pork,' 'fowl' and 'pullet.' + 'Bacon,' the only flesh which, perhaps, ever came within his + reach, is the single exception. + +BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +710. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce, No. 529. + +_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton; +season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make some +tomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. This +makes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes to broil the mutton. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful and +seasonable. + + SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS.--The shepherd's crook is older than + either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword. We are + told that Abel was a keeper of sheep. Many passages in holy writ + enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern + nations; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks, + when we read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred + sheep for the price of a field, and that the king of Israel + received a hundred thousand every year from the king of Moab, + his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their + fleece. The tendency which most sheep have to ramble, renders it + necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd. To keep a flock + within bounds, is no easy task; but the watchful shepherd + manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the + Highlands of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, the + sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be watched over by + many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish + landowners are of enormous extent. "How many sheep have you on + your estate?" asked Prince Esterhazy of the duke of Argyll. "I + have not the most remote idea," replied the duke; "but I know + the shepherds number several thousands." + +BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. + +711. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of +butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton, remove a +portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape; slightly beat and +level them; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the bars +with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequently +turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepper +and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on +each chop, and serve very hot and expeditiously. + +_Time_.--About 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 chop to each person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CHINA CHILO. + +712. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions, +2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful +of pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter; when liked, a +little cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck of +mutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced; put it into a stewpan +with the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce and +onion rather fine; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients have +been well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours. Serve +in a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for curry. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August. + + +CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). + +713. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2 onions, +1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful +of flour, salt to taste, 1/4 pint of stock or water. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan +with the butter, and fry of a light brown; stir in the curry powder, +flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice thin +slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), and +add it to the other ingredients; when well browned, add the stock or +gravy, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Serve in a dish with a border +of boiled rice, the same as for other curries. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). + +714. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg, +bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529). + +_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets, +trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too much; +dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry them a +nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and pour round them +either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce. + +_Time_.--About 7 minutes. + +_Seasonable_.--Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September and +October. + + +DORMERS. + +715. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, pepper +and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, made +gravy. + +_Mode_.--Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely; mix well together, and +add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages; cover +them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown. +Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a little in a +tureen. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to fry the sausages. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--The ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may + be thus briefly told:--Phryxus, a son of Athamus, king of + Thebes, to escape the persecutions of his stepmother Ino, paid a + visit to his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece + was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most + obliging manner to the court of his friend. When safe At + Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of Mars, and + pocketed the fleece. The king received him with great kindness, + and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage; but, some time + after, he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the + precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply revenged by the + Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition, + undertaken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of + Greece. The Argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the + celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell + desperately in love with the gallant but faithless Jason. In the + story of the voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably + exists, though overlaid by a mass of fiction. The ram which + carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been the + name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is + thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from + Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly + convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the + transmutation of metals, written on sheepskin. + +HARICOT MUTTON. + +I. + +716. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle or best end of the neck of +mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, popper and salt to taste, 1 +tablespoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce. + +_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thin +chops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry of a +pale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the carrots and +turnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly fry them in +the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not allow them to +take any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then the +vegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover +the whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on the side of +the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Skim off every +particle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a little +ketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day before +it is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removed +when the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as it +is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made. It +should be served in rather a deep dish. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to simmer gently. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +717. INGREDIENTS.--Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and salt to +taste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade of +mace, carrots and turnips, sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice colour; +then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. +Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water, adding the +onion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer gently till the +meat is nearly done, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots and +turnips, which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a little +sugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for 10 minutes; take +out the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 3 hours to simmer. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). + +718. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of +butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy, +pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonful +of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off the +fat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter, +of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it +stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until +_nearly_ tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 1/4 hour +before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup +and port wine, give one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +HASHED MUTTON. + +719. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton, +6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head +of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming off +all superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of the +joint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and +celery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion +of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick, +and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 1/4 hour, strain the gravy, and +let it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with the +meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey's sauce; tomato +sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meat +gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meat +properly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the fire +just long enough to warm through. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to simmer the gravy. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + HASHED MUTTON.--Many persons express a decided aversion to + hashed mutton; and, doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the + fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served + with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it + ought to be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant + and well flavoured, and the sippets nicely toasted, and the + whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means to be + despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than + the cold leg or shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and + their bachelor friends, stand in such natural awe. + +HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +720. INGREDIENTS.--About 1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, 2 lettuces, 1 +pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and +salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of water. + +_Mode_.--Mince the mutton, and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices. +Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the peas, and +let these simmer very gently for 3/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. +Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the end of May to August. + + +IRISH STEW. + +I. + +721. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. of +potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1 +pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neck +of mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare and halve +the potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a layer of +potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton and onions, +and season with pepper and salt; proceed in this manner until the +stewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top. +Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2-1/2 hours, keeping +the lid of the stewpan closely shut the _whole_ time, and occasionally +shaking it to prevent its burning. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--More suitable for a winter dish. + + +II. + +722. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of the breast of mutton, 1-1/2 pint of +water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions. + +_Mode_.--Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt, +and let it stew gently for an hour; cut the meat into small pieces, skim +the fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes and onions. Put +all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first a layer of +vegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and salt +between each layer; cover closely, and let the whole stew very gently +for 1 hour of rather more, shaking it frequently to prevent its burning. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter dish. + +_Note_.--Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, but +baked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in a +moderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it. + + +ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS. + +723. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton, clarified butter, +the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of +minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful +of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper, +salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water, +2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfuls +of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, and +trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, into +the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs, +parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, and +cover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in a +frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them, +out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the pan, +and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till it +looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining +ingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy +should not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, when +obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not in +season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them. + +_Time_.--10 minutes;--rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE DOWNS.--The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist + regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist + as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals, + forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of + England. The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the + bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex + from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey. The + North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and + terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to + Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the + layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support + trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded summits, and their + smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral + monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The coombes + and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear + like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets. From time + immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these + downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and + whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the + dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is + eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the + arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords + the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of + the hills fails. The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is + highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its + fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported + from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the + course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to + a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair. + +BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish). + +724. INGREDIENTS.--Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open very +evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker +than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, +but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white +part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, +placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, +and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a +very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of +butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very +hot plates to table. + +_Time_.--6 to 8 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the +kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape. In +this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement. + +[Illustration: KIDNEYS.] + +FRIED KIDNEYS. + +725. INGREDIENTS.--Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the +skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter +is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for +7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done. Serve on a piece +of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of +butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve +very hot. + +_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 kidney to each person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.] + +726. INGREDIENTS.--Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour. + +_Mode_.--Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming +tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the +flies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the +joint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher or +the cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest it +should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to +a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm +through. Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it is +served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a +little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little +boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place a +paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a +tureen to table with it. + +_Time_.--About 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--In best season from September to March. + + HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.--If the housekeeper is not very + particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is + oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her + purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it. It + often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a + superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get + rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d. or 1-1/2d. per + lb., and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs., will be saved enough + to buy 2 quartern loaves. It frequently happens with many + butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of + mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be + glad to sell at a reduction. + +ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.] + +727. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of mutton, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost +as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a +few days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it very +dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire, +dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is +cooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get +nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off +the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the +joint, and serve. + +_Time_.--A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours; +one of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8 +persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August. + + +ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON. + +728. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher +joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the +carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it need +not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and +baste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, +and serve very hot. + +[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.] + +_Time_.--A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent). + +729. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful of +pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace, +1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port +wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it +pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all +of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make a +forcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind +it up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off +the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the +gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbind +it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour +over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few +mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great +improvement. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently. + +_Average cost_, 4s. 9d. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as +here directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served +with a good gravy and currant jelly. + + +BOILED NECK OF MUTTON. + +730. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of +mutton; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if +it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the +ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this +is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ water +to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum. +Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool +that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gently +until the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rather +more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer. + +Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it +over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when +at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These, +however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces, +or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready. +Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the +mutton. + +_Time_.--4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2 d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE POETS ON SHEEP.--The keeping of flocks seems to have been + the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of + poetry was probably pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral + gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the + golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in + singing. In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the + "fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;" + indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only + to that of the shepherds who tend them. The "nibbling sheep" has + ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with + figures and similes without end. Shakspere frequently compares + men to sheep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the + side of Henry VI., the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his + helplessness;-- + + "So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf: + So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece, + And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife." + + In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we meet with the following + humorous comparison:-- + + "_Proteus_. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the + shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages + followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee; + therefore, thou art a sheep. + + "_Speed_. Such another proof will make me cry _baa_." + + The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep. + Every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's + "Seasons:"-- + + "Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow + Slow move the harmless race; where, as they spread + Their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray, + Inly disturb'd, and wond'ring what this wild + Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints + The country fill; and, toss'd from rock to rock, + Incessant bleatings run around the hills." + + What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the + oft-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"-- + + "And drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold." + + From Dyer's quaint poem of "The Fleece" we could cull a hundred + passages relating to sheep; but we have already exceeded our + space. We cannot, however, close this brief notice of the + allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without + quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor + Mailie," his only "pet _yowe_:"-- + + "Thro' a' the town she troll'd by him; + A lang half-mile she could descry him; + Wi' kindly bleat, when she did spy him. + She ran wi' speed; + A friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him + Than Mailie dead. + + "I wat she was a sheep o' sense. + An' could behave hersel' wi' mense; + I'll say't, she never brak a fence, + Thro' thievish greed. + Our bardie, lanely, keeps the spence, + Sin' Mailie's dead." + +MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +731. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton, salt +and pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of savoury +herbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1 +dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loin +of mutton; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced savoury +herbs, and minced shalot; fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonful +of flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently about 5 or 7 +minutes, and serve immediately. + +_Time_.--5 to 7 minutes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: MUTTON CUTLETS.] + +MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES. + +732. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the best end of the neck of mutton, +salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes. + +_Mode_.--Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches of +the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness. Shape +them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone; beat them flat +with a cutlet-chopper, and scrape quite clean, a portion of the top of +the bone. Broil them over a nice clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes, +and turn them frequently. Have ready some smoothly-mashed white +potatoes; place these in the middle of the dish; when the cutlets are +done, season with pepper and salt; arrange them round the potatoes, with +the thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and quickly. +(See Coloured Plate.) + +_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Cutlets may be served in various ways; with peas, tomatoes, +onions, sauce piquante, &c. + + +MUTTON PIE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +733. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, +pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful of +chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, a +little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy; +crust. + +_Mode_.--Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned +and mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thin +slices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at the bottom +of the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs; +then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till +the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1 +hour. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into +a very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and putting +them into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned well +with pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled +for about 3 hours. + + +MUTTON PIE. + +734. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed after +being boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravy +or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a little +minced onion or shalot; puff crust. + +_Mode_.--Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the same +thickness, and leave but very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, and +arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them the +minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, +and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1-1/2 hour, or +rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather +brisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, and +will be found exceedingly good. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MUTTON PUDDING. + +735. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of mutton, +weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made +with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each pound +of flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omitted +when the flavour is not liked). + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with +pepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, and +nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour is +liked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, and +proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the same +kind of pudding-dish as there mentioned. + +_Time_.--About 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. + + +RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). + +736. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. +of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1/4 pint of water, 2 small +carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater +portion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little +flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put in +the meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots and +turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepper +and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. +When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots and +turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chops +laid round. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August. + + +ROAST NECK OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. _Best end_. 2-3. _Scrag_.] + +737. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of mutton; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck +of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some +of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found +exceedingly good. Let the bones be cut short and see that it is properly +jointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easily +separated when they come to table. Place the joint at a nice brisk +fire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done. A +few minutes before serving, draw it nearer the the fire to acquire a +nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, add +a little boiling water slightly salted, strain this over the meat and +serve. Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it. + +_Time_.--4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.--The distinction between hair and wool is + rather arbitrary than natural, consisting in the greater or less + degrees of fineness, softness and pliability of the fibres. + When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of + their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable + to be used as an article of dress, they are called wool. The + sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the + animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is + obtained. The finest of all wools is that from the goat of + Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made. Of European + wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the + Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the precedence. The Merino + sheep, as now naturalized in Australia, furnishes an excellent + fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe + or Australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in + India, and to that of the llama of the Andes. The best of our + British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the + above-mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the + finest Spanish merino; but for the ordinary purposes of the + manufacturer, they are unrivalled. + +ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.] + +738. INGREDIENTS.--Saddle of mutton; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days or +a fortnight, if the weather permits. Cut off the tail and flaps and trim +away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and +have the skin taken off and skewered on again. Put it down to a bright, +clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove the +skin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near the +fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt. Keep +constantly basting, both before and after the skin is removed; sprinkle +some salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pour +it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and +red-currant jelly. + +_Time_.--A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 lbs., +3-1/4 hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year; not so good when lamb is in full season. + + +ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON. + +739. INGREDIENTS.--Shoulder of mutton; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, and +keep continually basting. About 1/4 hour before serving, draw it near +the fire, that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour, but not +sufficiently near to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt over +the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents, pour in a little +boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onion +sauce, or stewed Spanish onions, are usually sent to table with this +dish, and sometimes baked potatoes. + +_Time_.--A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs., 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways; boiled, +and served with onion sauce; boned, and stuffed with a good veal +forcemeat; or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan. + + THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD.--James Hogg was perhaps the most + remarkable man that ever wore the _maud_ of a shepherd. Under + the garb, aspect, and bearing of a rude peasant (and rude enough + he was in most of these things, even after no inconsiderable + experience of society), the world soon discovered a true poet. + He taught himself to write, by copying the letters of a printed + book as he lay watching his flock on the hillside, and believed + that he had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he + first found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the + ewe-milker who partook the shelter of his mantle during the + passing storm. If "the shepherd" of Professor Wilson's "Noctes + Ambrosianae" may be taken as a true portrait of James Hogg, we + must admit that, for quaintness of humour, the poet of Ettrick + Forest had few rivals. Sir Walter Scott said that Hogg's + thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more + entertainment than the best comedy that ever set the pit in a + roar. Among the written productions of the shepherd-poet, is an + account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called "The + Shepherd's Calender." This work contains a vast amount of useful + information upon sheep, their diseases, habits, and management. + The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835. + +SHEEP'S BRAINS, EN MATELOTE (an Entree). + +740. INGREDIENTS.--6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of +bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient +stock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, +matelote sauce, No. 512. + +_Mode_.--Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them, and put +them into a pan of warm water; remove the skin, and let them remain for +two hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar +and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm, take them out +and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a +stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley, +and a good seasoning of pepper and salt; cover with stock, or weak +broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready some +croutons; arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains, and +cover with a matelote sauce, No. 512, to which has been added the above +proportion of lemon-juice. + +_Time_.--25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +SHEEP'S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer's Recipe). + +741. INGREDIENTS.--12 feet, 1/4 lb. of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions, 1 +carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, 1/4 oz. of +pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2-1/2 quarts of water, 1/4 lb. of +fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3/4 +teaspoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 +gill of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from them. +Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced, the +bay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for 5 minutes. +Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep stirring till it +boils; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, or until +perfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a sieve. Mix together, +on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (1 +teaspoonful), pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and put the +feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add the +butter, &c., and stir continually till melted. Now mix the yolks of 2 +eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this to the other ingredients, +keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two, but +do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a very hot +dish, and garnish with croutons, or sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO DRESS A SHEEP'S HEAD. + +742. INGREDIENTS.--1 sheep's head, sufficient water to cover it, 3 +carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley, +1 teaspoonful of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/4 lb. of Scotch +oatmeal. + +_Mode_.--Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours, +to get rid of the blood; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient cold +water to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled and +sliced, and the remaining ingredients; before adding the oatmeal, mix it +to a smooth batter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring till it +boils up; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently for +1-1/2 or 2 hours. It may be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmeal +is preferable. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 or 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + SINGED SHEEP'S HEAD.--The village of Dudingston, which stands + "within a mile of Edinburgh town," was formerly celebrated for + this ancient and homely Scottish dish. In the summer months, + many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace + themselves over singed sheep's heads, boiled or baked. The sheep + fed upon the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at this + village, and the carcases were sent to town; but the heads were + left to be consumed in the place. We are not aware whether the + custom of eating sheep's heads at Dudingston is still kept up by + the good folks of Edinburgh. + +TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +743. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter, a few +slices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys. + +_Mode_.--Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the above +proportion; butter a baking-dish, and pour in the batter. Into this +place a few slices of cold mutton, previously well seasoned, and the +kidneys, which should be cut into rather small pieces; bake about 1 +hour, or rather longer, and send it to table in the dish it was baked +in. Oysters or mushrooms may be substituted for the kidneys, and will be +found exceedingly good. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BREAST OF LAMB AND GREEN PEAS. + +744. INGREDIENTS.--1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1/4 pint of +stock No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green peas. + +_Mode_.--Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan +of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and lay +it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of +bacon; lay the lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it into slices, and +put these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender; cover with 1 +or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set it +on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender. Have ready some green +peas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb on the top of these. The +appearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb, and +spinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. + + THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE.--The number of lambs consumed in + sacrifices by the Hebrews must have been very considerable. Two + lambs "of the first year" were appointed to be sacrificed daily + for the morning and evening sacrifice; and a lamb served as a + substitute for the first-born of unclean animals, such as the + ass, which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord. + Every year, also, on the anniversary of the deliverance of the + children of Israel from the bondage of Egypt, every family was + ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, and to sprinkle some of its + blood upon the door-posts, in commemoration of the judgment of + God upon the Egyptians. It was to be eaten roasted, with + unleavened bread and bitter herbs, in haste, with the loins + girded, the shoes on the feet, and the staff in the hand; and + whatever remained until the morning was to be burnt. The sheep + was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national + sacrifices ordered by the Jewish law. On extraordinary + occasions, vast quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once; + thus Solomon, on the completion of the temple, offered "sheep + and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude." + +STEWED BREAST OF LAMB. + +745. INGREDIENTS.--1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, +sufficient stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of +butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepper +and salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or gravy to +cover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be in about +1-1/2 hour. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a little butter +and flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the meat. +Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat, and will +be found a very great improvement. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +LAMB CHOPS. + +746. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb, aid cut it into +chops about 3/4 inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear fire; lay +the chops on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown, turning +them when required. Season them with pepper and salt; serve very hot and +quickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or place them on mashed +potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the favourite accompaniments +to lamb chops. + +_Time_.--About 8 or 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 chops to each person. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH (an Entree). + +747. INGREDIENTS.--8 cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to +taste, a little clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting +off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all +the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the +cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with +pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter, sprinkle over a few +more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when +required. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish +with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, +drained, chopped, and seasoned. + +_Time_.--About 7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + +_Note_.--Peas, asparagus, or French beans, may be substituted for the +spinach; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubise +sauce, &c. &c. + + +LAMB'S FRY. + +748. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lamb's fry, 3 pints of water, egg and bread +crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Boil the fry for 1/4 hour in the above proportion of water, +take it out and dry it in a cloth; grate some bread down finely, mix +with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepper +and salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle +over the bread crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkin +in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley. + +_Time_.-1 hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +HASHED LAMB AND BROILED BLADE-BONE. + +749. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper and +salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of stock or gravy, 1 +tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. + +_Mode_.--Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat into +collops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and salt, +pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warm +through. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalot +vinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat gradually +through, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of the +oven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice the +gherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone in the +centre. It may be garnished with croutons or sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_,--house lamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, from +Easter to Michaelmas. + +[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.] + +ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. + +750. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not be +long kept; time to cool is all that it requires; and though the meat may +be somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely superior +to that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up the fire in +good time, that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down. +Place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning, and +baste it constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be very +_thoroughly_ done without being dried up, and not the slightest +appearance of red gravy should be visible, as in roast mutton: this rule +is applicable to all young white meats. Serve with a little gravy made +in the dripping-pan, the same as for other roasts, and send to table +with it a tureen of mint sauce, No. 469, and a fresh salad. A cut lemon, +a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, should also be +placed on the table, so that when the carver separates the shoulder from +the ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, however, he should not be +very expert, we would recommend that the cook should divide these joints +nicely before coming to table. + +_Time_.--Fore-quarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1-3/4 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_,--grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +BOILED LEG OF LAMB A LA BECHAMEL. + +751. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of lamb, Bechamel sauce, No. 367. + +_Mode_.--Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs. +Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge the lamb, and +when it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire, and let the +water cool a little. Then stew very gently for about 1-1/4 hour, +reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer. Make some +Bechamel by recipe No. 367, dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, and +garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When liked, melted +butter may be substituted for the Bechamel: this is a more simple +method, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it some of the sauce +in a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with whichever +vegetable the dish is garnished. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour after the water simmers. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +ROAST LEG OF LAMB. + +752. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb, a little salt. + +[Illustration: LEG OF LAMB.] + +_Mode_.--Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, and +baste well the whole time it is cooking. When nearly done, draw it +nearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle a little fine +salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents; pour in a +little boiling water, and strain this over the meat. Serve with mint +sauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or +cauliflowers to table with it. + +_Time_.--A leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs., 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +BRAISED LOIN OF LAMB. + +[Illustration: LOIN OF LAMB.] + +753. INGREDIENTS.--1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch of +green onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades +of pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Bone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a stewpan just +capable of holding it, with a few thin slices of fat bacon; add the +remaining ingredients, cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon, +pour in the stock, and simmer very _gently_ for 2 hours; take it up, dry +it, strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, +and serve it either on stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d. per lb. + +_Sufficient for_ 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + +[Illustration: SADDLE OF LAMB. RIBS OF LAMB.] + +ROAST SADDLE OF LAMB. + +754. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--This joint is now very much in vogue, and is generally +considered a nice one for a small party. Have ready a clear brisk fire; +put down the joint at a little distance, to prevent the fat from +scorching, and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking. Serve +with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table with it, either +peas, cauliflowers, or spinach. + +_Time_.--A small saddle, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + +_Note_.--Loin and ribs of lamb are roasted in the same manner, and +served with the same sauces as the above. A loin will take about 1-1/4 +hour; ribs, from 1 to 1-1/4 hour. + + +ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB. + +755. INGREDIENTS.--Lamb; a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Have ready a clear brisk fire, and put down the joint at a +sufficient distance from it, that the fat may not burn. Keep constantly +basting until done, and serve with a little gravy made in the +dripping-pan, and send mint sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, or +cauliflowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb, and also a fresh +salad. + +_Time_.--A shoulder of lamb rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10s. to 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +SHOULDER OF LAMB STUFFED. + +756. INGREDIENTS.--Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings of +veal or beef, 2 onions, 1/2 head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, a +few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105. + +_Mode_.--Take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up its +place with forcemeat, and sew it up with coarse thread. Put it into a +stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb, and add the +remaining ingredients. Stew very gently for rather more than 2 hours. +Reduce the gravy, with which glaze the meat, and serve with peas, stewed +cucumbers, or sorrel sauce. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS (an Entree). + +757. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 sweetbreads, 1/2 pint of veal stock, white +pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade of +pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, 2 eggs, nearly 1/2 pint of +cream, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and put them into a +saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let them +simmer for 10 minutes; then take them out and put them into cold water. +Now lard them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, onions, +mace, and a thickening of butter and flour, and stew gently for 1/4 hour +or 20 minutes. Beat up the egg with the cream, to which add the minced +parsley and a very little grated nutmeg. Put this to the other +ingredients; stir it well till quite hot, but do not let it boil after +the cream is added, or it will curdle. Have ready some asparagus-tops, +boiled; add these to the sweetbreads, and serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entree. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS SWEETBREADS (an Entree). + +758. INGREDIENTS.--Sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of gravy, +No. 442, 1/2 glass of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, and throw them into +boiling water to render them firm. Let them stew gently for about 1/4 +hour, take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the water +from them. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, +and either brown them in the oven or before the fire. Have ready the +above quantity of gravy, to which add 1/2 glass of sherry; dish the +sweetbreads, pour the gravy under them, and garnish with water-cresses. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. +each. + +_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entree. + +_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. + + +MUTTON AND LAMB CARVING. + +HAUNCH OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.] + +759. A deep cut should, in the first place, be made quite down to the +bone, across the knuckle-end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. This +will let the gravy escape; and then it should be carved, in not too +thick slices, along the whole length of the haunch, in the direction of +the line from 4 to 3. + +[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.] + +LEG OF MUTTON. + +760. This homely, but capital English joint, is almost invariably served +at table as shown in the engraving. The carving of it is not very +difficult: the knife should be carried sharply down in the direction of +the line from 1 to 2, and slices taken from either side, as the guests +may desire, some liking the knuckle-end, as well done, and others +preferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near the +line 3 to 4. Some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished with +the under-side uppermost, so as to get at the finely-grained meat lying +under that part of the meat, known as the Pope's eye; but this is an +extravagant fashion, and one that will hardly find favour in the eyes of +many economical British housewives and housekeepers. + + +LOIN OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.] + +761. There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton +which includes every other; that is, that the joint should be thoroughly +well jointed by the butcher before it is cooked. This knack of jointing +requires practice and the proper tools; and no one but the butcher is +supposed to have these. If the bones be not well jointed, the carving of +a loin of mutton is not a gracious business; whereas, if that has been +attended to, it is an easy and untroublesome task. The knife should be +inserted at fig. 1, and after feeling your way between the bones, it +should be carried sharply in the direction of the line 1 to 2. As there +are some people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, +the question as to their choice of this should be asked. + + +SADDLE OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.] + +762. Although we have heard, at various intervals, growlings expressed +at the inevitable "saddle of mutton" at the dinner-parties of our middle +classes, yet we doubt whether any other joint is better liked, when it +has been well hung and artistically cooked. There is a diversity of +opinion respecting the mode of sending this joint to table; but it has +only reference to whether or no there shall be any portion of the tail, +or, if so, how many joints of the tail. We ourselves prefer the mode as +shown in our coloured illustration "O;" but others may, upon equally +good grounds, like the way shown in the engraving on this page. Some +trim the tail with a paper frill. The carving is not difficult: it is +usually cut in the direction of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to the +bones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A fashion, however, patronized by some, +is to carve it obliquely, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3; in +which case the joint would be turned round the other way, having the +tail end on the right of the carver. + + +SHOULDER OF MUTTON. + +[Illustration: SHOULDER OF MUTTON.] + +763. This is a joint not difficult to carve. The knife should be drawn +from the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line from 1 +to 2, until the bone of the shoulder is reached. As many slices as can +be carved in this manner should be taken, and afterwards the meat lying +on either side of the blade-bone should be served, by carving in the +direction of 3 to 4 and 3 to 4. The uppermost side of the shoulder being +now finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken off along its +whole length. There are some who prefer this under-side of the shoulder +for its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat is not so fine as +that on the other side. + + +FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. + +[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.] + +764. We always think that a good and practised carver delights in the +manipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judgment +and dexterity which does not always occur. The separation of the +shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this is +done by passing the knife lightly round the dotted line, as shown by the +figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by +raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be +firmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of the +knife. In dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take care +not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would +rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast and +shoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter, +and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them; and +when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, the +shoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The, +next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting +through the meat on the line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to be +served to the guests; the ribs being carved in the direction of the +lines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should ask +those at the table what parts they prefer-ribs, brisket, or a piece of +the shoulder. + + +LEG OF LAMB, LOIN OF LAMB, SADDLE OF LAMB, SHOULDER OF LAMB, + +are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of mutton. +(_See_ Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763.) + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG. + +765. THE HOG belongs to the order _Mammalia_, the genus _Sus scrofa_, +and the species _Pachydermata_, or thick-skinned; and its generic +characters are, a small head, with long flexible snout truncated; 42 +teeth, divided into 4 upper incisors, converging, 6 lower incisors, +projecting, 2 upper and 2 lower canine, or tusks,--the former short, the +latter projecting, formidable, and sharp, and 14 molars in each jaw; +cloven feet furnished with 4 toes, and tail, small, short, and twisted; +while, in some varieties, this appendage is altogether wanting. + +766. FROM THE NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TEETH, physiologists are +enabled to define the nature and functions of the animal; and from those +of the _Sus_, or hog, it is evident that he is as much a _grinder_ as a +_biter_, or can live as well on vegetable as on animal food; though a +mixture of both is plainly indicated as the character of food most +conducive to the integrity and health of its physical system. + +767. THUS THE PIG TRIBE, though not a ruminating mammal, as might be +inferred from the number of its molar teeth, is yet a link between the +_herbivorous_ and the _carnivorous_ tribes, and is consequently what is +known as an _omnivorous_ quadruped; or, in other words, capable of +converting any kind of aliment into nutriment. + +768. THOUGH THE HOOF IN THE HOG is, as a general rule, cloven, there are +several remarkable exceptions, as in the species native to Norway, +Illyria, Sardinia, and _formerly_ to the Berkshire variety of the +British domesticated pig, in which the hoof is entire and _un_cleft. + +769. WHATEVER DIFFERENCE IN ITS PHYSICAL NATURE, climate and soil may +produce in this animal, his functional characteristics are the same in +whatever part of the world he may be found; and whether in the trackless +forests of South America, the coral isles of Polynesia, the jungles of +India, or the spicy brakes of Sumatra, he is everywhere known for his +gluttony, laziness, and indifference to the character and quality of his +food. And though he occasionally shows an epicure's relish for a +succulent plant or a luscious carrot, which he will discuss with all his +salivary organs keenly excited, he will, the next moment, turn with +equal gusto to some carrion offal that might excite the forbearance of +the unscrupulous cormorant. It is this coarse and repulsive mode of +feeding that has, in every country and language, obtained for him the +opprobrium of being "an unclean animal." + +770. IN THE MOSAICAL LAW, the pig is condemned as an unclean beast, and +consequently interdicted to the Israelites, as unfit for human food. +"And the swine, though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed, yet he +cheweth not the cud. He is unclean to you."--Lev. xi. 7. Strict, +however, as the law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-divided +animals, the Jews, with their usual perversity and violation of the +divine commands, seem afterwards to have ignored the prohibition; for, +unless they ate pork, it is difficult to conceive for what purpose they +kept troves of swine, as from the circumstance recorded in Matthew +xviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee, and the devils, cast out of the +two men, were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were feeding on +the hills in the neighbourhood of the Sea of Tiberias, it is very +evident they did. There is only one interpretation by which we can +account for a prohibition that debarred the Jews from so many foods +which we regard as nutritious luxuries, that, being fat and the texture +more hard of digestion than other meats, they were likely, in a hot dry +climate, where vigorous exercise could seldom be taken, to produce +disease, and especially cutaneous affections; indeed, in this light, as +a code of sanitary ethics, the book of Leviticus is the most admirable +system of moral government ever conceived for man's benefit. + +771. SETTING HIS COARSE FEEDING AND SLOVENLY HABITS OUT OF THE QUESTION, +there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as the +much-maligned pig, or any that yields him a more varied or more +luxurious repast. The prolific powers of the pig are extraordinary, even +under the restraint of domestication; but when left to run wild in +favourable situations, as in the islands of the South Pacific, the +result, in a few years, from two animals put on shore and left +undisturbed, is truly surprising; for they breed so fast, and have such +numerous litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the +use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews, they +would degenerate into vermin. In this country the pig has usually two +litters, or farrows, in a year, the breeding seasons being April and +October; and the period the female goes with her young is about four +months,--16 weeks or 122 days. The number produced at each litter +depends upon the character of the breed; 12 being the average number in +the small variety, and 10 in the large; in the mixed breeds, however, +the average is between 10 and 15, and in some instances has reached as +many as 20. But however few, or however many, young pigs there may be to +the farrow, there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle, a +poor, little, shrivelled, half-starved anatomy, with a small melancholy +voice, a staggering gait, a woe-begone countenance, and a thread of a +tail, whose existence the complacent mother ignores, his plethoric +brothers and sisters repudiate, and for whose emaciated jaws there is +never a spare or supplemental teat, till one of the favoured +gormandizers, overtaken by momentary oblivion, drops the lacteal +fountain, and gives the little squeaking straggler the chance of a +momentary mouthful. This miserable little object, which may be seen +bringing up the rear of every litter, is called the Tony pig, or the +_Anthony_; so named, it is presumed, from being the one always assigned +to the Church, when tithe was taken in kind; and as St. Anthony was the +patron of husbandry, his name was given in a sort of bitter derision to +the starveling that constituted his dues; for whether there are ten or +fifteen farrows to the litter, the Anthony is always the last of the +family to come into the world. + +772. FROM THE GROSSNESS OF HIS FEEDING, the large amount of aliment he +consumes, his gluttonous way of eating it, from his slothful habits, +laziness, and indulgence in sleep, the pig is particularly liable to +disease, and especially indigestion, heartburn, and affections of the +skin. + +773. TO COUNTERACT THE CONSEQUENCE OF A VIOLATION OF THE PHYSICAL LAWS, +a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to seek for +relief and medicine. To open the pores of his skin, blocked up with mud, +and excite perspiration, he resorts to a tree, a stump, or his +trough--anything rough and angular, and using it as a curry-comb to his +body, obtains the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticular +evaporation; he next proceeds with his long supple snout to grub up +antiscorbutic roots, cooling salads of mallow and dandelion, and, +greatest treat of all, he stumbles on a piece of chalk or a mouthful of +delicious cinder, which, he knows by instinct, is the most sovereign +remedy in the world for that hot, unpleasant sensation he has had all +the morning at his stomach. + + +774. IT IS A REMARKABLE FACT that, though every one who keeps a pig +knows how prone he is to disease, how that disease injures the quality +of the meat, and how eagerly he pounces on a bit of coal or cinder, or +any coarse dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which he +lives, and by affording soda to his system, correct the vitiated fluids +of his body,--yet very few have the judgment to act on what they see, +and by supplying the pig with a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty, +save the necessity of his rooting for what is so needful to his health. +Instead of this, however, and without supplying the animal with what its +instinct craves for, his nostril is bored with a red-hot iron, and a +ring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to be +absolutely necessary for his health; and ignoring the fact that, in a +domestic state at least, the pig lives on the richest of all +food,--scraps of cooked animal substances, boiled vegetables, bread, and +other items, given in that concentrated essence of aliment for a +quadruped called wash, and that he eats to repletion, takes no exercise, +and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating, and then, +when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which would +obviate the evil of such a forcing diet, his keeper, instead of meeting +his animal instinct by human reason, and giving him what he seeks, has +the inhumanity to torture him by a ring, that, keeping up a perpetual +"raw" in the pig's snout, prevents his digging for those corrective +drugs which would remove the evils of his artificial existence. + +775. THOUGH SUBJECT TO SO MANY DISEASES, no domestic animal is more +easily kept in health, cleanliness, and comfort, and this without the +necessity of "ringing," or any excessive desire of the hog to roam, +break through his sty, or plough up his _pound_. Whatever the kind of +food may be on which the pig is being fed or fattened, a teaspoonful or +more of salt should always be given in his mess of food, and a little +heap of well-burnt cinders, with occasional bits of chalk, should always +be kept by the side of his trough, as well as a vessel of clean water: +his pound, or the front part of his sty, should be totally free from +straw, the brick flooring being every day swept out and sprinkled with a +layer of sand. His lair, or sleeping apartment, should be well sheltered +by roof and sides from cold, wet, and all changes of weather, and the +bed made up of a good supply of clean straw, sufficiently deep to enable +the pig to burrow his unprotected body beneath it. All the refuse of the +garden, in the shape of roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in a +corner of his pound or feeding-chamber, for the delectation of his +leisure moments; and once a week, on the family washing-day, a pail of +warm soap-suds should be taken into his sty, and, by means of a +scrubbing-brush and soap, his back, shoulders, and flanks should be well +cleaned, a pail of clean warm water being thrown over his body at the +conclusion, before he is allowed to retreat to his clean straw to dry +himself. By this means, the excessive nutrition of his aliment will be +corrected, a more perfect digestion insured, and, by opening the pores +of the skin, a more vigorous state of health acquired than could have +been obtained under any other system. + +776. WE HAVE ALREADY SAID that no other animal yields man so _many_ +kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the flesh +of the hog differently prepared; for almost every part of the animal, +either fresh, salted, or dried, is used for food; and even those viscera +not so employed are of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view. + +777. THOUGH DESTITUTE OF THE HIDE, HORNS, AND HOOFS, constituting the +offal of most domestic animals, the pig is not behind the other mammalia +in its usefulness to man. Its skin, especially that of the boar, from +its extreme closeness of texture, when tanned, is employed for the seats +of saddles, to cover powder, shot, and drinking-flasks; and the hair, +according to its colour, flexibility, and stubbornness, is manufactured +into tooth, nail, and hairbrushes,--others into hat, clothes, and +shoe-brushes; while the longer and finer qualities are made into long +and short brooms and painters' brushes; and a still more rigid +description, under the name of "bristles," are used by the shoemaker as +needles for the passage of his wax-end. Besides so many benefits and +useful services conferred on man by this valuable animal, his fat, in a +commercial sense, is quite as important as his flesh, and brings a price +equal to the best joints in the carcase. This fat is rendered, or melted +out of the caul, or membrane in which it is contained, by boiling water, +and, while liquid, run into prepared bladders, when, under the name of +_lard_, it becomes an article of extensive trade and value. + +778. OF THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF THE DOMESTICATED HOG, the following +list of breeds may be accepted as the best, presenting severally all +those qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock, as affecting +both the breeder and the consumer. _Native_--Berkshire, Essex, York, and +Cumberland; _Foreign_--the Chinese. Before, however, proceeding with the +consideration of the different orders, in the series we have placed +them, it will be necessary to make a few remarks relative to the pig +generally. In the first place, the _Black Pig_ is regarded by breeders +as the best and most eligible animal, not only from the fineness and +delicacy of the skin, but because it is less affected by the heat in +summer, and far less subject to cuticular disease than either the white +or brindled hog, but more particularly from its kindlier nature and +greater aptitude to fatten. + +779. THE GREAT QUALITY FIRST SOUGHT FOR IN A HOG is a capacious stomach, +and next, a healthy power of digestion; for the greater the quantity he +can eat, and the more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten, the more +quickly will he fatten; and the faster he can be made to increase in +flesh, without a material increase of bone, the better is the breed +considered, and the more valuable the animal. In the usual order of +nature, the development of flesh and enlargement of bone proceed +together; but here the object is to outstrip the growth of the bones by +the quicker development of their fleshy covering. + +780. THE CHIEF POINTS SOUGHT FOR IN THE CHOICE OF A HOG are breadth of +chest, depth of carcase, width of loin, chine, and ribs, compactness of +form, docility, cheerfulness, and general beauty of appearance. The head +in a well-bred hog must not be too long, the forehead narrow and convex, +cheeks full, snout fine, mouth small, eyes small and quick, ears short, +thin, and sharp, pendulous, and pointing forwards; neck full and broad, +particularly on the top, where it should join very broad shoulders; the +ribs, loin, and haunch should be in a uniform line, and the tail well +set, neither too high nor too low; at the same time the back is to be +straight or slightly curved, the chest deep, broad, and prominent, the +legs short and thick; the belly, when well fattened, should nearly touch +the ground, the hair be long, thin, fine, and having few bristles, and +whatever the colour, uniform, either white, black, or blue; but not +spotted, speckled, brindled, or sandy. Such are the features and +requisites that, among breeders and judges, constitute the _beau ideal_ +of a perfect pig. + +[Illustration: BERKSHIRE SOW.] + +781. THE BERKSHIRE PIG IS THE BEST KNOWN AND MOST ESTEEMED of all our +English domestic breeds, and so highly is it regarded, that even the +varieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breed +itself. The characteristics of the Berkshire hog are that it has a tawny +colour, spotted with black, large ears hanging over the eyes, a thick, +close, and well-made body, legs short and small in the bone; feeds up to +a great weight, fattens quickly, and is good either for pork or bacon. +The New or Improved Berkshire possesses all the above qualities, but is +infinitely more prone to fatten, while the objectionable colour has been +entirely done away with, being now either all white or completely black. + +[Illustration: ESSEX SOW.] + +782. NEXT TO THE FORMER, THE ESSEX takes place in public estimation, +always competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. The +peculiar characters of the Essex breed are that it is tip-eared, has a +long sharp head, is roach-backed, with a long flat body, standing high +on the legs; is rather bare of hair, is a quick feeder, has an enormous +capacity of stomach and belly, and an appetite to match its receiving +capability. Its colour is white, or else black and white, and it has a +restless habit and an unquiet disposition. The present valuable stock +has sprung from a cross between the common native animal and either the +White Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds. + +[Illustration: YORKSHIRE SOW.] + +783. THE YORKSHIRE, CALLED ALSO THE OLD LINCOLNSHIRE, was at one time +the largest stock of the pig family in England, and perhaps, at that +time, the worst. It was long-legged, weak in the loins, with coarse +white curly hair, and flabby flesh. Now, however, it has undergone as +great a change as any breed in the kingdom, and by judicious crossing +has become the most valuable we possess, being a very well-formed pig +throughout, with a good head, a pleasant docile countenance, with +moderate-sized drooping ears, a broad back, slightly curved, large chine +and loins, with deep sides, full chest, and well covered with long +thickly-set white hairs. Besides these qualities of form, he is a quick +grower, feeds fast, and will easily make from 20 to 25 stone before +completing his first year. The quality of the meat is also uncommonly +good, the fat and lean being laid on in almost equal proportions. So +capable is this species of development, both in flesh and stature, that +examples of the Yorkshire breed have been exhibited weighing as much as +a Scotch ox. + +[Illustration: CUMBERLAND SOW.] + +784. THOUGH ALMOST EVERY COUNTRY IN ENGLAND can boast some local variety +or other of this useful animal, obtained from the native stock by +crossing with some of the foreign kinds, Cumberland and the north-west +parts of the kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of white +pigs, with a thick, compact, and well-made body, short in the legs, the +head and back well formed, ears slouching and a little downwards, and on +the whole, a hardy, profitable animal, and one well disposed to fatten. + +785. THERE IS NO VARIETY OF THIS USEFUL ANIMAL that presents such +peculiar features as the species known to us as the Chinese pig; and as +it is the general belief that to this animal and the Neapolitan hog we +are indebted for that remarkable improvement which has taken place in +the breeds of the English pig, it is necessary to be minute in the +description of this, in all respects, singular animal. The Chinese, in +the first place, consists of many varieties, and presents as many forms +of body as differences of colour; the best kind, however, has a +beautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy; the hair too is +perfectly white, and thinly set over the body, with here and there a few +bristles. He has a broad snout, short head, eyes bright and fiery, very +small fine pink ears, wide cheeks, high chine, with a neck of such +immense thickness, that when the animal is fat it looks like an +elongated carcase,--a mass of fat, without shape or form, like a feather +pillow. The belly is dependent, and almost trailing on the ground, the +legs very short, and the tail so small as to be little more than a +rudiment. It has a ravenous appetite, and will eat anything that the +wonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest; and to that +capability, there seems no limit in the whole range of animal or +vegetable nature. The consequence of this perfect and singularly rapid +digestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity, a process of +fattening that, once commenced, goes on with such rapid development, +that, in a short time, it loses all form, depositing such an amount of +fat, that it in fact ceases to have any refuse part or offal, and, +beyond the hair on its back and the callous extremity of the snout, _the +whole carcase is eatable_. + +[Illustration: CHINESE SOW.] + +786. WHEN JUDICIOUSLY FED ON VEGETABLE DIET, and this obese tendency +checked, the flesh of the Chinese pig is extremely delicate and +delicious; but when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food, it +becomes oily, coarse, and unpleasant. Perhaps there is no other instance +in nature where the effect of rapid and perfect digestion is so well +shown as in this animal, which thrives on _everything_, and turns to the +benefit of its physical economy, food of the most _opposite nature_, and +of the most unwholesome and _offensive_ character. When fully fattened, +the thin cuticle, that is one of its characteristics, cracks, from the +adipose distension beneath, exposing the fatty mass, which discharges a +liquid oil from the adjacent tissues. The great fault in this breed is +the remarkably small quantity of lean laid down, to the immense +proportion of fat. Some idea of the growth of this species may be +inferred from the fact of their attaining to 18 stone before two years, +and when further advanced, as much as 40 stone. In its pure state, +except for roasters, the Chinese pig is too disproportionate for the +English market; but when crossed with some of our lean stock, the breed +becomes almost invaluable. + +[Illustration: WESTPHALIAN BOAR.] + +787. THE WILD BOAR is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than the +domesticated hog; he is longer in the snout, has his ears shorter and +his tusks considerably longer, very frequently measuring as much as 10 +inches. They are extremely sharp, and are bent in an upward circle. +Unlike his domestic brother, who roots up here and there, or wherever +his fancy takes, the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines or +furrows. The boar, when selected as the parent of a stock, should have a +small head, be deep and broad in the chest; the chine should be arched, +the ribs and barrel well rounded, with the haunches falling full down +nearly to the hock; and he should always be more compact and smaller +than the female. The colour of the wild boar is always of a uniform hue, +and generally of an iron grey; shading off into a black. The hair of the +boar is of considerable length, especially about the head and mane; he +stands, in general, from 20 to 30 inches in height at the shoulders, +though instances have occurred where he has reached 42 inches. The young +are of a pale yellowish tint, irregularly brindled with light brown. The +boar of Germany is a large and formidable animal, and the hunting of +him, with a small species of mastiff, is still a national sport. From +living almost exclusively on acorns and nuts, his flesh is held in great +esteem, and in Westphalia his legs are made into hams by a process +which, it is said, enhances the flavour and quality of the meat in a +remarkable degree. + +788. THERE ARE TWO POINTS to be taken into consideration by all breeders +of pigs--to what ultimate use is the flesh to be put; for, if meant to +be eaten fresh, or simply salted, the _small_ breed of pigs is host +suited for the purpose; if for hams or bacon, the large variety of the +animal is necessary. Pigs are usually weaned between six and eight weeks +after birth, after which they are fed on soft food, such as mashed +potatoes in skimmed or butter-milk. The general period at which the +small hogs are killed for the market is from 12 to 16 weeks; from 4 to 5 +mouths, they are called store pigs, and are turned out to graze till the +animal has acquired its full stature. As soon as this point has been +reached, the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible; he +should therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard, and shut up on +boiled potatoes, buttermilk, and peas-meal, after a time to be followed +by grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and Indian meal; supplying his sty at +the same time with plenty of water, cinders, and a quantity of salt in +every mess of food presented to him. + +789. THE ESTIMATED NUMBER OF PIGS IN GREAT BRITAIN is supposed to exceed +20 millions; and, considering the third of the number as worth L2 +apiece, and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of _10s_. +each, would give a marketable estimate of over L20,000,000 for this +animal alone. + +790. THE BEST AND MOST HUMANE MODE OF KILLING ALL LARGE HOGS is to +strike them down like a bullock, with the pointed end of a poleaxe, on +the forehead, which has the effect of killing the animal at once; all +the butcher has then to do, is to open the aorta and great arteries, and +laying the animal's neck over a trough, let out the blood as quickly as +possible. The carcase is then to be scalded, either on a board or by +immersion in a tub of very hot water, and all the hair and dirt rapidly +scraped off, till the skin is made perfectly white, when it is hung up, +opened, and dressed, as it is called, in the usual way. It is then +allowed to cool, a sheet being thrown around the carcase, to prevent the +air from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin. When meant for bacon, the +hair is singed instead of being scalded off. + +791. IN THE COUNTRY, where for ordinary consumption the pork killed for +sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the London +consumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean, +and, salting that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further, +and is consequently a more economical food than other meats, simply +because the texture is closer, and there is less waste in the cooking, +either in roasting or boiling. + +792. IN FRESH PORK, the leg is the most economical family joint, and the +loin the richest. + +793. COMPARATIVELY SPEAKING, very little difference exists between the +weight of the live and dead pig, and this, simply because there is +neither the head nor the hide to be removed. It has been proved that +pork loses in cooking 13-1/2, per cent. of its weight. A salted hand +weighing 4 lbs. 5 oz. lost in the cooking 11 oz.; after cooking, the +meat weighing only 3 lbs. 1 oz., and the bone 9 oz. The original cost +was 7-1/2d. a pound; but by this deduction, the cost rose to 9d. per +pound with the bone, and 10-1/4d. without it. + +794. PORK, TO BE PRESERVED, is cured in several ways,--either by +covering it with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it is +kept till required; or it is only partially salted, and then hung up to +dry, when the meat is called white bacon; or, after salting, it is hung +in wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from the +wood. The Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as the finest in the +kingdom, is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large wooden +troughs, and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered +bay-salt, made hot in a frying-pan. This process is repeated for four +days; they are then left for three weeks, merely turning the flitches +every other day. After that time they are hung up to dry. The hogs +usually killed for purposes of bacon in England average from 18 to 20 +stone; on the other hand, the hogs killed in the country for farm-house +purposes, seldom weigh less than 26 stone. The legs of boars, hogs, and, +in Germany, those of bears, are prepared differently, and called hams. + +795. THE PRACTICE IN VOGUE FORMERLY in this country was to cut out the +hams and cure them separately; then to remove the ribs, which were +roasted as "spare-ribs," and, curing the remainder of the side, call it +a "gammon of bacon." + +Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most places +throughout the kingdom, as represented in the engraving. The sale is +divided with nine ribs to the fore quarter; and the following is an +enumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters:-- + + 1. The leg. + HIND QUARTER 2. The loin. + 3. The spring, or belly. + + 4. The hand. + FORE QUARTER 5. The fore-loin. + 6. The cheek. + +[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.] + +The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may be +as follows; viz.:-- + + The leg 8 lbs. + The loin and spring 7 lbs. + The hand 6 lbs. + The chine 7 lbs. + The cheek from 2 to 3 lbs. + +Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and when cured are +called hams: when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade and +bones and cured, it is called bacon. The bones, with part of the meat +left on them, are divided into spare-ribs, griskins, and chines. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +PORK CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +796. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast loin of pork, 1 oz. of +butter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper +and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard. + +_Mode_.--Cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, +and chop the onions. Put the butter into a stewpan, lay in the cutlets +and chopped onions, and fry a light brown; then add the remaining +ingredients, simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and serve. + +_Time_.--5 to 7 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + AUSTRIAN METHOD OF HERDING PIGS.--In the Austrian empire there + are great numbers of wild swine, while, among the wandering + tribes peopling the interior of Hungary, and spreading over the + vast steppes of that country, droves of swine form a great + portion of the wealth of the people, who chiefly live on a + coarse bread and wind-dried bacon. + + In German Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous + districts of continental Europe, though the inhabitants, almost + everywhere, as in England, keep one or more pigs, they are at + little or no trouble in feeding them, one or more men being + employed by one or several villages as swine-herds; who, at a + certain hour, every morning, call for the pig or pigs, and + driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and + in the wood, take custody of the herd till, on the approach of + night, they are collected into a compact body and driven home + for a night's repose in their several sties. + + The amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in + these mountain regions, is much more considerable than that + usually allowed to this animal, and the manner in which these + immense herds of swine are collected, and again distributed, + without an accident or mistake, is a sight both curious and + interesting; for it is all done without the assistance of a dog, + or the aid even of the human voice, and solely by the crack of + the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip, which the swine-herd + carries, and cracks much after the fashion of the French + postilion; and which, though he frequently cracks, waking a + hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks, he seldom has to + use correctionally; the animal soon acquiring a thorough + knowledge of the meaning of each crack; and once having felt its + leaded thong, a lasting remembrance of its power. At early dawn, + the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the first + village, and begins flourishing through the misty air his + immensely long lash, keeping a sort of rude time with the crack, + crack, crack, crack, crack, crack of his whip. The nearest pigs, + hearing the well-remembered sound, rouse from their straw, and + rush from their sties into the road, followed by all their + litters. As soon as a sufficient number are collected, the drove + is set in motion, receiving, right and left, as they advance, + fresh numbers; whole communities, or solitary individuals, + streaming in from all quarters, and taking their place, without + distinction, in the general herd; and, as if conscious where + their breakfast lay, without wasting a moment on idle + investigation, all eagerly push on to the mountains. In this + manner village after village is collected, till the drove not + unfrequently consists of several thousands. The feeding-ground + has, of course, often to be changed, and the drove have + sometimes to be driven many miles, and to a considerable height + up the mountain, before the whip gives the signal for the + dispersion of the body and the order to feed, when the herdsman + proceeds to form himself a shelter, and look after his own + comfort for the rest of the day. As soon as twilight sets in, + the whip is again heard echoing the signal for muster; and in + the same order in which they were collected, the swine are + driven back, each group tailing off to its respective sty, as + the herd approaches the villages, till the last grunter, having + found his home, the drover seeks his cottage and repose. + +PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. + +I. + +797. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trim +them neatly, and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season them +with pepper; place the gridiron on the fire; when quite hot, lay on the +chops and broil them for about 1/4 hour, turning them 3 or 4 times; and +be particular that they are _thoroughly_ done, but not dry. Dish them, +sprinkle over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato sauce, +sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be laid round +the dish as a garnish. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for chops. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +II. + +(_Another Way_.) + +798. INGREDIENTS.--Loin or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread crumbs, +salt and pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow +1/2 teaspoonful of minced sage; clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork; trim them +the same as mutton cutlets, and scrape the top part of the bone. Brush +them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been +mixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and salt; drop a little +clarified butter on them, and press the crumbs well down. Put the +frying-pan on the fire, put in some lard; when this is hot, lay in the +cutlets, and fry them a light brown on both sides. Take them out, put +them before the fire to dry the greasy moisture from them, and dish them +on mashed potatoes. Serve with them any sauce that may be preferred; +such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins. + +_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for chops. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 cutlets for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + +_Note_.--The remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the same +manner. + + +PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Dish). + +799. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to taste, +1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very small +bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, 1/2 +teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; good strong gravy, sufficient to fill +the mould. + +_Mode_.--Cut, but do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and allow 1/4 +lb. of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt; pound +well the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, and +lemon-peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould, fill +up with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more than one +hour. When cold, turn it out of the mould. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +ROAST LEG OF PORK. + +[Illustration: ROAST LEG OF PORK.] + +800. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of pork, a little oil for stuffing. (See Recipe +No. 504.) + +_Mode_.--Choose a small leg of pork, and score the skin across in narrow +strips, about 1/4 inch apart. Cut a slit in the knuckle, loosen the +skin, and fill it with a sage-and-onion stuffing, made by Recipe No. +504. Brush the joint over with a little salad-oil (this makes the +crackling crisper, and a better colour), and put it down to a bright, +clear fire, not too near, as that would cause the skin to blister. Baste +it well, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and do +not omit to send to table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce. +(Sec No. 363.) + +_Time_.--A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., about 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + ENGLISH MODE OF HUNTING, AND INDIAN PIG-STICKING.--The hunting + of the wild boar has been in all times, and in all countries, a + pastime of the highest interest and excitement, and from the age + of Nimrod, has only been considered second to the more dangerous + sport of lion-hunting. The buried treasures of Nineveh, restored + to us by Mr. Layard, show us, on their sculptured annals, the + kings of Assyria in their royal pastime of boar-hunting. That + the Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, we know + both from history and the romantic fables of the poets. Marc + Antony, at one of his breakfasts with Cleopatra, had _eight wild + boars_ roasted whole; and though the Romans do not appear to + have been addicted to hunting, wild-boar fights formed part of + their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France, + Germany, and Britain, from the earliest time, the boar-hunt + formed one of the most exciting of sports; but it was only in + this country that the sport was conducted without dogs,--a real + hand-to-hand contest of man and beast; the hunter, armed only + with a boar-spear, a weapon about four feet long, the ash staff, + guarded by plates of steel, and terminating in a long, narrow, + and very sharp blade: this, with a hunting-knife, or hanger, + completed his offensive arms. Thus equipped, the hunter would + either encounter his enemy face to face, confront his desperate + charge, as with erect tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, he + rushed with his foamy tusks full against him, who either sought + to pierce his vitals through his counter, or driving his spear + through his chine, transfix his heart; or failing those more + difficult aims, plunge it into his flank, and, without + withdrawing the weapon, strike his ready hanger into his throat. + But expert as the hunter might be, it was not often the + formidable brute was so quickly dispatched; for he would + sometimes seize the spear in his powerful teeth, and nip it off + like a reed, or, coming full tilt on his enemy, by his momentum + and weight bear him to the earth, ripping up, with a horrid + gash, his leg or side, and before the writhing hunter could draw + his knife, the infuriated beast would plunge his snout in the + wound, and rip, with savage teeth, the bowels of his victim. At + other times, he would suddenly swerve from his charge, and + doubling on his opponent, attack the hunter in the rear. From + his speed, great weight, and savage disposition, the wild boar + is always a dangerous antagonist, and requires great courage, + coolness, and agility on the part of the hunter. The continental + sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade, with music and + dogs,--a kind of small hound or mastiff, and leaving all the + honorary part of the contest to them, when the boar is becoming + weary, and while beset by the dogs, rides up, and drives his + lance home in the beast's back or side. Boar-hunting has been + for some centuries obsolete in England, the animal no longer + existing in a wild state among us; but in our Indian empire, and + especially in Bengal, the pastime is pursued by our countrymen + with all the daring of the national character; and as the animal + which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe, + the sport is attended with great excitement. The hunters, + mounted on small, active horses, and armed only with long + lances, ride, at early daylight, to the skirts of the jungle, + and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait till + the tusked monster comes crashing from among the canes, when + chase is immediately given, till he is come up with, and + transfixed by the first weapon. Instead of flight, however, he + often turns to bay, and by more than one dead horse and wounded + hunter, shows how formidable he is, and what those polished + tusks, sharp as pitch-forks, can effect, when the enraged animal + defends his life. + +TO GLAZE HAM.--(See Recipe No. 430.) + +HASHED PORK. + +801. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1 +teaspoonful of flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1 +tablespoonful of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork into +thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to the +remaining ingredients. Stew gently for about 1/2 hour, and serve +garnished with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS. + +802. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; eggs. + +_Mode_.--Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts, and +cut off the rind. Put it into a cold frying-pan, that is to say, do not +place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3 +times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them on +to the bacon, without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the +primest parts. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish to +many dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitute +for boiled bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c. + + +BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish). + +803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free from +rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and for +broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the most +esteemed. Cut it into _thin_ slices, take off the rind, and broil over a +nice clear fire; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should there +be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well for +breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled round +and fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before the +fire. + + +BOILED BACON. + +804. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; water. + +[Illustration: BOILED BACON.] + +_Mode_.--As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in +warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the +rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. +Put it into a saucepan of _cold_ water, let it come gradually to a boil, +and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it. +Let it simmer very gently until it is _thoroughly_ done; then take it +up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread +raspings, and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. +When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the +usual accompaniments. + +_Time_.--1 lb. of bacon, 1/4 hour; 2 lbs., 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts. + +_Sufficient_.--2 lbs., when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for +10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY. + +805. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of bay-salt, 6 +oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt. + +_Mode_.--Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for +24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rub +it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month; +then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days. + +_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days. + +_Sufficient_.--The above quantity of salt for 1 pig. + + HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED.--Though unquestionably + far greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than + formerly, every peasant having one or more of that useful + animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the + franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a + regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household, + their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the + castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or + forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or + grant, what was called _free warren_, or the liberty to feed his + hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay in such + abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal + or privileged game to consume. Indeed, it was the license + granted the nobles of free warren, especially for their swine, + that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and + covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts + of wood and brake, to the injury of agriculture and the misery + of the people. Some idea of the extent to which swine were + grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the + number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean, + and the New Forest, in Hampshire, where, for several months of + the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a + diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated, + the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous; and + consequently the pig, both wild and domestic, has, for a + considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of + admirable nourishment. Impressed with the value of this fruit + for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort has, with great + judgment, of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in + Windsor Park, and by giving a small reward to old people and + children for every bushel collected, has not only found an + occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a + gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of + providence and economy. + +FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE FROM RUST (Cobbett's Recipe). + +806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, and which are called flitches, are to be +cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or +flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in +a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the +brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be +sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and +sea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry +salt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the salt +often,--once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie too +long; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on +the top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the +sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, +nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches +sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time +for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather, +or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of five +score, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and as +yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give +time enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again. + +807. THE PLACE FOR SALTING SHOULD, like a dairy, always be cool, but +well ventilated; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than +the midday day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the +bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where +no rain comes down upon them; and next, that the smoke must proceed from +wood, not peat, turf, or coal. As to the time required to smoke a +flitch, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire +beneath; and whether the fire be large or small: a month will do, if the +fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farmhouse fire usually is; but +over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon +rust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The +flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it +ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, +scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine +sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down +upon it: this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and +makes a sort of crust to be dried on. + +808. To KEEP THE BACON SWEET AND GOOD, and free from hoppers, sift fine +some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest +long enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay in one flitch, and then put +in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight +inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to +be dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the +fireplace to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions, +the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day. + +809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these may be safely taken as a guide; and +those who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at the +expiration of from 6 weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured +bacon. + + HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON.--As Lord Bacon, on one + occasion, was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the + name of Hogg, who had just been tried for a long career of + crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of + judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he + addressed the bench, "I claim indulgence, my lord, on the plea + of relationship; for I am convinced your lordship will never be + unnatural enough to hang one of your own family." + + "Indeed, replied the judge, with some amazement," I was not + aware that I had the honour of your alliance; perhaps you will + be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity." + + "I am sorry, my lord," returned the impudent thief, "I cannot + trace the links of consanguinity; but the moral evidence is + sufficiently pertinent. My name, my lord, is Hogg, your + lordship's is Bacon; and all the world will allow that bacon and + hog are very closely allied." + + "I am sorry," replied his lordship, "I cannot admit the truth of + your instance: hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so, + before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge the family compact, + Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning." + +TO BAKE A HAM. + +810. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; a common crust. + +Mode.--As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water +for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places +underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this is +of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a +moderately-heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust, +and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and +garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is, +by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as it cuts +fuller of gravy and has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longer +time good. + +_Time_.--A medium-sized ham, 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + +TO BOIL A HAM. + +[Illustration: BOILED HAM.] + +811. INGREDIENTS.--Ham, water, glaze or raspings. + +_Mode_.--In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by +running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knife +is withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on the +contrary, the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham +is bad. If it has been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let it +remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length +of time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to +12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash +it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side, all the rusty +and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a +boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it gradually +to boil, and as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmering +very gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling, +nor boil too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off the +skin, and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cut +paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham +remain in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices are +kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of +the water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must +_not_ remain in the saucepan _all_ night. When the skin is removed, +sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it. +Place a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cut +vegetable flowers. (_See_ Coloured Plate P.) + +_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to _simmer gently_; 15 lbs., 5 +hours; a very large one, about 5 hours. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham. + +_Seasonable_ all the year. + + +HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT FLAVOUR. + +812. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3 +onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs. + +_Mode_.--Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for +a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it +boils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, +take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a +paper ruche or frill round the knuckle. + +_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V.--When the emperor + Charles V. was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna, + full of pious considerations, engendered by the thoughts of the + Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was much annoyed by + the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little + way before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise, + "Have you not learned how to quiet a pig" demanded the imperial + traveller, tartly. "Noa," replied the ingenuous peasant, + ignorant of the quality of his interrogator;--"noa; and I should + very much like to know how to do it," changing the position of + his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the + ear, which immediately altered the tone and volume of his + complaining. + + "Why, take the pig by the tail," said the emperor, "and you will + see how quiet he will become." + + Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once + dangled his noisy companion by the tail, and soon discovered + that, under the partial congestion caused by its inverted + position, the pig had indeed become silent; when, looking with + admiration on his august adviser, he exclaimed,-- + + "Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you + understand it a great deal better." + +FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish). + +813. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; eggs. + +_Mode_.--Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of the +same thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should be +particularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to soak it +for about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth. Put it +into a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4 +times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them on a dish, which +should be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs are +being poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the slices of ham, and +serve quickly. + +_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the latter +method, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifully +clear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable. + +POTTED HAM, that will keep Good for some time. + +I. + +814. INGREDIENTS.--To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2 +teaspoonfuls of pounded mace, 1/2 nutmeg grated, rather more than 1/2 +teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified lard. + +_Mode_.--Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above proportion, +and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded +mace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish, and bake for +1/2 hour; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar with +clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of thick +paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and will be +found very convenient for sandwiches, &c. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +II. + +(_A nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table_.) + +815. INGREDIENTS.--To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow 1/2 lb. of fat, 1 +teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/2 +nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince them +small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean, allow the above proportion of fat. +Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually add +the seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all the +ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press the +mixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in a +cool place. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c.--The boar's + head, in ancient times, formed the most important dish on the + table, and was invariably the first placed on the board upon + Christmas-day, being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish + of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and + carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord + of the feast. At some of our colleges and inns of court, the + serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas-day + is a custom still followed; and till very lately, a bore's head + was competed for at Christmas time by the young men of a rural + parish in Essex. Indeed, so highly was the grizzly boar's head + regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of + some of the noblest families in the realm: thus it was not only + the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, with their collateral + houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III., that-- + + "Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar, + That spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines, + Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough + In your embowell'd bosoms,"-- + + and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally + used as a _sign_ to taverns. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap, + which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all + its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the + London-bridge approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every + reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of the prince of Wales, + Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff and his + coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; and whose sign + was a boar's head, carved in stone over the door, and a smaller + one in wood on each side of the doorway. + + The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in + connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in + all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable connected with the + subject in this country, were two events that occurred in + Scotland, about the 11th and 15th centuries. + + A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and + lands by a more powerful chief, were reduced for many years to + great indigence, the expelled owner only living in the hope of + wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of + his house, he was content to "bide his time" for. The usurper + having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in + his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned + from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his + wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors. + At length a menial approached, followed by a line of servants, + and placing the boar's head on the table, the guests rushed + forward to begin the meal; when, to their horror, they + discovered, not a boar's but a bull's head,--a sign of death. + The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who + were the adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their + disguise, and falling on the usurper and his friends, butchered + them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival + faction. + + A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western + Highlands, having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of + the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put them all to the + sword, and cutting off the chief's head, repaired to his castle, + where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food + and drink. To appease their savage humour, the lady gave order + for their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to see her + orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar's + head that should have graced the board, her husband's bleeding + head; the savage caterans, in rude derision, as a substitute for + the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having + thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth. + +FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe). + +816. INGREDIENTS.--For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1 +lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart of +good vinegar. + +_Mode_.--As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hams +and rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3 +days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams, and +throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in the +above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into a +vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Let +them remain for 3 days, then pour over them a quart of good vinegar. +Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, and +rub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particular +that the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire; otherwise +the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard. + +_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA.--In one of the native states of + Africa, a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it + was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth; upon which + the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her + hovel to ascertain the cause; and seeing the purloining pig make + off munching his booty, the woman in her heat struck the grunter + so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into his head to + go home very much indisposed, and after a certain time resolved + to die,--a resolution that he accordingly put into practice; + upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the + Star Chamber court of his tribe, against the husband and family + of the woman whose rash act had led to such results; and as the + pig happened to be a _sow_, in the very flower of her age, the + prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs, with + the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages + and costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay + them. And as, in the barbarous justice existing among these rude + people, every member of a family is equally liable as the + individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother, + children, relatives,--an entire community, to the number of + _thirty-two souls_, were sold as slaves, and a fearful sum of + human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old + sow. + +TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each. + +817. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of +bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt. + +_Mode_.--Two days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well +with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes from them +away, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a +deep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above proportion of +treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 1/4 hour, and pour +this pickle boiling hot over the hams: there should be sufficient of it +to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it; afterwards they +will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3 +weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly +or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled in this way is most +excellent, to be eaten either green or smoked. + +_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked about +a month. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY. + +818. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb. +of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer. + +_Mode_.--Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day +well with salt, and drain the brine well from them. Put the above +ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 1/4 hour; pour over the hams, +and let them remain a month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day, +but do not take them out of the pickling-pan; and have them smoked for a +month. + +_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe). + +819. INGREDIENTS.--To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse +sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 a teacupful of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or +two to drain; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar, salt, +saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the +pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire +for 3 weeks or a month. + +_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or 1 +month. + +_Sufficient_.--The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham. + +_Seasonable_.--Hams should be pickled from October to March. + + NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG.--It is a well-known fact, + that in Ireland the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated + animal, sharing often both the bed and board of the family, and + making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated round + the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called + dinner. An Irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting + member of his household, in the form of a promising young + porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted + at the person he suspected of purloining the "illegant slip of a + pig" he was advised to take no further notice of the matter, but + leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday his + reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and + looking very hard at the supposed culprit, exclaimed, "Who stole + Pat Doolan's pig?" To this inquiry there was of course no + answer;--the priest did not expect there would be any. The + following Sunday the same query was propounded a little + stronger--"Who of you was it, I say, who stole poor Pat Doolan's + pig?" It now became evident that the culprit was a hardened + sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the + unsatisfactory inquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the + obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious sorrow, "Mike Regan, + Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, when the + family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly + lifted, and the "illegant slip of a pig" cautiously slipped into + the cabin. + +TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME. + +820. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to +put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. +Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan +filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the +tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the +iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, +cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain +40 hours, and keep up a good smoke. + + +TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY. + +821. INGREDIENTS.--To every 14 lbs. of meat, allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2 +oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons of +water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of +bay-salt. + +_Mode_.--Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. allow +the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common salt. Pound +and mix these together, and rub well into the meat; lay it in a stone +trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it daily for 2 +successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made +as follows:--Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on the +fire, and stir frequently; remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 1/4 +hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c., be well rubbed +and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient +for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3 +weeks; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the +sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces +out, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from +a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using, +and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for +use, add about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allow +for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been +first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24 +hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of +the tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A +fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be +sufficient. + +_Time_--Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams 3 weeks; to +be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks. + +The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture," and will be +found fully worthy of the high character of that publication. + + +CURING OF HAMS AND BACON. + +822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid +on a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at +the neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are +removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following +manner:--The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side, +and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the +internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it, +throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of +the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge--the breadth of the +interior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch of +the ribs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at the +exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first +anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of +the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noticed, is +a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, +which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the +hock-bone, in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of +mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, +which process, in large caring establishments, is generally as follows. +The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts +by weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised +parts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered with +the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to +each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches +slightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the +brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards +used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon +remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of a +carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a +larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed +in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the +first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and +incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week. +Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lbs. +weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the +above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of +bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is +effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room +heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the +same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the +sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the +curing process has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat is +subject to the action of _creosote_, a volatile oil produced by the +combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process +also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air +not only from the muscle but also from the fat; thus effectually +preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for +condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork +are, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in +the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the +air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its +superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which +smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is +therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by +mercantile curers. A very impure variety of _pyroligneous_ acid, or +vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes +used, on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which +it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter +object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that +derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion +of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country +packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process, +without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above +described, pork loses from eight to ten per cent. of its weight, +according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution +of weight, to the extent of five to six per cent., takes place in drying +during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the +total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in +a proper state for market, is not less on an average than fifteen per +cent. on the weight of the fresh pork. + + +COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish). + +823. INGREDIENTS.--1 pig's face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of spring +water, 1 lb. of common salt, 1/2 handful of chopped juniper-berries, 6 +bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, 1/4 +oz. of saltpetre. For forcemeat, 1/2 lb. of ham, 1/2 lb. bacon, 1 +teaspoonful of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 +tablespoonful of minced parsley, 6 young onions. + +[Illustration: PIG'S FACE.] + +_Mode_.--Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin, +and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above +ingredients for 1/4 hour, and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pour +it over the head, and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning and +rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, pound +the ham and bacon very finely, and mix with these the remaining +ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. +Spread this equally over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind +it securely with broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meat +trimmings, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours, +and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time. When +quite tender, take it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on +the top, and when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent to +table on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a +ruche at the top. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG.--The domestic hog is the descendant + of a race long since banished from this island; and it is + remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been and is kept + under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has + maintained itself in its ancient freedom, the fierce denizen of + the forest, and one of the renowned beasts of the chase. + Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the + horse, the ox, and others, or as to whether their original race + is yet extant or not, these doubts do not apply to the domestic + hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally + recognized: like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from + our island; but, like that animal, it still roams through the + vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia. + +TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savoury Dish). + +824. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves, +3 lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over it +some minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; slice +the potatoes; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat fry, +then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. Fill the dish +with boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + +TO MELT LARD. + +825. Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting it in a stone jar, and +placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off +the skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pour +it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for +use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig, +before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly +wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and +occasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, +and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + + +BOILED LEG OF PORK. + +826. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of pork; salt. + +_Mode_.--For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub +it well with salt; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, +turning and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put it +into cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork is +purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle, +and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold +water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum +as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it to +boil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the +leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, +some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish, and a +well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment. + +_Time_.--A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils, +and to be simmered very gently. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Note_.--The liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled, makes +excellent pea-soup. + + ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.--The hog has survived changes which have + swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of + our earth. It still presents the same characteristics, both + physical and moral, which the earliest writers, whether sacred + or profane, have faithfully delineated. Although the domestic + has been more or less modified by long culture, yet the wild + species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may + be identified with the bones of their existing descendants. + +ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK. + +827. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little powdered sage. + +[Illustration: SPARE-RIB OF PORK.] + +[Illustration: GRISKIN OF PORK.] + +_Mode_.--As this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry, +particular care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to a +bright fire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up, +sprinkle over some powdered sage; make a little gravy in the +dripping-pan, strain it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of apple +sauce. This joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is +left on, consequently, should have the greatest attention that it be not +dried up. + +_Time_.--Griskin of pork weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +_Note_.--A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, and +would take 1-1/2 hour for one weighing about 6 lbs. + +[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE.] + +LARDING. + +828. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon and larding-needle. + +_Mode_.--Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured +without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table, +the rinds downwards; trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices of +an equal thickness. Place the slices one on the top of another, and cut +them evenly into narrow strips, so arranging it that every piece of +bacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game, +should be about 2 inches in length, and rather more than one-eighth of +an inch in width. If for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal, the +pieces of bacon must be thicker. The following recipe of Soyer is, we +think, very explicit; and any cook, by following the directions here +given, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently for general use. + +"Have the fricandeau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean napkin +across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part +you are about to commence at; then with the point of the larding-needle +make three distinct lines across, 1/2 inch apart; run the needle into +the third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and bring it out +at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it; draw the needle +through, leaving out 1/4 inch of the bacon at each line; proceed thus to +the end of the row; then make another line, 1/2 inch distant, stick in +another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving +the ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the next row again +at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the +first row, proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded +in chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a similar way; and, in +the case of poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one +minute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to make the flesh firm." + + +ROAST LOIN OF PORK. + +829. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little salt. + +[Illustration: FORE LOIN OF PORK.] + +[Illustration: HIND LOIN OF PORK.] + +_Mode_.--Score the skin in strips rather more than 1/4 inch apart, and +place the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of the +crackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated through, +were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed over with a +little salad oil, and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire. +Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; and be careful never +to send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is more unwholesome +and disagreeable than underdressed white meats. Serve with apple sauce, +No. 363, and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage +and onion may be made separately, and baked in a flat dish: this method +is better than putting it in the meat, as many persons have so great an +objection to the flavour. + +_Time_.--A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours: allow more time +should it be very fat. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG.--In British strata, the oldest fossil + remains of the hog which Professor Owen states that he has + examined, were from fissures in the red crag (probably miocene) + of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were associated + with teeth of an extinct _felis_ about the size of a leopard, + with those of a bear, and with remains of a large cervus. These + mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the + red crag: they had undergone the same process of trituration, + and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the + associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived + from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammaliferous + beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the + fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, in which remains of the + mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered; and still + older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the + remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. are obtained in such + abundance. I have met," says the professor, in addition, "with + some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains + of a species of hog with those of the mammoth, in the newer + pliocene freshwater formations of England." + +TO DRY PIGS' CHEEKS. + +830. INGREDIENTS.--Salt, 4 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of +coarse sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head, +taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape; rub it well +with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following +day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in the +above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head be often +turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for a +week or rather longer. + +_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 week. + +_Seasonable_.--Should be made from September to March. + +_Note_.--A pig's check, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the +water boils. + + +PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish). + +831. INGREDIENTS.--The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of +bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves, +pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water. + +_Mode_.--Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean, and +parboil the potatoes; mince the parsley and sage, and chop the onion +rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep tin dish, in +alternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a seasoning of +pepper and salt between each; pour on a little water or broth, and bake +in a moderately-heated oven for 2 hours. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + +PIG'S PETTITOES. + +832. INGREDIENTS.--A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6 +peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to +taste, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with the +bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these +gently for 1/4 hour; then take out the heart and liver, and mince them +very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be in +from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled up +first; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little +butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle +fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince, +split the feet, and arrange them round alternately with sippets of +toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle. + +_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + +TO PICKLE PORK. + +833. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of saltpetre; salt. + +_Mode_.--As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into +pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of +pork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it +between each piece: as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a coarse +cloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the board, to +keep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air, it will +continue good for nearly 2 years. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for the prime parts. + +_Seasonable_.--The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn. + + THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG.--A singular circumstance in the + domestic history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution + over the surface of the earth; being found even in insulated + places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the + wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, for + example, were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a + small black hog; and the traditionary belief of the people was + that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves. + Yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other + animal of the hog kind, from which the domestic breed might be + supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is the + principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its + principal food, although it is also fed with yams, eddoes, and + other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has in great + abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh + being so delicious, so full of juice, and so rich in fat, which + is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter. + +TO BOIL PICKLED PORK. + +834. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; water. + +_Mode_.--Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2 +hours before it is dressed; put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold +water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer +until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more +disagreeable than underdone pork, and when boiled fast, the meat becomes +hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal, +instead of bacon: when tender, and not over salt, it will be found +equally good. + +_Time_.--A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs., 1-1/4 hour; 4 lbs., +rather more than 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for the primest parts. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.--By what nation and in what period the + hog was reclaimed, is involved in the deepest obscurity. So far + back as we have any records of history, we find notices of this + animal, and of its flesh being used as the food of man. By some + nations, however, its flesh was denounced as unclean, and + therefore prohibited to be used, whilst by others it was + esteemed as a great delicacy. By the Mosaic law it was forbidden + to be eaten by the Jews, and the Mahometans hold it in utter + abhorrence. Dr. Kitto, however, says that there does not appear + to be any reason in the law of Moses why the hog should be held + in such peculiar abomination. There seems nothing to have + prevented the Jews, if they had been so inclined, to rear pigs + for sale, or for the use of the land. In the Talmud there are + some indications that this was actually done; and it was, + probably, for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in + the New Testament were kept, although it is usual to consider + that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land. Indeed, + the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the + Hebrews to the hog, assumes that it did not originate until + about 130 years before Christ, and that, previously, some Jews + were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated. + +PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe). + +835. INGREDIENTS.--For the crust, 5 lbs. of lard to 14 lbs. of flour, +milk, and water. For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. of meat allow 1 +oz. of salt, 2-1/4 oz. of pepper, a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint of +water. + +_Mode_.--Rub into the flour a portion of the lard; the remainder put +with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust, and boil this gently +for 1/4 hour. Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead and beat it till +perfectly smooth. Now raise the crust in either a round or oval form, +cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut, season it in the above +proportion, and press it compactly into the pie, in alternate layers of +fat and lean, and pour in a small quantity of water; lay on the lid, cut +the edges smoothly round, and pinch them together. Bake in a brick oven, +which should be slow, as the meat is very solid. Very frequently, the +inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust. She +should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold, or it will +fall immediately: to prevent this, the operation should be performed as +near the fire as possible. As considerable dexterity and expertness are +necessary to raise the crust with the hand only, a glass bottle or small +jar may be placed in the middle of the paste, and the crust moulded on +this; but be particular that it is kept warm the whole time. + +_Sufficient_.--The proportions for 1 pie are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs. +of meat. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + THE FLESH OF SWINE IN HOT CLIMATES.--It is observed by M. + Sonini, that the flesh of swine, in hot climates, is considered + unwholesome, and therefore may account for its proscription by + the legislators and priests of the East. In Egypt, Syria, and + even the southern parts of Greece, although both white and + delicate, it is so flabby and surcharged with fat, that it + disagrees with the strongest stomachs. Abstinence from it in + general was, therefore, indispensable to health under the + burning suns of Egypt and Arabia. The Egyptians were permitted + to eat it only once a year,--on the feast of the moon; and then + they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet. At + other seasons, should any one even touch a hog, he was obliged + immediately to plunge into the river Nile, as he stood, with his + clothes on, in order to purify himself from the supposed + contamination he had contracted by the touch. + +LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES. + +836. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of mutton +suet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of the neck of pork, 1 +dessertspoonful of powdered sage. + +_Mode_.--Well dry the flour, mince the suet, and put these with the +butter into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add a little salt. When +melted, mix it up into a stiff paste, and put it before the fire with a +cloth over it until ready to make up; chop the pork into small pieces, +season it with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage; divide the paste +into rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval form, fill with +the meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will require a fiercer +oven than those in the preceding recipe, as they are made so much +smaller, and consequently do not require so soaking a heat. + +_Time_.--If made small, about 1-1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + SWINEHERDS OF ANTIQUITY.--From the prejudice against the hog + among the ancients, those who tended them formed an isolated + class, and were esteemed as the outcasts of society. However + much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and + Romans, yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic + writers or the poets who, in ancient Greece and Rome, painted + rural life. We have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending + to the occupation of keeping swine. The swineherd is never + introduced into the idyls of Theocritus, nor has Virgil admitted + him into his eclogues. The Eumaeus of Homer is the only + exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the + eyes of a poet of antiquity. This may be accounted for, on the + supposition that the prejudices of the Egyptians relative to + this class of men, extended to both Greece and Italy, and + imparted a bias to popular opinion. + +TO MAKE SAUSAGES. + +(_Author's Oxford Recipe_.) + +837. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; +1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, the +rind of 1/2 lemon, 1 small nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of +pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of savory, 1/2 +teaspoonful of marjoram. + +_Mode_.--Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the bread +crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small nutmeg +grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these with the +remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, +either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into +little cakes, which should be floured and fried. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for about 30 moderate-sized sausages. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March. + + THE HOG IN ENGLAND.--From time immemorial, in England, this + animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance. In the + Anglo-Saxon period, vast herds of swine were tended by men, who + watched over their safety, and who collected them under shelter + at night. At that time, the flesh of the animal was the staple + article of consumption in every family, and a large portion of + the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these + animals. Hence it was common to make bequests of swine, with + lands for their support; and to these were attached rights and + privileges in connection with their feeding, and the extent of + woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in + accordance with established rules. This is proved by an ancient + Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner, in his "History of the + Anglo-Saxons," where the right of pasturage is conveyed in a + deed by the following words:--"I give food for seventy swine in + that woody allotment which the countrymen call Wolferdinlegh." + +FRIED SAUSAGES. + +[Illustration: FRIED SAUSAGES.] + +838. INGREDIENTS.--Sausages; a small piece of butter. + +_Mode_.--Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them from +bursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter. +Keep moving the pan about, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from +10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked, unless they are _very +large_, when a little more time should be allowed for them. Dish them +with or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very hot. In some +counties, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should be +plunged into boiling water, and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes. + +_Time_.--10 to 12 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_.--Good from September to March. + +_Note_.--Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour; +to prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small +piece of butter to keep them moist. When wanted for table, they will not +require so long frying as uncooked sausages. + + THE SAXON SWINEHERD.--The men employed in herding swine during + the Anglo-Saxon period of our history were, in general, thralls + or born slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, + capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master + came with his spear to the rescue. In the "Ivanhoe" of Sir + Walter Scott, we have an admirable picture, in the character of + Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, as we also have of his master, + a large landed proprietor, a great portion of whose wealth + consisted of swine, and whose rude but plentiful board was + liberally supplied with the flesh. + +SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES. + +839. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of lean pork, add 3/4 lb. of fat bacon, +1/4 oz. of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated +nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley. + +_Mode_.--Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop it +finely with the bacon; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully mix +altogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-sized +cakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes. This +is a very simple method of making sausage-meat, and on trial will prove +very good, its great recommendation being, that it is so easily made. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + +TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG. + +840. Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain +for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2 +minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as +quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the +belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the +pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at the +first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. +If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from +the air. + + THE LEARNED PIG.--That the pig is capable of education, is a + fact long known to the world; and though, like the ass, + naturally stubborn and obstinate, that he is equally amenable + with other animals to caresses and kindness, has been shown from + very remote time; the best modern evidence of his docility, + however, is the instance of the learned pig, first exhibited + about a century since, but which has been continued down to our + own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put + together all the letters or figures that compose the day, month, + hour, and date of the exhibition, besides many other + unquestioned evidences of memory. The instance already given of + breaking a sow into a pointer, till she became more stanch even + than the dog itself, though surprising, is far less wonderful + than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an + animal may be taught not only to spell, but couple figures and + give dates correctly. + +ROAST SUCKING-PIG. + +841. INGREDIENTS.--Pig, 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 16 sage-leaves, pepper +and salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil or +butter to baste with, about 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice. + +[Illustration: ROAST SUCKING-PIG.] + +_Mode_.--A sucking-pig, to be eaten in perfection, should not be more +than three weeks old, and should be dressed the same day that it is +killed. After preparing the pig for cooking, as in the preceding recipe, +stuff it with finely-grated bread crumbs, minced sage, pepper, salt, and +a piece of butter the size of an egg, all of which should be well mixed +together, and put into the body of the pig. Sew up the slit neatly, and +truss the legs back, to allow the inside to be roasted, and the under +part to be crisp. Put the pig down to a bright clear fire, not too near, +and let it lay till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter tied up +in a piece of thin cloth, and rub the pig with this in every part. Keep +it well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting, and +do not allow the crackling to become blistered or burnt. When half-done, +hang a pig-iron before the middle part (if this is not obtainable, use a +flat iron), to prevent its being scorched and dried up before the ends +are done. Before it is taken from the fire, cut off the head, and part +that and the body down the middle. Chop the brains and mix them with the +stuffing; add 1/2 pint of good gravy, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, +and the gravy that flowed from the pig; put a little of this on the dish +with the pig, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Place the pig +back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each side, and +one of the ears at each end, and send it to table as hot as possible. +Instead of butter, many cooks take salad oil for basting, which makes +the crackling crisp; and as this is one of the principal things to be +considered, perhaps it is desirable to use it; but be particular that it +is very pure, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat. The +brains and stuffing may be stirred into a tureen of melted butter +instead of gravy, when the latter is not liked. Apple sauce and the +old-fashioned currant sauce are not yet quite obsolete as an +accompaniment to roast pig. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours for a small pig. + +_Average cost_, 5s. to 6s. + +_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + + HOW ROAST PIG WAS DISCOVERED.--Charles Lamb, who, in the early + part of this century, delighted the reading public by his quaint + prose sketches, written under the title of "Essays of Elia," + has, in his own quiet humorous way, devoted one paper to the + subject of _Roast Pig_, and more especially to that luxurious + and toothsome dainty known as "CRACKLING;" and shows, in a + manner peculiarly his own, _how crackling first came into the + world._ + + According to this erudite authority, man in the golden age, or + at all events the primitive age, eat his pork and bacon raw, as, + indeed, he did his beef and mutton; unless, as Hudibras tells + us, he was an epicure, when he used to make a saddle of his + saddle of mutton, and after spreading it on his horse's back, + and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed, he sat + down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn. At the epoch of + the story, however, a citizen of some Scythian community had the + misfortune to have his hut, or that portion of it containing his + live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going over the _debris_ on + the following day, and picking out all the available salvage, + the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot, + which caused him to shake his hand with great energy, and clap + the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth. The act was + simple and natural, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his + eyes in ecstatic pleasure, his frame distended, and, conscious + of a celestial odour, his nostrils widened, and, while drawing + in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked his + fingers with a gusto he had never, in his most hungry moments, + conceived. Clearing away the rubbish from beneath him, he at + last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs, _roasted to + death_. Stooping down to examine this curious object, and + touching its body, a fragment of the burnt skin was detached, + which, with a sort of superstitious dread, he at length, and in + a spirit of philosophical inquiry, put into his mouth. Ye gods! + the felicity he then enjoyed, no pen can chronicle! Then it was + that he--the world--first tasted _crackling_. Like a miser with + his gold, the Scythian hid his treasure from the prying eyes of + the world, and feasted, in secret, more sumptuously than the + gods. When he had eaten up all his pig, the poor man fell into a + melancholy; he refused the most tempting steak, though cooked on + the horse's back, and turned every half-hour after his own + favourite recipe; he fell, in fact, from his appetite, and was + reduced to a shadow, till, unable longer to endure the torments + of memory he hourly suffered, he rose one night and secretly set + fire to his hut, and once more was restored to flesh and + manhood. Finding it impossible to live in future without + roast-pig, he set fire to his house every time his larder became + empty; till at last his neighbours, scandalized by the frequency + of these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme + council of the nation. To avert the penalty that awaited him, he + brought his judges to the smouldering ruins, and discovering the + secret, invited them to eat; which having done, with tears of + gratitude, the august synod embraced him, and, with an + overflowing feeling of ecstasy, dedicated a statue to the memory + of the man who first _instituted roast pork_. + + +PORK CARVING. + + +SUCKING-PIG. + +[Illustration: SUCKING-PIG.] + +842. A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, rather an elaborate dish, or +rather animal, to carve; but by carefully mastering the details of the +business, every difficulty will vanish; and if a partial failure be at +first made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second +trial. A sucking-pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in the +engraving (and also in coloured plate S), and the first point to be +attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase, by carrying +the knife quickly and neatly round the circular line, as shown by the +figures 1, 2, 3;--the shoulder will then easily come away. The next step +is to take off the leg; and this is done in the same way, by cutting +round this joint in the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, in the +same way as the shoulder. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, +which should be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5; and +two or three helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig +is served, of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are +variously esteemed; some preferring the flesh of the neck; others, the +ribs; and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of a +sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating; but, in carving it, the host +should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keeping the +larger joints, generally, for the gentlemen of the party. + + +HAM. + +[Illustration: HAM.] + +843. In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desires +to practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime +part. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, +and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham. To reach the +choicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be +carried quite down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. The +slices should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone. There +are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top, and then +slicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the circle; but +we think this a plan not to be recommended. A ham, when hot, is usually +sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle; when cold, it is +served in the manner shown by coloured plate P. + + +LEG OF PORK. + +[Illustration: LEG OF PORK.] + +844. This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easy +to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, clean +through the crackling, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. Sago and +onion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with this +dish,--sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed,--and the guests should be +asked if they will have either or both. A frequent plan, and we think a +good one, is now pursued, of sending sage and onion to table separately +from the joint, as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this +stuffing is agreeable. + +_Note_.--The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as +to their carving or helping. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF. + +845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be in a +measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the +parent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identified +with veal, is destined to die young,--to be, indeed, cut off in its +comparative infancy,--it may, at first sight, appear of little or no +consequence to inquire to what particular variety, or breed of the +general stock, his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, in +the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall +not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable, +but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a frame that +shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly that +every _quantum_ of food it takes shall, without drawback or +procrastination, be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, is +of very considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality of +the meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder and +butcher. + +846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM adopted in the rearing of domestic +cattle, and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary mandates of +luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in the +market, though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its +appearance is about the beginning of February. + +847. THE COW GOES WITH YOUNG FOR NINE MONTHS, and the affection and +solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness +mid intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distress +when she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with her +distended udders, is often painful to witness, and when the calf has +died, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse +to give down her milk. At such times, the breeder has adopted the +expedient of flaying the dead carcase, and, distending the skin with +hay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advantage of her +solicitude, milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue. + +848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, like the deer, hides her young in +the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only at +stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to +the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same, +circumspection returns to the community. + +849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to please the epicurean taste of vitiated +appetites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately +after birth, and any accident that forestalls that event, is considered +to enhance its value. We are happy to say, however, that in this +country, as far as England and Scotland are concerned, the taste for +very young veal has entirely gone out, and "Staggering Bob," as the poor +little animal was called in the language of the shambles, is no longer +to be met with in such a place. + +850. THE WEANING OF CALVES is a process that requires a great amount of +care and judgment; for though they are in reality not weaned till +between the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by +hand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to +suck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very +important and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his +stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same +time; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find food for the entire +family, gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of +milk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea +that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for +the weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake, +for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all the +oleaginous principles, and the azote or nitrogen, on which the vivifying +properties of that fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has this +fact proved to be, that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with +five of water, will thrive and look well; while another, treated with +unlimited skimmed milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable. + +851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce the +blundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that he +will do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge of +imbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a +bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his +throat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into the +mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large +wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending +her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his +lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes the +milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one the +whole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, that +new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some +days calved. + +852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires to +be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can be +thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are +to be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve +there, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may +be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time, +sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable +quantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to the +others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for the +butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness +of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, and +allow the animals either to suck _ad libitum_, or give them, if brought +up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can +digest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to +their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature +consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise +whatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Under +such circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions are +no longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of the +stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the muscles +become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues. + +853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country so +inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing +this poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh _white_, the +calf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was +unable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere +abolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount of +pain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all the +large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken off +to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; it +is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened and +dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul, +extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys and +sweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole +interior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that is +thought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool and +harden. + +854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to divide +the carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter; +which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut. + +[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.] + + _Hind quarter_:-- + + 1. The loin. + 2. The chump, consisting of the rump + and hock-bone. + 3. The fillet. + 4. The hock, or hind knuckle. + + _Fore quarter_:-- + + 5. The shoulder. + 6. The neck. + 7. The breast. + 8. The fore knuckle. + +855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eight +weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--loin and chump 18 lbs., +fillet 12-1/2 lbs., hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11 +lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs. +weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than +that pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and one +boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided, +as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on the +table. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +856. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1 +pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of +minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4 +eggs. + +_Mode_.--Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy, +and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the +eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a +dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may +be served in a tureen as an accompaniment. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +ROAST BREAST OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.] + +857. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; a little flour. + +_Mode_.--Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it +down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste +it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted +butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut +lemon. + +_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS. + +858. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury +herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6 +young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of +pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2 +tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 +tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, +green peas. + +_Mode_.--Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and +divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a +frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown +colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves, +onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just +sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let +the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy +as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining +ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it +over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle +these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat +balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the +meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should be +half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it. + +_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + BREEDING OF CALVES.--The forwarding of calves to maturity, + whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early + market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and + requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection + of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be + reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow + shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however, + has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as + _stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure + adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted + is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf + _entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on + the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be + suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and + butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_,--things to be + desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry + becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet, + for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk, + but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself: + this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the + young animal, is called weaning. + +VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic). + +859. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold +ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little +pepper, good gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs +into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in +layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full, +get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and +when cold, turn it out. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER. + +860. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2 +tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion, +a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and +butter No. 493. + +_Mode_.--Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first +joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the +bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a +stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the +whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and +cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they +were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use: +it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.--The age at which a calf ought to + be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the + flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due + development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which + the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend, + whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the + contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of + calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime + condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to + eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty. + +FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET. + +861. INGREDIENTS.--A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each +egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard +or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water +repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other, +until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by +the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold +water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones +come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor +into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day. +Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff +batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion; +season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard. +Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or +two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This +should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to +have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run +about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will +be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e. + +_Time_.--About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons. + + COLOUR OF VEAL.--As whiteness of flesh is considered a great + advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves, + are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and + noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the + signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal + will be white or florid. + +COLLARED CALF'S HEAD. + +862. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4 +blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper +to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard. + +_Mode_.--Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and +with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the +head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones, +which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on +the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of +ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a +seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer; +roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil +it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy +weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till +cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. to 7s. each. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + FEEDING A CALF.--The amount of milk necessary for a calf for + some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the + first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased, + according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively + on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for + the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather + is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small + paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to + acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or + twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain + time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place + supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly + are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as + adjuncts or substitutes. + +FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree). + +863. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of +the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 +onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, +thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice, forcemeat balls. + +_Mode_.--Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice +square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a +saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above +proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put +in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little +butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in +the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these +two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it +will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled +bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the +meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set, +the sauce may be poured over the meat. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + + +CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel. + +864. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than +1/2 pint of Maitre d'hotel sauce No. 466. + +_Mode_.--Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently +thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head, +and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the +meat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let it +simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + THE CALF IN AMERICA.--In America, the calf is left with the + mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once + fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1 + quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of + water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be + given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of + soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat, + and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his + manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the + quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till + the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the + best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed + out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience. + +CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +865. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples +sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 +pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter; +then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a +pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples, +and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the +lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be +ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on +the top. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree). + +866. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, +egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and +popper to taste, a small piece of butter. + +[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS.] + +_Mode_.--Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in +thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a +cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them +over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed +minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs +down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be +careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not +dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at +a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour: +by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, +keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a +little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then +pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper +and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the +cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a +few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this +dish. + +_Time_.--For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very +thick, allow more time. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown; +the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. +They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving. + + +BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree). + +867. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1 +egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder +over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an +egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and, +afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear +fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the +dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made +by recipe No. 453, in the middle. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.--When the restoration of Charles II. took + the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the + Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the + long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a + large section of society wedded to the former state of things. + The elders of this party retired from public sight, where, + unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in + seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this + school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet + detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a + novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and + mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly + met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the + 30th of January in each year,--the anniversary of Charles's + death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves' + heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an + abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the + house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell; + and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast + young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in + wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed + by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin, + marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with + great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd + custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early + part of this century it was customary for men of republican + politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January. + + +VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree). + +868. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2 +tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a +little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and +brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and +minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold +each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to +table with melted butter or a good gravy. + + +_Time_.--From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE. + +(_Excellent_.) + +869. INGREDIENTS.--2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12 +young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades +of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a +few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings +into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a +nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice, +herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew +gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat, +take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and +ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put them +with the veal, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when these +are omitted. + + +SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +870. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter, +flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 +tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced +lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom +ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger +than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in +butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it +in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and +mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy +with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give +one boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +871. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of +grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a +little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1 +teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 +teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3 +tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hack +them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and +salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in +the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pour +it over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon, +rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at +hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk. + +_Time_.--About 5 or 7 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from May to October. + + COOKING COLLOPS.--Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his + "Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of + famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and + plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the + following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the + character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was + giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral + qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to + which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean + tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good + collops?" + +ROAST FILLET OF VEAL. + +872. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter. + +_Mode_.--Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out +the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a +nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as +there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince +if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well +with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and +baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the +fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a +rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by +a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve +with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut +lemon to table with roast veal. + +[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.] + +_Time_.--A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +STEWED FILLET OF VEAL. + +873. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening +of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2 +tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of +sherry. + +_Mode_.--If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to +stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies. +Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and +skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to +prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak +stock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly veal +is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it with +lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour it +over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silver +one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon. + +_Time_.--A. fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' very gentle +stewing. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +THE GOLDEN CALF.--We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the +lengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to +make them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using his +delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, and +appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and, +telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of +their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude +fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold, +or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose +the former,--knowing the size of the image made from such trifling +articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled the +Egyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequence +than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought away +more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were +deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one, +out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall, +was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptian +trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy +bull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the +sun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality, +industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing so +familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under a +well-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of those +virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea +is full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to +the custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6. + + +FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree). + +874. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3 +lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 +blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste, +a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107. + +[Illustration: FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.] + +_Mode_.--The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it +will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not +thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one +stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau +with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife +make two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the +seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a red +colour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with the +herbs and spices, in the _middle_ of a stewpan, with a few slices of +bacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre for +the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over +it a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon, +&c., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; then +put it over a slow and equal fire, and let it _simmer very_ gently for +about 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it +frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into +a brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when +it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from +the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the +fricandeau, and serve with a puree of whatever vegetable happens to be +in season--spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (_More economical_.) + +875. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs.), +lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of +mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat +bacon. + +_Mode_.--Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a +sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a little +water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stew +about 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the +preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the +fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel, +spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish. + +_Time_.--3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole; +consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The +best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well. + + +BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on). + +876. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large +bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 +tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 +grains of cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the side +of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and +with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off +easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean, +take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak +for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a few +minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, into +which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually to +boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw it +up. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done, +boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, and +add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. +Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into +about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice and +cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head, +cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains +round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little +minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen of +parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as an +accompaniment. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin). + +877. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls +of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to +taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.] + +[Illustration: HALF A CALF'S HEAD.] + +_Mode_.--After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains +removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also into +warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the head +into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it +boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises, +and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them, +and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and +lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue, +and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready some +parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send to +table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, are +indispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped with +hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Bechamel or white sauce. + +_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours. + +_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it +makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c. +Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a +more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same +manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe. + + +HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery). + +878. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of +the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 +carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and white +pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2 +tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 +tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings +into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was +boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of +lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour, +or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean +stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring +of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season +with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it +_gradually_ warm through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_ +minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon +rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree). + +879. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, a +few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and bread +crumbs, gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay on +each a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat, +made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all a +little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2 +inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry +them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, and +shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire; +put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add +1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt, +pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over the +collops. + +_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE. + +880. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, +including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour, +1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and +salt to taste, 1/4 pint water. + +_Mode_.--Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into +slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a +good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, +which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in +the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, +simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver. + +_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. + +881. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to +taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, +1/4 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon +as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish +before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon, +after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very +little flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and +when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each. +Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a +little flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it +in the _middle_ of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut +lemon, or forcemeat balls. + +_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree). + +882. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of +parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, brown +gravy. + +_Mode_.--Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau; +put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme, +bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this +pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the +vinegar, &c.; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce +piquante, and send it to table very hot. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been +added a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should +be larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire. +Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it. + + +FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +883. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Bechamel sauce No. +367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will +answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving +a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there should +be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely the +meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to +flavour, and stir to it sufficient Bechamel to make it of a proper +consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care to +baste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place where +the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop a +little clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for +1/4 hour to brown, and pour Bechamel round the sides of the dish. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL. + +884. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1 +onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savoury +herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few +young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato +sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season +with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a little +butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (which +should be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and +carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer very +gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices of +meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter +rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put back +the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When in +season, a few green peas, _boiled separately_, and added to this dish at +the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. + + +STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE. + +885. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1 +teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice. + +[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.] + +_Mode_.--Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that +it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as +cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break the +shank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan with +sufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put in +the salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmered +gently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the +whole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over +it the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and +butter to table with it. + +_Time_.--A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' gentle stewing. + +_Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found +good; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to +table smothered in parsley and butter. + + +ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.] + +886. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; melted butter. + +_Mode_.--Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makes +the joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to a +bright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for a +time to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time before +serving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire a +nice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some melted +butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its +contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices +of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon, +ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek. + +_Time_.--A large loin, 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9-1/2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the +veal is dished. + + +LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +887. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, +rather more than 1/2 pint of Bechamel or white sauce. + +_Mode_.--A loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken +off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside, +mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficient +Bechamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in buttered +paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish the +mince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of the +Bechamel. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube. + +888. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a +few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2 +teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6 +green onions. + +_Mode_.--Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone; +fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it in +a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a few +slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock or +water; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours, +shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions; +reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with which +glaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +MINCED VEAL, with Bechamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery). + +(_Very Good_.) + +889. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Bechamel +sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls. + +_Mode_.--Cut--but do not _chop_--a few slices of cold roast veal as +finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed +after being minced. Make the above proportion of Bechamel, by recipe No. +367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole gradually +warm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnish +with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread. + +_Time_.--To simmer 1 minute. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +MINCED VEAL. + +(_More Economical_.) + +890. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal, +rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced +lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 +or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and +flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or +milk. + +_Mode_.--Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge +them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, and +a few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onion +cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer +these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a +little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on the +fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by _cutting_, +and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed through +gradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the point +of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and +slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added. +If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little very +finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy. + +_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.--A singular symbolical + ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed + a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine + power, or what was called the _Elohim_,--the Almighty + intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,--was looked upon + much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently + was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion + and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or + the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or + Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on + themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to + the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it + was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when, + the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of + parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs + on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were + many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words + of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the + different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each + portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To + avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by + Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a + solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He + released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of + their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time, + and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and + privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews + had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful + army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance, + took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and + still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat + of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with + their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused + to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of + their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the + horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv. + 15-17. + +MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI. + +(_A pretty side or corner dish_.) + +891. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1 +tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of +grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs +to bind, a small piece of butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the +brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of +ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season +highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and +mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind +the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the +macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of +the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked; +mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put +a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out +carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the +meat. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in +a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch +in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and +red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the +foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould. + + +MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +892. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon, +1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt, +pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1 +egg. + +_Mode_.--Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and +outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the +lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients +are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the +mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it +out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A +sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +BRAISED NECK OF VEAL. + +893. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.), +bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated +nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not +obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and +flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley, +salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan +with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery; +and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or +until it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over the +fire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the veal +in this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till +of a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan as +much gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded +mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and +serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + BIRTH OF CALVES.--The cow seldom produces more than a single + calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French + newspaper, however,--the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences,"--gave + a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced + nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three + successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second + year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two + calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the + first birth, all were suckled by the mother. + +ROAST NECK OF VEAL. + +894. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls. + +_Mode_.--Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it with +flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dish +it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with fried +forcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiled +or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley and +butter. + +_Time_.--About 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery). + +895. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thin +slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls +of cream, puff-crust. + +_Mode_.--Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin +slices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No. +417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll them +tightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream, +cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie be +very large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3 +inches in length, and about 3 inches round. + +_Time_.--Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery). + +896. INGREDIENTS.--Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg +boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1 +teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste. + +_Mode_.--Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to +two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of +pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravy +and cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it into +round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the +edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also +baked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with the +yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety, +oysters may be substituted for the ham. + +_Time_.--15 minutes to fry the patties. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL PIE. + +897. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon +or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury +herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with +pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savoury +herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed at +the top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressed +bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little +water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brush +it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for +about 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by +removing the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added. + +_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + A VERY VEAL DINNER.--At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a + Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were + removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet + of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and + calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his + guests, volunteered an explanation.--"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf; + when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the + tither." + +VEAL AND HAM PIE. + +898. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2 +tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated +nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of +lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of +water, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust. + +_Mode_.--Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of them +at the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs, +spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices; +cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in this +manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at the +top. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2 +pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it over +with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2 +hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out of +the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint of +strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, it +may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding a +few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very good +without any of the last-named additions. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. _Average +cost_, 3s. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to +October. + + +POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast). + +899. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of veal allow 1/4 lb. of ham, cayenne +and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and +pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter in +the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press it +into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a cool +place, it will remain good some days. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + NAMES OF CALVES, &c.--During the time the young male calf is + suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when + turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on + the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old + bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a + three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which + latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked, + that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for + neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as + the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but + while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she + is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or + twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four + years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms, + may exist in different districts. + +RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +900. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint +of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1 +blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 +tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat +balls. + +_Mode_.--Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into +nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and fry +a light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this), +thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour; +season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and +lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeat +balls and fried rashers of bacon. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + +_Note_.--The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as +peas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of +green gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little +with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy. + + +VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery). + +901. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham +or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of minced +savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg, +cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add the +parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg; +form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread +crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the +dish with fried parsley. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +902. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and bread +crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417. + +_Mode_.--Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rub +them over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of +veal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat +thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry +them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed. + +903. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, +forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a +faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening of +butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the +blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to +pierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out. +Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by +recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into a +stew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour in +just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew _very gently_ for +about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by +thrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it is +sufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and +flour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots +may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when in +season, green peas should always be served with this dish. + +_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October. + + THE FATTENING OF CALVES.--The fattening of calves for the market + is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and + numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from + the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared + for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk + is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves + require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this, + they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too + cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to + exclude the light,--at all events to a great degree, and to put + within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of + licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often + attain a very large size; viz., 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the + offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any + deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This + mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very + expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into + consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf, + originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the + same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one + cow is sufficient,--indeed half that quantity is enough for the + first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume + the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then + it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food. + Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6 + weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of + the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of + calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the + end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding + one to a useless degree of corpulency. + +VEAL SAUSAGES. + +904. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every +lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the +above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper +and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry +a nice brown. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes. + +905. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young +carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a +bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of +mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4 +hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpan +with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over +it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours. +Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fat +from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, and +mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of green +peas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, and +serve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat, +when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead of +being roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found +extremely savoury and good. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August. + + +BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree). + +906. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3 +slices of toast, brown gravy. + +[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.] + +_Mode_.--Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to +draw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain for +rather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow +them to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take them +up, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dip +them in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them a +little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated +oven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast; +place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, a +good brown gravy. + +_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s. _Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August. + + +FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree). + +907. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of +butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maitre +d'hotel sauce No. 466. + +_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them +for 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, season +with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the above +proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be in +about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maitre d'hotel sauce, +made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cut +lemon. + +_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10 +minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s., according to the season. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August. + +_Note_.--The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices of +sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be +substituted for the _maitre d'hotel_ sauce. This is a very simple method +of dressing them. + + +STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree). + +908. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107, +thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 +tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and +salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil them +for 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a few +minutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gently +for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with a +little butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients, +allow the sauce to get quite _hot_, but _not boil_, and pour it over the +sweetbreads. + +_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather more +than 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 5s., according to the season. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August. + +_Note_.--A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the +sweetbreads, will be found an improvement. + + SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.--Veal, like all other meats, has its + season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to + be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from + the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In + purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be + considered, the colour being especially of the utmost + consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of + excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the + months of plenty. + +STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree). + +909. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1 +faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, +2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel. + +_Mode_.--The _tendrons_ or gristles, which are found round the front of +a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entree, and when +well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles from +the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint for +roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No. +107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and +lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should be +stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drain +them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze the +meat. Dish the _tendrons_ in a circle, with croutons fried of a nice +colour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a puree of green +peas or tomatoes, in the middle. + +_Time_.--4 hours. _Sufficient_ for one entree. + +_Seasonable_.--With peas, from June to August. + + COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.--It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley, + Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of + vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that + destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The + experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and + published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject + to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those + persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle, + escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to + farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of + experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with. + +TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree). + +910. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1 +faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 +onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of +chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, +the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. + +_Mode_.--After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew them +for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace, +cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift +them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them between +two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them into +slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a +pale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2 +tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, the +sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. +Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the _point +of boiling_, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in the +middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways,--with sauce a +l'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a puree, +they should always be glazed. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_.--Usually bought with breast of +veal. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree). + +911. INGREDIENTS.--Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiled +one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of +sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons +(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or +forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croutons. + +_Mode_.--Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entree, and if +there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it will +answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender, +remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock into +a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry the +mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boil +this quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of the +hard-boiled eggs _whole_, the whites cut in small pieces, and the +gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No. +422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the other +ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, _without boiling_. +Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as +possible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish and +croutons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served +in a tureen. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.--A great authority in his native + Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing, + is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending + itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the + French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be + called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who + has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the + skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It + is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most + inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _a la + poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c.; _les cervelles_, served in + the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en + fricandeau_, _piques en fin_,--all these offer most satisfactory + entrees, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the + gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites. + We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver, + or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour + of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with + calf's liver _a la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient + dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and + eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and + contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's + ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the + advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _a la + poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the + addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to + the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute + alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the + _fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_, + and the _rate_), although not a very recherche dish, lends + itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under + various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even + awaken our appetite."--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody + of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him + as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer. + + +VEAL CARVING. + + +BREAST OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.] + +912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a +fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast +of veal consists of two parts,--the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. +These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife +in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, the +rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and the +brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The +carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the +brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as +it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive a +piece. + +CALF'S HEAD. + +[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.] + +913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is +put before a carver for the first time; there is not much real +difficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively +examined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its +bumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down +to the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each +of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat +sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh +round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at +the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone +being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate, +which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate +dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should +be asked to take some of these. + + +FILLET OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.] + +914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef. +Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; and +the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be _evenly_ carved. +Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small +portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the +host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious +brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished. + + +KNUCKLE OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.] + +915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficiently +indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving +this dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the +knuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2. + + +LOIN OF VEAL. + +[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.] + +916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a +loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher +be negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there is +nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to +be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place +where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When the +jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying +the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest should +be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, and +are considered great delicacies. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XX. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS. + + "Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean, + Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace; + In plumage delicate and beautiful; + Thick without burthen, close as fishes' scales, + Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze." + +_The Pelican Island_. + +917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are founded principally on their habits of +life, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especially +their bills, bear to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, there are five +orders, each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the +globe; so that the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water, +has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants. These are respectively +designated as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS; +and, in contemplating their variety, lightness, beauty, and wonderful +adaptation to the regions they severally inhabit, and the functions they +are destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation, our hearts are +lifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity, power, and wisdom +of HIM who has, in producing them, so strikingly "manifested His +handiwork." Not only these, however, but all classes of animals, have +their peculiar ends to fulfil; and, in order that this may be +effectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as will +enable them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that are +formed to tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous; +and, whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or are +permitted to range the forest or the field, they still retain, in a high +degree, the energies with which they were originally endowed. Birds, on +the contrary, are generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly, +wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air, and +thus elude the force which, by nature, they are unable to resist. +Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre of +the earth, birds, when raised in the atmosphere, glide through it with +the greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are in their +natural element, and can vary their course with the greatest +promptitude--can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and can +light on any spot with the most perfect exactness, and without the +slightest injury to themselves. + +918. THE MECHANISM WHICH ENABLES BIRDS to wing their course through the +air, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with +feathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with which +quadrupeds are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlap +each other, like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. They +are also arranged from the fore-part backwards; by which the animals are +enabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air. Their +bones are tubular or hollow, and extremely light compared with those of +terrestrial animals. This greatly facilitates their rising from the +earth, whilst their heads, being comparatively small, their bills shaped +like a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below, and round above,--all +these present a union of conditions, favourable, in the last degree, to +cutting their way through the aerial element to which they are +considered as more peculiarly to belong. With all these conditions, +however, birds could not fly without wings. These, therefore, are the +instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion, and are +constructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion when +struck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slight +hollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost two +planes. In order that the downward action may be accomplished to the +necessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been made +exceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have +been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body. +Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a +leap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with great +force. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, being +turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the +force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the +bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke +being completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being contracted and +having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the +resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makes a +second stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it +forward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken +in the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or +the left, it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to +the proper side. In the motions of the animal, too, the tail takes a +prominent part, and acts like the rudder of a ship, except that, instead +of sideways, it moves upwards and downwards. If the bird wishes to rise, +it raises its tail; and if to fall, it depresses it; and, whilst in a +horizontal position, it keeps it steady. There are few who have not +observed a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flight +without any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by the +bird having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings being +parallel to the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from the +atmosphere. If it begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward by +means of its tail, till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when +it must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings. On alighting, a +bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, as a ship, in +tacking round, backs her sails, in order that they may meet with all the +resistance possible. + +919. IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE EYES of birds, there is a peculiarity +necessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of their +lives among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence of +their eyes from external injuries, as well as from the effects of the +light, when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun, with a +nictating or winking membrane, which can, at pleasure, be drawn over the +whole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor wholly +pellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that the +eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. "In birds," says a writer +on this subject, "we find that the sight is much more piercing, +extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye is +much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head, than in any of these. +This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding +utility: it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence. +Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would +be in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking against +various objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead of +being an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrained +by the danger resulting from it. Indeed we may consider the velocity +with which an animal moves, as a sure indication of the perfection of +its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatly +limited; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark +sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man +or a dog could perceive it." + +920. AMONGST THE MANY PECULIARITIES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BIRDS, not +the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. This +is effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body, +and adhere to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion, +force the air through the true lungs, which are very small, and placed +in the uppermost part of the chest, and closely braced down to the back +and ribs. The lungs, which are never expanded by air, are destined to +the sole purpose of oxidizing the blood. In the experiments made by Mr. +John Hunter, to discover the use of this general diffusion of air +through the bodies of birds, he found that it prevents their respiration +from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motion +through a resisting medium. It is well known that, in proportion to +celerity of motion, the air becomes resistive; and were it possible for +a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not provided +with an internal construction similar to that of birds, the resistance +of the air would soon suffocate him. + +921. BIRDS ARE DISTRIBUTED OVER EVERY PART OF THE GLOBE, being found in +the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are +restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed. +At certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, and +migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of +life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds of +Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from the +island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the more +congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. The causes +assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are, either a deficiency of +food, or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment +of their young. Their migrations are generally performed in large +companies, and, in the day, they follow a leader, which is occasionally +changed. During the night, many of the tribes send forth a continual +cry, to keep themselves together; although one would think that the +noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that +purpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed three +thousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in the +Scriptures, that "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought +quails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day's +journey round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth." + +922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS were not a recommendation to their being +universally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song would +endear them to mankind. It appears, however, from accurate observations +founded upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds of +birds are altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any more +than language is to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been +compared to the endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do not +seem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song; but, as the +bird grows older and becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to be +aiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song. Whilst the +scholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes, when he is once sure of +a passage, he usually raises his tone, but drops it again when he finds +himself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken. "Many +well-authenticated facts," says an ingenious writer, "seem decisively to +prove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like mankind, the +language of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth, +will be their language in after-life." It would appear, however, +somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, they adhere so steadily to +the song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others are +to be heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paid +by the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only, +generally disregarding the notes of all the rest. Persons; however, who +have an accurate ear, and who have given their attention to the songs of +birds, can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed with +those of another species; but this is in general so trifling, that it +can hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincial +dialects. + +923. IN REFERENCE TO THE FOOD OF BIRDS, we find that it varies, as it +does in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogether +carnivorous; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on +fish; others, again, on insects and worms; and others on grain and +fruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous +tribes, in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion, +would, were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded on +experiment, appear to exceed all credibility. Tin tubes, full of grain, +have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in twenty-four hours +have been found broken, compressed, and distorted into every shape. +Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges, have been +fixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to a +turkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight hours. After that time +the stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. The +twelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remained +perfectly sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that the +stones, so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, are +highly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain +and other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones, +themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful action +of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and, no doubt, contribute very +greatly to the health, as well as to the nourishment of the animals. + +924. ALL BIRDS BEING OVIPAROUS, the eggs which they produce after the +process of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, in +the various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as in +point of number. They contain the elements of the future young, for the +perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed +at the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposed +that from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confined +air, its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor, and, at the same +time, its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction. By this +means, pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg, +which, in some inscrutable way, gradually promote the formation and +growth of the young, till the time comes for its escaping from the +shell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation, +for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Reaumur, the French +naturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores +with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet. + +925. BIRDS HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have some place to put +them; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing +art. As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill, +niceness, and propriety, that would seem even to mock the imitative +talents of man, however greatly these are marked by his own high +intelligence and ingenuity. + + "Each circumstance + Most artfully contrived to favour warmth. + Here read the reason of the vaulted roof; + How Providence compensates, ever kind, + The enormous disproportion that subsists + Between the mother and the numerous brood + Which her small bulk must quicken into life." + +In building their nests, the male and female generally assist each +other, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as +great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches; +so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in +search of it. This art of nidification is one of the most wonderful +contrivances which the wide field of Nature can show, and which, of +itself, ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief, that +they and every other part of the creation, are constantly under the +protecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign dispensations +seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited. + +[Illustration] + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + +CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entree). + +926. INGREDIENTS.--2 chickens; seasoning to taste of salt, white pepper, +and cayenne; 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread crumbs, clarified +butter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of +mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and flour, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens; cut the meat +into neat pieces after having skinned it, and season the cutlets with +pepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. Put the bones, trimmings, &c., +into a stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots, onions, and +lemon-peel in the above proportion; stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, and +strain the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and +1 egg well beaten; stir it over the fire, and bring it to the +simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. In the mean time, egg and +bread-crumb the cutlets, and give them a few drops of clarified butter; +fry them a delicate brown, occasionally turning them; arrange them +pyramidically on the dish, and pour over them the sauce. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the cutlets. _Average cost_, 2s. each. + +_Sufficient_ for an entree. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + + FOWLS AS FOOD.--Brillat Savarin, pre-eminent in gastronomic + taste, says that he believes the whole gallinaceous family was + made to enrich our larders and furnish our tables; for, from the + quail to the turkey, he avers their flesh is a light aliment, + full of flavour, and fitted equally well for the invalid as for + the man of robust health. The fine flavour, however, which + Nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of + poultry, man has not been satisfied with, and has used many + means--such as keeping them in solitude and darkness, and + forcing them to eat--to give them an unnatural state of fatness + or fat. This fat, thus artificially produced, is doubtless + delicious, and the taste and succulence of the boiled and + roasted bird draw forth the praise of the guests around the + table. Well-fattened and tender, a fowl is to the cook what the + canvas is to the painter; for do we not see it served boiled, + roasted, fried, fricasseed, hashed, hot, cold, whole, + dismembered, boned, broiled, stuffed, on dishes, and in + pies,--always handy and ever acceptable? + + THE COMMON OR DOMESTIC FOWL.--From time immemorial, the common + or domestic fowl has been domesticated in England, and is + supposed to be originally the offspring of some wild species + which abound in the forests of India. It is divided into a + variety of breeds, but the most esteemed are, the Poland or + Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the Game Fowl, and the Malay or + Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, is one of the most + delicate of the varieties; and at Dorking, in Surrey, the breed + is brought to great perfection. Till they are four months old, + the term chicken is applied to the young female; after that age + they are called pullets, till they begin to lay, when they are + called hens. The English counties most productive in poultry are + Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk, Herts, Devon, and Somerset. + +FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +927. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, fried +bread, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 +teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel; salt, cayenne, and mace to +taste. For sauce,--1 oz. of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few slices of +carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 blade of +pounded mace, 6 peppercorns, 1/4 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible; take a +corresponding number of sippets about the same size, all cut one shape; +fry them a pale brown, put them before the fire, then dip the cutlets +into clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, cover with bread +crumbs seasoned in the above proportion, with lemon-peel, mace, salt, +and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on one of the +sippets, pile them high in the dish, and serve with the following sauce, +which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put the butter into a +stewpan, add the shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; fry for +10 minutes or rather longer; pour in 1/2 pint of good gravy, made of the +chicken bones, stew gently for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to make the gravy. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the chicken, 9d. + +_Seasonable_ from April to July. + + EGGS FOR HATCHING.--Eggs intended for hatching should be removed + as soon as laid, and placed in bran in a dry, cool place. Choose + those that are near of a size; and, as a rule, avoid those that + are equally thick at both ends,--such, probably, contain a + double yolk, and will come to no good. Eggs intended for + hatching should never be stored longer than a month, as much + less the better. Nine eggs may be placed under a Bantam hen, and + as many as fifteen under a Dorking. The odd number is considered + preferable, as more easily packed. It will be as well to mark + the eggs you give the hen to sit on, so that you may know if she + lays any more: if she does, you must remove them; for, if + hatched at all, they would be too late for the brood. If during + incubation an egg should be broken, remove it, and take out the + remainder, and cleanse them in luke-warm water, or it is + probable the sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg + will make the others cling to the hen's feathers; and they, too, + may be fractured. + + HENS SITTING.--Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting; + they will make a great fuss, and keep pining for the nest, and, + when they are permitted to take to it, they will sit just long + enough to addle the eggs, and then they're off again. The safest + way to guard against such annoyance, is to supply the hen with + some hard-boiled eggs; if she sits on them a reasonable time, + and seems steadily inclined, like a good matron, you may then + give her proper eggs, and let her set about the business in + earnest. + +CHICKEN OR FOWL PATTIES. + +928. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast chicken or fowl; to every +1/4 lb. of meat allow 2 oz. of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 +tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; +cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 +oz. of butter rolled in flour; puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl, after +removing all the skin; weigh it, and to every 1/4 lb. of meat allow the +above proportion of minced ham. Put these into a stewpan with the +remaining ingredients, stir over the fire for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, +taking care that the mixture does not burn. Roll out some puff paste +about 1/4 inch in thickness; line the patty-pans with this, put upon +each a small piece of bread, and cover with another layer of paste; +brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a brisk oven for about +1/4 hour. When done, cut a round piece out of the top, and, with a small +spoon, take out the bread (be particular in not breaking the outside +border of the crust), and fill the patties with the mixture. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to prepare the meat; not quite 1/4 hour to bake the +crust. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + HATCHING.--Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to + break away from its prison; for the white of the egg will + occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners' + clue, when the poor chick is in a terrible fix. An able writer + says, "Assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely, + and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick + being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an + addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are + always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at + the big end of the egg, and a section of about one-third of the + length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, + provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to + the membrane which lines the shell. Between the body of the + chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous + fluid, the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of + incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When this happens, + the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain + confined, and must perish, if not released." + + The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a + difficulty in releasing themselves from the shell, is to take + the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen + rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they + are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and + separated from the feathers. The chick, then, being returned to + the nest, will extricate itself,--a mode generally to be + observed, since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal. + Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary; and + separating with the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane + from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned + above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors + may be useful, and when there is much resistance, as also + apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the + gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small + pieces. The signs of a need of assistance are the egg being + partly pecked and chipped, and the cluck discontinuing its + efforts for five of six hours. Weakness from cold may disable + the chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell, + which must then be artificially performed with a circular + fracture, such as is made by the bird itself. + +CHICKEN OR FOWL PIE. + +929. INGREDIENTS.--2 small fowls or 1 large one, white pepper and salt +to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded +mace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 +pint of water, puff crust. + +_Mode_.--Skin and cut up the fowls into joints, and put the neck, leg, +and backbones in a stewpan, with a little water, an onion, a bunch of +savoury herbs, and a blade of mace; let these stew for about an hour, +and, when done, strain off the liquor: this is for gravy. Put a layer of +fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of ham, then one of +forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings; between the layers put a +seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Proceed in this +manner until the dish is full, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water; +border the edge of the dish with puff crust, put on the cover, ornament +the top, and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk of an egg. Bake from +1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour, should the pie be very large, and, when done, pour +in, at the top, the gravy made from the bones. If to be eaten cold, and +wished particularly nice, the joints of the fowls should be boned, and +placed in the dish with alternate layers of forcemeat; sausage-meat may +also be substituted for the forcemeat, and is now very much used. When +the chickens are boned, and mixed with sausage-meat, the pie will take +about 2 hours to bake. It should be covered with a piece of paper when +about half-done, to prevent the paste from being dried up or scorched. + +_Time_.--For a pie with unboned meat, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; with boned +meat and sausage or forcemeat, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, with 2 fowls, 6s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE YOUNG CHICKS.--The chicks that are hatched first should be + taken from underneath the hen, lest she might think her task at + an end, and leave the remaining eggs to spoil. As soon as the + young birds are taken from the mother, they must be placed in a + basket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay, and stood in the + sunlight if it be summer time, or by the fire if the weather be + cold. It is a common practice to cram young chicks with food as + soon as they are born. This is quite unnecessary. They will, so + long as they are kept warm, come to no harm if they take no food + for twenty-four hours following their birth. Should the whole of + the brood not be hatched by that time, those that are born may + be fed with bread soaked in milk, and the yolk of a hard-boiled + egg. + +POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish). + +930. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast chicken; to every lb. of +meat allow 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 +teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/4 small nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl; when it is +freed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and, to every lb. of meat, allow +the above proportion of butter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meat +into small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in the +spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth +paste. Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover it with clarified +butter, about 1/4 inch in thickness, and, if to be kept for some time, +tie over a bladder: 2 or 3 slices of ham, minced and pounded with the +above ingredients, will be found an improvement. It should be kept in a +dry place. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS.--When all the chicks are + hatched, they should be placed along with the mother under a + coop in a warm dry spot. If two hens happen to have their broods + at the same time, their respective chicks should be carefully + kept separate; as, if they get mixed, and so go under the wrong + coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy those who have + mistaken their dwelling. After being kept snug beneath the coop + for a week (the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall), + the chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest + part of the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked + bread and chopped egg, instead of which grits or boiled barley + should be given; in 8 or 10 days their stomachs will be strong + enough to receive bruised barley, and at the end of 3 weeks, if + your chicks be healthy, they will be able to take care of + themselves. It will be well, however, to keep your eye on them a + week or so longer, as the elder chickens may drive them from + their food. Great care should be taken that the very young + chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, as this + is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease. While under + the coop with their mother, a shallow pan or plate of water + should be supplied to the chicks, as in a deeper vessel they are + liable to drench themselves and take cold, or possibly to get + drowned. + +CHICKEN OR FOWL SALAD. + +931. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled chicken, 2 +lettuces, a little endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beetroot, +salad-dressing No. 506. + +_Mode_.--Trim neatly the remains of the chicken; wash, dry, and slice +the lettuces, and place in the middle of a dish; put the pieces of fowl +on the top, and pour the salad-dressing over them. Garnish the edge of +the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, sliced cucumber, and +boiled beetroot cut in slices. Instead of cutting the eggs in rings, the +yolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve, and the whites chopped very +finely, and arranged on the salad in small bunches, yellow and white +alternately. This should not be made long before it is wanted for table. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS.--It has been the opinion of the + medical faculty of all ages and all countries, that the flesh of + the young chicken is the must delicate and easy to digest of all + animal food. It is less alkalescent than the flesh of any other + animal, and its entire freedom from any irritating quality + renders it a fit dish for the ailing, or those whose stomachs + are naturally weak. In no animal, however, does age work such a + change, in regard to the quality of its flesh, as it does in + domestic fowls. In their infancy, cocks and hens are equally + tender and toothsome; but as time overtakes them it is the cock + whose flesh toughens first. A year-old cock, indeed, is fit for + little else than to be converted into soup, while a hen at the + same age, although sufficiently substantial, is not callous to + the insinuations of a carving-knife. As regards capons, however, + the rule respecting age does not hold good. There is scarcely to + be found a more delicious animal than a well-fed, well-dressed + capon. Age does not dry up his juices; indeed, like wine, he + seems but to mellow. At three years old, even, he is as tender + as a chick, with the additional advantage of his proper chicken + flavour being fully developed. The above remarks, however, + concerning the capon, only apply to such as are _naturally_ fed, + and not crammed. The latter process may produce a + handsome-looking bird, and it may weigh enough to satisfy the + whim or avarice of its stuffer; but, when before the fire, it + will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected, + and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears. You will never + find heart enough to place such a grief-worn guest at the head + of your table. It should be borne in mind as a rule, that + small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the + contrary sort in delicacy of colour, flavour, and fineness of + flesh. + +HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Cookery). + +932. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, rather more than 1 +pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening of +butter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced +lemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 glass of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Cut the duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings into a +stewpan; slice and fry the onion in a little butter; add these to the +trimmings, pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water, and stew +gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and flour, +season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; boil it +up and skim well; lay in the pieces of duck, and let them get thoroughly +hot through by the side of the fire, but do not allow them to boil: they +should soak in the gravy for about 1/2 hour. Garnish with sippets of +toasted bread. The hash may be made richer by using a stronger and more +highly-flavoured gravy; a little spice or pounded mace may also be +added, when their flavour is liked. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from May to August. + + THE DUCK.--This bird belongs to the order of _Natatores_, or + Swimmers; the most familiar tribes of which are ducks, swans, + geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guillemots, gulls, and + terns. They mostly live in the water, feeding on fish, worms, + and aquatic plants. They are generally polygamous, and make + their nests among reeds, or in moist places. The flesh of many + of the species is eatable, but that of some is extremely rank + and oily. The duck is a native of Britain, but is found on the + margins of most of the European lakes. It is excessively greedy, + and by no means a nice feeder. It requires a mixture of + vegetable and animal food; but aquatic insects, corn, and + vegetables, are its proper food. Its flesh, however, is savoury, + being not so gross as that of the goose, and of easier + digestion. In the green-pea season it is usually found on an + English table; but, according to Ude, "November is its proper + season, when it is plump and fat." + +TO RAGOUT A DUCK WHOLE. + +933. INGREDIENTS.--1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good beef +gravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme, +thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--After having emptied and singed the duck, season it inside with +pepper and salt, and truss it. Roast it before a clear fire for about 20 +minutes, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into a stewpan +with sufficient well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry the +onions, and add these, with the sage-leaves and lemon thyme, both of +which should be finely minced, to the stock. Simmer gently until the +duck is tender; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with a little butter +and flour; boil it up, pour over the duck, and serve. When in season, +about, 1-1/2 pint of young green peas, boiled separately, and put in the +ragout, very much improve this dish. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it. + +_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from April to August. + +[Illustration: BUENOS AYRES DUCKS.] + + THE BUENOS AYRES DUCK.--The Buenos Ayres duck is of East-Indian + birth, and is chiefly valuable as an ornament; for we suppose + one would as soon think of picking a Chinese teal for luncheon, + or a gold fish for breakfast, as to consign the handsome Buenos + Ayres to the spit. The prevailing colour of this bird is black, + with a metallic lustre, and a gleaming of blue steel about its + breast and wings. + + VARIETIES OF DUCKS.--Naturalists count nearly a hundred + different species of ducks; and there is no doubt that the + intending keeper of these harmless and profitable birds may + easily take his choice from amongst twenty different sorts. + There is, however, so little difference in the various members + of the family, either as regards hardiness, laying, or hatching, + that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his + taste without danger of making a bad bargain. In connection with + their value for table, light-coloured ducks are always of milder + flavour than those that are dark-coloured, the white Aylesbury's + being general favourites. Ducks reared exclusively on vegetable + diet will have a whiter and more delicate flesh than those + allowed to feed on animal offal; while the flesh of birds + fattened on the latter food, will be firmer than that of those + which have only partaken of food of a vegetable nature. + +ROAST DUCKS. + +934. INGREDIENTS.--A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing No. 504; a +little flour. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose ducks with plump bellies, and with +thick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet on, which +should be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned up close to +the legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg, after having +drawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump up the breast, +passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the heads and necks, +and the pinions at the first joint; bring these close to the sides, +twist the feet round, and truss them at the back of the bird. After the +duck is stuffed, both ends should be secured with string, so as to keep +in the seasoning. + +[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.] + +_Mode_.--To insure ducks being tender, never dress them the same day +they are killed; and if the weather permits, they should hang a day or +two. Make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck, and +leave the other unseasoned, as the flavour is not liked by everybody. +Put them down to a brisk clear fire, and keep them well basted the whole +of the time they are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge them +lightly with flour, to make them froth and look plump; and when the +steam draws towards the fire, send them to table hot and quickly, with a +good brown gravy poured _round_, but not _over_ the ducks, and a little +of the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should invariably +accompany this dish. + +_Time_.--Full-grown ducks from 3/4 to 1 hour; ducklings from 25 to 35 +minutes. + +_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--A. couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November to +February. + +_Note_.--Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, and +served with the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, serve +apple sauce. + +[Illustration: ROUEN DUCKS.] + + THE ROUEN DUCK.--The Rouen, or Rhone duck, is a large and + handsome variety, of French extraction. The plumage of the Rouen + duck is somewhat sombre; its flesh is also much darker, and, + though of higher flavour, not near so delicate as that of our + own Aylesbury. It is with this latter breed that the Rouen duck + is generally mated; and the result is said to be increase of + size and strength. In Normandy and Brittany these ducks, as well + as other sorts, greatly abound; and the "duck-liver _pates_" are + there almost as popular as the _pate de foie gras_ of Strasburg. + In order to bring the livers of the wretched duck to the + fashionable and unnatural size, the same diabolical cruelty is + resorted to as in the case of the Strasburg goose. The poor + birds are _nailed_ by the feet to a board placed close to a + fire, and, in that position, plentifully supplied with food and + water. In a few days, the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow, + while the liver has grown monstrously. We would rather abstain + from the acquaintance of a man who ate _pate de foie gras_, + knowing its component parts. + + DUCK'S EGGS.--The ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a + tendency to curve upwards, are better layers than those whose + beaks do not thus point, is, we need hardly say, simply absurd: + all ducks are good layers, if they are carefully fed and tended. + Ducks generally lay at night, or early in the morning. While + they are in perfect health, they will do this; and one of the + surest signs of indisposition, among birds of this class, is + irregularity in laying. The eggs laid will approach nearly the + colour of the layer,--light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, + and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs; dark-coloured birds laying + the largest eggs. One time of day the notion was prevalent that + a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own; and although this + is not true, it will be, nevertheless, as well to match the + duck's own eggs as closely as possible; for we have known + instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and + destroyed eggs differing from her own in size and colour. + + DUCKS.--The Mallard, or Wild Duck, from which is derived the + domestic species, is prevalent throughout Europe, Asia, and + America. The mallard's most remarkable characteristic is one + which sets at defiance the speculations of the most profound + ornithologist. The female bird is extremely plain, but the + male's plumage is a splendour of greens and browns, and browns + and blues. In the spring, however, the plumage of the male + begins to fade, and in two months, every vestige of his finery + has departed, and he is not to be distinguished from his + soberly-garbed wife. Then the greens, and the blues, and the + browns begin to bud out again, and by October he is once more a + gorgeous drake. It is to be regretted that domestication has + seriously deteriorated the moral character of the duck. In a + wild state, he is a faithful husband, desiring but one wife, and + devoting himself to her; but no sooner is he domesticated than + he becomes polygamous, and makes nothing of owning ten or a + dozen wives at a time. As regards the females, they are much + more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild state + than a tame. Should a tame duck's duckling get into mortal + trouble, its mother will just signify her sorrow by an extra + "quack," or so, and a flapping of her wings; but touch a wild + duck's little one if you dare! she will buffet you with her + broad wings, and dash boldly at your face with her stout beak. + If you search for her nest amongst the long grass, she will try + no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it, her favourite _ruse_ + being to pretend lameness, to delude you into the notion that + you have only to pursue _her_ vigorously, and her capture is + certain; so you persevere for half a mile or so, and then she is + up and away, leaving you to find your way back to the nest if + you can. Among the ancients, opinion was at variance respecting + the wholesomeness and digestibility of goose flesh, but + concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed; + indeed, they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for + exquisite flavour and delicacy, they even attributed to it + medicinal powers of the highest order. Not only the Roman + medical writers of the time make mention of it, but likewise the + philosophers of the period. Plutarch assures us that Cato + preserved his whole household in health, in a season when plague + and disease were rife, through dieting them on roast duck. + +STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +935. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or +4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of thin +gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3 +cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1 +teaspoonful of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, lay +them in with the slices of lean ham or bacon; make it brown, then dredge +in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding the +gravy. Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it has +simmered for 1/4 hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew gently +for about 1/2 hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; take out the +duck, place it round the dish, and the peas in the middle. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August. + + DUCKS HATCHING.--Concerning incubation by ducks, a practised + writer says, "The duck requires a secret and safe place, rather + than any attendance, and will, at nature's call, cover her eggs + and seek her food. On hatching, there is not often a necessity + for taking away any of the brood; and, having hatched, let the + mother retain her young ones upon the nest her own time. On her + moving with her brood, let a coop be prepared upon the short + grass, if the weather be fine, and under shelter, if otherwise." + + COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS.--Brood ducks should be cooped at + some distance from any other. A wide and flat dish of water, to + be often renewed, should stand just outside the coop, and + barley, or any other meal, be the first food of the ducklings. + It will be needful, if it be wet weather, to clip their tails, + lest these draggle, and so weaken the bird. The period of the + duck's confinement to the coop will depend on the weather, and + on the strength of the ducklings. A fortnight is usually the + extent of time necessary, and they may even be sometimes + permitted to enjoy the luxury of a swim at the end of a week. + They should not, however, be allowed to stay too long in the + water at first; for they will then become ill, their feathers + get rough, and looseness of the bowels ensue. In the latter + case, let them be closely cooped for a few days, and bean-meal + or oatmeal be mixed with their ordinary food. + +[Illustration: AYLESBURY DUCKS.] + + THE AYLESBURY DUCK.--The white Aylesbury duck is, and + deservedly, a universal favourite. Its snowy plumage and + comfortable comportment make it a credit to the poultry-yard, + while its broad and deep breast, and its ample back, convey the + assurance that your satisfaction will not cease at its death. In + parts of Buckinghamshire, this member of the duck family is bred + on an extensive scale; not on plains and commons, however, as + might be naturally imagined, but in the abodes of the cottagers. + Round the walls of the living-rooms, and of the bedroom even, + are fixed rows of wooden boxes, lined with hay; and it is the + business of the wife and children to nurse and comfort the + feathered lodgers, to feed the little ducklings, and to take the + old ones out for an airing. Sometimes the "stock" ducks are the + cottager's own property, but it more frequently happens that + they are intrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder, who pays + him so much _per_ score for all ducklings properly raised. To be + perfect, the Aylesbury duck should be plump, pure white, with + yellow feet, and a flesh-coloured beak. + +STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +936. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good +gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, +1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz, of butter rolled in flour, 1-1/2 +pint of green peas. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the duck into joints, lay it in the gravy, and add a +seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced lemon-peel; let tins gradually +warm through, but not boil. Throw the peas into boiling water slightly +salted, and boil them rapidly until tender. Drain them, stir in the +pounded sugar, and the butter rolled in flour; shake them over the fire +for two or three minutes, and serve in the centre of the dish, with the +duck laid round. + +_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the peas, when they are full grown. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 10d. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August. + + FATTENING DUCKS.--Many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in + the shape of food, letting them wander about and pick up a + living for themselves; and they will seem to get fat even upon + this precarious feeding. Unless, however, ducks are supplied + with, besides chance food, a liberal feed of solid corn, or + grain, morning and evening, their flesh will become flabby and + insipid. The simple way to fatten ducks is to let them have as + much, substantial food as they will eat, bruised oats and + pea-meal being the standard fattening food for them. No cramming + is required, as with the turkey and some other poultry: they + will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation. At the + same time, plenty of exercise and clean water should be at their + service. + + AMERICAN MODE OF CAPTURING DUCKS.--On the American rivers, the + modes of capture are various. Sometimes half a dozen artificial + birds are fastened to a little raft, and which is so weighted + that the sham birds squat naturally on the water. This is quite + sufficient to attract the notice of a passing flock, who descend + to cultivate the acquaintance of the isolated few when the + concealed hunter, with his fowling-piece, scatters a deadly + leaden shower amongst them. In the winter, when the water is + covered with rubble ice, the fowler of the Delaware paints his + canoe entirely white, lies flat in the bottom of it, and floats + with the broken ice; from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to + distinguish it. So floats the canoe till he within it + understands, by the quacking, and fluttering, and whirring of + wings, that he is in the midst of a flock, when he is up in a + moment with the murderous piece, and dying quacks and + lamentations rend the still air. + +[Illustration: BOW-BILL DUCKS.] + + Bow-BILL DUCKS, &c.--Every one knows how awkward are the + _Anatidae_, waddling along on their unelastic webbed toes, and + their short legs, which, being placed considerably backward, + make the fore part of the body preponderate. Some, however, are + formed more adapted to terrestrial habits than others, and + notably amongst these may be named _Dendronessa sponsa_, the + summer duck of America. This beautiful bird rears her young in + the holes of trees, generally overhanging the water. When strong + enough, the young scramble to the mouth of the hole, launch into + the air with their little wings and feet spread out, and drop + into their favourite element. Whenever their birthplace is at + some distance from the water, the mother carries them to it, one + by one, in her bill, holding them so as not to injure their yet + tender frame. On several occasions, however, when the hole was + 30, 40, or more yards from a piece of water, Audubon observed + that the mother suffered the young to fall on the grass and + dried leaves beneath the tree, and afterwards led them directly + to the nearest edge of the next pool or creek. There are some + curious varieties of the domestic duck, which only appear + interesting from their singularity, for there does not seem to + be anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which + distinguish them; thus, the bow-bill duck, as shown in the + engraving, called by some writers the hook-bill, is remarkable + for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak, and the tuft + on the top of its head. The penguin duck, again, waddles in an + upright position, like the penguin, on account of the unnatural + situation of its legs. These odd peculiarities add nothing of + value to the various breeds, and may be set down as only the + result of accidental malformation, transmitted from generation + to generation. + +STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +937. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good +gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury +herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after being +peeled, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, and +herbs, and put them, with the duck, into the gravy; add the pounded +mace, and stew gently for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. Cut about 1 lb. of +turnips, weighed after being peeled, into 1/2-inch squares, put the +butter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite tender, which will be in +about 1/2 hour, or rather more; season with pepper and salt, and serve +in the centre of the dish, with the duck, &c. laid round. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour to stew the turnips. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + + THE WILD DUCK.--In many parts of England the wild duck is to be + found, especially in those desolate fenny parts where water + abounds. In Lincolnshire they are plentiful, and are annually + taken in the decoys, which consist of ponds situate in the + marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds + which frequent them from, being disturbed. In these the birds + sleep during the day; and as soon as evening sets in, the _decoy + rises_, and the wild fowl feed during the night. Now is the time + for the decoy ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds + diverge, in different directions, certain canals, at the end of + which funnel nets are placed; along these the _decoy ducks_, + trained for the purpose, lead the others in search of food. + After they have got a certain length, a decoy-man appears, and + drives them further on, until they are finally taken in the + nets. It is from these decoys, in Lincolnshire, that the London + market is mostly supplied. The Chinese have a singular mode of + catching these ducks. A person wades in the water up to the + chin, and, having his head covered with an empty calabash, + approaches the place where the ducks are. As the birds have no + suspicion of the nature of the object which is concealed under + the calabash, they suffer its approach, and allow it to move at + will among their flock. The man, accordingly, walks about in the + midst of his game, and, whenever he pleases, pulls them by the + legs under the water, and fixes them to his belt, until he has + secured as many as he requires, and then moves off as he went + amongst them, without exciting the slightest suspicion of the + trick he has been playing them. This singular mode of + duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, the earthen + vessels of the Hindoos being used instead of calabashes. These + vessels, being those in which the inhabitants boil their rice, + are considered, after once being used, as defiled, and are + accordingly thrown into the river. The duck-takers, finding them + suitable for their purpose, put them on their heads; and as the + ducks, from seeing them constantly floating down the stream, are + familiar with their appearance, they regard them as objects from + which no danger is to be expected. + +[Illustration: CALL-DUCKS.] + + DUCK-SNARES IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE FENS.--The following interesting + account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the + Lincolnshire fens, was published some years ago, in a work + entitled the "Feathered Tribes."--"In the lakes to which they + resorted, their favourite haunts were observed, and in the most + sequestered part of a haunt, a pipe or ditch was cut across the + entrance, decreasing gradually in width from the entrance to the + further end, which was not more than two feet wide. The ditch + was of a circular form, but did not bend much for the first ten + yards. The banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept + clear of weeds and close herbage, in order that the ducks might + get on them to sit and dress themselves. Along the ditch, poles + were driven into the ground close to the edge on each side, and + the tops were bent over across the ditch and tied together. The + poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed + an arch, the top of which was tea feet distant from the surface + of the water; the arch was made to decrease in height as the + ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more + than eighteen inches in height. The poles were placed about six + feet from each other, and connected by poles laid lengthwise + across the arch, and tied together. Over the whole was thrown a + net, which was made fast to a reed fence at the entrance and + nine or ten yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged + to the ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the + entrance, was fixed what was called a tunnel-net, of about four + yards in length, of a round form, and kept open by a number of + hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed at a small + distance from each other to keep it distended. Supposing the + circular bend of the ditch to be to the right, when one stands + with his back to the lake, then on the left-hand side, a number + of reed fences were constructed, called shootings, for the + purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, and, in + such a manner, that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed + while he was driving those that were in the pipe. These + shootings, which were ten in number, were about four yards in + length and about six feet high. From the end of the last + shooting a person could not see the lake, owing to the bend of + the ditch; and there was then no further occasion for shelter. + Were it not for these shootings, the fowl that remained about + the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed, if the person + driving the fowl already under the net should have been exposed, + and would have become so shy as entirely to forsake the place." + + THE DECOY MAN, DOG, AND DUCKS.--"The first thing the decoy-man + did, on approaching the ditch, was to take a piece of lighted + peat or turf, and to hold it near his mouth, to prevent the + birds from smelling him. He was attended by a dog trained to + render him assistance. He walked very silently about halfway up + the shootings, where a small piece of wood was thrust through + the reed fence, which made an aperture just large enough to + enable him to see if there were any fowl within; if not, he + walked to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch. If + there were, he stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a + piece of cheese to eat, when the dog went directly to a hole + through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew off the + back into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the + reed fences, and came out to his master at another hole. The man + then gave the dog something more to encourage him, and the dog + repeated his rounds, till the birds were attracted by his + motions, and followed him into the mouth of the ditch--an + operation which was called 'working them.' The man now retreated + further back, working the dog at different holes, until the + ducks were sufficiently under the net. He then commanded his dog + to lie down under the fence, and going himself forward to the + end of the ditch next the lake, he took off his hat, and gave it + a wave between the shootings. All the birds that were under the + net could then see him, but none that were in the lake could. + The former flew forward, and the man then ran to the next + shooting, and waved his hat, and so on, driving them along until + they came into the tunnel-net, into which they crept. When they + were all in, the man gave the net a twist, so as to prevent them + getting back. He then took the net off from the end of the + ditch, and taking out, one by one, the ducks that were in it, + dislocated their necks." + +BOILED FOWLS OR CHICKENS. + +[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.] + +938. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls; water. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--In choosing fowls for boiling, it should be +borne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally much +whiter when dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and truss them in the +following manner, without the livers in the wings; and, in drawing, be +careful not to break the gall-bladder:--Cut off the neck, leaving +sufficient skin to skewer back. Cut the feet off to the first joint, +tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist the +wings over the back of the fowl, and secure the top of the leg and the +bottom of the wing together by running a skewer through them and the +body. The other side must be done in the same manner. Should the fowl be +very large and old, draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in. +Make a slit in the apron of the fowl, large enough to admit the parson's +nose, and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their +proper place. + +_Mode_.--When, they are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpan with +plenty of hot water; bring it to boil, and carefully remove all the scum +as it rises. _Simmer very gently_ until the fowl is tender, and bear in +mind that the slower it boils, the plumper and whiter will the fowl be. +Many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth to preserve the colour, and to +prevent the scum from clinging to them; in this case, a few slices of +lemon should be placed on the breasts; over these a sheet of buttered +paper, and then the cloth; cooking them in this manner renders the flesh +very white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or pickled pork, are the +usual accompaniments to boiled fowls, and they may be served with +Bechamel, white sauce, parsley and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, celery, +or mushroom sauce. A little should be poured over the fowls, after the +skewers are removed, and the remainder sent in a tureen to table. + +_Time_.--Large fowl, 1 hour; moderate-sized one, 3/4 hour; chicken, from +20 minutes to 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. the pair. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. + +[Illustration: GAME-FOWLS.] + + THE GAME FOWL.--Respecting the period at which this well-known + member of the _Gallus_ family became domesticated, history is + silent. There is little doubt, however, that, like the dog, it + has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to + civilization. Although the social position of this bird is, at + the present time, highly respectable, it is nothing to what it + was when Rome was mistress of the world. Writing at that period, + Pliny says, respecting the domestic cock, "The gait of the cock + is proud and commanding; he walks with head erect and elevated + crest; alone, of all birds, he habitually looks up to the sky, + raising, at the same time, his curved and scythe-formed tail, + and inspiring terror in the lion himself, that most intrepid of + animals.----They regulate the conduct of our magistrates, and + open or close to them their own houses. They prescribe rest or + movement to the Roman fasces: they command or prohibit battles. + In a word, they lord it over the masters of the world." As well + among the ancient Greeks as the Romans, was the cock regarded + with respect, and even awe. The former people practised + divinations by means of this bird. Supposing there to be a doubt + in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle, the letter + of every day in the week would be placed face downwards, and a + grain of corn placed on each; then the sacred cock would be let + loose, and, according to the letters he pecked his corn from, so + would the battle-time be regulated. On one momentous occasion, + however, a person inimical to priestly interest officiously + examined the grain, and found that those lying on the letters + not wanted were made of wax, and the birds, preferring the true + grain, left these untouched. It is needless to add that, after + this, divination through the medium of cocks and grain fell out + of fashion. Whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were + of the "game" breed, is unknown; but that the birds were bred + for the inhuman sport of fighting many hundred years before the + Christian era, there can be no doubt. Themistocles, the Athenian + king, who flourished more than two thousand years ago, took + advantage of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to + harangue his soldiers on courage. "Observe," said he, "with what + intrepid valour they fight, inspired by no other motive than + lore of victory; whereas you have to contend for your religion + and your liberty, for your wives and children, and for the tombs + of your ancestors." And to this day his courage has not + degenerated. He still preserves his bold and elegant gait, his + sparkling eye, while his wedge-shaped beak and cruel spurs are + ever ready to support his defiant crow. It is no wonder that the + breed is not plentiful--first, on account of the few eggs laid + by the hen; and, secondly, from the incurable pugnacity of the + chicks. Half fledged broods may be found blind as bats from + fighting, and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be + at it again. Without doubt, the flesh of game fowls is every way + superior to that of every chicken of the family. + +BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOM SAUCE. + +939. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, seasoning, to taste, of pepper and +salt, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, 3/4 pint of +thickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of +pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into quarters, roast it until three-parts done, +and keep it well basted whilst at the fire. Take the fowl up, broil it +for a few minutes over a clear fire, and season it with pepper and salt. +Have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner. Put the +mushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, the ham, a +seasoning of pepper and salt, and the gravy; simmer these gently for 1/2 +hour, add the lemon-juice and sugar, dish the fowl, and pour the sauce +round them. + +_Time_.--To roast the fowl, 35 minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to January. + +[Illustration: BLACK BANTAMS.] + + THE BANTAM.--No one will dispute that for beauty, animation, + plumage, and courage the Bantam is entitled to rank next to the + game fowl. As its name undoubtedly implies, the bird is of + Asiatic origin. The choicest sorts are the buff-coloured, and + those that are entirely black. A year-old Bantam cock of pure + breed will not weigh more than sixteen ounces. Despite its small + size, however, it is marvellously bold, especially in defence of + its progeny. A friend of the writer's, residing at Kensington, + possessed a pair of thorough-bred Bantams, that were allowed the + range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kennelled. The + hen had chicks; and, when about three weeks old, one of them + strayed into the dog-kennel. The grim beast within took no + notice of the tiny fledgling; but, when the anxious mother + ventured in to fetch out the truant, with a growl the dog woke, + and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws. The cock bird + saw the tragic fate of its partner; but, nothing daunted, flew + at the dog with a fierce cry, and pecked savagely at its face. + The odds, however, were too great; and, when the terrier had + sufficiently recovered from the astonishment caused by the + sudden and unexpected attack, he seized the audacious Bantam, + and shook him to death; and, in five minutes, the devoted couple + were entombed in _Pincher's_ capacious maw. + +BOILED FOWL AND RICE. + +940. INGREDIENTS.--1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small blades of +pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of rice, parsley and +butter. + +_Mode_.--Truss the fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan with +sufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it; add the onion, +mace, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; stew very gently for about 1 +hour, should the fowl be large, and about 1/2 hour before it is ready +put in the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the latter +is tender, strain it from the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed to +dry before the fire, and, in the mean time, keep the fowl hot. Dish it, +put the rice round as a border, pour a little parsley and butter over +the fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--A large fowl, 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. + +[Illustration: DORKINGS.] + + THE DORKING.--This bird takes its name from that of a town in + Surrey, where the breed is to be found in greater numbers, and + certainly in greater perfection, than elsewhere. It is generally + believed that this particular branch of poultry was found in the + town above mentioned as long ago as the Roman era. The Dorking's + chief characteristic is that he has five claws on each foot; the + extra claw, however, is never of sufficient length to encumber + the foot, or to cause it to "drag" its nest, or scratch out the + eggs. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white; long in the + body, short in the legs, and a prolific layer. Thirty years ago, + there was much controversy respecting the origin of the Dorking. + The men of Sussex declared that the bird belonged to them, and + brought birds indigenous to their weald, and possessing all the + Dorking fine points and peculiarities, in proof of the + declaration. Others inclined to the belief that the Poland bird + was the father of the Dorking, and not without at least a show + of reason, as the former bird much resembles the latter in + shape; and, despite its sombre hue, it is well known that the + Poland cock will occasionally beget thorough white stock from + white English hens. The commotion has, however, long ago + subsided, and Dorking still retains its fair reputation for + fowl. + +CURRIED FOWL. + +941. INGREDIENTS.--1 fowl, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions sliced, 1 pint of +white veal gravy, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of +flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan, with the onions sliced, the fowl +cut into small joints, and the apple peeled, cored, and minced. Fry of a +pale brown, add the stock, and stew gently for 20 minutes; rub down the +curry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy, quite smoothly, and +stir this to the other ingredients; simmer for rather more than 1/2 +hour, and just before serving, add the above proportion of hot cream and +lemon-juice. Serve with boiled rice, which may either be heaped lightly +on a dish by itself, or put round the curry as a border. + +_Time_.--50 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in the winter. + +_Note_.--This curry may be made of cold chicken, but undressed meat will +be found far superior. + + THE POLAND.--This bird, a native of Holland, is a great + favourite with fowl-keepers, especially those who have on eye to + profit rather than to amusement. Those varieties known as the + "silver spangled" and the "gold spangled" are handsome enough to + please the most fastidious; but the common black breed, with the + bushy crown of white feathers, is but a plain bird. The chief + value of the common Poland lies in the great number of eggs they + produce; indeed, in many parts, they are as well known as + "everlasting layers" as by their proper name. However, the + experienced breeder would take good care to send the eggs of his + everlasting layers to market, and not use them for home + consumption, as, although they may be as large as those laid by + other hens, the amount of nutriment contained in them is not + nearly so great. Mr. Mowbray once kept an account of the number + of eggs produced by this prolific bird, with the following + result:--From the 25th of October to the 25th of the following + September five hens laid 503 eggs; the average weight of each + egg was one ounce five drachms, and the total weight of the + whole, exclusive of the shells, 50-1/4 pounds. Taking the weight + of the birds at the fair average of five pounds each, we thus + see them producing within a year double their weight of egg + alone; and, supposing every egg to contain a chick, and allowing + the chick to, grow, in less than eighteen months from the laying + of the first egg, _two thousand five hundred pounds_ of + chicken-meat would be the result. The Poland is easily fattened, + and its flesh is generally considered juicier and of richer + flavour than most others. + +[Illustration: SPANGLED POLANDS.] + +CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery). + +942. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large onions, 1 +apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful +of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut the +fowl into neat joints; fry these in the butter of a nice brown; then add +the curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew for about 20 minutes. Put +in the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice, either placed in a ridge +round the dish or separately. Two or three shallots or a little garlic +may be added, if approved. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Av. cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, +6d. + +_Seasonable_ in the winter. + +[Illustration: COCHIN-CHINAS.] + + THE COCHIN-CHINA.--About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this + distinguished Asiatic created in England as great a sensation as + might be expected from the landing of an invading host. The + first pair that ever made their appearance here were natives of + Shanghai, and were presented to the queen, who exhibited them at + the Dublin poultry-show of 1818. Then began the "Cochin" + _furor_. As soon as it was discovered, despite the most + strenuous endeavours to keep the tremendous secret, that a + certain dealer was possessed of a pair of these birds, + straightway the avenues to that dealer's shop were blocked by + broughams, and chariots, and hack cabs, until the shy poulterer + had been tempted by a sufficiently high sum to part with his + treasure. Bank-notes were exchanged for Cochin chicks, and + Cochin eggs were in as great demand as though they had been laid + by the fabled golden goose. The reign of the Cochin China was, + however, of inconsiderable duration. The bird that, in 1847, + would fetch thirty guineas, is now counted but ordinary + chicken-meat, and its price is regulated according to its weight + when ready for the spit. As for the precious buff eggs, against + which, one time of day, guineas were weighed,--send for + sixpenn'orth at the cheesemonger's, and you will get at least + five; which is just as it should be. For elegance of shape or + quality of flesh, the Cochin cannot for a moment stand + comparison with our handsome dunghill; neither can the + indescribable mixture of growling and braying, peculiar to the + former, vie with the musical trumpeting of our own morning + herald: yet our poultry-breeders have been immense gainers by + the introduction of the ungainly celestial, inasmuch as _new + blood_ has been infused into the English chicken family. Of this + incalculable advantage we may be sure; while, as to the Cochin's + defects, they are certain to be lost in the process of "cross + and cross" breeding. + +BOILED FOWLS A LA BECHAMEL. + +943. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls, 1 pint of Bechamel, No, 367, a few +bunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower. + +_Mode_.--Truss and boil the fowls by recipe No. 938; make a pint of +Bechamel sauce by recipe No. 367; pour some of this over the fowls, and +the remainder send to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with bunches +of boiled cauliflowers or brocoli, and serve very hot. The sauce should +be made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls; that for the tureen +should be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. a pair. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. + + SPACE FOR FOWLS.--We are no advocates for converting the + domestic fowl into a cage-bird. We have known amateur + fowl-keepers--worthy souls, who would butter the very barley + they gave their pets, if they thought they would the more enjoy + it--coop up a male bird and three or four hens in an ordinary + egg-chest placed on its side, and with the front closely barred + with iron hooping! This system will not do. Every animal, from + man himself to the guinea-pig, must have what is vulgarly, but + truly, known as "elbow-room;" and it must be self-evident how + emphatically this rule applies to winged animals. It may be + urged, in the case of domestic fowls, that from constant disuse, + and from clipping and plucking, and other sorts of maltreatment, + their wings can hardly be regarded as instruments of flight; we + maintain, however, that you may pluck a fowl's wing-joints as + bare as a pumpkin, but you will not erase from his memory that + he is a fowl, and that his proper sphere is the open air. If he + likewise reflects that he is an ill-used fowl--a prison-bird--he + will then come to the conclusion, that there is not the least + use, under such circumstances, for his existence; and you must + admit that the decision is only logical and natural. + +BOILED FOWL, with Oysters. + +(_Excellent_.) + +944. INGREDIENTS.--1 young fowl, 3 dozen oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, +1/4 pint of cream. + +_Mode_.--Truss a young fowl as for boiling; fill the inside with oysters +which have been bearded and washed in their own liquor; secure the ends +of the fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar into a saucepan of +boiling water. Keep it boiling for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer; then +take the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which there +will be a good quantity; stir in the cream and yolks of eggs, add a few +oysters scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get quite _hot_, but do +not allow it to _boil;_ pour some of it over the fowl, and the remainder +send to table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace added to the sauce, +with the cream and eggs, will be found an improvement. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to April. + + THE FOWL-HOUSE.--In building a fowl-house, take care that it be, + if possible, built against a wall or fence that faces the + _south_, and thus insure its inmates against many cold winds, + driving rains, and sleets they will otherwise suffer. Let the + floor of the house slope half an inch to the foot from back to + front, so as to insure drainage; let it also be close, hard, and + perfectly smooth; so that it may be cleanly swept out. A capital + plan is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it + over the floor, and pay a paviour's labourer a trifle to hammer + it level with his rammer. The fowl-house should be seven feet + high, and furnished with perches at least two feet apart. The + perches must be level, and not one above the other, or + unpleasant consequences may ensue to the undermost row. The + perches should be ledged (not fixed--just dropped into sockets, + that they may be easily taken out and cleaned) not lower than + five feet from the ground, convenient slips of wood being driven + into the wall, to render the ascent as easy as possible. The + front of the fowl-house should be latticed, taking care that the + interstices be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl + through. Nesting-boxes, containing soft hay, and fitted against + the walls, so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder, + should be supplied. It will be as well to keep by you a few + portable doors, so that you may hang one before the entrance to + a nesting-box, when the hen goes in to sit. This will prevent + other hens from intruding, a habit to which some are much + addicted. + +FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree). + +945. INGREDIENTS.--2 small fowls or 1 large one, 3 oz. of butter, a +bunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1 shalot, +1 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks +of 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Choose a couple of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing, +singeing, and washing them, skin, and carve them into joints; blanch +these in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes; take them out, and immerse +them in cold water to render them white. Put the trimmings, with the +necks and legs, into a stewpan; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace, +shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour to these the +water that the chickens were blanched in, and simmer gently for rather +more than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan; put in the joints of fowl, +with the above proportion of butter; dredge them with flour, let them +get hot, but do not brown them much; then moisten the fricassee with the +gravy made from the trimmings, &c., and stew very gently for 1/2 hour. +Lift the fowl into another stewpan, skim the sauce, reduce it quickly +over the fire, by letting it boil fast, and strain it over them. Add the +cream, and a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne; let it boil up, and +when ready to serve, stir to it the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs: these +should not be put in till the last moment, and the sauce should be made +_hot_, but must _not boil_, or it will instantly curdle. A few +button-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many persons considered an +improvement. + +_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy, 1/2 hour to simmer the fowl. + +_Average cost_, 5s. the pair. + +_Sufficient_.--1 large fowl for one entree. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + STOCKING THE FOWL-HOUSE.--Take care that the birds with which + you stock your house are _young_. The surest indications of old + age are fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a + dingy brick-colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of + the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the scales of + the legs and feet assuming a ragged and _corny_ appearance. Your + cock and hens should be as near two years old as possible. Hens + will lay at a year old, but the eggs are always insignificant in + size, and the layers giddy and unsteady sitters. The hen-bird is + in her prime for breeding at three years old, and will continue + so, under favourable circumstances, for two years longer; after + which she will decline. Crowing hens, and those that have large + combs, are generally looked on with mistrust; but this is mere + silliness and superstition--though it is possible that a spruce + young cock would as much object to a spouse with such peculiar + addictions, as a young fellow of our own species would to a + damsel who whistled and who wore whiskers. Fowls with yellow + legs should be avoided; they are generally of a tender + constitution, loose-fleshed, and of indifferent flavour. + +FRICASSEED FOWL (Cold Meat Cookery). + +946. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip of +lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, +popper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/4 +pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Carve the fowls into nice joints; make gravy of the trimmings +and legs, by stewing them with the lemon-peel, mace, herbs, onion, +seasoning, and water, until reduced to 1/2 pint; then strain, and put in +the fowl. Warm it through, and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour; stir +the yolks of the eggs into the cream; add these to the sauce, let it get +thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. + +_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy, 1/4 hour to warm the fowl. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + CHARACTERISTICS OF HEALTH AND POWER.--The chief characteristics + of health in a fowl are brightness and dryness of eye and + nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, the feathers + elastic and glossy. The most useful cock is generally the + greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despotically, with + his head erect and his eyes ever watchful. There is likely to be + handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold, + active--even savage--bird reigns, than where the lord of the + hen-house is a weak, meek creature, who bears the abuse and + peckings of his wives without a remonstrance. I much prefer + dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage. A cock, to + be handsome, should be of middling size; his bill should be + short, comb bright-red, wattles large, breast broad, and wings + strong. His head should be rather small than otherwise, his legs + short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed; his feathers should + be short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he + crows, the better father he is likely to become. The common + error of choosing hens _above_ the ordinary stature of their + respective varieties should be avoided, as the best + breeding-hens are those of medium size. + +FRIED FOWLS (Cold Meat Cookery). + +I. + +947. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt and +cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shalots. For the batter,--1/2 lb. of +flour, 1/2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into nice joints; steep them for an hour in a +little vinegar, with salt, cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the batter +by mixing the flour and water smoothly together; melt in it the butter, +and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth; take out the pieces of +fowl, dip them in the batter, and fry, in boiling lard, a nice brown. +Pile them high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley or rolled +bacon. When approved, a sauce or gravy may be served with them. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the fowl. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + CHANTICLEER AND HIS COMPANIONS.--On bringing the male and female + birds together for the first time, it will be necessary to watch + the former closely, as it is a very common occurrence with him + to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his + wives, and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some + distance of the others; indeed, I know many cases where the + capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause of his + resentment and killed her outright. In all such cases, the hen + objected to should be removed and replaced by another. If the + cock should, by any accident, get killed, considerable delicacy + is required in introducing a new one. The hens may mope, and + refuse to associate with their new husband, clustering in + corners, and making odious comparisons between him and the + departed; or the cock may have his own peculiar notions as to + what a wife should be, and be by no means satisfied with those + you have provided him. The plan is, to keep him by himself + nearly the whole day, supplying him plentifully with + exhilarating food, then to turn him loose among the hens, and to + continue this practice, allowing him more of the society of his + wives each day, until you suffer him to abide with them + altogether. + +II. + +948. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, salt and +cayenne to taste, 4 minced shalots, yolk of egg; to every teacupful of +bread crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded mace, 5 teaspoonful of minced +lemon-peel, 1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe, then dip +them into the yolk of an egg or clarified butter; sprinkle over bread +crumbs with which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, and lemon-peel in +the above proportion. Fry a light brown, and serve with or without +gravy, as may be preferred. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the fowl. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS.--It would, I think, be a + difficult matter to find, among the entire fraternity of + fowl-keepers, a dozen whose mode of fattening "stock" is the + same. Some say that the grand f secret is to give them abundance + of saccharine food; others say nothing beats heavy corn steeped + in milk; while another breeder, celebrated in his day, and the + recipient of a gold medal from a learned society, says, "The + best method is as follows:-The chickens are to be taken from the + hen the night after they are hatched, and fed with eggs + hard-boiled, chopped, and mixed with crumbs of bread, as larks + and other small birds are fed, for the first fortnight; after + which give them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble, of + which the chickens are very fond, and thrive so fast that, at + the end of two months, they will be as large as full-grown + fowls." Others there are who insist that nothing beats + oleaginous diet, and cram their birds with ground oats and suet. + But, whatever the course of diet favoured, on one point they + seem agreed; and that is, that, while fattening, the fowls + _should be kept in the dark_. Supposing the reader to be a + dealer--a breeder of gross chicken meat for the market (against + which supposition the chances are 10,000 to 1), and beset with + as few scruples as generally trouble the huckster, the advice is + valuable. "Laugh and grow fat" is a good maxim enough; but + "Sleep and grow fat" is, as is well known to folks of porcine + attributes, a better. The poor birds, immured in their dark + dungeons, ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad, tuck + their heads under their wings and make a long night of it; while + their digestive organs, having no harder work than to pile up + fat, have an easy time enough. But, unless we are mistaken, he + who breeds poultry for his own eating, bargains for a more + substantial reward than the questionable pleasure of burying his + carving-knife in chicken grease. Tender, delicate, and + nutritious flesh is the great aim; and these qualities, I can + affirm without fear of contradiction, were never attained by a + dungeon-fatted chicken: perpetual gloom and darkness is as + incompatible with chicken life as it is with human. If you wish + to be convinced of the absurdity of endeavouring to thwart + nature's laws, plant a tuft of grass, or a cabbage-plant, in the + darkest corner of your coal-cellar. The plant or the tuft may + increase in length and breadth, but its colour will be as wan + and pale, almost, as would be your own face under the + circumstances. + +POULET A LA MARENGO. + +949. INGREDIENTS.--1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 1 +tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20 +mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered +sugar, a very small piece of garlic. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces; put them with the oil into a +stewpan, and brown them over a moderate fire; dredge in the above +proportion of flour; when that is browned, pour in the stock or water; +let it simmer very slowly for rather more than 1/2 hour, and skim off +the fat as it rises to the top; add the mushrooms; season with salt, +pepper, garlic, and sugar; take out the fowl, which arrange +pyramidically on the dish, with the inferior joints at the bottom. +Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirred +until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon; pour over the +fowl, and serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + A FOWL A LA MARENGO.--The following is the origin of the + well-known dish Poulet a la Marengo:--On the evening of the + battle the first consul was very hungry after the agitation of + the day, and a fowl was ordered with all expedition. The fowl + was procured, but there was no butter at hand, and unluckily + none could be found in the neighbourhood. There was oil in + abundance, however; and the cook having poured a certain + quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, with a clove of + garlic and other seasoning, with a little white wine, the best + the country afforded; he then garnished it with mushrooms, and + served it up hot. This dish proved the second conquest of the + day, as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate, + and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a fowl a la Marengo + is a favourite dish with all lovers of good cheer. + +MINCED FOWL A LA BECHAMEL. + +950. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonfuls of +Bechamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoonfuls of white stock No. 107, the +white of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Take the remains of roast fowls, mince the white meat very +small, and put it into a stewpan with the Bechamel and stock; stir it +well over the fire, and just let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish, +beat up the white of egg, spread it over, and strew on it a few grated +bread crumbs; pour a very little clarified butter on the whole, and +brown either before the fire or with a salamander. This should be served +in a silver dish, if at hand. + +_Time_.--2 or 3 minutes to simmer in the sauce. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE BEST WAY TO FATTEN FOWLS.--The barn-door fowl is in itself a + complete refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of + feeding practised by some. This fowl, which has the common run + of the farm-yard, living on dairy-scraps and offal from the + stable, begins to grow fat at threshing-time. He has his fill of + the finest corn; he has his fill of fresh air and natural + exercise, and at last he comes smoking to the table,--a dish + for the gods. In the matter of unnaturally stuffing and + confining fowls, Mowbray is exactly of our opinion. He says: + "The London chicken-butchers, as they are termed, are said to + be, of all others, the most expeditious and dexterous feeders, + putting up a coop of fowls, and making them thoroughly fat + within the space of a fortnight, using much grease, and that + perhaps not of the most delicate kind, in the food. In this way + I have no boasts to make, having always found it necessary to + allow a considerable number of weeks for the purpose of making + fowls fat in coops. In the common way this business is often + badly managed, fowls being huddled together in a small coop, + tearing each other to pieces, instead of enjoying that repose + which alone can insure, the wished-for object--irregularly fed + and cleaned, until they become so stenched and poisoned in their + own excrement, that their flesh actually smells and tastes when + smoking upon the table." Sussex produces the fattest and largest + poultry of any county in England, and the fatting process there + most common is to give them a gruel made of pot-liquor and + bruised oats, with which are mixed hog's grease, sugar, and + milk. The fowls are kept very warm, and crammed morning and + night. They are put into the coop, and kept there two or three + days before the cramming begins, and then it is continued for a + fortnight, and the birds are sent to market. + +RAGOUT OF FOWL. + +951. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 3 shalots, 2 blades +of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 or three slices of lean ham, 1 +pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, 1 +dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 +teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowls up into neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee; +put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots, mace, herbs, ham, +onion, and stock (water may be substituted for this). Boil it slowly for +1 hour, strain the liquor, and put a small piece of butter into a +stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the butter, +and stir it over the fire. Put in the strained liquor, boil for a few +minutes, and strain it again over the pieces of fowl. Squeeze in the +lemon-juice, add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt, make it +hot, but do not allow it to boil; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, and +garnish with croutons. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold +fowl, 9d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE BEST FOWLS TO FATTEN, &c.--The chicks most likely to fatten + well are those first hatched in the brood, and those with the + shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most + difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are + put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them; for, as says + an old writer, "then they will be in fine condition, and full of + flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of + foraging for food, and in the increase of stature; and it may be + a work of some weeks to recover it,--especially with young + cocks." But whether you take them in hand as chicks, or not till + they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are, sound + and various food, warmth, and cleanliness. There is nothing that + a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as his water. If water + any way foul be offered him, he will not drink it, but sulk with + his food, and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason + why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as + you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take + care that they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular + diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans, + brown sugar, milk, and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is + stale, then crumble it, and give each bird a gill-measureful + morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls + during the time they are fattening; indeed, the secret of + success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food + without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills + shall find no difficulty in grinding it. + +[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.] + +ROAST FOWLS. + +952. INGREDIENTS.--A pair of fowls; a little flour. + +_Mode_.--Fowls to be tender should be killed a couple of days before +they are dressed; when the feathers come out easily, then let them be +picked and cooked. In drawing them, be careful not to break the +gall-bag, as, wherever it touches, it would impart a very bitter taste; +the liver and gizzard should also be preserved. Truss them in the +following manner:--After having carefully picked them, cut off the head, +and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back. Cut off the claws; +dip the legs in boiling water, and scrape them; turn the pinions under, +run a skewer through them and the middle of the legs, which should be +passed through the body to the pinion and leg on the other side, one +skewer securing the limbs on both sides. The liver and gizzard should be +placed in the wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other. +Tie the legs together by passing a trussing-needle, threaded with twine, +through the backbone, and secure it on the other side. If trussed like a +capon, the legs are placed more apart. When firmly trussed, singe them +all over; put them down to a bright clear fire, paper the breasts with a +sheet of buttered paper, and keep the fowls well basted. Roast them for +3/4 hour, more or less, according to the size, and 10 minutes before +serving, remove the paper, dredge the fowls with a little fine flour, +put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste the +fowls with it; when nicely frothed and of a rich colour, serve with good +brown gravy, a little of which should be poured over the fowls, and a +tureen of well-made bread sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauce +are very suitable accompaniments to roast fowl.--Chicken is roasted in +the same manner. + +_Time_.--A very large fowl, quite 1 hour, medium-sized one 3/4 hour, +chicken 1/2 hour, or rather longer. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. a pair; when scarce, 7s. 6d. the +pair. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. + + THE DISEASES OF FOWLS, AND HOW TO CURE THEM.--The diseases to + which _Gallus domesticus_ is chiefly liable, are roup, pip, + scouring, and chip. The first-mentioned is the most common of + all, and results from cold. The ordinary symptoms,--swollen + eyes, running at the nostrils, and the purple colour of the + wattles. Part birds so affected from the healthy ones, as, when + the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders + among horses. Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily + a peppercorn inclosed in dough; bathe the eyes and nostrils with + warm milk and water. If the head is much swollen, bathe with + warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting well, put half a + spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water. Some fanciers + prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table salt, + dissolved in half a gill of water, in which rue has been + steeped; others, pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter: + but the remedy first mentioned will be found far the best. As + there is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of the eggs laid + by roupy hens, it will be as well to throw them away. The pip is + a white horny skin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue. It + should be removed with the point of a penknife, and the place + rubbed with salt. + +FOWL AND RICE CROQUETTES (an Entree). + +953. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. of +butter, minced fowl, egg, and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or broth, +and let it boil very gently for 1/2 hour; then add the butter, and +simmer it till quite dry and soft When cold, make it into balls, hollow +out the inside, and fill with minced fowl made by recipe No. 956. The +mince should be rather thick. Cover over with rice, dip the balls into +egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Dish them, +and garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream, +may be stirred into the rice before it cools. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + CHIP.--If the birds are allowed to puddle about on wet soil, or + to be much out in the rain, they will get "chip." Young chicks + are especially liable to this complaint. They will sit shivering + in out-of-the-way corners, perpetually uttering a dolorous + "chip, chip;" seemingly frozen with cold, though, on handling + them, they are found to be in high fever. A wholesale breeder + would take no pains to attempt the cure of fowls so afflicted; + but they who keep chickens for the pleasure, and not for the + profit they yield, will be inclined to recover them if possible. + Give them none but warm food, half a peppercorn rolled in a + morsel of dough every night, and a little nitre in their water. + Above all, keep them warm; a corner in the kitchen fender, for a + day or two, will do more to effect a cure than the run of a + druggist's warehouse. + + +CROQUETTES OF FOWL (an Entree). + +954. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of +flour, white sauce; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; 1/2 +teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolks +of 2 eggs, egg, and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Mince the fowl, carefully removing all skin and bone, and fry +the shalots in the butter; add the minced fowl, dredge in the flour, put +in the pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and sufficient white sauce to +moisten it; stir to it the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by to +cool. Then make the mixture up into balls, egg and bread-crumb them, and +fry a nice brown. They may be served on a border of mashed potatoes, +with gravy or sauce in the centre. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the balls. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE TURN.--What is termed "turrling" with song-birds, is known, + as regard fowls, as the "turn." Its origin is the same in both + cases,--over-feeing and want of exercise. Without a moment's + warning, a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its + perch, and unless assistance be at hand, speedily give up the + ghost. The veins of the palate should be opened, and a few drops + of mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one of + ammonia, poured down its throat. I have seen ignorant keepers + plunge a bird, stricken with the "turn," into cold water; but I + never saw it taken out again alive; and for a good reason: the + sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the + head,--of aggravating the disease indeed, instead of relieving + it. + +HASHED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery). + +955. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint of water, 1 +onion, 2 or three small carrots, 1 blade of pounded mace, pepper and +salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter and +flour, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut off the best joints from the fowl, and the remainder make +into gravy, by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of water, an +onion sliced and fried of a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning, +and herbs. Let these stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, strain the liquor, and +thicken with a little flour and butter. Lay in the fowl, thoroughly warm +it through, add the ketchup, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1-3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + SKIN-DISEASE IN FOWLS.--Skin-disease is, nine times out of ten, + caused by the feathers being swarmed by parasites. Poor feeding + will induce this, even if cleanliness be observed; + uncleanliness, however liberal the bill of fare, will be taken + as an invitation by the little biting pests, and heartily + responded to. Mix half a teaspoonful of hydro-oxalic acid with + twelve teaspoonfuls of water,--apply to the itching parts with + an old shaving-brush. + + OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP.--Obstruction of the crop is occasioned + by weakness or greediness. You may know when a bird is so + afflicted by his crop being distended almost to bursting. + Mowbray tells of a hen of his in this predicament; when the crop + was opened, a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state + of vegetation. The crop should be slit from the _bottom_ to the + _top_ with a sharp pair of scissors, the contents taken out, and + the slit sewed up again with line white thread. + +MINCED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery). + +956. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled eggs, +salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 6 +tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, two teaspoonfuls of flour, 1/2 +teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Cut out from the fowl all the white meat, and mince it finely +without any skin or bone; put the bones, skin, and trimmings into a +stewpan with an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, and +nearly a pint of water; let this stew for an hour, then strain the +liquor. Chop the eggs small; mix them with the fowl; add salt, cayenne, +and pounded mace, put in the gravy and remaining ingredients; let the +whole just boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Another way to make this is to mince the fowl, and warm it in +white sauce or Bechamel. When dressed like this, 3 or 4 poached eggs may +be placed on the top: oysters, or chopped mushrooms, or balls of oyster +forcemeat, may be laid round the dish. + + THE MOULTING SEASON.--During the moulting season beginning + properly at the end of September, the fowls will require a + little extra attention. Keep them dry and warm, and feed them + liberally on warm and satisfying food. If in any fowl the moult + should seem protracted, examine it for broken feather-stumps + still beaded in the skin: if you find any, extract them + carefully with a pair of tweezers. If a fowl is hearty and + strong, six weeks will see him out of his trouble; if he is + weakly, or should take cold during the time, he will not + thoroughly recover in less than three months. It is seldom or + ever that hens will lay during the moult; while the cock, during + the same period, will give so little of his consideration to the + frivolities of love, that you may as well, nay, much better, + keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers. A moulting + chicken makes but a sorry dish. + +HASHED FOWL, Indian Fashion (an Entree). + +957.--INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced +onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt to +taste, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 +tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the onions into slices, mince the apple, and fry these in +the butter; add pounded mace, pepper, salt, curry-powder, vinegar, +flour, and sugar in the above proportions; when the onion is brown, put +it the gravy, which should be previously made from the bones and +trimmings of the fowls, and stew for 3/4 hour; add the fowl cut into +nice-sized joints, let it warm through, and when quite tender, serve. +The dish should be garnished with au edging of boiled rice. + +_Time_.--1 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE SCOUR OR DYSENTERY.--The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhoea, + is induced variously. A sudden alteration in diet will cause it, + as will a superabundance of green food. The best remedy is a + piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale. If the disease has too + tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this, give six drops + of syrup of white poppies and six drops of castor-oil, mixed + with a little oatmeal or ground rice. Restrict the bird's diet, + for a few days, to dry food,--crushed beans or oats, stale + bread-crumbs, &c. + + FOWL SCOLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). + + 958. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, 1/2 + pint of Bechamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539. + + _Mode_.--Strip off the skin from the fowl; cut the meat into + thin slices, and warm them in about 1/2 pint, or rather more, of + Bechamel, or white sauce. When quite hot, serve, and garnish the + dish with rolled ham or bacon toasted. + + _Time_.--1 minute to simmer the slices of fowl. + + _Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.] + + THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.--Since the introduction of the Bantam + into Europe, it has ramified into many varieties, none of which + are destitute of elegance, and some, indeed, remarkable for + their beauty. All are, or ought to be, of small size, but lively + and vigorous, exhibiting in their movements both grace and + stateliness. The variety shown in the engraving is remarkable + for the _tarsi_, or beams of the legs, being plumed to the toes, + with stiff, long feathers, which brush the ground. Owing, + possibly, to the little care taken to preserve this variety from + admixture, it is now not frequently seen. Another variety is + often red, with a black breast and single dentated comb. The + _tarsi_ are smooth, and of a dusky blue. When this sort of + Bantam is pure, it yields in courage and spirit to none, and is, + in fact, a game-fowl in miniature, being as beautiful and + graceful as it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, possessing all + the qualifications just named, is also bred in the royal aviary + at Windsor. + +AN INDIAN DISH OF FOWL (an Entree). + +959. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced onions, +1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Divide the fowl into joints; slice and fry the onions in a +little butter, taking care not to burn them; sprinkle over the fowl a +little curry-powder and salt; fry these nicely, pile them high in the +centre of the dish, cover with the onion, and serve with a cut lemon on +a plate. Care must be taken that the onions are not greasy: they should +be quite dry, but not burnt. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the fowl. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ during the winter month. + +[Illustration: SPECKLED HAMBURGS.] + + THE SPECKLED HAMBURG.--Of the speckled, or spangled Hamburg + which is a favourite breed with many persons, there are two + varieties,--the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled. The + general colour of the former is golden, or orange-yellow, each + feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip, particularly + remarkable on the hackles of the cock and the wing-coverts, and + also on the darker feathers of the breast. The female is yellow, + or orange-brown, the feathers in like manner being margined with + black. The silver-speckled variety is distinguished by the + ground-colour of the plumage being of a silver-white, with + perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow, every leather being margined + with a semi-lunar mark of glossy black. Both of these varieties + are extremely beautiful, the hens laying freely. First-rate + birds command a high price. + +FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree). + +960. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. of butter, +pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 +pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of pounded +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into nice pieces; put the butter into a stew-pan; +sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, previously sprinkling it +with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in the flour, shake the +ingredients well round, then add the stock and peas, and stew till the +latter are tender, which will be in about 20 minutes; put in the pounded +sugar, and serve, placing the chicken round, and the peas in the middle +of the dish. When liked, mushrooms may be substituted for the peas. + +_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 7d. + +_Seasonable_ from June to August. + + +BOUDIN A LA REINE (an Entree). + +(M. Ude's Recipe.) + +961. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of Bechamel +No. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls; cut it +into small dice of an equal size, and throw them into some good +Bechamel, made by recipe No. 367; season with salt and cayenne, and put +the mixture into a dish to cool. When this preparation is quite cold, +cut it into 2 equal parts, which should be made into _boudins_ of a long +shape, the size of the dish they are intended to be served on; roll them +in flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and be careful that the ends are +well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in the +frying-pan; fry them a nice colour, put them before the fire to drain +the greasy moisture from them, and serve with the remainder of the +Bechamel poured round: this should be thinned with a little stock. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the boudins. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entree. + +[Illustration: SEBRIGHT BANTAMS.] + + SIR JOHN SEBRIGHT'S BANTAMS.--Above all Bantams is placed, the + celebrated and beautiful breed called Sir John Sebright's Silver + Bantams. This breed, which Sir John brought to perfection after + years of careful trials, is very small, with un-feathered legs, + and a rose comb and short hackles. The plumage is gold or + silver, spangled, every feather being of a golden orange, or of + a silver white, with a glossy jet-black margin; the cocks have + the tail folded like that of a hen, with the sickle feathers + shortened straight, or nearly so, and broader than usual. The + term _hen-cocks_ is, in consequence, often applied to them; but + although the sickle feathers are thus modified, no bird + possesses higher courage, or a more gallant carriage. The + attitude of the cock is, indeed, singularly proud; and he is + often seen to bear himself so haughtily, that his head, thrown + back as if in disdain, nearly touches the two upper + feathers--sickles they can scarcely be called--of his tail. + Half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon, but birds of the + pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense; + indeed, some time ago, it was almost impossible to procure + either a fowl or an egg. "The finest," says the writer whom we + have consulted as to this breed, "we have ever seen, were in Sir + John's poultry-yard, adjacent to Turnham-Green Common, in the + byroad leading to Acton." + +FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE. + +962. INGREDIENTS.--A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5 +young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive. + +_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, piling +them high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by recipe +No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves, +water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs: these may be sliced in +rings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece of +the white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid fish +may be dressed a la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or supper +dishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the moment +of serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise be required, use 2 fowls +instead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients. + +_Average cost_, with one fowl, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. + +_Seasonable_ from April to September. + +[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH.] + + BLACK SPANISH.--The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its + uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its + peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and + wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a + very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently, + their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be + hatched. "In purchasing Spanish," says an authority, "blue legs, + the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage, + and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which + should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should + be insisted on." The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from + the smallness of its body when compared with that of the + Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table. + Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their + handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb, + face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept + fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any + other variety. + +FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish). + +963. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of +stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1/4 +oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of +cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2 +hard-boiled eggs. + +_Mode_.--Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a +frying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the +rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a +stewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly +in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the +fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice, +which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions into +slices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a +nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled, +and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a +dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and +the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Before +taking the rice out, remove the spices. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it. + +_Average cost_, 4s. 3d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: SULTANS.] + + THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.--This fowl is the size + of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to + England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized, + compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing + tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot. + Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their + wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In + January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople; + and they take their name from _sarai_, the Turkish word for + sultan's palace, and _ta-ook_, the Turkish for fowl. They are + thus called the "fowls of the sultan," a name which has the + twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by + which they have been known in their own country, and of + designating the country whence they come. Their habits are + described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not + so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers; + but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large + and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run + long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon + satisfy themselves and walk away. + +POULET AUX CRESSONS. + +964. INGREDIENTS.--A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy. + +_Mode_.--Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that it +is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick them +nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over a +little salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these the +fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in a +tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +ROAST FOWL, Stuffed. + +965. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour. + +_Mode_.--Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, made +by recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl, +dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it for +nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers, +and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce. + +_Time_.--Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. + +_Note_.--Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this is +now a very general mode of serving fowl. + +[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.] + + PENCILLED HAMBURG.--This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two + colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The + hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with + several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be + perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the + pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver + birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes + graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely + well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day + layers. They are also known in different parts of the country, + as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and, + in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls. + They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred + in this country are greatly superior in size. + +GIBLET PIE. + +966. INGREDIENTS.--A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak, +1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savoury +herbs, plain crust. + +_Mode_.--Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, whole +pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint of +water, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let them +cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few +pieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of +steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which should +be strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust, +and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a piece +of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + THE BRENT GOOSE.--This is the smallest and most numerous species + of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its + appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts + and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby + states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to + the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the + mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which + are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast + appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time + immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware + geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine + vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable. + +HASHED GOOSE. + +967. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of +butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and +salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of +mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferior +joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice and +fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to the +trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew these +gently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it with +flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion; +add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; let +these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, and +serve with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--Altogether, rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + THE WILD GOOSE.--This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag" + and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to + Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young, + and familiarize. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is known to + Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia + Minor." It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance, + and by the Romans was cherished accordingly. + +ROAST GOOSE. + +968. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of +bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump +breast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old. +Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, the +flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully +wash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the +skin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, and +separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat with +a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, and +having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each, +and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into the +small of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through, +and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and +make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump, +in order to keep in the seasoning. + +[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.] + +_Mode_.--Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by +recipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly +at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, and +the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this means +the seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it well +basted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Remove +the skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-made +apple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the +onions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, the +mild seasoning is far superior. A ragout, or pie, should be made of the +giblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve +the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled by +coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint to +carve, a _large_ quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose, +but sent in a tureen. + +_Time_.--A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 +hour. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmas +to Christmas. + +_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. + +_Note_.--A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few +grains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured +into the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many +persons, considered an improvement. + +[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.] + + THE GOOSE.--This bird is pretty generally distributed over the + face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland, + Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in + England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a + native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of + Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks + are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They + thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large + herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by + the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr. + Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the + minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it + is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose + is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its + full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is + insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between + both; from the second week in June to the first in September." + It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen + Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her + majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English + baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the + Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded + the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas. + We here give an engraving of the Emden goose. + +TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE. + +969. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Geese are called green till they are about four months old, and +should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same as +in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and +salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for +about 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy, +and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished with +water-cresses. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + +[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE.] + + THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.--Especial attention has been directed to + this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the + ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern + travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese + stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk + of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed. + Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is + represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the + resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also said to + have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by + Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of + half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain, + but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the + southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa. + The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a + well-known bird. + +ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded. + +970. INGREDIENTS.--A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt. + +_Mode_.--When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a +pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and +trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted, +and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let +it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of +the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce. + +_Time_.--Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Note_.--The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper, +and removed about 10 minutes before serving. + +[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.] + + THE GUINEA-FOWL.--The bird takes its name from Guinea, in + Africa, where it is found--wild, and in great abundance. It is + gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three + hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching + upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as + that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though + domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to + wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In + their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl, + but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it + frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both + savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out + of season. + +LARK PIE (an Entree). + +971. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9 +larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful +of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and +pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stock +or water, puff-paste. + +_Mode_.--Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley, +and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; roll +the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a +few slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and season +with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the above +proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake for +an hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it +2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a dozen. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season in November. + + +ROAST LARKS. + +972. INGREDIENTS.--Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter. + +_Mode_.--These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, and +may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when they +are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with +bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continually +with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the +birds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified +butter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are +also very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and would +take about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season in November. + +_Note_.--Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them with +egg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs. + + +BROILED PIGEONS. + +973. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefully +pluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over with +butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderate +fire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either +mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, and +served with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled +fowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil. + +_Time_.--To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one, +the same time. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 9d. each. + +_Seasonable_ from April to September, but in the greatest perfection +from midsummer to Michaelmas. + + THE POUTER PIGEON.--This is a very favourite pigeon, and, + without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail + strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated + crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized + turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a + ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white + trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat; + his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy + protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little + "swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The + most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an + intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a + prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate, + if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than + any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if + you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its + home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to + induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves + comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse + than intrust them with the care of their own eggs. + +ROAST PIGEONS. + +974. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Trussing_.--Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a +little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as +killed. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and +cut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they should +be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing. + +[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON.] + +_Mode_.--Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and +salt, and put about 3/4 oz. of butter into the body of each: this makes +them moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well the +whole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20 +to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of +parsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl, +are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce. + +_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each. + +_Seasonable_ from April to September; but in the greatest perfection +from Midsummer to Michaelmas. + + THE PIGEON--The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the + passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over + the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic + regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at + intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like + quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence + all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the + wild state it is still found in many parts of this island, + making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees, + or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The + blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the + table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in + great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they + are most preferable for the table, and are called _squabs_; + under six months they are denominated _squeakers_, and at six + months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury, + delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are + considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are + esteemed to have the more delicate flesh. + + THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.--The first thing to be done + towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for + their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons + themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will + necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which + must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of + pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is + indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but + the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the + destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is + the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables, + brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep + pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor. + The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but + in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin + getting at the pigeons. + + ASPECT OF THE PIGEON-HOUSE.--The front of the pigeon-house + should have a southwest aspect, and, if a room be selected for + the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the + building for the passage of the pigeons, but which can be closed + at convenience. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for + the pigeons to perch upon, with some kind of defence against + strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot. + Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they + are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice, + which will not only suck the eggs, but destroy the birds. The + platform should be painted white, and renewed as the paint wears + off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most + conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house. The + boxes ought also to be similarly painted, and renewed when + necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very well. + + THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.--As cleanliness in human + habitations is of the first importance, so is it in the + pigeon-house. There the want of it will soon render the place a + nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and + old, will be so covered with vermin and filth, that they will + neither enjoy health nor comforts, whilst early mortality + amongst them will be almost certain. In some cases, the + pigeon-house is cleaned daily; but it should always be done, at + any rate, once a week, and the floor covered with sifted gravel, + frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of water, and + having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon + the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and + then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the + refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore, + they should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed. + This serves them for a bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists + them to keep their bodies clear of vermin. + + BREEDING PIGEONS.--In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match + a cock and hen, and shut them up together, or place them near to + each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little + doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the + purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen + pigeon; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is + generally so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The + pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself + to one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the + fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial. At the age of + six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then begin + to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the + well-known tone of voice in the cock, just then acquired and + commencing, are indications of their approaching union. + Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed squabs, and + are, at that age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house + pigeon is said to breed monthly, when well supplied with food. + At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost any + healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine + times in the year; whence it may readily be conceived how vast + are the numbers that may be raised. + +[Illustration: CARRIER PIGEONS.] + + THE CARRIER PIGEON.--Without doubt the carrier is entitled to + rank first in the pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps, of + the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl can be traced to so + remote an antiquity. When Greece was in its glory, carrier + pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the + victors at the Olympian games. During the holy war, when Acre + was besieged by King Richard, Saladin habitually corresponded + with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons. A shaft from an + English crossbow, however, happened to bring one of those + feathered messengers to the ground, and the stratagem was + discovered, the design of the Saracens revealed, and so turned + against the designers, that Acre was in the hands of the + Christians before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing. + +PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Recipe). + +975. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of +ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust. + +_Mode_.--Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with it +line the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and salt. +Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and put +into the body of each rather more than 1/2 oz. of butter; lay them on +the steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs, +and half fill the dish with stock; place a border of puff paste round +the edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament it in any way that +may be preferred. Clean three of the feet, and place them in a hole made +in the crust at the top: this shows what kind of pie it is. Glaze the +crust,--that is to say, brush it over with the yolk of an egg,--and bake +it in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/4 hour. When liked, a seasoning +of pounded mace may be added. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour, or rather less. _Average cost_, 5s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS.] + + TUMBLER PIGEONS.--The smaller the size of this variety, the + greater its value. The head should be round and smooth, the neck + thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit. Highly-bred + birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight + beyond that of any other pigeons; and it is in seeing these + little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the + fanciers take such delight. For four or five hours tumblers have + been known to keep on the wing; and it is when they are almost + lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those + pantomimic feats which give them their name, and which are + marked by a tumbling over-and-over process, which suggests the + idea of their having suddenly become giddy, been deprived of + their self-control, or overtaken by some calamity. This + acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some + to the absence of a proper power in the tail; but is nothing + more than a natural habit, for which no adequate reason can be + assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most + beautiful; and the greater the variation of the colour in the + flight and tail, the greater their value. + +[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS.] + + THE RUNT PIGEON.--This is generally esteemed among the largest + of the pigeon varieties, and being possessed of proportionate + strength, with a strong propensity to exercise it, they keep the + dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering + over the weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well, however, and + are valuable for the table. There is both the Leghorn and the + Spanish Runt, variously plumaged; but when red, white, or black + mottled, are most highly esteemed. One of the great advantages + connected with the Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away + from home. Being heavy birds, they find it difficult, when well + fed, to mount even to a low housetop. Again, they require no + loft, or special dwelling-place, but, if properly tended, will + be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well, in a rabbit-hutch as + any where. Their flavour is very good; and it is not an uncommon + thing for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in + weight. + +[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS.] + + THE NUN PIGEON.--The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this + variety, which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising + from the back of the head, and which, on the whole, is an + extremely pretty little bird. According to the colour of the + head, it is called the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a + perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; and the + larger the tuft at the back of his head, the handsomer the bird + is esteemed, and proportionately valuable in the eyes of + pigeon-fanciers. + +[Illustration: TRUMPETER PIGEONS.] + + THE TRUMPETER PIGEON.--From the circumstance of this bird + imitating the sound of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other + pigeons, it has received its designation. It is of the middle + size, having its legs and feet covered with feathers, and its + plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white. It has a tuft + springing from the root of its beak, and the larger this topknot + is, the higher the estimation in which the breed is held. In + their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others; and + whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of + themselves, we cannot say; but they are rather select in the + choice of their company. If two of them are put in a + pigeon-house with other doves, it will be found that they + confine their association almost entirely to each other. As much + as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of + this kind. + +[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON.] + + THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON.--Buffon enumerates upwards of thirty + varieties of the pigeon, which he derives from one root,--viz. + the stockdove, or common wild pigeon. All the varieties of + colour and form which we witness, he attributes to human + contrivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there exist essentially + specific differences in these birds, which would appear to be + attributable rather to the nature of the region, soil, and + climate to which they are indigenous, than to the art and + ingenuity of man. The stockdove, in its wild state, is still + found in some parts of Britain, forming its nest in the holes of + rocks, old towers, and in the hollows of trees; it never, + however, like the ringdove, nestles in the branches. Multitudes + of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, coming + from their more northerly retreats, making their appearance + about November, and retiring again in the spring. When forests + of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country, + these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a + mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to + feed. + +STEWED PIGEONS. + +976. INGREDIENTS.--6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2 +tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover the +pigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom +ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers, add +to these the parsley and butter, and put it into the insides of the +birds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan, +with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them; add the stock, +and stew gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish the pigeons, strain +the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port +wine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from April to September. + +[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS.] + + THE FANTAIL PIGEON.--This curious variety is inferior in point + of size to most of the other varieties, and is characterized by + having a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked legs and + feet. It has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a + turkey-cock; during which action, especially when paying court + to it's mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock when + moving about with his train expanded and in full display. This + power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the + male bird alone: the female possesses the same power to an equal + extent, and otherwise resembles the male in every respect. It is + not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or + pigeon-house as most of the other kinds. + +[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS.] + + THE JACOBIN PIGEON.--This variety, having the power to transmit + to posterity a form precisely similar, with all its peculiar + characters undiminished, is, among pigeon-fanciers, designated + as of a pure or permanent race. It is distinguished by a + remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing + behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast, forms a + kind of hood, not unlike that worn by a monk. From this + circumstance, it has obtained its Gallic name of _nonnain + capuchin_. In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic + pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It is a very + productive species, and, having its flight considerably impeded + by the size and form of its hooded frill, keeps much at home, + and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where + pigeons are confined. + +[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS.] + + THE TURBIT PIGEON.--This variety bears a strong resemblance to + the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of its + neck, occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and + standing straight out. The species is classed in accordance with + the colour of the shoulders, similarly as the Nuns are by the + colour of their heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a + full frill, short bill, and small round head. In Germany it is + called the ruffle pigeon, in allusion to the feathers on its + breast; and it has rarely any feathers on its feet. There is a + peculiarity connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers it + in the estimation of fanciers: it seldom rears more than one at + a time, which, therefore, marks it as a bird rather for + amusement than profit. + +[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS.] + + THE BARB PIGEON.--The name of this variety is a contraction of + Barbary, from which country it originally comes. It is both + prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind most + esteemed is that of one uniform colour, that of blue-black being + preferable to any other. Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed + the most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike the Carrier + pigeon, and, at a small distance, might easily be mistaken for + the latter. It has a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy, + pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic, however, + and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years + old. This peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young + birds. + +[Illustration: BLUE ROCK-PIGEON.] + + THE ROCK PIGEON.--This variety, in its wild state, is found upon + the rocky parts of the west of Scotland, and the bold shores of + the Western Isles, more abundant than in any other parts of the + British islands. As the shores of the mainland are exposed to + the muds of the Atlantic, and the comparatively small islands + are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds exposed to the + west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time, and + thus the birds easily find a supply of food. The numbers which + there congregate are often very great, and the din of their + united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming. The love of + home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in + the rock-pigeon or _biset_, as it is called by the French. + Flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the + feeding-grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes + round, each one keeps to its own party. + + [Illustration: OWL PIGEONS.] + + THE OWL PIGEON.--This pigeon does not seem to be so well known + as it formerly was, if we may judge from the fact that few + modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a + remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast, it having been + compared by some to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a + full-blown white rose. In size, it is not quite so large a + pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be preferred in France, + above other varieties, as a bird to rear and kill for the table. + In England it is very far from being common; indeed, we have + applied to several keepers of pigeons, who have fancied + themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird, and + they have been able to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir, + our artist, however, has made his portrait from the life. + + +BOILED RABBIT. + +[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.] + +977. INGREDIENTS.--Rabbit; water. + +_Mode_.--For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, as +that denotes they are young: should these be blunt and rugged, the ears +dry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and skinning it, wash +it well in cold water, and let it soak for about 1/4 hour in warm water, +to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it +there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit +into sufficient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently until +tender, which will be in from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to its size and +age. Dish it, and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liver +sauce, or parsley-and-butter; the former is, however, generally +preferred to any of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce is +preferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very +finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce. + +_Time_.--A very young rabbit, 1/2 hour; a large one, 3/4 hour; an old +one, 1 hour or longer. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + + THE RABBIT.--Though this animal is an inhabitant of most + temperate climates, it does not reach so far north as the hare. + The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in + large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and + Cambridgeshire. Its flesh is, by some, considered to have a + higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit, although it is + neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes + larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state; but it is + not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made. + +CURRIED RABBIT. + +978. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stock +No. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 +teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of rice. + +_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatly +into joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions, +and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow them to +blacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling; mix the curry +powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock, with +the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather more than 1/2 hour; +squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a dish, with an +edging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is studied, water may be +substituted for the stock; in this case, the meat and onions must be +very nicely browned. A little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewed +with the curry will be found a great improvement. + +_Time_.--Altogether 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +[Illustration: WILD RABBITS.] + + THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT.--Warrens, or inclosures, are + frequently made in favourable localities, and some of them are + so large as to comprise 2,000 acres. The common wild rabbit is + of a grey colour, and is esteemed the best for the purposes of + food. Its skin is valuable as an article of commerce, being used + for the making of hats. Another variety of the rabbit, however, + called the "silver-grey," has been lately introduced to this + country, and is still more valuable. Its colour is a black + ground, thickly interspersed with grey hairs; and its powers as + a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be + enormous, especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity + of a rabbit-warren. + +FRIED RABBIT. + +979. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, flour, dripping, 1 oz. of butter, 1 +teaspoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well; make the +dripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice +brown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, and +ketchup; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as quickly +as possible. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +_Note_.--The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled with +bread crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make a +gravy in the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, the +pieces of rabbit. + + VARIETIES IN RABBITS.--Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a + furry animal, that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground; + that it has its varieties as well as other animals, and that it + is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its + varieties, the short-legged, with width and substance of loin, + is the most hardy, and fattens the most expeditiously. It has, + besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject to + defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is + a very large species of the hare-colour, having much bone, + length and depth of carcase, large and long ears, with full + eyes, resembling those of the hare: it might readily be taken + for a hybrid or mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its + flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and more savoury than that + of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a good + dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter + and more delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival + the turkey. Rabbits are divided into four kinds, distinguished + as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener, + as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community, + and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell _upon_ the + earth and have "the world at their will," and his fur is the + most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite + resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground, where he usually breeds + in great numbers, and from which he frequently drives away the + hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit, that, tinker + like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat + on his back if he was more settled in his habits, and remained + more at home. The sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so + sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to some extent in + the important branch of hat-making. + +RABBIT A LA MINUTE. + +980. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to +taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls of +minced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint of +water. + +_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it into +joints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; add +salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts done; +then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10 minutes: it +will then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed in the same +manner. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 35 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. +each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + + +RABBIT PIE. + +981. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepper +to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a +few forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff crust. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove the +breastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, forcemeat +balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer with +pepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in about 1/2 pint of +water, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2 +hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a piece of paper +over it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at the top, by means +of the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good gravy, which may +be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and 2 or 3 +shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +Note.--The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the +forcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked. + + FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.--The fruitfulness of this animal has + been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven + times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young + ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a + period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a + single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit, + however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase + in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind; + for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is, + by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly + sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the + Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an + extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the + assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate + them. + +RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE. + +982. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2 +oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2 +slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour +and butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts, +till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a +little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream. +Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into +neat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf, +and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give one +boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 +persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + + THE RABBIT-HOUSE.--Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a + few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost + every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the + metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to + report, kept from 1,600 to 2,000 breeding does. These large + establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London + receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from + the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house + should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated. + Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to + rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing + from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are + indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither + prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough + draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely + necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold + or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or + windows. + +ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT. + +983. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper, +sausage-meat. + +[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.] + +_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, line +the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, and +to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside, +skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints of +the shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure them +by means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it down +to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it +is done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice +brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy and +red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner as +above; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting. + +_Time_.--A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + + THE HUTCH.--Hutches are generally placed one above another to + the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of + the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room, + the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval + between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual + way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches + upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience + of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for + breeding should have two rooms,--a feeding and a bed-room. Those + are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks, + which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed + smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short + handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for + cleaning these houses. + +STEWED RABBIT. + +984. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small +teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of +butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add +the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient +water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a +few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped. +Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one +boil, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT.] + + FANCY RABBITS.--The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing + that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the + animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and, + lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine + rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from + tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they + exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a + fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The + dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is + only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full + growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly + to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and + between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond + the chin. + + The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back, + independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common + observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five + and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a + first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good + family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for + a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping + down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is + scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth + more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear + lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind + possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful + the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as + finer ones. + + The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the + half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over + the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in + other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and + often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this + kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the + ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the + wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A + great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of + the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a + rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly + horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to + all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be + met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered + as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities. + + "The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek, + slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part + of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards + instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy + position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of + the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be + turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them + should remain in front: they should match exactly in their + descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible." + + The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a + breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect + does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year, + he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all. + As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder + says:-- + + "The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour, + and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is, + tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what + colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those + colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming + imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects. + Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by + distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly + smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy + rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or + lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some + resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be + termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black + and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar + manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut.' + + "But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without + which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There + should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle; + the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout; + while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark + stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to + meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the + part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is + termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or + collar hanging round the neck." + + "Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred + will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on + the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a + rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be + its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty + and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good + deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is + said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched, + rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be + held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to + reach almost to the ground." + +STEWED RABBIT, Larded. + +985. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1 +pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper +to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with +Blips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with the +broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently until +the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and +flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and +serve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to February. + +[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.] + + THE HARE-RABBIT.--There has been lately introduced to French + tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit," partaking of the + nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and + the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and + flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to + perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual + will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a + really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes; + although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its + proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game," as + by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in + England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our + rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope + successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in + introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen. + +[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT.] + + THE ANGORA RABBIT.--This is one of the handsomest of all + rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a + city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat + and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness + of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long, + waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly + esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the + inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into + England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would + materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character + of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous + district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to + apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their + houses in the rocks." + +[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.] + + THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.--Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains, + whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here + portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow, + which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet, + perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world. + It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will, + doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few + years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal, + Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification, + mining, and covered roads. + +BOILED TURKEY. + +986. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, on +account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate size +should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of +cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4 +days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluck +the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, wash +it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off the +head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off the +legs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breast +with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing and +the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the opposite +side; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and as +compact as possible. + +[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.] + +_Mode_.--Put the turkey into sufficient _hot_ water to cover it; let it +come to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attended +to, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but it +should be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for +about 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve with +either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter, +a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, +tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and when +oyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster +forcemeat. + +_Time_.--A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but more expensive at +Christmas, on account of the great demand. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from December to February. + + THE TURKEY.--The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to + America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by + the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird + was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the + wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been + controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the + French name of the bird, _dindon_, proves its origin; that the + form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in + America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from + the information which has been gained at considerable trouble, + that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th + century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who + had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France + it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in + France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America, + where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs + which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods: + they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The + turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent + and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10 + out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out + of the same number arrive at maturity. + +CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery). + +987. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. of meat +allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful +of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassee or hash, +answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or bacon +in the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, well +seasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with the +butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2 +pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the butter +must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince.) +When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool, +and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg and +bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces of +parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin. + +_Time_.--8 minutes to fry the croquettes. + +_Seasonable_ from December to February. + + THE WILD TURKEY.--In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious, + going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five + hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they + roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the + dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the + boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain + the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops, + apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they + are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but + run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become + so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four + hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a + horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are + seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the + distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great + numbers. + +FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery). + +988. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a strip +of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to +taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg. + +_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and put +the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs, +onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy, +and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream and +the yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, take +out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish +the fricassee with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cut +into small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must be +boiled first. + +_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ from December to February. + + THE TURKEY.--This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the + principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks, + Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground, + scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and + grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their + crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one + male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the + seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison + them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in + the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England. According + to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it began + about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas + feasts:-- + + "Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, + Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest; + Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear, + As then in the country is counted good cheer." + + The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its + flesh is much esteemed. + + THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.--Among themselves, turkeys are + extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually + both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them + keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a + united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight + than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is + in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading + forth her young to collect their food, though so large and + apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight + protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may + appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than + offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her + young. + +HASHED TURKEY. + +989. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and +salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 +blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom +ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve for +the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an +onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and +water in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain the +gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and port +wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is any +stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour of +the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of +toasted bread. + +_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy. + +_Seasonable_ from December to February. + + HUNTING TURKEYS.--Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one + of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When + they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally + near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was + plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of + the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they + would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they + would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in + their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time, + continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek + shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue, + till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock + them down one after the other. + +ROAST TURKEY. + +990. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs and +black legs, in which case they are young; if the spurs are long, and the +legs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long killed, the +eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, the contrary +will be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many persons +considered superior to those of an immense growth, as they are, +generally speaking, much more tender. They should never be dressed the +same day they are killed; but, in cold weather, should hang at least 8 +days; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found sufficient. +Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe it +thoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve the liver and gizzard, and be +particular not to break the gall-bag, as no washing will remove the +bitter taste it imparts where it once touches. Wash it _inside_ well, +and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth; the _outside_ merely requires +nicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut off the neck close to the +back, but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over; break the leg-bone +close below the knee, draw out the strings from the thighs, and flatten +the breastbone to make it look plump. Have ready a forcemeat made by +recipe No. 417; fill the breast with this, and, if a trussing-needle is +used, sew the neck over to the back; if a needle is not at hand, a +skewer will answer the purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion and +thigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side, and press +the legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones, and +put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Pass a +string across the back of the bird, catch it over the points of the +skewer, tie it in the centre of the back, and be particular that the +turkey is very firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished with +a needle and twine than with skewers. + +[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.] + +_Mode_.--Fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird, +put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance _at first_ +(afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of the +time it is cooking. About 1/4 hour before serving, remove the paper, +dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into the +basting-ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When of a +nice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown gravy and +one of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a favourite addition to roast +turkey; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very much to the +flavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat balls should be +placed round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be stuffed with +sausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is, by many +persons, much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish.--See +coloured plate, A1. + +_Time_.--Small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs., 2 +hours; large turkey, 2-1/2 hours, or longer. + +_Average cost_, from 10s. to 12s., but expensive at Christmas, on +account of the great demand. + +_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from December to February. + + ENGLISH TURKEYS.--These are reared in great numbers in Suffolk, + Norfolk, and several other counties, whence they were wont to be + driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the + improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable + them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them + with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the + end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have + to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge. + There are three varieties of the turkey in this country,--the + black, the white, and the speckled, or copper-coloured. The + black approaches nearest to the original stock, and is esteemed + the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing, + and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age, + however, and is then good for little but stewing. + +ROAST TURKEY POULTS. + +991. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey poult; butter. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a plump bird, and truss it in the +following manner:--After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, and +singed, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing; turn the legs +at the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as a +woodcock should be trussed, _and do not stuff it_. + +_Mode_.--Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at first +place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too much +colour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly with flour, +and baste well; when nicely frothed, send it to table immediately, with +a little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at hand, a few +water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish, or it may be +larded. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 7s. to 8s. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--In full season from June to October. + + THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY.--Human ingenuity subjects almost every + material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of + turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one. The + American Indians convert then into an elegant clothing, and, by + twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp + or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, work it like matting. + This fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine + as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of the + tail; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly + constructed into a parasol by the French. + +TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT. + +(_Miss Acton's Recipe_.) + +992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out +with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through +the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the +fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the +lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of the +breastbone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the socket of the +thigh; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take the +end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it +down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife +carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut +round the next bone, keeping; the edge of the knife close to it, until +the whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in the +same manner; then detach the flesh from the back--and breast-bone +sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings; +proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to +pierce the skin of the second joint: it is usual to leave the pinions +unboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when +it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut +away, the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided, and the +breastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the work +progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl, until it +is completely inside out). After the one remaining bone is removed, draw +the wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl right +side outwards. + +993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it requires a +very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the logs and +wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of +this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled, +or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned and +forced; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst. + + +ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL. (_Miss Acton's Recipe_.) + +994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the +flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until +the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice +has been gained, it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints before +proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole +of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire: +only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. The +bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by +filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the livers +of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue +freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin +slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which will +give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then be +sewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn inside +the body, and the bird being first flattened on a table, may be covered +with sausage-meat, and the various other ingredients we have named, so +placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightly +rolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a +thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and dressed as +follows:--Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, +bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size; add +all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two +bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and +any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand; cover the +whole with good veal broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it very +softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool in +the liquor in which it was stewed; and after it is lifted out, boil down +the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off the +fat, and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the +fowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of +being rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent +to table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be +preferred; or it may be left until the following day, and served +garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear and +well-flavoured: the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down, +added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence. + + +TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES. + +995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, +beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold +this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the recipe +above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any +instructions. + + +TO DRESS WHEATEARS. + +996. INGREDIENTS.--Wheatears; fresh butter. + +_Mode_.--After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them +like larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well with +fresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish them on +fried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from July to October. + + THE WHEATEAR.--The wheatear is an annual visitor of England: it + arrives about the middle of March and leaves in September. The + females come about a fortnight before the males, and continue to + arrive till the middle of May. They are in season from July to + October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in + the neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of + Sussex. They are taken by means of snares and nets, and numbers + of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants. The larger + ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as + much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant + assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about + Eastbourne, the existence of a species of fly which forms their + favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the + adjacent hills. + +[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG.] + + 997. THE GUINEA-PIG.--This common hutch-companion of the rabbit, + although originally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in + England and other European countries. Were it not that they + suffer cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that + it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring, + their numbers would soon become overwhelming. Rats, however, it + is said, carefully avoid them; and for this reason they are + frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for + their young stock against those troublesome vermin. The lower + tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the + guinea-pig: here, as he runs loose, he will devour the waste + food of his more admired companion. Home naturalists assert that + the guinea-pig will breed at two months old, the litter varying + from four to twelve at a time. It is varied in colour,--white, + fawn, and black, and a mixture of the three colours, forming a + tortoiseshell, which is the more generally admired hue. + Occasionally, the white ones have red eyes, like those of the + ferret and the white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is + decidedly unfit for food; they have been tasted, however, we + presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of + science, or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new + pleasure for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats + from intruding within the rabbit-hutch, they are as useless as + they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind + quarters is denied them; and were it not for this fact, and also + for their difference in colour, the Shaksperean locution, "a rat + without a tail," would designate them very properly. + +[Illustration: THE CYGNET.] + + 998. THE CYGNET.--The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly + much esteemed; but it has "fallen from its high estate," and is + now rarely seen upon the table. We are not sure that it is not + still fattened in Norwich for the corporation of that place. + Persons who have property on the river there, take the young + birds, and send them to some one who is employed by the + corporation, to be fed; and for this trouble he is paid, or was + wont to be paid, about half a guinea a bird. It is as the future + bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly + admired; when it has become old enough to grace the waters, then + it is that all admire her, when she with + "Arched neck, + Between her white wings mantling, + proudly rows + Her state with oary feet." + + +POULTRY CARVING. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.] + +999. No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as +do game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the +anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly +the proper point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a +carver's powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour of +those in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dish +may eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the +right or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assist +those who are unacquainted with the "gentle art of carving," and also +those who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing the +rules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked Illustrations of +each dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of the +uninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like a +fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side, as +described at No. 1000; but in cases where the duckling is very small, it +will be as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they will not +then form too large a portion for a single serving. After the legs and +wings are disposed of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved in +the same manner as a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced, +as ducklings are tender, and the joints are easily broken by a little +gentle forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is a +large bird, the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose, +that is, by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by +the lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close to +the wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone. If +more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the +breast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as is +described in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked, +that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of a +fowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, the +thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than +in a chicken: this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carver +should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; and +in order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shown +by the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the "apron," and the spoon +inserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, when a +couple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other without +stuffing.) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that "the +wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are severally the best +portions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, in +trussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone +are here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be +when cut off. + +[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.] + +BOILED FOWL. + +[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.] + +[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL.] + +1000. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry +family to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard occupant, +useless for egg-laying purposes, has, by some unlucky mischance, been +introduced info the kitchen as a "fine young chicken." Skill, however, +and the application of a small amount of strength, combined with a fine +keeping of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. Fixing the +fork firmly in the breast, let the knife be sharply passed along the +line shown from 1 to 2; then cut downwards from that line to fig. 3; and +the wing, it will be found, can be easily withdrawn. The shape of the +wing should be like the accompanying engraving. Let the fork be placed +inside the leg, which should be gently forced away from the body of the +fowl; and the joint, being thus discovered, the carver can readily cut +through it, and the leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, it +should be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut. The +legs and wings on either side having been taken off, the carver should +draw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line 4 to 5: by +this means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought, which, +being lifted up and pressed backward, will immediately come off. The +collar--or neck-bones are the next to consider: these lie on each side +of the merrythought, close under the upper part of the wings; and, in +order to free these from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knife +at their broad end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone, +until the shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off. +There will now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast can +be, without difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the +latter, which will offer little impediment. The side-bones are now to be +taken off; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turned +from the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the top +of the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the end of +the back completely through the bone. If the knife is now turned in the +opposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from the +vertebra. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should be pressed +firmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should be employed +in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork, and thus +the back will be dislocated about its middle. The wings, breast, and +merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl, and are usually +served to the ladies of the company, to whom legs, except as a matter of +paramount necessity, should not be given. Byron gave it as one reason +why he did not like dining with ladies, that they always had the wings +of the fowls, which he himself preferred. We heard a gentleman who, when +he might have had a wing, declare his partiality for a leg, saying that +he had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time, that he had at last +come to like them better than the other more prized parts. If the fowl +is, capon-like, very large, slices maybe carved from its breast in the +same manner as from a turkey's. + + +ROAST FOWL. + +[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.] + +1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut up a +fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless, indeed, a +large family party is assembled, and there are a number of "little +mouths" to be filled, or some other such circumstances prevail. A roast +fowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000; viz., by +cutting along the line from. 1 to 2, and then round the leg between it +and the wing. The markings and detached pieces, as shown in the +engravings under the heading of "Boiled Fowl," supersede the necessity +of our lengthily again describing the operation. It may be added, that +the liver, being considered a delicacy, should be divided, and one half +served with each wing. In the case of a fowl being shifted, it will be +proper to give each guest a portion, unless it be not agreeable to some +one of the party. + +ROAST GOOSE. + +[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.] + +[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE.] + +1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal of +happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a large +party to serve, and the slices off the breast should not suffice to +satisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites, produced, +may be, by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas and Christmas. The +beginning of the task, however, is not in any way difficult. Evenly-cut +slices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast in +the direction of the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice has been +cut, a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron, +passing it round the line, as indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: here the +stuffing is located, and some of this should be served on each plate, +unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of some +one guest. If the carver manages cleverly, he will be able to cut a very +large number of fine slices off the breast, and the more so if he +commences close down by the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridge +of the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken from the breast being +carved, the wings should be cut off; and the same process as described +in carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this instance, only more +dexterity and greater force will most probably be required: the shape of +the leg, when disengaged from the body of the goose, should be like that +shown in the accompanying engraving. It will be necessary, perhaps, in +taking off the leg, to turn the goose on its side, and then, pressing +down the small end of the leg, the knife should be passed under it from +the top quite down to the joint; the leg being now turned back by the +fork, the knife must cut through the joint, loosening the thigh-bone +from its socket. The merrythought, which in a goose is not so large as +might be expected, is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl--by +passing the knife under it, and pressing it backwards towards the neck. +The neck-bones, of which we give a cut, are freed by the same process as +are those of a fowl; and the same may be said of all the other parts of +this bird. The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed; all parts, +however, are good, and full of juicy flavour. + + +PIGEON. + +[Illustration: PIGEON.] + +1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon: the +knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from 1 to +2, entirely through the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal and +similar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a small +wing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving two +guests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on the +breast to send to the third guest. + + +RABBITS. + +[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.] + +1004. In carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each side of +the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by the dotted +line 3 to 4: thus the rabbit will be in three parts. Now let the back be +divided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from 1 to 2; +then let the leg be taken off, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the +shoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our opinion, is the best +plan to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes which are +preferred by some. + +[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.] + +A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to +be boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, as will be seen by the +cut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, and +the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as +those of the boiled animal. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.] + +1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner, +with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmas +dinner without its turkey; and we can hardly imagine an object of +greater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familias +carving, at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity, his own +fat turkey, and carving it well. The only art consists, as in the +carving of a goose, in getting from the breast as many fine slices as +possible; and all must have remarked the very great difference in the +large number of people whom a good carver will find slices for, and the +comparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we have +stated in both the carving of a duck and goose, the carver should +commence cutting slices close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceed +upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone: this is not the usual plan, +but, in practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only part +which is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut +off and eaten at table: they are usually removed to the kitchen, where +they are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seems +to have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table,--we mean +devilled: served in this way, they are especially liked and relished. + +A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted. + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXII. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME. + +1006. THE COMMON LAW OF ENGLAND has a maxim, that goods, in which no +person can claim any property, belong, by his or her prerogative, to the +king or queen. Accordingly, those animals, those _ferae naturae_, which +come under the denomination of game, are, in our laws, styled his or her +majesty's, and may therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the +sovereign to another; in consequence of which another may prescribe to +possess the same within a certain precinct or lordship. From this +circumstance arose the right of lords of manors or others to the game +within their respective liberties; and to protect these species of +animals, the game laws were originated, and still remain in force. There +are innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties on persons who +may illegally kill game, and some of them are very severe; but they +cannot be said to answer their end, nor can it be expected that they +ever will, whilst there are so many persons of great wealth who have not +otherwise the means of procuring game, except by purchase, and who will +have it. These must necessarily encourage poaching, which, to a very +large extent, must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to their +intended effects upon the rustic population. + +1007. THE OBJECT OF THESE LAWS, however, is not wholly confined to the +restraining of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified or privileged +persons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hours +allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise till one hour +after sunset; whilst the time of killing certain species is also +restricted to certain seasons. For example, the season for +bustard-shooting is from December 1 to March 1; for grouse, or red +grouse, from August 12 to December 10; heath-fowl, or black-game, from +August 20 to December 20; partridges from September 1 to February 12; +pheasants from October 1 to February 1; widgeons, wild ducks, wild +geese, wild fowls, at any time but in June, July, August, and September. +Hares may be killed at any time of the year, under certain restrictions +defined by an act of parliament of the 10th of George III. + +1008. THE EXERCISE OR DIVERSION OF PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS OF GAME +is called hunting, which, to this day, is followed in the field and the +forest, with gun and greyhound. Birds, on the contrary, are not hunted, +but shot in the air, or taken with nets and other devices, which is +called fowling; or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey, which is +called hawking, a species of sport now fallen almost entirely into +desuetude in England, although, in some parts, showing signs of being +revived. + + +1009. IN PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS, such as deer, boars, and hares, +properly termed hunting, mankind were, from the earliest ages, engaged. +It was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human support +before the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is an +employment, however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as a +certain fearlessness of character, combined with the power of +considerable physical endurance. Without these, success could not be +very great; but, at best, the occupation is usually accompanied with +rude and turbulent habits; and, when combined with these, it constitutes +what is termed the savage state of man. As culture advances, and as the +soil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenance +of the tamer or more domesticated animals, the range of the huntsman is +proportionably limited; so that when a country has attained to a high +state of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of +the opulent. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat +different; for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with +one of its most valuable materials of commerce. + + +1010. THE THEMES WHICH FORM THE MINSTRELSY OF THE EARLIEST AGES, either +relate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field. +Even the sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter +before the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, +became a skilful bow-man; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid +to join in combat with the lion or the bear. The Greek mythology teems +with hunting exploits. Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, the +Erymanthean boar, and the hydra of Lerna; Diana descends to the earth, +and pursues the stag; whilst Aesculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses, and +Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, sage as he was, +advises young men to apply themselves early to it; and Plato finds in it +something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for the +path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent +votaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and the +ancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded their shores. + +1011. ALTHOUGH THE ANCIENT BRITONS FOLLOWED HUNTING, however, they did +not confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They bred cattle and +tilled the ground, and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary state +of a pastoral and agricultural life; but, in every social change, the +sports of the field maintained their place. After the expulsion of the +Danes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, these +were still followed: even Edward the Confessor, who would join in no +other secular amusements, took the greatest delight, says William of +Malmesbury, "to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, and to +cheer them with his voice." + +1012. NOR WAS EDWARD the only English sovereign who delighted in the +pleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons who +succeeded him, were passionately fond of the sport, and greatly +circumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to the +killing of game. The privilege of hunting in the royal forests was +confined to the king and his favourites; and in order that these +umbrageous retreats might be made more extensive, whole villages were +depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and every means +adopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space, in accordance +with the royal pleasure, for the beasts of the chase. King John was +likewise especially attached to the sports of the field; whilst Edward +III. was so enamoured of the exercise, that even during his absence at +the wars in France, he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as +many hare-hounds, and every day amused himself either with hunting or +hawking. Great in wisdom as the Scotch Solomon, James I., conceited +himself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting, +hawking, and shooting. Yea, it is oven asserted that his precious time +was divided between hunting, the bottle, and his standish: to the first +he gave his fair weather, to the second his dull, and to the third his +cloudy. From his days down to the present, the sports of the field have +continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promotion of +health, but for helping to form that manliness of character which enters +so largely into the composition of the sons of the British soil. That it +largely helps to do this there can be no doubt. The late duke of +Grafton, when hunting, was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch. A +young curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, "Lie still, my +lord!" leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of +feeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke; but not so. +On his being helped up by his attendant, he said, "That man shall have +the first good living that falls to my disposal: had he stopped to have +given me his sympathy, I never would have given him anything." Such was +the manly sentiment of the duke, who delighted in the exemplification of +a spirit similarly ardent as his own in the sport, and above the +baseness of an assumed sorrow. + +1013. THAT HUNTING HAS IN MANY INSTANCES BEEN CARRIED TO AN EXCESS is +well known, and the match given by the Prince Esterhazy, regent of +Hungary, on the signing of the treaty of peace with France, is not the +least extraordinary upon record. On that occasion, there were killed 160 +deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares, and 80 foxes: this was the achievement +of one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear, it is +greatly inferior to that made by the contemporary king of Naples on a +hunting expedition. That sovereign had a larger extent of ground at his +command, and a longer period for the exercise of his talents; +consequently, his sport, if it can so be called, was proportionably +greater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria, +Bohemia, and Moravia; when he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer, +1,145 does, 1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers, +16,354 hares, and 354 foxes. In birds, during the same expedition, he +killed 15,350 pheasants and 12,335 partridges. Such an amount of +destruction can hardly be called sport; it resembles more the +indiscriminate slaughter of a battle-field, where the scientific engines +of civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages. + +1014. DEER AND HARES may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals now +hunted in Britain for the table; and even those are not followed with +the same ardour as they were wont to be. Still, there is no country in +the world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such an +extent as in Great Britain, and where the pleasures of the chase are so +well understood, and conducted on such purely scientific principles. The +Fox, of all "the beasts of the field," is now considered to afford the +best sport. For this, it is infinitely superior to the stag; for the +real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for and +found like other game which are pursued with hounds. In the case of +finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured, in this manner, +great sport is frequently obtained; but this is now rarely to be met +with in Britain. In reference to hare-hunting, it is much followed in +many parts of this and the sister island; but, by the true foxhunter, it +is considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and old men. +Although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase, however, +it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding which +the other requires. + + +1015. THE ART OF TAKING OR KILLING BIRDS is called "fowling," and is +either practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for +a livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practised +as an amusement, it principally consists of killing them with a light +firearm called a "fowling-piece," and the sport is secured to those who +pursue it by the game laws. The other means by which birds are taken, +consist in imitating their voices, or leading them, by other artifices, +into situations where they become entrapped by nets, birdlime, or +otherwise. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe or call is the +most common means employed; and this is done during the months of +September and October. We will here briefly give a description of the +_modus operandi_ pursued in this sport. A thin wood is usually the spot +chosen, and, under a tree at a little distance from the others, a cabin +is erected, and there are only such branches left on the tree as are +necessary for the placing of the birdlime, and which are covered with +it. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches, also +covered with birdlime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, the +birdcatcher places himself in the cabin, and, at sunrise and sunset, +imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance. +Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, immediately different +kinds of birds will flock together at the cry of their common enemy, +when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground, their +wings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact with +the birdlime. The cries of those which are thus situated now attract +others, and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time. If +owls were themselves desired to be taken, it is only during the night +that this can be done, by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse. Larks, +other birds, and water-fowl, are sometimes taken by nets; but to +describe fully the manner in which this is done, would here occupy too +much space. + +1016. FEATHERED GAME HAVE FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL given gratification to +the palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey, and some other +species, Moses permitted his people to eat them; and the Egyptians made +offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancient +Greeks commenced their repasts with little roasted birds; and feathered +game, amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed, +several of the ancient _gourmands_ of the "imperial city" were so fond +of game, that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and +pheasants. "Some modern nations, the French among others," says Monsieur +Soyer, "formerly ate the heron, crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and +bittern. The first three especially were highly esteemed; and +Laillevant, cook of Charles VII., teaches us how to prepare these +meagre, tough birds. Belon says, that in spite of its revolting taste +when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however, among the delicious +treats of the French. This writer also asserts, that a falcon or a +vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating; and that if one +of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, the +falconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron a royal viand." + +1017. THE HERON WAS HUNTED BY THE HAWK, and the sport of hawking is +usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be +practised in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its +being a pastime to generally followed by the nobility, not in Great +Britain only, but likewise on the continent. In former times, persons of +high rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks: +the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one country +to another, and sometimes even took them to battle with them, and would +not part with them when taken prisoners, even to obtain their own +liberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ensigns of nobility, and no +action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than that of +giving up his hawk. We have already alluded to the hunting propensities +of our own Edward III., and we may also allude to his being equally +addicted to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded +France, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had charge +of his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he either +hunted, or went to the river for the purpose of hawking. In the great +and powerful, the pursuit of game as a sport is allowable, but in those +who have to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow, it is to be +condemned. In Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy" we find a humorous story, +told by Poggius, the Florentine, who reprobates this folly in such +persons. It is this. A physician of Milan, that cured madmen, had a pit +of water in his house, in which he kept his patients, some up to the +knees, some to the girdle, some to the chin, _pro modo insaniae_, as +they were more or less affected. One of them by chance, that was well +recovered, stood in the door, and seeing a gallant pass by with a hawk +on his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels after him, would needs know +to what use all this preparation served. He made answer, To kill certain +fowl. The patient demanded again, what his fowl might be worth which he +killed in a year? He replied, Five or ten crowns; and when he urged him +further, what his dogs, horse, and hawks stood him in, he told him four +hundred crowns. With that the patient bade him begone, as he loved his +life and welfare; "for if our master come and find thee here, he will +put thee in the pit, amongst the madmen, up to the chin." Thus reproving +the madness of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports, +to the neglect of their business and necessary affairs. + +1018. AS THE INEVITABLE RESULT OF SOCIAL PROGRESS is, at least to limit, +if not entirely to suppress, such sports as we have here been treating +of, much of the romance of country life has passed away. This is more +especially the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middle +of the fourth century, although, lately, some attempts have been rather +successfully made to institute a revival of the "gentle art" of hawking. +Julius Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find, +the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and the art of teaching +one species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of +these functionaries has now, however, all but ceased. New and nobler +efforts characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their +civilization, and the sports of the field have, to a large extent, been +superseded by other exercises, it may be less healthful and +invigorating, but certainly more elegant, intellectual, and humanizing. + +[Illustration] + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + + +ROAST BLACK-COCK. + +1019. INGREDIENTS.--Black-cock, butter, toast. + +[Illustration: ROAST BLACK-COCK.] + +_Mode_.--Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough and +tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insides +and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut off +the heads, and truss them, the same as a roast fowl, cutting off the +toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Trussing them with the head on, +as shown in the engraving, is still practised by many cooks, but the +former method is now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire, +well baste them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, and +a good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the +breast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. They +should be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments as +with the plainly-roasted birds. + +_Time_.--45 to 50 minutes. + +_Average cost_, from 5s. to 6s. the brace; but seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--2 or 3 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of August to the end of December. + +[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK.] + + THE BLACK-COCK, HEATH-COCK, MOOR-FOWL, OR HEATH-POULT.--This + bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds, and the hen about + two. It is at present confined to the more northern parts of + Britain, culture and extending population having united in + driving it into more desolate regions, except, perhaps, in a few + of the more wild and less-frequented portions of England. It may + still be found in the New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and + Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among the hills of Somersetshire, + contiguous to the latter. It may also be found in Staffordshire, + in North Wales, and again in the north of England; but nowhere + so plentiful as in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The + males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are + about half-grown, when the black feathers begin to appear, first + about the sides and breast. Their food consists of the tops of + birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at + which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the + bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of + these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in + point of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into + London, where they are vended in the shops; but the flavour of + their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird. + +HASHED WILD DUCK. + +1020. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good +brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt, +cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or Seville +orange-juice. + +_Mode_.--Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them into a +stewpan, with all the above ingredients; let them get gradually hot by +the side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents; when on the +point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted +bread. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + + +RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK. + +1021. INGREDIENTS.--2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1 +glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2 +lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day +will answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs, +wings, and breasts until wanted; put the trimmings into a stewpan with +the shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about 1/2 hour, and +strain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in +a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; give it one +boil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay +in the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm through, but do +not allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The gravy should not be +too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville +orange is a great improvement to this dish. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to make the gravy; 1/4 hour for the duck +gradually to warm through. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + + +ROAST WILD DUCK. + +1022. INGREDIENTS.--Wild duck, flour, butter. + +[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.] + +_Mode_.--Carefully pluck and draw them; Cut off the heads close to the +necks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut off the +feet; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each +side of the breast; others truss them as shown in our Illustration. +Roast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put down, +let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep the gravy +in); afterwards baste plentifully with butter, and a few minutes before +serving dredge them lightly with flour; baste well, and send them to +table nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds will +lose their flavour. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange +gravy, No. 488; and send to table with them a cut lemon. To take off the +fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes +with hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt; then +take away the pan, and baste with butter.--See coloured plate, G1. + +_Time_.--When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes; well done, 25 to 35 +minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4s. to 5s. the couple. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + +[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK.] + + THE WILD DUCK.--The male of the wild dock is called a mallard; + and the young ones are called flappers. The time to try to find + a brood of these is about the month of July, among the rushes of + the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream, + where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be taken as a certainty + that its brood is not far off. When once found, flappers are + easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their + wings are fledged. Consequently, the sport is more like hunting + water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing, + they assume the name of wild ducks, and about the month of + August repair to the corn-fields, where they remain until they + are disturbed by the harvest-people. They then frequent the + rivers pretty early in the evening, and give excellent sport to + those who have patience to wait for them. In order to know a + wild duck, it is necessary only to look at the claws, which + should be black. + +HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery). + +1023. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3 +cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste, +thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of +lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock. + +_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the best +pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the +onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these for +about an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour; +add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, and +let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow it +to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering, +serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/4 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Note_.--Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the +flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c.; +but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of game +should really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c., +are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the +dish should possess. + + +GROUSE PIE. + +1024. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of +rump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat +pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, if +small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt, +cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puff +paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4 +to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings +will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, a +bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after the +pie is baked. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s. +9d. + +_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. + + +ROAST GROUSE. + +[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.] + +1025. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread. + +_Mode_.--Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them; +wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the +head, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to truss +them with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered the +most approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep them +well basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on a +buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter +poured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy.--See coloured plate, +L1. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 2s. to 2s. 6d. the brace; but seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. + +[Illustration: RED GROUSE.] + + GROUSE.--These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse, + red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further + distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as + large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length, + and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is + considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her + feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species + is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very + rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia, + Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In + these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and + the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of + the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or + the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs + only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than + the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of + colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high + situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other + northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of + Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and + fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer, + frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The + red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces, + and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the + northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and + the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to + Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France, + and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse, + white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red + grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports + itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of + the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland. + In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is + also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of + Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and + are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are + easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of + the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but + not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured, + and somewhat flavoured like the hare. + +GROUSE SALAD. + +(_Soyer's Recipe_.) + +1026. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the +sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, +the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4 +tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill of +cream. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cut +a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in +the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat +border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is +to be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the +yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre a +fresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted the +grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare +the sauce as follows:--Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, the +yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil and +vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice or +in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, which +lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the +salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and +the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. +The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on +the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed +between, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round. +Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains of +cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner, +and will make a very delicate dish. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. + +[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.] + + THE CAPERCALZIE.--This bird was to be met with formerly both in + Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives + separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its + manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except + that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the + tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in + the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found + abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the + Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of + Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it + into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we + should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its + sustenance. + + GROUSE.--Under this general term are included several species of + game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The + black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so + common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red, + however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the + mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It + feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst + them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The + woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird + tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller + than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but + it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though + it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the + Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is + extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a + plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands, + and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by + Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being + esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation, + being considered as little different from common grouse. + +ROAST HARE. + +1027. INGREDIENTS.--Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a young hare; which may be known by its +smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much +spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if +properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to +hang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe +the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger, +to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and +which also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, and +soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it lie +in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in several +waters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill the +belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the +body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between +the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the +ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it +above the back. + +[Illustration: ROAST HARE.] + +_Mode_.--The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is +first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the +inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards +with butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as +to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost +roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely +frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a little +gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must also +not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast +hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk +and butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated, +must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybe +parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be +used unless quite fresh.--See coloured plate, E1. + +_Time_.--A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2 +hours. + +_Average cost_, from 4s. to 6s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + + +THE HARE.--This little animal is found generally distributed over +Europe, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme +timidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as a +means of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and is +supplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear with +great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed so +prominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. It +lives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry, +notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that of +the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Its +general time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if not +disturbed, it adheres closely to its _form_. + +[Illustration: THE HARE.] + +POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish). + +1028. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of +savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2 +onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and put +it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add the +remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender, +and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough, +take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with the bacon_, in a +mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not be +sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but +be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Press +the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in a +dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved for +hashes, soups, &c. &c. + +_Time_.--About 21/2 hours to stew the hare. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + + +BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish). + +1029. INGREDIENTS.--The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and +salt to taste, a little butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highly +with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5 +minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter, +and send to table very quickly. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + + +HASHED HARE. + +1030. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of pounded +mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of +savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter and +flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones, +and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace, +allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and +strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and +ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be +left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when it +has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with +sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + + +JUGGED HARE. + +(_Very Good_.) + +1031. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. of butter, +1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pint +of port wine. + +_Mode_.--Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge +them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint of +gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a +little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an +onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good +seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, put +it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew until +the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. When +nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made by +recipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few +minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly. + +_Time_,--3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 7s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + + +II. + +(_A Quicker and more Economical Way_.) + +1032. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck +with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, a +strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of +mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine. + +_Mode._--Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large), +and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them into +a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and +lemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove +all the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in +about 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the +pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup +and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a +sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be +added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may be +stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for +table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it. + +_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. + +_Note_.--Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the +hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of +boiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste. + + +ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE. + +1033. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs. + +[Illustration: LANDRAILS.] + +_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp +cloths, and truss them in the following manner:--Bring the head round +under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through +them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clear +fire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a +tureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table +with them. + +_Time_.--12 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_,--Seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow--1 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from August 12th to the middle of September. + +[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.] + + THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.--This bird is migratory in its + habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long + aerial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward + out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely + heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down. + When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it + runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the + swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes + its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that + is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same + places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes + long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until + the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it + constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage, + and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every + direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this + island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in + search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large + numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and, + whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in + the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is + so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before + its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight + ounces, and is then most delicious eating. + +TO DRESS A LEVERET. + +1034. INGREDIENTS.--2 leverets, butter, flour. + +_Mode_.--Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but +they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keep +them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes before +serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Serve +with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly with +them. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 4s. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from May to August, but cheapest in July and August. + + +BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish). + +1035. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small +piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce. + +_Mode_.--Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the +inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne, +broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a +small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown +gravy or mushroom sauce. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. + + +PARTRIDGE PIE. + +1036. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1 +teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4 +lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste. + +_Mode_.--Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice of +ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe the +partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them inside +with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place +them in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dish +with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of an +egg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. + + +Note.--Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; they +will then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms +should always be added. + + +POTTED PARTRIDGE. + +1037. INGREDIENTS.--Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice +white pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste. + +_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a damp +cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mix +together, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birds +as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them, +and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this, +and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, then +cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a large +potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a +cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer for +basting, or for paste for meat pies.--See coloured plate, D1. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. + + +SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES. + +1038. INGREDIENTS.--3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham, +1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole +peppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump +of sugar. + +_Mode_.--After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather +underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cut +them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts; +put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is +ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the +carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into +a stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, add +the bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour. +Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; put +it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and +a small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of the +fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with +croutons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in +this way, although not so good as when the birds are in the first +instance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for +pheasants, moor-game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the +joints. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. + +_Sufficient_.--2 or 3 partridges for an entree. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. + + +ROAST PARTRIDGE. + +1039. INGREDIENTS.--Partridge; butter. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose young birds, with dark-coloured bills +and yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be no +flavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should be +kept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended, +as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to others +disgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or without the head, +the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable. Pluck, draw, +and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut off the head, +leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back; bring the legs close +to the breast, between it and the side-bones, and pass a skewer through +the pinions and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on, +it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer. + +[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE.] + +_Mode_.--When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before a +nice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving, +flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce, +and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should be +poured over the bird.--See coloured plate, D1. + +_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, is 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. + +[Illustration: PARTRIDGES.] + + THE PARTRIDGE.--This bird is to be found in nearly all the + temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the + Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate, + whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and + is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this + bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the + preservation of its young. "I have seen it often," says a very + celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once + in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's + solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young + pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the + old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before + the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable + distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but + not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the + place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the + old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled + just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling + about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved + her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been + hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up + at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might + to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if + old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by + their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills. + +PHEASANT CUTLETS. + +1040. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne and +salt to taste, brown gravy. + +_Mode_.--Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few days; +pluck, draw, and wipe them inside; cut them into joints; remove the +bones from the best of these; and the backbones, trimmings, &c., put +into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, &c., +to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape, egg and +bread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire, pile them high in the +dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be +strained, flavoured, and thickened. One of the small bones should be +stuck on the point of each cutlet. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 entrees. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. + + +ROAST PHEASANT. + +1041. INGREDIENTS.--Pheasant, flour, butter. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Old pheasants may be known by the length and +sharpness of their spurs; in young ones they are short and blunt. The +cock bird is generally reckoned the best, except when the hen is with +egg. They should hang some time before they are dressed, as, if they are +cooked fresh, the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. After the +bird is plucked and drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and truss +it in the same manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as +shown in the engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on to +the point of the skewer. + +[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.] + +_Mode_.--Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flour +and froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should be +poured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of the +pheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an +ornament; but the fashion is not much to be commended.--See coloured +plate, F1. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 1 hour, according to the size. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each. _Sufficient_,--1 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. + +[Illustration: THE PHEASANT.] + + THE PHEASANT.--This beautiful bird is said to have been + discovered by the Argonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near + Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is common, + however, in almost all the southern parts of the European + continent, and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most + woody counties of England. It is very common in France; indeed, + so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers. Although + it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor + is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state. Mr. + Ude says--"It is not often that pheasants are met with + possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long + keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept + as long as they are in other countries. The hens, in general, + are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. + They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from + the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have + been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour, + if you keep it long enough; if not, it is not much different + from that of a common fowl or hen." + +BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance. + +1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked (_see_ No. +1041), it should be plucked, and not before. The bird should then be +stuffed in the following manner:--Take two snipes, and draw them, +putting the bodies on one plate, and the livers, &c., on another. Take +off the flesh, and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few +truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully +with this. Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably than the bird, and +cover it with the liver, &c., and a few truffles: an anchovy and a +little fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the bread, &c., +into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on the +preparation, and surround it with Florida oranges. + +Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner; for a pheasant served +in this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is a +very good bird; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the +truffle and snipe, it becomes thrice better. + + +BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish). + +1043. INGREDIENTS.--1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread crumbs, +salt and cayenne to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the legs off at the first joint, and the remainder of the +bird into neat pieces; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard, and +when browned on both sides, and about half done, take them out and drain +them; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs +with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil +them over a moderate fire for about 10 minutes, or rather longer, and +serve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which a +few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. + + THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.--Things edible have + their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus, + asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young. + Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity: + let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must + except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals + whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until + decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention + particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be + eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then + has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished, + and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper + length of time,--and this can be ascertained by a slight smell + and change of colour,--then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish, + occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and + venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a + pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of + gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when + a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook + knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a + turn or two more. + +TO DRESS PLOVERS. + +1044. INGREDIENTS.--3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread. + +_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as +that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,--the grey, green, and +bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if +very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for +anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into +a ragout, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended. + +_Mode_.--Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a +damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing, +put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the +dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge them +lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be +nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the _trail_ should +be equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and send +some to table in a tureen. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to 1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. the brace, if plentiful. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--In perfection from the beginning of September to the end +of January. + + THE PLOVER.--There are two species of this bird, the grey and + the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat + less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those + birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to + seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the + loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be + seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the + winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is + sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very + cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game + flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it + is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey, + but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed + as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They + arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and + summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by + getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire + to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country + abounds. + +[Illustration: THE PLOVER.] + +TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN. + +1045. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender, are +exceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible, to be +good. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as grouse, No. +1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth them nicely, +and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce, +when liked, may be sent to table with them, and fried bread crumbs +substituted for the toasted bread. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the beginning of February to the end of April. + + THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE.--This bird is nearly the same + size as red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, where it + braves the severest weather, and is found in most parts of + Europe, as well as in Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear in + such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently + taken at once in a net. As they are as tame as chickens, this is + done without difficulty. Buffon says that the Ptarmigan avoids + the solar heat, and prefers the frosts of the summits of the + mountains; for, as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains, + it ascends till it gains the top, where it makes a hole, and + burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on + the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a + bitter, but not altogether an unpalatable taste. It is + dark-coloured, and has something of the flavour of the hare, and + is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen. + +[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN.] + +TO DRESS QUAILS. + +1046. INGREDIENTS.--Quails, butter, toast. + +_Mode_.--These birds keep good several days, and should be roasted +without drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks, No. 1062; +roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve on +toast. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_ 2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from October to December. + +[Illustration: THE QUAIL.] + + THE QUAIL.--Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe, + Asia, and Africa. Being birds of passage, they are seen in + immense flocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to + Africa, in the autumn, and returning again in the spring, + frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of + the Archipelago, which, with their vast numbers, they almost + completely cover. On the western coasts of the kingdom of + Naples, they have appeared in such prodigious numbers, that, + within the compass of four or five miles, as many as a hundred + thousand have been taken in a day. "From these circumstances," + says a writer on natural history, "it appears highly probable + that the quails which supplied the Israelites with food during + their journey through the wilderness, were sent thither, on + their passage to the north, by a wind from the south-west, + sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red + Sea." In England they are not very numerous, although they breed + in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year, + changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country + for the seacoast. + +TO DRESS SNIPES. + +1047. INGREDIENTS.--Snipes, butter, flour, toast. + +_Mode_.--These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn. +Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the head under the +wing, having previously skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at the +first joint, press the feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through +these and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack or +spit, and roast before a clear fire for about 1/4 hour. Put some pieces +of buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour and +froth the birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on +them, and pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. They +should be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be +worth eating.--See coloured plate M1. + +[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.] + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. the brace. + +_Sufficient_,--4 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + +_Note_.--Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner. + +[Illustration: THE SNIPE.] + + THE SNIPE.--This is a migratory bird, and is generally + distributed over Europe. It is found in most parts of England, + in the high as well as the low lands, depending much on the + weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to the hills, but at + other times frequents marshes, where it can penetrate the earth + with its bill, hunting for worms, which form its principal food. + In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and they + are fattest in frosty weather. In the breeding season the snipe + changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter. + The male will keep on wing for an hour together, mounting like a + lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating + sound, not unlike that made by an old goat, it will descend with + great velocity, especially if the female be sitting in her nest, + from which it will not wander far. + +ROAST TEAL. + +1048. INGREDIENTS.--Teal, butter, a little flour. + +_Mode_.--Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they are +generally better flavoured; truss them in the same manner as wild duck, +No. 1022; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well basted. +Serve with brown or orange gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. The +remains of teal make excellent hash. + +_Time_.--From 9 to 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from October to February. + + +ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON. + +1049. INGREDIENTS.--Venison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a little +flour. + +_Mode_.--Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the +cleft of the hoof smooth and close; the greater quantity of fat there +is, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object to +venison when it has too much _haut gout_, ascertain how long it has been +kept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone; when +this is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care and +attention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is very +mild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the +least damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as a +preventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in warm +water, and _dry_ it _well_ with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper, +put it over the fat, lay a coarse paste, about 1/2 inch in thickness, +over this, and then a sheet or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmly +on to the haunch with twine, and put the joint down to a strong close +fire; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and string +from burning, and continue this operation, without intermission, the +whole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is done, +carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour, and +baste well with _butter_ until it is nicely frothed, and of a nice +pale-brown colour; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper, +and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, and +currant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve that +also in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is to +preserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expense +is not objected to; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensed +with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead: it will not +require so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hot +plates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes: to be thoroughly +enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck +and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner. + +[Illustration: ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.] + +_Time_.--A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours; +haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without the +paste. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 18 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Buck venison in greatest perfection from June to +Michaelmas; doe venison from November to the end of January. + + THE DEER.--This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild + and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other + and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use + their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet. + Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst + the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the + kinds, under the name of "venison," is considered very + delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms + by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus + the stag is called, the first year, a _calf_, or _hind-calf_; + the second, a _knobber_; the third, a _brock_; the fourth, a + _staggard_; the fifth, a _stag_; and the sixth, a _hart_. The + female is, the first year, called a _calf_; the second, a + _hearse_; and the third, a _hind_. In Britain, the stag has + become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of + Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen, + ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the + stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal + chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns, + assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer + into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their + chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means + for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of + concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such + assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a + deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described. + + VENISON.--This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of + deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of + deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in + several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case + with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large + proportion of his wealth. There-- + + "The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play, + And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray, + Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly, + And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky." + + In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the + goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its + skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from + its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes + food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, + and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is + supposed to have been originally introduced into this country + from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in + some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in + the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks + of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the + not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's + larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later + period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the + "ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common + player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived. + +HASHED VENISON. + +1050. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of roast venison, its own or mutton +gravy, thickening of butter and flour. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is +sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is +preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and +trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them +stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour and +butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add the +strained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, when +a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by the +side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do not +allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly to +table with it. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from +November to the end of January. + +_Note_.--A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may +be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used +very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison. + +[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE).] + + THE FALLOW-DEER.--This is the domestic or park deer; and no two + animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag + and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each + other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or + intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an + intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been + transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where + stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many + things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the + stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one + fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble + the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference + between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is + said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the + fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller + than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner + completed. + +STEWED VENISON. + +1051. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2 +glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak +stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of +whole allspice. + +_Mode_.--Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the +meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat, +which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine; +sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up, +and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and +the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black +pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very +gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and +dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with +red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best +mode of cooking it. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from +November to the end of January. + +[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.] + + THE ROEBUCK.--This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and + is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as + well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and + stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of + about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to + eight inches. + +[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.] + + THE STAG.--The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and + the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer, + and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead + of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the + first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is + short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next + year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they + have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the + sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for + sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year, + the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they + may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is + then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the + thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their + variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every + year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes + place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new + ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of + the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or + skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short + time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of + tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth + the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion + as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed. + The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until + the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually + shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the + latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are + between five and six years old shed them about the middle or + latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April; + and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of + May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to + variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the + horns.--The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being + hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young, + and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become + a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of + the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon, + are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the + stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has + young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is + transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most + resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before + the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose + life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own. + +[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).] + + THE NEW VENISON.--The deer population of our splendid English + parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the + fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an + acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came + to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park + in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of + deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and + rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole + world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant, + valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their + availability to gastronomic purposes. + + During the last four or live years a few spirited English + noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in + their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it + may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a + course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a + new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of + the choicest character. + + A practical solution of this interesting question was made by + Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On + that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the + species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was + killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He + weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with + bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his + paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap, + and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode + majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and + their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of + the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the + picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their + home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with + roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture + of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more + than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen + say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his + flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an + enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true + short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely + superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and + delicate. It was tried in every fashion,--braised brisket, + roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet saute, boiled aitchbone, + &c.,--and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of + surpassing value had been added to the products of the English + park. + + When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is + pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian + wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small + Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in + breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first + acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the + years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in + 1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of + elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the + animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from + the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly + reproduced, without the loss of a single calf. + +ROAST WIDGEON. + +1052. INGREDIENTS.--Widgeons, a little flour, butter. + +_Mode_.--These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022, +but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a +brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when +browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve +with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from October to February. + +[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK.] + +ROAST WOODCOCK. + +1053. INGREDIENTS.--Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast. + +_Mode_.--Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures, +considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss +them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the +thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing. +Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails, +allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from +15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them +nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them, +and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen. +These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be +kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit +for table.--See coloured plate, I 1. + +_Time_.---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done, +allow an extra 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ from November to February. + +[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.] + + THE WOODCOCK.--This bird being migratory in its habits, has, + consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as + the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It + breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its + appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with + that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the + coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been + accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its + appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it + appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most + gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave + of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern + and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy + in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few + weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with + such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found + as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season, + in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the + partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far + south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they + can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other + side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the + countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains + of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of + the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is + eagerly sought after by the sportsman. + + +GAME CARVING. + + +BLACKCOCK. + +[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.] + +1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the +guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of +such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears +to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes, +than larger and more robust _pieces de resistance_. As described at +recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head +on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the +head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve +it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and +deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted +line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and +the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and +following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000, +reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most +honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird. + +WILD DUCK. + +[Illustration: WILD DUCK.] + +1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a +dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes +are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of +each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of +wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and +slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from +1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the +knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described +for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000. + + +ROAST HARE. + +[Illustration: ROAST HARE.] + +1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary +dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and +grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners a la Russe_ may possibly, +erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which +was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the +youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see +the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for +all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not +the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare, +having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first +served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the +direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed +of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line +indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by +passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be +divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2, +taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the +back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any +bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs +and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where +men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, +especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving +is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered +in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should +accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry, +will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also +served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the +brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs. + + +PARTRIDGES. + +[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.] + +1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird. +The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the +top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus +dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same +manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into +three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from +the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making +2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most +elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and +then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to +2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce +should be served to each guest. + + +GROUSE. + +[Illustration] + +1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving +partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and +this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured. + + +PHEASANT. + +[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.] + +1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it +in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces. +If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then +let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in +carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the +neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the +same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those +which are most considered in a fowl. + + +SNIPE. + +[Illustration: SNIPE.] + +1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a +gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite +through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and +like portions, and put only one half on the plate. + + +HAUNCH OF VENISON. + +[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON.] + +1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise +his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is +but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made +completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the +gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick, +should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that +end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that +he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some +epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to +others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut +above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest +with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best +carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses +much of its charm. + +WOODCOCK. + +[Illustration: WOODCOCK.] + +1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly +into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in +carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of +a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This +bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection +with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings +whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany +each plate. + + +LANDRAIL. + +1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its +being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.--See No. 1060. + + +PTARMIGAN. + +1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same +manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in +Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058. + + +QUAILS. + +1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly +carved.--See No. 1062. + + +PLOVERS. + +1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and +served in the same way as those birds.--See No. 1055. + + +TEAL. + +1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be +treated, in carving, in the same style. + + +WIDGEON. + +1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to +Wild Duck, at No. 1055. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXIV. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. + + "Strange there should be found + Who, self-imprison'd in their proud saloons, + Renounce the odours of the open field + For the unscented fictions of the loom; + Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes, + Prefer to the performance of a God, + Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand! + Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art, + But Nature's works far lovelier."--COWPER. + +1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS," says Hogg, in his Natural +History of the Vegetable Kingdom, "may be aptly compared to the primary +colours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and intimately +blended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where the +other begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye would +easily distinguish the one from the other; but when the two are blended, +and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow +begins. And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powers +of observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants, +if there were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in the +one, and trees, shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be able +with facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms; but as we +descend the scale of each, and arrive at the lowest forms of animals and +plants, we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure, sometimes a +mere cell, whose organization, modes of development and reproduction, +are so anomalous, and partake so much of the character of both, that we +cannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals." + +1070. WHILST IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE where the animal begins and +the vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of the +singularities by which numbers of plants are characterized. This, +however, can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when we +recollect that, so far as it is at present known, the vegetable kingdom +is composed of upwards of 92,000 species of plants. Of this amazing +number the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiest +kinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very creators of the +soil: they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions, many of them +commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the +barest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be +supplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they have +exhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them, +they pass into a state of decay, and become changed into a very fine +mould, which, in the active spontaneity of nature, immediately begins to +produce other species, which in their turn become food for various +mosses, and also rot. This process of growth and decay, being, from time +to time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for the +maintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and so increase +the soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even the +weight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, must +not be considered as the only end of the lichen; different kinds of it +minister to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes; thus the +_lichen rocella_ is used to communicate to silk and wool, various shades +of purple and crimson, which greatly enhance the value of these +materials. This species is chiefly imported from the Canary Islands, +and, when scarce, as an article of commerce has brought as much as L1000 +per ton. + +1071. IN THE VICINITY OF LICHENS, THE MUSCI, OR MOSSES, are generally to +be found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are, +affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables, +and, by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves other +plants from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we find +them enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see them +abounding in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to the +living, and still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches of +trees. In marshy places they also abound, and become the medium of their +conversion into fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner in +which peat-mosses are formed: on the surface of these we find them in a +state of great life and vigour; immediately below we discover them, more +or less, in a state of decomposition; and, still deeper, we find their +stems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat. Thus are +extensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a state of +cultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man. + +1072. WHEN NATURE HAS FOUND A SOIL, her next care is to perfect the +growth of her seeds, and then to disperse them. Whilst the seed remains +confined in its capsule, it cannot answer its purpose; hence, when it is +sufficiently ripe, the pericardium opens, and lets it out. What must +strike every observer with surprise is, how nuts and shells, which we +can hardly crack with our teeth, or even with a hammer, will divide of +themselves, and make way for the little tender sprout which proceeds +from the kernel. There are instances, it is said, such as in the +Touch-me-not (_impatiens_), and the Cuckoo-flower (_cardamine_), in +which the seed-vessels, by an elastic jerk at the moment of their +explosion, cast the seeds to a distance. We are all aware, however, that +many seeds--those of the most composite flowers, as of the thistle and +dandelion--are endowed with, what have not been inappropriately called, +wings. These consist of a beautiful silk-looking down, by which they are +enabled to float in the air, and to be transported, sometimes, to +considerable distances from the parent plant that produced them. The +swelling of this downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by which +the seed is enabled to overcome the resistance of its coats, and to +force for itself a passage by which it escapes from its little +prison-house. + +[Illustration: BEETON'S Book of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT +EDITED BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON] + +[Illustration: "THE FREE, FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND."] + +1073. BIRDS, AS WELL AS QUADRUPEDS, are likewise the means of dispersing +the seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where they +ultimately grow. Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is an +extensive planter of oaks; nay, it may be regarded as having, in some +measure, been one of the creators of the British navy. We have read of a +gentleman who was walking one day in some woods belonging to the Duke of +Beaufort, near Troy House, in Monmouthshire, when his attention was +arrested by a squirrel, sitting very composedly upon the ground. He +stopped to observe its motions, when, in a short time, the little animal +suddenly quitted its position, and darted to the top of the tree beneath +which it had been sitting. In an instant it returned with an acorn in +its mouth, and with its paws began to burrow in the earth. After digging +a small hole, it therein deposited an acorn, which it hastily covered, +and then darted up the tree again. In a moment it was down with another, +which it buried in the same manner; and so continued its labour, +gathering and burying, as long as the gentleman had patience to watch +it. This industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to lay +up a store of provision for the winter; and as it is probable that its +memory is not sufficiently retentive to enable it to recollect all the +spots in which it deposits its acorns, it no doubt makes some slips in +the course of the season, and loses some of them. These few spring up, +and are, in time, destined to supply the place of the parent tree. Thus +may the sons of Britain, in some degree, consider themselves to be +indebted to the industry and defective memory of this little animal for +the production of some of those "wooden walls" which have, for +centuries, been the national pride, and which have so long "braved the +battle and the breeze" on the broad bosom of the great deep, in every +quarter of the civilized globe. As with the squirrel, so with jays and +pies, which plant among the grass and moss, horse-beans, and probably +forget where they have secreted them. Mr. White, the naturalist, says, +that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the +autumn; and he attributes the sowing of them to birds. Bees, he also +observes, are much the best setters of cucumbers. If they do not happen +to take kindly to the frames, the best way is to tempt them by a little +honey put on the male and female bloom. When they are once induced to +haunt the frames, they set all the fruit, and will hover with impatience +round the lights in a morning till the glasses are opened. + +1074. Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of Monmouthshire may be +now in a fair way to become, at the end of some centuries, venerable +trees; for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strong +principle of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke's "Sketch +of the forest of Sherwood" we find it stated that, on some timber cut +down in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in the bodies +of the trees, denoting the king's reign in which they were marked. The +bark appears to have been cut off, and then the letters to have been cut +in, and the next year's wood to have grown over them without adhering to +where the bark had been cut out. The ciphers were found to be of James +I., William and Mary, and one of King John. One of the ciphers of James +was about one foot within the tree, and one foot from the centre. It was +cut down in 1786. The tree must have been two feet in diameter, or two +yards in circumference, when the mark was cut. A tree of this size is +generally estimated at 120 years' growth; which number being subtracted +from the middle year of the reign of James, would carry the year back to +1492, which would be about the period of its being planted. The tree +with the cipher of William and Mary displayed its mark about nine inches +within the tree, and three feet three inches from the centre. This tree +was felled in 1786. The cipher of John was eighteen inches within the +tree, and rather more than a foot from the centre. The middle year of +the reign of that monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, the +number of years requisite for a tree's growth to arrive at the diameter +of two feet, the date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085, +or about twenty years after the Conquest. + +[Illustration: CELLULAR DEVELOPMENT.] + +1075. Considering the great endurance of these trees, we are necessarily +led to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive at +such strength and maturity; and whether it may be considered as a +humiliation we will not determine, but, with all the ingenious +mechanical contrivances of man, we are still unable to define the limits +of the animal and vegetable kingdoms. "Plants have been described by +naturalists, who would determine the limits of the two kingdoms, as +organized living bodies, without volition or locomotion, destitute of a +mouth or intestinal cavity, which, when detached from their place of +growth, die, and, in decay, ferment, but do not putrefy, and which, on +being subjected to analysis, furnish an excess of carbon and no +nitrogen. The powers of chemistry, and of the microscope, however, +instead of confirming these views, tend more and more to show that a +still closer affinity exists between plants and animals; for it is now +ascertained that nitrogen, which was believed to be present only in +animals, enters largely into the composition of plants also. When the +microscope is brought to aid our powers of observation, we find that +there are organized bodies belonging to the vegetable kingdom which +possess very evident powers of locomotion, and which change about in so +very remarkable a manner, that no other cause than that of volition can +be assigned to it." Thus it would seem that, in this particular at +least, some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal life; and +when we consider the manner in which they are supplied with nourishment, +and perform the functions of their existence, the resemblance would seem +still closer. If, for example, we take a thin transverse slice of the +stem of any plant, or a slice cut across its stem, and immerse it in a +little pure water, and place it under a microscope, we will find that it +consists principally of cells, more or less regular, and resembling +those of a honeycomb or a network of cobweb. The size of these varies in +different plants, as it does in different parts of the same plant, and +they are sometimes so minute as to require a million to cover a square +inch of surface. This singular structure, besides containing water and +air, is the repository or storehouse of various secretions. Through it, +the sap, when produced, is diffused sideways through the plant, and by +it numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its cells. The +forms of the cells are various; they are also subject to various +transformations. Sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end to +end, and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form a +continuous tube, as in the sap-vessels of plants, or in muscular and +nervous fibre; and when cells are thus woven together, they are called +cellular tissue, which, in the human body, forms a fine net-like +membrane, enveloping or connecting most of its structures. In pulpy +fruits, the cells may be easily separated one from the other; and within +the cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp. Among the +cell-contents of some plants are beautiful crystals, called _raphides_. +The term is derived from [Greek: rhaphis] a _needle_, on account of the +resemblance of the crystal to a needle. They are composed of the +phosphate and oxalate of lime; but there is great difference of opinion +as to their use in the economy of the plant, and one of the French +philosophers endeavoured to prove that crystals are the possible +transition of the inorganic to organic matter. The differences, however, +between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of organic life +known, viz., a simple reproductive cell, are so manifold and striking, +that the attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic matter +passes into organic, is almost totally regarded as futile. In a layer of +an onion, a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of aloe, +in the bark of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of the +medicinal squill, bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be +found. Some of them are as large as 1-40th of an inch, others are as +small as the 1-1000th. They are found in all parts of the plant,--in the +stem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even in the +pollen, with some few exceptions, and they are always situated in the +interior of cells. Some plants, as many of the _cactus_ tribe, are made +up almost entirely of these needle-crystals; in some instances, every +cell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals; in others, the +whole interior is full of them, rendering the plant so exceedingly +brittle, that the least touch will occasion a fracture; so much so, that +some specimens of _Cactus senilis_, said to be a thousand years old, +which were sent a few years since to Kew, from South America, were +obliged to be packed in cotton, with all the care of the most delicate +jewellery, to preserve them during transport. + +[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE FROM UNDER-SIDE OF LEAF OF DEUTZIA +SCABRA.] + +[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE OF GRASS.] + +1076. Besides the cellular tissue, there is what is called a vascular +system, which consists of another set of small vessels. If, for example, +we, early in the spring, cut a branch transversely, we will perceive the +sap oozing out from numerous points over the whole of the divided +surface, except on that part occupied by the pith and the bark; and if a +twig, on which the leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree, +and placed with its cut end in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, the +colouring matter will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the top +of the twig. In both these cases, a close examination with a powerful +microscope, will discover the sap perspiring from the divided portion of +the stem, and the colouring matter rising through real tubes to the top +of the twig: these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. If, +however, we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any other +tree, at a later period of the season, we find that the wood is +apparently dry, whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood, +is swelled with fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kind +from those in which the sap rises. They are found in the _bark_ only in +trees, and may be called returning vessels, from their carrying the sap +downwards after its preparation in the leaf. It is believed that the +passage of the sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similar +to that of the blood in man, from the regular contraction and expansion +of the vessels; but, on account of their extreme minuteness, it is +almost an impossibility to be certain upon this point. Numerous +observations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldom +exceeds a 290th part of a line, or a 3,000th part of an inch. +Leuwenhoeck reckoned 20,000 vessels in a morsel of oak about one +nineteenth of an inch square. + +1077. In the vascular system of a plant, we at once see the great +analogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system; +but neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that is +required to perfect the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, a +tracheal system, which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes, +designed for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant. +There are also fibres, which consist of collections of these cells and +vessels closely united together. These form the root and the stem. If we +attempt to cut them transversely, we meet with difficulty, because we +have to force our way across the tubes, and break them; but if we slit +the wood lengthwise, the vessels are separated without breaking. The +layers of wood, which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cut +transversely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce of +one year's growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, without +which they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there is +the cuticle, which extends over every part of the plant, and covers the +bark with three distinct coats. The _liber_, or inner bark, is said to +be formed of hollow tubes, which convey the sap downwards to increase +the solid diameter of the tree. + +1078. THE ROOT AND THE STEM NOW DEMAND A SLIGHT NOTICE. The former is +designed, not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, but +also to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance of +nourishment: it is therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, as +they are called, from their resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whatever +comes within its reach. It is found in a variety of forms, and hence its +adaptation to a great diversity of soils and circumstances. We have +heard of a willow-tree being dug up and its head planted where its roots +were, and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches. +In course of time, the roots became branches, and the branches roots, or +rather, roots rose from the branches beneath the ground, and branches +shot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two, and +others, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an indefinite +period of existence; but they all consist of a collection of fibres, +composed of vascular and cellular tissue, without tracheae, or +breathing-vessels. The stem is the grand distributor of the nourishment +taken up by the roots, to the several parts of the plant. The seat of +its vitality is said to be in the point or spot called the neck, which +separates the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant be cut +off, it will shoot out afresh; if even the stem be taken away, it will +be renewed; but if this part be injured, the plant will assuredly die. + +1079. IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PLAN OF THIS WORK, special notices of +culinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they are +spoken of; but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it as +our conviction, that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamental +plant into our island, ought justly to be considered, to a large extent, +a benefactor to the country. No one can calculate the benefits which may +spring from this very vegetable, after its qualities have become +thoroughly known. If viewed in no other light, it is pleasing to +consider it as bestowing upon us a share of the blessings of other +climates, and enabling us to participate in the luxury which a more +genial sun has produced. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXV. + + +BOILED ARTICHOKES. + +1080. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling; +artichokes. + +[Illustration: ARTICHOKES.] + +_Mode_.--Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects +remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the +stems and put them into _boiling_ water, to which have been added salt +and soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let +them boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done by +thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily +removed. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in +a napkin, or with a little white sauce poured over. A tureen of melted +butter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is +considered better for being gathered two or three days; but they must be +well soaked and washed previous to dressing. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils. + +_Sufficient_,--a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. + +[Illustration: CARDOON ARTICHOKE.] + + THE COMPOSITAE, OR COMPOSITE FLOWERS.--This family is so + extensive, as to contain nearly a twelfth part of the whole of + the vegetable kingdom. It embraces about 9,000 species, + distributed over almost every country; and new discoveries are + constantly being made and added to the number. Towards the poles + their numbers diminish, and slightly, also, towards the equator; + but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical islands, and in + the tracts of continent not far from the sea-shore. Among + esculent vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scorzonera, Cardoon, + and Artichoke belong to the family. + +FRIED ARTICHOKES. + +(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course.) + +1081. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the +batter,--1/4 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk. + +_Mode_.--Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080, and rub them +over with lemon-juice, to keep them white. When they are quite tender, +take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each piece +into batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish with +crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. + +_Sufficient_,--5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. + + +A FRENCH MODE OF COOKING ARTICHOKES. + +1082. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 artichokes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow +1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch of +savoury herbs, 2 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Cut the ends of the leaves, as also the stems; put the +artichokes into boiling water, with the above proportion of salt, +pepper, herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly until tender, keeping +the lid of the saucepan off, and when the leaves come out easily, they +are cooked enough. To keep them a beautiful green, put a large piece of +cinder into a muslin bag, and let it boil with them. Serve with plain +melted butter. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes. + +_Sufficient_,--5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. + + +ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE. + +1083. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 6 artichokes, salt and butter, about 1/2 pint +of good gravy. + +_Mode_.--Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them until +tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When done, drain +them well, and lay them all round the dish, with the leaves outside. +Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured with mushrooms; reduce it +until quite thick, and pour it round the artichokes, and serve. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes to boil the artichokes. + +_Sufficient_ for one side-dish. + +_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. + + CONSTITUENT PROPERTIES OF THE ARTICHOKE.--According to the + analysis of Braconnet, the constituent elements of an artichoke + are,--starch 30, albumen 10, uncrystallizable sugar 148, gum 12, + fixed oil 1, woody fibre 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770. + +BOILED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. + +1084. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; artichokes. + +_Mode_.--Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes in a round or oval form, +and put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, +salted in the above proportion. Let them boil gently until tender; take +them up, drain them, and serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichever +mode is preferred; send to table with them a tureen of melted butter or +cream sauce, a little of which may be poured over the artichokes when +they are _not_ served in a napkin. + +[Illustration: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.] + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, 2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_,--10 for a dish for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to June. + + USES OF THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.--This being a tuberous-rooted + plant, with leafy stems from four to six feet high, it is + alleged that its tops will afford as much fodder per acre as a + crop of oats, or more, and its roots half as many tubers as an + ordinary crop of potatoes. The tubers, being abundant in the + market-gardens, are to be had at little more than the price of + potatoes. The fibres of the stems may be separated by + maceration, and manufactured into cordage or cloth; and this is + said to be done in some parts of the north and west of France, + as about Hagenau, where this plant, on the poor sandy soils, is + an object of field culture. + +MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. + +1085. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt; 15 or +16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender; +drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. When +thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan with the +butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep stirring over the +fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to June. + + +JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH WHITE SAUCE. + +(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.) + +1086. INGREDIENTS.--12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts, 1/2 +pint of white sauce, No. 538. + +_Mode_.--Peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear; cut a piece +off the bottom of each, that they may stand upright in the dish, and +boil them in salt and water until tender. Have ready 1/2 pint of white +sauce, made by recipe No. 538; dish the artichokes, pour over them the +sauce, and place between each a fine Brussels sprout: these should be +boiled separately, and not with the artichokes. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to June. + + THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.--This plant is well known, being, for + its tubers, cultivated not only as a garden vegetable, but also + as an agricultural crop. By many it is much esteemed as an + esculent, when cooked in various ways; and the domesticated + animals eat both the fresh foliage, and the tubers with great + relish. By some, they are not only considered nourishing, but + even fattening. + +BOILED ASPARAGUS. + +1087. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; asparagus. + +[Illustration: ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. ASPARAGUS TONGS.] + +_Mode_.--Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is +cut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks into +cold water; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot be +cooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, _beginning_ from +the _head_, and throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundles +of about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalks +evenly, that they may all be the same length; put them into _boiling_ +water, with salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quickly +until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done, +dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cooked +in, and leave the white ends outwards each war, with the points meeting +in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter. + +_Time_.--15 to 18 minutes after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. the 100 heads. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had, forced, from January but cheapest in May, +June, and July. + +[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.] + + ASPARAGUS.--This plant belongs to the variously-featured family + of the order _Liliaceae_, which, in the temperate regions of + both hemispheres, are most abundant, and, between the tropics, + gigantic in size and arborescent in form. Asparagus is a native + of Great Britain, and is found on various parts of the seacoast, + and in the fens of Lincolnshire. At Kynarve Cove, in Cornwall, + there is an island called "Asparagus Island," from the abundance + in which it is there found. The uses to which the young shoots + are applied, and the manure in which they are cultivated in + order to bring them to the highest state of excellence, have + been a study with many kitchen-gardeners. + +ASPARAGUS PEAS. + +(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.) + +1088. INGREDIENTS.--100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small +bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks +of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt. + +_Mode_.--Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal +size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them +into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until +three-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the +moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, +and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a +little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled +a short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken with +the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and, +when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the sauce +sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a pint. + +_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July. + + MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS.--This plant not only acts as a + wholesome and nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic, + aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical analysis of its juice + discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable + principle, called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and + some salts. Thours says, the cellular tissue contains a + substance similar to sage. The berries are capable of undergoing + vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. In + their unripe state they possess the same properties as the + roots, and probably in a much higher degree. + + +ASPARAGUS PUDDING. + +(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course.) + +1089. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls +of flour, 1 tablespoonful of _very finely_ minced ham, 1 oz. of butter, +pepper and salt to taste, milk. + +_Mode_.--Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the size +of peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well +beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these +ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the +pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered +mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in _boiling +water_, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to a +hot dish, and pour plain melted butter _round_, but not over, the +pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner, +substituting peas for the asparagus. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per pint. + +_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July. + + +BOILED FRENCH BEANS. + +1090. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda. + +[Illustration: Scarlet Runner.] + +_Mode_.--This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowed +to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the +heads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to remove +the strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according to +size, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they are +cut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolved +in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the +above proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with the +lid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender, +which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan, +take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish and +serve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimes +served whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour are +much better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is to +cut them into thin strips. + +_Time_.--Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20 +minutes, after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 4d. a peck; but, when forced, very +expensive. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September; but may be +had, forced, from February to the beginning of June. + + +FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS. + +1091. INGREDIENTS.--A quart of French beans, 3 oz. of fresh butter, +pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and when +tender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry away +the moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the butter, +pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan, without using a +spoon, as that would break the beans; and when the butter is melted, and +all is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter should not mix well, add a +tablespoonful of gravy, and serve very quickly. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them over +the fire. + +_Average cost_, in full season, about 1s. 4d. a peck. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September. + + +BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS. + +1092. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; beans. + +[Illustration: BROAD BEAN.] + +_Mode_.--This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be +nice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans, +put them into _boiling_ water, salted in the above proportion, and let +them boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, and +serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon +should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked +separately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and the +parsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish to +a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have their +skins removed. + + +_Time_.--Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25 +minutes, or longer. + +_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August. + + NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN.--The produce of beans in meal + is, like that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in + any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of beans is supposed to + yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats; and a + bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some, + twenty pounds. A thousand parts of bean flour were found by Sir + II. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive matter, of which 426 + were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter + rendered insoluble during the process. + +BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE. + +1093. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth, +a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump of +sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, and shell +sufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until +nearly done; then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with the +stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectly +tender, and the liquor has dried away a little; then beat up the yolk of +an egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let the whole get +thoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should the +beans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to boiling +them. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the +stock. + +_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August. + + ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN.--This valuable plant is said + to be a native of Egypt, but, like other plants which have been + domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It has been cultivated in + Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known in + Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general + heads,--the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field + beans, of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and + long-pod are almost the only sorts; of the latter, those known + as the horse-bean, the small or ticks, and the prolific of + Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured + in the same manner as in other plants. + +BOILED BEETROOT. + +1094. INGREDIENTS,--Beetroot; boiling water. + +_Mode_.--When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a very +excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into an +economical and quickly-made pickle. (_See_ No. 369.) Beetroot is more +frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred, +melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewed +with button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash the +beets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they are +cooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put them +into boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them well +covered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot +into thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle, +&c., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices. + +_Time_.--Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 2d. each. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had at any time. + +[Illustration: BEETROOT.] + + BEETROOT.--The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts + (_Salxolaceae_), to which beetroot belongs, is most common in + extra-tropical and temperate regions, where they are common + weeds, frequenting waste places, among rubbish, and on marshes + by the seashore. In the tropics they are rare. They are + characterized by the large quantities of mucilage, sugar, + starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many of them + are used as potherbs, and some are emetic and vermifuge in their + medicinal properties. The _root_ of _garden_ or red beet is + exceedingly wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has + recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down + this root with an equal quantity of flour. He says that the + average quality of flour contains about 12 per cent. of azotized + principles adapted for the formation of flesh, and the average + quality of beet contains about 2 per cent. of the same + materials. + +BOILED BROCOLI. + +1095. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; brocoli. + +[Illustration: BOILED BROCOLI.] + +_Mode_.--Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut off +level with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and put +the brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. When +they have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are _perfectly_ +free from insects, put them into a saucepan of _boiling_ water, salted +in the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk +fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment +they are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted +butter, a _little_ of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left +in the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be +spoiled, and its crispness gone. + +_Time_.--Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 2d. each. + +_Sufficient_,--2 for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to March; plentiful in February and March. + +[Illustration: BROCOLI.] + + THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.--This variety presents a + singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a + large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting + from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of + leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden + vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome, + nutritious, and very palatable. + +BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS. + +1096. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. + +_Mode_.--Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick off +any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into a +saucepan of _boiling_ water, with salt and soda in the above proportion; +keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire +until tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or +with a maitre d'hotel sauce poured over them. Another mode of serving +is, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter and a +seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table very +quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where the +cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arranged +on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a very +pretty appearance. + +_Time_.--From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per peck. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--When the Green Kale, or Borecole, + has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it + assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves; + it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts. + Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is + the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the _Borecole oleracea + capitula_ of science); and all its varieties of green, red, + dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the + forms into which it is possible to put it. + +TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS. + +1097. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. + +[Illustration: BRUSSELS SPROUTS.] + +_Mode_.--Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in cold +water; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water, +with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, +with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, take +them up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. The +great art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is +to put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_ water, to let them boil very +quickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender. + +_Time_.--Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12 +minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils. + +_Seasonable_.--Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year. + + GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.--When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is + brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes + greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open + leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole. + The scientific name is _Borecole oleracea acephala_, and of it + there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of + the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We + may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed, + and the Cow or Tree Cabbage. + +BOILED CABBAGE. + +1098. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. _Mode_.--Pick off +all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible, +and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should be +very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in a +colander, and drain; then put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_ +water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions. +Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and +let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take them +up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain, +dish, and serve. + +_Time_.--Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summer +cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, 2d. each in full season. + +_Sufficient_,--2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time. + + THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.--Of all the tribes of the + _Cruciferae_ this is by far the most important. Its scientific + name is _Brassiceae_, and it contains a collection of plants + which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent + position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the + cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of + Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant, + with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves, + of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the + leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who, + after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use + them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the _Brassica + oleracea_ of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which + have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, + Greens, and Brocoli. + +STEWED RED CABBAGE. + +1099. INGREDIENTS.--1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of +fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and +pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan, +with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and the +vinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is +very tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and +pepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fire +until nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are +usually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and on +the cabbage, as a garnish. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to January. + + THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.--This plant, as it is found on + the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the + cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it + is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now + applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart. + +BOILED CARROTS. + +1100. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; carrots. + +_Mode_.--Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and should +there be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them in +halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them into +boiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until +tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish, +and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to +boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a few +carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sent +to table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly so +much boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition to +stewed veal, &c. + +_Time_.--Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2 +hour. + +_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d, per bunch of 18. + +_Sufficient_,--4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. + +[Illustration: CARROTS.] + + ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.--In its wild state, this vegetable is + found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by + waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its + umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a + birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and + hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic + smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it + is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a + peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by + naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and, + generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion. + +TO DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY. + +1101. INGREDIENTS.--8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste, a +very little grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley, 1 +dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak stock +or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour. + +_Mode_.--Wash and scrape the carrots, and cut them into rings of about +1/4 inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, +lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the above +proportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes, and when +the carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour in the stock, and +simmer gently until they are nearly tender. Then put into another +stewpan a small piece of butter; dredge in about a tablespoonful of +flour; stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown colour, add the +liquor that the carrots have been boiling in; let this just boil up, +pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan, and let them finish +simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot. + +This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of roast +pork, sausages, &c. &c. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. + + CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT.--These are crystallizable and + uncrystallizable sugar, a little starch, extractive, gluten, + albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline + matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red + neuter principle, without odour or taste, called carotin. This + vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular property + of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or + mucilage, combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less + in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and + fruits from which jellies are prepared. + +STEWED CARROTS. + +1102. INGREDIENTS.--7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth, pepper +and salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of cream, thickening of butter and +flour. + +_Mode_.--Scrape the carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them into a +stewpan; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream; simmer till tender, +and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes before serving, +mix a little flour with about 1 oz. of butter; thicken the gravy with +this; let it just boil up, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to cook +them after they are sliced. + +_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. + + NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT.--Sir H. Davy ascertained the + nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts + in one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are + starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give + colour and flavour to butter; and it is excellent in stews, + haricots, soups, and, when boiled whole, with salt beef. In the + distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar in its + composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual + quantity is twelve gallons per ton. + +SLICED CARROTS. + +(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course, as a Side-dish.) + +1103. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar, 1 pint +of weak stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equal +size, and boil them in salt and water, until half done; drain them well, +put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil over +a brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and a +seasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well, and when the butter is +well mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the dish +when it comes to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. + +_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. + + THE SEED OF THE CARROT.--In order to save the seed of carrots, + the plan is, to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped + roots in the taking-up season, and either preserve them in sand + in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an open + airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during + severe frost, or earthing them over, and uncovering them in + March following. The seed is in no danger from being injured by + any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best + preserved on the stalks till wanted. + +BOILED CAULIFLOWERS. + +[Illustration: BOILED CAULIFLOWER.] + +[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER.] + +1104. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the +decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Open +the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are +found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water +for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this +will effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them into +fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, +and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan +uncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers +are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large +enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter, +a little of which may be poured over the flower. + +_Time_.--Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25 +minutes, after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. + + +CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE. + +(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.) + +1105. INGREDIENTS.--3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or French +melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. of butter; salt and water. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cut +the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt and +water, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and be +careful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break, +and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. Drain them well, and +dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready 1/2 pint of +sauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hot +and quickly. + +_Time_.--Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25 +minutes, after the water boils. + +_Average cost_,--large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_,--1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. + + CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.--These are only forms of the wild + Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but + we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only + varieties of the Cauliflower. + +CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. + +(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.) + +1106. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of +white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. +of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drain +them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready the +above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the +cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped +Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which +should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before the +fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the +sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan +cheese. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, +6d. each. + +_Sufficient_,--3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish. + +_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. + + +CELERY. + +[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS.] + +1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is +generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let the +roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being +cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or +blemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide it +lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a +celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water. +The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with +the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the +top. + +_Average cost_, 2d. per head. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to April. + +_Note_.--This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, +sauces, &c., and makes a very nice addition to winter salad. + + +STEWED CELERY A LA CREME. + +1108. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow +1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of +cream. + +_Mode_.--Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water +until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it +over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the +sauce, and serve. + +_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 +minutes. + +_Average cost_. 2d. per head. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to April. + +ALEXANDERS.--This plant is the _Smyrnium olustratum_ of science, and is +used in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a native +of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. It +received its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and is supposed +to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may, +its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned. + + +STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce). + +I. + +1109. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each 1/2 +gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white +sauce, No. 537 or 538. + +_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery, +with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cut +off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the +root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly +until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and +pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes +No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast, +and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished. + +_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20 +minutes, after the water boils. + +_Average cost_, 2d. per head. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to April. + + ORIGIN OF CELERY.--In the marshes and ditches of this country + there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of + Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being + subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes + mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, + coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the + ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots." There is a + variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and + large. It is called _Celeriae_, and is extensively used by the + Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this + plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult + of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken. + +[Illustration: CELERY.]. + +II. + +1110. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak +broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1 +blade of pounded mace, a _very little_ grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into +lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth, +and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add +the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour +into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toasted +bread. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2d. per head. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from October to April. + +_Note_.--By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a +little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above +stew may be converted into a puree of celery. + + +TO DRESS CUCUMBERS. + +1111. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of +vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber. + +_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into _very thin_ slices, and +_commence_ cutting from the _thick end_; if commenced at the stalk, the +cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from +agreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper, +and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber +about, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment to +boiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, and +makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad. + +[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.] + +[Illustration: CUCUMBER.] + +_Average cost_, when scarce, 1s. to 2s. 6d.; when cheapest, may be had +for 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in +full season in July, August, and September. + + GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS.--This family is not + known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but + in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are + abundant. They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan; + but in America are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds + supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are + actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking, + delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and + indigestible. + +CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. + +1112. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter, +flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of +sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness, +and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; then +drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter. Fry +them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over them +a little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to +the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; but +the cucumber should not be broken. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, add +the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the whole +to the point of boiling, and serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, +from the beginning of March. + + +FRIED CUCUMBERS. + +1113. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour, +oil or butter. + +_Mode_.--Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal +thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of +the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour, +and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them +about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve, +piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement to +rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top. + +_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in +full season in July and August. + + PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.--The common cucumber is + the C. sativus of science, and although the whole of the family + have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some + which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those which + are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a + resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The fruits of this + family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or + less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds, + cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are + slightly laxative if partaken of largely. In tropical countries, + this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of + their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren + islands, is of the finest quality. In China, Cashmere, and + Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating + collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they + are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state, + and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous. + +STEWED CUCUMBERS. + +1114. INGREDIENTS.--3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than +1/2 pint of good brown gravy. + +_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are +intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into +boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes; +then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and +let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Should +these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the +sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the +beginning of March. + + THE CHATE.--This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and + produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the + Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as + well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have. + +STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS. + +1115. INGREDIENTS.--6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1 +pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a +very little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the +onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock, +and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very +large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the +cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and +serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a +favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, +from the beginning of March. + + THE MELON.--This is another species of the cucumber, and is + highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit. It was + introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which + period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called + the Musk Melon. + +ENDIVE. + +[Illustration: ENDIVE.] + +1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent +addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not +obtainable. It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looks +remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled +celery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely. In +preparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which are +generally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, and +dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. This vegetable may also be +served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressed +thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, as +that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable. + +_Average cost_, 1d. per head. + +_Sufficient_,--1 head for a salad for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + ENDIVE.--This is the _C. endivium_ of science, and is much used + as a salad. It belongs to the family of the _Compositae_, with + Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus. + Withering states, that before the stems of the common + Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the + same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious. We are also informed + by Villars that the children in Dauphine universally eat the + stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear, + with great avidity. The fresh juice of these tender herbs is + said to be the best solvent of bile. + +STEWED ENDIVE. + +1117. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, +thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small +lump of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the +green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly +salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till +there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a +stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil +until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may be +ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a +thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil +up, and serve. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth. + +_Average cost_, 1d. per head. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + +ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE. + +1118. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of fresh +butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop it +rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a brisk +fire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper, +salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mix +all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot. + +_Time_,--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth. + +_Average cost_, 1d. per head. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + +TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS. + +1119. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft +water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4 +hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted in +the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer very +slowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand by +the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to +allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of +pepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve: +do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces. + +_Time_.--After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter, when other vegetables are scarce. + +_Note_.--Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling +water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing. + + HARICOTS AND LENTILS.--Although these vegetables are not much + used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic + countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form + an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and _maigre_ + days. At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in + this country, they were probably much more generally used than + at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity, + possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of + diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be + considered a sign of popery. + +HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. + +1120. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. of fresh +butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the +juice of 1/2 lemon. + +[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS.] + +_Mode_.--Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two in +cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding +recipe. If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little more +cold, which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let them be very +thoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, minced +parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving the stewpan +over the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and, +when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in the +lemon-juice, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + HARICOT BEANS.--This is the _haricot blanc_ of the French, and + is a native of India. It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most + parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to + gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown + in fields. It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants, + which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed. The haulm is both + of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making + the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well + if the working classes of this country were acquainted. There + is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked, + and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans + are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and + a little milk or water and flour. From 3,840 parts of + kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to + starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage. + +HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS. + +1121. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sized +onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little +flour. + +_Mode_.--Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in +butter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and add +the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of +haricot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and +gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the +onions. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per quart. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +HORSERADISH. + +1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and is +used for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish. Let the horseradish +remain in cold water for an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp knife +scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end of the +root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and the +remainder use for garnishing the joint: it should be placed in tufts +round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat. + +_Average cost_, 2d. per stick. + +_Seasonable_ from October to June. + +[Illustration: HORSERADISH.] + + THE HORSERADISH.--This belongs to the tribe _Alyssidae_, and is + highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It has been + recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints, + and in cases of enfeebled digestion. Its principal use, however, + is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive + organs. The horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty + per cent, in the number of its elements; and it is to the + presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the + radish is sometimes distilled, are turned into a black colour. + It is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we + have, and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in + the form of wines, tinctures, and syrups. + +LETTUCES. + +1123. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads; +should be nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom served in +any other way, but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravy +flavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them for a salad, carefully +wash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed and outer leaves, and +dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, and +either halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces. The manner of +cutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they are +intended. In France the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth +and not washed, the cooks there declaring that the act of washing them +injuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant: in this case +scrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly +wiped away. + +_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from March to the end of August, but may be had all the +year. + +[Illustration: LETTUCE.] + + THE LETTUCE.--All the varieties of the garden lettuce have + originated from the _Lactuca sativa_ of science, which has never + yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded that + it is merely another form of some species, changed through the + effects of cultivation. In its young state, the lettuce forms a + well-known and wholesome salad, containing a bland pellucid + juice, with little taste or smell, and having a cooling and + soothing influence on the system. This arises from the large + quantities of water and mucilage it contains, and not from any + narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess. During the + period of flowering, it abounds in a peculiar milky juice, which + flows from the stem when wounded, and which has been found to be + possessed of decided medicinal properties. + + +BAKED MUSHROOMS. + +(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.) + +1124. INGREDIENTS.--16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better than +the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of the +stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of +flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with a +very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a +little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should +the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a _very hot_ dish, pile the +mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to +table quickly, with very _hot_ plates. + +_Time_.--20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushroom-flaps. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated +mushrooms may be had at any time. + + FUNGI.--These are common parasitical plants, originating in the + production of copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium, + or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on the mycelium; some of these + enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at the + base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a + rounded body, which in a short time expands into the pileus or + cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface, consist of + parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole + surface. Some of the cells, which are visible by the microscope, + produce four small cells at their free summit, apparently by + germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this + is the development of the Agarics. + +BROILED MUSHROOMS. + +(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.) + +1125. INGREDIENTS.--Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter, +lemon-juice. + +[Illustration: BROILED MUSHROOMS.] + +_Mode_.--Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel +and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops: +broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a +very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with +pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place +the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot +and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of +cooking than the buttons: the latter are better in stews. + +_Time_.--10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushrooms. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person. + +_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated +mushrooms may be had at any time. + +[Illustration: MUSHROOMS.] + + VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--The common mushroom found in our + pastures is the _Agaricus campestris_ of science, and another + edible British species is _A. Georgii;_ but _A. primulus_ is + affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is + _Morchella esculenta_, and _Tuber cibarium_ is the common + truffle. There is in New Zealand a long fungus, which grows from + the head of a caterpillar, and which forms a horn, as it were, + and is called _Sphaeria Robertsii_. + +TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS. + +1126. INGREDIENTS.--To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. of butter, +pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter. + +_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little +lemon-juice; take them out and _dry_ them very carefully in a cloth. Put +the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it is +melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of pepper and +salt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until their +liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry, but be careful in +not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done, put +them into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted for +immediate use, they will keep good a few days without being covered +over. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the +butter from them, and they will be ready for use. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each. + +_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated +mushrooms may be had at any time. + + LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--Mushrooms are to be met with in + pastures, woods, and marshes, but are very capricious and + uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained + in one season where few or none were to be found in the + preceding. They sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently + they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many + species are employed by man as food; but, generally speaking, + they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very + nourishing. Many of them are also of suspicious qualities. + Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or + colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate; + and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when + young, but become noxious when advanced in age. + +STEWED MUSHROOMS. + +1127. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter, +white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour, +cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of +mushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a little +lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the +water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan +with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon; +cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25 +minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add +gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a +proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are +not perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove every +particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 9d. to 2s. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October. + + TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS.--In order to obtain mushrooms at all + seasons, several methods of propagation have been had recourse + to. It is said that, in some parts of Italy, a species of stone + is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two + different kinds; the one is found in the chalk hills near + Naples, and has a white, porous, stalactical appearance; the + other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near + Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally + moistened with water which has been used in the washing of + mushrooms, and are thus supplied with their minute seeds. In + this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called + _spawn_, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or + purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it. + When thus procured, it is usually made up for sale in quadrils, + consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong + smell of mushrooms. This is planted in rows, in a dry situation, + and carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed + begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months. + +STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY. + +1128. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy +No. 436, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436; cut nearly all the +stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into a +stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2 +hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve very +hot. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 9d. to 2s. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October. + + ANALYSIS OF FUNGI.--The fungi have been examined chemically with + much care, both by MM. Bracannot and Vauquelin, who designate + the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin, and the + soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic + acids. + +BAKED SPANISH ONIONS. + +1129. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water. + +_Mode_.--Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling +water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then take +them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper +separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, +should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, and +eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or +they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them. + +_Time_.--1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake. + +_Average cost_, medium-sized, 2d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to January. + +[Illustration: ONION.] + + THE GENUS ALLIUM.--The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot, + belongs to the genus _Allium_, which is a numerous species of + vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a + volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin + transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in + their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most + active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the + other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With + many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an + extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently + taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with + salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but + many prefer it without this. + +BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES. + +1130. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of +moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not +tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the +sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and +throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boiling +vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a +wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. + + PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.--The onion is possessed of a white, + acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a + good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric + acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of + lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion has + the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is + impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes + being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of + being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with + water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an + alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are + not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them + either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which + is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then + undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. The pulp of + roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and + emollient poultice to suppurating tumours. + +STEWED SPANISH ONIONS. + +1131--INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or +gravy. + +_Mode_.--Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the +tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a +stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on +the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer _very gently_ +until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round, +and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a +large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire +or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy. + +_Time_.--To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large. + +_Average cost_.--medium-sized, 2d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to January. + +_Note_.--Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast +shoulder of mutton. + + ORIGIN OF THE ONION.--This vegetable is thought to have + originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an + object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence + to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, + in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been + cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and + much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at + all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman + would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this + country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted, + perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves. + +BOILED PARSNIPS. + +1132. INGREDIENTS.--Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the point +of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they be +very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a saucepan +of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly until +tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take them +up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This vegetable is usually +served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to table +with the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots round +the dish, as a garnish. + +_Time_.--Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person. + +_Seasonable_ from October to May. + +[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.] + + THE PARSNIP.--This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over + Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry + banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state, the root is white, + mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony: + when old, it has been known to cause vertigo. Willis relates + that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its + roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state. In domestic + economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly + nutritious vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread + has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent + wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a + spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from + carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to + be 79.4 of water, 0.9 starch and fibre, 6.1 gum, 5.5 sugar, and + 2.1 of albumen. + +BOILED GREEN PEAS. + +1133. INGREDIENTS.--Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 +_small_ teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be +young, and not _gathered_ or _shelled_ long before it is dressed. Shell +the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them +into a saucepan with plenty of _fast-boiling_ water, to which salt and +_moist sugar_ have been added in the above proportion; let them boil +quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and +be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them into +a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre +of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooks +boil a small bunch of mint _with_ the _peas_, or garnish them with it, +by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas be +very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda +may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be +very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a +smashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not the +slightest occasion to use it. + +_Time_.--Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as +marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, when cheapest, 6d. per peck; when first in season, 1s. +to 1s. 6d. per peck. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. + + ORIGIN OF THE PEA.--All the varieties of garden peas which are + cultivated have originated from the _Pisum sativum_, a native of + the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of _Pisum + arvense_. The Everlasting Pea is _Lathyrus latifolius_, an old + favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of + honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country + the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture + seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of + herbage, plants, and roots. + +GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE. + +1134. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter, a +bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2 +teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour. + +_Mode_.--Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put them +into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir them +about until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in a +colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredge +over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them with +boiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, or +until there is no liquor remaining. Dip a small lump of sugar into some +water, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2 +teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, work +it together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, which +should be boiling when it is put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when +the peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. + + VARIETIES OF THE PEA.--The varieties of the Pea are numerous; + but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the + ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state. + The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the + neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part + rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those + of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey, the + late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the + Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in + fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common + white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties. + +STEWED GREEN PEAS. + +1135. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of +butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put +these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no +more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew +the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a +well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When the +peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do +not allow them to boil. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. + +[Illustration: GREEN PEA.] + + THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.--The well-known + sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in + a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling + habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The + wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and + the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them, + and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey. + They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say + that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and + thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat + like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable + flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have + served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass + through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in + Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts. + +BAKED POTATOES. + +1136. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes. + +[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.] + +_Mode_.--Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash them +in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a baked +potato is by many persons considered the better part of it. Put them +into a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning them +three or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve them in a napkin +immediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, they +have a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before the +fire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done very +slowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter. + +_Time_.--Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cool +oven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 to each person. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new +potatoes are in season. + + POTATO-SUGAR.--This sugary substance, found in the tubers of + potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has + not yet been crystallized. It resembles the sugar of grapes, + has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats, + and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes, + yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a + half pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, as + good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from + cane-sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which + resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were + charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France + this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five + hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of + spirit, the pulp being given to cattle. + +TO BOIL POTATOES. + +1137. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow +1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all the +eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water. Put +them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, with +salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. +Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take them +up the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the water +afterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put the +saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, to +allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, and +do not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture will +evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy +and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficult +to give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched, +and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. Send them to +table quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of the +dish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back on +the potatoes. + +_Time_.--Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water +boils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new +potatoes are in season. + +_Note_.--To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a +folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them, +keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb the +moisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling. + + THE POTATO.--The potato belongs to the family of the + _Solanaceae_, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics, + and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of + both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic + zones. The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number + are narcotic, and many are deleterious. The roots partake of the + properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active. + The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and + nutritive, as in those of the potato. The leaves are generally + narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the + case with the _Solanum nigrum_, which are used as a vegetable + when cooked. + +TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS. + +1138. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water, +allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in +perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on. In +Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understood +than in any country, they are always served so. Wash the potatoes well, +and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from +them; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be as +nearly the same size as possible. When thoroughly cleansed, fill the +saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with cold +water, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled with +a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than when +drowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of the +fire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascertain when they are +done by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover the +saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking care +not to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put them in a very hot +vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly. +After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, as +the steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes them +watery and insipid. In Ireland they are usually served up with the skins +on, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest. + +_Time_.--Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutes +after the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, or +longer; 5 minutes to dry them. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new +potatoes are in season. + + ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.--Next to the cereals, the potato is the + most valuable plant for the production of human food. Its + tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the + laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland, + contain the following ingredients:--75.52 per cent. of water, + 15.72 starch, O.55 dextrine, 3.3 of impure saccharine matter, + and 3.25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a dried state the + tuber contains 64.2 per cent, of starch, 2.25 of dextrine, 13.47 + of impure saccharine matter, 5.77 of caseine, gluten, and + albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13.31 of fibre with coagulated + albumen. + +TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. + +1139. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as +they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time. +Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into +_boiling_ water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil until +tender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away from +them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the +saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, +put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of a +walnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too +old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain, +peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in the +midst of them. + +_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 1d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March. + + POTATO STARCH.--This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline + appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in + cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is on this starch + that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an + aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate + constitution. It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and + eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more + light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of + wheat. In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies, + and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces. It + accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for + whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too + generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its + cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal, + if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as, + salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root. + +TO STEAM POTATOES. + +1140. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; boiling water. + +_Mode_.--This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, +particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very +convenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are +peeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan +of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes, +according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily through them, +they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly. + +_Time_.--20 to 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 large potatoes to each person. + +_Seasonable_ all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in +season. + + USES OF THE POTATO.--Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour + milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when + kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years. It is + generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled + is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having + drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the + safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose. + Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green, + are very unwholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will + clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the + berries of the _S. saponaceum_ are used in Peru for the same + purpose. + +HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES. + +1141. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb. allow 2 +tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. of butter, +milk. + +_Mode_.--Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps; +stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten them +well; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven until +nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them +out of the mould, and serve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + POTATO BREAD.--The manner in which this is made is very simple. + The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against + its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten + flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the + following manner:--A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid + on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed + that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove, + the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of + the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost + immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan; + because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by + the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it + must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will then eat very + palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings, + like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when + well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent + accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes + are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and + an excellent cake, or _scon_, obtained. + +FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion). + +1142. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt. + +_Mode_.--Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the same +size as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a +frying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice +brown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a cloth +before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, after +sprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and, in +France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish. The remains of +cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the +slices must be cut a little thicker. + +_Time_.--Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_,--6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES. + +1143. INGREDIENTS.--8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2 +tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a stewpan; stir over the fire +until the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth and +vinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them in +the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be in +from 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered with +the potatoes is an improvement. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + PRESERVING POTATOES.--In general, potatoes are stored or + preserved in pits, cellars, pies, or camps; but, whatever mode + is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry; + otherwise, they will surely rot; and a few rotten potatoes will + contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of + a trench, lined and covered with straw; the potatoes in it being + piled in the shape of a house roof, to the height of about three + feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a + similar manner, covered up with the excavated mould of the pit. + In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved in boxes, in + houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one + or two degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep + potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them + in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar: there, + the temperature being always below that of active vegetation, + they will not sprout; while, not being above one or two degrees + below the freezing-point, the tubers will not be frostbitten. + Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop, + and keep the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy + the vital principle, by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a + fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of + temperature will reach them; and thus, being without air, they + will remain upwards of a year without vegetating. + +POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. + +1144. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt and water; to every 6 potatoes allow +1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to +taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water by +recipe No. 1138; when they are done, drain them, let them cool; then +peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices: if these are too thin, they +would break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper, +salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well together, put in +the potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may be well +covered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze in the +lemon-juice, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them to +heat in the sauce. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year. + + +MASHED POTATOES. + +1145. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1 +oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, drain them, and +let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; then peel them, +and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with a +large fork beat them to a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt in the +above proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire. When +thoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over the +potatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in this +manner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or before the +fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn them out, and +brown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes +them heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be taken +to have them quite free from lumps. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_,--1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes. + +1146. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint of +good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly in +a mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rub +the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan +with the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it +will then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner than +mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled +mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the +latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for +ragouts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly, +placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. After +having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean, +and the ragout or fricassee poured in. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the +puree. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: SWEET POTATO.] + + VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.--These are very numerous. "They + differ," says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm; + in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the + interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of + ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting + agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in + the length of the subterraneous _stolones_ to which the tubers + are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in + the soil which they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in + fields are,--the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and + the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated + round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is + but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served + at table, and is there very highly esteemed. + +POTATO RISSOLES. + +1147. INGREDIENTS.--Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; when +liked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs. + +[Illustration: POTATO RISSOLES.] + +_Mode_.--Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a seasoning +of pepper and salt, and, when liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the +potatoes into small balls, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry +in hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain before the fire, dish +them on a napkin, and serve. + +_Time_,--10 minutes to fry the rissoles. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by +adding finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when these +are liked. + + QUALITIES OF POTATOES.--In making a choice from the many + varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found, the best way + is to get a sample and taste them, and then fix upon the kind + which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most + esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture; and the Kidney + and Bread-fruit are also good sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also + a good potato, and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of + Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or + Red-apple stands very high in favour. + +POTATO SNOW. + +1148. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt, and water. + +_Mode_.--Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible; +boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender; drain +and _dry them thoroughly_ by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put a +hot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to +this dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, and +serve as hot as possible. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes. + +_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. + +_Sufficient_,--6 potatoes for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE POTATO AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.--This valuable esculent, + next to wheat, is of the greatest importance in the eye of the + political economist. From no other crop that can be cultivated + does the public derive so much benefit; and it has been + demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the + number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat. + +TO DRESS SALSIFY. + +1149. INGREDIENTS.--Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their +outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are +peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little +lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water, +with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them +boil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrates +easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good white +sauce or French melted butter. + +_Time_.--30 to 50 minutes. _Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Note_.--This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter +of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served +with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt +sprinkled over the salsify. + + SALSIFY.--This esculent is, for the sake of its roots, + cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of + flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable + kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and + most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity + existing in the properties of the plants of which it is + composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or + stimulant in their medical virtues. + +BOILED SEA-KALE. + +1150. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt. + +[Illustration: BOILED SEA-KALE.] + +_Mode_.--Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie it +into small bunches; put it into _boiling_ water, salted in the above +proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain, +untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a +little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be +parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2 +hour altogether. + +_Time_.--15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5 +minutes. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from February to June. + +[Illustration: SEA-KALE.] + + SEA-KALE.--This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows + on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the + neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use, + it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated, + and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous + to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite, + easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most + delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a + favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great + amount of saccharine matter. + +BOILED SALAD. + +1151. INGREDIENTS.--2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce, +and endive. + +[Illustration: FRENCH BEANS.] + +[Illustration: CHERVIL.] + +_Mode_.--Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut the +celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-bowl or +dish; pour over either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnish +the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched endive, or a few +tufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less agreeable than +vegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, however +they may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove to some people +indigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, may be added +to the above salad with advantage, as also slices of cold meat, poultry, +or fish. + +_Seasonable_ from July to October. + + ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES.--By the term Acetarious vegetables, is + expressed a numerous class of plants, of various culture and + habit, which are principally used as salads, pickles, and + condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of + comparative luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable + for their coolness, or their agreeable flavour, than for their + nutritive powers. + + CAULIFLOWER.--The cauliflower is less indigestible than the + cabbage; it possesses a most agreeable flavour, and is + sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy. + It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as + it induces flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and + delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as + possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways; and, in + selecting them, the whitest should be chosen; those tinged with + green or yellow being of indifferent quality. + +SUMMER SALAD. + +1152. INGREDIENTS.--3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of mustard-and-cress, 10 +young radishes, a few slices of cucumber. + +[Illustration: SALAD IN BOWL.] + +_Mode_.--Let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, and, if at +all stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two, +which will very much refresh them. Wash and carefully pick them over, +remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them thoroughly by +swinging them gently in a clean cloth. With a silver knife, cut the +lettuces into small pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers into thin +slices; arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish, with the +mustard-and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of the +sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to be +eaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, sliced +cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many other things +that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish. In +making a good salad, care must be taken to have the herbs freshly +gathered, and _thoroughly drained_ before the sauce is added to them, or +it will be watery and thin. Young spring onions, cut small, are by many +persons considered an improvement to salads; but, before these are +added, the cook should always consult the taste of her employer. Slices +of cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient and +quickly-made summer luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, will also be +found exceedingly nice, mixed with it. + +_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensive +when the herbs are forced. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from May to September. + + CUCUMBERS.--The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious + nor digestible, and should be excluded from the regimen of the + delicate. There are various modes of preparing cucumbers. When + gathered young, they are called gherkins: these, pickled, are + much used in seasonings. + + [Illustration: CUCUMBER-SLICE.] + + RADISHES.--This is the common name given to the root of the + _Raphanus satious_, one of the varieties of the cultivated + horseradish. There are red and white radishes; and the French + have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the + black are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the same + constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and + nitrogen; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of + these that their flavour depends. They do not agree with people, + except those who are in good health, and have active digestive + powers; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause + flatulency and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten + to excess. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes, but + rarely, boiled; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for + salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally, + without cultivation; and may be occasionally met with in England + as a weed, in similar places to where the wild turnip grows; it, + however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes + best is a deep open loam, or a well-manured sandy soil. + +[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES.] + +[Illustration: LONG RADISHES.] + +WINTER SALAD. + +1153. INGREDIENTS.--Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot, 3 or 4 +hard-boiled eggs, celery. + +_Mode_.--The above ingredients form the principal constituents of a +winter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicely +contrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shred +the celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut away +all wormeaten pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free from +grit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish; +garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of which should be +cut in slices; and pour into the dish, but not over the salad, either of +the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad long before it is +required for table, as, by standing, it loses its freshness and pretty +crisp and light appearance; the sauce, however, may always be prepared a +few hours beforehand, and when required for use, the herbs laid lightly +over it. + +_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from the end of September to March. + + SALADS.--Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the + lettuce is the most generally used; several others, however, + such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c., are occasionally + employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment + on the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power + upon that organ, they are usually dressed with some condiments, + such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. Respecting the + use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to + oil, which is condemned by some and recommended by others. + +POTATO SALAD. + +1154. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls of +tarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper and +salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley. + +_Mode_.--Cut the potatoes into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; put +these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion; +season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley; stir the +salad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, and +it is ready to serve. This should be made two or three hours before it +is wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be added to this +salad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +CHICKEN SALAD.--(See No. 931.) + +GROUSE SALAD.--(See No. 1020.) + +LOBSTER SALAD.--(See No. 272.) + + +TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode). + +1155. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of +salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste. + +[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROUTONS.] + +_Mode_.--Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are +left amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it being +gritty, act in the following manner:--Have ready two large pans or tubs +filled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly +wash it; then, _with the hands_, take out the spinach, and put it into +the _other tub_ of water (by this means all the grit will be left at the +bottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly free +from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with +about 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from +burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with +a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for +rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it +in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach +into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir +the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, and +garnish with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with +the butter. + +_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from +November to March. + +_Note_.--Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added +to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served with +spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be +garnished with sippets of toasted bread.--See coloured plate U. + + VARIETIES OF SPINACH.--These comprise the Strawberry spinach, + which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our + flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the + Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The + Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native + of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its + leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the + Brassica tribe. + +SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Francaise. + +1156. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 +oz. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of pounded +sugar, a very little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop it +finely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir over a gentle +fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining +ingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding the +cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, and +garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to stew with +the cream. + +_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from +November to March. + +[Illustration: SPINACH.] + + SPINACH.--This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our + gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of + vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily + digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties + have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and + very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for + the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the + rich. + + SPINACH.--This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the + _Salsolaceae_, or saltworts, and is classified under the head of + _Spirolobeae_, with leaves shaped like worms, and of a succulent + kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in + extratropical and temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in + waste places, and among rubbish, and in marshes by the seashore. + In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them are used + as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their + medicinal properties. + +FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH. + +1157. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 +oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy; +when liked, a very little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, and +when quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the water +that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a stewpan, +and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire, and dredge in +the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil _quickly_ for a few minutes, +that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg is liked, grate +some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy has dried +away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in +the gravy. + +_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from +October to February. + +_Note_.--For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach, dressed by the +above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be turned +out quickly, and served very hot. + + +BAKED TOMATOES. + +(_Excellent_.) + +1158. INGREDIENTS.--8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of +butter, bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thick +slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoning +of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the whole +with bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in a +moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. This +vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all +kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may +be baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced, +much earlier. + +[Illustration: THE TOMATO.] + + TOMATOES.--The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is + now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin + is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour, + has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used + both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an + _entremets_; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its + flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally + approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily. + From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in + France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then + hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there + they ripen. + +HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUREE OF TOMATOES. + +(See No. 529.) + +[Illustration: STEWED TOMATOES.] + +STEWED TOMATOES. + +I. + +1159. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of +butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Slice the tomatoes into a _lined_ saucepan; season them with +pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the lid +down closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are +perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and serve +with any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a delicious +accompaniment. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October; but may be had, forced, much +earlier. + + ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.--The fruit of the love-apple is the only + part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a + particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant + extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, + muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an + alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its + juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so + powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting. + +II. + +1160. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickening +of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a wide +stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, and +stew gently until they are tender, occasionally _carefully_ turning +them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a little +butter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up after +the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should be +served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced, +much earlier. + + THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--This vegetable is a native of Mexico + and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where + it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this + country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the + more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable + forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will + its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it + is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the + best pickles. + +TRUFFLES AU NATUREL. + +1161. INGREDIENTS.--Truffles, buttered paper. + +_Mode_.--Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in +several waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit +remains on them; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot +oven for quite an hour; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve +them in a hot napkin. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + +[Illustration: TRUFFLES.] + + THE COMMON TRUFFLE.--This is the _Tuber cibarium_ of science, + and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi + distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity + of their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon + analysis, they are found not only to contain the usual + components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and + hydrogen, but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen; from + which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh. + It was long ago observed by Dr. Darwin, that all the mushrooms + cooked at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup, + possessed an animal flavour; and soup enriched by mushrooms only + has sometimes been supposed to contain meat. + +TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE. + +1162. INGREDIENTS.--12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 +carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, +1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne, +1/2 pint of stock. + +_Mode_.--Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty +smell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, until +perfectly clean. Put the bacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and the +remaining ingredients; simmer these gently for an hour, and let the +whole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drain +them on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin, +that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and +serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock, +sauces, &c.; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes of +fowl, &c. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + THE TRUFFLE.--The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom. + It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other + plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the + efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it + to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth + under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found + in many parts of France: those of Perigord Magny are the most + esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the + species,--the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of + little value. The red are very rare, and their use is + restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its + consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather + truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where + they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with + his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles. + Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable + perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and + elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection, + they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably + diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating + and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of + the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more + digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their + chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor + has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes + that opulence can offer to the epicure." The Truffle grows in + clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of + an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are + about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is + nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been + trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are + discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to + their being found, from their rutting up the ground in search of + them. + +ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES. + +1163. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt +to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely-minced +garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin +slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil, pepper, +salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake them for +nearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice, and send +them to table very hot. + +_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour. + +_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND.--In this country, the common truffle + is found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; and + they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and + chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are + imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they + are much larger and in greater perfection: they lose, however, + much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have in England been + tried to be propagated artificially, but without success. + +TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE. + +1164. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 +minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 +tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of a +penny-piece; put them into a saute pan, with the parsley, shalot, salt, +pepper, and 1 oz. of butter; stir them over the fire, that they may all +be equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off some +of the butter; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of +good gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a little cayenne; stir over the +fire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country. + +_Seasonable_ from November to March. + + USES OF THE TRUFFLE.--Like the Morel, truffles are seldom eaten + alone, but are much used in gravies, soups, and ragouts. They + are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to + powder, form a useful culinary ingredient; they, however, have + many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their + wholesomeness is, perhaps, questionable, and they should be + eaten with moderation. + +BOILED TURNIPS. + +1165. INGREDIENTS.--Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide them +into quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole. +Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above +proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork, +and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain, +and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton, +but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice and +young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above. + +_Time_.--Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20 +minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only useful for +flavouring gravies, &c. + +[Illustration: TURNIPS.] + + THE TURNIP.--This vegetable is the _Brassica Rapa_ of science, + and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to + resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to + have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an + excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where + it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and + stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they, + and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and + become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest + variety, but it is too coarse for the table. + +MASHED TURNIPS. + +1166. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water +allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or white +pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling +water, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; then +drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by +pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from +water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and put +them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, or +cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over the +fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips are +thoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after the +turnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both the +colour and flavour of this vegetable. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm +them through. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only good for +flavouring gravies. + + VEGETABLES REDUCED TO PUREE.--Persons in the flower of youth, + having healthy stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all + sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience, save, of course, in + excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the + period of youth: the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment. + Physical exercise gives an appetite, which it is necessary to + satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the + gastric organs. As old proverb says, "At twenty one can digest + iron." But for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it + is quite otherwise. Then the gastric power has considerably + diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the + process of digestion is consequently slower, and the least + excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for + several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with + difficulty, should eat them reduced to a pulp or puree, that is + to say, with their skins and tough fibres removed. Subjected to + this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create + flatulence and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience + has established the rule, that nourishment is not complete + without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would also add, + that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety: + variety pleases the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is + fatigued by looking always on one object, the ear by listening + to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the + same with the stomach: consequently, variety of food is one of + the essentials for securing good digestion. + +GERMAN MODE OF COOKING TURNIPS. + +1167. INGREDIENTS.--8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to +taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful +of flour. + +_Mode_.--Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, after +having pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper and +salt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the broth, and +simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown the above +proportion of flour with a little butter; add this to the turnips, let +them simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is usually sent +to table with this vegetable, and may be cooked with the turnips by +placing it in the midst of them: the meat would then be very delicious, +as, there being so little liquid with the turnips, it would almost be +steamed, and consequently very tender. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per bunch. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year. + + TURNIPS.--Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet. + The best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage, uniting with the + aroma a slightly acid quality, which is completely neutralized + in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks + stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful + in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral + irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft, + porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad. + +TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. + +(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.) + +1168. INGREDIENTS.--7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of white +sauce, No. 538 or 539. + +_Mode_.--Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles; boil +them in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter, until +tender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour over +the white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to which has been +added a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other vegetables are +scarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish: when +approved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the turnips. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 side-dish. _Seasonable_ in winter. + + THE FRENCH NAVET.--This is a variety of the turnip; but, instead + of being globular, has more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour + being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups + and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much + flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when + stewed in gravy, they are greatly relished. This flavour resides + in the rind, which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was + once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our + gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a + yellowish-white colour, and is sometimes imported to the London + market. + +BOILED TURNIP GREENS. + +1169. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens. + +_Mode_.--Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off all +the decayed and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches, and put them +into plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep them +boiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and when +tender, pour them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in a +vegetable-dish, remove the string that the greens were tied with, and +serve. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. for a dish for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in March, April, and May. + + CABBAGE, TURNIP-TOPS, AND GREENS.--All the cabbage tribe, which + comprises coleworts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and + turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young, + when they have a rapid growth; but, if they have stood the + summer, in order to be tender, they should be allowed to have a + touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and + several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is heavy, + and a long time digesting, which has led to a belief that it is + very nourishing. It is only fit food for robust and active + persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it. + Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways: it serves as a + garniture to several recherche dishes,--partridge and cabbage + for example. Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish; but + only a good stomach can digest it. + +BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW. + +1170. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped +tablespoonful of salt; vegetable marrows. + +[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW ON TOAST.] + +_Mode_.--Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above +proportion; put in the marrows after peeling them, and boil them until +quite tender. Take them up with a slice, halve, and, should they be very +large, quarter them. Dish them on toast, and send to table with them a +tureen of melted butter, or, in lieu of this, a small pat of salt +butter. Large vegetable marrows may be preserved throughout the winter +by storing them in a dry place; when wanted for use, a few slices should +be cut and boiled in the same manner as above; but, when once begun, the +marrow must be eaten quickly, as it keeps but a short time after it is +cut. Vegetable marrows are also very delicious mashed: they should be +boiled, then drained, and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat them +in a saucepan, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small piece of +butter, and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as a +garnish. + +_Time_.--Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20 minutes; old ones, 1/2 to 3/4 +hour. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 moderate-sized marrow for each person. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be preserved all +the winter. + + +FRIED VEGETABLE MARROW. + +1171. INGREDIENTS.--3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and bread +crumbs, hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water; then +drain them and cut them in quarters, and take out the seeds. When +thoroughly drained, brush the marrows over with egg, and sprinkle with +bread crumbs; have ready some hot lard, fry the marrow in this, and, +when of a nice brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and +serve. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. + +[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.] + + THE VEGETABLE MARROW.--This vegetable is now extensively used, + and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the _C. ovifera_ of science, + and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash, is widely + diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the + nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of + the cucumber. + +CUT VEGETABLES FOR SOUPS, &c. + +[Illustration: VEGETABLE-CUTTER.] + +1172. The annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vegetables +for soups, ragouts, stews, &c.; carrots and turnips being the usual +vegetables for which this utensil is used. Cut the vegetables into +slices about 1/4 inch in thickness, stamp them out with the cutter, and +boil them for a few minutes in salt and water, until tender. Turnips +should be cut in rather thicker slices than carrots, on account of the +former boiling more quickly to a pulp than the latter. + + CARROTS.--Several species of carrots are cultivated,--the red, + the yellow, and the which. Those known as the Crecy carrots are + considered the best, and are very sweet. The carrot has been + classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables, and as + difficult of digestion. When the root becomes old, it is almost + as hard as wood; but the young carrot, which has not reached its + full growth, is tender, relishing, nutritious, and digests well + when properly cooked. + +VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE. + +1173. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, 1/2 pint of white +sauce, No. 539. + +[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE.] + +_Mode_.--Pare the marrows; cut them in halves, and shape each half at +the top in a point, leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand upright +in the dish. Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender; take them +up very carefully, and arrange them on a hot dish. Have ready 1/2 pint +of white sauce, made by recipe No. 539; pour this over the marrows, and +serve. + +_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. per dozen. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. + + +BOILED INDIAN WHEAT or MAIZE. + +1174. INGREDIENTS.--The ears of young and green Indian wheat; to every +1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious dishes +brought to table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain; and we +wonder that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is not invariably +cultivated. Our sun, it is true, possesses hardly power sufficient to +ripen maize; but, with well-prepared ground, and in a favourable +position, it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumn +to serve as a vegetable. The outside sheath being taken off and the +waving fibres removed, let the ears be placed in boiling water, where +they should remain for about 25 minutes (a longer time may be necessary +for larger ears than ordinary); and, when sufficiently boiled and well +drained, they may be sent to table whole, and with a piece of toast +underneath them. Melted butter should be served with them. + +_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_.--Seldom bought. + +_Sufficient_,--1 ear for each person. _Seasonable_ in autumn. + +_Note_.--William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, was +a great cultivator and admirer of maize, and constantly ate it as a +vegetable, boiled. We believe he printed a special recipe for it, but we +have been unable to lay our hands on it. Mr. Buchanan, the present +president of the United States, was in the habit, when ambassador here, +of receiving a supply of Indian corn from America in hermetically-sealed +cases; and the publisher of this work remembers, with considerable +satisfaction, his introduction to a dish of this vegetable, when in +America. He found it to combine the excellences of the young green pea +and the finest asparagus; but he felt at first slightly awkward in +holding the large ear with one hand, whilst the other had to be employed +in cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXVI. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. + +1175. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, familiar as they may be, and unimportant as +they may be held in the estimation of some, are yet intimately connected +with the development of agricultural resources in reference to the +cereal grasses. When they began to be made is uncertain; but we may +safely presume, that a simple form of pudding was amongst the first +dishes made after discovering a mode of grinding wheat into flour. +Traditional history enables us to trace man back to the time of the +Deluge. After that event he seems to have recovered himself in the +central parts of Asia, and to have first risen to eminence in the arts +of civilization on the banks of the Nile. From this region, Greece, +Carthage, and some other parts along the shores of the Mediterranean +Sea, were colonized. In process of time, Greece gave to the Romans the +arts which she had thus received from Egypt, and these subsequently +diffused them over Europe. How these were carried to or developed in +India and China, is not so well ascertained; and in America their +ancient existence rests only on very indistinct traditions. As to who +was the real discoverer of the use of corn, we have no authentic +knowledge. The traditions of different countries ascribe it to various +fabulous personages, whose names it is here unnecessary to introduce. In +Egypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly; for Abraham, and after +him Jacob, had recourse to that country for supplies during times of +famine. + +1176. THE HABITS OF A PEOPLE, to a great extent, are formed by the +climate in which they live, and by the native or cultivated productions +in which their country abounds. Thus we find that the agricultural +produce of the ancient Egyptians is pretty much the same as that of the +present day, and the habits of the people are not materially altered. In +Greece, the products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds of +grains and legumes as are cultivated at present, with the vine, the fig, +the olive, the apple, and other fruits. So with the Romans, and so with +other nations. As to the different modes of artificially preparing those +to please the taste, it is only necessary to say that they arise from +the universal desire of novelty, characteristic of man in the +development of his social conditions. Thus has arisen the whole science +of cookery, and thus arose the art of making puddings. The porridge of +the Scotch is nothing more than a species of hasty pudding, composed of +oatmeal, salt, and water; and the "red pottage" for which Esau sold his +birthright, must have been something similar. The barley-gruel of the +Lacedaemonians, of the Athenian gladiators and common people, was the +same, with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond the +simplicity of Scottish fare. Here is the ancient recipe for the Athenian +national dish:--"Dry near the fire, in the oven, twenty pounds of +barley-flour; then parch it; add three pounds of linseed-meal, half a +pound of coriander-seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of water +necessary." To this sometimes a little millet was added, in order to +give the paste greater cohesion and delicacy. + +1177. OATMEAL AMONGST THE GREEKS AND ROMANS was highly esteemed, as was +also rice, which they considered as beneficial to the chest. They also +held in high repute the Irion, or Indian wheat of the moderns. The flour +of this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding, and, parched or +roasted, as eaten with a little salt. The Spelt, or Red wheat, was +likewise esteemed, and its flour formed the basis of the Carthaginian +pudding, for which we here give the scientific recipe:--"Put a pound of +red-wheat flour into water, and when it has steeped some time, transfer +it to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds of cream cheese, half a pound of +honey, and one egg. Beat the whole together, and cook it on a slow fire +in a stewpan." Should this be considered unpalatable, another form has +been recommended. "Sift the flour, and, with some water, put it into a +wooden vessel, and, for ten days, renew the water twice each day. At the +end of that period, press out the water and place the paste in another +vessel. It is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees, and +passed through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last operation, then +dry the mass in the sun and boil it in milk. Season according to taste." +These are specimens of the puddings of antiquity, and this last recipe +was held in especial favour by the Romans. + +1178. HOWEVER GREAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE QUALIFICATIONS of the ancients, +however, in the art of pudding-making, we apprehend that such +preparations as gave gratification to their palates, would have +generally found little favour amongst the insulated inhabitants of Great +Britain. Here, from the simple suet dumpling up to the most complicated +Christmas production, the grand feature of substantiality is primarily +attended to. Variety in the ingredients, we think, is held only of +secondary consideration with the great body of the people, provided that +the whole is agreeable and of sufficient abundance. + +1179. ALTHOUGH FROM PUDDINGS TO PASTRY is but a step, it requires a +higher degree of art to make the one than to make the other. Indeed, +pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science. It +unceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight as +well as to the taste; with erecting graceful monuments, miniature +fortresses, and all kinds of architectural imitations, composed of the +sweetest and most agreeable products of all climates and countries. At a +very early period, the Orientals were acquainted with the art of +manipulating in pastry; but they by no means attained to the taste, +variety, and splendour of design, by which it is characterized amongst +the moderns. At first it generally consisted of certain mixtures of +flour, oil, and honey, to which it was confined for centuries, even +among the southern nations of the European continent. At the +commencement of the middle ages, a change began to take place in the art +of mixing it. Eggs, butter, and salt came into repute in the making of +paste, which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat, seasoned with +spices. This advance attained, the next step was to inclose cream, +fruit, and marmalades; and the next, to build pyramids and castles; when +the summit of the art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have been +achieved. + + +DIRECTIONS IN CONNECTION WITH THE MAKING OF PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. + +1180. A few general remarks respecting the various ingredients of which +puddings and pastry are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary to +the recipes in this department of Household Management. + +1181. _Flour_ should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and +sifted before being used; if in the least damp, the paste made from it +will certainly be heavy. + +1182. _Butter_, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt, +and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water and +buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy. + +1183. _Lard_ should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by +cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard is +good. + +1184. _Suet_ should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, and +quite sweet; during the process of chopping, it should be lightly +dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together. +Beef suet is considered the best; but veal suet, or the outside fat of a +loin or neck of mutton, makes good crusts; as also the skimmings in +which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but _without_ vegetables. + +1185. _Clarified Beef Dripping_, directions for which will be found in +recipes Nos. 621 and 622, answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings, +cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixing +with it a small quantity of moist sugar; but care must be taken to use +the dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable flavour will be imparted +to the paste. + +1186. Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making; all the +utensils used should be perfectly free from dust and dirt, and the +things required for pastry, kept entirely for that purpose. + +[Illustration: PASTE-BOARD AND ROLLING-PIN.] + +1187. In mixing paste, add the water very gradually, work the whole +together with the knife-blade, and knead it until perfectly smooth. +Those who are inexperienced in pastry-making, should work the butter in +by breaking it in small pieces and covering the paste rolled out. It +should then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded over and rolled +out very thin again: this process must be repeated until all the butter +is used. + +[Illustration: PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF +PIE-CRUSTS.] + +1188. The art of making paste requires much practice, dexterity, and +skill: it should be touched as lightly as possible, made with cool hands +and in a cool place (a marble slab is better than a board for the +purpose), and the coolest part of the house should be selected for the +process during warm weather. + +1189. To insure rich paste being light, great expedition must be used in +the making and baking; for if it stand long before it is put in the +oven, it becomes flat and heavy. + +[Illustration: PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER.] + +[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER.] + +1190. _Puff-paste_ requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it would +blacken the crust; on the other hand, if the oven be too slack, the +paste will be soddened, and will not rise, nor will it have any colour. +Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked puddings, pattypans, &c., +should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put in +them: things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper. +Raised-pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste glazed must have +rather a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched. It is better to ice +tarts, &c. when they are three-parts baked. + +[Illustration: PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED.] + +[Illustration: PIE-DISH.] + +[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD.] + +[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN.] + +1191. To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree for +puff-paste, put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the +whole, and then the heat can thus be judged of. + +1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as +one bad article will taint the whole mixture. + +1193. When the _freshness_ of eggs is _doubtful_, break each one +separately in a cup, before mixing them altogether. Should there be a +bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the +good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks and whites +beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter. + +1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, +and, in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed, pressed in a +cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they +should then be picked carefully over, and _every piece of grit or stone_ +removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water +over them, and then dry them before the fire. + +1195. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To +insure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, +and add the remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very lumpy, it +may be strained through a hair sieve. + +1196. _All boiled puddings_ should be put on in _boiling water_, which +must not be allowed to stop simmering, and the pudding must always be +covered with the water; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filled +up. + +[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.] + +1197. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom +of the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and set +the pan _on a trivet_ over the fire. If a mould is used, this precaution +is not necessary; but care must be taken to keep the pudding well +covered with water. + +1198. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot, +dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere to +it. Great expedition is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, by +standing, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly. + +[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.] + +1199. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins, should +be always buttered before the mixture is put in them, and they should be +put into the saucepan directly they are filled. + +1200. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness of +pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this particular, the outsides of +boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeably. As soon as possible +after it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, and +then well washed, without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should be +dried out of doors, then folded up and kept in a dry place. When wanted +for use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour. + +[Illustration: PUDDING-BASIN.] + +1201. The _dry ingredients_ for puddings are better for being mixed some +time before they are wanted; the liquid portion should only be added +just before the pudding is put into the saucepan. + +1202. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of puddings; +but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavour +should not be detected. + +1203. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the +dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them fine +sifted sugar. + +1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the +outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white +paper until thoroughly cooked: this prevents them from getting burnt. + +[Illustration] + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + + +VERY GOOD PUFF-PASTE. + +1205. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1 lb. of butter, and not +quite 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Carefully weigh the flour and butter, and have the exact +proportion; squeeze the butter well, to extract the water from it, and +afterwards wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture may remain. Sift +the flour; see that it is perfectly dry, and proceed in the following +manner to make the paste, using a very _clean_ paste-board and +rolling-pin:--Supposing the quantity to be 1 lb. of flour, work the +whole into a smooth paste, with not quite 1/2 pint of water, using a +knife to mix it with: the proportion of this latter ingredient must be +regulated by the discretion of the cook; if too much be added, the +paste, when baked, will be tough. Roll it out until it is of an equal +thickness of about an inch; break 4 oz. of the butter into small pieces; +place these on the paste, sift over it a little flour, fold it over, +roll out again, and put another 4 oz. of butter. Repeat the rolling and +buttering until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, or equal +quantities of flour and butter have been used. Do not omit, every time +the paste is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over that and the +rolling-pin, to prevent both from sticking. Handle the paste as lightly +as possible, and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin. The +next thing to be considered is the oven, as the baking of pastry +requires particular attention. Do not put it into the oven until it is +sufficiently hot to raise the paste; for the best-prepared paste, if not +properly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the paste as often as +rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white of +an egg, assists it to rise in _leaves_ or _flakes_. As this is the great +beauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try this method. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per lb. + + BUTTER.--About the second century of the Christian era, butter + was placed by Galen amongst the useful medical agents; and about + a century before him, Dioscorides mentioned that he had noticed + that fresh butter, made of ewes' and goats' milk, was served at + meals instead of oil, and that it took the place of fat in + making pastry. Thus we have undoubted authority that, eighteen + hundred years ago, there existed a knowledge of the useful + qualities of butter. The Romans seem to have set about making it + much as we do; for Pliny tells us, "Butter is made from milk; + and the use of this element, so much sought after by barbarous + nations, distinguished the rich from the common people. It is + obtained principally from cows' milk; that from ewes is the + fattest; goats also supply some. It is produced by agitating the + milk in long vessels with narrow openings: a little water is + added." + +MEDIUM PUFF-PASTE. + +1206. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, 4 oz. +of lard, not quite 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--This paste may be made by the directions in the preceding +recipe, only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion of +it. Mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite 1/2 pint of water; +then roll it out 3 times, the first time covering the paste with butter, +the second with lard, and the third with butter. Keep the rolling-pin +and paste slightly dredged with flour, to prevent them from sticking, +and it will be ready for use. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + + BUTTER IN HASTE.--In his "History of Food," Soyer says that to + obtain butter instantly, it is only necessary, in summer, to put + new milk into a bottle, some hours after it has been taken from + the cow, and shake it briskly. The clots which are thus formed + should be thrown into a sieve, washed and pressed together, and + they constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can + possibly be made. + +COMMON PASTE, for Family Pies. + +1207. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, rather more +than 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter lightly into the flour, and mix it to a smooth +paste with the water; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will be ready for +use. This paste may be converted into an excellent short crust for sweet +tart, by adding to the flour, after the butter is rubbed in, 2 +tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + + TO KEEP BUTTER FRESH.--One of the best means to preserve butter + fresh is, first to completely press out all the buttermilk, then + to keep it under water, renewing the water frequently, and to + remove it from the influence of heat and air, by wrapping it in + a wet cloth. + +FRENCH PUFF-PASTE, or FEUILLETAGE. + +(Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.) + +1208. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of flour and butter--say 1 lb. of +each; 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than +1/4 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Weigh the flour; ascertain that it is perfectly _dry_, and sift +it; squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean cloth +till there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the paste-board, +work lightly into it 2 oz. of the butter, and then make a hole in the +centre; into this well put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about 1/4 +pint of water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regulated +by the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of it); +knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll it +out square to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Presuming that the butter +is perfectly free from moisture, and _as cool_ as possible, roll it into +a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; fold the paste over +the butter all round, and secure it by wrapping it well all over. +Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it is +quite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through, +and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during the +process of making it. This rolling gives it the _first_ turn. Now fold +the paste in three, and roll out again, and, should the weather be very +warm, put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the several +turns; for, unless this is particularly attended to, the paste will be +spoiled. Roll out the paste again _twice_, put it by to cool, then roll +it out _twice_ more, which will make 6 _turnings_ in all. Now fold the +paste in two, and it will be ready for use. If properly baked and well +made, this crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5 +or 6 inches. The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance, +as the ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention must +also be paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a liquid +and soft state, the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook be +dexterous enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a much +better appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butter +into 4 parts, and placing it over the rolled-out paste; but, until +experience has been acquired, we recommend puff-paste made by recipe No. +1205. The above paste is used for vols-au-vent, small articles of +pastry, and, in fact, everything that requires very light crust. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per lb. + + WHAT TO DO WITH RANCID BUTTER.--When butter has become very + rancid, it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, + with or without the addition of water, and as soon as it has + been well kneaded, after the cooling, in order to extract any + water it may have retained, it should be put into brown + freestone pots, sheltered from the contact of the air. The + French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of + toasted bread, which helps to destroy the tendency of the batter + to rancidity. + +SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE. + +1209. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow the yolk of 1 egg, the +juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, cold water, 1 lb. of fresh +butter. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, +into which put the yolk of the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt; mix the +whole with cold water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient) +into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle it as little +as possible; then squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter, wring it +in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the butter on this, and fold +the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out again to the +thickness of 1/4 inch; fold over one third, over which again pass the +rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square; +place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a little +flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again, +as before. Flour a baking-sheet, put the paste on this, and let it +remain on ice or in some cool place for 1/2 hour; then roll twice more, +turning it as before; place it again upon the ice for 1/4 hour, give it +2 more rolls, making 7 in all, and it is ready for use when required. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per lb. + + +VERY GOOD SHORT CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS. + +1210. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 3/4 lb. of butter, 1 +tablespoonful of sifted sugar, 1/3 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, after having ascertained that +the latter is perfectly dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole into a +stiff paste, with about 1/3 pint of water. Roll it out two or three +times, folding the paste over each time, and it will be ready for use. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 1d. per lb. + +ANOTHER GOOD SHORT CRUST. + +1211. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, the +yolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, about 1/4 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the whole +as lightly as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs well +beaten, and the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient must be +judged of by the size of the eggs: if these are large, so much will not +be required, and more if the eggs are smaller. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + + SUGAR AND BEETROOT.--There are two sorts of Beet,--white and + red; occasionally, in the south, a yellow variety is met with. + Beetroot contains twenty parts sugar. Everybody knows that the + beet has competed with the sugar-cane, and a great part of the + French sugar is manufactured from beet. Beetroot has a + refreshing, composing, and slightly purgative quality. The young + leaves, when cooked, are a substitute for spinach; they are also + useful for mixing with sorrel, to lessen its acidity. The large + ribs of the leaves are serviceable in various culinary + preparations; the root also may be prepared in several ways, but + its most general use is in salad. Some writers upon the subject + have expressed their opinion that beetroot is easily digested, + but those who have taken pains to carefully analyze its + qualities make quite a contrary statement. Youth, of course, can + digest it; but to persons of a certain age beet is very + indigestible, or rather, it does not digest at all. It is not + the sugary pulp which is indigestible, but its fibrous network + that resists the action of the gastric organs. Thus, when the + root is reduced to a puree, almost any person may eat it. + + FRENCH SUGAR.--It had long been thought that tropical heat was + not necessary to form sugar, and, about 1740, it was discovered + that many plants of the temperate zone, and amongst others the + beet, contained it. Towards the beginning of the 19th century, + circumstances having, in France, made sugar scarce, and + consequently dear, the government caused inquiries to be + instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it. + Accordingly, it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole + vegetable kingdom; that it is to be found in the grape, + chestnut, potato; but that, far above all, the beet contains it + in a large proportion. Thus the beet became an object of the + most careful culture; and many experiments went to prove that in + this respect the old world was independent of the new. Many + manufactories came into existence in all parts of France, and + the making of sugar became naturalized in that country. + +COMMON SHORT CRUST. + +1212. INGREDIENTS.--To every pound of flour allow 2 oz. of sifted sugar, +3 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of boiling milk. + +_Mode_.--Crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible, add +the sugar, and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boiling +milk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a moderate oven. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + + QUALITIES OF SUGAR.--Sugars obtained from various plants are in + fact, of the same nature, and have no intrinsic difference when + they have become equally purified by the same processes. Taste, + crystallization, colour, weight, are absolutely identical; and + the most accurate observer cannot distinguish the one from the + other. + +BUTTER CRUST, for Boiled Puddings. + +1213. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of butter, 1/2 +pint of water. + +_Mode_.--With a knife, work the flour to a smooth paste with 1/2 pint of +water; roll the crust out rather thin; place the butter over it in small +pieces; dredge lightly over it some flour, and fold the paste over; +repeat the rolling once more, and the crust will be ready for use. It +may be enriched by adding another 2 oz. of butter; but, for ordinary +purposes, the above quantity will be found quite sufficient. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per lb. + + +DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c. + +1214. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of clarified beef +dripping, 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--After having clarified the dripping, by either of the recipes +No. 621 or 622, weigh it, and to every lb. of flour allow the above +proportion of dripping. With a knife, work the flour into a smooth paste +with the water, rolling it out 3 times, each time placing on the crust 2 +oz. of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste is lightly +made, if good dripping is used, and _not too much_ of it, it will be +found good; and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine moist +sugar, it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit pies. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per pound. + + WATER:--WHAT THE ANCIENTS THOUGHT OF IT.--All the nations of + antiquity possessed great veneration for water: thus, the + Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water, and the Nile was + an especial object of their adoration; the Persians would not + wash their hands; the Scythians honoured the Danube; the Greeks + and Romans erected altars to the fountains and rivers; and some + of the architectural embellishments executed for fountains in + Greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy. The purity + of the water was a great object of the care of the ancients; and + we learn that the Athenians appointed four officers to keep + watch and ward over the water in their city. These men had to + keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs, so that + the water might be preserved pure and limpid. Like officers were + appointed in other Greek cities. + +SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings. + +1215. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 5 or 6 oz. of beef suet, +1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Free the suet from skin and shreds; chop it extremely fine, and +rub it well into the flour; work the whole to a smooth paste with the +above proportion of water; roll it out, and it is ready for use. This +crust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes, but when a better one +is desired, use from 1/2 to 3/4 lb. of suet to every lb. of flour. Some +cooks, for rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, with a small +quantity of butter. It should then be laid on the paste in small pieces, +the same as for puff-crust, and will be found exceedingly nice for hot +tarts. 5 oz. of suet to every lb. of flour will make a very good crust; +and even 1/4 lb. will answer very well for children, or where the crust +is wanted very plain. + +_Average cost_, 5d. per lb. + + +PATE BRISEE, or FRENCH CRUST, for Raised Pies. + +1216. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 saltspoonful of +salt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of water, 6 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly dry, on +the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the butter; +work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the salt; work +the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yolks and whites) and +water, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and let it be rather +stiff, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised, and that they do +not afterwards tumble or shrink. + +_Average cost_, 1s. per lb. + +_Note_.--This paste may be very much enriched by making it with equal +quantities of flour and butter; but then it is not so easily raised as +when made plainer. + + WATER SUPPLY IN ROME.--Nothing in Italy is more extraordinary + than the remains of the ancient aqueducts. At first, the Romans + were contented with the water from the Tiber. Ancus Martius was + the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to + convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, + a distance of some 33,000 paces. Appius Claudius continued the + good work, and to him is due the completion of the celebrated + Appian Way. In time, the gigantic waterways greatly multiplied, + and, by the reign of Nero, there were constructed nine principal + aqueducts, the pipes of which were of bricks, baked tiles, + stone, lead, or wood. According to the calculation of Vigenerus, + half a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into Rome every + day, by upwards of 10,000 small pipes not one-third of an inch + in diameter. The water was received in large closed basins, + above which rose splendid monuments: these basins supplied other + subterranean conduits, connected with various quarters of the + city, and these conveyed water to small reservoirs furnished + with taps for the exclusive use of certain streets. The water + which was not drinkable ran out, by means of large pipes, into + extensive inclosures, where it served to water cattle. At these + places the people wished their linen; and here, too, was a + supply of the necessary element in case of fire. + +COMMON CRUST FOR RAISED PIES. + +1217. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 pint of water, 1-1/2 +oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of lard, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan the water; when it boils, add the butter +and lard; and when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of the +flour; pour in the water gradually; beat it well with a wooden spoon, +and be particular in not making the paste too soft. When it is well +mixed, knead it with the hands until quite stiff, dredging a little +flour over the paste and board, to prevent them from sticking. When it +is well kneaded, place it before the fire, with a cloth covered over it, +for a few minutes; it will then be more easily worked into shape. This +paste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one, but is worked with +greater facility, and answers just as well for raised pies, for the +crust is seldom eaten. + +_Average cost_, 5d, per lb. + +LARD OR FLEAD CRUST. + +1218. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of lard or +flead, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Clear the flead free from skin, and slice it into thin flakes; +rub it into the flour, add the salt, and work the whole into a smooth +paste, with the above proportion of water; fold the paste over two or +three times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, roll it out, and it will +be ready for use. The crust made from this will be found extremely +light, and may be made into cakes or tarts; it may also be very much +enriched by adding more flead to the same proportion of flour. + +_Average cost_, 8d. per lb. + + NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES OF FLOUR.--The gluten of grain and the + albumen of vegetable juices are identical in composition with + the albumen of blood. Vegetable caseine has also the composition + of animal caseine. The finest wheat flour contains more starch + than the coarser; the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in + gluten. Rye and rye-bread contain a substance resembling + starch-gum (or dextrine, as it is called) in its properties, + which is very easily converted into sugar. The starch of barley + approaches in many properties to cellulose, and is, therefore, + less digestible. Oats are particularly rich in plastic + substances; Scotch oats are richer than those grown in England + or in Germany. This kind of grain contains in its ashes, after + deduction of the silica of the husks, very nearly the same + ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice of flesh. + Fine American flour is one of the varieties which is richest in + gluten, and is consequently one of the most nutritious. + +ALMOND CHEESECAKES. + +1219. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter ones, 3 eggs, 2 +oz. of butter, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 +oz. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar, with a +little rose- or spring-water; stir in the eggs, which should be well +beaten, and the butter, which should be warmed; add the grated +lemon-peel and -juice, sweeten, and stir well until the whole is +thoroughly mixed. Line some pattypans with puff-paste, put in the +mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or rather less in a quick oven. + +_Time_.--20 minutes, or rather less. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for about 12 cheesecakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: ALMOND AND BLOSSOM.] + + ALMONDS.--Almonds are the fruit of the _Amygdalus commenis_, and + are cultivated throughout the whole of the south of Europe, + Syria, Persia, and Northern Africa; but England is mostly + supplied with those which are grown in Spain and the south of + France. They are distinguished into Sweet and Bitter, the + produce of different varieties. Of the sweet, there are two + varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of Jordan and + Valentia almonds. The former are imported from Malaga, and are + longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than + the latter, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are + principally obtained from Morocco, and are exported from + Mogador. + +ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course Dishes. + +1220. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1 lb. of very +finely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and dry them thoroughly; put them into a +mortar, and pound them well, wetting them gradually with the whites of 2 +eggs. When well pounded, put them into a small preserving-pan, add the +sugar, and place the pan on a small but clear fire (a hot-plate is +better); keep stirring until the paste is dry, then take it out of the +pan, put it between two dishes, and, when cold, make it into any shape +that fancy may dictate. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. for the above quantity. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 small dishes of pastry. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + BITTER ALMONDS.--The Bitter Almond is a variety of the common + almond, and is injurious to animal life, on account of the great + quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains, and is consequently + seldom used in domestic economy, unless it be to give flavour to + confectionery; and even then it should he used with great + caution. A single drop of the essential oil of bitter almonds is + sufficient to destroy a bird, and four drops have caused the + death of a middle-sized dog. + +BAKED ALMOND PUDDING. + +(_Very rich_.) + +1221. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of almonds, 4 bitter ditto, 1 glass of +sherry, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of butter, 1 pint +of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the water; +mix these with the butter, which should be melted; beat up the eggs, +grate the lemon-rind, and strain the juice; add these, with the cream, +sugar, and wine, to the other ingredients, and stir them well together. +When well mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-paste, and bake +for 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--To make this pudding more economically, substitute milk for the +cream; but then add rather more than 1 oz. of finely grated bread. + + USES OF THE SWEET ALMOND.--The kernels of the sweet almond are + used either in a green or ripe state, and as an article in the + dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery, and medicine, + they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always be + used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for advising + this, is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or + prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and + bark of the tree. When young and green, they are preserved in + sugar, like green apricots. They furnish the almond-oil; and the + farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed, + forms the _pate d'amandes_ of perfumers. In the arts, the oil is + employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the + basis of kalydor, macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other + articles of that kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is + considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient. + +SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS. + +1222. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1/4 lb. of +butter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of +cream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. + +[Illustration: ALMOND PUDDINGS.] + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonful +of water; warm the butter, mix the almonds with this, and add the other +ingredients, leaving out the whites of 2 eggs, and be particular that +these are well beaten. Mix well, butter some cups, half fill them, and +bake the puddings from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them out on a dish, +and serve with sweet sauce. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + THE HUSKS OF ALMONDS.--In the environs of Alicante, the husks of + almonds are ground to a powder, and enter into the composition + of common soap, the large quantity of alkaline principle they + contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said + that in some parts of the south of France, where they are + extensively grown, horses and mules are fed on the green and dry + husks; but, to prevent any evil consequences arising from this + practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats. + +ALMOND PUFFS. + +1223. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of +pounded sugar, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth paste; +melt the butter, dredge in the flour, and add the sugar and pounded +almonds. Beat the mixture well, and put it into cups or very tiny +jelly-pots, which should be well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven +for about 20 minutes, or longer should the puffs be large. Turn them out +on a dish, the bottom of the puff upper-most, and serve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +AUNT NELLY'S PUDDING. + +1224. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of +suet, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel, +3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, treacle, +lemon-peel minced, and candied lemon-peel; add the cream, lemon-juice, +and 2 well-beaten eggs; beat the pudding well, put it into a buttered +basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable for a winter pudding. + + TREACLE, OR MOLASSES.--Treacle is the uncrystallizable part of + the saccharine juice drained from the Muscovado sugar, and is + either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable through some + defect in the process of boiling. As it contains a large + quantity of sweet or saccharine principle and is cheap, it is of + great use as an article of domestic economy. Children are + especially fond of it; and it is accounted wholesome. It is also + useful for making beer, rum, and the very dark syrups. + +BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Plain Family Dish). + +1225. INGREDIENTS.--6 apples, 3/4 lb.. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing +them, and make 1/2 lb. of suet-crust by recipe No. 1215; roll the apples +in the crust, previously sweetening them with moist sugar, and taking +care to join the paste nicely. When they are formed into round balls, +put them on a tin, and bake them for about 1/2 hour, or longer should +the apples be very large; arrange them pyramidically on a dish, and sift +over them some pounded white sugar. These may be made richer by using +one of the puff-pastes instead of suet. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or longer. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end of +January. + + USES OF THE APPLE.--It is well known that this fruit forms a + very important article of food, in the form of pies and + puddings, and furnishes several delicacies, such as sauces, + marmalades, and jellies, and is much esteemed as a dessert + fruit. When flattened in the form of round cakes, and baked in + ovens, they are called beefings; and large quantities are + annually dried in the sun in America, as well as in Normandy, + and stored for use during winter, when they may be stewed or + made into pies. In a roasted state they are remarkably + wholesome, and, it is said, strengthening to a weak stomach. In + putrid and malignant fevers, when used with the juice of lemons + and currants, they are considered highly efficacious. + +APPLE CHEESECAKES. + +1226. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of apple pulp, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 +lb. of butter, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and boil sufficient apples to make 1/2 lb. when +cooked; add to these the sugar, the butter, which should be melted; the +eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and take grated rind and juice of 1 +lemon; stir the mixture well; line some patty-pans with puff-paste, put +in the mixture, and bake about 20 minutes. + +_Time_.--About 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, for the above quantity, with the paste, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for about 18 or 20 cheesecakes. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.] + + THE APPLE.--The most useful of all the British fruits is the + apple, which is a native of Britain, and may be found in woods + and hedges, in the form of the common wild crab, of which all + our best apples are merely seminal varieties, produced by + culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate climates + it is very extensively cultivated, and in England, both as + regards variety and quantity, it is excellent and abundant. + Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and + from France. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are + universally admitted to be the finest of any; but unless + selected and packed with great care, they are apt to spoil + before reaching England. + +BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS. + +1227. INGREDIENTS.--6 apples, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing +them; sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece of crust, made by recipe +No. 1211; be particular that the paste is nicely joined; put the +dumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and put them into +boiling water. Keep them boiling from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; remove the +cloths, and send them hot and quickly to table. Dumplings boiled in +knitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table. +The cloths should be made square, just large enough to hold one +dumpling, and should be knitted in plain knitting, with _very coarse_ +cotton. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour, or longer should the dumplings be very large. + +_Average cost_, 11/2d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end of +January. + + LAMBSWOOL, or LAMASOOL.--This old English beverage is composed + of apples mixed with ale, and seasoned with sugar and spice. It + takes its name from _Lamaes abhal_, which, in ancient British, + signifies the day of apple fruit, from being drunk on the apple + feast in autumn. In France, a beverage, called by the Parisians + _raisinee_, is made by boiling any given quantity of new wine, + skimming it as often as fresh scum rises, and, when it is boiled + to half its bulk, straining it. To this apples, pared and cut + into quarters, are added; the whole is then allowed to simmer + gently, stirring it all the time with a long wooden spoon, till + the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor, and the whole + forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to + the taste, having a slight flavour of acidity, like lemon mixed + with honey. + +RICH BAKED APPLE PUDDING. + +I. + +1228. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of the pulp of apples, 1/2 lb. of loaf +sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste. + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce; put them into a +stewpan, with only just sufficient water to prevent them from burning, +and let them stew until reduced to a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and to every +1/2 lb. add sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, and 6 well-beaten eggs. +Beat these ingredients well together; then melt the butter, stir it to +the other things, put a border of puff-paste round the dish, and bake +for rather more than 1/2 hour. The butter should not be added until the +pudding is ready for the oven. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +II. + +(_More Economical_.) + +1229. INGREDIENTS.--12 large apples, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of +butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil them +until reduced to a pulp; then add the butter, melted, and the eggs, +which should be well whisked. Beat up the pudding for 2 or 3 minutes; +butter a pie-dish; put in a layer of bread crumbs, then the apple, and +then another layer of bread crumbs; flake over these a few tiny pieces +of butter, and bake for about 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Note_.--A very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples, +boiled and sweetened, with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel. A +layer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples, and +the pudding baked for 1/2 hour. + + CONSTITUENTS OF THE APPLE.--All apples contain sugar, malic + acid, or the acid of apples; mucilage, or gum; woody fibre, and + water; together with some aroma, on which their peculiar flavour + depends. The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw; but + by the process of cooking, a great deal of this acid is + decomposed and converted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds + form a valuable addition to the dessert. A great part of the + acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even + after it is gathered, by natural process, termed maturation; + but, when apples decay, the sugar is changed into a bitter + principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive. Old + cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when + eaten; probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia of the + cheese neutralizing its acid. + +RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING. + +1230. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of +currants, 1/2 lb. of apples, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweet +almonds, 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet very fine; wash the currants, dry them, and pick +away the stalks and pieces of grit; pare, core, and chop the apple, and +grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all these +ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat up the eggs, +omitting the whites of three; stir these to the pudding, and when all is +well mixed, add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould; +tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for 3 +hours. + +_Time_.--3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + TO PRESERVE APPLES.--The best mode of preserving apples is to + carry them at once to the fruit-room, where they should be put + upon shelves, covered with white paper, after gently wiping each + of the fruit. The room should be dry, and well aired, but should + not admit the sun. The finer and larger kinds of fruit should + not be allowed to touch each other, but should be kept separate. + For this purpose, a number of shallow trays should be provided, + supported by racks or stands above each other. In very cold + frosty weather, means should be adopted for warming the room. + +BAKED APPLE PUDDING. + +(_Very Good_.) + +1231. INGREDIENTS.--5 moderate-sized apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of +finely-chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of milk, +a little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk; add the eggs, +which should be well whisked, and put this batter into a well-buttered +pie-dish. Wipe the apples clean, but do not pare them; cut them in +halves, and take out the cores; lay them in the batter, rind uppermost; +shake the suet on the top, over which, also grate a little nutmeg; bake +in a moderate oven for an hour, and cover, when served, with sifted loaf +sugar. This pudding is also very good with the apples pared, sliced, and +mixed with the batter. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + + +BOILED APPLE PUDDING. + +1232. INGREDIENTS.--Crust No. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 small +teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of +lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Make a butter-crust by recipe No. 1213, or a suet one by recipe +No. 1215, using for a moderate-sized pudding from 3/4 to 1 lb. of flour, +with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin; line it with +some of the paste; pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and fill +the basin with these; add the sugar, the lemon-peel and juice, and cover +with crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the +pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water. +Let it boil from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size; then turn +it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple puddings may also +be boiled in a cloth without a basin; but, when made in this way, must +be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy. +Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the dinner-hour is +rather uncertain, as it does not spoil by being boiled an extra hour; +care, however, must be taken to keep it well covered with the water all +the time, and not to allow it to stop boiling. + +_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size of the pudding +and the quality of the apples. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_, made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourless and +scarce after February. + + +APPLE TART OR PIE. + +1233. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of +unpared apples allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of +finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by either of the above-named +recipes, place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish, and fill it +with apples pared, cored, and cut into slices; sweeten with moist sugar, +add the lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water; cover +with crust, cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish, and +bake in a hot oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or rather longer, should the +pie be very large. When it is three-parts done, take it out of the oven, +put the white of an egg on a plate, and, with the blade of a knife, +whisk it to a froth; brush the pie over with this, then sprinkle upon it +some sifted sugar, and then a few drops of water. Put the pie back into +the oven, and finish baking, and be particularly careful that it does +not catch or burn, which it is very liable to do after the crust is +iced. If made with a plain crust, the icing may be omitted. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 lbs. of apples for a tart for 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourless +after February. + +_Note_.--Many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie; some +say 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of beer, others the same quantity of sherry, +which very much improve the taste; whilst the old-fashioned addition of +a few cloves is, by many persons, preferred to anything else, as also a +few slices of quince. + +[Illustration: QUINCE.] + + QUINCES.--The environs of Corinth originally produced the most + beautiful quinces, but the plant was subsequently introduced + into Gaul with the most perfect success. The ancients preserved + the fruit by placing it, with its branches and leaves, in a + vessel filled with honey or sweet wine, which was reduced to + half the quantity by ebullition. Quinces may be profitably + cultivated in this country as a variety with other fruit-trees, + and may be planted in espaliers or as standards. A very + fine-flavoured marmalade may be prepared from quinces, and a + small portion of quince in apple pie much improves its flavour. + The French use quinces for flavouring many sauces. This fruit + has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeable odour, + taken singly; but when in any quantity, or when they are stowed + away in a drawer or close room, the pleasant aroma becomes an + intolerable stench, although the fruit may be perfectly sound; + it is therefore desirable that, as but a few quinces are + required for keeping, they should be kept in a high and dry + loft, and out of the way of the rooms used by the family. + +CREAMED APPLE TART. + +1234. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-crust No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of +pared and cored apples, allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of +minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 pint of boiled +custard. + +_Mode_.--Make an apple tart by the preceding recipe, with the exception +of omitting the icing. When the tart is baked, cut out the middle of the +lid or crust, leaving a border all round the dish. Fill up with a +nicely-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the +pie is ready for table. This tart is usually eaten cold; is rather an +old-fashioned dish, but, at the same time, extremely nice. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + +APPLE SNOWBALLS. + +1235. INGREDIENTS.--2 teacupfuls of rice, apples, moist sugar, cloves. + +_Mode_.--Boil the rice in milk until three-parts done; then strain it +off, and pare and core the apples without dividing them. Put a small +quantity of sugar and a clove into each apple, put the rice round them, +and tie each ball separately in a cloth. Boil until the apples are +tender; then take them up, remove the cloths, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the rice separately; 1/2 to 1 hour with the +apple. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + +APPLE TOURTE OR CAKE. + +(_German Recipe_.) + +1236. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of 1 small +lemon, 3 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, 1/4 lb. of butter, 3/4 lb. of +good short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. of sweet almonds. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into small pieces; put +sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin; add the lemon-peel, +which should be finely minced, and the cream; stir these ingredients +well, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter; mix altogether, add the +sliced apple, and let these be well stirred into the mixture. Line a +large round plate with the paste, place a narrow rim of the same round +the outer edge, and lay the apples thickly in the middle. Blanch the +almonds, cut them into long shreds, and strew over the top of the +apples, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, taking care that the almonds do +not get burnt: when done, strew some sifted sugar over the top, and +serve. This tourte may be eaten either hot or cold, and is sufficient to +fill 2 large-sized plates. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 large-sized tourtes. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + APPLES.--No fruit is so universally popular as the apple. It is + grown extensively for cider, but many sorts are cultivated for + the table. The apple, uncooked, is less digestible than the + pear; the degree of digestibility varying according to the + firmness of its texture and flavour. Very wholesome and + delicious jellies, marmalades, and sweetmeats are prepared from + it. Entremets of apples are made in great variety. Apples, when + peeled, cored, and well cooked, are a most grateful food for the + dyspeptic. + +ALMA PUDDING. + +1237. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of fresh butter, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, +1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of currants, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by degrees, the +sugar, and mix both these well together; then dredge the flour in +gradually, add the currants, and moisten with the eggs, which should be +well beaten. When all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed, butter +a mould that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it down with a cloth, +put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 5 hours; when turned +out, strew some powdered sugar over it, and serve. + +_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED APRICOT PUDDING. + +1238. INGREDIENTS.--12 large apricots, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint +of milk, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread crumbs; +when half cold, add the sugar, the well-whisked yolks of the eggs, and +the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until they are soft, +and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the kernels, which +should be well pounded in a mortar; then mix the fruit and other +ingredients together, put a border of paste round the dish, fill with +the mixture, and bake the pudding from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. + + +APRICOT TART. + +1239. INGREDIENTS.--12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste or +short crust. + +_Mode_.--Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put them +into a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or jar, +bottom uppermost; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no water. Line +the edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and ornament the pie +in any of the usual modes. Bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to size; +and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 minutes before the pie is +done, and put it into the oven again to set the glaze. Short crust +merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before being +sent to table. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; green ones rather +earlier. + +_Note_.--Green apricots make very good tarts, but they should be boiled +with a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust. + + APRICOTS.--The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, + but is now cultivated in almost every climate, temperate or + tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit + has a perfumed flavour, highly esteemed. A good apricot, when + perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat + condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly + arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great + excess. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked, + without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. The apricot makes + excellent jam and marmalade, and there are several foreign + preparations of it which are considered great luxuries. + +BAKED OR BOILED ARROWROOT PUDDING. + +1240. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1 +oz. of butter, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist +sugar, a little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it into a +smooth batter, moderately thick; put the remainder of the milk into a +stewpan with the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about 1/2 hour; when +it boils, strain it gently to the batter, stirring it all the time to +keep it smooth; then add the butter; beat this well in until thoroughly +mixed, and sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-dish, +round which has been placed a border of paste, grate a little nutmeg +over the top, and bake the pudding from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, in a moderate +oven, or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered basin. To +enrich this pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just before it is +put in the oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a tablespoonful of brandy. +For a nursery pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients will be +found quite superfluous, as also the paste round the edge of the dish. + +_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour, baked or boiled. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + _ARROWROOT_.--In India, and in the colonies, by the process of + rasping, they extract from a vegetable (_Maranta arundinacea_) a + sediment nearly resembling tapioca. The grated pulp is sifted + into a quantity of water, from which it is afterwards strained + and dried, and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot. + Its qualities closely resemble those of tapioca. + +A BACHELOR'S PUDDING. + +1241. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of grated bread, 4 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of +apples, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, a +little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and mince the apples very finely, sufficient, when +minced, to make 4 oz.; add to these the currants, which should be well +washed, the grated bread, and sugar; whisk the eggs, beat these up with +the remaining ingredients, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, put the +pudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 +hours. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from August to March. + + +BAKEWELL PUDDING. + +(_Very Rich_.) + +I. + +1242. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of puff-paste, 5 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1/4 +lb. of butter, 1 oz. of almonds, jam. + +_Mode_.--Cover a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of any +kind of jam, 1/2 inch thick; put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin with +the white of 1, and beat these well; add the sifted sugar, the butter, +which should be melted, and the almonds, which should be well pounded; +beat all together until well mixed, then pour it into the dish over the +jam, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +1243. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 +oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, jam. + +_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish, then over +them a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred; mix the milk and +eggs together; add the sugar, butter, and pounded almonds; beat fill +well together; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 +hour. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_. 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BARONESS PUDDING. + +(_Author's Recipe_.) + +1244. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet, 3/4 lb. of raisins weighed after +being stoned, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 saltspoonful of +salt. + +_Mode_.--Prepare the suet, by carefully freeing it from skin, and chop +it finely; stone the raisins, and cut them in halves, and mix both these +ingredients with the salt and flour; moisten the whole with the above +proportion of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding in a +floured cloth, which has been previously wrung out in boiling water. Put +the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil, without +ceasing, 4-1/2 hours. Serve merely with plain sifted sugar, a little of +which may be sprinkled over the pudding. + +_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable. + +_Note_.--This pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend. The +recipe was kindly given to her family by a lady who bore the title here +prefixed to it; and with all who have partaken of it, it is an especial +favourite. Nothing is of greater consequence, in the above directions, +than attention to the time of boiling, which should never be _less_ than +that mentioned. + + +BARBERRY TART. + +1245. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of barberries allow 3/4 lb. of lump +sugar; paste. + +[Illustration: LEAF IN PUFF-PASTE.] + +_Mode_.--Pick the barberries from the stalks, and put the fruit into a +stone jar; place this jar in boiling water, and let it simmer very +slowly until the fruit is soft; then put it into a preserving-pan with +the sugar, and boil gently for 15 minutes; line a tartlet-pan with +paste, bake it, and, when the paste is cold, fill with the barberries, +and ornament the tart with a few baked leaves of paste, cut out, as +shown in the engraving. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to bake the tart. + +_Average cost_, 4d. per pint. + +_Seasonable_ in autumn. + +[Illustration: BARBERRY.] + + BARBERRIES (_Berberris vulgaris_.)--A fruit of such great + acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it + nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes + a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the different + modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as a dry + sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with + vinegar, and are used for various culinary purposes. They are + well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted + with fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of nice curled + parsley, make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper-dishes, + particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl a la Bechamel, + the three colours, scarlet, green, and white, contrasting so + well, and producing a very good effect. + +BAKED BATTER PUDDING. + +1246. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. +of butter, 4 eggs, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk; make the +remainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, keeping the mixture well +stirred; add the butter, eggs, and salt; beat the whole well, and put +the pudding into a buttered pie-dish; bake for 3/4 hour, and serve with +sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. Baked in small cups, this +makes very pretty little puddings, and should be eaten with the same +accompaniments as above. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit. + +1247. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 +eggs, 2 oz. of finely-shredded suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a pinch of +salt. + +_Mode_.--Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to a smooth batter; add a little +salt, the suet, and the currants, which should be well washed, picked, +and dried; put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a +moderate oven for 1-1/4 hour. When fresh fruits are in season, this +pudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, plums, red currants, +gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the pudding must be +thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding, with +fruit, is made in the same manner, by putting the fruit into a buttered +basin, and filling it up with batter made in the above proportion, but +omitting the suet. It must be sent quickly to table, and covered +plentifully with sifted sugar. + +_Time_.--Baked batter pudding, with fruit, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; boiled +ditto, 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour, allowing that both are made with the above +proportion of batter. Smaller puddings will be done enough in 3/4 or 1 +hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, with dried fruits. + + +BOILED BATTER PUDDING. + +1248. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3 +tablespoonfuls of flour, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten +it; carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the +remainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should be +previously melted; keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch of +salt, and when the batter is quite smooth, put it into a well-buttered +basin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into boiling water; move the +basin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to prevent +the flour settling in any part, and boil for 1-1/4 hour. This pudding +may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water; +it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin. Send +these puddings very quickly to table, and serve with sweet sauce, wine +sauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind: when the latter is used, a +little of it may be placed round the dish in small quantities, as a +garnish. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ORANGE BATTER PUDDING. + +1249. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1-1/4 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 +tablespoonfuls of flour. + +_Mode_.--Make the batter with the above ingredients, put it into a +well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour. As +soon as it is turned out of the basin, put a small jar of orange +marmalade all over the top, and send the pudding very quickly to table. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, with the marmalade, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding. + + +BAKED BREAD PUDDING. + +1250. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 4 +oz. of butter, 4 oz. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel, 6 bitter +almonds, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a stewpan, with the bitter almonds; let it +infuse for 1/4 hour; bring it to the boiling point; strain it on to the +bread crumbs, and let these remain till cold; then add the eggs, which +should be well whisked, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and beat the +pudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed; line the +bottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin, put in the +mixture, and bake for nearly 3/4 hour. + +_Time_.--Nearly 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--A few currants may be substituted for the candied peel, and +will be found an excellent addition to this pudding: they should be +beaten in with the mixture, and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish. + + +VERY PLAIN BREAD PUDDING. + +1251. INGREDIENTS.--Odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread; to every +quart allow 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 3 +oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1-1/4 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Break the bread into small pieces, and pour on them as much +boiling water as will soak them well. Let these stand till the water is +cool; then press it out, and mash the bread with a fork until it is +quite free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart stir in +salt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the above proportion; mix all well +together, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish. Smooth the surface +with the back of a spoon, and place the butter in small pieces over the +top; bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour, and serve very hot. Boiling +milk substituted for the boiling water would very much improve this +pudding. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d., exclusive of the bread. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BOILED BREAD PUDDING. + +1252. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, sugar +to taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of currants, 1/4 teaspoonful of +grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, and pour it on the bread crumbs; let +these remain till cold; then add the other ingredients, taking care that +the eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed, picked, and +dried. Beat the pudding well, and put it into a buttered basin; tie it +down tightly with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for +1-1/4 hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve with sifted sugar. Any +odd pieces or scraps of bread answer for this pudding; but they should +be soaked overnight, and, when wanted for use, should have the water +well squeezed from them. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + BREAD.--Bread contains, in its composition, in the form of + vegetable albumen and vegetable fibrine, two of the chief + constituents of flesh, and, in its incombustible constituents, + the salts which are indispensable for sanguification, of the + same quality and in the same proportion as flesh. But flesh + contains, besides these, a number of substances which are + entirely wanting in vegetable food; and on these peculiar + constituents of flesh depend certain effects, by which it is + essentially distinguished from other articles of food. + +BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. + +1253. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of brown-bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of currants, +1/2 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of +brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Grate 3/4 lb. of crumbs from a stale brown loaf; add to these +the currants and suet, and be particular that the latter is finely +chopped. Put in the remaining ingredients; beat the pudding well for a +few minutes; put it into a buttered basin or mould; tie it down tightly, +and boil for nearly 4 hours. Send sweet sauce to table with it. + +_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding. + + +MINIATURE BREAD PUDDINGS. + +1254. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 2 +oz. of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 1 teaspoonful +of finely-minced lemon-peel. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, pour it on to the bread crumbs, and let +them soak for about 1/2 hour. Beat the eggs, mix these with the bread +crumbs, add the remaining ingredients, and stir well until all is +thoroughly mixed. Butter some small cups; rather more than half fill +them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to +1/2 hour, and serve with sweet sauce. A few currants may be added to +these puddings: about 3 oz. will be found sufficient for the above +quantity. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 small puddings. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. + +1255. INGREDIENTS.--9 thin slices of bread and butter, 1-1/2 pint of +milk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, 1/4 lb. of currants, flavouring of +vanilla, grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Cut 9 slices of bread and butter not very thick, and put them +into a pie-dish, with currants between each layer and on the top. +Sweeten and flavour the milk, either by infusing a little lemon-peel in +it, or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla; well whisk the eggs, +and stir these to the milk. _Strain_ this over the bread and butter, and +bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, or rather longer. This pudding may +be very much enriched by adding cream, candied peel, or more eggs than +stated above. It should not be turned out, but sent to table in the +pie-dish, and is better for being made about 2 hours before it is baked. + +_Time_.--1 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + BUTTER.--Butter is indispensable in almost all culinary + preparations. Good fresh butter, used in moderation, is easily + digested; it is softening, nutritious, and fattening, and is far + more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances + sometimes used in its place. + +CABINET or CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING. + +1256. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of candied peel, 4 oz. of currants, 4 +dozen sultanas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French roll, +4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon-rind, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 table-spoonfuls +of sugar. + +[Illustration: CABINET PUDDING.] + +_Mode_.--Melt some butter to a paste, and with it, well grease the mould +or basin in which the pudding is to be boiled, taking care that it is +buttered in every part. Cut the peel into thin slices, and place these +in a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould, and fill in the spaces +between with currants and sultanas; then add a few slices of sponge cake +or French roll; drop a few drops of melted butter on these, and between +each layer sprinkle a few currants. Proceed in this manner until the +mould is nearly full; then flavour the milk with nutmeg and grated +lemon-rind; add the sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which should be +well beaten. Beat this mixture for a few minutes; then strain it into +the mould, which should be quite full; tie a piece of buttered paper +over it, and let it stand for 2 hours; then tie it down with a cloth, +put it into boiling water, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. In taking +it up, let it stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed; +then quickly turn it out of the mould or basin, and serve with sweet +sauce separately. The flavouring of this pudding may be varied by +substituting for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds; +and it may be made much richer by using cream; but this is not at all +necessary. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A PLAIN CABINET or BOILED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. + +1257. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of raisins, a few thin slices of bread and +butter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/4 nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Butter a pudding-basin, and line the inside with a layer of +raisins that have been previously stoned; then nearly fill the basin +with slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off, and, in another +basin, beat the eggs; add to them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg; +mix all well together, and pour the whole on to the bread and butter; +let it stand 1/2 hour, then tie a floured cloth over it; boil for 1 +hour, and serve with sweet sauce. Care must be taken that the basin is +quite full before the cloth is tied over. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CANARY PUDDING. + +1258. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the weight +of 2 eggs in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Melt the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil; +stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, and gradually +dredge in the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred; whisk the eggs; +add these to the pudding; beat all the ingredients until thoroughly +blended, and put them into a buttered mould or basin; boil for 2 hours, +and serve with sweet sauce. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED OR BOILED CARROT PUDDING. + +1259. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of suet, 1/4 lb. of +stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of carrot, 1/4 lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar, +3 eggs, milk, 1/4 nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp; add the +remaining ingredients, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the +pudding of the consistency of thick batter. If to be boiled, put the +mixture into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for +2-1/2 hours: if to be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake for nearly +an hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and serve. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil; 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + CARROTS, says Liebig, contain the same kind of sugar as the + juice of the sugar-cane. + +ROYAL COBURG PUDDING. + +1260. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of sugar, +6 oz. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated nutmeg to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk, add the +remaining ingredients _gradually_, and when well mixed, put it into four +basins or moulds half full; bake for 3/4 hour, turn the puddings out on +a dish, and serve with wine sauce. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CHERRY TART. + +1261. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of cherries, 2 small tablespoonfuls of +moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211. + +_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the cherries, put them, with the sugar, +into a _deep_ pie-dish just capable of holding them, with a small cup +placed upside down in the midst of them. Make a short crust with 1/2 lb. +of flour, by either of the recipes 1210 or 1211; lay a border round the +edge of the dish; put on the cover, and ornament the edges; bake in a +brisk oven from 1/2 hour to 40 minutes; strew finely-sifted sugar over, +and serve hot or cold, although the latter is the more usual mode. It is +more economical to make two or three tarts at one time, as the trimmings +from one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for another, and +so much paste is not required as when they are made singly. Unless for +family use, never make fruit pies in very _large_ dishes; select them, +however, as deep as possible. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + +_Note_.--A few currants added to the cherries will be found to impart a +nice piquant taste to them. + +[Illustration: CHERRY.] + + CHERRIES.--According to Lucullus, the cherry-tree was known in + Asia in the year of Rome 680. Seventy different species of + cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, which are distinguishable + from each other by the difference of their form, size, and + colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur Darned + _kirsch-waser_ (_eau de cerises_); the Italians prepare, from a + cherry called marusca, the liqueur named _marasquin_, sweeter + and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries + have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should + be very carefully masticated. Sweetmeats, syrups, tarts, + entremets, &c., of cherries, are universally approved. + +COLD PUDDING. + +1262. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a little +grated lemon-rind, 2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, a +few slices of sponge cake. + +_Mode_.--Sweeten the milk with lump sugar, add a little grated +lemon-rind, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well whisked; +line a buttered mould with the raisins, stoned and cut in half; spread +the slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mould; then +pour in the custard, tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth, and +boil gently for 1 hour: when cold, turn it out, and serve. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +COLLEGE PUDDINGS. + +1263. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. of finely-chopped +suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. of +sugar, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin; add the suet, currants, +candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredients +until they are thoroughly mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the pudding +with these, and put in the brandy; beat well for a few minutes, then +form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hot +butter or lard, letting them stew in it until thoroughly done, and turn +them two or three times, till of a fine light brown; drain them on a +piece of blotting-paper before the fire; dish, and serve with wine +sauce. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CURRANT DUMPLINGS. + +1264. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, +rather more than 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, and add the +currants, which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried; mix the +whole to a limp paste with the water (if wanted very nice, use milk); +divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; tie them in cloths, and boil for 1-1/4 +hour. They may be boiled without a cloth: they should then be made into +round balls, and dropped into boiling water, and should be moved about +at first, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. +Serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar. + +_Time_.--In a cloth, 1-1/4 hour; without, 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 9 d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: ZANTE CURRANTS.] + + ZANTE CURRANTS.--The dried fruit which goes by the name of + currants in grocers' shops is not a currant really, but a small + kind of grape, chiefly cultivated in the Morea and the Ionian + Islands, Corfu, Zante, &c. Those of Zante are cultivated in an + immense plain, under the shelter of mountains, on the shore of + the island, where the sun has great power, and brings them to + maturity. When gathered and dried by the sun and air, on mats, + they are conveyed to magazines, heaped together, and left to + cake, until ready for shipping. They are then dug out by iron + crowbars, trodden into casks, and exported. The fertile vale of + "Zante the woody" produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of currants + annually. In cakes and puddings this delicious little grape is + most extensively used; in fact, we could not make a plum pudding + without the currant. + +BOILED CURRANT PUDDING. + +(_Plain and Economical_.) + +1265. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of +currants, milk. + +_Mode_.--Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away any +stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together, +and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a stiff +batter; tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and +boil for 3-1/2 hours; serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted +sugar. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BLACK or RED CURRANT PUDDING. + +1266. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of red or black currants, measured with the +stalks, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter crust No. +1213. + +_Mode_.--Make, with 3/4 lb. of flour, either a suet crust or butter +crust (the former is usually made); butter a basin, and line it with +part of the crust; put in the currants, which should be stripped from +the stalks, and sprinkle the sugar over them; put the cover of the +pudding on; make the edges very secure, that the juice does not escape; +tie it down with a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil +from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. Boiled without a basin, allow 1/2 hour less. We +have allowed rather a large proportion of sugar; but we find fruit +puddings are so much more juicy and palatable when _well sweetened_ +before they are boiled, besides being more economical. A few raspberries +added to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition: about 1/2 pint +would be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings are +very delicious if, when they are turned out of the basin, the crust is +browned with a salamander, or put into a very hot oven for a few minutes +to colour it: this makes it crisp on the surface. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours; without a basin, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + +[Illustration: CURRANTS.] + + CURRANTS.--The utility of currants, red, black, or white, has + long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the red + species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an + agreeable substance called _currant jelly_, much employed in + sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds. + The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an + agreeable beverage. The juice of currants is a valuable remedy + in obstructions of the bowels; and, in febrile complaints, it is + useful on account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its + cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured + currants have, with the exception of the fullness of flavour, in + every respect, the same qualities as the red species. Both white + and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert, but the + black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal + purposes, especially in the form of jelly for quinsies. The + leaves of the black currant make a pleasant tea. + +RED-CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART. + +1267. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of picked currants, 1/2 pint of +raspberries, 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short +crust. + +_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, and put them into a deep +pie-dish, with a small cup placed in the midst, bottom upwards; add the +raspberries and sugar; place a border of paste round the edge of the +dish, cover with crust, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 +hour: strew some sifted sugar over before being sent to table. This tart +is more generally served cold than hot. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + +[Illustration: RASPBERRY.] + + RASPBERRIES.--There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and + the white. Both the scent and flavour of this fruit are very + refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome, and + invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. We are + not aware, however, of its being cultivated with the same amount + of care which is bestowed upon some other of the berry tribe, + although it is far from improbable that a more careful + cultivation would not be repaid by a considerable improvement in + the size and flavour of the berry; neither, as an eating fruit, + is it so universally esteemed as the strawberry, with whose + lusciousness and peculiarly agreeable flavour it can bear no + comparison. In Scotland, it is found in large quantities, + growing wild, and is eagerly sought after, in the woods, by + children. Its juice is rich and abundant, and to many, extremely + agreeable. + +BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING. + +1268. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1/4 lb. +of moist sugar, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-rind, and +let this infuse for about 4 hour, or until the milk is well flavoured; +whisk the eggs, yolks and whites; pour the milk to them, stirring all +the while; then have ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge with paste +ready baked; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little nutmeg +over the top, and bake in a _very slow_ oven for about 1/2 hour, or +rather longer. The flavour of this pudding may be varied by substituting +bitter almonds for the lemon-rind; and it may be very much enriched by +using half cream and half milk, and doubling the quantity of eggs. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--This pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts. + + +BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING. + +1269. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, +flavouring to taste. + +_Mode_.--Flavour the milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind or +cinnamon; whisk the eggs, stir the flour gradually to these, and pour +over them the milk, and stir the mixture well. Butter a basin that will +exactly hold it; put in the custard, and tie a floured cloth over; +plunge it into boiling water, and turn it about for a few minutes, to +prevent the flour from settling in one part. Boil it slowly for 1/2 +hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve. The pudding may be garnished +with red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DAMSON TART. + +1270. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2 +lb. of short or puff crust. + +_Mode_.--Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deep +pie-dish, in the midst of which, place a small cup or jar turned upside +down; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish with +short or puff crust, whichever may be preferred; put on the cover, +ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour in a good oven. If +puff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it out +of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth +with the blade of a knife; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few drops +of water, and put the tart back to finish baking: with short crust, a +little plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be required. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October. + +[Illustration: DAMSONS.] + + DAMSONS.--Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, + wine, dried fruit or preserved, the damson, or _damascene_ (for + it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is + invaluable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy + proportions, when full ripe. It is a fruit easily cultivated; + and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, + it will grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine + standards the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts + of baking plums, the damson stands first, not only on account of + the abundance of its juice, but also on account of its soon + softening. Because of the roughness of its flavour, it requires + a large quantity of sugar. + +DAMSON PUDDING. + +1271. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 3/4 +lb. of suet or butter crust. + +_Mode_.--Make a suet crust with 3/4 lb. of flour by recipe No. 1215; +line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill the basin with +the damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid; pinch the edges of the +crust together, that the juice does not escape; tie over a floured +cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3 +hours. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October. + + +DELHI PUDDING. + +1272. INGREDIENTS.--4 large apples, a little grated nutmeg, 1 +teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 oz. +of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices; put them into a +saucepan, with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, and sugar; stir them over the +fire until soft; then have ready the above proportion of crust, roll it +out thin, spread the apples over the paste, sprinkle over the currants, +roll the pudding up, closing the ends properly, tie it in a floured +cloth, and boil for 2 hours. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + + +EMPRESS PUDDING. + +1273. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, jam, +sufficient milk to soften the rice. + +_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk until very soft; then add the butter +boil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in, and set +it by to cool. Well beat the eggs, stir these in, and line a dish with +puff-paste; put over this a layer of rice, then a thin layer of any kind +of jam, then another layer of rice, and proceed in this manner until the +dish is full; and bake in a moderate oven for 3/4 hour. This pudding may +be eaten hot or cold; if the latter, it will be much improved by having +a boiled custard poured over it. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +EXETER PUDDING. + +(_Very rich_.) + +1274. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of sago, 7 oz. of +finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 +pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2 +oz. of ratafias, 1/2 lb. of jam. + +_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago, suet, sugar, +minced lemon-peel, rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients well +together, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and let the mixture be +well beaten. Then butter a mould, strew in a few bread crumbs, and cover +the bottom with a layer of ratafias; then put in a layer of the mixture, +then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with any kind of jam; +then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture and sponge cake, and so +on until the mould is full, taking care that a layer of the mixture is +on the top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven from 3/4 to 1 hour, and +serve with the following sauce:--Put 3 tablespoonfuls of black-currant +jelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of sherry, and, when warm, turn the +pudding out of the mould, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot. + +_Time_.--From 1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FIG PUDDING. + +I. + +1275. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 +lb. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk. + +_Mode_.--Cut the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, and +chop the suet very small; mix these well together, add the flour, the +eggs, which should be well beaten, and sufficient milk to form the whole +into a stiff paste; butter a mould or basin, press the pudding into it +very closely, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or rather +longer; turn it out of the mould, and serve with melted butter, +wine-sauce, or cream. + +_Time_.--3 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding. + + +II. + +(_Staffordshire Recipe_.) + +1276. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, 3/4 lb. of flour, +milk. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, and make these +into a smooth paste with milk; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 +inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and strew them over the paste; roll +it up, make the ends secure, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil it +from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FOLKESTONE PUDDING-PIES. + +1277. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of +butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, 6 eggs, +puff-paste, currants. + +_Mode_.--Infuse 2 laurel or bay leaves, or the rind of 1/2 lemon, in the +milk, and when it is well flavoured, strain it, and add the rice; boil +these for 1/4 hour, stirring all the time; then take them off the fire, +stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs, and let these latter be well beaten +before they are added to the other ingredients; when nearly cold, line +some patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the custard, strew over each +a few currants, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven. + +_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a dozen patty-pans. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable for Pic-Nics). + +1278. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1206, any kind of fruit, sugar to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Make some puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the +thickness of about 1/4 inch, and cut it out in pieces of a circular +form; pile the fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet +the edges and turn the paste over. Press the edges together, ornament +them, and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg; sprinkle +over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, for about 20 +minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down with +a little sugar first, and then inclosed in the crust; or jam, of any +kind, may be substituted for fresh fruit. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. + +_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GERMAN PUDDING. + +1279. INGREDIENTS.--2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot, +1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon, +4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured; then +strain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boil +these ingredients for a few minutes, keeping them well stirred; then +take them off the fire and mix with them the eggs, yolks and whites, +beaten separately and added separately. Boil some sugar to candy; line a +mould with this, put in the brandy, then the mixture; tie down with a +cloth, and boil for rather more than 1 hour. When turned out, the brandy +and sugar make a nice sauce. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DAMPFNUDELN, or GERMAN PUDDINGS. + +1280. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 5 eggs, 2 small +tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded sugar, milk, +a very little salt. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, make a hole in the centre, into +which put the yeast, and rather more than 1/4 pint of warm milk; make +this into a batter with the middle of the flour, and let the sponge rise +in a warm temperature. When sufficiently risen, mix the eggs, butter, +sugar, and salt with a little more warm milk, and knead the whole well +together with the hands, beating the dough until it is perfectly smooth, +and it drops from the fingers. Then cover the basin with a cloth, put it +in a warm place, and when the dough has nicely risen, knead it into +small balls; butter the bottom of a deep saute-pan, strew over some +pounded sugar, and let the dampfnudeln be laid in, but do not let them +touch one another; then pour over sufficient milk to cover them, put on +the lid, and let them rise to twice their original size by the side of +the fire. Now place them in the oven for a few minutes, to acquire a +nice brown colour, and serve them on a napkin, with custard sauce +flavoured with vanilla, or a _compote_ of any fruit that may be +preferred. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes for +the puddings to rise; 10 minutes to bake them in a brisk oven. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GINGER PUDDING. + +1281. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist +sugar, 2 large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger. + +_Mode_.--Shred the suet very fine, mix it with the flour, sugar, and +ginger; stir all well together; butter a basin, and put the mixture in +_dry_; tie a cloth over, and boil for 3 hours. + +_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GOLDEN PUDDING. + +1282. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of +marmalade, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the bread crumbs into a basin; mix with them the suet, +which should be finely minced, the marmalade, and the sugar; stir all +these ingredients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten the +pudding with these, and when well mixed, put it into a mould or buttered +basin; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours. When turned +out, strew a little fine-sifted sugar over the top, and serve. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged in +any fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would add +very much to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding, +double the quantities of the bread crumbs, and if the eggs do not +moisten it sufficiently, use a little milk. + + +BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. + +1283. INGREDIENTS.--Gooseberries, 3 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint +of bread crumbs, sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off the +tops and tails; place this jar in boiling water, and let it boil until +the gooseberries are soft enough to pulp; then beat them through a +coarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add 3 well-whisked eggs, 1-1/2 +oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste; beat the +mixture well, put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish, +put in the pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, strew sifted sugar over, +and serve. + +_Time_.--About 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July. + + +BOILED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. + +1284. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1-1/2 pint of green +gooseberries, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar. + +_Mode_.--Line a pudding-basin with suet crust no. 1215, rolled out to +about 1/2 inch in thickness, and, with a pair of scissors, cut off the +tops and tails of the gooseberries; fill the basin with the fruit, put +in the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding +together, tie over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and +boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours; turn it out of the basin, and serve with a +jug of cream. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July. + + +GOOSEBERRY TART. + +1285. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of gooseberries, 1/2 lb. of short crust +No. 1211, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar. + +_Mode_.--With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the +gooseberries; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the +centre, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the dish with short +crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart; bake in a +good oven for about 3/4 hour, and before being sent to table, strew over +it some fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a dish of boiled or baked +custards, should always accompany this dish. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from May to July. + +[Illustration: GOOSEBERRY.] + + GOOSEBERRIES.--The red and the white are the two principal + varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the more acid; + but, when covered with white sugar, are most wholesome, because + the sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an + excellent jelly, which is light and refreshing, but not very + nourishing. It is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and to + invalids generally who need light and digestible food. It is a + fruit from which many dishes might be made. All sorts of + gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and, in this country + especially, there is no fruit so universally in favour. In + Scotland, there is scarcely a cottage-garden without its + gooseberry-bush. Several of the species are cultivated with the + nicest care. + +HALF-PAY PUDDING. + +1286. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of +raisins, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of +treacle, 1/2 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the currants, which should be +nicely washed and dried, the raisins, which should be stoned, the flour, +bread crumbs, and treacle; moisten with the milk, beat up the +ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered +basin, and boil the pudding for 3-1/2 hours. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +HERODOTUS PUDDING. + +1287. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of good figs, 6 oz. +of suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 3 eggs, nutmeg +to taste. + +_Mode_.--Mince the suet and figs very finely; add the remaining +ingredients, taking care that the eggs are well whisked; beat the +mixture for a few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie it down +with a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 hours. Serve with wine +sauce. + +_Time_.--5 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +HUNTER'S PUDDING. + +1288. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, +1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 lb. of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of +flour, 3 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops of +essence of lemon, 10 drops of essence of almonds, 1/2 nutmeg, 2 blades +of mace, 6 cloves. + +_Mode_.--Stone and shred the raisins rather small, chop the suet finely, +and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken; pound the spice to +powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all these +ingredients well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a strong +froth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and +essence of almonds; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well, and add +the brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil it for 6 hours +at the least: 7 or 8 hours would be still better for it. Serve with +boiled custard, or red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce. + +_Time_.--6 to 8 hours. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +ICED PUDDING. + +(_Parisian Recipe_.) + +[Illustration: ICED-PUDDING MOULD.] + +1289. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones, 3/4 +lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1-1/2 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then pound +them in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste; add to these the +well-beaten eggs, the sugar, and milk; stir these ingredients over the +fire until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil; then strain and +put the mixture into the freezing-pot; surround it with ice, and freeze +it as directed in recipe 1290. When quite frozen, fill an iced-pudding +mould, put on the lid, and keep the pudding in ice until required for +table; then turn it out on the dish, and garnish it with a _compote_ of +any fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the top of the +pudding. This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla, Curacoa, or +Maraschino. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Seasonable_.--Served all the year round. + + +ICED APPLE PUDDING. (_French Recipe, after Careme_.) + +1290. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen apples, a small pot of apricot-jam, 1/2 lb. +of sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1/4 pint of preserved cherries, 1/4 lb. of +raisins, 1 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of almonds, 1 gill of Curacoa, 1 gill of +Maraschino, 1 pint of cream. + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and simmer them +over the fire until soft; then mix with them the apricot-jam and the +sugar, on which the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed; work +all these ingredients through a sieve, and put them into the +freezing-pot. Stone the raisins, and simmer them in a little syrup for a +few minutes; add these, with the sliced citron, the almonds cut in dice, +and the cherries drained from their syrup, to the ingredients in the +freezing-pot; put in the Curacoa and Maraschino, and freeze again; add +as much whipped cream as will be required, freeze again, and fill the +mould. Put the lid on, and plunge the mould into the ice-pot; cover it +with a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre, where it should remain +until wanted for table. Turn the pudding out of the mould on to a clean +and neatly-folded napkin, and serve, as sauce, a little iced whipped +cream, in a sauce-tureen or glass dish. + +[Illustration: ICE-SPATTLE.] + +[Illustration: ICE-FREEZING PAIL.] + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Seasonable_ from August to March. + +_Method of working the freezing Apparatus_.--Put into the outer pail +some pounded ice, upon which strew some saltpetre; then fix the pewter +freezing-pot upon this, and surround it entirely with ice and saltpetre. +Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in the preparation, and close +the lid; a quarter of an hour after, begin turning the freezing-pan from +right to left, and when the mixture begins to be firm round the sides of +the pot, stir it about with the slice or spattle, that the preparation +may be equally congealed. Close the lid again, keep working from right +to left, and, from time to time, remove the mixture from the sides, that +it may be smooth; and when perfectly frozen, it is ready to put in the +mould; the mould should then be placed in the ice again, where it should +remain until wanted for table. + + +ROLY-POLY JAM PUDDING. + +1291. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb of suet-crust No. 1215, 3/4 lb. of any kind +of jam. + +_Mode_.--Make a nice light suet-crust by recipe No. 1215, and roll it +out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Spread the jam equally over it, +leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins. +Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; put +the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or +marmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent puddings. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not +obtainable. + + +LEMON CHEESECAKES. + +1292. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the +rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully grating the +lemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture over the +fire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken: when of the +consistency of honey, it is done; then put it into small jars, and keep +in a dry place. This mixture will remain good 3 or 4 months. When made +into cheesecakes, add a few pounded almonds, or candied peel, or grated +sweet biscuit; line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, rather more +than half fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 1/4 hour in a +good brisk oven. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 24 cheesecakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON MINCEMEAT. + +1293. INGREDIENTS.--2 large lemons, 6 large apples, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1 +lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of +citron, mixed spice to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until tender +enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples, which should be +pared, cored, and minced; the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced +peel, and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir the +mixture well, and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting lid. Stir +occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready for +use. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 18 large or 24 small pies. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this about the beginning of December. + + +LEMON DUMPLINGS. + +1294. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, +1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon. + +[Illustration: LEMON DUMPLINGS.] + +_Mode_.--Mix the bread, suet, and moist sugar well together, adding the +lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten with the eggs +and strained lemon-juice; stir well, and put the mixture into small +buttered cups. Tie them down and boil for 3/4 hour. Turn them out on a +dish, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 dumplings. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED LEMON PUDDING. + +I. + +1295. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 +lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, puff-crust. + +_Mode_.--Beat the eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar and warmed +butter; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the grated rind +and strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish with +puff-paste; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 40 +minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted sugar, +and serve. + +_Time_.--40 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +II. + +1296. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of +butter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of +brandy. + +_Mode_.--Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, and +pour these hot over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and very +finely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, and stir these in with the +brandy to the other ingredients; put a paste round the dish, and bake +for 3/4 hour. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: LEMON.] + + LEMON.--The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice of this + fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing + beverages--lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cooling, + and soon quenches the thirst. It may he freely partaken by + bilious and sanguine temperaments; but persons with irritable + stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid qualities. The + fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and, when dried and + grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culinary + preparations. Lemons appear in company with the orange in most + orange-growing countries. They were only known to the Romans at + a very late period, and, at first, were used only to keep the + moths from their garments: their acidity was unpleasant to them. + In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than + as an excellent counter-poison. + +III. + +(_Very rich_.) + +1297. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. of +loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds, +1/2 lb. of butter, melted. + +_Mode_.--Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks of eggs +and the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound the +almonds, and put these, with the grated rind and strained juice of the +lemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well together; line a dish +with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BOILED LEMON PUDDING. + +1298. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 +small lemons, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk. + +_Mode_.--Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together, +adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and the +juice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed, +moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the +consistency of thick batter; put it into a well-buttered mould, and boil +for 3-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve with +wine sauce, or not, at pleasure. + +_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good. It +will take about 2 hours. + + +PLAIN LEMON PUDDING. + +1299. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or dripping, the +juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar. + +_Mode_.--Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth +paste, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Squeeze the +lemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as much +moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste; spread this +mixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the pudding +in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours. + +_Time_.--2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold). + +1300. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip of +lemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, jam, 3 +tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milk +for 1/2 hour; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and boil it for 2 +or 3 minutes; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, the butter, +sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together; cover a +pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer of any +kind of jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and bake the +pudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkled +over. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SWEET MACARONI PUDDING. + +1301. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of +1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of +brandy. + +_Mode_.--Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan with +the lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender; +then put it into a pie-dish without the peel; mix the other pint of milk +with the eggs; stir these well together, adding the sugar and brandy, +and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg over the +top, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. To make this pudding look +nice, a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish, and, for +variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni: +in this case omit the brandy. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to simmer the macaroni; 1/2 hour to bake the pudding. + +_Average cost_, 11d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + MACARONI is composed of wheaten flour, flavoured with other + articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, by a + peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, in order that + it may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter + than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill) is + called _vermicelli_; and when smaller still, _fidelini_. The + finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea + wheat. Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts + of Italy, particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured, + and from whence, also, it is exported in considerable + quantities. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are + frequently used in soups. + +[Illustration: MACARONI.] + +MANNA KROUP PUDDING. + +1302. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, +1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with the +manna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steep +for about 1/4 hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beaten +eggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, and +bake for 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA, are three names given to a + flour made from ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white + when it is made only of these materials; the yellow colour which + it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of + eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful + for thickening either meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is + light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily digested. The best + preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from + Italy. + +MANSFIELD PUDDING. + +1303. INGREDIENTS.--The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar to +taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2 +tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated +nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. + +_Mode_.--Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling +milk; let it remain covered close for 1/4 hour, then beat it up with a +fork, and sweeten with moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, flour, +currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten with +the eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put it +into a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4 +hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MARLBOROUGH PUDDING. + +1304. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered lump sugar, 4 +eggs, puff-paste, a layer of any kind of jam. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar, whisk +the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these are well +mixed, line a dish with puff-paste, spread over a layer of any kind of +jam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding for +rather more than 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING. + +1305. INGREDIENTS.--1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls of +marmalade, 1/4 lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk. + +_Mode_.--Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain +covered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins, +sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into a +buttered mould, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with custard sauce. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_. 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c. + +(_German Recipe_.) + +1306. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 +penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced +parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk the +eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well +stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in +boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remaining +ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much +disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these +into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or 1/2 +hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as in +Germany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in this +country. They are very good. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED OB BOILED MARROW PUDDING. + +1307. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz. +of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each; +sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs, and +let these remain covered for about 1/2 hour; shred the marrow, beat up +the eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs; add the remaining +ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a buttered +mould and boil it for 2-1/2 hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged with +puff-paste, and bake for rather more than 3/4 hour. Before sending it to +table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of the +mould or basin. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil, 3/4 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MILITARY PUDDINGS. + +1308. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of +moist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar, +and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir these into the other +ingredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups, and +bake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn them out on the dish, and serve +with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients may be made into small balls, +and boiled for about 1/2 hour; they should then be served with the same +sauce as when baked. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. _Seasonable_ at any +time. + + +MINCEMEAT. + +1309. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, 1-1/2 lb. of +lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of citron, +2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 small +nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, 1/2 +pint of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Stone and _cut_ the raisins once or twice across, but do not +chop them; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and grit, +and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is chopped very +fine; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and pare, +core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon-peel, strain the juice, and +when all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together, +adding the brandy when the other things are well blended; press the +whole into a jar, carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat will be +ready for use in a fortnight. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8s. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this about the beginning of December. + + +EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT. + +1310. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of stoned +raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. +of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange-peel, and the +same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of +orange marmalade. + +_Mode_.--Grate the rinds of the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strain +it, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp or +chop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which should be +baked, and their skins and cores removed; put in the remaining +ingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix everything very +thoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone jar with a +closely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made the first or second week in December. + + +MINCE PIES. + +1311. INGREDIENTS.--Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309. + +[Illustration: MINCE PIES.] + +_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to +the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and line some good-sized pattypans with +it; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the paste, and cut it off all +round close to the edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven, to +draw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer, should the pies +be very large; brush them over with the white of an egg, beaten with the +blade of a knife to a stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, and put +them into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies on +a white d'oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely sprinkled with +pounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that mode is preferred. To +re-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans, and let them remain in the +oven for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, and they will be almost as good as if +freshly made. + +_Time_.--25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them. + +_Average cost_, 4d. each. + +_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. of paste for 4 pies. _Seasonable_ at Christmas +time. + + +MONDAY'S PUDDING. + +1312. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy, custard +made with 5 eggs to every pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Cut the remains of a _good_ cold plum-pudding into +finger-pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barred +in a mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milk +and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind; fill up the mould +with it; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour. +Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been added +a tablespoonful of brandy. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the pudding, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +NESSELRODE PUDDING. (_A fashionable iced pudding--Careme's Recipe_.) + +1313. INGREDIENTS.--40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, flavouring of vanilla, +1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino, 1 oz. of +candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, 1/2 pint of +whipped cream, 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, and +pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few spoonfuls of +syrup. Then rub them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin with +a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and flavoured with +vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture +over a slow fire, stirring it _without ceasing_, and just as it begins +to boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy. When it is cold, put +it into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and make the mixture set; +then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these two +latter should be soaked the day previously in Maraschino and sugar +pounded with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of whipped +cream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little +syrup. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into a +pineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, place it again in the +freezing-pan, covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and let it +remain until required for table; then turn the pudding out, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Seasonable_ from October to February. + + +BAKED ORANGE PUDDING. + +1314. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias, 6 +oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pour +upon them the milk, which should be boiling. Rub the rinds of 2 of the +oranges on sugar, and add this, with the juice of the remainder, to the +other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, and +put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste. Bake +for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted +sugar over, and serve. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from November to May. + +[Illustration: ORANGE.] + + ORANGE (_Citrus Aurantium_).--The principal varieties are the + sweet, or China orange, and the bitter, or Seville orange; the + Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red blood-like pulp. + The orange is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, and + in Devonshire, on walls with a south aspect, it bears an + abundance of fruit. So great is the increase in the demand for + the orange, and so ample the supply, that it promises to rival + the apple in its popularity. The orange-tree is considered young + at the age of a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists + of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and + refreshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen for + the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an essential oil + is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of + roses. Of all marmalades, that made from the Seville orange is + the best. The peel and juice of the orange are much used in + culinary preparations. From oranges are made preserves, + comfitures, jellies, glaces, sherbet, liqueurs, and syrups. The + juice of the orange in a glass _d'eau sucree_ makes a refreshing + and wholesome drink. From the clarified pulp of the orange the + French make a delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots, + and call _creme_. The rasped peel of the orange is used in + several sweet _entremets_, to which it communicates its perfume. + The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all + parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent + tonics and stomachics. Persons with delicate stomachs should + abstain from oranges at dessert, because their acidity is likely + to derange the digestive organs. + +SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS, SUPPER-DISHES, &c. + +FANCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS. + +1315. INGREDIENTS.--For the custard, 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of +butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouring +to taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Well beat the eggs; stir to them the milk, the butter, which +should be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix these ingredients +well together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring them to +the simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour with essence +of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any flavouring +ingredient that may be preferred. Line some round tartlet-pans with good +puff-paste; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for +about 20 minutes; then take them out of the pans; let them cool, and in +the mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir into +this the pounded sugar, and spread smoothly over the tartlets a little +of this mixture. Put them in the oven again to set the icing, but be +particular that they do not scorch: when the icing looks crisp, they are +done. Arrange them, piled high in the centre, on a white napkin, and +garnish the dish, and in between the tartlets, with strips of bright +jelly, or very firmly-made preserve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the paste, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 10 or 12 tartlets. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and a +spoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard +instead: this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish. + + +ALMOND FLOWERS. + +1316. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205; to every 1/2 lb. of paste allow +3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg. + +_Mode_.--Roll the paste out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with a +round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required. Work +the paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp out +some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces over with +the white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch +and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into the +paste closely round the rings; and when they are all completed, sift +over some pounded sugar, and bake for about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. +Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in the +centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam; pile them high on +the dish, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes. + +_Sufficient_.--18 or 20 for a dish. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FLUTED ROLLS. + +1317. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar, jelly +or preserve. + +_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings answer +very well for little dishes of this sort); roll it out to the thickness +of 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many +round pieces as may be required; brush over the upper side with the +white of an egg; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly together +where it joins; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake for about +1/4 hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them over with the +white of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven; and +when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour, they are done. Place +a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish them high on a +napkin, and serve cold. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour before being iced; 5 to 10 minutes after. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste for 2 dishes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +PASTRY SANDWICHES. + +1318. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg, +sifted sugar. + +_Mode_.--Roll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet or +tin, and spread equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that +may be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste; press the +edges together all round; and mark the paste in lines with a knife on +the surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20 minutes to +1/2 hour; and, a short time before being done, take the pastry out of +the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift over pounded +sugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When cold, cut it into +strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. These strips, cut +about 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a plateful of flavoured +whipped cream poured in the middle, make a very pretty dish. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1 hour. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, +1s. + +_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +PETITES BOUCHEES. + +1319. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, +the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste. + +_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine; rub the sugar on the +lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and the +white of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape that may +be preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c., and spread the above +mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchees in an oven, not too hot, and +serve cold. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 1/2 lb. of puff-paste. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POLISH TARTLETS. + +1320. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 2-1/2-inch +squares; brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold down +the corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste; +slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg, +sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about 1/4 hour. When +they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and fill +it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high +in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve +the tartlets are filled with. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of puff-paste, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small +pastry, such as the preceding, trimmings of puff-pasty, left from larger +tarts, answer as well as making the paste expressly. + + +PUITS d'AMOUR, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS. + +1321. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg, sifted +loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to +the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, +stamp out as many pieces as may be required; then work the paste up +again, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter, +stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones. Again +stamp out the centre of these smaller rings; brush over the others with +the white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every large +circular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to 20 +minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour them; then +fill the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish them high on a +napkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry may be made by +stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, when +baked, with jelly or preserve, that our space will not allow us to give +a separate recipe for each of them; but, as they are all made from one +paste, and only the shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it is not +necessary, and by exercising a little ingenuity, variety may always be +obtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc., +are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry. + +_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +PARADISE PUDDING. + +1322. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz. of +sugar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of +1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglassful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mix +them with the other dry ingredients; beat up the eggs, moisten the +mixture with these, and beat it well; stir in the brandy, and put the +pudding into a buttered mould; tie it down with a cloth, boil for 1-1/2 +hour, and serve with sweet sauce. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + +PEASE PUDDING. + +1323. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, +pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float off +any that are wormeaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a clean +cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boil +in cold rain-water, allowing 2-1/2 hours after the water has simmered +up. When the peas are tender, take them up and drain; rub them through a +colander with a wooden spoon; add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt; +beat all well together for a few minutes, until the ingredients are well +incorporated; then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; boil the pudding +for another hour, turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot. This +pudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork, and is +an exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour +for the pudding. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + + +BAKED PLUM-PUDDING. + +1324. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of +raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied +peel. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, currants, stoned +raisins, and candied peel; moisten with the well-beaten eggs, and add +sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thick +batter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good oven from 2-1/4 +to 2-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For a +very plain pudding, use only half the quantity of fruit, omit the eggs, +and substitute milk or water for them. The above ingredients make a +large family pudding; for a small one, half the quantity would be found +ample; but it must be baked quite 1-1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--Large pudding, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; half the size, 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + +[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE.] + + RAISIN GRAPE.--All the kinds of raisins have much the same + virtues; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are very + subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and hence, when + eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics. There are many + varieties of grape used for raisins; the fruit of Valencia is + that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst most of the + table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Muscatels. The + finest of all table raisins come from Provence or Italy; the + most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire; they are very + large and very sweet. This sort is rarely eaten by any but the + most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel raisins, which come + to this country packed in small boxes, and nicely preserved in + bunches, are variable in their quality, but mostly of a rich + flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep purple hue. + +AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs. + +1325. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of +currants, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of +mashed carrot, 1/4 lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1 +oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together; have +ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which stir into +the other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon-peel; but put no liquid +in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or, if +put in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding should have room to +swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy-sauce. This pudding is +better for being mixed over-night. + +_Time_.--4 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING. + +1326. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of muscatel raisins, 1-3/4 lb. of +currants, 1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist sugar, 2 +lbs. of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of +mixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. +of ground cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of pounded bitter almonds, 1/4 pint of +brandy. + +_Mode_.--Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash and +dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the +dry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs, which should +be well beaten and strained, to the pudding; stir in the brandy, and, +when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new +pudding-cloth; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly and closely, +boil from 6 to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A few sweet +almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornament +it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds. +For small families this is the most desirable way, as the above will be +found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions. + +_Time_.--6 to 8 hours. _Average cost_, 7s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 12 or 14 persons. + +_Note_.--The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose +(not in bunches): they are then scarcely higher in price than the +ordinary raisins, and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding. + +[Illustration: SULTANA GRAPE.] + + SULTANA GRAPE.--We have elsewhere stated that the small black + grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when dried, the + common currant of the grocers' shops; the white or yellow grape, + grown in the same places, is somewhat larger than the black + variety, and is that which produces the Sultana raisin. It has + been called Sultana from its delicate qualities and unique + growth: the finest are those of Smyrna. They have not sufficient + flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and + cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing, that is to + say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts of + Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings, or cakes, too, where + the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin should be + used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the _cuisine_ is + that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half Muscatels + and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes. + +A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. + +1327. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of +stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, +2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, 1/2 +saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and the +currants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other dry +ingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs to the +pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it mix +properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water, +and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in the +middle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it. + +_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 children. _Seasonable_ at Christmas. + + RAISINS.--Raisins are grapes, prepared by suffering them to + remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe, and then + drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven. The sun-dried + grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common + way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches + of them together, whilst yet on the vine, and dip them into a + hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of + olives: this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which + they are left on the vine three or four days, separated, on + sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dried in the sun at + leisure, after being cut from the tree. + +CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. + +(_Very Good_.) + +1328. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. +of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of suet, 8 eggs, 1 +wineglassful of brandy. + +[Illustration: CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING IN MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop them; +wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely; cut the +candied peel into thin slices, and grate down the bread into fine +crumbs. When all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them well +together; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which should be well +beaten, and the brandy; stir well, that everything may be very +thoroughly blended, and _press_ the pudding into a buttered mould; tie +it down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It may +be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same time +allowed for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few days +before they are required for table, when the pudding is taken out of the +pot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath to +catch the water that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten, +plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours; +then turn it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. On +Christmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the +pudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, at +the moment of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to table +encircled in flame. + +_Time_.--5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours the day it is +to be served. + +_Average cost_, 4s. + +_Sufficient_ for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasions +till March. + +_Note_.--Five or six of these puddings should be made at one time, as +they will keep good for many weeks, and in cases where unexpected guests +arrive, will be found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warming +through, a quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size are +manufactured for these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. +Slack, 336, Strand. + + BRANDY is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated + from the aqueous part, the colouring matter, &c., by + distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its German + form, _brantuein_, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has + undergone the action of fire; brandies, so called, however, have + been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other + vegetable substances; but they are all inferior to true brandy. + Brandy is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is + the most esteemed. It is procured not only by distilling the + wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the _marc_, + or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured + indifferently from red or white wine, and different wines yield + very different proportions of it, the strongest, of course, + giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a + more acrid taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of + Cognac, a town in the department of Charente, and that brought + from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from being made from + white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when + recently distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably, + to some change in the soluble matter contained in it, it + acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping in + casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of + burnt sugar or other colouring matter. What is called _British + brandy_ is not, in fact, brandy, which is the name, as we have + said, of a spirit distilled from _wine;_ but is a spirit made + chiefly from malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and + various flavouring ingredients, the exact composition being kept + secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country; + real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England + are chiefly from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac. + +A POUND PLUM-PUDDING. + +1329. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of stoned +raisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1 +teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of flour, +1/2 pint of milk. + +[Illustration: BAKED PUDDING OR CAKE-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the dry ingredients; stir +these well together, and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten +with. Beat up the mixture well, and should the above proportion of milk +not be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency, a little +more should be added. Press the pudding into a mould, tie it in a +floured cloth, and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer, and serve with +brandy-sauce. + +_Time_.--5 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. + +_Note_.--The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled; it should be +put into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 hours; a smaller +one would take about 1-1/4 hour. + + CITRON.--The fruit of the citron-tree (_Citrus medica_) is + acidulous, antiseptic, and antiscorbutic: it excites the + appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been + greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed + with cordials, it is used as an antidote to the _machineel + poison_. The candied peel is prepared in the same manner as + orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in + water until quite soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup + (in the cold), after which it is either dried in a current of + warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120 deg. + Fahrenheit. The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by + reboiling it once or twice during the process. It may be dusted + with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is supposed + to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It + is described by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its + shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose + beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour + gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but + the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries. + +PLUM-PUDDING OF FRESH FRUIT. + +1330. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1-1/2 pint of Orleans or +any other kind of plum, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar. + +_Mode_.--Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the +thickness of about 1/2 inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the +sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch them +together, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put +the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it +out of the basin, and serve quickly. + +_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August +to the beginning of October. + +[Illustration: PLUM.] + + PLUMS.--Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are + agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if + indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause + diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better + abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums are + as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections raised + against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit, which even + the invalid may eat in moderation. + +PLUM TART. + +1331. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pint of +plums, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar. + +[Illustration: PLUM TART.] + +_Mode_.--Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe +No. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upside +down, in the midst of them. Put in the sugar, cover the pie with crust, +ornament the edges, and bake in a good oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. When +puff-crust is preferred to short crust, use that made by recipe No. +1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an egg +beaten to a stiff froth with a knife; sprinkle over a little sifted +sugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August +to the beginning of October. + + +POTATO PASTY. + +1332. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepper +and salt to taste, 1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter, +mashed potatoes. + +[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN.] + +_Mode_.--Place the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the pan; +season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken, +into small pieces. Put on the perforated plate, with its valve-pipe +screwed on, and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube with +nicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, and finish the surface +of them in any ornamental manner. If carefully baked, the potatoes will +be covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury steam +rising from the meat. Send it to table as it comes from the oven, with a +napkin folded round it. + +_Time_.--40 to 60 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POTATO PUDDING. + +1333. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, +1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, +the juice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Boil sufficient potatoes to make 1/2 lb. when mashed; add to +these the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince the +lemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together. Put +the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2 +hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase the quantity +of eggs and butter. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO ICE OR GLAZE PASTRY. + +1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat or +raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beat +the former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, take +it out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg, and put +it back in the oven to set the glaze. + +1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts +and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with +the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly +baked, brush it over with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it +back into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few minutes, it will be +done. Great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burn +in the oven, which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on. + +_Sufficient_--Allow 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts. + +[Illustration: SUGAR CANES.] + + SUGAR has been happily called "the honey of reeds." The + sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies. + The Chinese have cultivated it for 2,000 years. The Egyptians, + Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it. The Greek + physicians are the first who speak of it. It was not till the + year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of purifying + brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense fortune + by this discovery. Our supplies are now obtained from Barbadoes, + Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally, + and the United States; but the largest supplies come from Cuba. + Sugar is divided into the following classes:--Refined sugar, + white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The + sugarcane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even sometimes + twenty feet. It is propagated from cuttings, requires much + hoeing and weeding, giving employment to thousands upon + thousands of slaves in the slave countries, and attains maturity + in twelve or thirteen months. When ripe, it is cut down close to + the stole, the stems are divided into lengths of about three + feet, which are made up into bundles, and carried to the mill, + to be crushed between rollers. In the process of crushing, the + juice runs down into a reservoir, from which, after a while, it + is drawn through a siphon; that is to say, the clear fluid is + taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes several processes of + drying and refining; the methods varying in different + manufactories. There are some large establishments engaged in + sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of Blackwall and Bethnal + Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German + workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pure + sugar is highly nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the + body; but it is not easy of digestion. + +BAKED RAISIN PUDDING. + +(_Plain and Economical_.) + +1336. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. of +suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in halves; +mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and +moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of +thick batter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for +1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew sifted +sugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable where +there is a family of children. It, of course, can be much improved by +the addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger proportion +of suet: a few eggs would also make the pudding richer. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. + + INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR.--Sugar was first known as a drug, and + used by the apothecaries, and with them was a most important + article. At its first appearance, some said it was heating; + others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed + persons to apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these + fancies, and the use of sugar has increased every day, and there + is no household in the civilized world which can do without it. + +BOILED RAISIN PUDDING. + +(_Plain and Economical_.) + +1337. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. +of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk. + +_Mode_.--After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely, +mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredients +are thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to make +it into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into +boiling water, and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted sugar. This +pudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolled +jam-pudding, and will then not require so long boiling;--2-1/2 hours +would then be quite sufficient. + +_Time_.--Made round, 4 hours; in a long shape, 2-1/2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. + + +BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING. + +1338. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist +sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215. + +_Mode_.--Make a suet-crust with 3/4 lb. of flour, by recipe No. 1215, +and line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, if +old, string it--that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it into +inch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover with +crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a floured +cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn +it out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar. + +_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ in spring. + + +RHUBARB TART. + +1339. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks of +large rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar. + +_Mode_.--Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deep +pie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about +1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to say, pare +off the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinks +very much in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover with crust, ornament +the edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. +If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a +stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it in the +oven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearly +baked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the peel minced, +are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarb +tart. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in spring. + +[Illustration: RHUBARB.] + + RHUBARB.--This is one of the most useful of all garden + productions that are put into pies and puddings. It was + comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty + years, but it is now cultivated in almost every British garden. + The part used is the footstalks of the leaves, which, peeled and + cut into small pieces, are put into tarts, either mixed with + apples or alone. When quite young, they are much better not + peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out. The + common rhubarb is a native of Asia; the scarlet variety has the + finest flavour. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal drug, + is the root of a very elegant plant (_Rheum palmatum_), coming + to greatest perfection in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all + kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched. + +RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME. + +1340. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 +pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt (these are +for the crust); 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a +few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, +pepper and salt, gravy. + +[Illustration: RAISED PIE.] + +_Mode_.--Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter, +flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly; butter a +raised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste. +Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird is +intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season +the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then +spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned veal, and +then one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and roll the fowl +over, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, put +in the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal and +ham and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch the +edges together with the paste-pincers, and decorate it with leaves; +brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 +hours. In the mean time, make a good strong gravy from the bones, pour +it through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with a +small leaf, and the pie, when cold, will be ready for use. Let it be +remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it is +poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a firm jelly, and not +be the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is suitable for all +kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the size +of the pie intended to be made; but the birds must always be boned. +Truffles, mushrooms, &c., added to this pie, make it much nicer; and, to +enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips +of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mould is generally +called a _timbale_, and has the advantage of being more easily made than +one where the paste is raised by the hands; the crust, besides, being +eatable. (_See_ coloured plate N 1.) _Time_.--Large pie, 4 hours. +_Average cost_, 6s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_, with poultry, all the year; with game, from September to +March. + + +RAISED PIE OF VEAL AND HAM. + +1341. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon +or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No. +415, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy. + +_Mode_.--To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficult +task, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks. The +process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty of +practice given to the making of raised pies, as by that means only will +success be insured. Make a hot-water paste by recipe No. 1217, and from +the mass raise the pie with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished, +cut out pieces for the top and bottom, and a long piece for the sides; +fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg, and pinch the +edges well together; then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No. +415, put in a layer of veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper, +nutmeg, and allspice, as, let it be remembered, these pies taste very +insipid unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer of +sliced bacon or cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, veal +seasoning, and bacon, and so on until the meat rises to about an inch +above the paste; taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, to +fill all the cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly and +compactly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on the +cover, press the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make a +hole in the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, which +should be stuck on with the white of an egg; then brush it all over with +the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake the pie in an oven with a soaking +heat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run a +sharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the +middle of the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently +baked. Have ready about 1/2 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through a +funnel into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf of +baked paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should it +acquire too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as the +crust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles, and +many other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of these +pies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These pies +are more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent dishes for +cold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is sometimes carefully +removed, leaving the perfect edges, and the top decorated with square +pieces of very bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly pretty +effect. + +_Time_.--About 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a very large pie. _Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +BAKED RICE PUDDING. + +I. + +1342. INGREDIENTS.--1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2 +oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. of currants, 2 +tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of sugar, the rind of 1/2 +lemon. + +_Mode_.--Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it infuse +till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; in the mean time, boil +the rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity of salt, and, +when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, stir to them the +milk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, and +remaining ingredients; add the rice, and mix all well together. Line the +edges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake for +about 3/4 hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel may be added at +pleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are not +obtainable. + + RICE, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very + valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food, and, in + years of scarcity, has been found eminently useful in lessening + the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed + that the grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as + dry as possible. The water in which it is dressed should only + simmer, and not boil hard. Very little water should be used, as + the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much; + and if they take up too much at first, it is difficult to get + rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing + it. + +II. + +(_Plain and Economical; a nice Pudding for Children_.) + +1343. INGREDIENTS.--1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist +sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls of +chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour in +the milk, and stir these ingredients well together; then add the butter +cut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above proportion +of finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake the +pudding, in a moderate oven, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. As the rice is not +previously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very slowly +baked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it to be +very thoroughly done. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING. + +1344. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice. + +_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for the +rice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; boil it gently +for 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely, +take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter, +or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any of +which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice. + +_Time_.--2 hours after the water boils. _Average cost_, 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +BOILED RICE PUDDING. + +I. + +1345. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of new milk, 2 oz. of +butter, 4 eggs, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls of +moist sugar, flavouring to taste. + +_Mode_.--Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk, +and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin; stir in the butter, and +let it stand to cool; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice with the +sugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such as nutmeg, +powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter almonds, or +vanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a buttered +basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil +for 1-1/4 hour. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + VARIETIES OF RICE.--Of the varieties of rice brought to our + market, that from Bengal is chiefly of the species denominated + _cargo_ rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast, but + peculiarly sweet and large-grained; it does not readily separate + from the husk, but it is preferred by the natives to all the + others. _Patua_ rice is more esteemed in Europe, and is of very + superior qualify; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and + is remarkably white. The _Carolina_ rice is considered as the + best, and is likewise the dearest in London. + +II. + +(_With Dried or Fresh fruit; a nice dish for the Nursery_.) + +1346. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruit +that may be preferred, or 1/2 lb. of raisins or currants. + +_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it to +swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil for an +hour, then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up +again tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder of +the time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweet +sauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and a +little cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit. + +_Time_.--1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer, +afterwards. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 children. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +Note.--This pudding is very good made with apples: they should be pared +cored, and cut into thin slices. + + +BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES, &c. + +1347. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of rice, water, salt. + +_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water; then +have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and keep +it boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but not +soft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the fire to dry: +do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a little with two +forks, that it may all be equally dried, and strew over a little salt. +It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, +or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in the +centre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and then +brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to colour; +but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is +by far the more preferable mode of dressing it. During the process of +boiling, the rice should be attentively watched, that it be not +overdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a mashed and soft +appearance. + +_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice. + +_Average cost_, 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for a large dish of curry. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + RICE, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is called + _paddy_, both in India and America, and it will keep better, and + for a much longer time, in this state, than after the husk has + been removed; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become + dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship, and in the + warehouses. It is sometimes brought to England in the shape of + paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays less duty than + shelled rice. + +TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c. + +(_Soyer's Recipe_.) + +1348. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water, +1-1/2 oz. of butter, a little salt. + +_Mode_.--Wash the rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts of water +boiling, and throw the rice into it; boil it until three-parts done, +then drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, put +in the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of the +fire until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan to +prevent its sticking. Prepared thus, every grain should be separate and +white. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as a +border. + +_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized curries. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BUTTERED RICE. + +1349. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of +butter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon. + +_Mode_.--Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan with +the milk; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the milk; +stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when the butter +is thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve. After the milk +is poured off, be particular that the rice does not burn: to prevent +this, do not cease stirring it. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICE was held in great esteem by the ancients: they considered it as a +very beneficial food for the chest; therefore it was recommended in +cases of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood. + + +SAVOURY CASSEROLE OF RICE. + +Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree). + +1350. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth, 2 +slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt. + +[Illustration: CASSEROLE OF RICE.] + +_Mode_.--A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such a +difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant +and inexpensive entree, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl may +be served as ragouts, fricassees, &c., inclosed in the casserole. It +requires great nicety in its preparation, the principal thing to attend +to being the boiling of the rice, as, if this is not sufficiently +cooked, the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, which +would entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or three +waters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham, +and salt; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over a +slow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it is +quite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the back of +a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste. Then +well grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for rice borders), and +turn it upside down for a minute or two, to drain away the fat, should +there be too much; put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it; +place a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice; press +it in equally with the spoon, and let it cool. Then dip the mould into +hot water, turn the casserole carefully on to a dish, mark where the lid +is to be formed on the top, by making an incision with the point of a +knife about an inch from the edge all round, and put it into a _very +hot_ oven. Brush it over with a little clarified butter, and bake about +1/2 hour, or rather longer; then carefully remove the lid, which will be +formed by the incision having been made all round, and remove the bread, +in small pieces, with the point of a penknife, being careful not to +injure the casserole. Fill the centre with the ragout or fricassee, +which should be made thick; put on the cover, glaze it, place it in the +oven to set the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. The casserole +should not be emptied too much, as it is liable to crack from the weight +of whatever is put in; and in baking it, let the oven be very hot, or +the casserole will probably break. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized casseroles. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets). + +1351. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste, +flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--This is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury +casserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt. +Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almonds +to flavour it well; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked, +and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire. +When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs; butter +a mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as in +recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compote of +any fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and serve. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice, 1/2 to 3/4 hour to bake +the casserole. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the compote or jam, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 casseroles. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ. + +1352. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/4 lb. of rice allow 1 quart of milk, the +rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of +butter, 6 eggs, bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let it +infuse for 1/2 hour, or until the former is well flavoured; then take +out the peel; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained; put it +into the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire. Stir in +the butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add the yolks +of the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be well beaten, +and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould, strew in some fine +bread crumbs, and let them be spread equally over it; then carefully +pour in the rice, and bake the pudding in a _slow_ oven for 1 hour. Turn +it out of the mould, and garnish the dish with preserved cherries, or +any bright-coloured jelly or jam. This pudding would be exceedingly +nice, flavoured with essence of vanilla. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour in a +slow oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BAKED OR BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING. + +1353. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, +sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter almonds +or bay-leaf. + +_Mode_.--Put 1-1/2 pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of the +above flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with the +other 1/2 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter; strain +the boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture is +tolerably thick; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and when +nearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, which +should be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the pudding +into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into +boiling water, and boil for 1-1/2 hour. For a baked pudding, proceed in +precisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion of +ground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients: an +hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, or +preserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or baked +pudding, and will be found an improvement. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ICED RICE PUDDING. + +1354. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. of sugar, +the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. + +_Mode_.--Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and let +these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to +break up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much, a +little more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent its +burning, then beat it to a smooth mixture; add the yolks of the eggs, +which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouring +not be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it); put +this rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed in +recipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of the +mould, and pour over the top, and round it, a _compote_ of oranges, or +any other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the flavouring +in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.; exclusive of the _compote_, 1s. 4d. + +_Seasonable_.--Served all the year round. + + +MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS. + +1355. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh +butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter +almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel. + +_Mode_.--Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire, +putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; stir to it the butter and the +other 1/2 pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add the +well-beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of +vanilla, whichever may be preferred; butter well some small cups or +moulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin, +fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn them out +of the cups on to a white d'oyley, and serve with sweet sauce. The +flavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit or +preserve served instead, with these puddings. + +_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. + +1356. INGREDIENTS.--2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4 +dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 +teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into a +stewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir +these ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is ready +for use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very much +improve the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread, +rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + + +CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. + +(_German Recipe_.) + +1357. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz. +of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little +grated lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, +sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to a +smooth paste; put the butter and flour into a saucepan; stir them over +the fire until of a pale brown; then add the cherries, the pounded +kernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for 1/4 hour, or +until the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair +sieve; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5 +minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled +batter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured over +the pudding. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + + +LEMON SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. + +1358. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of +flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful +of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; squeeze +out the juice, and strain it; put the butter and flour into a saucepan, +stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the wine, water, +and strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on +the lemon; stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet. When +these ingredients are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, put in the +beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens, when +serve. Do not, on any account, allow it to boil, or it will curdle, and +be entirely spoiled. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + + +SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING. + +1359. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powdered +sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small +wineglassfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the +former into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, and +stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do _not_ allow it to +_boil_. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire, +to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen +separately, or pour it over the pudding. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + + +SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. + +1360. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk, +4 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring; of grated +lemon-rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon. + +_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting the +salt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or +powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter, +the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half a +dozen of them in it for about 1/2 hour; the milk should then be strained +before it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may be +served for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + + +VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings. + +1361. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 10 drops +of essence of vanilla. + +_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; stir these ingredients well +together, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating the +proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence, the +size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this jug +in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce _one way_ until it +thickens; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. +Serve in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind of +dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted +for the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring of +the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served. + +_Time_.--To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + + +AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. + +1362. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. +of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 +pint of sherry or Madeira. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them over +the fire until the former thickens; then add the sugar, salt, and wine, +and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks from the +whites of 4 eggs; beat up the former, and stir them briskly to the +sauce; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of +simmering; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. +This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings; but should +be served separately, and not poured over the pudding. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes to +stir the sauce over the fire. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + + +WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. + +1363. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped +teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; 1 _large_ wineglassful of port or sherry, +or 3/4 of a _small_ glassful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting the +salt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion, +and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat or tureen +separately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding. To +convert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a small +wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon. +Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curacoa substituted for the brandy, make +excellent sauces. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + + +WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. + +1364. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of +6 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, a +few pieces of candied citron cut thin. + +_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, and +put them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is best); +add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and keep +stirring until the sauce begins to thicken; then take it off and serve. +If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediately +curdle. + +_Time_.--To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must not +boil. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for a large pudding; allow half this quantity for a +moderate-sized one. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE. + +[Illustration: OPEN TART.] + +[Illustration: OPEN-TART MOULD.] + +1365. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam. + +_Mode_.--Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving, roll out +the paste to the thickness of 1/2 an inch, and line the pan with it; +prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in a +brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fill +it with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have been +previously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready for +table. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of the +jam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked in the +oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_.--1 tart for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STRAWBERRY.--The name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from +an ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to +ripen, which is very useful to keep it moist and clean. The strawberry +belongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of these +latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all +comparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely +diffused, being found in most parts of the world, particularly in Europe +and America. + + +QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS. + +1366. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. +of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it cool before +the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour, +and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of 2; +flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well. +Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from 20 +minutes to 1/2 hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve +with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be poured over +them. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SAGO PUDDING. + +1367. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, the +rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, grated +nutmeg, puff-paste. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by the +side of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured +with the lemon; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, and +simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, and +stir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Line +the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate a +little nutmeg over the top, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked; but then +allow 2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a buttered +basin from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. + + SAGO.--Sago is the pith of a species of palm (_Cycas + circinalis_). Its form is that of a small round grain. There are + two sorts of sago,--the white and the yellow; but their + properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is + cooked, becomes transparent and soft, and retains its original + shape. Its alimentary properties are the same as those of + tapioca and arrowroot. + +SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. + +1368. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pint +of port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste; +when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon. + +_Mode_.--Wash the sago in two or three waters; then put it into a +saucepan, with the water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently by the +side of the fire for 10 minutes; then take out the lemon-peel, add the +remaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular to strain +the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial, will be +found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such as +those made of bread, raisins, rice, &c. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + + +BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING. + +1369. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. of +sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them in +it by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour; then strain it, and mix +with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the +fire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in the +eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edges +with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from +40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of +which may be poured over the pudding. + +_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + SEMOLINA.--After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful + ingredient that can be used for thickening soups, meat or + vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening, + light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant, + the aged, and the invalid. That of a clear yellow colour, well + dried and newly made, is the fittest for use. + +TAPIOCA PUDDING. + +1370. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. of butter, +1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind, or +bitter almonds. + +_Mode_.--Wash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by the +side of the fire for 1/4 hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it +cool a little; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be +well beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, putting +in about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever is +preferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put in +the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding is +boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered basin 1-1/2 +hour. + +_Time_.--1 hour to bake, 1-1/2 hour to boil. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + TAPIOCA.--Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being + easy of digestion. It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed + with milk or water, and butter. It is excellent food for either + the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly + digested without fatigue to the stomach. + +TARTLETS. + +1371. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marmalade that +may be preferred. + +[Illustration: DISH OF TARTLETS.] + +_Mode_.--Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; butter +some small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off the +superfluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece of +bread into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape), and bake in a +brisk oven for about 10 minutes, or rather longer. When they are done, +and are of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out carefully, and +replace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Dish them high on a +white d'oyley, piled high in the centre, and serve. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. each. _Sufficient_.--1 +lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING. + +1372. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. of treacle, 1/2 +teaspoonful of grated ginger. + +_Mode_.--Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215; +roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and spread the treacle equally +over it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins; close the ends +securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling +water, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, being +economical, and a favourite one with children; it is, of course, only +suitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lard +instead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would be +sufficiently done in from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Time_.--Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MEAT OR SAUSAGE ROLLS. + +1373. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat No. 837, +the yolk of 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Make 1 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the +thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, +or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place +some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the +paste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, and +trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of an +egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about 1/2 hour, or longer +should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, minced +and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour, or longer if the rolls are large. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_.--1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls. + +_Seasonable_, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April. + + +SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDINGS. + +1374. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar and +butter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence of +vanilla. + +_Mode_.--Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on one side +of the scales the eggs, and on the other the flour; then the sugar, and +then the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands beat it to a cream; +gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar, and keep stirring and +beating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth. Then +add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and either of the above +flavourings that may be preferred; butter some small cups, rather more +than half-fill them, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/2 hour. Turn +them out, dish them on a napkin, and serve custard or wine-sauce with +them. A pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold, by +cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, and +putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve, +such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste for +these puddings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is +beaten, the better will the puddings be. When served cold, they are +usually called _gateaux a la Madeleine_. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat. + +1375. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 1/2 +saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk or +water. + +_Mode_.--Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and mix +it well with the flour; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingredient +may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole into a +smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie the pudding +in a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 2-1/2 +to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of the milk +or water, and increase the proportion of suet. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may be +boiled in a long shape, and then cut into slices a few minutes before +dinner is served: these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a +minute or two, and then browned before the fire. Most children like this +accompaniment to roast meat. Where there is a large family of children, +and the means of keeping them are limited, it is a most economical plan +to serve up the pudding before the meat: as, in this case, the +consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwise +would be. + + +SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS. + +1376. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful +of salt. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste, previously +adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round dumplings; +drop them into boiling water, and boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They may be +served with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case they may be cooked +with the meat, but should be dropped into the water when it is quite +boiling. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. + +_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +VERMICELLI PUDDING. + +1377. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of +cream, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stir +in the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable. +Flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds, +or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the edges with puff-paste, put in +the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 3/4 hour. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. without cream. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +VERMICELLI.--The finest vermicelli comes from Marseilles, Nimes, and +Montpellier. It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiar +thread-like form. Vermicelli means, little worms. + + +VICARAGE PUDDING. + +1378. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. +of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 1/2 +teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stoned +the raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants; mix well with a +clean knife; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, and +put in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, plunge in +the pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on the dish, and serve +with sifted sugar. + +_Time_.--3 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding. + + +VOL-AU-VENT (an Entree). + +1379. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, fricasseed +chickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked and +warmed in thick white sauce. + +[Illustration: VOL-AU-VENT.] + +_Mode_.--Make from 3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste, by recipe No. 1208, +taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure its +rising properly; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into a +good hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the _vol-au-vent_ will +look very badly. Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1-1/2 +inch, and, with a fluted cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape, +either round or oval, and, with the point of a small knife, make a +slight incision in the paste all round the top, about an inch from the +edge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the _vol-au-vent_ into a +good brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it is +put in. Particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven, +for the paste _cannot_ rise without a tolerable degree of heat When of a +nice colour, without being scorched, withdraw it from the oven, +instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the soft +crumb from the centre: in doing this, be careful not to break the edges +of the _vol-au-vent_; but should they look thin in places, stop them +with small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the white of an +egg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragout +from bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of the dish. Fill +the _vol-au-vent_ with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragout, or the +remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, and do not +make them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the crust: replace +the lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the crust, brush it +over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly.--See coloured +plate O1. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to bake the _vol-au-vent_. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of interior, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.] + +_Note_.--Small _vol-au-vents_ may be made like those shown in the +engraving, and filled with minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be made +of the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped out with a small +fluted cutter. + + +SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OF PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY OTHER FRESH FRUIT. + +1380. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, about 1 pint of +fruit compote. + +_Mode_.--Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1208, taking care to +bake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it look +light. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must be +boiled down until very thick; fill the _vol-au-vent_ with this, and pile +it high in the centre; powder a little sugar over it, and put it back in +the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose: the +_vol-au-vent_ is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruit +that is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants, +cherries, apples, &c.; but care must be taken not to have the syrup too +thin, for fear of its breaking through the crust. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the compote, 1s. 1d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. + + +VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM. + +1381. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, 1 pint of +freshly-gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped +cream. + +_Mode_.--Make a _vol-au-vent_ case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite so +large nor so high as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush the +paste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some pounded +sugar, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove the +interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with the +strawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficient +sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on +the top, and serve. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 _vol-au-vent_. + +_Seasonable_ in June and July. + + STRAWBERRY.--Among the Greeks, the name of the strawberry + indicated its tenuity, this fruit forming hardly a mouthful. + With the Latins, the name reminded one of the delicious perfume + of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied + the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in + the same rank with flowers; and Ovid gives it a tender epithet, + which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither does this + luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears + beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented air + reveals. + +WEST-INDIAN PUDDING. + +1382. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. of loaf-sugar, 1/2 lb. of +Savoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger. +_Mode_.--Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour over +them the cream, which should be previously sweetened and brought to the +boiling-point; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and when the cream +is soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange the ginger round it, +pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; steam or +boil it slowly for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with the syrup from the ginger, +which should be warmed, and poured over the pudding. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 8d. + +Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. + + +YEAST DUMPLINGS. + +1383. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 quartern of dough, boiling water. + +Mode.--Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk, +instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them into +boiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the instant they are +taken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and becoming heavy; and in +eating them do not touch them with a knife, but tear them apart with two +forks. They may be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter and sugar, and +if not convenient to make the dough at home, a little from the baker's +answers as well, only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire, +in a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise again before it is made +into dumplings. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + YEAST consists principally of a substance very similar in + composition, and in many of its sensible properties, to gluten; + and, when new or fresh, it is inflated and rendered frothy by a + large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this + substance acts upon the saccharine matter; the temperature + rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the result is _ale_, + which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or + spirit. The quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being + small, the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed: + hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and + gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is + remarkable. The fermenting property of yeast is weakened by + boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing + the boiling. Alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert; + on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed + during fermentation. + +YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef. + + +1384. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 _large_ tablespoonfuls of +flour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt. + +[Illustration: YORKSHIRE PUDDING.] + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually to +this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectly +smooth, and all the lumps are well rubbed down, add the remainder of the +milk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat the mixture for a +few minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previously +well rubbed with beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bake +it for an hour; then, for another 1/2 hour, place it under the meat, to +catch a little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into +small square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is +baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former on +a small three-cornered stand. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLES, OMELETS, & SWEET +DISHES. + +1385. CREAMS.--The yellowish-white, opaque fluid, smooth and unctuous to +the touch, which separates itself from new milk, and forms a layer on +its surface, when removed by skimming, is employed in a variety of +culinary preparations. The analyses of the contents of cream have been +decided to be, in 100 parts--butter, 3.5; curd, or matter of cheese, +3.5; whey, 92.0. That cream contains an oil, is evinced by its staining +clothes in the manner of oil; and when boiled for some time, a little +oil floats upon the surface. The thick animal oil which it contains, the +well-known _butter_, is separated only by agitation, as in the common +process of _churning_, and the cheesy matter remains blended with the +whey in the state of _buttermilk_. Of the several kinds of cream, the +principal are the Devonshire and Dutch clotted creams, the Costorphin +cream, and the Scotch sour cream. The Devonshire cream is produced by +nearly boiling the milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal fire, and +kept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up. It is used +for eating with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a village +of that name near Edinburgh, is accelerated in its separation from three +or four days' old milk, by a certain degree of heat; and the Dutch +clotted cream--a coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright--is +manufactured from fresh-drawn milk, which is put into a pan, and stirred +with a spoon two or three times a day, to prevent the cream from +separating from the milk. The Scotch "sour cream" is a misnomer; for it +is a material produced without cream. A small tub filled with skimmed +milk is put into a larger one, containing hot water, and after remaining +there all night, the thin milk (called _wigg_) is drawn off, and the +remainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is "sour cream." + +1386. JELLIES are not the nourishing food they were at one time +considered to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they +are less digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals; still, +when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are very +suitable for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinct +principle, existing in fruits, which possesses the property of +gelatinizing when boiled and cooled; but it is a principle entirely +different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name of +jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on that +subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is glue, whereas vegetable jelly is +rather analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the +scale of usefulness. He says, "Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless, +and when eaten, excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value; that, even +when accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capable +of supporting the vital process, and when added to the usual diet as a +substitute for plastic matter, does not increase, but, on the contrary, +diminishes the nutritive value of the food, which it renders +insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality." It is this substance +which is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jellies +supplied by the confectioner; but those prepared at home from calves' +feet do possess some nutrition, and are the only sort that should be +given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and is +prepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chiefly +the sturgeon. From its whiteness it is mostly used for making +blanc-mange and similar dishes. + +1387. THE WHITE OF EGGS is perhaps the best substance that can be +employed in clarifying jelly, as well as some other fluids, for the +reason that when albumen (and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen) +is put into a liquid that is muddy, from substances suspended in it, on +boiling the liquid, the albumen coagulates in a flocculent manner, and, +entangling with it the impurities, rises with them to the surface as a +scum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight. + +1388. SOUFFLES, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES, in which eggs form the +principal ingredient, demand, for their successful manufacture, an +experienced cook. They are the prettiest, but most difficult of all +entremets. The most essential thing to insure success is to secure the +best ingredients from an honest tradesman. The entremets coming within +the above classification, are healthy, nourishing, and pleasant to the +taste, and may be eaten with safety by persons of the most delicate +stomachs. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + + +BAKED APPLE CUSTARD. + +1389. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste, 1 small +teacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4 +eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan +with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweeten +with moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put the +fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made with +the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg +over the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35 +minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish. + +_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets). + +1390. INGREDIENTS.--Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good boiling +apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little +apricot jam. + +_Mode_.--Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them; +boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples, +and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them +break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, and +flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the +apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in between +them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in the +oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; either +brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10 +minutes in the oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. + +_Note_.--The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for +another occasion. + + +FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST. + +_(Sweet Entremets.)_ + +1391. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9 +moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of white +sugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron. + +_Mode_.--Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it out +to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with the +crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form of +the mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part that +just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the case +with flour; bake it for about 3/4 hour; then take it out of the oven, +remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 1/4 hour, +and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples, +which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out the +cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividing +the apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable of +holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the above +proportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the +apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil down +the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and +garnish them with a few slices of candied citron. + +1392. A MORE SIMPLE FLANC may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting +the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the +sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottom +piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugar +to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould; +but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and so +perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also be +served hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a little +melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very much +improves their flavour. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes to +stew the apples very gently. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLE FRITTERS. + +1393. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, +1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified +beef-dripping. + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat +them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, which +should be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficient +warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batter +that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps that +may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previously +well whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready for +use. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, without +dividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the core +is, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan of +boiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one by +one, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning +them--when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper +before the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a white +d'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar, +and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much +improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with +sugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; the +batter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters +are made. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG. + +1394. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1/2 lb. of sugar, +1/2 pint of water, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, the whites of +2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds. + +_Mode_.--Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, and +stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. of sugar and 1/2 +pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Have +ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thin +slices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boil +gently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred, +to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some of +the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in the +insides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; then +place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade +as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites +of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover +the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each +almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over +the icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and +place the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for the +apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, and +makes a pretty supper-dish. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. to 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets or Dessert Dishes. + +1395. INGREDIENTS.--Apples; to every lb. of pulp allow 3/4 lb. of sugar, +1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel. + +[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.] + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water to +prevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of pulp +allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water; +put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can be +well skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the minced +lemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or until +the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then +done, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in +water, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for the +latter a little custard should be poured round, and it should be +garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutes +to boil after the sugar is added. + +_Sufficient._--1-1/2 lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March; but is best in September, October or +November. + + +CLEAR APPLE JELLY. + +1396. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen apples, 1-1/2 pint of spring-water; to every +pint of juice allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, the +rind of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them, +with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and run +the juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugar +and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in 1/2 pint of water, +into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/4 +hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear, +and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table, +with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of a +little lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render the +jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rather +a larger proportion of sugar must be used. + +_Time_.--From 1 to 1-1/2 hour to boil the apples; 1/4 hour the jelly. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a 1-1/2-pint mould. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +A PRETTY DISH OF APPLES AND RICE. + +1397. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 +lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. of +sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423. + +_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together for +a few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with +sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is +quite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and core +the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and +water in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieve +to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; lay +the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth the +rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, one +row sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven to +colour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot, +garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle +sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top of +the rice, and serve hot. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 3/4 hour to simmer +the rice; 1/4 hour to bake. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE. + +1398. INGREDIENTS.--8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of +sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries, +garnishing of apricot jam. + +_Mode_.--Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the +cores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without +being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white +apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dish +with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile them +neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a +preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied +citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table. + +_Time_.--From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLES IN RED JELLY. + +(_A pretty Supper Dish_.) + +1399. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar, 1 +lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few drops +of prepared cochineal. + +_Mode_.--Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores, +either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2 +cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without +touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the +juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a +dish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as +each apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in +the oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the +appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish +without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have been +stewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a +tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold +water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till +quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain +the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool _a little_; +then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish +the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the +white of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar. + +_Time_.--From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples. + +_Average cost_, 1s., with the garnishing. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLES AND RICE. + +_(A Plain Dish.)_ + +1400. INGREDIENTS.--8 good sized apples, 3 oz. of butter, the rind of +1/2 lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, sugar to +taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot +jam. + +_Mode_.--Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put them +into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar over +to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the apples +very gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice, +with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done, +dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm the +apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot. + +_Time_.--About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about 3/4 hour +to cook the rice. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLE SNOW. + +(_A pretty Supper Dish_.) + +1401. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs, the +rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them into +a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from +burning,--rather less than 1/2 pint. When they are tender, take out the +peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites of +the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add the +sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite +stiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses. +The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips of +bright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it, +or a jug of cream. + +_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a moderate-sized glass dish. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLE SOUFFLE. + +1402. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 +lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz. +of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395. + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well +flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell +over a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then +crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; line +the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into the +oven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that the +border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beaten +yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until the +mixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of the +eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir all +together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for +about 1/2 hour, or until the souffle rises very light. It should be +watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is +taken from the oven. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +STEWED APPLES AND CUSTARD. + +(_A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper_.) + +1403. INGREDIENTS.--7 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon or 4 +cloves, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No. +1423. + +_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing +them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water +together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or +cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they +are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a +glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes, +let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite 1/2 +pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over, +the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. A +few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, would +improve their appearance.--See coloured plate Q1. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a large glass dish. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLE TRIFLE. + +(_A Supper Dish_.) + +1404. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz. +of pounded sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 eggs, whipped +cream. + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them +into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced +lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples +through a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a little +more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick +layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar, +over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reach +the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool a +little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar, +lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles; heap it high over the +custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancy +dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c. + +_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir +the custard over the fire. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized trifle. + +_Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APRICOT CREAM. + +1405. INGREDIENTS.--12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint +of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a +syrup made with 1/4 lb. of sugar and 1/4 pint of water, until they form +a thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the +other 1/4 lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks +of eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a +jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire +until it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a +sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of +water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with +the apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient, +set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on +the dish without any difficulty. + +_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. + +_Note_.--In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a +little jam may be substituted for them. + + +FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust. + +_(Sweet Entremets.)_ + +1406. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12 +good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with it +as directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 +minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in the +syrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the moment +they are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc or +case; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit, +and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches, +&c., may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries, +gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with the last-named fruits, a +little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to +simmer the apricots. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. + + +ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE. + +(_An inexpensive Supper Dish_.) + +1407. INGREDIENTS.--4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of +milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of the milk; +put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel, +whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well +flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed +arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it +all the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan. +Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and when +quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compote of any +kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy, +stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves +the flavour of this sweet dish. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 6d. without the garnishing. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BLANC-MANGE. + +(_A Supper Dish_.) + +1408. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of new milk, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, the rind +of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. of sweet +almonds, 1 pint of cream. + +[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind, +and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until +the milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanched +and pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up; +strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and +stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a few +minutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiled +with the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be a +sediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the +mould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance +of the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer by +using 1-1/2 pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 1/2 pint of +boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding +bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the +lemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curacoa, or any favourite +liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of +this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of +the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quickly +over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smooth +glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has not +when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates. + +_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the +milk. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CHEAP BLANC-MANGE. + +1409. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of +isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves. + +[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE.] + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently +until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain +when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them +out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes. +Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour +it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it +out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a +compote of fruit. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS. + +1410. INGREDIENTS.--Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4 +tablespoonfuls of jam. + +_Mode_.--Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut +some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them +with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices; +slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round +pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10 +minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or +cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT. + +1411. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water. + +[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.] + +[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.] + +_Mode_.--The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it +is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be +so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure +from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair; +slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the +feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above +proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every +particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very +gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than +half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool +place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the +proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at +the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour +over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the +jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it +into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 +oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and +stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but +_do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_. Let it boil about 10 +minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold +water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover +it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag +into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or +the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the +jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin +underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should +it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock +is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in +innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by +moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being +firm when turned out, 1/2 oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to +the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now +frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble +in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of +the principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ as +nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, +having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, +particularly when made with gelatine. + +_Time_.--About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify +it,--1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered. + +_Average cost_.--Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is +in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce. + +_Sufficient_.--2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year. + + HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.--The very stout flannel called + double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for + a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be + relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be + taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it + against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using + the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside + of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it + at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any + size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or + eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The + form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap. + +COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES. + +(More Economical than Calf's Feet.) + +1412. INGREDIENTS.--2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled; +split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well +in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of +cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises, +and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is +reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, +and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet +stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. of +isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is +required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 +hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2 +quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the +day before it is required. + +_Time_.--7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the +shank-bones. + +_Average cost_, from 4d. to 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY. + +(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_.) + +1413. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water. + +_Mode_.--Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above +proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very +fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as +it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for +use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a +fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz. +of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong +calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of +fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is +difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the +stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass +must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all +kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized +moulds. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be +mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the +bag. + + ISINGLASS.--The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of + an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the + East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale + dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for + domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant + odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior + kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass + is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of + the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold + water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass + will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy," + and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the + isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the + commoner sorts of gelatine,--for isinglass is classed amongst + gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and + best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely + dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and + jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden. + +HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES. + +1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the +jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is +sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly +into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out +by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, +put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then +slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished +as taste dictates. + + +TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES. + +1415. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; +the white of 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire, +and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up +with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very +gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises, +strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it +for use. + + +CALF'S-FEET JELLY. + +1416. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of +sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5 +eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care +to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put +it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining +ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed +on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do not +stir it after it begins to warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water, +boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of +the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering, +the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular +attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the +slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when +the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer +for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a +stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin +underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly +clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is +obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour +in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand, +surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be +firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which +to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by +her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a +great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds +in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on +the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip +out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled +high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or +tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition +being often spoiled by using the latter. + +[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.] + +To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for +the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of +calf's feet. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered. + +_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make +the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other +ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to. + + +SHERRY.--There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there +are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, +and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the +agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and +fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years. +Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that +it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments +on wines do not fully confirm this opinion. + + +CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS. + +(_Sweet Entremets_.) + +1417. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind +of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with +jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very +pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205; +roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2 +inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, +wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_ +slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the +frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a +nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are +coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the +fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. +These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved +fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid +in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and +fried in the same manner as stated above. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_,--1/2 lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons. + +_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time. + + +CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES. + +1418. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick, +clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2 +dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry. + +[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.] + +_Mode_.--Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain +round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height +of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified +butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich); +place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow +strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no +juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the +mould. Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist to +make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No. +1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round +piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom; +slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces; +put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of a +light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top, +and pour round it a little melted apricot jam. + +_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES. + +1419. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of +powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass +of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 +dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder; +moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper +consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the +middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them +breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed +into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient +raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak +them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; +place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a +layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and +lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it with +pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten +hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright +jelly just before it is sent to table. + +_Time_.--1 hour to bake the cake. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +1420. INGREDIENTS.--9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized +apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice, +moist sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without +the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut +into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and +juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and +butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish +is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the +top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than +3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and +serve. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_.) + +1421. INGREDIENTS.--About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream, +flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded +sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they +are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg, +and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or +rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so +closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and +place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg. +Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted +isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake +cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till +ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1 +tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would +nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits +in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in +nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out, +there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is +required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst +the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity +of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent +the charlotte from coming away properly. + +_Time_.--5 minutes in the oven. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CREAM A LA VALOIS. + +1422. INGREDIENTS.--4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to +taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of +isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with +preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry +mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the +lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in +a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled +mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with +the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the +mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out +more easily than when merely dipped in cold water. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BOILED CUSTARDS. + +1423. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 +laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of +vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. + +[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.] + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and +whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind +flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side +of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of +boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the +milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixture +into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire; +keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no account +allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be +full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this +is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be +rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top, +and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better, +ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the +flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary +eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When +desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the +milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting +the whites. + +_Time_. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the +custard. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GINGER APPLES. + +(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_.) + +1424. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3 +lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons. + +_Mode_.--Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over +sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut +the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar +and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together +_very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve +cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or +preserved ginger. + +_Time_.--3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples +very gently. + +_Average cost_, 2s, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes. _Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +FRENCH PANCAKES. + +1425. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2 +oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk. + +_Mode_.--Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the +butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, +and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring +and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates, +and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and +sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of +preserve or marmalade between each. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DUTCH FLUMMERY. + +1426. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1 +lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or +raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan, +and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a +basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, +which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded +sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a +saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way +until it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_. Strain it into +a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put +it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just +before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish: +it is better if made the day before it is required for table. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the +mixture over the fire. + +_Average cost_, 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter + are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which + has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale + sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being + supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people. + The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a + cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the + making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the + London dealers. + +CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE. + +1427. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1 +teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate. + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put +them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and +chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these +ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the +other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the +yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round +cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 +minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the +top of the souffle, and send it immediately to table. The proper +appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it +is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander +over the souffle until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand +after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls +almost immediately. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized souffle. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DARIOLES A LA VANILLE. + +(_Sweet Entremets_.) + +1428. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour, +3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring +of essence of vanilla. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the +cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter, +which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop +by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds +with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a +good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, +without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The +flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon, +cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla. + +_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CURRANT FRITTERS. + +1429. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs, +3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar to +taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should +previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir +these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice, +currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if +not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small +quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the +fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of +blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew +over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table +with them. + +_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CHOCOLATE CREAM. + +1430. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 +pint of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs. + +[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the +grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these +ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a +saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens, +but _do not allow it to boil_, or it will curdle. Strain the cream +through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2 +pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and +pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest +salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire. + +_Average cost_, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GENEVA WAFERS. + +1431. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of +pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them +the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted +sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, +and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space +between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when +half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread +or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until +crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in +the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty +and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very +easily made. + +_Time_.--Altogether 20 to 25 minutes. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for a nice-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GINGER CREAM. + +1432. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of +preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1 +oz. of isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup, +the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well +together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the +mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, +sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and +strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with +slices of preserved ginger or candied citron. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for a good-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by + scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then + peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a + rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen + of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is + dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots, + fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been + produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh. + +TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL. + +1433. INGREDIENTS.--Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pint +of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a +jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set +this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit +is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this +pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of +milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is +sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and +in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to +these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very +old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and, +if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint, with milk. + +_Sufficient_.--A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6 +children. + +_Seasonable_ in May and June. + + +GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE. + +1434. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of +custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream. + +_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to +sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at +the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by +recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream +should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then +be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy +dictates. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ in May and June. + + +INDIAN FRITTERS. + +1435. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolks +of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient +_boiling_ water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and +beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to +cool, and then break into it (_without beating them at first_) the yolks +of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have +ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in +at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so +much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of +preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an +excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly +arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great +favourite. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the jam, 5d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +INDIAN TRIFLE. + +1436. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar +to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, +1/2 pint of custard. + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well +flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which +should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar +to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the +mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool _a little_, and pour +it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star, +or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and +fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into +strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of +brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: THE CITRON.] + + THE CITRON.--The citron belongs to the same species as the + lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction + between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less + succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the + citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and + Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in + length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent + lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in + medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when + candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are + several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed + the Forbidden Fruit. + +ITALIAN CREAM. + +1437. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1 +oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten, +and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it +into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a +jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and +stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil. +Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass, +which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if +at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may +dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small +glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN. + +(_A pretty Supper Dish_.) + +1438. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4 +pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam. + +_Mode_.--Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them +and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and +sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well +beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but +it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it +with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish +is served cold. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the mixture. + +_Average cost_, with the jam, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +JAUNEMANGE. + +1439. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of +white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the +yolks of 6 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and +boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained +lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole +nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add +the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a +saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until it +thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, and +keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the +sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to +stir the mixture in the jug. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS. + +1440. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nice +strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh +fruit that may be in season. + +_Mode_.--Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very +clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity +of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless +currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the +tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which +must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould, +recollecting; that _it will be reversed when turned out;_ then pour in +some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set, +put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If +convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth +in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the +jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better +for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the +jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put +in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty +jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a +bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the +jelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be +garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an +open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of +the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be +substituted for the fruit. + +[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.] + +_Time_.--One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place, +before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any +time. + + +JELLY OF TWO COLOURS. + +1441. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a few +drops of prepared cochineal. + +[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.] + +_Mode_.--Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more +economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way +that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of +prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have +ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the +red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same +quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this +manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set +before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the +other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For +variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies, +and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty +effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured +in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or +blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very +well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in +depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is +added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are +frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made, +in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by +melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water, +and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate +S1.) + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to make the jelly. + +_Average cost_, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup, +more economical. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or +the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly. + + +LEMON BLANCMANGE. + +1442. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of +ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the rind +of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. of gelatine. + +[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and 1/2 pint of the +milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the +milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and +3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is +stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where +the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the +rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the +fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the +basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the +lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture +into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould +in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have +rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a +larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 2 small moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON CREAM. + +1443. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of +white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass. + +[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the cream into a _lined_ saucepan with the sugar, +lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about +10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add +the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a +saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens, +_but do not allow it to boil_; take it off the fire, and keep stirring +it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually +pour on it the cream, and _stir it well_ until the juice is well mixed +with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let +it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges +with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it +over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over +the fire in the jug. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s. +6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM. + +1444. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of +gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which +should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump +sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks +of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the +mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir +briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep +stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and +let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to +the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put +in. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the milk. _Average cost_, 2s. 5d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON CREAMS. + +(_Very good_.) + +1445. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of +sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the +cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and +sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from +one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it +into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and +delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the +almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 12 glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS. + +1446. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the +rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:--Dissolve the +sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar, +rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the +lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be +well beaten; stir this _one way_ over the fire until the mixture +thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or +on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and +lemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs are +added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the +custard over the fire. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON JELLY. + +1447. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water, +1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry. + +_Mode_.--Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on the +rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2 +pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20 +minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of +the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add +the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has +been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let +it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice +to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as, +if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly +thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it +answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for +instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above, +would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with +calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of +stock. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON SPONGE. + +1448. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. of +pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3 +eggs. + +_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan, +and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15 +minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to +stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the +mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been +previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it +out, and garnish it according to taste. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. +6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LIQUEUR JELLY. + +1449. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, 1-1/2 pint +of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur. + +[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and +boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum +remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the +isinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in the +same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified +isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the +boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire +for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a +mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould +in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife +round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau, +Maraschino, Curacoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this +jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually +prepared as directed above. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI. + +1450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of +1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar; +bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it +gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break. +The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be +firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry +away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more. +Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and +pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg, +and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron. + +_Time_.--From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni. + +_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MERINGUES. + +1451. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs. + +[Illustration: MERINGUES.] + +_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a +wooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boards +thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues +from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches +wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time +of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the +same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of +an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on +the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate +oven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the +oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the +table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue. +Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down, +and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When +required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur +or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues +together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed +drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants +may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may +be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is +necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put +into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts, +and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its +egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be; +but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most +likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if +kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six +weeks. + +_Time_.