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diff --git a/1039-0.txt b/1039-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4d8a75 --- /dev/null +++ b/1039-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,27740 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1039 *** + +MISSIONARY TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA. + +Also called, Travels and Researches in South Africa; + +or, Journeys and Researches in South Africa. + +By David Livingstone + +[British (Scot) Missionary and Explorer--1813-1873.] + + + + [NOTE by the Project Gutenberg Contributor of this file: + + This etext was prepared by Alan. R. Light To assure a high quality text, + the original was typed in (manually) twice and electronically compared. + Italicized words or phrases are CAPITALIZED. + + David Livingstone was born in Scotland, received his medical degree from + the University of Glasgow, and was sent to South Africa by the London + Missionary Society. Circumstances led him to try to meet the material + needs as well as the spiritual needs of the people he went to, and while + promoting trade and trying to end slavery, he became the first European + to cross the continent of Africa, which story is related in this book. + Two appendixes have been added to this etext, one of which is simply + notes on the minor changes made to make this etext more readable, (old + vs. new forms of words, names, etc.); the other is a review from the + February, 1858 edition of Harper's Magazine, which is included both for + those readers who want to see a brief synopsis, and more importantly to + give an example of how Livingstone's accomplishments were seen in + his own time. The unnamed reviewer was by no means as enlightened as + Livingstone, yet he was not entirely in the dark, either. + + The casual reader, who may not be familiar with the historical period, + should note that a few things that Livingstone wrote, which might be + seen as racist by today's standards, was not considered so in his + own time. Livingstone simply uses the terms and the science of his + day--these were no doubt flawed, as is also seen elsewhere, in his + references to malaria, for example. Which all goes to show that it was + the science of the day which was flawed, and not so much Livingstone. + + I will also add that the Rev. Livingstone has a fine sense of humour, + which I hope the reader will enjoy. His description of a Makololo dance + is classic. + + Lastly, I will note that what I love most about Livingstone's + descriptions is not only that he was not polluted by the racism of his + day, but that he was not polluted by the anti-racism of our own. He + states things as he sees them, and notes that the Africans are, like all + other men, a curious mixture of good and evil. This, to me, demonstrates + his good faith better than any other description could. You see, David + Livingstone does not write about Africa as a missionary, nor as an + explorer, nor yet as a scientist, but as a man meeting fellow men. I + hope you will enjoy his writings as much as I did. + + Alan R. Light + + Monroe, N.C., 1997.] + + + + + +MISSIONARY TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA; + +Including a Sketch of Sixteen Years' Residence in the Interior of +Africa, and a Journey from the Cape of Good Hope to Loanda on the West +Coast; Thence Across the Continent, Down the River Zambesi, to the +Eastern Ocean. + +By David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L., Fellow of the Faculty of Physicians +and Surgeons, Glasgow; Corresponding Member of the Geographical and +Statistical Society of New York; Gold Medalist and Corresponding Member +of the Royal Geographical Societies of London and Paris F.S.A., Etc., +Etc. + + + + + +Dedication. + + + +To + +SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON, + +President Royal Geographical Society, F.R.S., V.P.G.S., + +Corr. Inst. of France, and Member of the Academies of St. Petersburg, + +Berlin, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Brussels, Etc., + + +This Work + +is affectionately offered as a Token of Gratitude for the kind interest +he has always taken in the Author's pursuits and welfare; and to express +admiration of his eminent scientific attainments, nowhere more strongly +evidenced than by the striking hypothesis respecting the physical +conformation of the African continent, promulgated in his Presidential +Address to the Royal Geographic Society in 1852, and verified three +years afterward by the Author of these Travels. + +DAVID LIVINGSTONE. London, Oct., 1857. + + + + + +Preface. + +When honored with a special meeting of welcome by the Royal Geographical +Society a few days after my arrival in London in December last, Sir +Roderick Murchison, the President, invited me to give the world a +narrative of my travels; and at a similar meeting of the Directors of +the London Missionary Society I publicly stated my intention of sending +a book to the press, instead of making many of those public appearances +which were urged upon me. The preparation of this narrative* has +taken much longer time than, from my inexperience in authorship, I had +anticipated. + + * Several attempts having been made to impose upon the public, + as mine, spurious narratives of my travels, I beg to tender my + thanks to the editors of the 'Times' and of the 'Athenaeum' + for aiding to expose them, and to the booksellers of London + for refusing to SUBSCRIBE for any copies. + +Greater smoothness of diction and a saving of time might have been +secured by the employment of a person accustomed to compilation; but my +journals having been kept for my own private purposes, no one else +could have made use of them, or have entered with intelligence into the +circumstances in which I was placed in Africa, far from any European +companion. Those who have never carried a book through the press +can form no idea of the amount of toil it involves. The process has +increased my respect for authors and authoresses a thousand-fold. + +I can not refrain from referring, with sentiments of admiration +and gratitude, to my friend Thomas Maclear, Esq., the accomplished +Astronomer Royal at the Cape. I shall never cease to remember his +instructions and help with real gratitude. The intercourse I had the +privilege to enjoy at the Observatory enabled me to form an idea of the +almost infinite variety of acquirements necessary to form a true and +great astronomer, and I was led to the conviction that it will be long +before the world becomes overstocked with accomplished members of that +profession. Let them be always honored according to their deserts; and +long may Maclear, Herschel, Airy, and others live to make known the +wonders and glory of creation, and to aid in rendering the pathway of +the world safe to mariners, and the dark places of the earth open to +Christians! + +I beg to offer my hearty thanks to my friend Sir Roderick Murchison, +and also to Dr. Norton Shaw, the secretary of the Royal Geographical +Society, for aiding my researches by every means in their power. + +His faithful majesty Don Pedro V., having kindly sent out orders to +support my late companions until my return, relieved my mind of anxiety +on their account. But for this act of liberality, I should certainly +have been compelled to leave England in May last; and it has afforded me +the pleasure of traveling over, in imagination, every scene again, +and recalling the feelings which actuated me at the time. I have much +pleasure in acknowledging my deep obligations to the hospitality and +kindness of the Portuguese on many occasions. + +I have not entered into the early labors, trials, and successes of the +missionaries who preceded me in the Bechuana country, because that has +been done by the much abler pen of my father-in-law, Rev. Robert Moffat, +of Kuruman, who has been an energetic and devoted actor in the scene for +upward of forty years. A slight sketch only is given of my own attempts, +and the chief part of the book is taken up with a detail of the efforts +made to open up a new field north of the Bechuana country to the +sympathies of Christendom. The prospects there disclosed are fairer than +I anticipated, and the capabilities of the new region lead me to hope +that by the production of the raw materials of our manufactures, African +and English interests will become more closely linked than heretofore, +that both countries will be eventually benefited, and that the cause of +freedom throughout the world will in some measure be promoted. + +Dr. Hooker, of Kew, has had the kindness to name and classify for me, +as far as possible, some of the new botanical specimens which I brought +over; Dr. Andrew Smith (himself an African traveler) has aided me in +the zoology; and Captain Need has laid open for my use his portfolio +of African sketches, for all which acts of liberality my thanks are +deservedly due, as well as to my brother, who has rendered me willing +aid as an amanuensis. + +Although I can not profess to be a draughtsman, I brought home with me +a few rough diagram-sketches, from one of which the view of the Falls of +the Zambesi has been prepared by a more experienced artist. + +October, 1857. + + + + + +Contents. + + + Introduction. Personal Sketch--Highland Ancestors--Family + Traditions--Grandfather removes to the Lowlands--Parents-- + Early Labors and Efforts--Evening School--Love of Reading-- + Religious Impressions--Medical Education--Youthful Travels-- + Geology--Mental Discipline--Study in Glasgow--London + Missionary Society--Native Village--Medical Diploma-- + Theological Studies--Departure for Africa--No Claim to + Literary Accomplishments. + + Chapter 1. The Bakwain Country--Study of the Language--Native + Ideas regarding Comets--Mabotsa Station--A Lion Encounter-- + Virus of the Teeth of Lions--Names of the Bechuana Tribes-- + Sechele--His Ancestors--Obtains the Chieftainship--His + Marriage and Government--The Kotla--First public Religious + Services--Sechele's Questions--He Learns to Read--Novel mode + for Converting his Tribe--Surprise at their Indifference-- + Polygamy--Baptism of Sechele--Opposition of the Natives-- + Purchase Land at Chonuane--Relations with the People--Their + Intelligence--Prolonged Drought--Consequent Trials--Rain- + medicine--God's Word blamed--Native Reasoning--Rain-maker-- + Dispute between Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor--The Hunting + Hopo--Salt or animal Food a necessary of Life--Duties of a + Missionary. + + Chapter 2. The Boers--Their Treatment of the Natives--Seizure + of native Children for Slaves--English Traders--Alarm of the + Boers--Native Espionage--The Tale of the Cannon--The Boers + threaten Sechele--In violation of Treaty, they stop English + Traders and expel Missionaries--They attack the Bakwains-- + Their Mode of Fighting--The Natives killed and the School- + children carried into Slavery--Destruction of English + Property--African Housebuilding and Housekeeping--Mode of + Spending the Day--Scarcity of Food--Locusts--Edible Frogs-- + Scavenger Beetle--Continued Hostility of the Boers--The + Journey north--Preparations--Fellow-travelers--The Kalahari + Desert--Vegetation--Watermelons--The Inhabitants--The Bushmen- + -Their nomad Mode of Life--Appearance--The Bakalahari--Their + Love for Agriculture and for domestic Animals--Timid + Character--Mode of obtaining Water--Female Water-suckers--The + Desert--Water hidden. + + Chapter 3. Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849-- + Companions--Our Route--Abundance of Grass--Serotli, a Fountain + in the Desert--Mode of digging Wells--The Eland--Animals of + the Desert--The Hyaena--The Chief Sekomi--Dangers--The + wandering Guide--Cross Purposes--Slow Progress--Want of Water-- + Capture of a Bushwoman--The Salt-pan at Nchokotsa--The + Mirage--Reach the River Zouga--The Quakers of Africa-- + Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849--Its Extent--Small + Depth of Water--Position as the Reservoir of a great River + System--The Bamangwato and their Chief--Desire to visit + Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo--Refusal of Lechulatebe + to furnish us with Guides--Resolve to return to the Cape--The + Banks of the Zouga--Pitfalls--Trees of the District-- + Elephants--New Species of Antelope--Fish in the Zouga. + + Chapter 4. Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane-- + Reach the Zouga--The Tsetse--A Party of Englishmen--Death of + Mr. Rider--Obtain Guides--Children fall sick with Fever-- + Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituane--Mr. Oswell's + Elephant-hunting--Return to Kolobeng--Make a third Start + thence--Reach Nchokotsa--Salt-pans--"Links", or Springs-- + Bushmen--Our Guide Shobo--The Banajoa--An ugly Chief--The + Tsetse--Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but harmless to wild + Animals and Man--Operation of the Poison--Losses caused by it-- + The Makololo--Our Meeting with Sebituane--Sketch of his + Career--His Courage and Conquests--Manoeuvres of the Batoka-- + He outwits them--His Wars with the Matebele--Predictions of a + native Prophet--Successes of the Makololo--Renewed Attacks of + the Matebele--The Island of Loyelo--Defeat of the Matebele-- + Sebituane's Policy--His Kindness to Strangers and to the Poor-- + His sudden Illness and Death--Succeeded by his Daughter--Her + Friendliness to us--Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi + flowing in the Centre of the Continent--Its Size--The Mambari-- + The Slave-trade--Determine to send Family to England--Return + to the Cape in April, 1852--Safe Transit through the Caffre + Country during Hostilities--Need of a "Special Correspondent" + --Kindness of the London Missionary Society--Assistance + afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape. + + Chapter 5. Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest + Journey from Cape Town--Companions--Wagon-traveling--Physical + Divisions of Africa--The Eastern, Central, and Western Zones-- + The Kalahari Desert--Its Vegetation--Increasing Value of the + Interior for Colonization--Our Route--Dutch Boers--Their + Habits--Sterile Appearance of the District--Failure of Grass-- + Succeeded by other Plants--Vines--Animals--The Boers as + Farmers--Migration of Springbucks--Wariness of Animals--The + Orange River--Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas--The + Griquas--The Chief Waterboer--His wise and energetic + Government--His Fidelity--Ill-considered Measures of the + Colonial Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder-- + Success of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas-- + Manifest Improvement of the native Character--Dress of the + Natives--A full-dress Costume--A Native's Description of the + Natives--Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas-- + Their Unwillingness to learn, and Readiness to criticise. + + Chapter 6. Kuruman--Its fine Fountain--Vegetation of the + District--Remains of ancient Forests--Vegetable Poison--The + Bible translated by Mr. Moffat--Capabilities of the Language-- + Christianity among the Natives--The Missionaries should extend + their Labors more beyond the Cape Colony--Model Christians-- + Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains--Letter from + Sechele--Details of the Attack--Numbers of School-children + carried away into Slavery--Destruction of House and Property + at Kolobeng--The Boers vow Vengeance against me--Consequent + Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Journey-- + Start in November, 1852--Meet Sechele on his way to England to + obtain Redress from the Queen--He is unable to proceed beyond + the Cape--Meet Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami--The + hot Wind of the Desert--Electric State of the Atmosphere-- + Flock of Swifts--Reach Litubaruba--The Cave Lepelole-- + Superstitions regarding it--Impoverished State of the + Bakwains--Retaliation on the Boers--Slavery--Attachment of the + Bechuanas to Children--Hydrophobia unknown--Diseases of the + Bakwains few in number--Yearly Epidemics--Hasty Burials-- + Ophthalmia--Native Doctors--Knowledge of Surgery at a very low + Ebb--Little Attendance given to Women at their Confinements-- + The "Child Medicine"--Salubrity of the Climate well adapted + for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Complaints. + + Chapter 7. Departure from the Country of the Bakwains--Large + black Ant--Land Tortoises--Diseases of wild Animals--Habits of + old Lions--Cowardice of the Lion--Its Dread of a Snare--Major + Vardon's Note--The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the + Ostrich--Seldom attacks full-grown Animals--Buffaloes and + Lions--Mice--Serpents--Treading on one--Venomous and harmless + Varieties--Fascination--Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty--Ceremony of + the Sechu for Boys--The Boyale for young Women--Bamangwato + Hills--The Unicorn's Pass--The Country beyond--Grain--Scarcity + of Water--Honorable Conduct of English Gentlemen--Gordon + Cumming's hunting Adventures--A Word of Advice for young + Sportsmen--Bushwomen drawing Water--Ostrich--Silly Habit-- + Paces--Eggs--Food. + + Chapter 8. Effects of Missionary Efforts--Belief in the Deity-- + Ideas of the Bakwains on Religion--Departure from their + Country--Salt-pans--Sour Curd--Nchokotsa--Bitter Waters-- + Thirst suffered by the wild Animals--Wanton Cruelty in + Hunting--Ntwetwe--Mowana-trees--Their extraordinary Vitality-- + The Mopane-tree--The Morala--The Bushmen--Their Superstitions-- + Elephant-hunting--Superiority of civilized over barbarous + Sportsmen--The Chief Kaisa--His Fear of Responsibility--Beauty + of the Country at Unku--The Mohonono Bush--Severe Labor in + cutting our Way--Party seized with Fever--Escape of our + Cattle--Bakwain Mode of recapturing them--Vagaries of sick + Servants--Discovery of grape-bearing Vines--An Ant-eater-- + Difficulty of passing through the Forest--Sickness of my + Companion--The Bushmen--Their Mode of destroying Lions-- + Poisons--The solitary Hill--A picturesque Valley--Beauty of + the Country--Arrive at the Sanshureh River--The flooded + Prairies--A pontooning Expedition--A night Bivouac--The Chobe-- + Arrive at the Village of Moremi--Surprise of the Makololo at + our sudden Appearance--Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti. + + Chapter 9. Reception at Linyanti--The court Herald--Sekeletu + obtains the Chieftainship from his Sister--Mpepe's Plot-- + Slave-trading Mambari--Their sudden Flight--Sekeletu narrowly + escapes Assassination--Execution of Mpepe--The Courts of Law-- + Mode of trying Offenses--Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to + read the Bible--The Disposition made of the Wives of a + deceased Chief--Makololo Women--They work but little--Employ + Serfs--Their Drink, Dress, and Ornaments--Public Religious + Services in the Kotla--Unfavorable Associations of the place-- + Native Doctors--Proposals to teach the Makololo to read-- + Sekeletu's Present--Reason for accepting it--Trading in Ivory-- + Accidental Fire--Presents for Sekeletu--Two Breeds of native + Cattle--Ornamenting the Cattle--The Women and the Looking- + glass--Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Mantles and for + Shields--Throwing the Spear. + + Chapter 10. The Fever--Its Symptoms--Remedies of the native + Doctors--Hospitality of Sekeletu and his People--One of their + Reasons for Polygamy--They cultivate largely--The Makalaka or + subject Tribes--Sebituane's Policy respecting them--Their + Affection for him--Products of the Soil--Instrument of + Culture--The Tribute--Distributed by the Chief--A warlike + Demonstration--Lechulatebe's Provocations--The Makololo + determine to punish him--The Bechuanas--Meaning of the Term-- + Three Divisions of the great Family of South Africans. + + Chapter 11. Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke--Level + Country--Ant-hills--Wild Date-trees--Appearance of our + Attendants on the March--The Chief's Guard--They attempt to + ride on Ox-back--Vast Herds of the new Antelopes, Leches, and + Nakongs--The native way of hunting them--Reception at the + Villages--Presents of Beer and Milk--Eating with the Hand--The + Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter--Social Mode of Eating-- + The Sugar-cane--Sekeletu's novel Test of Character-- + Cleanliness of Makololo Huts--Their Construction and + Appearance--The Beds--Cross the Leeambye--Aspect of this part + of the Country--The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the + South--Hunting on foot--An Eland. + + Chapter 12. Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye--Beautiful + Islands--Winter Landscape--Industry and Skill of the Banyeti-- + Rapids--Falls of Gonye--Tradition--Annual Inundations-- + Fertility of the great Barotse Valley--Execution of two + Conspirators--The Slave-dealer's Stockade--Naliele, the + Capital, built on an artificial Mound--Santuru, a great + Hunter--The Barotse Method of commemorating any remarkable + Event--Better Treatment of Women--More religious Feeling-- + Belief in a future State, and in the Existence of spiritual + Beings--Gardens--Fish, Fruit, and Game--Proceed to the Limits + of the Barotse Country--Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald-- + The River and Vicinity--Hippopotamus-hunters--No healthy + Location--Determine to go to Loanda--Buffaloes, Elands, and + Lions above Libonta--Interview with the Mambari--Two Arabs + from Zanzibar--Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English + --Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu--Joy of the People at the + first Visit of their Chief--Return to Sesheke--Heathenism. + + Chapter 13. Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey--A Picho-- + Twenty-seven Men appointed to accompany me to the West-- + Eagerness of the Makololo for direct Trade with the Coast-- + Effects of Fever--A Makololo Question--The lost Journal-- + Reflections--The Outfit for the Journey--11th November, 1853, + leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe--Dangerous + Hippopotami--Banks of Chobe--Trees--The Course of the River-- + The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the + Leeambye--Anecdote--Ascend the Leeambye--A Makalaka Mother + defies the Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke-- + Punishment of Thieves--Observance of the new Moon--Public + Addresses at Sesheke--Attention of the People--Results-- + Proceed up the River--The Fruit which yields 'Nux vomica'-- + Other Fruits--The Rapids--Birds--Fish--Hippopotami and their + Young. + + Chapter 14. Increasing Beauty of the Country--Mode of spending + the Day--The People and the Falls of Gonye--A Makololo Foray-- + A second prevented, and Captives delivered up--Politeness and + Liberality of the People--The Rains--Present of Oxen--The + fugitive Barotse--Sekobinyane's Misgovernment--Bee-eaters and + other Birds--Fresh-water Sponges--Current--Death from a Lion's + Bite at Libonta--Continued Kindness--Arrangements for spending + the Night during the Journey--Cooking and Washing--Abundance + of animal Life--Different Species of Birds--Water-fowl-- + Egyptian Geese--Alligators--Narrow Escape of one of my Men-- + Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator--Large Game-- + The most vulnerable Spot--Gun Medicine--A Sunday--Birds of + Song--Depravity; its Treatment--Wild Fruits--Green Pigeons-- + Shoals of Fish--Hippopotami. + + Chapter 15. Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding + the Captives--Navigation of the Leeambye--Capabilities of this + District--The Leeba--Flowers and Bees--Buffalo-hunt--Field for + a Botanist--Young Alligators; their savage Nature--Suspicion + of the Balonda--Sekelenke's Present--A Man and his two Wives-- + Hunters--Message from Manenko, a female Chief--Mambari + Traders--A Dream--Sheakondo and his People--Teeth-filing-- + Desire for Butter--Interview with Nyamoana, another female + Chief--Court Etiquette--Hair versus Wool--Increase of + Superstition--Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and Husband-- + Mode of Salutation--Anklets--Embassy, with a Present from + Masiko--Roast Beef--Manioc--Magic Lantern--Manenko an + accomplished Scold: compels us to wait--Unsuccessful Zebra- + hunt. + + Chapter 16. Nyamoana's Present--Charms--Manenko's pedestrian + Powers--An Idol--Balonda Arms--Rain--Hunger--Palisades--Dense + Forests--Artificial Beehives--Mushrooms--Villagers lend the + Roofs of their Houses--Divination and Idols--Manenko's Whims-- + A night Alarm--Shinte's Messengers and Present--The proper + Way to approach a Village--A Merman--Enter Shinte's Town: its + Appearance--Meet two half-caste Slave-traders--The Makololo + scorn them--The Balonda real Negroes--Grand Reception from + Shinte--His Kotla--Ceremony of Introduction--The Orators-- + Women--Musicians and Musical Instruments--A disagreeable + Request--Private Interviews with Shinte--Give him an Ox-- + Fertility of Soil--Manenko's new Hut--Conversation with + Shinte--Kolimbota's Proposal--Balonda's Punctiliousness-- + Selling Children--Kidnapping--Shinte's Offer of a Slave--Magic + Lantern--Alarm of Women--Delay--Sambanza returns intoxicated-- + The last and greatest Proof of Shinte's Friendship. + + Chapter 17. Leave Shinte--Manioc Gardens--Mode of preparing + the poisonous kind--Its general Use--Presents of Food-- + Punctiliousness of the Balonda--Their Idols and Superstition-- + Dress of the Balonda--Villages beyond Lonaje--Cazembe--Our + Guides and the Makololo--Night Rains--Inquiries for English + cotton Goods--Intemese's Fiction--Visit from an old Man-- + Theft--Industry of our Guide--Loss of Pontoon--Plains covered + with Water--Affection of the Balonda for their Mothers--A + Night on an Island--The Grass on the Plains--Source of the + Rivers--Loan of the Roofs of Huts--A Halt--Fertility of the + Country through which the Lokalueje flows--Omnivorous Fish-- + Natives' Mode of catching them--The Village of a Half-brother + of Katema, his Speech and Present--Our Guide's Perversity-- + Mozenkwa's pleasant Home and Family--Clear Water of the + flooded Rivers--A Messenger from Katema--Quendende's Village: + his Kindness--Crop of Wool--Meet People from the Town of + Matiamvo--Fireside Talk--Matiamvo's Character and Conduct-- + Presentation at Katema's Court: his Present, good Sense, and + Appearance--Interview on the following Day--Cattle--A Feast + and a Makololo Dance--Arrest of a Fugitive--Dignified old + Courtier--Katema's lax Government--Cold Wind from the North-- + Canaries and other singing Birds--Spiders, their Nests and + Webs--Lake Dilolo--Tradition--Sagacity of Ants. + + Chapter 18. The Watershed between the northern and southern + Rivers--A deep Valley--Rustic Bridge--Fountains on the Slopes + of the Valleys--Village of Kabinje--Good Effects of the Belief + in the Power of Charms--Demand for Gunpowder and English + Calico--The Kasai--Vexatious Trick--Want of Food--No Game-- + Katende's unreasonable Demand--A grave Offense--Toll-bridge + Keeper--Greedy Guides--Flooded Valleys--Swim the Nyuana Loke-- + Prompt Kindness of my Men--Makololo Remarks on the rich + uncultivated Valleys--Difference in the Color of Africans-- + Reach a Village of the Chiboque--The Head Man's impudent + Message--Surrounds our Encampment with his Warriors--The + Pretense--Their Demand--Prospect of a Fight--Way in which it + was averted--Change our Path--Summer--Fever--Beehives and the + Honey-guide--Instinct of Trees--Climbers--The Ox Sinbad-- + Absence of Thorns in the Forests--Plant peculiar to a forsaken + Garden--Bad Guides--Insubordination suppressed--Beset by + Enemies--A Robber Party--More Troubles--Detained by Ionga + Panza--His Village--Annoyed by Bangala Traders--My Men + discouraged--Their Determination and Precaution. + + Chapter 19. Guides prepaid--Bark Canoes--Deserted by Guides-- + Mistakes respecting the Coanza--Feelings of freed Slaves-- + Gardens and Villages--Native Traders--A Grave--Valley of the + Quango--Bamboo--White Larvae used as Food--Bashinje Insolence-- + A posing Question--The Chief Sansawe--His Hostility--Pass him + safely--The River Quango--Chief's mode of dressing his Hair-- + Opposition--Opportune Aid by Cypriano--His generous + Hospitality--Ability of Half-castes to read and write--Books + and Images--Marauding Party burned in the Grass--Arrive at + Cassange--A good Supper--Kindness of Captain Neves-- + Portuguese Curiosity and Questions--Anniversary of the + Resurrection--No Prejudice against Color--Country around + Cassange--Sell Sekeletu's Ivory--Makololo's Surprise at the + high Price obtained--Proposal to return Home, and Reasons-- + Soldier-guide--Hill Kasala--Tala Mungongo, Village of-- + Civility of Basongo--True Negroes--A Field of Wheat--Carriers-- + Sleeping-places--Fever--Enter District of Ambaca--Good Fruits + of Jesuit Teaching--The 'Tampan'; its Bite--Universal + Hospitality of the Portuguese--A Tale of the Mambari-- + Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery--District of Golungo + Alto--Want of good Roads--Fertility--Forests of gigantic + Timber--Native Carpenters--Coffee Estate--Sterility of Country + near the Coast--Mosquitoes--Fears of the Makololo--Welcome by + Mr. Gabriel to Loanda. + + Chapter 20. Continued Sickness--Kindness of the Bishop of + Angola and her Majesty's Officers--Mr. Gabriel's unwearied + Hospitality--Serious Deportment of the Makololo--They visit + Ships of War--Politeness of the Officers and Men--The Makololo + attend Mass in the Cathedral--Their Remarks--Find Employment + in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal--Their superior + Judgment respecting Goods--Beneficial Influence of the Bishop + of Angola--The City of St. Paul de Loanda--The Harbor--Custom- + house--No English Merchants--Sincerity of the Portuguese + Government in suppressing the Slave-trade--Convict Soldiers-- + Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu--Outfit--Leave + Loanda 20th September, 1854--Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far + as Icollo i Bengo--Sugar Manufactory--Geology of this part of + the Country--Women spinning Cotton--Its Price--Native Weavers-- + Market-places--Cazengo; its Coffee Plantations--South + American Trees--Ruins of Iron Foundry--Native Miners--The + Banks of the Lucalla--Cottages with Stages--Tobacco-plants-- + Town of Massangano--Sugar and Rice--Superior District for + Cotton--Portuguese Merchants and foreign Enterprise--Ruins-- + The Fort and its ancient Guns--Former Importance of + Massangano--Fires--The Tribe Kisama--Peculiar Variety of + Domestic Fowl--Coffee Plantations--Return to Golungo Alto-- + Self-complacency of the Makololo--Fever--Jaundice--Insanity. + + Chapter 21. Visit a deserted Convent--Favorable Report of + Jesuits and their Teaching--Gradations of native Society-- + Punishment of Thieves--Palm-toddy; its baneful Effects-- + Freemasons--Marriages and Funerals--Litigation--Mr. Canto's + Illness--Bad Behavior of his Slaves--An Entertainment--Ideas + on Free Labor--Loss of American Cotton-seed--Abundance of + Cotton in the country--Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse--Eclipse + of the Sun--Insects which distill Water--Experiments with + them--Proceed to Ambaca--Sickly Season--Office of Commandant-- + Punishment of official Delinquents--Present from Mr. Schut of + Loanda--Visit Pungo Andongo--Its good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, + etc.--The Fort and columnar Rocks--The Queen of Jinga-- + Salubrity of Pungo Andongo--Price of a Slave--A Merchant- + prince--His Hospitality--Hear of the Loss of my Papers in + "Forerunner"--Narrow Escape from an Alligator--Ancient Burial- + places--Neglect of Agriculture in Angola--Manioc the staple + Product--Its Cheapness--Sickness--Friendly Visit from a + colored Priest--The Prince of Congo--No Priests in the + Interior of Angola. + + Chapter 22. Leave Pungo Andongo--Extent of Portuguese Power-- + Meet Traders and Carriers--Red Ants; their fierce Attack; + Usefulness; Numbers--Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo-- + Fruit-trees in the Valley of Cassange--Edible Muscle--Birds-- + Cassange Village--Quinine and Cathory--Sickness of Captain + Neves' Infant--A Diviner thrashed--Death of the Child-- + Mourning--Loss of Life from the Ordeal--Wide-spread + Superstitions--The Chieftainship--Charms--Receive Copies of + the "Times"--Trading Pombeiros--Present for Matiamvo--Fever + after westerly Winds--Capabilities of Angola for producing the + raw Materials of English Manufacture--Trading Parties with + Ivory--More Fever--A Hyaena's Choice--Makololo Opinion of the + Portuguese--Cypriano's Debt--A Funeral--Dread of disembodied + Spirits--Beautiful Morning Scenes--Crossing the Quango-- + Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola"--Fashions of the + Bashinje--Approach the Village of Sansawe--His Idea of + Dignity--The Pombeiros' Present--Long Detention--A Blow on the + Beard--Attacked in a Forest--Sudden Conversion of a fighting + Chief to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver--No Blood + shed in consequence--Rate of Traveling--Slave Women--Way of + addressing Slaves--Their thievish Propensities--Feeders of the + Congo or Zaire--Obliged to refuse Presents--Cross the Loajima-- + Appearance of People; Hair Fashions. + + Chapter 23. Make a Detour southward--Peculiarities of the + Inhabitants--Scarcity of Animals--Forests--Geological + Structure of the Country--Abundance and Cheapness of Food near + the Chihombo--A Slave lost--The Makololo Opinion of + Slaveholders--Funeral Obsequies in Cabango--Send a Sketch of + the Country to Mr. Gabriel--Native Information respecting the + Kasai and Quango--The Trade with Luba--Drainage of Londa-- + Report of Matiamvo's Country and Government--Senhor Faria's + Present to a Chief--The Balonda Mode of spending Time-- + Faithless Guide--Makololo lament the Ignorance of the Balonda-- + Eagerness of the Villagers for Trade--Civility of a Female + Chief--The Chief Bango and his People--Refuse to eat Beef-- + Ambition of Africans to have a Village--Winters in the + Interior--Spring at Kolobeng--White Ants: "Never could desire + to eat any thing better"--Young Herbage and Animals--Valley of + the Loembwe--The white Man a Hobgoblin--Specimen of + Quarreling--Eager Desire for Calico--Want of Clothing at + Kawawa's--Funeral Observances--Agreeable Intercourse with + Kawawa--His impudent Demand--Unpleasant Parting--Kawawa tries + to prevent our crossing the River Kasai--Stratagem. + + Chapter 24. Level Plains--Vultures and other Birds--Diversity + of Color in Flowers of the same Species--The Sundew--Twenty- + seventh Attack of Fever--A River which flows in opposite + Directions--Lake Dilolo the Watershed between the Atlantic and + Indian Oceans--Position of Rocks--Sir Roderick Murchison's + Explanation--Characteristics of the Rainy Season in connection + with the Floods of the Zambesi and the Nile--Probable Reason + of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North of the + Equator--Arab Reports of Region east of Londa--Probable + Watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile--Lake Dilolo--Reach + Katema's Town: his renewed Hospitality; desire to appear like + a White Man; ludicrous Departure--Jackdaws--Ford southern + Branch of Lake Dilolo--Small Fish--Project for a Makololo + Village near the Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye-- + Hearty Welcome from Shinte--Kolimbota's Wound--Plant-seeds and + Fruit-trees brought from Angola--Masiko and Limboa's Quarrel-- + Nyamoana now a Widow--Purchase Canoes and descend the Leeba-- + Herds of wild Animals on its Banks--Unsuccessful Buffalo- + hunt--Frogs--Sinbad and the Tsetse--Dispatch a Message to + Manenko--Arrival of her Husband Sambanza--The Ceremony called + Kasendi--Unexpected Fee for performing a surgical Operation-- + Social Condition of the Tribes--Desertion of Mboenga-- + Stratagem of Mambowe Hunters--Water-turtles--Charged by a + Buffalo--Reception from the People of Libonta--Explain the + Causes of our long Delay--Pitsane's Speech--Thanksgiving + Services--Appearance of my "Braves"--Wonderful Kindness of the + People. + + Chapter 25. Colony of Birds called Linkololo--The Village of + Chitlane--Murder of Mpololo's Daughter--Execution of the + Murderer and his Wife--My Companions find that their Wives + have married other Husbands--Sunday--A Party from Masiko-- + Freedom of Speech--Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus--Gonye-- + Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter--Murky Atmosphere-- + Surprising Amount of organic Life--Hornets--The Packages + forwarded by Mr. Moffat--Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the + Matebele who brought them--Convey the Goods to an Island and + build a Hut over them--Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had + recognized the true Form of African Continent--Arrival at + Linyanti--A grand Picho--Shrewd Inquiry--Sekeletu in his + Uniform--A Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory--Mr. + Gabriel's Kindness to them--Difficulties in Trading--Two + Makololo Forays during our Absence--Report of the Country to + the N.E.--Death of influential Men--The Makololo desire to be + nearer the Market--Opinions upon a Change of Residence-- + Climate of Barotse Valley--Diseases--Author's Fevers not a + fair Criterion in the Matter--The Interior an inviting Field + for the Philanthropist--Consultations about a Path to the East + Coast--Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi--Wait for + the Rainy Season--Native way of spending Time during the + period of greatest Heat--Favorable Opening for Missionary + Enterprise--Ben Habib wishes to marry--A Maiden's Choice-- + Sekeletu's Hospitality--Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria-- + Conversations with Makololo--Their moral Character and + Conduct--Sekeletu wishes to purchase a Sugar-mill, etc.--The + Donkeys--Influence among the Natives--"Food fit for a Chief"-- + Parting Words of Mamire--Motibe's Excuses. + + Chapter 26. Departure from Linyanti--A Thunder-storm--An Act + of genuine Kindness--Fitted out a second time by the Makololo-- + Sail down the Leeambye--Sekote's Kotla and human Skulls; his + Grave adorned with Elephants' Tusks--Victoria Falls--Native + Names--Columns of Vapor--Gigantic Crack--Wear of the Rocks-- + Shrines of the Barimo--"The Pestle of the Gods"--Second Visit + to the Falls--Island Garden--Store-house Island--Native + Diviners--A European Diviner--Makololo Foray--Marauder to be + fined--Mambari--Makololo wish to stop Mambari Slave-trading-- + Part with Sekeletu--Night Traveling--River Lekone--Ancient + fresh-water Lakes--Formation of Lake Ngami--Native Traditions-- + Drainage of the Great Valley--Native Reports of the Country + to the North--Maps--Moyara's Village--Savage Customs of the + Batoka--A Chain of Trading Stations--Remedy against Tsetse-- + "The Well of Joy"--First Traces of Trade with Europeans-- + Knocking out the front Teeth--Facetious Explanation-- + Degradation of the Batoka--Description of the Traveling Party-- + Cross the Unguesi--Geological Formation--Ruins of a large + Town--Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola-- + Abundance of Fruit. + + Chapter 27. Low Hills--Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism-- + The Plasterer and its Chloroform--White Ants; their + Usefulness--Mutokwane-smoking; its Effects--Border Territory-- + Healthy Table-lands--Geological Formation--Cicadae--Trees-- + Flowers--River Kalomo--Physical Conformation of Country-- + Ridges, sanatoria--A wounded Buffalo assisted--Buffalo-bird-- + Rhinoceros-bird--Leaders of Herds--The Honey-guide--The White + Mountain--Mozuma River--Sebituane's old Home--Hostile Village-- + Prophetic Phrensy--Food of the Elephant--Ant-hills--Friendly + Batoka--Clothing despised--Method of Salutation--Wild Fruits-- + The Captive released--Longings for Peace--Pingola's Conquests-- + The Village of Monze--Aspect of the Country--Visit from the + Chief Monze and his Wife--Central healthy Locations--Friendly + Feelings of the People in reference to a white Resident-- + Fertility of the Soil--Bashukulompo Mode of dressing their + Hair--Gratitude of the Prisoner we released--Kindness and + Remarks of Monze's Sister--Dip of the Rocks--Vegetation-- + Generosity of the Inhabitants--Their Anxiety for Medicine-- + Hooping-cough--Birds and Rain. + + Chapter 28. Beautiful Valley--Buffalo--My young Men kill two + Elephants--The Hunt--Mode of measuring Height of live + Elephants--Wild Animals smaller here than in the South, though + their Food is more abundant--The Elephant a dainty Feeder-- + Semalembue--His Presents--Joy in prospect of living in Peace-- + Trade--His People's way of wearing their Hair--Their Mode of + Salutation--Old Encampment--Sebituane's former Residence--Ford + of Kafue--Hippopotami--Hills and Villages--Geological + Formation--Prodigious Quantities of large Game--Their + Tameness--Rains--Less Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda-- + Reason--Charge from an Elephant--Vast Amount of animal Life on + the Zambesi--Water of River discolored--An Island with + Buffaloes and Men on it--Native Devices for killing Game-- + Tsetse now in Country--Agricultural Industry--An Albino + murdered by his Mother--"Guilty of Tlolo"--Women who make + their Mouths "like those of Ducks"--First Symptom of the + Slave-trade on this side--Selole's Hostility--An armed Party + hoaxed--An Italian Marauder slain--Elephant's Tenacity of + Life--A Word to young Sportsmen--Mr. Oswell's Adventure with + an Elephant; narrow Escape--Mburuma's Village--Suspicious + Conduct of his People--Guides attempt to detain us--The + Village and People of Ma Mburuma--Character our Guides give of + us. + + Chapter 29. Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi--Hostile + Appearances--Ruins of a Church--Turmoil of Spirit--Cross the + River--Friendly Parting--Ruins of stone Houses--The Situation + of Zumbo for Commerce--Pleasant Gardens--Dr. Lacerda's Visit + to Cazembe--Pereira's Statement--Unsuccessful Attempt to + establish Trade with the People of Cazembe--One of my Men + tossed by a Buffalo--Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on--Hear + of the Portuguese and native War--Holms and Terraces on the + Banks of a River--Dancing for Corn--Beautiful Country-- + Mpende's Hostility--Incantations--A Fight anticipated--Courage + and Remarks of my Men--Visit from two old Councilors of + Mpende--Their Opinion of the English--Mpende concludes not to + fight us--His subsequent Friendship--Aids us to cross the + River--The Country--Sweet Potatoes--Bakwain Theory of Rain + confirmed--Thunder without Clouds--Desertion of one of my Men-- + Other Natives' Ideas of the English--Dalama (gold)-- + Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers--Meet native Traders with + American Calico--Game-laws--Elephant Medicine--Salt from the + Sand--Fertility of Soil--Spotted Hyaena--Liberality and + Politeness of the People--Presents--A stingy white Trader-- + Natives' Remarks about him--Effect on their Minds--Rain and + Wind now from an opposite Direction--Scarcity of Fuel--Trees + for Boat-building--Boroma--Freshets--Leave the River--Chicova, + its Geological Features--Small Rapid near Tete--Loquacious + Guide--Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer--An old Man--No Silver-- + Gold-washing--No Cattle. + + Chapter 30. An Elephant-hunt--Offering and Prayers to the + Barimo for Success--Native Mode of Expression--Working of + Game-laws--A Feast--Laughing Hyaenas--Numerous Insects-- + Curious Notes of Birds of Song--Caterpillars--Butterflies-- + Silica--The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants--Rhinoceros + Adventure--Korwe Bird--Its Nest--A real Confinement--Honey and + Beeswax--Superstitious Reverence for the Lion--Slow Traveling-- + Grapes--The Ue--Monina's Village--Native Names--Government of + the Banyai--Electing a Chief--Youths instructed in "Bonyai"-- + Suspected of Falsehood--War-dance--Insanity and Disappearance + of Monahin--Fruitless Search--Monina's Sympathy--The Sand- + river Tangwe--The Ordeal Muavi: its Victims--An unreasonable + Man--"Woman's Rights"--Presents--Temperance--A winding Course + to shun Villages--Banyai Complexion and Hair--Mushrooms--The + Tubers, Mokuri--The Tree Shekabakadzi--Face of the Country-- + Pot-holes--Pursued by a Party of Natives--Unpleasant Threat-- + Aroused by a Company of Soldiers--A civilized Breakfast-- + Arrival at Tete. + + Chapter 31. Kind Reception from the Commandant--His Generosity + to my Men--The Village of Tete--The Population--Distilled + Spirits--The Fort--Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power-- + Former Trade--Slaves employed in Gold-washing--Slave-trade + drained the Country of Laborers--The Rebel Nyaude's Stockade-- + He burns Tete--Kisaka's Revolt and Ravages--Extensive Field of + Sugar-cane--The Commandant's good Reputation among the + Natives--Providential Guidance--Seams of Coal--A hot Spring-- + Picturesque Country--Water-carriage to the Coal-fields-- + Workmen's Wages--Exports--Price of Provisions--Visit Gold- + washings--The Process of obtaining the precious Metal--Coal + within a Gold-field--Present from Major Sicard--Natives raise + Wheat, etc.--Liberality of the Commandant--Geographical + Information from Senhor Candido--Earthquakes--Native Ideas of + a Supreme Being--Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of + Souls--Fondness for Display at Funerals--Trade Restrictions-- + Former Jesuit Establishment--State of Religion and Education + at Tete--Inundation of the Zambesi--Cotton cultivated--The + fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze--Detained by Fever--The + Kumbanzo Bark--Native Medicines--Iron, its Quality--Hear of + Famine at Kilimane--Death of a Portuguese Lady--The Funeral-- + Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese. + + Chapter 32. Leave Tete and proceed down the River--Pass the + Stockade of Bonga--Gorge of Lupata--"Spine of the World"-- + Width of River--Islands--War Drum at Shiramba--Canoe + Navigation--Reach Senna--Its ruinous State--Landeens levy + Fines upon the Inhabitants--Cowardice of native Militia--State + of the Revenue--No direct Trade with Portugal--Attempts to + revive the Trade of Eastern Africa--Country round Senna-- + Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station--Manica, the best Gold Region in + Eastern Africa--Boat-building at Senna--Our Departure--Capture + of a Rebel Stockade--Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the + Confluence of the Shire--Landeen Opinion of the Whites-- + Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker--His Opinion + respecting the Navigation of the River from this to the Ocean-- + Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the same subject--Fever, its + Effects--Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at + Kilimane--Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh--Joy + imbittered--Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc.-- + On developing Resources of the Interior--Desirableness of + Missionary Societies selecting healthy Stations--Arrangements + on leaving my Men--Retrospect--Probable Influence of the + Discoveries on Slavery--Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free + Labor--Commercial Stations--Development of the Resources of + Africa a Work of Time--Site of Kilimane--Unhealthiness--Death + of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever--The Captain saved by + Quinine--Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic"--Anxiety of one of my + Men to go to England--Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship-- + Sekwebu's Alarm--Sail for Mauritius--Sekwebu on board; he + becomes insane; drowns himself--Kindness of Major-General C. + M. Hay--Escape Shipwreck--Reach Home. + + Appendix.--Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions. + + Appendix.--Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, + February, 1858. + + Appendix.--Notes to etext. + +-------------------------------------------------- + +Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa. + +-------------------------------------------------- + + + + +Introduction. + + +Personal Sketch--Highland Ancestors--Family Traditions--Grandfather +removes to the Lowlands--Parents--Early Labors and Efforts +--Evening School--Love of Reading--Religious Impressions--Medical +Education--Youthful Travels--Geology--Mental Discipline--Study +in Glasgow--London Missionary Society--Native Village--Medical +Diploma--Theological Studies--Departure for Africa--No Claim to Literary +Accomplishments. + + + +My own inclination would lead me to say as little as possible about +myself; but several friends, in whose judgment I have confidence, have +suggested that, as the reader likes to know something about the author, +a short account of his origin and early life would lend additional +interest to this book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism; and, +if an apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in the fact +that it is not very long, and contains only one incident of which I have +reason to be proud. + +Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fighting for the +old line of kings; and our grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, +where my father was born. It is one of that cluster of the Hebrides thus +alluded to by Walter Scott: + + "And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, + And all the group of islets gay + That guard famed Staffa round."* + + * Lord of the Isles, canto 4. + +Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the traditionary +legends which that great writer has since made use of in the "Tales of a +Grandfather" and other works. As a boy I remember listening to him with +delight, for his memory was stored with a never-ending stock of stories, +many of which were wonderfully like those I have since heard while +sitting by the African evening fires. Our grandmother, too, used to +sing Gaelic songs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed by +captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the Turks. + +Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his ancestors for +six generations of the family before him; and the only point of the +tradition I feel proud of is this: One of these poor hardy islanders +was renowned in the district for great wisdom and prudence; and it is +related that, when he was on his death-bed, he called all his children +around him and said, "Now, in my lifetime, I have searched most +carefully through all the traditions I could find of our family, and +I never could discover that there was a dishonest man among our +forefathers. If, therefore, any of you or any of your children should +take to dishonest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood: it +does not belong to you. I leave this precept with you: Be honest." If, +therefore, in the following pages I fall into any errors, I hope they +will be dealt with as honest mistakes, and not as indicating that I have +forgotten our ancient motto. This event took place at a time when the +Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the Cape Caffres, +and any one, it was said, could escape punishment for cattle-stealing by +presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain. Our ancestors were +Roman Catholics; they were made Protestants by the laird coming round +with a man having a yellow staff, which would seem to have attracted +more attention than his teaching, for the new religion went long +afterward, perhaps it does so still, by the name of "the religion of the +yellow stick". + +Finding his farm in Ulva insufficient to support a numerous family, my +grandfather removed to Blantyre Works, a large cotton manufactory on +the beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow; and his sons, having had the best +education the Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by +the proprietors, Monteith and Co. He himself, highly esteemed for his +unflinching honesty, was employed in the conveyance of large sums of +money from Glasgow to the works, and in old age was, according to the +custom of that company, pensioned off, so as to spend his declining +years in ease and comfort. + +Our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the last French +war, either as soldiers or sailors; but my father remained at home, and, +though too conscientious ever to become rich as a small tea-dealer, by +his kindliness of manner and winning ways he made the heart-strings +of his children twine around him as firmly as if he had possessed, and +could have bestowed upon them, every worldly advantage. He reared +his children in connection with the Kirk of Scotland--a religious +establishment which has been an incalculable blessing to that +country--but he afterward left it, and during the last twenty years of +his life held the office of deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, +and deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me, from +my infancy, with a continuously consistent pious example, such as that +ideal of which is so beautifully and truthfully portrayed in Burns's +"Cottar's Saturday Night". He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope +of that mercy which we all expect through the death of our Lord and +Savior. I was at the time on my way below Zumbo, expecting no greater +pleasure in this country than sitting by our cottage fire and telling +him my travels. I revere his memory. + +The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture so often seen +among the Scottish poor--that of the anxious housewife striving to +make both ends meet. At the age of ten I was put into the factory as a +"piecer", to aid by my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of +my first week's wages I purchased Ruddiman's "Rudiments of Latin", +and pursued the study of that language for many years afterward, with +unabated ardor, at an evening school, which met between the hours of +eight and ten. The dictionary part of my labors was followed up till +twelve o'clock, or later, if my mother did not interfere by jumping up +and snatching the books out of my hands. I had to be back in the +factory by six in the morning, and continue my work, with intervals for +breakfast and dinner, till eight o'clock at night. I read in this way +many of the classical authors, and knew Virgil and Horace better at +sixteen than I do now. Our schoolmaster--happily still alive--was +supported in part by the company; he was attentive and kind, and so +moderate in his charges that all who wished for education might have +obtained it. Many availed themselves of the privilege; and some of my +schoolfellows now rank in positions far above what they appeared ever +likely to come to when in the village school. If such a system were +established in England, it would prove a never-ending blessing to the +poor. + +In reading, every thing that I could lay my hands on was devoured except +novels. Scientific works and books of travels were my especial delight; +though my father, believing, with many of his time who ought to have +known better, that the former were inimical to religion, would have +preferred to have seen me poring over the "Cloud of Witnesses", or +Boston's "Fourfold State". Our difference of opinion reached the point +of open rebellion on my part, and his last application of the rod was +on my refusal to peruse Wilberforce's "Practical Christianity". This +dislike to dry doctrinal reading, and to religious reading of every +sort, continued for years afterward; but having lighted on those +admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, "The Philosophy of Religion" and +"The Philosophy of a Future State", it was gratifying to find my own +ideas, that religion and science are not hostile, but friendly to each +other, fully proved and enforced. + +Great pains had been taken by my parents to instill the doctrines of +Christianity into my mind, and I had no difficulty in understanding the +theory of our free salvation by the atonement of our Savior, but it was +only about this time that I really began to feel the necessity and value +of a personal application of the provisions of that atonement to my own +case. The change was like what may be supposed would take place were it +possible to cure a case of "color blindness". The perfect freeness with +which the pardon of all our guilt is offered in God's book drew forth +feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought us with his blood, and +a sense of deep obligation to Him for his mercy has influenced, in some +small measure, my conduct ever since. But I shall not again refer to +the inner spiritual life which I believe then began, nor do I intend to +specify with any prominence the evangelistic labors to which the love of +Christ has since impelled me. This book will speak, not so much of what +has been done, as of what still remains to be performed, before the +Gospel can be said to be preached to all nations. + +In the glow of love which Christianity inspires, I soon resolved to +devote my life to the alleviation of human misery. Turning this idea +over in my mind, I felt that to be a pioneer of Christianity in China +might lead to the material benefit of some portions of that immense +empire; and therefore set myself to obtain a medical education, in order +to be qualified for that enterprise. + +In recognizing the plants pointed out in my first medical book, that +extraordinary old work on astrological medicine, Culpeper's "Herbal", +I had the guidance of a book on the plants of Lanarkshire, by Patrick. +Limited as my time was, I found opportunities to scour the whole +country-side, "collecting simples". Deep and anxious were my studies on +the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of astrology, and I +believe I got as far into that abyss of phantasies as my author said he +dared to lead me. It seemed perilous ground to tread on farther, for the +dark hint seemed to my youthful mind to loom toward "selling soul and +body to the devil", as the price of the unfathomable knowledge of the +stars. These excursions, often in company with brothers, one now in +Canada, and the other a clergyman in the United States, gratified my +intense love of nature; and though we generally returned so unmercifully +hungry and fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears, yet we +discovered, to us, so many new and interesting things, that he was +always as eager to join us next time as he was the last. + +On one of these exploring tours we entered a limestone quarry--long +before geology was so popular as it is now. It is impossible to describe +the delight and wonder with which I began to collect the shells found +in the carboniferous limestone which crops out in High Blantyre and +Cambuslang. A quarry-man, seeing a little boy so engaged, looked with +that pitying eye which the benevolent assume when viewing the insane. +Addressing him with, "How ever did these shells come into these rocks?" +"When God made the rocks, he made the shells in them," was the damping +reply. What a deal of trouble geologists might have saved themselves by +adopting the Turk-like philosophy of this Scotchman! + +My reading while at work was carried on by placing the book on a portion +of the spinning-jenny, so that I could catch sentence after sentence as +I passed at my work; I thus kept up a pretty constant study undisturbed +by the roar of the machinery. To this part of my education I owe my +present power of completely abstracting the mind from surrounding +noises, so as to read and write with perfect comfort amid the play +of children or near the dancing and songs of savages. The toil of +cotton-spinning, to which I was promoted in my nineteenth year, was +excessively severe on a slim, loose-jointed lad, but it was well paid +for; and it enabled me to support myself while attending medical and +Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity lectures of Dr. +Wardlaw, by working with my hands in summer. I never received a farthing +of aid from any one, and should have accomplished my project of going to +China as a medical missionary, in the course of time, by my own efforts, +had not some friends advised my joining the London Missionary Society +on account of its perfectly unsectarian character. It "sends neither +Episcopacy, nor Presbyterianism, nor Independency, but the Gospel of +Christ to the heathen." This exactly agreed with my ideas of what a +missionary society ought to do; but it was not without a pang that I +offered myself, for it was not quite agreeable to one accustomed to work +his own way to become in a measure dependent on others; and I would not +have been much put about though my offer had been rejected. + +Looking back now on that life of toil, I can not but feel thankful +that it formed such a material part of my early education; and, were +it possible, I should like to begin life over again in the same lowly +style, and to pass through the same hardy training. + +Time and travel have not effaced the feelings of respect I imbibed for +the humble inhabitants of my native village. For morality, honesty, +and intelligence, they were, in general, good specimens of the Scottish +poor. In a population of more than two thousand souls, we had, of +course, a variety of character. In addition to the common run of men, +there were some characters of sterling worth and ability, who exerted +a most beneficial influence on the children and youth of the place by +imparting gratuitous religious instruction.* Much intelligent interest +was felt by the villagers in all public questions, and they furnished a +proof that the possession of the means of education did not render them +an unsafe portion of the population. They felt kindly toward each other, +and much respected those of the neighboring gentry who, like the late +Lord Douglas, placed some confidence in their sense of honor. Through +the kindness of that nobleman, the poorest among us could stroll at +pleasure over the ancient domains of Bothwell, and other spots hallowed +by the venerable associations of which our school-books and local +traditions made us well aware; and few of us could view the dear +memorials of the past without feeling that these carefully kept +monuments were our own. The masses of the working-people of Scotland +have read history, and are no revolutionary levelers. They rejoice in +the memories of "Wallace and Bruce and a' the lave," who are still much +revered as the former champions of freedom. And while foreigners imagine +that we want the spirit only to overturn capitalists and aristocracy, we +are content to respect our laws till we can change them, and hate those +stupid revolutions which might sweep away time-honored institutions, +dear alike to rich and poor. + + * The reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of + these most worthy men--David Hogg, who addressed me on his + death-bed with the words, "Now, lad, make religion the every- + day business of your life, and not a thing of fits and starts; + for if you do not, temptation and other things will get the + better of you;" and Thomas Burke, an old Forty-second + Peninsula soldier, who has been incessant and never weary in + good works for about forty years. I was delighted to find him + still alive; men like these are an honor to their country and + profession. + +Having finished the medical curriculum and presented a thesis on a +subject which required the use of the stethoscope for its diagnosis, I +unwittingly procured for myself an examination rather more severe +and prolonged than usual among examining bodies. The reason was, that +between me and the examiners a slight difference of opinion existed as +to whether this instrument could do what was asserted. The wiser +plan would have been to have had no opinion of my own. However, I was +admitted a Licentiate of Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons. It was +with unfeigned delight I became a member of a profession which is +pre-eminently devoted to practical benevolence, and which with unwearied +energy pursues from age to age its endeavors to lessen human woe. + +But though now qualified for my original plan, the opium war was then +raging, and it was deemed inexpedient for me to proceed to China. I had +fondly hoped to have gained access to that then closed empire by means +of the healing art; but there being no prospect of an early peace with +the Chinese, and as another inviting field was opening out through the +labors of Mr. Moffat, I was induced to turn my thoughts to Africa; and +after a more extended course of theological training in England than +I had enjoyed in Glasgow, I embarked for Africa in 1840, and, after a +voyage of three months, reached Cape Town. Spending but a short time +there, I started for the interior by going round to Algoa Bay, and soon +proceeded inland, and have spent the following sixteen years of my +life, namely, from 1840 to 1856, in medical and missionary labors there +without cost to the inhabitants. + +As to those literary qualifications which are acquired by habits of +writing, and which are so important to an author, my African life has +not only not been favorable to the growth of such accomplishments, but +quite the reverse; it has made composition irksome and laborious. I +think I would rather cross the African continent again than undertake to +write another book. It is far easier to travel than to write about it. +I intended on going to Africa to continue my studies; but as I could not +brook the idea of simply entering into other men's labors made ready to +my hands, I entailed on myself, in addition to teaching, manual labor +in building and other handicraft work, which made me generally as much +exhausted and unfit for study in the evenings as ever I had been when +a cotton-spinner. The want of time for self-improvement was the only +source of regret that I experienced during my African career. The +reader, remembering this, will make allowances for the mere gropings for +light of a student who has the vanity to think himself "not yet too old +to learn". More precise information on several subjects has necessarily +been omitted in a popular work like the present; but I hope to give such +details to the scientific reader through some other channel. + + + + +Chapter 1. + +The Bakwain Country--Study of the Language--Native Ideas regarding +Comets--Mabotsa Station--A Lion Encounter--Virus of the Teeth of +Lions--Names of the Bechuana Tribes--Sechele--His Ancestors--Obtains +the Chieftainship--His Marriage and Government--The Kotla--First public +Religious Services--Sechele's Questions--He Learns to Read--Novel +mode for Converting his Tribe--Surprise at their Indifference-- +Polygamy--Baptism of Sechele--Opposition of the Natives--Purchase Land +at Chonuane--Relations with the People--Their Intelligence--Prolonged +Drought--Consequent Trials--Rain-medicine--God's Word blamed--Native +Reasoning--Rain-maker--Dispute between Rain Doctor and Medical +Doctor--The Hunting Hopo--Salt or animal Food a necessary of +Life--Duties of a Missionary. + + + +The general instructions I received from the Directors of the London +Missionary Society led me, as soon as I reached Kuruman or Lattakoo, +then, as it is now, their farthest inland station from the Cape, to turn +my attention to the north. Without waiting longer at Kuruman than was +necessary to recruit the oxen, which were pretty well tired by the long +journey from Algoa Bay, I proceeded, in company with another missionary, +to the Bakuena or Bakwain country, and found Sechele, with his tribe, +located at Shokuane. We shortly after retraced our steps to Kuruman; but +as the objects in view were by no means to be attained by a temporary +excursion of this sort, I determined to make a fresh start into the +interior as soon as possible. Accordingly, after resting three months at +Kuruman, which is a kind of head station in the country, I returned to +a spot about fifteen miles south of Shokuane, called Lepelole (now +Litubaruba). Here, in order to obtain an accurate knowledge of the +language, I cut myself off from all European society for about six +months, and gained by this ordeal an insight into the habits, ways of +thinking, laws, and language of that section of the Bechuanas called +Bakwains, which has proved of incalculable advantage in my intercourse +with them ever since. + +In this second journey to Lepelole--so called from a cavern of that +name--I began preparations for a settlement, by making a canal to +irrigate gardens, from a stream then flowing copiously, but now quite +dry. When these preparations were well advanced, I went northward to +visit the Bakaa and Bamangwato, and the Makalaka, living between 22 +Degrees and 23 Degrees south latitude. The Bakaa Mountains had been +visited before by a trader, who, with his people, all perished from +fever. In going round the northern part of these basaltic hills near +Letloche I was only ten days distant from the lower part of the Zouga, +which passed by the same name as Lake Ngami;* and I might then (in 1842) +have discovered that lake, had discovery alone been my object. Most part +of this journey beyond Shokuane was performed on foot, in consequence +of the draught oxen having become sick. Some of my companions who had +recently joined us, and did not know that I understood a little of their +speech, were overheard by me discussing my appearance and powers: "He +is not strong; he is quite slim, and only appears stout because he puts +himself into those bags (trowsers); he will soon knock up." This caused +my Highland blood to rise, and made me despise the fatigue of keeping +them all at the top of their speed for days together, and until I heard +them expressing proper opinions of my pedestrian powers. + + * Several words in the African languages begin with the ringing sound + heard in the end of the word "comING". If the reader puts an 'i' + to the beginning of the name of the lake, as Ingami, + and then sounds the 'i' as little as possible, he will have + the correct pronunciation. The Spanish n [ny] is employed + to denote this sound, and Ngami is spelt nyami--naka means a tusk, + nyaka a doctor. Every vowel is sounded in all native words, + and the emphasis in pronunciation is put upon the penultimate. + +Returning to Kuruman, in order to bring my luggage to our proposed +settlement, I was followed by the news that the tribe of Bakwains, +who had shown themselves so friendly toward me, had been driven from +Lepelole by the Barolongs, so that my prospects for the time of forming +a settlement there were at an end. One of those periodical outbreaks +of war, which seem to have occurred from time immemorial, for the +possession of cattle, had burst forth in the land, and had so changed +the relations of the tribes to each other, that I was obliged to set out +anew to look for a suitable locality for a mission station. + +In going north again, a comet blazed on our sight, exciting the +wonder of every tribe we visited. That of 1816 had been followed by an +irruption of the Matebele, the most cruel enemies the Bechuanas ever +knew, and this they thought might portend something as bad, or it might +only foreshadow the death of some great chief. On this subject of comets +I knew little more than they did themselves, but I had that confidence +in a kind, overruling Providence, which makes such a difference between +Christians and both the ancient and modern heathen. + +As some of the Bamangwato people had accompanied me to Kuruman, I was +obliged to restore them and their goods to their chief Sekomi. This made +a journey to the residence of that chief again necessary, and, for the +first time, I performed a distance of some hundred miles on ox-back. + +Returning toward Kuruman, I selected the beautiful valley of Mabotsa +(lat. 25d 14' south, long. 26d 30'?) as the site of a missionary +station, and thither I removed in 1843. Here an occurrence took place +concerning which I have frequently been questioned in England, and +which, but for the importunities of friends, I meant to have kept in +store to tell my children when in my dotage. The Bakatla of the village +Mabotsa were much troubled by lions, which leaped into the cattle-pens +by night, and destroyed their cows. They even attacked the herds in open +day. This was so unusual an occurrence that the people believed that +they were bewitched--"given," as they said, "into the power of the lions +by a neighboring tribe." They went once to attack the animals, but, +being rather a cowardly people compared to Bechuanas in general on such +occasions, they returned without killing any. + +It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed, the others +take the hint and leave that part of the country. So, the next time the +herds were attacked, I went with the people, in order to encourage them +to rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. +We found the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length, +and covered with trees. A circle of men was formed round it, and they +gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to each other. Being down +below on the plain with a native schoolmaster, named Mebalwe, a most +excellent man, I saw one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within +the now closed circle of men. Mebalwe fired at him before I could, and +the ball struck the rock on which the animal was sitting. He bit at +the spot struck, as a dog does at a stick or stone thrown at him; then +leaping away, broke through the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The +men were afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in +witchcraft. When the circle was re-formed, we saw two other lions in +it; but we were afraid to fire lest we should strike the men, and they +allowed the beasts to burst through also. If the Bakatla had acted +according to the custom of the country, they would have speared the +lions in their attempt to get out. Seeing we could not get them to kill +one of the lions, we bent our footsteps toward the village; in going +round the end of the hill, however, I saw one of the beasts sitting on +a piece of rock as before, but this time he had a little bush in front. +Being about thirty yards off, I took a good aim at his body through the +bush, and fired both barrels into it. The men then called out, "He is +shot, he is shot!" Others cried, "He has been shot by another man too; +let us go to him!" I did not see any one else shoot at him, but I saw +the lion's tail erected in anger behind the bush, and, turning to the +people, said, "Stop a little, till I load again." When in the act of +ramming down the bullets, I heard a shout. Starting, and looking half +round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon me. I was upon +a little height; he caught my shoulder as he sprang, and we both came to +the ground below together. Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook +me as a terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to +that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shake of the cat. +It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was no sense of pain nor +feeling of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. +It was like what patients partially under the influence of chloroform +describe, who see all the operation, but feel not the knife. This +singular condition was not the result of any mental process. The shake +annihilated fear, and allowed no sense of horror in looking round at the +beast. This peculiar state is probably produced in all animals killed +by the carnivora; and if so, is a merciful provision by our benevolent +Creator for lessening the pain of death. Turning round to relieve myself +of the weight, as he had one paw on the back of my head, I saw his eyes +directed to Mebalwe, who was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten +or fifteen yards. His gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels; the +lion immediately left me, and, attacking Mebalwe, bit his thigh. Another +man, whose life I had saved before, after he had been tossed by a +buffalo, attempted to spear the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He +left Mebalwe and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment the +bullets he had received took effect, and he fell down dead. The whole +was the work of a few moments, and must have been his paroxysms of +dying rage. In order to take out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the +following day made a huge bonfire over the carcass, which was declared +to be that of the largest lion they had ever seen. Besides crunching the +bone into splinters, he left eleven teeth wounds on the upper part of my +arm. + +A wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot wound; it is +generally followed by a great deal of sloughing and discharge, and pains +are felt in the part periodically ever afterward. I had on a tartan +jacket on the occasion, and I believe that it wiped off all the virus +from the teeth that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in this +affray have both suffered from the peculiar pains, while I have escaped +with only the inconvenience of a false joint in my limb. The man whose +shoulder was wounded showed me his wound actually burst forth afresh on +the same month of the following year. This curious point deserves the +attention of inquirers. + +The different Bechuana tribes are named after certain animals, showing +probably that in former times they were addicted to animal-worship like +the ancient Egyptians. The term Bakatla means "they of the monkey"; +Bakuena, "they of the alligator"; Batlapi, "they of the fish": each +tribe having a superstitious dread of the animal after which it is +called. They also use the word "bina", to dance, in reference to the +custom of thus naming themselves, so that, when you wish to ascertain +what tribe they belong to, you say, "What do you dance?" It would seem +as if that had been a part of the worship of old. A tribe never eats the +animal which is its namesake, using the term "ila", hate or dread, in +reference to killing it. We find traces of many ancient tribes in the +country in individual members of those now extinct, as the Batau, "they +of the lion"; the Banoga, "they of the serpent"; though no such tribes +now exist. The use of the personal pronoun they, Ba-Ma, Wa, Va or Ova, +Am-Ki, &c., prevails very extensively in the names of tribes in Africa. +A single individual is indicated by the terms Mo or Le. Thus Mokwain is +a single person of the Bakwain tribe, and Lekoa is a single white man or +Englishman--Makoa being Englishmen. + +I attached myself to the tribe called Bakuena or Bakwains, the chief of +which, named Sechele, was then living with his people at a place called +Shokuane. I was from the first struck by his intelligence, and by +the marked manner in which we both felt drawn to each other. As this +remarkable man has not only embraced Christianity, but expounds its +doctrines to his people, I will here give a brief sketch of his career. + +His great-grandfather Mochoasele was a great traveler, and the first +that ever told the Bakwains of the existence of white men. In his +father's lifetime two white travelers, whom I suppose to have been Dr. +Cowan and Captain Donovan, passed through the country (in 1808), and, +descending the River Limpopo, were, with their party, all cut off by +fever. The rain-makers there, fearing lest their wagons might drive away +the rain, ordered them to be thrown into the river. This is the true +account of the end of that expedition, as related to me by the son of +the chief at whose village they perished. He remembered, when a boy, +eating part of one of the horses, and said it tasted like zebra's flesh. +Thus they were not killed by the Bangwaketse, as reported, for they +passed the Bakwains all well. The Bakwains were then rich in cattle; and +as one of the many evidences of the desiccation of the country, streams +are pointed out where thousands and thousands of cattle formerly drank, +but in which water now never flows, and where a single herd could not +find fluid for its support. + +When Sechele was still a boy, his father, also called Mochoasele, was +murdered by his own people for taking to himself the wives of his +rich under-chiefs. The children being spared, their friends invited +Sebituane, the chief of the Makololo, who was then in those parts, to +reinstate them in the chieftainship. Sebituane surrounded the town +of the Bakwains by night; and just as it began to dawn, his herald +proclaimed in a loud voice that he had come to revenge the death of +Mochoasele. This was followed by Sebituane's people beating loudly on +their shields all round the town. The panic was tremendous, and the rush +like that from a theatre on fire, while the Makololo used their javelins +on the terrified Bakwains with a dexterity which they alone can employ. +Sebituane had given orders to his men to spare the sons of the chief; +and one of them, meeting Sechele, put him in ward by giving him such a +blow on the head with a club as to render him insensible. The usurper +was put to death; and Sechele, reinstated in his chieftainship, felt +much attached to Sebituane. The circumstances here noticed ultimately +led me, as will be seen by-and-by, into the new, well-watered country to +which this same Sebituane had preceded me by many years. + +Sechele married the daughters of three of his under-chiefs, who had, on +account of their blood relationship, stood by him in his adversity. This +is one of the modes adopted for cementing the allegiance of a tribe. The +government is patriarchal, each man being, by virtue of paternity, chief +of his own children. They build their huts around his, and the greater +the number of children, the more his importance increases. Hence +children are esteemed one of the greatest blessings, and are always +treated kindly. Near the centre of each circle of huts there is a spot +called a "kotla", with a fireplace; here they work, eat, or sit and +gossip over the news of the day. A poor man attaches himself to the +kotla of a rich one, and is considered a child of the latter. An +under-chief has a number of these circles around his; and the collection +of kotlas around the great one in the middle of the whole, that of the +principal chief, constitutes the town. The circle of huts immediately +around the kotla of the chief is composed of the huts of his wives and +those of his blood relations. He attaches the under-chiefs to himself +and his government by marrying, as Sechele did, their daughters, or +inducing his brothers to do so. They are fond of the relationship to +great families. If you meet a party of strangers, and the head man's +relationship to some uncle of a certain chief is not at once proclaimed +by his attendants, you may hear him whispering, "Tell him who I am." +This usually involves a counting on the fingers of a part of his +genealogical tree, and ends in the important announcement that the head +of the party is half-cousin to some well-known ruler. + +Sechele was thus seated in his chieftainship when I made his +acquaintance. On the first occasion in which I ever attempted to hold +a public religious service, he remarked that it was the custom of his +nation, when any new subject was brought before them, to put questions +on it; and he begged me to allow him to do the same in this case. On +expressing my entire willingness to answer his questions, he inquired if +my forefathers knew of a future judgment. I replied in the affirmative, +and began to describe the scene of the "great white throne, and Him who +shall sit on it, from whose face the heaven and earth shall flee away," +&c. He said, "You startle me: these words make all my bones to shake; I +have no more strength in me; but my forefathers were living at the same +time yours were, and how is it that they did not send them word about +these terrible things sooner? They all passed away into darkness +without knowing whither they were going." I got out of the difficulty +by explaining the geographical barriers in the North, and the gradual +spread of knowledge from the South, to which we first had access by +means of ships; and I expressed my belief that, as Christ had said, +the whole world would yet be enlightened by the Gospel. Pointing to the +great Kalahari desert, he said, "You never can cross that country to the +tribes beyond; it is utterly impossible even for us black men, except in +certain seasons, when more than the usual supply of rain falls, and +an extraordinary growth of watermelons follows. Even we who know the +country would certainly perish without them." Reasserting my belief +in the words of Christ, we parted; and it will be seen farther on that +Sechele himself assisted me in crossing that desert which had previously +proved an insurmountable barrier to so many adventurers. + +As soon as he had an opportunity of learning, he set himself to read +with such close application that, from being comparatively thin, the +effect of having been fond of the chase, he became quite corpulent from +want of exercise. Mr. Oswell gave him his first lesson in figures, and +he acquired the alphabet on the first day of my residence at Chonuane. +He was by no means an ordinary specimen of the people, for I never went +into the town but I was pressed to hear him read some chapters of the +Bible. Isaiah was a great favorite with him; and he was wont to use the +same phrase nearly which the professor of Greek at Glasgow, Sir D. +K. Sandford, once used respecting the Apostle Paul, when reading his +speeches in the Acts: "He was a fine fellow, that Paul!" "He was a fine +man, that Isaiah; he knew how to speak." Sechele invariably offered me +something to eat on every occasion of my visiting him. + +Seeing me anxious that his people should believe the words of Christ, he +once said, "Do you imagine these people will ever believe by your merely +talking to them? I can make them do nothing except by thrashing them; +and if you like, I shall call my head men, and with our litupa (whips of +rhinoceros hide) we will soon make them all believe together." The idea +of using entreaty and persuasion to subjects to become Christians--whose +opinion on no other matter would he condescend to ask--was especially +surprising to him. He considered that they ought only to be too happy to +embrace Christianity at his command. During the space of two years and +a half he continued to profess to his people his full conviction of the +truth of Christianity; and in all discussions on the subject he took +that side, acting at the same time in an upright manner in all the +relations of life. He felt the difficulties of his situation long before +I did, and often said, "Oh, I wish you had come to this country before +I became entangled in the meshes of our customs!" In fact, he could not +get rid of his superfluous wives, without appearing to be ungrateful to +their parents, who had done so much for him in his adversity. + +In the hope that others would be induced to join him in his attachment +to Christianity, he asked me to begin family worship with him in +his house. I did so; and by-and-by was surprised to hear how well he +conducted the prayer in his own simple and beautiful style, for he was +quite a master of his own language. At this time we were suffering from +the effects of a drought, which will be described further on, and none +except his family, whom he ordered to attend, came near his meeting. +"In former times," said he, "when a chief was fond of hunting, all +his people got dogs, and became fond of hunting too. If he was fond of +dancing or music, all showed a liking to these amusements too. If the +chief loved beer, they all rejoiced in strong drink. But in this case +it is different. I love the Word of God, and not one of my brethren will +join me." One reason why we had no volunteer hypocrites was the hunger +from drought, which was associated in their minds with the presence of +Christian instruction; and hypocrisy is not prone to profess a creed +which seems to insure an empty stomach. + +Sechele continued to make a consistent profession for about three years; +and perceiving at last some of the difficulties of his case, and also +feeling compassion for the poor women, who were by far the best of our +scholars, I had no desire that he should be in any hurry to make a +full profession by baptism, and putting away all his wives but one. His +principal wife, too, was about the most unlikely subject in the tribe +ever to become any thing else than an out-and-out greasy disciple of +the old school. She has since become greatly altered, I hear, for the +better; but again and again have I seen Sechele send her out of church +to put her gown on, and away she would go with her lips shot out, the +very picture of unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions. + +When he at last applied for baptism, I simply asked him how he, having +the Bible in his hand, and able to read it, thought he ought to act. He +went home, gave each of his superfluous wives new clothing, and all his +own goods, which they had been accustomed to keep in their huts for him, +and sent them to their parents with an intimation that he had no fault +to find with them, but that in parting with them he wished to follow +the will of God. On the day on which he and his children were baptized, +great numbers came to see the ceremony. Some thought, from a stupid +calumny circulated by enemies to Christianity in the south, that the +converts would be made to drink an infusion of "dead men's brains", +and were astonished to find that water only was used at baptism. Seeing +several of the old men actually in tears during the service, I asked +them afterward the cause of their weeping; they were crying to see their +father, as the Scotch remark over a case of suicide, "SO FAR LEFT TO +HIMSELF". They seemed to think that I had thrown the glamour over him, +and that he had become mine. Here commenced an opposition which we had +not previously experienced. All the friends of the divorced wives became +the opponents of our religion. The attendance at school and church +diminished to very few besides the chief's own family. They all treated +us still with respectful kindness, but to Sechele himself they said +things which, as he often remarked, had they ventured on in former +times, would have cost them their lives. It was trying, after all we had +done, to see our labors so little appreciated; but we had sown the good +seed, and have no doubt but it will yet spring up, though we may not +live to see the fruits. + +Leaving this sketch of the chief, I proceed to give an equally rapid one +of our dealing with his people, the Bakena, or Bakwains. A small piece +of land, sufficient for a garden, was purchased when we first went to +live with them, though that was scarcely necessary in a country where +the idea of buying land was quite new. It was expected that a request +for a suitable spot would have been made, and that we should have +proceeded to occupy it as any other member of the tribe would. But we +explained to them that we wished to avoid any cause of future dispute +when land had become more valuable; or when a foolish chief began to +reign, and we had erected large or expensive buildings, he might wish +to claim the whole. These reasons were considered satisfactory. About 5 +Pounds worth of goods were given for a piece of land, and an arrangement +was come to that a similar piece should be allotted to any other +missionary, at any other place to which the tribe might remove. The +particulars of the sale sounded strangely in the ears of the tribe, but +were nevertheless readily agreed to. + +In our relations with this people we were simply strangers exercising +no authority or control whatever. Our influence depended entirely on +persuasion; and having taught them by kind conversation as well as by +public instruction, I expected them to do what their own sense of right +and wrong dictated. We never wished them to do right merely because it +would be pleasing to us, nor thought ourselves to blame when they did +wrong, although we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect. +We saw that our teaching did good to the general mind of the people by +bringing new and better motives into play. Five instances are positively +known to me in which, by our influence on public opinion, war was +prevented; and where, in individual cases, we failed, the people did +no worse than they did before we came into the country. In general they +were slow, like all the African people hereafter to be described, in +coming to a decision on religious subjects; but in questions affecting +their worldly affairs they were keenly alive to their own interests. +They might be called stupid in matters which had not come within the +sphere of their observation, but in other things they showed more +intelligence than is to be met with in our own uneducated peasantry. +They are remarkably accurate in their knowledge of cattle, sheep, and +goats, knowing exactly the kind of pasturage suited to each; and +they select with great judgment the varieties of soil best suited to +different kinds of grain. They are also familiar with the habits of wild +animals, and in general are well up in the maxims which embody their +ideas of political wisdom. + +The place where we first settled with the Bakwains is called Chonuane, +and it happened to be visited, during the first year of our residence +there, by one of those droughts which occur from time to time in even +the most favored districts of Africa. + +The belief in the gift or power of RAIN-MAKING is one of the most +deeply-rooted articles of faith in this country. The chief Sechele was +himself a noted rain-doctor, and believed in it implicitly. He has often +assured me that he found it more difficult to give up his faith in that +than in any thing else which Christianity required him to abjure. I +pointed out to him that the only feasible way of watering the gardens +was to select some good, never-failing river, make a canal, and irrigate +the adjacent lands. This suggestion was immediately adopted, and soon +the whole tribe was on the move to the Kolobeng, a stream about forty +miles distant. The experiment succeeded admirably during the first +year. The Bakwains made the canal and dam in exchange for my labor in +assisting to build a square house for their chief. They also built their +own school under my superintendence. Our house at the River Kolobeng, +which gave a name to the settlement, was the third which I had reared +with my own hands. A native smith taught me to weld iron; and having +improved by scraps of information in that line from Mr. Moffat, and also +in carpentering and gardening, I was becoming handy at almost any trade, +besides doctoring and preaching; and as my wife could make candles, +soap, and clothes, we came nearly up to what may be considered as +indispensable in the accomplishments of a missionary family in Central +Africa, namely, the husband to be a jack-of-all-trades without doors, +and the wife a maid-of-all-work within. But in our second year again no +rain fell. In the third the same extraordinary drought followed. Indeed, +not ten inches of water fell during these two years, and the Kolobeng +ran dry; so many fish were killed that the hyaenas from the whole +country round collected to the feast, and were unable to finish the +putrid masses. A large old alligator, which had never been known to +commit any depredations, was found left high and dry in the mud among +the victims. The fourth year was equally unpropitious, the fall of rain +being insufficient to bring the grain to maturity. Nothing could be more +trying. We dug down in the bed of the river deeper and deeper as the +water receded, striving to get a little to keep the fruit-trees alive +for better times, but in vain. Needles lying out of doors for months did +not rust; and a mixture of sulphuric acid and water, used in a galvanic +battery, parted with all its water to the air, instead of imbibing more +from it, as it would have done in England. The leaves of indigenous +trees were all drooping, soft, and shriveled, though not dead; and those +of the mimosae were closed at midday, the same as they are at night. +In the midst of this dreary drought, it was wonderful to see those tiny +creatures, the ants, running about with their accustomed vivacity. I put +the bulb of a thermometer three inches under the soil, in the sun, at +midday, and found the mercury to stand at 132 Deg. to 134 Deg.; and if +certain kinds of beetles were placed on the surface, they ran about +a few seconds and expired. But this broiling heat only augmented the +activity of the long-legged black ants: they never tire; their organs of +motion seem endowed with the same power as is ascribed by physiologists +to the muscles of the human heart, by which that part of the frame never +becomes fatigued, and which may be imparted to all our bodily organs in +that higher sphere to which we fondly hope to rise. Where do these +ants get their moisture? Our house was built on a hard ferruginous +conglomerate, in order to be out of the way of the white ant, but they +came in despite the precaution; and not only were they, in this sultry +weather, able individually to moisten soil to the consistency of mortar +for the formation of galleries, which, in their way of working, is done +by night (so that they are screened from the observation of birds by day +in passing and repassing toward any vegetable matter they may wish to +devour), but, when their inner chambers were laid open, these were also +surprisingly humid. Yet there was no dew, and, the house being placed on +a rock, they could have no subterranean passage to the bed of the river, +which ran about three hundred yards below the hill. Can it be that they +have the power of combining the oxygen and hydrogen of their vegetable +food by vital force so as to form water?* + + * When we come to Angola, I shall describe an insect there + which distills several pints of water every night. + +Rain, however, would not fall. The Bakwains believed that I had bound +Sechele with some magic spell, and I received deputations, in the +evenings, of the old counselors, entreating me to allow him to make only +a few showers: "The corn will die if you refuse, and we shall become +scattered. Only let him make rain this once, and we shall all, men, +women, and children, come to the school, and sing and pray as long as +you please." It was in vain to protest that I wished Sechele to act just +according to his own ideas of what was right, as he found the law laid +down in the Bible, and it was distressing to appear hard-hearted to +them. The clouds often collected promisingly over us, and rolling +thunder seemed to portend refreshing showers, but next morning the +sun would rise in a clear, cloudless sky; indeed, even these lowering +appearances were less frequent by far than days of sunshine are in +London. + +The natives, finding it irksome to sit and wait helplessly until God +gives them rain from heaven, entertain the more comfortable idea that +they can help themselves by a variety of preparations, such as +charcoal made of burned bats, inspissated renal deposit of the mountain +cony--'Hyrax capensis'--(which, by the way, is used, in the form of +pills, as a good antispasmodic, under the name of "stone-sweat"*), the +internal parts of different animals--as jackals' livers, baboons' and +lions' hearts, and hairy calculi from the bowels of old cows--serpents' +skins and vertebrae, and every kind of tuber, bulb, root, and plant +to be found in the country. Although you disbelieve their efficacy +in charming the clouds to pour out their refreshing treasures, yet, +conscious that civility is useful every where, you kindly state that +you think they are mistaken as to their power. The rain-doctor selects a +particular bulbous root, pounds it, and administers a cold infusion to +a sheep, which in five minutes afterward expires in convulsions. Part of +the same bulb is converted into smoke, and ascends toward the sky; +rain follows in a day or two. The inference is obvious. Were we as much +harassed by droughts, the logic would be irresistible in England in +1857. + + * The name arises from its being always voided on one spot, + in the manner practiced by others of the rhinocerontine family; + and, by the action of the sun, it becomes a black, pitchy substance. + +As the Bakwains believed that there must be some connection between +the presence of "God's Word" in their town and these successive and +distressing droughts, they looked with no good will at the church bell, +but still they invariably treated us with kindness and respect. I am not +aware of ever having had an enemy in the tribe. The only avowed cause of +dislike was expressed by a very influential and sensible man, the uncle +of Sechele. "We like you as well as if you had been born among us; you +are the only white man we can become familiar with (thoaela); but we +wish you to give up that everlasting preaching and praying; we can not +become familiar with that at all. You see we never get rain, while those +tribes who never pray as we do obtain abundance." This was a fact; and +we often saw it raining on the hills ten miles off, while it would not +look at us "even with one eye". If the Prince of the power of the air +had no hand in scorching us up, I fear I often gave him the credit of +doing so. + +As for the rain-makers, they carried the sympathies of the people along +with them, and not without reason. With the following arguments they +were all acquainted, and in order to understand their force, we must +place ourselves in their position, and believe, as they do, that all +medicines act by a mysterious charm. The term for cure may be translated +"charm" ('alaha'). + +MEDICAL DOCTOR. Hail, friend! How very many medicines you have about you +this morning! Why, you have every medicine in the country here. + +RAIN DOCTOR. Very true, my friend; and I ought; for the whole country +needs the rain which I am making. + +M. D. So you really believe that you can command the clouds? I think +that can be done by God alone. + +R. D. We both believe the very same thing. It is God that makes the +rain, but I pray to him by means of these medicines, and, the rain +coming, of course it is then mine. It was I who made it for the Bakwains +for many years, when they were at Shokuane; through my wisdom, too, +their women became fat and shining. Ask them; they will tell you the +same as I do. + +M. D. But we are distinctly told in the parting words of our Savior that +we can pray to God acceptably in his name alone, and not by means of +medicines. + +R. D. Truly! but God told us differently. He made black men first, and +did not love us as he did the white men. He made you beautiful, and gave +you clothing, and guns, and gunpowder, and horses, and wagons, and many +other things about which we know nothing. But toward us he had no heart. +He gave us nothing except the assegai, and cattle, and rain-making; and +he did not give us hearts like yours. We never love each other. Other +tribes place medicines about our country to prevent the rain, so that we +may be dispersed by hunger, and go to them, and augment their power. We +must dissolve their charms by our medicines. God has given us one little +thing, which you know nothing of. He has given us the knowledge of +certain medicines by which we can make rain. WE do not despise those +things which you possess, though we are ignorant of them. We don't +understand your book, yet we don't despise it. YOU ought not to despise +our little knowledge, though you are ignorant of it. + +M. D. I don't despise what I am ignorant of; I only think you are +mistaken in saying that you have medicines which can influence the rain +at all. + +R. D. That's just the way people speak when they talk on a subject of +which they have no knowledge. When we first opened our eyes, we found +our forefathers making rain, and we follow in their footsteps. You, who +send to Kuruman for corn, and irrigate your garden, may do without rain; +WE can not manage in that way. If we had no rain, the cattle would have +no pasture, the cows give no milk, our children become lean and die, our +wives run away to other tribes who do make rain and have corn, and the +whole tribe become dispersed and lost; our fire would go out. + +M. D. I quite agree with you as to the value of the rain; but you can +not charm the clouds by medicines. You wait till you see the clouds +come, then you use your medicines, and take the credit which belongs to +God only. + +R. D. I use my medicines, and you employ yours; we are both doctors, and +doctors are not deceivers. You give a patient medicine. Sometimes God is +pleased to heal him by means of your medicine; sometimes not--he dies. +When he is cured, you take the credit of what God does. I do the same. +Sometimes God grants us rain, sometimes not. When he does, we take the +credit of the charm. When a patient dies, you don't give up trust in +your medicine, neither do I when rain fails. If you wish me to leave off +my medicines, why continue your own? + +M. D. I give medicine to living creatures within my reach, and can see +the effects, though no cure follows; you pretend to charm the clouds, +which are so far above us that your medicines never reach them. The +clouds usually lie in one direction, and your smoke goes in another. God +alone can command the clouds. Only try and wait patiently; God will give +us rain without your medicines. + +R. D. Mahala-ma-kapa-a-a!! Well, I always thought white men were wise +till this morning. Who ever thought of making trial of starvation? Is +death pleasant, then? + +M. D. Could you make it rain on one spot and not on another? + +R. D. I wouldn't think of trying. I like to see the whole country green, +and all the people glad; the women clapping their hands, and giving me +their ornaments for thankfulness, and lullilooing for joy. + +M. D. I think you deceive both them and yourself. + +R. D. Well, then, there is a pair of us (meaning both are rogues). + +The above is only a specimen of their way of reasoning, in which, when +the language is well understood, they are perceived to be remarkably +acute. These arguments are generally known, and I never succeeded in +convincing a single individual of their fallacy, though I tried to do +so in every way I could think of. Their faith in medicines as charms is +unbounded. The general effect of argument is to produce the impression +that you are not anxious for rain at all; and it is very undesirable +to allow the idea to spread that you do not take a generous interest +in their welfare. An angry opponent of rain-making in a tribe would be +looked upon as were some Greek merchants in England during the Russian +war. + +The conduct of the people during this long-continued drought was +remarkably good. The women parted with most of their ornaments to +purchase corn from more fortunate tribes. The children scoured the +country in search of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain +life, and the men engaged in hunting. Very great numbers of the large +game, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, tsessebes, kamas or hartebeests, +kokongs or gnus, pallahs, rhinoceroses, etc., congregated at some +fountains near Kolobeng, and the trap called "hopo" was constructed, +in the lands adjacent, for their destruction. The hopo consists of two +hedges in the form of the letter V, which are very high and thick near +the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined there, they are made to +form a lane of about fifty yards in length, at the extremity of which +a pit is formed, six or eight feet deep, and about twelve or fifteen in +breadth and length. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins of the +pit, and more especially over that nearest the lane where the animals +are expected to leap in, and over that farthest from the lane where it +is supposed they will attempt to escape after they are in. The trees +form an overlapping border, and render escape almost impossible. The +whole is carefully decked with short green rushes, making the pit like +a concealed pitfall. As the hedges are frequently about a mile long, and +about as much apart at their extremities, a tribe making a circle three +or four miles round the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually +closing up, are almost sure to inclose a large body of game. Driving it +up with shouts to the narrow part of the hopo, men secreted there throw +their javelins into the affrighted herds, and on the animals rush to the +opening presented at the converging hedges, and into the pit, till that +is full of a living mass. Some escape by running over the others, as +a Smithfield market-dog does over the sheep's backs. It is a frightful +scene. The men, wild with excitement, spear the lovely animals with mad +delight; others of the poor creatures, borne down by the weight of their +dead and dying companions, every now and then make the whole mass heave +in their smothering agonies. + +The Bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy head of large game +at the different hopos in a single week; and as every one, both rich and +poor, partook of the prey, the meat counteracted the bad effects of an +exclusively vegetable diet. When the poor, who had no salt, were forced +to live entirely on roots, they were often troubled with indigestion. +Such cases we had frequent opportunities of seeing at other times, for, +the district being destitute of salt, the rich alone could afford to +buy it. The native doctors, aware of the cause of the malady, usually +prescribed some of that ingredient with their medicines. The doctors +themselves had none, so the poor resorted to us for aid. We took the +hint, and henceforth cured the disease by giving a teaspoonful of salt, +minus the other remedies. Either milk or meat had the same effect, +though not so rapidly as salt. Long afterward, when I was myself +deprived of salt for four months, at two distinct periods, I felt no +desire for that condiment, but I was plagued by very great longing for +the above articles of food. This continued as long as I was confined +to an exclusively vegetable diet, and when I procured a meal of flesh, +though boiled in perfectly fresh rain-water, it tasted as pleasantly +saltish as if slightly impregnated with the condiment. Milk or meat, +obtained in however small quantities, removed entirely the excessive +longing and dreaming about roasted ribs of fat oxen, and bowls of cool +thick milk gurgling forth from the big-bellied calabashes; and I could +then understand the thankfulness to Mrs. L. often expressed by poor +Bakwain women, in the interesting condition, for a very little of +either. + +In addition to other adverse influences, the general uncertainty, though +not absolute want of food, and the necessity of frequent absence for the +purpose of either hunting game or collecting roots and fruits, proved +a serious barrier to the progress of the people in knowledge. Our own +education in England is carried on at the comfortable breakfast and +dinner table, and by the cosy fire, as well as in the church and school. +Few English people with stomachs painfully empty would be decorous at +church any more than they are when these organs are overcharged. Ragged +schools would have been a failure had not the teachers wisely provided +food for the body as well as food for the mind; and not only must we +show a friendly interest in the bodily comfort of the objects of our +sympathy as a Christian duty, but we can no more hope for healthy +feelings among the poor, either at home or abroad, without feeding them +into them, than we can hope to see an ordinary working-bee reared into a +queen-mother by the ordinary food of the hive. + +Sending the Gospel to the heathen must, if this view be correct, include +much more than is implied in the usual picture of a missionary, namely, +a man going about with a Bible under his arm. The promotion of commerce +ought to be specially attended to, as this, more speedily than any thing +else, demolishes that sense of isolation which heathenism engenders, +and makes the tribes feel themselves mutually dependent on, and mutually +beneficial to each other. With a view to this, the missionaries at +Kuruman got permission from the government for a trader to reside at +the station, and a considerable trade has been the result; the trader +himself has become rich enough to retire with a competence. Those laws +which still prevent free commercial intercourse among the civilized +nations seem to be nothing else but the remains of our own heathenism. +My observations on this subject make me extremely desirous to promote +the preparation of the raw materials of European manufactures in Africa, +for by that means we may not only put a stop to the slave-trade, but +introduce the negro family into the body corporate of nations, no one +member of which can suffer without the others suffering with it. Success +in this, in both Eastern and Western Africa, would lead, in the course +of time, to a much larger diffusion of the blessings of civilization +than efforts exclusively spiritual and educational confined to any one +small tribe. These, however, it would of course be extremely desirable +to carry on at the same time at large central and healthy stations, for +neither civilization nor Christianity can be promoted alone. In fact, +they are inseparable. + + + + +Chapter 2. + +The Boers--Their Treatment of the Natives--Seizure of native Children +for Slaves--English Traders--Alarm of the Boers--Native Espionage--The +Tale of the Cannon--The Boers threaten Sechele--In violation of Treaty, +they stop English Traders and expel Missionaries--They attack +the Bakwains--Their Mode of Fighting--The Natives killed and +the School-children carried into Slavery--Destruction of English +Property--African Housebuilding and Housekeeping--Mode of Spending +the Day--Scarcity of Food--Locusts--Edible Frogs--Scavenger +Beetle--Continued Hostility of the Boers--The Journey +north--Preparations--Fellow-travelers--The Kalahari Desert-- +Vegetation--Watermelons--The Inhabitants--The Bushmen--Their nomad Mode +of Life--Appearance--The Bakalahari--Their Love for Agriculture and +for domestic Animals--Timid Character--Mode of obtaining Water--Female +Water-suckers--The Desert--Water hidden. + + + +Another adverse influence with which the mission had to contend was +the vicinity of the Boers of the Cashan Mountains, otherwise named +"Magaliesberg". These are not to be counfounded with the Cape colonists, +who sometimes pass by the name. The word Boer simply means "farmer", and +is not synonymous with our word boor. Indeed, to the Boers generally +the latter term would be quite inappropriate, for they are a sober, +industrious, and most hospitable body of peasantry. Those, however, who +have fled from English law on various pretexts, and have been joined +by English deserters and every other variety of bad character in their +distant localities, are unfortunately of a very different stamp. The +great objection many of the Boers had, and still have, to English law, +is that it makes no distinction between black men and white. They +felt aggrieved by their supposed losses in the emancipation of their +Hottentot slaves, and determined to erect themselves into a republic, in +which they might pursue, without molestation, the "proper treatment of +the blacks". It is almost needless to add that the "proper treatment" +has always contained in it the essential element of slavery, namely, +compulsory unpaid labor. + +One section of this body, under the late Mr. Hendrick Potgeiter, +penetrated the interior as far as the Cashan Mountains, whence a Zulu +or Caffre chief, named Mosilikatze, had been expelled by the well-known +Caffre Dingaan; and a glad welcome was given them by the Bechuana +tribes, who had just escaped the hard sway of that cruel chieftain. They +came with the prestige of white men and deliverers; but the Bechuanas +soon found, as they expressed it, "that Mosilikatze was cruel to his +enemies, and kind to those he conquered; but that the Boers destroyed +their enemies, and made slaves of their friends." The tribes who still +retain the semblance of independence are forced to perform all the labor +of the fields, such as manuring the land, weeding, reaping, building, +making dams and canals, and at the same time to support themselves. +I have myself been an eye-witness of Boers coming to a village, and, +according to their usual custom, demanding twenty or thirty women to +weed their gardens, and have seen these women proceed to the scene of +unrequited toil, carrying their own food on their heads, their children +on their backs, and instruments of labor on their shoulders. Nor have +the Boers any wish to conceal the meanness of thus