--Altogether, about 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +NOYEAU CREAM. + +1452. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, +noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream. + +_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the +lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau +and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream +well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool +place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM. + +(_A very pretty dish_.) + +1453. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of +sherry, sugar to taste. + +[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.] + +_Mode_.--Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly, +colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a +mould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill it +with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set; +then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream, +flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream +high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark +colour, to contrast nicely with the cream. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ORANGE JELLY. + +1454. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2 +lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges. + +[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and +the rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over the +fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to +this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and +sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10 +oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire +until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the +jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put +it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a +dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the +orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass +clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to +heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is +added. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE. + +1455. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1 +pint of clarified syrup. + +_Mode_.--Boil 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until there +is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), +and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without +breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup, +where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use +the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When +the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a +little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few +pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, +place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the +mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it +out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been +wrung out in boiling water. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer the oranges. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET. + +1456. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful of +pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter. + +[Illustration: OMELET.] + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat +them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz. +of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture. +Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and, +as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a +minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon +one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole +is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form; +and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To +take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for +a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve +very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is +just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by +adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, +allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the +latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be +added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded +and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful +that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large +a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of +the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and +should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may +be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served +with gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in a +tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, +instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour +should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with +arrowroot or rice flour. + +_Time_.--With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6 +minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +HAM OMELET (_A delicious Breakfast Dish_.) + +1457. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, +2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham. + +_Mode_.--Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2 +minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in +the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt +to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a +flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well +for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to +mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy. + +_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +KIDNEY OMELET (_A favourite French dish_.) + +1458. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of +pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5 +oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a +frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix +the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and when +the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter +hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry +it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold +the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful +that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the +fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour +is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on +to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the +omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant +it comes from the fire. + +_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET. + +1459. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar. + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk +them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be +broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together. +Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and +when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them +until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make +it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan +before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a +_very hot_ dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve. + +_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET. + +1460. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of +apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred. + +_Mode_.--Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it +over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one +side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it +the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar +over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made +by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately; +they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve, +and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted +sugar before being sent to table. + +_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +OMELETTE SOUFFLE. + +1461. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of +vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1 +dessert-spoonful of rice-flour. + +_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the +former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings +that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip +the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the +butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the +batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when +the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and +slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered. +Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle +finely-powdered sugar over the souffle, and _serve it immediately_. + +_Time_.--About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_. 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BACHELOR'S OMELET. + +1462. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of +flour, 1/2 teacupful of milk. + +_Mode_.--Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs, +mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. +Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the +batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then +sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion; +double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot +dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process, +substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs. + +_Time_.--2 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ORANGE CREAM. + +1463. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar +to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream. + +[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and +put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make +in all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to +the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes. +Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint of +thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream, +and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of +isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of +ingredients. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the juice and water. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +ORANGE CREAMS. + +1464. INGREDIENTS.--1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb. +of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream. + +_Mode_.--Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it +in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the +orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes, +adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the +boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and +beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the +cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite +cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of +the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 creams. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + +_Note_.--To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the +cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm. + + SEVILLE ORANGE (_Citrus vulgaris_).--This variety, called also + _bitter orange_, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and + grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in + Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part + of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges, + which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the + bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated + from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is + contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic, + much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange. + The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this + orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is + distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a + sweetmeat. + +ORANGE FRITTERS. + +1465. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, +1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified +dripping. + +_Mode_.--Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour, +butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper +consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as +possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the +thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in +the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop +in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When +done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain +away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle +over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly. + +_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES. + +1466. INGREDIENTS.--6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of +water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar +to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until +the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small +quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is +sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as +much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized +slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy +pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot +sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be +well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should +be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let +the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a +dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of +liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly +ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +TO MAKE PANCAKES. + +1467. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. of +flour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt. + +[Illustration: PANCAKES.] + +_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in +a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and +a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly _smooth_ batter; +then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this +latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.; +but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of +thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be +delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put +into it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. to each pancake. +When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5 +inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is +nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter, +and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an +operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the +pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the +pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before +the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish; +then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further +quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately +they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little +grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them +instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them. +To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs +should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the +batter before frying. + +_Time_.--from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require +turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one. + +_Average cost_, for 3 persons, 6d. + +_Sufficient._--Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion, +for 3 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday. + + +RICHER PANCAKES. + +1468. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 +glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour. + +_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well, +strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as +much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary +pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in +sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5 +minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar +between each, and serve. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 8 pancakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday. + + +PEACH FRITTERS. + +1469. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, +1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;--peaches, hot lard or clarified +dripping. + +_Mode_.--Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in +recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be +quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or +clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before +the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry +them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a +white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve. + +_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain +them. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. + +[Illustration: PEACH.] + + PEACH.--The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious + of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same + species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by + a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a + proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches + in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit + has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are + almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that + the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows + naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it + by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the + generic name, separating them from _Amygdalus_, or Almond, to + which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical, + they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection: + hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons, + without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a + high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin, + of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green + next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of + highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone + small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit + is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve. + +PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE. + +1470. INGREDIENTS.--6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the +yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatine. + +_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and +steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a +saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with +the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then +brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted +sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil +it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it +remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared +cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish. + +_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to +boil the syrup. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for a large dish. + +_Seasonable_ from August to February. + + +MOULDED PEARS. + +1471. INGREDIENTS.--4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to +taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a +strip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatine. + +_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with +3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the +whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a +gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When +done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and +boil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine, +lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil +quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put +the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a +glass dish. + +_Time_.--2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_ from August to February + + +PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. + +(_An elegant Dish_.) + +1472. INGREDIENTS.--A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy or +liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393. + +_Mode_.--This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is +really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now +in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be +purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be +economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for +the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as +possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the +above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours; +then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream +for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is +ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to +8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when +done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white +d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly. + +_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes. + +_Average cost_, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August. + + PINEAPPLE.--The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two + hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above + a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in + Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the + 17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in + England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington + Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented + as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is + presenting it on his knees. + +PLAIN FRITTERS. + +1473. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk. + +[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the +milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the +remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and +should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three +tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of +boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time +of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when +sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy +moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the +fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and +send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar. + +_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POTATO FRITTERS. + +1474. INGREDIENTS.--2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, +2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4 +teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard. + +[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do +not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well, +leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all +together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely +light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a +tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a +nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:--A glass of sherry +mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to +sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce +separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white +d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well +drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being +dished. + +_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RASPBERRY CREAM. + +1475. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of +isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, or +until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a +basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly, +which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the +ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a +little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until +nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place +till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but +must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in +summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it +with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows +from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the +colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be +added to improve its appearance. (_See_ coloured plate T1.) + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_, with jelly, at any time. + +_Note_.--Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner, +substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry. + + +RICE BLANCMANGE. + +1476. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. +of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of +almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves. + +_Mode_.--Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the +milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and +whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to +the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about +10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it +well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in +the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite +easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compote of any kind of +fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for +being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become +firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the +milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of +essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would +be required to flavour the above proportion of milk. + +_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICE CROQUETTES. + +1477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of pounded +sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and +bread crumbs, hot lard. + +_Mode_.--Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the +former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried +up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of +any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into +small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread +crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them +about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from +them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or +two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A +small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each +croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry +the croquettes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 croquettes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICE FRITTERS. + +1478. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1 +oz. of fresh butter 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a +slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. +When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left, +and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over +the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to +the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly +cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for +apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley, +strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry +the fritters. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 fritters. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICE SNOWBALLS. (_A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers_.) + +1479. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of +essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No. +1423. + +_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of +essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a +little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite +soft, put it into teacups, or _small_ round jars, and let it remain +until cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a +custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a +small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla +may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when +either of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard must +correspond with that of the rice. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice in the milk. + +_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICE SOUFFLE. + +1480. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5 +eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee, +chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter the size +of a walnut. + +_Mode_.--Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite +smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and +butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 1/4 hour, or until +the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, +beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficient +pounded sugar to sweeten the souffle; but add this latter ingredient as +sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighter +will be the souffle. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth +or snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into a +souffle-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about 1/2 hour +in a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over +the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the souffle to table in +the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosed +in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dish +entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, the +manner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table. +Souffles should be served _instantly_ from the oven, or they will sink, +and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE A SOUFFLE. + +1481. INGREDIENTS.--3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour, +arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter +the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt +flavouring. + +_Mode_.--Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredients +is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with the +remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar to +sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the +mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little. +Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and +stir them into the souffle batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to +the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the +dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence +of any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange, +ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a souffle-dish, put it immediately +into the oven, and bake for about 1/2 hour; then take it out, put the +dish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose; +hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffle, strew it with sifted +sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a souffle +well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, the +oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from the +oven. If the souffle be ever so well made, and it is allowed to stand +before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirely +spoiled. Souffles may be flavoured in various ways, but must be named +accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherche +flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the +salamander over. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE. + +(_A very pretty Supper Dish_.) + +1482. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste, +flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten +it nicely, and the rind of 1/2 lemon. Let this steep by the side of the +fire for 1/2 hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from the +yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, or +until there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point, +and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning the +eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat up +the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar, +and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of +boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do +not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the +eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly +pretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place after +being made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water, +it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence of +either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. In +making the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always be +added. + +_Time_.--About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir the +custard. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STONE CREAM OF TOUS LES MOIS. + +1483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of lump +sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence of +cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring. + +_Mode_.--Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milk +into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth +batter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it briskly +into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes. +When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam, +and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit. + +_Time_.--2 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STRAWBERRY JELLY. + +1484. INGREDIENTS.--Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice +allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass. + +_Mode_.--Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well +with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them +nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted; +then add 1/2 pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the +strawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pint +allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water. +Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould +in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the +flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well +strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the +jelly muddy. + +_Time_.--1 hour to draw the juice. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + + +SWISS CREAM. + +1485. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes, +sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls of +arrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls +of milk. + +_Mode_.--Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pour +over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak them +well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar and +lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is +well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothly +with the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently for +about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stir +till nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over the +cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cut +thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedingly +delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouring +is used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the +_dry_ cakes. + +_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil the +cream. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE SYLLABUB. + +1486. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg, +sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty of +pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up. +Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg +and sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk +is put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: when +this is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured on +from a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TIPSY CAKE. + +1487. INGREDIENTS.--1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake, sufficient sweet +wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. of sweet +almonds, 1 pint of rich custard. + +[Illustration: TIPSY CAKE.] + +_Mode_.--Procure a cake that is three or four days old,--either sponge, +Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom +of the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small hole +in the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or +sherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely. +When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips, +stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made by +recipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. The +cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over +them, the same as for trifles. + +_Time_.--About 2 hours to soak the cake. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + ALMOND.--The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than + Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and + Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the + south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the + fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the + beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms + it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the + same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a + delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and + becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing + the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin. + It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August. + There are two sorts of almonds,--sweet and bitter; but they are + considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the + qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not + distinguishable by their appearance. + +AN EASY WAY OF MAKING A TIPSY CAKE. + +1488. INGREDIENTS.--12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. of +jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423. + +_Mode_.--Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this account +they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deep +glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pour +round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating the +top with cut preserved fruit. + +_Time_.--2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE A TRIFLE. + +1489. INGREDIENTS.--For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of pounded +sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For +the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6 +small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen +ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of +raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6 +tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +[Illustration: TRIFLE.] + +_Mode_.--The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the +day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is +much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl +the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a +stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these +ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer +as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the +whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in +a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons, +and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of +sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should +this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little +more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated +lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer +of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423, +using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a +little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day +previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but +heap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as +possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly, +crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are +sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now +considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.) + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +VANILLA CREAM. + +1490. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, +1 oz. of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla. + +[Illustration: VANILLA-CREAM MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot over +a slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually the +sweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put the +mixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water. +Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture +thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Take +it off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previously +dissolved in about 1/4 pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes; +pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and +turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of +vanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is +well extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for +the above proportion of ingredients. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture. + +_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical + herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. + The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species + of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and + flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The + capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The + essence is the form in which it is used generally and most + conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is + in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections + generally. + +VICTORIA SANDWICHES. + +1491. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and +flour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or +marmalade. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded +sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which +should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well +beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the +batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, +spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it +the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then +cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish, +and serve. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c. + +1492. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar, +1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of 1/2 +lemon, the white of 1 egg. + +[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF.] + +_Mode_.--Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar until +quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put the +cream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip +it to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer, +and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made the +day before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The cream +should be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it is +obtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, and +garnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces of +bright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to the +supper-table. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour to whip the cream. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 dish or 1 trifle. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. + +1493. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half that +quantity of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3 +oz. of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489. + +_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into +glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in +the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by +whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in the +glasses, without the whipped cream at the top. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 8 or 9 glasses. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +THE CURE'S OMELET. + +"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste," +"that for twenty years Madame Recamier was the most beautiful woman in +Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and +took a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the +Cure of ---- respecting the working of an institution, she went to his +house at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at +finding him already at his dinner-table. + +"Madame Recamier wished to retire, but the Cure would not hear of it. A +neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a +crystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heaters +of boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in +attendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury. +The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table a +salmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad. + +"'My dinner will tell you,' said the worthy Cure, with a smile, 'that it +is fast-day, according to our Church's regulations.' Madame Recamier and +her host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a +skilful hand, the countenance of the Cure the while showing +satisfaction. + +"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick, +and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth. + +"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it, +pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it; +and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it +made her mouth water. + +"'It is an _omelette au thon_' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said +the Cure, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame +Recamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.' + +"'It surprises me not at all,' returned the beauty; 'never has so +enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.' + +"'My cook understands them well, I think.' + +"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful.'" + +Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place +confidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theory +that it makes people younger. + +Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three +apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little round +table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so +justly famous. + +"'I never,' said the Cure, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to my +guests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should +please Providence to grant me that.' + +"Finally, the charming Madame Recamier took her leave, and told all her +friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of." + +And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealed +treasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity +the details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which +he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable. + +Here follows the recipe:-- + +OMELETTE AU THON. + +1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp; [Footnote: An American +writer says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c., +in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet +conscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success.] bleach them, by +putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take a +piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small +shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to +mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient +quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted! +This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of +butter, _a discretion_, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a +long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a +lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher +the better); throw up the saute of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to +mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner, +endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully +on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be +reserved for recherche dejeuners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet +who know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will work +wonders. + +_Note_.--The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (saute) without +allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent +them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the +centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a +spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china +will extract all the heat from the omelet. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXX. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ICES, AND DESSERT +DISHES. + + +PRESERVES. + +1495. From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from their +not passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies, the +mode of preserving them is somewhat different, although the general +principles are the same. All the means of preservation are put in +practice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables, +according to the nature of the species, the climate, the uses to which +they are applied, &c. Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, +&c.; others are preserved by means of sugar, such as many fruits whose +delicate juices would be lost by drying; some are preserved by means of +vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles; a few also by +salting, as French beans; while others are preserved in spirits. We +have, however, in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving +fruits. Fruit is a most important item in the economy of health; the +epicurean can scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it; +therefore, as it is so invaluable, when we cannot have it fresh, we must +have it preserved. It has long been a desideratum to preserve fruits by +some cheap method, yet by such as would keep them fit for the various +culinary purposes, as making tarts and other similar dishes. The expense +of preserving them with sugar is a serious objection; for, except the +sugar is used in considerable quantities, the success is very uncertain. +Sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable in +many fruits: these which are preserved in this manner are chiefly +intended for the dessert. Fruits intended for preservation should be +gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them, +if possible; they will then have their fullest flavour, and keep in good +condition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can +be used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a +refrigerator. In an icehouse it will remain fresh and plump for several +days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed, and +be of no service for preserves. + +1496. Having secured the first and most important contribution to the +manufacture of preserves,--the fruit, the next consideration is the +preparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended; and this +requires much care. In the confectioner's art there is a great nicety in +proportioning the degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly to +each particular case; and they know this by signs, and express it by +certain technical terms. But to distinguish these properly requires very +great attention and considerable experience. The principal thing to be +acquainted with is the fact, that, in proportion as the syrup is longer +boiled, its water will become evaporated, and its consistency will be +thicker. Great care must be taken in the management of the fire, that +the syrup does not boil over, and that the boiling is not carried to +such an extent as to burn the sugar. + +1497. The first degree of consistency is called _the thread_, which is +subdivided into the little and great thread. If you dip the finger into +the syrup and apply it to the thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, on +separating the finger and thumb, afford a thread, which shortly breaks: +this is the little thread. If the thread, from the greater tenacity, +and, consequently, greater strength of the syrup, admits of a greater +extension of the finger and thumb, it is called the great thread. There +are half a dozen other terms and experiments for testing the various +thickness of the boiling sugar towards the consistency called _caramel_; +but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner. A solution +of sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar (the +best sugar is the most economical for preserves) in one of water, and +boiling this a little, affords a syrup of the right degree of strength, +and which neither ferments nor crystallizes. This appears to be the +degree called _smooth_ by the confectioners, and is proper to be used +for the purposes of preserves. The syrup employed should sometimes be +clarified, which is done in the following manner:--Dissolve 2 lbs. of +loaf sugar in a pint of water; add to this solution the white of an egg, +and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan upon the fire with the +solution; stir it with a wooden spatula, and, when it begins to swell +and boil up, throw in some cold water or a little oil, to damp the +boiling; for, as it rises suddenly, if it should boil over, it would +take fire, being of a very inflammable nature. Let it boil up again; +then take it off, and remove carefully the scum that has risen. Boil the +solution again, throw in a little more cold water, remove the scum, and +so on for three or four times successively; then strain it. It is +considered to be sufficiently boiled when some taken up in a spoon pours +out like oil. + +1498. Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation, +and is, in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous +stage of that process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be +sufficient to constitute a very strong syrup: hence, syrups are used to +preserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they +would undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use, honey was +employed to preserve many vegetable productions, though this substance +has now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane. + +1499. The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are, +apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, +and pears. As an example, take some apricots not too ripe, make a small +slit at the stem end, and push out the stone; simmer them in water till +they are softened and about half done, and afterwards throw them into +cold water. When they have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put the +apricots into the pie-serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them; +let them boil up three or four times, and then skim them; remove them +from the fire, pour them into an earthen pan, and let them cool till +next day. Boil them up three days successively, skimming each time, and +they will then be finished and in a state fit to be put into pots for +use. After each bailing, it is proper to examine into the state of the +syrup when cold; if too thin, it will bear additional boiling; if too +thick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard. The +reason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into an +earthen pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper, of +which the preserving-pans are usually made. From this example the +process of preserving fruits by syrup will be easily comprehended. The +first object is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water, +in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may penetrate through +its substance. + +1500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose much of their +peculiar and delicate flavour, as, for instance, pine-apples; and this +inconvenience may, in some instances, be remedied by preserving them +without heat. Cut the fruit in slices about one fifth of an inch thick, +strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a +jar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, and then another +layer of the slices, and so on till the jar is full. Place the jar with +the fruit up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till the +sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, removing the +scum as it rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, +or cork and wax it. + +1501. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be +converted into dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and +then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a +quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the +fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They should +be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six or eight +hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are +turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawers +or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in +bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavour. In this way it +is, also, that orange and lemon chips are preserved. + +1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are of the same nature, and are +now in very general request. They are prepared without difficulty, by +attending to a very few directions; they are somewhat expensive, but may +be kept without spoiling for a considerable time. Marmalades and jams +differ little from each other: they are preserves of a half-liquid +consistency, made by boiling the pulp of fruits, and sometimes part of +the rinds, with sugar. The appellation of marmalade is applied to those +confitures which are composed of the firmer fruits, as pineapples or the +rinds of oranges; whereas jams are made of the more juicy berries, such +as strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, &c. Fruit pastes are +a kind of marmalades, consisting of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated +to a proper consistency, and afterwards boiled with sugar. The mixture +is then poured into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin, and +subsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the state +of a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formed +into any shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams require +the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade; the slightest +degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and if +they are not boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. That they may +keep, it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar. + +1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-pan +is used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unless +the jam is made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the pan +is placed close on to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, and +the colour and flavour be consequently spoiled. + +1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with +sugar, concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid, +upon cooling, assumes the form of a tremulous jelly. + +1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup, +after which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire; +the syrup is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, and +the fruit dipped in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy: +they are then to be put into boxes, and kept dry. + +1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform +mass with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtues +and properties of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits, +unaltered, and as near as possible to what they were when fresh +gathered, and to give them an agreeable taste. + +1507. The last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation of +fruit, is the _compote,_ a confiture made at the moment of need, and +with much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They are +most wholesome things, suitable to most stomachs which cannot +accommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar: they +are the happy medium, and far better than ordinary stewed fruit. + + +CONFECTIONARY. + +1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all the +various preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under that +head; for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, which, +when boiled with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as +for sweetmeats, were called _confections_, from the Latin word +_conficere_, 'to make up;' but the term confectionary embraces a very +large class indeed of sweet food, many kinds of which should not be +attempted in the ordinary cuisine. The thousand and one ornamental +dishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be purchased from the +confectioner: they cannot profitably be made at home. Apart from these, +cakes, biscuits, and tarts, &c., the class of sweetmeats called +confections may be thus classified:--1. Liquid confects, or fruits +either whole or in pieces, preserved by being immersed in a fluid +transparent syrup; as the liquid confects of apricots, green citrons, +and many foreign fruits. 2. Dry confects are those which, after having +been boiled in the syrup, are taken out and put to dry in an oven, as +citron and orange-peel, &c. 3. Marmalade, jams, and pastes, a kind of +soft compounds made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable substances, +beat up with sugar or honey; such as oranges, apricots, pears, &c. 4. +Jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with sugar to a pretty thick +consistency, so as, upon cooling, to form a trembling jelly; as currant, +gooseberry, apple jelly, &c. 5. Conserves are a kind of dry confects, +made by beating up flowers, fruits, &c., with sugar, not dissolved. 6. +Candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been boiled in +the syrup. + + +DESSERT DISHES. + +1509. With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold the +same relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients,--the +Romans more especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of +different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes, +as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which the +guests were satiated. However, as late as the reigns of our two last +Georges, fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts. The +dessert certainly repays, in its general effect, the expenditure upon it +of much pains; and it may be said, that if there be any poetry at all in +meals, or the process of feeding, there is poetry in the dessert, the +materials for which should be selected with taste, and, of course, must +depend, in a great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes, +peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, +almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c., +all kinds of dried fruits, and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and +biscuits, make up the dessert, together with the most costly and +_recherche_ wines. The shape of the dishes varies at different periods, +the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes on +stems. The patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion; +some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern and colour; others, +elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The beauty of +the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance the +splendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert on table, +now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down the +middle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately; the fresh fruits +being arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c., on +small round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especial +attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with +nicely-arranged foliage is very charming. The garnish _par excellence_ +for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops producing a +marvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense +of coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, +strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect; and for winter +desserts, the bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, the +expense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paper +and composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price. +Mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish. +This mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of the +fruit: for instance, a pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded with +large plums of various sorts and colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheeked +apples, all arranged with a due regard to colour, have a very good +effect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes, +hanging from the border of the dish in a _neglige_ sort of manner, with +a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples. A +dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and +preserved fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased at +a less cost than they can be manufactured at home. They are preserved +abroad in most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from the +facilities of travel, we have become so familiar with the tables of the +French, chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts. + + +ICES. + +510. Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary to say, of congealed +cream or water, combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouring +ingredients, or more generally with the juices of fruits. At desserts, +or at some evening parties, ices are scarcely to be dispensed with. The +principal utensils required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs, +freezing-pots, spaddles, and a cellaret. The tub must be large enough to +contain about a bushel of ice, pounded small, when brought out of the +ice-house, and mixed very carefully with either _salt, nitre,_ or +_soda._ The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. If it be of tin, as is +sometimes the case, the congelation goes on too rapidly in it for the +thorough intermingling of its contents, on which the excellence of the +ice greatly depends. The spaddle is generally made of copper, kept +bright and clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in which ices are kept +for a short time from dissolving. The method to be pursued in the +freezing process must be attended to. When the ice-tub is prepared with +fresh-pounded ice and salt, the freezing-pot is put into it up to its +cover. The articles to be congealed are then poured into it and covered +over; but to prevent the ingredients from separating and the heaviest of +them from falling to the bottom of the mould, it is requisite to turn +the freezing-pot round and round by the handle, so as to keep its +contents moving until the congelation commences. As soon as this is +perceived (the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for the +purpose of noticing when freezing takes place), the cover is immediately +closed over it, ice is put upon it, and it is left in this state till it +is served. The use of the spaddle is to stir up and remove from the +sides of the freezing pot the cream, which in the shaking may have +washed against it, and by stirring it in with the rest, to prevent waste +of it occurring. Any negligence in stirring the contents of the +freezing-pot before congelation takes place, will destroy the whole: +either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficiently +sweetened, or lumps are formed, which disfigure and discolour it. + +1511. The aged, the delicate, and children should abstain from ices or +iced beverages; even the strong and healthy should partake of them in +moderation. They should be taken immediately after the repast, or some +hours after, because the taking these substances _during_ the process of +digestion is apt to provoke indisposition. It is necessary, then, that +this function should have scarcely commenced, or that it should be +completely finished, before partaking of ices. It is also necessary to +abstain from them when persons are very warm, or immediately after +taking violent exercise, as in some cases they have produced illnesses +which have ended fatally. + +[Do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices, +which all the fair sex are passionately fond of?--To Catherine de' +Medici. Will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by the +instigator of St. Bartholomew ?] + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + + +TO MAKE SYRUP FOR COMPOTES, &c. + +1512. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1-1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, carefully +removing the scum as it rises: the syrup is then ready for the fruit. +The articles boiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time, +it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately. A +larger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + + +TO CLARIFY SUGAR OR SYRUP. + +1513. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water and +1/2 the white of an egg. + +_Mode_.--Put the sugar, water, and the white of the egg, which should, +be well beaten, into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan; and do not put +it on the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Then place it on the fire, +and when it boils, throw in a teacupful of cold water, and do not stir +the sugar after this is added. Bring it to the boiling-point again, and +then place the pan by the side of the fire, for the preparation to +settle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready for use. The +scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from it may be +boiled up again: this must also be well skimmed. + +_Time_.--20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve; 5 minutes to boil. + +_Note_.--The above two recipes are those used in the preparation of +dishes usually made at home. There are many degrees of boiling sugar, +which process requires great care, attention, and experience. Caramel +sugar, which makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats, is difficult to +prepare, and is best left to an experienced confectioner. We give the +recipe, for those of our readers who care to attempt the operation. + + +TO BOIL SUGAR TO CARAMEL. + +1514. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of lump sugar allow 1 gill of spring +water. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a clear +fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep it boiling +until the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold +water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree; then +squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and let it remain an instant on the +fire. Set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is then +ready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented +with this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine +threads or network. A dish of light pastry, tastefully arranged, looks +very prettily with this sugar spun lightly over it. The sugar must be +carefully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless the cook +is very experienced and thoroughly understands her business, it is +scarcely worth while to attempt to make this elaborate ornament, as it +may be purchased quite as economically at a confectioner's, if the +failures in the preparation are taken into consideration. + + +COMPOTE OF APPLES. + +_(Soyer's Recipe,--a Dessert Dish.)_ + +1515. INGREDIENTS.--6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of lump sugar, 1/2 +pint of water. + +[Illustration: COMPOTE OF APPLES.] + +_Mode_.--Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them, cut them in +halves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with a little lemon. +Put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan, and let them +boil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay in the apples with the +rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice of the same. Let the apples +simmer till tender; then take them out very carefully, drain them on a +sieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes. +When both are cold, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour over +the syrup, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron. +Smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner: they should not be +divided in half, but peeled and the cores pushed out with a +vegetable-cutter. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together; from 15 to 25 +minutes to simmer the apples. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. + + +APPLE GINGER. + +(_A Dessert Dish_.) + +1516 INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of any kind of hard apples, 2 lbs. of loaf +sugar, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 oz. of tincture of ginger. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup, adding +the ginger when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut the apples into pieces; +dip them in cold water to preserve the colour, and boil them in the +syrup until transparent; but be careful not to let them break. Put the +pieces of apple into jars, pour over the syrup, and carefully exclude +the air, by well covering them. It will remain good some time, if kept +in a dry place. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes to boil the syrup; about 1/2 hour to +simmer the apples. + +_Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November. + + +APPLE JAM. + +1517. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit weighed after being pared, +cored, and sliced, allow 3/4 lb. of preserving-sugar, the grated rind of +1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Peel the apples, core and slice them very thin, and be +particular that they are all the same sort. Put them into a jar, stand +this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until quite +tender. Previously to putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it, to +ascertain the proportion of sugar that may be required. Put the apples +into a preserving-pan, crush the sugar to small lumps, and add it, with +the grated lemon-rind and juice, to the apples. Simmer these over the +fire for 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmer +properly; remove the scum as it rises, and when the jam is done, put it +into pots for use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and to +exclude the air, cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white of +an egg, and stretched over the top. This jam will keep good for a long +time. + +_Time_.--About 2 hours to stew in the jar; 1/2 hour to boil after the +jam begins to simmer. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 6s. + +_Sufficient._--7 or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 pots of jam. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November. + + +APPLE JELLY. + +I. + +1518. INGREDIENTS.--To 6 lbs. of apples allow 3 pints of water; to every +quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;--the juice of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and put them into a +jar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven, with +the jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and the +apples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To every quart +of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to small +lumps, and put into a preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these together +for rather more than 1/2 hour, remove the scum as it rises, add the +lemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots for use. +This preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and may be +turned out for dessert. + +_Time_.--The apples to be put in the oven over-night, and left till +morning; rather more than 1/2 hour to boil the jelly. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly. + +_Seasonable_,--This should be made in September, October, or November. + + +II. + +1519. INGREDIENTS.--Apples, water: to every pint of syrup allow 3/4 lb. +of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pare and cut the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and put +them in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Let +them boil for an hour; then drain the syrup from them through a hair +sieve or jelly-bag, and measure the juice; to every pint allow 3/4 lb. +of loaf sugar, and boil these together for 3/4 hour, removing every +particle of scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly well stirred, that +it may not burn. A little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples, and +a small quantity of strained lemon-juice may be put in the jelly just +before it is done, when the flavour is liked. This jelly may be +ornamented with preserved greengages, or any other preserved fruit, and +will turn out very prettily for dessert. It should be stored away in +small pots. + +_Time_.--1 hour to boil the fruit and water; 3/4 hour to boil the juice +with the sugar. + +_Average cost_, for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in +proportion, 3s. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September, October, or November. + + +TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, in imitation of Ginger. + +1520. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of apples allow 3/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 +oz. of the best white ginger; 1 oz. of ginger to every 1/2 pint of +water. + +_Mode_.--Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar, +and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain for 2 +days; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in 1/2 pint of boiling water, and +cover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity of ginger +and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in +proportion. Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan with the water +strained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and the +syrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon may +be added just before the apples have finished boiling; and great care +must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into the +jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert. + +_Time_.--2 days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c.; 1 +day to infuse the ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples. + +_Average cost_, for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in +proportion, 2s. 3d. + +_Sufficient._--3 lbs. should fill 3 moderate-sized jars. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made in September, October, or November. + + +COMPOTE OF APRICOTS. + +(_An elegant Dish_.) + +1521. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots. + +_Mode_.--Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it is ready, put in +the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very gently until +tender, taking care not to let them break; take them out carefully, +arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over +the apricots, and, when cold, serve. + +_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June and July, with green apricots. + +APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE. + +1522. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of ripe apricots, weighed after being +skinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, +break them in half, and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and to every +lb. allow the same proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very finely +in a mortar, strew it over the apricots, which should be placed on +dishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. Break the stones, blanch the +kernels, and put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan. +Let these simmer very gently until clear; take out the pieces of apricot +singly as they become so, and, as fast as the scum rises, carefully +remove it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour over them the syrup +and kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purest +salad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-paper, cut about +2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg: when dry, it +will be perfectly hard and air-tight. + +_Time_.--12 hours sprinkled with sugar; about 3/4 hour to boil the jam. + +_Average cost_.--When cheap, apricots may be purchased for preserving at +about 1s. 6d. per gallon. + +_Sufficient_,--10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of jam. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September. + + +BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES. + +1523. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries. + +_Mode_.--Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches long +and 1/4 inch wide, and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches. Have +ready some clear syrup, made by recipe No. 1513; put in the barberries, +and simmer them in it for 2 successive days, boiling them for nearly 1/2 +hour each day, and covering them each time with the syrup when cold. +When the fruit looks perfectly clear, it is sufficiently done, and +should be stored away in pots, with the syrup poured over, or the fruit +may be candied. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer each day. + +_Seasonable_ in autumn. + +_Note_.--The berries in their natural state make a very pretty +garnishing for dishes, and may even be used for the same purpose, +preserved as above, and look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes. + + +TO MAKE BARLEY-SUGAR. + +1524. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 +the white of an egg. + +_Mode_.--Put the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan, with the water, and, +when the former is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire, adding the +well-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm, and stir it well together. +When it boils, remove the scum as it rises, and keep it boiling until no +more appears, and the syrup looks perfectly clear; then strain it +through a fine sieve or muslin bag, and put it back into the saucepan. +Boil it again like caramel, until it is brittle, when a little is +dropped in a basin of cold water: it is then sufficiently boiled. Add a +little lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon, and let it stand +for a minute or two. Have ready a marble slab or large dish, rubbed over +with salad-oil; pour on it the sugar, and cut it into strips with a pair +of scissors: these strips should then be twisted, and the barley-sugar +stored away in a very dry place. It may be formed into lozenges or +drops, by dropping the sugar in a very small quantity at a time on to +the oiled slab or dish. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 sticks. + + +CARROT JAM TO IMITATE APRICOT PRESERVE. + +1525. INGREDIENTS.--Carrots; to every lb. of carrot pulp allow 1 lb. of +pounded sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice of 2, 6 +chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Select young carrots; wash and scrape them clean, cut them into +round pieces, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover +them, and let them simmer until perfectly soft; then beat them through a +sieve. Weigh the pulp, and to every lb. allow the above ingredients. Put +the pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and let this boil for 5 +minutes, stirring and skimming all the time. When cold, add the +lemon-rind and juice, almonds and brandy; mix these well with the jam; +then put it into pots, which must be well covered and kept in a dry +place. The brandy may be omitted, but the preserve will then not keep: +with the brandy it will remain good for months. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the carrots; 5 minutes to simmer the +pulp. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. for 1 lb. of pulp, with the other ingredients in +proportion. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 3 pots. + +_Seasonable_ from July to December. + + +TO MAKE CHERRY BRANDY. + +1536. INGREDIENTS.--Morella cherries, good brandy; to every lb. of +cherries allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Have ready some glass bottles, which must be perfectly dry. +Ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered, +and cut off about half of the stalks. Put them into the bottles, with +the above proportion of sugar to every lb. of fruit; strew this in +between the cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly full, pour in +sufficient brandy to reach just below the cork. A few peach or apricot +kernels will add much to their flavour, or a few blanched bitter +almonds. Put corks or bungs into the bottles, tie over them a piece of +bladder, and store away in a dry place. The cherries will be fit to eat +in 2 or 3 months, and will remain good for years. They are liable to +shrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them. + +_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb. + +_Sufficient_.--1 lb. of cherries and about 1/4 pint of brandy for a +quart bottle. _Seasonable_ in August and September. + + +DRIED CHERRIES. + +1527. CHERRIES may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried before +they begin to change colour. They should then be taken out of the oven, +tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. In the winter, they may +be cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Normandy pippins. +Particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot. Another +method of drying cherries is to stone them, and to put them into a +preserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst them. They +should be simmered till the fruit shrivels, when they should be strained +from the juice. The cherries should then be placed in an oven, cool +enough to dry without baking them. About 5 oz. of sugar would be +required for 1 lb. of cherries, and the same syrup may be used again to +do another quantity of fruit. + + +CHERRY JAM. + +1528. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before stoning, allow +1/2 lb. of sugar; to every 6 lbs. of fruit allow 1 pint of red-currant +juice, and to every pint of juice 1 lb. of sugar. + +_Mode_.--Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight of +sugar; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan until +nearly all the juice is dried up; then add the sugar, which should be +crushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing 1 pint to every 6 +lbs. of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. of sugar to every pint of +juice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from 20 +minutes to 1/2 hour; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a few +minutes before it is done, crack some of the stones, and add the +kernels: these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam. + +_Time_.--According to the quality of the cherries, from 3/4 to 1 hour to +boil them; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour with the sugar. + +_Average cost_, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--1 pint of fruit for a lb. pot of jam. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August. + + +TO PRESERVE CHERRIES IN SYRUP. + +(_Very delicious_.) + +1529. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of +white-currant juice. + +_Mode_.--Let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible, +and perfectly ripe; pick off the stalks, and remove the stones, damaging +the fruit as little as you can. Make a syrup with the above proportion +of sugar, by recipe No. 1512; mix the cherries with it, and boil them +for about 15 minutes, carefully skimming them; turn them gently into a +pan, and let them remain till the next day; then drain the cherries on a +sieve, and put the syrup and white-currant juice into the preserving-pan +again. Boil these together until the syrup is somewhat reduced and +rather thick; then put in the cherries, and let them boil for about 5 +minutes; take them off the fire, skim the syrup, put the cherries into +small pots or wide-mouthed bottles; pour the syrup over, and when quite +cold, tie them down carefully, so that the air is quite excluded. + +_Time_.--15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup; 10 minutes to +boil the syrup and currant-juice; 6 minutes to boil the cherries the +second time. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August. + + +BLACK-CURRANT JAM. + +1530. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stripped +from the stalks, allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be very ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip it +from the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, with a gill of water +to each lb. of fruit; boil these together for 10 minutes; then add the +sugar, and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning from the time +when the jam simmers equally all over, or longer, should it not appear +to set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate. Keep stirring it to +prevent it from burning, carefully remove all the scum, and when done, +pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiled +paper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over +on both sides with the white of an egg: this, when cold, forms a hard +stiff cover, and perfectly excludes the air. Great attention must be +paid to the stirring of this jam, as it is very liable to burn, on +account of the thickness of the juice. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the fruit and water; 30 minutes with the +sugar, or longer. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. for a pot capable of holding 1 lb. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 1 dozen pots +of jam, each pot to hold 1 lb. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. + + +BLACK-CURRANT JELLY. + +1531. INGREDIENTS.--Black currants; to every pint of juice allow 1/4 +pint of water, 1 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, which may be done in an +expeditious manner, by holding the bunch in one hand, and passing a +small silver fork down the currants: they will then readily fall from +the stalks. Put them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan of boiling +water, and simmer them until their juice is extracted; then strain them, +and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of sugar and +water; stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar is +dissolved; place the preserving-pan on the fire, and boil the jelly for +about 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time it commences to boil all over, +and carefully remove the scum as it rises. If the jelly becomes firm +when a little is put on a plate, it is done; it should then be put into +_small_ pots, and covered the same as the jam in the preceding recipe. +If the jelly is wanted very clear, the fruit should not be squeezed dry; +but, of course, so much juice will not be obtained. If the fruit is not +much squeezed, it may be converted into a jam for immediate eating, by +boiling it with a little common sugar: this answers very well for a +nursery preserve. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to extract the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the +jelly. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield a pint of +juice. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. + + +RED-CURRANT JAM. + +1532. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. + +[Illustration: JAM-POT.] + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day; weigh it, and then +strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a preserving-pan with +sugar in the above proportion; stir them, and boil them for about 3/4 +hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Put the jam into pots, and, +when cold, cover with oiled papers; over these put a piece of +tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg; press +the paper round the top of the pot, and, when dry, the covering will be +quite hard and air-tight. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam boils all +over. + +_Average cost_, for a lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb, +pots of jam. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. + + +RED-CURRANT JELLY. + +1533. INGREDIENTS.--Red currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. +of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in fine weather; pick it from the +stalks, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling +water over the fire, and let it simmer gently until the juice is well +drawn from the currants; then strain them through a jelly-bag or fine +cloth, and, if the jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze them _too +much_, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through with +the juice, and so make the jelly muddy. Measure the juice, and to each +pint allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; put these into a preserving-pan, set +it over the fire, and keep stirring the jelly until it is done, +carefully removing every particle of scum as it rises, using a wooden or +silver spoon for the purpose, as metal or iron ones would spoil the +colour of the jelly when it has boiled from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, put +a little of the jelly on a plate, and if firm when cool, it is done. +Take it off the fire, pour it into small gallipots, cover each of the +pots with an oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushed +over on both sides with the white of an egg. Label the pots, adding the +year when the jelly was made, and store it away in a dry place. A jam +may be made with the currants, if they are not squeezed too dry, by +adding a few fresh raspberries, and boiling all together, with +sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. As this preserve is not worth +storing away, but is only for immediate eating, a smaller proportion of +sugar than usual will be found enough: it answers very well for +children's puddings, or for a nursery preserve. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to extract the juice; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour +to boil the jelly. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. _Sufficient_.--8 +quarts of currants will make from 10 to 12 pots of jelly. +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. _Note_.--Should the above proportion +of sugar not be found sufficient for some tastes, add an extra 1/4 lb. +to every pint of juice, making altogether 1 lb. + + +WHITE-CURRANT JELLY. + +1534. INGREDIENTS.--White currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. +of good loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pick the currants from the stalks, and put them into a jar; +place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the +juice is well drawn from the fruit, which will be in from 3/4 to 1 hour. +Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag; do not +squeeze them too much, or the jelly will not be clear, and put the juice +into a very clean preserving-pan, with the sugar. Let this simmer gently +over a clear fire until it is firm, and keep stirring and skimming until +it is done; then pour it into small pots, cover them, and store away in +a dry place. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to draw the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the jelly. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. + +_Sufficient._--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of +juice. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August. + + +BAKED DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE. + +1535. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 6 oz. of pounded sugar; +melted mutton suet. + +_Mode_.--Choose sound fruit, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weigh +it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of pounded sugar. Put +the fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it; +cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bake +the fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of the +fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour over +this melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops of the +jars with thick brown paper, well tied down. Keep the jars in a cool dry +place, and the fruit will remain good till the following Christmas, but +not much longer. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons, in a very cool oven. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October. + + +DAMSON CHEESE. + +1536. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons; to every lb. of fruit pulp allow 1/2 lb. of +loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into a +preserving-pan; simmer them over the fire until they are soft, +occasionally stirring them; then beat them through a coarse sieve, and +put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the above +proportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir the sugar +well in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours. Skim well; then boil +the preserve quickly for 1/2 hour, or until it looks firm and hard in +the spoon; put it quickly into shallow pots, or very tiny earthenware +moulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the jars with +tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. A few +of the stones may be cracked, and the kernels boiled with the damsons, +which very much improves the flavour of the cheese. + +_Time_.--1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to simmer +them slowly, 1/2 hour quickly. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/3 lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--1 pint of damsons to make a _very small_ pot of cheese. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October. + + +COMPOTE OF DAMSONS. + +1537. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup No. 1512. + +_Mode_.--Procure sound ripe damsons; pick the stalks from them, and put +them into boiling syrup, made by recipe No. 1512. Simmer them gently +until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to break; take them +up, boil the syrup for 5 minutes; pour it over the damsons, and serve. +This should be sent to table in a glass dish. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil the +syrup. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October. + + +DAMSON JAM. + +1538. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons; to every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in dry weather; pick it over, and +reject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them, and +to every lb. allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a +preserving-pan; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved, +and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for about an +hour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike: it +must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn and +stick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeable +flavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears to set, it is +done. Then take it off the fire, put into pots, cover it down, when +quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, the same as in recipe No. 1530, +and store it away in a dry place. + +_Time_.--1 hour after the jam simmers all over. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--1-1/2 pint of damsons for a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October. + + +A VERY NICE PRESERVE OF DAMSONS. + +1539. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of damsons allow 1/2 lb. of loaf +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Put the damsons (which should be picked from the stalks and +quite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar sprinkled +amongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar closely down, set it +in a saucepan of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, and simmer +gently until the damsons are soft, without being broken. Let them stand +till cold; then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, strain it +through a jelly-bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover with +oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides +with the white of an egg, and store away in a dry cool place. + +_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils; 1/4 +hour to boil the juice. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September or October. + + +TO PRESERVE DAMSONS, OR ANY KIND OF PLUMS. + +(_Useful in Winter_.) + +1540. INGREDIENTS.--Damsons or plums; boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave +out all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiling water on +the plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit; cut a piece of +paper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet; +cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place. When +used, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and the jelly at +the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October. + + +COMPOTE OF GREEN FIGS. + +[Illustration: COMPOTE OF FIGS.] + +1541. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1-1/2 pint of green figs, +the rind of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, boiling with it the +lemon-rind, and carefully remove all the scum as it rises. Put in the +figs, and simmer them very slowly until tender; dish them on a glass +dish; reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for 5 minutes; take out the +lemon-peel, pour the syrup over the figs, and the compote, when cold, +will be ready for table. A little port wine, or lemon-juice, added just +before the figs are done, will be found an improvement. + +_Time_.--2 to 3 hours to stew the figs. + +_Average cost_, figs, 2s. to 3s. per dozen. + +_Seasonable_ in August and September. + + +TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT. + +(_Very useful in Winter_.) + +I. + +1542. INGREDIENTS.--Fresh fruits, such as currants, raspberries, +cherries, gooseberries, plums of all kinds, damsons, &c.; wide-mouthed +glass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, and gathered in +dry weather. Pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking the +skin, and reject any that is at all blemished: if gathered in the damp, +or if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will mould. Have ready some +_perfectly dry_ glass bottles, and some nice new soft corks or bungs; +burn a match in each bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly place the +fruit in to be preserved; gently cork the bottles, and put them into a +very cool oven, where let them remain until the fruit has shrunk away a +fourth part. Then take the bottles out; _do not open them,_ but +immediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and cover them +with melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the fruit will remain good +for months; and on this principally depends the success of the +preparation; for if stored away in a place that is in the least damp, +the fruit will soon spoil. + +_Time_.--From 5 to 6 hours in a very slow oven. + + +II. + +1543. INGREDIENTS.--Any kind of fresh fruit, such as currants, cherries, +gooseberries, all kinds of plums, &c.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new +corks to fit them tightly. + +_Mode_.--The fruit must be full-grown, not too ripe, and gathered on a +fine day. Let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles, which +must be clean and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of the bottles pieces +of bladder; stand the bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler, with +cold water to reach to their necks; kindle a fire under, let the water +boil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, prick them. As soon as +the water boils, extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain where +they are, to become cold. The next day remove the bladders, and strew +over the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar; fit the bottles with +corks, and let each cork lie close at hand to its own bottle. Hold for a +few moments, in the neck of the bottle, two or three lighted matches, +and when they have filled the bottle neck with gas, and before they go +out, remove them very quickly; instantly cork the bottle closely, and +dip it in bottle cement. + +_Time_.--Altogether about 8 hours. + + +TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT WITH SUGAR. + +(_Very useful in Winter_.) + +1544. INGREDIENTS.--Any kind of fresh fruit; to each quart bottle allow +1/4 lb. of pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather. Pick it carefully, +and drop it into _clean_ and _very dry_ quart glass bottles, sprinkling +over it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart. Put the +corks in the bottles, and place them in a copper of cold water up to +their necks, with small hay-wisps round them, to prevent the bottles +from knocking together. Light the fire under, bring the water gradually +to boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is +reduced nearly one third. Extinguish the fire, _and let the bottles +remain in the water until it is perfectly cold;_ then take them out, +make the corks secure, and cover them with melted resin or wax. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour from the time the water commences to boil. + + +TO FROST HOLLY-LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating Dessert and Supper +Dishes. + +1545.--INGREDIENTS.--Sprigs of holly, oiled butter, coarsely-powdered +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Procure some nice sprigs of holly; pick the leaves from the +stalks, and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture; then +place them on a dish near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but not too +near to shrivel the leaves; dip them into oiled butter, sprinkle over +them some coarsely-powdered sugar, and dry them before the fire. They +should be kept in a dry place, as the least damp would spoil their +appearance. + +_Time_.--About 10 minutes to dry before the fire. + +_Seasonable_.--These may be made at any time; but are more suitable for +winter garnishes, when fresh flowers are not easily obtained. + + +COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES. + +1546. INGREDIENTS.--Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; to 1 pint of syrup +allow nearly a quart of gooseberries. + +_Mode_.--Top and tail the gooseberries, which should not be very ripe, +and pour over them some boiling water; then take them out, and plunge +them into cold water, with which has been mixed a tablespoonful of +vinegar, which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour. Make a pint +of syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it boils, drain the gooseberries +and put them in; simmer them gently until the fruit is nicely pulped and +tender, without being broken; then dish the gooseberries on a glass +dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over the gooseberries, and +serve cold. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup; 3 +minutes to reduce the syrup. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_,--a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June. + + +GOOSEBERRY JAM. + +I. + +1547. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; +currant-juice. + +_Mode_.--Select red hairy gooseberries; have them gathered in dry +weather, when quite ripe, without being too soft. Weigh them; with a +pair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. of +fruit have ready 1/2 pint of red-currant juice, drawn as for jelly. Put +the gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan; let them boil +tolerably quickly, keeping them well stirred; when they begin to break, +add to them the sugar, and keep simmering until the jam becomes firm, +carefully skimming: and stirring it, that it does not burn at the +bottom. It should be boiled rather a long time, or it will not keep. Put +it into pots (not too large); let it get perfectly cold; then cover the +pots down with oiled and egged papers, as directed for red-currant jelly +No. 1533. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice; +from 1/2 to 3/4 hour with the sugar. + +_Average cost_, per lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July. + + +II. + +1548. INGREDIENTS.--To every 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe gooseberries +allow 1 quart of red-currant juice, 5 lbs. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, and cut off the tops +and tails. Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the same as for +red-currant jelly No. 1533; put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar, +and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved. Keep it boiling for +about 5 minutes; skim well; then put in the gooseberries, and let them +boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; then turn the whole into an earthen pan, and +let it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam up again until it looks clear; +put it into pots, and when cold, cover with oiled paper, and over the +jars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an +egg, and store away in a dry place. Care must be taken, in making this, +to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed, to prevent it burning at +the bottom of the pan, and to have it very clear. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the currant-juice and sugar after the latter +is dissolved; from 1/2 to 3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries the first +time, 1/4 hour the second time of boiling. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July. + + +WHITE OR GREEN GOOSEBERRY JAM. + +1549. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of fruit and sugar. + +_Mode_.--Select the gooseberries not very ripe, either white or green, +and top and tail them. Boil the sugar with water (allowing 1/2 pint to +every lb.) for about 1/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises; +then put in the gooseberries, and simmer gently till clear and firm: try +a little of the jam on a plate; if it jellies when cold, it is done, and +should then be poured into pots. When cold, cover with oiled paper, and +tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten white of an +egg, and store away in a dry place. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the sugar and water, 3/4 hour the jam. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in June. + + +GOOSEBERRY JELLY. + +1550. INGREDIENTS.--Gooseberries; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. +of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries, after cutting off the tops and tails, +into a preserving-pan, and stir them over the fire until they are quite +soft; then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice allow +3/4 lb. of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly 3/4 hour, +stirring and skimming all the time; and if the jelly appears firm when a +little of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, and should then be +taken up and put into small pots. Cover the pots with oiled and egged +papers, the same as for currant jelly No. 1533, and store away in a dry +place. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar; 3/4 hour +to boil the juice. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ in July. + + +COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES. + +1551. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1512, 1 quart of +greengages. + +_Mode_.--Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, skim it well, and put in the +greengages when the syrup is boiling, having previously removed the +stalks and stones from the fruit. Boil gently for 1/4 hour, or until the +fruit is tender; but take care not to let it break, as the appearance of +the dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp. Take the +greengages carefully out, place them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for +another 5 minutes, let it cool a little, pour over the fruit, and, when +cold, it will be ready for use. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes the syrup. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. + + +GREENGAGE JAM. + +1552. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stoned, +allow 3/4 lb. of lump sugar. + +_Mode_.--Divide the greengages, take out the stones, and put them into a +preserving-pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar, and keep +stirring it over a gentle fire until it is melted. Remove all the scum +as it rises, and, just before the jam is done, boil it rapidly for 5 +minutes. To ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little on a +plate, and if the syrup thickens and appears firm, it is done. Have +ready half the kernels blanched; put them into the jam, give them one +boil, and pour the preserve into pots. When cold, cover down with oiled +papers, and, over these, tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with +the white of an egg. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour after the sugar is added. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient._--Allow about 1-1/2 pint of fruit for every lb. pot of jam. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September. + + +TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES. + +1553. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1 lb. of fruit, 1/4 pint +of water. + +_Mode_.--For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite +ripe, and part of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejecting +all that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a lined +saucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been previously +boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes, +remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. The next day, boil up +the syrup and put in the fruit again, and let it simmer for 3 minutes, +and drain the syrup away. Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, and the +last time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair sieve, and put +them in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paper +between each layer, in a place free from damp. + +_Time_.--10 minutes the first time of boiling. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September. + + +PRESERVED GREENGAGES IN SYRUP. + +1554. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar 1/4 +pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes; divide +the greengages, take out the stones, put the fruit into the syrup, and +let it simmer gently until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, put it +into a large pan, and, the next day, boil it up again for about 10 +minutes with the kernels from the stones, which should be blanched. Put +the fruit carefully into jars, pour over it the syrup, and, when cold, +cover down, so that the air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be well +skimmed both the first and second day of boiling, otherwise it will not +be clear. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the syrup; 1/4 hour to simmer the fruit the +first day, 10 minutes the second day. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient._--Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in August or September. + + +TO MAKE FRUIT ICE-CREAMS. + +1555. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of cream; +sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it off the stalks, and put +it into a large earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breaking +it until it is well mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub it +through a hair sieve. Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar; whip the +cream for a few minutes, add it to the fruit, and whisk the whole again +for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing-pot, and freeze +in the same manner as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, taking care to +stir the cream, &c., two or three times, and to remove it from the sides +of the vessel, that the mixture may be equally frozen and smooth. Ices +are usually served in glasses, but if moulded, as they sometimes are for +dessert, must have a small quantity of melted isinglass added to them, +to enable them to keep their shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and +all fruit ice-creams, are made in the same manner. A little pounded +sugar sprinkled over the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract +the juice. In winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam +may be substituted for it: it should be melted and worked through a +sieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if the colour should +not be good, a little prepared cochineal or beetroot may be put in to +improve its appearance. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 4d. each ice. + +_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August. + + +TO MAKE FRUIT-WATER ICES. + +1556. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of syrup +made by recipe No. 1513. + +[Illustration: DISH OF ICES.] + +_Mode_.--Select nice ripe fruit; pick off the stalks, and put it into a +large earthen pan, with a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir it +about with a wooden spoon until it is well broken, then rub it through a +hair sieve. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of the +egg; let it cool, add the fruit-juice, mix well together, and put the +mixture into the freezing-pot. Proceed as directed for Ice Puddings, No. +1290, and when the mixture is equally frozen, put it into small glasses. +Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and other fresh-fruit-water ices, are +made in the same manner. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. + +_Average cost_, 3d. to 4d. each. + +_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August. + + +LEMON-WATER ICE. + +1557. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of syrup, made by recipe No. 1513, +allow 1/3 pint of lemon-juice; the rind of 4 lemons. + +_Mode_.--Rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons, and with it make the +syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of egg. Strain the +lemon-juice, add it to the other ingredients, stir well, and put the +mixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as directed for Ice Pudding, No. +1290, and, when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, put it +into ice-glasses. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. _Average cost_, 3d. to 4d. +each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ICED CURRANTS, for Dessert. + +1558. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants, +pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Select very fine bunches of red or white currants, and well +beat the whites of the eggs. Mix these with the water; then take the +currants, a bunch at a time, and dip them in; let them drain for a +minute or two, and roll them in very fine pounded sugar. Lay them to dry +on paper, when the sugar will crystallize round each currant, and have a +very pretty effect. All fresh fruit may be prepared in the same manner; +and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner, and arranged on one +dish, looks very well for a summer dessert. + +_Time_.--1/4 day to dry the fruit. + +_Average cost_, 8d. for a pint of iced currants. _Seasonable_ in summer. + + +MELONS. + +1559.--This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, and should +be sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancy +dictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round the +melon, has a pretty effect, the colour the former contrasting nicely +with the melon. Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; and +the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices. In +America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt. + +_Average cost_,--English, in full season, 3s. 6d. to 5s. each; when +scarce, 10s. to 15s.; _seasonable_, June to August. French, 2s. to 3s. +6d. each; _seasonable_, June and July. Dutch, 9d. to 2s. each; +_seasonable_, July and August. + + MELON.--The melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool, + and high-flavoured. With us, it is used only at the dessert, and + is generally eaten with sugar, ginger, or pepper; but, in + France, it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled + meats. It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in + abundance on the sandy plains of Jeypoor. It was brought + originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been + common in England in the time of Edward III., though it is + supposed that it was lost again, as well as the cucumber, during + the wars of York and Lancaster. The best kind, called the + _Cantaloupe_, from the name of a place near Rome where it was + first cultivated in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it + grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a + crown. + +PRESERVED MULBERRIES. + +1560. INGREDIENTS.--To 2 lbs. of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow 2-1/2 +lbs. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer it +gently until the juice is well drawn. Strain it through a bag, measure +it, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit. Put +the sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the juice, boil it +up, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe, but +not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in the syrup till +warm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently; when half done, +turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them remain till the +next day; then boil them as before, and when the syrup is thick, and +becomes firm when cold, put the preserve into pots. In making this, care +should be taken not to break the mulberries: this may be avoided by very +gentle stirring, and by simmering the fruit very slowly. + +_Time_.--3/4 hour to extract the juice; + +1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second +time. + +_Seasonable_ in August and September. + +[Illustration: MULBERRY.] + +MULBERRY.--Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour, +and their sub-acid nature. They are considered as cooling, laxative, and +generally wholesome. This fruit was very highly esteemed by the Romans, +who appear to have preferred it to every other. The mulberry-tree is +stated to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being first +planted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive. The +planting of them was much encouraged by King James I. about 1605; and +considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a +large scale for the purpose of making silk; but these endeavours have +always failed, the climate being scarcely warm enough. + + +TO PRESERVE MORELLO CHERRIES. + +1561. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of cherries allow 1-1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 +gill of water. + +_Mode_.--Select ripe cherries; pick off the stalks, and reject all that +have any blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; put +in the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum as it +rises. Then turn the fruit, &c. into a pan, and let it remain until the +next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and, if +necessary, skim well. Put the cherries into small pots; pour over them +the syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers, and the tops of +the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of +an egg, and keep in a dry place. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 25 minutes to boil. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August. + + +THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME.--The Cherry-tree was introduced into Rome by +Lucullus about seventy years before the Christian era; but the capital +of the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as it +deserved; for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in Italy, that +more than a century after its introduction it was far from being +generally cultivated. The Romans distinguished three principal species +of cherries--the _Apronian_, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate +pulp; the _Lutatian_, very black and sweet; the _Caecilian_, round and +stubby, and much esteemed. The cherry embellished the third course in +Rome and the second at Athens. + + +PRESERVED NECTARINES. + +1562. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water; +nectarines. + +_Mode_.--Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make a +strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in the +nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar. +Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan. +The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines, +put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it over +the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The syrup and +preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the +fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the +syrup. + +_Seasonable_ in August and September, but cheapest in September. + + +STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS. + +1563. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2 +teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 +lb. of moist sugar, 1 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water with +the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand 12 +hours; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon sliced +thinly, and half the moist sugar. Let them boil slowly until the pippins +are half done; then add the remainder of the sugar, and simmer until +they are quite tender. Serve on glass dishes for dessert. + +_Time_.--2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. _Seasonable_.--Suitable +for a winter dish. + + +ICED ORANGES. + +1564. INGREDIENTS.--Oranges; to every lb. of pounded loaf sugar allow +the whites of 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beat +this mixture for 1/4 hour. Skin the oranges, remove as much of the white +pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit; pass a thread +through the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar, and tie them +to a stick. Place this stick across the oven, and let the oranges remain +until dry, when they will have the appearance of balls of ice. They make +a pretty dessert or supper dish. Care must be taken not to have the oven +too fierce, or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour, +which would entirely spoil their appearance. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each. + +_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of sugar to ice 12 oranges. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE.--The first Orange-tree cultivated in +the centre of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It +was called _Le Connetable_ (the Constable), because it had belonged to +the Connetable de Bourbon, and had been confiscated, together with all +property belonging to that prince, after his revolt against his +sovereign. + + +COMPOTE OF ORANGES. + +1565. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges. _Mode_.--Peel +the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide +them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which they +are surrounded. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding the rind of +the orange cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup has been well +skimmed, and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange, and simmer +them for 5 minutes. Take them out carefully with a spoon without +breaking them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup by +boiling it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, pour it over the +oranges, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. + +[Illustration: COMPOTE OF ORANGES.] + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges; +5 minutes to reduce the syrup. + +_Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL.--The Orange known under the name of "Portugal +Orange" comes originally from China. Not more than two centuries ago, +the Portuguese brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied so +prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal. + +ORANGE AND CLOVES.--It appears to have been the custom formerly, in +England, to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full with +cloves. We read in one of Ben Jonson's pieces,--the "Christmas +Masque,"--"He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick in +it." + + +ORANGE MARMALADE. + +I. + +1566. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville oranges; +to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges, +and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges. Peel +them carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and boil the rinds in +water 2 hours, changing the water three times to take off a little of +the bitter taste. Break the pulp into small pieces, take out all the +pips, and cut the boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup with the sugar +and water; boil this well, skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp and +chips. Boil all together from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; pour it into pots, +and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over on +both sides with the white of an egg. The juice and grated rind of 2 +lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the pulp and chips to the +syrup, are a very great improvement to this marmalade. + +_Time_.--2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; 10 minutes to boil the syrup; +20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made in March or April, as Seville oranges +are then in perfection. + +II. + +1567. INGREDIENTS.--Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; to every +lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take it +off in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they +are quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin; +then cut them into chips about 1 inch long, and as thin as possible. +Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it before +cutting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the best +part of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips. +Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until clear; then put in +the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes to +1/2 hour, removing all the scum as it rises. In boiling the syrup, clear +it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it. + +_Time_.--2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to +1/2 hour the marmalade. + +_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are in +perfection. + + +AN EASY WAY OF MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE. + +1568. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of pulp allow 1-1/2 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Choose some fine Seville oranges; put them whole into a stewpan +with sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they become +perfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take off +the rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and to every lb. +allow 1-1/2 of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges were +last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; put in +the pulp, boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut into +strips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which completes +the process. Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover down with +bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of +an egg. + +_Time_.--2 hours to boil the oranges; altogether 1/2 hour to boil the +marmalade. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_--Make this in March or April. + + +ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY. + +1569. INGREDIENTS.--To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville oranges +allow 2 lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of the rind. + +_Mode_.--Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender, and +cut it into strips. Take away the pips from the juice and pulp, and put +it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan; boil all together for +about 1/2 hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency; put +it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders. + +_Time_.--2 hours to boil the rind, 1/2 hour the marmalade. + +_Average cost_, from 7d. to 9d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or April. + + +TO PRESERVE ORANGES. + +1570. INGREDIENTS.--Oranges; to every lb. of juice and pulp allow 2 lbs. +of loaf sugar; to every pint of water 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thin +outside portion of the rind. Make a small incision where the stalk is +taken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, and +preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it. Put the +oranges into cold water; let them stand for 3 days, changing the water +twice; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender, and put +them to drain. Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar and +water, sufficient to cover the oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3 +days; then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp, allow double their +weight of sugar, and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise, +which must all be carefully removed; put in the oranges, boil them for +10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them the syrup, and, when +cold, cover down. They will be fit for use in a week. + +_Time_.--3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days in the syrup; +1/2 hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges. + +_Seasonable_.--This preserve should be made in February or March, when +oranges are plentiful. + + +ORANGE SALAD. + +1571. INGREDIENTS.--6 oranges, 1/4 lb. of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. of +pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Peel 5 of the oranges; divide them into slices without breaking +the pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish. Stone the raisins, mix them +with the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with the oranges. Squeeze the +juice of the other orange over the whole, and the dish is ready for +table. A little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked; +but this ingredient must be added very sparingly. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from November to May. + + +COMPOTE OF PEACHES. + +1572. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches. + +_Mode_.--Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look well +for dessert, answer very nicely for a compote. Divide the peaches, take +out the stones, and pare the fruit; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, put +in the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. Take them out +without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or +3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, it will +be ready for table. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ in August and September. + + PEACH AND NECTARINE.--The peach and nectarine, which are among + the most delicious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of + the same species, produced by cultivation. The former is + characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is + smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees + have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another; and + even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other + none; the trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the + blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought + from Persia, where it grows naturally. At Montreuil, a village + near Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the + cultivation of peaches; and this occupation has maintained the + inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they raise better + peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia, + peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests; but the + fruit is of little value for the table, being employed only in + fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy. On the + east side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields + and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of food. The + young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, from + their agreeable flavour; and a liqueur resembling the fine + noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy + sweetened with sugar and fined with milk: gin may also be + flavoured in the same manner. The kernels of the fruit have the + same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name + from nectar, the particular drink of the gods. Though it is + considered as the same species as the peach, it is not known + which of the varieties come from the other; the nectarine, is by + some considered as the superior fruit. + +PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY. + +1573. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit weighed before being stoned, +allow 1/4 lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather; wipe and weigh it, +and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring the +peaches much. Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded loaf +sugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit. Cover the +jar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, +and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to +boil. Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it; put it into +small jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the air by +covering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both +sides with the white of an egg. Apricots may be done in the same manner, +and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious. + +_Time_.--From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to the +simmering-point. + +_Seasonable_ in August and September. + + +BAKED PEARS. + +1574. INGREDIENTS.--12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole +allspice; to every pint of water allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be very +large, into quarters; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove the +cores. Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting lid; add +to them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of 1/2 lemon, the +cloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole, +with sugar in the above proportion. Cover the jar down closely, put it +into a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be very +careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the colour of the +fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added; but this will not +be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked. + +_Time_.--Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven. + +_Average cost_, 1d. to 2d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ from September to January. + + PEAR.--The pear, like the apple, is indigenous to this country; + but the wild pear is a very unsatisfactory fruit. The best + varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who + cultivated them with care, and probably introduced some of their + best sorts into this island, to which others were added by the + inhabitants of the monasteries. The Dutch and Flemings, as well + as the French, have excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and + most of the late varieties introduced are from France and + Flanders. The pear is a hardy tree, and a longer liver than the + apple: it has been known to exist for centuries. There are now + about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly wholesome + when ripe, the pear is not so when green; but in this state it + is fit for stewing. An agreeable beverage, called perry, is made + from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating + make the best perry. + +PRESERVED PEARS. + +1575. INGREDIENTS.--Jargonelle pears; to every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 +pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Procure some Jargonelle pears, not too ripe; put them into a +stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them till rather +tender, but do not allow them to break; then put them into cold water. +Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim well, put in the +pears, and simmer them gently for 5 minutes. Repeat the simmering for 3 +successive days, taking care not to let the fruit break. The last time +of boiling, the syrup should be made rather richer, and the fruit boiled +for 10 minutes. When the pears are done, drain them from the syrup, and +dry them in the sun, or in a cool oven; or they may be kept in the +syrup, and dried as they are wanted. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup. + +_Average cost_, 1d. to 2d. each. + +_Seasonable_.--Most plentiful in September and October. + + +STEWED PEARS. + +[Illustration: STEWED PEARS.] + +1576. INGREDIENTS.--8 large pears, 5 oz. of loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6 +whole allspice, 1/2 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port wine, a few drops of +prepared cochineal. + +_Mode_.--Pare the pears, halve them, remove the cores, and leave the +stalks on; put them into a _lined_ saucepan with the above ingredients, +and let them simmer very gently until tender, which will be in from 3 to +4 hours, according to the quality of the pears. They should be watched, +and, when done, carefully lifted out on to a glass dish without breaking +them. Boil up the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes; allow it to cool a +little, pour it over the pears, and let them get perfectly cold. To +improve the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may +be added, which rather enhances the beauty of this dish. The fruit must +not be boiled fast, but only simmered, and watched that it be not too +much done. + +_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from September to January. + + THE BON CHRETIEN PEAR.--The valuable variety of pear called _Bon + Chretien_, which comes to our tables in winter, either raw or + cooked, received its name through the following incident:--Louis + XI., king of France, had sent for Saint Francois de Paule from + the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his + health through his intercession. The saint brought with him the + seeds of this pear; and, as he was called at court Le Bon + Chretien, this fruit obtained the name of him to whom France + owed its introduction. + +PINEAPPLE CHIPS. + +1577. INGREDIENTS.--Pineapples; sugar to taste. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strew +over it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or very slow +oven, 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then put the +pieces of pine on tins, and place them in a quick oven for 10 minutes. +Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper between each +layer. + +_Time_.--8 to 10 days. + +_Seasonable_.--Foreign pines, in July and August. + + +PRESERVED PINEAPPLE. + +1578. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed after being pared, +allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar; 1/4 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--The pines for making this preserve should be perfectly sound +but ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the fruit shrinks very +much in the boiling. Pare off the rind carefully, that none of the pine +be wasted; and, in doing so, notch it in and out, as the edge cannot be +smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a portion of the sugar in a +preserving-pan with 1/4 pint of water; when this is melted, gradually +add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a clear +syrup, skimming well. As soon as this is the case, put in the pieces of +pine, and boil well for at least 1/2 hour, or until it looks nearly +transparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and store away in a +dry place. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to boil the fruit. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. +pot. + +_Seasonable_.--Foreign pines, in July and August. + + THE PINEAPPLE IN HEATHENDOM.--Heathen nations invented + protective divinities for their orchards (such as Pomona, + Vertumnus, Priapus, &c.), and benevolent patrons for their + fruits: thus, the olive-tree grew under the auspices of Minerva; + the Muses cherished the palm-tree, Bacchus the fig and grape, + _and the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great Cyble_. + +PRESERVED PINEAPPLE, for Present Use. + +1579. INGREDIENTS.--Pineapple, sugar, water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the pine into slices 1/4 inch in thickness; peel them, and +remove the hard part from the middle. Put the parings and hard pieces +into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil for 1/4 +hour. Strain the liquor, and put in the slices of pine. Stew them for 10 +minutes, add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, and boil +again for another 1/4 hour; skim well, and the preserve will be ready +for use. It must be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very short time. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the parings in water; 10 minutes to boil the +pine without sugar, 1/4 hour with sugar. + +_Average cost_.--Foreign pines, 1s. to 3s. each; English, from 2s. to +12s. per lb. + +_Seasonable_.--Foreign, in July and August; English, all the year. + + +PLUM JAM. + +1580. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of plums, weighed before being stoned, +allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--In making plum jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. of fruit +must be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit, some plums +requiring much more sugar than others. Divide the plums, take out the +stones, and put them on to large dishes, with roughly-pounded sugar +sprinkled over them in the above proportion, and let them remain for one +day; then put them into a preserving-pan, stand them by the side of the +fire to simmer gently for about 1/2 hour, and then boil them rapidly for +another 15 minutes. The scum must be carefully removed as it rises, and +the jam must be well stirred all the time, or it will burn at the bottom +of the pan, and so spoil the colour and flavour of the preserve. Some of +the stones may be cracked, and a few kernels added to the jam just +before it is done: these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums. +The above proportion of sugar would answer for Orleans plums; the +Imperatrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour would not require quite so much. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour to simmer gently, 1/4 hour to boil rapidly. + +_Best plums for preserving_.--Violets, Mussels, Orleans, Imperatrice +Magnum-bonum, and Winesour. + +_Seasonable_ from the end of July to the beginning of October. + + PLUMS.--The Damson, or Damascene plum, takes its name from + Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and whence it was + brought into Italy about 114 B.C. The Orleans plum is from + France. The Greengage is called after the Gage family, who first + brought it into England from the monastery of the Chartreuse, at + Paris, where it still bears the name of Reine Claude. The + Magnum-bonum is our largest plum, and greatly esteemed for + preserves and culinary purposes. The best sorts of plums are + agreeable at the dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are + wholesome; but some are too astringent. They lose much of their + bad qualities by baking, and are extensively used, from their + cheapness, when in full season, in tarts and preserves; but they + are not a very wholesome fruit, and should be eaten in + moderation. + +PRESERVED PLUMS. + +1581. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; +for the thin syrup, 1/4 lb. of sugar to each pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Select large ripe plums; slightly prick them, to prevent them +from bursting, and simmer them very gently in a syrup made with the +above proportion of sugar and water. Put them carefully into a pan, let +the syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and allow them to remain for two +days. Having previously weighed the other sugar, dip the lumps quickly +into water, and put them into a preserving-pan with no more water than +hangs about them; and boil the sugar to a syrup, carefully skimming it. +Drain the plums from the first syrup; put them into the fresh syrup, and +simmer them very gently until they are clear; lift them out singly into +pots, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover down to exclude the air. +This preserve will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place, and +makes a very nice addition to a dessert. The magnum-bonum plums answer +for this preserve better than any other kind of plum. Greengages are +also very delicious done in this manner. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup; +20 minutes to 1/2 hour very gentle simmering in the second. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + +TO PRESERVE PLUMS DRY. + +1582. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water. +_Mode_.--Gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turning +colour; prick them, put them into a saucepan of cold water, and set them +on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling. Then take them +out, drain them, and boil them gently in syrup made with the above +proportion of sugar and water; and if the plums shrink, and will not +take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan; give them another +boil, skim, and set them by. The next day add some more sugar, boiled +almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup; put all together into a +wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for 2 nights; then drain +the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and dry +them in a cool oven. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup. _Seasonable_ +from August to October. + + PLUMS.--The wild sloe is the parent of the plum, but the + acclimated kinds come from the East. The cultivation of this + fruit was probably attended to very early in England, as Gerrard + informs us that, in 1597, he had in his garden, in Holborn, + threescore sorts. The sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows, + and belongs to the natural order _Amygdaleae_; the fruit is + about the size of a large pea, of a black colour, and covered + with a bloom of a bright blue. It is one of the few indigenous + to our island. The juice is extremely sharp and astringent, and + was formerly employed as a medicine, where astringents were + necessary. It now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made + to imitate port, and also for adulteration. The leaves have been + used to adulterate tea; the fruit, when ripe, makes a good + preserve. + +STEWED FRENCH PLUMS. + +(_A Dessert Dish_.) + +1583. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of French plums, 3/4 pint of syrup No. +1512, 1 glass of port wine, the rind and juice of 1 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Stew the plums gently in water for 1 hour; strain the water, +and with it make the syrup. When it is clear, put in the plums with the +port wine, lemon-juice, and rind, and simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour. +Arrange the plums on a glass dish, take out the lemon-rind, pour the +syrup over the plums, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. A +little allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons considered an +improvement. + +_Time_.--1 hour to stew the plums in water, 1-1/2 hour in the syrup. + +_Average cost_,--plums sufficiently good for stewing, 1s. per lb. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in winter. + + +PRESERVED PUMPKIN. + +1584. INGREDIENTS.--To each lb. of pumpkin allow 1 lb. of roughly +pounded loaf sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Obtain a good sweet pumpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, and +pare off the rind; cut it into neat slices, or into pieces about the +size of a five-shilling piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the slices in a +pan or deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them; pour +the lemon-juice over the top, and let the whole remain for 2 or 3 days. +Boil altogether, adding 1/4 pint of water to every 3 lbs. of sugar used +until the pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, where +let it remain for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it is +quite thick; skim, and pour it, boiling, over the pumpkin. A little +bruised ginger and lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be boiled in the syrup +to flavour the pumpkin. + +_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the pumpkin tender. + +_Average cost_, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ in September and October; but better when made in the +latter month, as the pumpkin is then quite ripe. + +_Note_.--Vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same manner, +but are not quite so rich. + + +QUINCE JELLY. + +1585. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-pan +with sufficient water to float them. Boil them until tender, and the +fruit is reduced to a pulp; strain off the clear juice, and to each pint +allow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar +together for about 3/4 hour; remove all the scum as it rises, and, when +the jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate, it is done. +The residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common marmalade, +for immediate use, by boiling it with 1/2 lb. of common sugar to every +lb. of pulp. + +_Time_.--3 hours to boil the quinces in water; 3/4 hour to boil the +jelly. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ from August to October. + + +QUINCE MARMALADE. + +1586. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of quince pulp allow 3/4 lb. of loaf +sugar. + +_Mode_.--Slice the quinces into a preserving-pan, adding sufficient +water for them to float; place them on the fire to stew, until reduced +to a pulp, keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom, to prevent +their burning; then pass the pulp through a hair sieve, to keep back the +skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to each lb. add lump sugar in the +above proportion, broken very small. Place the whole on the fire, and +keep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, +until reduced to a marmalade, which may be known by dropping a little on +a cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilst +hot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the size +of the mouths of the jars. The tops of them may be afterwards covered +with pieces of bladder, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with +the white of an egg. + +_Time_.--3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar; 3/4 hour to boil +the pulp with the sugar. + +_Average cost_, from 8d. to 9d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 pint of sliced quinces for a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. + + +RAISIN CHEESE. + +1587. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of raisins allow a lb. of loaf sugar; +pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste. + +_Mode_.--Stone the raisins; put them into a stewpan with the sugar, +cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for 1-1/2 hour, stirring all the +time. Let the preparation cool a little, pour it into a glass dish, and +garnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron. This will remain +good some time, if kept in a dry place. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. _Sufficient_.--1 lb. for 4 or 5 +persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RASPBERRY JAM. + +1588. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of raspberries allow 1 lb. of sugar, +1/4 pint of red-currant juice. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather, +and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks, +put the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a wooden +spoon, and let them boil for 1/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Then +add the currant-juice and sugar, and boil again for 1/2 hour. Skim the +jam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will not be clear. +The addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to this +preserve, as it gives it a piquant taste, which the flavour of the +raspberries seems to require. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar; 1/4 hour after +it is added. + +_Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ in July and August. + + +RASPBERRY JELLY. + +1589. INGREDIENTS.--To each pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and picked +from the stalks; put them into a large jar, after breaking the fruit a +little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a saucepan +of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will be in from +3/4 to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth; +measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of loaf +sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the +fire, and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is poured +on a plate; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly +into small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly answers +for making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet dishes, +when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour to draw the juice. + +_Average cost_, from 9d. to 1s. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient._--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of +juice. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made in July or August. + + +RHUBARB JAM. + +1590. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar, +the rind of 1/2 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry, take off the string or peel, +and weigh it; put it into a preserving-pan, with sugar in the above +proportion; mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it to the other +ingredients, and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire; keep +stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and when the sugar is well +dissolved, put the pan more over the fire, and let the jam boil until it +is done, taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with a wooden +or silver spoon. Pour it into pots, and cover down with oiled and egged +papers. + +_Time_.--If the rhubarb is young and tender, 3/4 hour, reckoning from +the time it simmers equally; old rhubarb, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient_.--About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ from February to April. + + +RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, to resemble Scotch Marmalade. + +1591. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges, 1-1/2 lb. +of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Peel the oranges; remove as much of the white pith as possible, +divide them, and take out the pips; slice the pulp into a +preserving-pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, +and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel the rhubarb, cut +it into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, and stir altogether over a +gentle fire until the jam is done. Remove all the scum as it rises, put +the preserve into pots, and, when cold, cover down. Should the rhubarb +be very old, stew it alone for 1/4 hour before the other ingredients are +added. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Seasonable_ from February to April. + + +RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad. + +(_A Dessert Dish_.) + +1592. _Mode_.--Fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from the +stalks, piling it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely-pounded +sugar. They may be made of strawberries, raspberries, currants, or any +of these fruits mixed; peaches also make a very good salad. After the +sugar is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls of wine or brandy, +or 3 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, should be poured in the middle of the +fruit; and, when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon may be +added. In helping the fruit, it should be lightly stirred, that the wine +and sugar may be equally distributed. + +_Sufficient._--1-1/2 pint of fruit, with 3 oz. of pounded sugar, for 4 +or 5 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in summer. + + +STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. + +1593. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of picked strawberries allow 1/3 pint +of cream, 2 oz. of finely-pounded sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pick the stalks from the fruit, place it on a glass dish, +sprinkle over it pounded sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, that +they may all be equally sweetened; pour the cream over the top, and +serve. Devonshire cream, when it can be obtained, is exceedingly +delicious for this dish; and, if very thick indeed, may be diluted with +a little thin cream or milk. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. + +_Seasonable_ in June and July. + + +STRAWBERRY JAM. + +1594. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1/2 pint of red-currant +juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into a jar; place +this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the juice is +well drawn from the fruit; strain the currants, measure the juice, put +it into a preserving-pan, and add the sugar. Select well-ripened but +sound strawberries; pick them from the stalks, and when the sugar is +dissolved in the currant juice, put in the fruit. Simmer the whole over +a moderate fire, from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it +rises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent it from burning at the bottom +of the pan, as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. Put +the jam into jars, and when cold, cover down. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam simmers all +over. + +_Average cost_, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot. + +_Sufficient._--12 pints of strawberries will make 12 lb. pots of jam. + +_Seasonable_ in June and July. + + +PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES IN WINE. + +1595. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart bottle allow 1/4 lb. of +finely-pounded loaf sugar; sherry or Madeira. + +_Mode_.--Let the fruit be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon as +picked. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice soft +corks or bungs. Pick the stalks from the strawberries, drop them into +the bottles, sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in the above +proportion, and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the bottle, fill +up with sherry or Madeira. Cork the bottles down with new corks, and dip +them into melted resin. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in June or July. + + +TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE. + +1596. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1-1/2 lb. of good loaf +sugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice. + +_Mode_.--Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort and +of a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish, +and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar, which must be finely +pounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be equally +distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let it remain for +1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant jelly +No. 1533; boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thin +syrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar, until the whole is +sufficiently jellied. Great care must be taken not to stir the fruit +roughly, as it should be preserved as whole as possible. Strawberries +prepared in this manner are very good served in glasses and mixed with +thin cream. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup. + +_Seasonable_ in June and July. + + +TO MAKE EVERTON TOFFEE. + +1597. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of water, +1/4 lb. of butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon. + +_Mode_.--Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and beat the butter +to a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter, and keep +stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is +poured on to a buttered dish; and just before the toffee is done, add +the essence of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, and +when cool, it will easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, an +excellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white sugar, +omitting the water, and flavoured with 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger. It is +made in the same manner as toffee. + +_Time_.--18 to 35 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ to make a lb. of toffee. + + +DESSERT DISHES. + +[Illustration: DISH OF NUTS.] + +[Illustration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.] + +[Illustration: DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.] + +1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our +illustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit +can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes +than on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed down +the centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the former +being arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and the latter on +the dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the same +day that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged on +the dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits that +are in season, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These, +with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c., are +sufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, +dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandy +pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, with the addition of preserves, +bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, forced fruit is +served growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones, +and arranged with the other dishes.--(See coloured plate W1.) A few +vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to the +appearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a few +paper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a substitute. +In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vase +or two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to the +elegance of the _tout ensemble_. In summer and autumn, ladies residing +in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers +on their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. On +the continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably +placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Ices +for dessert are usually moulded: when this is not the case, they are +handed round in glasses with wafers to accompany them. Preserved ginger +is frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for the +delicious dessert wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugar +must never be omitted at a dessert, as also a glass jug of fresh cold +water (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape-scissors, +a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table, +if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes served +at the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. The +French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or +dried fruit. At some tables, finger-glasses are placed at the right of +each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter +with tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a glass or +vase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which each +guest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his +lips and the tips of his fingers. + +[Illustration: BOX OF CHOCOLATE.] + +[Illustration: DISH OF APPLES.] + +[Illustration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS.] + +[Illustration: DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.] + +After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates, +glasses, spoons, &c., the wine should be put at each end of the table, +cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the +wine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host. + + +DISH OF NUTS. + +1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, as +shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filberts +should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts +should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then--with a dry one, to +remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have. + +_Seasonable_.--Filberts from September to March, good; may be had after +that time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from September +to January. + + HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT.--The common Hazel is the wild, and the + Filbert the cultivated state of the same tree. The hazel is + found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and + ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and + mountainous parts of the country. It was formerly one of the + most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this + island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps + its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts + imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and + rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and the white, and + the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common + hazel, which have been produced, partly by the superiority of + soil and climate, and partly by culture. They were originally + brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way + to Holland, and from that country to England. It is supposed + that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more + filberts grown than in all England besides; and it is from that + place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is longer + than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and has a + larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is + roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common + nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from + oil, and disagree with few persons. + + WALNUTS.--The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and + China, but was introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe + kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable + flavour; and the fruit is also much used in the green state, but + before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts + are employed in tarts and other dishes. The Walnut abounds in + oil which is expressed and which, being of a highly drying + nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting. + This, on the continent, is sometimes used as a substitute for + olive-oil in cooking, but is very apt to turn rancid. It is also + manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse matter + after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry + or other domestic animals. In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor + people under the name of _pain amer._ + +BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS. + +1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it may +be placed on the table; if small, on a glass dish; if large, without +one, French plums may also be arranged on a glass plate, and garnished +with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. All +fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table +or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, be +left to individual taste. + +_Seasonable_.--May be purchased all the year; but are in greater +perfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, as +fresh fruit cannot be obtained. + + +DISH OF MIXED FRUIT. + +1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a +remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A +high raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done in +the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, in +this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thick +layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such +fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of moss +underneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shape +to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portion +of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a neglige +kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. In +arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a dessert in September or October. + + GRAPES.--France produces about a thousand varieties of the + grape, which is cultivated more extensively in that country than + in any other. Hygienists agree in pronouncing grapes as among + the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities: + it is nourishing and fattening, and its prolonged use has often + overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation. The skins and + pips of grapes should not be eaten. + +BOX OF CHOCOLATE. + +1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate or +dish. + +_Seasonable_.--May be purchased at any time. + + +DISH OF APPLES. + +1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arranged +on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between each +layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with the +bright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay, +holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnishing dessert +dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also be +wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table. + + +DISH OF MIXED SUMMER FRUIT. + +1604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, and +strawberries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves between +each layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should be +arranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely one +with the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the +bottom, then one of red raspberries; over that a layer of white +currants, and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries. + +_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. + + +ALMONDS AND RAISINS. + +1605. These are usually served on glass dishes, the fruit piled high in +the centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch the +almonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them boiling +water, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may then be +easily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, &c., are all served on small +glass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh fruit +is not obtainable. + + DATES.--Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from + Barbary and Egypt, and, when in good condition, they are much + esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which are + dried hard, and have little or no flavour. They should be chosen + large, softish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on + the outside, with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the + stone. + +DISH OF STRAWBERRIES. + +1606. Fine strawberries, arranged in the manner shown in the engraving, +look exceedingly well. The inferior ones should be placed at the bottom +of the dish, and the others put in rows pyramidically, with the stalks +downwards; so that when the whole is completed, nothing but the red part +of the fruit is visible. The fruit should be gathered with rather long +stalks, as there is then something to support it, and it can be placed +more upright in each layer. A few of the finest should be reserved to +crown the top. + + +TO HAVE WALNUTS FRESH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON. + +1607. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Place the walnuts in the salt and water for 24 hours at least; +then take them out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may be freshened in this +manner; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put into an earthen pan +with salt sprinkled amongst them, and with damped hay placed on the top +of them, and then covered down with a lid. They must be well wiped +before they are put on table. + +_Seasonable_.--Should be stored away in September or October. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXXII. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. + + +MILK. + +1608. Milk is obtained only from the class of animals called Mammalia, +and is intended by Nature for the nourishment of their young. The milk +of each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities; but as that of +the cow is by far the most useful to us in this part of the world, our +observations will be confined to that variety. + +1609. Milk, when drawn from the cow, is of a yellowish-white colour, and +is the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Its +taste is agreeable, and rather saccharine. The viscidity and specific +gravity of milk are somewhat greater than that of water; but these +properties vary somewhat in the milk procured from different +individuals. On an average, the specific gravity of milk is 1.035, water +being 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed afford the richest milk. + +1610. Milk which is carried to a considerable distance, so as to be much +agitated, and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream, +never throws up so much, nor such rich cream, as if the same milk had +been put into pans directly after it was milked. + +1611. Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domestic +economy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely +valuable. To enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary; it +has always been a favourite food in Britain. "Lacte et carno vivunt," +says Caesar, in his Commentaries; the English of which is, "the +inhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk." The breed of the cow has +received great improvement in modern times, as regards the quantity and +quality of the milk which she affords; the form of milch-cows, their +mode of nourishment, and progress, are also manifest in the management +of the dairy. + +1612. Although milk in its natural state be a fluid, yet, considered as +an aliment, it is both solid and fluid: for no sooner does it enter the +stomach, than it is coagulated by the gastric juice, and separated into +curd and whey, the first of these being extremely nutritive. + +1613. Milk of the _human subject_ is much thinner than cow's milk; +_Ass's milk_ comes the nearest to human milk of any other; _Goat's milk_ +is something thicker and richer than cow's milk; _Ewe's milk_ has the +appearance of cow's milk, and affords a larger quantity of cream; +_Mare's milk_ contains more sugar than that of the ewe; _Camel's milk_ +is used only in Africa; _Buffalo's milk_ is employed in India. + +1614. From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of +distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk; some forming food, +others drink; some of them delicious, and deserving the name of +luxuries; all of them wholesome, and some medicinal: indeed, the variety +of aliments that seems capable of being produced from milk, appears to +be quite endless. In every age this must have been a subject for +experiment, and every nation has added to the number by the invention of +some peculiarity of its own. + + +BUTTER. + +1615. BECKMAN, in his "History of Inventions," states that butter was +not used either by the Greeks or Romans in cooking, nor was it brought +upon their tables at certain meals, as is the custom at present. In +England it has been made from time immemorial, though the art of making +cheese is said not to have been known to the ancient Britons, and to +have been learned from their conquerors. + +1616. The taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fatty +substance. It is extremely agreeable when of the best quality; but its +flavour depends much upon the food given to the cows: to be good, it +should not adhere to the knife. + +1617. Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regarded +nearly in the light of vegetable oils and animal fats; but it becomes +sooner rancid than most other fat oils. When fresh, it cannot but be +considered as very wholesome; but it should be quite free from +rancidity. If slightly salted when it is fresh, its wholesomeness is +probably not at all impaired; but should it begin to turn rancid, +salting will not correct its unwholesomeness. When salt butter is put +into casks, the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid, +and this rancidity is also liable to affect the whole cask. + +1618. _Epping butter_ is the kind most esteemed in London. _Fresh +butter_ comes to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire, +Yorkshire, Devonshire, &c. _Cambridge butter_ is esteemed next to fresh; +_Devonshire butter_ is nearly similar in quality to the latter; _Irish +butter_ sold in London is all salted, but is generally good. The number +of firkins exported annually from Ireland amounts to 420,000, equal to a +million of money. _Dutch butter_ is in good repute all over Europe, +America, and even India; and no country in the world is so successful in +the manufacture of this article, Holland supplying more butter to the +rest of the world than any country whatever. + +1619. There are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter. In +one, the cream is separated from the milk, and in that state it is +converted into butter by churning, as is the practice about Epping; in +the other, milk is subjected to the same process, which is the method +usually followed in Cheshire. The first method is generally said to give +the richest butter, and the latter the largest quantity, though some are +of opinion that there is little difference either in quality or +quantity. + + +CHEESE. + +1620. CHEESE is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation, +pressed and dried for use. Curd, called also casein and caseous matter, +or the basis of cheese, exists in the milk, and not in the cream, and +requires only to be separated by coagulation. The coagulation, however, +supposes some alteration of the curd. By means of the substance employed +to coagulate it, it is rendered insoluble in water. When the curd is +freed from the whey, kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely, it +becomes cheese. This assumes a degree of transparency, and possesses +many of the properties of coagulated albumen. If it be well dried, it +does not change by exposure to the air; but if it contain moisture, it +soon putrefies. It therefore requires some salt to preserve it, and this +acts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All our cheese is coloured more or +less, except that made from skim milk. The colouring substances employed +are arnatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they +are adulterated; and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains red +lead. + +1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materials +of which it is composed. It is made--1. Of entire milk, as in Cheshire; +2. of milk and cream, as at Stilton; 3. of new milk mixed with skimmed +milk, as in Gloucestershire; 4. of skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk, +Holland, and Italy. + +1622. The principal varieties of cheese used in England are the +following:--_Cheshire cheese_, famed all over Europe for its rich +quality and fine piquant flavour. It is made of entire new milk, the +cream not being taken off. _Gloucester cheese_ is much milder in its +taste than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Gloucester +cheese,--single and double. _Single Gloucester_ is made of skimmed milk, +or of the milk deprived of half the cream; _Double Gloucester_ is a +cheese that pleases almost every palate: it is made of the whole milk +and cream. _Stilton cheese_ is made by adding the cream of one day to +the entire milk of the next: it was first made at Stilton, in +Leicestershire. _Sage cheese_ is so called from the practice of +colouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, and parsley, and +mixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the Romans, and during the +middle ages, this practice was extensively adopted. _Cheddar cheese_ +much resembles Parmesan. It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, and +has a spongy appearance. _Brickbat cheese_ has nothing remarkable except +its form. It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new +milk. The curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and is +then pressed and dried in the usual way. _Dunlop cheese_ has a +peculiarly mild and rich taste: the best is made entirely from new milk. +_New cheese_ (as it is called in London) is made chiefly in +Lincolnshire, and is either made of all cream, or, like Stilton. by +adding the cream of one day's milking to the milk that comes immediately +from the cow: they are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two or +three times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes, +salad, &c. _Skimmed Milk cheese_ is made for sea voyages principally. +_Parmesan cheese_ is made in Parma and Piacenza. It is the most +celebrated of all cheese: it is made entirely of skimmed cow's milk. The +high flavour which it has, is supposed to be owing to the rich herbage +of the meadows of the Po, where the cows are pastured. The best Parmesan +is kept for three or four years, and none is carried to market till it +is at least six months old. _Dutch cheese_ derives its peculiar pungent +taste from the practice adopted in Holland of coagulating the milk with +muriatic acid instead of rennet. _Swiss cheeses_ in their several +varieties are all remarkable for their fine flavour. That from +_Gruyere_, a bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is best known in +England. It is flavoured by the dried herb of _Melilotos officinalis_ in +powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and +Saxony. _Cream cheese_, although so called, is not properly cheese, but +is nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. + + +EGGS. + +1623. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, +although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary +somewhat. Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food, +particularly when "new-laid." The quality of eggs depends much upon the +food given to the hen. Eggs in general are considered most easily +digestible when little subjected to the art of cookery. The lightest way +of dressing them is by poaching, which is effected by putting them for a +minute or two into brisk boiling water: this coagulates the external +white, without doing the inner part too much. Eggs are much better when +new-laid than a day or two afterwards. The usual time allotted for +boiling eggs in the shell is 3 to 3-3/4 minutes: less time than that in +boiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white, and more +will make the yolk hard and less digestible: it is very difficult to +_guess_ accurately as to the time. Great care should be employed in +putting them into the water, to prevent cracking the shell, which +inevitably causes a portion of the white to exude, and lets water into +the egg. Eggs are often beaten up raw in nutritive beverages. + +1624. Eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cookery, +entrees, and entremets, and they form an essential ingredient in pastry, +creams, flip, &c. It is particularly necessary that they should be quite +fresh, as nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett justly says, stale, +or even preserved eggs, are things to be run from, not after. + +1625. The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of the +kingdom, and they are likewise largely imported from various places on +the continent; as France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. It +appears from official statements mentioned in McCulloch's "Commercial +Dictionary," that the number imported from France alone amounts to about +60,000,000 a year; and supposing them on an average to cost fourpence a +dozen, it follows that we pay our continental neighbours above L83,000 a +year for eggs. + +1626. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour. Those of +the ostrich are the largest: one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed +2 lbs. 14 oz., held a pint, and was six inches deep: this is about the +usual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe _ostrich +eggs_ as of an agreeable taste: they keep longer than hen's eggs. +Drinking-cups are often made of the shell, which is very strong. The +eggs of the _turkey_ are almost as mild as those of the hen; the egg of +the _goose_ is large, but well-tasted. _Duck's eggs_ have a rich +flavour; the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set or +coagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hen's eggs. +_Guinea-fowl eggs_ are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. +Eggs of _wild fowl_ are generally coloured, often spotted; and the taste +generally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to. +Those of land birds that are eaten, as the _plover, lapwing, ruff_, &c., +are in general much esteemed; but those of _sea-fowl_ have, more or +less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs of the _turtle_ are very numerous: +they consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + + +SEPARATION OF MILK AND CREAM. + +1627. If it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely from +cream, it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish, not +more than 1-1/2 inch deep, as cream cannot rise through a great depth of +milk. In cold and wet weather, milk is not so rich as it is in summer +and warm weather, and the morning's milk is always richer than the +evening's. The last-drawn milk of each milking, at all times and +seasons, is richer than the first-drawn, and on that account should be +set apart for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible when +carried from the cow to the dairy, and should be poured into the pans +very gently. Persons not keeping cows, may always have a little cream, +provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated. As soon as it +comes in, it should be poured into very shallow open pie-dishes, and set +by in a very cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours a nice cream should have +risen to the surface. + + MILK is one of the most complete of all articles of food: that + is to say, it contains a very large number of the elements which + enter into the composition of the human body. It "disagrees" + with fat, heavy, languid people, of slow circulation; and, at + first, with many people of sedentary habits, and stomachs + weakened by stimulants of different kinds. But, if exercise can + be taken and a little patience shown, while the system + accommodates itself to a new regimen, this bland and soothing + article of diet is excellent for the majority of thin, nervous + people; especially for those who have suffered much from + emotional disturbances, or have relaxed their stomachs by too + much tea or coffee, taken too hot. Milk is, in fact, a nutrient + and a sedative at once. Stomachs, however, have their + idiosyncrasies, and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and + ill-digested article of food. As milk, when good, contains a + good deal of respiratory material (fat),--material which _must_ + either be burnt off, or derange the liver, and be rejected in + other ways, it may disagree because the lungs are not + sufficiently used in the open air. But it is very probable that + there are really "constitutions" which cannot take to it; and + _they_ should not be forced. + +TO KEEP MILK AND CREAM IN HOT WEATHER. + +1628. When the weather is very warm, and it is very difficult to prevent +milk from turning sour and spoiling the cream, it should be scalded, and +it will then remain good for a few hours. It must on no account be +allowed to boil, or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon the +milk; and the slower the process, the safer will it be. A very good plan +to scald milk, is to put the pan that contains it into a saucepan or +wide kettle of boiling water. When the surface looks thick, the milk is +sufficiently scalded, and it should then be put away in a cool place in +the same vessel that it was scalded in. Cream may be kept for 24 hours, +if scalded without sugar; and by the addition of the latter ingredient, +it will remain good double the time, if kept in a cool place. All pans, +jugs, and vessels intended for milk, should be kept beautifully clean, +and well scalded before the milk is put in, as any negligence in this +respect may cause large quantities of it to be spoiled; and milk should +never be kept in vessels of zinc or copper. Milk may be preserved good +in hot weather, for a few hours, by placing the jug which contains it in +ice, or very cold water; or a pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be +introduced into the liquid. + + MILK, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour: the + cream always comes to the top; the well-known milky odour is + strong; it will boil without altering its appearance, in these + respects; the little bladders which arise on the surface will + renew themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in + fact, the simplest way of testing its quality. The commonest + adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is a + good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a + little starch, or colored with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but + these processes have nothing murderous in them. + +CURDS AND WHEY. + +1629. INGREDIENTS.--A very small piece of rennet, 1/2 gallon of milk. + +_Mode_.--Procure from the butcher's a small piece of rennet, which is +the stomach of the calf, taken as soon as it is killed, scoured, and +well rubbed with salt, and stretched on sticks to dry. Pour some boiling +water on the rennet, and let it remain for 6 hours; then use the liquor +to turn the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the cow: if +allowed to cool, it must be heated till it is of a degree quite equal to +new milk; but do not let it be too hot. About a tablespoonful or rather +more, would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of milk into +curds and whey; and whilst the milk is turning, let it be kept in rather +a warm place. + +_Time_.--From 2 to 3 hours to turn the milk. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DEVONSHIRE CREAM. + +1630. The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, half that time when +the weather is very warm. The milkpan is then set on a stove, and should +there remain until the milk is quite hot; but it must not boil, or there +will be a thick skin on the surface. When it is sufficiently done, the +undulations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The time +required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat +of the fire; but the slower it is done, the better. The pan should be +placed in the dairy when the cream is sufficiently scalded, and skimmed +the following day. This cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the +London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious eaten +with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and is +usually very firm. + + +DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. + +1631. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of new milk allow 2 dessertspoonfuls +of brandy, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and 1-1/2 dessertspoonful of +prepared rennet; thick cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk blood-warm; put it into a deep dish with the +brandy, sugar, and rennet; stir it altogether, and cover it over until +it is set. Then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top, grate +some nutmeg, and strew some sugar over, and the dish will be ready to +serve. + +_Time_.--About 2 hours to set the milk. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO KEEP AND CHOOSE FRESH BUTTER. + +1632. Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool place, and in as large +a mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as the more +surface is exposed, the more liability there will be to spoil; and the +outside very soon becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be kept covered +with white paper. For small larders, butter-coolers of red brick are now +very much used for keeping fresh butter in warm weather. These coolers +are made with a large bell-shaped cover, into the top of which a little +cold water should be poured, and in summer time very frequently changed; +and the butter must be kept covered. These coolers keep butter +remarkably firm in hot weather, and are extremely convenient for those +whose larder accommodation is limited. + +[Illustration: BUTTER-DISH.] + +In choosing fresh butter, remember it should smell deliciously, and be +of an equal colour all through: if it smells sour, it has not been +sufficiently washed from the buttermilk; and if veiny and open, it has +probably been worked with a staler or an inferior sort. + + +TO PRESERVE AND TO CHOOSE SALT BUTTER. + +1633. In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at a time, +the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out, and, +with a clean knife, to scrape the outside; the tub should then be wiped +with a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the butter +replaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary to +take these precautions, as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness in the +dairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid, and if the +scraping be neglected, the whole mass would soon become spoiled. To +choose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when drawn out, the +blade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad. The layers in tubs +will vary greatly, the butter being made at different times; so, to try +if the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped, and the butter +tried between the staves. + +It is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream, or +from unskimmed milk, by the churn. Of course it partakes of the +qualities of the milk, and winter butter is said not to be so good as +spring butter. + +A word of caution is necessary about _rancid_ butter. Nobody eats it on +bread, but it is sometimes used in cooking, in forms in which the +acidity can be more or less disguised. So much the worse; it is almost +poisonous, disguise it as you may. Never, under any exigency whatever, +be tempted into allowing butter with even a _soupcon_ of "turning" to +enter into the composition of any dish that appears on your table. And, +in general, the more you can do without the employment of butter that +has been subjected to the influence of heat, the better. The woman of +modern times is not a "leech;" but she might often keep the "leech" from +the door, if she would give herself the trouble to invent _innocent_ +sauces. + + +BUTTER-MOULDS, for Moulding Fresh Butter. + +[Illustration: DISH OF ROLLED BUTTER.] + +1634. Butter-moulds, or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter, are +much used, and are made in a variety of forms and shapes. In using them, +let them be kept scrupulously clean, and before the butter is pressed +in, the interior should be well wetted with cold water; the butter must +then be pressed in, the mould opened, and the perfect shape taken out. +The butter may be then dished, and garnished with a wreath of parsley, +if for a cheese course; if for breakfast, put it into an ornamental +butter-dish, with a little water at the bottom, should the weather be +very warm. + + +CURLED BUTTER. + +1635. Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the +wall; make a knot with the other two ends, so that a stick might pass +through. Put the butter into the cloth; twist it tightly over a dish, +into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small and +pretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley, if +to serve with a cheese course; or it may be sent to table plain for +breakfast, in an ornamental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing hams, +salads, eggs, &c., is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in the +shape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from the +hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon or +scooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly and thin. In +warm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the spoon. + + BUTTER may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple + process. Knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk is + extracted; then put it in a glazed jar, which invert in another, + putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to + exclude the air. Renew the water every day. + +FAIRY BUTTER. + +1636. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of +orange-flower water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1/4 lb. of good +fresh butter. + +_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar, with the +orange-flower water and the sugar, until the whole is reduced to a fine +paste; add the butter, and force all through an old but clean cloth by +wringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard. The butter will +then drop on the plate in large and small pieces, according to the holes +in the cloth. Plain butter may be done in the same manner, and is very +quickly prepared, besides having a very good effect. + + BUTTER.--White-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the + yellow; but the yellow colour is often artificially produced, by + the introduction of colouring matter into the churn. + +ANCHOVY BUTTER. + +1637. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of butter allow 6 anchovies, 1 small +bunch of parsley. + +_Mode_.--Wash, bone, and pound the anchovies well in a mortar; scald the +parsley, chop it, and rub through a sieve; then pound all the +ingredients together, mix well, and make the butter into pats +immediately. This makes a pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, for +breakfast or supper, and should be garnished with parsley. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 dishes, with 4 pats each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CHEESE. + +1638. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in +large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the +larger quantity spread with a thickly-buttered sheet of white paper, and +the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheeses moist that are in daily +use, when they come from table a damp cloth should be wrapped round +them, and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to it, in a cool but +not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them forward, put them +into a damp cellar; and, to check too large a production of mites, +spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which +are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into +Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with macaroni. Cheeses may be +preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment +made pliable by soaking in water, or by rubbing them over with a coating +of melted fat. The cheeses selected should be free from cracks or +bruises of any kind. + + CHEESE.--It is well known that some persons like cheese in a + state of decay, and even "alive." There is no accounting for + tastes, and it maybe hard to show why mould, which is + vegetation, should not be eaten as well as salad, or maggots as + well as eels. But, generally speaking, decomposing bodies are + not wholesome eating, and the line must be drawn somewhere. + +STILTON CHEESE. + +[Illustration: STILTON CHEESE.] + +1639. Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as it is sometimes called, is +generally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority few +will dispute. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas; +or, to be in prime order, should be kept from 10 to 12 months, or even +longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced +by inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the +top. From 3 weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An +additional flavour may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the +top, and pouring therein port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, and letting +the cheese absorb these for 2 or 3 weeks. But that cheese is the finest +which is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those who +are judges in these matters. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top of it +should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper, +with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, +the lid should be replaced. + + +MODE OF SERVING CHEESE. + +[Illustration: CHEESE-GLASS.] + +1640. The usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a small +quantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass +cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumble +much, of course this method is rather wasteful, and it may then be put +on the table in the piece, and the host may cut from it. When served +thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white +d'oyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream cheese is often served in a +cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan: the latter should he put +into a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, pats or slices of +butter, and salad, cucumber, or water-cresses, should always form part +of a cheese course. + + SMOKING CHEESES.--The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them + a sharp taste. They possessed public places expressly for this + use, and subject to police regulations which no one could evade. + + A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is + like a woman with one eye. + +CHEESE SANDWICHES. + +1641. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of brown bread-and-butter, thin slices of +cheese. + +_Mode_.--Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, some +slices about 1/2 inch thick, and place them between some slices of brown +bread-and-butter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the oven, +and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and very +quickly. + +_Time_.--10 minutes in a brisk oven. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each sandwich. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a sandwich for each person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + CHEESE.--One of the most important products of coagulated milk + is cheese. Unfermented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is + good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree; but cheese, + in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people as an + after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quantity. Bread and + cheese, as a meal, is only fit for soldiers on march or + labourers in the open air, who like it because it "holds the + stomach a long time." + +CAYENNE CHEESES. + +1642. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of +grated cheese, 1/3 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt; +water. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter in the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne. +and salt; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten with +sufficient water to make the whole into a paste; roll out, and cut into +fingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a very +light colour, and serve very hot. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE A FONDUE. + +1643. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshire +cheese, the weight of 2 in butter; pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former +in a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into _very thin_ flakes. +Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the most +convenient, although the former is considered more suitable for this +dish; or an equal quantity of each may be used. Break the butter into +small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepper +and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk +the whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake the fondue +in a souffle-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half full, +as the fondue should rise very much. Pin a napkin round the tin or dish, +and serve very hot and very quickly. If allowed to stand after it is +withdrawn from the oven, the beauty and lightness of this preparation +will be entirely spoiled. + +_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +BRILLAT SAVARIN'S FONDUE. + +(_An excellent Recipe_.) + +1644. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper and salt. + +_Mode_.--Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh the +eggs in the shell, allow a third of their weight in Gruyere cheese, and +a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break the eggs +into a basin, beat them well; add the cheese, which should be grated, +and the butter, which should be broken into small pieces. Stir these +ingredients together with a wooden spoon; put the mixture into a lined +saucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the substance is thick +and soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age of the cheese, and +a good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue on a very hot silver +or metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after the +mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely spoiled. Brillat +Savarin recommends that some choice Burgundy should he handed round with +this dish. We have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to be +made; but we have tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and found it +answer remarkably well. + +_Time_.--About 4 minutes to set the mixture. + +_Average cost_ for 4 persons, 10d. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 egg, with the other ingredients in proportion, +for one person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MACARONI, as usually served with the CHEESE COURSE. + +I. + +1645. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. +of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of +milk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to +flavour it; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop in +the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender; drain the +macaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated cheese, +either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some +of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for +the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of +cheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the +remainder of the butter, and pour it gently over the bread crumbs. Place +the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once or +twice, that it may be equally coloured, and serve very hot. The top of +the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than +placing it before the fire, as the process is more expeditious; but it +should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil, and so +impart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, +let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the +form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little +salt instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of butter +mixed with it. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it +before the fire. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does not +require boiling so long a time. + + +II. + +1646. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe or riband macaroni, 1/2 pint of +milk, 1/2 pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 +tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1 +oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk until +quite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather a +deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2 +tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in; make this +sufficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil; pour it over +the macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butter +broken into small pieces; brown with a salamander, or before the fire, +and serve. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken +the eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +III. + +1647. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravy +No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese. + +_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until quite +tender; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready a pint +of good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send it to table +with grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When the flavour is +liked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which the +macaroni is boiled; but this must always be sparingly added, as it will +impart a very strong flavour. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni. + +_Average cost_, with the gravy and cheese, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POUNDED CHEESE. + +1648. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of cheese allow 3 oz. of fresh butter. + +_Mode_.--To pound cheese is an economical way of using it, if it has +become dry; it is exceedingly good spread on bread, and is the best way +of eating it for those whose digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese into +small pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter in the +above proportion. Press it down into a jar, cover with clarified butter, +and it will keep for several days. The flavour may be very much +increased by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoonful to every lb.), or +cayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder is also not unfrequently mixed +with it. + + +RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE. + +1649. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of Cheshire cheese, 1/4 lb. of Parmesan +cheese, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll; +pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste. + +_Mode_.--Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain, and +put it into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped, +the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these +ingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them with +the paste, and put it into small pans or saucers, which should not be +more than half filled. Bake them from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve them +very hot and very quickly. This batter answers equally well for macaroni +after it is boiled tender. + +_Time_--10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +PASTRY RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE. + +1650. INGREDIENTS.--Any pieces of very good light puff-paste Cheshire, +Parmesan, or Stilton cheese. + +_Mode_.--The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, &c. +answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste, +roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a nice +flavour. Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle more +cheese over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shape +it in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven +from 10 to 15 minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. The +appearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing the +ramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven. Where +expense is not objected to, Parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use +for making this dish. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TOASTED CHEESE, or SCOTCH RARE-BIT. + +1651. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rich cheese, toast, mustard, and +pepper. + +[Illustration: HOT-WATER CHEESE-DISH.] + +_Mode_.--Cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices; melt +it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and, when melted, +add a small quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper; stir +the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then brown it before the +fire, or with a salamander. Fill the bottom of the cheese-toaster with +hot water, and serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may be +preferred. Our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-water +reservoir: the cheese is melted in the upper tin, which is placed in +another vessel of boiling water, so keeping the preparation beautifully +hot. A small quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes mixed with +the cheese; and, if it be not very rich, a few pieces of butter may be +mixed with it to great advantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread +on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-dish at the top of the hot +water. Whichever way it is served, it is highly necessary that the +mixture be very hot, and very quickly sent to table, or it will be +worthless. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes to melt the cheese. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per slice. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TOASTED CHEESE, or WELSH RARE-BIT. + +1652. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucester +cheese, mustard, and pepper. + +_Mode_.--Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; pare off +the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and +spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, +from a good rich fat cheese; lay them on the toasted bread in a +cheese-toaster; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be +equally melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a +seasoning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To +facilitate the melting of the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes or +toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so +essential to send this dish hot to table, it is a good plan to melt the +cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to +table, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast +should always accompany them, with mustard, pepper, and salt. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes to melt the cheese. + +_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each slice. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Should the cheese be dry, a little butter mixed with it will be +an improvement. + + "COW CHEESE."--It was only fifty years after Aristotle--the + fourth century before Christ--that butter began to be noticed as + an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and + Scythians, who used to send it to them, had it served upon their + tables, and called it at first "oil of milk," and later, + _bouturos_, "cow cheese." + +SCOTCH WOODCOCK. + +1653. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of hot buttered toast; allow 1 anchovy +to each slice. For the sauce,--1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the +former, stir to them the cream, and bring the sauce to the +boiling-point, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Have +ready some hot buttered toast, spread with anchovies pounded to a paste; +pour a little of the hot sauce on the top, and serve very hot and very +quickly. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to make the sauce hot. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO CHOOSE EGGS. + +1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the egg, +and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh egg. +Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before a +lighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it will be +tolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and if there is a black spot +attached to the shell, it is worthless. No egg should be used for +culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will render +perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed. Eggs that are +purchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in a +cup, and then put into a basin: by this means stale or bad eggs may be +easily rejected, without wasting the others. + + EGGS contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment + than any other article of food. But it does not follow that they + are always good for weak stomachs; quite the contrary; for it is + often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work + upon, a considerable volume of _ingesta_, over which the + nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of + the gastric juice at many points. There are many persons who + cannot digest eggs, however cooked. It is said, however, that + their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in + which they are hardened by boiling. + +TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS. + +1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts, +full of boiling water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at a +time, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) _for_ 20 +_seconds_. Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as you +wish to preserve; then pack them away in sawdust. We have tried this +method of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence: they will +be found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough for culinary +purposes; and although the white may be a little tougher than that of a +new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same. Many persons keep eggs +for a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil: they +should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, and the eggs not +allowed to touch each other. Eggs for storing should be collected in +fine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours old when they are +packed away, or their flavour, when used, cannot be relied on. Another +simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soon +after they have been laid, and then to put the vessel containing the +lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse. + +_Seasonable_.--The best time for preserving eggs is from July to +September. + + EGGS.--The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by + the food of the fowls who lay them. Herbs and grain together + make a better food than grain only. When the hens eat too many + insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour. + +TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c. + +[Illustration: EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.] + +1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after +they are laid; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a +new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old. Have ready a +saucepan of boiling water; put the eggs into it gently with a spoon, +letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is +withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack. For those +who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will be found sufficient; 3-3/4 +to 4 minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely; and, if liked +hard, 6 to 7 minutes will not be found too long. Should the eggs be +unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow an +extra 1/2 minute for them. Eggs for salads should be boiled from 10 +minutes to 1/4 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a +few minutes; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, and +the shell will peel off easily. + +_Time_.--To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes; to +boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3-3/4 to 4 minutes; to boil +eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes. + +_Note_.--Silver or plated egg-dishes, like that shown in our engraving, +are now very much used. The price of the one illustrated is L2. 2s., and +may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand. + + EGGS.--When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel _full_ of + boiling water, they crack, because the eggs being well filled, + the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids, + dilated by heat. If the volume of hot water be small, the shells + do not crack, because its temperature is reduced by the eggs + before the interior dilation can take place. Stale eggs, again, + do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed. + +BUTTERED EGGS. + +1657. INGREDIENTS.--4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Procure the eggs new-laid if possible; break them into a basin, +and beat them well; put the butter into another basin, which place in +boiling water, and stir till the butter is melted. Pour that and the +eggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, as the +mixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin, and +back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keep +stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, _without +boiling_, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to +boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled. + +_Time_.--About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot. _Average cost_, 7d. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DUCKS' EGGS. + +1658. Ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainly +boiled, they are not good for eating; they answer, however, very well +for various culinary preparations where eggs are required; such as +custards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck's egg will +go as far as 2 small hen's eggs; besides making whatever they are mixed +with exceedingly rich. They also are admirable when used in puddings. + + PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS.--The shepherds of Egypt had a + singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire. They + placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly that the + friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for + use. + +FRIED EGGS. + +1659. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of lard, butter or clarified +dripping. + +[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON.] + +_Mode_.--Place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire; put in +the fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point. Break the eggs into +cups, slip them into the boiling fat, and let them remain until the +whites are delicately set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle a little +of the fat over them. Take them up with a slice, drain them for a minute +from their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of +fried bacon or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish, +with the bacon put round as a garnish. + +_Time_.--2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, 1d. each; 2d. when scarce. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + VENERATION FOR EGGS.--Many of the most learned philosophers held + eggs in a kind of respect, approaching to veneration, because + they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements. + The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white, water; + the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of + the egg. + +EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. + +1660. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, +1/2 pint of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced +parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan; stir them +over the fire until the mixture thickens; pour in the milk, which should +be boiling; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole for +5 minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce, and add the +minced parsley; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut the +eggs into quarters, and put them on a dish. Bring the sauce to the +boiling-point, add the lemon-juice, pour over the eggs, and serve. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in which they are +Cooked. + +1661. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter; melt it, +break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them with +white pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter, cut +into very small pieces, on the top of them. Put the dish on a hot plate, +or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the whites +become set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the dish they +were cooked in on another. To hasten the cooking of the eggs, a +salamander may be held over them for a minute; but great care must be +taken that they are not too much done. This is an exceedingly nice dish, +and one very easily prepared for breakfast. + +_Time_.--3 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +PLOVERS' EGGS. + +1662. Plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to table in +a napkin, either hot or cold. They may also be shelled, and served the +same as eggs a la Tripe, with a good Bechamel sauce, or brown gravy, +poured over them. They are also used for decorating salads, the +beautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired. + + +POACHED EGGS. + +[Illustration: EGGS POACHED ON TOAST.] + +[Illustration: TIN EGG-POACHER.] + +1663. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, water. To every pint of water allow 1 +tablespoonful of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quite +new-laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for the +purpose. If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almost +impossible to set it; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at all +stale, it is equally difficult to poach it nicely. Strain some boiling +water into a deep clean frying-pan; break the egg into a cup without +damaging the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the side +of the fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Place the pan over a +gentle fire, and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely +set, when the egg is ready. Take it up gently with a slice, cut away the +ragged edges of the white, and serve either on toasted bread or on +slices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &c. A poached egg should not be +overdone, as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolk +be allowed to harden. When the egg is slipped into the water, the white +should be gathered together, to keep it a little in form, or the cup +should be turned over it for 1 minute. To poach an egg to perfection is +rather a difficult operation; so, for inexperienced cooks, a tin +egg-poacher may be purchased, which greatly facilitates this manner of +dressing ecgs. Our illustration clearly shows what it is: it consists of +a tin plate with a handle, with a space for three perforated cups. An +egg should be broken into each cup, and the machine then placed in a +stewpan of boiling water, which has been previously strained. When the +whites of the eggs appear set, they are done, and should then be +carefully slipped on to the toast or spinach, or with whatever they are +served. In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at a +time; and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which +the eggs are done, use the above proportion. + +_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, according to the size of the egg. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 eggs to each person. + +_Seasonable_ at any time, but less plentiful in winter. + + +POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM. + +1664. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4 +teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper, +and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and break +each egg into a separate cup; bring the water, &c. to boil, and slip the +eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them from 3 to 4 +minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on to a hot +dish, and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, put in the +cream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded sugar; +bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter, broken into +small pieces; toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted; +pour it over the eggs, and serve. To insure the eggs not being spoiled +whilst the cream, &c., is preparing, it is a good plan to warm the cream +with the butter, &c., before the eggs are poached, so that it may be +poured over them immediately after they are dished. + +_Time_.--3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream. + +_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + +1665. COMPARATIVE SIZES OF EGGS. + +[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG. 2 TURKEY'S EGG. 3 DUCK'S EGG. 4 PLOVER'S +EGG.] + +SCOTCH EGGS. + +1666. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat No. 417, hot +lard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs for 10 minutes; strip them from the shells, and +cover them with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; or substitute pounded +anchovies for the ham. Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard, drain +them before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them, and pour +round from 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. To enhance the +appearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkled +with bread crumbs; but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefully +fried. The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat must +preponderate, as it should be very relishing. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +EGGS A LA TRIPE. + +1667. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Bechamel sauce No. 368, +dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley. + +_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard; put them into cold water, peel them, take +out the yolks whole, and shred the whites. Make 3/4 pint of Bechamel +sauce by recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and, when the sauce is quite +hot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish, and the +shred whites round them; pour over the sauce, and garnish with leaves of +puff-paste or fried croutons. There is no necessity for putting the eggs +into the saucepan with the Bechamel; the sauce, being quite hot, will +warm the eggs sufficiently. + +_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the eggs. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES. + + +BREAD AND BREAD-MAKING. + +1668. AMONG the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of food +for man, the Cereals hold the first place. By means of skilful +cultivation, mankind have transformed the original forms of these +growths, poor and ill-flavoured as they perhaps were, into various +fruitful and agreeable species, which yield an abundant and pleasant +supply. Classified according to their respective richness in alimentary +elements, the Cereals stand thus:--Wheat, and its varieties, Rye, +Barley, Oats, Rice, Indian Corn. Everybody knows it is wheat flour which +yields the best bread. Rye-bread is viscous, hard, less easily soluble +by the gastric juice, and not so rich in nutritive power. Flour produced +from barley, Indian corn, or rice, is not so readily made into bread; +and the article, when made, is heavy and indigestible. + +1669. On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals +[Footnote: _Cereal,_ a corn-producing plant; from Ceres, the goddess of +agriculture.] used in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, maize, +rye, barley, &c., it will be found to consist of two parts,--the husk, +or exterior covering, which is generally of a dark colour, and the +inner, or albuminous part, which is more or less white. In grinding, +these two portions are separated, and the husk being blown away in the +process of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light brown +powder, consisting principally of starch and gluten. In order to render +it white, it undergoes a process called "bolting." It is passed through +a series of fine sieves, which separate the coarser parts, leaving +behind fine white flour,--the "fine firsts" of the corn-dealer. The +process of bolting, as just described, tends to deprive flour of its +gluten, the coarser and darker portion containing much of that +substance; while the lighter part is peculiarly rich in starch. Bran +contains a large proportion of gluten; hence it will be seen why brown +broad is so much more nutritious than white; in fact, we may lay it down +as a general rule, that the whiter the bread the less nourishment it +contains. Majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days with +white wheaten bread, at the end of which time he died; while another +dog, fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran, lived without +any disturbance of his health. The "bolting" process, then, is rather +injurious than beneficial in its result; and is one of the numerous +instances where fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by. In ancient +times, down to the Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts of +Germany the entire meal is used; and in no part of the world are the +digestive organs of the people in a better condition. In years of +famine, when corn is scarce, the use of bolted flour is most culpable, +for from 18 to 20 per cent, is lost in bran. Brown bread has, of late +years, become very popular; and many physicians have recommended it to +invalids with weak digestions with great success. This rage for white +bread has introduced adulterations of a very serious character, +affecting the health of the whole community. Potatoes are added for this +purpose; but this is a comparatively harmless cheat, only reducing the +nutritive property of the bread; but bone-dust and alum are also put in, +which are far from harmless. + +1670. Bread-making is a very ancient art indeed. The Assyrians, +Egyptians, and Greeks, used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseed +and other spices, was an element; but this was unleavened. Every family +used to prepare the bread for its own consumption, the _trade_ of baking +not having yet taken shape. It is said, that somewhere about the +beginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, the slave of an archon, at Athens, +made leavened bread by accident. He had left some wheaten dough in an +earthen pan, and forgotten it; some days afterwards, he lighted upon it +again, and found it turning sour. His first thought was to throw it +away; but, his master coming up, he mixed this now acescent dough with +some fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread thus produced, by +the introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermentation had begun, was +found delicious by the archon and his friends; and the slave, being +summoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread all over Athens; and +everybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain persons set up as +bread-makers, or bakers. In a short time bread-baking became quite an +art, and "Athenian bread" was quoted all over Greece as the best bread, +just as the honey of Hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey. + +1671. In our own times, and among civilized peoples, bread has become an +article of food of the first necessity; and properly so, for it +constitutes of itself a complete life-sustainer, the gluten, starch, and +sugar, which it contains, representing azotized and hydro-carbonated +nutrients, and combining the sustaining powers of the animal and +vegetable kingdoms in one product. + +1672. WHEATEN BREAD.--The finest, wholesomest, and most savoury bread is +made from wheaten flour. There are, of wheat, three leading qualities,-- +the soft, the medium, and the hard wheat; the last of which yields a +kind of bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat, but is +richer in gluten, and, consequently, more nutritive. + +1673. RYE BREAD.--This comes next to wheaten bread: it is not so rich in +gluten, but is said to keep fresh longer, and to have some laxative +qualities. + +1674. BARLEY BREAD, INDIAN-CORN BREAD, &c.--Bread made from barley, +maize, oats, rice, potatoes, &c. "rises" badly, because the grains in +question contain but little gluten, which makes the bread heavy, close +in texture, and difficult of digestion; in fact, corn-flour has to be +added before panification can take place. In countries where wheat is +scarce and maize abundant, the people make the latter a chief article of +sustenance, when prepared in different forms. + + +BREAD-MAKING. + +1675. PANIFICATION, or bread-making, consists of the following +processes, in the case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty per cent. of +water is added to the flour, with the addition of some leavening matter, +and, preferably, of yeast from malt and hops. All kinds of leavening +matter have, however, been, and are still used in different parts of the +world: in the East Indies, "toddy," which is a liquor that flows from +the wounded cocoa-nut tree; and, in the West Indies, "dunder," or the +refuse of the distillation of rum. The dough then undergoes the +well-known process called _kneading_. The yeast produces fermentation, a +process which may be thus described:--The dough reacting upon the +leavening matter introduced, the starch of the flour is transformed into +saccharine matter, the saccharine matter being afterwards changed into +alcohol and carbonic acid. The dough must be well "bound," and yet allow +the escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany the +fermentation, and which, in their passage, cause the numerous little +holes which are seen in light bread. + +1676. The yeast must be good and fresh, if the bread is to be digestible +and nice. Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, an +acetous fermentation, which flavours the bread and makes it +disagreeable. A poor thin yeast produces an imperfect fermentation, the +result being a heavy unwholesome loaf. + +1677. When the dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time, +and then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves; +after which it is again left to stand, when it once more swells up, and +manifests, for the last time, the symptoms of fermentation. It is then +put into the oven, where the water contained in the dough is partly +evaporated, and the loaves swell up again, while a yellow crust begins +to form upon the surface. When the bread is sufficiently baked, the +bottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the finger, while the +crumb is elastic, and rises again after being pressed down with the +finger. The bread is, in all probability, baked sufficiently if, on +opening the door of the oven, you are met by a cloud of steam which +quickly passes away. + +1678. One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls. +When bread is taken out of the oven, it is full of moisture; the starch +is held together in masses, and the bread, instead of being crusted so +as to expose each grain of starch to the saliva, actually prevents their +digestion by being formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses, +which lie on the stomach like so many bullets. Bread should always be at +least a day old before it is eaten; and, if properly made, and kept in a +_cool dry_ place, ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at the end of +three or four days. Hot rolls, swimming in melted butter, and new bread, +ought to be carefully shunned by everybody who has the slightest respect +for that much-injured individual--the Stomach. + +1679. AERATED BREAD.--It is not unknown to some of our readers that Dr. +Dauglish, of Malvern, has recently patented a process for making bread +"light" without the use of leaven. The ordinary process of bread-making +by fermentation is tedious, and much labour of human hands is requisite +in the kneading, in order that the dough may be thoroughly +interpenetrated with the leaven. The new process impregnates the bread, +by the application of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air. +Different opinions are expressed about the bread; but it is curious to +note, that, as corn is now reaped by machinery, and dough is baked by +machinery, the whole process of bread-making is probably in course of +undergoing changes which will emancipate both the housewife and the +professional baker from a large amount of labour. + +1680. In the production of Aerated Bread, wheaten flour, water, salt, +and carbonic acid gas (generated by proper machinery), are the only +materials employed. We need not inform our readers that carbonic acid +gas is the source of the effervescence, whether in common water coming +from a depth, or in lemonade, or any aerated drink. Its action, in the +new bread, takes the place of fermentation in the old. + +1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a great iron ball, +inside which is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, and doing the +kneading part of the business. Into this globe the flour is dropped till +it is full, and then the common atmospheric air is pumped out, and the +pure gas turned on. The gas is followed by the water, which has been +aerated for the purpose, and then begins the churning or kneading part +of the business. + +1682. Of course, it is not long before we have the dough, and very +"light" and nice it looks. This is caught in tins, and passed on to the +floor of the oven, which is an endless floor, moving slowly through the +fire. Done to a turn, the loaves emerge at the other end of the +apartment,--and the Aerated Bread is made. + +1683. It may be added, that it is a good plan to change one's baker from +time to time, and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that is +eaten. + +1684. MIXED BREADS.--Rye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longer +and slower baking than wheaten bread. It is better when made with leaven +of wheaten flour rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. It should not +be eaten till two days old. It will keep a long time. + +1685. A good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat-flour, and +rice-paste in equal proportions; also by mixing rye, wheat, and barley. +In Norway, it is said that they only bake their barley broad once a +year, such is its "keeping" quality. + +1686. Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour (half with half) makes a +nice bread; but it is not considered very digestible, though it keeps +well. + +1687. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can potatoes; but one-third +potato flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf. + +1688. A very good bread, better than the ordinary sort, and of a +delicious flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the following +recipe:--Take ten parts of wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, one +part of rice-paste; knead together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. +This is, of course, cheaper than wheaten bread. + +1689. Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous to make good bread, +and should therefore not be used immediately, but should be kept dry for +a few weeks, and stirred occasionally, until it becomes dry, and +crumbles easily between the fingers. + +1690. Flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread or +cakes; if at all damp, the preparation is sure to be heavy. Before +mixing it with the other ingredients, it is a good plan to place it for +an hour or two before the fire, until it feels warm and dry. + +1691. Yeast from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other: +it is very bitter, and, on that account, should be well washed, and put +away until the thick mass settles. If it still continues bitter, the +process should be repeated; and, before being used, all the water +floating at the top must be poured off. German yeast is now very much +used, and should be moistened, and thoroughly mixed with the milk or +water with which the bread is to be made. + +1692. The following observations are extracted from a valuable work on +Bread-making, [Footnote: "The English Bread-Book." By Eliza Acton. +London: Longman.] and will be found very useful to our readers:-- + +1693. The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost +cleanliness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the +ingredients used for it; and, in addition to these, there must be +attention and care through the whole process. + +1694. An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, +and to allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most +common causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or +which has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it. + +1695. Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed for +the dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy. + +1696. Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the +dough very hard, and letting it become quite, cold, particularly in +winter. + +1697. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself, +that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has +reached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the +consequence in warm weather, and bad bread in any. The goodness will +also be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of +it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat +required for its due fermentation. + +1698. MILK OR BUTTER.--Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only +injure the flavour of the bread, but, in sultry weather, will often +cause it to be quite uneatable; yet either of them, if fresh and good, +will materially improve its quality. + +1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should be +put into a clean earthen pan, with a cover to it: this pan should be +placed at a little distance from the ground, to allow a current of air +to pass underneath. Some persons prefer keeping bread on clean wooden +shelves, without being covered, that the crust may not soften. Stale +bread may be freshened by warming it through in a gentle oven. Stale +pastry, cakes, &c., may also be improved by this method. + +1700. The utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, are a +kneading-trough or pan, sufficiently large that the dough may be kneaded +freely without throwing the flour over the edges, and also to allow for +its rising; a hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or two strong +spoons. + +1701. Yeast must always be good of its kind, and in a fitting state to +produce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or ale +produces more effect than that of milder kinds; and the fresher the +yeast, the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough. + +1702. As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather +quick, and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without +hardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after the +bread is put in until the dough is set, or has become firm, as the cool +air admitted will have an unfavourable effect on it. + +1703. Brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for baking +bread: these should be heated with wood faggots, and then swept and +mopped out, to cleanse them for the reception of the bread. Iron ovens +are more difficult to manage, being apt to burn the surface of the bread +before the middle is baked. To remedy this, a few clean bricks should be +set at the bottom of the oven, close together, to receive the tins of +bread. In many modern stoves the ovens are so much improved that they +bake admirably; and they can always be brought to the required +temperature, when it is higher than is needed, by leaving the door open +for a time. + + +A FEW HINTS respecting the Making and Baking of CAKES. + +1704. _Eggs_ should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks +separated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, +the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so +cause no waste. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be very +thoroughly whisked; they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick +enough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk. + +1705. _Loaf Sugar_ should be well pounded, and then sifted through a +fine sieve. + +1706. _Currants_ should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, and +then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be left +amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire, to +become thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakes +will be liable to be heavy. + +1707. _Good Butter_ should always be used in the manufacture of cakes; +and if beaten to a cream, it saves much time and labour to warm, but not +melt, it before beating. + +1708. Less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed +with the other ingredients. + +1709. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large +cakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter will not rise. If +the oven is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning or +catching, put a sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paper +that has been printed on, should never be used for this purpose. + +1710. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knife +into the middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the least +sticky, put the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake is +done. + +1711. Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars, and in a dry +place. Those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made without +it. + + +BISCUITS. + +1712. Since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories, +biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome, in, comparatively +speaking, endless variety. Their actual component parts are, perhaps, +known only to the various makers; but there are several kinds of +biscuits which have long been in use, that may here be advantageously +described. + +1713. Biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread, and are, +perhaps, the most wholesome of that class. In cases where fermented +bread does not agree with the human stomach, they may be recommended: in +many instances they are considered lighter, and less liable to create +acidity and flatulence. The name is derived from the French _bis cuit_, +"twice-baked," because, originally, that was the mode of entirely +depriving them of all moisture, to insure their keeping; but, although +that process is no longer employed, the name is retained. The use of +this kind of bread on land is pretty general, and some varieties are +luxuries; but, at sea, biscuits are articles of the first necessity. + +1714. SEA, or SHIP BISCUITS, are made of wheat-flour from which only the +coarsest bran has been separated. The dough is made up as stiff as it +can be worked, and is then formed into shapes, and baked in an oven; +after which, the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven until +perfectly dry, to prevent them from becoming mouldy when stored. + +1715. CAPTAINS' BISCUITS are made in a similar manner, only of fine +flour. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + + +TO MAKE YEAST FOR BREAD. + +1716. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. of +bruised malt, 1/2 pint of yeast. + +_Mode_.--Boil the hops in the water for 20 minutes; let it stand for +about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of bruised malt prepared as for +brewing. Let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm; then put in +not quite 1/2 pint of yeast; keep it warm, and let it work 3 or 4 hours; +then put it into small 1/2-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles are the +best for the purpose), cork them well, and tie them down. The yeast is +now ready for use; it will keep good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle will +be found sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. When required for use, boil 3 +lbs. of potatoes without salt, mash them in the same water in which they +were boiled, and rub them through a colander. Stir in about 1/2 lb. of +flour; then put in the yeast, pour it in the middle of the flour, and +let it stand warm on the hearth all night, and in the morning let it be +quite warm when it is kneaded. The bottles of yeast require very careful +opening, as it is generally exceedingly ripe. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work 3 or 4 +hours. + +_Sufficient._--1/2 pint sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. + + +KIRKLEATHAM YEAST. + +1717. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 lb. of flour, +1/2 pint of yeast. + +_Mode_.--Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes; strain, and mix with +the liquid 1/2 lb. of flour and not quite 1/2 pint of yeast. Bottle it +up, and tie the corks down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes according +to the quantity of bread to be made (about 3 lbs. are sufficient for +about a peck of flour); mash them, add to them 1/2 lb. of flour, and mix +about 1/2 pint of the yeast with them; let this mixture stand all day, +and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to boil the hops and water. + +_Sufficient_.--1/2 pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour, or +rather more. + + +TO MAKE GOOD HOME-MADE BREAD. + +(_Miss Acton's Recipe_.) + +1718. INGREDIENTS.--1 quartern of flour, 1 large tablespoonful of solid +brewer's yeast, or nearly 1 oz. of fresh German yeast, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 +pint of warm milk-and-water. + +[Illustration: COTTAGE LOAF.] + +[Illustration: TIN BREAD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan; then, +with a strong metal or wooden spoon, hollow out the middle; but do not +clear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan, as, in that case, the +sponge (or leaven, as it was formerly termed) would stick to it, which +it ought not to do. Next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer's +yeast which has been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of cold +water, and letting it afterwards stand to settle for a day and night; or +nearly an ounce of German yeast; put it into a large basin, and proceed +to mix it, so that it shall be as smooth as cream, with 3/4 pint of warm +milk-and-water, or with water only; though even a very little milk will +much improve the bread. Pour the yeast into the hole made in the flour, +and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will make a +thick batter, in which there must be no lumps. Strew plenty of flour on +the top; throw a thick clean cloth over, and set it where the air is +warm; but do not place it upon the kitchen fender, for it will become +too much heated there. Look at it from time to time: when it has been +laid for nearly an hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken through +the flour, so that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it is ready +to be made up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong chair, or +dresser, or table, of convenient height; pour into the sponge the +remainder of the warm milk-and-water; stir into it as much of the flour +as you can with the spoon; then wipe it out clean with your fingers, and +lay it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining flour, throw it on the +top of the leaven, and begin, with the knuckles of both hands, to knead +it well. When the flour is nearly all kneaded in, begin to draw the +edges of the dough towards the middle, in order to mix the whole +thoroughly; and when it is free from flour and lumps and crumbs, and +does not stick to the hands when touched, it will be done, and may again +be covered with the cloth, and left to rise a second time. In 3/4 hour +look at it, and should it have swollen very much, and begin to crack, it +will be light enough to bake. Turn it then on to a paste-board or very +clean dresser, and with a large sharp knife divide it in two; make it up +quickly into loaves, and dispatch it to the oven: make one or two +incisions across the tops of the loaves, as they will rise more easily +if this be done. If baked in tins or pans, rub them with a tiny piece of +butter laid on a piece of clean paper, to prevent the dough from +sticking to them. All bread should be turned upside down, or on its +side, as soon as it is drawn from the oven: if this be neglected, the +under part of the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam, +which cannot then escape from them. _To make the dough without setting a +sponge_, merely mix the yeast with the greater part of the warm +milk-and-water, and wet up the whole of the flour at once after a little +salt has been stirred in, proceeding exactly, in every other respect, as +in the directions just given. As the dough will _soften_ in the rising, +it should be made quite firm at first, or it will be too lithe by the +time it is ready for the oven. + +[Illustration: ITALIAN MILLET.] + +_Time_.--To be left to rise an hour the first time, 3/4 hour the second +time; to be baked from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, or baked in one loaf from 1-1/2 +to 2 hours. + + ITALIAN MILLET, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt + and Nubia, where it is called _dhourra_, and is used as human + food, as well as for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on + poor soils, and is extremely productive. It has been introduced + into Italy, where they make a coarse bread from it; and it is + also employed in pastry and puddings: they also use it for + feeding horses and domestic fowls. It is the largest variety, + growing to the height of six feet; but it requires a warm + climate, and will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety, + called Golden Millet, is sold in the grocers' shops, for making + puddings, and is very delicate and wholesome. + +TO MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD. + +1719. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, 1/2 pint +of good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt. + +_Mode_.--Peel and boil the potatoes; beat them to a cream while warm; +then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and add to it +1/2 pint of good yeast, which should have been put in water over-night, +to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with a wooden spoon, +and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour; mix it to the +substance of cream, cover it over closely, and let it remain near the +fire for an hour; then add the 5 pints of water, milk-warm, with 2 oz. +of salt; pour this in, and mix the whole to a nice light dough. Let it +remain for about 2 hours; then make it into 7 loaves, and bake for about +1-1/2 hour in a good oven. When baked, the bread should weigh nearly 20 +lbs. + +_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour. + + THE RED VARIETIES OF WHEAT are generally hardier and more easily + grown than the white sorts, and, although of less value to the + miller, they are fully more profitable to the grower, in + consequence of the better crops which they produce. Another + advantage the red wheats possess is their comparative immunity + from the attacks of mildew and fly. The best English wheat comes + from the counties of Kent and Essex; the qualities under these + heads always bearing a higher price than others, as will be seen + by the periodical lists in the journals. + +RICE BREAD. + +1720. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of rice allow 4 lbs. of wheat flour, +nearly 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 1/4 oz. of salt. _Mode_.--Boil the +rice in water until it is quite tender; pour off the water, and put the +rice, before it is cold, to the flour. Mix these well together with the +yeast, salt, and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smooth +dough; let it rise by the side of the fire, then form it into loaves, +and bake them from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to their size. If the +rice is boiled in milk instead of water, it makes very delicious bread +or cakes. When boiled in this manner, it may be mixed with the flour +without straining the liquid from it. _Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. + + +INDIAN-CORN-FLOUR BREAD. + +1721. INGREDIENTS.--To 4 lbs. of flour allow 2 lbs. of Indian-corn +flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, 1/4 oz. of +salt. _Mode_.--Mix the two flours well together, with the salt; make a +hole in the centre, and stir the yeast up well with 1/2 pint of the warm +water; put this into the middle of the flour, and mix enough of it with +the yeast to make a thin batter; throw a little flour over the surface +of this batter, cover the whole with a thick cloth, and set it to rise +in a warm place. When the batter has nicely risen, work the whole to a +nice smooth dough, adding the water as required; knead it well, and +mould the dough into loaves; let them rise for nearly 1/2 hour, then put +them into a well-heated oven. If made into 2 loaves, they will require +from 1-1/2 to 2 hours baking. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +[Illustration: MAIZE PLANT.] + +[Illustration: EAR OF MAIZE.] + + MAIZE.--Next to wheat and rice, maize is the grain most used in + the nourishment of man. In Asia, Africa, and America, it is the + principal daily food of a large portion of the population, + especially of the colonists. In some of the provinces of France, + too, it is consumed in large quantities. There are eight + varieties of the maize; the most productive is the maize of + Cusco. The flour of maize is yellow, and it contains an oily + matter, which, when fresh, gives it an agreeable flavour and + odour; but the action of the air on it soon develops rancidity. + If carried any distance, it should be stored away in air-tight + vessels. An excellent soup is prepared with meat and + maize-flour. The inhabitants of some countries, where wheat is + scarce, make, with maize and water, or milk and salt, a kind of + biscuit, which is pleasant in taste, but indigestible. Some of + the preparations of maize-flour are very good, and, when + partaken in moderation, suitable food for almost everybody. + +SODA BREAD. + +1722. INGREDIENTS.--To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 1 teaspoonful of +tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of +soda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk. + +_Mode_.--Let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the finest +possible powder; then mix them well with the flour. Dissolve the soda in +the milk, and pour it several times from one basin to another, before +adding it to the flour. Work the whole quickly into a light dough, +divide it into 2 loaves, and put them into a well-heated oven +immediately, and bake for an hour. Sour milk or buttermilk may be used, +but then a little less acid will be needed. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + + POLISH AND POMERANIAN WHEAT are accounted by authorities most + excellent. Large raft-like barges convey this grain down the + rivers, from the interior of the country to the seaports. This + corn is described as being white, hard, and thin-skinned; and it + yields a large quantity of flour, having a small proportion of + bran. + +EXCELLENT ROLLS. + +1723. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1 oz. of butter, 1/4 +pint of milk, 1 large teaspoonful of yeast, a little salt. + +[Illustration: ROLLS.] + +_Mode_.--Warm the butter in the milk, add to it the yeast and salt, and +mix these ingredients well together. Put the flour into a pan, stir in +the above ingredients, and let the dough rise, covered in a warm place. +Knead it well, make it into rolls, let them rise again for a few +minutes, and bake in a quick oven. Richer rolls may be made by adding 1 +or 2 eggs and a larger proportion of butter, and their appearance +improved by brushing the tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk. + +_Time_--1 lb. of flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes. + + +HOT ROLLS. + +1724. This dish, although very unwholesome and indigestible, is +nevertheless a great favourite, and eaten by many persons. As soon as +the rolls come from the baker's, they should be put into the oven, +which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very hot; and +the rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they are quite hot, +divide them lengthwise into three; put some thin flakes of good butter +between the slices, press the rolls together, and put them in the oven +for a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter would oil; take them +out of the oven, spread the butter equally over, divide the rolls in +half, and put them on to a very hot clean dish, and send them instantly +to table. + + +TO MAKE DRY TOAST. + +1725. To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is required; +much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never use new bread +for making any kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and, besides, is very +extravagant. Procure a loaf of household bread about two days old; cut +off as many slices as may be required, not quite 1/4 inch in thickness; +trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put the bread on a toasting-fork, +and hold it before a very clear fire. Move it backwards and forwards +until the bread is nicely coloured; then turn it and toast the other +side, and do not place it so near the fire that it blackens. Dry toast +should be more gradually made than buttered toast, as its great beauty +consists in its crispness, and this cannot be attained unless the +process is slow and the bread is allowed gradually to colour. It should +never be made long before it is wanted, as it soon becomes tough, unless +placed on the fender in front of the fire. As soon as each piece is +ready, it should be put into a rack, or stood upon its edges, and sent +quickly to table. + + +TO MAKE HOT BUTTERED TOAST. + +1726. A loaf of household bread about two days old answers for making +toast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good shape, and +too crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices as may be +required, rather more than 1/4 inch in thickness, and toast them before +a very bright fire, without allowing the bread to blacken, which spoils +the appearance and flavour of all toast. When of a nice colour on both +sides, put it on a hot plate; divide some good butter into small pieces, +place them on the toast, set this before the fire, and when the butter +is just beginning to melt, spread it lightly over the toast. Trim off +the crust and ragged edges, divide each round into 4 pieces, and send +the toast quickly to table. Some persons cut the slices of toast across +from corner to corner, so making the pieces of a three-cornered shape. +Soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces as soon as it +is buttered, and when all are ready, that they should be piled lightly +on the dish they are intended to be served on. He says that by cutting +through 4 or 5 slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed out of the +upper ones, while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid. It is highly +essential to use good butter for making this dish. + + +MUFFINS. + +1727. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of milk allow 1-1/2 oz. of German +yeast, a little salt; flour. + +[Illustration: MUFFINS.] + +_Mode_.--Warm the milk, add to it the yeast, and mix these well +together; put them into a pan, and stir in sufficient flour to make the +whole into a dough of rather a soft consistence; cover it over with a +cloth, and place it in a warm place to rise, and, when light and nicely +risen, divide the dough into pieces, and round them to the proper shape +with the hands; place them, in a layer of flour about two inches thick, +on wooden trays, and let them rise again; when this is effected, they +each will exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then place them carefully on a +hot-plate or stove, and bake them until they are slightly browned, +turning them when they are done on one side. Muffins are not easily +made, and are more generally purchased than manufactured at home. _To +toast them_, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by pulling it +open, to the depth of about an inch, with the fingers. Put it on a +toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire until one side is +nicely browned, but not burnt; turn, and toast it on the other. Do not +toast them too quickly, as, if this is done, the middle of the muffin +will not be warmed through. When done, divide them by pulling them open; +butter them slightly on both sides, put them together again, and cut +them into halves: when sufficient are toasted and buttered, pile them on +a very hot dish, and send them very quickly to table. + +_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to bake them. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 muffin to each person. + + +CRUMPETS. + +[Illustration: CRUMPETS.] + +1728. These are made in the same manner as muffins; only, in making the +mixture, let it be more like batter than dough. Let it rise for about +1/2 hour; pour it into iron rings, which should be ready on a hot-plate; +bake them, and when one side appears done, turn them quickly on the +other. _To toast them_, have ready a very _bright clear_ fire; put the +crumpet on a toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, _not too +close_, until it is nicely brown on one side, but do not allow it to +blacken. Turn it, and brown the other side; then spread it with good +butter, cut it in half, and, when all are done, pile them on a hot dish, +and send them quickly to table. Muffins and crumpets should always be +served on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as expeditiously +as possible. + +_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to bake them. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 crumpets to each person. + + +PLAIN BUNS. + +1729. INGREDIENTS.--To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 6 oz. of moist sugar, +1/2 gill of yeast, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of butter, warm milk. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make a +hole in the centre, and stir in the yeast and milk (which should be +lukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream. +Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warm +place, which will be accomplished in about 1-1/2 hour. Melt the butter, +but do not allow it to oil; stir it into the other ingredients, with +enough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough; then mould it into +buns about the size of an egg; lay them in rows quite 3 inches apart; +set them again in a warm place, until they have risen to double their +size; then put them into a good brisk oven, and just before they are +done, wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20 minutes will be +required to bake them nicely. These buns may be varied by adding a few +currants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the other ingredients; and +the above mixture answers for hot cross buns, by putting in a little +ground allspice; and by pressing a tin mould in the form of a cross in +the centre of the bun. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. each. + +_Sufficient_ to make 18 buns. + + +TO MAKE GOOD PLAIN BUNS. + +1730. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good butter, 1/4 lb. of +sugar, 1 egg, nearly 1/4 pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of +baking-powder, a few drops of essence of lemon. + +_Mode_.--Warm the butter, without oiling it; beat it with a wooden +spoon; stir the flour in gradually with the sugar, and mix these +ingredients well together. Make the milk lukewarm, beat up with it the +yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, and stir these to the flour, +&c. Add the baking-powder, beat the dough well for about 10 minutes, +divide it into 24 pieces, put them into buttered tins or cups, and bake +in a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes. + +_Time_.--20 to 30 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 12 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LIGHT BUNS. + +[Illustration: BUNS.] + +1731. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful of +bicarbonate of soda, 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of loaf +sugar, 1/4 lb. of currants or raisins,--when liked, a few caraway seeds, +1/2 pint of cold new milk, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--Rub the tartaric acid, soda, and flour all together through a +hair sieve; work the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and +caraway seeds, when the flavour of them latter is liked. Mix all these +ingredients well together; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and +pour in the milk, mixed with the egg, which should be well beaten; mix +quickly, and set the dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and bake the +buns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a very good cake, and if +put into a tin, should be baked 1-1/2 hour. The same quantity of flour, +soda, and tartaric acid, with 1/2 pint of milk and a little salt, will +make either bread or teacakes, if wanted quickly. + +_Time_.--20 minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, 1-1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_ to make about 12 buns. + + +VICTORIA BUNS. + +1732. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 egg, 1-1/2 oz. of +ground rice, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of currants, a few thin slices +of candied peel; flour. + +_Mode_.--Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredients +well together; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice, +currants, and candied peel, and as much flour as will make it of such a +consistency that it may be rolled into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to a +buttered tin, and bake them from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They should be put +into the oven immediately, or they will become heavy; and the oven +should be tolerably brisk. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ITALIAN RUSKS. + +1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good rusks +in the following manner. Cut the cake into slices, divide each slice in +two; put them on a baking-sheet, in a slow oven, and when they are of a +nice brown and quite hard, they are done. They should be kept in a +closed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve their crispness. + +[Illustration: PANNICLED MILLET.] + + PANNICLED MILLET.--This is the smallest-seeded of the + corn-plants, being a true grass; but the number of the seeds in + each ear makes up for their size. It grows in sandy soils that + will not do for the cultivation of many other kinds of grain, + and forms the chief sustenance in the arid districts of Arabia, + Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. It is not cultivated in + England, being principally confined to the East. The nations who + make use of it grind it, in the primitive manner, between two + stones, and make it into a diet which, cannot be properly called + bread, but rather a kind of soft thin cake half-baked. When we + take into account that the Arabians are fond of lizards and + locusts as articles of food, their _cuisine_, altogether, is + scarcely a tempting one. + +TO MAKE RUSKS. + +(_Suffolk Recipe_.) + +1734. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, 1/4 +pint of milk, 2 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of yeast. + +[Illustration: RUSKS.] + +_Mode_.--Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking it +round until the latter is melted. Put the flour into a basin with the +sugar, mix these well together, and beat the eggs. Stir them with the +yeast to the milk and butter, and with this liquid work the flour into a +smooth dough. Cover a cloth over the basin, and leave the dough to rise +by the side of the fire; then knead it, and divide it into 12 pieces; +place them in a brisk oven, and bake for about 20 minutes. Take the +rusks out, break them in half, and then set them in the oven to get +crisp on the other side. When cold, they should be put into tin +canisters to keep them dry; and, if intended for the cheese course, the +sifted sugar should be omitted. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to render them crisp +after being divided. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen rusks. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES. + +1735. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar allow 1 +lb. of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little rose-water. + +_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and pound them (a few at a time) in a +mortar to a paste, adding a little rose-water to facilitate the +operation. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix them with +the pounded almonds, stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. When the +cake is sufficiently baked, lay on the almond icing, and put it into the +oven to dry. Before laying this preparation on the cake, great care must +be taken that it is nice and smooth, which is easily accomplished by +well beating the mixture. + + +SUGAR ICING FOR CAKES. + +1736. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of loaf sugar allow the whites of 4 +eggs, 1 oz. of fine starch. + +_Mode_.--Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and gradually sift in the +sugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, and +gradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture well +until the sugar is smooth; then with a spoon or broad knife lay the +icing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a very cool +oven, and the icing allowed to dry and harden, but not to colour. The +icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-juice, or with prepared +cochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon as they are withdrawn from +the oven, it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes are cold. +On very rich cakes, such as wedding, christening cakes, &c., a layer of +almond icing, No. 1735, is usually spread over the top, and over that +the white icing as described. All iced cakes should be kept in a very +dry place. + + +BISCUIT POWDER, generally used for Infants' Food. + +1737. This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also be +prepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven; roll them and +grind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board, until they are reduced +to powder; sift it through a close hair sieve, and it is fit for use. It +should be kept in well-covered tins, and in a dry place. + + +ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS. + +1738. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. +of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; whisk the eggs to a strong froth, +add them to the butter, stir in the flour a little at a time, and beat +the mixture well. Break down all the lumps from the arrowroot, and add +that with the sugar to the other ingredients. Mix all well together, +drop the dough on a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a shilling, and +bake the biscuits about 1/4 hour in a slow oven. + +_Time_.--1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +NICE BREAKFAST CAKES. + +1739. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, +1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1-1/2 +breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--These cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread No. +1722, with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid, +and salt well together, taking care that the two latter ingredients are +reduced to the finest powder, and stir in the sifted sugar, which should +also be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add the eggs, which +should be well whisked, and with this liquid work the flour, &c. into a +light dough. Divide it into small cakes, put them into the oven +immediately, and bake for about 20 minutes. + +_Time_.--20 minutes. + + +COCOA-NUT BISCUITS OR CAKES. + +1740. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 oz. of grated +cocoa-nut. + +_Mode_.--Whisk the eggs until they are very light; add the sugar +gradually; then stir in the cocoa-nut. Roll a tablespoonful of the paste +at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid; place the pyramids on +paper, put the paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in rather a cool +oven until they are just coloured a light brown. + +_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +CRISP BISCUITS. + +1741. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk to +make the whole into a very stiff paste; beat it well, and knead it until +it is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thin; with a round +cutter shape it into small biscuits, and bake them a nice brown in a +slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes. + +_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +DESSERT BISCUITS, which may be flavoured with Ground Ginger, Cinnamon, +&c. &c. + +1742. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted +sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the butter into a basin; warm it, but do not allow it to +oil; then with the hand beat it to a cream. Add the flour by degrees, +then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with the yolks of +the eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When all the +ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from a spoon +on to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake, as they +spread as soon as they begin to get warm. Bake in rather a slow oven +from 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire too much +colour. In making the above quantity, half may be flavoured with ground +ginger and the other half with essence of lemon or currants, to make a +variety. With whatever the preparation is flavoured, so are the biscuits +called; and an endless variety may be made in this manner. + +_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a very slow oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON BISCUITS. + +1743--INGREDIENTS.--1-1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of +fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of +lemon-juice. + +_Mode_.--Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar and +very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughly +mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and the +lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop it +from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakes +will spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake the +cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +MACAROONS. + +1744. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of sifted loaf +sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper. + +[Illustration: MACAROONS.] + +_Mode_.--Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them well with a +little orange-flower water or plain water; then add to them the sifted +sugar and the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stiff +froth, and mix all the ingredients well together. When the paste looks +soft, drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-syringe on to sheets of +wafer-paper; put a strip of almond on the top of each; strew some sugar +over, and bake the macaroons in rather a slow oven, of a light brown +colour when hard and set, they are done, and must not be allowed to get +very brown, as that would spoil their appearance. If the cakes, when +baked, appear heavy, add a little more white of egg, but let this always +be well whisked before it is added to the other ingredients. We have +given a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it almost or quite +as economical to purchase such articles as these at a good +confectioner's. + +_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes, in a slow oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb. + + +RATAFIAS. + +[Illustration: RATAFIAS.] + +1745. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of bitter ones, +3/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortar +with the white of an egg; stir in the sugar, and gradually add the +remaining whites of eggs, taking care that they are very thoroughly +whisked. Drop the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on to +cartridge paper, and bake the cakes from 10 to 12 minutes in rather a +quicker oven than for macaroons. A very small quantity should be dropped +on the paper to form one cake, as, when baked, the ratafias should be +about the size of a large button. + +_Time_.--10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb. + + +RICE BISCUITS OR CAKES. + +1746. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/2 lb. of rice-flour allow 1/4 lb. of +pounded lump sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice-flour and pounded +sugar, and moisten the whole with the eggs, which should be previously +well beaten. Roll out the paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter into +small cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow oven. + +_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to make about 18 cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + GROUND RICE, or rice-flour, is used for making several kinds of + cakes, also for thickening soups, and for mixing with wheaten + flour in producing Manna Kroup. The Americans make rice-bread, + and prepare the flour for it in the following manner:--When the + rice is thoroughly cleansed, the water is drawn off, and the + rice, while damp, bruised in a mortar: it is then dried, and + passed through a hair sieve. + +ROCK BISCUITS. + +1747. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, a +few currants. + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very light, +add the pounded sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs, dredge +in the flour gradually, and add the currants. Mix all well together, and +put the dough, with a fork, on the tins, making it look as rough as +possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; +when they are done, allow them to get cool, and store them away in a tin +canister, in a dry place. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES. + +1748. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, +6 oz. of flour. + +_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, separating the whites from the +yolks; beat the yolks well, mix with them the pounded sugar and grated +lemon-rind, and beat these ingredients together for 1/4 hour. Then +dredge in the flour gradually, and when the whites of the eggs have been +whisked to a solid froth, stir them to the flour, &c.; beat the mixture +well for another 5 minutes, then draw it along in strips upon thick +cartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit, and bake them in +rather a hot oven; but let them be carefully watched, as they are soon +done, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil them. +These biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are called, are used for +making Charlotte russes, and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes. + +_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes, in a quick oven. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. per lb., or 1/2d. each. + + +SEED BISCUITS. + +1749. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of +butter, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, sugar, and +caraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the eggs, +which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, with a round cutter +shape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15 +minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk +or the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 3 dozen biscuits. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS. + +1750. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, about +1/2 pint of skimmed milk. + +_Mode_.--Warm the butter in the milk until the former is dissolved, and +then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste; beat it with a +rolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin; +cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits; prick them well, and +bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the proportion of milk +which we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste; but should it +be found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour must be put in. +These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course. + +_Time_.--6 to 10 minutes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SODA BISCUITS. + +1751. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1/4 +lb. of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin; rub +in the butter, add the sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. +Whisk the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and beat it well, until +everything is well incorporated. Quickly stir in the soda, roll the +paste out until it is about 1/2 inch thick, cut it into small round +cakes with a tin cutter, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in rather a +brisk oven. After the soda is added, great expedition is necessary in +rolling and cutting out the paste, and in putting the biscuits +_immediately_ into the oven, or they will be heavy. + +_Time_.--12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to make about 3 dozen cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +ALMOND CAKE. + +1752. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds, 6 +eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of fine flour, +the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste; separate the whites +from the yolks of the eggs; beat the latter, and add them to the +almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon-rind; add the butter, which +should be beaten to a cream; and when all these ingredients are well +mixed, put in the whites of the eggs, which should be whisked to a stiff +froth. Butter a cake-mould, put in the mixture, and bake in a good oven +from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICH BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE. + +1753. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of the finest flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter, +5 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1/4 oz. of +mace, half 1/4 oz. of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. +of candied citron, 1/2 lb. each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 gill +of wine, 1 gill of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Let the flour be as fine as possible, and well dried and +sifted; the currants washed, picked, and dried before the fire; the +sugar well pounded and sifted; the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded; +the eggs thoroughly whisked, whites and yolks separately; the almonds +pounded with a little orange-flower water, and the candied peel cut in +neat slices. When all these ingredients are prepared, mix them in the +following manner. Begin working the butter with the hand till it becomes +of a cream-like consistency; stir in the sugar, and when the whites of +the eggs are whisked to a solid froth, mix them with the butter and +sugar; next, well beat up the yolks for 10 minutes, and, adding them to +the flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continue beating the whole +together for 1/2 hour or longer, till wanted for the oven. Then mix in +lightly the currants, almonds, and candied peel with the wine and +brandy; and having lined a hoop with buttered paper, fill it with the +mixture, and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven, taking care, +however, not to burn it: to prevent this, the top of it may be covered +with a sheet of paper. To ascertain whether the cake is done, plunge a +clean knife into the middle of it, withdraw it directly, and if the +blade is not sticky, and looks bright, the cake is sufficiently baked. +These cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond icing, and +over that another layer of sugar icing, and afterwards ornamented. In +baking a large cake like this, great attention must be paid to the heat +of the oven; it should not be too fierce, but have a good soaking heat. + +_Time_.--5 to 6 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. per lb. + + +CHRISTMAS CAKE. + +1754. INGREDIENTS.--5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of melted butter, +1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful of moist +sugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger, 1/2 lb. of raisins, 1 +teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. + +_Mode_.--Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not allow +it to oil; put the flour into a basin; add to it the sugar, ginger, and +raisins, which should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When these +dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream, +treacle, and well-whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes. +Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough, and be particular +that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others; put +the cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it in a moderate oven +immediately, and bake it from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. + +_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + + +COMMON CAKE, suitable for sending to Children at School. + +1755. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of butter or clarified +dripping, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/2 lb. of +pounded sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of +fresh yeast. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter lightly into the flour; add all the dry +ingredients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but not +hot; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a light +dough; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of buttered +paper; this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the top of the +tin. Put in the dough; stand it in a warm place to rise for more than an +hour; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If this quantity be +divided in two, they will take from 1-1/2 to 2 hours' baking. + +_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes. + + +ECONOMICAL CAKE. + +[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.] + +1756. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter +or lard, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the +whites of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk. + +_Mode_,--In making many sweet dishes, the whites of eggs are not +required, and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients, make an +excellent cake, with or without currants. Beat the butter to a cream, +well whisk the whites of the eggs, and stir all the ingredients together +but the soda, which must not be added until all is well mixed, and the +cake is ready to be put into the oven. When the mixture has been well +beaten, stir in the soda, put the cake into a buttered mould, and bake +it in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +A NICE USEFUL CAKE. + +1757. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of +sugar 1 lb. of dried flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1 +teacupful of milk, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; wash, pick, and dry the currants; +whisk the eggs; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the peel into neat +slices. When all these are ready, mix the dry ingredients together; then +add the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture well for a few +minutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it for +rather more than 1-1/2 hour. The currants and candied peel may be +omitted, and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them: +made in this manner, the cake will be found very good. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + + +HONEY CAKE. + +1758. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 breakfast-cupful of sugar, 1 breakfast-cupful of +rich sour cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of +carbonate of soda, honey to taste. + +_Mode_.--Mix the sugar and cream together; dredge in the flour, with as +much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely; stir it well, that all +the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed; add the carbonate of soda, and +beat the cake well for another 5 minutes; put it into a buttered tin, +bake it from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, and let it be eaten warm. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +RICH SWEETMEAT GINGERBREAD NUTS. + +1759. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter, 1 lb. +of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied +orange-peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, 1/2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, +1/2 oz. of coriander seeds, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg; flour. + +_Mode_.--Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter, +melted so as not to oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these ingredients +well together, and whilst mixing, add the candied peel, which should be +cut into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway and +coriander seeds, which should be pounded. Having mixed all thoroughly +together, break in an egg, and work the whole up with as much fine flour +as may be necessary to form a paste. Make this into nuts of any size, +put them on a tin plate, and bake in a slow oven from 1/4 to 1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +THICK GINGERBREAD. + +1760. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of +coarse brown sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, 1/2 oz. of +ground allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1/4 pint of warm +milk, 3 eggs. + +[Illustration: GINGERBREAD.] + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, and +allspice; mix these together; warm the butter, and add it, with the +treacle, to the other ingredients. Stir well; make the milk just warm, +dissolve the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the whole into a nice +smooth dough with the eggs, which should be previously well whisked; +pour the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from 3/4 to 1 hour, or +longer, should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before it is done, +brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk, +and put it back in the oven to finish baking. + +_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per square. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SUNDERLAND GINGERBREAD NUTS. + +(_An Excellent Recipe_.) + +1761. INGREDIENTS.--1-3/4 lb. treacle, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of +butter, 2-3/4 lbs. of flour, 1-1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 1-1/2 oz. of +allspice, 1-1/2 oz. of coriander seeds. + +_Mode_.--Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshly +ground; put them into a basin, with the flour and sugar, and mix these +ingredients well together; warm the treacle and butter together; then +with a spoon work it into the flour, &c., until the whole forms a nice +smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of buttered +paper, and bake in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. A +little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an improvement, and a +great authority in culinary matters suggests the addition of a little +cayenne pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be advisable to use this +latter ingredient or not, we leave our readers to decide. + +_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +WHITE GINGERBREAD. + +1762. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of loaf +sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, 1/2 +teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of milk. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, which should be +finely pounded and sifted, and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, and +nutmeg. Mix these well together; make the milk just warm, stir in the +soda, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste; roll it out, cut it +into cakes, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +GOOD HOLIDAY CAKE. + +1763. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2d. worth of Borwick's German baking-powder, 2 +lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2 +lb. of stoned and cut raisins, 1/4 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1/2 lb. of +moist sugar, 3 eggs, 3/4 pint of cold milk. + +_Mode_.--Mix the baking-powder with the flour; then rub in the butter +and lard; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried the raisins +stoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel cut into +neat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, &c., and mix all the +dry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the milk, +and with this liquid moisten the cake; beat it up well, that all may be +very thoroughly mixed; line a cake-tin with buttered paper, put in the +cake, and bake it from 2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours in a good oven. To ascertain +when it is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, and if, on +withdrawing it, the knife looks clean, and not sticky, the cake is done. +To prevent its burning at the top, a piece of clean paper may be put +over whilst the cake is soaking, or being thoroughly cooked in the +middle. A steamer, such as is used for steaming potatoes, makes a very +good cake-tin, if it be lined at the bottom and sides with buttered +paper. + +_Time_.--2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMON CAKE. + +1764. INGREDIENTS.--10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, +3/4 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon, 3/4 lb. of flour. + +[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.] + +_Mode_.--Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs whisk the former +to a stiff froth; add the orange-flower water, the sugar, grated +lemon-rind, and mix these ingredients well together. Then beat the yolks +of the eggs, and add them, with the lemon-juice, to the whites, &c.; +dredge in the flour gradually; keep beating the mixture well; put it +into a buttered mould, and bake the cake about an hour, or rather +longer. The addition of a little butter, beaten to a cream, we think, +would improve this cake. + +_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LUNCHEON CAKE. + +1765. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of +caraway seeds, 1/4 lb. of currants, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of +candied peel, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate +of soda. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine; add the +caraway seeds, currants (which should be nicely washed, picked, and +dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices; mix these well +together, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well whisked. Boil +the milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, the carbonate of soda, which +must be well stirred into it, and, with the milk, mix the other +ingredients. Butter a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it in a +moderate oven from 3/4 to 1 hour. + +_Time_.--1 to 14 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + CARBONATE OF SODA--Soda was called the mineral alkali, because + it was originally dug up out of the ground in Africa and other + countries: this state of carbonate of soda is called _natron._ + But carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion + of marine plants, or such as grow on the sea-shore. Pure + carbonate of soda is employed for making effervescing draughts, + with lemon-juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The chief + constituent of soda, the alkali, has been used in France from + time immemorial in the manufacture of soap and glass, two + chemical productions which employ and keep in circulation an + immense amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda + will give an extraordinary lightness to puff pastes; and, + introduced into the teapot, will extract the full strength of + the tea. But its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate + constitutions, and it is not to be used incautiously in any + preparation. + +A NICE PLAIN CAKE. + +1766. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of Borwick's +baking-powder, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 3 +eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/2 lb. of +currants. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin; stir those +together; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds, and +currants; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together very +thoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin, put in +the cake, and bake it from 11/2 to 2 hours. Let the dripping be quite +clean before using: to insure this, it is a good plan to clarify it. +Beef dripping is better than any other for cakes, &c., as mutton +dripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would be +imparted to the preparation. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A NICE PLAIN CAKE FOR CHILDREN. + +1767. INGREDIENTS.--1 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. +of butter or good beef dripping, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 1/2 grated +nutmeg or 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds. + +_Mode_.--If you are not in the habit of making bread at home, procure +the dough from the baker's, and, as soon as it comes in, put it into a +basin near the fire; cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let the +dough remain a little while to rise. In the mean time, beat the butter +to a cream, and make the milk warm; and when the dough has risen, mix +with it thoroughly all the above ingredients, and knead the cake well +for a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand them +in a warm place, to allow the dough to rise again. When the tins are +three parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from +13/4 to 2 hours. A few currants might be substituted for the caraway +seeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked. + +_Time_.--1-3/4 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, _1s. 2d._ + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +COMMON PLUM CAKE. + +1768. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter or good dripping, 6 +oz. of moist sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of pounded allspice, 2 +tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, 1 pint of new milk. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and +allspice; warm the milk, stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole into a +dough; knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered tins; place them near +the fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise, then bake the cakes +in a good oven from 1 to 11/4 hour. To ascertain when they are done, +plunge a clean knife into the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes out +clean, the cakes are done. + +_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 6 small cakes. + + +A NICE PLUM CAKE. + +1769. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sugar, +1/2 lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 +teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, currants, and sliced +candied peel; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these ingredients +together with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 tablespoonfuls of milk +and add it to the dough, and beat the whole well, until everything is +thoroughly mixed. Put the dough into a buttered tin, and bake the cake +from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +POUND CAKE. + +[Illustration: POUND CAKE.] + +1770. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of butter, 1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of +pounded loaf sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel, +1/2 oz. of citron, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds; when liked, a little +pounded mace. + +_Mode_.--Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, +currants, candied peel, which should be cut into neat slices, and the +almonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and mix all these well +together; whisk the eggs, and let them be thoroughly blended with the +dry ingredients. Beat the cake well for 20 minutes, and put it into a +round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white buttered +paper. Bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, and let the oven be well heated +when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants +will all sink to the bottom of it. To make this preparation light, the +yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and added +separately to the other ingredients. A glass of wine is sometimes added +to the mixture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will be +found quite rich enough without it. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. + +_Sufficient._--The above quantity divided in two will make two +nice-sized cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A PAVINI CAKE. + +1771. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of +raisins stoned and cut into small pieces, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. +of butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, 1/2 +nutmeg grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces; wash, pick, and +dry the currants; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling it; +blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all these +ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together; make the milk +warm, stir in the soda, and with this liquid make the whole into a +paste. Butter a mould, rather more than half fill it with the dough, and +bake the cake in a moderate oven from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or less time +should it be made into 2 cakes. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.] + +RICE CAKE. + +1772. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of +loaf sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of essence of lemon, or the rind of 1 +lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter. + +_Mode_.--Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs; whisk them both +well, and add to the latter the butter beaten to a cream. Stir in the +flour, rice, and lemon (if the rind is used, it must be very finely +minced), and beat the mixture well; then add the whites of the eggs, +beat the cake again for some time, put it into a buttered mould or tin, +and bake it for nearly 1-1/2 hour. It may be flavoured with essence of +almonds, when this is preferred. + +_Time_.--Nearly 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +QUEEN-CAKES. + +1773. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of +pounded loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 +teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon, or almonds to taste. + +_Mode_.--Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour, add the sugar +and currants, and mix the ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, mix +them with the cream and flavouring, and stir these to the flour; add the +carbonate of soda, beat the paste well for 10 minutes, put it into small +buttered pans, and bake the cake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour. + +Grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond +flavouring, which will make the cakes equally nice. + +_Time_. 1/4 to 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SAUCER-CAKE FOR TEA. + +1774. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4 +lb. of pounded white sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied +orange or lemon-peel. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour and _tous-les-mois_ together; add the sugar, the +candied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and the +eggs well whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it into a +buttered cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-plate +answers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake the cake +in a moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, and when cold, put it away in a +covered canister. It will remain good some weeks, even if it be cut into +slices. + +_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +COMMON SEED-CAKE. + +1775. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 6 +oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg. + +_Mode_.--If the dough is sent in from the baker's, put it in a basin +covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with a +wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid; add it, with the other +ingredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is very +thoroughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake for +rather more than 2 hours. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. + +_Average cost_, 8d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +A VERY GOOD SEED-CAKE. + +1776. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 3/4 lb. of sifted sugar, +pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, 3/4 oz. of +caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, +mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients well +together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat the cake +again for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and +bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. This cake would be equally nice made with +currants, and omitting the caraway seeds. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + BREAD-MAKING IN SPAIN.--The bread in the south of Spain is + delicious: it is white as snow, close as cake, and yet very + light; the flavour is most admirable, for the wheat is good and + pure, and the bread well kneaded. The way they make this bread + is as follows:--From large round panniers filled with wheat they + take out a handful at a time, sorting it most carefully and + expeditiously, and throwing every defective grain into another + basket. This done, the wheat is ground between two circular + stones, as it was ground in Egypt 2,000 years ago (see No. 117), + the requisite rotary motion being given by a blindfolded mule, + which paces round and round with untiring patience, a bell being + attached to his neck, which, as long as he is in movement, + tinkles on; and when it stops, he is urged to his duty by the + shout of "_Arre, mula_," from some one within hearing. When + ground, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, the last of + these being so fine that only the pure flour can pass through + it: this is of a pale apricot-colour. The bread is made in the + evening. It is mixed with only sufficient water, with a little + salt in it, to make it into dough: a very small quantity of + leaven, or fermenting mixture is added. The Scripture says, "A + little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;" but in England, to + avoid the trouble of kneading, many put as much leaven or yeast + in one batch of household bread as in Spain would last them a + week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they send every + night from their oven. The dough made, it is put into sacks, and + carried on the donkeys' backs to the oven in the centre of the + village, so as to bake it immediately it is kneaded. On arriving + there, the dough is divided into portions weighing 3 lbs. each. + Two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down + the room; and now a curious sight may be seen. About twenty men + (bakers) come in and range themselves on one side of the tables. + A lump of dough is handed to the nearest, which he commences + kneading and knocking about with all his might for about 3 or 4 + minutes, and then passes it on to his neighbour, who does the + same; and so on successively until all have kneaded it, when it + becomes as soft as new putty, and ready for the oven. Of course, + as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his + neighbour, another is given to him, and so on till the whole + quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them all. The + bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, and + some of them are very small, and they are baked immediately. The + ovens are very large, and not heated by fires _under_ them; but + a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and thyme, + which cover the hills in great profusion, are put in the oven + and ignited. They heat the oven to any extent required; and, as + the bread gets baked, the oven gets gradually colder; so the + bread is never burned. They knead the bread in Spain with such + force, that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the + fingers of the bakers are covered with corns; and it so affects + the chest, that they cannot work more than two hours at a time. + +SNOW-CAKE. + +1777. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4 lb. of white pounded +sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1 +lemon. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; then add the egg, previously well +beaten, and then the other ingredients; if the mixture is not light, add +another egg, and beat for 1/4 hour, until it turns white and light. Line +a flat tin, with raised edges, with a sheet of buttered paper; pour in +the cake, and put it into the oven. It must be rather slow, and the cake +not allowed to brown at all. If the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1-1/4 +hour will be found long enough to bake it. Let it cool a few minutes, +then with a clean sharp knife cut it into small square pieces, which +should be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool before putting +away. This will keep for several weeks. + +_Time_.--1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SNOW-CAKE. + +(_A genuine Scotch Recipe_.) + +1778. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded white sugar, +1/2 lb. of butter, the whites of 6 eggs; flavouring to taste, of essence +of almonds, or vanilla, or lemon. + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and arrowroot +gradually, at the same time beating the mixture. Whisk the whites of the +eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients, and beat well +for 20 minutes. Put in whichever of the above flavourings may be +preferred; pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin and bake it in a +moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/2 hour. + +_Time_.--1 to 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4s. 6d.; with St. +Vincent ditto, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to make a moderate-sized cake. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SCRAP-CAKES. + +1779. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of leaf, or the inside fat of a pig; 1-1/2 +lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 oz. of +candied lemon-peel, ground allspice to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the leaf, or flead, as it is sometimes called, into small +pieces; put it into a large dish, which place in a quick oven; be +careful that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced to +oil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface; and it is of +these that the cakes should be made. Gather all the scraps together, put +them into a basin with the flour, and rub them well together. Add the +currants, sugar, candied peel, cut into thin slices, and the ground +allspice. When all these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with +sufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste; roll it out +thin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven from 15 to +20 minutes. These are very economical and wholesome cakes for children, +and the lard, melted at home, produced from the flead, is generally +better than that you purchase. To prevent the lard from burning, and to +insure its being a good colour, it is better to melt it in a jar placed +in a saucepan of boiling water; by doing it in this manner, there will +be no chance of its discolouring. + +_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. + +_Sufficient_ to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes. + +_Seasonable_ from September to March. + +[Illustration: WHEAT.] + + Wheat is liable to several diseases, which affect the flour made + from it, and render it unfit for good bread. The principal of + these are the blight, mildew, and smut, which are occasioned by + microscopic fungi, which sow themselves and grow upon the stems + and ears, destroying the nutritive principles, and introducing + matter of a deleterious kind. The farmer is at the utmost pains + to keep away these intruders. Wheat, as well as all kinds of + corn, is also very liable to be injured by being stacked before + it is quite dry; in which case it will heat, and become musty in + the ricks. In wet harvests it is sometimes impossible to get it + sufficiently dried, and a great deal of corn is thus often + spoiled. It is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is + made from wheat threshed out before it is stacked; which shows + the importance of studying the best modes of preserving it. + + The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn: + some say it is Egypt, others Tartary; and the learned Bailly, as + well as the traveller Pallas, affirms that it grows + spontaneously in Siberia. Be that as it may, the Phocians + brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had penetrated into + Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar: they + did not know, for a long time, how to make fermented bread. + +SCOTCH SHORTBREAD. + +1780. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded +loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few +strips of candied orange-peel. + +[Illustration: SHORTBREAD.] + +_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour, and +add the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should be +blanched and cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quite +smooth, and divide it into six pieces. Put each cake on a separate piece +of paper, roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch, +and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament with one or two +strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a good oven, and bake +them from 25 to 30 minutes. + +_Time_.--25 to 30 minutes. + +_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 6 cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked, omit them, +and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel. + + +SODA-CAKE. + +1781. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of +currants, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1 +teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar, and +mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs well, stir them to +the flour, &c., with the milk, in which the soda should be previously +dissolved, and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon or beater. +Divide the dough into two pieces, put them into buttered moulds or +cake-tins, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour. The mixture +must be extremely well beaten up, and not allowed to stand after the +soda is added to it, but must be placed in the oven immediately. Great +care must also be taken that the cakes are quite done through, which may +be ascertained by thrusting a knife into the middle of them: if the +blade looks bright when withdrawn, they are done. If the tops acquire +too much colour before the inside is sufficiently baked, cover them over +with a piece of clean white paper, to prevent them from burning. + +_Time_.--1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 small cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SAVOY CAKE. + +1782. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the +weight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds, +or orange-flower water. + +_Mode_.--Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the +whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar, the +grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste; beat them well +together, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth. Put in the +flour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for 1/4 hour, butter a +mould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. This is a +very nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for a supper-table, or cut +into slices and spread with jam, which converts it into sandwiches. + +_Time_.--1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 cake. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +SPONGE-CAKE. + +I. + +[Illustration: SPONGE-CAKE.] + +1783. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 8 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the +weight of 5 in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight of +8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the weight of 5 in good _dry_ flour. +Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former, put +them into a saucepan with the sugar, and let them remain over the fire +until _milk-warm,_ keeping them well stirred. Then put them into a +basin, add the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy, and stir these +well together, dredging in the flour very gradually. Whisk the whites of +the eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them to the flour, &c., and beat +the cake well for 1/4 hour. Put it into a buttered mould strewn with a +little fine sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a quick oven for 1-1/2 +hour. Care must be taken that it is put into the oven immediately, or it +will not be light. The flavouring of this cake may be varied by adding a +few drops of essence of almonds instead of the grated lemon-rind. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 cake. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WHEAT.] + + The Egyptian, or Mummy Wheat, is not grown to any great extent, + owing to its inferior quality; but it is notable for its large + produce, and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and on + small farms, where quantity rather than quality is desired. At + Wix, in Essex, the seed of this wheat has produced, without + artificial assistance, four thousandfold; some of the ears have + had eleven offshoots, and have contained, altogether, eleven + grains in one ear. + +II. + +1784. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, not quite 1/4 pint of water, +5 eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together until they form a thick +syrup; let it cool a little, then pour it to the eggs, which should be +previously well whisked; and after the eggs and syrup are mixed +together, continue beating them for a few minutes. Grate the lemon-rind, +mix the carbonate of soda with the flour, and stir these lightly to the +other ingredients; then add the lemon-juice, and, when the whole is +thoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, and bake in rather a +quick oven for rather more than 1 hour. The remains of sponge or Savoy +cakes answer very well for trifles, light puddings, &c.; and a very +stale one (if not mouldy) makes an excellent tipsy-cake. + +_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1 cake. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE SMALL SPONGE-CAKES. + +1785. INGREDIENTS.--The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of 8 in +pounded loaf sugar; flavouring to taste. + +_Mode_.--Let the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar well pounded and +sifted. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and beat the +latter up with the sugar; then whisk the whites until they become rather +stiff, and mix them with the yolks, but do not stir them more than is +just necessary to mingle the ingredients well together. Dredge in the +flour by degrees, add the flavouring; batter the tins well, pour in the +batter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake them in rather a +quick oven, but do not allow them to take too much colour, as they +should be rather pale. Remove them from the tins before they get cold, +and turn them on their faces, where let them remain until quite cold, +when store them away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glass +bottle. + +_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes in a quick oven. + +_Average cost_, 1d. each. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TEA-CAKES. + +1786. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 lb. of +butter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size of a walnut, +warm milk. + +_Mode_.--Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin mix +with it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard; then beat the egg well, +stir to it the yeast, and add these to the flour with as much warm milk +as will make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well. Let it +rise near the fire, and, when well risen, form it into cakes; place them +on tins, let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them into +the oven, and bake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour in a moderate oven. These are +very nice with a few currants and a little sugar added to the other +ingredients: they should be put in after the butter is rubbed in. These +cakes should be buttered, and eaten hot as soon as baked; but, when +stale, they are very nice split and toasted; or, if dipped in milk, or +even water, and covered with a basin in the oven till hot, they will be +almost equal to new. + +_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour. + +_Average cost_, 10d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 8 tea-cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO TOAST TEA-CAKES. + +[Illustration: TEA-CAKES.] + +1787. Cut each tea-cake into three or four slices, according to its +thickness; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and as +each slice is done, spread it with butter on both sides. When a cake is +toasted, pile the slices one on the top of the other, cut them into +quarters, put them on a very hot plate, and send the cakes immediately +to table. As they are wanted, send them in hot, one or two at a time, +as, if allowed to stand, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin-plate over +a basin of boiling water. + + +A NICE YEAST-CAKE. + +1788. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 pint of +milk, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of good yeast, 3 eggs, 3/4 lb. of currants, +1/2 lb. of white moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel. + +_Mode_.--Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and shake it round +over a fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk to get +very hot. Put the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk and butter, +the yeast, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and form the whole +into a smooth dough. Let it stand in a warm place, covered with a cloth, +to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the currants, sugar, and +candied peel cut into thin slices. When all the ingredients are +thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper, +which should be about six inches higher than the tin; pour in the +mixture, let it stand to rise again for another 1/2 hour, and then bake +the cakes in a brisk oven for about 1-1/2 hour. If the tops of them +become too brown, cover them with paper until they are done through. A +few drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated nutmeg, may be added +when the flavour is liked. + +_Time_.--From 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES. + +1789. Beverages are innumerable in their variety; but the ordinary +beverages drunk in the British isles, may be divided into three +classes:--1. Beverages of the simplest kind not fermented. 2. Beverages, +consisting of water, containing a considerable quantity of carbonic +acid. 3. Beverages composed partly of fermented liquors. Of the first +class may be mentioned,--water, toast-and-water, barley-water, eau +sucre, lait sucre, cheese and milk whey, milk-and-water, lemonade, +orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar-and-water, +raspberry vinegar and water. + +1790. Of the common class of beverages, consisting of water impregnated +with carbonic acid gas, we may name soda-water, single and double, +ordinary effervescing draughts, and ginger-beer. + +1791. The beverages composed partly of fermented liquors, are hot spiced +wines, bishop, egg-flip, egg-hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, and +spirits-and-water. + +1792. We will, however, forthwith treat on the most popular of our +beverages, beginning with the one which makes "the cup that cheers but +not inebriates." + +1793. The beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life. +Previous to the middle of the 17th century it was not used in England, +and it was wholly unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys says, in his +Diary,--"September 25th, 1661.--I sent for a cup of tea (a China drink), +of which I had never drunk before." Two years later it was so rare a +commodity in England, that the English East-India Company bought 2 lbs. +2 oz. of it, as a present for his majesty. In 1666 it was sold in London +for sixty shillings a pound. From that date the consumption has gone on +increasing from 5,000 lbs. to 50,000,000 lbs. + +1794. Linnaeus was induced to think that there were two species of +tea-plant, one of which produced the black, and the other the green +teas; but later observations do not confirm this. When the leaves of +black and green tea are expanded by hot water, and examined by the +botanist, though a difference of character is perceived, yet this is not +sufficient to authorize considering them as distinct species. The +tea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions; in China it is +indigenous. The part of China where the best tea is cultivated, is +called by us the "tea country." The cultivation of the plant requires +great care. It is raised chiefly on the sides of hills; and, in order to +increase the quantity and improve the quality of the leaves, the shrub +is pruned, so as not to exceed the height of from two to three feet, +much in the same manner as the vine is treated in France. They pluck the +leaves, one selecting them according to the kinds of tea required; and, +notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation, each labourer is able +to gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day. When the trees +attain to six or seven years of age, the produce becomes so inferior +that they are removed to make room for a fresh succession, or they are +cut down to allow of numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavour +consist of the youngest leaves; and as these are gathered at four +different periods of the year, the younger the leaves the higher +flavoured the tea, and the scarcer, and consequently the dearer, the +article. + +1795. The various names by which teas are sold in the British market are +corruptions of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different kinds; +but the principal are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, and signify, +respectively, inferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often perfumed +and flavoured with the leaves of different kinds of plants grown on +purpose. Different tea-farms in China produce teas of various qualities, +raised by skilful cultivation on various soils. + +1796. Tea, when chemically analyzed, is found to contain woody fibre, +mucilage, a considerable quantity of the astringent principle, or +tannin, a narcotic principle, which is, perhaps, connected with a +peculiar aroma. The tannin is shown by its striking a black colour with +sulphate of iron, and is the cause of the dark stain which is always +formed when tea is spilt upon buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron. A +constituent called _Theine_ has also been discovered in tea, supposed to +be identical with _Caffeine_, one of the constituents of coffee. Liebig +says, "Theine yields, in certain processes of decomposition, a series of +most remarkable products, which have much analogy with those derived +from uric acid in similar circumstances. The infusion of tea differs +from that of coffee, by containing iron and manganese. We have in tea, +of many kinds, a beverage which contains the active constituents of the +most powerful mineral springs, and, however small the amount of iron may +be which we daily take in this form, it cannot be destitute of influence +on the vital processes." + +1797. Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country, by +the admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of the +sloe, white thorn, ash, elder, and some others, have been employed for +this purpose; such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander, black +currants, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweet-brier, and +cherry-tree. Some of these are harmless, others are to a certain degree +poisonous; as, for example, are the leaves of all the varieties of the +plum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe belongs. Adulteration by means +of these leaves is by no means a new species of fraud; and several acts +of parliament, from the time of George II., have been passed, specifying +severe penalties against those guilty of the offence, which, +notwithstanding numerous convictions, continues to the present time. + +1798. In the purchase of tea, that should be chosen which possesses an +agreeable odour and is as whole as possible, in order that the leaf may +be easily examined. The greatest care should be taken that it has not +been exposed to the air, which destroys its flavour. + +1799. It would be impossible, in the space at our command, to enumerate +the various modes adopted in different countries for "making coffee;" +that is, the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparation +of this delicious beverage for drinking. For performing this operation, +such recipes or methods as we have found most practical will be inserted +in their proper place; but the following facts connected with coffee +will be found highly interesting. + +1800. The introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively of +recent date. We are assured by Bruce that the coffee-tree is a native of +Abyssinia, and it is said to have been cultivated in that country from +time immemorial. + +1801. It appears that coffee was first introduced into England by Daniel +Edwards, a Turkey merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek, understood +the manner of roasting it. This servant, under the patronage of Edwards, +established the first coffee-house in London, in George Yard, Lombard +Street. Coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound, and a duty +was soon afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon, when made into a +beverage. In the course of two centuries, however, this berry, unknown +originally as an article of food, except to some savage tribes on the +confines of Abyssinia, has made its way through the whole of the +civilized world. Mahommedans of all ranks drink coffee twice a day; it +is in universal request in France; and the demand for it throughout the +British isles is daily increasing, the more especially since so much +attention has been given to mechanical contrivances for roasting and +grinding the berry and preparing the beverage. + +1802. Of the various kinds of coffee the Arabian is considered the best. +It is grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha; whence the name +of our Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean than +any other, and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste. The next in +reputation and quality is the Java and Ceylon coffee, and then the +coffees of Bourbon and Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district of +the colony of British Guiana. The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees are +less esteemed. + +1803. A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the +constituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it. +Independently of one of the objects of roasting, namely, that of +destroying its toughness and rendering it easily ground, its tannin and +other principles are rendered partly soluble in water; and it is to the +tannin that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing. An +aromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction, which is not +perceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the greatest +perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of +temperature; but, if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour is +again dissipated, and little remains but a bitter and astringent matter +with carbon. + +1804. The roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety, +and much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation. +The roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has now +become a separate branch of business, and some of the roasters perform +the operation on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffee +loses from 20 to 30 per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powder +suffers much by exposure to the air; but, while raw, it not only does +not lose its flavour for a year or two, but improves by keeping. If a +cup of the best coffee be placed upon a table boiling hot, it will fill +the room with its fragrance; but the coffee, when warmed again after +being cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour. + +1805. To have coffee in perfection, it should be roasted and ground just +before it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than is +wanted for immediate use, or, if it be necessary to grind more, it +should be kept closed from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalations +from other substances, and thus often acquires a bad flavour: brown +sugar placed near it will communicate a disagreeable flavour. It is +stated that the coffee in the West Indies has often been injured by +being laid in rooms near the sugar-works, or where rum is distilled; and +the same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the same +ships with rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags of +pepper, on board a ship from India, spoiled a whole cargo of coffee. + +1806. With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the +decoction, much depends upon the taste of the consumer. The greatest and +most common fault in English coffee is the too small quantity of the +ingredient. Count Rumford says that to make good coffee for drinking +after dinner, a pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted and +ground, weighs only thirteen ounces, serves to make fifty-six full cups, +or a little less than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate +size. + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + + +TO MAKE CHOCOLATE. + +1807. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 oz. of chocolate to each person; to every +oz. allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate into it, and +stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is +dissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well, and serve +directly with white sugar. Chocolate prepared with in a mill, as shown +in the engraving, is made by putting in the scraped chocolate, pouring +over it the boiling milk-and-water, and milling it over the fire until +hot and frothy. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 oz. of cake chocolate to each person. + +[Illustration: MILL.] + + CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.--Both these preparations are made from the + seeds or beans of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies + and South America. The Spanish, and the proper name, is cacao, + not cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the tree + from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded + with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the + produce of the cocoa-tree (_Cocos nucifera_), whereas the tree + from which chocolate is procured is very different (the + _Theobroma cacao_). The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the + aboriginal inhabitants of South America, particularly in Mexico, + where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma. It was + transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish + monarchy in 1520; and it was so highly esteemed by Linnaeus + receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of Theobroma, a + term derived from the Greek, and signifying "_food for gods_." + Chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the + Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered here as a great luxury + when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the + high duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to + the wealthier classes. Before it was subjected to duty, Mr. + Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in + Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin. The + removal of this duty has increased their cultivation. (For + engraving of cocoa-bean, _see_ No. 1816.) + +TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE. + +1808. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/4 lb. of ground coffee allow 1 small +teaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, of +water. + +_Mode_.--Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly +roasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and pour +_slowly_ over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it has all +filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the +simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil; then filter it a second +time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will +remain good for several days. Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are +quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. This essence will +be found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely +early; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and +quickly prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3 +tea-cupfuls of _boiling_ water slowly on the grounds, which, when +filtered through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time there is +essence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on +the ground coffee instead of plain water: by this means a better coffee +will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having made use +of them in this manner; and always cork the bottle well that contains +this preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh +essence. + +_Time_.--To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, and +filtered again. + +_Average cost_, with coffee at 1s. 8d. per lb., 6d. + +_Sufficient'_-Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. + + +TO ROAST COFFEE. + +(_A French Recipe_.) + +1809. It being an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly +superior to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of +great importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful +and interesting to know how they manage these things in France. In +Paris, there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their +coffee,--_La Maison Corcellet_ and _La Maison Royer de Chartres_; and to +obtain this flavour, before roasting they add to every 3 lbs. of coffee +a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered +sugar: it is then roasted in the usual manner. The addition of the +butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry; but it +must be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of the +very best description. + + +TO MAKE COFFEE. + +1810. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 4 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee to +each person; to every oz. of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--To make coffee good, _it should never be boiled_, but the +boiling water merely poured on it, the same as for tea. The coffee +should always be purchased in the berry,--if possible, freshly roasted; +and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use. There +are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the +coffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water on +the powder, and allowing it to filter through. Our illustration shows +one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for making +good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following, +manner:--Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movable +filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put the +movable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on the +end of the centre pipe. Pour into the inverted lid the above proportion +of boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared from +the funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through +the ground coffee by _hydrostatic pressure_, unscrew screw the lid and +cover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, _not through the funnel_, +one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolater, in +order to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will then +be ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear. +The coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good, and there +is but one objection to them,--the coffee runs rather slowly from the +tap. This is of no consequence where there is a small party, but tedious +where there are many persons to provide for. A remedy for this objection +may be suggested; namely, to make the coffee very strong, so that not +more than 1/3 of a cup would be required, as the rest would be filled up +with milk. Making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with the +necessity of using isinglass, white of egg, and various other +preparations to clear it. Coffee should always be served very hot, and, +if possible, in the same vessel in which it is made, as pouring it from +one pot to another cools, and consequently spoils it. Many persons may +think that the proportion of water we have given for each oz. of coffee +is rather small; it is so, and the coffee produced from it will be very +strong; 1/3 of a cup will be found quite sufficient, which should be +filled with nice hot milk, or milk and cream mixed. This is the 'cafe au +lait' for which our neighbours over the Channel are so justly +celebrated. Should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred, +use double the quantity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, put +in more coffee and less milk. + +[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN.] + +_Sufficient_.--For very good coffee, allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, +to each person. + + +A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE. + +1811. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to each +person; to every oz. allow 1 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot +inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the +purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some +boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground +coffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required, +close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove the +bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner prevents the +necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which cools +and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, so +that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, that +none of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffee +thick and muddy. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz., to each person. + +[Illustration: COFFEE.] + + THE COFFEE PLANT grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen + feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, + although more pointed, and not so dry and thick. The blossoms + are white, much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles + of the leaf-stalks. When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by + the coffee-bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red + colour, when ripe resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are + prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days, that the + pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They + are then gradually dried for about three weeks, and put into a + mill to separate the husk from the seed. + +CAFE AU LAIT. + +1812. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion of +good hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quite +sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence No. 1808, +which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait', so much would not be +required. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak watery +coffee so often served at English tables. A little cream mixed with the +milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves the +taste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage. + +_Sufficient_.--6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of +the essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk. + + TEA AND COFFEE.--It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have + lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee; and daily + experience teaches us that, under certain circumstances, they + may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal + functions; but it is an error, certainly, to conclude from this + that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their + effects; and it is a question whether, if we had no tea and no + coffee, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the + means of replacing them. Science, which accuses us of so much in + these respects, will have, in the first place, to ascertain + whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely, + that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means + of acting on the nervous life, from the shore of the Pacific, + where the Indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy + the bliss of intoxication with koko, to the Arctic regions, + where Kamtschatdales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating + beverage from a poisonous mushroom. We think it, on the + contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct + of man, feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified + life of our times, which cannot be satisfied or filled up by + mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable + life the true means of giving to his food the desired and + necessary quality. + +CAFE NOIR. + +1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should be drunk +well sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs, which +may be added or not at pleasure. The coffee should be made very strong, +and served in very small cups, but never mixed with milk or cream. Cafe +noir may be made of the essence of coffee No. 1808, by pouring a +tablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up with boiling water. This +is a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a large +party, but the essence for it must be made very good, and kept well +corked until required for use. + + +TO MAKE TEA. + +1814. There is very little art in making good tea; if the water is +boiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will +almost invariably be good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing a +teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised. Warm the +teapot with boiling water; let it remain for two or three minutes for +the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away. Put in the tea, +pour in from 1/2 to 3/4 pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let it +stand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the pot +with water. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is +actually 'boiling', as the leaves will not open, and the flavour not be +extracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colourless and +tasteless,--in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where there is a very +large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have two teapots +instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot; the tea, +besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been once completed, the +addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength; so, when more is +required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea +made in the usual manner. Economists say that a few grains of carbonate +of soda, added before the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist to +draw out the goodness: if the water is very hard, perhaps it is a good +plan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use this +ingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste if +added in too large a quantity. For mixed tea, the usual proportion is +four spoonfuls of black to one of green; more of the latter when the +flavour is very much liked; but strong green tea is highly pernicious, +and should never be partaken of too freely. + +_Time_.--2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to draw the +strength from the tea. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person, and one over. + + TEA.--The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of + Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system, and to the + natural order of Aurantiaceae in the system of Jussieu. Lately + it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes + the Camellia and some other plants. It commonly grows to the + height of from three to six feet; but it is said, that, in its + wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more. In China + it is cultivated in numerous small plantations. In its general + appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle. + The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the + wild rose, but smaller; and they are succeeded by soft green + capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds. These + capsules are crushed for oil, which is in general use in China. + +[Illustration: TEA.] + +AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM IN TEA OR COFFEE. + +1815. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupful +of tea or coffee. + +_Mode_.--Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup (or +a portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or +coffee very hot. These should be added very gradually, and stirred all +the time, to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourishment, +both these beverages are much improved by this addition. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or +coffee. + + +TO MAKE COCOA. + +1816. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to 1 +breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water. + +[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN.] + +_Mode_.--Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficient +cold milk to make it into a smooth paste; then add equal quantities of +boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all well together. Care must be +taken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely spoil the +flavour of the preparation. The above directions are usually given for +making the prepared cocoa. The rock cocoa, or that bought in a solid +piece, should be scraped, and made in the same manner, taking care to +rub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added. + +_Sufficient_--2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup, or +1/4 oz. of the rock cocoa for the same quantity. + + +COWSLIP WINE. + +1817. INGREDIENTS.--To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs. of lump sugar, +the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of 1 Seville +orange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips. To every 4-1/2 gallons of wine allow 1 +bottle of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/2 hour, carefully +removing all the scum as it rises. Pour this boiling liquor on the +orange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained; when +milk-warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the stalks and +seeds; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers' +yeast. Let it ferment 3 or 4 days; then put all together in a cask with +the brandy, and let it remain for 2 months, when bottle it off for use. + +_Time_.--To be boiled 1/2 hour; to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in the +cask 2 months. + +_Average cost_, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in the +fields, 2s. 9d. per gallon. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in April or May. + + +ELDER WINE. + +1818. INGREDIENTS.--To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck of +elderberries; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. of sugar, 1/2 oz. of +ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. of good Turkey raisins; 1/2 pint of +brandy to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4 +tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast. + +_Mode_.--Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, which +should be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for 24 +hours; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the fruit +to express all the juice from it. Measure the liquor, and to every +gallon allow the above proportion of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar +with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquor the +whole time; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a clean dry +cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallons +of wine. Let it ferment for about a fortnight; then add the brandy, bung +up the cask, and let it stand some months before it is bottled, when it +will be found excellent. A bunch of hops suspended to a string from the +bung, some persons say, will preserve the wine good for several years. +Elder wine is usually mulled, and served with sippets of toasted bread +and a little grated nutmeg. + +_Time_.--To stand covered 24 hours; to be boiled 1 hour. + +_Average cost_, when made at home, 3s. 6d. per gallon. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in September. + +[Illustration: ELDER-BERRIES.] + + ELDER-BERRY WINE.--The elder-berry is well adapted for the + production of wine; its juice contains a considerable portion of + the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its + beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from + it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore + demands an addition of sugar. It is one of the very best of the + genuine old English wines; and a cup of it mulled, just previous + to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a thing to be "run + for," as Cobbett would say: it is not, however, agreeable to + every taste. + +GINGER WINE. + +1819. INGREDIENTS.--To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs. of loaf sugar, 9 +lemons, 12 oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 lbs. of +raisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be well +scoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, _lemon-rinds_, and +bruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and when the +liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as it +must not remain in the copper. When nearly cold, add the yeast, which +must be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all in a dry cask +with the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins. Stir the wine every +day for a fortnight; then add the brandy, stop the cask down by degrees, +and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle. + +_Average cost_, 2s. per gallon. _Sufficient_ to make 9 gallons of wine. + +_Seasonable_.--The best time for making this wine is either in March or +September. + +_Note_.--Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June. + + +GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. + +(_An Excellent Recipe_.) + +1820. INGREDIENTS.--2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water, +12 lbs. of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality. + +_Mode_.--Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tub +with a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; let this stand 24 +hours; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to it; mix it +well, and tun it. These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; and if it +be not quite full, more water must be added. Let the mixture be stirred +from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or four +days, to assist the melting of the sugar; then paste a piece of linen +cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, _but not in +the sun_; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it. The +following spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and the +vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made. This will be +found a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is +sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar. Many years' +experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, when +bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon is +merely nominal, especially to those who reside in the country and grow +their own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to +be purchased. + +_Time_.--To remain in the cask 9 months. + +_Average cost_, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, 1s. per +gallon; when they are grown at home, 6d. per gallon. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made the end of June or the beginning of +July, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful. + + +EFFERVESCING GOOSEBERRY WINE. + +1821. INGREDIENTS.--To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs. of green +gooseberries, 3 lbs. of lump sugar. + +_Mode_.--This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in order +to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in a +mature state. Its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling than +upon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be made +from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe. The fruit +should be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth, and +consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen. Any bruised or +decayed berries, and those that are very small, should be rejected. The +blossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised in +a tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each berry being broken +without crushing the seeds. Pour the water (which should be warm) on the +fruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removed +from the skin and seeds, and cover the whole closely for 24 hours; after +which, strain it through a coarse bag, and press it with as much force +as can be conveniently applied, to extract the whole of the juice and +liquor the fruit may contain. To every 40 or 50 lbs. of fruit one gallon +more of hot water may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order to +obtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed. The +juice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all +of it, and the sugar added to it. Let it be well stirred until the sugar +is dissolved, and place the pan in a warm situation; keep it closely +covered, and let it ferment for a day or two. It must then be drawn off +into clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that arises +to be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining "must," +that should be reserved for that purpose. When the active fermentation +has ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again filled, if +necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days, when the +fermentation is a little more languid (which may be known, by the +hissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and a +spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. About November or December, +on a clear fine day, the wine should he racked from its lees into clean +casks, which may be rinsed with brandy. After a month, it should be +examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, it +must be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of the +wine: 1 oz. will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In March or April, or when +the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled, in +order to insure its being effervescing. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before the +berries ripen. + + +LEMON SYRUP. + +1822. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of +citric acid, 12 drachm of essence of lemon. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, and put it into +a basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid to a +powder, mix the essence of lemon with it, then add these two ingredients +to the syrup; mix well, and bottle for use. Two tablespoonfuls of the +syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be found a +very refreshing summer drink. + +_Sufficient_--2 tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water. + + +LEMON WINE. + +1823. INGREDIENTS.--To 4-1/2 gallons of water allow the pulp of 50 +lemons, the rind of 25, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar,--1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1 +bottle of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Peel and slice the lemons, but use only the rind of 25 of them, +and put them into the cold water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days, squeezing +the lemons well every day; then strain the water off and put it into a +cask with the sugar. Let it work some time, and when it has ceased +working, put in the isinglass. Stop the cask down; in about six months +put in the brandy and bottle the wine off. + +_Seasonable_.--The best time to make this is in January or February, +when lemons are best and cheapest. + + +MALT WINE. + +1824. INGREDIENTS.--5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of +sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of candy, 1 pint +of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well, +and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool; +then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it stand for 3 days, then +put it into a barrel; here it will work or ferment for another three +days or more; then bung up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3 +months. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, and, +in 6 months' time, bottle the wine off. Those who do not brew, may +procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquor +that leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops; tun is +the new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has been +completed. + +_Time_.--To be boiled 10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; to +ferment 3 days; to remain in the cask 2 mouths before the raisins are +added; bottle 6 months after. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in March or October. + + +HOME-MADE NOYEAU. + +1825. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet ditto, 1 lb. +of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1 +tablespoonful of clarified honey, 4 pint of new milk. + +_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the sugar, +which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till quite +cold; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain for 10 +days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper, +bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks down. This will +be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to make about 24 pints of Noyeau. + +_Seasonable_.--May be made at any time. + + +ORANGE BRANDY. + +(_Excellent_.) + +1826. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1 gallon of brandy allow 3/4 pint of +Seville orange-juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--To bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a few +lumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps to the +rest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, strained, the rinds of 6 of +the oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in a +closely-covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day. +When clear, it should be bottled and closely corked for a year; it will +then be ready for use, but will keep any length of time. This is a most +excellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities; or, as the +strength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the other +ingredients, it may be diluted with water. + +_Time_.--To be stirred every day for 3 days. + +_Average cost_, 7s. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts. _Seasonable_.--Make this in March. + + +A VERY SIMPLE AND EASY METHOD OF MAKING A VERY SUPERIOR ORANGE WINE. + +1827. INGREDIENTS.--90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. of lump sugar, water. + +_Mode_.--Break up the sugar into small pieces, and put it into a dry, +sweet 9-gallon cask, placed in a cellar or other storehouse, where it is +intended to be kept. Have ready close to the cask two large pans or +wooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges pared +quite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has been +squeezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of double muslin, and +put it into the cask with the sugar. Then pour about 1-1/2 gallon of +cold spring water on both the peels and pulp; let it stand for 24 hours, +and then strain it into the cask; add more water to the peels and pulp +when this is done, and repeat the same process every day for a week: it +should take about a week to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportion +the quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days, and to stir the +contents of the cask each day. On the ''third' day after the cask is +full,--that is, the 'tenth' day after the commencement of making,--the +cask may be securely bunged down. This is a very simple and easy method, +and the wine made according to it will be pronounced to be most +excellent. There is no troublesome boiling, and all fermentation takes +place in the cask. When the above directions are attended to, the wine +cannot fail to be good. It should be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and will +be fit for use in a twelve month after the time of making. Ginger wine +may be made in precisely the same manner, only, with the 9-gallon cask +for ginger wine, 2 lbs. of the best whole ginger, 'bruised', must be put +with the sugar. It will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in +a muslin bag. + +_Time_.--Altogether, 10 days to make it. + +_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. per gallon. _Sufficient_ for 9 gallons. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in March, and bottle it the following January. + + +RASPBERRY VINEGAR. + +1828. INGREDIENTS.--To every 3 pints of the best vinegar allow 4-1/2 +pints of freshly-gathered raspberries; to each pint of liquor allow 1 +lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful of brandy. + +_Mode_.--Let the raspberries be freshly gathered; pick them from the +stalks, and put 1-1/2 pint of them into a stone jar; pour 3 pints of the +best vinegar over them, and let them remain for 24 hours; then strain +the liquor over another 1-1/2 pint of fresh raspberries. Let them remain +another 24 hours, and the following day repeat the process for the third +time; then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a +jelly-bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar), into a stone jar. Add +to every pint of the liquor 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar; stir them +together, and, when the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar; set it upon +the fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil for an hour, +removing the scum as fast as it rises; add to each pint a glass of +brandy, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink in +cases of fevers and colds: it should be diluted with cold water, +according to the taste or requirement of the patient. + +_Time_.--To be boiled 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. per pint. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July or August, when raspberries are most +plentiful. + + +RHUBARB WINE. + +1829. INGREDIENTS.--To every 5 lbs. of rhubarb pulp allow 1 gallon of +cold spring water; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, +1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1 lemon. + +_Mode_.--Gather the rhubarb about the middle of May; wipe it with a wet +cloth, and, with a mallet, bruise it in a large wooden tub or other +convenient means. When reduced to a pulp, weigh it, and to every 5 lbs. +add 1 gallon of cold spring water; let these remain for 3 days, stirring +3 or 4 times a day; and, on the fourth day, press the pulp through a +hair sieve; put the liquor into a tub, and to every gallon put 3 lbs. of +loaf sugar; stir in the sugar until it is quite dissolved, and add the +lemon-rind; let the liquor remain, and, in 4, 5, or 6 days, the +fermentation will begin to subside, and a crust or head will be formed, +which should be skimmed off, or the liquor drawn from it, when the crust +begins to crack or separate. Put the wine into a cask, and if, after +that, it ferments, rack it off into another cask, and in a fortnight +stop it down. If the wine should have lost any of its original +sweetness, add a little more loaf sugar, taking care that the cask is +full. Bottle it off in February or March, and in the summer it should be +fit to drink. It will improve greatly by keeping; and, should a very +brilliant colour be desired, add a little currant-juice. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this about the middle of May. + + +WELSH NECTAR. + +1830. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 +gallons of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the boiling +water, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, +and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, +stirring it every day; then strain it through a jelly-bag, and bottle it +for present use. + +_Time_.--4 or 5 days. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2 gallons. + + +CLARET-CUP. + +[Illustration: CLARET CUP.] + +1831. INGREDIENTS.--1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda-water, about +1/2 lb. of pounded ice, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1/4 +teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 liqueur-glass of Maraschino, a sprig of +green borage. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a silver cup, regulating the +proportion of ice by the state of the weather: if very warm, a larger +quantity would be necessary. Hand the cup round with a clean napkin +passed through one of the handles, that the edge of the cup may be wiped +after each guest has partaken of the contents thereof. + +_Seasonable_ in summer. + + + CLARETS.--All those wines called in England clarets are the + produce of the country round Bordeaux, or the Bordelais; but it + is remarkable that there is no pure wine in France known by the + name of claret, which is a corruption of _clairet_, a term that + is applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine. Round + Bordeaux are produced a number of wines of the first quality, + which pass under the name simply of _vins de Bordeaux_, or have + the designation of the particular district where they are made; + as Lafitte, Latour, &c. The clarets brought to the English + market are frequently prepared for it by the wine-growers by + mixing together several Bordeaux wines, or by adding to them a + portion of some other wines; but in France the pure wines are + carefully preserved distinct. The genuine wines of Bordeaux are + of great variety, that part being one of the most distinguished + in France; and the principal vineyards are those of Medoc, + Palus, Graves, and Blanche, the product of each having + characters considerably different. + +CHAMPAGNE-CUP. + +1832. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of +soda-water, 1 liqueur-glass of brandy or Curacoa, 2 tablespoonfuls of +powdered sugar, 1 lb. of pounded ice, a sprig of green borage. + +_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a silver cup; stir them together, +and serve the same as claret-cup No. 1831. Should the above proportion +of sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes, increase the +quantity. When borage is not easily obtainable, substitute for it a few +slices of cucumber-rind. + +_Seasonable_.--Suitable for pic-nics, balls, weddings, and other festive +occasions. + + CHAMPAGNE.--This, the most celebrated of French wines, is the + produce chiefly of the province of that name, and is generally + understood in England to be a brisk, effervescing, or sparkling + white wine, of a very fine flavour; but this is only one of the + varieties of this class. There is both red and white champagne, + and each of these may be either still or brisk. There are the + sparkling wines (mousseux), and the still wines (non-mousseux). + The brisk are in general the most highly esteemed, or, at least, + are the most popular in this country, on account of their + delicate flavour and the agreeable pungency which they derive + from the carbonic acid they contain, and to which they owe their + briskness. + +GINGER BEER. + +1833. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of bruised +ginger, 1 oz. of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 3 +gallons of boiling water, 2 large tablespoonfuls of thick and fresh +brewer's yeast. + +_Mode_.--Peel the lemons, squeeze the juice, strain it, and put the peel +and juice into a large earthen pan, with the bruised ginger, cream of +tartar, and loaf sugar. Pour over these ingredients 3 gallons of boiling +water; let it stand until just warm, when add the yeast, which should be +thick and perfectly fresh. Stir the contents of the pan well, and let +them remain near the fire all night, covering the pan over with a cloth. +The next day skim off the yeast, and pour the liquor carefully into +another vessel, leaving the sediment; then bottle immediately, and tie +the corks down, and in 3 days the ginger beer will be fit for use. For +some tastes, the above proportion of sugar may be found rather too +large, when it may be diminished; but the beer will not keep so long +good. + +_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.; or 1/2d. per bottle. + +_Sufficient_ to fill 4 dozen ginger-beer bottles. + +_Seasonable_.--This should be made during the summer months. + + +LEMONADE. + +1834. INGREDIENTS--The rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or 4 small +ones, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on 2 of the lemons until they +have imbibed all the oil from them, and put it with the remainder of the +sugar into a jug; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), and pour over the +whole a quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, strain the +lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and, when cool, it +will be ready for use. The lemonade will be much improved by having the +white of an egg beaten up in it; a little sherry mixed with it, also, +makes this beverage much nicer. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per quart. + + LEMONADE--"There is a current opinion among women" says Brillat + Savarin "which every year causes the death of many young + women,--that acids, especially vinegar, are preventives of + obesity. Beyond all doubt, acids have the effect of destroying + obesity; but they also destroy health and freshness. Lemonade + is, of all acids, the most harmless; but few stomachs can resist + it long. I knew, in 1776, at Dijon, a young lady of great + beauty, to whom I was attached by bonds of friendship, great, + almost as those of love. One day, when she had for some time + gradually grown pale and thin (previously she had a slight + embonpoint), she told me in confidence, that as her young + friends had ridiculed her for being fat, she had, to counteract + the tendency, been in the habit every day of drinking a large + glass of vinaigre. She died at eighteen years of age, from the + effects of these potions." + +TO MAKE NEGUS. + +1835. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of boiling +water, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--As this beverage is more usually drunk at children's parties +than at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for the +purpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine into +a jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to 1/4 lb.) on the lemon-rind +until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the +juice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port wine, +with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug, +and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use. +Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine, but is +more usually made of port than of any other beverage. + +_Sufficient_--Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in +proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children. + + +A PLEASANT DRINK FOR WARM WEATHER. + +1836. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1-1/2 pint of good ale allow 1 bottle of +ginger beer. _Mode_.--For this beverage the ginger beer must be in an +effervescing state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mix +them together, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing and +wholesome, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does not +deteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when taken +fresh. + + +FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT. + +1837. INGREDIENTS.--The juice of 1 lemon, a tumbler-ful of cold water, +pounded sugar to taste, 4 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. + +_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain, and add it to the +water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When +well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the mixture is +in an effervescing state. + + +TO MULL WINE. + +1838. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of wine allow 1 large cupful of water, +sugar and spice to taste. + +_Mode_.--In making preparations like the above, it is very difficult to +give the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice, as what +quantity might suit one person would be to another quite distasteful. +Boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted, then add the +wine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling-point, when serve +with strips of crisp dry toast, or with biscuits. The spices usually +used for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or mace. +Any kind of wine may be mulled, but port and claret are those usually +selected for the purpose; and the latter requires a very large +proportion of sugar. The vessel that the wine is boiled in must be +delicately clean, and should be kept exclusively for the purpose. Small +tin warmers may be purchased for a trifle, which are more suitable than +saucepans, as, if the latter are not scrupulously clean, they will spoil +the wine, by imparting to it a very disagreeable flavour. These warmers +should be used for no other purposes. + + +TO MAKE HOT PUNCH. + +1839. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of rum, 1/2 pint of brandy, 1/4 lb. of +sugar, 1 large lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling +water. + +[Illustration: PUNCH-BOWL AND LADLE.] + +_Mode_.--Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the +yellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punchbowl; add the +lemon-juice (free from pips), and mix these two ingredients well +together. Pour over them the boiling water, stir well together, add the +rum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch will be ready to +serve. It is very important in making good punch that all the +ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and, to insure success, the +processes of mixing must be diligently attended to. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow a quart for 4 persons; but this information must be +taken _cum grano salis_; for the capacities of persons for this kind of +beverage are generally supposed to vary considerably. + + PUNCH is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine, + hot water, the acid juice of fruits, and sugar. It is considered + to be very intoxicating; but this is probably because the + spirit, being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the + sugar, its strength does not appear to the taste so great as it + really is. Punch, which was almost universally drunk among the + middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has almost + disappeared from our domestic tables, being superseded by wine. + There are many different varieties of punch. It is sometimes + kept cold in bottles, and makes a most agreeable summer drink. + In Scotland, instead of the Madeira or sherry generally used in + its manufacture, whiskey is substituted, and then its insidious + properties are more than usually felt. Where fresh lemons cannot + be had for punch or similar beverages, crystallized citric acid + and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the + same thing. In the composition of "Regent's punch," champagne, + brandy, and _veritable Martinique_ are required; "Norfolk punch" + requires Seville oranges; "Milk punch" may be extemporized by + adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it + through a jelly-bag. Then there are "Wine punch," "Tea punch," + and "French punch," made with lemons, spirits, and wine, in + fantastic proportions. But of all the compounds of these + materials, perhaps, for a _summer_ drink, the North-American + "mint julep" is the most inviting. Captain Marryat gives the + following recipe for its preparation:--"Put into a tumbler about + a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint; upon them put a + spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and + common brandy, so as to fill up one third, or, perhaps, a little + less; then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler. + Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh + pineapple; and the tumbler itself is very often encrusted + outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink." + The Virginians, say Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having + invented this superb compound; but, from a passage in the + "Comus" of Milton, he claims it for his own country. + +WHISKEY CORDIAL. + +1840. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of ripe white currants, the rind of 2 lemons, +1/4 oz. of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. of lump sugar. + +_Mode_.--Strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a large jug; +add the lemon-rind, ginger, and whiskey; cover the jug closely, and let +it remain covered for 24 hours. Strain through a hair sieve, add the +lump sugar, and let it stand 12 hours longer; then bottle, and cork +well. + +_Time_.--To stand 24 hours before being strained; 12 hours after the +sugar is added. + +_Seasonable_.--Make this in July. + +[Illustration] + + + + +INVALID COOKERY. + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + + +A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN COOKING FOR INVALIDS. + +1841. LET all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids' +cookery be delicately and 'scrupulously clean;' if this is not the case, +a disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation, which flavour +may disgust, and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshment +when brought to him or her. + +1842. For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they +seldom require much at a time; and it is desirable that variety be +provided for them. + +1843. Always have something in readiness; a little beef tea, nicely made +and nicely skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c. &c., that it may be +administered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it. If obliged to +wait a long time, the patient loses the desire to eat, and often turns +against the food when brought to him or her. + +1844. In sending dishes or preparations up to invalids, let everything +look as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly over +the tray; let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c., be very clean +and bright. Gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than when +served in a basin or cup and saucer. + +1845. As milk is an important article of food for the sick, in warm +weather let it be kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. Many other +delicacies may also be preserved good in the same manner for some little +time. + +1846. If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, never send them up +undercooked, or half raw; and let a small quantity only be temptingly +arranged on a dish. This rule will apply to every preparation, as an +invalid is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate pieces +are served to him. + +1847. Never leave food about a sick room; if the patient cannot eat it +when brought to him, take it away, and bring it to him in an hour or +two's time. Miss Nightingale says, "To leave the patient's untasted food +by his side, from meal to meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the +interval, is simply to prevent him from taking any food at all." She +says, "I have known patients literally incapacitated from taking one +article of food after another by this piece of ignorance. Let the food +come at the right time, and be taken away, eaten or uneaten, at the +right time, but never let a patient have 'something always standing' by +him, if you don't wish to disgust him of everything." + +1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the _smallest particle_ of fat +or grease on the surface. It is better, after making either of these, to +allow them to get perfectly cold, when _all the fat_ may be easily +removed; then warm up as much as may be required. Two or three pieces of +clean whity-brown paper laid on the broth will absorb any greasy +particles that may be floating at the top, as the grease will cling to +the paper. + +1849. Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves' feet or head, game, fish +(simply dressed), and simple puddings, are all light food, and easily +digested. Of course, these things are only partaken of, supposing the +patient is recovering. + +1850. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, and broiled to a turn, is a +dish to be recommended for invalids; but it must not be served _with all +the fat_ at the end, nor must it be too thickly cut. Let it be cooked +over a fire free from smoke, and sent up with the gravy in it, between +two very hot plates. Nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than +_smoked_ food. + +1851. In making toast-and-water, never blacken the bread, but toast it +only a nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water to make until the moment +it is required, as it cannot then be properly prepared,--at least, the +patient will be obliged to drink it warm, which is anything but +agreeable. + +1852. In boiling eggs for invalids, let the white be just set; if boiled +hard, they will be likely to disagree with the patient. + +1853. In Miss Nightingale's admirable "Notes on Nursing," a book that no +mother or nurse should be without, she says,--"You cannot be too careful +as to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put before a patient +milk that is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that is bad, or +vegetables underdone." Yet often, she says, she has seen these things +brought in to the sick, in a state perfectly perceptible to every nose +or eye except the nurse's. It is here that the clever nurse +appears,--she will not bring in the peccant article; but, not to +disappoint the patient, she will whip up something else in a few +minutes. Remember, that sick cookery should half do the work of your +poor patient's weak digestion. + +1854. She goes on to caution nurses, by saying,--"Take care not to spill +into your patient's saucer; in other words, take care that the outside +bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time he +lifts his cup to his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or else +to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow, +or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a difference +this minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even to +his willingness for food." + + + + +RECIPES. + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + + +TO MAKE ARROWROOT. + +1855. INGREDIENTS.--Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoonfuls of +cold water, 1/2 pint of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water, then +pour on it the _boiling_ water, _stirring_ all the time. The water must +be _boiling_ at the time it is poured on the mixture, or it will not +thicken; if mixed with hot water only, it must be put into a clean +saucepan, and boiled until it thickens; but this is more trouble, and +quite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowroot +into a tumbler, sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with grated +nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3 +tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavourless +and insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it +palatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer, but +is not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner, with 3 +tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on it, and +well stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be added, but +merely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel. + +_Time_.--If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. per +pint. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of arrowroot. + + MISS NIGHTINGALE says, in her "Notes on Nursing," that arrowroot + is a grand dependence of the nurse. As a vehicle for wine, and + as a restorative quickly prepared, it is all very well, but it + is nothing but starch and water; flour is both more nutritive + and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be + used. + +BARLEY GRUEL. + +1856. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of Scotch or pearl barley, 1/2 pint of port +wine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and 1/2 pint of water, sugar to +taste. + +_Mode_.--After well washing the barley, boil it in 1/2 pint of water for +1/4 hour; then pour this water away; put to the barley the quart of +fresh boiling water, and let it boil until the liquid is reduced to +half; then strain it off. Add the wine, sugar, and lemon-peel; simmer +for 5 minutes, and put it away in a clean jug. It can be warmed from +time to time, as required. + +_Time_.--To be boiled until reduced to half. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. + +_Sufficient_ with the wine to make 1-1/2 pint of gruel. + + +TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER. + +1857. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of pearl barley, 2 quarts of boiling water, 1 +pint of cold water. + +_Mode_.--Wash the barley in cold water; put it into a saucepan with the +above proportion of cold water, and when it has boiled for about 1/4 +hour, strain off the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling water. +Boil it until the liquid is reduced one half; strain it, and it will be +ready for use. It may be flavoured with lemon-peel, after being +sweetened, or a small piece may be simmered with the barley. When the +invalid may take it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drink in +illness a very nice flavour. + +_Time_.--To boil until the liquid is reduced one half. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1 quart of barley-water. + + +TO MAKE BEEF TEA. + +1858. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water, 1 +saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice +fleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and put +it into a clean saucepan. Add the water _cold_ to it; put it on the +fire, and bring it to the boiling-point; then skim well. Put in the salt +when the water boils, and _simmer_ the beef tea _gently_ from 1/2 to 3/4 +hour, removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain the +tea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted for +use, remove every particle of fat from the top; warm up as much as may +be required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This preparation +is simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids to whom +flavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the patient is very +low, use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water. +Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatable +manner, it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the next +recipe, which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea. Beef tea +is always better when made the day before it is wanted, and then warmed +up. It is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin, and to +place this basin in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm, +it is ready to serve. + +_Time_.--1/4 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of meat for a pint of good beef tea. + + MISS NIGHTINGALE says, one of the most common errors among + nurses, with respect to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea + is the most nutritive of all article. She says, "Just try and + boil down a lb. of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea, + and see what is left of your beef: you will find that there is + barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to 1/4 pint of water + in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality + in it,--we do not know what,--as there is in tea; but it maybe + safely given in almost any inflammatory disease, and is as + little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent, + where much nourishment is required." + +SAVOURY BEEF TEA. + +(_Soyer's Recipe_.) + +1859. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove, 2 +button onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of +water. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into very small dice; put it into a stewpan with +the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat round over the fire +for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy; then add the water, +and let it simmer gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, skimming off every +particle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by in +a cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is done by +merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot be +objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming. + +_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per pint. +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea. + +_Note_.--The meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, and +pounded, with spices, &c., for potting. It makes a very nice breakfast +dish. + + DR. CHRISTISON says that "every one will be struck with the + readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take + diluted meat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when they refuse all + other kinds of food." This is particularly remarkable in case of + gastric fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides + beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has been taken for weeks, or + even months; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely 1/4 + oz. of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he + asks, "What is its mode of action? Not simple nutriment; 1/4 oz. + of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily + wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances." Possibly, he + says, it belongs to a new denomination of remedies. + +BAKED BEEF TEA. + +1860. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of fleshy beef, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1/4 +saltspoonful of salt. + +_Mode_.--Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off all +the fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion of +water and salt; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hot +oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in the +daytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remain +till the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained, +and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured with +an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c., when the stomach is +sufficiently strong to take those. + +_Time_.--3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night. + +_Average cost_, 6d. per pint. + +_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea. + + +BAKED OR STEWED CALF'S FOOT. + +1861. INGREDIENTS.--1 calf's foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 +blade of mace, the rind of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in the +milk-and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhance +the flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, if +approved; 1/2 a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, is +also a great improvement to this dish. + +_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +CALF'S-FOOT BROTH. + +1862. INGREDIENTS.--1 calf's foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump of +sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size of +a nut. + +_Mode_.--Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very gently, +until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it rise to +the surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off every +particle of fat. Warm up about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter, +sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg; take it off the fire +for a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep stirring +over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil +again after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth will be +spoiled. + +_Time_.--To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half. + +_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/4 pint of broth. + +_Seasonable_ from March to October. + + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +1863. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one; 1 +quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of sweet +herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns. + +_Mode_.--An old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into very +good broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be put +in the broth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some other +manner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingredients, and +simmer gently for 1-1/2 hour, carefully skimming the broth well. When +done, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted; then take all the +fat off the top, warm up as much as may be required, and serve. This +broth is, of course, only for those invalids whose stomachs are strong +enough to digest it, with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may be made in +the same manner as beef tea, with water and salt only; but the +preparation will be but tasteless and insipid. When the invalid cannot +digest this chicken broth with the flavouring, we would recommend plain +beef tea in preference to plain chicken tea, which it would be without +the addition of herbs, onions, &c. + +_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. + +_Sufficient_ to make rather more than 1 pint of broth. + + +NUTRITIOUS COFFEE. + +1864. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk. + +_Mode_.--Let the coffee be freshly ground; put it into a saucepan, with +the milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is put +in, and boil both together for 3 minutes; clear it by pouring some of it +into a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob for a few +minutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still more +nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into the +coffee-cup. + +_Time_.--5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee. + + Our great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that "a great deal too + much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too + much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see + the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for + their 'tea,' you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is + about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as + a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee, + impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, + because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore + her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as + much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that + there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the + English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can + take nothing else, and he often can't take anything else, if he + has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a + greater impairer of the digestion. In making coffee, it is + absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and grind it at + home; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain + amount of chicory, at least. This is not a question of the + taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory; it is, that chicory + has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee, + and, therefore, you may as well not give it." + +THE INVALID'S CUTLET. + +1865. INGREDIENTS.--1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2 +teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to +taste. + +_Mode_.--Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton; +take off all the fat; put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; +stew _very gently_ indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off every +particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. The +celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat, +and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient, or the +dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet +will be hard. + +_Time_.--2 hours' very gentle stewing. _Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +EEL BROTH. + +1866. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs, +including parsley; 1/2 onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2 +cloves, salt and pepper to taste. + +_Mode_.--After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into small +pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; simmer +gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing the +scum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve; put it by in a cool +place, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up as +much as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. This is a +very nutritious broth, and easy of digestion. + +_Time_.--To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half. + +_Average cost_, 6d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/2 pint of broth. + +_Seasonable_ from June to March. + + +EGG WINE. + +1867. INGREDIENTS.--1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and 1/2 glass of cold water, +1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. + +_Mode_.--Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water; +make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling; pour it on the egg, +stirring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, +and a little grated nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, set it +on a gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but +_do not allow them to boil_. Serve in a glass with sippets of toasted +bread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixture +will be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink. + +_Sufficient_ for 1 person. + + +TO MAKE GRUEL. + +1868. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of Robinson's patent groats, 2 +tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a +basin; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Put +it into a very clean saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping it +well stirred; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may be flavoured with a +small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a little +grated nutmeg may be put in; but in these matters the taste of the +patient should be consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve. When +wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make +this preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same quantity of +spirits is sometimes added instead of wine. + +_Time_.--10 minutes. + +_Sufficient_ to make a pint of gruel. + + +INVALID'S JELLY. + +1869. INGREDIENTS.--12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of +sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. +of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown. + +_Mode_.--Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrub +them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into a +saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours. +Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eaten +either warmed up or cold as a jelly. + +_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. + +_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + + +LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS. + +1870. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling +water. + +_Mode_.--Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or +3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outside +pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump +sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in +2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured +off from the sediment. + +_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1 pint of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +NOURISHING LEMONADE. + +1871. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of boiling water, the juice of 4 lemons, +the rinds of 2, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf sugar. + +_Mode_.--Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with the +sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it; add +the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and also +strained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable, +the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substituted +for them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumps +of the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow is +absorbed. + +_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour to make it. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH. + +1872. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1 +onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnip, 1/2 pints of water, pepper and +salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Put the mutton into a stewpan; pour over the water cold and add +the other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully, cover the +pan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour; strain it, let +it cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm up as much as +may be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to take it, a +teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Pearl +barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth, and should be +boiled as long as the other ingredients. When either of these is added, +the broth must not be strained, but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plain +mutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton, +water, and salt together, straining it, letting the broth cool, skimming +all the fat off, and warming up as much as is required. This preparation +would be very tasteless and insipid, but likely to agree with very +delicate stomachs, whereas the least addition of other ingredients would +have the contrary effect. + +_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, _7d._ + +_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of broth. + +_Seasonable_ at any time. + +_Note_.--Veal broth may be made in the same manner; the knuckle of a leg +or shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose. It is very good +with the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a few +shank-bones. + + +MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE. + +1873. INGREDIENTS.--1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water, +a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with the +bones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover the +saucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, and +continue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during the +process; strain the broth into a basin; if there should be any fat left +on the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top: +the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free the +preparation from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than +broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top; to avoid this, +it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can then +be so easily removed. + +_Time_.--20 minutes after the water boils. _Average cost_, 5d. + +_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of broth. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +STEWED RABBITS IN MILK. + +1874. INGREDIENTS.--2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown; 1-1/2 +pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little salt +and cayenne. + +_Mode_.--Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the milk, +and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the rabbits into +joints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients, +and simmer them _very gently_ until quite tender. Stir the contents from +time to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2 +hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish. + +_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. + +_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 meals. _Seasonable_ from September to February. + + +RICE-MILK. + +1875. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar to +taste; when liked, a little grated nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk, and +simmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to time to +prevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a little grated nutmeg, +and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children; +it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little finely-minced +suet may be boiled with it, which renders it more strengthening and more +wholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni, may all be +dressed in the same manner. + +_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. + + +TO MAKE TOAST-AND-WATER. + +1876. INGREDIENTS.--A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is better +than anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on every +side, but _do not allow it to burn or blacken_. Put it into a jug, pour +the boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain until +cold. When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water should +always be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to get +cold: if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedingly +disagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is +wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just cover +it with the boiling water; when this is cool, cold water may be added in +the proportion required,--the toast-and-water strained; it will then be +ready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than by the above +method. + + +TOAST SANDWICHES. + +1877. INGREDIENTS.--Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter, +pepper and salt to taste. + +_Mode_.--Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin +bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper +and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, or +very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these forms +will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid. + + +1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the +previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which +it would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, +light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple +puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be +partaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in preceding +chapters. + + + + +DINNERS AND DINING. + + +CHAPTER XL. + + +1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the +inferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said that +he is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. A +Croat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, "When, in campaign, we feel +hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder +it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, +and then eat it." Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been +known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it by +carrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some races +of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a +_dinner_ at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bone +half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native of +Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay. +Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy +in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, +as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows +how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both +the will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms +and graces, the more material conditions of human existence; and +wherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble. + +1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of +considerable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index of +human, ingenuity and resource. "Their table," says Lord Byron, in +describing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman +Abbey,-- + + "Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts + To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts. + I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts, + Albeit all human history attests + That happiness for man--the hungry sinner!-- + Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner." + +And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the +results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the +modifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the +primal instincts:-- + + "The mind is lost in mighty contemplation + Of intellect expended on two courses; + And indigestion's grand multiplication + Requires arithmetic beyond my forces. + Who would suppose, from Adam's simple ration, + That cookery could have call'd forth such resources, + As form a science and a nomenclature + From out the commonest demands of nature?" + +And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between the +Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up a +great dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Gray +giving "a little dinner" to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous +"roly-poly puddings" of hers),--what a gulf it is! + +1881. That Adam's "ration," however, was "simple," is a matter on which +we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that +memorable visit to Paradise,--which we are expressly told by Milton he +did exactly at dinner-time,--Eve seems to have prepared "a little +dinner" not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creams +and perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on +these points:-- + + "And Eve within, due at her home prepared + For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please + True appetite, and not disrelish thirst + Of nectarous draughts between.... + .... With dispatchful looks in haste + She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent, + What choice to choose for delicacy best, + What order so contrived as not to mix + Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring + Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change-- + * * * * * + "She _tempers dulcet creams_.... + .... _then strews the ground + With rose and odours._" + +It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to +say about wine than solid food, because the former more directly +stimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from the +subject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the above +passage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a dainty +supper, given by Keats in his "Eve of Saint Agnes." Could Queen Mab +herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to its +appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation +served by Porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept?-- + + "There by the bedside, where the faded moon + Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set + A table, and, half-anguish'd, threw thereor + A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet. + * * * * * + "While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap + Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd; + With jellies smoother than the creamy curd, + And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon; + Manna and dates, in argosy transferr'd + From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one, + From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon." + +But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, which +may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of "Audley +Court" he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:-- + + "There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid + A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound; + Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home, + And, half cut down, a pasty costly made, + Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay + Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks + Imbedded and injellied." + +We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may +be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his +privilege to turn any and every repast into a "feast of reason," with a +warm and plentiful "flow of soul," may really count it as not the least +of his legitimate prides, that he is "a dining animal." + +1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great +diners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of +action; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons of +vigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, a +life of action _requires_ a vigorous constitution, even though there may +be much illness, as in such cases as William III. and our brave General +Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat so +much, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt to +suppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, "nerve-tissue is very +expensive." Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their own +dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, and +we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely. + +1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were +not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or +symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the +life of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold said +that such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that +if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would +meet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were +great diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chances +of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Any +public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to be +followed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered "offering" +being served up on the occasion as a pious _piece de resistance;_ and as +the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the community +in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some very +religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or +other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse +for a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, +as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, or +otherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of +public rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners, +very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up; +only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the house +of one of the _heterae_. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome, +well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned +with flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took off +his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclined +on couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables. +After the solid meal came the "symposium" proper, a scene of music, +merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by young +girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company to +regulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the +"mighty bowl." From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into +goblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling +the cups of the guests. + +1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which +depends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste +of the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general, +that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form no +item of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employed +every day. + +1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern +dinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or +anything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be well +digested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, or +statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are exciting +and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women who +are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat the +simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but those +conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode +of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It +is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the +skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely a +more important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation, +in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, and +of the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has been +said that "the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they +are fed;" and a great gastronomist exclaims, "Tell me what kind of food +you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are." The same writer +has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, but +worth quoting:--"The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to all +conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with all +other pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. +The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than +the discovery of a new star." + +1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some +aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are +well deserving of notice:--"Let the number of your guests never exceed +twelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seen +this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the +Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Let the temperature of the +dining-room be about 68 deg.. Let the dishes be few in number in the first +course, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the most +substantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from the +mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to your +house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your +roof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee +be excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of +his wines and liqueurs." + + +BILLS OF FARE. + + +JANUARY. + +1887.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Mock Turtle Soup, + removed by + Cod's Head and Shoulders. + + Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet. + Flowers. + + Clear Oxtail Soup, + removed by + Fried Filleted Soles. + + _Entrees._ + + Riz de Veau aux + Tomates. + + Ragout of Vase of Cotelettes de Pore + Lobster. Flowers. a la Roberts. + + Poulet a la Marengo. + + _Second Course._ + + Roast Turkey. + + Pigeon Pie. + + Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham. + Celery Sauce. Flowers. + + Tongue, garnished. + + Saddle of Mutton. + + _Third Course._ + + Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam + a la Parisienne. removed by Tartlets. + Plum-pudding. + + Jelly. + + Cream. Vase of Cream. + Flowers. + + Jelly. + + Snipes, + removed by + Pommes a la Conde. + + +We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st +Course, Entrees, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be +found bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, by +studying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for +the more limited company. Several _menus_ for dinners _a la Russe,_ are +also included in the present chapter. + + +1888.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January). + + FIRST COURSE. + Carrot Soup a la Crecy. + Oxtail Soup. + Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce. + Sweetbreads. + Oyster Patties. + Fillets of Rabbits. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Turkey. + Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Hare. + Teal. + Eggs a la Neige. + Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit. + 1 Jelly. 1 Cream. + Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Grilled Mushrooms. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1889.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January). + + FIRST COURSE. + Soup a la Reine. + Whitings au Gratin. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Tendrons de Veau. + Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice. + + SECOND COURSE. + Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce. + Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion, + with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips. + + THIRD COURSE. + Woodcocks or Partridges. + Widgeon. + Charlotte a la Vanille. + Cabinet Pudding. + Orange Jelly. + Blancmange. + Artichoke Bottoms. + Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1890.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January). + + FIRST COURSE. + Mulligatawny Soup. + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + Fried Whitings. + + ENTREES. + Fricasseed Chicken. + Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. + Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Pheasants. + Meringues a la Creme. + Compote of Apples. + Orange Jelly. + Cheesecakes. + Souffle of Rice. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1891.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Soles a la Normandie. + + ENTREES. + Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante. + Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes. + + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Venison. + Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Plum-pudding. + Custards in Glasses. + Apple Tart. + Fondue a la Brillat Savarin. + + DESSERT. + + +1892.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce. + John Dory. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Rump-steak a la Jardiniere Rissoles. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Leg of Mutton. + Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice. + + THIRD COURSE. + Partridges. + Apple Fritters. + Tartlets of Greengage Jam. + Orange Jelly. + Plum-pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +1893.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Pea-soup. + Baked Haddock. + Soles a la Creme. + + ENTREES. + Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. + Fricasseed Rabbit. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Pork and Apple Sauce. + Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Jugged Hare. + Whipped Cream, Blancmange. + Mince Pies. + Cabinet Pudding. + + +1894.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Palestine Soup. + Fried Smelts. + Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Ragout of Lobster. + Broiled Mushrooms. + Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. + + SECOND COURSE. + Sirloin of Beef. + Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. + Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Cheesecakes. + Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries. + Blancmange. + Nesselrode Pudding. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY. + +1895. _Sunday._--1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast +leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet +pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons. + +1896. _Monday._--1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, +potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should +have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked +arrowroot pudding. + +1897. _Tuesday._--1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, +suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a +little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the +meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding. + +1898. _Wednesday._--1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and +horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes. + +1899. _Thursday._--1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef +should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. +Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni. + +1900. _Friday._--1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion +sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings. + +1901. _Saturday._--1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. +2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples. + + * * * * * + +1902. _Sunday._--1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of +roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, +red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese. + +1903. _Monday._--1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and +warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a +few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it +will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, +cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine +sauce. + +1904. _Tuesday._--1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished +with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding. + +1905. _Wednesday._--1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and +fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, +sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. +Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled. + +1906. _Thursday._--1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, +mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding. + +1907. _Friday._--1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side +of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there +is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice +snowballs. + +1908. _Saturday._--1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was +boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding. + +FEBRUARY. + +1909.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + _First Course._ + + Hare Soup, + removed by + Turbot and Oyster Sauce. + + Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. + Flowers. + + Oyster Soup, + removed by + Crimped Cod a la Maitre + d'Hotel. + + _Entrees._ + + Lark Pudding. + + Lobster Patties. Vase of Filets de Perdrix. + Flowers. + + Fricasseed Chicken. + + _Second Course._ + + Braised Capon. + Boiled Ham, garnished. + + Roast Fowls, garnished Vase of Boiled Fowls and + with Water-cresses. Flowers. White Sauce. + + Pate Chaud. + Haunch of Mutton. + + _Third Course_ + + Ducklings, + removed by + Ice Pudding. + + Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes. + + Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly. + Flowers. + + Victoria Blancmange. Gateau de + Sandwiches. Pommes. + + Partridges, + removed by + Cabinet Pudding. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1910.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February). + + FIRST COURSE. + Soup a la Reine. + Clear Gravy Soup. + Brill and Lobster Sauce. + Fried Smelts. + + ENTREES. + Lobster Rissoles. + Beef Palates. + Pork Cutlets a la Soubise. + Grilled Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Braised Turkey. + Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Capon and Oysters. + Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. + Vegetables and Salads. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Plovers. + Orange Jelly. + Clear Jelly. + Charlotte Russe. + Nesselrode Pudding. + Gateau de Riz. + Sea-kale. + Maids of Honour. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1911.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February). + + FIRST COURSE. + Palestine Soup. + John Dory, with Dutch Sauce. + Red Mullet, with Sauce Genoise. + + ENTREES. + Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce. + Fowl au Bechamel. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Saddle of Mutton. + Boiled Capon and Oysters. + Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings. + Pain de Rhubarb. + Orange Jelly. + Strawberry Cream. + Cheesecakes. + Almond Pudding. + Fig Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1912.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February). + + FIRST COURSE. + Mock Turtle Soup. + Fillets of Turbot a la Creme. + Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Larded Fillets of Rabbits. + Tendrons de Veau with Puree of Tomatoes. + + SECOND COURSE. + Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + Roast Fowls. + Boiled Ham. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Pigeons or Larks. + Rhubarb Tartlets. + Meringues. + Clear Jelly. Cream. + Ice Pudding. + Souffle. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1913.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Rice Soup. + Red Mullet, with Genoise Sauce. + Fried Smelts. + + ENTREES. + Fowl Pudding. + Sweetbreads. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Turkey and Sausages. + Boiled Leg of Pork. + Pease Pudding. + + THIRD COURSE. + Lemon Jelly. + Charlotte a la Vanille. + Maids of Honour. + Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +1914.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Spring Soup. + Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Fricasseed Rabbit. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones. + Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Marrow Pudding. + Cheesecakes. + Tartlets of Greengage Jam. + Lemon Cream. + Rhubarb Tart. + + DESSERT. + + +1915.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Poulet a la Marengo. + Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce. + Boiled Capon and Oysters. + Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Lobster Salad. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Pain de Rhubarb. + Vanilla Cream. + Orange Jelly. + + DESSERT. + + +1916.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Ox-tail Soup. + Cod a la Creme. + Fried Soles. + + ENTREES. + Lark Pudding. + Fowl Scollops. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Leg of Mutton. + Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. + Pigeon Pie. + Small Ham, boiled and garnished. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Game, when liked. + Tartlets of Raspberry Jam. + Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb. + Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding. + Brocoli and Sea-kale. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY. + +1917. _Sunday_.--1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, +brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese. + +1918. _Monday_.--1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. +Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in +slices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese. + +1919. _Tuesday_.--1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork +cutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese. + +1920. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. +Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, +garnished with jam. + +1921. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease +pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni. + +1922. _Friday_.--1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled +in. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding. + +1923. _Saturday_.--1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricot +mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese. + + * * * * * + +1924. _Sunday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper +sauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with +bottled fruit, ratafia pudding. + +1925. _Monday_.--1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice; +rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding. + +1926. _Tuesday_.--1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was +boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, +brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese. + +1927. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and +mashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into +neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart. + +1928. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and +vegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni. + +1929. _Friday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce; +greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding. +Cheese and water-cresses. + +1930. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and +mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding. + +MARCH. + +1931.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, + removed by + Salmon and dressed + Cucumber. + + Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whitings. + Flowers. + + Spring Soup, + removed by + Boiled Turbot and Lobster + Sauce. + + _Entrees_ + + Fricasseed Chicken. + + Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Compote of Pigeons. + Flowers. + + Larded Sweetbreads. + + _Second Course._ + + Fore-quarter of Lamb. + + Braised Capon. + + Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. + garnished. Flowers. + + Roast Fowls. + + Rump of Beef a la + Jardiniere. + + _Third Course._ + + Guinea-Fowls, larded, + removed by + Cabinet Pudding. + + Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb + Tartlets. Tart. + + Custards. Vase of Jelly in + Flowers. glasses. + + Italian Cream. + + Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes. + removed by + Nesselrode Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1932.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March). + + FIRST COURSE. + White Soup. + Clear Gravy Soup. + Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber. + Baked Mullets in paper cases. + + ENTREES. + Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce. + Larded Sweetbreads. + Rissoles. + Chicken Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal and Bechamel Sauce. + Boiled Leg of Lamb. + Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. + Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips. + Vegetables--Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli. + + THIRD COURSE. + Two Ducklings. + Guinea-Fowl, larded. + Orange Jelly. + Charlotte Russe. + Coffee Cream. + Ice Pudding. + Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. + Spinach, garnished with Croutons. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1933.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March). + + FIRST COURSE. + Macaroni Soup. + Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + Salmon Cutlets. + + ENTREES. + Compote of Pigeons. + Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. + Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. + Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Plum-pudding. + Ginger Cream. + Trifle. + Rhubarb Tart. + Cheesecakes. + Fondues, in cases. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1934.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March). + + FIRST COURSE. + Calf's-Head Soup. + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + Broiled Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel. + + ENTREES. + Lobster Cutlets. + Calf's Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Loin of Veal. + Two Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel. + Boiled Knuckle of Ham. + Vegetables--Spinach or Brocoli. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Apple Custards. + Blancmange. + Lemon Jelly. + Jam Sandwiches. + Ice Pudding. + Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1935.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Soles a la Creme. + + ENTREES. + Veal Cutlets. + Small Vols-au-Vent. + + SECOND COURSE. + Small Saddle of Mutton. + Half Calf's Head. + Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Cabinet Pudding. + Orange Jelly. + Custards, in glasses. + Rhubarb Tart. + Lobster Salad. + + DESSERT. + + +1936.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Baked Mullets. + + ENTREES. + Chicken Cutlets. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce. + Boiled Leg of Pork. + Pease Pudding. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Swiss Cream. + Lemon Jelly. + Cheesecakes. + Rhubarb Tart. + Macaroni. + + Dessert. + + +1937.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Oyster Soup. + Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber. + + ENTREES. + Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. + Roast Fowls, garnished with + Water-cresses. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Orange Jelly. + Lemon Cream. + Souffle of Arrowroot. + Sea-kale. + + DESSERT. + + +1938.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Ox-tail Soup. + Boiled Mackerel. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Mutton Kidneys. + Minced Veal and Oysters. + + SECOND COURSE. + Stewed Shoulder of Veal. + Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Tartlets of Strawberry Jam. + Cheesecakes. + Gateau de Riz. + Carrot Pudding. + Sea-kale. + + DESSERT. + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH. + +1939. _Sunday_.--1. Boiled 1/2 calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue on +a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed +potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, +Baroness pudding. + +1940. _Monday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, +baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with +sugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes. + +1941. _Tuesday_.--1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf's head +was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and +oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding. + +1942. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. +Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. +Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb. + +1943. _Thursday_.--1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. +2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding. + +1944. _Friday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin +of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding. + +1945. _Saturday_.--1.--Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains +of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding. + + * * * * * + +1946. _Sunday_.--1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and +potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter +pudding. + +1947. _Monday_.--1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak +pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured +round them; marmalade tartlets. + +1948. _Tuesday_.--1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed +turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with +remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese. + +1949. _Wednesday_.--1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and +bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and +the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding. + +1950. _Thursday_.--1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton +was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs +of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. +Apple pudding or macaroni. + +1951. _Friday_.--1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold +beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit. + +1952. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, +greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum +tart, baked custard pudding. + +APRIL. + +1953.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Spring Soup, + removed by + Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + + Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts. + Flowers. + + Soles a la Creme. + + _Entrees._ + + Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas. + + Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties. + Flowers. + + Grenadines de Veau. + + _Second Course._ + + Roast Ribs of Lamb. + + Larded Capon. + + Stewed Beef A la Vase of Boiled Ham. + Jardiniere. Flowers. + + Spring Chickens. + + Braised Turkey. + + _Third Course._ + + Ducklings, + removed by + Cabinet Pudding. + + Clear Jelly. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly. + + Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes. + Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart. + + Raspberry Cream. + + Nesselrode Pudding. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1954.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April). + + FIRST COURSE. + Soup a la Reine. + Julienne Soup. + Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + Slices of Salmon a la Genevese. + + ENTREES. + Croquettes of Leveret. + Fricandeau de Veau. + Vol-au-Vent. + Stewed Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Fore-quarter of Lamb. + Saddle of Mutton. + Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas. + Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls. + Charlotte a la Parisienne. + Orange Jelly. + Meringues. + Ratafia Ice Pudding. + Lobster Salad. + Sea-kale. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1955.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April). + + FIRST COURSE + Gravy Soup. + Salmon and Dressed Cucumber. + Shrimp Sauce. + Fillets of Whitings. + + ENTREES. + Lobster Cutlets. + Chicken Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Boiled Leg of Lamb. + Ham, garnished with Brocoli. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Compote of Rhubarb. + Custards. + Vanilla Cream. + Orange Jelly. + Cabinet Pudding. + Ice Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +1956.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April). + + FIRST COURSE. + Spring Soup. + Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce. + Fried Filleted Soles. + + ENTREES. + Chicken Vol-au-Vent. + Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Loin of Veal. + Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel. + Tongue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Guinea-Fowl. + Sea-kale. + Artichoke Bottoms. + Cabinet Pudding. + Blancmange. + Apricot Tartlets. + Rice Fritters. + Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese. + + DESSERT. + + +1957.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). + + FIRST COURSE. + Tapioca Soup. + Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Sweetbreads. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Capon and White Sauce. + Tongue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Souffle of Rice. + Lemon Cream. + Charlotte & la Parisienne. + Rhubarb Tart. + + + DESSERT. + + +1958.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Fried Whitings. + Red Mullet. + + ENTREES. + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + Rissoles. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Ribs of Beef. + Neck of Veal a la Bechamel. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Lemon Pudding. + Rhubarb Tart. + Custards. + Cheesecakes. + + DESSERT. + + +1959.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Fricandeau of Veal. + Lobster Cutlets. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. + Boiled Chickens. + Tongue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Goslings. + + Sea-kale. + Plum-pudding. + Whipped Cream. + Compote of Rhubarb. + Cheesecakes. + + DESSERT. + + +1960.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Ox-tail Soup. + Crimped Salmon. + + ENTREES. + Croquettes of Chicken. + Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts. + Boiled Capon. Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Sea-kale. Lobster Salad. + Cabinet Pudding. + Ginger Cream. + Raspberry Jam Tartlets. + Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni. + + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL. + +1961. _Sunday._--1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, +sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses. + +1962. _Monday._--1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of +veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding. + +1963. _Tuesday._--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from +remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding. + +1964. _Wednesday._--1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, +carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding. + +1965. _Thursday._--1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in. +2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. +Macaroni. + +1966. _Friday._--1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef. +Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter +pudding and sweet sauce. + +1967. _Saturday._--1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains +of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. +Yeast-dumplings. + + * * * * * + +1968. _Sunday._--1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2. +Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb +tart, cheesecakes. + +1969. _Monday._--1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of +boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. +Spinach and poached eggs. + +1970. _Tuesday._--1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled +neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked +rice-pudding. + +1971. _Wednesday._--1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel +sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig +pudding. + +1972. _Thursday._--1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, +potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb +pudding. + +1973. _Friday._--1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced +veal. 2. Half-pay pudding. + +1974. _Saturday._--1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked +arrowroot pudding. + +MAY. + +1975.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Asparagus Soup, + removed by + Salmon and Lobster + Sauce. + + Fried Filleted Vase of Fillets of Mackerel, + Soles Flowers. a la Maitre d'Hotel. + + Oxtail Soup, + removed by + Brill & Shrimp Sauce. + + _Entrees._ + + Lamb Cutlets and + Cucumbers. + + Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Fowl. + Flowers. + + Veal Ragout. + + _Second Course._ + + Saddle of Lamb. + + Raised Pie. + + Roast Fowls. Vase of Boiled Capon + Flowers. and White Sauce. + + Braised Ham. + + Roast Veal. + + _Third Course._ + + Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad. + Cheesecake removed by + College Puddings. + + Noyeau Jelly. + + Italian Vase of Charlotte a la + Cream. Flowers. Parisienne. + + Inlaid Jelly. + + Plovers' Ducklings, + Eggs. removed by Tartlets. + Nesselrode Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1976.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May). + + FIRST COURSE. + White Soup. + Asparagus Soup. + Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Chicken Vol-au-Vent. + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + Fricandeau of Veal. + Stewed Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled and Roast Fowls. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Goslings. + Charlotte Russe. + Vanilla Cream. + Gooseberry Tart. Custards. + Cheesecakes. + Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1977.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (May). + + FIRST COURSE. + Spring Soup. + Salmon a la Genevese. + Red Mullet. + + ENTREES. + Chicken Vol-au-Vent. + Calf's Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes. + + SECOND COURSE. + Saddle of Mutton. + Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. + Braised Ham. + Asparagus. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Pigeons. + Ducklings. + Sponge-cake Pudding. + Charlotte a la Vanille. + Gooseberry Tart. + Cream. + Cheesecakes. + Apricot-jam Tart. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1978.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (May). + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Brill and Lobster Sauce. + Fried Fillets of Mackerel. + + + ENTREES + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + Lobster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Boiled Leg of Lamb. + Asparagus. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Gooseberry Tart. + Custards. + Fancy Pastry. + Souffle. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1979.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce. + Sweetbreads. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. + Boiled Capon. + Asparagus. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Cabinet Pudding. + Compote of Gooseberries. + Custards in Glasses. + Blancmange. + Lemon Tartlets. + Fondue. + + DESSERT. + + +1980.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Macaroni Soup. + Boiled Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Fried Smelts. + + ENTREES. + Scollops of Fowl. + Lobster Pudding. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach. + Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Leveret. + Salad. + Souffle of Rice. + Ramekins. + Strawberry-jam Tartlets. + Orange Jelly. + + DESSERT. + + +1981.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Trout with Dutch Sauce. + Salmon Cutlets. + + ENTREES. + Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms. + Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. + Calf's Head a la Tortue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Spring Chickens. + Iced Pudding. + Vanilla Cream. + Clear Jelly. + Tartlets. + Cheesecakes. + + DESSERT. + + +1982.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Soup a la Reine. + Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce. + Baked Whitings aux Fines Herbes. + + ENTREES. + Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers. + Stewed Pigeons. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Bacon-cheek and Greens. + Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere. + + THIRD COURSE. + Ducklings. + Souffle a la Vanille. + Compote of Oranges. + Meringues. + Gooseberry Tart. + Fondue. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MAY. + +1983. _Sunday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and +potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards. + +1984. _Monday_.--1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, +mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding. + +1985. _Tuesday_.--1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton, +rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni. + +1986. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, +mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream. + +1987. _Thursday_.--1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, +spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding. + +1988. _Friday_.--1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewed +rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding. + +1989. _Saturday_.--1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets, +and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni. + + * * * * * + +1990. _Sunday_.--1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast +lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart. + +1991. _Monday_.--1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and +garnished with croutons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb +and dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar +sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding. + +1992. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire +pudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding. + +1993. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and +dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked +plum-pudding. + +1994. _Thursday_.--1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, broiled +beef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart. + +1995. _Friday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion +sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings. + +1996. _Saturday_.--1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted +butter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot +pudding. + + +JUNE. + +1997.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course_. + + Asparagus Soup, + removed by + Crimped Salmon. + + Fillets of Garnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes. + Flowers. + + Vermicelli Soup, + removed by Whitebait. + + _Entrees_. + + Lamb Cutlets and Peas. + + Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau + Flowers. a la Jardiniere. + + Larded Sweetbreads. + + _Second Course_. + + Saddle of Lamb. + + Tongue. + + Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon. + Chickens. Flowers. + + Ham. + + Boiled Calf's Head. + + _Third Course_. + + Prawns. Leveret, Tartlets. + removed by + Ice Pudding. + + Wine Jelly. + + Vol-au-Vent of Straw- Vase of Custards in + berries and Cream. Flowers. glasses. + + Blancmange. + + Goslings, + removed by + Cheesecake Fondues, in cases. Plover's Eggs. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1998.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June). + + FIRST COURSE. + Green-Pea Soup. + Rice Soup. + Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + Trout a la Genevese. + Whitebait. + + ENTREES. + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + Fricasseed Chicken. + Lobster Rissoles. + Stewed Veal and Peas. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach. + Filet de Boeuf a la Jardiniere. + Boiled Fowls. + Braised Shoulder of Lamb. + Tongue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Goslings. + Ducklings. + Nesselrode Pudding. + Charlotte a la Parisienne. + Gooseberry Tartlets. + Strawberry Cream. + Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. + Custards. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +1999.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (June). + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. + Red Mullet. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas. + Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Boiled Leg of Lamb, garnished with young Carrots. + Boiled Bacon-cheek. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Ducks. + Leveret. + Gooseberry Tart. + Strawberry Cream. + Strawberry Tartlets, + Meringues. + Cabinet Pudding. + Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2000.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June). + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Trout a la Genevese + Salmon Cutlets. + + ENTREES. + Lamb Cutlets and Peas. + Fricasseed Chicken. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Ribs of Beef. + Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. + Boiled Ham. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Ducks. + Compote of Gooseberries. + Strawberry Jelly. + Pastry. + Iced Pudding. + Cauliflower with Cream Sauce. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2001.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Spring Soup. + Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + + ENTREES. Veal Cutlets and Endive. + Ragout of Duck and Green Peas. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Loin of Veal. + Boiled Leg of Lamb and White Sauce. + Tongue, garnished. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Strawberry Cream. + Gooseberry Tartlets. + Almond Pudding. + Lobster Salad. + + DESSERT. + + +2002.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Calf's-Head Soup. + Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Whitebait. + + ENTREES. + Chicken Cutlets. + Curried Lobster. + + SECOND COURSE. + Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad. + Stewed Beef a la Jardiniere. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Goslings. + Green-Currant Tart. + Custards, in glasses. + Strawberry Blancmange. + Souffle of Rice. + + DESSERT. + + +2003.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Green-Pea Soup. + Baked Soles aux fines herbes. + Stewed Trout. + + ENTREES. + Calf's Liver and Bacon. + Rissoles. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad. + Calf's Head a la Tortue. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Ducks. + Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream. + Strawberry Tartlets. + Lemon Blancmange. + Baked Gooseberry Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +2004.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Spinach Soup. + Soles a la Creme. + Red Mullet. + + ENTREES. + Roast Fillet of Veal. + Braised Ham and Spinach. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Fowls and White Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Leveret. + Strawberry Jelly. + Swiss Cream. + Cheesecakes. + Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE. + +2005. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. +2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. +3. Gooseberry tart, custards. + +2006. _Monday_.--1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, +garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. +3. Raspberry-and-currant tart. + +2007. _Tuesday_.--1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, +garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding. + +2008. _Wednesday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, peas, +hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding. + +2009. _Thursday_--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, +potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice. + +2010. _Friday_.--1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. +Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding. + +2011. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and +cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding. + + * * * * * + +2012. _Sunday_.--1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and +new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue. + +2013. _Monday_.--1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, +young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding. + +2014. _Tuesday_.--1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas +and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding. + +2015. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. +Gooseberry and rice pudding. + +2016. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. +Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding. + +2017. _Friday_.--1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots and +new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings. + +2018. _Saturday_.--1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green +peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream. + + +JULY. + +2019.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course_. + + Green-Pea Soup, + removed by + Salmon and dressed + Cucumber. + + Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout + Flowers. + + Soup a la Reine, + removed by + Mackerel a la Maitre + d'Hotel. + + _Entrees_ + + Lamb Cutlets and + Peas. + + + Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of + en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens. + + Chicken Patties. + + _Second Course_. + + Haunch of Venison. + + Pigeon Pie. + + Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens. + Flowers. + + Braised Ham. + + Saddle of Lamb. + + _Third Course_. + + Prawns. Roast Ducks, Custards. + removed by Vanilla Souffle. + Raspberry Cream. + + Cherry Tart. Vase of Raspberry-and- + Flowers. Currant Tart. + + Strawberry Cream. + + Green Goose, + removed by + Creams. Iced Pudding. Tartlets. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2020.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (July). + + FIRST COURSE. + + Soup a la Jardiniere. + Chicken Soup. + Crimped Salmon and Parsley-and-Butter. + Trout aux fines herbes, in cases. + + ENTREES. + Tendrons de Veau and Peas. + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + + SECOND COURSE. + Loin of Veal a la Bechamel. + Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. + Salad. + Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Ducks. + Turkey Poult. + Stewed Peas a la Francaise. + Lobster Salad. + Cherry Tart. + Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. + Custards, in glasses. + Lemon Creams. + Nesselrode Pudding. + Marrow Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2021.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July) + + FIRST COURSE. + Green-Pea Soup. + Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Veal and Peas. + Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Venison. + Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel. + Braised Ham. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Ducks. + Peas a la Francaise. + Lobster Salad. + Strawberry Cream. + Blancmange. + Cherry Tart. + Cheesecakes. + Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2022.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Soup a la Jardiniere. + Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. + Fillets of Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel. + + ENTREES. + Lobster Cutlets. + Beef Palates a la Italienne. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. + Boiled Capon and White Sauce. + Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows. + Bacon and Beans. + + THIRD COURSE. + Goslings. + Whipped Strawberry Cream. + Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. + Meringues. + Cherry Tartlets. + Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2023.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce. + Whitebait. + + ENTREES. + Croquettes a la Reine. + Curried Lobster. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Lamb. + Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + + THIRD COURSE. + Larded Turkey Poult. + Raspberry Cream. + Cherry Tart. + Custards, in glasses. + Gateaux a la Genevese. + Nesselrode Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY. + +2024. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet +of real, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant +tart, baked custard pudding. + +2025. _Monday_.--1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with +water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart. + +2026. _Tuesday_.--1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with +remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold +fillet. 3. Strawberry cream. + +2027. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, and +potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding. + +2028. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and +tomato sauce, bashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings. + +2029. _Friday_.--1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet +dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding. + +2030. _Saturday_.--1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. +Rolled jam pudding. + + * * * * * + +2031. _Sunday_.--1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf's head, +tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, +custards. + +2032. _Monday_.--1. Hashed calf's head, cold lamb and salad. 2. +Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding. + +2033. _Tuesday_.--1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and +potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding. + +2034. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; +the remains of stewed veal rechauffe. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet +pudding. + +2035. _Thursday_.--1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled +knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. +Black-currant pudding. + +2036. _Friday_.--1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and +potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding. + +2037. _Saturday_.--1. Minced mutton, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. +Baked lemon pudding. + + +AUGUST. + +2038.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Mock-Turtle Soup, + removed by + Broiled Salmon and + Caper Sauce. + + + Red Mullet. Vase of Perch. + Flowers. + + Soup a la Julienne, + removed by + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + + _Entrees._ + + Fricandeau de Veau + a la Jardiniere. + + Curried Lobster. Vase of Lamb Cutlets a la Puree + Flowers. de Pommes de Terre. + + Fillets of Ducks + and Peas. + + _Second Course._ + + Haunch of Venison. + + Ham, garnished. + + Capon a la Vase of Roast Fowl. + Financiere Flowers. + + Leveret Pie. + + Saddle of Mutton. + + _Third Course._ + + Grouse, + removed by + Cabinet Pudding. + + Lobster Salad. Fruit Jelly. Cheesecakes. + + Charlotte a la Vase of Custards. + Vanille. Flowers. + + Raspberry Vol-au-Vent Prawns. + Tartlets. of Pears. + + Larded Peahen, + removed by + Iced Pudding. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2039.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (August) + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Soup a la Reine. + Boiled Salmon. + Fried Flounders. + Trout en Matelot. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Pigeons. + Sweetbreads. + Ragout of Ducks. + Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Quarter of Lamb. + Cotelette de Boeuf a la Jardiniere. + Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue. + Bacon and Beans. + + THIRD COURSE. + Grouse. + Wheatears. + Greengage Tart. + Whipped Cream. + Vol-au-Vent of Plums. + Fruit Jelly. + Iced Pudding. + Cabinet Pudding. + + DESSERTS AND ICES. + + +2040.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (August). + + FIRST COURSE. + Julienne Soup. + Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce. + Red Mullet. + + ENTREES. + Riz de Veau aux Tomates. + Fillets of Ducks and Peas. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Venison. + Boiled Capon and Oysters. + Ham, garnished. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Leveret. + Fruit Jelly. + Compote of Greengages. + Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses. + Omelette souffle. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2041.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Macaroni Soup. + Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise. + Fried Fillets of Trout. + + ENTREES. + Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas. + Salmi of Grouse. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Loin of Veal. + Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans. + Stewed Beef a la Jardiniere. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Turkey Poult. + Plum Tart. + Custard Pudding. + Vol-au-Vent of Pears. + Strawberry Cream. + Ratafia Souffle. + + DESSERT. + + +2042.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vegetable-Marrow Soup. + Stowed Mullet. + Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Curried Lobster. + Fricandeau de Veau a la Jardiniere. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Saddle of Mutton. + Stewed Shoulder of Veal, garnished with Forcemeat Balls. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce. + Vol-au-Vent of Greengages. + Fruit Jolly. + Raspberry Cream. + Custards. + Fig Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST. + +2043. _Sunday_.--1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb, +mint sauce, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, +custard pudding. + +2044. _Monday_.--1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetable +marrow and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings. + +2045. _Tuesday_.--1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French +beans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding. + +2046. _Wednesday_.--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French beans; +the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow. 3. +Black-currant pudding. + +2047. _Thursday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French +beans and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding. + +2048. _Friday_.--1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and +salad, lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce +instead of pudding. + +2049. _Saturday_.--1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold +beef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese. + + * * * * * + +2050. _Sunday_.--1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled +bacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans and +potatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding. + +2051. _Monday_.--1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton +cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding. + +2052. _Tuesday_.--1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled +knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croutons; vegetables. 3. +College puddings. + +2053. _Wednesday_.--1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish of +rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart. + +2054. _Thursday_.--1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet +dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding. + +2055. _Friday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was +boiled in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomato +sauce. 3. Fondue. + +2056. _Saturday_.--1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef; +cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +2057.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course_. + + Julienne Soup, + removed by + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + + Red Mullet & Vase of Fried Eels. + Italian Sauce. Flowers. + + Giblet Soup, + removed by + Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + + _Entrees_. + + Lamb Cutlets and + French Beans. + + Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au gratin. + and Truffles. Flowers. + + Sweetbreads and + Tomata Sauce. + + _Second Course_. + + Saddle of Mutton. + + Veal-and-Ham Pie. + + Chickens a la Vase of Braised Goose. + Bechamel. Flowers. + + Broiled Ham, garnished + with Cauliflowers. + + Filet of Veal. + + _Third Course_. + + Custards. Partridges, Apple Tart. + removed by + Plum-pudding. + + Compote of Greengages. + + Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream. + Flowers. + + Pastry Sandwiches. + + Grouse & Bread Sauce, + removed by + Plum Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. Custards. + + + DESSERTS AND ICES. + + +2058.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (September). + + FIRST COURSE. + + Mock-Turtle Soup. + Soup a la Jardiniere + Salmon and Lobster Sauce. + Fried Whitings. + Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Veal Cutlets. + Scalloped Oysters. + Curried Fowl. + Grilled Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Calf's Head a la Bechamel. + Braised Ham. + Roast Fowls aux Cressons. + + THIRD COURSE. + Leveret. + Grouse. + Cabinet Pudding. + Iced Pudding. + Compote of Plumbs. + Damson Tart. + Cream. + Fruit Jelly. + Prawns. + Lobster Salad. + + + DESSERTS AND ICES. + + +2059.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (September). + + FIRST COURSE. + Flemish Soup. + Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts. + Red Mullet and Italian Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Tendrons de Veau and Truffles. + Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante. + + SECOND COURSE. + Loin of Veal a la Bechamel. + Roast Haunch of Venison. + Braised Ham. + Grouse Pie. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Hare. + Plum Tart. + Whipped Cream. + Punch Jelly. + Compote of Damsons. + Marrow Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +2060.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September). + + FIRST COURSE. + Game Soup. + Crimped Skate. + Slices of Salmon a la Genevese. + + ENTREES. + Fricasseed Sweetbreads. + Savoury Rissoles. + + SECOND COURSE. + Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. + Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Partridges. + Charlotte Russe. + Apricots and Rice. + Fruit Jelly. + Cabinet Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +2061.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Thick Gravy Soup. + Fillets of Turbot a la Creme. + Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Vol-au-Vent of Lobster. + Salmi of Grouse. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Venison. + Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Grouse. + Apricot Blancmange. + Compote of peaches. + Plum Tart. + Custards. + Plum-pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER. + +2062. _Sunday_.--1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire +pudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage +pudding, vanilla cream. + +2063. _Monday_.--1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and +salad; small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce. + +2064. _Tuesday_.--1. Fried solos, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls, +parsley-and-butter; bacon-check, garnished with French beans; beef +rissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream. + +2065. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet +dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice. + +2066. _Thursday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was +boiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple +pudding. + +2067. _Friday_.--1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold +beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart. + +2068. _Saturday_.--1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. +Somersetshire dumplings. + + * * * * * + +2069. _Sunday_.--1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg +of mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf's +head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards, in glasses. + +2070. _Monday_.--1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head a la maitre +d'hotel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef and +vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding. + +1071. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon, +garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains of +mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding. + +2072. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, +potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked apple +pudding. + +2073. _Thursday_.--1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and +red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped +oysters, instead of pudding. + +2074. _Friday_.--1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare, +jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding. + +2075. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster sauce, mashed +potatoes; veal-and-ham pie,--the ham may be cut from that boiled on +Wednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2, Lemon pudding. + + +OCTOBER. + +2076.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course_ + + Mock-Turtle Soup, + removed by + Crimped Cod and Oyster + Sauce. + + Soles a la Vase of Red Mullet. + Normandie. Flowers. + + Julienne Soup, + removed by + John Dory and Dutch + Sauce. + + _Entrees_ + + Sweetbreads and Tomata + Sauce. + + Oyster Patties. Vase of Stewed Mushrooms. + Flowers. + + Fricandeau de Veau and + Celery Sauce. + + _Second Course._ + + Roast Saddle of + Mutton. + + Grouse Pie. + + Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Fowls and + Flowers. Oyster Sauce. + + Ham. + + Larded Turkey. + + _Third Course._ + + Custards. Pheasants, Prawns. + removed by + Cabinet Pudding. + + Italian Cream. + + Gateau de Vase of Compote of + Pommes. Flowers. Plums. + + Peach Jelly. + + Roast Hare, + removed by + Lobster Salad. Iced Pudding. Apple Tart. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2077.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (OCTOBER). + + FIRST COURSE. + Carrot Soup a la Creci. + Soup a la Reine. + Baked Cod. + Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Riz de Veau and Tomata Sauce. + Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. + Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert. + Grilled Mushrooms. + + SECOND COURSE. + Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + Roast Goose. + Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. + Tongue, garnished. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Grouse. + Pheasants. + Quince Jelly. + Lemon Cream. + Apple Tart. + Compote of Peaches. + Nesselrode Pudding. + Cabinet Pudding. + Scalloped Oysters. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2078.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (October). + + FIRST COURSE. + Calf's-Head Soup. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + Stewed Eels. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Mutton Kidneys. + Curried Sweetbreads. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose. + + THIRD COURSE. + Partridges. + Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream. + Vol-au-Vent of Pears. + Apple Tart. + Cabinet Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2079.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Hare Soup. + Broiled Cod a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Haddocks and Egg Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans. + Haricot Mutton. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Capon and Rice. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Pheasants. + Punch Jelly. Blancmange. + Apples a la Portugaise. + Charlotte a la Vanille. + Marrow Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +2080.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Mock-Turtle Soup. + Brill and Lobster Sauce. + Fried Whitings. + + ENTREES. + Fowl a la Bechamel. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Sucking-Pig. + Stewed Hump of Beef a la Jardiniere. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Grouse. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Coffee Cream. + Cheesecakes. + Apricot Tart. + Iced Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER. + +2081. _Sunday_.--1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce; +small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson +tart, boiled batter pudding. + +2082. _Monday_.--1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was +boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, +and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies. + +2083. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices of +mutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding. + +2084. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable +marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding. + +2085. _Thursday_.--1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and +salad; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni. + +2086. _Friday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce; +bacon-check, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of cold +beef. 3. Baroness pudding. + +2087. _Saturday_.--1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish of +rice, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and +sponge cakes. + + * * * * * + +2088. _Sunday_.--1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of +mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked +custards in cups. + +2089. _Monday_.--1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a +maitre d'hotel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled +bacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed +damsons. 2090. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; +hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings. + +2091. _Wednesday_.--1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled +knuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding. + +2092. _Thursday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and +potatoes. 2. Rice snowballs. + +2093. _Friday_.--1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashed +potatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple +pudding. + +2094. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding. + + +NOVEMBER. +2095.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course._ + + Thick Grouse Soup, + removed by + Crimped Cod and Oyster + Sauce. + + Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts. + Flowers. + + Clear Ox-tail Soup, + removed by + Fillets of Turbot a la + Creme. + + _Entrees._ + + Poulet a la Marengo. + + Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Ragout of Lobster. + Flowers. + + Mushrooms sautes. + + _Second Course._ + + + Haunch of Mutton. + + Cold Game Pie. + + Lark Pudding. Vase of Roast Fowls. + Flowers. + + Boiled Ham. + + Boiled Turkey and Celery + Sauce. + + _Third Course._ + + Apple Tart. Partridges, Shell-Fish. + removed by + Plum-pudding. + + Wine Jelly. + + Pommes a la Vase of Vol-au-Vent + Conde. Flowers. of Pears. + + Snipes, + removed by + Prawns. Charlotte glacee. Apricot + Tartlets. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2096.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (November). + + FIRST COURSE. + Hare Soup. + Julienne Soup. + Baked Cod. + Soles a la Normandie. + + ENTREES. + Riz de Veau aux Tomates. + Lobster Patties. + Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. + Croutades of Marrow aux fines herbes. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Sirloin of Beef. + Braised Goose. + Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. + Bacon-cheek, garnished with Sprouts. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Partridges. + Apples a la Portugaise. + Bavarian Cream. + Apricot-jam Sandwiches. + Cheesecakes. + Charlotte a la Vanille. + Plum-pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2097.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (NOVEMBER). + + FIRST COURSE. + Mulligatawny Soup. + Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce. + Eels en Matelote. + + ENTREES. + Broiled Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. + Tendrons de Veau a la Jardiniere. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables. + Roast Goose. + Cold Game Pie. + + THIRD COURSE. + Snipes. + Teal. + Apple Souffle. + Iced Charlotte. + Tartlets. + Champagne Jelly. + Coffee Cream. + Mince Pies. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2098.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER). + + FIRST COURSE. + Oyster Soup. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Pigs' Feet a la Bechamel. + Curried Rabbit. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Sucking-Pig. + Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Jugged Hare. + Meringues a la Creme. + Apple Custard. + Vol-au-Vent of Pears. + Whipped Cream. + Cabinet Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +2099.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Game Soup. + Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce. + Fried Eels. + + ENTREES. + Kidneys a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Saddle of Mutton. + Boiled Capon and Rice. + Small Ham. + Lark Pudding. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Hare. + Apple Tart. + Pineapple Cream. + Clear Jelly. + Cheesecakes. + Marrow Pudding. + Nesselrode Pudding. + + DESSERT. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER. + +2100. _Sunday_.--1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricot +beans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding. + +2101. _Monday._--1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled +bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding. + +2102. _Tuesday_.--1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled +bacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding. + +2103. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, and +pease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. +Baroness pudding. + +2104. _Thursday_.--1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges, +bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat slices, +and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; apple +fritters. + +2105. _Friday_.