employing unpaid +labor; on the contrary, every one of them, from Mr. Potgeiter and Mr. +Gert Krieger, the commandants, downward, lauded his own humanity and +justice in making such an equitable regulation. "We make the people work +for us, in consideration of allowing them to live in our country." + +I can appeal to the Commandant Krieger if the foregoing is not a fair +and impartial statement of the views of himself and his people. I am +sensible of no mental bias toward or against these Boers; and during the +several journeys I made to the poor enslaved tribes, I never avoided +the whites, but tried to cure and did administer remedies to their sick, +without money and without price. It is due to them to state that I was +invariably treated with respect; but it is most unfortunate that +they should have been left by their own Church for so many years to +deteriorate and become as degraded as the blacks, whom the stupid +prejudice against color leads them to detest. + +This new species of slavery which they have adopted serves to supply the +lack of field-labor only. The demand for domestic servants must be met +by forays on tribes which have good supplies of cattle. The Portuguese +can quote instances in which blacks become so degraded by the love of +strong drink as actually to sell themselves; but never in any one case, +within the memory of man, has a Bechuana chief sold any of his people, +or a Bechuana man his child. Hence the necessity for a foray to seize +children. And those individual Boers who would not engage in it for the +sake of slaves can seldom resist the two-fold plea of a well-told +story of an intended uprising of the devoted tribe, and the prospect of +handsome pay in the division of the captured cattle besides. + +It is difficult for a person in a civilized country to conceive that +any body of men possessing the common attributes of humanity (and these +Boers are by no means destitute of the better feelings of our nature) +should with one accord set out, after loading their own wives and +children with caresses, and proceed to shoot down in cold blood men +and women, of a different color, it is true, but possessed of domestic +feelings and affections equal to their own. I saw and conversed with +children in the houses of Boers who had, by their own and their masters' +account, been captured, and in several instances I traced the parents +of these unfortunates, though the plan approved by the long-headed among +the burghers is to take children so young that they soon forget their +parents and their native language also. It was long before I could give +credit to the tales of bloodshed told by native witnesses, and had I +received no other testimony but theirs I should probably have continued +skeptical to this day as to the truth of the accounts; but when I found +the Boers themselves, some bewailing and denouncing, others glorying in +the bloody scenes in which they had been themselves the actors, I was +compelled to admit the validity of the testimony, and try to account for +the cruel anomaly. They are all traditionally religious, tracing their +descent from some of the best men (Huguenots and Dutch) the world ever +saw. Hence they claim to themselves the title of "Christians", and all +the colored race are "black property" or "creatures". They being the +chosen people of God, the heathen are given to them for an inheritance, +and they are the rod of divine vengeance on the heathen, as were the +Jews of old. Living in the midst of a native population much larger than +themselves, and at fountains removed many miles from each other, they +feel somewhat in the same insecure position as do the Americans in +the Southern States. The first question put by them to strangers is +respecting peace; and when they receive reports from disaffected or +envious natives against any tribe, the case assumes all the appearance +and proportions of a regular insurrection. Severe measures then appear +to the most mildly disposed among them as imperatively called for, and, +however bloody the massacre that follows, no qualms of conscience ensue: +it is a dire necessity for the sake of peace. Indeed, the late Mr. +Hendrick Potgeiter most devoutly believed himself to be the great +peacemaker of the country. + +But how is it that the natives, being so vastly superior in numbers to +the Boers, do not rise and annihilate them? The people among whom they +live are Bechuanas, not Caffres, though no one would ever learn that +distinction from a Boer; and history does not contain one single +instance in which the Bechuanas, even those of them who possess +fire-arms, have attacked either the Boers or the English. If there is +such an instance, I am certain it is not generally known, either beyond +or in the Cape Colony. They have defended themselves when attacked, as +in the case of Sechele, but have never engaged in offensive war with +Europeans. We have a very different tale to tell of the Caffres, and the +difference has always been so evident to these border Boers that, ever +since those "magnificent savages"* obtained possession of fire-arms, not +one Boer has ever attempted to settle in Caffreland, or even face them +as an enemy in the field. The Boers have generally manifested a marked +antipathy to any thing but "long-shot" warfare, and, sidling away in +their emigrations toward the more effeminate Bechuanas, have left their +quarrels with the Caffres to be settled by the English, and their wars +to be paid for by English gold. + + * The "United Service Journal" so styles them. + +The Bakwains at Kolobeng had the spectacle of various tribes enslaved +before their eyes--the Bakatla, the Batlokua, the Bahukeng, the +Bamosetla, and two other tribes of Bakwains were all groaning under +the oppression of unrequited labor. This would not have been felt as so +great an evil but that the young men of those tribes, anxious to obtain +cattle, the only means of rising to respectability and importance among +their own people, were in the habit of sallying forth, like our Irish +and Highland reapers, to procure work in the Cape Colony. After laboring +there three or four years, in building stone dikes and dams for the +Dutch farmers, they were well content if at the end of that time they +could return with as many cows. On presenting one to their chief, they +ranked as respectable men in the tribe ever afterward. These volunteers +were highly esteemed among the Dutch, under the name of Mantatees. They +were paid at the rate of one shilling a day and a large loaf of bread +between six of them. Numbers of them, who had formerly seen me about +twelve hundred miles inland from the Cape, recognized me with the loud +laughter of joy when I was passing them at their work in the Roggefelt +and Bokkefelt, within a few days of Cape Town. I conversed with them and +with elders of the Dutch Church, for whom they were working, and found +that the system was thoroughly satisfactory to both parties. I do not +believe that there is one Boer, in the Cashan or Magaliesberg country, +who would deny that a law was made, in consequence of this labor passing +to the colony, to deprive these laborers of their hardly-earned cattle, +for the very cogent reason that, "if they want to work, let them work +for us their masters," though boasting that in their case it would not +be paid for. I can never cease to be most unfeignedly thankful that I +was not born in a land of slaves. No one can understand the effect of +the unutterable meanness of the slave-system on the minds of those +who, but for the strange obliquity which prevents them from feeling the +degradation of not being gentlemen enough to pay for services rendered, +would be equal in virtue to ourselves. Fraud becomes as natural to them +as "paying one's way" is to the rest of mankind. + +Wherever a missionary lives, traders are sure to come; they are mutually +dependent, and each aids in the work of the other; but experience shows +that the two employments can not very well be combined in the same +person. Such a combination would not be morally wrong, for nothing would +be more fair, and apostolical too, than that the man who devotes +his time to the spiritual welfare of a people should derive temporal +advantage from upright commerce, which traders, who aim exclusively at +their own enrichment, modestly imagine ought to be left to them. But, +though it is right for missionaries to trade, the present system of +missions renders it inexpedient to spend time in so doing. No missionary +with whom I ever came in contact, traded; and while the traders, whom +we introduced and rendered secure in the country, waxed rich, the +missionaries have invariably remained poor, and have died so. The +Jesuits, in Africa at least, were wiser in their generation than we; +theirs were large, influential communities, proceeding on the system of +turning the abilities of every brother into that channel in which he +was most likely to excel; one, fond of natural history, was allowed to +follow his bent; another, fond of literature, found leisure to pursue +his studies; and he who was great in barter was sent in search of ivory +and gold-dust; so that while in the course of performing the religious +acts of his mission to distant tribes, he found the means of aiding +effectually the brethren whom he had left in the central settlement.* We +Protestants, with the comfortable conviction of superiority, have sent +out missionaries with a bare subsistence only, and are unsparing in our +laudations of some for not being worldly-minded whom our niggardliness +made to live as did the prodigal son. I do not speak of myself, nor need +I to do so, but for that very reason I feel at liberty to interpose a +word in behalf of others. I have before my mind at this moment facts and +instances which warrant my putting the case in this way: The command to +"go into all the world and preach the Gospel to every creature" must be +obeyed by Christians either personally or by substitute. Now it is quite +possible to find men whose love for the heathen and devotion to the work +will make them ready to go forth on the terms "bare subsistence", but +what can be thought of the justice, to say nothing of the generosity, +of Christians and churches who not only work their substitutes at the +lowest terms, but regard what they give as charity! The matter is the +more grave in respect to the Protestant missionary, who may have a wife +and family. The fact is, there are many cases in which it is right, +virtuous, and praiseworthy for a man to sacrifice every thing for a +great object, but in which it would be very wrong for others, interested +in the object as much as he, to suffer or accept the sacrifice, if they +can prevent it. + + * The Dutch clergy, too, are not wanting in worldly wisdom. A + fountain is bought, and the lands which it can irrigate + parceled out and let to villagers. As they increase in + numbers, the rents rise and the church becomes rich. With 200 + Pounds per annum in addition from government, the salary + amounts to 400 or 500 Pounds a year. The clergymen then preach + abstinence from politics as a Christian duty. It is quite + clear that, with 400 Pounds a year, but little else except + pure spirituality is required. + +English traders sold those articles which the Boers most dread, namely, +arms and ammunition; and when the number of guns amounted to five, so +much alarm was excited among our neighbors that an expedition of several +hundred Boers was seriously planned to deprive the Bakwains of their +guns. Knowing that the latter would rather have fled to the Kalahari +Desert than deliver up their weapons and become slaves, I proceeded to +the commandant, Mr. Gert Krieger, and, representing the evils of any +such expedition, prevailed upon him to defer it; but that point being +granted, the Boer wished to gain another, which was that I should act as +a spy over the Bakwains. + +I explained the impossibility of my complying with his wish, even though +my principles as an Englishman had not stood in the way, by referring to +an instance in which Sechele had gone with his whole force to punish +an under-chief without my knowledge. This man, whose name was Kake, +rebelled, and was led on in his rebellion by his father-in-law, who +had been regicide in the case of Sechele's father. Several of those who +remained faithful to that chief were maltreated by Kake while passing +to the Desert in search of skins. We had just come to live with the +Bakwains when this happened, and Sechele consulted me. I advised mild +measures, but the messengers he sent to Kake were taunted with the +words, "He only pretends to wish to follow the advice of the teacher: +Sechele is a coward; let him come and fight if he dare." The next +time the offense was repeated, Sechele told me he was going to hunt +elephants; and as I knew the system of espionage which prevails among +all the tribes, I never made inquiries that would convey the opinion +that I distrusted them. I gave credit to his statement. He asked +the loan of a black-metal pot to cook with, as theirs of pottery are +brittle. I gave it and a handful of salt, and desired him to send back +two tit-bits, the proboscis and fore-foot of the elephant. He set off, +and I heard nothing more until we saw the Bakwains carrying home their +wounded, and heard some of the women uttering the loud wail of sorrow +for the dead, and others pealing forth the clear scream of victory. It +was then clear that Sechele had attacked and driven away the rebel. + +Mentioning this to the commandant in proof of the impossibility of +granting his request, I had soon an example how quickly a story can grow +among idle people. The five guns were, within one month, multiplied into +a tale of five hundred, and the cooking-pot, now in a museum at Cape +Town, was magnified into a cannon; "I had myself confessed to the loan." +Where the five hundred guns came from, it was easy to divine; for, +knowing that I used a sextant, my connection with government was a +thing of course; and, as I must know all her majesty's counsels, I was +questioned on the subject of the indistinct rumors which had reached +them of Lord Rosse's telescope. "What right has your government to +set up that large glass at the Cape to look after us behind the Cashan +Mountains?" + +Many of the Boers visited us afterward at Kolobeng, some for medical +advice, and others to trade in those very articles which their own laws +and policy forbid. When I happened to stumble upon any of them in the +town, with his muskets and powder displayed, he would begin an apology, +on the ground that he was a poor man, etc., which I always cut short by +frankly saying that I had nothing to do with either the Boers or their +laws. Many attempts were made during these visits to elicit the truth +about the guns and cannon; and ignorant of the system of espionage which +prevails, eager inquiries were made by them among those who could jabber +a little Dutch. It is noticeable that the system of espionage is as well +developed among the savage tribes as in Austria or Russia. It is a proof +of barbarism. Every man in a tribe feels himself bound to tell the +chief every thing that comes to his knowledge, and, when questioned by +a stranger, either gives answers which exhibit the utmost stupidity, or +such as he knows will be agreeable to his chief. I believe that in this +way have arisen tales of their inability to count more than ten, as +was asserted of the Bechuanas about the very time when Sechele's father +counted out one thousand head of cattle as a beginning of the stock of +his young son. + +In the present case, Sechele, knowing every question put to his people, +asked me how they ought to answer. My reply was, "Tell the truth." Every +one then declared that no cannon existed there; and our friends, judging +the answer by what they themselves would in the circumstances have +said, were confirmed in the opinion that the Bakwains actually possessed +artillery. This was in some degree beneficial to us, inasmuch as fear +prevented any foray in our direction for eight years. During that time +no winter passed without one or two tribes in the East country being +plundered of both cattle and children by the Boers. The plan pursued +is the following: one or two friendly tribes are forced to accompany a +party of mounted Boers, and these expeditions can be got up only in the +winter, when horses may be used without danger of being lost by disease. +When they reach the tribe to be attacked, the friendly natives are +ranged in front, to form, as they say, "a shield"; the Boers then coolly +fire over their heads till the devoted people flee and leave cattle, +wives, and children to the captors. This was done in nine cases during +my residence in the interior, and on no occasion was a drop of Boer's +blood shed. News of these deeds spread quickly among the Bakwains, and +letters were repeatedly sent by the Boers to Sechele, ordering him to +come and surrender himself as their vassal, and stop English traders +from proceeding into the country with fire-arms for sale. But the +discovery of Lake Ngami, hereafter to be described, made the traders +come in five-fold greater numbers, and Sechele replied, "I was made an +independent chief and placed here by God, and not by you. I was never +conquered by Mosilikatze, as those tribes whom you rule over; and the +English are my friends. I get every thing I wish from them. I can not +hinder them from going where they like." Those who are old enough to +remember the threatened invasion of our own island may understand the +effect which the constant danger of a Boerish invasion had on the +minds of the Bakwains; but no others can conceive how worrying were the +messages and threats from the endless self-constituted authorities of +the Magaliesberg Boers; and when to all this harassing annoyance was +added the scarcity produced by the drought, we could not wonder at, +though we felt sorry for, their indisposition to receive instruction. + +The myth of the black pot assumed serious proportions. I attempted to +benefit the tribes among the Boers of Magaliesberg by placing native +teachers at different points. "You must teach the blacks," said Mr. +Hendrick Potgeiter, the commandant in chief, "that they are not equal +to us." Other Boers told me, "I might as well teach the baboons on the +rocks as the Africans," but declined the test which I proposed, namely, +to examine whether they or my native attendants could read best. Two of +their clergymen came to baptize the children of the Boers; so, supposing +these good men would assist me in overcoming the repugnance of their +flock to the education of the blacks, I called on them; but my visit +ended in a 'ruse' practiced by the Boerish commandant, whereby I was +led, by professions of the greatest friendship, to retire to Kolobeng, +while a letter passed me by another way to the other missionaries in +the south, demanding my instant recall "for lending a cannon to their +enemies." The colonial government was also gravely informed that the +story was true, and I came to be looked upon as a most suspicious +character in consequence. + +These notices of the Boers are not intended to produce a sneer at their +ignorance, but to excite the compassion of their friends. They are +perpetually talking about their laws; but practically theirs is only the +law of the strongest. The Bechuanas could never understand the changes +which took place in their commandants. "Why, one can never know who is +the chief among these Boers. Like the Bushmen, they have no king--they +must be the Bushmen of the English." The idea that any tribe of men +could be so senseless as not to have an hereditary chief was so absurd +to these people, that, in order not to appear equally stupid, I was +obliged to tell them that we English were so anxious to preserve the +royal blood, that we had made a young lady our chief. This seemed to +them a most convincing proof of our sound sense. We shall see farther on +the confidence my account of our queen inspired. + +The Boers, encouraged by the accession of Mr. Pretorius, determined at +last to put a stop to English traders going past Kolobeng, by dispersing +the tribe of Bakwains, and expelling all the missionaries. Sir George +Cathcart proclaimed the independence of the Boers, the best thing that +could have been done had they been between us and the Caffres. A treaty +was entered into with these Boers; an article for the free passage of +Englishmen to the country beyond, and also another, that no slavery +should be allowed in the independent territory, were duly inserted, as +expressive of the views of her majesty's government at home. "But what +about the missionaries?" inquired the Boers. "YOU MAY DO AS YOU PLEASE +WITH THEM," is said to have been the answer of the "Commissioner". This +remark, if uttered at all, was probably made in joke: designing men, +however, circulated it, and caused the general belief in its accuracy +which now prevails all over the country, and doubtless led to the +destruction of three mission stations immediately after. The Boers, four +hundred in number, were sent by the late Mr. Pretorius to attack the +Bakwains in 1852. Boasting that the English had given up all the blacks +into their power, and had agreed to aid them in their subjugation by +preventing all supplies of ammunition from coming into the Bechuana +country, they assaulted the Bakwains, and, besides killing a +considerable number of adults, carried off two hundred of our school +children into slavery. The natives under Sechele defended themselves +till the approach of night enabled them to flee to the mountains; and +having in that defense killed a number of the enemy, the very first +ever slain in this country by Bechuanas, I received the credit of having +taught the tribe to kill Boers! My house, which had stood perfectly +secure for years under the protection of the natives, was plundered in +revenge. English gentlemen, who had come in the footsteps of Mr. Cumming +to hunt in the country beyond, and had deposited large quantities of +stores in the same keeping, and upward of eighty head of cattle as +relays for the return journeys, were robbed of all, and, when they came +back to Kolobeng, found the skeletons of the guardians strewed all over +the place. The books of a good library--my solace in our solitude--were +not taken away, but handfuls of the leaves were torn out and scattered +over the place. My stock of medicines was smashed; and all our furniture +and clothing carried off and sold at public auction to pay the expenses +of the foray. + +I do not mention these things by way of making a pitiful wail over my +losses, nor in order to excite commiseration; for, though I do feel +sorry for the loss of lexicons, dictionaries, &c., which had been the +companions of my boyhood, yet, after all, the plundering only set me +entirely free for my expedition to the north, and I have never since had +a moment's concern for any thing I left behind. The Boers resolved to +shut up the interior, and I determined to open the country, and we shall +see who have been most successful in resolution, they or I. + +A short sketch of African housekeeping may not prove uninteresting to +the reader. The entire absence of shops led us to make every thing we +needed from the raw materials. You want bricks to build a house, and +must forthwith proceed to the field, cut down a tree, and saw it into +planks to make the brick-moulds; the materials for doors and windows, +too, are standing in the forest; and, if you want to be respected by +the natives, a house of decent dimensions, costing an immense amount of +manual labor, must be built. The people can not assist you much; for, +though most willing to labor for wages, the Bakwains have a curious +inability to make or put things square: like all Bechuanas, their +dwellings are made round. In the case of three large houses, erected by +myself at different times, every brick and stick had to be put square by +my own right hand. + +Having got the meal ground, the wife proceeds to make it into bread; an +extempore oven is often constructed by scooping out a large hole in an +anthill, and using a slab of stone for a door. Another plan, which might +be adopted by the Australians to produce something better than their +"dampers", is to make a good fire on a level piece of ground, and, +when the ground is thoroughly heated, place the dough in a small, +short-handled frying-pan, or simply on the hot ashes; invert any sort of +metal pot over it, draw the ashes around, and then make a small fire +on the top. Dough, mixed with a little leaven from a former baking, and +allowed to stand an hour or two in the sun, will by this process become +excellent bread. + +We made our own butter, a jar serving as a churn; and our own candles +by means of moulds; and soap was procured from the ashes of the plant +salsola, or from wood-ashes, which in Africa contain so little alkaline +matter that the boiling of successive leys has to be continued for +a month or six weeks before the fat is saponified. There is not much +hardship in being almost entirely dependent on ourselves; there is +something of the feeling which must have animated Alexander Selkirk on +seeing conveniences springing up before him from his own ingenuity; and +married life is all the sweeter when so many comforts emanate directly +from the thrifty striving housewife's hands. + +To some it may appear quite a romantic mode of life; it is one of active +benevolence, such as the good may enjoy at home. Take a single day as +a sample of the whole. We rose early, because, however hot the day may +have been, the evening, night, and morning at Kolobeng were deliciously +refreshing; cool is not the word, where you have neither an increase of +cold nor heat to desire, and where you can sit out till midnight with no +fear of coughs or rheumatism. After family worship and breakfast between +six and seven, we went to keep school for all who would attend--men, +women, and children being all invited. School over at eleven o'clock, +while the missionary's wife was occupied in domestic matters, the +missionary himself had some manual labor as a smith, carpenter, or +gardener, according to whatever was needed for ourselves or for the +people; if for the latter, they worked for us in the garden, or at some +other employment; skilled labor was thus exchanged for the unskilled. +After dinner and an hour's rest, the wife attended her infant-school, +which the young, who were left by their parents entirely to their own +caprice, liked amazingly, and generally mustered a hundred strong; or +she varied that with a sewing-school, having classes of girls to learn +the art; this, too, was equally well relished. During the day every +operation must be superintended, and both husband and wife must labor +till the sun declines. After sunset the husband went into the town to +converse with any one willing to do so, sometimes on general subjects, +at other times on religion. On three nights of the week, as soon as the +milking of the cows was over and it had become dark, we had a public +religious service, and one of instruction on secular subjects, aided +by pictures and specimens. These services were diversified by attending +upon the sick and prescribing for them, giving food, and otherwise +assisting the poor and wretched. We tried to gain their affections by +attending to the wants of the body. The smallest acts of friendship, an +obliging word and civil look, are, as St. Xavier thought, no despicable +part of the missionary armor. Nor ought the good opinion of the most +abject to be uncared for, when politeness may secure it. Their good +word in the aggregate forms a reputation which may be well employed +in procuring favor for the Gospel. Show kind attention to the reckless +opponents of Christianity on the bed of sickness and pain, and they +never can become your personal enemies. Here, if any where, love begets +love. + +When at Kolobeng, during the droughts we were entirely dependent on +Kuruman for supplies of corn. Once we were reduced to living on bran, +to convert which into fine meal we had to grind it three times over. We +were much in want of animal food, which seems to be a greater necessary +of life there than vegetarians would imagine. Being alone, we could +not divide the butcher-meat of a slaughtered animal with a prospect +of getting a return with regularity. Sechele had, by right of +chieftainship, the breast of every animal slaughtered either at home or +abroad, and he most obligingly sent us a liberal share during the whole +period of our sojourn. But these supplies were necessarily so irregular +that we were sometimes fain to accept a dish of locusts. These are quite +a blessing in the country, so much so that the RAIN-DOCTORS sometimes +promised to bring them by their incantations. The locusts are strongly +vegetable in taste, the flavor varying with the plants on which they +feed. There is a physiological reason why locusts and honey should be +eaten together. Some are roasted and pounded into meal, which, eaten +with a little salt, is palatable. It will keep thus for months. Boiled, +they are disagreeable; but when they are roasted I should much prefer +locusts to shrimps, though I would avoid both if possible. + +In traveling we sometimes suffered considerably from scarcity of meat, +though not from absolute want of food. This was felt more especially by +my children; and the natives, to show their sympathy, often gave them +a large kind of caterpillar, which they seemed to relish; these insects +could not be unwholesome, for the natives devoured them in large +quantities themselves. + +Another article of which our children partook with eagerness was a very +large frog, called "Matlametlo".* + + * The Pyxicephalus adspersus of Dr. Smith. + Length of head and body, 5-1/2 inches; + fore legs, 3 inches; + hind legs, 6 inches. + Width of head posteriorly, 3 inches; + of body, 4-1/2 inches. + +These enormous frogs, which, when cooked, look like chickens, are +supposed by the natives to fall down from thunder-clouds, because after +a heavy thunder-shower the pools, which are filled and retain water a +few days, become instantly alive with this loud-croaking, pugnacious +game. This phenomenon takes place in the driest parts of the desert, and +in places where, to an ordinary observer, there is not a sign of life. +Having been once benighted in a district of the Kalahari where there +was no prospect of getting water for our cattle for a day or two, I +was surprised to hear in the fine still evening the croaking of frogs. +Walking out until I was certain that the musicians were between me +and our fire, I found that they could be merry on nothing else but +a prospect of rain. From the Bushmen I afterward learned that the +matlametlo makes a hole at the root of certain bushes, and there +ensconces himself during the months of drought. As he seldom emerges, a +large variety of spider takes advantage of the hole, and makes its +web across the orifice. He is thus furnished with a window and screen +gratis; and no one but a Bushman would think of searching beneath +a spider's web for a frog. They completely eluded my search on the +occasion referred to; and as they rush forth into the hollows filled by +the thunder-shower when the rain is actually falling, and the Bechuanas +are cowering under their skin garments, the sudden chorus struck up +simultaneously from all sides seems to indicate a descent from the +clouds. + +The presence of these matlametlo in the desert in a time of drought was +rather a disappointment, for I had been accustomed to suppose that the +note was always emitted by them when they were chin-deep in water. Their +music was always regarded in other spots as the most pleasant sound that +met the ear after crossing portions of the thirsty desert; and I could +fully appreciate the sympathy for these animals shown by Aesop, himself +an African, in his fable of the "Boys and the Frogs". + +It is remarkable that attempts have not been made to any extent to +domesticate some of the noble and useful creatures of Africa in England. +The eland, which is the most magnificent of all antelopes, would +grace the parks of our nobility more than deer. This animal, from the +excellence of its flesh, would be appropriate to our own country; and as +there is also a splendid esculent frog nearly as large as a chicken, it +would no doubt tend to perpetuate the present alliance if we made a gift +of that to France. + +The scavenger beetle is one of the most useful of all insects, as it +effectually answers the object indicated by the name. Where they abound, +as at Kuruman, the villages are sweet and clean, for no sooner are +animal excretions dropped than, attracted by the scent, the scavengers +are heard coming booming up the wind. They roll away the droppings of +cattle at once, in round pieces often as large as billiard-balls; and +when they reach a place proper by its softness for the deposit of their +eggs and the safety of their young, they dig the soil out from beneath +the ball till they have quite let it down and covered it: they then lay +their eggs within the mass. While the larvae are growing, they devour +the inside of the ball before coming above ground to begin the world for +themselves. The beetles with their gigantic balls look like Atlas with +the world on his back; only they go backward, and, with their heads +down, push with the hind legs, as if a boy should roll a snow-ball with +his legs while standing on his head. As we recommend the eland to John +Bull, and the gigantic frog to France, we can confidently recommend this +beetle to the dirty Italian towns and our own Sanitary Commissioners. + +In trying to benefit the tribes living under the Boers of the Cashan +Mountains, I twice performed a journey of about three hundred miles to +the eastward of Kolobeng. Sechele had become so obnoxious to the Boers +that, though anxious to accompany me in my journey, he dared not +trust himself among them. This did not arise from the crime of +cattle-stealing; for that crime, so common among the Caffres, was never +charged against his tribe, nor, indeed, against any Bechuana tribe. It +is, in fact, unknown in the country, except during actual warfare. His +independence and love of the English were his only faults. In my last +journey there, of about two hundred miles, on parting at the River +Marikwe he gave me two servants, "to be," as he said, "his arms to serve +me," and expressed regret that he could not come himself. "Suppose we +went north," I said, "would you come?" He then told me the story +of Sebituane having saved his life, and expatiated on the far-famed +generosity of that really great man. This was the first time I had +thought of crossing the Desert to Lake Ngami. + +The conduct of the Boers, who, as will be remembered, had sent a letter +designed to procure my removal out of the country, and their well-known +settled policy which I have already described, became more fully +developed on this than on any former occasion. When I spoke to Mr. +Hendrick Potgeiter of the danger of hindering the Gospel of Christ among +these poor savages, he became greatly excited, and called one of his +followers to answer me. He threatened to attack any tribe that might +receive a native teacher, yet he promised to use his influence to +prevent those under him from throwing obstacles in our way. I could +perceive plainly that nothing more could be done in that direction, so I +commenced collecting all the information I could about the desert, with +the intention of crossing it, if possible. Sekomi, the chief of the +Bamangwato, was acquainted with a route which he kept carefully to +himself, because the Lake country abounded in ivory, and he drew large +quantities thence periodically at but small cost to himself. + +Sechele, who valued highly every thing European, and was always fully +alive to his own interest, was naturally anxious to get a share of that +inviting field. He was most anxious to visit Sebituane too, partly, +perhaps, from a wish to show off his new acquirements, but chiefly, I +believe, from having very exalted ideas of the benefits he would derive +from the liberality of that renowned chieftain. In age and family +Sechele is the elder and superior of Sekomi; for when the original +tribe broke up into Bamangwato, Bangwaketse, and Bakwains, the Bakwains +retained the hereditary chieftainship; so their chief, Sechele, +possesses certain advantages over Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato. +If the two were traveling or hunting together, Sechele would take, by +right, the heads of the game shot by Sekomi. + +There are several vestiges, besides, of very ancient partitions and +lordships of tribes. The elder brother of Sechele's father, becoming +blind, gave over the chieftainship to Sechele's father. The descendants +of this man pay no tribute to Sechele, though he is the actual ruler, +and superior to the head of that family; and Sechele, while in every +other respect supreme, calls him Kosi, or Chief. The other tribes will +not begin to eat the early pumpkins of a new crop until they hear that +the Bahurutse have "bitten it", and there is a public ceremony on the +occasion--the son of the chief being the first to taste of the new +harvest. + +Sechele, by my advice, sent men to Sekomi, asking leave for me to pass +along his path, accompanying the request with the present of an ox. +Sekomi's mother, who possesses great influence over him, refused +permission, because she had not been propitiated. This produced a +fresh message; and the most honorable man in the Bakwain tribe, next to +Sechele, was sent with an ox for both Sekomi and his mother. This, too, +was met by refusal. It was said, "The Matebele, the mortal enemies of +the Bechuanas, are in the direction of the lake, and, should they kill +the white man, we shall incur great blame from all his nation." + +The exact position of the Lake Ngami had, for half a century at least, +been correctly pointed out by the natives, who had visited it when rains +were more copious in the Desert than in more recent times, and many +attempts had been made to reach it by passing through the Desert in the +direction indicated; but it was found impossible, even for Griquas, +who, having some Bushman blood in them, may be supposed more capable of +enduring thirst than Europeans. It was clear, then, that our only chance +of success was by going round, instead of through, the Desert. The best +time for the attempt would have been about the end of the rainy season, +in March or April, for then we should have been likely to meet with +pools of rain-water, which always dry up during the rainless winter. I +communicated my intention to an African traveler, Colonel Steele, then +aid-de-camp to the Marquis of Tweedale at Madras, and he made it known +to two other gentlemen, whose friendship we had gained during their +African travel, namely, Major Vardon and Mr. Oswell. All of these +gentlemen were so enamored with African hunting and African discovery +that the two former must have envied the latter his good fortune in +being able to leave India to undertake afresh the pleasures and pains of +desert life. I believe Mr. Oswell came from his high position at a very +considerable pecuniary sacrifice, and with no other end in view but to +extend the boundaries of geographical knowledge. Before I knew of his +coming, I had arranged that the payment for the guides furnished by +Sechele should be the loan of my wagon, to bring back whatever ivory he +might obtain from the chief at the lake. When, at last, Mr. Oswell came, +bringing Mr. Murray with him, he undertook to defray the entire expenses +of the guides, and fully executed his generous intention. + +Sechele himself would have come with us, but, fearing that the +much-talked-of assault of the Boers might take place during our absence, +and blame be attached to me for taking him away, I dissuaded him against +it by saying that he knew Mr. Oswell "would be as determined as himself +to get through the Desert." + +Before narrating the incidents of this journey, I may give some account +of the great Kalahari Desert, in order that the reader may understand in +some degree the nature of the difficulties we had to encounter. + +The space from the Orange River in the south, lat. 29 Degrees, to Lake +Ngami in the north, and from about 24 Degrees east long. to near the +west coast, has been called a desert simply because it contains no +running water, and very little water in wells. It is by no means +destitute of vegetation and inhabitants, for it is covered with grass +and a great variety of creeping plants; besides which there are +large patches of bushes, and even trees. It is remarkably flat, but +interesected in different parts by the beds of ancient rivers; and +prodigious herds of certain antelopes, which require little or no water, +roam over the trackless plains. The inhabitants, Bushmen and Bakalahari, +prey on the game and on the countless rodentia and small species of +the feline race which subsist on these. In general, the soil is +light-colored soft sand, nearly pure silica. The beds of the ancient +rivers contain much alluvial soil; and as that is baked hard by the +burning sun, rain-water stands in pools in some of them for several +months in the year. + +The quantity of grass which grows on this remarkable region is +astonishing, even to those who are familiar with India. It usually rises +in tufts with bare spaces between, or the intervals are occupied by +creeping plants, which, having their roots buried far beneath the soil, +feel little the effects of the scorching sun. The number of these which +have tuberous roots is very great; and their structure is intended to +supply nutriment and moisture, when, during the long droughts, they +can be obtained nowhere else. Here we have an example of a plant, not +generally tuber-bearing, becoming so under circumstances where that +appendage is necessary to act as a reservoir for preserving its life; +and the same thing occurs in Angola to a species of grape-bearing vine, +which is so furnished for the same purpose. The plant to which I +at present refer is one of the cucurbitaceae, which bears a small, +scarlet-colored, eatable cucumber. Another plant, named Leroshua, is +a blessing to the inhabitants of the Desert. We see a small plant with +linear leaves, and a stalk not thicker than a crow's quill; on digging +down a foot or eighteen inches beneath, we come to a tuber, often as +large as the head of a young child; when the rind is removed, we find it +to be a mass of cellular tissue, filled with fluid much like that in a +young turnip. Owing to the depth beneath the soil at which it is found, +it is generally deliciously cool and refreshing. Another kind, named +Mokuri, is seen in other parts of the country, where long-continued +heat parches the soil. This plant is an herbaceous creeper, and deposits +under ground a number of tubers, some as large as a man's head, at spots +in a circle a yard or more, horizontally, from the stem. The natives +strike the ground on the circumference of the circle with stones, till, +by hearing a difference of sound, they know the water-bearing tuber to +be beneath. They then dig down a foot or so, and find it. + +But the most surprising plant of the Desert is the "Kengwe or Keme" +('Cucumis caffer'), the watermelon. In years when more than the usual +quantity of rain falls, vast tracts of the country are literally covered +with these melons; this was the case annually when the fall of rain was +greater than it is now, and the Bakwains sent trading parties every year +to the lake. It happens commonly once every ten or eleven years, and +for the last three times its occurrence has coincided with an +extraordinarily wet season. Then animals of every sort and name, +including man, rejoice in the rich supply. The elephant, true lord of +the forest, revels in this fruit, and so do the different species of +rhinoceros, although naturally so diverse in their choice of pasture. +The various kinds of antelopes feed on them with equal avidity, and +lions, hyaenas, jackals, and mice, all seem to know and appreciate the +common blessing. These melons are not, however, all of them eatable; +some are sweet, and others so bitter that the whole are named by the +Boers the "bitter watermelon". The natives select them by striking +one melon after another with a hatchet, and applying the tongue to the +gashes. They thus readily distinguish between the bitter and sweet. +The bitter are deleterious, but the sweet are quite wholesome. This +peculiarity of one species of plant bearing both sweet and bitter fruits +occurs also in a red, eatable cucumber, often met with in the country. +It is about four inches long, and about an inch and a half in diameter. +It is of a bright scarlet color when ripe. Many are bitter, others quite +sweet. Even melons in a garden may be made bitter by a few bitter kengwe +in the vicinity. The bees convey the pollen from one to the other. + +The human inhabitants of this tract of country consist of Bushmen and +Bakalahari. The former are probably the aborigines of the southern +portion of the continent, the latter the remnants of the first +emigration of Bechuanas. The Bushmen live in the Desert from choice, the +Bakalahari from compulsion, and both possess an intense love of liberty. +The Bushmen are exceptions in language, race, habits, and appearance. +They are the only real nomads in the country; they never cultivate +the soil, nor rear any domestic animal save wretched dogs. They are so +intimately acquainted with the habits of the game that they follow them +in their migrations, and prey upon them from place to place, and thus +prove as complete a check upon their inordinate increase as the other +carnivora. The chief subsistence of the Bushmen is the flesh of game, +but that is eked out by what the women collect of roots and beans, and +fruits of the Desert. Those who inhabit the hot sandy plains of the +Desert possess generally thin, wiry forms, capable of great exertion and +of severe privations. Many are of low stature, though not dwarfish; +the specimens brought to Europe have been selected, like costermongers' +dogs, on account of their extreme ugliness; consequently, English +ideas of the whole tribe are formed in the same way as if the ugliest +specimens of the English were exhibited in Africa as characteristic of +the entire British nation. That they are like baboons is in some degree +true, just as these and other simiae are in some points frightfully +human. + +The Bakalahari are traditionally reported to be the oldest of the +Bechuana tribes, and they are said to have possessed enormous herds of +the large horned cattle mentioned by Bruce, until they were despoiled +of them and driven into the Desert by a fresh migration of their own +nation. Living ever since on the same plains with the Bushmen, subjected +to the same influences of climate, enduring the same thirst, and +subsisting on similar food for centuries, they seem to supply a standing +proof that locality is not always sufficient of itself to account for +difference in races. The Bakalahari retain in undying vigor the Bechuana +love for agriculture and domestic animals. They hoe their gardens +annually, though often all they can hope for is a supply of melons and +pumpkins. And they carefully rear small herds of goats, though I have +seen them lift water for them out of small wells with a bit of ostrich +egg-shell, or by spoonfuls. They generally attach themselves to +influential men in the different Bechuana tribes living adjacent to +their desert home, in order to obtain supplies of spears, knives, +tobacco, and dogs, in exchange for the skins of the animals they may +kill. These are small carnivora of the feline species, including two +species of jackal, the dark and the golden; the former, "motlose" +('Megalotis capensis' or 'Cape fennec'), has the warmest fur the country +yields; the latter, "pukuye" ('Canis mesomelas' and 'C. aureus'), is +very handsome when made into the skin mantle called kaross. Next in +value follow the "tsipa" or small ocelot ('Felis nigripes'), the "tuane" +or lynx, the wild cat, the spotted cat, and other small animals. Great +numbers of 'puti' ('duiker') and 'puruhuru' ('steinbuck') skins are got +too, besides those of lions, leopards, panthers, and hyaenas. During the +time I was in the Bechuana country, between twenty and thirty thousand +skins were made up into karosses; part of them were worn by the +inhabitants, and part sold to traders: many, I believe, find their way +to China. The Bakwains bought tobacco from the eastern tribes, then +purchased skins with it from the Bakalahari, tanned them, and sewed them +into karosses, then went south to purchase heifer-calves with them, cows +being the highest form of riches known, as I have often noticed from +their asking "if Queen Victoria had many cows." The compact they +enter into is mutually beneficial, but injustice and wrong are often +perpetrated by one tribe of Bechuanas going among the Bakalahari of +another tribe, and compelling them to deliver up the skins which they +may be keeping for their friends. They are a timid race, and in bodily +development often resemble the aborigines of Australia. They have thin +legs and arms, and large, protruding abdomens, caused by the coarse, +indigestible food they eat. Their children's eyes lack lustre. I never +saw them at play. A few Bechuanas may go into a village of Bakalahari, +and domineer over the whole with impunity; but when these same +adventurers meet the Bushmen, they are fain to change their manners +to fawning sycophancy; they know that, if the request for tobacco is +refused, these free sons of the Desert may settle the point as to its +possession by a poisoned arrow. + +The dread of visits from Bechuanas of strange tribes causes the +Bakalahari to choose their residences far from water; and they not +unfrequently hide their supplies by filling the pits with sand and +making a fire over the spot. When they wish to draw water for use, the +women come with twenty or thirty of their water-vessels in a bag or net +on their backs. These water-vessels consist of ostrich egg-shells, with +a hole in the end of each, such as would admit one's finger. The women +tie a bunch of grass to one end of a reed about two feet long, and +insert it in a hole dug as deep as the arm will reach; then ram down +the wet sand firmly round it. Applying the mouth to the free end of +the reed, they form a vacuum in the grass beneath, in which the water +collects, and in a short time rises into the mouth. An egg-shell is +placed on the ground alongside the reed, some inches below the mouth of +the sucker. A straw guides the water into the hole of the vessel, as +she draws mouthful after mouthful from below. The water is made to pass +along the outside, not through the straw. If any one will attempt to +squirt water into a bottle placed some distance below his mouth, he will +soon perceive the wisdom of the Bushwoman's contrivance for giving the +stream direction by means of a straw. The whole stock of water is thus +passed through the woman's mouth as a pump, and, when taken home, +is carefully buried. I have come into villages where, had we acted a +domineering part, and rummaged every hut, we should have found nothing; +but by sitting down quietly, and waiting with patience until the +villagers were led to form a favorable opinion of us, a woman would +bring out a shellful of the precious fluid from I know not where. + +The so-called Desert, it may be observed, is by no means a useless +tract of country. Besides supporting multitudes of both small and large +animals, it sends something to the market of the world, and has proved +a refuge to many a fugitive tribe--to the Bakalahari first, and to the +other Bechuanas in turn--as their lands were overrun by the tribe of +true Caffres, called Matebele. The Bakwains, the Bangwaketze, and the +Bamangwato all fled thither; and the Matebele marauders, who came from +the well-watered east, perished by hundreds in their attempts to follow +them. One of the Bangwaketze chiefs, more wily than the rest, sent false +guides to lead them on a track where, for hundreds of miles, not a drop +of water could be found, and they perished in consequence. Many Bakwains +perished too. Their old men, who could have told us ancient stories, +perished in these flights. An intelligent Mokwain related to me how the +Bushmen effectually balked a party of his tribe which lighted on their +village in a state of burning thirst. Believing, as he said, that +nothing human could subsist without water, they demanded some, but were +coolly told by these Bushmen that they had none, and never drank any. +Expecting to find them out, they resolved to watch them night and day. +They persevered for some days, thinking that at last the water must +come forth; but, notwithstanding their watchfulness, kept alive by most +tormenting thirst, the Bakwains were compelled to exclaim, "Yak! yak! +these are not men; let us go." Probably the Bushmen had been subsisting +on a store hidden under ground, which had eluded the vigilance of their +visitors. + + + + +Chapter 3. + +Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849--Companions--Our Route-- +Abundance of Grass--Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert--Mode of +digging Wells--The Eland--Animals of the Desert--The Hyaena--The +Chief Sekomi--Dangers--The wandering Guide--Cross Purposes--Slow +Progress--Want of Water--Capture of a Bushwoman--The Salt-pan +at Nchokotsa--The Mirage--Reach the River Zouga--The Quakers of +Africa--Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849--Its Extent--Small +Depth of Water--Position as the Reservoir of a great River System--The +Bamangwato and their Chief--Desire to visit Sebituane, the Chief of the +Makololo--Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish us with Guides--Resolve +to return to the Cape--The Banks of the Zouga--Pitfalls--Trees of the +District--Elephants--New Species of Antelope--Fish in the Zouga. + + + +Such was the desert which we were now preparing to cross--a region +formerly of terror to the Bechuanas from the numbers of serpents which +infested it and fed on the different kinds of mice, and from the intense +thirst which these people often endured when their water-vessels were +insufficient for the distances to be traveled over before reaching the +wells. + +Just before the arrival of my companions, a party of the people of the +lake came to Kolobeng, stating that they were sent by Lechulatebe, +the chief, to ask me to visit that country. They brought such flaming +accounts of the quantities of ivory to be found there (cattle-pens +made of elephants' tusks of enormous size, &c.), that the guides of the +Bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reaching the lake as any one +of us could desire. This was fortunate, as we knew the way the strangers +had come was impassable for wagons. + +Messrs. Oswell and Murray came at the end of May, and we all made a +fair start for the unknown region on the 1st of June, 1849. Proceeding +northward, and passing through a range of tree-covered hills to +Shokuane, formerly the residence of the Bakwains, we soon after entered +on the high road to the Bamangwato, which lies generally in the bed of +an ancient river or wady that must formerly have flowed N. to S. The +adjacent country is perfectly flat, but covered with open forest and +bush, with abundance of grass; the trees generally are a kind of acacia +called "Monato", which appears a little to the south of this region, and +is common as far as Angola. A large caterpillar, called "Nato", feeds by +night on the leaves of these trees, and comes down by day to bury itself +at the root in the sand, in order to escape the piercing rays of the +sun. The people dig for it there, and are fond of it when roasted, on +account of its pleasant vegetable taste. When about to pass into the +chrysalis state, it buries itself in the soil, and is sometimes +sought for as food even then. If left undisturbed, it comes forth as a +beautiful butterfly: the transmutation was sometimes employed by me with +good effect when speaking with the natives, as an illustration of our +own great change and resurrection. + +The soil is sandy, and there are here and there indications that at +spots which now afford no water whatever there were formerly wells and +cattle stations. + +Boatlanama, our next station, is a lovely spot in the otherwise dry +region. The wells from which we had to lift out the water for our cattle +are deep, but they were well filled. A few villages of Bakalahari were +found near them, and great numbers of pallahs, springbucks, Guinea-fowl, +and small monkeys. + +Lopepe came next. This place afforded another proof of the desiccation +of the country. The first time I passed it, Lopepe was a large pool with +a stream flowing out of it to the south; now it was with difficulty we +could get our cattle watered by digging down in the bottom of a well. + +At Mashue--where we found a never-failing supply of pure water in a +sandstone rocky hollow--we left the road to the Bamangwato hills, and +struck away to the north into the Desert. Having watered the cattle at +a well called Lobotani, about N.W. of Bamangwato, we next proceeded to +a real Kalahari fountain, called Serotli. The country around is covered +with bushes and trees of a kind of leguminosae, with lilac flowers. The +soil is soft white sand, very trying to the strength of the oxen, as +the wheels sink into it over the felloes and drag heavily. At Serotli we +found only a few hollows like those made by the buffalo and rhinoceros +when they roll themselves in the mud. In a corner of one of these there +appeared water, which would have been quickly lapped up by our dogs, had +we not driven them away. And yet this was all the apparent supply for +some eighty oxen, twenty horses, and about a score of men. Our guide, +Ramotobi, who had spent his youth in the Desert, declared that, though +appearances were against us, there was plenty of water at hand. We +had our misgivings, for the spades were soon produced; but our guides, +despising such new-fangled aid, began in good earnest to scrape out the +sand with their hands. The only water we had any promise of for the next +seventy miles--that is, for a journey of three days with the wagons--was +to be got here. By the aid of both spades and fingers two of the holes +were cleared out, so as to form pits six feet deep and about as many +broad. Our guides were especially earnest in their injunctions to us not +to break through the hard stratum of sand at the bottom, because they +knew, if it were broken through, "the water would go away." They are +quite correct, for the water seems to lie on this flooring of incipient +sandstone. The value of the advice was proved in the case of an +Englishman whose wits were none of the brightest, who, disregarding +it, dug through the sandy stratum in the wells at Mohotluani: the water +immediately flowed away downward, and the well became useless. When +we came to the stratum, we found that the water flowed in on all sides +close to the line where the soft sand came in contact with it. Allowing +it to collect, we had enough for the horses that evening; but as there +was not sufficient for the oxen, we sent them back to Lobotani, where, +after thirsting four full days (ninety-six hours), they got a good +supply. The horses were kept by us as necessary to procure game for the +sustenance of our numerous party. Next morning we found the water +had flowed in faster than at first, as it invariably does in these +reservoirs, owing to the passages widening by the flow. Large quantities +of the sand come into the well with the water, and in the course of a +few days the supply, which may be equal to the wants of a few men +only, becomes sufficient for oxen as well. In these sucking-places the +Bakalahari get their supplies; and as they are generally in the hollows +of ancient river-beds, they are probably the deposits from rains +gravitating thither; in some cases they may be the actual fountains, +which, though formerly supplying the river's flow, now no longer rise to +the surface. + +Here, though the water was perfectly inaccessible to elands, large +numbers of these fine animals fed around us; and, when killed, they +were not only in good condition, but their stomachs actually contained +considerable quantities of water. + +I examined carefully the whole alimentary canal, in order to see if +there were any peculiarity which might account for the fact that this +animal can subsist for months together without drinking, but found +nothing. Other animals, such as the duiker ('Cephalopus mergens') +or puti (of the Bechuanas), the steinbuck ('Tragulus rupestris') or +puruhuru, the gemsbuck ('Oryx capensis') or kukama, and the porcupine +('Hystrix cristata'), are all able to subsist without water for many +months at a time by living on bulbs and tubers containing moisture. They +have sharp-pointed hoofs well adapted for digging, and there is little +difficulty in comprehending their mode of subsistence. Some animals, +on the other hand, are never seen but in the vicinity of water. The +presence of the rhinoceros, of the buffalo and gnu ('Catoblepas gnu'), +of the giraffe, the zebra, and pallah ('Antilope melampus'), is always +a certain indication of water being within a distance of seven or +eight miles; but one may see hundreds of elands ('Boselaphus oreas'), +gemsbuck, the tolo or koodoo ('Strepsiceros capensis'), also springbucks +('Gazella euchore') and ostriches, without being warranted thereby in +inferring the presence of water within thirty or forty miles. Indeed, +the sleek, fat condition of the eland in such circumstances would not +remove the apprehension of perishing by thirst from the mind of even a +native. I believe, however, that these animals can subsist only where +there is some moisture in the vegetation on which they feed; for in one +year of unusual drought we saw herds of elands and flocks of ostriches +crowding to the Zouga from the Desert, and very many of the latter were +killed in pitfalls on the banks. As long as there is any sap in the +pasturage they seldom need water. But should a traveler see the "spoor" +of a rhinoceros, or buffalo, or zebra, he would at once follow it up, +well assured that before he had gone many miles he would certainly reach +water. + +In the evening of our second day at Serotli, a hyaena, appearing +suddenly among the grass, succeeded in raising a panic among our cattle. +This false mode of attack is the plan which this cowardly animal always +adopts. His courage resembles closely that of a turkey-cock. He will +bite, if an animal is running away; but if the animal stand still, so +does he. Seventeen of our draught oxen ran away, and in their flight +went right into the hands of Sekomi, whom, from his being unfriendly to +our success, we had no particular wish to see. Cattle-stealing, such as +in the circumstances might have occurred in Caffraria, is here unknown; +so Sekomi sent back our oxen, and a message strongly dissuading us +against attempting the Desert. "Where are you going? You will be killed +by the sun and thirst, and then all the white men will blame me for not +saving you." This was backed by a private message from his mother. "Why +do you pass me? I always made the people collect to hear the word that +you have got. What guilt have I, that you pass without looking at me?" +We replied by assuring the messengers that the white men would attribute +our deaths to our own stupidity and "hard-headedness" (tlogo, e thata), +"as we did not intend to allow our companions and guides to return till +they had put us into our graves." We sent a handsome present to Sekomi, +and a promise that, if he allowed the Bakalahari to keep the wells open +for us, we would repeat the gift on our return. + +After exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attempts to persuade us +to return, the under-chief, who headed the party of Sekomi's messengers, +inquired, "Who is taking them?" Looking round, he exclaimed, with a face +expressive of the most unfeigned disgust, "It is Ramotobi!" Our guide +belonged to Sekomi's tribe, but had fled to Sechele; as fugitives in +this country are always well received, and may even afterward visit the +tribe from which they had escaped, Ramotobi was in no danger, though +doing that which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests of his +own chief and tribe. + +All around Serotli the country is perfectly flat, and composed of +soft white sand. There is a peculiar glare of bright sunlight from a +cloudless sky over the whole scene; and one clump of trees and bushes, +with open spaces between, looks so exactly like another, that if you +leave the wells, and walk a quarter of a mile in any direction, it is +difficult to return. Oswell and Murray went out on one occasion to get +an eland, and were accompanied by one of the Bakalahari. The perfect +sameness of the country caused even this son of the Desert to lose his +way; a most puzzling conversation forthwith ensued between them and +their guide. One of the most common phrases of the people is "Kia +itumela", I thank you, or I am pleased; and the gentlemen were both +quite familiar with it, and with the word "metse", water. But there is a +word very similar in sound, "Kia timela", I am wandering; its perfect +is "Ki timetse", I have wandered. The party had been roaming about, +perfectly lost, till the sun went down; and, through their mistaking the +verb "wander" for "to be pleased", and "water", the colloquy went on at +intervals during the whole bitterly cold night in somewhat the following +style: + +"Where are the wagons?" + +REAL ANSWER. "I don't know. I have wandered. I never wandered before. I +am quite lost." + +SUPPOSED ANSWER. "I don't know. I want water. I am glad, I am quite +pleased. I am thankful to you." + +"Take us to the wagons, and you will get plenty of water." + +REAL ANSWER (looking vacantly around). "How did I wander? Perhaps the +well is there, perhaps not. I don't know. I have wandered." + +SUPPOSED ANSWER. "Something about thanks; he says he is pleased, and +mentions water again." The guide's vacant stare while trying to remember +is thought to indicate mental imbecility, and the repeated thanks were +supposed to indicate a wish to deprecate their wrath. + +"Well, Livingstone HAS played us a pretty trick, giving us in charge of +an idiot. Catch us trusting him again. What can this fellow mean by his +thanks and talk about water? Oh, you born fool! take us to the wagons, +and you will get both meat and water. Wouldn't a thrashing bring him to +his senses again?" "No, no, for then he will run away, and we shall be +worse off than we are now." + +The hunters regained the wagons next day by their own sagacity, which +becomes wonderfully quickened by a sojourn in the Desert; and we enjoyed +a hearty laugh on the explanation of their midnight colloquies. Frequent +mistakes of this kind occur. A man may tell his interpreter to say that +he is a member of the family of the chief of the white men; "YES, YOU +SPEAK LIKE A CHIEF," is the reply, meaning, as they explain it, that a +chief may talk nonsense without any one daring to contradict him. +They probably have ascertained, from that same interpreter, that this +relative of the white chief is very poor, having scarcely any thing in +his wagon. + +I sometimes felt annoyed at the low estimation in which some of my +hunting friends were held; for, believing that the chase is eminently +conducive to the formation of a brave and noble character, and that the +contest with wild beasts is well adapted for fostering that coolness +in emergencies, and active presence of mind, which we all admire, I +was naturally anxious that a higher estimate of my countrymen should be +formed in the native mind. "Have these hunters, who come so far and +work so hard, no meat at home?"--"Why, these men are rich, and could +slaughter oxen every day of their lives."--"And yet they come here, and +endure so much thirst for the sake of this dry meat, none of which is +equal to beef?"--"Yes, it is for the sake of play besides" (the idea of +sport not being in the language). This produces a laugh, as much as to +say, "Ah! you know better;" or, "Your friends are fools." When they can +get a man to kill large quantities of game for them, whatever HE may +think of himself or of his achievements, THEY pride themselves in having +adroitly turned to good account the folly of an itinerant butcher. + +The water having at last flowed into the wells we had dug in sufficient +quantity to allow a good drink to all our cattle, we departed from +Serotli in the afternoon; but as the sun, even in winter, which it now +was, is always very powerful by day, the wagons were dragged but slowly +through the deep, heavy sand, and we advanced only six miles before +sunset. We could only travel in the mornings and evenings, as a single +day in the hot sun and heavy sand would have knocked up the oxen. Next +day we passed Pepacheu (white tufa), a hollow lined with tufa, in which +water sometimes stands, but it was now dry; and at night our trocheamer* +showed that we had made but twenty-five miles from Serotli. + + * This is an instrument which, when fastened on the wagon-wheel, + records the number of revolutions made. By multiplying this number + by the circumference of the wheel, the actual distance traveled over + is at once ascertained. + +Ramotobi was angry at the slowness of our progress, and told us that, +as the next water was three days in front, if we traveled so slowly we +should never get there at all. The utmost endeavors of the servants, +cracking their whips, screaming and beating, got only nineteen miles out +of the poor beasts. We had thus proceeded forty-four miles from Serotli; +and the oxen were more exhausted by the soft nature of the country, and +the thirst, than if they had traveled double the distance over a hard +road containing supplies of water: we had, as far as we could judge, +still thirty miles more of the same dry work before us. At this season +the grass becomes so dry as to crumble to powder in the hands; so +the poor beasts stood wearily chewing, without taking a single fresh +mouthful, and lowing painfully at the smell of water in our vessels in +the wagons. We were all determined to succeed; so we endeavored to save +the horses by sending them forward with the guide, as a means of making +a desperate effort in case the oxen should fail. Murray went forward +with them, while Oswell and I remained to bring the wagons on their +trail as far as the cattle could drag them, intending then to send the +oxen forward too. + +The horses walked quickly away from us; but, on the morning of the third +day, when we imagined the steeds must be near the water, we discovered +them just alongside the wagons. The guide, having come across the fresh +footprints of some Bushmen who had gone in an opposite direction to that +which we wished to go, turned aside to follow them. An antelope had been +ensnared in one of the Bushmen's pitfalls. Murray followed Ramotobi most +trustingly along the Bushmen's spoor, though that led them away from +the water we were in search of; witnessed the operation of slaughtering, +skinning, and cutting up the antelope; and then, after a hard day's +toil, found himself close upon the wagons! The knowledge still retained +by Ramotobi of the trackless waste of scrub, through which we were now +passing, seemed admirable. For sixty or seventy miles beyond Serotli, +one clump of bushes and trees seemed exactly like another; but, as we +walked together this morning, he remarked, "When we come to that hollow +we shall light upon the highway of Sekomi; and beyond that again +lies the River Mokoko;" which, though we passed along it, I could not +perceive to be a river-bed at all. + +After breakfast, some of the men, who had gone forward on a little path +with some footprints of water-loving animals upon it, returned with the +joyful tidings of "metse", water, exhibiting the mud on their knees in +confirmation of the news being true. It does one's heart good to see the +thirsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain-water, as this was. In +they dash until the water is deep enough to be nearly level with their +throat, and then they stand drawing slowly in the long, refreshing +mouthfuls, until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would +burst. So much do they imbibe, that a sudden jerk, when they come out on +the bank, makes some of the water run out again from their mouths; but, +as they have been days without food too, they very soon commence to +graze, and of grass there is always abundance every where. This pool was +called Mathuluani; and thankful we were to have obtained so welcome a +supply of water. + +After giving the cattle a rest at this spot, we proceeded down the dry +bed of the River Mokoko. The name refers to the water-bearing stratum +before alluded to; and in this ancient bed it bears enough of water +to admit of permanent wells in several parts of it. We had now the +assurance from Ramotobi that we should suffer no more from thirst. Twice +we found rain-water in the Mokoko before we reached Mokokonyani, where +the water, generally below ground elsewhere, comes to the surface in a +bed of tufa. The adjacent country is all covered with low, thorny scrub, +with grass, and here and there clumps of the "wait-a-bit thorn", or +'Acacia detinens'. At Lotlakani (a little reed), another spring three +miles farther down, we met with the first Palmyra trees which we had +seen in South Africa; they were twenty-six in number. + +The ancient Mokoko must have been joined by other rivers below this, for +it becomes very broad, and spreads out into a large lake, of which the +lake we were now in search of formed but a very small part. We observed +that, wherever an ant-eater had made his hole, shells were thrown out +with the earth, identical with those now alive in the lake. + +When we left the Mokoko, Ramotobi seemed, for the first time, to be at a +loss as to which direction to take. He had passed only once away to the +west of the Mokoko, the scenes of his boyhood. Mr. Oswell, while riding +in front of the wagons, happened to spy a Bushwoman running away in a +bent position, in order to escape observation. Thinking it to be a +lion, he galloped up to her. She thought herself captured, and began to +deliver up her poor little property, consisting of a few traps made of +cords; but, when I explained that we only wanted water, and would pay +her if she led us to it, she consented to conduct us to a spring. It was +then late in the afternoon, but she walked briskly before our horses for +eight miles, and showed us the water of Nchokotsa. After leading us to +the water, she wished to go away home, if indeed she had any--she had +fled from a party of her countrymen, and was now living far from all +others with her husband--but as it was now dark, we wished her to +remain. As she believed herself still a captive, we thought she might +slip away by night; so, in order that she should not go away with the +impression that we were dishonest, we gave her a piece of meat and a +good large bunch of beads; at the sight of the latter she burst into a +merry laugh, and remained without suspicion. + +At Nchokotsa we came upon the first of a great number of salt-pans, +covered with an efflorescence of lime, probably the nitrate. A thick +belt of mopane-trees (a 'Bauhinia') hides this salt-pan, which is twenty +miles in circumference, entirely from the view of a person coming from +the southeast; and, at the time the pan burst upon our view, the setting +sun was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white incrustations, +making the whole look exactly like a lake. Oswell threw his hat up +in the air at the sight, and shouted out a huzza which made the poor +Bushwoman and the Bakwains think him mad. I was a little behind him, and +was as completely deceived by it as he; but, as we had agreed to allow +each other to behold the lake at the same instant, I felt a little +chagrined that he had, unintentionally, got the first glance. We had +no idea that the long-looked-for lake was still more than three hundred +miles distant. One reason of our mistake was, that the River Zouga was +often spoken of by the same name as the lake, viz., Noka ea Batletli +("River of the Batletli"). + +The mirage on these salinas was marvelous. It is never, I believe, +seen in perfection, except over such saline incrustations. Here not a +particle of imagination was necessary for realizing the exact picture +of large collections of water; the waves danced along above, and the +shadows of the trees were vividly reflected beneath the surface in such +an admirable manner, that the loose cattle, whose thirst had not been +slaked sufficiently by the very brackish water of Nchokotsa, with the +horses, dogs, and even the Hottentots ran off toward the deceitful +pools. A herd of zebras in the mirage looked so exactly like elephants +that Oswell began to saddle a horse in order to hunt them; but a sort +of break in the haze dispelled the illusion. Looking to the west and +northwest from Nchokotsa, we could see columns of black smoke, exactly +like those from a steam-engine, rising to the clouds, and were assured +that these arose from the burning reeds of the Noka ea Batletli. + +On the 4th of July we went forward on horseback toward what we supposed +to be the lake, and again and again did we seem to see it; but at last +we came to the veritable water of the Zouga, and found it to be a river +running to the N.E. A village of Bakurutse lay on the opposite bank; +these live among Batletli, a tribe having a click in their language, and +who were found by Sebituane to possess large herds of the great horned +cattle. They seem allied to the Hottentot family. Mr. Oswell, in +trying to cross the river, got his horse bogged in the swampy bank. Two +Bakwains and I managed to get over by wading beside a fishing-weir. The +people were friendly, and informed us that this water came out of the +Ngami. This news gladdened all our hearts, for we now felt certain of +reaching our goal. We might, they said, be a moon on the way; but we had +the River Zouga at our feet, and by following it we should at last reach +the broad water. + +Next day, when we were quite disposed to be friendly with every one, +two of the Bamangwato, who had been sent on before us by Sekomi to drive +away all the Bushmen and Bakalahari from our path, so that they should +not assist or guide us, came and sat down by our fire. We had seen their +footsteps fresh in the way, and they had watched our slow movements +forward, and wondered to see how we, without any Bushmen, found our way +to the waters. This was the first time they had seen Ramotobi. "You have +reached the river now," said they; and we, quite disposed to laugh at +having won the game, felt no ill-will to any one. They seemed to feel +no enmity to us either; but, after an apparently friendly conversation, +proceeded to fulfill to the last the instructions of their chief. +Ascending the Zouga in our front, they circulated the report that our +object was to plunder all the tribes living on the river and lake; but +when they had got half way up the river, the principal man sickened of +fever, turned back some distance, and died. His death had a good effect, +for the villagers connected it with the injury he was attempting to do +to us. They all saw through Sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in +our attempt; and though they came to us at first armed, kind and fair +treatment soon produced perfect confidence. + +When we had gone up the bank of this beautiful river about ninety-six +miles from the point where we first struck it, and understood that we +were still a considerable distance from the Ngami, we left all the oxen +and wagons, except Mr. Oswell's, which was the smallest, and one team, +at Ngabisane, in the hope that they would be recruited for the home +journey, while we made a push for the lake. The Bechuana chief of the +Lake region, who had sent men to Sechele, now sent orders to all the +people on the river to assist us, and we were received by the Bakoba, +whose language clearly shows that they bear an affinity to the tribes +in the north. They call themselves Bayeiye, i.e., men; but the Bechuanas +call them Bakoba, which contains somewhat of the idea of slaves. They +have never been known to fight, and, indeed, have a tradition that their +forefathers, in their first essays at war, made their bows of the Palma +Christi, and, when these broke, they gave up fighting altogether. They +have invariably submitted to the rule of every horde which has overrun +the countries adjacent to the rivers on which they specially love to +dwell. They are thus the Quakers of the body politic in Africa. + +A long time after the period of our visit, the chief of the Lake, +thinking to make soldiers of them, took the trouble to furnish them +with shields. "Ah! we never had these before; that is the reason we have +always succumbed. Now we will fight." But a marauding party came from +the Makololo, and our "Friends" at once paddled quickly, night and day, +down the Zouga, never daring to look behind them till they reached the +end of the river, at the point where we first saw it. + +The canoes of these inland sailors are truly primitive craft: they are +hollowed out of the trunks of single trees by means of iron adzes; and +if the tree has a bend, so has the canoe. I liked the frank and manly +bearing of these men, and, instead of sitting in the wagon, preferred a +seat in one of the canoes. I found they regarded their rude vessels +as the Arab does his camel. They have always fires in them, and prefer +sleeping in them while on a journey to spending the night on shore. "On +land you have lions," say they, "serpents, hyaenas, and your enemies; +but in your canoe, behind a bank of reed, nothing can harm you." Their +submissive disposition leads to their villages being frequently visited +by hungry strangers. We had a pot on the fire in the canoe by the way, +and when we drew near the villages devoured the contents. When fully +satisfied ourselves, I found we could all look upon any intruders with +perfect complacency, and show the pot in proof of having devoured the +last morsel. + +While ascending in this way the beautifully-wooded river, we came to a +large stream flowing into it. This was the River Tamunak'le. I inquired +whence it came. "Oh, from a country full of rivers--so many no one +can tell their number--and full of large trees." This was the first +confirmation of statements I had heard from the Bakwains who had +been with Sebituane, that the country beyond was not "the large sandy +plateau" of the philosophers. The prospect of a highway capable of being +traversed by boats to an entirely unexplored and very populous region, +grew from that time forward stronger and stronger in my mind; so much so +that, when we actually came to the lake, this idea occupied such a large +portion of my mental vision that the actual discovery seemed of but +little importance. I find I wrote, when the emotions caused by the +magnificent prospects of the new country were first awakened in my +breast, that they "might subject me to the charge of enthusiasm, a +charge which I wished I deserved, as nothing good or great had ever been +accomplished in the world without it."* + + * Letters published by the Royal Geographical Society. + Read 11th February and 8th April, 1850. + +Twelve days after our departure from the wagons at Ngabisane we came to +the northeast end of Lake Ngami; and on the 1st of August, 1849, we +went down together to the broad part, and, for the first time, this +fine-looking sheet of water was beheld by Europeans. The direction of +the lake seemed to be N.N.E. and S.S.W. by compass. The southern portion +is said to bend round to the west, and to receive the Teoughe from the +north at its northwest extremity. We could detect no horizon where we +stood looking S.S.W., nor could we form any idea of the extent of the +lake, except from the reports of the inhabitants of the district; and, +as they professed to go round it in three days, allowing twenty-five +miles a day would make it seventy-five, or less than seventy +geographical miles in circumference. Other guesses have been made since +as to its circumference, ranging between seventy and one hundred miles. +It is shallow, for I subsequently saw a native punting his canoe over +seven or eight miles of the northeast end; it can never, therefore, +be of much value as a commercial highway. In fact, during the months +preceding the annual supply of water from the north, the lake is so +shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can approach the water through +the boggy, reedy banks. These are low on all sides, but on the west +there is a space devoid of trees, showing that the waters have retired +thence at no very ancient date. This is another of the proofs of +desiccation met with so abundantly throughout the whole country. A +number of dead trees lie on this space, some of them imbedded in the +mud, right in the water. We were informed by the Bayeiye, who live on +the lake, that when the annual inundation begins, not only trees of +great size, but antelopes, as the springbuck and tsessebe ('Acronotus +lunata'), are swept down by its rushing waters; the trees are gradually +driven by the winds to the opposite side, and become imbedded in mud. + +The water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full, but brackish when +low; and that coming down the Tamunak'le we found to be so clear, cold, +and soft, the higher we ascended, that the idea of melting snow was +suggested to our minds. We found this region, with regard to that from +which we had come, to be clearly a hollow, the lowest point being +Lake Kumadau; the point of the ebullition of water, as shown by one of +Newman's barometric thermometers, was only between 207-1/2 Deg. and 206 +Deg., giving an elevation of not much more than two thousand feet above +the level of the sea. We had descended above two thousand feet in coming +to it from Kolobeng. It is the southern and lowest part of the great +river system beyond, in which large tracts of country are inundated +annually by tropical rains, hereafter to be described. A little of that +water, which in the countries farther north produces inundation, comes +as far south as 20d 20', the latitude of the upper end of the lake, +and instead of flooding the country, falls into the lake as into a +reservoir. It begins to flow down the Embarrah, which divides into the +rivers Tzo and Teoughe. The Tzo divides into the Tamunak'le and Mababe; +the Tamunak'le discharges itself into the Zouga, and the Teoughe into +the lake. The flow begins either in March or April, and the descending +waters find the channels of all these rivers dried out, except in +certain pools in their beds, which have long dry spaces between them. +The lake itself is very low. The Zouga is but a prolongation of the +Tamunak'le, and an arm of the lake reaches up to the point where the +one ends and the other begins. The last is narrow and shallow, while the +Zouga is broad and deep. The narrow arm of the lake, which on the map +looks like a continuation of the Zouga, has never been observed to flow +either way. It is as stagnant as the lake itself. + +The Teoughe and Tamunak'le, being essentially the same river, and +receiving their supplies from the same source (the Embarrah or Varra), +can never outrun each other. If either could, or if the Teoughe could +fill the lake--a thing which has never happened in modern times--then +this little arm would prove a convenient escapement to prevent +inundation. If the lake ever becomes lower than the bed of the Zouga, a +little of the water of the Tamunak'le might flow into it instead of down +the Zouga; we should then have the phenomenon of a river flowing two +ways; but this has never been observed to take place here, and it is +doubtful if it ever can occur in this locality. The Zouga is broad and +deep when it leaves the Tamunak'le, but becomes gradually narrower as +you descend about two hundred miles; there it flows into Kumadau, a +small lake about three or four miles broad and twelve long. The water, +which higher up begins to flow in April, does not make much progress in +filling this lake till the end of June. In September the rivers cease +to flow. When the supply has been more than usually abundant, a little +water flows beyond Kumadau, in the bed first seen by us on the 4th of +July; if the quantity were larger, it might go further in the dry rocky +bed of the Zouga, since seen still further to the east. The water +supply of this part of the river system, as will be more fully explained +further on, takes place in channels prepared for a much more copious +flow. It resembles a deserted Eastern garden, where all the embankments +and canals for irrigation can be traced, but where, the main dam and +sluices having been allowed to get out of repair, only a small portion +can be laid under water. In the case of the Zouga the channel is +perfect, but water enough to fill the whole channel never comes down; +and before it finds its way much beyond Kumadau, the upper supply ceases +to run and the rest becomes evaporated. The higher parts of its bed even +are much broader and more capacious than the lower toward Kumadau. The +water is not absorbed so much as lost in filling up an empty channel, +from which it is to be removed by the air and sun. There is, I am +convinced, no such thing in the country as a river running into sand and +becoming lost. The phenomenon, so convenient for geographers, haunted +my fancy for years; but I have failed in discovering any thing except a +most insignificant approach to it. + +My chief object in coming to the lake was to visit Sebituane, the great +chief of the Makololo, who was reported to live some two hundred miles +beyond. We had now come to a half-tribe of the Bamangwato, called +Batauana. Their chief was a young man named Lechulatebe. Sebituane +had conquered his father Moremi, and Lechulatebe received part of his +education while a captive among the Bayeiye. His uncle, a sensible +man, ransomed him; and, having collected a number of families together, +abdicated the chieftainship in favor of his nephew. As Lechulatebe had +just come into power, he imagined that the proper way of showing his +abilities was to act directly contrary to every thing that his uncle +advised. When we came, the uncle recommended him to treat us handsomely, +therefore the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only. It ought to +have been an ox. So I proposed to my companions to loose the animal +and let him go, as a hint to his master. They, however, did not wish to +insult him. I, being more of a native, and familiar with their customs, +knew that this shabby present was an insult to us. We wished to purchase +some goats or oxen; Lechulatebe offered us elephants' tusks. "No, we can +not eat these; we want something to fill our stomachs." "Neither can I; +but I hear you white men are all very fond of these bones, so I offer +them; I want to put the goats into my own stomach." A trader, who +accompanied us, was then purchasing ivory at the rate of ten good large +tusks for a musket worth thirteen shillings. They were called "bones"; +and I myself saw eight instances in which the tusks had been left to rot +with the other bones where the elephant fell. The Batauana never had +a chance of a market before; but, in less than two years after our +discovery, not a man of them could be found who was not keenly alive to +the great value of the article. + +On the day after our arrival at the lake, I applied to Lechulatebe for +guides to Sebituane. As he was much afraid of that chief, he objected, +fearing lest other white men should go thither also, and give Sebituane +guns; whereas, if the traders came to him alone, the possession of +fire-arms would give him such a superiority that Sebituane would be +afraid of him. It was in vain to explain that I would inculcate peace +between them--that Sebituane had been a father to him and Sechele, and +was as anxious to see me as he, Lechulatebe, had been. He offered to +give me as much ivory as I needed without going to that chief; but when +I refused to take any, he unwillingly consented to give me guides. Next +day, however, when Oswell and I were prepared to start, with the horses +only, we received a senseless refusal; and like Sekomi, who had thrown +obstacles in our way, he sent men to the Bayeiye with orders to refuse +us a passage across the river. Trying hard to form a raft at a narrow +part, I worked many hours in the water; but the dry wood was so +worm-eaten it would not bear the weight of a single person. I was not +then aware of the number of alligators which exist in the Zouga, and +never think of my labor in the water without feeling thankful that I +escaped their jaws. The season was now far advanced; and as Mr. Oswell, +with his wonted generous feelings, volunteered, on the spot, to go +down to the Cape and bring up a boat, we resolved to make our way south +again. + +Coming down the Zouga, we had now time to look at its banks. These are +very beautiful, resembling closely many parts of the River Clyde above +Glasgow. The formation is soft calcareous tufa, such as forms the bottom +of all this basin. The banks are perpendicular on the side to which +the water swings, and sloping and grassy on the other. The slopes are +selected for the pitfalls designed by the Bayeiye to entrap the animals +as they come to drink. These are about seven or eight feet deep, three +or four feet wide at the mouth, and gradually decrease till they are +only about a foot wide at the bottom. The mouth is an oblong square (the +only square thing made by the Bechuanas, for every thing else is round), +and the long diameter at the surface is about equal to the depth. The +decreasing width toward the bottom is intended to make the animal wedge +himself more firmly in by his weight and struggles. The pitfalls are +usually in pairs, with a wall a foot thick left uncut between the ends +of each, so that if the beast, when it feels its fore legs descending, +should try to save itself from going in altogether by striding the hind +legs, he would spring forward and leap into the second with a force +which insures the fall of his whole body into the trap. They are covered +with great care. All the excavated earth is removed to a distance, so as +not to excite suspicion in the minds of the animals. Reeds and grass are +laid across the top; above this the sand is thrown, and watered so as to +appear exactly like the rest of the spot. Some of our party plumped into +these pitfalls more than once, even when in search of them, in order to +open them to prevent the loss of our cattle. If an ox sees a hole, he +carefully avoids it; and old elephants have been known to precede the +herd and whisk off the coverings of the pitfalls on each side all the +way down to the water. We have known instances in which the old among +these sagacious animals have actually lifted the young out of the trap. + +The trees which adorn the banks are magnificent. Two enormous baobabs +('Adansonia digitata'), or mowanas, grow near its confluence with the +lake where we took the observations for the latitude (20d 20' S.). We +were unable to ascertain the longitude of the lake, as our watches were +useless; it may be between 22 Deg. and 23 Deg. E. The largest of the two +baobabs was 76 feet in girth. The palmyra appears here and there among +trees not met with in the south. The mokuchong, or moshoma, bears an +edible fruit of indifferent quality, but the tree itself would be a fine +specimen of arboreal beauty in any part of the world. The trunk is often +converted into canoes. The motsouri, which bears a pink plum containing +a pleasant acid juice, resembles an orange-tree in its dark evergreen +foliage, and a cypress in its form. It was now winter-time, and we saw +nothing of the flora. The plants and bushes were dry; but wild indigo +abounded, as indeed it does over large tracts of Africa. It is called +mohetolo, or the "changer", by the boys, who dye their ornaments of +straw with the juice. There are two kinds of cotton in the country, and +the Mashona, who convert it into cloth, dye it blue with this plant. + +We found the elephants in prodigious numbers on the southern bank. They +come to drink by night, and after having slaked their thirst--in doing +which they throw large quantities of water over themselves, and are +heard, while enjoying the refreshment, screaming with delight--they +evince their horror of pitfalls by setting off in a straight line to the +desert, and never diverge till they are eight or ten miles off. They are +smaller here than in the countries farther south. At the Limpopo, +for instance, they are upward of twelve feet high; here, only eleven: +farther north we shall find them nine feet only. The koodoo, or tolo, +seemed smaller, too, than those we had been accustomed to see. We +saw specimens of the kuabaoba, or straight-horned rhinoceros ('R. +Oswellii'), which is a variety of the white ('R. simus'); and we found +that, from the horn being projected downward, it did not obstruct the +line of vision, so that this species is able to be much more wary than +its neighbors. + +We discovered an entirely new species of antelope, called leche or +lechwi. It is a beautiful water-antelope of a light brownish-yellow +color. Its horns--exactly like those of the 'Aigoceros ellipsiprimnus', +the waterbuck, or tumogo, of the Bechuanas--rise from the head with +a slight bend backward, then curve forward at the points. The chest, +belly, and orbits are nearly white, the front of the legs and ankles +deep brown. From the horns, along the nape to the withers, the male has +a small mane of the same yellowish color with the rest of the skin, and +the tail has a tuft of black hair. It is never found a mile from water; +islets in marshes and rivers are its favorite haunts, and it is quite +unknown except in the central humid basin of Africa. Having a good deal +of curiosity, it presents a noble appearance as it stands gazing, with +head erect, at the approaching stranger. When it resolves to decamp, it +lowers its head, and lays its horns down to a level with the withers; +it then begins with a waddling trot, which ends in its galloping and +springing over bushes like the pallahs. It invariably runs to the water, +and crosses it by a succession of bounds, each of which appears to be +from the bottom. We thought the flesh good at first, but soon got tired +of it. + +Great shoals of excellent fish come down annually with the access of +waters. The mullet ('Mugil Africanus') is the most abundant. They are +caught in nets. + +The 'Glanis siluris', a large, broad-headed fish, without scales, and +barbed--called by the natives "mosala"--attains an enormous size and +fatness. They are caught so large that when a man carries one over his +shoulder the tail reaches the ground. It is a vegetable feeder, and in +many of its habits resembles the eel. Like most lophoid fishes, it has +the power of retaining a large quantity of water in a part of its great +head, so that it can leave the river, and even be buried in the mud of +dried-up pools, without being destroyed. Another fish closely resembling +this, and named 'Clarias capensis' by Dr. Smith, is widely diffused +throughout the interior, and often leaves the rivers for the sake of +feeding in pools. As these dry up, large numbers of them are entrapped +by the people. A water-snake, yellow-spotted and dark brown, is often +seen swimming along with its head above the water: it is quite harmless, +and is relished as food by the Bayeiye. + +They mention ten kinds of fish in their river; and, in their songs of +praise to the Zouga, say, "The messenger sent in haste is always forced +to spend the night on the way by the abundance of food you place before +him." The Bayeiye live much on fish, which is quite an abomination to +the Bechuanas of the south; and they catch them in large numbers by +means of nets made of the fine, strong fibres of the hibiscus, which +grows abundantly in all moist places. Their float-ropes are made of +the ife, or, as it is now called, the 'Sanseviere Angolensis', a +flag-looking plant, having a very strong fibre, that abounds from +Kolobeng to Angola; and the floats themselves are pieces of a +water-plant containing valves at each joint, which retain the air in +cells about an inch long. The mode of knotting the nets is identical +with our own. + +They also spear the fish with javelins having a light handle, which +readily floats on the surface. They show great dexterity in harpooning +the hippopotamus; and, the barbed blade of the spear being attached to +a rope made of the young leaves of the palmyra, the animal can not +rid himself of the canoe, attached to him in whale fashion, except by +smashing it, which he not unfrequently does by his teeth or by a stroke +of his hind foot. + +On returning to the Bakurutse, we found that their canoes for fishing +were simply large bundles of reeds tied together. Such a canoe would +be a ready extemporaneous pontoon for crossing any river that had reedy +banks. + + + + +Chapter 4. + +Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane--Reach the Zouga-- +The Tsetse--A Party of Englishmen--Death of Mr. Rider--Obtain +Guides--Children fall sick with Fever--Relinquish the Attempt to reach +Sebituane--Mr. Oswell's Elephant-hunting--Return to Kolobeng--Make +a third Start thence--Reach Nchokotsa--Salt-pans--"Links", or +Springs--Bushmen--Our Guide Shobo--The Banajoa--An ugly Chief--The +Tsetse--Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but harmless to wild Animals +and Man--Operation of the Poison--Losses caused by it--The Makololo-- +Our Meeting with Sebituane--Sketch of his Career--His Courage and +Conquests--Manoeuvres of the Batoka--He outwits them--His Wars with +the Matebele--Predictions of a native Prophet--Successes of the +Makololo--Renewed Attacks of the Matebele--The Island of Loyelo--Defeat +of the Matebele--Sebituane's Policy--His Kindness to Strangers and to +the Poor--His sudden Illness and Death--Succeeded by his Daughter--Her +Friendliness to us--Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing +in the Centre of the Continent--Its Size--The Mambari--The +Slave-trade--Determine to send Family to England--Return to the Cape +in April, 1852--Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during +Hostilities--Need of a "Special Correspondent"--Kindness of the London +Missionary Society--Assistance afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the +Cape. + + + +Having returned to Kolobeng, I remained there till April, 1850, and then +left in company with Mrs. Livingstone, our three children, and the chief +Sechele--who had now bought a wagon of his own--in order to go across +the Zouga at its lower end, with the intention of proceeding up the +northern bank till we gained the Tamunak'le, and of then ascending that +river to visit Sebituane in the north. Sekomi had given orders to fill +up the wells which we had dug with so much labor at Serotli, so we took +the more eastern route through the Bamangwato town and by Letloche. That +chief asked why I had avoided him in our former journeys. I replied that +my reason was that I knew he did not wish me to go to the lake, and I +did not want to quarrel with him. "Well," he said, "you beat me then, +and I am content." + +Parting with Sechele at the ford, as he was eager to visit Lechulatebe, +we went along the northern woody bank of the Zouga with great labor, +having to cut down very many trees to allow the wagons to pass. Our +losses by oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy. The Bayeiye kindly +opened the pits when they knew of our approach; but when that was not +the case, we could blame no one on finding an established custom of the +country inimical to our interests. On approaching the confluence of the +Tamunak'le we were informed that the fly called tsetse* abounded on its +banks. This was a barrier we never expected to meet; and, as it might +have brought our wagons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness, where +no supplies for the children could be obtained, we were reluctantly +compelled to recross the Zouga. + + * 'Glossina morsitans', the first specimens of which were + brought to England in 1848 by my friend Major Vardon, from the + banks of the Limpopo. + +From the Bayeiye we learned that a party of Englishmen, who had come to +the lake in search of ivory, were all laid low by fever, so we traveled +hastily down about sixty miles to render what aid was in our power. +We were grieved to find, as we came near, that Mr. Alfred Rider, an +enterprising young artist who had come to make sketches of this country +and of the lake immediately after its discovery, had died of fever +before our arrival; but by the aid of medicines and such comforts as +could be made by the only English lady who ever visited the lake, the +others happily recovered. The unfinished drawing of Lake Ngami was made +by Mr. Rider just before his death, and has been kindly lent for this +work by his bereaved mother. + +Sechele used all his powers of eloquence with Lechulatebe to induce him +to furnish guides that I might be able to visit Sebituane on ox-back, +while Mrs. Livingstone and the children remained at Lake Ngami. He +yielded at last. I had a very superior London-made gun, the gift of +Lieutenant Arkwright, on which I placed the greatest value, both +on account of the donor and the impossibility of my replacing it. +Lechulatebe fell violently in love with it, and offered whatever +number of elephants' tusks I might ask for it. I too was enamored with +Sebituane; and as he promised in addition that he would furnish Mrs. +Livingstone with meat all the time of my absence, his arguments made me +part with the gun. Though he had no ivory at the time to pay me, I felt +the piece would be well spent on those terms, and delivered it to him. +All being ready for our departure, I took Mrs. Livingstone about six +miles from the town, that she might have a peep at the broad part of the +lake. Next morning we had other work to do than part, for our little boy +and girl were seized with fever. On the day following, all our servants +were down too with the same complaint. As nothing is better in these +cases than change of place, I was forced to give up the hope of seeing +Sebituane that year; so, leaving my gun as part payment for guides next +year, we started for the pure air of the Desert. + +Some mistake had happened in the arrangement with Mr. Oswell, for we met +him on the Zouga on our return, and he devoted the rest of this season +to elephant-hunting, at which the natives universally declare he is the +greatest adept that ever came into the country. He hunted without dogs. +It is remarkable that this lordly animal is so completely harassed by +the presence of a few yelping curs as to be quite incapable of attending +to man. He makes awkward attempts to crush them by falling on his knees; +and sometimes places his forehead against a tree ten inches in diameter; +glancing on one side of the tree and then on the other, he pushes it +down before him, as if he thought thereby to catch his enemies. The only +danger the huntsman has to apprehend is the dogs running toward him, and +thereby leading the elephant to their master. Mr. Oswell has been known +to kill four large old male elephants a day. The value of the ivory in +these cases would be one hundred guineas. We had reason to be proud of +his success, for the inhabitants conceived from it a very high idea of +English courage; and when they wished to flatter me would say, "If you +were not a missionary you would just be like Oswell; you would not hunt +with dogs either." When, in 1852, we came to the Cape, my black coat +eleven years out of fashion, and without a penny of salary to draw, +we found that Mr. Oswell had most generously ordered an outfit for the +half-naked children, which cost about 200 Pounds, and presented it to +us, saying he thought Mrs. Livingstone had a right to the game of her +own preserves. + +Foiled in this second attempt to reach Sebituane, we returned again to +Kolobeng, whither we were soon followed by a number of messengers from +that chief himself. When he heard of our attempts to visit him, he +dispatched three detachments of his men with thirteen brown cows to +Lechulatebe, thirteen white cows to Sekomi, and thirteen black cows to +Sechele, with a request to each to assist the white men to reach him. +Their policy, however, was to keep him out of view, and act as his +agents in purchasing with his ivory the goods he wanted. This is +thoroughly African; and that continent being without friths and arms +of the sea, the tribes in the centre have always been debarred from +European intercourse by its universal prevalence among all the people +around the coasts. + +Before setting out on our third journey to Sebituane, it was necessary +to visit Kuruman; and Sechele, eager, for the sake of the commission +thereon, to get the ivory of that chief into his own hands, allowed all +the messengers to leave before our return. Sekomi, however, was more +than usually gracious, and even furnished us with a guide, but no one +knew the path beyond Nchokotsa which we intended to follow. When we +reached that point, we found that the main spring of the gun of another +of his men, who was well acquainted with the Bushmen, through whose +country we should pass, had opportunely broken. I never undertook +to mend a gun with greater zest than this; for, under promise of his +guidance, we went to the north instead of westward. All the other guides +were most liberally rewarded by Mr. Oswell. + +We passed quickly over a hard country, which is perfectly flat. A little +soil lying on calcareous tufa, over a tract of several hundreds of +miles, supports a vegetation of fine sweet short grass, and mopane and +baobab trees. On several parts of this we found large salt-pans, one +of which, Ntwetwe, is fifteen miles broad and one hundred long. The +latitude might have been taken on its horizon as well as upon the sea. + +Although these curious spots seem perfectly level, all those in this +direction have a gentle slope to the northeast: thither the rain-water, +which sometimes covers them, gently gravitates. This, it may be +recollected, is the direction of the Zouga. The salt dissolved in +the water has by this means all been transferred to one pan in that +direction, named Chuantsa; on it we see a cake of salt and lime an inch +and a half thick. All the others have an efflorescence of lime and one +of the nitrates only, and some are covered thickly with shells. These +shells are identical with those of the mollusca of Lake Ngami and the +Zouga. There are three varieties, spiral, univalve, and bivalve. + +In every salt-pan in the country there is a spring of water on one side. +I can remember no exception to this rule. The water of these springs is +brackish, and contains the nitrate of soda. In one instance there are +two springs, and one more saltish than the other. If this supply came +from beds of rock salt the water would not be drinkable, as it generally +is, and in some instances, where the salt contained in the pan in which +these springs appear has been removed by human agency, no fresh deposit +occurs. It is therefore probable that these deposits of salt are the +remains of the very slightly brackish lakes of antiquity, large portions +of which must have been dried out in the general desiccation. We see an +instance in Lake Ngami, which, when low, becomes brackish, and this view +seems supported by the fact that the largest quantities of salt have +been found in the deepest hollows or lowest valleys, which have no +outlet or outgoing gorge; and a fountain, about thirty miles south of +the Bamangwato--the temperature of which is upward of 100 Deg.