--1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak and +oyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni. + +2106. _Saturday_.--1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding. + + * * * * * + +2107. _Sunday_.--1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small +boiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam +tart. + +2108. _Monday_.--1. The remainder of cod warmed in maitre d'hotel sauce. +2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Baked +bread-and-butter pudding. + +2109. _Tuesday_.--1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef was +boiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. +3. Carrot pudding. + +2110. _Wednesday_.--1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Roast leg of +pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese. + +2111. _Thursday_.--1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef; +curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding. + +2112. _Friday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, +potatoes. 2. Apple tart. + +2113. _Saturday_.--1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce; +vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit. + + +DECEMBER. + +2114.--DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. + + _First Course_. + + Mock-Turtle Soup, + removed by + Cod's Head and Shoulders + and Oyster Sauce. + + Stewed Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. + Flowers. + + Julienne Soup, + removed by + Soles aux fines herbes. + + _Entrees_. + + Fillets of Grouse and + Sauce Piquante. + + Curried Lobster. Vase of Mutton Cutlets and + Flowers. Soubise Sauce. + + Sweetbreads. + + _Second Course_. + + Haunch of Mutton. + + Ham and Brussels + Sprouts. + + Roast Goose. Vase of Stewed Beef a la + Flowers. Jardiniere. + + Game Pie. + + Boiled Turkey and + Celery Sauce. + + _Third Course_. + + Apricot Torte. Pheasants, Victoria + removed by Sandwiches. + + Plum-pudding. + + Vanilla Cream. + + Lemon Jelly. Vase of Champagne Jelly. + Flowers. + + Blancmange. + + Wild Ducks, + removed by + Tipsy Cake. Iced Pudding. Mince Pies. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2115.--DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December). + + FIRST COURSE. + Game Soup. + Clear Vermicelli Soup. + Codfish au gratin. + Fillets of Whitings a la Maitre d'Hotel. + + ENTREES. + Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante. + Fricasseed Chicken. + Oyster Patties. + Curried Rabbit. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Turkey and Sausages. + Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables. + Roast Goose. + Stewed Beef a la Jardiniere. + + THIRD COURSE. + Widgeon. + Partridges. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Mince Pies. + Orange Jelly. + Lemon Cream. + Apple Tart. + Cabinet Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2116.--DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December). + + FIRST COURSE. + Mulligatawny Soup. + Fried Slices of Codfish. + Soles a la Creme. + + ENTREES. + Croquettes of Fowl. + Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Ribs of Beef. + Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. + Tongue, garnished. + Lark Pudding. Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Roast Hare. Grouse. + Plum-pudding. Mince Pies. + Charlotte a la Parisienne. + Cheesecakes. + Apple Tart. + Nesselrode Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2117.--DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December). + + FIRST COURSE. + Carrot Soup. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + Baked Soles. + + ENTREES. + Mutton Kidneys a la Francaise. + Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Boiled Beef and Vegetables. + Marrow-bones. + Roast Fowls and Water-cresses + Tongue, garnished. + Game Pie. + + THIRD COURSE. + Partridges. + Blancmange. + Compote of Apples. + Vol-au-Vent of Pears. + Almond Cheesecakes. + Lemon Pudding. + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +2118.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--I. + + FIRST COURSE. + Rabbit Soup. + Brill and Shrimp Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Turkey and Sausages. + Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Hunters' Pudding. + Lemon Cheesecakes. + Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses. + Raspberry Cream. + + DESSERT. + + +2119.--DINNER FOR, 6 PERSONS (December).--II. + + FIRST COURSE. + Ox-tail Soup. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + + ENTREES. + Savoury Rissoles. + Fowl Scollops a la Bechamel. + + SECOND COURSE. + Haunch of Mutton. + Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce. + Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Snipes. + Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. + Apples a la Portugaise. + Apricot-jam Tartlets. + Souffle of Rice. + + DESSERT. + + +2120.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--III. + + FIRST COURSE. + Vermicelli Soup. + Soles a la Maitre d'Hotel. + Fried Eels. + + ENTREES. + Pork Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. + Ragout of Mutton a la Jardiniere. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Goose. + Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Pheasants. + Whipped Cream. + Meringues. Compote of Normandy Pippins. + Mince Pies. Plum-pudding. + + Dessert. + + +2121.--DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).--IV. + + FIRST COURSE. + Carrot Soup. + Baked Cod. + Fried Smelts. + + ENTREES. + Stewed Rump-steak a la Jardiniere. + Fricasseed Chicken. + + SECOND COURSE. + Roast Leg of Mutton, boned and stuffed. + Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. + Vegetables. + + THIRD COURSE. + Wild Ducks. + Fancy Pastry. + Lemon Cream. + Damson Tart, with bottled fruit. + Custards, in glasses. + Cabinet Pudding. + + Dessert. + + +PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER. + +2122. _Sunday_.--1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, +vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies. + +2123. _Monday._--1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold +beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed; apple +tart. + +2124. _Tuesday_.--1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and +tomata sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding. + +2125. _Wednesday_.--1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the broth +served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it 2. Bakewell +pudding. + +2126. _Thursday_.--1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. +Rice snowballs. + +2127. _Friday_.--1. Soles a la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, +broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding. + +2128. _Saturday_.--1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, +mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings. + + * * * * * + +2129. _Sunday_.--1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease +pudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies. + +2130. _Monday_.--1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. +Mince-meat pudding. + +2131. _Tuesday_.--1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled. +2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding. + +2132. _Wednesday_.--1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, +potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding. + +2133. _Thursday_.--1. Baked cod's head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, +gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni. + +2134. _Friday_.--1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast +hare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open +tarts, rice blancmange. + +2135. _Saturday_.--1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. +Mince pies, baked apple dumplings. + + +2136.--BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PERSONS (November). + + _First course_. + + Hare Soup. + + Puree of Grouse. Vase of Pheasant Soup. + Flowers. + + Soup a la Reine. + + _Entrees_. + + Salmi of Fillets of Hare Salmi of + Widgeon. en Chevereuil. Woodcock. + + Perdrixaux Choux. + + Lark Pudding. Vase of Game Patties. + Flowers. + + Curried Rabbit. + + Salmi of Fillet of Pheasant Salmi of + Woodcock. and Truffles. Widgeon. + + _Second Course_. + + Larded Pheasants. + Leveret, larded and + stuffed. + + Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of + a la Perigord. Flowers. mixed Game. + + Grouse. + + Larded Partridges. + + _Third Course_. + + Snipes. Pintails. Ortolans. + + Quails. + + Golden Vase of Widgeon. + Plovers. Flowers. + + Teal. + + Wild Duck. Woodcock. Snipes. + + _Entremets and Removes_. + + Apricot Boudin a la Nesselrode. Maids of + Tart. Honour. + + Dantzic Jelly. + + Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gateau. + of Pears. Flowers. Genoise glace. + + Charlotte Russe. + + Maids of Plum Pudding. Compote of + Honour. Apples. + + _Dessert._ + + Olives. Strawberry-Ice Figs. + Cream. + + Preserved Pineapples. Dried + Cherries. Fruit. + Grapes. + + Filberts. Pears. Walnuts. + Wafers. Biscuits. + + Ginger-Ice Cream. Vase of Orange-Water Ice. + Flowers. + + Apples. + + Dried Grapes. Preserved + Fruit. Cherries. + Pears. + + Figs. Lemon-Water Ice. Olives. + + +MENU. + +2137.--SERVICE A LA RUSSE (July). + + Julienne Soup. + Vermicelli Soup. + + + Boiled Salmon. + Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + + Soles-Water Souchy. + Perch-Water Souchy. + + Matelote d'Anguilles a la Toulouse. + Filets de Soles a la Normandie. + + Red Mullet. + Trout. + + Lobster Rissoles. + Whitebait. + + + Riz de Veau a la Banquiere. + Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres. + + Canards a la Rouennaise. + Mutton Cutlets a la Jardiniere. + + Braised Beef a la Flamande. + Spring Chickens. + + Roast Quarter of Lamb. + Roast Saddle of Mutton. + + Tongue. + Ham and Peas. + + + Quails, larded. + Roast Ducks. + Turkey Poult, larded. + + Mayonnaise of Chicken. + Tomatas. + Green Peas a la Francaise. + + Suedoise of Strawberries. + Charlotte Russe. + Compote of Cherries. + + Neapolitan Cakes. + Pastry. + Madeira Wine Jelly. + + Iced Pudding a la Nesselrode. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +_Note._--Dinners a la Russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of +serving the various dishes. In a dinner a la Russe, the dishes are cut +up on a sideboard, and handed round to the guests, and each dish may be +considered a course. The table for a dinner a la Russe should be laid +with flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle, together +with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laid +by the side of each guest. + + +MENU. + +2138.--SERVICE A LA RUSSE (November). + + Ox-tail Soup. + Soup a la Jardiniere. + + Turbot and Lobster Sauce. + Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. + + Stewed Eels. + Soles a la Normandie. + + Pike and Cream Sauce. + Fried Filleted Soles. + + + Filets de Boeuf a la Jardiniere. + Croquettes of Game aux Champignons. + + Chicken Cutlets. + Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. + + Lobster Rissoles. + Oyster Patties. + + Partridges aux fines herbes. + Larded Sweetbreads. + + Roast Beef. + Poulets aux Cressons. + + Haunch of Mutton. + Roast Turkey. + + Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. + Ham. + + + Grouse. + Pheasants. + Hare. + + Salad. + Artichokes. + Stewed Celery. + + Italian Cream. + Charlotte aux Pommes. + Compote of Pears. + + Croutes madrees aux Fruits. + Pastry. + Punch Jelly. + + Iced Pudding. + + + DESSERT AND ICES. + + +_Note._--Dinners a la Russe are scarcely suitable for small +establishments; a large number of servants being required to carve; and +to help the guests; besides there being a necessity for more plates, +dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be found in any +other than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service a la +Russe is practicable, there it, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner so +enjoyable as this. + + +SUPPERS. + +2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a very +small expense, provided _taste_ and _ingenuity_ are exercised. The +colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely; there +should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room should +be well lighted. We have endeavoured to show how the various dishes may +be placed; but of course these little matters entirely depend on the +length and width of the table used, on individual taste, whether the +tables are arranged round the room, whether down the centre, with a +cross one at the top, or whether the supper is laid in two separate +rooms, &c. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with the +appearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should be ornamented with +cut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice, and all +the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking +absurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate. Hot +soup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. The +servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand them +to the guests: when these plates are removed, the business of supper +commences. + +2140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing +supper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be +placed on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected which +may be eaten standing without any trouble. The following list may, +perhaps, assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a +standing supper. + +2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, +sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the latter +_all cut up_; dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and +galantine of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards in +glasses, compotes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and several dishes of small +fancy pastry; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or three +sponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented with +vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes are quite +sufficient for a standing supper; where more are desired, a supper must +then be laid and arranged in the usual manner. + + +2142.--BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PERSONS (For Winter) + + Boar's Head, + garnished with Aspic Jelly. + Lobster Salad Lobster Salad. + Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe. + + Small Ham, garnished. + + Small Pastry. Iced Savoy Cake. Biscuits. + + Vanilla Cream EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Fruited Jelly. + + Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. + + Prawns Two Boiled Fowls, with Bechamel Prawns + Sauce. + Biscuits Small Pastry + Tongue, ornamented. + + Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED. Custards, + in glasses. in glasses. + Raised Chicken Pie. + + Tipsy Cake + Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. + Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream. + Roast Pheasant. + + Meringues. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Meringues. + + Raspberry Cream. Galantine of Veal. Fruited Jelly. + + Tipsy Cake. + Small Pastry. Biscuits. + Raised Game Pie. + + Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED Custards, + in glasses. in glasses. + + Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. + Tongue, ornamented. + Prawns. Prawns. + Two Boiled Fowls, with Bechamel + Sauce. + Biscuits. Small Pastry. + EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. + Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. + Fruited Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange. + + Small Ham, garnished. + + Mayonnaise of Fowl. + Charlotte Russe. Fruited Jelly. + Larded Capon. + + +_Note:_ When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienne +may be selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, +Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a la +Romaine may also be added to the list of beverages. + + +2143.--BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER, + +Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or +Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July). + +[Illustration: Containing the following--] + + [Columns 1 and 5] + 4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table. + 4 Jellies, to be placed down the table. + 3 Dishes of Small Pastry. + 3 Fruit Tarts. + 3 Cheesecakes. + 3 Compotes of Fruit. + 3 English Pines. + 20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits. + + [Column 2] + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + Charlotte Russe a la Vanille. + Lobster Salad + Pigeon Pie. + Lobster Salad. + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + Larded Capon. + Lobster Salad. + Pigeon Pie. + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + Savoy Cake. + Lobster Salad. + + [Column 3] + Tongue. + Ribs of Lamb. + Two Roast Fowls. + Mayonnaise of Salmon. + Epergne, with Flowers. + Mayonnaise of Trout. + Tongue, garnished. + Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce. + Collared Eel. + Ham. + Raised Pie. + Two Roast Fowls. + Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. + Mayonnaise of Salmon. + Epergne, with Flowers. + Mayonnaise of Trout. + Tongue. + Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce. + Raised Pie. + Ham, decorated. + Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. + Two Roast Fowls. + Mayonnaise of Salmon. + Epergne, with Flowers. + Mayonnaise of Trout. + Tongue, garnished. + Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce. + Collared Eel. + + [Column 4] + Veal-and-Ham Pie. + Lobster Salad. + Savoy Cake. + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + Lobster Salad. + Boar's Head. + Pigeon Pie. + Lobster Salad. + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + Lobster Salad. + Charlotte Russe a la Vanille. + Veal and Ham Pie. + Dish of Lobster, cut up. + +_Note_.--The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes +as they should be placed on the table; they should be arranged with the +large and high dishes down the centre, and the spaces filled up with the +smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours and +colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together. +This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placing +a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, if +required for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster +salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are +most likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef +should be placed on the buffet, as being something substantial for the +gentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated in +the bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-water +ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, and +lemonade. + + +BREAKFASTS. + +2144. It will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of cold +joints, &c., which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at the +breakfast-table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder may +furnish, should be nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet. +Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-ham +pies, game-and-Rump-steak pies, are all suitable dishes for the +breakfast-table; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. &c. + +2145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in +knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. +Broiled fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c.; +mutton chops and rump-steaks, broiled sheep's kidneys, kidneys a la +maitre d'hotel, sausages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poached +eggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, oeufs-au-plat, +poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c. + +2146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase of +freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, a +nicely-arranged dish of fruit: when strawberries are in season, these +are particularly refreshing; as also grapes, or even currants. + + +LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS. + +2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or a +little hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed on +the table for luncheon, with bread and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. If +a substantial meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may he +served, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. In +families where there is a nursery, the mistress of the house often +partakes of the meal with the children, and makes it her luncheon. In +the summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon, +or, instead of this, a compote of fruit or fruit tart, or pudding. + +2148. Of suppers we have little to say, as we have already given two +bills of fare for a large party, which will answer very well for a +smaller number, by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a +few. Hot suppers are now very little in request, as people now generally +dine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper; at +all events, not one of a substantial kind. Should, however, a bill of +fare be required, one of those under the head of DINNERS, with slight +alterations, will be found to answer for a hot supper. + + +BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS. + +2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of +lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 +tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1 +piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 +cucumbers. + +2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles well +corked; 3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit, +2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in +moulds, 2 blancmanges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold +plum-pudding (this must be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen +plain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter (this, of course, +includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves of household broad, 3 +dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2 +pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb, of tea. +Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make. + +Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic. + +2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, a +bottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, pepper, +salt, good oil, and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a little +ice. It is scarcely necessary to say that plates, tumblers, +wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten; as also +teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk, if this +last-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood. Take 3 +corkscrews. + +2152. _Beverages_.--3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers; +ginger-beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles; 6 +bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne a discretion, and any +other light wine that may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water +can usually be obtained so it is useless to take it. + + + + +DOMESTIC SERVANTS. + + +CHAPTER XLI. + + +2153. It is the custom of "Society" to abuse its servants,--_a facon de +parler_, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather, +and, when rurally inclined, of the crops,--leads matronly ladies, and +ladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable +state, to talk of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over the +greatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men at +their clubs, also, we are told, like to abuse their "fellows," perhaps +not without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity of +intimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state. It is another +conviction of "Society" that the race of good servants has died out, at +least in England, although they do order these things better in France; +that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness, nor the careful and +industrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothers +and great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer know their place; that +the introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more recently, +those ambiguous "materials" and tweeds, have removed the landmarks +between the mistress and her maid, between the master and his man. + +2154. When the distinction really depends on things so insignificant, +this is very probably the case; when the lady of fashion chooses her +footman without any other consideration than his height, shape, and +_tournure_ of his calf, it is not surprising that she should find a +domestic who has no attachment for the family, who considers the figure +he cuts behind her carriage, and the late hours he is compelled to keep, +a full compensation for the wages he exacts, for the food he wastes, and +for the perquisites he can lay his hands on. Nor should the fast young +man, who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turf +and in the tricks of low horse-dealers, be surprised if he is sometimes +the victim of these learned ways. But these are the exceptional cases, +which prove the existence of a better state of things. The great masses +of society among us are not thus deserted; there are few families of +respectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to the nobleman +whose mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain among +their dependents attached and useful servants; and where these are +absent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sensible master +and the kind mistress know, that if servants depend on them for their +means of living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants for +very many of the comforts of life; and that, with a proper amount of +care in choosing servants, and treating them like reasonable beings, and +making slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature, they will, +save in some exceptional case, be tolerably well served, and, in most +instances, surround themselves with attached domestics. + +2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especially +so to men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have always +about them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect than +domestic service to look forward to; to them it presents no degradation, +but the reverse, to be so employed; they are initiated step by step into +the mysteries of the household, with the prospect of rising in the +service, if it is a house admitting of promotion,--to the respectable +position of butler or house-steward. In families of humbler pretensions, +where they must look for promotion elsewhere, they know that can only be +attained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers. Can there be any +stronger security for their good conduct,--any doubt that, in the mass +of domestic servants, good conduct is the rule, the reverse the +exception? + +2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according to +the wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducal +mansion, with a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is the +chamberlain and house-steward, to the occupier of the humbler house, +where a single footman, or even the odd man-of-all-work, is the only +male retainer. The majority of gentlemen's establishments probably +comprise a servant out of livery, or butler, a footman, and coachman, or +coachman and groom, where the horses exceed two or three. + + +DUTIES OF THE BUTLER. + +2157. The domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables at +breakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by the +footman, and see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On taking +away, he removes the tray with the china and plate, for which he is +responsible. At luncheon, he arranges the meal, and waits unassisted, +the footman being now engaged in other duties. At dinner, he places the +silver and plated articles on the table, sees that everything is in its +place, and rectifies what is wrong. He carries in the first dish, and +announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table, and +respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when he +takes his place behind his master's chair on the left, to remove the +covers, handing them to the other attendants to carry out. After the +first course of plates is supplied, his place is at the sideboard to +serve the wines, but only when called on. + +2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell, and hands the +dishes from the table to the other servants to carry away, receiving +from them the second course, which he places on the table, removing the +covers as before, and again taking his place at the sideboard. + +2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives the +dessert from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, with +plates and glasses, and then takes his place behind his master's chair +to hand the wines and ices, while the footman stands behind his mistress +for the same purpose, the other attendants leaving the room. Where the +old-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table, +without any cloth, is still adhered to, the butler should rub off any +marks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert. + +2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles, +or gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usually +be the case. Having served every one with their share of the dessert, +put the fires in order (when these are used), and seen the lights are +all right, at a signal from his master, he and the footman leave the +room. + +2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, and +sees to the lights; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answer +the bell, and attend to the company, while the footman is clearing away +and cleaning the plate and glasses. + +2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime he appears with the candles; +he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all the +fires are safe. + +2163. In addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman is +kept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, to +pay bills, and superintend the other servants. But the real duties of +the butler are in the wine-cellar; there he should be competent to +advise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in; +"fine," bottle, cork, and seal it, and place it in the binns. Brewing, +racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong to his office, as well as +their distribution. These and other drinkables are brought from the +cellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-butler is kept; +and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-book; so +that the book should always show the contents of the cellar. + + 2164. The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a + household. Here, as elsewhere, honesty is the best policy: the + butler should make it his business to understand the proper + treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can + easily do from the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it; + his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of + bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a generous + and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society + than the reputation of a good wine-cellar, and all that is + required is wines well chosen and well cared for; and this a + little knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply. + +2165. The butler, we have said, has charge of the contents of the +cellars, and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition, to fine +down wine in wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places suited to +the sorts. Where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled, it is usual +to return the same number of empty bottles; the butler has not, in this +case, the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sorts +separated; but where the wine is bottled in the house, he will find his +account, not only in keeping them separate, but in rinsing them well, +and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty. + + 2166. There are various modes of fining wine: isinglass, + gelatine, and gum Arabic are all used for the purpose. Whichever + of these articles is used, the process is always the same. + Supposing eggs (the cheapest) to be used,--Draw a gallon or so + of the wine, and mix one quart of it with the whites of four + eggs, by stirring it with a whisk; afterwards, when thoroughly + mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and stir + up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split + stick inserted through the bunghole. Having stirred it + sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off, until + the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that + rise to the surface. When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close + the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three or four days. This + quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or + sherry. The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same + manner, the material being cut into small pieces, and dissolved + in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same manner. + + 2167. _To Bottle Wine_.--Having thoroughly washed and dried the + bottles, supposing they have been before used for the same kind + of wine, provide corks, which will be improved by being slightly + boiled, or at least steeped in hot water,--a wooden hammer or + mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a + hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet, receiving the + liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer, which is + placed in a tub or basin. This operation is best performed by + two persons, one to draw the wine, the other to cork the + bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the + mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub + to prevent waste. The corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the + knee, the bottle placed in it, and the cork, after being + squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet. + + 2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick + piece of muslin is placed in the strainer, to prevent the + viscous grounds from passing into the bottle. + + 2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away + in their respective binns, a layer of sand or sawdust being + placed under the first tier, and another over it; a second tier + is laid over this, protected by a lath, the head of the second + being laid to the bottom of the first; over this another bed of + sawdust is laid, not too thick, another lath; and so on till the + binn is filled. + + 2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its + quality and age. Port wine, old in the wood, will be ready to + drink in five or six months; but if it is a fruity wine, it will + improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to + drink as soon as the "sickness" (as its first condition after + bottling is called) ceases, and will also improve; but the + cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither + too hot nor too cold, but about 55 deg. or 60 deg., and absolutely free + from draughts of cold air. + + +DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN. + +2171. Where a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant, +then, whatever his ostensible position, he is required to make himself +generally useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, +the plate; answer the visitors who call, the drawing-room and parlour +bells; and do all the errands. His life is no sinecure; and a methodical +arrangement of his time will be necessary, in order to perform his many +duties with any satisfaction to himself or his master. + + 2172. The footman only finds himself in stockings, shoes, and + washing. Where silk stockings, or other extra articles of linen + are worn, they are found by the family, as well as his livery, a + working dress, consisting of a pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a + fustian jacket, with a white or jean one for times when he is + liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast; + and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him + any livery had within six months. + +2173. The footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through all +his dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, and +knives and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master's +clothes brushed, the furniture rubbed over; so that he may put aside his +working dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay +the cloth and prepare breakfast for the family. + + 2174. We need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process: three + good brushes and good blacking must be provided; one of the + brushes hard, to brush off the mud; the other soft, to lay on + the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and + each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should + be kept corked up, except when in use, and applied to the brush + with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when put away, rests in a + notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a + good practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a + sponge; then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides, + taking care they are not placed near the fire, or scorched. Much + delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots, so + as to make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part + retain a fresh appearance, with the lining free from hand-marks, + which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes. + + 2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet + sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally + with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing the edge + of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent + polish with blacking. A little milk may also be used with very + good effect for patent leather boots. + + 2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While + cleaning the lower part in the usual manner, protect the tops, + by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing + it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down + over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and + rub out any spots with pumice-stone. If the tops are to be + whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of + pumice-stone in a pint of soft water; if a brown colour is + intended, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, + half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of spirit of + lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk "turned." These + mixtures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with + a rubber made of soft flannel. + + 2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent's or + Masters's machine, which gives very little trouble, and is very + effective; before, however, putting the knives into the machine, + it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little + warm (not hot) water, and then thoroughly wiped: if put into the + machine with any grease on them, it adheres to the brushes, and + consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that + may be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine + must come to pieces, so causing an immense amount of trouble, + which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free + from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for + cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are + so cleaned, see that they are carefully polished, wiped, and + with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from dirt, and + place them in the basket with the handles all one way. + + 2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the + mechanism; after that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an + occasional entire clearing out with hot water: when this is + done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling + again with oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a + soft brush and cloth, and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds, + wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may be cleaned with oil + and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other + ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel + and oil only used, to prevent the removal of the bronze or + enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not lacquered, is cleaned + by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste, or with fine + emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner. A small portion + of sal ammoniac, beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft + water, rubbed over brass ornaments, and heated over a charcoal + fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to + brass-work the brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps, + let the wick be cut evenly all round; as, if left higher in one + place than it is in another, it will cause it to smoke and burn + badly. The lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder, + and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the + purpose. If it can be avoided, never wash the chimneys of a + lamp, as it causes them to crack when they become hot. Small + sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to + use for cleaning the glasses inside, and a clean duster for + polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be + occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed in + cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where + candle-lamps are used, take out the springs occasionally, and + free them well from the grease that adheres to them. + + 2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is + easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft + cloth, or a rubber of old silk; but dining-tables can only be + kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which + warms the wood and removes all spots. + + 2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary + operation. Fine cloths require to be brushed lightly, and with + rather a soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a + hard one is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to + dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in + the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn the + sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the + elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the + folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the collar, + so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double one + half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the + back. + +2181. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now to +clean himself and prepare the breakfast. He lays the cloth on the table; +over it the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, and +then proceeds to wait upon his master, if he has any of the duties of a +valet to perform. + +2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of his duties falls to the +footman's share,--brushing the clothes among others. When the hat is +silk, it requires brushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, it +requires wiping the way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry, +brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it. If the +footman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties, he will +have to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in due +time; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washhand-ewer is +filled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is ready +when required; that towels are at hand; that hair-brushes and combs are +properly cleansed, and in their places; that hot water is ready at the +hour ordered; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place, the clean +linen aired, and the clothes to be worn for the day in their proper +places. After the master has dressed, it will be the footman's duty to +restore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the whole +restored to order. + +2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up the +tea-urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast. +Breakfast over, he removes the tray and other things off the table, +folds up the breakfast-cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweeping +up all crumbs, shaking the cloth, and laying it on the table again, +making up the fire, and sweeping up the hearth. + +2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except where +the footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business, +when, in the absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist. + +2185. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the table +is not too near the fire, if there is one, and that passage-room is +left. A tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle; and this requires +two persons: over this the slips are laid, which are usually removed +preparatory to placing dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks, +and glasses, with five or six plates for each person. This done, he +places chairs enough for the party, distributing them equally on each +side of the table, and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded, within +it a piece of bread or small roll, and a knife on the right side of each +plate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife and fork at the top and +bottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests opposite to +them, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should be at +the top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of the +gentleman next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at the +bottom: it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork; at the +same time, on the right side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for as +many kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round, and a finger-glass +or glass-cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter are +frequently put on the table with the dessert. + +2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, where +that is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everything +he is likely to require. At the expiration of the time, having +communicated with the cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceeds +to take it up with such assistance as he can obtain. Having ascertained +that all is in order, that his own dress is clean and presentable, and +his white cotton gloves are without a stain, he announces in the +drawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respectfully by the door +until the company are seated: he places himself on the left, behind his +master, who is to distribute the soup; where soup and fish are served +together, his place will be at his mistress's left hand; but he must be +on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male or +female, are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his own +servant with him, his place is behind his master's chair, rendering such +assistance to others as he can, while attending to his master's wants +throughout the dinner, so that every guest has what he requires. This +necessitates both activity and intelligence, and should be done without +bustle, without asking any questions, except where it is the custom of +the house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be necessary to +mention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine you +present. + + 2187. Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number + sufficient for the guests, so that each may help themselves, or, + at least, their immediate neighbours. + + DINNERS A LA RUSSE. + + 2188. In some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass, + and ornamented with flowers, the dessert only being placed on + the table, the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard, and + handed round in succession, in courses of soup, fish, entries, + meat, game, and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical, + as fewer dishes are required, the symmetry of the table being + made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes are + also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and + superior attendance, as the wines are also handed round; and + unless the servants are very active and intelligent, many + blunders are likely to be made. (See p. 954.) + + +GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. + +2189. While attentive to all, the footman should be obtrusive to none; +he should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the left +hand and on the left side of the person he serves, and hold it so that +the guest may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, he +should use both hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing is +spilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests. + +2190. Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes; but it is not +expected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he should +have time to notice them, although with the best intentions: thus it +would not be correct, for instance, if he observed that his master took +wine with the ladies all round, as some gentlemen still continue to do, +but stopped at some one:--to nudge him on the shoulder and say, as was +done by the servant of a Scottish gentleman, "What ails you at her in +the green gown?" It will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than for +the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule. + +2191. During dinner each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon should +be changed as soon as he has done with it; the vegetables and sauces +belonging to the different dishes presented without remark to the +guests; and the footman should tread lightly in moving round, and, if +possible, should bear in mind, if there is a wit or humorist of the +party, whose good things keep the table in a roar, that they are not +expected to reach his ears. + + 2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without + shaking the bottle; if crusted, let it be inclined to the + crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In opening + champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop; + properly cooled, the cork is easily extracted without an + explosion; when the cork is out, the mouth of the bottle should + be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm. + +2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook, +who is waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the same +way as before; the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying the +dishes from the kitchen, and handing them to the footman or butler, +whose duty it is to arrange them on the table. After dinner, the +dessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman, who +places himself behind his master's chair, to supply wine and hand round +the ices and other refreshments, all other servants leaving the room. + +2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enters +with the tray, which has been previously prepared; hands the tray round +to the company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generally +poured out, while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. If +it is an ordinary family party, where this social meal is prepared by +the mistress, he carries the urn or kettle, as the case may be; hands +round the toast, or such other eatable as may be required, removing the +whole in the same manner when tea is over. + + 2195. After each meal, the footman's place is in his pantry: + here perfect order should prevail--a place for everything and + everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold water laid + on, is very desirable,--cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls + or tubs of sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and + another for cold water. Have the bowl three parts full of clean + hot water; in this wash all plate and plated articles which are + greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush. + + 2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept, + has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well + as his own, and more constant occupation; he will also have the + arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control, + and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All + his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he + must appear clean, and in a presentable state. After breakfast, + when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in + its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms + requires rubbing. Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be + prepared; and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out + with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out. + + 2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it + requires great care in washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is + best for this operation, one for moderately hot and another for + cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in + the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or + three times, to drain for a few minutes. When sufficiently + drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one, + doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but + nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than + continual reports of breakages, which, of course, must reach + that region. + + 2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender + treatment in cleaning, inasmuch as they are more costly to + replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling + water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper; leave + them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water up and + down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well with + clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry, + polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with a fine + cloth. To remove the crust of port or other wines, add a little + muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some time. + +2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman's +duty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that the +glasses, and sashes, and linings, are free from dust. In receiving +messages at the carriage door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, so +as to comprehend what is said, in order that he may give his directions +to the coachman clearly. When the house he is to call at is reached, he +should knock, and return to the carriage for orders. In closing the door +upon the family, he should see that the handle is securely turned, and +that no part of the ladies' dress is shut in. + +2200. It is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for his +master or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to the +tradespeople; and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness +in doing so, although writing even the simplest message is now the +ordinary and very proper practice. Dean Swift, among his other quaint +directions, all of which are to be read by contraries, recommends a +perusal of all such epistles, in order that you may be the more able to +fulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of Forfarshire had one of +those odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who construed the Dean +of St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when dispatch was of +some importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called her Scotch +Paul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying, +"Now, Andrew, you ken a' aboot it, and needna' stop to open and read it, +but just take it at once." Probably most of the notes you are expected +to carry might, with equal harmlessness, be communicated to you; but it +will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress's +affairs. + +2201. Politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things masters +and mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. When +visitors present themselves, the servant charged with the duty of +opening the door will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation, +if the family are "not at home," or "engaged;" which generally means the +same thing, and might be oftener used with advantage to morals. On the +contrary, if he has no such orders, he will answer affirmatively, open +the door wide to admit them, and precede them to open the door of the +drawing-room. If the family are not there, he will place chairs for +them, open the blinds (if the room is too dark), and intimate civilly +that he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room, +he announces the name of the visitors, having previously acquainted +himself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be very +careful to repeat the names correctly; mispronouncing names is very apt +to give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writer +was once initiated into some of the secrets on the "other side" of a +legal affair in which he took an interest, before he could correct a +mistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor is +departing, the servant should be at hand, ready, when rung for, to open +the door; he should open it with a respectful manner, and close it +gently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold. When several +visitors arrive together, he should take care not to mix up the +different names together, where they belong to the same family, as Mr., +Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each as +distinctly as possible. + +2202. _Receptions and Evening Parties_.--The drawing-rooms being +prepared, the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and such +other arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of the +company, the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointed +approaches. Attendants in the drawing-room, even more than in the +dining-room, should move about actively but noiselessly; no creaking of +shoes, which is an abomination; watching the lights from time to time, +so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if the attendant likes a +game of cribbage or whist himself, he must not interfere in his master +or mistress's game, nor even seem to take an interest in it. We once +knew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game of +cribbage,--John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The lady +was a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed her +favourite amusement. While handing about the tea and toast, John could +not always suppress his disgust at her mistakes. "There is more in that +hand, ma'am," he has been known to say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to count +his nob;" in fact, he identified himself with his mistress's game, and +would have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount. It is not +necessary to adopt his example on this point, although John had many +qualities a good servant might copy with advantage. + + +THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES. + + 2203. THE HORSE is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view + him in his strength, his sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the + most useful to man of all the animal creation; but his delicacy + is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably, + is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he + has been reduced, or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure, bad + feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point of humanity, + not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to + overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest + dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed, well + fed, and well groomed; and he will do well to acquire so much of + stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself. + In a general way, where a horse's coat is habitually rough and + untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable. When + a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is + getting ill or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire + much in the stables, is overfed, and probably eats his litter in + addition to his regular supply of food. + + 2204. _Stables_.--The architectural form of the stables will be + subject to other influences than ours; we confine ourselves, + therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be roomy + in proportion to the number of stalls; warm, with good + ventilation, and perfectly free from cold draughts; the stalls + roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped drainage, so + as to exclude bad smells; a sound ceiling to prevent the + entrance of dust from the hayloft, which is usually above them; + and there should be plenty of light, coming, however, either + from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse's eye. + + 2205. _Heat_.--The first of these objects is attained, if the + stables are kept within a degree or two of 50 deg. in winter, and + 60 deg. in summer; although some grooms insist on a much higher + temperature, in the interests of their own labour. + + 2206. _Ventilation_ is usually attained by the insertion of one + or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and + the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to keep out + rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the + atmosphere, with openings in the walls for the admission of + fresh air: this is still a difficulty, however; for the + effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts + must be avoided. This is sometimes accomplished by means of + hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit + of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and + discharged at the bottom, while, for the admission of fresh air, + the reverse takes place: the fresh by this means gets diffused + and heated before it is discharged into the stable. + + 2207. _The Stalls_ should be divided by partitions of wood-work + eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels, and + nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from its neighbour. + A hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or + iron, occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the + stall, which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized + horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more + generally of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the + stall. The pavement of the stall should be nearly level, with a + slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry, paved + with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy + clinkers, or rubble-stones, laid in strong cement. In the + centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be + firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a + well-trapped drain to carry off the water; the gutter outside + the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped + openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be + from five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to + each stall, pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and + other things in daily use. + + 2208. _A Harness-room_ is indispensable to every stable. It + should be dry and airy, and furnished with a fireplace and + boiler, both for the protection of the harness and to prepare + mashes for the horses when required. The partition-wall should + be boarded where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various + pieces of harness on, with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on, + a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-up + corn-bin. + + 2209. _The furniture_ of a stable with coachhouse, consists of + coach-mops, jacks for raising the wheels, horse-brushes, + spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes, + dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms, + trimming-combs, scissors and pickers, oil-cans and brushes, + harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horse and + carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves + and measures, horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass + lanterns. Over the stables there should be accommodation for the + coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, and he + should be at hand to interfere. + + +DUTIES OF THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND STABLE-BOY. + +2210. _The Establishment_ we have in view will consist of coachman, +groom, and stable-boy, who are capable of keeping in perfect order four +horses, and perhaps the pony. Of this establishment the coachman is +chief. Besides skill in driving, he should possess a good general +knowledge of horses; he has usually to purchase provender, to see that +the horses are regularly fed and properly groomed, watch over their +condition, apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animals +under his charge, and report where he observes symptoms of more serious +ones which he does not understand. He has either to clean the carriage +himself, or see that the stable-boy does it properly. + +2211. _The Groom's_ first duties are to keep his horses in condition; +but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to ride +out with his master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwise +assist in the house: in these cases, he should have the means of +dressing himself, and keeping his clothes entirely away from the +stables. In the morning, about six o'clock, or rather before, the +stables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses fed, first by +cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in the +rack, that the horses may get it out easily; a short time afterwards +their usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. While +this is going on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, and +sweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done every +day, and every corner carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweet +and clean. The real duties of the groom follow: where the horses are not +taken out for early exercise, the work of grooming immediately +commences. "Having tied up the head," to use the excellent description +of the process given by old Barrett, "take a currycomb and curry him all +over the body, to raise the dust, beginning first at the neck, holding +the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry him from the +setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to the +point of the hock; then change your hands, and curry him before, on his +breast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right side +to his left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, and +so all over from the knees and back upwards; after that, go to the far +side and do that likewise. Then take a dead horse's tail, or, failing +that, a cotton dusting-cloth, and strike that away which the currycomb +hath raised. Then take a round brush made of bristles, with a leathern +handle, and dress him all over, both head, body, and legs, to the very +fetlocks, always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it with +the currycomb. In the curry-combing process, as well as brushing, it +must be applied with mildness, especially with fine-skinned horses; +otherwise the tickling irritates them much. The brushing is succeeded by +a hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard, both to take +away loose hairs and lay his coat; then wash your hands in fair water, +and rub him all over while they are wet, as well over the head as the +body. Lastly, take a clean cloth, and rub him all over again till he be +dry; then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding well +from the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressing +them very carefully about the fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel and +dust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints." In addition +to the practice of this old writer, modern grooms add wisping, which +usually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hayband, +untwisted, and again doubled up after being moistened with water: this +is applied to every part of the body, as the brushing had been, by +changing the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry the +hand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed by +sponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush; the whole +being finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth should +now be put on by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside next +you, and, with your right hand to the off side, throw it over his back, +placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level, which +will be about a foot from the tail. Put the roller round, and the +pad-piece under it, about six or eight inches from the fore legs. The +horse's head is now loosened; he is turned about in his stall to have +his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part, including throat, +with the dusting-cloth, finishing by "pulling his ears," which all +horses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop should +be combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on both +sides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. The +horse is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning it +of stains with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and +forelock when necessary, smoothing them down with a brush on which a +little oil has been dropped. + + 2212. Watering usually follows dressing; but some horses refuse + their food until they have drunk: the groom should not, + therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject, but study + the temper and habits of his horse. + + 2213. _Exercise_.--All horses not in work require at least two + hours' exercise daily; and in exercising them a good groom will + put them through the paces to which they have been trained. In + the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop + them, in order to keep them up to their work. With draught + horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot. + + 2214. _Feeding_ must depend on their work, but they require + feeding three times a day, with more or less corn each time, + according to their work. In the fast coaching days it was a + saying among proprietors, that "his belly was the measure of his + food;" but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a + criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances. + Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. of hay in twenty-four + hours, whereas 16 lbs. to 18 lbs. is the utmost which should + have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensive coach proprietor in + Scotland, limited his horses to 4-1/2 lbs. cut straw, 8 lbs. + bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. bruised beans, in the morning and + noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. of the following; viz., 560 + lbs. steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. barley-dust, 40 lbs. cut straw, + and 6 lbs. salt, mixed up together: under this the horses did + their work well. The ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of + oats, about 40 lbs. to the bushel, twice a day, a third feed and + a rack-full of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. or 18 lbs., when + he is in full work. + + 2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question + put, "Do you bruise your oats?" Well, that depends on + circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when + it can get them; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power + of masticating and bruising them, and bolt them whole; thus much + impeding the work of digestion. For an old horse, then, bruise + the oats; for a young one it does no harm and little good. Oats + should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new, + sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they overload the + horse's stomach. Chopped straw mixed with oats, in the + proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses + in full work; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond, + have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the + coat. + + 2216. The water given to a horse merits some attention; it + should not be too cold; hard water is not to be recommended; + stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious; river water is + the best for all purposes; and anything is preferable to spring + water, which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour + or two, and stirred up before using it; a handful of oatmeal + thrown into the pail will much improve its quality. + + 2217. _Shoeing_.--A horse should not be sent on a journey or any + other hard work immediately after new shoeing;--the stiffness + incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down. A + day's rest, with reasonable exercise, will not be thrown away + after this operation. On reaching home very hot, the groom + should walk him about for a few minutes; this done, he should + take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp him + over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: if the cloth + is dipped in some spirit, all the better. He should wash, pick, + and wipe dry the legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper, + and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of + straw under the saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should + have some hay given him, and then a feed of oats: if he refuse + the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal + in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly + cleaned, and his body-clothes put on, and, if very much harassed + with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on + a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly. + + 2218. _Bridles_.--Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit + should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped, to + keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the latter + being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is + again put on. In washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the + master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed + thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and + then rubbed with a brush till quite dry. + + 2219. _Harness_, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a + shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper + harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and + easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining + all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the + walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces + of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the + ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or + hook,--one for the halters, another for the reins, and others + for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden + horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts + should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by + careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite + pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a + soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts + burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil,--steel with + emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil. + + 2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the + leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow + wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb. + of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water, + and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when + mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all + is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. of + good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it + boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add + distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish + paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when + necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine. + + 2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned + before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak + solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river + water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one + or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the + polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a + soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather. + + 2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with + fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with + distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the + leather, which should be polished as above. + + 2223. _For fawn or yellow-coloured leather_, take a quart of + skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when + cold, add to it 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle + gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the + coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve, + and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the + leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off + immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge. + + 2224. _Wheel-grease_ is usually purchased at the shops; but a + good paste is made as follows:--Melt 80 parts of grease, and + stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of + fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use. + This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly + approved. + + 2225. _Carriages_ in an endless variety of shapes and names are + continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or + clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family + carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence + adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of + furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate + upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual + exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets. + +2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting +away, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the +wood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless the +timber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have a +dry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from the +ammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, and +other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. When +the carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, and +that, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done by +first well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away all +particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the +linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using +plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carved +work, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage is +then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so +that the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop +until the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mop +does not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, +and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as +soon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with soft +leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even for +the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stains +are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that +fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more +successful. + +2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed +over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work and +joints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned,--the one +with plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and +leather kept for the purpose,--the other with rottenstone mixed with a +little oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste is +removed; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will be +required to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushing +every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashes +should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree are +carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts +tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled. + +2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman's +office, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in the +carriage depends on his proficiency in his art,--much also of the wear +of the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of the +construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order,--to know, +also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him, +without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving too +much. + +2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, put +his horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round +them, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to the +off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses, +where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot on +the step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely under +control. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, for +where no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually so +arranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, from +the inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an +accident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses. + + 2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his + orders,--in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight + miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting + them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon + these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed + to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very + handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to + answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the + coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials + in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great + satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his + carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of + the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables,--a present. + Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as + ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was + thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a + stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims, + that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse, capable + of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four + miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip + could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to + bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down + occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent + to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the + attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the + pace that kills," is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense + in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed, + when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the + clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with + unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and + sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven + miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of L5 to + the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age," "tool'd" and + horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square + as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way + house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry + to his passengers,--then the pace was indeed "killing." But the + truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that + _elan_ with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are + left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore, + unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart + pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads + this should never be seen. + + 2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they + are properly paired,--that their paces are about equal. When + their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how + he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of + them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the + check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths, + cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he + must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The + reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;" + but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein; + the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and + plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad + driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels + abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and + if no accident occurs, it is great good luck. + +2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that the +mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are +indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses are +guided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed their +intended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strong +though gentle hand on the reins. + +2233. _The Whip_, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred +cattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use; +if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except, +indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does it +effectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, where +there is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, the +coachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horses +stumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed," to go over bad +ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance on +the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to his +own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary, +but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses. + + +DUTIES OF THE VALET. + +2234. _Attendants on the Person_.-"No man is a hero to his valet," saith +the proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to her +maid." The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too +equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which +attendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet and +waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress, +receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in all +their journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguarded +moments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to their +commands,--even to their caprices; they themselves being subject to +erring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can be +expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and a +respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, good +temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others, +whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful +qualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from +sheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequently +more susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is +opposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, +therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, either +in praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good manners +and respectful conduct in their presence. + +2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating +of the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by +seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid +has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns +cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well +to throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to +recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his +duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired +properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and +cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and +waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are +laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of +the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and +stropped, and hot water ready for use. + +2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving +themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he +should, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush +the hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, +arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and +style of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the +hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as +required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the +toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, which +he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, and +boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished. + +2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the +valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed +on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean +handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, +and receive his last orders for the day. + +2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, +cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that +may be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers. + +2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and +appearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his master +permits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for +the occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and +cleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white or +coloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change them +every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove the +crease of the previous fold. The coat collar,--which where the hair is +oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy--should also be examined; a +careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they +appear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified +spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, +and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved and +removed by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of the +spirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a few +drops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of the +grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the +garment. + + 2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet, + and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good, + perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following + recipes:--Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz., sulphuric + acid 1 oz., best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar + 3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen + jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the + mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar, + stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated. + + 241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. each of pounded + galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. of red French vine + (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half + the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2 + lb. each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green + copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the + preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is + dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it + smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior + polishing paste for boots and shoes. + +2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the +commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or +messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually +and promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master +returns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to have +all things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he +brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called, +delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwise +acquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his orders +for the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to have +the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arranged +comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared, +dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in +order that is required for his master's comforts. + + +FEMALE DOMESTICS. + +DUTIES OF THE LADY'S-MAID. + +2243. The duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous, and perhaps more +onerous, than those of the valet; for while the latter is aided by the +tailor, the hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady's-maid +has to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself: she should, +indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a good +hairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with +which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety and +effect. Her first duty in the morning, after having performed her own +toilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the evening +before, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order to +put on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses should +be carefully examined, and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and other +woollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over; but +in general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissues +renders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove the +dust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin +cloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of +merino, or other soft material, of a similar colour, kept for the +purpose. Summer dresses of barege, muslin, mohair, and other light +materials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be tumbled, it must +be ironed afterwards. If the dresses require slight repair, it should be +done at once: "a stitch in time saves nine." + + 2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in + order to remove every particle of dust; but this has probably + been done, as it ought to have been, the night before. Velvet + bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned + with a soft brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is + decorated have been crushed or displaced, or the leaves tumbled, + they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers. + If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near + the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural state + by the hand or a soft brush. + + 2245. _The Chausserie_, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the + few things left to mark her station, and requires special care. + Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or + wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud + wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its + softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish + for applying to ladies' boots, instead of blacking them:--Mix + equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz. + of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly + incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the + hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies' blacking, + which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much + used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they + are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece + of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking + is dry und hardened. + +2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady's-maid +should prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room, +toilet-table, and linen, according to her mistress's wishes and habits. +The details of dressing we need not touch upon,--every lady has her own +mode of doing so; but the maid should move about quietly, perform any +offices about her mistress's person, as lacing stays, gently, and adjust +her linen smoothly. + +2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweeping +the hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placed +her linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles of +dress she is to wear, which will probably have been arranged the +previous evening, the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties. + +2248. _Hairdressing_ is the most important part of the lady's-maid's +office. If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, after +thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, dress it +according to the prevailing fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair is +thoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside, folding the hair back +round the head, brushing it perfectly smooth, giving it a glossy +appearance by the use of pomades, or oil, applied by the palm of the +hand, smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Double +bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward, and rolling it +over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer: it is +finished behind by plaiting the hair, and arranging it in such a manner +as to look well with the head-dress. + +2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not an +unreasonable charge. If a lady's-maid can afford it, we would advise her +to initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering on +her duties. If a mistress finds her maid handy, and willing to learn, +she will not mind the expense of a few lessons, which are almost +necessary, as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is so +continually changing. Brushes and combs should be kept scrupulously +clean, by washing them about twice a week: to do this oftener spoils the +brushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft. + +To wash Brushes. + +2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece the +size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and, +after combing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristles +downwards, into the water and out again, keeping the backs and handles +as free from the water as possible. Repeat this until the bristles look +clean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well, +and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, _but not the bristles_, and +set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the fire; but take care not +to put them too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them +soft, as does also the use of soap. + +To clean Combs. + +2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makes +the teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made, +rough. Small brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be +purchased at a trifling cost: with this the comb should be well brushed, +and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel. + +A good Wash for the Hair. + +2252. INGREDIENTS.--1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1 pint +of boiling water. + +_Mode_.--Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; then +put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with +a flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to +cool, make a very good wash for the hair; as also does rosemary-water +mixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when the +hair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed +in, to make it smooth and glossy. + +To make Pomade for the Hair. + +2253. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent. + +_Mode_.--Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add the +castor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops +of any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which +keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid. + +Another Recipe for Pomatum. + +2254. INGREDIENTS.--8 oz. of olive-oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3 +pennyworth of essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence of +lemon. + +_Mode_.--Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use. + +To make Bandoline. + +2555. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of gum-tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3 +pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum. + +_Mode_.--Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold +water; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence of +almonds; let it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top. +This should make the stock bottle, and when any is required for use, it +is merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until the +desired consistency is obtained, and to keep it in a small bottle, well +corked, for use. This bandoline, instead of injuring the hair, as many +other kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its growth, and making +it always smooth and glossy. + +An excellent Pomatum. + +2256. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of lard, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1/2 pint +of castor-oil, 4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent; +elder-flower water. + +_Mode_.--Wash the lard well in the elder-flower water; drain, and beat +it to a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently to +dissolve the spermaceti, which should be beaten fine in a mortar. Mix +all these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind of +scent may be preferred; and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use, +keeping them well corked. The best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set +the bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will remain good for many +months. + +To promote the Growth of Hair. + +2257. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of +rosemary; a few drops of oil of nutmeg. + +_Mode_.--Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair every +night with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will very +soon sensibly increase. + + 2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some + general advice. In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite + flat, and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned + in front; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured + to the stays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the + folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline + petticoats; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the + slit to prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well + over the arms. If it is finished with a jacket, or other upper + dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the + flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the + hands, so that it falls in graceful folds. In arranging the + petticoat itself, a careful lady's-maid will see that this is + firmly fastened round the waist. + + 2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside + with a pin, so as not to be visible; then raise the bow with the + fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with + brooch or bow in the centre. + +2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfasted +herself, the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogether +upon the habits of the family, in which hardly two will probably agree. +Where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, it +is probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to her +care; that, the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly or +other periodical cleaning; she will, therefore, have to make her +mistress's bed, and keep it in order; and as her duties are light and +easy, there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach to +uncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after her +mistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw the +bed open, by taking off the clothes; open the windows (except in rainy +weather), and leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast, +except her attendance on her mistress prevents it, if the rooms are +carpeted, she should sweep them carefully, having previously strewed the +room with moist tea-leaves, dusting every table and chair, taking care +to penetrate to every corner, and moving every article of furniture that +is portable. This done satisfactorily, and having cleaned the +dressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the ornaments, and made +the glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops, emptied the +water-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the rooms, the +dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper to +appear. + +2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to be +done in the bedroom, in which she will probably be assisted by the +housemaid to make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, she +will study her lady's wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, sloping +or straight, and see that it is done accordingly. + +2262. Having swept the bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables and +chairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left from +yesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her next +care is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing in +her department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may use +her discretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settle +herself down to any work on which she is engaged. This will consist +chiefly in mending; which is first to be seen to; everything, except +stockings, being mended before washing. Plain work will probably be one +of the lady's-maid's chief employments. + + 2263. A waiting-maid, who wishes to make herself useful, will + study the fashion-books with attention, so as to be able to aid + her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to the prevailing + fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance + requires. She will also, if she has her mistress's interest at + heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses + which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning + many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger + branches of the family. The lady's-maid may thus render herself + invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so + doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all + ladies, except those of the very highest rank, will consider + themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person, + capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose. + +2264. Among other duties, the lady's-maid should understand the various +processes for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces; edging of +collars; removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similar +processes, for which the following recipes will be found very useful. In +washing-- + + 2265. _Blonde_, fine toilet-soap is used; the blonde is soaped + over very slightly, and washed in water in which a little + fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when clean, dry + it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in + linen, spread it out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where + the blonde is of better quality, and wider, it may be stretched + on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the + gum with a sponge; or it may be washed finally in water in which + a lump of sugar has been dissolved, which gives it more the + appearance of new blonde. + + 2266. Lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the + neck; they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between + the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing the edges as + directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board, + pinning it at each corner with fine pins; then going carefully + over it with a sponge charged with water in which some + gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved, to give it a proper + consistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the + whole collar should be sponged with the same water, taking care + not to touch the flowers. + +2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, which +should be removed at once. To remove-- + + 2268. _Grease-spots_ from cotton or woollen materials of fast + colours, absorbent pastes, purified bullock's-blood, and even + common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry. When the + colours are not fast, use fuller's-earth or pulverized + potter's-clay, laid in a layer over the spot, and press it with + a very hot iron. + + 2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by + pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine; + cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it with a hot iron, + changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for + a portion of the grease still remains: this will be removed + entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot, and a + very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or + circle will remain; nor will the lustre of the richest silk be + changed, the union of the two liquids operating with no + injurious effects from rubbing. + + 2270. _Fruit-spots_ are removed from white and fast-coloured + cottons by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping + the article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather + dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water, + to prevent the texture of the article being injured. + + 2271. _Ink-spots_ are removed, when fresh applied to the spot, + by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately + afterwards. By the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico + may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent + injury to the fabric. + + 2272. _Wax_ dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is + easily discharged by applying spirits of wine. + + 2273. _Syrups or Preserved Fruits_, by washing in lukewarm water + with a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of + clean linen. + + 2274. _Essence of Lemon_ will remove grease, but will make a + spot itself in a few days. + +To clean Silk or Ribbons. + +2275. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. of honey, 1/2 lb. of soft +soap, 1/2 pint of water. + +_Mode_.--Mix the above ingredients together; then lay each breadth of +silk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on the +soiled side with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water; +take each piece of silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in each +vessel, but do not wring it; and take care that each breadth has one +vessel of quite clean water for the last dip. Hang it up dripping for a +minute or two, then dab it in a cloth, and iron it quickly with a very +hot iron. + +To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth. + +2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirely +discharge a newly-made paint-stain; but, if this is not successful, +apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear. + +To make old Crape look nearly equal to new. + +2277. Place a little water in a teakettle, and let it boil until there +is plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the crape in both +hands, pass it to and fro several times through the steam, and it will +to clean and look nearly equal to new. + +2278. Linen.--Before sending linen to wash, the lady's-maid should see +that everything under her charge is properly mended; for her own sake +she should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, each +class of garments by themselves, with a proper list, of which she +retains a copy. On its return, it is still more necessary to examine +every piece separately, so that all missing buttons be supplied, and +only the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into the +wardrobe. + +2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the +habit of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual for +the maid to accompany them; at all events, it is her duty to pack the +trunks; and this requires not only knowledge but some practice, although +the improved trunks and portmanteaus now made, in which there is a place +for nearly everything, render this more simple than formerly. Before +packing, let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned, and, if necessary, +lined with paper, and everything intended for packing laid out on the +bed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away; the +nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers. Having +satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is in +perfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky +articles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articles +requiring room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up; finally, having +satisfied herself that all is included, she should lock and cover up the +trunk in its canvas case, and then pack her own box, if she is to +accompany her mistress. + +2280. On reaching the house, the lady's-maid will be shown her lady's +apartment; and her duties here are what they were at home; she will +arrange her mistress's things, and learn which is her bell, in order to +go to her when she rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper's +room; and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one +of her mistress or her concerns. Her only occupation here will be +attending in her lady's room, keeping her things in order, and making +her rooms comfortable for her. + +2281. The evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetition +of those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires; +she assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renders +such other assistance as is demanded; removes all slops; takes care that +the fire, if any, is safe, before she retires to rest herself. + +2282. Ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid, and she should +be able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary. +Ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple +requirements. Cleanliness is the first essential: the ironing-board, the +fire, the iron, and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean. +It will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing, as full +directions are given in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid." A lady's-maid +will have a great deal of "Ironing-out" to do; such as light evening +dresses, muslin dresses, &c., which are not dirty enough to be washed, +but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases. In summer, +particularly, an iron will be constantly required, as also a +skirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel. +To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require smoothing out every +time they are worn, particularly if made with many flounces. The +lady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistress +which require care; such as restoring the colour to scorched linen, &c. +&c. The following recipe is, we believe, a very good one. + +To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen. + +2283. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller's-earth, 1 oz. +of dried fowls' dung, 1/2 oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions. + +_Mode._--Boil all these ingredients together to the consistency of +paste; spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if the +threads be not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on, +and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace of +scorching will disappear. + + 2284. _Furs, Feathers, and Woollens_ require the constant care + of the waiting-maid. Furs and feathers not in constant use + should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye. From May to + September they are subject to being made the depositary of the + moth-eggs. They should be looked too, and shaken and beaten, + from time to time, in case some of the eggs should have been + lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up + again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in + brown paper, which is itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks, + which would be damaged by such close folds, must be looked to, + and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening. + +Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths. + +2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather, +tobacco-leaves, bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in the +drawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from moths +are kept, and they will never take harm. + + 2286. _Jewels_ are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in + their cases; but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to + the air, and require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean + soap-suds, using fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold, + silver, gilt, or precious stones into this lye, and dry them by + brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair, or a fine sponge; + afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft + leather. + + 2287. _Epaulettes_ of gold or silver, and, in general, all + articles of jewellery, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits + of wine warmed in a _bain marie,_ or shallow kettle, placed over + a slow fire or hot-plate. + +2288. The valet and lady's-maid, from their supposed influence with +their master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to which +other servants are less subjected. They are probably in communication +with the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet; such as +batters, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The conduct of +waiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent, +making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality, if any such +can be made: they should represent any inconvenience respectfully, and +if an excuse seems unreasonable, put the matter fairly to master or +mistress, leaving it to them to notice it further, if they think it +necessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence them +one way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic to +make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them; the +utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their +judgment in the articles supplied--that they should represent them truly +to master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all, +servility to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a master +and mistress, and to their friends and visitors, is one of the implied +terms of their engagement; and this deference must apply even to what +may be considered their whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear a +hat in the house, in his master's or mistress's presence; nor offer any +opinion, unless asked for it; nor even to say "good night," or "good +morning," except in reply to that salutation. + +To preserve cut Flowers. + +2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a long +time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which a +little charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved. +The vase should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with a +bell-glass, around the edges of which, when it comes in contact with the +plate, a little water should be poured to exclude the air. + +To revive cut Flowers after packing. + +2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water is +cold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of the +stems, and keep them in fresh cold water. + + +UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS. + +2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or more +assistants; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividing +the work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve for +herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture of +the principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that every +department is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends on +the number in the family, as well as on the style in which the +establishment is kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual for +every grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is to +keep her mistress's apartments in order, thus abridging the housemaid's +duties. In others, perhaps, one waiting-maid attends on two or three, +when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite. In fact, every +establishment has some customs peculiar to itself, on which we need not +dwell; the general duties are the _same in all_, perfect cleanliness and +order being the object. + + +DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID. + +2292. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," saith the proverb, and "order" +is in the next degree; the housemaid, then, may be said to be the +handmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are very +numerous, and many of the comforts of the family depend on their +performance; but they are simple and easy to a person naturally clean +and orderly, and desirous of giving satisfaction. In all families, +whatever the habits of the master and mistress, servants will find it +advantageous to rise early; their daily work will thus come easy to +them. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake it, which +throws an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment. Where the +master's time is regulated by early business or professional +engagements, this will, of course, regulate the hours of the servants; +but even where that is not the case, servants will find great personal +convenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderly +and methodical manner. The housemaid who studies her own ease will +certainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and, probably, +half-past six or seven in the winter months, having spent a reasonable +time in her own chamber in dressing. Earlier than this would, probably, +be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter. + +2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters +of all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs of +those rooms which she is going to "do" before breakfast. In some +families, where there is only a cook and housemaid kept, and where the +drawing-rooms are large, the cook has the care of the dining-room, and +the housemaid that of the breakfast-room, library, and drawing-rooms. +After the shutters are all opened, she sweeps the breakfast-room, +sweeping the dust towards the fire-place, of course previously removing +the fonder. She should then lay a cloth (generally made of coarse +wrappering) over the carpet in front of the stove, and on this should +place her housemaid's box, containing black-lead brushes, leathers, +emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaning +a grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side. + +[Illustration: CARPET-BROOMS.] + +2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail, +which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and a +closely-fitting top. In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reserved +for use in the kitchen or under the copper, the ashes only being thrown +away. The cinders disposed of, she proceeds to black-lead the grate, +producing the black lead, the soft brush for laying it on, her blacking +and polishing brushes, from the box which contains her tools. This +housemaid's box should be kept well stocked. Having blackened, brushed, +and polished every part, and made all clean and bright, she now proceeds +to lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polish +to black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowed +to rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish for +grates, may be prepared in the following manner:-- + +[Illustration: STOVE BRUSHES.] + +[Illustration: HOUSEMAID'S BOX.] + +2295. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of common asphaltum, 1/2 pint of linseed oil, +1 quart of oil of turpentine. + +_Mode._--Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other two +ingredients. Apply this with a small painter's brush, and leave it to +become perfectly dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but will +merely require dusting every day, and occasionally brushing with a dry +black-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When they +are required, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will need +black-leading in the usual manner. + + 2296. _Fire-lighting,_ however simple, is an operation requiring + some skill; a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at + the bottom in open order; over this a few pieces of paper, and + over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood; over the wood, + a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave + hollow spaces between for air at the centre; and taking care to + lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the smoke may go + up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper + with a match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon + burn up; the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon + communicating to the coals and cinders, provided there is plenty + of air at the centre. + + 2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised + with advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down, + in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is + arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few + good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer + of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted in the + usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some economy + of fuel, as is said. + +2298. Bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfect +order. A day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dry +leather the polished parts of a grate, as also the fender and +fire-irons. A careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasion +ever to use emery-paper for any part but the bars, which, of course, +become blackened by the fire. (Some mistresses, to save labour, have a +double set of bars, one set bright for the summer, and another black set +to use when fires are in requisition.) When bright grates are once +neglected, small rust-spots begin to show themselves, which a plain +leather will not remove; the following method of cleaning them must then +be resorted to:--First, thoroughly clean with emery-paper; then take a +large smooth pebble from the road, sufficiently large to hold +comfortably in the hand, with which rub the steel backwards and forwards +one way, until the desired polish is obtained. It may appear at first to +scratch, but continue rubbing, and the result will be success. The +following is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steel +articles:-- + +2299. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of turpentine, 1 ditto of sweet oil, +emery powder. + +_Mode._--Mix the turpentine and sweet oil together, stirring in +sufficient emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream. +Put it on the article with a piece of soft flannel, rub off quickly with +another piece, then polish with a little dry emery powder and clean +leather. + +2300. The several fires lighted, the housemaid proceeds with her +dusting, and polishing the several pieces of furniture in the +breakfast-parlour, leaving no corner unvisited. Before sweeping the +carpet, it is a good practice to sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves, +which not only lay all dust, but give a slightly fragrant smell to the +room. It is now in order for the reception of the family; and where +there is neither footman nor parlour-maid, she now proceeds to the +dressing-room, and lights her mistress's fire, if she is in the habit of +having one to dress by. Her mistress is called, hot water placed in the +dressing-room for her use, her clothes--as far as they are under the +house-maid's charge--put before the fire to air, hanging a fire-guard on +the bars where there is one, while she proceeds to prepare the +breakfast. + +2301. In summer the housemaid's work is considerably abridged: she +throws open the windows of the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms, +that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied; +she prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet, rubbing tables +and chairs, dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush, +dusting the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rug; she cleans the +grate when necessary, and replaces the white paper or arranges the +shavings with which it is filled, leaving everything clean and tidy for +breakfast. It is not enough, however, in cleaning furniture, just to +pass lightly over the surface; the rims and legs of tables, and the +backs and legs of chairs and sofas, should be rubbed vigorously daily; +if there is a book-case, every corner of every pane and ledge requires +to be carefully wiped, so that not a speck of dust can be found in the +room. + +2302. After the breakfast-room is finished, the housemaid should proceed +to sweep down the stairs, commencing at the top, whilst the cook has the +charge of the hall, door-step, and passages. After this she should go +into the drawing-room, cover up every article of furniture that is +likely to spoil, with large dusting-sheets, and put the chairs together, +by turning them seat to seat, and, in fact, make as much room as +possible, by placing all the loose furniture in the middle of the room, +whilst she sweeps the corners and sides. When this is accomplished, the +furniture can then be put back in its place, and the middle of the room +swept, sweeping the dirt, as before said, towards the fireplace. The +same rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-room grates as we +have just stated, putting down the cloth, before commencing, to prevent +the carpet from getting soiled. In the country, a room would not require +sweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week; but the housemaid +should go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom, taking up +every crumb and piece she may see. After the sweeping she should leave +the room, shut the door, and proceed to lay the breakfast. Where there +is neither footman nor parlour-maid kept, the duty of laying the +breakfast-cloth rests on the housemaid. + +[Illustration: BANISTER-BROOM.] + +[Illustration: STAIRCASE-BROOM.] + +2303. Before laying the cloth for breakfast, the heater of the tea-urn +is to be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire; or, where the +kettle is used, boiled on the kitchen fire, and then removed to the +parlour, where it is kept hot. Having washed herself free from the dust +arising from the morning's work, the housemaid collects the +breakfast-things on her tray, takes the breakfast-cloth from the napkin +press, and carries them all on the tray into the parlour; arranges them +on the table, placing a sufficiency of knives, forks, and salt-cellars +for the family, and takes the tray back to the pantry; gets a supply of +milk, cream, and bread; fills the butter-dish, taking care that the salt +is plentiful, and soft and dry, and that hot plates and egg-cups are +ready where warm meat or eggs are served, and that butter-knife and +bread-knife are in their places. And now she should give the signal for +breakfast, holding herself ready to fill the urn with hot water, or hand +the kettle, and take in the rolls, toast, and other eatables, with which +the cook supplies her, when the breakfast-room bell rings; bearing in +mind that she is never to enter the parlour with dirty hands or with a +dirty apron, and that everything is to be handed on a tray; that she is +to hand everything she may be required to supply, on the left hand of +the person she is serving, and that all is done quietly and without +bustle or hurry. In some families, where there is a large number to +attend on, the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busy +upstairs in the bedrooms, or sweeping, dusting, and putting the +drawing-room in order. + +2304. Breakfast served, the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers, +throws up the sashes, if not already done, pulls up the blinds, throwing +back curtains at the same time, and opens the beds, by removing the +clothes, placing them over a horse, or, failing that, over the backs of +chairs. She now proceeds to empty the slops. In doing this, everything +is emptied into the slop-pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water for a +minute in such vessels as require it; adding a drop of turpentine to the +water, when that is not sufficient to cleanse them. The basin is +emptied, well rinsed with clean water, and carefully wiped; the ewers +emptied and washed; finally, the water-jugs themselves emptied out and +rinsed, and wiped dry. As soon as this is done, she should remove and +empty the pails, taking care that they also are well washed, scalded, +and wiped as soon as they are empty. + +2305. Next follows bedmaking, at which the cook or kitchen-maid, where +one is kept, usually assists; but, before beginning, velvet chairs, or +other things injured by dust, should be removed to another room. In +bedmaking, the fancy of its occupant should be consulted; some like beds +sloping from the top towards the feet, swelling slightly in the middle; +others, perfectly flat: a good housemaid will accommodate each bed to +the taste of the sleeper, taking care to shake, beat, and turn it well +in the process. Some persons prefer sleeping on the mattress; in which +case a feather bed is usually beneath, resting on a second mattress, and +a straw paillasse at the bottom. In this case, the mattresses should +change places daily; the feather bed placed on the mattress shaken, +beaten, taken up and opened several times, so as thoroughly to separate +the feathers: if too large to be thus handled, the maid should shake and +beat one end first, and then the other, smoothing it afterwards equally +all over into the required shape, and place the mattress gently over it. +Any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put back +through the seam of the tick; she will also be careful to sew up any +stitch that gives way the moment it is discovered. The bedclothes are +laid on, beginning with an under blanket and sheet, which are tucked +under the mattress at the bottom. The bolster is then beaten and shaken, +and put on, the top of the sheet rolled round it, and the sheet tucked +in all round. The pillows and other bedclothes follow, and the +counterpane over all, which should fall in graceful folds, and at equal +distance from the ground all round. The curtains are drawn to the head +and folded neatly across the bed, and the whole finished in a smooth and +graceful manner. Where spring-mattresses are used, care should be taken +that the top one is turned every day. The housemaid should now take up +in a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet; she should dust the +room, shut the door, and proceed to another room. When all the bedrooms +are finished, she should dust the stairs, and polish the handrail of the +banisters, and see that all ledges, window-sills, &c., are quite free +from dust. It will be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work, so +that she may not have too much to do on certain days, and not sufficient +to fill up her time on other days. In the country, bedrooms should be +swept and thoroughly cleaned once a week; and to be methodical and +regular in her work, the housemaid should have certain days for doing +certain rooms thoroughly. For instance, the drawing-room on Monday, two +bedrooms on Tuesday, two on Wednesday, and so on, reserving a day for +thoroughly cleaning the plate, bedroom candlesticks, &c. &c., which she +will have to do where there is no parlour-maid or footman kept. By this +means the work will be divided, and there will be no unnecessary +bustling and hurrying, as is the case where the work is done any time, +without rule or regulation. + +[Illustration: SCRUBBING-BRUSH.] + +2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, the +house-maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed before +it is made; she should then make it, shake the curtains, lay them +smoothly on the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance, so that she +may be able to sweep under the bed. She should then unloop the +window-curtains, shake them, and pin them high up out of the way. After +clearing the dressing-table, and the room altogether of little articles +of china, &c. &c., she should shake the toilet-covers, fold them up, and +lay them on the bed, over which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown. +She should then sweep the room; first of all sprinkling the carpet with +well-squeezed tea-leaves, or a little freshly-pulled grass, when this is +obtainable. After the carpet is swept, and the grate cleaned, she should +wash with soap and water, with a little soda in it, the washing-table +apparatus, removing all marks or fur round the jugs, caused by the +water. The water-bottles and tumblers must also have her attention, as +well as the top of the washing-stand, which should be cleaned with soap +and flannel if it be marble: if of polished mahogany, no soap must be +used. When these are all clean and arranged in their places, the +housemaid should scrub the floor where it is not covered with carpet, +under the beds, and round the wainscot. She should use as little soap +and soda as possible, as too free a use of these articles is liable to +give the boards a black appearance. In the country, cold soft water, a +clean scrubbing-brush, and a willing arm, are all that are required to +make bedroom floors look white. In winter it is not advisable to scrub +rooms too often, as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly at that +season of the year, and nothing is more dangerous than to allow persons +to sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furniture, +blinds, ornaments, &c.; polish the looking-glass; arrange the +toilet-cover and muslin; remove the cover from the bed, and straighten +and arrange the curtains and counterpane. A bedroom should be cleaned +like this every week. There are times, however, when it is necessary to +have the carpet up; this should be done once a year in the country, and +twice a year in large cities. The best time for these arrangements is +spring and autumn, when the bed-furniture requires changing to suit the +seasons of the year. After arranging the furniture, it should all be +well rubbed and polished; and for this purpose the housemaid should +provide herself with an old silk pocket-handkerchief, to finish the +polishing. + +[Illustration: LONG HAIR-BROOM.] + +2307. As modern furniture is now nearly always French-polished, it +should often be rubbed with an old silk rubber, or a fine cloth or +duster, to keep it free from smears. Three or four times a year any of +the following polishes may be applied with very great success, as any of +them make French-polished furniture look very well. One precaution must +be taken,--not to put too much of the polish on at one time, and _to +rub, not smear_ it over the articles. + + +FURNITURE POLISH. + +2308. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 pint of linseed-oil, 1/4 pint of vinegar, 1 oz. +of spirits of salts, 1/2 oz. of muriatic antimony. + +_Mode_.--Mix all well together, and shake before using. + + +FURNITURE POLISH. + +2309. INGREDIENTS.--Equal proportions of linseed-oil, turpentine, +vinegar, and spirits of wine. + +_Mode_.--When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture +with a piece of linen rag, and polish with a clean duster. Vinegar and +oil, rubbed in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a clean +duster, produce a very good polish. + + +FURNITURE PASTE. + +2310. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of common beeswax, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 oz. +of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water. + +[Illustration: FURNITURE BRUSH.] + +_Mode_.--Mix the ingredients together, adding the water when cold; shake +the mixture frequently in the bottle, and do not use it for 48 hours +after it is made. It should be applied with a piece of flannel, the +furniture polished with a duster, and then with an old silk rubber. + +2311. The chambers are finished, the chamber candlesticks brought down +and cleaned, the parlour lamps trimmed;--and here the housemaid's utmost +care is required. In cleaning candlesticks, as in every other cleaning, +she should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone; the +knife used to scrape them should be applied to no other purpose; the +tallow-grease should be thrown into a box kept for the purpose; the same +with everything connected with the lamp-trimming; the best mode of doing +which she will do well to learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil; +always bearing in mind, however, that without perfect cleanliness, which +involves occasional scalding, no lamp can be kept in order. + +2312. The drawing and dining-room, inasmuch as everything there is more +costly and valuable, require even more care. When the carpets are of the +kind known as velvet-pile, they require to be swept firmly by a hard +whisk brush, made of cocoanut fibre. + +2313. The furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with a +soft cloth, that it may be left perfectly free from dust; or where that +is beyond reach, with a brush made of long feathers, or a goose's wing. +The sofas are swept in the same manner, slightly beaten, the cushions +shaken and smoothed, the picture-frames swept, and everything arranged +in its proper place. This, of course, applies to dining as well as +drawing-room and morning-room. And now the housemaid may dress herself +for the day, and prepare for the family dinner, at which she must +attend. + +2314. We need not repeat the long instructions already given for laying +the dinner-table. At the family dinner, even where no footman waits, the +routine will be the same. In most families the cloth is laid with the +slips on each side, with napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine and +finger glasses on all occasions. + +[Illustration: BUTLER'S TRAY AND STAND.] + +2315. She should ascertain that her plate is in order, glasses free from +smears, water-bottles and decanters the same, and everything ready on +her tray, that she may be able to lay her cloth properly. Few things add +more to the neat and comfortable appearance of a dinner-table than +well-polished plate; indeed, the state of the plate is a certain +indication of a well-managed or ill-managed household. Nothing is easier +than to keep plate in good order, and yet many servants, from stupidity +and ignorance, make it the greatest trouble of all things under their +care. It should be remembered, that it is utterly impossible to make +greasy silver take a polish; and that as spoons and forks in daily use +are continually in contact with grease, they must require good washing +in soap-and-water to remove it. Silver should be washed with a soapy +flannel in one water, rinsed in another, and then wiped dry with a dry +cloth. The plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags, as in +the following directions:--Once a week all the plate should receive a +thorough cleaning with the hartshorn powder, as directed in the first +recipe for cleaning plate; and where the housemaid can find time, rubbed +every day with the plate-rags. + + 2316. Hartshorn, we may observe, is one of the best possible + ingredients for plate-powder in daily use. It leaves on the + silver a deep, dark polish, and at the same time does less + injury than anything else. It has also the advantage of being + very cheap; almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes + containing more or less of quicksilver, in some form or another; + and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle. + If any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver + on plate, he has only to rub a little of it on one place for + some time,--on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance, and + he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure. + +To Clean Plate. + +_A very excellent method._ + +[Illustration: PLATE-BRUSH.] + +2317. Wash the plate well to remove all grease, in a strong lather of +common yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it quite dry; then mix as +much hartshorn powder as will be required, into a thick paste, with cold +water or spirits of wine; smear this lightly over the plate with a piece +of soft rag, and leave it for some little time to dry. When perfectly +dry, brush it off quite clean with a soft plate-brush, and polish the +plate with a dry leather. If the plate be very dirty, or much tarnished, +spirits of wine will be found to answer better than the water for mixing +the paste. + +Plate-rags for daily use. + +2318. Boil soft rags (nothing is better for the purpose than the tops of +old cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, in +the proportion of 1 oz. of powder to a pint of milk; boil them for 5 +minutes; wring them as soon as they are taken out, for a moment, in cold +water, and dry them before the fire. With these rags rub the plate +briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried after daily use. A +most beautiful deep polish will be produced, and the plate will require +nothing more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry soft +cloth, before it is again put on the table. + +2319. For waiting at table, the housemaid should be neatly and cleanly +dressed, and, if possible, her dress made with closed sleeves, the large +open ones dipping and falling into everything on the table, and being +very much in the way. She should not wear creaking boots, and should +move about the room as noiselessly as possible, anticipating people's +wants by handing them things without being asked for them, and +altogether be as quiet as possible. It will be needless here to repeat +what we have already said respecting waiting at table, in the duties of +the butler and footman: rules that are good to be observed by them, are +equally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid. + +2320. The housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table, will +hand the soup, fish, meat, or side-dishes to the different members of +the family; but in families who do not spend much of the day together, +they will probably prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast; the +housemaid will be required, after all are helped, if her master does not +wish her to stay in the room, to go on with her work of cleaning up in +the pantry, and answer the bell when rung. In this case she will place a +pile of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter, within reach of her master +and mistress, and leave the room. + +[Illustration: CRUMB-BRUSH]. + +2321. Dinner over, the housemaid removes the plates and dishes on the +tray, places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them, +folds up the napkins in the ring which indicates by which member of the +family it has been used, brushes off the crumbs on the hand-tray kept +for the purpose, folds up the table-cloth in the folds already made, and +places it in the linen-press to be smoothed out. After every meal the +table should be rubbed, all marks from hot plates removed, and the +table-cover thrown over, and the room restored to its usual order. If +the family retire to the drawing-room, or any other room, it is a good +practice to throw up the sash to admit fresh air and ventilate the room. + +2322. The housemaid's evening service consists in washing up the +dinner-things, the plate, plated articles, and glasses, restoring +everything to its place; cleaning up her pantry, and putting away +everything for use when next required; lastly, preparing for tea, as the +time approaches, by setting the things out on the tray, getting the urn +or kettle ready, with cream and other things usually partaken of at that +meal. + +2323. In summer-time the windows of all the bedrooms, which have been +closed during the heat of the day, should be thrown open for an hour or +so after sunset, in order to air them. Before dark they should be +closed, the bedclothes turned down, and the night-clothes laid in order +for use when required. During winter, where fires are required in the +dressing-rooms, they should be lighted an hour before the usual time of +retiring, placing a fire-guard before each fire. At the same time, the +night-things on the horse should be placed before it to be aired, with a +tin can of hot water, if the mistress is in the habit of washing before +going to bed. We may add, that there is no greater preservative of +beauty than washing the face every night in hot water. The housemaid +will probably be required to assist her mistress to undress and put her +dress in order for the morrow; in which case her duties are very much +those of the lady's-maid. + +2324. And now the fire is made up for the night, the fireguard replaced, +and everything in the room in order for the night, the housemaid taking +care to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenient +place, should they be required. It is usual in summer to remove all +highly fragrant flowers from sleeping-rooms, the impression being that +their scent is injurious in a close chamber. + +2325. On leisure days, the housemaid should be able to do some +needlework for her mistress,--such as turning and mending sheets and +darning the house linen, or assist her in anything she may think fit to +give her to do. For this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid, +in a small family, should be an expert needlewoman; as, if she be a good +manager and an active girl, she will have time on her hands to get +through plenty of work. + +2326. _Periodical Cleanings_.--Besides the daily routine which we have +described, there are portions of every house which can only be +thoroughly cleaned occasionally; at which time the whole house usually +undergoes a more thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way. +On these occasions it is usual to begin at the top of the house and +clean downwards; moving everything out of the room; washing the +wainscoting or paint with soft soap and water; pulling down the beds and +thoroughly cleansing all the joints; "scrubbing" the floor; beating +feather beds, mattress, and paillasse, and thoroughly purifying every +article of furniture before it is put back in its place. + +2327. This general cleaning usually takes place in the spring or early +summer, when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light and +cheerful muslin curtains. Carpets are at the same time taken up and +beaten, except where the mistress of the house has been worried into an +experiment by the often-reiterated question, "Why beat your carpets?" In +this case she will probably have made up her mind to try the cleaning +process, and arranged with the company to send for them on the morning +when cleaning commenced. It is hardly necessary to repeat, that on this +occasion every article is to be gone over, the French-polished furniture +well rubbed and polished. The same thorough system of cleaning should be +done throughout the house; the walls cleaned where painted, and swept +down with a soft broom or feather brush where papered; the window and +bed curtains, which have been replaced with muslin ones, carefully +brushed, or, if they require it, cleaned; lamps not likely to be +required, washed out with hot water, dried, and cleaned. The several +grates are now to be furnished with their summer ornaments; and we know +none prettier than the following, which the housemaid may provide at a +small expense to her mistress:--Purchase two yards and a half of +crinoline muslin, and tear it into small strips, the selvage way of the +material, about an inch wide; strip this thread by thread on each side, +leaving the four centre threads; this gives about six-and-thirty pieces, +fringed on each side, which are tied together at one end, and fastened +to the trap of the register, while the threads, unravelled, are spread +gracefully about the grate, the lower part of which is filled with paper +shavings. This makes a very elegant and very cheap ornament, which is +much stronger, besides, than those usually purchased. + +[Illustration: CORNICE-BRUSH.] + +[Illustration: HOUSE-PAIL.] + +[Illustration: DUSTING-BRUSH.] + +2328. As winter approaches, this house-cleaning will have to be +repeated, and the warm bed and window curtains replaced. The process of +scouring and cleaning is again necessary, and must be gone through, +beginning at the top, and going through the house, down to the kitchens. + +2329. Independently of these daily and periodical cleanings, other +occupations will present themselves from time to time, which the +housemaid will have to perform. When spots show on polished furniture, +they can generally be restored by soap-and-water and a sponge, the +polish being brought out by using a little polish, and then well rubbing +it. Again, drawers which draw out stiffly may be made to move more +easily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little soap. + +2330. Chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected and +replaced, by means of a little glue applied to it. Liquid glue, which is +sold prepared in bottles, is very useful to have in the house, as it +requires no melting; and anything broken can be so quickly repaired. + +2331. Breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing that +can happen in a family, and it is, probably, a greater annoyance to a +right-minded servant than to the mistress. A neat-handed housemaid may +sometimes repair these breakages, where they are not broken in very +conspicuous places, by joining the pieces very neatly together with a +cement made as follows:--Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantity +of highly-rectified spirits of wine; then soften an ounce of isinglass +in warm water, and, finally, dissolve it in rum or brandy, till it forms +a thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and gum mastic together, adding a +quarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum ammoniac; put the whole into +an earthen pipkin, and in a warm place, till they are thoroughly +incorporated together; pour it into a small phial, and cork it down for +use. + +2332. In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver +teaspoon over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or china +being warmed, and touched with the now liquid cement, join the parts +neatly together, and hold in their places till the cement has set; then +wipe away the cement adhering to the edge of the joint, and leave it for +twelve hours without touching it: the joint will be as strong as the +china itself, and if neatly done, it will show no joining. It is +essential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with hot or cold +water. + + +USEFUL RECIPES FOR HOUSEMAIDS. + +To clean Marble. + +2333. Mix with 1/4 pint of soap lees, 1/2 gill of turpentine, sufficient +pipe-clay and bullock's gall to make the whole into rather a thick +paste. Apply it to the marble with a soft brush, and after a day or two, +when quite dry, rub it off with a soft rag. Apply this a second or third +time till the marble is quite clean. + + +Another method. + +2334. Take two parts of soda, one of pumice-stone, and one of +finely-powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them +into a paste with water. Rub this well all over the marble, and the +stains will be removed; then wash it with soap-and-water, and a +beautiful bright polish will be produced. + + +To clean Floorcloth. + +2335. After having washed the floorcloth in the usual manner with a damp +flannel, wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth, +when a most beautiful polish will be brought out. Some persons use for +rubbing a well-waxed flannel; but this in general produces an unpleasant +slipperiness, which is not the case with the milk. + + +To clean Decanters. + +2336. Roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper; wet +them, and soap them well. Put them into the decanters about one quarter +full of warm water; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse with +clear cold water; wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth, put the +decanters to drain, and when dry they will be almost as bright as new +ones. + + +To brighten Gilt Frames. + +2337. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about +1-1/2 pint of water, and in this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic, +which will answer the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, +when cold, wash, with a soft brush, any gilding which requires +restoring, and when dry it will come out as bright as new work. + + +To preserve bright Grates or Fire-irons from Rust. + +2338. Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine brush +smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiring +preservation. By this simple means, all the grates and fire-irons in an +empty house may be kept for months free from harm, without further care +or attention. + + +German Furniture-Gloss. + +2339. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. yellow wax, 1 oz. black rosin, 2 oz. of oil +of turpentine. + +_Mode_.--Cut the wax into small pieces, and melt it in a pipkin, with +the rosin pounded very fine. Stir in gradually, while these two +ingredients are quite warm, the oil of turpentine. Keep this composition +well covered for use in a tin or earthen pot. A little of this gloss +should be spread on a piece of coarse woollen cloth, and the furniture +well rubbed with it; afterwards it should be polished with a fine cloth. + + +DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WORK. + +2340. The general servant, or maid-of-all-work, is perhaps the only one +of her class deserving of commiseration: her life is a solitary one, and +in, some places, her work is never done. She is also subject to rougher +treatment than either the house or kitchen-maid, especially in her +earlier career: she starts in life, probably a girl of thirteen, with +some small tradesman's wife as her mistress, just a step above her in +the social scale; and although the class contains among them many +excellent, kind-hearted women, it also contains some very rough +specimens of the feminine gender, and to some of these it occasionally +falls to give our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifarious +occupations: the mistress's commands are the measure of the +maid-of-all-work's duties. By the time she has become a tolerable +servant, she is probably engaged in some respectable tradesman's house, +where she has to rise with the lark, for she has to do in her own person +all the work which in larger establishments is performed by cook, +kitchen-maid, and housemaid, and occasionally the part of a footman's +duty, which consists in carrying messages. + +2341. The general servant's duties commence by opening the shutters (and +windows, if the weather permits) of all the lower apartments in the +house; she should then brush up her kitchen-range, light the fire, clear +away the ashes, clean the hearth, and polish with a leather the bright +parts of the range, doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible, +that no more time be wasted than is necessary. After putting on the +kettle, she should then proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get it +in order for breakfast. She should first roll up the rug, take up the +fender, shake and fold up the table-cloth, then sweep the room, carrying +the dirt towards the fireplace; a coarse cloth should then be laid down +over the carpet, and she should proceed to clean the grate, having all +her utensils close to her. When the grate is finished, the ashes cleared +away, the hearth cleaned, and the fender put back in its place, she must +dust the furniture, not omitting the legs of the tables and chairs; and +if there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard, she must not dust +round them, but lift them up on to another place, dust well where they +have been standing, and then replace the things. Nothing annoys a +particular mistress so much as to find, when she comes down stairs, +different articles of furniture looking as if they had never been +dusted. If the servant is at all methodical, and gets into a habit of +_doing_ a room in a certain way, she will scarcely ever leave her duties +neglected. After the rug is put down, the table-cloth arranged, and +everything in order, she should lay the cloth for breakfast, and then +shut the dining-room door. + +2342. The hall must now be swept, the mats shaken, the door-step +cleaned, and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather. +If the family breakfast very early, the tidying of the hall must then be +deferred till after that meal. After cleaning the boots that are +absolutely required, the servant should now wash her hands and face, put +on a clean white apron, and be ready for her mistress when she comes +down stairs. In families where there is much work to do before +breakfast, the master of the house frequently has two pairs of boots in +wear, so that they may be properly cleaned when the servant has more +time to do them, in the daytime. This arrangement is, perhaps, scarcely +necessary in the summer-time, when there are no grates to clean every +morning; but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and thoughtful +to lighten a servant-of-all-work's duties as much as possible. + +[Illustration: BLACKING-BRUSH BOX.] + +2343. She will now carry the urn into the dining-room, where her +mistress will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes will boil the eggs, +to insure them being done to her liking. In the mean time the servant +cooks, if required, the bacon, kidneys, fish, &c.;--if cold meat is to +be served, she must always send it to table on a clean dish, and nicely +garnished with tufts of parsley, if this is obtainable. + +2344. After she has had her own breakfast, and whilst the family are +finishing theirs, she should go upstairs into the bedrooms, open all the +windows, strip the clothes off the beds, and leave them to air whilst +she is clearing away the breakfast things. She should then take up the +crumbs in a dustpan from under the table, put the chairs in their +places, and sweep up the hearth. + +2345. The breakfast things washed up, the kitchen should be tidied, so +that it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders for +the day: after receiving these orders, the servant should go upstairs +again, with a jug of boiling water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. After +emptying the slops, and scalding the vessels with the boiling water, and +wiping them thoroughly dry, she should wipe the top of the wash-table +and arrange it all in order. She then proceeds to make the beds, in +which occupation she is generally assisted by the mistress, or, if she +have any daughters, by one of them. Before commencing to make the bed, +the servant should put on a large bed-apron, kept for this purpose only, +which should be made very wide, to button round the waist and meet +behind, while it should be made as long as the dress. By adopting this +plan, the blacks and dirt on servants' dresses (which at all times it is +impossible to help) will not rub off on to the bed-clothes, mattresses, +and bed furniture. When the beds are made, the rooms should be dusted, +the stairs lightly swept down, hall furniture, closets, &c., dusted. The +lady of the house, where there is but one servant kept, frequently takes +charge of the drawing-room herself, that is to say, dusting it; the +servant sweeping, cleaning windows, looking-glasses, grates, and rough +work of that sort. If there are many ornaments and knick-knacks about +the room, it is certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself, +as a maid-of-all-work's hands are not always in a condition to handle +delicate ornaments. + +2346. Now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is in +order, the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of the +dinner, in which very often her mistress will assist her. She should put +on a coarse apron with a bib to do her dirty work in, which may be +easily replaced by a white one if required. + +2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should lay the cloth, +that everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner, +and take all into the dining-room that is likely to be required, in the +way of knives, forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, &c. &c. By exercising +a little forethought, much confusion and trouble may be saved both to +mistress and servant, by getting everything ready for the dinner in good +time. + +2348. After taking in the dinner, when every one is seated, she removes +the covers, hands the plates round, and pours out the beer; and should +be careful to hand everything on the left side of the person she is +waiting on. + +2349. We need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in the +dining-room during the whole of dinner-time, as she must dish up her +pudding, or whatever is served after the first course. When she sees +every one helped, she should leave the room to make her preparations for +the next course; and anything that is required, such as bread, &c., +people may assist themselves to in the absence of the servant. + +2350. When the dinner things are cleared away, the servant should sweep +up the crumbs in the dining-room, sweep the hearth, and lightly dust the +furniture, then sit down to her own dinner. + +[Illustration: KNIFE-CLEANING MACHINE] + +2351. After this, she washes up and puts away the dinner things, sweeps +the kitchen, dusts and tidies it, and puts on the kettle for tea. She +should now, before dressing herself for the afternoon, clean her knives, +boots, and shoes, and do any other dirty work in the scullery that may +be necessary. Knife-cleaning machines are rapidly taking the place, in +most households, of the old knife-board. The saving of labour by the +knife-cleaner is very great, and its performance of the work is very +satisfactory. Small and large machines are manufactured, some cleaning +only four knives, whilst others clean as many as twelve at once. Nothing +can be more simple than the process of machine knife-cleaning; and +although, in a very limited household, the substitution of the machine +for the board may not be necessary, yet we should advise all +housekeepers, to whom the outlay is not a difficulty, to avail +themselves of the services of a machine. We have already spoken of its +management in the "Duties of the Footman," No. 2177. + +2352. When the servant is dressed, she takes in the tea, and after tea +turns down the beds, sees that the water-jugs and bottles are full, +closes the windows, and draws down the blinds. If the weather is very +warm, these are usually left open until the last thing at night, to cool +the rooms. + +2353. The routine of a general servant's duties depends upon the kind of +situation she occupies; but a systematic maid-of-all-work should so +contrive to divide her work, that every day in the week may have its +proper share. By this means she is able to keep the house clean with +less fatigue to herself than if she left all the cleaning to do at the +end of the week. Supposing there are five bedrooms in the house, two +sitting-rooms, kitchen, scullery, and the usual domestic offices:--on +Monday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room; on Tuesday, two of +the bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on Thursday, the other bedroom and +stairs; on Friday morning she should sweep the dining-room very +thoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon her kitchen tins and +bright utensils. By arranging her work in this manner, no undue +proportion will fall to Saturday's share, and she will then have this +day for cleaning plate, cleaning her kitchen, and arranging everything +in nice order. The regular work must, of course, be performed in the +usual manner, as we have endeavoured to describe. + +2354. Before retiring to bed, she will do well to clean up glasses, +plates, &c. which have been used for the evening meal, and prepare for +her morning's work by placing her wood near the fire, on the hob, to +dry, taking care there is no danger of it igniting, before she leaves +the kitchen for the night. Before retiring, she will have to lock and +bolt the doors, unless the master undertakes this office himself. + +2355. If the washing, or even a portion of it, is done at home, it will +be impossible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household duties +thoroughly, during the time it is about, unless she have some +assistance. Usually, if all the washing is done at home, the mistress +hires some one to assist at the wash-tub, and sees to little matters +herself, in the way of dusting, clearing away breakfast things, folding, +starching, and ironing the fine things. With a little management much +can be accomplished, provided the mistress be industrious, energetic, +and willing to lend a helping hand. Let washing-week be not the excuse +for having everything in a muddle; and although "things" cannot be +cleaned so thoroughly, and so much time spent upon them, as ordinarily, +yet the house may be kept tidy and clear from litter without a great +deal of exertion either on the part of the mistress or servant. We will +conclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably-written book, +called "Home Truths for Home Peace." The authoress says, with respect to +the great wash--"Amongst all the occasions in which it is most difficult +and glorious to keep muddle out of a family, 'the great wash' stands +pre-eminent; and as very little money is now saved by having +_everything_ done at home, many ladies, with the option of taking +another servant or putting out the chief part of the washing, have +thankfully adopted the latter course." She goes on to say--"When a +gentleman who dines at home can't bear washing in the house, but gladly +pays for its being done elsewhere, the lady should gratefully submit to +his wishes, and put out anything in her whole establishment rather than +put out a good and generous husband." + +2356. A bustling and active girl will always find time to do a little +needlework for herself, if she lives with consistent and reasonable +people. In the summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two or +three hours, and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days. A +general servant's duties are so multifarious, that unless she be quick +and active, she will not be able to accomplish this. To discharge these +various duties properly is a difficult task, and sometimes a thankless +office; but it must be remembered that a good maid-of-all-work will make +a good servant in any capacity, and may be safely taken not only without +fear of failure, but with every probability of giving satisfaction to +her employer. + + +DUTIES OF THE DAIRY-MAID. + +2357. The duties of the dairy-maid differ considerably in different +districts. In Scotland, Wales, and some of the northern counties, women +milk the cows. On some of the large dairy farms in other parts of +England, she takes her share in the milking, but in private families the +milking is generally performed by the cowkeeper, and the dairy-maid only +receives the milkpails from him morning and night, and empties and +cleans them preparatory to the next milking; her duty being to supply +the family with milk, cream, and butter, and other luxuries depending on +the "milky mothers" of the herd. + + 2358. _The Dairy._--The object with which gentlemen keep cows is + to procure milk unadulterated, and sweet butter, for themselves + and families: in order to obtain this, however, great + cleanliness is required, and as visitors, as well as the + mistress of the house, sometimes visit the dairy, some efforts + are usually made to render it ornamental and picturesque. The + locality is usually fixed near to the house; it should neither + be exposed to the fierce heat of the summer's sun nor to the + equally unfavourable frosts of winter--it must be both sheltered + and shaded. If it is a building apart from the house and other + offices, the walls should be tolerably thick, and if hollow, the + temperature will be more equable. The walls inside are usually + covered with Dutch glazed tiles; the flooring also of glazed + tiles set in asphalte, to resist water; and the ceiling, lath + and plaster, or closely-jointed woodwork, painted. Its + architecture will be a matter of fancy: it should have a + northern aspect, and a thatched roof is considered most + suitable, from the shade and shelter it affords; and it should + contain at least two apartments, besides a cool place for + storing away butter. One of the apartments, in which the milk is + placed to deposit cream, or to ripen for churning, is usually + surrounded by shelves of marble or slate, on which the + milk-dishes rest; but it will be found a better plan to have a + large square or round table of stone in the centre, with a + water-tight ledge all round it, in which water may remain in hot + weather, or, if some attempt at the picturesque is desired, a + small fountain might occupy the centre, which would keep the + apartment cool and fresh. Round this table the milk-dishes + should be ranged; one shelf, or dresser, of slate or marble, + being kept for the various occupations of the dairy-maid: it + will be found a better plan than putting them on shelves and + corners against the wall. There should be a funnel or ventilator + in the ceiling, communicating with the open air, made to open + and shut as required. Double windows are recommended, but of the + lattice kind, so that they may open, and with wire-gauze blinds + fitted into the opening, and calico blinds, which may be wetted + when additional coolness is required. The other apartment will + be used for churning, washing, and scrubbing--in fact, the + scullery of the dairy, with a boiler for hot water, and a sink + with cold water laid on, which should be plentiful and good. In + some dairies a third apartment, or, at least, a cool airy + pantry, is required for storing away butter, with shelves of + marble or slate, to hold the cream-jars while it is ripening; + and where cheeses are made, a fourth becomes necessary. The + dairy utensils are not numerous,--_churns_, _milk-pails_ for + each cow, _hair-sieves_, _slices of tin_, milk-pans, marble + dishes for cream for family use, scales and weights, a portable + rack for drying the utensils, _wooden bowls_, butter-moulds and + butter-patters, and _wooden tubs_ for washing the utensils, + comprising pretty nearly everything. + + 2359. _Pails_ are made of maple-wood or elm, and hooped, or of + tin, more or less ornamented. One is required for each cow. + + 2360. The _Hair-Sieve_ is made of closely-twisted horse-hair, + with a rim, through which the milk is strained to remove any + hairs which may have dropped from the cow in milking. + + 2361. _Milk-Dishes_ are shallow basins of glass, of glazed + earthenware, or tin, about 16 inches in diameter at top, and 12 + at the bottom, and 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8 to 10 + quarts each when full. + + 2362. _Churns_ are of all sorts and sizes, from that which + churns 70 or 80 gallons by means of a strap from the engine, to + the square box in which a pound of butter is made. The churn + used for families is a square box, 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17 + deep, bevelled below to the plane of the _dashers_, with a loose + lid or cover. The dasher consists of an axis of wood, to which + the four beaters or fanners are attached; these fans are simply + four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together, forming an + oblong square, with a space left open, two of the openings being + left broader than the others; attached to an axle, they form an + axis with four projecting blades; the axle fits into supports at + the centre of the box; a handle is fitted to it, and the act of + churning is done by turning the handle. + + 2363. Such is the temple in which the dairy-maid presides: it + should be removed both from stable and cowhouse, and larder; no + animal smells should come near it, and the drainage should be + perfect. + +2364. The dairy-maid receives the milk from the cowkeeper, each pail +being strained through the hair-sieve into one of the milk-basins. This +is left in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the +summer, according to the weather; after which it is skimmed off by means +of the slicer, and poured into glazed earthenware jars to "turn" for +churning. Some persons prefer making up a separate churning for the milk +of each cow; in which there is some advantage. In this case the basins +of each cow, for two days, would either be kept together or labelled. As +soon as emptied, the pails should be scalded and every particle of milk +washed out, and placed away in a dry place till next required; and all +milk spilt on the floor, or on the table or dresser, cleaned up with a +cloth and hot water. Where very great attention is paid to the dairy, +the milk-coolers are used larger in winter, when it is desirable to +retard the cooling down and increase the creamy deposit, and smaller in +summer, to hasten it; the temperature required being from 55 deg. to 50 deg., In +summer it is sometimes expedient, in very sultry weather, to keep the +dairy fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of lime +across the room. + +2365. In some dairies it is usual to churn twice, and in others three +times a week: the former produces the best butter, the other the +greatest quantity. With three cows, the produce should be 27 to 30 +quarts a day. The dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot, if +they are in full milk, and every second day in more temperate weather; +besides supplying the milk and cream required for a large establishment. +The churning should always be done in the morning: the dairy-maid will +find it advantageous in being at work on churning mornings by five +o'clock. The operation occupies from 20 minutes to half an hour in +summer, and considerably longer in winter. A steady uniform motion is +necessary to produce sweet butter; neither too quick nor too slow. Rapid +motion causes the cream to heave and swell, from too much air being +forced into it: the result is a tedious churning, and soft, bad-coloured +butter. + +2366. In spring and summer, when the cow has her natural food, no +artificial colour is required; but in winter, under stall-feeding, the +colour is white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour. +This is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the +cream before putting it into the churn; a still more, natural and +delicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a clean +piece of linen cloth, dipping it into water, and squeezing it into the +cream. + +2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and the +butter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water, +in which it is washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewing +it until it comes away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing is +the frequent cause of bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of the +dairy-maid tested more than in this process; moreover, it is one in +which cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary. In this +operation we want the aid of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly clean +hand; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sour +particles of milk or curd. + +2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milk +is disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a, +very wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; the +disposal, therefore, will rest with the mistress: the dairy-maid's duty +is to get rid of it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrub +out every utensil she has used; brush out the churn, clean out the +cream-jars, which will probably require the use of a little common soda +to purify; wipe all dry, and place them in a position where the sun can +reach them for a short time, to sweeten them. + + 2369. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk + is always scalded. The milk-pans, which are of tin, and contain + from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12 hours, are placed + on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed + on the surface, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising + through the milk, and producing blisters on the surface-coating + of cream. This indicates its approach to the boiling point: and + the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is, + quite cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice: it is now + the clouted cream for which Devonshire is so famous. It is now + placed in the churn, and churned until the butter comes, which + it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other + process. The butter so made contains more _caseine_ than butter + made in the usual way, but does not keep so long. + +2370. It is a question frequently discussed, how far it is economical +for families to keep cows and make their own butter. It is calculated +that a good cow costs from May 1 to October 1, when well but +economically kept, L5. 16s. 6d; and from October 1 to April 30, L10. 2s. +6d. During that time she should produce 227 lbs. of butter, besides the +skimmed milk. Of course, if new milk and cream are required, that will +diminish the quantity of butter. + +2371. Besides churning and keeping her dairy in order, the dairy-maid +has charge of the whole produce, handing it over to the cook, butler, or +housemaid as required; and she will do well to keep an exact account +both of what she receives and how and when she disposes of it. + + +DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID. + +2372. The laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing and +getting-up the family linen,--a situation of great importance where the +washing is all done at home; but in large towns, where there is little +convenience for bleaching and drying, it is chiefly done by professional +laundresses and companies, who apply mechanical and chemical processes +to the purpose. These processes, however, are supposed to injure the +fabric of the linen; and in many families the fine linen, cottons, and +muslins, are washed and got-up at home, even where the bulk of the +washing is given out. In country and suburban houses, where greater +conveniences exist, washing at home is more common,--in country places +universal. + +2373. The laundry establishment consists of a washing-house, an ironing +and drying-room, and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces. The +washing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen; but it is better +that it should be completely detached from it, and of one story, with a +funnel or shaft to carry off the steam. It will be of a size +proportioned to the extent of the washing to be done. A range of tubs, +either round or oblong, opposite to, and sloping towards, the light, +narrower at the bottom than the top, for convenience in stooping over, +and fixed at a height suited to the convenience of the women using them; +each tub having a tap for hot and cold water, and another in the bottom, +communicating with the drains, for drawing off foul water. A boiler and +furnace, proportioned in size to the wants of the family, should also be +fixed. The flooring should be York stone, laid on brick piers, with good +drainage, or asphalte, sloping gently towards a gutter connected with +the drain. + +2374. Adjoining the bleaching-house, a second room, about the same size, +is required for ironing, drying, and mangling. The contents of this room +should comprise an ironing-board, opposite to the light; a strong white +deal table, about twelve or fourteen feet long, and about three and a +half feet broad, with drawers for ironing-blankets; a mangle in one +corner, and clothes-horses for drying and airing; cupboards for holding +the various irons, starch, and other articles used in ironing; a +hot-plate built in the chimney, with furnace beneath it for heating the +irons; sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying the hot air round the +room for drying. Where this is the case, however, there should be a +funnel in the ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam; but a +better arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining, heated by +hot-air pipes, and lined with iron, with proper arrangements for +carrying off steam, and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves, to +run into it for drying purposes. This leaves the laundry free from +unwholesome vapour. + +2375. The laundry-maid should commence her labours on Monday morning by +a careful examination of the articles committed to her care, and enter +them in the washing-book; separating the white linen and collars, sheets +and body-linen, into one heap, fine muslins into another, coloured +cotton and linen fabrics into a third, woollens into a fourth, and the +coarser kitchen and other greasy cloths into a fifth. Every article +should be examined for ink- or grease-spots, or for fruit- or +wine-stains. Ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot water, +and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon, +pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink-spot, +rubbing and rinsing it in cold water till removed; grease-spots, by +rubbing over with yellow soap, and rinsing in hot water; fruit- and +wine-spots, by dipping in a solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine, +and rinsing. + +2376. Every article having been examined and assorted, the sheets and +fine linen should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered with +lukewarm water, in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed, and +left there to soak till the morning. The greasy cloths and dirtier +things should be laid to soak in another tub, in a liquor composed of +1/2 lb. of unslaked lime to every 6 quarts of water which has been +boiled for two hours, then left to settle, and strained off when clear. +Each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it thoroughly, and +left to soak till the morning, just covered by it when the things are +pressed together. Coppers and boilers should now be filled, and the +fires laid ready to light. + +2377. Early on the following morning the fires should be lighted, and as +soon as hot water can be procured, washing commenced; the sheets and +body-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning, should be taken first; +each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it has +been soaking, rinsed, rubbed, and wrung, and laid aside until the tub is +empty, when the foul water is drawn off. The tub should be again filled +with luke-warm water, about 80 deg., in which the articles should again be +plunged, and each gone over carefully with soap, and rubbed. Novices in +the art sometimes rub the linen against the skin; more experienced +washerwomen rub one linen surface against the other, which saves their +hands, and enables them to continue their labour much longer, besides +economizing time, two parts being thus cleaned at once. + +2378. After this first washing, the linen should be put into a second +water as hot as the hand can bear, and again rubbed over in every part, +examining every part for spots not yet moved, which require to be again +soaped over and rubbed till thoroughly clean; then rinsed and wrung, the +larger and stronger articles by two of the women; the smaller and more +delicate articles requiring gentler treatment. + +2379. In order to remove every particle of soap, and produce a good +colour, they should now be placed, and boiled for about an hour and a +half in the copper, in which soda, in the proportion of a teaspoonful to +every two gallons of water, has been dissolved. Some very careful +laundresses put the linen into a canvas bag to protect it from the scum +and the sides of the copper. When taken out, it should again be rinsed, +first in clean hot water, and then in abundance of cold water slightly +tinged with fig-blue, and again wrung dry. It should now be removed from +the washing-house and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach, if there +are conveniences for it; and the earlier in the day this is done, the +clearer and whiter will be the linen. + +2380. Coloured muslins, cottons, and linens, require a milder treatment; +any application of soda will discharge the colour, and soaking all +night, even in pure water, deteriorates the more delicate tints. When +ready for washing, if not too dirty, they should be put into cold water +and washed very speedily, using the common yellow soap, which should be +rinsed off immediately. One article should be washed at a time, and +rinsed out immediately before any others are wetted. When washed +thoroughly, they should be rinsed in succession in soft water, in which +common salt has been dissolved, in the proportion of a handful to three +or four gallons, and afterwards wrung gently, as soon as rinsed, with as +little twisting as possible, and then hung out to dry. Delicate-coloured +articles should not be exposed to the sun, but dried in the shade, using +clean lines and wooden pegs. + +2381. Woollen articles are liable to shrink, unless the flannel has been +well shrunk before making up. This liability is increased where very hot +water is used: cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in; +but, as this would not remove the dirt, lukewarm water, about 85 deg., and +yellow soap, are recommended. When thoroughly washed in this, they +require a good deal of rinsing in cold water, to remove the soap. + +2382. Greasy cloths, which have soaked all night in the liquid +described, should be now washed out with soap-and-water as hot as the +hands can bear, first in one water, and rinsed out in a second; and +afterwards boiled for two hours in water in which a little soda is +dissolved. When taken out, they should be rinsed in cold water, and laid +out or hung up to dry. + +2383. Silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone. When they contain +snuff, they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two or +three hours; they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the others +in cold water for an hour or two; then washed in lukewarm water, being +soaped as they are washed. If this does not remove all stains, they +should be washed a second time in similar water, and, when finished, +rinsed in soft water in which a handful of common salt has been +dissolved. In washing stuff or woollen dresses, the band at the waist +and the lining at the bottom should be removed, and wherever it is +gathered into folds; and, in furniture, the hems and gatherings. A black +silk dress, if very dirty, must be washed; but, if only soiled, soaking +for four-and-twenty hours will do; if old and rusty, a pint of common +spirits should be mixed with each gallon of water, which is an +improvement under any circumstances. Whether soaked or washed, it should +be hung up to drain, and dried without wringing. + +2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and coloured, may be cleaned in +the same manner. + +2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade, on a +linen-horse, taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled. If +black or blue, they will be improved if laid again on the table, when +dry, and sponged with gin, or whiskey, or other white spirit. + +2386. The operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs, cleaning +the coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing-house, and restoring +everything to order and cleanliness. + +2387. Thursday and Friday, in a laundry in full employ, are usually +devoted to mangling, starching, and ironing. + +2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried, +are made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing. The mangling +process, which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to a +very considerable pressure, produced by weight, is confined to sheets, +towels, table-linen, and similar articles, which are without folds or +plaits. Ironing is necessary to smooth body-linen, and made-up articles +of delicate texture or gathered into folds. The mangle is too well known +to need description. + + 2389. _Ironing_.--The irons consist of the common flat-iron, + which is of different sizes, varying from 4 to 10 inches in + length, triangular in form, and from 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches in + width at the broad end; the oval iron, which is used for more + delicate articles; and the box-iron, which is hollow, and heated + by a red-hot iron inserted into the box. The Italian iron is a + hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and raised on a slender + pedestal with a footstalk. Into the hollow cylinder a red-hot + iron is pushed, which heats it; and the smooth outside of the + latter is used, on which articles such as frills, and plaited + articles, are drawn. Crimping- and gauffering-machines are used + for a kind of plaiting where much regularity is required, the + articles being passed through two iron rollers fluted so as to + represent the kind of plait or fold required. + +2390. Starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated to +certain parts of linen, as the collar and front of shirts, by dipping +them in a paste made of starch boiled in water, mixed with a little gum +Arabic, where extra stiffness is required. + + +TO MAKE STARCH. + +2391. INGREDIENTS.--Allow 1/2 pint of cold water and 1 quart of boiling +water to every 2 tablespoonfuls of starch. + +_Mode_.--Put the starch into a tolerably large basin; pour over it the +cold water, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it is +perfectly free from lumps, and quite smooth. Then take the basin to the +fire, and whilst the water is _actually boiling_ in the kettle or +boiler, pour it over the starch, stirring it the whole time. If made +properly in this manner, the starch will require no further boiling; but +should the water not be boiling when added to the starch, it will not +thicken, and must be put into a clean saucepan, and stirred over the +fire until it boils. Take it off the fire, strain it into a clean basin, +cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top, and, when sufficiently +cool that the hand may be borne in it, starch the things. Many persons, +to give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed, stir +round two or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle, which also +prevents the iron from sticking. + +2392. When the "things to be starched" are washed, dried, and taken off +the lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed, +squeezed out of it, and then just dipped into cold water, and +immediately squeezed dry. If fine things be wrung, or roughly used, they +are very liable to tear; so too much care cannot be exercised in this +respect. If the article is lace, clap it between the hands a few times, +which will assist to clear it; then have ready laid out on the table a +large clean towel or cloth; shake out the starched things, lay them on +the cloth, and roll it up tightly, and let it remain for three or fours, +when the things will be ready to iron. + +2393. To be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience. +Strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed, as, +if this is not the case, not the most expert ironer will be able to make +her things look clear and free from smears, &c. After wiping down her +ironing table, the laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it, and +over that the ironing-blanket, with her stand and iron-rubber; and +having ascertained that her irons are quite clean and of the right heat, +she proceeds with her work. + +2394. It is a good plan to try the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth or +apron before ironing anything fine: there is then no danger of +scorching. For ironing fine things, such as collars, cuffs, muslins, and +laces, there is nothing so clean and nice to use as the box-iron; the +bottom being bright, and never placed near the fire, it is always +perfectly clean; it should, however, be kept in a dry place, for fear of +its rusting. Gauffering-tongs or irons must be placed in a clear fire +for a minute, then withdrawn, wiped with a coarse rubber, and the heat +of them tried on a piece of paper, as, unless great care is taken, these +will very soon scorch. + +2395. The skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-board +covered with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, also +covered with flannel; this board being placed between the back and +front. + +2396. After things are mangled, they should also be ironed in the folds +and gathers; dinner-napkins smoothed over, as also table-cloths, +pillow-cases, and sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats, and +shoulder-straps to flannel waistcoats, must also undergo the same +process. + + +UPPER AND UNDER NURSEMAIDS. + +2397. The nursery is of great importance in every family, and in +families of distinction, where there are several young children, it is +an establishment kept apart from the rest of the family, under the +charge of an upper nurse, assisted by under nursery-maids proportioned +to the work to be done. The responsible duties of upper nursemaid +commence with the weaning of the child: it must now be separated from +the mother or wet-nurse, at least for a time, and the cares of the +nursemaid, which have hitherto been only occasionally put in +requisition, are now to be entirely devoted to the infant. She washes, +dresses, and feeds it; walks out with it, and regulates all its little +wants; and, even at this early age, many good qualities are required to +do so in a satisfactory manner. Patience and good temper are +indispensable qualities; truthfulness, purity of manners, minute +cleanliness, and docility and obedience, almost equally so. She ought +also to be acquainted with the art of ironing and trimming little caps, +and be handy with her needle. + + 2398. There is a considerable art in carrying an infant + comfortably for itself and for the nursemaid. If she carry it + always seated upright on her arm, and presses it too closely + against her chest, the stomach of the child is apt to get + compressed, and the back fatigued. For her own comfort, a good + nurse will frequently vary this position, by changing from one + arm to the other, and sometimes by laying it across both, + raising the head a little. When teaching it to walk, and guiding + it by the hand, she should change the hand from time to time, so + as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other. This is + the only way in which a child should be taught to walk; + leading-strings and other foolish inventions, which force an + infant to make efforts, with its shoulders and head forward, + before it knows how to use its limbs, will only render it + feeble, and retard its progress. + + 2399. Most children have some bad habit, of which they must be + broken; but this is never accomplished by harshness without + developing worse evils: kindness, perseverance, and patience in + the nurse, are here of the utmost importance. When + finger-sucking is one of these habits, the fingers are sometimes + rubbed with bitter aloes, or some equally disagreeable + substance. Others have dirty habits, which are only to be + changed by patience, perseverance, and, above all, by regularity + in the nurse. She should never be permitted to inflict + punishment on these occasions, or, indeed, on any occasion. But, + if punishment is to be avoided, it is still more necessary that + all kinds of indulgences and flattery be equally forbidden. + Yielding to all the whims of a child,--picking up its toys when + thrown away in mere wantonness, would be intolerable. A child + should never be led to think others inferior to it, to beat a + dog, or even the stone against which it falls, as some children + are taught to do by silly nurses. Neither should the nurse + affect or show alarm at any of the little accidents which must + inevitably happen: if it falls, treat it as a trifle; otherwise + she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity. But she will + take care that such accidents are not of frequent occurrence, or + the result of neglect. + + 2400. The nurse should keep the child as clean as possible, and + particularly she should train it to habits of cleanliness, so + that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise; watching + especially that it does not soil itself in eating. At the same + time, vanity in its personal appearance is not to be encouraged + by over-care in this respect, or by too tight lacing or + buttoning of dresses, nor a small foot cultivated by the use of + tight shoes. + + 2401. Nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents + faithfully and truly the defects they observe in the + dispositions of very young children. If properly checked in + time, evil propensities may be eradicated; but this should not + extend to anything but serious defects; otherwise, the intuitive + perceptions which all children possess will construe the act + into "spying" and "informing," which should never be resorted to + in the case of children, nor, indeed, in any case. + +2402. Such are the cares which devolve upon the nursemaid, and it is her +duty to fulfil them personally. In large establishments she will have +assistants proportioned to the number of children of which she has the +care. The under nursemaid lights the fires, sweeps, scours, and dusts +the rooms, and makes the beds; empties slops, and carries up water; +brings up and removes the nursery meals; washes and dresses all the +children, except the infant, and assists in mending. Where there is a +nursery girl to assist, she does the rougher part of the cleaning; and +all take their meals in the nursery together, after the children of the +family have done. + +2403. In smaller families, where there is only one nursemaid kept, she +is assisted by the housemaid, or servant-of-all-work, who will do the +rougher part of the work, and carry up the nursery meals. In such +circumstances she will be more immediately under the eye of her +mistress, who will probably relieve her from some of the cares of the +infant. In higher families, the upper nurse is usually permitted to sup +or dine occasionally at the housekeeper's table by way of relaxation, +when the children are all well, and her subordinates trustworthy. + +2404. Where the nurse has the entire charge of the nursery, and the +mother is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it, it +is desirable that she be a person of observation, and possess some +acquaintance with the diseases incident to childhood, as also with such +simple remedies as may be useful before a medical attendant can be +procured, or where such attendance is not considered necessary. All +these little ailments are preceded by symptoms so minute as to be only +perceptible to close observation; such as twitching of the brows, +restless sleep, grinding the gums, and, in some inflammatory diseases, +even to the child abstaining from crying, from fear of the increased +pain produced by the movement. Dentition, or cutting the teeth, is +attended with many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlatina, +croup, hooping-cough, and other childish complaints, are all preceded by +well-known symptoms, which may be alleviated and rendered less virulent +by simple remedies instantaneously applied. + +2405. _Dentition_ is usually the first serious trouble, bringing many +other disorders in its train. The symptoms are most perceptible to the +mother: the child sucks feebly, and with gums hot, inflamed, and +swollen. In this case, relief is yielded by rubbing them from time to +time with a little of Mrs. Johnson's soothing syrup, a valuable and +perfectly safe medicine. Selfish and thoughtless nurses, and mothers +too, sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts, whose effects are +too well known. + +2406. _Convulsion Fits_ sometimes follow the feverish restlessness +produced by these causes; in which case a hot bath should be +administered without delay, and the lower parts of the body rubbed, the +bath being as hot as it can be without scalding the tender skin; at the +same time, the doctor should be sent for immediately, for no nurse +should administer medicine in this case, unless the fits have been +repeated and the doctor has left directions with her how to act. + +2407. _Croup_ is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood; it is +accompanied with a hoarse, croaking, ringing cough, and comes on very +suddenly, and most so in strong, robust children. A very hot bath should +be instantly administered, followed by an emetic, either in the form of +tartar-emetic, croup-powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha, wrapping +the body warmly up in flannel after the bath. The slightest delay in +administering the bath, or the emetic, may be fatal; hence, the +importance of nurses about very young children being acquainted with the +symptoms. + +2408. _Hooping-Cough_ is generally preceded by the moaning noise during +sleep, which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid: it +is followed by violent fits of coughing, which little can be done to +relieve. A child attacked by this disorder should be kept as much as +possible in the fresh, pure air, but out of draughts, and kept warm, and +supplied with plenty of nourishing food. Many fatal diseases flow from +this scourge of childhood, and a change to purer air, if possible, +should follow convalescence. + +2409. _Worms_ are the torment of some children: the symptoms are, an +unnatural craving for food, even after a full meal; costiveness, +suddenly followed by the reverse; fetid breath, a livid circle under the +eyes, enlarged abdomen, and picking the nose; for which the remedies +must be prescribed by the doctor. + +2410. _Measles_ and _Scarlatina_ much resemble each other in their early +stages: headache, restlessness, and fretfulness are the symptoms of +both. Shivering fits, succeeded by a hot skin; pains in the back and +limbs, accompanied by sickness, and, in severe cases, sore throat; pain +about the jaws, difficulty in swallowing, running at the eyes, which +become red and inflamed, while the face is hot and flushed, often +distinguish scarlatina and scarlet fever, of which it is only a mild +form. + +2411. While the case is doubtful, a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitre +diluted in water, given at bedtime, will throw the child into a gentle +perspiration, and will bring out the rash in either case. In measles, +this appears first on the face; in scarlatina, on the chest; and in both +cases a doctor should be called in. In scarlatina, tartar-emetic powder +or ipecacuanha may be administered in the mean time. + +2412. In all cases, cleanliness, fresh air, clean utensils, and frequent +washing of the person, both of nurse and children, are even more +necessary in the nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room, +inasmuch as the delicate organs of childhood are more susceptible of +injury from smells and vapours than adults. + +2413. It may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of the +duties of a nursemaid, by an extract from Florence Nightingale's +admirable "Notes on Nursing." Referring to children, she says:-- + + 2414. "They are much more susceptible than grown people to all + noxious influences. They are affected by the same things, but + much more quickly and seriously; by want of fresh air, of proper + warmth; want of cleanliness in house, clothes, bedding, or body; + by improper food, want of punctuality, by dulness, by want of + light, by too much or too little covering in bed or when up." + And all this in health; and then she quotes a passage from a + lecture on sudden deaths in infancy, to show the importance of + careful nursing of children:--"In the great majority of + instances, when death suddenly befalls the infant or young + child, it is an _accident_; it is not a necessary, inevitable + result of any disease. That which is known to injure children + most seriously is foul air; keeping the rooms where they sleep + closely shut up is destruction to them; and, if the child's + breathing be disordered by disease, a few hours only of such + foul air may endanger its life, even where no inconvenience is + felt by grown-up persons in the room." + + 2415. Persons moving in the beat society will see, after + perusing Miss Nightingale's book, that this "foul air," "want of + light," "too much or too little clothing," and improper food, is + not confined to Crown Street or St. Giles's; that Belgravia and + the squares have their north room, where the rays of the sun + never reach. "A wooden bedstead, two or three mattresses piled + up to above the height of the table, a vallance attached to the + frame,--nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air + such a bed and bedding,"--is the ordinary bed of a private + house, than which nothing can be more unwholesome. "Don't treat + your children like sick," she sums up; "don't dose them with + tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light + beer. Give them fresh, light, sunny, and open rooms, cool + bedrooms, plenty of outdoor exercise, facing even the cold, and + wind, and weather, in sufficiently warm clothes, and with + sufficient exercise, plenty of amusements and play; more + liberty, and less schooling, and cramming, and training; more + attention to food and less to physic." + + +DUTIES OF THE SICK-NURSE. + +2416. All women are likely, at some period of their lives, to be called +on to perform the duties of a sick-nurse, and should prepare themselves +as much as possible, by observation and reading, for the occasion when +they may be required to perform the office. The main requirements are +good temper, compassion for suffering, sympathy with sufferers, which +most women worthy of the name possess, neat-handedness, quiet manners, +love of order, and cleanliness. With these qualifications there will be +very little to be wished for; the desire to relieve suffering will +inspire a thousand little attentions, and surmount the disgusts which +some of the offices attending the sick-room are apt to create. Where +serious illness visits a household, and protracted nursing is likely to +become necessary, a professional nurse will probably be engaged, who has +been trained to its duties; but in some families, and those not a few +let us hope, the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangement +as a failure of duty on their part. There is, besides, even when a +professional nurse is ultimately called in, a period of doubt and +hesitation, while disease has not yet developed itself, when the patient +must be attended to; and, in these cases, some of the female servants of +the establishment must give their attendance in the sick-room. There +are, also, slight attacks of cold, influenza, and accidents in a +thousand forms, to which all are subject, where domestic nursing becomes +a necessity; where disease, though unattended with danger, is +nevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness, +and when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary. + +2417. In the first stage of sickness, while doubt and a little +perplexity hang over the household as to the nature of the sickness, +there are some things about which no doubt can exist: the patient's room +must be kept in a perfectly pure state, and arrangements made for proper +attendance; for the first canon of nursing, according to Florence +Nightingale, its apostle, is to "keep the air the patient breathes as +pure as the external air, without chilling him." This can be done +without any preparation which might alarm the patient; with proper +windows, open fireplaces, and a supply of fuel, the room may be as fresh +as it is outside, and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient's +state. + +2418. Windows, however, must be opened from above, and not from below, +and draughts avoided; cool air admitted beneath the patient's head +chills the lower strata and the floor. The careful nurse will keep the +door shut when the window is open; she will also take care that the +patient is not placed between the door and the open window, nor between +the open fireplace and the window. If confined to bed, she will see that +the bed is placed in a thoroughly ventilated part of the room, but out +of the current of air which is produced by the momentary opening of +doors, as well as out of the line of draught between the window and the +open chimney, and that the temperature of the room is kept about 64 deg.. +Where it is necessary to admit air by the door, the windows should be +closed; but there are few circumstances in which good air can be +obtained through the chamber-door; through it, on the contrary, the +gases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to be drawn +into the invalid chamber. + +2419. These precautions taken, and plain nourishing diet, such as the +patient desires, furnished, probably little more can be done, unless +more serious symptoms present themselves; in which case medical advice +will be sought. + +2420. Under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room so +essential as in cases of febrile diseases, usually considered +infectious; such as typhus and puerperal fevers, influenza, +hooping-cough, small- and chicken-pox, scarlet fever, measles, and +erysipelas: all these are considered communicable through the air; but +there is little danger of infection being thus communicated, provided +the room is kept thoroughly ventilated. On the contrary, if this +essential be neglected, the power of infection is greatly increased and +concentrated in the confined and impure air; it settles upon the clothes +of the attendants and visitors, especially where they are of wool, and +is frequently communicated to other families in this manner. + +2421. Under all circumstances, therefore, the sick-room should be kept +as fresh and sweet as the open air, while the temperature is kept up by +artificial heat, taking care that the fire burns clear, and gives out no +smoke into the room; that the room is perfectly clean, wiped over with a +damp cloth every day, if boarded; and swept, after sprinkling with damp +tea-leaves, or other aromatic leaves, if carpeted; that all utensils are +emptied and cleaned as soon as used, and not once in four-and-twenty +hours, as is sometimes done. "A slop-pail," Miss Nightingale says, +"should never enter a sick-room; everything should be carried direct to +the water-closet, emptied there, and brought up clean; in the best +hospitals the slop-pail is unknown." "I do not approve," says Miss +Nightingale, "of making housemaids of nurses,--that would be waste of +means; but I have seen surgical sisters, women whose hands were worth to +them two or three guineas a week, down on their knees, scouring a room +or hut, because they thought it was not fit for their patients: these +women had the true nurse spirit." + +2422. Bad smells are sometimes met by sprinkling a little liquid +chloride of lime on the floor; fumigation by burning pastiles is also a +common expedient for the purification of the sick-room. They are useful, +but only in the sense hinted at by the medical lecturer, who commenced +his lecture thus:--"Fumigations, gentlemen, are of essential importance; +they make so abominable a smell, that they compel you to open the +windows and admit fresh air." In this sense they are useful, but +ineffectual unless the cause be removed, and fresh air admitted. + +2423. The sick-room should be quiet; no talking, no gossiping, and, +above all, no whispering,--this is absolute cruelty to the patient; he +thinks his complaint the subject, and strains his ear painfully to catch +the sound. No rustling of dresses, nor creaking shoes either; where the +carpets are taken up, the nurse should wear list shoes, or some other +noiseless material, and her dress should be of soft material that does +not rustle. Miss Nightingale denounces crinoline, and quotes Lord +Melbourne on the subject of women in the sick-room, who said, "I would +rather have men about me, when ill, than women; it requires very strong +health to put up with women." Ungrateful man! but absolute quiet is +necessary in the sick-room. + +2424. Never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise, +never roused by anything like a surprise. Always sit in the apartment, +so that the patient has you in view, and that it is not necessary for +him to turn in speaking to you. Never keep a patient standing; never +speak to one while moving. Never lean on the sick-bed. Above all, be +calm and decisive with the patient, and prevent all noises over-head. + +2425. A careful nurse, when a patient leaves his bed, will open the +sheets wide, and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed; +She will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room. + +2426. "It is another fallacy," says Florence Nightingale, "to suppose +that night air is injurious; a great authority told me that, in London, +the air is never so good as after ten o'clock, when smoke has +diminished; but then it must be air from without, not within, and not +air vitiated by gaseous airs." "A great fallacy prevails also," she +says, in another section, "about flowers poisoning the air of the +sick-room: no one ever saw them over-crowding the sick-room; but, if +they did, they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off oxygen." Cut +flowers also decompose water, and produce oxygen gas. Lilies, and some +other very odorous plants, may perhaps give out smells unsuited to a +close room, while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be fresh +and natural. + +2427. "Patients," says Miss Nightingale, "are sometimes starved in the +midst of plenty, from want of attention to the ways which alone make it +possible for them to take food. A spoonful of beef-tea, or arrowroot and +wine, or some other light nourishing diet, should be given every hour, +for the patient's stomach will reject large supplies. In very weak +patients there is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing, which is +much increased if food is not ready and presented at the moment when it +is wanted: the nurse should be able to discriminate, and know when this +moment is approaching." + +2428. Diet suitable for patients will depend, in some degree, on their +natural likes and dislikes, which the nurse will do well to acquaint +herself with. Beef-tea is useful and relishing, but possesses little +nourishment; when evaporated, it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat to +a pint of water. Eggs are not equivalent to the same weight of meat. +Arrowroot is less nourishing than flour. Butter is the lightest and most +digestible kind of fat. Cream, in some diseases, cannot be replaced. +But, to sum up with some of Miss Nightingale's useful maxims:--Observation +is the nurse's best guide, and the patient's appetite the rule. Half a +pint of milk is equal to a quarter of a pound of meat. Beef-tea is the +least nourishing food administered to the sick; and tea and coffee, she +thinks, are both too much excluded from the sick-room. + + +THE MONTHLY NURSE. + +2429. The choice of a monthly nurse is of the utmost importance; and in +the case of a young mother with her first child, it would be well for +her to seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives in +this matter. In the first place, the engaging a monthly nurse in good +time is of the utmost importance, as, if she be competent and clever, +her services will be sought months beforehand; a good nurse having +seldom much of her time disengaged. There are some qualifications which +it is evident the nurse should possess: she should be scrupulously clean +and tidy in her person; honest, sober, and noiseless in her movements; +should possess a natural love for children, and have a strong nerve in +case of emergencies. Snuff-taking and spirit-drinking must not be +included in her habits; but these are happily much less frequent than +they were in former days. + +2430. Receiving, as she often will, instructions from the doctor, she +should bear these in mind, and carefully carry them out. In those +instances where she does not feel herself sufficiently informed, she +should ask advice from the medical man, and not take upon herself to +administer medicines, &c., without his knowledge. + +2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years of age, +sufficiently old to have had a little experience, and yet not too old or +infirm to be able to perform various duties requiring strength and +bodily vigour. She should be able to wake the moment she is called,--at +any hour of the night, that the mother or child may have their wants +immediately attended to. Good temper, united to a kind and gentle +disposition, is indispensable; and, although the nurse will frequently +have much to endure from the whims and caprices of the invalid, she +should make allowances for these, and command her temper, at the same +time exerting her authority when it is necessary. + +2432. What the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting her +lady's room, depends entirely on the establishment that is kept. Where +there are plenty of servants, the nurse, of course, has nothing whatever +to do but attend on her patient, and ring the bell for anything she may +require. Where the number of domestics is limited, she should not mind +keeping her room in order; that is to say, sweeping and dusting it every +morning. If fires be necessary, the housemaid should always clean the +grate, and do all that is wanted in that way, as this, being rather +dirty work, would soil the nurse's dress, and unfit her to approach the +bed, or take the infant without soiling its clothes. In small +establishments, too, the nurse should herself fetch things she may +require, and not ring every time she wants anything; and she must, of +course, not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is comfortable; +and then only for a few minutes. When down stairs, and in company with +the other servants, the nurse should not repeat what she may have heard +in her lady's room, as much mischief may be done by a gossiping nurse. +As in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few days +before her services may be required, she should see that all is in +readiness; that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinement +takes place. She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, as +well as night-dresses, flannels, &c. &c. All the things which will be +required to dress the baby the first time should be laid in the basket +in readiness, in the order in which they are to be put on; as well as +scissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen rag, and two or three +flannel squares. If a berceaunette is to be used immediately, the nurse +should ascertain that the mattresses, pillow, &c. are all well aired; +and if not already done before she arrives, she should assist in +covering and trimming it, ready for the little occupant. A monthly nurse +should be handy at her needle, as, if she is in the house some time +before the baby is born, she will require some work of this sort; to +occupy her time. She should also understand the making-up of little +caps, although we can scarcely say this is one of the nurse's duties. As +most children wear no caps, except out of doors, her powers in this way +will not be much taxed. + +2433. A nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible, +and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber utensils +as soon as used, and on no account put things under the bed. Soiled +baby's napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan, when they should +be washed out every morning, and hung out to dry: they are then in a fit +state to send to the laundress; and should, on no account, be left +dirty, but done every morning in this way. The bedroom should be kept +rather dark, particularly for the first week or ten days; of a regular +temperature, and as free as possible from draughts, at the same time +well ventilated and free from unpleasant smells. + +2434. The infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light, +or much air; and in carrying it about the passages, stairs, &c., the +nurse should always have its head-flannel on, to protect the eyes and +ears from the currents of air. For the management of children, we must +refer our readers to the following chapters; and we need only say, in +conclusion, that a good nurse should understand the symptoms of various +ills incident to this period, as, in all cases, prevention is better +than cure. As young mothers with their first baby are very often much +troubled at first with their breasts, the nurse should understand the +art of emptying them by suction, or some other contrivance. If the +breasts are kept well drawn, there will be but little danger of +inflammation; and as the infant at first cannot take all that is +necessary, something must be done to keep the inflammation down. This is +one of the greatest difficulties a nurse has to contend with, and we can +only advise her to be very persevering, to rub the breasts well, and to +let the infant suck as soon and as often as possible, until they get in +proper order. + + +THE WET-NURSE. + +2435. We are aware that, according to the opinion of some ladies, there +is no domestic theme, during a certain period of their married lives, +more fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitful +source of annoyance, "the Nurse;" but, as we believe, there are +thousands of excellent wives and mothers who pass through life without +even a temporary embroglio in the kitchen, or suffering a state of moral +hectic the whole time of a nurse's empire in the nursery or bedroom. Our +own experience goes to prove, that although many unqualified persons +palm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for the duties they so +rashly and dishonestly undertake to perform, and thus expose themselves +to ill-will and merited censure, there are still very many fully equal +to the legitimate exercise of what they undertake; and if they do not in +every case give entire satisfaction, some of the fault,--and sometimes a +great deal of it,--may be honestly placed to the account of the ladies +themselves, who, in many instances, are so impressed with the propriety +of their own method of performing everything, as to insist upon the +adoption of _their_ system in preference to that of the nurse, whose +plan is probably based on a comprehensive forethought, and rendered +perfect in all its details by an ample experience. + +2436. In all our remarks on this subject, we should remember with +gentleness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn; and +that those who make their duty a study, and are termed professional +nurses, have much to endure from the caprice and egotism of their +employers; while others are driven to the occupation from the laudable +motive of feeding their own children, and who, in fulfilling that +object, are too often both selfish and sensual, performing, without +further interest than is consistent with their own advantage, the +routine of customary duties. + +2437. Properly speaking, there are two nurses,--the nurse for the mother +and the nurse for the child, or, the monthly and the wet nurse. Of the +former we have already spoken, and will now proceed to describe the +duties of the latter, and add some suggestions as to her age, physical +health, and moral conduct, subjects of the utmost importance as far as +the charge intrusted to her is concerned, and therefore demanding some +special remarks. + +2438. When from illness, suppression of the milk, accident, or some +natural process, the mother is deprived of the pleasure of rearing her +infant, it becomes necessary at once to look around for a fitting +substitute, so that the child may not suffer, by any needless delay, a +physical loss by the deprivation of its natural food. The first +consideration should be as regards age, state of health, and temper. + +2439. The age, if possible, should not be less than twenty nor exceed +thirty years, with the health sound in every respect, and the body free +from all eruptive disease or local blemish. The best evidence of a sound +state of health will be found in the woman's clear open countenance, the +ruddy tone of the skin, the full, round, and elastic state of the +breasts, and especially in the erectile, firm condition of the nipple, +which, in all unhealthy states of the body, is pendulous, flabby, and +relaxed; in which case, the milk is sure to be imperfect in its +organization, and, consequently, deficient in its nutrient qualities. +Appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse or +mother; for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having a +corresponding appetite; and though inordinate craving for food is +neither desirable nor necessary, a natural vigour should be experienced +at meal-times, and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed. + +2440. Besides her health, the moral state of the nurse is to be taken +into account, or that mental discipline or principle of conduct which +would deter the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures and +appetites at the cost or suffering of her infant charge. + +2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse so +acting are, unfortunately, very rare; and many nurses, rather than +forego the enjoyment of a favourite dish, though morally certain of the +effect it will have on the child, will, on the first opportunity, feed +with avidity on fried meats, cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other crude +and injurious aliments, in defiance of all orders given, or confidence +reposed in their word, good sense, and humanity. And when the infant is +afterwards racked with pain, and a night of disquiet alarms the mother, +the doctor is sent for, and the nurse, covering her dereliction by a +falsehood, the consequence of her gluttony is treated as a disease, and +the poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines, that can do it +but little if any good, and, in all probability, materially retard its +physical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, believes, +too, that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself, the +child cannot suffer; and satisfied that, whatever is the cause of its +screams and plunges, neither she, nor what she had eaten, had anything +to do with it, with this flattering assurance at her heart, she watches +her opportunity, and has another luxurious feast off the proscribed +dainties, till the increasing disturbance in the child's health, or +treachery from the kitchen, opens the eyes of mother and doctor to the +nurse's unprincipled conduct. In all such cases the infant should be +spared the infliction of medicine, and, as a wholesome corrective to +herself, and relief to her charge, a good sound dose administered to the +nurse. + +2442. Respecting the diet of the wet-nurse, the first point of +importance is to fix early and definite hours for every meal; and the +mother should see that no cause is ever allowed to interfere with their +punctuality. The food itself should be light, easy of digestion, and +simple. Boiled or roast meat, with bread and potatoes, with occasionally +a piece of sago, rice, or tapioca pudding, should constitute the dinner, +the only meal that requires special comment; broths, green vegetables, +and all acid or salt foods, must be avoided. Fresh fish, once or twice a +week, may be taken; but it is hardly sufficiently nutritious to be often +used as a meal. If the dinner is taken early,--at one o'clock,--there +will be no occasion for luncheon, which too often, to the injury of the +child, is made the cover for a first dinner. Half a pint of stout, with +a Reading biscuit, at eleven o'clock, will be abundantly sufficient +between breakfast at eight and a good dinner, with a pint of porter at +one o'clock. About eight o'clock in the evening, half a pint of stout, +with another biscuit, may be taken; and for supper, at ten or half-past, +a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread and +cheese, may conclude the feeding for the day. + +2443. Animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient. All +spirits, unless in extreme cases, should be avoided; and wine is still +more seldom needed. With a due quantity of plain digestible food, and +the proportion of stout and porter ordered, with early hours and +regularity, the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself, but +fully capable of rearing a child in health and strength. There are two +points all mothers, who are obliged to employ wet-nurses, should +remember, and be on their guard against. The first is, never to allow a +nurse to give medicine to the infant on her own authority: many have +such an infatuated idea of the _healing excellence_ of castor-oil, that +they would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a week, and +think they had done a meritorious service to the child. The next point +is, to watch carefully, lest, to insure a night's sleep for herself, she +does not dose the infant with Godfrey's cordial, syrup of poppies, or +some narcotic potion, to insure tranquillity to the one and give the +opportunity of sleep to the other. The fact that scores of nurses keep +secret bottles of these deadly syrups, for the purpose of stilling their +charges, is notorious; and that many use them to a fearful extent, is +sufficiently patent to all. + +2444. It therefore behoves the mother, while obliged to trust to a +nurse, to use her best discretion to guard her child from the +unprincipled treatment of the person she must, to a certain extent, +depend upon and trust; and to remember, in all cases, rather than resort +to castor-oil or sedatives, to consult a medical man for her infant in +preference to following the counsel of her nurse. + + + + +THE REARING, MANAGEMENT, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD. + + +CHAPTER XLII. + + +Physiology of Life, as illustrated by Respiration, Circulation, and +Digestion. + +2445. The infantine management of children, like the mother's love for +her offspring, seems to be born with the child, and to be a direct +intelligence of Nature. It may thus, at first sight, appear as +inconsistent and presumptuous to tell a woman how to rear her infant as +to instruct her in the manner of loving it. Yet, though Nature is +unquestionably the best nurse, Art makes so admirable a foster-mother, +that no sensible woman, in her novitiate of parent, would refuse the +admonitions of art, or the teachings of experience, to consummate her +duties of nurse. It is true that, in a civilized state of society, few +young wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without some +insight, traditional or practical, into the management of infants: +consequently, the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaided +intelligence, or what, in such a case, may be called instinct, and +obliged to trust to the promptings of nature alone for the well-being of +her child, are very rare indeed. Again, every woman is not gifted with +the same physical ability for the harassing duties of a mother; and +though Nature, as a general rule, has endowed all female creation with +the attributes necessary to that most beautiful and, at the same time, +holiest function,--the healthy rearing of their offspring,--the cases +are sufficiently numerous to establish the exception, where the mother +is either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking these +most pleasing duties herself, and where, consequently, she is compelled +to trust to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are at +once the mother's pride and delight to render to her child. + +2446. In these cases, when obliged to call in the services of hired +assistance, she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to one +who, from her social sphere, has probably notions of rearing children +diametrically opposed to the preconceived ideas of the mother, and at +enmity with all her sentiments of right and prejudices of position. + +2447. It has justly been said--we think by Hood--that the children of +the poor are not brought up, but _dragged up_. However facetious this +remark may seem, there is much truth in it; and that children, reared in +the reeking dens of squalor and poverty, live at all, is an apparent +anomaly in the course of things, that, at first sight, would seem to set +the laws of sanitary provision at defiance, and make it appear a perfect +waste of time to insist on pure air and exercise as indispensable +necessaries of life, and especially so as regards infantine existence. + +2448. We see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children, everything +studied that can tend to their personal comfort,--pure air, pure water, +regular ablution, a dietary prescribed by art, and every precaution +adopted that medical judgment and maternal love can dictate, for the +well-being of the parents' hope; and find, in despite of all this care +and vigilance, disease and death invading the guarded treasure. We turn +to the foetor and darkness that, in some obscure court, attend the +robust brood who, coated in dirt, and with mud and refuse for +playthings, live and thrive, and grow into manhood, and, in contrast to +the pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child, exhibit +strength, vigour, and well-developed frames, and our belief in the +potency of the life-giving elements of air, light, and cleanliness +receives a shock that, at first sight, would appear fatal to the implied +benefits of these, in reality, all-sufficient attributes of health and +life. + +2449. But as we must enter more largely on this subject hereafter, we +shall leave its consideration for the present, and return to what we +were about to say respecting trusting to others' aid in the rearing of +children. Here it is that the young and probably inexperienced mother +may find our remarks not only an assistance but a comfort to her, in as +far as, knowing the simplest and best system to adopt, she may be able +to instruct another, and see that her directions are fully carried out. + +2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece of +mechanism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of a +system, and performing its own vital function irrespectively of the +others, and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and health +of the whole. It is, in fact, to a certain extent, like a watch, which, +when once wound up and set in motion, will continue its function of +recording true time only so long as every wheel, spring, and lever +performs its allotted duty, and at its allotted time; or till the limit +that man's ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automaton +has been reached, or, in other words, till it has run down. + +2451. What the key is to the mechanical watch, air is to the physical +man. Once admit air into the mouth and nostrils, and the lungs expand, +the heart beats, the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body, the +mouth secretes saliva, to soften and macerate the food; the liver forms +its bile, to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment; the +kidneys perform their office; the eye elaborates its tears, to +facilitate motion and impart that glistening to the orb on which depends +so much of its beauty; and a dewy moisture exudes from the skin, +protecting the body from the extremes of heat and cold, and sharpening +the perception of touch and feeling. At the same instant, and in every +part, the arteries, like innumerable bees, are everywhere laying down +layers of muscle, bones, teeth, and, in fact, like the coral zoophyte, +building up a continent of life and matter; while the veins, equally +busy, are carrying away the _debris_ and refuse collected from where the +zoophyte arteries are building,--this refuse, in its turn, being +conveyed to the liver, there to be converted into bile. + +2452. All these--and they are but a few of the vital actions constantly +taking place--are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air. No +subject can be fraught with greater interest than watching the first +spark of life, as it courses with electric speed "through all the gates +and alleys" of the soft, insensate body of the infant. The effect of air +on the new-born child is as remarkable in its results as it is wonderful +in its consequence; but to understand this more intelligibly, it must +first be remembered that life consists of the performance of _three_ +vital functions--RESPIRATION, CIRCULATION, and DIGESTION. The lungs +digest the air, taking from it its most nutritious element, the +_oxygen_, to give to the impoverished blood that circulates +through them. The stomach digests the food, and separates the +nutriment--_chyle_--from the aliment, which it gives to the blood for +the development of the frame; and the blood, which is understood by the +term circulation, digests in its passage through the lungs the +nutriment--_chyle_--to give it quantity and quality, and the _oxygen_ +from the air to give it vitality. Hence it will be seen, that, speaking +generally, the three vital functions resolve themselves into +one,--DIGESTION; and that the lungs are the primary and the most +important of the vital organs; and respiration, the first in fact, as we +all know it is the last in deed, of all the functions performed by the +living body. + + +THE LUNGS.