--while +strongly impregnated with pure salt, being on a flat part of the +country, is accompanied by no deposit. + +When these deposits occur in a flat tufaceous country like the present, +a large space is devoid of vegetation, on account of the nitrates +dissolving the tufa, and keeping it in a state unfavorable to the growth +of plants. + +We found a great number of wells in this tufa. A place called +Matlomagan-yana, or the "Links", is quite a chain of these never-failing +springs. As they occasionally become full in seasons when no rain +falls, and resemble somewhat in this respect the rivers we have already +mentioned, it is probable they receive some water by percolation from +the river system in the country beyond. Among these links we found many +families of Bushmen; and, unlike those on the plains of the Kalahari, +who are generally of short stature and light yellow color, these were +tall, strapping fellows, of dark complexion. Heat alone does not produce +blackness of skin, but heat with moisture seems to insure the deepest +hue. + +One of these Bushmen, named Shobo, consented to be our guide over the +waste between these springs and the country of Sebituane. Shobo gave us +no hope of water in less than a month. Providentially, however, we came +sooner than we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of +pools. It is impossible to convey an idea of the dreary scene on which +we entered after leaving this spot: the only vegetation was a low scrub +in deep sand; not a bird or insect enlivened the landscape. It was, +without exception, the most uninviting prospect I ever beheld; and, +to make matters worse, our guide Shobo wandered on the second day. We +coaxed him on at night, but he went to all points of the compass on the +trails of elephants which had been here in the rainy season, and then +would sit down in the path, and in his broken Sichuana say, "No water, +all country only; Shobo sleeps; he breaks down; country only;" and then +coolly curl himself up and go to sleep. The oxen were terribly fatigued +and thirsty; and on the morning of the fourth day, Shobo, after +professing ignorance of every thing, vanished altogether. We went on in +the direction in which we last saw him, and about eleven o'clock began +to see birds; then the trail of a rhinoceros. At this we unyoked the +oxen, and they, apparently knowing the sign, rushed along to find the +water in the River Mahabe, which comes from the Tamunak'le, and lay to +the west of us. The supply of water in the wagons had been wasted by one +of our servants, and by the afternoon only a small portion remained for +the children. This was a bitterly anxious night; and next morning the +less there was of water, the more thirsty the little rogues became. The +idea of their perishing before our eyes was terrible. It would almost +have been a relief to me to have been reproached with being the entire +cause of the catastrophe; but not one syllable of upbraiding was uttered +by their mother, though the tearful eye told the agony within. In the +afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible relief, some of the men +returned with a supply of that fluid of which we had never before felt +the true value. + +The cattle, in rushing along to the water in the Mahabe, probably +crossed a small patch of trees containing tsetse, an insect which was +shortly to become a perfect pest to us. Shobo had found his way to the +Bayeiye, and appeared, when we came up to the river, at the head of a +party; and, as he wished to show his importance before his friends, he +walked up boldly and commanded our whole cavalcade to stop, and to bring +forth fire and tobacco, while he coolly sat down and smoked his pipe. It +was such an inimitably natural way of showing off, that we all stopped +to admire the acting, and, though he had left us previously in the +lurch, we all liked Shobo, a fine specimen of that wonderful people, the +Bushmen. + +Next day we came to a village of Banajoa, a tribe which extends far to +the eastward. They were living on the borders of a marsh in which the +Mahabe terminates. They had lost their crop of corn ('Holcus sorghum'), +and now subsisted almost entirely on the root called "tsitla", a kind of +aroidoea, which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tasted starch. +When dried, pounded into meal, and allowed to ferment, it forms a not +unpleasant article of food. The women shave all the hair off their +heads, and seem darker than the Bechuanas. Their huts were built on +poles, and a fire is made beneath by night, in order that the smoke may +drive away the mosquitoes, which abound on the Mababe and Tamunak'le +more than in any other part of the country. The head man of this +village, Majane, seemed a little wanting in ability, but had had wit +enough to promote a younger member of the family to the office. This +person, the most like the ugly negro of the tobacconists' shops I ever +saw, was called Moroa Majane, or son of Majane, and proved an active +guide across the River Sonta, and to the banks of the Chobe, in the +country of Sebituane. We had come through another tsetse district +by night, and at once passed our cattle over to the northern bank to +preserve them from its ravages. + +A few remarks on the Tsetse, or 'Glossina morsitans', may here be +appropriate. It is not much larger than the common house-fly, and is +nearly of the same brown color as the common honey-bee; the after part +of the body has three or four yellow bars across it; the wings project +beyond this part considerably, and it is remarkably alert, avoiding +most dexterously all attempts to capture it with the hand at common +temperatures; in the cool of the mornings and evenings it is less agile. +Its peculiar buzz when once heard can never be forgotten by the traveler +whose means of locomotion are domestic animals; for it is well known +that the bite of this poisonous insect is certain death to the ox, +horse, and dog. In this journey, though we were not aware of any great +number having at any time lighted on our cattle, we lost forty-three +fine oxen by its bite. We watched the animals carefully, and believe +that not a score of flies were ever upon them. + +A most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is its perfect +harmlessness in man and wild animals, and even calves, so long as they +continue to suck the cows. We never experienced the slightest injury +from them ourselves, personally, although we lived two months in their +HABITAT, which was in this case as sharply defined as in many others, +for the south bank of the Chobe was infested by them, and the northern +bank, where our cattle were placed, only fifty yards distant, contained +not a single specimen. This was the more remarkable, as we often saw +natives carrying over raw meat to the opposite bank with many tsetse +settled upon it. + +The poison does not seem to be injected by a sting, or by ova placed +beneath the skin; for, when one is allowed to feed freely on the hand, +it is seen to insert the middle prong of three portions, into which the +proboscis divides, somewhat deeply into the true skin; it then draws it +out a little way, and it assumes a crimson color as the mandibles come +into brisk operation. The previously shrunken belly swells out, and, +if left undisturbed, the fly quietly departs when it is full. A slight +itching irritation follows, but not more than in the bite of a mosquito. +In the ox this same bite produces no more immediate effects than in man. +It does not startle him as the gad-fly does; but a few days afterward +the following symptoms supervene: the eye and nose begin to run, the +coat stares as if the animal were cold, a swelling appears under the +jaw, and sometimes at the navel; and, though the animal continues to +graze, emaciation commences, accompanied with a peculiar flaccidity +of the muscles, and this proceeds unchecked until, perhaps months +afterward, purging comes on, and the animal, no longer able to graze, +perishes in a state of extreme exhaustion. Those which are in good +condition often perish soon after the bite is inflicted with staggering +and blindness, as if the brain were affected by it. Sudden changes of +temperature produced by falls of rain seem to hasten the progress of the +complaint; but, in general, the emaciation goes on uninterruptedly for +months, and, do what we will, the poor animals perish miserably. + +When opened, the cellular tissue on the surface of the body beneath the +skin is seen to be injected with air, as if a quantity of soap-bubbles +were scattered over it, or a dishonest, awkward butcher had been trying +to make it look fat. The fat is of a greenish-yellow color and of an +oily consistence. All the muscles are flabby, and the heart often so +soft that the fingers may be made to meet through it. The lungs and +liver partake of the disease. The stomach and bowels are pale and empty, +and the gall-bladder is distended with bile. + +These symptoms seem to indicate what is probably the case, a poison in +the blood, the germ of which enters when the proboscis is inserted to +draw blood. The poison-germ, contained in a bulb at the root of +the proboscis, seems capable, although very minute in quantity, of +reproducing itself, for the blood after death by tsetse is very small +in quantity, and scarcely stains the hands in dissection. I shall +have by-and-by to mention another insect, which by the same operation +produces in the human subject both vomiting and purging. + +The mule, ass, and goat enjoy the same immunity from the tsetse as man +and the game. Many large tribes on the Zambesi can keep no domestic +animals except the goat, in consequence of the scourge existing in their +country. Our children were frequently bitten, yet suffered no harm; and +we saw around us numbers of zebras, buffaloes, pigs, pallahs and other +antelopes, feeding quietly in the very habitat of the tsetse, yet as +undisturbed by its bite as oxen are when they first receive the fatal +poison. There is not so much difference in the natures of the horse +and zebra, the buffalo and ox, the sheep and antelope, as to afford +any satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon. Is a man not as much +a domestic animal as a dog? The curious feature in the case, that dogs +perish though fed on milk, whereas the calves escape so long as they +continue sucking, made us imagine that the mischief might be produced by +some plant in the locality, and not by tsetse; but Major Vardon, of the +Madras Army, settled that point by riding a horse up to a small hill +infested by the insect without allowing him time to graze, and, though +he only remained long enough to take a view of the country and catch +some specimens of tsetse on the animal, in ten days afterward the horse +was dead. + +The well-known disgust which the tsetse shows to animal excreta, as +exhibited when a village is placed in its habitat, has been observed and +turned to account by some of the doctors. They mix droppings of animals, +human milk, and some medicines together, and smear the animals that are +about to pass through a tsetse district; but this, though it proves a +preventive at the time, is not permanent. There is no cure yet known for +the disease. A careless herdsman allowing a large number of cattle to +wander into a tsetse district loses all except the calves; and Sebituane +once lost nearly the entire cattle of his tribe, very many thousands, +by unwittingly coming under its influence. Inoculation does not insure +immunity, as animals which have been slightly bitten in one year may +perish by a greater number of bites in the next; but it is probable that +with the increase of guns the game will perish, as has happened in +the south, and the tsetse, deprived of food, may become extinct +simultaneously with the larger animals. + +The Makololo whom we met on the Chobe were delighted to see us; and as +their chief Sebituane was about twenty miles down the river, Mr. Oswell +and I proceeded in canoes to his temporary residence. He had come from +the Barotse town of Naliele down to Sesheke as soon as he heard of white +men being in search of him, and now came one hundred miles more to +bid us welcome into his country. He was upon an island, with all his +principal men around him, and engaged in singing when we arrived. It +was more like church music than the sing-song ee ee ee, ae ae ae, of +the Bechuanas of the south, and they continued the tune for some +seconds after we approached. We informed him of the difficulties we had +encountered, and how glad we were that they were all at an end by at +last reaching his presence. He signified his own joy, and added, "Your +cattle are all bitten by the tsetse, and will certainly die; but never +mind, I have oxen, and will give you as many as you need." We, in our +ignorance, then thought that as so few tsetse had bitten them no great +mischief would follow. He then presented us with an ox and a jar of +honey as food, and handed us over to the care of Mahale, who had headed +the party to Kolobeng, and would now fain appropriate to himself the +whole credit of our coming. Prepared skins of oxen, as soft as cloth, +were given to cover us through the night; and, as nothing could be +returned to this chief, Mahale became the owner of them. Long before it +was day Sebituane came, and sitting down by the fire, which was +lighted for our benefit behind the hedge where we lay, he narrated the +difficulties he had himself experienced, when a young man, in crossing +that same desert which we had mastered long afterward. As he has been +most remarkable in his career, and was unquestionably the greatest man +in all that country, a short sketch of his life may prove interesting to +the reader. + +Sebituane was about forty-five years of age; of a tall and wiry form, +an olive or coffee-and-milk color, and slightly bald; in manner cool +and collected, and more frank in his answers than any other chief I ever +met. He was the greatest warrior ever heard of beyond the colony; for, +unlike Mosilikatse, Dingaan, and others, he always led his men +into battle himself. When he saw the enemy, he felt the edge of his +battle-axe, and said, "Aha! it is sharp, and whoever turns his back on +the enemy will feel its edge." So fleet of foot was he, that all his +people knew there was no escape for the coward, as any such would be +cut down without mercy. In some instances of skulking he allowed the +individual to return home; then calling him, he would say, "Ah! you +prefer dying at home to dying in the field, do you? You shall have your +desire." This was the signal for his immediate execution. + +He came from the country near the sources of the Likwa and Namagari +rivers in the south, so we met him eight hundred or nine hundred miles +from his birth-place. He was not the son of a chief, though related +closely to the reigning family of the Basutu; and when, in an attack by +Sikonyele, the tribe was driven out of one part, Sebituane was one in +that immense horde of savages driven back by the Griquas from Kuruman in +1824.* He then fled to the north with an insignificant party of men and +cattle. At Melita the Bangwaketse collected the Bakwains, Bakatla, and +Bahurutse, to "eat them up". Placing his men in front, and the women +behind the cattle, he routed the whole of his enemies at one blow. +Having thus conquered Makabe, the chief of the Bangwaketse, he took +immediate possession of his town and all his goods. + + * See an account of this affair in Moffat's "Missionary + Enterprise in Africa". + +Sebituane subsequently settled at the place called Litubaruba, where +Sechele now dwells, and his people suffered severely in one of those +unrecorded attacks by white men, in which murder is committed and +materials laid up in the conscience for a future judgment. + +A great variety of fortune followed him in the northern part of the +Bechuana country; twice he lost all his cattle by the attacks of the +Matabele, but always kept his people together, and retook more than he +lost. He then crossed the Desert by nearly the same path that we did. +He had captured a guide, and, as it was necessary to travel by night in +order to reach water, the guide took advantage of this and gave him the +slip. After marching till morning, and going as they thought right, +they found themselves on the trail of the day before. Many of his +cattle burst away from him in the phrensy of thirst, and rushed back +to Serotli, then a large piece of water, and to Mashue and Lopepe, the +habitations of their original owners. He stocked himself again among the +Batletli, on Lake Kumadau, whose herds were of the large-horned species +of cattle.* Conquering all around the lake, he heard of white men living +at the west coast; and, haunted by what seems to have been the dream +of his whole life, a desire to have intercourse with the white man, he +passed away to the southwest, into the parts opened up lately by Messrs. +Galton and Andersson. There, suffering intensely from thirst, he and +his party came to a small well. He decided that the men, not the cattle, +should drink it, the former being of most value, as they could fight +for more should these be lost. In the morning they found the cattle had +escaped to the Damaras. + + * We found the Batauana in possession of this breed when we + discovered Lake Ngami. One of these horns, brought to England + by Major Vardon, will hold no less than twenty-one imperial + pints of water; and a pair, brought by Mr. Oswell, and now in + the possession of Colonel Steele, measures from tip to tip + eight and a half feet. + +Returning to the north poorer than he started, he ascended the Teoughe +to the hill Sorila, and crossed over a swampy country to the eastward. +Pursuing his course onward to the low-lying basin of the Leeambye, he +saw that it presented no attraction to a pastoral tribe like his, so +he moved down that river among the Bashubia and Batoka, who were +then living in all their glory. His narrative resembled closely the +"Commentaries of Caesar", and the history of the British in India. He +was always forced to attack the different tribes, and to this day his +men justify every step he took as perfectly just and right. The +Batoka lived on large islands in the Leeambye or Zambesi, and, feeling +perfectly secure in their fastnesses, often allured fugitive or +wandering tribes on to uninhabited islets on pretense of ferrying them +across, and there left them to perish for the sake of their goods. +Sekomi, the chief of the Bamangwato, was, when a child, in danger of +meeting this fate; but a man still living had compassion on him, and +enabled his mother to escape with him by night. The river is so large +that the sharpest eye can not tell the difference between an island and +the bend of the opposite bank; but Sebituane, with his usual foresight, +requested the island chief who ferried him across to take his seat in +the canoe with him, and detained him by his side till all his people +and cattle were safely landed. The whole Batoka country was then densely +peopled, and they had a curious taste for ornamenting their villages +with the skulls of strangers. When Sebituane appeared near the great +falls, an immense army collected to make trophies of the Makololo +skulls; but, instead of succeeding in this, they gave him a good excuse +for conquering them, and capturing so many cattle that his people were +quite incapable of taking any note of the sheep and goats. He overran +all the high lands toward the Kafue, and settled in what is called a +pastoral country, of gently undulating plains, covered with short grass +and but little forest. The Makololo have never lost their love for this +fine, healthy region. + +But the Matebele, a Caffre or Zulu tribe, under Mosilikatse, crossed +the Zambesi, and, attacking Sebituane in this choice spot, captured +his cattle and women. Rallying his men, he followed and recaptured the +whole. A fresh attack was also repulsed, and Sebituane thought of going +farther down the Zambesi, to the country of the white men. He had an +idea, whence imbibed I never could learn, that if he had a cannon he +might live in peace. He had led a life of war, yet no one apparently +desired peace more than he did. A prophet induced him to turn his +face again to the westward. This man, by name Tlapane, was called a +"senoga"--one who holds intercourse with the gods. He probably had +a touch of insanity, for he was in the habit of retiring no one knew +whither, but perhaps into some cave, to remain in a hypnotic or mesmeric +state until the moon was full. Then, returning to the tribe quite +emaciated, he excited himself, as others do who pretend to the prophetic +AFFLATUS, until he was in a state of ecstasy. These pretended prophets +commence their operations by violent action of the voluntary muscles. +Stamping, leaping, and shouting in a peculiarly violent manner, or +beating the ground with a club, they induce a kind of fit, and while +in it pretend that their utterances are unknown to themselves. Tlapane, +pointing eastward, said, "There, Sebituane, I behold a fire: shun it; +it is a fire which may scorch thee. The gods say, go not thither." +Then, turning to the west, he said, "I see a city and a nation of black +men--men of the water; their cattle are red; thine own tribe, Sebituane, +is perishing, and will be all consumed; thou wilt govern black men, +and, when thy warriors have captured red cattle, let not the owners be +killed; they are thy future tribe--they are thy city; let them be spared +to cause thee to build. And thou, Ramosinii, thy village will perish +utterly. If Mokari removes from that village he will perish first, and +thou, Ramosinii, wilt be the last to die." Concerning himself he added, +"The gods have caused other men to drink water, but to me they have +given bitter water of the chukuru (rhinoceros). They call me away +myself. I can not stay much longer." + +This vaticination, which loses much in the translation, I have given +rather fully, as it shows an observant mind. The policy recommended was +wise, and the deaths of the "senoga" and of the two men he had named, +added to the destruction of their village, having all happened soon +after, it is not wonderful that Sebituane followed implicitly the +warning voice. The fire pointed to was evidently the Portuguese +fire-arms, of which he must have heard. The black men referred to were +the Barotse, or, as they term themselves, Baloiana; and Sebituane spared +their chiefs, even though they attacked him first. He had ascended the +Barotse valley, but was pursued by the Matebele, as Mosilikatse never +could forgive his former defeats. They came up the river in a very large +body. Sebituane placed some goats on one of the large islands of the +Zambesi as a bait to the warriors, and some men in canoes to co-operate +in the manoeuvre. When they were all ferried over to the island, the +canoes were removed, and the Matebele found themselves completely in a +trap, being perfectly unable to swim. They subsisted for some time on +the roots of grass after the goats were eaten, but gradually became so +emaciated that, when the Makololo landed, they had only to perform the +part of executioners on the adults, and to adopt the rest into their own +tribe. Afterward Mosilikatse was goaded on by his warriors to revenge +this loss; so he sent an immense army, carrying canoes with them, in +order that no such mishap might occur again. Sebituane had by this time +incorporated the Barotse, and taught his young men to manage canoes; so +he went from island to island, and watched the Matebele on the main land +so closely that they could not use their canoes to cross the river any +where without parting their forces. At last all the Makololo and their +cattle were collected on the island of Loyelo, and lay all around, +keeping watch night and day over the enemy. After some time spent in +this way, Sebituane went in a canoe toward them, and, addressing them by +an interpreter, asked why they wished to kill him; he had never attacked +them, never harmed their chief: "Au!" he continued, "the guilt is on +your side." The Matebele made no reply; but the Makololo next day saw +the canoes they had carried so far lying smashed, and the owners gone. +They returned toward their own country, and fever, famine, and +the Batoka completed their destruction; only five men returned to +Mosilikatse. + +Sebituane had now not only conquered all the black tribes over an +immense tract of country, but had made himself dreaded even by the +terrible Mosilikatse. He never could trust this ferocious chief, +however; and, as the Batoka on the islands had been guilty of ferrying +his enemies across the Zambesi, he made a rapid descent upon them, +and swept them all out of their island fastnesses. He thus unwittingly +performed a good service to the country by completely breaking down the +old system which prevented trade from penetrating into the great central +valley. Of the chiefs who escaped, he said, "They love Mosilikatse, let +them live with him: the Zambesi is my line of defense;" and men were +placed all along it as sentinels. When he heard of our wish to visit +him, he did all he could to assist our approach. Sechele, Sekomi, and +Lechulatebe owed their lives to his clemency; and the latter might have +paid dearly for his obstructiveness. Sebituane knew every thing that +happened in the country, for he had the art of gaining the affections +both of his own people and of strangers. When a party of poor men came +to his town to sell their hoes or skins, no matter how ungainly they +might be, he soon knew them all. A company of these indigent strangers, +sitting far apart from the Makololo gentlemen around the chief, would be +surprised to see him come alone to them, and, sitting down, inquire if +they were hungry. He would order an attendant to bring meal, milk, and +honey, and, mixing them in their sight, in order to remove any suspicion +from their minds, make them feast, perhaps for the first time in their +lives, on a lordly dish. Delighted beyond measure with his affability +and liberality, they felt their hearts warm toward him, and gave him +all the information in their power; and as he never allowed a party of +strangers to go away without giving every one of them, servants and all, +a present, his praises were sounded far and wide. "He has a heart! he is +wise!" were the usual expressions we heard before we saw him. + +He was much pleased with the proof of confidence we had shown in +bringing our children, and promised to take us to see his country, so +that we might choose a part in which to locate ourselves. Our plan was, +that I should remain in the pursuit of my objects as a missionary, while +Mr. Oswell explored the Zambesi to the east. Poor Sebituane, however, +just after realizing what he had so long ardently desired, fell sick of +inflammation of the lungs, which originated in and extended from an old +wound got at Melita. I saw his danger, but, being a stranger, I feared +to treat him medically, lest, in the event of his death, I should be +blamed by his people. I mentioned this to one of his doctors, who said, +"Your fear is prudent and wise; this people would blame you." He had +been cured of this complaint, during the year before, by the Barotse +making a large number of free incisions in the chest. The Makololo +doctors, on the other hand, now scarcely cut the skin. On the Sunday +afternoon in which he died, when our usual religious service was over, I +visited him with my little boy Robert. "Come near," said Sebituane, "and +see if I am any longer a man. I am done." He was thus sensible of the +dangerous nature of his disease, so I ventured to assent, and added a +single sentence regarding hope after death. "Why do you speak of death?" +said one of a relay of fresh doctors; "Sebituane will never die." If I +had persisted, the impression would have been produced that by speaking +about it I wished him to die. After sitting with him some time, and +commending him to the mercy of God, I rose to depart, when the dying +chieftain, raising himself up a little from his prone position, called +a servant, and said, "Take Robert to Maunku (one of his wives), and tell +her to give him some milk." These were the last words of Sebituane. + +We were not informed of his death until the next day. The burial of a +Bechuana chief takes place in his cattle-pen, and all the cattle are +driven for an hour or two around and over the grave, so that it may be +quite obliterated. We went and spoke to the people, advising them to +keep together and support the heir. They took this kindly; and in turn +told us not to be alarmed, for they would not think of ascribing the +death of their chief to us; that Sebituane had just gone the way of his +fathers; and though the father had gone, he had left children, and they +hoped that we would be as friendly to his children as we intended to +have been to himself. + +He was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief I ever met. I +never felt so much grieved by the loss of a black man before; and it was +impossible not to follow him in thought into the world of which he had +just heard before he was called away, and to realize somewhat of the +feelings of those who pray for the dead. The deep, dark question of what +is to become of such as he, must, however, be left where we find it, +believing that, assuredly, the "Judge of all the earth will do right." + +At Sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved, as her father intended, +on a daughter named Ma-mochisane. He had promised to show us his country +and to select a suitable locality for our residence. We had now to look +to the daughter, who was living twelve days to the north, at Naliele. +We were obliged, therefore, to remain until a message came from her; +and when it did, she gave us perfect liberty to visit any part of the +country we chose. Mr. Oswell and I then proceeded one hundred and thirty +miles to the northeast, to Sesheke; and in the end of June, 1851, we +were rewarded by the discovery of the Zambesi, in the centre of the +continent. This was a most important point, for that river was not +previously known to exist there at all. The Portuguese maps all +represent it as rising far to the east of where we now were; and if +ever any thing like a chain of trading stations had existed across +the country between the latitudes 12 Deg. and 18 Deg. south, this +magnificent portion of the river must have been known before. We saw it +at the end of the dry season, at the time when the river is about at its +lowest, and yet there was a breadth of from three hundred to six hundred +yards of deep flowing water. Mr. Oswell said he had never seen such a +fine river, even in India. At the period of its annual inundation it +rises fully twenty feet in perpendicular height, and floods fifteen or +twenty miles of lands adjacent to its banks. + +The country over which we had traveled from the Chobe was perfectly +flat, except where there were large ant-hills, or the remains of former +ones, which had left mounds a few feet high. These are generally covered +with wild date-trees and palmyras, and in some parts there are forests +of mimosae and mopane. Occasionally the country between the Chobe and +Zambesi is flooded, and there are large patches of swamps lying near the +Chobe or on its banks. The Makololo were living among these swamps for +the sake of the protection the deep reedy rivers afforded them against +their enemies. + +Now, in reference to a suitable locality for a settlement for myself, +I could not conscientiously ask them to abandon their defenses for my +convenience alone. The healthy districts were defenseless, and the safe +localities were so deleterious to human life, that the original Basutos +had nearly all been cut off by the fever; I therefore feared to subject +my family to the scourge. + +As we were the very first white men the inhabitants had ever seen, we +were visited by prodigious numbers. Among the first who came to see us +was a gentleman who appeared in a gaudy dressing-gown of printed calico. +Many of the Makololo, besides, had garments of blue, green, and red +baize, and also of printed cottons; on inquiry, we learned that these +had been purchased, in exchange for boys, from a tribe called Mambari, +which is situated near Bihe. This tribe began the slave-trade with +Sebituane only in 1850, and but for the unwillingness of Lechulatebe +to allow us to pass, we should have been with Sebituane in time to have +prevented it from commencing at all. The Mambari visited in ancient +times the chief of the Barotse, whom Sebituane conquered, and he refused +to allow any one to sell a child. They never came back again till 1850; +and as they had a number of old Portuguese guns marked "Legitimo +de Braga", which Sebituane thought would be excellent in any future +invasion of Matebele, he offered to purchase them with cattle or ivory, +but the Mambari refused every thing except boys about fourteen years of +age. The Makololo declare they never heard of people being bought and +sold till then, and disliked it, but the desire to possess the guns +prevailed, and eight old guns were exchanged for as many boys; these +were not their own children, but captives of the black races they had +conquered. I have never known in Africa an instance of a parent selling +his own offspring. The Makololo were afterward incited to make a foray +against some tribes to the eastward; the Mambari bargaining to use their +guns in the attack for the captives they might take, and the Makololo +were to have all the cattle. They went off with at least two hundred +slaves that year. During this foray the Makololo met some Arabs from +Zanzibar, who presented them with three English muskets, and in return +received about thirty of their captives. + +In talking with my companions over these matters, the idea was suggested +that, if the slave-market were supplied with articles of European +manufacture by legitimate commerce, the trade in slaves would become +impossible. It seemed more feasible to give the goods, for which the +people now part with their servants, in exchange for ivory and other +products of the country, and thus prevent the trade at the beginning, +than to try to put a stop to it at any of the subsequent steps. This +could only be effected by establishing a highway from the coast into the +centre of the country. + +As there was no hope of the Boers allowing the peaceable instruction +of the natives at Kolobeng, I at once resolved to save my family from +exposure to this unhealthy region by sending them to England, and +to return alone, with a view to exploring the country in search of a +healthy district that might prove a centre of civilization, and open up +the interior by a path to either the east or west coast. This resolution +led me down to the Cape in April, 1852, being the first time during +eleven years that I had visited the scenes of civilization. Our route +to Cape Town led us to pass through the centre of the colony during +the twentieth month of a Caffre war; and if those who periodically pay +enormous sums for these inglorious affairs wish to know how our little +unprotected party could quietly travel through the heart of the colony +to the capital with as little sense or sign of danger as if we had been +in England, they must engage a "'Times' Special Correspondent" for +the next outbreak to explain where the money goes, and who have been +benefited by the blood and treasure expended. + +Having placed my family on board a homeward-bound ship, and promised +to rejoin them in two years, we parted, for, as it subsequently proved, +nearly five years. The Directors of the London Missionary Society +signified their cordial approval of my project by leaving the matter +entirely to my own discretion; and I have much pleasure in acknowledging +my obligations to the gentlemen composing that body for always acting in +an enlightened spirit, and with as much liberality as their constitution +would allow. + +I have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness to the Astronomer +Royal at the Cape, Thomas Maclear, Esq., for enabling me to recall +the little astronomical knowledge which constant manual labor and the +engrossing nature of missionary duties had effaced from my memory, +and in adding much that I did not know before. The promise he made on +parting, that he would examine and correct all my observations, had +more effect in making me persevere in overcoming the difficulties of an +unassisted solitary observer than any thing else; so whatever credit may +be attached to the geographical positions laid down in my route must +be attributed to the voluntary aid of the excellent and laborious +astronomer of the Cape observatory. + +Having given the reader as rapid a sketch as possible of events which +attracted notice between 1840 and 1852, I now proceed to narrate the +incidents of the last and longest journey of all, performed in 1852-6. + + + + +Chapter 5. + +Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest Journey from Cape Town-- +Companions--Wagon-traveling--Physical Divisions of Africa--The +Eastern, Central, and Western Zones--The Kalahari Desert--Its +Vegetation--Increasing Value of the Interior for Colonization-- +Our Route--Dutch Boers--Their Habits--Sterile Appearance of +the District--Failure of Grass--Succeeded by other Plants-- +Vines--Animals--The Boers as Farmers--Migration of Springbucks-- +Wariness of Animals--The Orange River--Territory of the Griquas and +Bechuanas--The Griquas--The Chief Waterboer--His wise and energetic +Government--His Fidelity--Ill-considered Measures of the Colonial +Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder--Success of the +Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas--Manifest Improvement of +the native Character--Dress of the Natives--A full-dress Costume--A +Native's Description of the Natives--Articles of Commerce in the +Country of the Bechuanas--Their Unwillingness to learn, and Readiness +to criticise. + + + +Having sent my family home to England, I started in the beginning of +June, 1852, on my last journey from Cape Town. This journey extended +from the southern extremity of the continent to St. Paul de Loando, the +capital of Angola, on the west coast, and thence across South Central +Africa in an oblique direction to Kilimane (Quilimane) in Eastern +Africa. I proceeded in the usual conveyance of the country, the heavy, +lumbering Cape wagon drawn by ten oxen, and was accompanied by two +Christian Bechuanas from Kuruman--than whom I never saw better servants +any where--by two Bakwain men, and two young girls, who, having come as +nurses with our children to the Cape, were returning to their home at +Kolobeng. Wagon-traveling in Africa has been so often described that +I need say no more than that it is a prolonged system of picnicking, +excellent for the health, and agreeable to those who are not +over-fastidious about trifles, and who delight in being in the open air. + +Our route to the north lay near the centre of the cone-shaped mass of +land which constitutes the promontory of the Cape. If we suppose this +cone to be divided into three zones or longitudinal bands, we find each +presenting distinct peculiarities of climate, physical appearance and +population. These are more marked beyond than within the colony. At +some points one district seems to be continued in and to merge into the +other, but the general dissimilarity warrants the division, as an aid to +memory. The eastern zone is often furnished with mountains, well wooded +with evergreen succulent trees, on which neither fire nor droughts can +have the smallest effect ('Strelitzia', 'Zamia horrida', 'Portulacaria +afra', 'Schotia speciosa', 'Euphorbias', and 'Aloes arborescens'); +and its seaboard gorges are clad with gigantic timber. It is also +comparatively well watered with streams and flowing rivers. The annual +supply of rain is considerable, and the inhabitants (Caffres or Zulus) +are tall, muscular, and well made; they are shrewd, energetic, and +brave; altogether they merit the character given them by military +authorities, of being "magnificent savages". Their splendid physical +development and form of skull show that, but for the black skin and +woolly hair, they would take rank among the foremost Europeans. + +The next division, that which embraces the centre of the continent, +can scarcely be called hilly, for what hills there are are very low. +It consists for the most part of extensive, slightly undulating plains. +There are no lofty mountains, but few springs, and still fewer flowing +streams. Rain is far from abundant, and droughts may be expected every +few years. Without artificial irrigation no European grain can be +raised, and the inhabitants (Bechuanas), though evidently of the same +stock, originally, with those already mentioned, and closely resembling +them in being an agricultural as well as a pastoral people, are a +comparatively timid race, and inferior to the Caffres in physical +development. + +The western division is still more level than the middle one, being +rugged only near the coast. It includes the great plain called +the Kalahari Desert, which is remarkable for little water and very +considerable vegetation. + +The reason, probably, why so little rain falls on this extensive +plain is that the prevailing winds of most of the interior country +are easterly, with a little southing. The moisture taken up by the +atmosphere from the Indian Ocean is deposited on the eastern hilly +slope; and when the moving mass of air reaches its greatest elevation, +it is then on the verge of the great valley, or, as in the case of +the Kalahari, the great heated inland plains; there, meeting with the +rarefied air of that hot, dry surface, the ascending heat gives it +greater capacity for retaining all its remaining humidity, and few +showers can be given to the middle and western lands in consequence of +the increased hygrometric power. + +This is the same phenomenon, on a gigantic scale, as that which takes +place on Table Mountain, at the Cape, in what is called the spreading of +the "table-cloth". The southeast wind causes a mass of air, equal to +the diameter of the mountain, suddenly to ascend at least three thousand +feet; the dilatation produced by altitude, with its attendant cold, +causes the immediate formation of a cloud on the summit; the water in +the atmosphere becomes visible; successive masses of gliding-up and +passing-over air cause the continual formation of clouds, but the top of +the vapory mass, or "table-cloth", is level, and seemingly motionless; +on the lee side, however, the thick volumes of vapor curl over and +descend, but when they reach the point below, where greater density and +higher temperature impart enlarged capacity for carrying water, they +entirely disappear. + +Now if, instead of a hollow on the lee side of Table Mountain, we had +an elevated heated plain, the clouds which curl over that side, and +disappear as they do at present when a "southeaster" is blowing, might +deposit some moisture on the windward ascent and top; but the heat would +then impart the increased capacity the air now receives at the lower +level in its descent to leeward, and, instead of an extended country +with a flora of the 'Disa grandiflora', 'gladiolus', 'rushes', and +'lichens', which now appear on Table Mountain, we should have only the +hardy vegetation of the Kalahari. + +Why there should be so much vegetation on the Kalahari may be explained +by the geological formation of the country. There is a rim or fringe of +ancient rocks round a great central valley, which, dipping inward, form +a basin, the bottom of which is composed of the oldest silurian rocks. +This basin has been burst through and filled up in many parts by +eruptive traps and breccias, which often bear in their substances +angular fragments of the more ancient rocks, as shown in the fossils +they contain. Now, though large areas have been so dislocated that but +little trace of the original valley formation appears, it is highly +probable that the basin shape prevails over large tracts of the country; +and as the strata on the slopes, where most of the rain falls, dip in +toward the centre, they probably guide water beneath the plains but +ill supplied with moisture from the clouds. The phenomenon of stagnant +fountains becoming by a new and deeper outlet never-failing streams may +be confirmatory of the view that water is conveyed from the sides of the +country into the bottom of the central valley; and it is not beyond +the bounds of possibility that the wonderful river system in the north, +which, if native information be correct, causes a considerable increase +of water in the springs called Matlomagan-yana (the Links), extends its +fertilizing influence beneath the plains of the Kalahari. + +The peculiar formation of the country may explain why there is such +a difference in the vegetation between the 20th and 30th parallels of +latitude in South Africa and the same latitudes in Central Australia. +The want of vegetation is as true of some parts too in the centre of +South America as of Australia; and the cause of the difference holds out +a probability for the success of artesian wells in extensive tracts of +Africa now unpeopled solely on account of the want of surface water. +We may be allowed to speculate a little at least on the fact of much +greater vegetation, which, from whatever source it comes, presents for +South Africa prospects of future greatness which we can not hope for +in Central Australia. As the interior districts of the Cape Colony +are daily becoming of higher value, offering to honest industry a fair +remuneration for capital, and having a climate unequaled in salubrity +for consumptive patients, I should unhesitatingly recommend any farmer +at all afraid of that complaint in his family to try this colony. With +the means of education already possessed, and the onward and upward +movement of the Cape population, he need entertain no apprehensions of +his family sinking into barbarism. + +The route we at this time followed ran along the middle, or skirted the +western zone before alluded to, until we reached the latitude of Lake +Ngami, where a totally different country begins. While in the colony, +we passed through districts inhabited by the descendants of Dutch and +French refugees who had fled from religious persecution. Those living +near the capital differ but little from the middle classes in +English counties, and are distinguished by public spirit and general +intelligence; while those situated far from the centres of civilization +are less informed, but are a body of frugal, industrious, and hospitable +peasantry. A most efficient system of public instruction was established +in the time of Governor Sir George Napier, on a plan drawn up in a great +measure by that accomplished philosopher, Sir John Herschel. The system +had to contend with less sectarian rancor than elsewhere; indeed, until +quite recently, that spirit, except in a mild form, was unknown. + +The population here described ought not to be confounded with some +Boers who fled from British rule on account of the emancipation of their +Hottentot slaves, and perhaps never would have been so had not every now +and then some Rip Van Winkle started forth at the Cape to justify in the +public prints the deeds of blood and slave-hunting in the far interior. +It is therefore not to be wondered at if the whole race is confounded +and held in low estimation by those who do not know the real composition +of the Cape community. + +Population among the Boers increases rapidly; they marry soon, are +seldom sterile, and continue to have children late. I once met a worthy +matron whose husband thought it right to imitate the conduct of Abraham +while Sarah was barren; she evidently agreed in the propriety of the +measure, for she was pleased to hear the children by a mother of what +has been thought an inferior race address her as their mother. Orphans +are never allowed to remain long destitute; and instances are frequent +in which a tender-hearted farmer has adopted a fatherless child, and +when it came of age portioned it as his own. + +Two centuries of the South African climate have not had much effect upon +the physical condition of the Boers. They are a shade darker, or +rather ruddier, than Europeans, and are never cadaverous-looking, as +descendants of Europeans are said to be elsewhere. There is a tendency +to the development of steatopyga, so characteristic of Arabs and other +African tribes; and it is probable that the interior Boers in another +century will become in color what the learned imagine our progenitors, +Adam and Eve, to have been. + +The parts of the colony through which we passed were of sterile aspect; +and, as the present winter had been preceded by a severe drought, +many farmers had lost two thirds of their stock. The landscape was +uninviting; the hills, destitute of trees, were of a dark brown color, +and the scanty vegetation on the plains made me feel that they deserved +the name of Desert more than the Kalahari. When first taken possession +of, these parts are said to have been covered with a coating of grass, +but that has disappeared with the antelopes which fed upon it, and +a crop of mesembryanthemums and crassulas occupies its place. It is +curious to observe how, in nature, organizations the most dissimilar +are mutually dependent on each other for their perpetuation. Here the +original grasses were dependent for dissemination on the grass-feeding +animals, which scattered the seeds. When, by the death of the antelopes, +no fresh sowing was made, the African droughts proved too much for +this form of vegetation. But even this contingency was foreseen by +the Omniscient One; for, as we may now observe in the Kalahari Desert, +another family of plants, the mesembryanthemums, stood ready to +neutralize the aridity which must otherwise have followed. This family +of plants possesses seed-vessels which remain firmly shut on their +contents while the soil is hot and dry, and thus preserve the vegetative +power intact during the highest heat of the torrid sun; but when rain +falls, the seed-vessel opens and sheds its contents just when there is +the greatest probability of their vegetating. In other plants heat and +drought cause the seed-vessels to burst and shed their charge. + +One of this family is edible ('Mesembryanthemum edule'); another +possesses a tuberous root, which may be eaten raw; and all are furnished +with thick, fleshy leaves, having pores capable of imbibing and +retaining moisture from a very dry atmosphere and soil, so that, if +a leaf is broken during a period of the greatest drought, it shows +abundant circulating sap. The plants of this family are found much +farther north, but the great abundance of the grasses prevents them from +making any show. There, however, they stand ready to fill up any gap +which may occur in the present prevailing vegetation; and should the +grasses disappear, animal life would not necessarily be destroyed, +because a reserve supply, equivalent to a fresh act of creative power, +has been provided. + +One of this family, 'M. turbiniforme', is so colored as to blend in well +with the hue of the soil and stones around it; and a 'gryllus' of the +same color feeds on it. In the case of the insect, the peculiar color +is given as compensation for the deficiency of the powers of motion to +enable it to elude the notice of birds. The continuation of the species +is here the end in view. In the case of the plant the same device is +adopted for a sort of double end, viz., perpetuation of the plant by +hiding it from animals, with the view that ultimately its extensive +appearance will sustain that race. + +As this new vegetation is better adapted for sheep and goats in a dry +country than grass, the Boers supplant the latter by imitating the +process by which graminivorous antelopes have so abundantly disseminated +the seed of grasses. A few wagon-loads of mesembryanthemum plants, in +seed, are brought to a farm covered with a scanty crop of coarse grass, +and placed on a spot to which the sheep have access in the evenings. As +they eat a little every night, the seeds are dropped over the grazing +grounds in this simple way, with a regularity which could not be matched +except at the cost of an immense amount of labor. The place becomes in +the course of a few years a sheep-farm, as these animals thrive on such +herbage. As already mentioned, some plants of this family are furnished +with an additional contrivance for withstanding droughts, viz., +oblong tubers, which, buried deep enough beneath the soil for complete +protection from the scorching sun, serve as reservoirs of sap and +nutriment during those rainless periods which recur perpetually in even +the most favored spots of Africa. I have adverted to this peculiarity +as often seen in the vegetation of the Desert; and, though rather out of +place, it may be well--while noticing a clever imitation of one +process in nature by the Cape farmers--to suggest another for their +consideration. The country beyond south lat. 18 Deg. abounds in three +varieties of grape-bearing vines, and one of these is furnished with +oblong tubers every three or four inches along the horizontal root. +They resemble closely those of the asparagus. This increase of power to +withstand the effects of climate might prove of value in the more arid +parts of the Cape colony, grapes being well known to be an excellent +restorative in the debility produced by heat: by ingrafting, or by some +of those curious manipulations which we read of in books on gardening, a +variety might be secured better adapted to the country than the foreign +vines at present cultivated. The Americans find that some of their +native vines yield wines superior to those made from the very best +imported vines from France and Portugal. What a boon a vine of the sort +contemplated would have been to a Rhenish missionary I met at a part in +the west of the colony called Ebenezer, whose children had never seen +flowers, though old enough to talk about them! + +The slow pace at which we wound our way through the colony made almost +any subject interesting. The attention is attracted to the names +of different places, because they indicate the former existence of +buffaloes, elands, and elephants, which are now to be found only +hundreds of miles beyond. A few blesbucks ('Antilope pygarga'), gnus, +bluebucks ('A. cerulea'), steinbucks, and the ostrich ('Struthio +camelus'), continue, like the Bushmen, to maintain a precarious +existence when all the rest are gone. The elephant, the most sagacious, +flees the sound of fire-arms first; the gnu and ostrich, the most wary +and the most stupid, last. The first emigrants found the Hottentots in +possession of prodigious herds of fine cattle, but no horses, asses, or +camels. The original cattle, which may still be seen in some parts of +the frontier, must have been brought south from the north-northeast, +for from this point the natives universally ascribe their original +migration. They brought cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs; why not the +horse, the delight of savage hordes? Horses thrive well in the Cape +Colony when imported. Naturalists point out certain mountain ranges +as limiting the habitat of certain classes of animals; but there is +no Cordillera in Africa to answer that purpose, there being no visible +barrier between the northeastern Arabs and the Hottentot tribes to +prevent the different hordes, as they felt their way southward, from +indulging their taste for the possession of this noble animal. + +I am here led to notice an invisible barrier, more insurmountable than +mountain ranges, but which is not opposed to the southern progress of +cattle, goats, and sheep. The tsetse would prove a barrier only until +its well-defined habitat was known, but the disease passing under the +term of horse-sickness (peripneumonia) exists in such virulence over +nearly seven degrees of latitude that no precaution would be sufficient +to save these animals. The horse is so liable to this disease, that only +by great care in stabling can he be kept any where between 20 Deg. +and 27 Deg. S. during the time between December and April. The winter, +beginning in the latter month, is the only period in which Englishmen +can hunt on horseback, and they are in danger of losing all their studs +some months before December. To this disease the horse is especially +exposed, and it is almost always fatal. One attack, however, seems to +secure immunity from a second. Cattle, too, are subject to it, but only +at intervals of a few, sometimes many years; but it never makes a clean +sweep of the whole cattle of a village, as it would do of a troop of +fifty horses. This barrier, then, seems to explain the absence of the +horse among the Hottentots, though it is not opposed to the southern +migration of cattle, sheep, and goats. + +When the flesh of animals that have died of this disease is eaten, it +causes a malignant carbuncle, which, when it appears over any important +organ, proves rapidly fatal. It is more especially dangerous over the +pit of the stomach. The effects of the poison have been experienced +by missionaries who had eaten properly cooked food, the flesh of sheep +really but not visibly affected by the disease. The virus in the flesh +of the animal is destroyed neither by boiling nor roasting. This fact, +of which we have had innumerable examples, shows the superiority of +experiments on a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists +and chemists in the laboratory, for a well known physician of Paris, +after careful investigation, considered that the virus in such cases was +completely neutralized by boiling. + +This disease attacks wild animals too. During our residence at Chonuan +great numbers of tolos, or koodoos, were attracted to the gardens of the +Bakwains, abandoned at the usual period of harvest because there was no +prospect of the corn ('Holcus sorghum') bearing that year. The koodoo is +remarkably fond of the green stalks of this kind of millet. Free feeding +produced that state of fatness favorable for the development of this +disease, and no fewer than twenty-five died on the hill opposite our +house. Great numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause, +but the mortality produced no sensible diminution in the numbers of the +game, any more than the deaths of many of the Bakwains who persisted, +in spite of every remonstrance, in eating the dead meat, caused any +sensible decrease in the strength of the tribe. + +The farms of the Boers consist generally of a small patch of cultivated +land in the midst of some miles of pasturage. They are thus less an +agricultural than a pastoral people. Each farm must have its fountain; +and where no such supply of water exists, the government lands are +unsalable. An acre in England is thus generally more valuable than a +square mile in Africa. But the country is prosperous, and capable of +great improvement. The industry of the Boers augurs well for the future +formation of dams and tanks, and for the greater fruitfulness that would +certainly follow. + +As cattle and sheep farmers the colonists are very successful. Larger +and larger quantities of wool are produced annually, and the value of +colonial farms increases year by year. But the system requires that +with the increase of the population there should be an extension of +territory. Wide as the country is, and thinly inhabited, the farmers +feel it to be too limited, and they are gradually spreading to the +north. This movement proves prejudicial to the country behind, for +labor, which would be directed to the improvement of the colony, is +withdrawn and expended in a mode of life little adapted to the exercise +of industrial habits. That, however, does not much concern the rest of +mankind. Nor does it seem much of an evil for men who cultivate the soil +to claim a right to appropriate lands for tillage which other men only +hunt over, provided some compensation for the loss of sustenance be +awarded. The original idea of a title seems to have been that "subduing" +or cultivating gave that right. But this rather Chartist principle must +be received with limitations, for its recognition in England would lead +to the seizure of all our broad ancestral acres by those who are +willing to cultivate them. And, in the case under consideration, the +encroachments lead at once to less land being put under the plow than +is subjected to the native hoe, for it is a fact that the Basutos and +Zulus, or Caffres of Natal, cultivate largely, and undersell our farmers +wherever they have a fair field and no favor. + +Before we came to the Orange River we saw the last portion of a +migration of springbucks ('Gazella euchore', or tsepe). They come from +the great Kalahari Desert, and, when first seen after crossing the +colonial boundary, are said often to exceed forty thousand in number. I +can not give an estimate of their numbers, for they appear spread over +a vast expanse of country, and make a quivering motion as they feed, and +move, and toss their graceful horns. They feed chiefly on grass; and as +they come from the north about the time when the grass most abounds, +it can not be want of food that prompts the movement. Nor is it want of +water, for this antelope is one of the most abstemious in that respect. +Their nature prompts them to seek as their favorite haunts level plains +with short grass, where they may be able to watch the approach of an +enemy. The Bakalahari take advantage of this feeling, and burn off large +patches of grass, not only to attract the game by the new crop when it +comes up, but also to form bare spots for the springbuck to range over. + +It is not the springbuck alone that manifests this feeling. When oxen +are taken into a country of high grass, they are much more ready to be +startled; their sense of danger is increased by the increased power +of concealment afforded to an enemy by such cover, and they will often +start off in terror at the ill-defined outlines of each other. The +springbuck, possessing this feeling in an intense degree, and being +eminently gregarious, becomes uneasy as the grass of the Kalahari +becomes tall. The vegetation being more sparse in the more arid south, +naturally induces the different herds to turn in that direction. As they +advance and increase in numbers, the pasturage becomes more scarce; it +is still more so the further they go, until they are at last obliged, in +order to obtain the means of subsistence, to cross the Orange River, and +become the pest of the sheep-farmer in a country which contains scarcely +any of their favorite grassy food. If they light on a field of wheat +in their way, an army of locusts could not make a cleaner sweep of the +whole than they will do. It is questionable whether they ever return, as +they have never been seen as a returning body. Many perish from want of +food, the country to which they have migrated being unable to support +them; the rest become scattered over the colony; and in such a +wide country there is no lack of room for all. It is probable that, +notwithstanding the continued destruction by fire-arms, they will +continue long to hold their place. + +On crossing the Orange River we come into independent territory +inhabited by Griquas and Bechuanas. By Griquas is meant any mixed race +sprung from natives and Europeans. Those in question were of Dutch +extraction, through association with Hottentot and Bushwomen. +Half-castes of the first generation consider themselves superior to +those of the second, and all possess in some degree the characteristics +of both parents. They were governed for many years by an elected chief, +named Waterboer, who, by treaty, received a small sum per annum from +the colonial government for the support of schools in his country, and +proved a most efficient guard of our northwest boundary. Cattle-stealing +was totally unknown during the whole period of this able chief's +reign; and he actually drove back, single-handed, a formidable force of +marauding Mantatees that threatened to invade the colony.* But for that +brave Christian man, Waterboer, there is every human probability that +the northwest would have given the colonists as much trouble as the +eastern frontier; for large numbers among the original Griquas had +as little scruple about robbing farmers of cattle as the Caffres are +reputed to have. On the election of Waterboer to the chieftainship, +he distinctly declared THAT NO MARAUDING SHOULD BE ALLOWED. As the +government of none of these tribes is despotic, some of his principal +men, in spite of this declaration, plundered some villages of Corannas +living to the south of the Orange River. He immediately seized six of +the ringleaders, and, though the step put his own position in jeopardy, +he summoned his council, tried, condemned, and publicly executed the +whole six. This produced an insurrection, and the insurgents twice +attacked his capital, Griqua Town, with the intention of deposing him; +but he bravely defeated both attempts, and from that day forth, during +his long reign of thirty years, not a single plundering expedition ever +left his territory. Having witnessed the deleterious effects of the +introduction of ardent spirits among his people, he, with characteristic +energy, decreed that any Boer or Griqua bringing brandy into the country +should have his property in ardent spirits confiscated and poured out on +the ground. The Griqua chiefs living farther east were unable to carry +this law into effect as he did, hence the greater facility with which +Boers in that direction got the Griquas to part with their farms. + + * For an account of this, see Moffat's "Scenes and Labors in + South Africa". + +Ten years after he was firmly established in power he entered into a +treaty with the colonial government, and during the twenty years which +followed not a single charge was ever brought against either him or +his people; on the contrary, his faithful adherence to the stipulated +provisions elicited numerous expressions of approbation from successive +governments. A late governor, however, of whom it is impossible to speak +without respect, in a paroxysm of generalship which might have been +good, had it not been totally inappropriate to the case, set about +conciliating a band of rebellious British subjects (Boers), who murdered +the Honorable Captain Murray, by proclaiming their independence while +still in open rebellion, and not only abrogated the treaty with the +Griquas, but engaged to stop the long-accustomed supplies of gunpowder +for the defense of the frontier, and even to prevent them from +purchasing it for their own defense by lawful trade. + +If it had been necessary to prevent supplies of ammunition from finding +their way into the country, as it probably was, one might imagine that +the exception should not have been made in favor of either Boers or +Caffres, our openly-avowed enemies; but, nevertheless, the exception was +made, and is still continued in favor of the Boers, while the Bechuanas +and Griquas, our constant friends, are debarred from obtaining a +single ounce for either defense or trade; indeed, such was the state of +ignorance as to the relation of the border tribes with the English, even +at Cape Town, that the magistrates, though willing to aid my researches, +were sorely afraid to allow me to purchase more than ten pounds of +gunpowder, lest the Bechuanas should take it from me by force. As it +turned out, I actually left more than that quantity for upward of two +years in an open box in my wagon at Linyanti. + +The lamented Sir George Cathcart, apparently unconscious of what he was +doing, entered into a treaty with the Transvaal Boers, in which articles +were introduced for the free passage of English traders to the north, +and for the entire prohibition of slavery in the free state. Then passed +the "gunpowder ordinance", by which the Bechuanas, whom alone the Boers +dare attempt to enslave, were rendered quite defenseless. The Boers +never attempt to fight with Caffres, nor to settle in Caffreland. We +still continue to observe the treaty. The Boers never did, and +never intended to abide by its provisions; for, immediately on the +proclamation of their independence, a slave-hunt was undertaken against +the Bechuanas of Sechele by four hundred Boers, under Mr. Peit Scholz, +and the plan was adopted which had been cherished in their hearts +ever since the emancipation of the Hottentots. Thus, from unfortunate +ignorance of the country he had to govern, an able and sagacious +governor adopted a policy proper and wise had it been in front of our +enemies, but altogether inappropriate for our friends against whom it +has been applied. Such an error could not have been committed by a man +of local knowledge and experience, such as that noble of colonial birth, +Sir Andries Stockenstrom; and such instances of confounding friend and +foe, in the innocent belief of thereby promoting colonial interests, +will probably lead the Cape community, the chief part of which by no +means feels its interest to lie in the degradation of the native tribes, +to assert the right of choosing their own governors. This, with colonial +representation in the Imperial Parliament, in addition to the local +self-government already so liberally conceded, would undoubtedly secure +the perpetual union of the colony to the English crown. + +Many hundreds of both Griquas and Bechuanas have become Christians and +partially civilized through the teaching of English missionaries. My +first impressions of the progress made were that the accounts of the +effects of the Gospel among them had been too highly colored. I expected +a higher degree of Christian simplicity and purity than exists either +among them or among ourselves. I was not anxious for a deeper insight +in detecting shams than others, but I expected character, such as +we imagine the primitive disciples had--and was disappointed.* When, +however, I passed on to the true heathen in the countries beyond the +sphere of missionary influence, and could compare the people there with +the Christian natives, I came to the conclusion that, if the question +were examined in the most rigidly severe or scientific way, the change +effected by the missionary movement would be considered unquestionably +great. + + * The popular notion, however, of the primitive Church is + perhaps not very accurate. Those societies especially which + consisted of converted Gentiles--men who had been accustomed + to the vices and immoralities of heathenism--were certainly + any thing but pure. In spite of their conversion, some of + them carried the stains and vestiges of their former state + with them when they passed from the temple to the church. If + the instructed and civilized Greek did not all at once rise + out of his former self, and understand and realize the high + ideal of his new faith, we should be careful, in judging of + the work of missionaries among savage tribes, not to apply to + their converts tests and standards of too great severity. If + the scoffing Lucian's account of the impostor Peregrinus may + be believed, we find a church probably planted by the apostles + manifesting less intelligence even than modern missionary + churches. Peregrinus, a notoriously wicked man, was elected + to the chief place among them, while Romish priests, backed by + the power of France, could not find a place at all in the + mission churches of Tahiti and Madagascar. + +We can not fairly compare these poor people with ourselves, who have an +atmosphere of Christianity and enlightened public opinion, the growth of +centuries, around us, to influence our deportment; but let any one +from the natural and proper point of view behold the public morality of +Griqua Town, Kuruman, Likatlong, and other villages, and remember what +even London was a century ago, and he must confess that the Christian +mode of treating aborigines is incomparably the best. + +The Griquas and Bechuanas were in former times clad much like the +Caffres, if such a word may be used where there is scarcely any clothing +at all. A bunch of leather strings about eighteen inches long hung from +the lady's waist in front, and a prepared skin of a sheep or antelope +covered the shoulders, leaving the breast and abdomen bare: the men wore +a patch of skin, about the size of the crown of one's hat, which barely +served for the purposes of decency, and a mantle exactly like that +of the women. To assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the +influence of the sun by day and of the cold by night, all smeared +themselves with a mixture of fat and ochre; the head was anointed with +pounded blue mica schist mixed with fat; and the fine particles of +shining mica, falling on the body and on strings of beads and brass +rings, were considered as highly ornamental, and fit for the most +fastidious dandy. Now these same people come to church in decent though +poor clothing, and behave with a decorum certainly superior to what +seems to have been the case in the time of Mr. Samuel Pepys in London. +Sunday is well observed, and, even in localities where no missionary +lives, religious meetings are regularly held, and children and adults +taught to read by the more advanced of their own fellow-countrymen; and +no one is allowed to make a profession of faith by baptism unless he +knows how to read, and understands the nature of the Christian religion. + +The Bechuana Mission has been so far successful that, when coming from +the interior, we always felt, on reaching Kuruman, that we had returned +to civilized life. But I would not give any one to understand by this +that they are model Christians--we can not claim to be model Christians +ourselves--or even in any degree superior to the members of our country +churches. They are more stingy and greedy than the poor at home; but in +many respects the two are exactly alike. On asking an intelligent chief +what he thought of them, he replied, "You white men have no idea of how +wicked we are; we know each other better than you; some feign belief to +ingratiate themselves with the missionaries; some profess Christianity +because they like the new system, which gives so much more importance to +the poor, and desire that the old system may pass away; and the rest--a +pretty large number--profess because they are really true believers." +This testimony may be considered as very nearly correct. + +There is not much prospect of this country ever producing much of the +materials of commerce except wool. At present the chief articles of +trade are karosses or mantles--the skins of which they are composed come +from the Desert; next to them, ivory, the quantity of which can not +now be great, inasmuch as the means of shooting elephants is sedulously +debarred entrance into the country. A few skins and horns, and some +cattle, make up the remainder of the exports. English goods, sugar, tea, +and coffee are the articles received in exchange. All the natives +of these parts soon become remarkably fond of coffee. The acme of +respectability among the Bechuanas is the possession of cattle and +a wagon. It is remarkable that, though these latter require frequent +repairs, none of the Bechuanas have ever learned to mend them. Forges +and tools have been at their service, and teachers willing to aid them, +but, beyond putting together a camp-stool, no effort has ever been made +to acquire a knowledge of the trades. They observe most carefully a +missionary at work until they understand whether a tire is well welded +or not, and then pronounce upon its merits with great emphasis, but +there their ambition rests satisfied. It is the same peculiarity among +ourselves which leads us in other matters, such as book-making, to +attain the excellence of fault-finding without the wit to indite a page. +It was in vain I tried to indoctrinate the Bechuanas with the idea +that criticism did not imply any superiority over the workman, or even +equality with him. + + + + +Chapter 6. + +Kuruman--Its fine Fountain--Vegetation of the District--Remains +of ancient Forests--Vegetable Poison--The Bible translated by +Mr. Moffat--Capabilities of the Language--Christianity among the +Natives--The Missionaries should extend their Labors more beyond the +Cape Colony--Model Christians--Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on +the Bakwains--Letter from Sechele--Details of the Attack--Numbers of +School-children carried away into Slavery--Destruction of House and +Property at Kolobeng--The Boers vow Vengeance against me--Consequent +Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Journey--Start in +November, 1852--Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain Redress +from the Queen--He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape--Meet Mr. +Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami--The hot Wind of the +Desert--Electric State of the Atmosphere--Flock of Swifts--Reach +Litubaruba--The Cave Lepelole--Superstitions regarding it--Impoverished +State of the Bakwains--Retaliation on the Boers--Slavery--Attachment +of the Bechuanas to Children--Hydrophobia unknown--Diseases of +the Bakwains few in number--Yearly Epidemics--Hasty +Burials--Ophthalmia--Native Doctors--Knowledge of Surgery at a very low +Ebb--Little Attendance given to Women at their Confinements--The "Child +Medicine"--Salubrity of the Climate well adapted for Invalids suffering +from pulmonary Complaints. + + + +The permanence of the station called Kuruman depends entirely on the +fine ever-flowing fountain of that name. It comes from beneath the +trap-rock, of which I shall have to speak when describing the geology of +the entire country; and as it usually issues at a temperature of 72 Deg. +Fahr., it probably comes from the old silurian schists, which formed the +bottom of the great primeval valley of the continent. I could not detect +any diminution in the flow of this gushing fountain during my residence +in the country; but when Mr. Moffat first attempted a settlement here, +thirty-five years ago, he made a dam six or seven miles below the +present one, and led out the stream for irrigation, where not a drop of +the fountain-water ever now flows. Other parts, fourteen miles below the +Kuruman gardens, are pointed out as having contained, within the memory +of people now living, hippopotami, and pools sufficient to drown both +men and cattle. This failure of water must be chiefly ascribed to the +general desiccation of the country, but partly also to the amount of +irrigation carried on along both banks of the stream at the mission +station. This latter circumstance would have more weight were it not +coincident with the failure of fountains over a wide extent of country. + +Without at present entering minutely into this feature of the climate, +it may be remarked that the Kuruman district presents evidence of +this dry southern region having, at no very distant date, been as well +watered as the country north of Lake Ngami is now. Ancient river-beds +and water-courses abound, and the very eyes of fountains long since +dried up may be seen, in which the flow of centuries has worn these +orifices from a slit to an oval form, having on their sides the tufa +so abundantly deposited from these primitive waters; and just where the +splashings, made when the stream fell on the rock below, may be supposed +to have reached and evaporated, the same phenomenon appears. Many of +these failing fountains no longer flow, because the brink over which +they ran is now too high, or because the elevation of the western side +of the country lifts the land away from the water supply below; but let +a cutting be made from a lower level than the brink, and through it to +a part below the surface of the water, and water flows perennially. +Several of these ancient fountains have been resuscitated by the +Bechuanas near Kuruman, who occasionally show their feelings of +self-esteem by laboring for months at deep cuttings, which, having +once begun, they feel bound in honor to persevere in, though told by a +missionary that they can never force water to run up hill. + +It is interesting to observe the industry of many Boers in this region +in making long and deep canals from lower levels up to spots destitute +of the slightest indication of water existing beneath except a few +rushes and a peculiar kind of coarse, reddish-colored grass growing in a +hollow, which anciently must have been the eye of a fountain, but is now +filled up with soft tufa. In other instances, the indication of water +below consists of the rushes growing on a long, sandy ridge a foot or +two in height instead of in a furrow. A deep transverse cutting made +through the higher part of this is rewarded by a stream of running +water. The reason why the ground covering this water is higher than the +rest of the locality is that the winds carry quantities of fine dust and +sand about the country, and hedges, bushes, and trees cause its deposit. +The rushes in this case perform the part of the hedges, and the moisture +rising as dew by night fixes the sand securely among the roots, and a +height, instead of a hollow, is the result. While on this subject it may +be added that there is no perennial fountain in this part of the +country except those that come from beneath the quartzose trap, which +constitutes the "filling up" of the ancient valley; and as the water +supply seems to rest on the old silurian schists which form its bottom, +it is highly probable that Artesian wells would in several places +perform the part which these deep cuttings now do. + +The aspect of this part of the country during most of the year is of a +light yellow color; for some months during the rainy season it is of a +pleasant green mixed with yellow. Ranges of hills appear in the west, +but east of them we find hundreds of miles of grass-covered plains. +Large patches of these flats are covered with white calcareous tufa +resting on perfectly horizontal strata of trap. There the vegetation +consists of fine grass growing in tufts among low bushes of the +"wait-a-bit" thorn ('Acacia detinens'), with its annoying fish-hook-like +spines. Where these rocks do not appear on the surface, the soil +consists of yellow sand and tall, coarse grasses, growing among +berry-yielding bushes, named moretloa ('Grewia flava') and mohatla +('Tarchonanthus'), which has enough of aromatic resinous matter to burn +brightly, though perfectly green. In more sheltered spots we come +on clumps of the white-thorned mimosa ('Acacia horrida', also 'A. +atomiphylla'), and great abundance of wild sage ('Salvia Africana'), and +various leguminosae, ixias, and large-flowering bulbs: the 'Amaryllis +toxicaria' and 'A. Brunsvigia multiflora' (the former a poisonous bulb) +yield in the decayed lamellae a soft, silky down, a good material for +stuffing mattresses. + +In some few parts of the country the remains of ancient forests of wild +olive-trees ('Olea similis') and of the camel-thorn ('Acacia giraffe') +are still to be met with; but when these are leveled in the proximity of +a Bechuana village, no young trees spring up to take their places. This +is not because the wood has a growth so slow as not to be appreciable +in its increase during the short period that it can be observed by man, +which might be supposed from its being so excessively hard; for having +measured a young tree of this species growing in the corner of Mr. +Moffat's garden near the water, I found that it increased at the rate +of a quarter of an inch in diameter annually during a number of years. +Moreover, the larger specimens, which now find few or no successors, if +they had more rain in their youth, can not be above two or three hundred +years old. + +It is probable that this is the tree of which the Ark of the Covenant +and the Tabernacle were constructed, as it is reported to be found where +the Israelites were at the time these were made. It is an imperishable +wood, while that usually pointed out as the "shittim" (or 'Acacia +nilotica') soon decays and wants beauty. + +In association with it we always observe a curious plant, named +ngotuane, which bears such a profusion of fine yellow strong-scented +flowers as quite to perfume the air. This plant forms a remarkable +exception to the general rule, that nearly all the plants in the dry +parts of Africa are scentless, or emit only a disagreeable odor. It, +moreover, contains an active poison; a French gentleman, having imbibed +a mouthful or two of an infusion of its flowers as tea, found himself +rendered nearly powerless. Vinegar has the peculiar property of +rendering this poison perfectly inert, whether in or out of the body. +When mixed with vinegar, the poison may be drunk with safety, while, if +only tasted by itself, it causes a burning sensation in the throat. +This gentleman described the action of the vinegar, when he was nearly +deprived of power by the poison imbibed, to have been as if electricity +had run along his nerves as soon as he had taken a single glassful. +The cure was instantaneous and complete. I had always to regret want of +opportunity for investigating this remarkable and yet controllable agent +on the nervous system. Its usual proximity to camel-thorn-trees may be +accounted for by the PROBABILITY that the giraffe, which feeds on this +tree, MAY make use of the plant as a medicine. + +During the period of my visit at Kuruman, Mr. Moffat, who has been a +missionary in Africa during upward of forty years, and is well known by +his interesting work, "Scenes and Labors in South Africa", was busily +engaged in carrying through the press, with which his station is +furnished, the Bible in the language of the Bechuanas, which is called +Sichuana. This has been a work of immense labor; and as he was the first +to reduce their speech to a written form, and has had his attention +directed to the study for at least thirty years, he may be supposed to +be better adapted for the task than any man living. Some idea of the +copiousness of the language may be formed from the fact that even he +never spends a week at his work without discovering new words; the +phenomenon, therefore, of any man who, after a few months' or years' +study of a native tongue, cackles forth a torrent of vocables, may well +be wondered at, if it is meant to convey instruction. In my own case, +though I have had as much intercourse with the purest idiom as most +Englishmen, and have studied the language carefully, yet I can never +utter an important statement without doing so very slowly, and repeating +it too, lest the foreign accent, which is distinctly perceptible in all +Europeans, should render the sense unintelligible. In this I follow the +example of the Bechuana orators, who, on important matters, always speak +slowly, deliberately, and with reiteration. The capabilities of this +language may be inferred from the fact that the Pentateuch is fully +expressed in Mr. Moffat's translation in fewer words than in the Greek +Septuagint, and in a very considerably smaller number than in our +own English version. The language is, however, so simple in its +construction, that its copiousness by no means requires the explanation +that the people have fallen from a former state of civilization and +culture. Language seems to be an attribute of the human mind and +thought; and the inflections, various as they are in the most barbarous +tongues, as that of the Bushmen, are probably only proofs of the +race being human, and endowed with the power of thinking; the fuller +development of language taking place as the improvement of our other +faculties goes on. It is fortunate that the translation of the Bible has +been effected before the language became adulterated with half-uttered +foreign words, and while those who have heard the eloquence of the +native assemblies are still living; for the young, who are brought up +in our schools, know less of the language than the missionaries; and +Europeans born in the country, while possessed of the idiom perfectly, +if not otherwise educated, can not be referred to for explanation of any +uncommon word. A person who acted as interpreter to Sir George Cathcart +actually told his excellency that the language of the Basutos was not +capable of expressing the substance of a chief's diplomatic paper, while +every one acquainted with Moshesh, the chief who sent it, well knows +that he could in his own tongue have expressed it without study all over +again in three or four different ways. The interpreter could scarcely +have done as much in English. + +This language both rich and poor speak correctly; there is no vulgar +style; but children have a 'patois' of their own, using many words in +their play which men would scorn to repeat. The Bamapela have adopted +a click into their dialect, and a large infusion of the ringing "ny", +which seems to have been for the purpose of preventing others from +understanding them. + +The fact of the complete translation of the Bible at a station seven +hundred miles inland from the Cape naturally suggests the question +whether it is likely to be permanently useful, and whether Christianity, +as planted by modern missions, is likely to retain its vitality without +constant supplies of foreign teaching? It would certainly be no cause +for congratulation if the Bechuana Bible seemed at all likely to meet +the fate of Elliot's Choctaw version, a specimen of which may be seen in +the library of one of the American colleges--as God's word in a language +which no living tongue can articulate, nor living mortal understand; but +a better destiny seems in store for this, for the Sichuana language has +been introduced into the new country beyond Lake Ngami. There it is the +court language, and will take a stranger any where through a district +larger than France. The Bechuanas, moreover, in all probability possess +that imperishability which forms so remarkable a feature in the entire +African race. + +When converts are made from heathenism by modern missionaries, it +becomes an interesting question whether their faith possesses +the elements of permanence, or is only an exotic too tender for +self-propagation when the fostering care of the foreign cultivators +is withdrawn. If neither habits of self-reliance are cultivated, nor +opportunities given for the exercise of that virtue, the most promising +converts are apt to become like spoiled children. In Madagascar, a few +Christians were left with nothing but the Bible in their hands; and +though exposed to persecution, and even death itself, as the penalty of +adherence to their profession, they increased ten-fold in numbers, and +are, if possible, more decided believers now than they were when, by +an edict of the queen of that island, the missionaries ceased their +teaching. + +In South Africa such an experiment could not be made, for such a variety +of Christian sects have followed the footsteps of the London Missionary +Society's successful career, that converts of one denomination, if left +to their own resources, are eagerly adopted by another, and are thus +more likely to become spoiled than trained to the manly Christian +virtues. + +Another element of weakness in this part of the missionary field is the +fact of the missionary societies considering the Cape Colony itself as +a proper sphere for their peculiar operations. In addition to a +well-organized and efficient Dutch Reformed Established Church, and +schools for secular instruction, maintained by government, in every +village of any extent in the colony, we have a number of other sects, +as the Wesleyans, Episcopalians, Moravians, all piously laboring at the +same good work. Now it is deeply to be regretted that so much honest +zeal should be so lavishly expended in a district wherein there is so +little scope for success. When we hear an agent of one sect urging his +friends at home to aid him quickly to occupy some unimportant nook, +because, if it is not speedily laid hold of, he will "not have room for +the sole of his foot," one can not help longing that both he and his +friends would direct their noble aspirations to the millions of untaught +heathen in the regions beyond, and no longer continue to convert the +extremity of the continent into, as it were, a dam of benevolence. + +I would earnestly recommend all young missionaries to go at once to the +real heathen, and never to be content with what has been made ready +to their hands by men of greater enterprise. The idea of making model +Christians of the young need not be entertained by any one who is +secretly convinced, as most men who know their own hearts are, that he +is not a model Christian himself. The Israelitish slaves brought out of +Egypt by Moses were not converted and elevated in one generation, though +under the direct teaching of God himself. Notwithstanding the numbers of +miracles he wrought, a generation had to be cut off because of +unbelief. Our own elevation, also, has been the work of centuries, and, +remembering this, we should not indulge in overwrought expectations as +to the elevation which those who have inherited the degradation of ages +may attain in our day. The principle might even be adopted by missionary +societies, that one ordinary missionary's lifetime of teaching should +be considered an ample supply of foreign teaching for any tribe in a +thinly-peopled country, for some never will receive the Gospel at all, +while in other parts, when Christianity is once planted, the work is +sure to go on. A missionary is soon known to be supported by his friends +at home; and though the salary is but a bare subsistence, to Africans +it seems an enormous sum; and, being unable to appreciate the motives +by which he is actuated, they consider themselves entitled to various +services at his hands, and defrauded if these are not duly rendered. +This feeling is all the stronger when a young man, instead of going +boldly to the real heathen, settles down in a comfortable house and +garden prepared by those into whose labors he has entered. A remedy for +this evil might be found in appropriating the houses and gardens raised +by the missionaries' hands to their own families. It is ridiculous +to call such places as Kuruman, for instance, "Missionary Society's +property". This beautiful station was made what it is, not by English +money, but by the sweat and toil of fathers whose children have, +notwithstanding, no place on earth which they can call a home. The +Society's operations may be transferred to the north, and then the +strong-built mission premises become the home of a Boer, and the stately +stone church his cattle-pen. This place has been what the monasteries +of Europe are said to have been when pure. The monks did not disdain to +hold the plow. They introduced fruit-trees, flowers, and vegetables, in +addition to teaching and emancipating the serfs. Their monasteries were +mission stations, which resembled ours in being dispensaries for the +sick, almshouses for the poor, and nurseries of learning. Can we learn +nothing from them in their prosperity as the schools of Europe, and see +naught in their history but the pollution and laziness of their decay? +Can our wise men tell us why the former mission stations (primitive +monasteries) were self-supporting, rich, and flourishing as pioneers of +civilization and agriculture, from which we even now reap benefits, and +modern mission stations are mere pauper establishments, without that +permanence or ability to be self-supporting which they possessed? + +Protestant missionaries of every denomination in South Africa all agree +in one point, that no mere profession of Christianity is sufficient +to entitle the converts to the Christian name. They are all anxious to +place the Bible in the hands of the natives, and, with ability to +read that, there can be little doubt as to the future. We believe +Christianity to be divine, and equal to all it has to perform; then let +the good seed be widely sown, and, no matter to what sect the converts +may belong, the harvest will be glorious. Let nothing that I have +said be interpreted as indicative of feelings inimical to any body +of Christians, for I never, as a missionary, felt myself to be either +Presbyterian, Episcopalian, or Independent, or called upon in any way +to love one denomination less than another. My earnest desire is, that +those who really have the best interests of the heathen at heart should +go to them; and assuredly, in Africa at least, self-denying labors among +real heathen will not fail to be appreciated. Christians have never yet +dealt fairly by the heathen and been disappointed. + +When Sechele understood that we could no longer remain with him +at Kolobeng, he sent his children to Mr. Moffat, at Kuruman, for +instruction in all the knowledge of the white men. Mr. Moffat very +liberally received at once an accession of five to his family, with +their attendants. + +Having been detained at Kuruman about a fortnight by the breaking of a +wagon-wheel, I was thus providentially prevented from being present +at the attack of the Boers on the Bakwains, news of which was brought, +about the end of that time, by Masebele, the wife of Sechele. She had +herself been hidden in a cleft of a rock, over which a number of Boers +were firing. Her infant began to cry, and, terrified lest this should +attract the attention of the men, the muzzles of whose guns appeared at +every discharge over her head, she took off her armlets as playthings +to quiet the child. She brought Mr. Moffat a letter, which tells its own +tale. Nearly literally translated it was as follows: + + +"Friend of my heart's love, and of all the confidence of my heart, I +am Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who attacked me, though I had no +guilt with them. They demanded that I should be in their kingdom, and +I refused. They demanded that I should prevent the English and Griquas +from passing (northward). I replied, These are my friends, and I can +prevent no one (of them). They came on Saturday, and I besought them not +to fight on Sunday, and they assented. They began on Monday morning at +twilight, and fired with all their might, and burned the town with fire, +and scattered us. They killed sixty of my people, and captured women, +and children, and men. And the mother of Baleriling (a former wife of +Sechele) they also took prisoner. They took all the cattle and all the +goods of the Bakwains; and the house of Livingstone they plundered, +taking away all his goods. The number of wagons they had was +eighty-five, and a cannon; and after they had stolen my own wagon and +that of Macabe, then the number of their wagons (counting the cannon +as one) was eighty-eight. All the goods of the hunters (certain English +gentlemen hunting and exploring in the north) were burned in the town; +and of the Boers were killed twenty-eight. Yes, my beloved friend, now +my wife goes to see the children, and Kobus Hae will convey her to you. +I am, SECHELE, The Son of Mochoasele." + + +This statement is in exact accordance with the account given by +the native teacher Mebalwe, and also that sent by some of the Boers +themselves to the public colonial papers. The crime of cattle-stealing, +of which we hear so much near Caffreland, was never alleged against +these people, and, if a single case had occurred when I was in the +country, I must have heard of it, and would at once say so. But the only +crime imputed in the papers was that "Sechele was getting too saucy." +The demand made for his subjection and service in preventing the English +traders passing to the north was kept out of view. + +Very soon after Pretorius had sent the marauding party against Kolobeng, +he was called away to the tribunal of infinite justice. His policy is +justified by the Boers generally from the instructions given to the +Jewish warriors in Deuteronomy 20:10-14. Hence, when he died, the +obituary notice ended with "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord." I +wish he had not "forbidden us to preach unto the Gentiles that they may +be saved." + +The report of this outrage on the Bakwains, coupled with denunciations +against myself for having, as it was alleged, taught them to kill Boers, +produced such a panic in the country, that I could not engage a single +servant to accompany me to the north. I have already alluded to their +mode of warfare, and in all previous Boerish forays the killing had all +been on one side; now, however, that a tribe where an Englishman had +lived had begun to shed THEIR blood as well, it was considered the +strongest presumptive evidence against me. Loud vows of vengeance were +uttered against my head, and threats of instant pursuit by a large party +on horseback, should I dare to go into or beyond their country; and as +these were coupled with the declaration that the English government +had given over the whole of the native tribes to their rule, and would +assist in their entire subjection by preventing fire-arms and ammunition +from entering the country, except for the use of the Boers, it was not +to be wondered at that I was detained for months at Kuruman from sheer +inability to get wagon-drivers. The English name, from being honored and +respected all over the country, had become somewhat more than suspected; +and as the policy of depriving those friendly tribes of the means of +defense was represented by the Boers as proof positive of the wish of +the English that they should be subjugated, the conduct of a government +which these tribes always thought the paragon of justice and friendship +was rendered totally incomprehensible to them; they could neither defend +themselves against their enemies, nor shoot the animals in the produce +of which we wished them to trade. + +At last I found three servants willing to risk a journey to the north; +and a man of color named George Fleming, who had generously been +assisted by Mr. H. E. Rutherford, a mercantile gentleman of Cape Town, +to endeavor to establish a trade with the Makololo, had also managed +to get a similar number; we accordingly left Kuruman on the 20th of +November, and proceeded on our journey. Our servants were the worst +possible specimens of those who imbibe the vices without the virtues of +Europeans, but we had no choice, and were glad to get away on any terms. + +When we reached Motito, forty miles off, we met Sechele on his way, as +he said, "to the Queen of England." Two of his own children, and their +mother, a former wife, were among the captives seized by the Boers; and +being strongly imbued with the then very prevalent notion of England's +justice and generosity, he thought that in consequence of the violated +treaty he had a fair case to lay before her majesty. He employed all his +eloquence and powers of persuasion to induce me to accompany him, but I +excused myself on the ground that my arrangements were already made +for exploring the north. On explaining the difficulties of the way, +and endeavoring to dissuade him from the attempt, on account of the +knowledge I possessed of the governor's policy, he put the pointed +question, "Will the queen not listen to me, supposing I should reach +her?" I replied, "I believe she would listen, but the difficulty is +to get to her." "Well, I shall reach her," expressed his final +determination. Others explained the difficulties more fully, but nothing +could shake his resolution. When he reached Bloemfontein he found the +English army just returning from a battle with the Basutos, in which +both parties claimed the victory, and both were glad that a second +engagement was not tried. Our officers invited Sechele to dine with +them, heard his story, and collected a handsome sum of money to enable +him to pursue his journey to England. The commander refrained from +noticing him, as a single word in favor of the restoration of the +children of Sechele would have been a virtual confession of the failure +of his own policy at the very outset. Sechele proceeded as far as the +Cape; but his resources being there expended, he was obliged to return +to his own country, one thousand miles distant, without accomplishing +the object of his journey. + +On his return he adopted a mode of punishment which he had seen in the +colony, namely, making criminals work on the public roads. And he has +since, I am informed, made himself the missionary to his own people. +He is tall, rather corpulent, and has more of the negro feature than +common, but has large eyes. He is very dark, and his people swear by +"Black Sechele". He has great intelligence, reads well, and is a fluent +speaker. Great numbers of the tribes formerly living under the Boers +have taken refuge under his sway, and he is now greater in power than he +was before the attack on Kolobeng. + +Having parted with Sechele, we skirted along the Kalahari Desert, and +sometimes within its borders, giving the Boers a wide berth. A +larger fall of rain than usual had occurred in 1852, and that was the +completion of a cycle of eleven or twelve years, at which the same +phenomenon is reported to have happened on three occasions. An unusually +large crop of melons had appeared in consequence. We had the pleasure +of meeting with Mr. J. Macabe returning from Lake Ngami, which he had +succeeded in reaching by going right across the Desert from a point +a little to the south of Kolobeng. The accounts of the abundance of +watermelons were amply confirmed by this energetic traveler; for, having +these in vast quantities, his cattle subsisted on the fluid contained in +them for a period of no less than twenty-one days; and when at last +they reached a supply of water, they did not seem to care much about it. +Coming to the lake from the southeast, he crossed the Teoughe, and went +round the northern part of it, and is the only European traveler who had +actually seen it all. His estimate of the extent of the lake is higher +than that given by Mr. Oswell and myself, or from about ninety to one +hundred miles in circumference. Before the lake was discovered, Macabe +wrote a letter in one of the Cape papers recommending a certain route +as likely to lead to it. The Transvaal Boers fined him 500 dollars for +writing about "ouze felt", OUR country, and imprisoned him, too, till +the fine was paid. I now learned from his own lips that the public +report of this is true. Mr. Macabe's companion, Mahar, was mistaken by a +tribe of Barolongs for a Boer, and shot as he approached their village. +When Macabe came up and explained that he was an Englishman, they +expressed the utmost regret, and helped to bury him. This was the first +case in recent times of an Englishman being slain by the Bechuanas. +We afterward heard that there had been some fighting between these +Barolongs and the Boers, and that there had been capturing of cattle on +both sides. If this was true, I can only say that it was the first time +that I ever heard of cattle being taken by Bechuanas. This was a Caffre +war in stage the second; the third stage in the development is when both +sides are equally well armed and afraid of each other; the fourth, when +the English take up a quarrel not their own, and the Boers slip out of +the fray. + +Two other English gentlemen crossed and recrossed the Desert about the +same time, and nearly in the same direction. On returning, one of them, +Captain Shelley, while riding forward on horseback, lost himself, and +was obliged to find his way alone to Kuruman, some hundreds of miles +distant. Reaching that station shirtless, and as brown as a Griqua, +he was taken for one by Mrs. Moffat, and was received by her with a +salutation in Dutch, that being the language spoken by this people. +His sufferings must have been far more severe than any we endured. The +result of the exertions of both Shelley and Macabe is to prove that +the general view of the Desert always given by the natives has been +substantially correct. + +Occasionally, during the very dry seasons which succeed our winter and +precede our rains, a hot wind blows over the Desert from north to south. +It feels somewhat as if it came from an oven, and seldom blows longer at +a time than three days. It resembles in its effects the harmattan of the +north of Africa, and at the time the missionaries first settled in the +country, thirty-five years ago, it came loaded with fine reddish-colored +sand. Though no longer accompanied by sand, it is so devoid of moisture +as to cause the wood of the best seasoned English boxes and furniture to +shrink, so that every wooden article not made in the country is warped. +The verls of ramrods made in England are loosened, and on returning to +Europe fasten again. This wind is in such an electric state that a bunch +of ostrich feathers held a few seconds against it becomes as strongly +charged as if attached to a powerful electrical machine, and clasps the +advancing hand with a sharp crackling sound. + +When this hot wind is blowing, and even at other times, the peculiarly +strong electrical state of the atmosphere causes the movement of a +native in his kaross to produce therein a stream of small sparks. The +first time I noticed this appearance was while a chief was traveling +with me in my wagon. Seeing part of the fur of his mantle, which was +exposed to slight friction by the movement of the wagon, assume quite +a luminous appearance, I rubbed it smartly with the hand, and found it +readily gave out bright sparks, accompanied with distinct cracks. "Don't +you see this?" said I. "The white men did not show us this," he replied; +"we had it long before white men came into the country, we and our +forefathers of old." Unfortunately, I never inquired the name which they +gave to this appearance, but I have no doubt there is one for it in the +language. Otto von Guerrike is said, by Baron Humboldt, to have been the +first that ever observed this effect in Europe, but the phenomenon had +been familiar to the Bechuanas for ages. Nothing came of that, however, +for they viewed the sight as if with the eyes of an ox. The human mind +has remained here as stagnant to the present day, in reference to the +physical operations of the universe, as it once did in England. No +science has been developed, and few questions are ever discussed except +those which have an intimate connection with the wants of the stomach. + +Very large flocks of swifts ('Cypselus apus') were observed flying over +the plains north of Kuruman. I counted a stream of them, which, by the +time it took to pass toward the reeds of that valley, must have numbered +upward of four thousand. Only a few of these birds breed at any time in +this country. I have often observed them, and noticed that there was no +appearance of their having paired; there was no chasing of each other, +nor any playing together. There are several other birds which continue +in flocks, and move about like wandering gipsies, even during the +breeding season, which in this country happens in the intervals between +the cold and hot seasons, cold acting somewhat in the same way here +as the genial warmth of spring does in Europe. Are these the migratory +birds of Europe, which return there to breed and rear their young? + +On the 31st of December, 1852, we reached the town of Sechele, called, +from the part of the range on which it is situated, Litubaruba. Near +the village there exists a cave named Lepelole; it is an interesting +evidence of the former existence of a gushing fountain. No one dared to +enter the Lohaheng, or cave, for it was the common belief that it was +the habitation of the Deity. As we never had a holiday from January to +December, and our Sundays were the periods of our greatest exertions in +teaching, I projected an excursion into the cave on a week-day to see +the god of the Bakwains. The old men said that every one who went in +remained there forever, adding, "If the teacher is so mad as to kill +himself, let him do so alone, we shall not be to blame." The declaration +of Sechele, that he would follow where I led, produced the greatest +consternation. It is curious that in all their pretended dreams or +visions of their god he has always a crooked leg, like the Egyptian +Thau. Supposing that those who were reported to have perished in this +cave had fallen over some precipice, we went well provided with lights, +ladder, lines, &c.; but it turned out to be only an open cave, with +an entrance about ten feet square, which contracts into two water-worn +branches, ending in round orifices through which the water once flowed. +The only inhabitants it seems ever to have had were baboons. I left +at the end of the upper branch one of Father Mathew's leaden teetotal +tickets. + +I never saw the Bakwains looking so haggard and lean as at this time. +Most of their cattle had been swept away by the Boers, together with +about eighty fine draught oxen; and much provision left with them by +two officers, Captains Codrington and Webb, to serve for their return +journey south, had been carried off also. On their return these officers +found the skeletons of the Bakwains where they expected to find their +own goods. All the corn, clothing, and furniture of the people, too, +had been consumed in the flames which the Boers had forced the subject +tribes to apply to the town during the fight, so that its inhabitants +were now literally starving. + +Sechele had given orders to his people not to commit any act of revenge +pending his visit to the Queen of England; but some of the young men +ventured to go to meet a party of Boers returning from hunting, and, +as the Boers became terrified and ran off, they brought their wagons to +Litubaruba. This seems to have given the main body of Boers an idea that +the Bakwains meant to begin a guerrilla war upon them. This "Caffre war" +was, however, only in embryo, and not near that stage of development in +which the natives have found out that the hide-and-seek system is the +most successful. + +The Boers, in alarm, sent four of their number to ask for peace! I, +being present, heard the condition: "Sechele's children must be restored +to him." I never saw men so completely and unconsciously in a trap as +these four Boers were. Strong parties of armed Bakwains occupied every +pass in the hills and gorges around; and had they not promised much more +than they intended, or did perform, that day would have been their last. +The commandant Scholz had appropriated the children of Sechele to be his +own domestic slaves. I was present when one little boy, Khari, son of +Sechele, was returned to his mother; the child had been allowed to +roll into the fire, and there were three large unbound open sores on +different parts of his body. His mother and the women received him with +a flood of silent tears. + +Slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in some places. The Boers +assert that they are the best of masters, and that, if the English had +possessed the Hottentot slaves, they would have received much worse +treatment than they did: what that would have been it is difficult to +imagine. I took down the names of some scores of boys and girls, many of +whom I knew as our scholars; but I could not comfort the weeping mothers +by any hope of their ever returning from slavery. + +The Bechuanas are universally much attached to children. A little child +toddling near a party of men while they are eating is sure to get +a handful of the food. This love of children may arise, in a great +measure, from the patriarchal system under which they dwell. Every +little stranger forms an increase of property to the whole community, +and is duly reported to the chief--boys being more welcome than girls. +The parents take the name of the child, and often address their children +as Ma (mother), or Ra (father). Our eldest boy being named Robert, Mrs. +Livingstone was, after his birth, always addressed as Ma-Robert, instead +of Mary, her Christian name. + +I have examined several cases in which a grandmother has taken upon +herself to suckle a grandchild. Masina of Kuruman had no children after +the birth of her daughter Sina, and had no milk after Sina was weaned, +an event which usually is deferred till the child is two or three years +old. Sina married when she was seventeen or eighteen, and had twins; +Masina, after at least fifteen years' interval since she had suckled +a child, took possession of one of them, applied it to her breast, and +milk flowed, so that she was able to nurse the child entirely. Masina +was at this time at least forty years of age. I have witnessed several +other cases analogous to this. A grandmother of forty, or even less, +for they become withered at an early age, when left at home with a young +child, applies it to her own shriveled breast, and milk soon follows. +In some cases, as that of Ma-bogosing, the chief wife of Mahure, who was +about thirty-five years of age, the child was not entirely dependent on +the grandmother's breast, as the mother suckled it too. I had witnessed +the production of milk so frequently by the simple application of the +lips of the child, that I was not therefore surprised when told by +the Portuguese in Eastern Africa of a native doctor who, by applying +a poultice of the pounded larvae of hornets to the breast of a woman, +aided by the attempts of the child, could bring back the milk. Is it not +possible that the story in the "Cloud of Witnesses" of a man, during the +time of persecution in Scotland, putting his child to his own breast, +and finding, to the astonishment of the whole country, that milk +followed the act, may have been literally true? It was regarded and is +quoted as a miracle; but the feelings of the father toward the child of +a murdered mother must have been as nearly as possible analogous to the +maternal feeling; and, as anatomists declare the structure of both +male and female breasts to be identical, there is nothing physically +impossible in the alleged result. The illustrious Baron Humboldt quotes +an instance of the male breast yielding milk; and, though I am not +conscious of being over-credulous, the strange instances I have examined +in the opposite sex make me believe that there is no error in that +philosopher's statement. + +The Boers know from experience that adult captives may as well be +left alone, for escape is so easy in a wild country that no +fugitive-slave-law can come into operation; they therefore adopt the +system of seizing only the youngest children, in order that these may +forget their parents and remain in perpetual bondage. I have seen mere +infants in their houses repeatedly. This fact was formerly denied; and +the only thing which was wanting to make the previous denial of the +practice of slavery and slave-hunting by the Transvaal Boers no longer +necessary was the declaration of their independence. + +In conversation with some of my friends here I learned that Maleke, a +chief of the Bakwains, who formerly lived on the hill Litubaruba, had +been killed by the bite of a mad dog. My curiosity was strongly excited +by this statement, as rabies is so rare in this country. I never heard +of another case, and could not satisfy myself that even this was real +hydrophobia. While I was at Mabotsa, some dogs became affected by a +disease which led them to run about in an incoherent state; but I doubt +whether it was any thing but an affection of the brain. No individual +or animal got the complaint by inoculation from the animals' teeth; +and from all that I could hear, the prevailing idea of hydrophobia not +existing within the tropics seems to be quite correct. + +The diseases known among the Bakwains are remarkably few. There is +no consumption nor scrofula, and insanity and hydrocephalus are rare. +Cancer and cholera are quite unknown. Small-pox and measles passed +through the country about twenty years ago, and committed great ravages; +but, though the former has since broken out on the coast repeatedly, +neither disease has since traveled inland. For small-pox, the natives +employed, in some parts, inoculation in the forehead with some animal +deposit; in other parts, they employed the matter of the small-pox +itself; and in one village they seem to have selected a virulent case +for the matter used in the operation, for nearly all the village was +swept off by the disease in a malignant confluent form. Where the idea +came from I can not conceive. It was practiced by the Bakwains at a +time when they had no intercourse, direct or indirect, with the southern +missionaries. They all adopt readily the use of vaccine virus when it is +brought within their reach. + +A certain loathsome disease, which decimates the North American Indians, +and threatens extirpation to the South Sea Islanders, dies out in the +interior of Africa without the aid of medicine; and the Bangwaketse, who +brought it from the west coast, lost it when they came into their own +land southwest of Kolobeng. It seems incapable of permanence in any form +in persons of pure African blood any where in the centre of the country. +In persons of mixed blood it is otherwise; and the virulence of the +secondary symptoms seemed to be, in all the cases that came under my +care, in exact proportion to the greater or less amount of European +blood in the patient. Among the Corannas and Griquas of mixed breed it +produces the same ravages as in Europe; among half-blood Portuguese it +is equally frightful in its inroads on the system; but in the pure Negro +of the central parts it is quite incapable of permanence. Among the +Barotse