--RESPIRATION. + +2453. The first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about the +lips and angles of the mouth, increasing to twitchings, and finally to a +convulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks, the consequence of sudden +cold to the nerves of the face. This spasmodic action produces a gasp, +causing the air to rush through the mouth and nostrils, and enter the +windpipe and upper portion of the flat and contracted lungs, which, like +a sponge partly immersed in water, immediately expand. This is succeeded +by a few faint sobs or pants, by which larger volumes of air are drawn +into the chest, till, after a few seconds, and when a greater bulk of +the lungs has become inflated, the breast-bone and ribs rise, the chest +expands, and, with a sudden start, the infant gives utterance to a +succession of loud, sharp cries, which have the effect of filling every +cell of the entire organ with air and life. To the anxious mother, the +first voice of her child is, doubtless, the sweetest music she ever +heard; and the more loudly it peals, the greater should be her joy, as +it is an indication of health and strength, and not only shows the +perfect expansion of the lungs, but that the process of life has set in +with vigour. Having welcomed in its own existence, like the morning +bird, with a shrill note of gladness, the infant ceases its cry, and, +after a few short sobs, usually subsides into sleep or quietude. + +2454. At the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs, the valve, +or door between the two sides of the heart-and through which the blood +had previously passed-is closed and hermetically sealed, and the blood +taking a new course, bounds into the lungs, now expanded with air, and +which we have likened to a wetted sponge, to which they bear a not unapt +affinity, air being substituted for water. It here receives the _oxygen_ +from the atmosphere, and the _chyle_, or white blood, from the digested +food, and becomes, in an instant, arterial blood, a vital principle, +from which every solid and fluid of the body is constructed. Besides the +lungs, Nature has provided another respiratory organ, a sort of +supplemental lung, that, as well as being a covering to the body, +_in_spires air and _ex_pires moisture;--this is the cuticle, or skin; +and so intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs, that +whatever injures the first, is certain to affect the latter. + +2455. _Hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after scalds or +burns on the cuticle, the cough that follows the absorption of cold or +damp by the skin, the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced by +children in all eruptive diseases, while the rash is coming to the +surface, and the hot, dry skin that always attends congestion of the +lungs, and fever._ + +2456. The great practical advantage derivable from this fact is, the +knowledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other. Hence, +too, the great utility of hot baths in all affections of the lungs or +diseases of the skin; and the reason why exposure to cold or wet is, in +nearly all cases, followed by tightness of the chest, sore throat, +difficulty of breathing, and cough. These symptoms are the consequence +of a larger quantity of blood than is natural remaining in the lungs, +and the cough is a mere effort of Nature to throw off the obstruction +caused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of respiration. +The hot bath, by causing a larger amount of blood to rush suddenly to +the skin, has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess of +blood, and by equalizing the circulation, and promoting perspiration +from the cuticle, affords immediate and direct benefit, both to the +lungs and the system at large. + + +THE STOMACH--DIGESTION. + +2457. The organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to the +process of digestion are, the mouth, teeth, tongue, and gullet, the +stomach, small intestines, the pancreas, the salivary glands, and the +liver. Next to respiration, digestion is the chief function in the +economy of life, as, without the nutritious fluid digested from the +aliment, there would be nothing to supply the immense and constantly +recurring waste of the system, caused by the activity with which the +arteries at all periods, but especially during infancy and youth, are +building up the frame and developing the body. In infancy (the period of +which our present subject treats), the series of parts engaged in the +process of digestion may be reduced simply to the stomach and liver, or +rather its secretion,--the bile. The stomach is a thick muscular bag, +connected above with the gullet, and, at its lower extremity, with the +commencement of the small intestines. The duty or function of the +stomach is to secrete from the arteries spread over its inner surface, a +sharp acid liquid called the _gastric_ juice; this, with a due mixture +of saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually digests the food or +contents of the stomach, reducing the whole into a soft pulpy mass, +which then passes into the first part of the small intestines, where it +comes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder, which immediately +separates the digested food into two parts, one is a white creamy fluid +called chyle, and the absolute concentration of all nourishment, which +is taken up by proper vessels, and, as we have before said, carried +directly to the heart, to be made blood of, and vitalized in the lungs, +and thus provide for the wear and tear of the system. It must be here +observed that the stomach can only digest solids, for fluids, being +incapable of that process, can only be _absorbed_; and without the +result of digestion, animal, at least human life, could not exist. Now, +as Nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on liquid +aliment, and as, without a digestion the body would perish, some +provision was necessary to meet this difficulty, and that provision was +found in the nature of the liquid itself, or in other words, THE MILK. +The process of making cheese, or fresh curds and whey, is familiar to +most persons; but as it is necessary to the elucidation of our subject, +we will briefly repeat it. The internal membrane, or the lining coat of +a calf's stomach, having been removed from the organ, is hung up, like a +bladder, to dry; when required, a piece is cut off, put in a jug, a +little warm water poured upon it, and after a few hours it is fit for +use; the liquid so made being called _rennet_. A little of this rennet, +poured into a basin of warm milk, at once coagulates the greater part, +and separates from it a quantity of thin liquor, called _whey_. This is +precisely the action that takes place in the infant's stomach after +every supply from the breast. The cause is the same in both cases, the +acid of the gastric juice in the infant's stomach immediately converting +the milk into a soft cheese. It is gastric juice, adhering to the calf's +stomach, and drawn out by the water, forming rennet, that makes the +curds in the basin. The cheesy substance being a solid, at once +undergoes the process of digestion, is separated into _chyle_ by the +bile, and, in a few hours, finds its way to the infant's heart, to +become blood, and commence the architecture of its little frame. This is +the simple process of a baby's digestion:-milk converted into cheese, +cheese into _chyle_, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, and +tegument-how simple is the cause, but how sublime and wonderful are the +effects! + +2458. We have described the most important of the three functions that +take place in the infant's body-respiration and digestion; the third, +namely, circulation, we hardly think it necessary to enter on, not being +called for by the requirements of the nurse and mother; so we shall omit +its notice, and proceed from theoretical to more practical +considerations. Children of weakly constitutions are just as likely to +be born of robust parents, and those who earn their bread by toil, as +the offspring of luxury and affluence; and, indeed, it is against the +ordinary providence of Nature to suppose the children of the hardworking +and necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of parents +blessed with ease and competence. + +2459. All children come into the world in the same imploring +helplessness, with the same general organization and wants, and +demanding either from the newly-awakened mother's love, or from the +memory of motherly feeling in the nurse, or the common appeals of +humanity in those who undertake the earliest duties of an infant, the +same assistance and protection, and the same fostering care. + + +THE INFANT. + +2460. We have already described the phenomena produced on the new-born +child by the contact of air, which, after a succession of muscular +twitchings, becomes endowed with voice, and heralds its advent by a loud +but brief succession of cries. But though this is the general rule, it +sometimes happens (from causes it is unnecessary here to explain) that +the infant does not cry, or give utterance to any audible sounds, or if +it does, they are so faint as scarcely to be distinguished as human +accents, plainly indicating that life, as yet, to the new visitor, is +neither a boon nor a blessing; the infant being, in fact, in a state of +suspended or imperfect vitality,--a state of _quasi_ existence, closely +approximating the condition of a _still-birth_. + +2461. As soon as this state of things is discovered, the child should be +turned on its right side, and the whole length of the spine, from the +head downwards, rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand, sharply +and quickly, without intermission, till the quick action has not only +evoked heat, but electricity in the part, and till the loud and sharp +cries of the child have thoroughly expanded the lungs, and +satisfactorily established its life. The operation will seldom require +above a minute to effect, and less frequently demands a repetition. If +there is brandy at hand, the fingers before rubbing may be dipped into +that, or any other spirit. + +2462. There-is another condition of what we may call "mute births," +where the child only makes short ineffectual gasps, and those at +intervals of a minute or two apart, when the lips, eyelids, and fingers +become of a deep purple or slate colour, sometimes half the body +remaining white, while the other half, which was at first swarthy, +deepens to a livid hue. This condition of the infant is owing to the +valve between the two sides of the heart remaining open, and allowing +the unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into the +circulation. + +2463. The object in this case, as in the previous one, is to dilate the +lungs as quickly as possible, so that, by the sudden effect of a +vigorous inspiration, the valve may be firmly closed, and the impure +blood, losing this means of egress, be sent directly to the lungs. The +same treatment is therefore necessary as in the previous case, with the +addition, if the friction along the spine has failed, of a warm bath at +a temperature of about 80 deg., in which the child is to be plunged up to +the neck, first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of the mucus that might +interfere with the free passage of air. + +2464. While in the bath, the friction along the spine is to be +continued, and if the lungs still remain unexpended, while one person +retains the child in an inclined position in the water, another should +insert the pipe of a small pair of bellows into one nostril, and while +the month is closed and the other nostril compressed on the pipe with +the hand of the assistant, the lungs are to be slowly inflated by steady +puffs of air from the bellows, the hand being removed from the mouth and +nose after each inflation, and placed on the pit of the stomach, and by +a steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth. This process is +to be continued, steadily inflating and expelling the air from the +lungs, till, with a sort of tremulous leap, Nature takes up the process, +and the infant begins to gasp, and finally to cry, at first low and +faint, but with every gulp of air increasing in length and strength of +volume, when it is to be removed from the water, and instantly wrapped +(all but the face and mouth) in a flannel. Sometimes, however, all these +means will fail in effecting an utterance from the child, which will +lie, with livid lips and a flaccid body, every few minutes opening its +mouth with a short gasping pant, and then subsiding into a state of +pulseless inaction, lingering probably some hours, till the spasmodic +pantings growing further apart, it ceases to exist. + +2465. The time that this state of negative vitality will linger in the +frame of an infant is remarkable; and even when all the previous +operations, though long-continued, have proved ineffectual, the child +will often rally from the simplest of means--the application of dry +heat. When removed from the bath, place three or four hot bricks or +tiles on the hearth, and lay the child, loosely folded in a flannel, on +its back along them, taking care that there is but one fold of flannel +between the spine and heated bricks or tiles. When neither of these +articles can be procured, put a few clear pieces of red cinder in a +warming-pan, and extend the child in the same manner along the closed +lid. As the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marrow, the +child that was dying, or seemingly dead, will frequently give a sudden +and energetic cry, succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorous +peal, making up, in volume and force, for the previous delay, and +instantly confirming its existence by every effort in its nature. + +2466. With these two exceptions,--restored by the means we have pointed +out to the functions of life,--we will proceed to the consideration of +the child HEALTHILY BORN. Here the first thing that meets us on the +threshold of inquiry, and what is often between mother and nurse not +only a vexed question, but one of vexatious import, is the _crying_ of +the child; the mother, in her natural anxiety, maintaining that her +infant _must be ill_ to cause it to cry so much or so often, and the +nurse insisting that _all_ children cry, and that nothing is the matter +with it, and that crying does good, and is, indeed, an especial benefit +to infancy. The anxious and unfamiliar mother, though not convinced by +these abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation, takes +both for granted; and, giving the nurse credit for more knowledge and +experience on this head than she can have, contentedly resigns herself +to the infliction, as a thing necessary to be endured for the good of +the baby, but thinking it, at the same time, an extraordinary instance +of the imperfectibility of Nature as regards the human infant; for her +mind wanders to what she has observed in her childhood with puppies and +kittens, who, except when rudely torn from their nurse, seldom give +utterance to any complaining. + +2467. We, undoubtedly, believe that crying, to a certain extent, is not +only conducive to health, but positively necessary to the full +development and physical economy of the infant's being. But though +holding this opinion, we are far from believing that a child does not +very often cry from pain, thirst, want of food, and attention to its +personal comfort; but there is as much difference in the tone and +expression of a child's cry as in the notes of an adult's voice; and the +mother's ear will not be long in discriminating between the sharp +peevish whine of irritation and fever, and the louder intermitting cry +that characterizes the want of warmth and sleep. All these shades of +expression in the child's inarticulate voice every nurse _should_ +understand, and every mother will soon teach herself to interpret them +with an accuracy equal to language. + +2468. There is no part of a woman's duty to her child that a young +mother should so soon make it her business to study, as the voice of her +infant, and the language conveyed in its cry. The study is neither hard +nor difficult; a close attention to its tone, and the expression of the +baby's features, are the two most important points demanding attention. +The key to both the mother will find in her own heart, and the knowledge +of her success in the comfort and smile of her infant. We have two +reasons--both strong ones--for urging on mothers the imperative +necessity of early making themselves acquainted with the nature and +wants of their child: the first, that when left to the entire, +responsibility of the baby, after the departure of the nurse, she may be +able to undertake her new duties with more confidence than if left to +her own resources and mother's instinct, without a clue to guide her +through the mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve of +her nature; and, secondly, that she may be able to guard her child from +the nefarious practices of unprincipled nurses, who, while calming the +mother's mind with false statements as to the character of the baby's +cries, rather than lose their rest, or devote that time which would +remove the cause of suffering, administer, behind the curtains, those +deadly narcotics which, while stupefying Nature into sleep, insure for +herself a night of many unbroken hours. Such nurses as have not the +hardihood to dose their infant charges, are often full of other schemes +to still that constant and reproachful cry. The most frequent means +employed for this purpose is giving it something to suck,--something +easily hid from the mother,--or, when that is impossible, under the plea +of keeping it warm, the nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl, and, +under this blind, surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parched +lips, which possibly moan for drink; and, under this inhuman cheat and +delusion, the infant is pacified, till Nature, balked of its desires, +drops into a troubled sleep. These are two of our reasons for impressing +upon mothers the early, the immediate necessity of putting themselves +sympathetically in communication with their child, by at once learning +its hidden language as a delightful task. + +2469. We must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow the +nurse to sleep with the baby, never herself to lay down with it by her +side for a night's rest, never to let it sleep in the parents' bed, and +on no account keep it, longer than absolutely necessary, confined in on +atmosphere loaded with the breath of many adults. + +2470. The amount of _oxygen_ required by an infant is so large, and the +quantity consumed by mid-life and age, and the proportion of carbonic +acid thrown off from both, so considerable, that an infant breathing the +same air cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while deriving +its vitality from so corrupted a medium. This objection, always in +force, is still more objectionable at night-time, when doors and windows +are closed, and amounts to a condition of poison, when placed between +two adults in sleep, and shut in by bed-curtains; and when, in addition +to the impurities expired from the lungs, we remember, in quiescence and +sleep, how large a portion of mephitic gas is given off from the skin. + +2471. Mothers, in the fullness of their affection, believe there is no +harbour, sleeping or awake, where their infants can be so secure from +all possible or probable danger as in their own arms; yet we should +astound our readers if we told them the statistical number of infants +who, in despite of their motherly solicitude and love, are annually +killed, unwittingly, by such parents themselves, and this from the +persistency in the practice we are so strenuously condemning. The mother +frequently, on awaking, discovers the baby's face closely impacted +between her bosom and her arm, and its body rigid and lifeless; or else +so enveloped in the "head-blanket" and superincumbent bedclothes, as to +render breathing a matter of physical impossibility. In such cases the +jury in general returns a verdict of "_Accidentally overlaid_" but one +of "Careless suffocation" would be more in accordance with truth and +justice. The only possible excuse that can be urged, either by nurse or +mother, for this culpable practice, is the plea of imparting warmth to +the infant. But this can always be effected by an extra blanket in the +child's crib, or, if the weather is particularly cold, by a bottle of +hot water enveloped in flannel and placed at the child's feet; while all +the objections already urged--as derivable from animal heat imparted by +actual contact--are entirely obviated. There is another evil attending +the sleeping together of the mother and infant, which, as far as regards +the latter, we consider quite as formidable, though not so immediate as +the others, and is always followed by more or less of mischief to the +mother. The evil we now allude to is that most injurious practice of +letting the child _suck_ after the mother has _fallen asleep_, a custom +that naturally results from the former, and which, as we hare already +said, is injurious to both mother and child. It is injurious to the +infant by allowing it, without control, to imbibe to distension a fluid +sluggishly secreted and deficient in those vital principles which the +want of mental energy, and of the sympathetic appeals of the child on +the mother, so powerfully produce on the secreted nutriment, while the +mother wakes in a state of clammy exhaustion, with giddiness, dimness of +sight, nausea, loss of appetite, and a dull aching pain through the back +and between the shoulders. In fact, she wakes languid and unrefreshed +from her sleep, with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes, caused by her +baby vampire, who, while dragging from her her health and strength, has +excited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite, but fraught with +the same injurious consequences--"functional derangement." + + +THE MILK. + +2472. As Nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural food +of her offspring, it must be self-evident to every reflecting woman, +that it becomes her duty to study, as far as lies in her power, to keep +that reservoir of nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition as +possible; for she must remember that the _quantity_ is no proof of the +_quality_ of this aliment. + +2473. The mother, while suckling, as a general rule, should avoid all +sedentary occupations, take regular exercise, keep her mind as lively +and pleasingly occupied as possible, especially by music and singing. +Her diet should be light and nutritious, with a proper sufficiency of +animal food, and of that kind which yields the largest amount of +nourishment; and, unless the digestion is naturally strong, vegetables +and fruit should form a very small proportion of the general dietary, +and such preparations as broths, gruels, arrowroot, &c., still less. +Tapioca, or ground-rice pudding, made with several eggs, may be taken +freely; but all slops and thin potations, such as that delusion called +chicken-broth, should be avoided, as yielding a very small amount of +nutriment, and a large proportion of flatulence. All purely stimulants +should be avoided as much as possible, especially spirits, unless taken +for some special object, and that medicinally; but as a part of the +dietary they should be carefully shunned. Lactation is always an +exhausting process, and as the child increases in size and strength, the +drain upon the mother becomes great and depressing. Then something more +even than an abundant diet is required to keep the mind and body up to a +standard sufficiently healthy to admit of a constant and nutritious +secretion being performed without detriment to the physical integrity of +the mother, or injury to the child who imbibes it; and as stimulants are +inadmissible, if not positively injurious, the substitute required is to +be found in _malt liquor_. To the lady accustomed to her Madeira and +sherry, this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate young +mother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance of +wine; but as we are writing from experience, and with the avowed object +of imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to our readers, we +allow no social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object. + +2474. We have already said that the suckling mother should avoid +stimulants, especially spirituous ones; and though something of this +sort is absolutely necessary to support her strength during the +exhausting process, it should be rather of a _tonic_ than of a +stimulating character; and as all wines contain a large percentage of +brandy, they are on that account less beneficial than the pure juice of +the fermented grape might be. But there is another consideration to be +taken into account on this subject; the mother has not only to think of +herself, but also of her infant. Now wines, especially port wine, very +often--indeed, most frequently--affect the baby's bowels, and what might +have been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain and +irritation to the child afterwards. Sherry is less open to this +objection than other wines, yet still _it_ very frequently does +influence the second participator, or the child whose mother has taken +it. + +2475. The nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be, to some +extent, to most mothers, a period of privation and penance, and unless +she is deaf to the cries of her baby, and insensible to its kicks and +plunges, and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping pains +that rack her child, she will avoid every article that can remotely +affect the little being who draws its sustenance from her. She will see +that the babe is acutely affected by all that in any way influences her, +and willingly curtail her own enjoyments, rather than see her infant +rendered feverish, irritable, and uncomfortable. As the best tonic, +then, and the most efficacious indirect stimulant that a mother can take +at such times, there is no potation equal to _porter_ and _stout_, or, +what is better still, an equal part of porter and stout. Ale, except for +a few constitutions, is too subtle and too sweet, generally causing +acidity or heartburn, and stout alone is too potent to admit of a full +draught, from its proneness to affect the head; and quantity, as well as +moderate strength, is required to make the draught effectual; the equal +mixture, therefore, of stout and porter yields all the properties +desired or desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose. + +2476. Independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution, +_porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk; +more powerful in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than any +other article within the range of the physician's art;_ and, in cases of +deficient quantity, is the most certain, speedy, and the healthiest +means that can be employed to insure a quick and abundant flow. In cases +where malt liquor produces flatulency, a few grains of the "carbonate of +soda" may advantageously be added to each glass immediately before +drinking, which will have the effect of neutralizing any acidity that +may be in the porter at the time, and will also prevent its +after-disagreement with the stomach. The quantity to be taken must +depend upon the natural strength of the mother, the age and demand made +by the infant on the parent, and other causes; but the amount should +vary from _one_ to _two_ pints a day, never taking less than half a pint +at a time, which should be repeated three or four times a day. + +2477. We have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance to +the mother, but this is not invariably the case; and, as so much must +depend upon the natural strength of the stomach, and its power of +assimilating all kinds of food into healthy _chyle_, it is impossible to +define exceptions. Where a woman feels she can eat any kind of food, +without inconvenience or detriment, she should live during her suckling +as she did before; but, as a general rule, we are bound to advise all +mothers to abstain from such articles as pickles, fruits, cucumbers, and +all acid and slowly digestible foods, unless they wish for restless +nights and crying infants. + +2478. As regards exercise and amusement, we would certainly neither +prohibit a mother's dancing, going to a theatre, nor even from attending +an assembly. The first, however, is the best indoor recreation she can +take, and a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in the +nursery with this most excellent means of healthful circulation. The +only precaution necessary is to avoid letting the child suck the milk +that has lain long in the breast, or is heated by excessive action. + +2479. Every mother who can, should be provided with a breast-pump, or +glass tube, to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating in +her absence from the child, or the first gush excited by undue exertion: +the subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigorating +influence of a previous healthy stimulus. + +2480. As the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of the +saline elements, and is thin and innutritious, it is most admirably +adapted for the purpose Nature designed it to fulfil,--that of an +aperient; but which, unfortunately, it is seldom permitted, in our +artificial mode of living, to perform. + +2481. So opposed are we to the objectionable plan of physicking new-born +children, that, unless for positive illness, we would much rather advise +that medicine should be administered _through_ the mother for the first +eight or ten weeks of its existence. This practice, which few mothers +will object to, is easily effected by the parent, when such a course is +necessary for the child, taking either a dose of castor-oil, half an +ounce of tasteless salts (the phosphate of soda), one or two +teaspoonfuls of magnesia, a dose of lenitive electuary, manna, or any +mild and simple aperient, which, almost before it can have taken effect +on herself, will exhibit its action on her child. + +2482. One of the most common errors that mothers fall into while +suckling their children, is that of fancying they are always hungry, and +consequently overfeeding them; and with this, the great mistake of +applying the child to the breast on every occasion of its crying, +without investigating the cause of its complaint, and, under the belief +that it wants food, putting the nipple into its crying mouth, until the +infant turns in revulsion and petulance from what it should accept with +eagerness and joy. At such times, a few teaspoonfuls of water, slightly +chilled, will often instantly pacify a crying and restless child, who +has turned in loathing from the offered breast; or, after imbibing a few +drops, and finding it not what nature craved, throws back its head in +disgust, and cries more petulantly than before. In such a case as this, +the young mother, grieved at her baby's rejection of the tempting +present, and distressed at its cries, and in terror of some injury, over +and over ransacks its clothes, believing some insecure pin can alone be +the cause of such sharp complaining, an accident that, from her own care +in dressing, however, is seldom or ever the case. + +2483. These abrupt cries of the child, if they do not proceed from +thirst, which a little water will relieve, not unfrequently occur from +some unequal pressure, a fold or twist in the "roller," or some +constriction round the tender body. If this is suspected, the mother +must not be content with merely slackening the strings; the child should +be undressed, and the creases and folds of the hot skin, especially +those about the thighs and groins, examined, to see that no powder has +caked, and, becoming hard, irritated the parts. The violet powder should +be dusted freely over all, to cool the skin, and everything put on fresh +and smooth. If such precautions have not afforded relief, and, in +addition to the crying, the child plunges or draws up its legs, the +mother may be assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach or +bowels,--either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding in +the former; but, from whichever cause, the child should be "opened" +before the fire, and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen, the +infant being occasionally elevated to a sitting position, and while +gently jolted on the knee, the back should be lightly patted with the +hand. + +2484. Should the mother have any reason to apprehend that the _cause_ of +inconvenience proceeds from the bladder--a not unfrequent source of +pain,--the napkin is to be dipped in hot water, squeezed out, and +immediately applied over the part, and repeated every eight or ten +minutes, for several times in succession, either till the natural relief +is afforded, or a cessation of pain allows of its discontinuance. The +pain that young infants often suffer, and the crying that results from +it, is, as we have already said, frequently caused by the mother +inconsiderately overfeeding her child, and is produced by the pain of +distension, and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid in +the stomach than the gastric juice can convert into cheese and digest. + +2485. Some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomach +than others, and get rid of the excess by vomiting, concluding every +process of suckling by an emission of milk and curd. Such children are +called by nurses "thriving children;" and generally they are so, simply +because their digestion is good, and they have the power of expelling +with impunity that superabundance of aliment which in others is a source +of distension, flatulence, and pain. + +2486. The length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much on +the health and strength of the child, and the health of the mother, and +the quantity and quality of her milk; though, when all circumstances are +favourable, it should never be less than _nine_, nor exceed _fifteen_ +months; but perhaps the true time will be found in the medium between +both. But of this we may be sure, that Nature never ordained a child to +live on suction after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind; +and nothing is more out of place and unseemly than to hear a child, with +a set of twenty teeth, ask for "the breast." + +2487. The practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother, +by keeping up an uncalled-for, and, after the proper time, an unhealthy +drain on her system, while the child either derives no benefit from what +it no longer requires, or it produces a positive injury on its +constitution. After the period when Nature has ordained the child shall +live by other means, the secretion of milk becomes thin and +deteriorated, showing in the flabby flesh and puny features of the child +both its loss of nutritious properties and the want of more stimulating +aliment. + +2488. Though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time a +baby should be suckled, we by no means wish to imply that a child should +be fed exclusively on milk for its first year; quite the reverse; the +infant can hardly be too soon made independent of the mother. Thus, +should illness assail her, her milk fail, or any domestic cause abruptly +cut off the natural supply, the child having been annealed to an +artificial diet, its life might be safely carried on without seeking for +a wet-nurse, and without the slightest danger to its system. + +2489. The advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child to +artificial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to her +infant; the demand on her physical strength in the first instance will +be less severe and exhausting, the child will sleep longer on a less +rapidly digestible aliment, and yield to both more quiet nights, and the +mother will be more at liberty to go out for business or pleasure, +another means of sustenance being at hand till her return. Besides these +advantages, by a judicious blending of the two systems of feeding, the +infant will acquire greater constitutional strength, so that, if +attacked by sickness or disease, it will have a much greater chance of +resisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother, whose +milk, affected by fatigue and the natural anxiety of the parent for her +offspring, is at such a time neither good in its properties nor likely +to be beneficial to the patient. + +2490. All that we have further to say on suckling is an advice to +mothers, that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple, and +possibly avoid what is called a "broken breast," never to put it up with +a wet nipple, but always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness, and +the moment that delicate part is drawn from the child's mouth, to dry it +carefully of the milk and saliva that moisten it; and, further, to make +a practice of suckling from each breast alternately. + + +Dress and Dressing, Washing, &c. + +2491. As respects the dress and dressing of a new-born infant, or of a +child in arms, during any stage of its nursing, there are few women who +will require us to give them guidance or directions for their +instruction; and though a few hints on the subject may not be out of +place here, yet most women intuitively "take to a baby," and, with a +small amount of experience, are able to perform all the little offices +necessary to its comfort and cleanliness with ease and completeness. We +shall, therefore, on this delicate subject hold our peace; and only, +from afar, _hint_ "at what we would," leaving our suggestions to be +approved or rejected, according as they chime with the judgment and the +apprehension of our motherly readers. + +2492. In these days of intelligence, there are few ladies who have not, +in all probability, seen the manner in which the Indian squaw, the +aborigines of Polynesia, and even the Lapp and Esquimaux, strap down +their baby on a board, and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough of +a tree, hang it up to the rafters of the hut, or on travel, dangle it on +their backs, outside the domestic implements, which, as the slave of her +master, man, the wronged but uncomplaining woman carries, in order that +her lord may march in unhampered freedom. Cruel and confining as this +system of "backboard" dressing may seem to our modern notions of freedom +and exercise, it is positively less irksome, less confining, and +infinitely less prejudicial to health, than the mummying of children by +our grandmothers a hundred, ay, fifty years ago: for what with +chin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead-cloths, rollers, bandages, +&c., an infant had as many girths and strings, to keep head, limbs, and +body in one exact position, as a ship has halyards. + +2493. Much of this--indeed we may say all--has been abolished; but still +the child is far from being dressed loosely enough; and we shall never +be satisfied till the abominable use of the _pin_ is avoided _in toto_ +in an infant's dressing, and a texture made for all the under garments +of a child of a cool and elastic material. + +2494. The manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called the +"roller," as if it had fractured ribs, compressing those organs--that, +living on suction, must be, for the health of the child, to a certain +degree distended, to obtain sufficient aliment from the fluid +imbibed--is perfectly preposterous. Our humanity, as well as our duty, +calls upon us at once to abrogate and discountenance by every means in +our power. Instead of the process of washing and dressing being made, as +with the adult, a refreshment and comfort, it is, by the dawdling manner +in which it is performed, the multiplicity of things used, and the +perpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its complicated +clothing, rendered an operation of positive irritation and annoyance. +We, therefore, entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its true +light, and study to the utmost, simplicity in dress, and dispatch in the +process. + +2495. Children do not so much cry from the washing as from the +irritation caused by the frequent change of position in which they are +placed, the number of times they are turned on their face, on their +back, and on their side, by the manipulations demanded by the +multiplicity of articles to be fitted, tacked, and carefully adjusted on +their bodies. What mother ever found her girl of six or seven stand +quiet while she was curling her hair? How many times nightly has she not +to reprove her for not standing still during the process! It is the same +with the unconscious infant, who cannot bear to be moved about, and who +has no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forced +reluctantly into another. It is true, in one instance the child has +intelligence to guide it, and in the other not; but the _motitory +nerves_, in both instances, resent coercion, and a child cannot be too +little handled. + +2496. On this account alone, and, for the moment, setting health and +comfort out of the question, we beg mothers to simplify their baby's +dress as much as possible; and not only to put on as little as is +absolutely necessary, but to make that as simple in its contrivance and +adjustment as it will admit of; to avoid belly-bands, rollers, girths, +and everything that can impede or confine the natural expansion of the +digestive organs, on the due performance of whose functions the child +lives, thrives, and develops its physical being. + + +REARING BY HAND. + +Articles necessary, and how to use them,--Preparation of Foods.-- +Baths.--Advantages of Rearing by Hand. + +2497. As we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocate for an +artificial, in preference to the natural course of rearing children, we +beg our renders to understand us perfectly on this head; all we desire +to prove is the fact that a child _can_ be brought up as well on a spoon +dietary as the best example to be found of those reared on the breast; +having more strength, indeed, from the more nutritious food on which it +lives. It will be thus less liable to infectious diseases, and more +capable of resisting the virulence of any danger that may attack it; and +without in any way depreciating the nutriment of its natural food, we +wish to impress on the mother's mind that there are many cases of +infantine debility which might eventuate in rickets, curvature of the +spine, or mesenteric disease, where the addition to, or total +substitution of, an artificial and more stimulating aliment, would not +only give tone and strength to the constitution, but at the same time +render the employment of mechanical means totally unnecessary. And, +finally, though we would never--where the mother had the strength to +suckle her child--supersede the breast, we would insist on making it a +rule to accustom the child as early as possible to the use of an +artificial diet, not only that it may acquire more vigour to help it +over the ills of childhood, but that, in the absence of the mother, it +might not miss the maternal sustenance; and also for the parent's sake, +that, should the milk, from any cause, become vitiated, or suddenly +cease, the child can be made over to the bottle and the spoon without +the slightest apprehension of hurtful consequences. + +2498. To those persons unacquainted with the system, or who may have +been erroneously informed on the matter, the rearing of a child by hand +may seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties, and a large amount of +personal trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes the +duty. This, however, is a fallacy in every respect, except as regards +the fact of preparing the food; but even this extra amount of work, by +adopting the course we shall lay down, may be reduced to a very small +sum of inconvenience; and as respects anxiety, the only thing calling +for care is the display of judgment in the preparation of the food. The +articles required for the purpose of feeding an infant are a night-lamp, +with its pan and lid, to keep the food warm; a nursing-bottle, with a +prepared teat; and a small pap saucepan, for use by day. Of the lamp we +need hardly speak, most mothers being acquainted with its operation: but +to those to whom it is unknown we may observe, that the flame from the +floating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above, in which the +covered pan that contains the food floats, keeping it at such a heat +that, when thinned by milk, it will be of a temperature suitable for +immediate use. Though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been lately +invented, and some mounted with India-rubber nipples, the common glass +bottle, with the calf's teat, is equal in cleanliness and utility to +any; besides, the nipple put into the child's mouth is so white and +natural in appearance, that no child taken from the breast will refuse +it. The black artificial ones of caoutchouc or gutta-percha are +unnatural. The prepared teats can be obtained at any chemist's, and as +they are kept in spirits, they will require a little soaking in warm +water, and gentle washing, before being tied securely, by means of fine +twine, round the neck of the bottle, just sufficient being left +projecting for the child to grasp freely in its lips; for if left the +full length, or over long, it will be drawn too far into the mouth, and +possibly make the infant heave. When once properly adjusted, the nipple +need never be removed till replaced by a new one, which will hardly be +necessary oftener than once a fortnight, though with care one will last +for several weeks. The nursing-bottle should be thoroughly washed and +cleaned every day, and always rinsed out before and after using it, the +warm water being squeezed through the nipple, to wash out any particles +of food that might lodge in the aperture, and become sour. The teat can +always be kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle, when not +in use, into a narrow jug containing water, taking care to dry it first, +and then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it into +the child's mouth. + + +Food, and its Preparation. + +2499. The articles generally employed as food for infants consist of +arrowroot, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous food, +biscuit-powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or manna +croup, as it is otherwise called, which, like tapioca, is the prepared +pith of certain vegetable substances. Of this list the least +efficacious, though, perhaps, the most believed in, is arrowroot, which +only as a mere agent, for change, and then only for a very short time, +should ever be employed as a means of diet to infancy or childhood. It +is a thin, flatulent, and innutritious food, and incapable of supporting +infantine life with energy. Bread, though the universal _regime_ with +the labouring poor, where the infant's stomach and digestive powers are +a reflex, in miniature, of the father's, should never be given to an +infant under three months, and, even then, however finely beaten up and +smoothly made, is a very questionable diet. Flour, when well boiled, +though infinitely better than arrowroot, is still only a kind of +fermentative paste, that counteracts its own good by after-acidity and +flatulence. + +2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a pale brown mass, and finely +powdered, makes a far superior food to the others, and may be considered +as a very useful diet, especially for a change. Prepared groats may be +classed with arrowroot and raw flour, as being innutritious. The +articles that now follow in our list are all good, and such as we could, +with conscience and safety, trust to for the health and development of +any child whatever. + +2501. We may observe in this place, that an occasional change in the +character of the food is highly desirable, both as regards the health +and benefit of the child; and though the interruption should only last +for a day, the change will be advantageous. + +2502. The packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the best +aliment that can be given from the first to a baby, and may be +continued, with the exception of an occasional change, without +alteration of the material, till the child is able to take its regular +meals of animal and vegetable food. Some infants are so constituted as +to require a frequent and total change in their system of living, +seeming to thrive for a certain time on any food given to them, but if +persevered in too long, declining in bulk and appearance as rapidly as +they had previously progressed. In such cases the food should be +immediately changed, and when that which appeared to agree best with the +child is resumed, it should be altered in its quality, and perhaps in +its consistency. + +2503. For the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet, +containing instructions for the making; but, whatever the food employed +is, enough should be made at once to last the day and night; at first, +about a pint basinful, but, as the child advances, a quart will hardly +be too much. In all cases, let the food boil a sufficient time, +constantly stirring, and taking every precaution that it does not get +burnt, in which case it is on no account to be used. + +2504. The food should always be made with water, the whole sweetened at +once, and of such a consistency that, when poured out, and it has had +time to cool, it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard. One +or two spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on the +hob till the heat has softened it, when enough milk is to be added, and +carefully mixed with the food, till the whole has the consistency of +ordinary cream; it is then to be poured into the nursing-bottle, and the +food having been drawn through to warm the nipple, it is to be placed in +the child's mouth. For the first month or more, half a bottleful will be +quite enough to give the infant at one time; but, as the child grows, it +will be necessary not only to increase the quantity given at each time, +but also gradually to make its food more consistent, and, after the +third month, to add an egg to every pint basin of food made. At night +the mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp, instead of +the saucepan--that is, enough for one supply, and, having lighted the +rush, she will find, on the waking of her child, the food sufficiently +hot to bear the cooling addition of the milk. But, whether night or day, +the same food should never be heated twice, and what the child leaves +should be thrown away. + +2505. The biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceous +food, and both prepared much after the fashion of making starch. But +when tops-and-bottoms, or the whole biscuit, are employed, they require +soaking in cold water for some time previous to boiling. The biscuit or +biscuits are then to be slowly boiled in as much water as will, when +thoroughly soft, allow of their being beaten by a three-pronged fork +into a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and which, when poured into a basin +and become cold, will cut out like a custard. If two large biscuits have +been so treated, and the child is six or seven months old, beat up two +eggs, sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it, and about a pint of skim +milk. Pour this on the beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirring +constantly; boil for about five minutes, pour into a basin, and use, +when cold, in the same manner as the other. + +2506. This makes an admirable food, at once nutritious and +strengthening. When tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used, the quantity of +the egg may be reduced, or altogether omitted. + +2507. Semolina, or manna croup, being in little hard grains, like a fine +millet-seed, must be boiled for some time, and the milk, sugar, and egg +added to it on the fire, and boiled for a few minutes longer, and, when +cold, used as the other preparations. + +2508. Many persons entertain a belief that cow's milk is hurtful to +infants, and, consequently, refrain from giving it; but this is a very +great mistake, for both sugar and milk should form a large portion of +every meal an infant takes. + + +TEETHING AND CONVULSIONS. + +Fits, &c., the consequence of Dentition, and how to be treated.--The +number and order of the Teeth, and manner in which they are cut.--First +and Second Set. + +2509. About three months after birth, the infant's troubles may be said +to begin; teeth commence forming in the gums, causing pain and +irritation in the mouth, and which, but for the saliva it causes to flow +so abundantly, would be attended with very serious consequences. At the +same time the mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of the +regimen imposed on her, and, taking some unusual or different food, +excites diarrhoea or irritation in her child's stomach, which not +unfrequently results in a rash on the skin, or slight febrile symptoms, +which, if not subdued in their outset, superinduce some more serious +form of infantine disease. But, as a general rule, the teeth are the +primary cause of much of the child's sufferings, in consequence of the +state of nervous and functional irritation into which the system is +thrown by their formation and progress out of the jaw and through the +gums. We propose beginning this branch of our subject with that most +fertile source of an infant's suffering-- + +Teething. + +2510. That this subject may he better understood by the nurse and +mother, and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that, to a +greater or less degree, is experienced by all infants, may be made +intelligible to those who have the care of children, we shall commence +by giving a brief account of the formation of the teeth, the age at +which they appear in the mouth, and the order in which they pierce the +gums. The organs of mastication in the adult consist of 32 distinct +teeth, 16 in either jaw; being, in fact, a double set. The teeth are +divided into 4 incisors, 2 canine, 4 first and second grinders, and 6 +molars; but in childhood the complement or first set consists of only +twenty, and these only make their appearance as the development of the +frame indicates the requirement of a different kind of food for the +support of the system. At birth some of the first-cut teeth are found in +the cavities of the jaw, in a very small and rudimentary form; but this +is by no means universal. About the third month, the jaws, which are +hollow and divided into separate cells, begin to expand, making room for +the slowly developing teeth, which, arranged for beauty and economy of +space lengthwise, gradually turn their tops upwards, piercing the gum by +their edges, which, being sharp, assist in cutting a passage through the +soft parts. There is no particular period at which children cut their +teeth, some being remarkably early, and others equally late. The +earliest age that we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was, +_six weeks_. Such peculiarities are generally hereditary, and, as in +this case, common to a whole family. The two extremes are probably +represented by six and sixteen months. Pain and drivelling are the +usual, but by no means the general, indications of teething. + +2511. About the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen, +presenting a red, shiny appearance, while the salivary glands pour out +an unusual quantity of saliva. After a time, a white line or round spot +is observed on the top of one part of the gums, and the sharp edge of +the tooth may be felt beneath if the finger is gently pressed on the +part. Through these white spots the teeth burst their way in the +following order:-- + +2512. Two incisors in the lower jaw are first cut, though, in general, +some weeks elapse between the appearance of the first and the advent of +the second. The next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw. +The next in order are the remaining two incisors of the bottom, one on +each side, then two top and two bottom on each side, but not joining the +incisors; and lastly, about the eighteenth or twentieth month, the four +eye teeth, filling up the space left between the side teeth and the +incisors; thus completing the infant's set of sixteen. Sometimes at the +same period, but more frequently some months later, four more double +teeth slowly make their appearance, one on each side of each jaw, +completing the entire series of the child's first set of twenty teeth. +It is asserted that a child, while cutting its teeth, should either +dribble excessively, vomit after every meal, or be greatly relaxed. +Though one or other, or all of these at once, may attend a case of +teething, it by no means follows that any one of them should accompany +this process of nature, though there can be no doubt that where the pain +consequent on the unyielding state of the gums, and the firmness of the +skin that covers the tooth, is severe, a copious discharge of saliva +acts beneficially in saving the head, and also in guarding the child +from those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in their +teething are liable. + +2513. _The Symptoms_ that generally indicate the cutting of teeth, in +addition to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums, and increased +flow of saliva, are the restless and peevish state of the child, the +hands being thrust into the mouth, and the evident pleasure imparted by +rubbing the finger or nail gently along the gum; the lips are often +excoriated, and the functions of the stomach or bowels are out of order. +In severe cases, occurring in unhealthy or scrofulous children, there +are, from the first, considerable fever, disturbed sleep, fretfulness, +diarrhoea, rolling of the eyes, convulsive startings, laborious +breathing, coma, or unnatural sleep, ending, unless the head is quickly +relieved, in death. + +2514. The _Treatment_ in all cases of painful teething is remarkably +simple, and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperient +medicines, allaying the irritation in the gums by friction with a rough +ivory ring or a stale crust of broad, and when the head, lungs, or any +organ is overloaded or unduly excited, to use the hot bath, and by +throwing the body into a perspiration, equalize the circulation, and +relieve the system from the danger of a fatal termination. + +2515. Besides these, there is another means, but that must be employed +by a medical man; namely, scarifying the gums--an operation always safe, +and which, when judiciously performed, and at a critical opportunity, +will often snatch the child from the grasp of death. + +2516. There are few subjects on which mothers have often formed such +strong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant's gums, +some rather seeing their child go into fits--and by the unrelieved +irritation endangering inflammation of the brain, water on the head, +rickets, and other lingering affections--than permit the surgeon to +afford instant relief by cutting through the hard skin, which, like a +bladder over the stopper of a bottle, effectually confines the tooth to +the socket, and prevents it piercing the soft, spongy substance of the +gum. This prejudice is a great error, as we shall presently show; for, +so far from hurting the child, there is nothing that will so soon +convert an infant's tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painful +teething; that is, if effectually done, and the skin of the tooth be +divided. + +2517. Though teething is a natural function, and to an infant in perfect +health should be unproductive of pain, yet in general it is not only a +fertile cause of suffering, but often a source of alarm and danger; the +former, from irritation in the stomach and bowels, deranging the whole +economy of the system, and the latter, from coma and fits, that may +excite alarm in severe cases; and the danger, that eventuates in some +instances, from organic disease of the head or spinal marrow. + +2518. We shall say nothing in this place of "rickets," or "water on the +head," which are frequent results of dental irritation, but proceed to +finish our remarks on the treatment of teething. Though strongly +advocating the lancing of the gums in teething, and when there are any +severe head-symptoms, yet it should never be needlessly done, or before +being satisfied that the tooth is fully formed, and is out of the +socket, and under the gum. When assured on these points, the gum should +be cut lengthwise, and from the top of the gum downwards to the tooth, +in an horizontal direction, thus----, and for about half an inch in +length. The operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction, +cutting across the gum, in the centre of the first incision, and forming +a cross, thus +. The object of this double incision is to insure a +retraction of the cut parts, and leave an open way for the tooth to +start from--an advantage not to be obtained when only one incision is +made; for unless the tooth immediately follows the lancing, the opening +reunites, and the operation has to be repeated. That this operation is +very little or not at all painful, is evidenced by the suddenness with +which the infant falls asleep after the lancing, and awakes in +apparently perfect health, though immediately before the use of the +gum-lancet, the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions. + + +Convulsions, or Infantine Fits. + +2519. From their birth till after teething, infants are more or less +subject or liable to sudden fits, which often, without any assignable +cause, will attack the child in a moment, and while in the mother's +arms; and which, according to their frequency, and the age and strength +of the infant, are either slight or dangerous. + +2520. Whatever may have been the remote cause, the immediate one is some +irritation of the nervous system, causing convulsions, or an effusion to +the head, inducing coma. In the first instance, the infant cries out +with a quick, short scream, rolls up its eyes, arches its body +backwards, its arms become bent and fixed, and the fingers parted; the +lips and eyelids assume a dusky leaden colour, while the face remains +pale, and the eyes open, glassy, or staring. This condition may or may +not be attended with muscular twitchings of the mouth, and convulsive +plunges of the arms. The fit generally lasts from one to three minutes, +when the child recovers with a sigh, and the relaxation of the body. In +the other case, the infant is attacked at once with total insensibility +and relaxation of the limbs, coldness of the body and suppressed +breathing; the eyes, when open, being dilated, and presenting a dim +glistening appearance; the infant appearing, for the moment, to be dead. + +2521. _Treatment._-The first step in either case is, to immerse the +child in a hot bath up to the chin; or if sufficient hot water cannot be +procured to cover the body, make a hip-bath of what can be obtained; +and, while the left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbent +position, with the right scoop up the water, and run it over the chest +of the patient. When sufficient water can be obtained, the spine should +be briskly rubbed while in the bath; when this cannot be done, lay the +child on the knees, and with the fingers dipped in brandy, rub the whole +length of the spine vigorously for two or three minutes, and when +restored to consciousness, give occasionally a teaspoonful of weak +brandy and water or wine and water. + +2522. An hour after the bath, it may be necessary to give an aperient +powder, possibly also to repeat the dose for once or twice every three +hours; in which case the following prescription is to be employed. Take +of + + Powdered scammony 6 grains. + Grey powder 6 grains. + Antimonial powder 4 grains. + Lump sugar 20 grains. + +Mix thoroughly, and divide into three powders, which are to be taken as +advised for an infant one year old; for younger or weakly infants, +divide into four powders, and give as the other. For thirst and febrile +symptoms, give drinks of barley-water, or cold water, and every three +hours put ten to fifteen drops of spirits of sweet nitre in a +dessert-spoonful of either beverage. + + +THRUSH, AND ITS TREATMENT. + +2523. This is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject, and in +whom alone it may be said to be a disease; for when thrush shows itself +in adult or advanced life, it is not as a disease proper, but only as a +symptom, or accessory, of some other ailment, generally of a chronic +character, and should no more be classed as a separate affection than +the petechae, or dark-coloured spots that appear in malignant measles, +may be considered a distinct affection. + +2524. Thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of the +alimentary canal, whereby there are formed small vesicles, or bladders, +filled with a thick mucous secretion, which, bursting, discharge their +contents, and form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel. To make +this formal but unavoidable description intelligible, we must beg the +reader's patience while we briefly explain terms that may appear to many +so unmeaning, and make the pathology of thrush fully familiar. + +2525. The whole digestive canal, of which the stomach and bowels are +only a part, is covered, from the lips, eyes, and ears downwards, with a +thin glairy tissue, like the skin that lines the inside of an egg, +called the mucous membrane; this membrane is dotted all over, in a state +of health, by imperceptible points, called follicles, through which the +saliva, or mucous secreted by the membrane, is poured out. + +2526. These follicles, or little glands, then, becoming enlarged, and +filled with a congealed fluid, constitute thrush in its first stage; and +when the child's lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls, then, as +these break and discharge, the second stage, or that of ulceration, sets +in. + +2527. _Symptoms._--Thrush is generally preceded by considerable +irritation, by the child crying and fretting, showing more than ordinary +redness of the lips and nostrils, hot fetid breath, with relaxed bowels, +and dark feculent evacuations; the water is scanty and high-coloured; +whilst considerable difficulty in swallowing, and much thirst, are the +other symptoms, which a careful observation of the little patient makes +manifest. + +2528. The situation and character of thrush show at once that the cause +is some irritation of the mucous membrane, and can proceed only from the +nature and quality of the food. Before weaning, this must be looked for +in the mother, and the condition of the milk; after that time, in the +crude and indigestible nature of the food given. In either case, this +exciting cause of the disease must be at once stopped. When it proceeds +from the mother, it is always best to begin by physicking the infant +through the parent; that is to say, let the parent first take the +medicine, which will sufficiently affect the child through the milk: +this plan has the double object of benefiting the patient and, at the +same time, correcting the state of the mother, and improving the +condition of her milk. In the other case, when the child is being fed by +hand, then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given, and +substituting farinaceous food, custards, blanc-mange, and ground-rice +puddings. + +2529. As an aperient medicine for the mother, the best thing she can +take is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day, +in a cup of cold water; and every second day, for two or three times, an +aperient pill. + +2530. As the thrush extends all over the mouth, throat, stomach, and +bowels, the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseased +surface is proportionately great, and before attempting to act on such a +tender surface by opening medicine, the better plan is to soothe by an +emollient mixture; and, for that purpose, let the following be prepared. +Take of + + Castor oil 2 drachms. + Sugar 1 drachm. + Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic half a drachm. + +Triturate till the oil is incorporated, then add slowly-- + + Mint-water One ounce and a half + Laudanum Ten drops + +Half a teaspoonful three times a day, to an infant from one to two years +old; a teaspoonful from two to three years old; and a dessertspoonful at +any age over that time. After two days' use of the mixture, one of the +following powders should be given twice a day, accompanied with one dose +daily of the mixture:-- + + Grey powder 20 grains. + Powdered rhubarb 15 grains. + Scammony 10 grains. Mix. + +Divide into twelve powders, for one year; eight powders, from one to +two; and six powders, from two to six years old. After that age, double +the strength, by giving the quantity of two powders at once. + +2531. It is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouth +for thrush; but it is always better to treat the disease +constitutionally rather than locally. The first steps, therefore, to be +adopted are, to remove or correct the exciting cause--the mother's milk +or food; allay irritation by a warm bath and the castor-oil mixture, +followed by and conjoined with the powders. + +2532. To those, however, who wish to try the honey process, the best +preparation to use is the following:-Rub down one ounce of honey with +two drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to the lips and mouth +every four or six hours. + +2533. It is a popular belief, and one most devoutly cherished by many +nurses and elderly persons, that everybody must, at some time of their +life, between birth and death, have an attack of thrush, and if not in +infancy, or prime of life, it will surely attack them on their +death-bed, in a form more malignant than if the patient had been +affected with the malady earlier; the black thrush with which they are +then reported to be affected being, in all probability, the petechae or +purple spots that characterize the worst form, and often the last stage, +of typhoid fever. + +2534. In general, very little medicine is needed in this disease of the +thrush--an alterative powder, or a little magnesia, given once or twice, +being all, with the warm bath, that, in the great majority of cases, is +needed to restore the mucous membrane to health. As thrush is caused by +an excess of heat, or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomach +and bowels, whatever will counteract this state, by throwing the heat on +the surface, must materially benefit, if not cure, the disease: and that +means every mother has at hand, in the form of a _warm bath_. After the +application of this, a little magnesia to correct the acidity existing +along the surface of the mucous membrane, is often all that is needed to +throw the system into such a state as will effect its own cure. This +favourable state is indicated by an excessive flow of saliva, or what is +called "dribbling," and by a considerable amount of relaxation of the +bowels-a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea, and checked +as if a disease, but rather, for the day or two it continues, encouraged +as a critical evacuant. + +2535. Should there be much debility in the convalescence, half a +teaspoonful of stee wine, given twice a day in a little barley-water, +will be found sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic. This, with the +precaution of changing the child's food, or, when it lives on the +mother, of correcting the quality of the milk by changing her own diet, +and, by means of an antacid or aperient, improving the state of the +secretion. Such is all the treatment that this disease in general +requires. + +2536. The class of diseases we are now approaching are the most +important, both in their pathological features and in their consequences +on the constitution, of any group or individual disease that assails the +human body; and though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frame +of childhood, are yet by no means confined to that period. These are +called Eruptive Fevers, and embrace chicken-pox, cow-pox, small-pox, +scarlet fever, measles, milary fever, and erysipelas, or St. Anthony's +fire. + +2537. The general character of all these is, that they are contagious, +and, as a general rule, attack a person only once in his lifetime; that +their chain of diseased actions always begins with fever, and that, +after an interval of from one to four days, the fever is followed by an +eruption of the skin. + + +CHICKEN-POX, OR GLASS-POX; AND COW-POX, OR VACCINATION. + +2538. CHICKEN-POX, or GLASS-POX, may, in strict propriety, be classed as +a mild variety of small-pox, presenting all the mitigated symptoms of +that formidable disease. Among many physicians it is, indeed, classed as +small-pox, and not a separate disease; but as this is not the place to +discuss such questions, and as we profess to give only facts, the result +of our own practical experience, we shall treat this affection of +glass-pox or chicken-pox, as we ourselves have found it, as a distinct +and separate disease. + +2539. Chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented by +small-pox, with this difference, that, in the case of chicken-pox, each +symptom is particularly slight. The heat of body is much less acute, and +the principal symptoms are difficulty of breathing, headache, coated +tongue, and nausea, which sometimes amounts to vomiting. After a term of +general irritability, heat, and restlessness, about the fourth day, or +between the third and fourth, an eruption makes its appearance over the +face, neck, and body, in its first two stages closely resembling +small-pox, with this especial difference, that whereas the pustules in +small-pox have _flat_ and _depressed_ centres--an infallible +characteristic of small-pox--the pustules in chicken-pox remain +_globular_, while the fluid in them changes from a transparent white to +a straw-coloured liquid, which begins to exude and disappear about the +eighth or ninth day, and, in mild cases, by the twelfth desquamates, or +peels off entirely. + +2540. There can be no doubt that chicken-pox, like small-pox, is +contagious, and under certain states of the atmosphere becomes endemic. +Parents should, therefore, avoid exposing young children to the danger +of infection by taking them where it is known to exist, as chicken-pox, +in weakly constitutions, or in very young children, may superinduce +small-pox, the one disease either running concurrently with the other, +or discovering itself as the other declines. This, of course, is a +condition that renders the case very hazardous, as the child has to +struggle against two diseases at once, or before it has recruited +strength from the attack of the first. + +2541. _Treatment_.--In all ordinary cases of chicken-pox--and it is very +seldom it assumes any complexity--the whole treatment resolves itself +into the use of the warm bath, and a course of gentle aperients. The +bath should be used when the oppression of the lungs renders the +breathing difficult, or the heat and dryness of the skin, with the +undeveloped rash beneath the surface, shows the necessity for its use. + +2542. As the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state of +suppuration, as in the other disease, there is no fear of _pitting_ or +disfigurement, except in very severe forms, which, however, happen so +seldom as not to merit apprehension. When the eruption subsides, +however, the face may be washed with elder-flower water, and the routine +followed which is prescribed in the convalescent state of small-pox. + +2543. COW-POX, properly speaking, is an artificial disease, established +in a healthy body as a prophylactic, or preventive agent, against the +more serious attack of small-pox, and is merely that chain of slight +febrile symptoms and local irritation, consequent on the specific action +of the lymph of the vaccination, in its action on the circulating system +of the body. This is not the place to speak of the benefits conferred on +mankind by the discovery of vaccination, not only as the preserver of +the human features from a most loathsome disfigurement, but as a +sanitary agent in the prolongation of life. + +2544. Fortunately the State has now made it imperative on all parents to +have their children vaccinated before, or by the end of, the twelfth +week; thus doing away, as far as possible, with the danger to public +health proceeding from the ignorance or prejudice of those parents whose +want of information on the subject makes them object to the employment +of this specific preventive; for though vaccination has been proved +_not_ to be _always_ an infallible guard against small-pox, the attack +is always much lighter, should it occur, and is seldom, if indeed +_ever_, fatal after the precaution of vaccination. The best time to +vaccinate a child is after the sixth and before the twelfth week, if it +is in perfect health, but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent, and +any danger exists of the infant taking the disease. It is customary, and +always advisable, to give the child a mild aperient powder one or two +days before inserting the lymph in the arm; and should measles, scarlet +fever, or any other disease arise during the progress of the pustule, +the child, when recovered, should be _re-vaccinated_, and the lymph +taken from its arm on no account used for vaccinating purposes. + +2545. The disease of cow-pox generally takes twenty days to complete its +course; in other words, the maturity and declension of the pustule takes +that time to fulfil its several changes. The mode of vaccination is +either to insert the matter, or lymph, taken from a healthy child, under +the cuticle in several places on both arms, or, which is still better, +to make three slight scratches, or abrasions, with a lancet on one arm +in this manner, ,,",, and work into the irritated parts the lymph, +allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting down the infant's +sleeve; by this means absorption is insured, and the unnecessary pain of +several pustules on both arms avoided. No apparent change is observable +by the eye for several days; indeed, not till the fourth, in many cases, +is there any evidence of a vesicle; about the fifth day, however, a pink +areola, or circle, is observed round one or all of the places, +surrounding a small pearly vesicle or bladder. This goes on deepening in +hue till the seventh or eighth day, when the vesicle is about an inch in +diameter, with a depressed centre; on the ninth the edges are elevated, +and the surrounding part hard and inflamed. The disease is now at its +height, and the pustule should be opened, if not for the purpose of +vaccinating other children, to allow the escape of the lymph, and subdue +the inflammatory action. After the twelfth day the centre is covered by +a brown scab, and the colour of the swelling becomes darker, gradually +declining in hardness and colour till the twentieth, when the scab +falls, off, leaving a small pit, or cicatrix, to mark the seat of the +disease, and for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination. + +2546. In some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm is +excessive, and extremely painful, and the fever, about the ninth or +tenth day, very high; the pustule, therefore, at that time, should +sometimes be opened, the arm fomented every two hours with a warm bread +poultice, and an aperient powder given to the infant. + + +MEASLES AND SCARLET FEVER, WITH THE TREATMENT OF BOTH. + +Measles. + +2547. This much-dreaded disease, which forms the next subject in our +series of infantine diseases, and which entails more evils on the health +of childhood than any other description of physical suffering to which +that age of life is subject, may be considered more an affection of the +venous circulation, tending to general and local congestion, attended +with a diseased condition of the blood, than either as a fever or an +inflammation; and though generally classed before or after scarlet +fever, is, in its pathology and treatment, irrespective of its +after-consequences, as distinct and opposite as one disease can well be +from another. + +4548. As we have already observed, measles are always characterized by +the running at the nose and eyes, and great oppression of breathing; so, +in the mode of treatment, two objects are to be held especially in view; +first, to unload the congested state of the lungs,--the cause of the +oppressed breathing; and, secondly, to act vigorously, both during the +disease and afterwards, on the bowels. At the same time it cannot be too +strongly borne in mind, that though the patient in measles should on no +account be kept unduly hot, more care than in most infantine complaints +should be taken to guard the body from _cold_, or any abrupt changes of +temperature. With these special observations, we shall proceed to give a +description of the disease, as recognized by its usual-- + +2549. _Symptoms_, which commence with cold chills and flushes, +lassitude, heaviness, pain in the head, and drowsiness, cough, +hoarseness, and extreme difficulty of breathing, frequent sneezing, +deduction or running at the eyes and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting, +thirst, a furred tongue; the pulse throughout is quick, and sometimes +full and soft, at others hard and small, with other indications of an +inflammatory nature. + +2550. On the third day, small red points make their appearance, first on +the face and neck, gradually extending over the upper and lower part of +the body. On the fifth day, the vivid red of the eruption changes into a +brownish hue; and, in two or three days more, the rash entirely +disappears, leaving a loose powdery desquamation on the skin, which rubs +off like dandriff. At this stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequently +comes on, which, being what is called "critical," should never be +checked, unless seriously severe. Measles sometimes assume a typhoid or +malignant character, in which form the symptoms are all greatly +exaggerated, and the case from the first becomes both doubtful and +dangerous. In this condition the eruption comes out sooner, and only in +patches; and often, after showing for a few hours, suddenly recedes, +presenting, instead of the usual florid red, a dark purple or blackish +hue; a dark brown fur forms on the gums and mouth, the breathing becomes +laborious, delirium supervenes, and, if unrelieved, is followed by coma; +a fetid diarrhoea takes place, and the patient sinks under the congested +state of the lungs and the oppressed functions of the brain. + +2551. The unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever, +the excessive heat and dryness of the skin, hurried and short breathing, +and a particularly hard pulse. The sequels, or after-consequences, of +measles are, croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind the +ear, ophthalmia, and glandular swellings in other parts of the body. + +2552. _Treatment_.--In the first place, the patient should be kept in a +cool room, the temperature of which must be regulated to suit the +child's feelings of comfort, and the diet adapted to the strictest +principles of abstinence. When the inflammatory symptoms are severe, +bleeding, in some form, is often necessary, though, when adopted, it +must be in the _first stage_ of the disease; and, if the lungs are the +apprehended seat of the inflammation, two or more leeches, according to +the age and strength of the patient, must be applied to the upper part +of the chest, followed by a small blister; or the blister may be +substituted for the leeches, the attendant bearing in mind, that the +benefit effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented by +plunging the feet into very hot water about a couple of hours after +applying the blister, and kept in the water for about two minutes. And +let it further be remembered, that this immersion of the feet in hot +water may be adopted at any time or stage of the disease; and that, +whenever the _head_ or _lungs_ are oppressed, relief will _always_ +accrue from its sudden and brief employment. When the symptoms commence +with much shivering, and the skin early assumes a hot, dry character, +the appearance of the rash will be facilitated, and all the other +symptoms rendered milder, if the patient is put into a warm bath, and +kept in the water for about three minutes. Or, where that is not +convenient, the following process, which will answer quite as well, can +be substituted:--Stand the child, naked, in a tub, and, having first +prepared several jugs of sufficiently warm water, empty them, in quick +succession, over the patient's shoulders and body; immediately wrap in a +hot blanket, and put the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep that +always follows the effusion or bath. This agent, by lowering the +temperature of the skin, and opening the pores, producing a natural +perspiration, and unloading the congested state of the lungs, in most +cases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches and a +blister. Whether any of these external means have been employed or not, +the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperient +powders and a saline mixture, as prescribed in the following +formularies; at the same time, as a beverage to quench the thirst, let a +quantity of barley-water be made, slightly acidulated by the juice of an +orange, and partially sweetened by some sugar-candy; and of which, when +properly made and cold, let the patient drink as often as thirst, or the +dryness of the mouth, renders necessary. + +2553. _Aperient Powders_.--Take of scammony and jalap, each 24 grains; +grey powder and powdered antimony, each 18 grains. Mix and divide into +12 powders, if for a child between two and four years of age; into 8 +powders, if for a child between four and eight years of ago; and into 6 +powders for between eight and twelve years. One powder to be given, in a +little jelly or sugar-and-water, every three or four hours, according to +the severity of the symptoms. + +2554. _Saline Mixture_.--Take of mint-water, 6 ounces; powdered nitre, +20 grains; antimonial wine, 3 drachms; spirits of nitre, 2 drachms; +syrup of saffron, 2 drachms. Mix. To children under three years, give a +teaspoonful every two hours; from that age to six, a dessertspoonful at +the same times; and a tablespoonful every three or four hours to +children between six and twelve. + +2555. The object of these aperient powders is to keep up a steady but +gentle action on the bowels; but, whenever it seems necessary to +administer a stronger dose, and effect a brisk action on the digestive +organs,--a course particularly imperative towards the close of the +disease,--two of these powders given at once, according to the age, will +be found to produce that effect; that is, two of the twelve for a child +under four years, and two of the eight, and two of the six, according to +the age of the patient. + +2556. When the difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive, as it +generally does towards night, a hot bran poultice, laid on the chest, +will be always found highly beneficial. The diet throughout must be +light, and consist of farinaceous food, such as rice and sago puddings, +beef-tea and toast; and not till convalescence sets in should hard or +animal food be given. + +2557. When measles assume the malignant form, the advice just given must +be broken through; food of a nutritious and stimulating character should +be at once substituted, and administered in conjunction with wine, and +even spirits, and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus. +But, as this form of measles is not frequent, and, if occurring, hardly +likely to be treated without assistance, it is unnecessary to enter on +the minutiae of its practice here. What we have prescribed, in almost +all cases, will be found sufficient to meet every emergency, without +resorting to a multiplicity of agents. + +2558. The great point to remember in measles is, not to give up the +treatment with the apparent subsidence of the disease, as the +_after-consequences_ of measles are too often more serious, and to be +more dreaded, than the measles themselves. To guard against this danger, +and thoroughly purify the system, after the subsidence of all the +symptoms of the disease, a corrective course of medicine, and a regimen +of exercise, should be adopted for some weeks after the cure of the +disease. To effect this, an active aperient powder should be given every +three or four clays, with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mixture, +with as much exercise, by walking, running after a hoop, or other bodily +exertion, as the strength of the child and the state of the atmosphere +will admit, the patient being, wherever possible, removed to a purer air +as soon as convalescence warrants the change. + +2559. _Tonic Mixture_.--Take of infusion of rose-leaves, 6 ounces; +quinine, 8 grains; diluted sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix. Dose, from +half a teaspoonful up to a dessertspoonful, once a day, according to the +ago of the patient. + + +Scarlatina, or Scarlet Fever. + +2560. Though professional accuracy has divided this disease into several +forms, we shall keep to the one disease most generally mot with, the +common or simple scarlet fever, which, in all cases, is characterized by +an excessive heat on the skin, sore throat, and a peculiar speckled +appearance of the tongue. + +2561. _Symptoms_.--Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin, +quick pulse, with difficulty of swallowing; the tongue is coated, +presenting through its fur innumerable specks, the elevated papillae of +the tongue, which gives it the speckled character, that, if not the +invariable sign of scarlet fever, is only met with in cases closely +analogous to that disease. Between the _second_ and __third_ day, but +most frequently on the _third_, a bright red efflorescence breaks out in +patches on the face, neck, and back, from which it extends over the +trunk and extremities, always showing thicker and deeper in colour +wherever there is any pressure, such as the elbows, back, and hips; when +the eruption is well out, the skin presents the appearance of a boiled +lobster-shell. At first, the skin is smooth, but, as the disease +advances, perceptible roughness is apparent, from the elevation of the +rash, or, more properly, the pores of the skin. On the _fifth_ and +_sixth_ days the eruption begins to decline, and by the _eighth_ has +generally entirely disappeared. During the whole of this period, there +is, more or less, constant sore throat. + +2562. The _Treatment_ of scarlet fever is, in general, very simple. +Where the heat is great, and the eruption comes out with difficulty, or +recedes as soon as it appears, the body should be sponged with cold +vinegar-and-water, or tepid water, as in measles, poured over the chest +and body, the patient being, as in that disease, wrapped in a blanket +and put to bed, and the same powders and mixture ordered in measles +administered, with the addition of a constant hot bran poultice round +the throat, which should be continued from the first symptom till a day +or two after the declension of the rash. The same low diet and cooling +drink, with the same general instructions, are to be obeyed in this as +in the former disease. + +2563. When the fever runs high in the first stage, and there is much +nausea, before employing the effusions of water, give the patient an +emetic, of equal, parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, in doses of +from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to age. By these means, +nine out of every ten cases of scarlatina may be safely and +expeditiously cured, especially if the temperature of the patient's room +is kept at an even standard of about sixty degrees. + + +HOOPING-COUGH, CROUP, AND DIARRHOEA, WITH THEIR MODE OF TREATMENT. + +Hooping-Cough. + +2564. THIS is purely a spasmodic disease, and is only infectious through +the faculty of imitation, a habit that all children are remarkably apt +to fall into; and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough, it +has been from the same cause, and is as readily accounted for, on the +principle of imitation, as that the gaping of one person will excite or +predispose a whole party to follow the same spasmodic example. If any +one associates for a few days with a person who stammers badly, he will +find, when released from his company, that the sequence of his +articulation and the fluency of his speech are, for a time, gone; and it +will be a matter of constant vigilance, and some difficulty, to overcome +the evil of so short an association. The manner in which a number of +school-girls will, one after another, fall into a fit on beholding one +of their number attacked with epilepsy, must be familiar to many. These +several facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this spasmodic +disease. Every effort should, therefore, be directed, mentally and +physically, to break the chain of nervous action, on which the +continuance of the cough depends. + +2565. _Symptoms._--Hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression of +breathing, thirst, quick pulse, hoarseness, and a hard, dry cough. This +state may exist without any change from one to two or three weeks before +the peculiar feature of the disease-the _hoop_-sets in. As the +characteristics of this cough are known to all, it is unnecessary to +enter here, physiologically, on the subject. We shall, therefore, merely +remark that the frequent vomiting and bleeding at the mouth or nose are +favourable signs, and proceed to the + +2566. _Treatment_, which should consist in keeping up a state of nausea +and vomiting. For this purpose, give the child doses of ipecacuanha and +antimonial wines, in equal parts, and quantities varying from half to +one and a half teaspoonful once a day, or, when the expectoration is +hard and difficult of expulsion, giving the following cough mixture +every four hours. Take of + + Syrup of squills 1/2 ounce. + Antimonial wine 1 ounce. + Laudanum 15 drops. + Syrup of Toulou 2 drachms. + Water 1-1/2 ounce. + +Mix. The dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful. When the +cough is urgent, the warm bath is to be used, and either one or two +leeches applied over the breastbone, or else a small blister laid on the +lower part of the throat. + +2567. Such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough; but there is a +moral regimen, based on the nature of the disease, which should never be +omitted. And, on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of the +mind will arrest a person in the act of sneezing or gaping, so the like +means should be adopted with the hooping-cough patient; and, in the +first stage, before the _hooping_ has been added, the parent should +endeavour to break the paroxysm of the cough by abruptly attracting the +patient's attention, and thus, if possible, preventing the cough from +reaching that height when the ingulp of air gives the hoop or crow that +marks the disease; but when once that symptom has set in, it becomes +still more necessary to endeavour, by even measures of intimidation, to +break the spasmodic chain of the cough. Exercise in the open air, when +dry, is also requisite, and charge of scene and air in all cases is of +absolute necessity, and may be adopted at any stage of the disease. + +Croup. + +2568. This is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseases +to which infancy and childhood are liable, and is purely an inflammatory +affection, attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining the +windpipe and bronchial tubes, and from the effect of which a false or +loose membrane is formed along the windpipe, resembling in appearance +the finger of a glove suspended in the passage, and, consequently, +terminating the life of the patient by suffocation; for, as the lower +end grows together and becomes closed, no air can enter the lungs, and +the child dies choked. All dull, fat, and heavy children are peculiarly +predisposed to this disease, and those with short necks and who make a +wheezing noise in their natural breathing. Croup is always sudden in its +attack, and rapid in its career, usually proving fatal within three +days; most frequently commences in the night, and generally attacking +children between the ages of three and ten years. Mothers should, +therefore, be on their guard who have children predisposed to this +disease, and immediately resort to the means hereafter advised. + +2569. _Symptoms_.--Languor and restlessness, hoarseness, wheezing, and +short, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep, +the child often plucking at its throat with its fingers; difficulty of +breathing, which quickly becomes hard and laboured, causing great +anxiety of the countenance, and the veins of the neck to swell and +become knotted; the voice in speaking acquires a sharp, crowing, or +croupy sound, while the inspirations have a harsh, metallic intonation. +After a few hours, a quantity of thick, ropy mucus is thrown out, +hanging about the mouth, and causing suffocating fits of coughing to +expel. + +2570. Treatment.--Place the child immediately in a hot bath up to the +throat; and, on removal from the water, give an emetic of the antimonial +or ipecacuanha wine, and, when the vomiting has subsided, lay a long +blister down the front of the throat, and administer one of the +following powders every twenty minutes to a child from three to six +years of age. + +2571. Take of calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar, +30 grains. Mix accurately, and divide into 12 powders. For a child from +six to twelve years, divide into 6 powders, and give one every +half-hour. + +2572. Should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours, apply one +or two leeches to the throat, and put mustard poultices to the foot and +thighs, retaining them about eight minutes; and, in extreme cases, a +mustard poultice to the spine between the shoulders, and at the same +time rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws. + +2573. Such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severe +cases of croup; but, in the milder and more general form, the following +abridgment will, in all probability, be all that will be +required:--First, the hot bath; second, the emetic; third, a mustard +plaster round the throat for five minutes; fourth, the powders; fifth, +another emetic in six hours, if needed, and the powders continued +without intermission while the urgency of the symptoms continues. When +relief has been obtained, these are to be discontinued, and a dose of +senna tea given to act on the bowels. + + +Diarrhoea. + +2574. The diarrhoea with which children are so frequently affected, +especially in infancy, should demand the nurse's immediate attention, +and when the secretion, from its clayey colour, indicates an absence of +bile, a powder composed of 3 grains of grey powder and 1 grain of +rhubarb, should be given twice, with an interval of four hours between +each dose, to a child from one to two years, and, a day or two +afterwards, an aperient powder containing the same ingredients and +quantities, with the addition of 2 or 3 grains of scammony. For the +relaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach, or acidity in the +bowels, a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two or +three times a day. + +2575. When much griping and pain attend the diarrhoea, half a +teaspoonful of Dalby's Carminative (the best of all patent medicines) +should be given, either with or without a small quantity of castor oil +to carry off the exciting cause. + +2576. For any form of diarrhoea that, by excessive action, demands a +speedy correction, the most efficacious remedy that can be employed in +all ages and conditions of childhood is the tincture of Kino, of which +from 10 to 30 drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, are +to be given every two or three hours till the undue action has been +checked. Often the change of diet to rice, milk, eggs, or the +substitution of animal for vegetable food, or _vice versa_, will correct +an unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea. + +2577. A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be +kept in the house, and employed with advantage, whenever the child is in +pain or griped, by dropping 5 grains of oil of aniseed and 2 of +peppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, +with a drachm of magnesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of this +may be given in a little water at any time, and always with benefit. + + + + +THE DOCTOR. + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + + +2578. "Time," according to the old proverb, "is money;" and it may also, +in many cases, and with equal truthfulness, be said to be life; for a +few moments, in great emergencies, often turn the balance between +recovery and death. This applies more especially to all kinds of +poisoning, fits, submersion in water, or exposure to noxious gases; and +many accidents. If people knew how to act during the interval that must +necessarily elapse from the moment that a medical man is sent for until +he arrives, many lives might be saved, which now, unhappily, are lost. +Generally speaking, however, nothing is done--all is confusion and +fright; and the surgeon, on his arrival, finds that death has already +seized its victim, who, had his friends but known a few rough rules for +their guidance, might have been rescued. We shall, therefore, in a +series of papers, give such information as to the means to be employed +in event of accidents, injuries, &c., as, by the aid of a gentleman of +large professional experience, we are warranted in recommending. + +List of Drugs, &c., necessary to carry out all Instructions. + +2579. We append at once A LIST OF DRUGS, &c., and a few PRESCRIPTIONS +necessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series of +articles. It will be seen that they are few--they are not expensive; and +by laying in a little stock of them, our instructions will be of instant +value in all cases of accident, &c.--The drugs are--Antimonial Wine. +Antimonial Powder. Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate of +Potash. Compound Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. Compound +Tincture of Camphor. Epsom Salts. Goulard's Extract. Jalap in Powder. +Linseed Oil. Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentine. Opium, +powdered, and Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment, +Opodeldoc. Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Turner's Cerate.--To which should be +added: Common Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of small +Scales with Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. A +Probe. A pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles. + +2580. The following PRESCRIPTIONS may be made up for a few shillings; +and, by keeping them properly labelled, and by referring to the remarks +on the treatment of any particular case, much suffering, and, perhaps, +some lives, may be saved. + +2581. _Draught_.--Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a +half of water. This draught is to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if +vomiting does not take place. + +2582. _Clyster_.--Two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of +warm gruel. + +2583. _Liniments_.--1. Equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil well +mixed together. [Lime-water is made thus: Pour 6 pints of boiling water +upon 1/4 lb. of lime; mix well together, and when cool, strain the +liquid from off the lime which has fallen to the bottom, taking care to +get it as clear as possible.] 2. Compound camphor liniment. + +2584. _Lotions_.--1. Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and 2 +tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water.--2. Mix 1/2 oz. of +sal-ammoniac, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin +or whisky, in half a pint of water. + +2585. _Goulard Lotion_.--1 drachm of sugar of lead, 2 pints of +rain-water, 2 teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine. For inflammation of the +eyes or elsewhere:--The better way of making Goulard Lotion, if for the +eyes, is to add to 6 oz. of distilled water, or water that has been well +boiled, 1 drachm of the extract of lead. + +2586. _Opodeldoc_.--This lotion being a valuable application for +sprains, lumbago, weakness of joints, &c., and it being difficult to +procure either pure or freshly made, we give a recipe for its +preparation. Dissolve 1 oz. of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of +wine; then dissolve 4 oz. of hard white Spanish soap, scraped thin, in 4 +oz. of oil of rosemary, and mix them together. + +2587. _The Common Black Draught_.--Infusion of senna 10 drachms; Epsom +salts 10 drachms; tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamums, +compound spirit of lavender, of each 1 drachm. Families who make black +draught in quantity, and wish to preserve it for some time without +spoiling, should add about 2 drachms of spirits of hartshorn to each +pint of the strained mixture, the use of this drug being to prevent its +becoming mouldy or decomposed. A simpler and equally efficacious form of +black draught is made by infusing 1/2 oz. of Alexandrian senna, 3 oz. of +Epsom salts, and 2 drachms of bruised ginger and coriander-seeds, for +several hours in a pint of boiling water, straining the liquor, and +adding either 2 drachms of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to the +whole, and giving 3 tablespoonfuls for a dose to an adult. + +2588. _Mixtures_--1. _Aperient_.--Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in +half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose, and +repeat it in three or four hours if necessary. + +2589. 2. _Fever Mixture_.--Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of +carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a +tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of water. + +2590. 3. _Myrrh and Aloes Pills_.--Ten grains made into two pills are +the dose for a full-grown person. + +2591. 4. _Compound Iron Pills_.--Dose for a full-grown person: 10 grains +made into two pills. + +2592. _Pills_.--1. Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of +antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. +Dose for a full-grown person: two pills.--2. Mix 5 grains of blue pill +and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth together, and +make into two pills, the dose for a full-grown person. + +2593. _Powders_.--Mix a grain of calomel and 4 grains of powdered jalap +together. + +2594. In all cases, the dose of medicines given is to be regulated by +the age of the patient. + +2595. _Abernethy's Plan for making a Bread-and-Water Poultice_.--First +scald out a basin; then having put in some boiling water, throw in +coarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When the bread has +soaked up as much water as it will imbibe, drain off the remaining +water, and there will be left a light pulp. Spread it a third of an inch +thick on folded linen, and apply it when of the temperature of a warm +bath. To preserve it moist, occasionally drop warm water on it. + +2596. _Linseed-Meal Poultice_.--"Scald your basin, by pouring a little +hot water into it; then put a small quantity of finely-ground +linseed-meal into the basin, pour a little hot water on it, and stir it +round briskly until you have well incorporated them; add a little more +meal and a little more water; then stir it again. Do not let any lumps +remain in the basin, but stir the poultice well, and do not be sparing +of your trouble. What you do next, is to take as much of it out of the +basin as you may require, lay it on a piece of soft linen, and let it be +about a quarter of an inch thick."--_Abernethy_. + +2597. _Mustard Poultice_.--Mix equal parts of dry mustard and +linseed-meal in warm vinegar. When the poultice is wanted weak, warm +water may be used for the vinegar; and when it is required very strong, +mustard alone, without any linseed-meal, is to be mixed with warm +vinegar. + +2598. _An ordinary Blister_.--Spread a little blister compound on a +piece of common adhesive plaster with the right thumb. It should be put +on just thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath. +The part from which a blister has been taken should be covered till it +heals over with soft linen rags smeared with lard. + + +Baths and Fomentations. + +2599. All fluid applications to the body are exhibited either in a hot +or cold form; and the object for which they are administered is to +produce a stimulating effect over the entire, or a part, of the system; +for the effect, though differently obtained, and varying in degree, is +the same in principle, whether procured by hot or cold water. + +2600. _Heat_.--There are three forms in which heat is universally +applied to the body,--that of the tepid, warm, and vapour bath; but as +the first is too inert to be worth notice, and the last dangerous and +inapplicable, except in public institutions, we shall confine our +remarks to the really efficacious and always attainable one--the + +2601. _Warm and Hot Bath_.--These baths are used whenever there is +congestion, or accumulation of blood in the internal organs, causing +pain, difficulty of breathing, or stupor, and are employed, by their +stimulating property, to cause a rush of blood to the surface, and, by +unloading the great organs, produce a temporary inflammation in the +skin, and so equalize the circulation. The effect of the hot bath is to +increase the fulness of the pulse, accelerate respiration, and excite +perspiration. In all inflammations of the stomach and bowels, the hot +bath is of the utmost consequence; the temperature of the warm bath +varies from 92 deg. to 100 deg., and may be obtained by those who have no +thermometer to test the exact heat, by mixing one measure of boiling +with two of cold water. + +2602. _Fomentations_ are generally used to effect, in a part, the +benefit produced on the whole body by the bath; to which a sedative +action is occasionally given by the use of roots, herbs, or other +ingredients; the object being to relieve the internal organ, as the +throat, or muscles round a joint, by exciting a greater flow of blood to +the skin _over_ the affected part. As the real agent of relief is heat, +the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably be borne, +and, to insure effect, should be repeated every half-hour. Warm fluids +are applied in order to render the swelling which accompanies +inflammation less painful, by the greater readiness with which the skin +yields, than when it is harsh and dry. They are of various kinds; but +the most simple, and oftentimes the most useful, that can be employed, +is "Warm Water." Another kind of fomentation is composed of dried +poppyheads, 4 oz. Break them to pieces, empty out the seeds, put them +into 4 pints of water, boil for a quarter of an hour, then strain +through a cloth or sieve, and keep the water for use. Or, chamomile +flowers, hemlock, and many other plants, may be boiled, and the part +fomented with the hot liquor, by means of flannels wetted with the +decoction. + +2603. _Cold_, when applied in excess to the body, drives the blood from +the surface to the centre, reduces the pulse, makes the breathing hard +and difficult, produces coma, and, if long continued, death. But when +medicinally used, it excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to a +stimulating effect; as in some cases of fever, when the body has been +sponged with cold water, it excites, by reaction, increased circulation +on the skin. Cold is sometimes used to keep up a repellent action, as, +when local inflammation takes place, a remedy is applied, which, by its +benumbing and astringent effect, causes the blood, or the excess of it +in the part, to recede, and, by contracting the vessels, prevents the +return of any undue quantity, till the affected part recovers its tone. +Such remedies are called _Lotions_, and should, when used, be applied +with the same persistency as the fomentation; for, as the latter should +be renewed as often as the heat passes off, so the former should be +applied as often as the heat from the skin deprives the application of +its cold. + +2604. _Poultices_ are only another form of fomentation, though chiefly +used for abscesses. The ingredient best suited for a poultice is that +which retains heat the longest; of these ingredients, the best are +linseed--meal, bran, and bread. Bran sewed into a bag, as it can be +reheated, will be found the cleanest and most useful; especially for +sore throats. + + +How to Bleed. + +2605. In cases of great emergency, such as the strong kind of apoplexy, +and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerable +time, the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact of +his being bled or not. We therefore give instructions how the operation +of bleeding is to be performed, but caution the reader only to attempt +it in cases of the greatest emergency. Place a handkerchief or piece of +tape rather but not too tightly round the arm, about three or four +inches above the elbow. This will cause the veins below to swell and +become very evident. If this is not sufficient, the hand should be +constantly and quickly opened and shut for the same purpose. There will +now be seen, passing up the middle of the fore-arm, a vein which, just +below the bend of the elbow, sends a branch inwards and outwards, each +branch shortly joining another large vein. It is from the _outer_ +branch--that the person is to be bled. The right arm is the one mostly +operated on. The operator should take the lancet in his right hand, +between the thumb and first finger, place the thumb of his left hand on +the vein below the part where he is going to bleed from, and then gently +thrust the tip of the lancet into the vein, and, taking care not to push +it too deeply, cut in a gently curved direction, thus and bring it +out, point upwards, at about half an inch from the part of the vein into +which he had thrust it. The vein must be cut lengthways, and not across. +When sufficient blood has been taken away, remove the bandage from above +the elbow, and place the thumb of the left hand firmly over the cut, +until all the bleeding ceases. A small pad of lint is then to be put +over the cut, with a larger pad over it, and the two kept in their +places by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty tightly +over them and round the arm. + +2606. When a person is bled, he should always be in the standing, or at +any rate in the sitting, position; for if, as is often the case, he +should happen to faint, he can, in, most eases at least, easily be +brought to again by the operator placing him flat on his back, and +stopping the bleeding. _This is of the greatest importance._ It has been +recommended, for what supposed advantages we don't know, to bleed people +when they are lying down. Should a person, under these circumstances, +faint, what could be done to bring him to again? The great treatment of +lowering the body of the patient to the flat position cannot be followed +here. It is in that position already, and cannot be placed lower than it +at present is--except, as is most likely to be the case, under the +ground. + +2607. BLEEDING FROM THE NOSE.--Many children, especially those of a +sanguineous temperament, are subject to sudden discharges of blood from +some part of the body; and as all such fluxes are in general the result +of an effort of nature to relieve the system from some overload or +pressure, such discharges, unless in excess, and when likely to produce +debility, should not be rashly or too abruptly checked. In general, +these discharges are confined to the summer or spring months of the +year, and follow pains in the head, a sense of drowsiness, languor, or +oppression; and, as such symptoms are relieved by the loss of blood, the +hemorrhage should, to a certain extent, be encouraged. When, however, +the bleeding is excessive, or returns too frequently, it becomes +necessary to apply means to subdue or mitigate the amount. For this +purpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is itself +sufficient, in most cases, to arrest the most active hemorrhage. A wet +towel laid suddenly on the back, between the shoulders, and placing the +child in a recumbent posture, is often sufficient to effect the object; +where, however, the effusion resists such simple means, napkins wrung +out of cold water must be laid across the forehead and nose, the hands +dipped in cold water, and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet. If, +in spite of these means, the bleeding continues, a little fine wool or a +few folds of lint, tied together by a piece of thread, must be pushed up +the nostril from which the blood flows, to act as a plug and pressure on +the bleeding vessel. When the discharge has entirely ceased, the plug is +to be pulled out by means of the thread. To prevent a repetition of the +hemorrhage, the body should be sponged every morning with cold water, +and the child put under a course of steel wine, have open-air exercise, +and, if possible, salt-water bathing. For children, a key suddenly +dropped down the back between the skin and clothes, will often +immediately arrest a copious bleeding. + +2608. SPITTING OF BLOOD, or hemorrhage from the lungs, is generally +known from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour, and +in less quantities than that, which is always grumous and mixed with the +half-digested food. In either case, rest should be immediately enjoined, +total abstinence from stimulants, and a low, poor diet, accompanied with +the horizontal position, and bottles of boiling water to the feet. At +the same time the patient should suck through a quill, every hour, half +a wine-glass of water in which 10 or 15 drops of the elixir of vitriol +has been mixed, and, till further advice has been procured, keep a towel +wrung out of cold water on the chest or stomach, according to the seat +of the hemorrhage. + + +Bites and Stings. + +2609. BITES AND STINGS may be divided into three kinds:--1. Those of +Insects. 2. Those of Snakes. 3. Those of Dogs and other Animals. + +2610. 1. _The Bites or Stings of Insects_, such as gnats, bees, wasps, +&c., need cause very little alarm, and are, generally speaking, easily +cured. They are very serious, however, when they take place on some +delicate part of the body, such as near the eye, or in the throat. _The +treatment_ is very simple in most cases; and consists in taking out the +sting, if it is left behind, with a needle, and applying to the part a +liniment made of finely-scraped chalk and olive-oil, mixed together to +about the thickness of cream. + +2611. Bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is +also of great use. If the person feels faint, he should lie quietly on +his back, and take a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water. +When the inside of the throat is the part stung, there is great danger +of violent inflammation taking place. In this case, from eight to twelve +leeches should be immediately put to the outside of the throat, and when +they drop off, the part to which they had been applied should be well +fomented with warm water. The inside of the throat is to be constantly +gargled with salt and water. Bits of ice are to be sucked. Rubbing the +face and hands well over with plain olive-oil, before going to bed, will +often keep gnats and musquitoes from biting during the night. Strong +scent, such as eau-de-Cologne, will have the same effect. + +2612. 2. _Bites of Snakes_.--These are much more dangerous than the +preceding, and require more powerful remedies. The bites of the +different kinds of snakes do not all act alike, but affect people in +different ways.--_Treatment of the part bitten_. The great thing is to +prevent the poison getting into the blood; and, if possible, to remove +the whole of it at once from the body. A pocket-handkerchief, a piece of +tape or cord, or, in fact, of anything that is at hand, should be tied +tightly round the part of the body bitten; if it be the leg or arm, +immediately _above_ the bite, and between it and the heart. The bite +should then be sucked several times by any one who is near. There is no +danger in this, provided the person who does it has not got the skin +taken off any part of his mouth. What has been sucked into the mouth +should be immediately spit out again. But if those who are near have +sufficient nerve for the operation, and a suitable instrument, they +should cut out the central part bitten, and then bathe the wound for +some time with warm water, to make it bleed freely. The wound should +afterwards be rubbed with a stick of lunar caustic, or, what is better, +a solution of this--60 grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of +water--should be dropped into it. The band should be kept on the part +during the whole of the time that these means are being adopted. The +wound should afterwards be covered with lint dipped in cold water. The +best plan, however, to be adopted, if it can be managed, is the +following:--take a common wine-glass, and, holding it upside down, put a +lighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two. This will +take out the air. Then clap the glass suddenly over the bitten part, and +it will become attached, and hold on to the flesh. The glass being +nearly empty, the blood containing the poison will, in consequence, flow +into it from the wound of its own accord. This process should be +repeated three or four times, and the wound sucked, or washed with warm +water, before each application of the glass. As a matter of course, when +the glass is removed, all the blood should be washed out of it before it +is applied again.--_Constitutional Treatment_. There is mostly at first +great depression of strength in these cases, and it is therefore +requisite to give some stimulant; a glass of hot brandy-and-water, or +twenty drops of sal-volatile, is the best that can be given. When the +strength has returned, and if the patient has not already been sick, a +little mustard in hot water should be given, to make him so. If, on the +other hand, as is often the case, the vomiting is excessive, a large +mustard poultice should be placed over the stomach, and a grain of solid +opium swallowed in the form of a pill, for the purpose of stopping it. +Only one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person. In +all cases of bites from snakes, send for a surgeon as quickly as +possible, and act according to the above directions until he arrives. If +he is within any reasonable distance, content yourself by putting on the +band, sucking the wound, applying the glass, and, if necessary, giving a +little brandy-and-water. + +2613. 3. _Bites of Dogs_.--For obvious reasons, these kinds of bites are +more frequently met with than those of snakes. _The treatment_ is the +same as that for snake-bites, more especially that of the bitten part. +The majority of writers on the subject are in favour of keeping the +wound open as long as possible. This may be done by putting a few beans +on it, and then by applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them. + + +Injuries and Accidents to Bones. + +2614. _Dislocation of Bones_.--When the end of a bone is pushed out of +its natural position, it is said to be dislocated. This may be caused by +violence, disease, or natural weakness of the parts about a +joint.--_Symptoms_. Deformity about the joint, with unnatural prominence +at one part, and depression at another. The limb may be shorter or +longer than usual, and is stiff and unable to be moved, differing in +these last two respects from a broken limb, which is mostly shorter, +never longer, than usual, and which is always more movable.--_Treatment_. +So much practical science and tact are requisite in order to bring a +dislocated bone into its proper position again, that we strongly advise +the reader never to interfere in these cases; unless, indeed, it is +altogether impossible to obtain the services of a surgeon. But because +any one of us may very possibly be placed in that emergency, we give a +few rough rules for the reader's guidance. In the first place make the +joint, from which the bone has been displaced, perfectly steady, either +by fixing it to some firm object or else by holding it with the hands; +then pull the dislocated bone in a direction towards the place from +which it has been thrust, so that, if it moves at all from its unnatural +position, it may have the best chance of returning to its proper place. +Do not, however, pull or press against the parts too violently, as you +may, perhaps, by doing so, rupture blood-vessels, and produce most +serious consequences. When you _do_ attempt to reduce a dislocated bone, +do it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place, every +hour making the operation more difficult. When the patient is very +strong, he may be put into a warm bath until he feels faint, or have +sixty drops of antimonial wine given him every ten minutes until he +feels sickish. These two means are of great use in relaxing the muscles. +If the bone has been brought back again to its proper place, keep it +there by means of bandages; and if there is much pain about the joint, +apply a cold lotion to it, and keep it perfectly at rest. The lotion +should be, a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract, and two tablespoonfuls +of vinegar, mixed in a pint of water. Leeches are sometimes necessary. +Unless the local pain, or general feverish symptoms, are great, the +patient's diet should be the same as usual. Dislocations may be reduced +a week, or even a fortnight, after they have taken place. As, therefore, +although the sooner a bone is reduced the better, there is no very great +emergency, and as the most serious consequences may follow improper or +too violent treatment, it is always better for people in these cases to +do too little than too much; inasmuch as the good which has not yet may +still be done, whereas the evil that _has_ been done cannot so easily be +undone. + +2615. FRACTURES OF BONES.--_Symptoms_. 1. Deformity of the part. 2. +Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the two ends of the broken +bone are rubbed together. 4. Loss of natural motion and power. In some +cases there is also shortening of the limb.--Fracture takes place from +several causes, as a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from the +violent action of muscles.--_Treatment_. In cases where a surgeon cannot +be procured immediately after the accident, the following general rules +are offered for the reader's guidance:--The broken limb should be placed +and kept as nearly as possible in its natural position. This is to be +done by first pulling the two portions of the bone in opposite +directions, until the limb becomes as long as the opposite one, and then +by applying a splint, and binding it to the part by means of a roller. +When there is no deformity, the pulling is of course unnecessary. If +there is much swelling about the broken part, a cold lotion is to be +applied. This lotion (_which we will call Lotion No. 1_) may be thus +made:--Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and two +tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. When the leg or arm is +broken, always, if possible, get it to the same length and form as the +opposite limb. The broken part should be kept perfectly quiet. When a +broken limb is deformed, and a particular muscle is on the stretch, +place the limb in such a position as will relax it. This will in most +cases cure the deformity. Brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, +are to be given when the patient is faint. Surgical aid should, of +course, be procured as soon as possible. + +2616. JOINTS, INJURIES TO.--All kinds of injuries to joints, of whatever +description, require particular attention, in consequence of the violent +inflammations which are so liable to take place in these parts of the +body, and which do so much mischief in a little time. The joint injured +should always be kept perfectly at rest; and when it is very painful, +and the skin about it red, swollen, hot, and shining, at the same time +that the patient has general feverish symptoms, such as great thirst and +headache--leeches, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations, are +to be applied; the No. 1 pills above-mentioned are to be given (two are +a dose for a grown person) with a black draught three hours afterwards. +Give also two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture every four hours, and +keep the patient on low diet. When the injury and swelling are not very +great, warm applications, with rest, low diet, and a dose of aperient +medicine, will be sufficient. When a joint has received a penetrating +wound, it will require the most powerful treatment, and can only be +properly attended to by a surgeon. The patient's friends will have to +use their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many other +cases, as to when leeches, fever-mixture, &c., are necessary. A +universal rule, however, without a single exception, _is always to rest +a joint well_ after it has been injured in any way whatever, to purge +the patient, and to keep him on low diet, without beer, unless he has +been a very great drinker indeed, in which case he may still be allowed +to take a little; for if the stimulant that a person has been accustomed +to in excess be all taken away at once, he is very likely to have an +attack of delirium tremens. The quantity given should not, however, be +much--say a pint, or, at the most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing the +joint with opodeldoc, or the application of a blister to it, is of great +service in taking away the thickenings, which often remain after all +heat, pain, and redness have left an injured joint. Great care should be +observed in not using a joint too quickly after it has been injured. +When the shoulder-joint is the one injured, the arm should be bound +tightly to the body by means of a linen or flannel roller, and the elbow +raised; when the elbow, it should be kept raised in the straight +position, on a pillow; when the wrist, it should be raised on the chest, +and suspended in a sling; when the knee, it should be kept in the +straight position; and, lastly, when the ankle, it should be a little +raised on a pillow. + +2617. BRUISES, LACERATIONS, AND CUTS.--Wherever the bruise may be, or +however swollen or discoloured the skin may become, two or three +applications of the _extract of lead_, kept to the part by means of +lint, will, in an hour or little more, remove all pain, swelling, and +tenderness. Simple or clean cuts only require the edges of the wound to +be placed in their exact situation, drawn close together, and secured +there by one or two slips of adhesive plaster. When the wound, however, +is jagged, or the flesh or cuticle lacerated, the parts are to be laid +as smooth and regular as possible, and a piece of lint, wetted in the +_extract of lead_, laid upon the wound, and a piece of greased lint +placed above it to prevent the dressing sticking; the whole covered over +to protect from injury, and the part dressed in the same manner once a +day till the cure is effected. + +2618. BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT.--The best application for a bruise, +be it large or small, is moist warmth; therefore, a warm bread-and-water +poultice in hot moist flannels should be put on, as they supple the +skin. If the bruise be very severe, and in the neighbourhood of a joint, +it will be well to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruised +part, and afterwards a poultice. But leeches should not be put on young +children. If the bruised part be the knee or the ankle, walking should +not be attempted till it can be performed without pain. Inattention to +this point often lays the foundation for serious mischief in these +joints, especially in the case of scrofulous persons. In all conditions +of bruises occurring in children, whether swellings or abrasions, no +remedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure extract of +lead applied to the part. + + +Burns and Scalds. + +2619. BURNS AND SCALDS being essentially the same in all particulars, +and differing only in the manner of their production, may be spoken of +together. As a general rule, scalds are less severe than burns, because +the heat of water, by which scalds are mostly produced, is not, even +when it is boiling, so intense as that of flame; oil, however, and other +liquids, whose boiling-point is high, produce scalds of a very severe +nature. Burns and scalds have been divided into three classes. The first +class comprises those where the burn is altogether superficial, and +merely reddens the skin; the second, where the injury is greater, and we +get little bladders containing a fluid (called serum) dotted over the +affected part; in the third class we get, in the case of burns, a +charring, and in that of scalds, a softening or pulpiness, perhaps a +complete and immediate separation of the part. This may occur at once, +or in the course of a little time. The pain from the second kind of +burns is much more severe than that in the other two, although the +danger, as a general rule, is less than it is in the third class. These +injuries are much more dangerous when they take place on the trunk than +when they happen on the arms or legs. The danger arises more from the +extent of surface that is burnt than from the depth to which the burn +goes. This rule, of course, has certain exceptions; because a small burn +on the chest or belly penetrating deeply is more dangerous than a more +extensive but superficial one on the arm or leg. When a person's clothes +are in flames, the best way of extinguishing them is to wind a rug, or +some thick material, tightly round the whole of the body. + +2620. _Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds_.--_Of the part +affected_.--Cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour, or +cotton-wool with flour dredged well into it. The great thing is to keep +the affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air. The part +will shortly get well, and the skin may or may not peel +off.--_Constitutional Treatment_. If the burn or scald is not extensive, +and there is no prostration of strength, this is very simple, and +consists in simply giving a little aperient medicine--pills (No. 2), as +follows:--Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound +extract of colocynth, and make into two pills--the dose for a full-grown +person. Three hours after the pills give a black draught. If there are +general symptoms of fever, such as hot skin, thirst, headache, &c. &c., +two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to be given every four hours. +The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is made thus:-Mix a drachm of +powdered nitro, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of +antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro, in half +a pint of water. + +2621. _Second Class. Local Treatment_.--As the symptoms of these kinds +of burns are more severe than those of the first class, so the remedies +appropriate to them are more powerful. Having, as carefully as possible, +removed the clothes from the burnt surface, and taking care not to break +the bladders, spread the following liniment (No. 1) on a piece of linen +or lint--not the _fluffy_ side--and apply it to the part: the liniment +should be equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil, well mixed. If the +burn is on the trunk of the body, it is better to use a warm +linseed-meal poultice. After a few days dress the wound with Turner's +cerate. If the burn is at the bend of the elbow, place the arm in the +_straight_ position; for if it is _bent_, the skin, when healed, will be +contracted, and the arm, in all probability, always remain in the same +un natural position. This, indeed, applies to all parts of the body; +therefore, always place the part affected in the most _stretched_ +position possible.--_Constitutional Treatment_. The same kind of +treatment is to be used as for the first class, only it must be more +powerful. Stimulants are move often necessary, but must be given with +great caution. If, as is often the case, there is great irritability and +restlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses of from sixty to a +hundred drops, according to age, is best) is of great service. The +feverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever mixture. +A drink made of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a little +lemon-juice, in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is a very nice +one in these cases. The diet throughout should not be too low, +especially if there is much discharge from the wound. After a few days +it is often necessary to give wine, ammonia, and strong beef-tea. These +should be had recourse to when the tongue gets dry and dark, and the +pulse weak and frequent. If there should be, after the lapse of a week +or two, pain over one particular part of the belly, a blister should be +put on it, and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder, and Dover's +powder (two grains of the former and five of the latter) given three +times a day. Affections of the head and chest also frequently occur as a +consequence of these kinds of burns, but no one who is not a medical man +can treat them. + +2622. _Third Class_.--These are so severe as to make it impossible for a +non-professional person to be of much service in attending to them. When +they occur, a surgeon should always be sent for. Until he arrives, +however, the following treatment should be adopted:--Place the patient +full-length on his back, and keep him warm. Apply fomentations of +flannels wrung out of boiling water and sprinkled with spirits of +turpentine to the part, and give wine and sal-volatile in such +quantities as the prostration of strength requires; always bearing in +mind the great fact that you have to steer between two quicksands--death +from present prostration and death from future excitement, which will +always be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants given. +Give, therefore, only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keep +life in the body. + +2623. CONCUSSION OF BRAIN--STUNNING.--This may be caused by a blow or a +fall.--_Symptoms_. Cold skin; weak pulse; almost total insensibility; +slow, weak breathing; pupil of eye sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller, +than natural; inability to move; unwillingness to answer when spoken to. +These symptoms come on directly after the accident.--_Treatment_. Place +the patient quietly on a warm bed, send for a surgeon, _and do nothing +else for the first four or six hours_. After this time the skin will +become hot, the pulse full, and the patient feverish altogether. If the +surgeon has not arrived by the time these symptoms have set in, shave +the patient's head, and apply the following lotion (No. 2): Mix half an +ounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same +quantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water. Then give this pill +(No. 1); Mix five grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial +powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Give a black +draught three hours after the pill, and two tablespoonfuls of the +above-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours. Keep on low diet. +Leeches are sometimes to be applied to the head. These cases are often +followed by violent inflammation of the brain. They can, therefore, only +be attended to properly throughout by a surgeon. The great thing for +people to do in these cases is--nothing; contenting themselves with +putting the patient to bed, and waiting the arrival of a surgeon. + +2624. THE CHOLERA AND AUTUMNAL COMPLAINTS.--To oppose cholera, there +seems no surer or better means than cleanliness, sobriety, and judicious +ventilation. Where there is dirt, that is the place for cholera; where +windows and doors are kept most jealously shut, there cholera will find +easiest entrance; and people who indulge in intemperate diet during the +hot days of autumn are actually courting death. To repeat it, +cleanliness, sobriety, and free ventilation almost always defy the +pestilence; but, in case of attack, immediate recourse should be had to +a physician. The faculty say that a large number of lives have been +lost, in many seasons, solely from delay in seeking medical assistance. +They even assert that, taken early, the cholera is by no means a fatal +disorder. The copious use of salt is recommended on very excellent +authority. Other autumnal complaints there are, of which diarrhoea is +the worst example. They come on with pain, flatulence, sickness, with or +without vomiting, followed by loss of appetite, general lassitude, and +weakness. If attended to at the first appearance, they may soon be +conquered; for which purpose it is necessary to assist nature in +throwing off the contents of the bowels, which may be one by means of +the following prescription:--Take of calomel 3 grains, rhubarb 8 grains; +mix and take it in a little honey or jelly, and repeat the dose three +times, at the intervals of four or five hours. The next purpose to be +answered is the defence of the lining membrane of the intestines from +their acrid contents, which will be best effected by drinking copiously +of linseed tea, or of a drink made by pouring boiling water on +quince-seeds, which are of a very mucilaginous nature; or, what is still +better, full draughts of whey. If the complaint continue after these +means have been employed, some astringent or binding medicine will be +required, as the subjoined:--Take of prepared chalk 2 drachms, +cinnamon-water 7 oz., syrup of poppies 1 oz.; mix, and take 3 +tablespoonfuls every four hours. Should this fail to complete the cure, +1/2 oz. of tincture of catechu, or of kino, may be added to it, and then +it will seldom fail; or a teaspoonful of the tincture of kino alone, +with a little water, every three hours, till the diarrhoea is checked. +While any symptoms of derangement are present, particular attention must +be paid to the diet, which should be of a soothing, lubricating, and +light nature, as instanced in veal or chicken broth, which should +contain but little salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will be +generally relished, and be eaten with advantage; but the stomach is too +much impaired to digest food of a more solid nature. Indeed, we should +give that organ, together with the bowels, as little trouble as +possible, while they are so incapable of acting in their accustomed +manner. Much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd practice of +taking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost certain of aggravating that +species of disorder of which we have now treated; for it is a spirit as +strong as brandy, and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface which +is rendered tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile. But +our last advice is, upon the first appearance of such symptoms as are +above detailed, have _immediate_ recourse to a doctor, where possible. + +2625. TO CURE A COLD.--Put a large teacupful of linseed, with 1/4 lb. of +sun raisins and 2 oz. of stick liquorice, into 2 quarts of soft water, +and let it simmer over a slow fire till reduced to one quart; add to it +1/4 lb. of pounded sugar-candy, a tablespoonful of old rum, and a +tablespoonful of the best white-wine vinegar, or lemon-juice. The rum +and vinegar should be added as the decoction is taken; for, if they are +put in at first, the whole soon becomes flat and less efficacious. The +dose is half a pint, made warm, on going to bed; and a little may be +taken whenever the cough is troublesome. The worst cold is generally +cured by this remedy in two or three days; and, if taken in time, is +considered infallible. + +2626. COLD ON THE CHEST.--A flannel dipped in boiling water, and +sprinkled with turpentine, laid on the chest as quickly as possible, +will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness. + +2627. SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE.--To remove fine particles of gravel, lime, +&c., the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them. +Be particular not to worry the eye, under the impression that the +substance is still there, which the enlargement of some of the minute +vessels makes the patient believe is actually the case. + +2628. SORE EYES.--Incorporate thoroughly, in a glass mortar or vessel, +one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti +ointment. Use the mixture night and morning, by placing a piece of the +size of a pea in the corner of the eye affected, only to be used in +cases of chronic or long-standing inflammation of the organ, or its +lids. + +2629. LIME IN THE EYE.--Bathe the eye with a little weak +vinegar-and-water, and carefully remove any little piece of lime which +may be seen, with a feather. If any lime has got entangled in the +eyelashes, carefully clear it away with a bit of soft linen soaked in +vinegar-and-water. Violent inflammation is sure to follow; a smart purge +must be therefore administered, and in all probability a blister must be +applied on the temple, behind the ear, or nape of the neck. + + +2630. STYE IN THE EYE.--Styes are little abscesses which form between +the roots of the eyelashes, and are rarely larger than a small pea. The +best way to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, or +in warm poppy-water, if very painful. When they have burst, use an +ointment composed of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti, +well rubbed together, and smear along the edge of the eyelid. Give a +grain or two of calomel with 5 or 8 grains of rhubarb, according to the +age of the child, twice a week. The old-fashioned and apparently absurd +practice of rubbing the stye with a ring, is as good and speedy a cure +as that by any process of medicinal application; though the number of +times it is rubbed, or the quality of the ring and direction of the +strokes, has nothing to do with its success. The pressure and the +friction excite the vessels of the part, and cause an absorption of the +effused matter under the eyelash. The edge of the nail will answer as +well as a ring. + +2631. INFLAMMATION OF THE EYELIDS.--The following ointment has been +found very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of the +eyelids:--Take of prepared calomel, 1 scruple; spermaceti ointment, 1/2 +oz. Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a small quantity to +each corner of the eye every night and morning, and also to the edges of +the lids, if they are affected. If this should not eventually remove the +inflammation, elder-flower water may be applied three or four times a +day, by means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept in a laxative +state, by taking occasionally a quarter of an ounce of the Cheltenham or +Epsom salts. + +2632. FASTING.--It is said by many able physicians that fasting is a +means of removing incipient disease, and of restoring the body to its +customary healthy sensations. Howard, the celebrated philanthropist +(says a writer), used to fast one day in every week. Napoleon, when he +felt his system unstrung, suspended his wonted repast, and took his +exercise on horseback. + + +Fits. + +2633. Fits come on so suddenly, often without even the slightest +warning, and may prove fatal so quickly, that all people should be +acquainted at least with their leading symptoms and treatment, as a few +moments, more or less, will often decide the question between life and +death. The treatment, in very many cases at least, to be of the +slightest use, should be _immediate_, as a person in a fit (of apoplexy +for instance) may die while a surgeon is being fetched from only the +next street. We shall give, as far as the fact of our editing a work for +non-professional readers will permit, the peculiar and distinctive +symptoms of all kind of fits, and the immediate treatment to be adopted +in each case. + +2634. APOPLEXY.--These fits may be divided into two kinds--the _strong_ +and the _weak_. + +2635. 1. _The strong kind_.--These cases mostly occur in stout, strong, +short-necked, bloated-faced people, who are in the habit of living +well.--_Symptoms_. The patient may or may not have had headache, sparks +before his eyes, with confusion of ideas and giddiness, for a day or two +before the attack. When it takes place, he falls down insensible; the +body becomes paralyzed, generally more so on one side than the other; +the face and head are hot, and the blood-vessels about them swollen; the +pupils of the eyes are larger than natural, and the eyes themselves are +fixed; the mouth is mostly drawn down at one corner; the breathing is +like loud snoring; the pulse full and hard.--_Treatment_. Place the +patient immediately in bed, with his head well raised; take off +everything that he has round his neck, and bleed freely and at once from +the arm. If you have not got a lancet, use a penknife or anything +suitable that may be at hand. Apply warm mustard poultices to the soles +of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs; put two drops of +castor oil, mixed up with eight grains of calomel, on the top of the +tongue, as far back as possible; a most important part of the treatment +being to open the bowels as quickly and freely as possible. The patient +cannot swallow; but these medicines, especially the oil, will be +absorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntary +action. If possible, throw up a warm turpentine clyster (two +tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel), or, if +this cannot be obtained, one composed of about a quart of warm +salt-and-water and soap. Cut off the hair, and apply rags dipped in weak +vinegar-and-water, or weak gin-and-water, or even simple cold water, to +the head. If the blood-vessels about the head and neck are much swollen, +put from eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite to the paralyzed +side of the body. Always send for a surgeon immediately, and act +according to the above rules, doing more or less, according to the means +at hand, and the length of time that must necessarily elapse until he +arrives. A pint, or even a quart of blood in a very strong person, may +be taken away. When the patient is able to swallow, give him the No. 1 +pills, and the No. 1 mixture directly. [The No. 1 pills are made as +follows:--Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial +powder with a little bread-crumb: make into two pills, the dose for a +full-grown person. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve on ounce of Epsom +salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a +dose] Repeat these remedies if the bowels are not well opened. Keep the +patient's head well raised, and cool as above. Give very low diet +indeed: gruel, arrowroot, and the like. When a person is recovering, he +should have blisters applied to the nape of the neck, his bowels should +be kept well open, light diet given, and fatigue, worry, and excess of +all kinds avoided. + +2636. 2. _The weak kind_.--_Symptoms_. These attacks are more frequently +preceded by warning symptoms than the first kind. The face is pale, the +pulse weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, cold. After a +little while, these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first class +in a mild degree.--_Treatment._ At first, if the pulse is _very feeble +indeed_, a little brandy-and-water or sal-volatile must be given. +Mustard poultices are to be put, as before, to the soles of the foot and +the insides of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or bottles filled with +warm water, are also to be placed under the armpits. When the strength +has returned, the body become warmer, and the pulse fuller and harder, +the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it, as before +described. Leeches should be put, as before, to the temple opposite the +side paralyzed; and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quickly +as possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases, +but a non-professional person should never have recourse to it. Blisters +may be applied to the nape of the neck at once. The diet in those cases +should not be so low as in the former--indeed, it is often necessary, in +a day or so after one of these attacks, to give wine, strong beef-tea, +&c., according to the condition of the patient's strength. + +2637. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy_.--1. Apoplexy mostly +happens in people over _thirty_, whereas epilepsy generally occurs under +that ago; at any rate for the first time. A person who has epileptic +fits over thirty, has generally suffered from them for some years. 2. +Again, _in apoplexy_, the body is paralyzed; and, therefore, has not +_the convulsions which take place in epilepsy_. 3. The peculiar +_snoring_ will also distinguish apoplexy from epilepsy. + +2638. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkeness_.--1. The known +habits of the person. 2. The fact of a person who was perfectly sober +and sensible a little time before, being found in a state of +insensibility. 3. The absence, in apoplexy, of the _smell of drink_ on +applying the nose to the mouth. 4. A person in a fit of apoplexy cannot +be roused at all; in drunkenness he mostly can, to a certain extent. + +2639. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysteria_.--Hysterics mostly +happen in young, nervous, unmarried women; and are attended with +convulsions, sobbing, laughter, throwing about of the body, &c. &c. + +2640. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Poisoning by Opium_.--It is +exceedingly difficult to distinguish between these two cases. In +poisoning by opium, however, we find the particular smell of the drug in +the patient's breath. We should also, in forming our opinion, take into +consideration the person's previous conduct--whether he has been low and +desponding for some time before, or has ever talked about committing +suicide. + +2641. EPILEPSY.--_Falling Sickness_.--Those fits mostly happen, at any +rate for the first time, to young people, and are more common in boys +than girls. They are produced by numerous causes.--_Symptoms_. The fit +may be preceded by pains in the head, palpitations, &c. &c.; but it +mostly happens that the person falls down insensible suddenly, and +without any warning whatever. The eyes are distorted, so that only their +whites can be seen; there is mostly foaming from the mouth; the fingers +are clinched; and the body, especially on one side, is much agitated; +the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth. When the fit goes off, the +patient feels drowsy and faint, and often sleeps soundly for some +time.--_Treatment_. During the fit, keep the patient flat on his back, +with his head slightly raised, and prevent him from doing any harm to +himself; dash cold water into his face, and apply smelling-salts to his +nose; loosen his shirt collar, &c.; hold a piece of wood about as thick +as a finger--the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do as +well--between the two rows of teeth, at the back part of the mouth. This +will prevent the tongue from being injured. A teaspoonful of common salt +thrust into the patient's mouth, during the fit, is of much service. The +after-treatment of these fits is various, and depends entirely upon +their causes. A good general rule, however, is always to keep the bowels +well open, and the patient quiet, and free from fatigue, worry, and +excess of all kinds. + +2642. _Fainting Fits_ are sometimes very dangerous, and at others +perfectly harmless; the question of danger depending altogether upon the +causes which have produced them, and which are exceedingly various. For +instance, fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serious +symptom indeed; whereas, that arising from some slight cause, such as +the sight of blood, &c., need cause no alarm whatever. The symptoms of +simple fainting are so well known that it would be quite superfluous to +enumerate them here. The _treatment_ consists in laying the patient at +full length upon his back, with his head upon a level with the rest of +his body, loosening everything about the neck, dashing cold water into +the face, and sprinkling vinegar and water about the mouth; applying +smelling-salts to the nose; and, when the patient is able to swallow, in +giving a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of sal-volatile +in water. + +2643. _Hysterics_.--These fits take place, for the most part, in young, +nervous, unmarried women. They happen much less often in married women; +and even (in some rare cases indeed) in men. Young women, who are +subject to these fits, are apt to think that they are suffering from +"all the ills that flesh is heir to;" and the false symptoms of disease +which they show are so like the true ones, that it is often exceedingly +difficult to detect the difference. The fits themselves are mostly +preceded by great depression of spirits, shedding of tears, sickness, +palpitation of the heart, &c. A pain, as if a nail were being driven in, +is also often felt at one particular part of the head. In almost all +cases, when a fit is coming on, pain is felt on the left side. This pain +rises gradually until it reaches the throat, and then gives the patient +a sensation as if she had a pellet there, which prevents her from +breathing properly, and, in fact, seems to threaten actual suffocation. +The patient now generally becomes insensible, and faints; the body is +thrown about in all directions, froth issues from the mouth, incoherent +expressions are uttered, and fits of laughter, crying, or screaming, +take place. When the fit is going off, the patient mostly cries +bitterly, sometimes knowing all, and at others nothing, of what has +taken place, and feeling general soreness all over the body. _Treatment +during the fit_. Place the body in the same position as for simple +fainting, and treat, in other respects, as directed in the article on +Epilepsy. _Always well loosen the patient's stays_; and, when she is +recovering, and able to swallow, give 20 drops of sal volatile in a +little water. The _after-treatment_ of these cases is very various. If +the patient is of a strong constitution, she should live on plain diet, +take plenty of exercise, and take occasional doses of castor oil, or an +aperient mixture, such as that described as "No. 1," in previous +numbers. If, as is mostly the case, the patient is weak and delicate, +she will require a different mode of treatment altogether. Good +nourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No. +3 myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pills +twice a day. [As to the myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains made +into two pills are a dose for a full-grown person. Of the compound iron +pills (No. 4), the dose for a full grown person is also 10 grains, made +into two pills.] In every case, amusing the mind, and avoiding all +causes of over-excitement, are of great service in bringing about a +permanent cure. + +2644. LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS.--A very obliging correspondent +recommends the following, from personal experience:--Take 4 oz. of dried +dandelion root, 1 oz. of the best ginger, 1/4 oz. of Columba root; +braise and boil all together in 3 pints of water till it is reduced to a +quart: strain, and take a wine-glassful every four hours. Our +correspondent says it is a "safe and simple medicine for both liver +complaint and spasms." + +2645. LUMBAGO.--A "new and successful mode" of treating lumbago, +advocated by Dr. Day, is a form of counter-irritation, said to have been +introduced into this country by the late Sir Anthony Carlisle, and which +consists in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button, gently +heated in a spirit-lamp, to the skin. Dr. Corrigan published, about +three years ago, an account of some cases very successfully treated by +nearly similar means. Dr. Corrigan's plan was, however, to touch the +surface of the part affected, at intervals of half an inch, as lightly +and rapidly as possible. Dr. Day has found greater advantages to result +from drawing the flat surface of the heated button lightly over the +affected part, so as to act on a greater extent of surface. The doctor +speaks so enthusiastically of the benefit to be derived from this +practice, that it is evidently highly deserving attention. + +2646. PALPITATION OF THE HEART.--Where palpitation occurs as symptomatic +of indigestion, the treatment must be directed to remedy that disorder; +when it is consequent on a plethoric state, purgatives will be +effectual. In this case the patient should abstain from every kind of +diet likely to produce a plethoric condition of body. Animal food and +fermented liquor must be particularly avoided. Too much indulgence in +sleep will also prove injurious. When the attacks arise from nervous +irritability, the excitement must be allayed by change of air and a +tonic diet. Should the palpitation originate from organic derangement, +it must be, of course, beyond domestic management. Luxurious living, +indolence, and tight-lacing often produce this affection: such cases are +to be conquered with a little resolution. + + +2647. Poisons shall be the next subject for remark; and we anticipate +more detailed instructions for the treatment of persons poisoned, by +giving a simple LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL POISONS, with their ANTIDOTES OR +REMEDIES. + + Oil of Vitriol ...............\ + Aquafortis ................... Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water. + Spirit of Salt .............../ + + Emetic Tartar................. Oily Drinks, Solution of Oak-bark. + + Salt of Lemons, or............ Chalk, Whiting, Lime or Magnesia and + Acid of Sugar................. Water. Sometimes an Emetic + Draught. + + Pump on back, Smelling-Salts to nose, + Prussic Acid................... Artificial Breathing, + Chloride of Lime to nose. + + Pearlash ......................\ + Soap-Lees...................... \ + Smelling-Salts................. \ + Nitre.......................... Lemon-Juice and Vinegar-and-Water + Hartshorn...................... / + Sal-Volatile.................../ + + Arsenic........................\ + Fly-Powder, or................. Emetics, Lime-Water, Soap-and-Water, + White Arsenic.................. Sugar and Water, Oily Drinks. + Kings Yellow, or............... / + Yellow Arsenic................./ + + Mercury........................\ + Corrosive Sublimate............ Whites of Eggs, Soap-and-Water. + Calomel......................../ + + Opium.......................... Emetic Draught, Vinegar-and-Water, + Laudanum....................... dashing Cold Water on + chest and + face, walking up and down two or + three hours. + + Lead...........................\ + White Lead..................... Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics. + Sugar of Lead................../ + Goulard's Extract............./ + + Copper + Blue-stone .................... Whites of Eggs, Sugar-and-Water, + Verdigris...................... Castor Oil, Gruel. + + Zinc .......................... Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water, + Soap-and-Water. + + Iron .......................... Magnesia, Warm Water. + + Henbane........................\ + Hemlock........................ Emetics and Castor Oil; + Nightshade..................... Brandy-and-Water, if necessary. + Foxglove......................./ + + Poisonous Food................. Emetics and Castor Oil. + +2648. The symptoms of poisoning may be known for the most part from +those of some diseases, which they are very like, from the fact of their +coming on _immediately_ after eating or drinking something; whereas +those of disease come on, in most cases at least, by degrees, and with +warnings. In most cases where poison is known, or suspected, to have +been taken, the first thing to be done is to empty the stomach, well and +immediately, by means of mustard mixed in warm water, or plain warm +salt-and-water, or, better, this draught, which we call No. 1:--Twenty +grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. This draught +to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not ensue. The +back part of the throat should be well tickled with a feather, or two of +the fingers thrust down it, to induce vomiting. The cases where vomiting +must not be used are those where the skin has been taken off, and the +parts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken, and where the +action of vomiting would increase the evil. Full instructions are given +in the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or are +not to be given. The best and safest way of emptying the stomach is by +means of the stomach-pump, as in certain cases the action of vomiting is +likely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congested +condition of the blood-vessels of the head, which often takes place. In +the hands, however, of any one else than a surgeon, it would be not only +useless, but harmful, as a great deal of dexterity, caution, and +experience are required to use it properly. After having made these +brief introductory remarks, we shall now proceed to particulars. + +2649. _Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol_ (a clear, colourless liquid, +of an oily appearance).--_Symptoms in those who have swallowed it_. When +much is taken, these come on immediately. There is great burning pain, +extending from the mouth to the stomach; vomiting of a liquid of a dark +coffee-colour, often mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood; +the skin inside the mouth is taken off; and the exposed surface is at +first white, and after a time becomes brownish. There are sometimes +spots of a brown colour round the lips and on the neck, caused by drops +of the acid falling on these parts. There is great difficulty of +breathing, owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth. After a +time there is much depression of strength, with a quick, weak pulse, and +cold, clammy skin. The face is pale, and has a very anxious look. When +the acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water, the same kind of +symptoms occur, only in a milder degree.--_Treatment_. Give a mixture of +magnesia in milk-and-water, or, if this cannot be obtained, of finely +powdered chalk, or whiting, or even of the plaster torn down from the +walls or ceiling, in milk-and-water. The mixture should be nearly as +thick as cream, and plenty of it given. As well as this, simple gruel, +milk, or thick flour-and-water, are very useful, and should be given in +large quantities. Violent inflammation of the parts touched by the acid +is most likely to take place in the coarse of a little time, and can +only be properly attended to by a surgeon; but if one cannot be +obtained, leeches, the fever-mixtures (the recipe for which appears +repeatedly in previous paragraphs), thick drinks, such as barley-water, +gruel, arrowroot, &c., must be had recourse to, according to the +symptoms of each particular case and the means at hand. The inflamed +condition of the back part of the mouth requires particular attention. +When the breathing is very laboured and difficult in consequence, from +fifteen to twenty leeches are to be immediately applied to the outside +of the throat, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations +constantly kept to the part. When the pain over the stomach is very +great, the same local treatment is necessary; but if it is only slight, +a good mustard poultice will be sufficient without the leeches. In all +these cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture should be given +every four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten for +some days. + +2650. _Nitric Acid_, commonly known as _Aqua Fortis_, or _Red Spirit of +Nitre_ (a straw-coloured fluid, of the consistence of water, and which +gives off dense white fumes on exposure to the air).--_Symptoms produced +in those who have swallowed it._ Much the same as in the case of +sulphuric acid. In this case, however, the surface touched by the acid +becomes _yellowish_. The tongue is mostly much swollen.--_Treatment_. +The same as for sulphuric acid. + +2651. _Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt_ (a thin yellow fluid, emitting +dense white fumes on exposure to the air).--This is not often taken as a +poison. The _symptoms_ and _treatment_ are much the same as those of +_nitric acid_. + +N.B.--_In no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics ever +be given_. + +2652. _Oxalic Acid_, commonly called _Salt of Lemons_.--This poison may +be taken by mistake for Epsom salts, which it is a good deal like. It +may be distinguished from them by its very acid taste and its shape, +which is that of needle-formed crystals, each of which, if put into a +drop of ink, will turn it to a reddish brown, whereas Epsom salts will +not change its colour at all. When a large dose of this poison has been +taken, death takes place very quickly indeed.--_Symptoms produced in +those who have swallowed it_. A hot, burning, acid taste is felt in the +act of swallowing, and vomiting of a _greenish-brown_ fluid is produced, +sooner or later, according to the quantity and strength of the poison +taken. There is great tenderness felt over the stomach, followed by +clammy perspirations and convulsions; the legs are often drawn up, and +there is generally stupor, from which the patient, however, can easily +be roused, and always great prostration of strength. The pulse is small +and weak, and the breathing faint.--_Treatment_. Chalk or magnesia, made +into a cream with water, should be given in large quantities, and +afterwards the emetic draught above prescribed, or some +mustard-and-water, if the draught cannot be got. The back part of the +throat to be tickled with a feather, to induce vomiting. Arrowroot, +gruel, and the like drinks, are to be taken. When the prostration of +strength is very great and the body cold, warmth is to be applied to it, +and a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, given. + +2653. _Prussic Acid_ (a thin, transparent, and colourless liquid, with a +peculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds).--_Symptoms +produced in those who have swallowed it_. These come on _immediately_ +after the poison has been taken, and may be produced by merely _smelling_ +it. The patient becomes perfectly insensible, and falls down in +convulsions--his eyes are fixed and staring, the pupils being bigger +than natural, the skin is cold and clammy, the pulse scarcely perceptible, +and the breathing slow and gasping.--_Treatment_. Very little can be done +in these cases, as death takes place so quickly after the poison has +been swallowed, when it takes place at all. The best treatment--which +should always be adopted in all cases, even though the patient appears +quite dead-is to dash quantities of cold water on the back, from the top +of the neck downwards. Placing the patient under a pump, and pumping on +him, is the best way of doing this. Smelling-salts are also to be applied +to the nose, and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment. + +2654. ALKALIS: _Potash, Soda_, and _Ammonia_, or common +_Smelling-Salts_, with their principal preparations--_Pearlash, Soap +Lees, Liquor Potassae, Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn_, and +_Sal--Volatile._--Alkalis are seldom taken or given with the view of +destroying life. They may, however, be swallowed by mistake.--_Symptoms +produced in those who have swallowed them_. There is at first a burning, +acrid taste in, and a sensation of tightness round, the throat, like +that of strangling; the skin touched is destroyed; retching mostly +followed by actual vomiting, then sets in; the vomited matters often +containing blood of a dark brown colour, with little shreds of flesh +here and there, and always changing vegetable blue colours green. There +is now great tenderness over the whole of the belly. After a little +while, great weakness, with cold, clammy sweats, a quick weak pulse, and +purging of bloody matters, takes place. The brain, too, mostly becomes +affected.--_Treatment_. Give two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or +lemon-juice in a glassful of water every few minutes until the burning +sensation is relieved. Any kind of oil or milk may also be given, and +will form soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach. Barley-water, +gruel, arrowroot, linseed-tea, &c., are also very useful, and should be +taken constantly, and in large quantities. If inflammation should take +place, it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppy +fomentations to the part where the pain is most felt, and giving two +tablespoonfuls of the fever mixture every four hours. The diet in all +these cases should only consist of arrowroot or gruel for the first few +days, and then of weak broth or beef-tea for some time after. + +2655. When very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way been +inhaled, there is great difficulty of breathing, and alarming pain in +the mouth and nostrils. In this case let the patient inhale the steam of +warm vinegar, and treat the feverish symptoms as before. + +2656. _Arsenic_.--Mostly seen under the form of white arsenic, or +fly-powder, and yellow arsenic, or king's yellow.--_Symptoms produced in +those who have swallowed it_. These vary very much, according to the +form and dose in which the poison has been taken. There is faintness, +depression, and sickness, with an intense burning pain in the region of +the stomach, which gets worse and worse, and is increased by pressure. +There is also vomiting of dark brown matter, sometimes mixed with blood; +and mostly great thirst, with a feeling of tightness round, and of +burning in, the throat. Purging also takes place, the matters brought +away being mixed with blood. The pulse is small and irregular, and the +skin sometimes cold and clammy, and at others hot. The breathing is +painful. Convulsions and spasms often occur.--_Treatment_. Give a couple +of teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water, to bring on or assist +vomiting, and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for the +purpose. A solution, half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil, well +mixed, may be given, as well as plenty of arrowroot, gruel, or +linseed-tea. Simple milk is also useful. A little castor-oil should be +given, to cleanse the intestines of all the poison, and the +after-symptoms treated on general principles. + +2657. _Corrosive Sublimate_.--Mostly seen in the form of little heavy +crystalline masses, which melt in water, and have a metallic taste. It +is sometimes seen in powder. This is a most powerful poison.--_Symptoms_. +These mostly come on immediately after the poison has been taken. There +is a coppery taste experienced in the act of swallowing, with a burning +heat, extending from the top of the throat down to the stomach; and also +a feeling of great tightness round the throat. In a few minutes great +pain is felt over the region of the stomach, and frequent vomiting of +long, stringy white masses, mixed with blood, takes place. There is +also mostly great purging. The countenance is generally pale and +anxious; the pulse always small and frequent; the skin cold and clammy, +and the breathing difficult. Convulsions and insensibility often occur, +and are very bad symptoms indeed. The inside of the mouth is more or +less swollen.--_Treatment_. Mix the whites of a dozen eggs in two pints +of cold water, and give a glassful of the mixture every three or four +minutes, until the stomach can contain no more. If vomiting does not now +come on naturally, and supposing the mouth is not very sore or much +swollen, an emetic draught, No. 1, may be given, and vomiting induced. +(The No. 1 draught, we remind our readers, is thus made:--Twenty grains +of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water; the draught to be +repeated if vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour.) After +the stomach has been well cleaned out, milk, flour-and-water, linseed-tea, +or barley-water, should be taken in large quantities. If eggs cannot be +obtained, milk, or flour-and-water, should be given as a substitute for +them at once. When the depression of strength is very great indeed, a +little warm brandy-and-water must be given. In the course of an hour or +two the patient should take two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and if +inflammation comes on, it is to be treated as directed in the article on +acids and alkalis. The diet should also be the same. If the patient +recovers, great soreness of the gums is almost certain to take place. The +simplest, and at the same time one of the best modes of treatment, is to +wash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-water. + +2658. _Calomel_.--A heavy white powder, without taste, and insoluble in +water. It has been occasionally known to destroy life.--_Symptoms_. Much +the same as in the case of corrosive sublimate.--_Treatment_. The same +as for corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, wash them, as +recommended in the case of corrosive sublimate, with brandy-and-water +three or four times a day, and keep the patient on _fluids_, such as +arrowroot, gruel, broth, or beef-tea, according to the other symptoms. +Eating hard substances would make the gums more sore and tender. + +2659. _Copper_.--The preparations of this metal which are most likely to +be the ones producing poisonous symptoms, are _blue-stone_ and +_verdigris_. People are often taken ill after eating food that has been +cooked in copper saucepans. When anything has been cooked in one of +these vessels, _it should never be allowed to cool in it_.--_Symptoms_. +Headache, pain in the stomach, and purging; vomiting of green or blue +matters, convulsions, and spasms.--_Treatment_. Give whites of eggs, +sugar-and-water, castor-oil, and drinks, such as arrowroot and gruel. + +2660. _Emetic Tartar_.--Seen in the form of a white powder, or crystals, +with a slightly metallic taste. It has not often been known to destroy +life.--_Symptoms_. A strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing, +followed by a burning pain in the region of the stomach, vomiting, and +great purging. The pulse is small and rapid, the skin cold and clammy, +the breathing difficult and painful, and the limbs often much cramped. +There is also great prostration of strength.--_Treatment_. Promote the +vomiting by giving plenty of warm water, or warm arrowroot and water. +Strong tea, in large quantities, should be drunk; or, if it can be +obtained, a decoction of oak bark. The after-treatment is the same as +that for acids and alkalis; the principal object in all these cases +being to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the poison +by means of leeches, warm poppy fomentations, fever-mixtures, and very +low diet. + +2661. _Lead_, and its preparations, _Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract, +White Lead._--Lead is by no means an active poison, although it is +popularly considered to be so. It mostly affects people by being taken +into the system slowly, as in the case of painters and glaziers. A +newly-painted house, too, often affects those living in it.--_Symptoms +produced when taken in a large dose_. There is at first a burning, +pricking sensation in the throat, to which thirst, giddiness, and +vomiting follow. The belly is tight, swollen, and painful; _the pain +being relieved by pressure_. The bowels are mostly bound. There is great +depression of strength, and a cold skin.--Treatment. Give an emetic +draught (No. 1, see above) at once, and shortly afterwards a solution of +Epsom salts in large quantities. A little brandy-and-water must be taken +if the depression of strength is very great indeed. Milk, whites of +eggs, and arrowroot are also useful. After two or three hours, cleanse +the stomach and intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls of +castor-oil, and treat the symptoms which follow according to the rules +laid down in other parts of these articles.--_Symptoms when it is taken +into the body slowly_. Headache, pain about the navel, loss of appetite +and flesh, offensive breath, a blueness of the edges of the gums; the +belly is tight, hard, and knotty, and the pulse slow and languid. There +is also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing.--_Treatment_. Give five +grains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly, in the form of a +pill, and half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, and repeat this +treatment until the bowels are well opened. Put the patient into a warm +bath, and throw up a clyster of warmish water when he is in it. +Fomentations of warm oil of turpentine, if they can be obtained, should +be put over the whole of the belly. The great object is to open the +bowels as freely and as quickly as possible. When this has been done, a +grain of pure opium may be given. Arrowroot or gruel should be taken in +good large quantities. The after-treatment must depend altogether upon +the symptoms of each particular case. + +2662. _Opium_, and its preparations, _Laudanum, &c_.--Solid opium is +mostly seen in the form of rich brown flattish cakes, with little pieces +of leaves sticking on them here and there, and a bitter and slightly +warm taste. The most common form in which it is taken as a poison, is +that of laudanum.--_Symptoms_. These consist at first in giddiness and +stupor, followed by insensibility, the patient, however, being roused to +consciousness by a great noise, so as to be able to answer a question, +but becoming insensible again almost immediately. The pulse is now quick +and small, the breathing hurried, and the skin warm and covered with +perspiration. After a little time, these symptoms change; the person +becomes _perfectly insensible_, the breathing slow and _snoring_, as in +apoplexy, the skin cold, and the pulse slow and full. The pupil of the +eye is mostly smaller than natural. On applying his nose to the patient's +mouth, a person may smell the poison very distinctly.--_Treatment_. +Give an emetic draught (No. 1, see above) directly, with large quantities +of warm mustard-and-water, warm salt-and-water, or simple warm water. +Tickle the top of the throat with a feather, or put two fingers down it +to bring on vomiting, which rarely takes place of itself. Dash cold water +on the head, chest, and spine, and flap these parts well with the ends of +wet towels. Give strong coffee or tea. Walk the patient up and down in +the open air for two or three hours; the great thing being to keep him +from sleeping. Electricity is of much service. When the patient is +recovering, mustard poultices should be applied to the soles of the feet +and the insides of the thighs and legs. The head should be kept cool and +raised. + +2663. The following preparations, which are constantly given to children +by their nurses and mothers, for the purpose of making them sleep, often +prove fatal:--_Syrup of Poppies_, and _Godfrey's Cordial_. The author +would most earnestly urge all people caring for their children's lives, +never to allow any of these preparations to be given, unless ordered by +a surgeon. + +2664. The treatment in the case of poisoning by _Henbane_, _Hemlock_, +_Nightshade_, and _Foxglove_, is much the same as that for opium. +Vomiting should be brought on in all of them. + +2665. _Poisonous Food_.--It sometimes happens that things which are in +daily use, and mostly perfectly harmless, give rise, under certain +unknown circumstances, and in certain individuals, to the symptoms of +poisoning. The most common articles of food of this description are +_Mussels_, _Salmon_, and certain kinds of _Cheese_ and _Bacon_. The +general symptoms are thirst, weight about the stomach, difficulty of +breathing, vomiting, purging, spasms, prostration of strength, and, in +the case of mussels more particularly, an eruption on the body, like +that of nettle-rash.--_Treatment_. Empty the stomach well with No. 1 +draught and warm water, and give two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil +immediately after. Let the patient take plenty of arrowroot, gruel, and +the like drinks, and if there is much depression of strength, give a +little warm brandy-and-water. Should symptoms of fever or inflammation +follow, they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kinds +of poisoning. + +2666. _Mushrooms_, and similar kinds of vegetables, often produce +poisonous effects. The symptoms are various, sometimes giddiness and +stupor, and at others pain in and swelling of the belly, with vomiting +and purging, being the leading ones. When the symptoms come on quickly +after taking the poison, it is generally the head that is affected.--The +treatment consists in bringing on vomiting in the usual manner, as +quickly and as freely as possible. The other symptoms are to be treated +on general principles; if they are those of depression, by +brandy-and-water or sal-volatile; if those of inflammation, by leeches, +fomentations, fever-mixtures, &c. &c. + +2667. FOR CURE OF RINGWORM.--Take of subcarbonate of soda 1 drachm, +which dissolve in 1/2 pint of vinegar. Wash the head every morning with +soft soap, and apply the lotion night and morning. One teaspoonful of +sulphur and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning. +The hair should be cut close, and round the spot it should be shaved +off, and the part, night and morning, bathed with a lotion made by +dissolving a drachm of white vitriol in 8 oz. of water. A small piece of +either of the two subjoined ointments rubbed into the part when the +lotion has dried in. No, 1.--Take of citron ointment 1 drachm; sulphur +and tar ointment, of each 1/2 oz.: mix thoroughly, and apply twice a +day. No. 2.--Take of simple cerate 1 oz.; creosote 1 drachm; calomel 30 +grains: mix and use in the same manner as the first. Concurrent with +these external remedies, the child should take an alterative powder +every morning, or, if they act too much on the bowels, only every second +day. The following will be found to answer all the intentions desired. + +2668. Alterative Powders for Ringworm.--Take of + + Sulphuret of antimony, precipitated . 24 grains. + Grey powder . . . . . 12 grains. + Calomel . . . . . . 6 grains. + Jalap powder . . . . . 36 grains. + +Mix carefully, and divide into 12 powders for a child from 1 to 2 years +old; into 9 powders for a child from 2 to 4 years; and into 6 powders +for a child from 4 to 6 years. Where the patient is older, the strength +may be increased by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered, or by +giving one and a half or two powders for one dose. The ointment is to be +well washed off every morning with soap-and-water, and the part bathed +with the lotion before re-applying the ointment. An imperative fact must +be remembered by mother or nurse,--never to use the same comb employed +for the child with ringworm, for the healthy children, or let the +affected little one sleep with those free from the disease; and, for +fear of any contact by hands or otherwise, to keep the child's head +enveloped in a nightcap, till this eruption is completely cured. + +2669. SCRATCHES.--Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never to +be neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean and +dry until they have completely healed. If there is the least appearance +of inflammation, no time should be lost in applying a large +bread-and-water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly applied, or even +leeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other. + +2670. FOR SHORTNESS OF BREATH, OR DIFFICULT BREATHING.--Vitriolated +spirits of ether 1 oz., camphor 12 grains: make a solution, of which +take a teaspoonful during the paroxysm. This is found to afford +instantaneous relief in difficulty of breathing, depending on internal +diseases and other causes, where the patient, from a very quick and +laborious breathing, is obliged to be in an erect posture. + +2671. SPRAINS.--A sprain is a stretching of the leaders or ligaments of +a part through some violence, such as slipping, falling on the hands, +pulling a limb, &c. &c. The most common are those of the ankle and +wrist. These accidents are more serious than people generally suppose, +and often more difficult to cure than a broken log or arm. The first +thing to be done is to place the sprained part in the straight position, +and to raise it a little as well. Some recommend the application of cold +lotions at first. The editress, however, is quite convinced that warm +applications are, in most cases, the best for for the first three or +four days. These fomentations are to be applied in the following +manner:--Dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full of +hot water or hot poppy fomentation,--six poppy heads boiled in one quart +of water for about a quarter of an hour; wring it almost dry, and apply +it, as hot as the patient can bear, right round the sprained part. Then +place another piece of flannel, quite dry, over it, in order that the +steam and warmth may not escape. This process should be repeated as +often as the patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is getting +cold--the oftener the better. The bowels should be opened with a black +draught, and the patient kept on low diet. If he has been a great +drinker, he may be allowed to take a little beer; but it is better not +to do so. A little of the cream of tartar drink, ordered in the case of +burns, may be taken occasionally if there is much thirst. When the +swelling and tenderness about the joint are very great, from eight to +twelve leeches may be applied. When the knee is the joint affected, the +greatest pain is felt at the inside, and therefore the greater quantity +of the leeches should be applied to that part. When the shoulder is +sprained, the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linen +roller, which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of the +chest. It should also be brought two or three times underneath the +elbow, in order to raise the shoulder. This is the best treatment for +these accidents during the first three or four days. After that time, +supposing that no unfavourable symptoms have taken place, a cold lotion, +composed of a tablespoonful of sal-ammoniac to a quart of water, or +vinegar-and-water, should be constantly applied. This lotion will +strengthen the part, and also help in taking away any thickening that +may have formed about the joint. In the course of two or three weeks, +according to circumstances, the joint is to be rubbed twice a day with +flannel dipped in opodeldoc, a flannel bandage rolled tightly round the +joint, the pressure being greatest at the lowest part, and the patient +allowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick. He +should also occasionally, when sitting or lying down, quietly bend the +joint backwards and forwards, to cause its natural motion to return, and +to prevent stiffness from taking place. When the swelling is very great +immediately after the accident has occurred, from the breaking of the +blood-vessels, it is best to apply cold applications at first. If it can +be procured, oil-silk may be put over the warm-fomentation flannel, +instead of the dry piece of flannel. Old flannel is better than new. + +2672. CURE FOR STAMMERING.--Where there is no malformation of the organs +of articulation, stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with the +teeth closed. This should be practised for two hours a day, for three or +four months. The advocate of this simple remedy says, "I can speak with +certainty of its utility." + +2673. STAMMERING.--At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of Natural +History, Dr. Warren stated, "A simple, easy, and effectual cure of +stammering." It is, simply, at every syllable pronounced, to tap at the +same time with the finger; by so doing, "the most inveterate stammerer +will be surprised to find that he can pronounce quite fluently, and, by +long and constant practice, he will pronounce perfectly well." + +2674. SUFFOCATION, APPARENT.--Suffocation may arise from many different +causes. Anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs will +produce it. We shall give the principal causes, and the treatment to be +followed in each case. + +2675. 1. _Carbonic Acid Gas. Choke-Damp of Mines_.--This poisonous gas +is met with in rooms where charcoal is burnt, and where there is not +sufficient draught to allow it to escape; in coalpits, near limekilns, +in breweries, and in rooms and houses where a great many people live +huddled together in wretchedness and filth, and where the air in +consequence becomes poisoned. This gas gives out no smell, so that we +cannot know of its presence. A candle will not burn in a room which +contains much of it.--_Effects_. At first there is giddiness, and a +great wish to sleep; after a little time, or where there is much of it +present, a person feels great weight in the head, and stupid; gets by +degrees quite unable to move, and snores as if in a deep sleep. The +limbs may or may not be stiff. The heat of the body remains much the +same at first.--_Treatment_. Remove the person affected into the open +air, and, even though it is cold weather, take off his clothes. Then lay +him on his back, with his head slightly raised. Having done this, dash +vinegar-and-water over the whole of the body, and rub it hard, +especially the face and chest, with towels dipped in the same mixture. +The hands and feet also should be rubbed with a hard brush. Apply +smelling-salts to the nose, which may be tickled with a feather. Dashing +cold water down the middle of the back is of great service. If the +person can swallow, give him a little lemon-water, or vinegar-and-water +to drink. The principal means, however, to be employed in this, as, in +fact, in most cases of apparent suffocation, is what is called +_artificial breathing_. This operation should be performed by three +persons, and in the following manner:--The first person should put the +nozzle of a common pair of bellows into one of the patient's nostrils; +the second should push down, and then thrust back, that part of the +throat called "Adam's apple;" and the third should first raise and then +depress the chest, one hand being placed over each side of the ribs. +These three actions should be performed in the following order:--First +of all, the throat should be drawn down and thrust back; then the chest +should be raised, and the bellows gently blown into the nostril. +Directly this is done, the chest should be depressed, so as to imitate +common breathing. This process should be repeated about eighteen times a +minute. The mouth and the other nostril should be closed while the +bellows are being blown. Persevere, if necessary, with this treatment +for seven or eight hours--in fact, till absolute signs of death are +visible. Many lives are lost by giving it up too quickly. When the +patient becomes roused, he is to be put into a warm bed, and a little +brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, given cautiously now +and then. This treatment is to be adopted in all cases where people are +affected from breathing bad air, smells, &c. &c. + +2676. 2. _Drowning_.--This is one of the most frequent causes of death +by suffocation.--Treatment. Many methods have been adopted, and as some +of them are not only useless, but hurtful, we will mention them here, +merely in order that they may be avoided. In the first place, then, +never hang a person up by his heels, as it is an error to suppose that +water gets into the lungs. Hanging a person up by his heels would be +quite as bad as hanging him up by his neck. It is also a mistake to +suppose that rubbing the body with salt and water is of +service.--_Proper Treatment_. Directly a person has been taken out of +the water, he should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets; but if these +cannot be obtained, the clothes of the bystanders must be used for the +purpose. His head being slightly raised, and any water, weeds, or froth +that may happen to be in his mouth, having been removed, he should be +carried as quickly as possible to the nearest house. He should now be +put into a warm bath, about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear, and +kept there for about ten minutes, artificial breathing being had +recourse to while he is in it. Having been taken out of the bath, he +should be placed flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, upon a +warm bed in a warm room, wiped perfectly dry, and then rubbed constantly +all over the body with warm flannels. At the same time, mustard +poultices should be put to the soles of the feet, the palms of the +hands, and the inner surface of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or +bottles filled with warm water, should be placed under the armpits. The +nose should be tickled with a feather, and smelling-salts applied to it. +This treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready, as +well as when the body has been taken out of it. The bath is not +absolutely necessary; constantly rubbing the body with flannels in a +warm room having been found sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodie +says that warm air is quite as good as warm water. When symptoms of +returning consciousness begin to show themselves, give a little wine, +brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile and water. In some cases it is +necessary, in about twelve or twenty-four hours after the patient has +revived, to bleed him, for peculiar head-symptoms which now and then +occur. Bleeding, however, even in the hands of professional men +themselves, should be very cautiously used--non-professional ones should +never think of it. The best thing to do in these cases is to keep the +head well raised, and cool with a lotion such as that recommended above +for sprains; to administer an aperient draught, and to abstain from +giving anything that stimulates, such as wine, brandy, sal-volatile, &c. +&c. As a general rule, a person dies in three minutes and a half after +he has been under water. It is difficult, however, to tell how long he +has actually been _under_ it, although we may know well exactly how long +he has been _in_ it. This being the case, always persevere in your +attempts at resuscitation until actual signs of death have shown +themselves, even for six, eight, or ten hours. Dr. Douglas, of Glasgow, +resuscitated a person who had been under water for fourteen minutes, by +simply rubbing the whole of his body with warm flannels, in a warm room, +for eight hours and a half, at the end of which time the person began to +show the _first_ symptoms of returning animation. Should the accident +occur at a great distance from any house, this treatment should be +adopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of. Breathing +through any tube, such as a piece of card or paper rolled into the form +of a pipe, will do as a substitute for the bellows. To recapitulate: Rub +the body dry; take matters out of mouth; cover with blankets or clothes; +slightly raise the head, and place the body in a warm bath, or on a bed +in a warm room; apply smelling-salts to nose; employ artificial +breathing; rub well with warm flannels; put mustard poultices to feet, +hands, and insides of thighs and legs, with warm bricks or bottles to +armpits. _Don't bleed_. Give wine, brandy, or sal-volatile when +recovering, and _persevere till actual signs of death are seen._ + +2677. Briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation, let us +treat of _Lightning_. When a person has been struck by lightning, there +is a general paleness of the whole body, with the exception of the part +struck, which is often blackened, or even scorched.--_Treatment_. Same +as for drowning. It is not, however, of much use; for when death takes +place at all, it is generally instantaneous. + +2678. CURE FOR THE TOOTHACHE.--Take a piece of sheet zinc, about the +size of a sixpence, and a piece of silver, say a shilling; place them +together, and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous to +them; in a few minutes the pain will be gone, as if by magic. The zinc +and silver, acting as a galvanic battery, will produce on the nerves of +the tooth sufficient electricity to establish a current, and +consequently to relieve the pain. Or smoke a pipe of tobacco and +caraway-seeds. Again-- + +2679. A small piece of the pellitory root will, by the flow of saliva it +causes, afford relief. Creosote, or a few drops of tincture of myrrh, or +friar's balsam, on cotton, put on the tooth, will often subdue the pain. +A small piece of camphor, however, retained in the mouth, is the most +reliable and likely means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreaded +enemy. + +2680. WARTS.--Eisenberg says, in his "Advice on the Hand," that the +hydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts; the +process, however, is very slow, and demands perseverance, for, if +discontinued before the proper time, no advantage is gained. The +following is a simple cure:--On breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plant +in two, a drop of milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper part +of the stem; if this be allowed to drop on a wart, so that it be well +saturated with the juice, in about three or four dressings the warts +will die, and may be taken off with the fingers. They may be removed by +the above means from the teats of cows, where they are sometimes very +troublesome, and prevent them standing quiet to be milked. The wart +touched lightly every second day with lunar caustic, or rubbed every +night with blue-stone, for a few weeks, will destroy the largest wart, +wherever situated. + +2681. To CURE A WHITLOW.--As soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly, a +pretty large piece should be snipped out, so that the watery matter may +readily escape, and continue to flow out as fast as produced. A +bread-and-water poultice should be put on for a few days, when the wound +should be bound up lightly with some mild ointment, when a cure will be +speedily completed. Constant poulticing both before and after the +opening of the whitlow, is the only practice needed; but as the matter +lies deep, when it is necessary to open the abscess, the incision must +be made _deep_ to reach the suppuration. + +2682. WOUNDS.--There are several kinds of wounds, which are called by +different names, according to their appearance, or the manner in which +they are produced. As, however, it would be useless, and even hurtful, +to bother the reader's head with too many nice professional +distinctions, we shall content ourselves with dividing wounds into three +classes. + +2683. 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_--those produced by a knife, or some +sharp instrument. + +2684. 2. _Lacerated, or torn wounds_--those produced by the claws of an +animal, the bite of a dog, running quickly against some projecting blunt +object, such as a nail, &c. + +2685. 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_--those produced by anything +running deeply into the flesh; such as a sword, a sharp nail, a spike, +the point of a bayonet, &c. + +2686. Class 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_.--The danger arising from these +accidents is owing more to their position than to their extent. Thus, a +cut of half an inch long, which goes through an artery, is more serious +than a cut of two inches long, which is not near one. Again, a small cut +on the head is more often followed by dangerous symptoms than a much +larger one on the legs.--_Treatment_. If the cut is not a very large +one, and no artery or vein is wounded, this is very simple. If there are +any foreign substances left in the wound, they must be taken out, and +the bleeding must be quite stopped before the wound is strapped up. If +the bleeding is not very great, it may easily be stopped by raising the +cut part, and applying rags dipped in cold water to it. All clots of +blood must be carefully removed; for, if they are left behind, they +prevent the wound from healing. When the bleeding has been stopped, and +the wound perfectly cleaned, its two edges are to be brought closely +together by thin straps of common adhesive plaster, which should remain +on, if there is not great pain or heat about the part, for two or three +days, without being removed. The cut part should be kept raised and +cool. When the strips of plaster are to be taken off, they should first +be well bathed with lukewarm water. This will cause them to come away +easily, and without opening the lips of the wound; which accident is +very likely to take place, if they are pulled off without having been +first moistened with the warm water. If the wound is not healed when the +strips of plaster are taken off, fresh ones must be applied. Great care +is required in treating cuts of the head, as they are often followed by +erysipelas taking place round them. They should be strapped with +isinglass plaster, which is much less irritating than the ordinary +adhesive plaster. Only use as many strips as are actually requisite to +keep the two edges of the wound together; keep the patient quite quiet, +on low diet, for a week or so, according to his symptoms. Purge him well +with the No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with the same +quantity of compound extract of colocynth; make into two pills, the dose +for an adult). If the patient is feverish, give him two tablespoonfuls +of the fever-mixture three times a day. (The fever-mixture, we remind +our readers, is thus made: Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of +carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a +tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water.) A +person should be very careful of himself for a month or two after having +had a bad cut on the head. His bowels should be kept constantly open, +and all excitement and excess avoided. When a vein or artery is wounded, +the danger is, of course, much greater. Those accidents, therefore, +should always be attended to by a surgeon, if he can possibly be +procured. Before he arrives, however, or in case his assistance cannot +be obtained at all, the following treatment should be adopted:--Raise +the cut part, and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it. +This will often be sufficient to stop the bleeding, if the divided +artery or vein is not dangerous. When an artery is divided, the blood is +of a bright red colour, and comes away in jets. In this case, and +supposing the leg or arm to be the cut part, a handkerchief is to be +tied tightly round the limb _above_ the cut; and, if possible, the two +bleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece of silk. If +the bleeding is from a vein, the blood is much darker, and does not come +away in jets. In this case, the handkerchief is to be tied _below_ the +cut, and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided ends +of the vein. Let every bad cut, especially where there is much bleeding, +and even although it may to all appearance have been stopped, be +attended to by a surgeon, if one can by any means be obtained. + +2687. Class 2. _Lacerated or torn wounds_.--There is not so much +bleeding in these cases as in clean cuts, because the blood-vessels are +torn across in a zigzag manner, and not divided straight across. In +other respects, however, they are more serious than ordinary cuts, being +often followed by inflammation, mortification, fever, and in some cases +by locked-jaw. Foreign substances are also more likely to remain in +them.--_Treatment_. Stop the bleeding, if there is any, in the manner +directed for cuts; remove all substances that may be in the wound; keep +the patient quite quiet, and on low diet--gruel, arrowroot, and the +like; purge with the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture. (The No. 1 pill: +Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder, with +a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills, which is the dose for an +adult. The No. 1 mixture: Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a +pint of senna tea. A quarter of the mixture is a dose.) If there are +feverish symptoms, give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture (see above) +every four hours. If possible, bring the two edges of the wound +together, _but do not strain the parts to do this_. If they cannot be +brought together, on account of a piece of flesh being taken clean out, +or the raggedness of their edges, put lint dipped in cold water over the +wound, and cover it with oiled silk. It will then fill up from the +bottom. If the wound, after being well washed, should still contain any +sand, or grit of any kind, or if it should get red and hot from +inflammation, a large warm bread poultice will be the best thing to +apply until it becomes quite clean, or the inflammation goes down. When +the wound is a very large one, the application of warm poppy +fomentations is better than that of the lint dipped in cold water. If +the redness and pain about the part, and the general feverish symptoms, +are great, from eight to twelve leeches are to be applied round the +wound, and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice applied after +they drop off. + +2688. Class 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_.--These, for many +reasons, are the most serious of all kinds of wounds.--_Treatment_. The +same as that for lacerated wounds. Pus (matter) often forms at the +bottom of these wounds, which should, therefore, be kept open at the +top, by separating their edges every morning with a bodkin, and applying +a warm bread poultice immediately afterwards. They will then, in all +probability, heal up from the bottom, and any matter which may form will +find its own way out into the poultice. Sometimes, however, in spite of +all precautions, collections of matter (abscesses) will form at the +bottom or sides of the wound. Those are to be opened with a lancet, and +the matter thus let out. When matter is forming, the patient has cold +shiverings, throbbing pain in the part, and flushes on the face, which +come and go. A swelling of the part is also often seen. The matter in +the abscesses may be felt to move backwards and forwards, when pressure +is made from one side of the swelling to the other with the first and +second fingers (the middle and that next the thumb) of each hand. + +MEDICAL MEMORANDA. + +2689. ADVANTAGES OF CLEANLINESS.--Health and strength cannot be long +continued unless the skin--_all_ the skin--is washed frequently with a +sponge or other means. Every morning is best; after which the skin +should be rubbed very well with a rough cloth. This is the most certain +way of preventing cold, and a little substitute for exercise, as it +brings blood to the surface, and causes it to circulate well through the +fine capillary vessels. Labour produces this circulation naturally. The +insensible perspiration cannot escape well if the skin is not clean, as +the pores get choked up. It is said that in health about half the +aliment we take passes out through the skin. + +2690. THE TOMATO MEDICINAL.--To many persons there is something +unpleasant, not to say offensive, in the flavour of this excellent +fruit. It has, however, long been used for culinary purposes in various +countries of Europe. Dr. Bennett, a professor of some celebrity, +considers it an invaluable article of diet, and ascribes to it very +important medicinal properties. He declares:--1. That the tomato is one +of the most powerful deobstruents of the _materia medica_; and that, in +all those affections of the liver and other organs where calomel is +indicated, it is probably the most effective and least harmful remedial +agent known in the profession. 2. That a chemical extract can be +obtained from it, which will altogether supersede the use of calomel in +the cure of diseases. 3. That he has successfully treated diarrhoea with +this article alone. 4. That when used as an article of diet, it is +almost a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion. + +2691. WARM WATER.--Warm water is preferable to cold water, as a drink, +to persons who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints, and it +may be taken more freely than cold water, and consequently answers +better as a diluent for carrying off bile, and removing obstructions in +the urinary secretion, in cases of stone and gravel. When water of a +temperature equal to that of the human body is used for drink, it proves +considerably stimulant, and is particularly suited to dyspeptic, +bilious, gouty, and chlorotic subjects. + +2692. CAUTIONS IN VISITING SICK-ROOMS.--Never venture into a sick-room +if you are in a violent perspiration (if circumstances require your +continuance there), for the moment your body becomes cold, it is in a +state likely to absorb the infection, and give you the disease. Nor +visit a sick person (especially if the complaint be of a contagious +nature) with _an empty stomach_; as this disposes the system more +readily to receive the contagion. In attending a sick person, place +yourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed of the +diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in the +room, as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in that +direction, and you would run much danger from breathing it. + +2693. NECESSITY OF GOOD VENTILATION IN ROOMS LIGHTED WITH GAS.--In +dwelling-houses lighted by gas, the frequent renewal of the air is of +great importance. A single gas-burner will consume more oxygen, and +produce more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room, than +six or eight candles. If, therefore, when several burners are used, no +provision is made for the escape of the corrupted air and for the +introduction of pure air from without, the health will necessarily +suffer. + + + + +LEGAL MEMORANDA. + + +CHAPTER XLIV. + + +2694. Humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can be +performed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of the +law by which our rights are so carefully guarded; and those learned in +the law, when they do give advice without the usual fee, and in the +confidence of friendship, generally say, "Pay, pay anything rather than +go to law;" while those having experience in the courts of Themis have a +wholesome dread of its pitfalls. There are a few exceptions, however, to +this fear of the law's uncertainties; and we hear of those to whom a +lawsuit is on agreeable relaxation, a gentle excitement. One of this +class, when remonstrated with, retorted, that while one friend kept +dogs, and another horses, he, as he had a right to do, kept a lawyer; +and no one had a right to dispute his taste. We cannot pretend, in these +few pages, to lay down even the principles of law, not to speak of its +contrary exposition in different courts; but there are a few acts of +legal import which all men--and women too--must perform; and to these +acts we may be useful in giving a right direction. There is a house to +be leased or purchased, servants to be engaged, a will to be made, or +property settled, in all families; and much of the welfare of its +members depends on these things being done in proper legal form. + +2695. PURCHASING A HOUSE.--Few men will venture to purchase a freehold, +or even a leasehold property, by private contract, without making +themselves acquainted with the locality, and employing a solicitor to +examine the titles,; but many do walk into an auction-room, and bid for +a property upon the representations of the auctioneer. The conditions, +whatever they are, will bind him; for by one of the legal fictions of +which we have still so many, the auctioneer, who is in reality the agent +for the vendor, becomes also the agent for the buyer, and by putting +down the names of bidders and the biddings, he binds him to whom the lot +is knocked down to the sale and the conditions,--the falling of the +auctioneer's hammer is the acceptance of the offer, which completes the +agreement to purchase. In any such transaction you can only look at the +written or printed particulars; any verbal statement of the auctioneer, +made at the time of the sale, cannot contradict them, and they are +implemented by the agreement, which the auctioneer calls on the +purchaser to sign after the sale. You should sign no such contract +without having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer, and delivered +to you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that no trustee or assignee +can purchase property for himself included in the trust, even at +auction; nor is it safe to pay the purchase money to an agent of the +vendor, unless he give a written authority to the agent to receive it, +besides handing over the requisite deeds and receipts. + +2696. The laws of purchase and sale of property are so complicated that +Lord St. Leonards devotes five chapters of his book on Property Law to +the subject. The only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase, +which has been reduced to a written contract, is proof of fraudulent +representation as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant, or +a defect in title; but every circumstance which the purchaser might have +learned by careful investigation, the law presumes that he did know. +Thus, in buying a leasehold estate or house, all the covenants of the +original lease are presumed to be known. "It is not unusual," says Lord +St. Leonards, "to stipulate, in conditions of sale of leasehold +property, that the production of a receipt for the last year's rent +shall be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants were +performed up to that period. Never bid for one clogged with such a +condition. There are some acts against which no relief can be obtained; +for example, the tenant's right to insure, or his insuring in an office +or in names not authorized in the lease. And you should not rely upon +the mere fact of the insurance being correct at the time of sale: there +may have been a prior breach of covenant, and the landlord may not have +waived his right of entry for the forfeiture." And where any doubt of +this kind exists, the landlord should be appealed to. + +2697. Interest on a purchase is due from the day fixed upon for +completing: where it cannot be completed, the loss rests with the party +with whom the delay rests; but it appears, when the delay rests with the +seller, and the money is lying idle, notice of that is to be given to +the seller to make him liable to the loss of interest. In law, the +property belongs to the purchaser from the date of the contract; he is +entitled to any benefit, and must bear any loss; the seller may suffer +the insurance to drop without giving notice; and should a fire take +place, the loss falls on the buyer. In agreeing to buy a house, +therefore, provide at the same time for its insurance. Common fixtures +pass with the house, where nothing is said about them. + +2698. There are some well-recognized laws, of what may be called +good-neighbourhood, which affect all properties. If you purchase a field +or house, the seller retaining another field between yours and the +highway, he must of necessity grant you a right of way. Where the owner +of more than one house sells one of them, the purchaser is entitled to +benefit by all drains leading from his house into other drains, and will +be subject to all necessary drains for the adjoining houses, although +there is no express reservation as to drains. + +Thus, if his happens to be a leading drain, other necessary drains may +be opened into it. In purchasing land for building on, you should +expressly reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer or +watercourse on the vendor's land for drainage purposes. + +2699. CONSTRUCTIONS.--Among the cautions which purchasers of houses, +land, or leaseholds, should keep in view, is a not inconsiderable array +of _constructive_ notices, which are equally binding with actual ones. +Notice to your attorney or agent is notice to you; and when the same +attorney is employed by both parties, and he is aware of an encumbrance +of which you are ignorant, you are bound by it; even where the vendor is +guilty of a fraud to which your agent is privy, you are responsible, and +cannot be released from the consequences. + +2700. THE RELATIONS OF LANDLORD AND TENANT are most important to both +parties, and each should clearly understand his position. The proprietor +of a house, or house and land, agrees to let it either to a +tenant-at-will, a yearly tenancy, or under lease. A tenancy-at-will may +be created by parol or by agreement; and as the tenant may be turned out +when his landlord pleases, so he may leave when he himself thinks +proper; but this kind of tenancy is extremely inconvenient to both +parties. Where an annual rent is attached to the tenancy, in +construction of law, a lease or agreement without limitation to any +certain period is a lease from year to year, and both landlord and +tenant are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined by +the other. This notice must be given at least six months before the +expiration of the current year of the tenancy, and it can only terminate +at the end of any whole year from the time at which it began; so that +the tenant entering into possession at Midsummer, the notice must be +given to or by him, so as to terminate at the same term. When once he is +in possession, he has a right to remain for a whole year; and if no +notice be given at the end of the first half-year of his tenancy, he +will have to remain two years, and so on for any number of years. + +2701. TENANCY BY SUFFERANCE.--This is a tenancy, not very uncommon, +arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiative +in a more decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement. The +tenant remains in possession, and continues to pay rent as before, and +becomes, from sufferance, a tenant from year to year, which can only be +terminated by one party or the other giving the necessary six months' +notice to quit at the term corresponding with the commencement of the +original tenancy. This tenancy at sufferance applies also to an +under-tenant, who remains in possession and pays rent to the reversioner +or head landlord. A six months' notice will be insufficient for this +tenancy. A notice was given (in Right v. Darby, I.T.R. 159) to quit a +house held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year, on the 17th June, +1840, requiring him "to quit the premises on the 11th October following, +or such other day as his said tenancy might expire." The tenancy had +commenced on the 11th October in a former year, but it was held that +this was not a good notice for the year ending October 11, 1841. A +tenant from year to year gave his landlord notice to quit, ending the +tenancy at a time within the half-year; the landlord acquiesced at +first, but afterwards refused to accept the notice. The tenant quitted +the premises; the landlord entered, and even made some repairs, but it +was afterwards held that the tenancy was not determined. A notice to +quit must be such as the tenant may safely act on at the time of +receiving it; therefore it can only be given by an agent properly +authorized at the time, and cannot be made good by the landlord adopting +it afterwards. An unqualified notice, given at the proper time, should +conclude with "On failure whereof, I shall require you to pay me double +the former rent for so long as you retain possession." + +2702. LEASES.--A lease is an instrument in writing, by which one person +grants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for a +term of years for a consideration, the lessor granting the lease, and +the lessee accepting it with all its conditions. A lessor may grant the +lease for any term less than his own interest. A tenant for life in an +estate can only grant a lease for his own life. A tenant for life, +having power to grant a lease, should grant it only in the terms of the +power, otherwise the lease is void, and his estate may be made to pay +heavy penalties under the covenant, usually the only one onerous on the +lessor, for quiet enjoyment. The proprietor of a freehold--that is, of +the possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements--may grant a lease +for 999 years, for 99 years, or for 3 years. In the latter case, the +lease may be either verbal or in writing, no particular form and no +stamps being necessary, except the usual stamp on agreements; so long as +the intention of the parties is clearly expressed, and the covenants +definite, and well understood by each party, the agreement is complete, +and the law satisfied. In the case of settled estates, the court of +Chancery is empowered to authorize leases under the 19 & 20 Vict. c. +120, and 21 & 22 Vict. c. 77, as follows:-- + + 21 years for agriculture or occupation. + 40 years for water-power. + 99 years for building-leases. + 60 years for repairing-leases. + +2703. A lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than his +own: to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment. Leases are +frequently burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consent +of the landlord: this is a covenant sometimes very onerous, and to be +avoided, where it is possible, by a prudent lessee. + +2704. A lease for any term beyond three years, whether an actual lease +or an agreement for one, must be in the form of a deed; that is, it must +be "under seal;" and all assignments and surrenders of leases must be in +the same form, or they are _void at law_. Thus an agreement made by +letter, or by a memorandum of agreement, which would be binding in most +cases, would be valueless when it was for a lease, unless witnessed, and +given under hand and seal. The last statute, 8 & 9 Vict. c. 106, under +which these precautions became necessary, has led to serious +difficulties. "The judges," says Lord St. Leonards, "feel the difficulty +of holding a lease in writing, but not by deed, to be altogether void, +and consequently decided, that although such a lease is void under the +statute, yet it so far regulates the holding, that it creates a tenancy +from year to year, terminable by half a year's notice; and if the tenure +endure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease, the +tenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice to +quit." An agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be a +lease for a term of years, and consequently void under the statute; "and +yet," says Lord St. Leonards, "a court of equity has held that it may be +specifically enforced as an agreement upon the terms stated." The law on +this point is one of glorious uncertainty; in making any such agreement, +therefore, we should be careful to express that it is an agreement, and +not a lease; and that it is witnessed and under seal. + +2705. AGREEMENTS.--It is usual, where the lease is a repairing one, to +agree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according to +specification. This agreement should contain the names and designation +of the parties, a description of the property, and the term of the +intended lease, and all the covenants which are to be inserted, as no +verbal agreement can be made to a written agreement. It should also +declare that the instrument is an agreement for a lease, and not the +lease itself. The points to be settled in such an agreement are, the +rent, term, and especially covenants for insuring and rebuilding in the +event of a fire; and if it is intended that the lessor's consent is to +be obtained before assigning or underleasing, a covenant to that effect +is required in the agreement. In building-leases, usually granted for 99 +years, the tenant is to insure the property; and even where the +agreement is silent on that point, the law decides it so. It is +otherwise with ordinary tenements, when the tenant pays a full, or what +the law terms rack-rent; the landlord is then to insure, unless it is +otherwise arranged by the agreement. + +2706. It is important for lessee, and lessor, also, that the latter does +not exceed his powers. A lease granted by a tenant for life before he is +properly in possession, is void in law; for, although a court of equity, +according to Lord St. Leonards, will, "by force of its own jurisdiction, +support a _bona fide_ lease, granted under a power which is merely +erroneous in form or ceremonies," and the 12 & 13 Vict. c. 26, and 13 & +14 Vict. c. 19, compel a new lease to be granted with the necessary +variations, while the lessor has no power to compel him to accept such a +lease, except when the person in remainder is competent and willing to +confirm the original lease without variations, yet all these +difficulties involve both delay, costs, and anxieties. + +2707. In husbandry leases, a covenant to cultivate the land in a +husbandlike manner, and according to the custom of the district, is +always implied; but it is more usual to prescribe the course of tillage +which is to be pursued. In the case of houses for occupation, the tenant +would have to keep the house in a tenantable state of repair during the +term, and deliver it up in like condition. This is not the case with the +tenant at will, or from year to year, where the landlord has to keep the +house in tenantable repair, and the tenant is only liable for waste +beyond reasonable wear and tear. + +2708. INSURANCE.--Every lease, or agreement for a lease, should covenant +not only who is to pay insurance, but how the tenement is to be rebuilt +in the event of a fire; for if the house were burnt down, and no +provision made for insurance, the tenant, supposing there was the +ordinary covenant to repair in the lease, would not only have to +rebuild, but to pay rent while it was being rebuilt. More than this, +supposing, under the same lease, the landlord had taken the precaution +of insuring, he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered in +rebuilding the premises. Sir John Leach lays it down, that "the tenant's +situation could not be changed by a precaution, on the part of the +landlord, with which he had nothing to do." This decision Lord Campbell +confirmed in a more recent case, in which an action was brought against +a lessee who was not bound to repair, and neither he nor the landlord +bound to insure; admitting an equitable defence, the court affirmed Sir +John Leach's decision, holding that the tenant was bound to pay the +rent, and could not require the landlord to lay out the insurance money +in rebuilding. This is opposed to the opinion of Lord St. Leonards, who +admits, however, that the decision of the court must overrule his +_dictum_. Such being the state of the law, it is very important that +insurance should be provided for, and that the payment of rent should be +made to depend upon rebuilding the house in the event of a fire. Care +must be taken, however, that this is made a covenant of the lease, as +well as in the agreement, otherwise the tenant must rebuild the house. + +2709. The law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages by +tempest, lightning, or other natural casualty, unless there is a special +covenant to that effect in the lease; but if there is a general covenant +to repair, the repair will fall upon the tenant. Lord Kenyon lays it +down, in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood, the tenant being +under a general covenant to repair, that, "where a party, by his own +contract, creates a duty or charge upon himself, he is bound to make it +good, because he might have guarded against it in the contract." The +same principle of law has been applied to a house destroyed by +lightning. It is, therefore, important to have this settled in the +insurance clause. + +2710. Lord St. Leonards asserts that "his policies against fire are not +so framed as to render the company _legally_ liable." Generally the +property is inaccurately described with reference to the conditions +under which you insure. They are framed by companies who, probably, are +not unwilling to have a legal defence against any claim, as they intend +to pay what they deem just claim without taking advantage of any +technical objection, and intending to make use of their defence only +against what they believe to be a fraud, although they may not be able +to prove it. "But," says his lordship, "do not rely upon the moral +feelings of the directors. Ascertain that your house falls strictly +within the conditions. Even having the surveyor of the company to look +over your house before the insurance will not save you, unless your +policy is correct." This is true; but probably his lordship's legal +jealousy overshoots the mark here. Assurance companies only require an +honest statement of the facts, and that no concealment is practised with +their surveyor; and the case of his own, which he quotes, in which a +glass door led into a conservatory, rendering it, according to the view +of the company, "hazardous," and consequently voiding the policy, when a +fire did occur, the company paid, rather than try the question; but even +after the fire they demurred, when called upon, to make the description +correct and indorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room opened +through a glass door into conservatories. One of two inferences is +obvious here; either his lordship has overcoloured the statement, or the +company could not be the respectable one represented. The practice with +all reputable offices is to survey the premises before insurance, and to +describe them as they appear; but no concealment of stoves, or other +dangerous accessories or inflammable goods, should be practised. This +certainly binds the office so long as no change takes place; but the +addition of any stove, opening, or door through a party wall, the +introduction of gunpowder, saltpetre, or other inflammable articles into +the premises without notice, very properly "voids the policy." The usual +course is to give notice of all alterations, and have them indorse on +the policy, as additions to the description of the property: there is +little fear, where this is honestly done, that any company would adopt +the sharp practice hinted at in Lord St. Leonards' excellent handy book. + +2711. BREAKS IN THE LEASE.--Where a lease is for seven, fourteen, or +twenty-one years, the option to determine it at the end of the first +term is in the tenant, unless it is distinctly agreed that the option +shall be mutual, according to Lord St. Leonards. + +2712. NOXIOUS TRADES.--A clause is usually introduced prohibiting the +carrying on of any trade in some houses, and of noxious or particular +trades in others. This clause should be jealously inspected, otherwise +great annoyance may be produced. It has been held that a general clause +of this description prohibited a tenant from keeping a school, for which +he had taken it, although a lunatic asylum and public-house have been +found admissible; the keeping an asylum not being deemed a trade, which +is defined as "conducted by buying and selling." It is better to have +the trades, or class of trades objected to, defined in the lease. + +2713. FIXTURES.--In houses held under lease, it has been the practice +with landlords to lease the bare walls of the tenement only, leaving the +lessee to put in the stoves, cupboards, and such other conveniences as +he requires, at his own option. Those, except under particular +circumstances, are the property of the lessee, and may either be sold to +an incoming tenant, or removed at the end of his term. The articles +which may not be removed are subject to considerable doubt, and are a +fruitful source of dispute. Mr. Commissioner Fonblanque has defined as +tenants' property all goods and chattels; 2ndly, all articles "slightly +connected one with another, and with the freehold, but capable of being +separated without materially injuring the freehold;" 3rdly, articles +fixed to the freehold by nails and screws, bolts or pegs, are also +tenants' goods and chattels; but when sunk in the soil, or built on it, +they are integral parts of the freehold, and cannot be removed. Thus, a +greenhouse or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is not +removable; but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated, +may be removed or sold to the in-coming tenant. A brick flue does not +come under the same category, but remains. Window-blinds, grates, +stoves, coffee-mills, and, in a general sense, everything he has placed +which can be removed without injury to the freehold, he may remove, if +they are separated from the tenement during his term, and the place made +good. It is not unusual to leave the fixtures in their place, with an +undertaking from the landlord that, when again let, the in-coming tenant +shall pay for them, or permit their removal. In a recent case, however, +a tenant having held over beyond his term and not removed his fixtures, +the landlord let the premises to a new tenant, who entered into +possession, and would not allow the fixtures to be removed--it was held +by the courts, on trial, that he was justified. A similar case occurred +to the writer: he left his fixtures in the house, taking a letter from +the landlord, undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay for them +by valuation, or permit their removal. The house was let; the landlord +died. His executors, on being applied to, pleaded ignorance, as did the +tenant, and on being furnished with a copy of the letter, the executors +told applicant that if he was aggrieved, he knew his remedy; namely, an +action at law. He thought the first loss the least, and has not altered +his opinion. + +2714. TAXES.--Land-tax, sewers-rate, and property-tax, are landlord's +taxes; but by 30 Geo. II. c. 2, the occupier is required to pay all +rates levied, and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to the +landlord. Many landlords now insert a covenant, stipulating that +land-tax and sewers-rate are to be paid by the tenants, and not +deducted: this does not apply to the property-tax. All other taxes and +rates are payable by the occupier. + +2715. WATER-RATE, of course, is paid by the tenant. The water-companies, +as well as gas-companies, have the power of cutting off the supply; and +most of them have also the right of distraining, in the same manner as +landlords have for rent. + +2716. NOTICE TO QUIT.--In the case of leasing for a term, no notice is +necessary; the tenant quits, as a matter of course, at its termination; +or if, by tacit consent, he remains paying rent as heretofore, he +becomes a tenant at sufferance, or from year to year. Half a year's +notice now becomes necessary, as we have already seen, to terminate the +tenancy; except in London, and the rent is under forty shillings, when a +quarter's notice is sufficient. Either of these notices may be given +verbally, if it can be proved that the notice was definite, and given at +the right time. Form of notice is quite immaterial, provided it is +definite and clear in its purport. + +2717. Tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to the +taking. Thus, when taken for three months, a three months' notice is +required; when monthly, a month's notice; and when weekly, a week's +notice; but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rent +is allowed to stand over for three months. When taken for a definite +time, as a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is necessary on either +side. + +2718. DILAPIDATIONS.--At the termination of a lease, supposing he has +not done so before, a landlord can, and usually does, send a surveyor to +report upon the condition of the tenement, and it becomes his duty to +ferret out every defect. A litigious landlord may drag the outgoing +tenant into an expensive lawsuit, which he has no power to prevent. He +may even compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he has +effected in the tenement itself, if dilapidations exist. When the lessor +covenants to do all repairs, and fails to do so, the lessee may repair, +and deduct the cost from the rent. + +2719. RECOVERY OF RENT.--The remedies placed in the hands of landlords +are very stringent. The day after rent falls due, he may proceed to +recover it, by action at law, by distress on the premises, or by action +of ejectment, if the rent is half a year in arrear. Distress is the +remedy usually applied, the landlord being authorized to enter the +premises, seize the goods and chattels of his tenant, and sell them, on +the fifth day, to reimburse himself for all arrears of rent and the +charges of the distress. There are a few exceptions; but, generally, all +goods found on the premises may be seized. The exceptions are--dogs, +rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and implements of a man's trade actually +in use, the books of a scholar, the axe of a carpenter, wearing apparel +on the person, a horse at the plough, or a horse he may be riding, a +watch in the pocket, loose money, deeds, writings, the cattle at a +smithy forge, corn sent to a mill for grinding, cattle and goods of a +guest at an inn; but, curiously enough, carriages and horses standing at +livery at the same inn may be taken. Distress can only be levied in the +daytime, and if made after the tender of arrears, it is illegal. If +tender is made after the distress, but before it is _impounded_, the +landlord must abandon the distress and bear the cost himself. Nothing of +a perishable nature, which cannot be restored in the same condition--as +milk, fruit, and the like, must be taken. + +2720. The law does not regard a day as consisting of portions. The +popular notion that a notice to quit should be served before noon is an +error. Although distraint is one of the remedies, it is seldom advisable +in a landlord to resort to distraining for the recovery of rent. If a +tenant cannot pay his rent, the sooner he leaves the premises the +better. If he be a rogue and won't pay, he will probably know that nine +out of ten distresses are illegal, through the carelessness, ignorance, +or extortion of the brokers who execute them. Many, if not most, of the +respectable brokers will not execute distresses, and the business falls +into the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ. + +2721. Powers to relieve landlords of premises, by giving them legal +possession, are given by 19 & 20 Vict., cap. 108, to the county courts, +in cases where the rent does not exceed L50 per annum, and under the +circumstances hereinafter mentioned; i.e.:-- + + 1. Where the term has expired, or been determined by notice to + quit. + + 2. Where there is one half-year's rent in arrear, and _the + landlord shall have right by law to enter for the nonpayment + thereof_. As proof of this power is required, the importance of + including such a power in the agreement for tenancy will be + obvious. + +In the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed, as well as +the possession of the premises, in one summons. + +2722. When a tenant deserts premises, leaving one half-year's rent in +arrear, possession may be recovered by means of the police-court. The +rent must not exceed L20 per annum, and must be at least three-fourths +of the value of the premises. In cases in which the tenant has not +deserted the premises, and where notice to quit has been given and has +expired, the landlord must give notice to the tenant of his intended +application. The annual rent in this case, also, must not exceed L20. + +2723. THE I. O. U.--The law is not particular as to orthography; in +fact, it distinctly refuses to recognize the existence of that +delightful science. You may bring your action against Mr. Jacob +Phillips, under the fanciful denomination of Jaycobb Fillipse, if you +like, and the law won't care, because the law goes by ear; and, although +it insists upon having everything written, things written are only +supposed in law to have any meaning when read, which is, after all, a +common-sense rule enough. So, instead of "I owe you," persons of a +cheerful disposition, so frequently found connected with debt, used to +write facetiously I. O. U., and the law approved of their so doing. An +I. O. U. is nothing more than a written admission of a debt, and may run +thus:-- + + 15th October, 1860. + To Mr. W. BROWN. + + I. O. U. ten pounds for coals. + + L10. JOHN JONES. + +If to this you add the time of payment, as "payable in one month from +this date," your I. O. U. is worthless and illegal; for it thus ceases +to be a mere acknowledgment, and becomes a promissory note. Now a +promissory note requires a stamp, which an I. O. U. does not. Many +persons, nevertheless, stick penny stamps upon them, probably for +ornamental effect, or to make them look serious and authoritative. If +for the former purpose, the postage-stamp looks better than the receipt +stamp upon blue paper. If you are W. Brown, and you didn't see the I. O. +U. signed, and can't find anybody who knows Jones's autograph, and Jones +won't pay, the I. O. U. will be of no use to you in the county court, +except to make the judge laugh. He will, however, allow you to prove the +consideration, and as, of course, you won't be prepared to do anything +of the sort, he will, if you ask him politely, adjourn the hearing for a +week, when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered the article, +and thus gain a glorious victory. + +2724. APPRENTICES.--By the statute 5 Eliz. cap. 4, it is enacted that, +in cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices, or of neglect of +duty by apprentices, the complaining party may apply to a justice of the +peace, who may make such order as equity may require. If, for want of +conformity on the part of the master, this cannot be done, then the +master may be bound to appear at the next sessions. Authority is given +by the act to the justices in sessions to discharge the apprentice from +his indentures. They are also empowered, on proof of misbehaviour of the +apprentice, to order him to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labour. + +2725. HUSBAND AND WIFE.--Contrary to the vulgar opinion, second cousins, +as well as first, may legally marry. When married, a husband is liable +for his wife's debts contracted before marriage. A creditor desirous of +suing for such a claim should proceed against both. It will, however, be +sufficient if the husband be served with process, the names of both +appearing therein, thus:--John Jones and Ann his wife. A married woman, +if sued alone, may plead her marriage, or, as it is called in law, +coverture. The husband is liable for debts of his wife contracted for +necessaries while living with him. If she voluntarily leaves his +protection, this liability ceases. He is also liable for any debts +contracted by her with his authority. If the husband have abjured the +realm, or been transported by a sentence of law, the wife is liable +during his absence, as if she were a single woman, for debts contracted +by her. + +2726. In civil cases, a wife may now give evidence on behalf of her +husband in criminal cases she can neither be a witness for or against +her husband. The case of assault by him upon her forms an exception to +this rule. + +2727. The law does not at this day admit the ancient principle of +allowing moderate correction by a husband upon the person of his wife. +Although this is said to have been anciently limited to the use of "a +stick not bigger than the thumb," this barbarity is now altogether +exploded. He may, notwithstanding, as has been recently shown in the +famous Agapemone case, keep her under restraint, to prevent her leaving +him, provided this be effected without cruelty. + +2728. By the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act, 1857, a wife deserted +by her husband may apply to a magistrate, or to the petty sessions, for +an order to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by her +after such desertion, from her husband and his creditors. In this case +it is indispensable that such order shall, within ten days, be entered +at the county court of the district within which she resides. It will be +seen that the basis of an application for such an order is _desertion_. +Consequently, where the parties have separated by common consent, such +an order cannot be obtained, any previous cruelty or misconduct on the +husband's part notwithstanding. + +2729. When a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name in +a savings-bank, and he survives her, it is sometimes the rule of such +establishments to compel him to take out administration in order to +receive such money, although it is questionable whether such rule is +legally justifiable. Widows and widowers pay no legacy-duty for property +coming to them through their deceased partners. + +2730. RECEIPTS for sums above L2 should now be given upon penny stamps. +A bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsement +stating that it has been paid, and this will not be liable to the stamp. +A receipt is not, as commonly supposed, conclusive evidence as to a +payment. It is only what the law terms _prima facie_ evidence; that is, +good until contradicted or explained. Thus, if A sends wares or +merchandise to B, with a receipt, as a hint that the transaction is +intended to be for ready money, and B detain the receipt without paying +the cash, A will be at liberty to prove the circumstances and to recover +his claim. The evidence to rebut the receipt must, however, be clear and +indubitable, as, after all, written evidence is of a stronger nature +than oral testimony. + +2731. BOOKS OF ACCOUNT.--A tradesman's books of account cannot be +received as evidence in his own behalf, unless the entries therein be +proved to have been brought under the notice of, and admitted to be +correct by the other party, as is commonly the case with the +"pass-books" employed backwards and forwards between bakers, butchers, +and the like domestic traders, and their customers. The defendant may, +however, compel the tradesman to produce his books to show entries +adverse to his own claim. + +2732. WILLS.--The last proof of affection which we can give to those left +behind, is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to excite +neither jealousy, nor anger, nor heartrendings of any kind, at least for +the immediate future. This can only be done by a just, clear, and +intelligible disposal of whatever there is to leave. Without being +advocates for every man being his own lawyer, it is not to be denied +that the most elaborately prepared wills have been the most fruitful +sources of litigation, and it has even happened that learned judges left +wills behind them which could not be carried out. Except in cases where +the property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure, very +elaborate details are unnecessary; and we counsel no man to use words in +making his will of which he does not perfectly understand the meaning +and import. + +2733. All men over twenty-one years of age, and of sound mind, and all +unmarried women of like age and sanity, may by will bequeath their +property to whom they please. Infants, that is, all persons under +twenty-one years of age, and married women, except where they have an +estate to their "own separate use," are incapacitated, without the +concurrence of the husband; the law taking the disposal of any property +they die possessed of. A person born deaf and dumb cannot make a will, +unless there is evidence that he could read and comprehend its contents. +A person convicted of felony cannot make a will, unless subsequently +pardoned; neither can persons outlawed; but the wife of a felon +transported for life may make a will, and act in all respects as if she +were unmarried. A suicide may bequeath real estate, but personal +property is forfeited to the crown. + +2734. Except in the case of soldiers on actual service, and sailors at +sea, every will must be made in writing. It must be signed by the +testator, or by some other person in his presence, and at his request, +and the signature must be made or acknowledged in the presence of two or +more witnesses, who are required to be present at the same time, who +declare by signing that the will was signed by the testator, or +acknowledged in their presence, and that they signed as witnesses in +testator's presence. + +2735. By the act of 1852 it was enacted that no will shall be valid +unless signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator, or by some +person in his presence, and by his direction; but a subsequent act +proceeds to say that every will shall, as far only as regards the +position of the signature of the testator, or of the person signing for +him, be deemed valid if the signature shall be so placed at, or after, +or following, or under, or beside, or opposite to the end of the will, +that it shall be apparent on the face of it that the testator intended +to give it effect by such signature. Under this clause, a will of +several sheets, all of which were duly signed, except the last one, has +been refused probate; while, on the other hand, a similar document has +been admitted to probate where the last sheet only, and none of the +other sheets, was signed. In order to be perfectly formal, however, each +separate sheet should be numbered, signed, and witnessed, and attested +on the last sheet. This witnessing is an important act: the witnesses +must subscribe it in the presence of the testator and of each other; and +by their signature they testify to having witnessed the signature of the +testator, he being in sound mind at the time. Wills made under any kind +of coercion, or even importunity may become void, being contrary to the +wishes of the testator. Fraud or imposition also renders a will void, +and where two wills made by the same person happen to exist, neither of +them dated, the maker of the wills is declared to have died intestate. + +2736. A will may always be revoked and annulled, but only by burning or +entirely destroying the writing, or by adding a codicil, or making a +subsequent will duly attested; but as the alteration of a will is only a +revocation to the extent of the alteration, if it is intended to revoke +the original will entirely, such intention should be declared,--no +merely verbal directions can revoke a written will; and the act of +running the pen through the signatures, or down the page, is not +sufficient to cancel it, without a written declaration to that effect +signed and witnessed. + +2737. A will made before marriage is revoked thereby. + +2738. A codicil is a supplement or addition to a will, either explaining +or altering former dispositions; it may be written on the same or +separate paper, and is to be witnessed and attested in the same manner +as the original document. + +2739. WITNESSES.--Any persons are qualified to witness a will who can +write their names; but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will. If +a legacy is granted to the persons witnessing, it is void. The same rule +applies to the husband or wife of a witness; a bequest made to either of +these is void. + +2740. FORM OF WILLS.--Form is unimportant, provided the testator's +intention is clear. It should commence with his designation; that is, +his name and surname, place of abode, profession, or occupation. The +legatees should also be clearly described. In leaving a legacy to a +married woman, if no trustees are appointed over it, and no specific +directions given, "that it is for her sole and separate use, free from +the control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband," the husband will +be entitled to the legacy. In the same manner a legacy to an unmarried +woman will vest in her husband after marriage, unless a settlement of it +is made on her before marriage. + +2741. In sudden emergencies a form may be useful, and the following has +been considered a good one for a death-bed will, where the assistance of +a solicitor could not be obtained; indeed, few solicitors can prepare a +will on the spur of the moment: they require time and legal forms, which +are by no means necessary, before they can act. + + I, A.B., of No. 10, ----, Street, in the city of ---- + [gentleman, builder, or grocer, as the case may be,] being of + sound mind, thus publish and declare my last will and testament. + Revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property, I + give and bequeath as follows:--to my son J.B., of ----, I give + and bequeath the sum of ---; to my daughter M., the wife of J., + of ----, I give and bequeath the sum of ---- [if intended for + her own use, add "to her sole and separate use, free from the + control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband"], both in + addition to any sum or sums of money or other property they have + before had from me. All the remaining property I die possessed + of I leave to my dear wife M. B., for her sole and separate use + during her natural life, together with my house and furniture, + situate at No. 10, ---- Street, aforesaid. At her death, I + desire that the said house shall be sold, with all the goods and + chattels therein [or, I give and bequeath the said house, with + all the goods and chattels therein, to ----], and the money + realized from the sale, together with that in which my said wife + had a life-interest, I give and bequeath in equal moieties to my + son and daughter before named. I appoint my dear friend T.S., of + ----, and T.B., of ----, together with my wife M.B., as + executors to this my last will and testament. + + Signed by A.B., this 10th day of October, 1861, in our presence, + both being present together, and both having signed as + witnesses, in the presence of the testator:--A.B. + + T.S., Witness. F.M., Witness. + +It is to be observed that the signature of the testator after this +attestation has been signed by the witnesses, is not a compliance with +the act; he must sign first. + +2742. STAMP-DUTIES.--In the case of persons dying intestate, when their +effects are administered to by their family, the stamp-duty is half as +much more as it would have been under a will. Freehold and copyhold +estates are now subject to a special impost on passing, by the Stamp Act +of 1857. + +2743. The legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to L20 and upwards; +and where it is not directed otherwise, the duty is deducted from the +legacy. + +2744. You cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathing +land or tenements, or money to purchase such, to any charitable use, by +your last will and testament; but you may devise them to the British +Museum, to either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, to +Eton, Winchester, and Westminster; and you may, if so inclined, leave it +for the augmentation of Queen Anne's bounty. You may, however, order +your executors to sell land and hand over the money received to any +charitable institution. + +2745. In making provision for a wife, state whether it is in lieu of, or +in addition to, dower. + +2746. If you have advanced money to any child, and taken an +acknowledgment for it, or entered it in any book of account, you should +declare whether any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance, +or whether it is to be deducted from the legacy. + +2747. A legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by your +leaving another legacy by a codicil to the same person, unless it is +stated to be in addition to the former bequest. + +2748. Your entire estate is chargeable with your debts, except where the +real estate is settled. Let it be distinctly stated out of which +property, the real or personal, they are paid, where it consists of +both. + +2749. Whatever is _devised_, let the intention be clearly expressed, and +without any condition, if you intend it to take effect. + +2750. Attestation is not necessary to a will, as the act of witnessing +is all the law requires, and the will itself declares the testator to be +of sound mind in his own estimation; but, wherever there are erasures or +interlineations, one becomes necessary. No particular form is +prescribed; but it should state that the testator either signed it +himself, or that another signed it by his request, or that he +acknowledged the signature to be his in their presence, both being +present together, and signed as witnesses in his presence. When there +are erasures, the attestation must declare that--The words interlined in +the third line of page 4, and the erasure in the fifth line of page 6, +having been first made. These are the acts necessary to make a properly +executed will; and, being simple in themselves and easily performed, +they should be strictly complied with, and always attested. + +2751. A witness may, on being requested, sign for testator; and he may +also sign for his fellow-witness, supposing he can only make his mark, +declaring that he does so; but a husband cannot sign for his wife, +either as testator or witness, nor can a wife for her husband. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT*** + + +******* This file should be named 10136.txt or 10136.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/1/3/10136 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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