I found a disease called manassah, which closely resembles that +of the 'foeda mulier' of history. + +Equally unknown is stone in the bladder and gravel. I never met with a +case, though the waters are often so strongly impregnated with sulphate +of lime that kettles quickly become incrusted internally with the salt; +and some of my patients, who were troubled with indigestion, believed +that their stomachs had got into the same condition. This freedom from +calculi would appear to be remarkable in the negro race, even in the +United States; for seldom indeed have the most famed lithotomists there +ever operated on a negro. + +The diseases most prevalent are the following: pneumonia, produced +by sudden changes of temperature, and other inflammations, as of the +bowels, stomach, and pleura; rheumatism; disease of the heart--but these +become rare as the people adopt the European dress--various forms of +indigestion and ophthalmia; hooping-cough comes frequently; and every +year the period preceding the rains is marked by some sort of epidemic. +Sometimes it is general ophthalmia, resembling closely the Egyptian. In +another year it is a kind of diarrhoea, which nothing will cure until +there is a fall of rain, and any thing acts as a charm after that. +One year the epidemic period was marked by a disease which looked like +pneumonia, but had the peculiar symptom strongly developed of great pain +in the seventh cervical process. Many persons died of it, after being +in a comatose state for many hours or days before their decease. No +inspection of the body being ever allowed by these people, and the place +of sepulture being carefully concealed, I had to rest satisfied with +conjecture. Frequently the Bakwains buried their dead in the huts where +they died, for fear lest the witches (Baloi) should disinter their +friends, and use some part of the body in their fiendish arts. Scarcely +is the breath out of the body when the unfortunate patient is hurried +away to be buried. An ant-eater's hole is often selected, in order to +save the trouble of digging a grave. On two occasions while I was there +this hasty burial was followed by the return home of the men, who had +been buried alive, to their affrighted relatives. They had recovered, +while in their graves, from prolonged swoons. + +In ophthalmia the doctors cup on the temples, and apply to the eyes the +pungent smoke of certain roots, the patient, at the same time, taking +strong draughts of it up his nostrils. We found the solution of nitrate +of silver, two or three grains to the ounce of rain-water, answer +the same end so much more effectually, that every morning numbers +of patients crowded round our house for the collyrium. It is a good +preventive of an acute attack when poured into the eyes as soon as +the pain begins, and might prove valuable for travelers. Cupping is +performed with the horn of a goat or antelope, having a little hole +pierced in the small end. In some cases a small piece of wax is +attached, and a temporary hole made through it to the horn. When the +air is well withdrawn, and kept out by touching the orifice, at every +inspiration, with the point of the tongue, the wax is at last pressed +together with the teeth, and the little hole in it closed up, leaving a +vacuum within the horn for the blood to flow from the already scarified +parts. The edges of the horn applied to the surface are wetted, and +cupping is well performed, though the doctor occasionally, by separating +the fibrine from the blood in a basin of water by his side, and +exhibiting it, pretends that he has extracted something more than blood. +He can thus explain the rationale of the cure by his own art, and the +ocular demonstration given is well appreciated. + +Those doctors who have inherited their profession as an heirloom +from their fathers and grandfathers generally possess some valuable +knowledge, the result of long and close observation; but if a man can +not say that the medical art is in his family, he may be considered +a quack. With the regular practitioners I always remained on the best +terms, by refraining from appearing to doubt their skill in the presence +of their patients. Any explanation in private was thankfully received +by them, and wrong treatment changed into something more reasonable with +cordial good-will, if no one but the doctor and myself were present at +the conversation. English medicines were eagerly asked for and accepted +by all; and we always found medical knowledge an important aid in +convincing the people that we were really anxious for their welfare. +We can not accuse them of ingratitude; in fact, we shall remember the +kindness of the Bakwains to us as long as we live. + +The surgical knowledge of the native doctors is rather at a low ebb. No +one ever attempted to remove a tumor except by external applications. +Those with which the natives are chiefly troubled are fatty and fibrous +tumors; and as they all have the 'vis medicatrix naturae' in remarkable +activity, I safely removed an immense number. In illustration of their +want of surgical knowledge may be mentioned the case of a man who had a +tumor as large as a child's head. This was situated on the nape of his +neck, and prevented his walking straight. He applied to his chief, and +he got some famous strange doctor from the East Coast to cure him. He +and his assistants attempted to dissolve it by kindling on it a little +fire made of a few small pieces of medicinal roots. I removed it for +him, and he always walked with his head much more erect than he needed +to do ever afterward. Both men and women submit to an operation without +wincing, or any of that shouting which caused young students to faint in +the operating theatre before the introduction of chloroform. The women +pride themselves on their ability to bear pain. A mother will address +her little girl, from whose foot a thorn is to be extracted, with, "Now, +ma, you are a woman; a woman does not cry." A man scorns to shed tears. +When we were passing one of the deep wells in the Kalahari, a boy, +the son of an aged father, had been drowned in it while playing on its +brink. When all hope was gone, the father uttered an exceedingly great +and bitter cry. It was sorrow without hope. This was the only instance I +ever met with of a man weeping in this country. + +Their ideas on obstetrics are equally unscientific, and a medical man +going near a woman at her confinement appeared to them more out of place +than a female medical student appears to us in a dissecting-room. A case +of twins, however, happening, and the ointment of all the doctors of +the town proving utterly insufficient to effect the relief which a few +seconds of English art afforded, the prejudice vanished at once. As it +would have been out of the question for me to have entered upon this +branch of the profession--as indeed it would be inexpedient for any +medical man to devote himself exclusively, in a thinly-peopled country, +to the practice of medicine--I thereafter reserved myself for the +difficult cases only, and had the satisfaction of often conferring great +benefits on poor women in their hour of sorrow. The poor creatures are +often placed in a little hut built for the purpose, and are left without +any assistance whatever, and the numbers of umbilical herniae which are +met with in consequence is very great. The women suffer less at their +confinement than is the case in civilized countries; perhaps from their +treating it, not as a disease, but as an operation of nature, requiring +no change of diet except a feast of meat and abundance of fresh air. The +husband on these occasions is bound to slaughter for his lady an ox, or +goat, or sheep, according to his means. + +My knowledge in the above line procured for me great fame in a +department in which I could lay no claim to merit. A woman came a +distance of one hundred miles for relief in a complaint which seemed to +have baffled the native doctors; a complete cure was the result. Some +twelve months after she returned to her husband, she bore a son. Her +husband having previously reproached her for being barren, she sent me a +handsome present, and proclaimed all over the country that I possessed +a medicine for the cure of sterility. The consequence was, that I was +teased with applications from husbands and wives from all parts of the +country. Some came upward of two hundred miles to purchase the great +boon, and it was in vain for me to explain that I had only cured the +disease of the other case. The more I denied, the higher their offers +rose; they would give any money for the "child medicine"; and it was +really heart-rending to hear the earnest entreaty, and see the tearful +eye, which spoke the intense desire for offspring: "I am getting old; +you see gray hairs here and there on my head, and I have no child; you +know how Bechuana husbands cast their old wives away; what can I do? I +have no child to bring water to me when I am sick," etc. + +The whole of the country adjacent to the Desert, from Kuruman to +Kolobeng, or Litubaruba, and beyond up to the latitude of Lake Ngami, is +remarkable for its great salubrity of climate. Not only the natives, but +Europeans whose constitutions have been impaired by an Indian climate, +find the tract of country indicated both healthy and restorative. The +health and longevity of the missionaries have always been fair, though +mission-work is not very conducive to either elsewhere. Cases have been +known in which patients have come from the coast with complaints closely +resembling, if they were not actually, those of consumption; and they +have recovered by the influence of the climate alone. It must always be +borne in mind that the climate near the coast, from which we received +such very favorable reports of the health of the British troops, is +actually inferior for persons suffering from pulmonary complaints to +that of any part not subjected to the influence of sea-air. I have +never seen the beneficial effects of the inland climate on persons of +shattered constitutions, nor heard their high praises of the benefit +they have derived from traveling, without wishing that its bracing +effects should become more extensively known in England. No one who +has visited the region I have above mentioned fails to remember with +pleasure the wild, healthful gipsy life of wagon-traveling. + +A considerable proportion of animal diet seems requisite here. +Independent of the want of salt, we required meat in as large +quantity daily as we do in England, and no bad effects, in the way of +biliousness, followed the free use of flesh, as in other hot climates. A +vegetable diet causes acidity and heartburn. + +Mr. Oswell thought this climate much superior to that of Peru, as far as +pleasure is concerned; the want of instruments unfortunately prevented +my obtaining accurate scientific data for the medical world on this +subject; and were it not for the great expense of such a trip, I should +have no hesitation in recommending the borders of the Kalahari Desert as +admirably suited for all patients having pulmonary complaints. It is +the complete antipodes to our cold, damp, English climate. The winter +is perfectly dry; and as not a drop of rain falls during that period, +namely, from the beginning of May to the end of August, damp and cold +are never combined. However hot the day may have been at Kolobeng--and +the thermometer sometimes rose, previous to a fall of rain, up to 96 +Deg. in the coolest part of our house--yet the atmosphere never has that +steamy feeling nor those debilitating effects so well known in India +and on the coast of Africa itself. In the evenings the air becomes +deliciously cool, and a pleasant refreshing night follows the hottest +day. The greatest heat ever felt is not so oppressive as it is when +there is much humidity in the air; and the great evaporation consequent +on a fall of rain makes the rainy season the most agreeable for +traveling. Nothing can exceed the balmy feeling of the evenings and +mornings during the whole year. You wish for an increase neither of +cold nor heat; and you can sit out of doors till midnight without ever +thinking of colds or rheumatism; or you may sleep out at night, looking +up to the moon till you fall asleep, without a thought or sign of +moon-blindness. Indeed, during many months there is scarcely any dew. + + + + +Chapter 7. + +Departure from the Country of the Bakwains--Large black Ant--Land +Tortoises--Diseases of wild Animals--Habits of old Lions--Cowardice of +the Lion--Its Dread of a Snare--Major Vardon's Note--The Roar of +the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich--Seldom attacks full-grown +Animals--Buffaloes and Lions--Mice--Serpents--Treading on +one--Venomous and harmless Varieties--Fascination--Sekomi's Ideas +of Honesty--Ceremony of the Sechu for Boys--The Boyale for +young Women--Bamangwato Hills--The Unicorn's Pass--The Country +beyond--Grain--Scarcity of Water--Honorable Conduct of English +Gentlemen--Gordon Cumming's hunting Adventures--A Word of Advice +for young Sportsmen--Bushwomen drawing Water--Ostrich--Silly +Habit--Paces--Eggs--Food. + + + +Having remained five days with the wretched Bakwains, seeing the effects +of war, of which only a very inadequate idea can ever be formed by those +who have not been eye-witnesses of its miseries, we prepared to depart +on the 15th of January, 1853. Several dogs, in better condition by far +than any of the people, had taken up their residence at the water. No +one would own them; there they had remained, and, coming on the trail +of the people, long after their departure from the scene of conflict, it +was plain they had + +"Held o'er the dead their carnival." + +Hence the disgust with which they were viewed. + +On our way from Khopong, along the ancient river-bed which forms the +pathway to Boatlanama, I found a species of cactus, being the third I +have seen in the country, namely, one in the colony with a bright red +flower, one at Lake Ngami, the flower of which was liver-colored, and +the present one, flower unknown. That the plant is uncommon may be +inferred from the fact that the Bakwains find so much difficulty in +recognizing the plant again after having once seen it, that they believe +it has the power of changing its locality. + +On the 21st of January we reached the wells of Boatlanama, and found +them for the first time empty. Lopepe, which I had formerly seen a +stream running from a large reedy pool, was also dry. The hot salt +spring of Serinane, east of Lopepe, being undrinkable, we pushed on to +Mashue for its delicious waters. In traveling through this country, the +olfactory nerves are frequently excited by a strong disagreeable odor. +This is caused by a large jet-black ant named "Leshonya". It is nearly +an inch in length, and emits a pungent smell when alarmed, in the same +manner as the skunk. The scent must be as volatile as ether, for, on +irritating the insect with a stick six feet long, the odor is instantly +perceptible. + +Occasionally we lighted upon land tortoises, which, with their unlaid +eggs, make a very agreeable dish. We saw many of their trails leading +to the salt fountain; they must have come great distances for this +health-giving article. In lieu thereof they often devour wood-ashes. It +is wonderful how this reptile holds its place in the country. When seen, +it never escapes. The young are taken for the sake of their shells; +these are made into boxes, which, filled with sweet-smelling roots, the +women hang around their persons. When older it is used as food, and the +shell converted into a rude basin to hold food or water. It owes its +continuance neither to speed nor cunning. Its color, yellow and dark +brown, is well adapted, by its similarity to the surrounding grass +and brushwood, to render it indistinguishable; and, though it makes an +awkward attempt to run on the approach of man, its trust is in its bony +covering, from which even the teeth of a hyaena glance off foiled. When +this long-lived creature is about to deposit her eggs, she lets herself +into the ground by throwing the earth up round her shell, until only +the top is visible; then covering up the eggs, she leaves them until the +rains begin to fall and the fresh herbage appears; the young ones then +come out, their shells still quite soft, and, unattended by their dam, +begin the world for themselves. Their food is tender grass and a plant +named thotona, and they frequently resort to heaps of ashes and places +containing efflorescence of the nitrates for the salts these contain. + +Inquiries among the Bushmen and Bakalahari, who are intimately +acquainted with the habits of the game, lead to the belief that many +diseases prevail among wild animals. I have seen the kokong or gnu, kama +or hartebeest, the tsessebe, kukama, and the giraffe, so mangy as to be +uneatable even by the natives. Reference has already been made to the +peripneumonia which cuts off horses, tolos or koodoos. Great numbers +also of zebras are found dead with masses of foam at the nostrils, +exactly as occurs in the common "horse-sickness". The production of the +malignant carbuncle called kuatsi, or selonda, by the flesh when eaten, +is another proof of the disease of the tame and wild being identical. +I once found a buffalo blind from ophthalmia standing by the fountain +Otse; when he attempted to run he lifted up his feet in the manner +peculiar to blind animals. The rhinoceros has often worms on the +conjunction of his eyes; but these are not the cause of the dimness of +vision which will make him charge past a man who has wounded him, if +he stands perfectly still, in the belief that his enemy is a tree. +It probably arises from the horn being in the line of vision, for the +variety named kuabaoba, which has a straight horn directed downward away +from that line, possesses acute eyesight, and is much more wary. + +All the wild animals are subject to intestinal worms besides. I have +observed bunches of a tape-like thread and short worms of enlarged sizes +in the rhinoceros. The zebra and elephants are seldom without them, and +a thread-worm may often be seen under the peritoneum of these animals. +Short red larvae, which convey a stinging sensation to the hand, are +seen clustering round the orifice of the windpipe (trachea) of this +animal at the back of the throat; others are seen in the frontal sinus +of antelopes; and curious flat, leech-like worms, with black eyes, are +found in the stomachs of leches. The zebra, giraffe, eland, and kukama +have been seen mere skeletons from decay of their teeth as well as from +disease. + +The carnivora, too, become diseased and mangy; lions become lean and +perish miserably by reason of the decay of the teeth. When a lion +becomes too old to catch game, he frequently takes to killing goats in +the villages; a woman or child happening to go out at night falls a prey +too; and as this is his only source of subsistence now, he continues it. +From this circumstance has arisen the idea that the lion, when he has +once tasted human flesh, loves it better than any other. A man-eater is +invariably an old lion; and when he overcomes his fear of man so far as +to come to villages for goats, the people remark, "His teeth are worn, +he will soon kill men." They at once acknowledge the necessity of +instant action, and turn out to kill him. When living far away from +population, or when, as is the case in some parts, he entertains a +wholesome dread of the Bushmen and Bakalahari, as soon as either disease +or old age overtakes him, he begins to catch mice and other small +rodents, and even to eat grass; the natives, observing undigested +vegetable matter in his droppings, follow up his trail in the certainty +of finding him scarcely able to move under some tree, and dispatch him +without difficulty. The grass may have been eaten as medicine, as is +observed in dogs. + +That the fear of man often remains excessively strong in the carnivora +is proved from well-authenticated cases in which the lioness, in the +vicinity of towns where the large game had been unexpectedly driven +away by fire-arms, has been known to assuage the paroxysms of hunger by +devouring her own young. It must be added, that, though the effluvium +which is left by the footsteps of man is in general sufficient to induce +lions to avoid a village, there are exceptions; so many came about our +half-deserted houses at Chonuane while we were in the act of removing +to Kolobeng, that the natives who remained with Mrs. Livingstone were +terrified to stir out of doors in the evenings. Bitches, also, have been +known to be guilty of the horridly unnatural act of eating their +own young, probably from the great desire for animal food, which is +experienced by the inhabitants as well. + +When a lion is met in the daytime, a circumstance by no means unfrequent +to travelers in these parts, if preconceived notions do not lead them +to expect something very "noble" or "majestic", they will see merely an +animal somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw, and partaking +very strongly of the canine features; the face is not much like the +usual drawings of a lion, the nose being prolonged like a dog's; not +exactly such as our painters make it--though they might learn better at +the Zoological Gardens--their ideas of majesty being usually shown by +making their lions' faces like old women in nightcaps. When encountered +in the daytime, the lion stands a second or two, gazing, then turns +slowly round, and walks as slowly away for a dozen paces, looking over +his shoulder; then begins to trot, and, when he thinks himself out of +sight, bounds off like a greyhound. By day there is not, as a rule, the +smallest danger of lions which are not molested attacking man, nor +even on a clear moonlight night, except when they possess the breeding +storgh* (natural affection); this makes them brave almost any danger; +and if a man happens to cross to the windward of them, both lion and +lioness will rush at him, in the manner of a bitch with whelps. This +does not often happen, as I only became aware of two or three instances +of it. In one case a man, passing where the wind blew from him to the +animals, was bitten before he could climb a tree; and occasionally a man +on horseback has been caught by the leg under the same circumstances. So +general, however, is the sense of security on moonlight nights, that we +seldom tied up our oxen, but let them lie loose by the wagons; while on +a dark, rainy night, if a lion is in the neighborhood, he is almost sure +to venture to kill an ox. His approach is always stealthy, except when +wounded; and any appearance of a trap is enough to cause him to refrain +from making the last spring. This seems characteristic of the feline +species; when a goat is picketed in India for the purpose of enabling +the huntsmen to shoot a tiger by night, if on a plain, he would whip off +the animal so quickly by a stroke of the paw that no one could take aim; +to obviate this, a small pit is dug, and the goat is picketed to a stake +in the bottom; a small stone is tied in the ear of the goat, which makes +him cry the whole night. When the tiger sees the appearance of a trap, +he walks round and round the pit, and allows the hunter, who is lying in +wait, to have a fair shot. + + * (Greek) sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta. + +When a lion is very hungry, and lying in wait, the sight of an animal +may make him commence stalking it. In one case a man, while stealthily +crawling towards a rhinoceros, happened to glance behind him, and found +to his horror a lion STALKING HIM; he only escaped by springing up a +tree like a cat. At Lopepe a lioness sprang on the after quarter of Mr. +Oswell's horse, and when we came up to him we found the marks of the +claws on the horse, and a scratch on Mr. O.'s hand. The horse, on +feeling the lion on him, sprang away, and the rider, caught by a +wait-a-bit thorn, was brought to the ground and rendered insensible. +His dogs saved him. Another English gentleman (Captain Codrington) was +surprised in the same way, though not hunting the lion at the time, +but turning round he shot him dead in the neck. By accident a horse +belonging to Codrington ran away, but was stopped by the bridle catching +a stump; there he remained a prisoner two days, and when found the whole +space around was marked by the footprints of lions. They had evidently +been afraid to attack the haltered horse from fear that it was a trap. +Two lions came up by night to within three yards of oxen tied to a +wagon, and a sheep tied to a tree, and stood roaring, but afraid to make +a spring. On another occasion one of our party was lying sound asleep +and unconscious of danger between two natives behind a bush at Mashue; +the fire was nearly out at their feet in consequence of all being +completely tired out by the fatigues of the previous day; a lion came up +to within three yards of the fire, and there commenced roaring instead +of making a spring: the fact of their riding-ox being tied to the bush +was the only reason the lion had for not following his instinct, and +making a meal of flesh. He then stood on a knoll three hundred yards +distant, and roared all night, and continued his growling as the party +moved off by daylight next morning. + +Nothing that I ever learned of the lion would lead me to attribute to +it either the ferocious or noble character ascribed to it elsewhere. It +possesses none of the nobility of the Newfoundland or St. Bernard dogs. +With respect to its great strength there can be no doubt. The immense +masses of muscle around its jaws, shoulders, and forearms proclaim +tremendous force. They would seem, however, to be inferior in power to +those of the Indian tiger. Most of those feats of strength that I have +seen performed by lions, such as the taking away of an ox, were not +carrying, but dragging or trailing the carcass along the ground: they +have sprung on some occasions on to the hind-quarters of a horse, but no +one has ever seen them on the withers of a giraffe. They do not mount on +the hind-quarters of an eland even, but try to tear him down with their +claws. Messrs. Oswell and Vardon once saw three lions endeavoring to +drag down a buffalo, and they were unable to do so for a time, though he +was then mortally wounded by a two-ounce ball.* + + * This singular encounter, in the words of an eye-witness, + happened as follows: + + "My South African Journal is now before me, and I have got + hold of the account of the lion and buffalo affair; here it + is: '15th September, 1846. Oswell and I were riding this + afternoon along the banks of the Limpopo, when a waterbuck + started in front of us. I dismounted, and was following it + through the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, and, after + going a little distance, stood still, and the nearest bull + turned round and looked at me. A ball from the two-ouncer + crashed into his shoulder, and they all three made off. + Oswell and I followed as soon as I had reloaded, and when we + were in sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him at every + stride, three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute; he + bellowed most lustily as he kept up a kind of running fight, + but he was, of course, soon overpowered and pulled down. We + had a fine view of the struggle, and saw the lions on their + hind legs tearing away with teeth and claws in most ferocious + style. We crept up within thirty yards, and, kneeling down, + blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single barrel, and I + had no spare gun. One lion fell dead almost ON the buffalo; he + had merely time to turn toward us, seize a bush with his + teeth, and drop dead with the stick in his jaws. The second + made off immediately; and the third raised his head, coolly + looked round for a moment, then went on tearing and biting at + the carcass as hard as ever. We retired a short distance to + load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but a + ball that he received OUGHT to have stopped him, as it went + clean through his shoulder-blade. He was followed up and + killed, after having charged several times. Both lions were + males. It is not often that one BAGS a brace of lions and a + bull buffalo in about ten minutes. It was an exciting + adventure, and I shall never forget it.' + + "Such, my dear Livingstone, is the plain unvarnished account. + The buffalo had, of course, gone close to where the lions were + lying down for the day; and they, seeing him lame and + bleeding, thought the opportunity too good a one to be lost. + + "Ever yours, Frank Vardon." + +In general the lion seizes the animal he is attacking by the flank near +the hind leg, or by the throat below the jaw. It is questionable whether +he ever attempts to seize an animal by the withers. The flank is the +most common point of attack, and that is the part he begins to feast +on first. The natives and lions are very similar in their tastes in the +selection of tit-bits: an eland may be seen disemboweled by a lion so +completely that he scarcely seems cut up at all. The bowels and fatty +parts form a full meal for even the largest lion. The jackal comes +sniffing about, and sometimes suffers for his temerity by a stroke from +the lion's paw laying him dead. When gorged, the lion falls fast asleep, +and is then easily dispatched. Hunting a lion with dogs involves very +little danger as compared with hunting the Indian tiger, because the +dogs bring him out of cover and make him stand at bay, giving the hunter +plenty of time for a good deliberate shot. + +Where game is abundant, there you may expect lions in proportionately +large numbers. They are never seen in herds, but six or eight, probably +one family, occasionally hunt together. One is in much more danger of +being run over when walking in the streets of London, than he is of +being devoured by lions in Africa, unless engaged in hunting the animal. +Indeed, nothing that I have seen or heard about lions would constitute a +barrier in the way of men of ordinary courage and enterprise. + +The same feeling which has induced the modern painter to caricature the +lion, has led the sentimentalist to consider the lion's roar the most +terrific of all earthly sounds. We hear of the "majestic roar of the +king of beasts." It is, indeed, well calculated to inspire fear if +you hear it in combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that +country, on a night so pitchy dark that every flash of the intensely +vivid lightning leaves you with the impression of stone-blindness, while +the rain pours down so fast that your fire goes out, leaving you without +the protection of even a tree, or the chance of your gun going off. +But when you are in a comfortable house or wagon, the case is very +different, and you hear the roar of the lion without any awe or alarm. +The silly ostrich makes a noise as loud, yet he never was feared by man. +To talk of the majestic roar of the lion is mere majestic twaddle. On +my mentioning this fact some years ago, the assertion was doubted, so I +have been careful ever since to inquire the opinions of Europeans, who +have heard both, if they could detect any difference between the roar +of a lion and that of an ostrich; the invariable answer was, that they +could not when the animal was at any distance. The natives assert that +they can detect a variation between the commencement of the noise of +each. There is, it must be admitted, considerable difference between +the singing noise of a lion when full, and his deep, gruff growl when +hungry. In general the lion's voice seems to come deeper from the chest +than that of the ostrich, but to this day I can distinguish between them +with certainty only by knowing that the ostrich roars by day and the +lion by night. + +The African lion is of a tawny color, like that of some mastiffs. The +mane in the male is large, and gives the idea of great power. In some +lions the ends of the hair of the mane are black; these go by the name +of black-maned lions, though as a whole all look of the yellow tawny +color. At the time of the discovery of the lake, Messrs. Oswell and +Wilson shot two specimens of another variety. One was an old lion, whose +teeth were mere stumps, and his claws worn quite blunt; the other was +full grown, in the prime of life, with white, perfect teeth; both were +entirely destitute of mane. The lions in the country near the lake give +tongue less than those further south. We scarcely ever heard them roar +at all. + +The lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides man. He seldom +attacks full-grown animals; but frequently, when a buffalo calf is +caught by him, the cow rushes to the rescue, and a toss from her often +kills him. One we found was killed thus; and on the Leeambye another, +which died near Sesheke, had all the appearance of having received his +death-blow from a buffalo. It is questionable if a single lion ever +attacks a full-grown buffalo. The amount of roaring heard at night, on +occasions when a buffalo is killed, seems to indicate there are always +more than one lion engaged in the onslaught. + +On the plain, south of Sebituane's ford, a herd of buffaloes kept a +number of lions from their young by the males turning their heads to +the enemy. The young and the cows were in the rear. One toss from a bull +would kill the strongest lion that ever breathed. I have been informed +that in one part of India even the tame buffaloes feel their superiority +to some wild animals, for they have been seen to chase a tiger up the +hills, bellowing as if they enjoyed the sport. Lions never go near any +elephants except the calves, which, when young, are sometimes torn +by them; every living thing retires before the lordly elephant, yet a +full-grown one would be an easier prey than the rhinoceros; the lion +rushes off at the mere sight of this latter beast. + +In the country adjacent to Mashue great numbers of different kinds of +mice exist. The ground is often so undermined with their burrows that +the foot sinks in at every step. Little haycocks, about two feet high, +and rather more than that in breadth, are made by one variety of these +little creatures. The same thing is done in regions annually covered +with snow for obvious purposes, but it is difficult here to divine the +reason of the haymaking in the climate of Africa.* + + * 'Euryotis unisulcatus' (F. Cuvier), 'Mus pumelio' (Spar.), + and 'Mus lehocla' (Smith), all possess this habit in a greater + or less degree. The first-named may be seen escaping danger + with its young hanging to the after-part of its body. + +Wherever mice abound, serpents may be expected, for the one preys on +the other. A cat in a house is therefore a good preventive against +the entrance of these noxious reptiles. Occasionally, however, +notwithstanding every precaution, they do find their way in, but even +the most venomous sorts bite only when put in bodily fear themselves, or +when trodden upon, or when the sexes come together. I once found a coil +of serpents' skins, made by a number of them twisting together in the +manner described by the Druids of old. When in the country, one feels +nothing of that alarm and loathing which we may experience when sitting +in a comfortable English room reading about them; yet they are nasty +things, and we seem to have an instinctive feeling against them. In +making the door for our Mabotsa house, I happened to leave a small +hole at the corner below. Early one morning a man came to call for some +article I had promised. I at once went to the door, and, it being dark, +trod on a serpent. The moment I felt the cold scaly skin twine round a +part of my leg, my latent instinct was roused, and I jumped up higher +than I ever did before or hope to do again, shaking the reptile off +in the leap. I probably trod on it near the head, and so prevented it +biting me, but did not stop to examine. + +Some of the serpents are particularly venomous. One was killed at +Kolobeng of a dark brown, nearly black color, 8 feet 3 inches long. This +species (picakholu) is so copiously supplied with poison that, when a +number of dogs attack it, the first bitten dies almost instantaneously, +the second in about five minutes, the third in an hour or so, while +the fourth may live several hours. In a cattle-pen it produces great +mischief in the same way. The one we killed at Kolobeng continued to +distill clear poison from the fangs for hours after its head was cut +off. This was probably that which passes by the name of the "spitting +serpent", which is believed to be able to eject its poison into the eyes +when the wind favors its forcible expiration. They all require water, +and come long distances to the Zouga, and other rivers and pools, in +search of it. We have another dangerous serpent, the puff adder, and +several vipers. One, named by the inhabitants "Noga-put-sane", or +serpent of a kid, utters a cry by night exactly like the bleating of +that animal. I heard one at a spot where no kid could possibly have +been. It is supposed by the natives to lure travelers to itself by this +bleating. Several varieties, when alarmed, emit a peculiar odor, by +which the people become aware of their presence in a house. We have +also the cobra ('Naia haje', Smith) of several colors or varieties. When +annoyed, they raise their heads up about a foot from the ground, and +flatten the neck in a threatening manner, darting out the tongue and +retracting it with great velocity, while their fixed glassy eyes +glare as if in anger. There are also various species of the genus +'Dendrophis', as the 'Bucephalus viridis', or green tree-climber. They +climb trees in search of birds and eggs, and are soon discovered by all +the birds in the neighborhood collecting and sounding an alarm.* Their +fangs are formed not so much for injecting poison on external objects +as for keeping in any animal or bird of which they have got hold. In +the case of the 'Dasypeltis inornatus' (Smith), the teeth are small, and +favorable for the passage of thin-shelled eggs without breaking. The egg +is taken in unbroken till it is within the gullet, or about two inches +behind the head. The gular teeth placed there break the shell without +spilling the contents, as would be the case if the front teeth were +large. The shell is then ejected. Others appear to be harmless, and even +edible. Of the latter sort is the large python, metse pallah, or tari. +The largest specimens of this are about 15 or 20 feet in length. They +are perfectly harmless, and live on small animals, chiefly the rodentia; +occasionally the steinbuck and pallah fall victims, and are sucked into +its comparatively small mouth in boa-constrictor fashion. One we shot +was 11 feet 10 inches long, and as thick as a man's leg. When shot +through the spine, it was capable of lifting itself up about five feet +high, and opened its mouth in a threatening manner, but the poor thing +was more inclined to crawl away. The flesh is much relished by the +Bakalahari and Bushmen. They carry away each his portion, like logs of +wood, over their shoulders. + + * "As this snake, 'Bucephalus Capensis', in our opinion, is + not provided with a poisonous fluid to instill into wounds + which these fangs may inflict, they must consequently be + intended for a purpose different to those which exist in + poisonous reptiles. Their use seems to be to offer obstacles + to the retrogression of animals, such as birds, etc., while + they are only partially within the mouth; and from the + circumstance of these fangs being directed backward, and not + admitting of being raised so as to form an angle with the edge + of the jaw, they are well fitted to act as powerful holders + when once they penetrate the skin and soft parts of the prey + which their possessors may be in the act of swallowing. + Without such fangs escapes would be common; with such they are + rare. + + "The natives of South Africa regard the 'Bucephalus Capensis' + as poisonous; but in their opinion we can not concur, as we + have not been able to discover the existence of any glands + manifestly organized for the secretion of poison. The fangs + are inclosed in a soft, pulpy sheath, the inner surface of + which is commonly coated with a thin glairy secretion. This + secretion possibly may have something acrid and irritating in + its qualities, which may, when it enters a wound, cause pain + and even swelling, but nothing of greater importance. + + "The 'Bucephalus Capensis' is generally found on trees, to + which it resorts for the purpose of catching birds, upon which + it delights to feed. The presence of a specimen in a tree is + generally soon discovered by the birds of the neighborhood, + who collect around it and fly to and fro, uttering the most + piercing cries, until some one, more terror-struck than the + rest, actually scans its lips, and, almost without resistance, + becomes a meal for its enemy. During such a proceeding the + snake is generally observed with its head raised about ten or + twelve inches above the branch round which its body and tail + are entwined, with its mouth open and its neck inflated, as if + anxiously endeavoring to increase the terror which it would + almost appear it was aware would sooner or later bring within + its grasp some one of the feathered group. + + "Whatever may be said in ridicule of fascination, it is + nevertheless true that birds, and even quadrupeds, are, under + certain circumstances, unable to retire from the presence of + certain of their enemies; and, what is even more + extraordinary, unable to resist the propensity to advance from + a situation of actual safety into one of the most imminent + danger. This I have often seen exemplified in the case of + birds and snakes; and I have heard of instances equally + curious, in which antelopes and other quadrupeds have been so + bewildered by the sudden appearance of crocodiles, and by the + grimaces and contortions they practiced, as to be unable to + fly or even move from the spot toward which they were + approaching to seize them."--Dr. Andrew Smith's "Reptilia". + + In addition to these interesting statements of the most able + naturalist from whom I have taken this note, it may be added + that fire exercises a fascinating effect on some kinds of + toads. They may be seen rushing into it in the evenings + without ever starting back on feeling pain. Contact with the + hot embers rather increases the energy with which they strive + to gain the hottest parts, and they never cease their + struggles for the centre even when their juices are + coagulating and their limbs stiffening in the roasting heat. + Various insects, also, are thus fascinated; but the scorpions + may be seen coming away from the fire in fierce disgust, and + they are so irritated as to inflict at that time their most + painful stings. + +Some of the Bayeiye we met at Sebituane's Ford pretended to be +unaffected by the bite of serpents, and showed the feat of lacerating +their arms with the teeth of such as are unfurnished with the +poison-fangs. They also swallow the poison, by way of gaining notoriety; +but Dr. Andrew Smith put the sincerity of such persons to the test by +offering them the fangs of a really poisonous variety, and found they +shrank from the experiment. + +When we reached the Bamangwato, the chief, Sekomi, was particularly +friendly, collected all his people to the religious services we held, +and explained his reasons for compelling some Englishmen to pay him a +horse. "They would not sell him any powder, though they had plenty; so +he compelled them to give it and the horse for nothing. He would not +deny the extortion to me; that would be 'boherehere' (swindling)." He +thus thought extortion better than swindling. I could not detect any +difference in the morality of the two transactions, but Sekomi's ideas +of honesty are the lowest I have met with in any Bechuana chief, and +this instance is mentioned as the only approach to demanding payment for +leave to pass that I have met with in the south. In all other cases the +difficulty has been to get a chief to give us men to show the way, +and the payment has only been for guides. Englishmen have always very +properly avoided giving that idea to the native mind which we shall +hereafter find prove troublesome, that payment ought to be made for +passage through a country. + +All the Bechuana and Caffre tribes south of the Zambesi practice +circumcision ('boguera'), but the rites observed are carefully +concealed. The initiated alone can approach, but in this town I was +once a spectator of the second part of the ceremony of the circumcision, +called "sechu". Just at the dawn of day, a row of boys of nearly +fourteen years of age stood naked in the kotla, each having a pair of +sandals as a shield on his hands. Facing them stood the men of the +town in a similar state of nudity, all armed with long thin wands, of a +tough, strong, supple bush called moretloa ('Grewia flava'), and engaged +in a dance named "koha", in which questions are put to the boys, as +"Will you guard the chief well?" "Will you herd the cattle well?" and, +while the latter give an affirmative response, the men rush forward to +them, and each aims a full-weight blow at the back of one of the boys. +Shielding himself with the sandals above his head, he causes the supple +wand to descend and bend into his back, and every stroke inflicted thus +makes the blood squirt out of a wound a foot or eighteen inches long. At +the end of the dance, the boys' backs are seamed with wounds and weals, +the scars of which remain through life. This is intended to harden +the young soldiers, and prepare them for the rank of men. After this +ceremony, and after killing a rhinoceros, they may marry a wife. + +In the "koha" the same respect is shown to age as in many other of their +customs. A younger man, rushing from the ranks to exercise his wand on +the backs of the youths, may be himself the object of chastisement by +the older, and, on the occasion referred to, Sekomi received a severe +cut on the leg from one of his gray-haired people. On my joking with +some of the young men on their want of courage, notwithstanding all the +beatings of which they bore marks, and hinting that our soldiers were +brave without suffering so much, one rose up and said, "Ask him if, when +he and I were compelled by a lion to stop and make a fire, I did not lie +down and sleep as well as himself." In other parts a challenge to try +a race would have been given, and you may frequently see grown men +adopting that means of testing superiority, like so many children. + +The sechu is practiced by three tribes only. Boguera is observed by all +the Bechuanas and Caffres, but not by the negro tribes beyond 20 Deg. +south. The "boguera" is a civil rather than a religious rite. All the +boys of an age between ten and fourteen or fifteen are selected to be +the companions for life of one of the sons of the chief. They are taken +out to some retired spot in the forest, and huts are erected for their +accommodation; the old men go out and teach them to dance, initiating +them, at the same time, into all the mysteries of African politics and +government. Each one is expected to compose an oration in praise of +himself, called a "leina" or name, and to be able to repeat it with +sufficient fluency. A good deal of beating is required to bring them +up to the required excellency in different matters, so that, when +they return from the close seclusion in which they are kept, they have +generally a number of scars to show on their backs. These bands or +regiments, named mepato in the plural and mopato in the singular, +receive particular appellations; as, the Matsatsi--the suns; the +Mabusa--the rulers; equivalent to our Coldstreams or Enniskillens; and, +though living in different parts of the town, they turn out at the call, +and act under the chief's son as their commander. They recognize a sort +of equality and partial communism ever afterward, and address each other +by the title of molekane or comrade. In cases of offence against their +rules, as eating alone when any of their comrades are within call, or in +cases of cowardice or dereliction of duty, they may strike one another, +or any member of a younger mopato, but never any one of an older band; +and when three or four companies have been made, the oldest no longer +takes the field in time of war, but remains as a guard over the women +and children. When a fugitive comes to a tribe, he is directed to the +mopato analogous to that to which in his own tribe he belongs, and does +duty as a member. No one of the natives knows how old he is. If asked +his age, he answers by putting another question, "Does a man remember +when he was born?" Age is reckoned by the number of mepato they have +seen pass through the formulae of admission. When they see four or five +mepato younger than themselves, they are no longer obliged to bear arms. +The oldest individual I ever met boasted he had seen eleven sets of boys +submit to the boguera. Supposing him to have been fifteen when he saw +his own, and fresh bands were added every six or seven years, he must +have been about forty when he saw the fifth, and may have attained +seventy-five or eighty years, which is no great age; but it seemed so to +them, for he had now doubled the age for superannuation among them. +It is an ingenious plan for attaching the members of the tribe to the +chief's family, and for imparting a discipline which renders the tribe +easy of command. On their return to the town from attendance on the +ceremonies of initiation, a prize is given to the lad who can run +fastest, the article being placed where all may see the winner run up +to snatch it. They are then considered men (banona, viri), and can sit +among the elders in the kotla. Formerly they were only boys (basimane, +pueri). The first missionaries set their faces against the boguera, on +account of its connection with heathenism, and the fact that the youths +learned much evil, and became disobedient to their parents. From +the general success of these men, it is perhaps better that younger +missionaries should tread in their footsteps; for so much evil may +result from breaking down the authority on which, to those who can not +read, the whole system of our influence appears to rest, that innovators +ought to be made to propose their new measures as the Locrians did new +laws--with ropes around their necks. + +Probably the "boguera" was only a sanitary and political measure; and +there being no continuous chain of tribes practicing the rite between +the Arabs and the Bechuanas, or Caffres, and as it is not a religious +ceremony, it can scarcely be traced, as is often done, to a Mohammedan +source. + +A somewhat analogous ceremony (boyale) takes place for young women, and +the protegees appear abroad drilled under the surveillance of an old +lady to the carrying of water. They are clad during the whole time in a +dress composed of ropes made of alternate pumpkin-seeds and bits of reed +strung together, and wound round the body in a figure-of-eight fashion. +They are inured in this way to bear fatigue, and carry large pots of +water under the guidance of the stern old hag. They have often scars +from bits of burning charcoal having been applied to the forearm, which +must have been done to test their power of bearing pain. + +The Bamangwato hills are part of the range called Bakaa. The Bakaa +tribe, however, removed to Kolobeng, and is now joined to that of +Sechele. The range stands about 700 or 800 feet above the plains, and +is composed of great masses of black basalt. It is probably part of +the latest series of volcanic rocks in South Africa. At the eastern end +these hills have curious fungoid or cup-shaped hollows, of a size +which suggests the idea of craters. Within these are masses of the rock +crystallized in the columnar form of this formation. The tops of the +columns are quite distinct, of the hexagonal form, like the bottom of +the cells of a honeycomb, but they are not parted from each other as in +the Cave of Fingal. In many parts the lava-streams may be recognized, +for there the rock is rent and split in every direction, but no soil is +yet found in the interstices. When we were sitting in the evening, after +a hot day, it was quite common to hear these masses of basalt split and +fall among each other with the peculiar ringing sound which makes people +believe that this rock contains much iron. Several large masses, in +splitting thus by the cold acting suddenly on parts expanded by the heat +of the day, have slipped down the sides of the hills, and, impinging +against each other, have formed cavities in which the Bakaa took refuge +against their enemies. The numerous chinks and crannies left by these +huge fragments made it quite impossible for their enemies to smoke them +out, as was done by the Boers to the people of Mankopane. + +This mass of basalt, about six miles long, has tilted up the rocks on +both the east and west; these upheaved rocks are the ancient silurian +schists which formed the bottom of the great primaeval valley, and, like +all the recent volcanic rocks of this country, have a hot fountain in +their vicinity, namely, that of Serinane. + +In passing through these hills on our way north we enter a pass named +Manakalongwe, or Unicorn's Pass. The unicorn here is a large edible +caterpillar, with an erect, horn-like tail. The pass was also called +Porapora (or gurgling of water), from a stream having run through it. +The scene must have been very different in former times from what it is +now. This is part of the River Mahalapi, which so-called river scarcely +merits the name, any more than the meadows of Edinburgh deserve the +title of North Loch. These hills are the last we shall see for months. +The country beyond consisted of large patches of trap-covered tufa, +having little soil or vegetation except tufts of grass and wait-a-bit +thorns, in the midst of extensive sandy, grass-covered plains. These +yellow-colored, grassy plains, with moretloa and mahatla bushes, form +quite a characteristic feature of the country. The yellow or dun-color +prevails during a great part of the year. The Bakwain hills are an +exception to the usual flat surface, for they are covered with green +trees to their tops, and the valleys are often of the most lovely green. +The trees are larger too, and even the plains of the Bakwain country +contain trees instead of bushes. If you look north from the hills we are +now leaving, the country partakes of this latter character. It appears +as if it were a flat covered with a forest of ordinary-sized trees from +20 to 30 feet high, but when you travel over it they are not so closely +planted but that a wagon with care may be guided among them. The grass +grows in tufts of the size of one's hat, with bare soft sand between. +Nowhere here have we an approach to English lawns, or the pleasing +appearance of English greensward. + +In no part of this country could European grain be cultivated without +irrigation. The natives all cultivate the dourrha or holcus sorghum, +maize, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, and different kinds of beans; and +they are entirely dependent for the growth of these on rains. Their +instrument of culture is the hoe, and the chief labor falls on the +female portion of the community. In this respect the Bechuanas closely +resemble the Caffres. The men engage in hunting, milk the cows, and +have the entire control of the cattle; they prepare the skins, make the +clothing, and in many respects may be considered a nation of tailors. + +When at Sekomi's we generally have heard his praises sounded by a +man who rises at break of day, and utters at the top of his voice the +oration which that ruler is said to have composed at his boguera. This +repetition of his "leina", or oration, is so pleasing to a chief, that +he generally sends a handsome present to the man who does it. + +JANUARY 28TH. Passing on to Letloche, about twenty miles beyond the +Bamangwato, we found a fine supply of water. This is a point of so much +interest in that country that the first question we ask of passers +by is, "Have you had water?" the first inquiry a native puts to a +fellow-countryman is, "Where is the rain?" and, though they are by +no means an untruthful nation, the answer generally is, "I don't +know--there is none--we are killed with hunger and by the sun." If news +is asked for, they commence with, "There is no news: I heard some lies +only," and then tell all they know. + +This spot was Mr. Gordon Cumming's furthest station north. Our house +at Kolobeng having been quite in the hunting-country, rhinoceros and +buffaloes several times rushed past, and I was able to shoot the latter +twice from our own door. We were favored by visits from this famous +hunter during each of the five years of his warfare with wild animals. +Many English gentlemen following the same pursuits paid their guides and +assistants so punctually that in making arrangements for them we had to +be careful that four did not go where two only were wanted: they knew so +well that an Englishman would pay that they depended implicitly on +his word of honor, and not only would they go and hunt for five or six +months in the north, enduring all the hardships of that trying mode +of life, with little else but meat of game to subsist on, but they +willingly went seven hundred or eight hundred miles to Graham's Town, +receiving for wages only a musket worth fifteen shillings. + +No one ever deceived them except one man; and as I believed that he was +afflicted with a slight degree of the insanity of greediness, I upheld +the honor of the English name by paying his debts. As the guides of Mr. +Cumming were furnished through my influence, and usually got some strict +charges as to their behavior before parting, looking upon me in the +light of a father, they always came to give me an account of their +service, and told most of those hunting adventures which have since been +given to the world, before we had the pleasure of hearing our friend +relate them himself by our own fireside. I had thus a tolerably good +opportunity of testing their accuracy, and I have no hesitation in +saying that for those who love that sort of thing Mr. Cumming's book +conveys a truthful idea of South African hunting. Some things in it +require explanation, but the numbers of animals said to have been met +with and killed are by no means improbable, considering the amount of +large game then in the country. Two other gentlemen hunting in the same +region destroyed in one season no fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses +alone. Sportsmen, however, would not now find an equal number, for as +guns are introduced among the tribes all these fine animals melt away +like snow in spring. In the more remote districts, where fire-arms have +not yet been introduced, with the single exception of the rhinoceros, +the game is to be found in numbers much greater than Mr. Cumming ever +saw. The tsetse is, however, an insuperable barrier to hunting with +horses there, and Europeans can do nothing on foot. The step of the +elephant when charging the hunter, though apparently not quick, is so +long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a canter. A young +sportsman, no matter how great among pheasants, foxes, and hounds, would +do well to pause before resolving to brave fever for the excitement +of risking such a terrific charge; the scream or trumpeting of this +enormous brute when infuriated is more like what the shriek of a French +steam-whistle would be to a man standing on the dangerous part of +a rail-road than any other earthly sound: a horse unused to it will +sometimes stand shivering instead of taking his rider out of danger. It +has happened often that the poor animal's legs do their duty so badly +that he falls and causes his rider to be trodden into a mummy; or, +losing his presence of mind, the rider may allow the horse to dash under +a tree and crack his cranium against a branch. As one charge from +an elephant has made embryo Nimrods bid a final adieu to the chase, +incipient Gordon Cummings might try their nerves by standing on railways +till the engines were within a few yards of them. Hunting elephants on +foot would be not less dangerous,* unless the Ceylon mode of killing +them by one shot could be followed: it has never been tried in Africa. + + * Since writing the above statement, it has received + confirmation in the reported death of Mr. Wahlberg while + hunting elephants on foot at Lake Ngami. + +Advancing to some wells beyond Letloche, at a spot named Kanne, we +found them carefully hedged round by the people of a Bakalahari village +situated near the spot. We had then sixty miles of country in front +without water, and very distressing for the oxen, as it is generally +deep soft sand. There is one sucking-place, around which were +congregated great numbers of Bushwomen with their egg-shells and reeds. +Mathuluane now contained no water, and Motlatsa only a small supply, so +we sent the oxen across the country to the deep well Nkauane, and half +were lost on the way. When found at last they had been five whole days +without water. Very large numbers of elands were met with as usual, +though they seldom can get a sip of drink. Many of the plains here have +large expanses of grass without trees, but you seldom see a treeless +horizon. The ostrich is generally seen quietly feeding on some spot +where no one can approach him without being detected by his wary eye. As +the wagon moves along far to the windward he thinks it is intending to +circumvent him, so he rushes up a mile or so from the leeward, and so +near to the front oxen that one sometimes gets a shot at the silly bird. +When he begins to run all the game in sight follow his example. I have +seen this folly taken advantage of when he was feeding quietly in a +valley open at both ends. A number of men would commence running, as +if to cut off his retreat from the end through which the wind came; and +although he had the whole country hundreds of miles before him by going +to the other end, on he madly rushed to get past the men, and so was +speared. He never swerves from the course he once adopts, but only +increases his speed. + +When the ostrich is feeding his pace is from twenty to twenty-two +inches; when walking, but not feeding, it is twenty-six inches; and +when terrified, as in the case noticed, it is from eleven and a half to +thirteen and even fourteen feet in length. Only in one case was I at all +satisfied of being able to count the rate of speed by a stop-watch, and, +if I am not mistaken, there were thirty in ten seconds; generally +one's eye can no more follow the legs than it can the spokes of a +carriage-wheel in rapid motion. If we take the above number, and twelve +feet stride as the average pace, we have a speed of twenty-six miles an +hour. It can not be very much above that, and is therefore slower than +a railway locomotive. They are sometimes shot by the horseman making a +cross cut to their undeviating course, but few Englishmen ever succeed +in killing them. + +The ostrich begins to lay her eggs before she has fixed on a spot for a +nest, which is only a hollow a few inches deep in the sand, and about a +yard in diameter. Solitary eggs, named by the Bechuanas "lesetla", are +thus found lying forsaken all over the country, and become a prey to the +jackal. She seems averse to risking a spot for a nest, and often lays +her eggs in that of another ostrich, so that as many as forty-five +have been found in one nest. Some eggs contain small concretions of the +matter which forms the shell, as occurs also in the egg of the common +fowl: this has given rise to the idea of stones in the eggs. Both male +and female assist in the incubations; but the numbers of females being +always greatest, it is probable that cases occur in which the females +have the entire charge. Several eggs lie out of the nest, and are +thought to be intended as food for the first of the newly-hatched brood +till the rest come out and enable the whole to start in quest of food. +I have several times seen newly-hatched young in charge of the cock, +who made a very good attempt at appearing lame in the plover fashion, +in order to draw off the attention of pursuers. The young squat down +and remain immovable when too small to run far, but attain a wonderful +degree of speed when about the size of common fowls. It can not be +asserted that ostriches are polygamous, though they often appear to +be so. When caught they are easily tamed, but are of no use in their +domesticated state. + +The egg is possessed of very great vital power. One kept in a room +during more than three months, in a temperature about 60 Deg., when +broken was found to have a partially-developed live chick in it. The +Bushmen carefully avoid touching the eggs, or leaving marks of human +feet near them, when they find a nest. They go up the wind to the +spot, and with a long stick remove some of them occasionally, and, by +preventing any suspicion, keep the hen laying on for months, as we do +with fowls. The eggs have a strong, disagreeable flavor, which only the +keen appetite of the Desert can reconcile one to. The Hottentots use +their trowsers to carry home the twenty or twenty-five eggs usually +found in a nest; and it has happened that an Englishman, intending to +imitate this knowing dodge, comes to the wagons with blistered legs, +and, after great toil, finds all the eggs uneatable, from having been +some time sat upon. Our countrymen invariably do best when they continue +to think, speak, and act in their own proper character. + +The food of the ostrich consists of pods and seeds of different kinds +of leguminous plants, with leaves of various plants; and, as these are +often hard and dry, he picks up a great quantity of pebbles, many of +which are as large as marbles. He picks up also some small bulbs, and +occasionally a wild melon to afford moisture, for one was found with a +melon which had choked him by sticking in his throat. It requires the +utmost address of the Bushmen, crawling for miles on their stomachs, to +stalk them successfully; yet the quantity of feathers collected annually +shows that the numbers slain must be considerable, as each bird has +only a few in the wings and tail. The male bird is of a jet black +glossy color, with the single exception of the white feathers, which +are objects of trade. Nothing can be finer than the adaptation of those +flossy feathers for the climate of the Kalahari, where these birds +abound; for they afford a perfect shade to the body, with free +ventilation beneath them. The hen ostrich is of a dark brownish-gray +color, and so are the half-grown cocks. + +The organs of vision in this bird are placed so high that he can detect +an enemy at a great distance, but the lion sometimes kills him. The +flesh is white and coarse, though, when in good condition, it resembles +in some degree that of a tough turkey. It seeks safety in flight; but +when pursued by dogs it may be seen to turn upon them and inflict a +kick, which is vigorously applied, and sometimes breaks the dog's back. + + + + +Chapter 8. + +Effects of Missionary Efforts--Belief in the Deity--Ideas of the +Bakwains on Religion--Departure from their Country--Salt-pans--Sour +Curd--Nchokotsa--Bitter Waters--Thirst suffered by the wild +Animals--Wanton Cruelty in Hunting--Ntwetwe--Mowana-trees--Their +extraordinary Vitality--The Mopane-tree--The Morala--The Bushmen--Their +Superstitions--Elephant-hunting--Superiority of civilized +over barbarous Sportsmen--The Chief Kaisa--His Fear of +Responsibility--Beauty of the Country at Unku--The Mohonono Bush--Severe +Labor in cutting our Way--Party seized with Fever--Escape of our +Cattle--Bakwain Mode of recapturing them--Vagaries of sick Servants-- +Discovery of grape-bearing Vines--An Ant-eater--Difficulty of passing +through the Forest--Sickness of my Companion--The Bushmen--Their +Mode of destroying Lions--Poisons--The solitary Hill--A picturesque +Valley--Beauty of the Country--Arrive at the Sanshureh River--The +flooded Prairies--A pontooning Expedition--A night Bivouac--The Chobe-- +Arrive at the Village of Moremi--Surprise of the Makololo at our sudden +Appearance--Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti. + + + +The Bakalahari, who live at Motlatsa wells, have always been very +friendly to us, and listen attentively to instruction conveyed to them +in their own tongue. It is, however, difficult to give an idea to a +European of the little effect teaching produces, because no one can +realize the degradation to which their minds have been sunk by centuries +of barbarism and hard struggling for the necessaries of life: like most +others, they listen with respect and attention, but, when we kneel down +and address an unseen Being, the position and the act often appear +to them so ridiculous that they can not refrain from bursting into +uncontrollable laughter. After a few services they get over this +tendency. I was once present when a missionary attempted to sing among a +wild heathen tribe of Bechuanas, who had no music in their composition; +the effect on the risible faculties of the audience was such that the +tears actually ran down their cheeks. Nearly all their thoughts are +directed to the supply of their bodily wants, and this has been the case +with the race for ages. If asked, then, what effect the preaching of the +Gospel has at the commencement on such individuals, I am unable to tell, +except that some have confessed long afterward that they then first +began to pray in secret. Of the effects of a long-continued course of +instruction there can be no reasonable doubt, as mere nominal belief +has never been considered sufficient proof of conversion by any body of +missionaries; and, after the change which has been brought about by this +agency, we have good reason to hope well for the future--those I have +myself witnessed behaving in the manner described, when kindly treated +in sickness often utter imploring words to Jesus, and I believe +sometimes really do pray to him in their afflictions. As that great +Redeemer of the guilty seeks to save all he can, we may hope that they +find mercy through His blood, though little able to appreciate the +sacrifice He made. The indirect and scarcely appreciable blessings of +Christian missionaries going about doing good are thus probably not so +despicable as some might imagine; there is no necessity for beginning to +tell even the most degraded of these people of the existence of a God +or of a future state, the facts being universally admitted. Every thing +that can not be accounted for by common causes is ascribed to the Deity, +as creation, sudden death, etc. "How curiously God made these things!" +is a common expression; as is also, "He was not killed by disease, he +was killed by God." And, when speaking of the departed--though there +is naught in the physical appearance of the dead to justify the +expression--they say, "He has gone to the gods," the phrase being +identical with "abiit ad plures". + +On questioning intelligent men among the Bakwains as to their former +knowledge of good and evil, of God and the future state, they have +scouted the idea of any of them ever having been without a tolerably +clear conception on all these subjects. Respecting their sense of right +and wrong, they profess that nothing we indicate as sin ever appeared to +them as otherwise, except the statement that it was wrong to have more +wives than one; and they declare that they spoke in the same way of the +direct influence exercised by God in giving rain in answer to prayers +of the rain-makers, and in granting deliverances in times of danger, as +they do now, before they ever heard of white men. The want, however, +of any form of public worship, or of idols, or of formal prayers or +sacrifice, make both Caffres and Bechuanas appear as among the most +godless races of mortals known any where. But, though they all possess a +distinct knowledge of a deity and of a future state, they show so little +reverence, and feel so little connection with either, that it is +not surprising that some have supposed them entirely ignorant on the +subject. At Lotlakani we met an old Bushman who at first seemed to have +no conception of morality whatever; when his heart was warmed by our +presents of meat, he sat by the fire relating his early adventures: +among these was killing five other Bushmen. "Two," said he, counting on +his fingers, "were females, one a male, and the other two calves." "What +a villain you are, to boast of killing women and children of your own +nation! what will God say when you appear before him?" "He will say," +replied he, "that I was a very clever fellow." This man now appeared to +me as without any conscience, and, of course, responsibility; but, on +trying to enlighten him by further conversation, I discovered that, +though he was employing the word that is used among the Bakwains when +speaking of the Deity, he had only the idea of a chief, and was all +the while referring to Sekomi, while his victims were a party of rebel +Bushmen against whom he had been sent. If I had known the name of God +in the Bushman tongue the mistake could scarcely have occurred. It must, +however, be recollected, while reflecting on the degradation of the +natives of South Africa, that the farther north, the more distinct do +the native ideas on religious subjects become, and I have not had any +intercourse with either Caffres or Bushmen in their own tongues. + +Leaving Motlatsa on the 8th of February, 1853, we passed down the +Mokoko, which, in the memory of persons now living, was a flowing +stream. We ourselves once saw a heavy thunder-shower make it assume +its ancient appearance of running to the north. Between Lotlakani and +Nchokotsa we passed the small well named Orapa; and another called +Thutsa lay a little to our right--its water is salt and purgative; +the salt-pan Chuantsa, having a cake of salt one inch and a half in +thickness, is about ten miles to the northeast of Orapa. This deposit +contains a bitter salt in addition, probably the nitrate of lime; the +natives, in order to render it palatable and wholesome, mix the salt +with the juice of a gummy plant, then place it in the sand and bake it +by making a fire over it; the lime then becomes insoluble and tasteless. + +The Bamangwato keep large flocks of sheep and goats at various spots on +this side of the Desert. They thrive wonderfully well wherever salt +and bushes are to be found. The milk of goats does not coagulate with +facility, like that of cows, on account of its richness; but the natives +have discovered that the infusion of the fruit of a solanaceous plant, +Toluane, quickly produces the effect. The Bechuanas put their milk into +sacks made of untanned hide, with the hair taken off. Hung in the sun, +it soon coagulates; the whey is then drawn off by a plug at the bottom, +and fresh milk added, until the sack is full of a thick, sour curd, +which, when one becomes used to it, is delicious. The rich mix this +in the porridge into which they convert their meal, and, as it is thus +rendered nutritious and strength-giving, an expression of scorn is +sometimes heard respecting the poor or weak, to the effect that "they +are water-porridge men." It occupies the place of our roast beef. + +At Nchokotsa, the rainy season having this year been delayed beyond the +usual time, we found during the day the thermometer stand at 96 Deg. +in the coolest possible shade. This height at Kolobeng always portended +rain at hand. At Kuruman, when it rises above 84 Deg., the same +phenomenon may be considered near; while farther north it rises above +100 Deg. before the cooling influence of the evaporation from rain may +be expected. Here the bulb of the thermometer, placed two inches beneath +the soil, stood at 128 Deg. All around Nchokotsa the country looked +parched, and the glare from the white efflorescence which covers the +extensive pans on all sides was most distressing to the eyes. The water +of Nchokotsa was bitter, and presented indications not to be mistaken +of having passed through animal systems before. All these waters contain +nitrates, which stimulate the kidneys and increase the thirst. The fresh +additions of water required in cooking meat, each imparting its own +portion of salt, make one grumble at the cook for putting too much +seasoning in, while in fact he has put in none at all, except that +contained in the water. Of bitter, bad, disgusting waters I have drunk +not a few nauseous draughts; you may try alum, vitriol, boiling, etc., +etc., to convince yourself that you are not more stupid than travelers +you will meet at home, but the ammonia and other salts are there still; +and the only remedy is to get away as quickly as possible to the north. + +We dug out several wells; and as we had on each occasion to wait till +the water flowed in again, and then allow our cattle to feed a day or +two and slake their thirst thoroughly, as far as that could be done, +before starting, our progress was but slow. At Koobe there was such a +mass of mud in the pond, worked up by the wallowing rhinoceros to the +consistency of mortar, that only by great labor could we get a space +cleared at one side for the water to ooze through and collect in for the +oxen. Should the rhinoceros come back, a single roll in the great mass +we had thrown on one side would have rendered all our labor vain. It was +therefore necessary for us to guard the spot at night. On these great +flats all around we saw in the white sultry glare herds of zebras, gnus, +and occasionally buffaloes, standing for days, looking wistfully toward +the wells for a share of the nasty water. It is mere wanton cruelty to +take advantage of the necessities of these poor animals, and shoot them +down one after another, without intending to make the smallest use of +either the flesh, skins, or horns. In shooting by night, animals are +more frequently wounded than killed; the flowing life-stream increases +the thirst, so that in desperation they come slowly up to drink in spite +of the danger, "I must drink, though I die." The ostrich, even when not +wounded, can not, with all his wariness, resist the excessive desire to +slake his burning thirst. It is Bushman-like practice to take advantage +of its piteous necessities, for most of the feathers they obtain +are procured in this way; but they eat the flesh, and are so far +justifiable. + +I could not order my men to do what I would not do myself, but, though I +tried to justify myself on the plea of necessity, I could not adopt this +mode of hunting. If your object is to secure the best specimens for +a museum, it may be allowable, and even deserving of commendation, as +evincing a desire to kill only those really wanted; but if, as has been +practiced by some Griquas and others who came into the country after Mr. +Cumming, and fired away indiscriminately, great numbers of animals are +wounded and allowed to perish miserably, or are killed on the spot +and left to be preyed on by vultures and hyenas, and all for the sole +purpose of making a "bag", then I take it to be evident that such +sportsmen are pretty far gone in the hunting form of insanity. + +My men shot a black rhinoceros in this way, and I felt glad to get away +from the only place in which I ever had any share in night-hunting. +We passed over the immense pan Ntwetwe, on which the latitude could +be taken as at sea. Great tracts of this part of the country are of +calcareous tufa, with only a thin coating of soil; numbers of "baobab" +and "mopane" trees abound all over this hard, smooth surface. About +two miles beyond the northern bank of the pan we unyoked under a fine +specimen of the baobab, here called, in the language of Bechuanas, +Mowana; it consisted of six branches united into one trunk. At three +feet from the ground it was eighty-five feet in circumference. + +These mowana-trees are the most wonderful examples of vitality in the +country; it was therefore with surprise that we came upon a dead one +at Tlomtla, a few miles beyond this spot. It is the same as those which +Adamson and others believed, from specimens seen in Western Africa, +to have been alive before the flood. Arguing with a peculiar mental +idiosyncracy resembling color-blindness, common among the French of the +time, these savans came to the conclusion that "therefore there never +was any flood at all." I would back a true mowana against a dozen +floods, provided you do not boil it in hot sea-water; but I can not +believe that any of those now alive had a chance of being subjected to +the experiment of even the Noachian deluge. The natives make a strong +cord from the fibres contained in the pounded bark. The whole of the +trunk, as high as they can reach, is consequently often quite denuded of +its covering, which in the case of almost any other tree would cause its +death, but this has no effect on the mowana except to make it throw out +a new bark, which is done in the way of granulation. This stripping of +the bark is repeated frequently, so that it is common to see the lower +five or six feet an inch or two less in diameter than the parts above; +even portions of the bark which have broken in the process of being +taken off, but remain separated from the parts below, though still +connected with the tree above, continue to grow, and resemble closely +marks made in the necks of the cattle of the island of Mull and of +Caffre oxen, where a piece of skin is detached and allowed to hang down. +No external injury, not even a fire, can destroy this tree from without; +nor can any injury be done from within, as it is quite common to find it +hollow; and I have seen one in which twenty or thirty men could lie down +and sleep as in a hut. Nor does cutting down exterminate it, for I saw +instances in Angola in which it continued to grow in length after it +was lying on the ground. Those trees called exogenous grow by means +of successive layers on the outside. The inside may be dead, or even +removed altogether, without affecting the life of the tree. This is the +case with most of the trees of our climate. The other class is called +endogenous, and increases by layers applied to the inside; and when +the hollow there is full, the growth is stopped--the tree must die. +Any injury is felt most severely by the first class on the bark; by the +second on the inside; while the inside of the exogenous may be removed, +and the outside of the endogenous may be cut, without stopping the +growth in the least. The mowana possesses the powers of both. The reason +is that each of the laminae possesses its own independent vitality; in +fact, the baobab is rather a gigantic bulb run up to seed than a tree. +Each of eighty-four concentric rings had, in the case mentioned, grown +an inch after the tree had been blown over. The roots, which may often +be observed extending along the surface of the ground forty or fifty +yards from the trunk, also retain their vitality after the tree is laid +low; and the Portuguese now know that the best way to treat them is to +let them alone, for they occupy much more room when cut down than when +growing. + +The wood is so spongy and soft that an axe can be struck in so far with +a good blow that there is great difficulty in pulling it out again. +In the dead mowana mentioned the concentric rings were well seen. The +average for a foot at three different places was eighty-one and a half +of these rings. Each of the laminae can be seen to be composed of two, +three, or four layers of ligneous tubes; but supposing each ring the +growth of one year, and the semidiameter of a mowana of one hundred feet +in circumference about seventeen feet, if the central point were in the +centre of the tree, then its age would lack some centuries of being as +old as the Christian era (1400). Though it possesses amazing vitality, +it is difficult to believe that this great baby-looking bulb or tree is +as old as the Pyramids. + +The mopane-tree ('bauhinia') is remarkable for the little shade its +leaves afford. They fold together and stand nearly perpendicular during +the heat of the day, so that only the shadow of their edges comes to +the ground. On these leaves the small larvae of a winged insect appear +covered over with a sweet, gummy substance. The people collect this +in great quantities, and use it as food;* and the lopane--large +caterpillars three inches long, which feed on the leaves, and are seen +strung together--share the same fate. + + * I am favored with Mr. Westwood's remarks on this insect as + follows: + + "Taylor Institution, Oxford, July 9, 1857. + + "The insect (and its secretion) on the leaves of the bauhinia, + and which is eaten by the Africans, proves to be a species of + Psylla, a genus of small, very active Homoptera, of which we + have one very common species in the box; but our species, + Psylla buxi, emits its secretion in the shape of very long, + white, cotton-like filaments. But there is a species in New + Holland, found on the leaves of the Eucalyptus, which emits a + secretion very similar to that of Dr. Livingstone's species. + This Australian secretion (and its insect originator) is known + by the name of wo-me-la, and, like Dr. Livingstone's, it is + scraped off the leaves and eaten by the aborigines as a + saccharine dainty. The insects found beneath the secretion, + brought home by Dr. Livingstone, are in the pupa state, being + flattened, with large scales at the sides of the body, + inclosing the future wings of the insect. The body is pale + yellowish-colored, with dark-brown spots. It will be + impossible to describe the species technically until we + receive the perfect insect. The secretion itself is flat and + circular, apparently deposited in concentric rings, gradually + increasing in size till the patches are about a quarter or a + third of an inch in diameter. + + Jno. O. Westwood." + +In passing along we see every where the power of vegetation in breaking +up the outer crust of tufa. A mopane-tree, growing in a small chink, as +it increases in size rends and lifts up large fragments of the rock +all around it, subjecting them to the disintegrating influence of the +atmosphere. The wood is hard, and of a fine red color, and is named +iron-wood by the Portuguese. The inhabitants, observing that the +mopane is more frequently struck by lightning than other trees, +caution travelers never to seek its shade when a thunder-storm is +near--"Lightning hates it;" while another tree, the "Morala", which has +three spines opposite each other on the branches, and has never been +known to be touched by lightning, is esteemed, even as far as Angola, a +protection against the electric fluid. Branches of it may be seen placed +on the houses of the Portuguese for the same purpose. The natives, +moreover, believe that a man is thoroughly protected from an enraged +elephant if he can get into the shade of this tree. There may not be +much in this, but there is frequently some foundation of truth in their +observations. + +At Rapesh we came among our old friends the Bushmen, under Horoye. This +man, Horoye, a good specimen of that tribe, and his son Mokantsa and +others, were at least six feet high, and of a darker color than the +Bushmen of the south. They have always plenty of food and water; and as +they frequent the Zouga as often as the game in company with which they +live, their life is very different from that of the inhabitants of the +thirsty plains of the Kalahari. The animal they refrain from eating is +the goat, which fact, taken in connection with the superstitious dread +which exists in every tribe toward a particular animal, is significant +of their feelings to the only animals they could have domesticated in +their desert home. They are a merry laughing set, and do not tell lies +wantonly. They have in their superstitious rites more appearance of +worship than the Bechuanas; and at a Bushman's grave we once came to on +the Zouga, the observances showed distinctly that they regarded the +dead as still in another state of being; for they addressed him, and +requested him not to be offended even though they wished still to remain +a little while longer in this world. + +Those among whom we now were kill many elephants, and when the moon is +full choose that time for the chase, on account of its coolness. Hunting +this animal is the best test of courage this country affords. The +Bushmen choose the moment succeeding a charge, when the elephant is out +of breath, to run in and give him a stab with their long-bladed spears. +In this case the uncivilized have the advantage over us, but I believe +that with half their training Englishmen would beat the Bushmen. Our +present form of civilization does not necessarily produce effeminacy, +though it unquestionably increases the beauty, courage, and physical +powers of the race. When at Kolobeng I took notes of the different +numbers of elephants killed in the course of the season by the various +parties which went past our dwelling, in order to form an idea of the +probable annual destruction of this noble animal. There were parties of +Griquas, Bechuanas, Boers, and Englishmen. All were eager to distinguish +themselves, and success depended mainly on the courage which leads the +huntsman to go close to the animal, and not waste the force of his shot +on the air. It was noticeable that the average for the natives was under +one per man, for the Griquas one per man, for the Boers two, and for +the English officers twenty each. This was the more remarkable, as the +Griquas, Boers, and Bechuanas employed both dogs and natives to assist +them, while the English hunters generally had no assistance from either. +They approached to within thirty yards of the animal, while the others +stood at a distance of a hundred yards, or even more, and of course +spent all the force of their bullets on the air. One elephant was found +by Mr. Oswell with quite a crowd of bullets in his side, all evidently +fired in this style, and they had not gone near the vital parts. + +It would thus appear that our more barbarous neighbors do not possess +half the courage of the civilized sportsman. And it is probable that in +this respect, as well as in physical development, we are superior to our +ancestors. The coats of mail and greaves of the Knights of Malta, and +the armor from the Tower exhibited at the Eglinton tournament, may be +considered decisive as to the greater size attained by modern civilized +men. + +At Maila we spent a Sunday with Kaisa, the head man of a village of +Mashona, who had fled from the iron sway of Mosilikatse, whose country +lies east of this. I wished him to take charge of a packet of letters +for England, to be forwarded when, as is the custom of the Bamangwato, +the Bechuanas come hither in search of skins and food among the Bushmen; +but he could not be made to comprehend that there was no danger in the +consignment. He feared the responsibility and guilt if any thing should +happen to them; so I had to bid adieu to all hope of letting my family +hear of my welfare till I should reach the west coast. + +At Unku we came into a tract of country which had been visited by +refreshing showers long before, and every spot was covered with grass +run up to seed, and the flowers of the forest were in full bloom. +Instead of the dreary prospect around Koobe and Nchokotsa, we had here a +delightful scene, all the ponds full of water, and the birds twittering +joyfully. As the game can now obtain water every where, they become very +shy, and can not be found in their accustomed haunts. + +1ST MARCH. The thermometer in the shade generally stood at 98 Degrees +from 1 to 3 P.M., but it sank as low as 65 Deg. by night, so that the +heat was by no means exhausting. At the surface of the ground, in the +sun, the thermometer marked 125 Deg., and three inches below it 138 Deg. +The hand can not be held on the ground, and even the horny soles of the +feet of the natives must be protected by sandals of hide; yet the ants +were busy working on it. The water in the ponds was as high as 100 Deg.; +but as water does not conduct heat readily downward, deliciously cool +water may be obtained by any one walking into the middle and lifting up +the water from the bottom to the surface with his hands. + +Proceeding to the north, from Kama-kama, we entered into dense Mohonono +bush, which required the constant application of the axe by three of our +party for two days. This bush has fine silvery leaves, and the bark has +a sweet taste. The elephant, with his usual delicacy of taste, feeds +much on it. On emerging into the plains beyond, we found a number of +Bushmen, who afterward proved very serviceable. The rains had been +copious, but now great numbers of pools were drying up. Lotus-plants +abounded in them, and a low, sweet-scented plant covered their banks. +Breezes came occasionally to us from these drying-up pools, but the +pleasant odor they carried caused sneezing in both myself and people; +and on the 10th of March (when in lat. 19d 16' 11" S., long. 24d 24' E.) +we were brought to a stand by four of the party being seized with fever. +I had seen this disease before, but did not at once recognize it as the +African fever; I imagined it was only a bilious attack, arising from +full feeding on flesh, for, the large game having been very abundant, we +always had a good supply; but instead of the first sufferers recovering +soon, every man of our party was in a few days laid low, except a +Bakwain and myself. He managed the oxen, while I attended to the wants +of the patients, and went out occasionally with the Bushmen to get a +zebra or buffalo, so as to induce them to remain with us. + +Here for the first time I had leisure to follow the instructions of my +kind teacher, Mr. Maclear, and calculated several longitudes from lunar +distances. The hearty manner in which that eminent astronomer and frank, +friendly man had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my +work, conduced more than any thing else to inspire me with perseverance +in making astronomical observations throughout the journey. + +The grass here was so tall that the oxen became uneasy, and one night +the sight of a hyaena made them rush away into the forest to the east +of us. On rising on the morning of the 19th, I found that my Bakwain +lad had run away with them. This I have often seen with persons of this +tribe, even when the cattle are startled by a lion. Away go the young +men in company with them, and dash through bush and brake for miles, +till they think the panic is a little subsided; they then commence +whistling to the cattle in the manner they do when milking the cows: +having calmed them, they remain as a guard till the morning. The men +generally return with their shins well peeled by the thorns. Each +comrade of the Mopato would expect his fellow to act thus, without +looking for any other reward than the brief praise of the chief. Our +lad, Kibopechoe, had gone after the oxen, but had lost them in the rush +through the flat, trackless forest. He remained on their trail all the +next day and all the next night. On Sunday morning, as I was setting off +in search of him, I found him near the wagon. He had found the oxen late +in the afternoon of Saturday, and had been obliged to stand by them all +night. It was wonderful how he managed without a compass, and in such +a country, to find his way home at all, bringing about forty oxen with +him. + +The Bechuanas will keep on the sick-list as long as they feel any +weakness; so I at last began to be anxious that they should make +a little exertion to get forward on our way. One of them, however, +happening to move a hundred yards from the wagon, fell down, and, +being unobserved, remained the whole night in the pouring rain totally +insensible; another was subjected to frequent swooning; but, making beds +in the wagons for these our worst cases, with the help of the Bakwain +and the Bushmen, we moved slowly on. We had to nurse the sick like +children; and, like children recovering from illness, the better they +became the more impudent they grew. This was seen in the peremptory +orders they would give with their now piping voices. Nothing that we did +pleased them; and the laughter with which I received their ebullitions, +though it was only the real expression of gladness at their recovery, +and amusement at the ridiculous part they acted, only increased their +chagrin. The want of power in the man who guided the two front oxen, or, +as he was called, the "leader", caused us to be entangled with trees, +both standing and fallen, and the labor of cutting them down was even +more severe than ordinary; but, notwithstanding an immense amount of +toil, my health continued good. + +We wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path, so kept a course on +the magnetic meridian from Lurilopepe. The necessity of making a new +path much increased our toil. We were, however, rewarded in lat. 18 +Degrees with a sight we had not enjoyed the year before, namely, large +patches of grape-bearing vines. There they stood before my eyes; but the +sight was so entirely unexpected that I stood some time gazing at the +clusters of grapes with which they were loaded, with no more thought of +plucking than if I had been beholding them in a dream. The Bushmen know +and eat them; but they are not well flavored on account of the great +astringency of the seeds, which are in shape and size like split peas. +The elephants are fond of the fruit, plant, and root alike. I here found +an insect which preys on ants; it is about an inch and a quarter long, +as thick as a crow-quill, and covered with black hair. It puts its head +into a little hole in the ground, and quivers its tail rapidly; the ants +come near to see it, and it snaps up each as he comes within the range +of the forceps on its tail. As its head is beneath the ground, it +becomes a question how it can guide its tail to the ants. It is probably +a new species of ant-lion ('Myrmeleon formicaleo'), great numbers of +which, both in the larvae and complete state, are met with. The ground +under every tree is dotted over with their ingenious pitfalls, and the +perfect insect, the form of which most persons are familiar with in the +dragon-fly, may be seen using its tail in the same active manner as +this insect did. Two may be often seen joined in their flight, the +one holding on by the tail-forceps to the neck of the other. On first +observing this imperfect insect, I imagined the forceps were on its +head; but when the insect moved, their true position was seen. + +The forest, through which we were slowly toiling, daily became more +dense, and we were kept almost constantly at work with the axe; there +was much more leafiness in the trees here than farther south. The leaves +are chiefly of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms, and are exceedingly +beautiful when seen against the sky; a great variety of the +papilionaceous family grow in this part of the country. + +Fleming had until this time always assisted to drive his own wagon, but +about the end of March he knocked up, as well as his people. As I could +not drive two wagons, I shared with him the remaining water, half a +caskful, and went on, with the intention of coming back for him as +soon as we should reach the next pool. Heavy rain now commenced; I was +employed the whole day in cutting down trees, and every stroke of the +axe brought down a thick shower on my back, which in the hard work was +very refreshing, as the water found its way down into my shoes. In the +evening we met some Bushmen, who volunteered to show us a pool; and +having unyoked, I walked some miles in search of it. As it became dark +they showed their politeness--a quality which is by no means confined +entirely to the civilized--by walking in front, breaking the branches +which hung across the path, and pointing out the fallen trees. On +returning to the wagon, we found that being left alone had brought out +some of Fleming's energy, for he had managed to come up. + +As the water in this pond dried up, we were soon obliged to move again. +One of the Bushmen took out his dice, and, after throwing them, said +that God told him to go home. He threw again in order to show me the +command, but the opposite result followed; so he remained and was +useful, for we lost the oxen again by a lion driving them off to a very +great distance. The lions here are not often heard. They seem to have +a wholesome dread of the Bushmen, who, when they observe evidence of a +lion's having made a full meal, follow up his spoor so quietly that +his slumbers are not disturbed. One discharges a poisoned arrow from a +distance of only a few feet, while his companion simultaneously throws +his skin cloak on the beast's head. The sudden surprise makes the lion +lose his presence of mind, and he bounds away in the greatest confusion +and terror. Our friends here showed me the poison which they use on +these occasions. It is the entrails of a caterpillar called N'gwa, half +an inch long. They squeeze out these, and place them all around the +bottom of the barb, and allow the poison to dry in the sun. They are +very careful in cleaning their nails after working with it, as a small +portion introduced into a scratch acts like morbid matter in dissection +wounds. The agony is so great that the person cuts himself, calls for +his mother's breast as if he were returned in idea to his childhood +again, or flies from human habitations a raging maniac. The effects +on the lion are equally terrible. He is heard moaning in distress, and +becomes furious, biting the trees and ground in rage. + +As the Bushmen have the reputation of curing the wounds of this poison, +I asked how this was effected. They said that they administer the +caterpillar itself in combination with fat; they also rub fat into the +wound, saying that "the N'gwa wants fat, and, when it does not find +it in the body, kills the man: we give it what it wants, and it is +content:" a reason which will commend itself to the enlightened among +ourselves. + +The poison more generally employed is the milky juice of the tree +Euphorbia ('E. arborescens'). This is particularly obnoxious to the +equine race. When a quantity is mixed with the water of a pond a whole +herd of zebras will fall dead from the effects of the poison before they +have moved away two miles. It does not, however, kill oxen or men. On +them it acts as a drastic purgative only. This substance is used all +over the country, though in some places the venom of serpents and a +certain bulb, 'Amaryllis toxicaria', are added, in order to increase the +virulence. + +Father Pedro, a Jesuit, who lived at Zumbo, made a balsam, containing a +number of plants and CASTOR OIL, as a remedy for poisoned arrow-wounds. +It is probable that he derived his knowledge from the natives as I +did, and that the reputed efficacy of the balsam is owing to its fatty +constituent. + +In cases of the bites of serpents a small key ought to be pressed +down firmly on the wound, the orifice of the key being applied to the +puncture, until a cupping-glass can be got from one of the natives. A +watch-key pressed firmly on the point stung by a scorpion extracts the +poison, and a mixture of fat or oil and ipecacuanha relieves the pain. + +The Bushmen of these districts are generally fine, well-made men, and +are nearly independent of every one. We observed them to be fond of +a root somewhat like a kidney potato, and the kernel of a nut, which +Fleming thought was a kind of betel; the tree is a fine, large-spreading +one, and the leaves palmate. From the quantities of berries and the +abundance of game in these parts, the Bushmen can scarcely ever be +badly off for food. As I could, without much difficulty, keep them well +supplied with meat, and wished them to remain, I proposed that they +should bring their wives to get a share, but they remarked that the +women could always take care of themselves. + +None of the men of our party had died, but two seemed unlikely to +recover; and Kibopechoe, my willing Mokwain, at last became troubled +with boils, and then got all the symptoms of fever. As he lay down, the +others began to move about, and complained of weakness only. Believing +that frequent change of place was conducive to their recovery, we moved +along as much as we could, and came to the hill N'gwa (lat. 18d 27' 20" +S., long. 24d 13' 36" E.). This being the only hill we had seen since +leaving Bamangwato, we felt inclined to take off our hats to it. It +is three or four hundred feet high, and covered with trees. Its +geographical position is pretty accurately laid down from occultation +and other observations. I may mention that the valley on its northern +side, named Kandehy or Kandehai, is as picturesque a spot as is to be +seen in this part of Africa. The open glade, surrounded by forest trees +of various hues, had a little stream meandering in the centre. A herd +of reddish-colored antelopes (pallahs) stood on one side, near a +large baobab, looking at us, and ready to run up the hill; while gnus, +tsessebes, and zebras gazed in astonishment at the intruders. Some fed +carelessly, and others put on the peculiar air of displeasure which +these animals sometimes assume before they resolve on flight. A large +white rhinoceros came along the bottom of the valley with his slow +sauntering gait without noticing us; he looked as if he meant to indulge +in a mud bath. Several buffaloes, with their dark visages, stood under +the trees on the side opposite to the pallahs. It being Sunday, all was +peace, and, from the circumstances in which our party was placed, we +could not but reflect on that second stage of our existence which we +hope will lead us into scenes of perfect beauty. If pardoned in that +free way the Bible promises, death will be a glorious thing; but to be +consigned to wait for the Judgment-day, with nothing else to ponder on +but sins we would rather forget, is a cheerless prospect. + +Our Bushmen wished to leave us, and, as there was no use in trying to +thwart these independent gentlemen, I paid them, and allowed them to go. +The payment, however, acted as a charm on some strangers who happened to +be present, and induced them to volunteer their aid. + +The game hereabouts is very tame. Koodoos and giraffes stood gazing +at me as a strange apparition when I went out with the Bushmen. On one +occasion a lion came at daybreak, and went round and round the oxen. I +could only get a glimpse of him occasionally from the wagon-box; but, +though barely thirty yards off, I could not get a shot. He then began to +roar at the top of his voice; but the oxen continuing to stand still, he +was so disgusted that he went off, and continued to use his voice for a +long time in the distance. I could not see that he had a mane; if he +had not, then even the maneless variety can use their tongues. We heard +others also roar; and, when they found they could not frighten the oxen, +they became equally angry. This we could observe in their tones. + +As we went north the country became very lovely; many new trees +appeared; the grass was green, and often higher than the wagons; the +vines festooned the trees, among which appeared the real banian ('Ficus +Indica'), with its drop-shoots, and the wild date and palmyra, and +several other trees which were new to me; the hollows contained large +patches of water. Next came water-courses, now resembling small rivers, +twenty yards broad and four feet deep. The further we went, the broader +and deeper these became; their bottoms contained great numbers of deep +holes, made by elephants wading in them; in these the oxen floundered +desperately, so that our wagon-pole broke, compelling us to work up to +the breast in water for three hours and a half; yet I suffered no harm. + +We at last came to the Sanshureh, which presented an impassable barrier, +so we drew up under a magnificent baobab-tree, (lat. 18d 4' 27" S., +long. 24d 6' 20" E.), and resolved to explore the river for a ford. The +great quantity of water we had passed through was part of the annual +inundation of the Chobe; and this, which appeared a large, deep river, +filled in many parts with reeds, and having hippopotami in it, is only +one of the branches by which it sends its superabundant water to the +southeast. From the hill N'gwa a ridge of higher land runs to the +northeast, and bounds its course in that direction. We, being ignorant +of this, were in the valley, and the only gap in the whole country +destitute of tsetse. In company with the Bushmen I explored all the +banks of the Sanshureh to the west till we came into tsetse on that +side. We waded a long way among the reeds in water breast deep, but +always found a broad, deep space free from vegetation and unfordable. A +peculiar kind of lichen, which grows on the surface of the soil, becomes +detached and floats on the water, giving out a very disagreeable odor, +like sulphureted hydrogen, in some of these stagnant waters. + +We made so many attempts to get over the Sanshureh, both to the west and +east of the wagon, in the hope of reaching some of the Makololo on the +Chobe, that my Bushmen friends became quite tired of the work. By means +of presents I got them to remain some days; but at last they slipped +away by night, and I was fain to take one of the strongest of my still +weak companions and cross the river in a pontoon, the gift of Captains +Codrington and Webb. We each carried some provisions and a blanket, and +penetrated about twenty miles to the westward, in the hope of striking +the Chobe. It was much nearer to us in a northerly direction, but this +we did not then know. The plain, over which we splashed the whole of +the first day, was covered with water ankle deep, and thick grass which +reached above the knees. In the evening we came to an immense wall +of reeds, six or eight feet high, without any opening admitting of a +passage. When we tried to enter, the water always became so deep that we +were fain to desist. We concluded that we had come to the banks of the +river we were in search of, so we directed our course to some trees +which appeared in the south, in order to get a bed and a view of the +adjacent locality. Having shot a leche, and made a glorious fire, we +got a good cup of tea and had a comfortable night. While collecting +wood that evening, I found a bird's nest consisting of live leaves sewn +together with threads of the spider's web. Nothing could exceed the +airiness of this pretty contrivance; the threads had been pushed through +small punctures and thickened to resemble a knot. I unfortunately +lost it. This was the second nest I had seen resembling that of the +tailor-bird of India. + +Next morning, by climbing the highest trees, we could see a fine large +sheet of water, but surrounded on all sides by the same impenetrable +belt of reeds. This is the broad part of the River Chobe, and is called +Zabesa. Two tree-covered islands seemed to be much nearer to the water +than the shore on which we were, so we made an attempt to get to them +first. It was not the reeds alone we had to pass through; a peculiar +serrated grass, which at certain angles cut the hands like a razor, was +mingled with the reed, and the climbing convolvulus, with stalks which +felt as strong as whipcord, bound the mass together. We felt like +pigmies in it, and often the only way we could get on was by both of us +leaning against a part and bending it down till we could stand upon +it. The perspiration streamed off our bodies, and as the sun rose high, +there being no ventilation among the reeds, the heat was stifling, and +the water, which was up to the knees, felt agreeably refreshing. After +some hours' toil we reached one of the islands. Here we met an old +friend, the bramble-bush. My strong moleskins were quite worn through +at the knees, and the leather trowsers of my companion were torn and his +legs bleeding. Tearing my handkerchief in two, I tied the pieces round +my knees, and then encountered another difficulty. We were still forty +or fifty yards from the clear water, but now we were opposed by great +masses of papyrus, which are like palms in miniature, eight or ten feet +high, and an inch and a half in diameter. These were laced together by +twining convolvulus, so strongly that the weight of both of us could not +make way into the clear water. At last we fortunately found a passage +prepared by a hippopotamus. Eager as soon as we reached the island to +look along the vista to clear water, I stepped in and found it took me +at once up to the neck. + +Returning nearly worn out, we proceeded up the bank of the Chobe till we +came to the point of departure of the branch Sanshureh; we then went in +the opposite direction, or down the Chobe, though from the highest trees +we could see nothing but one vast expanse of reed, with here and there +a tree on the islands. This was a hard day's work; and when we came to a +deserted Bayeiye hut on an ant-hill, not a bit of wood or any thing +else could be got for a fire except the grass and sticks of the dwelling +itself. I dreaded the "Tampans", so common in all old huts; but +outside of it we had thousands of mosquitoes, and cold dew began to be +deposited, so we were fain to crawl beneath its shelter. + +We were close to the reeds, and could listen to the strange sounds which +are often heard there. By day I had seen water-snakes putting up their +heads and swimming about. There were great numbers of otters ('Lutra +inunguis', F. Cuvier), which have made little spoors all over the plains +in search of the fishes, among the tall grass of these flooded prairies; +curious birds, too, jerked and wriggled among these reedy masses, and we +heard human-like voices and unearthly sounds, with splash, guggle, +jupp, as if rare fun were going on in their uncouth haunts. At one +time something came near us, making a splashing like that of a canoe or +hippopotamus; thinking it to be the Makololo, we got up, listened, and +shouted; then discharged a gun several times; but the noise continued +without intermission for an hour. After a damp, cold night we set to, +early in the morning, at our work of exploring again, but left the +pontoon in order to lighten our labor. The ant-hills are here very high, +some thirty feet, and of a base so broad that trees grow on them; while +the lands, annually flooded, bear nothing but grass. From one of these +ant-hills we discovered an inlet to the Chobe; and, having gone back for +the pontoon, we launched ourselves on a deep river, here from eighty to +one hundred yards wide. I gave my companion strict injunctions to stick +by the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should look at us; nor was this +caution unnecessary, for one came up at our side and made a desperate +plunge off. We had passed over him. The wave he made caused the pontoon +to glide quickly away from him. + +We paddled on from midday till sunset. There was nothing but a wall of +reed on each bank, and we saw every prospect of spending a supperless +night in our float; but just as the short twilight of these parts was +commencing, we perceived on the north bank the village of Moremi, one of +the Makololo, whose acquaintance I had made on our former visit, and +who was now located on the island Mahonta (lat. 17d 58' S., long. 24d 6' +E.). The villagers looked as we may suppose people do who see a ghost, +and in their figurative way of speaking said, "He has dropped among +us from the clouds, yet came riding on the back of a hippopotamus! We +Makololo thought no one could cross the Chobe without our knowledge, but +here he drops among us like a bird." + +Next day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands, and found that, +in our absence, the men had allowed the cattle to wander into a very +small patch of wood to the west containing the tsetse; this carelessness +cost me ten fine large oxen. After remaining a few days, some of the +head men of the Makololo came down from Linyanti, with a large party +of Barotse, to take us across the river. This they did in fine style, +swimming and diving among the oxen more like alligators than men, and +taking the wagons to pieces and carrying them across on a number of +canoes lashed together. We were now among friends; so going about thirty +miles to the north, in order to avoid the still flooded lands on the +north of the Chobe, we turned westward toward Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" +S., long. 23d 50' 9" E.), where we arrived on the 23d of May, 1853. This +is the capital town of the Makololo, and only a short distance from our +wagon-stand of 1851 (lat. 18d 20' S., long. 23d 50' E.). + + + + +Chapter 9. + +Reception at Linyanti--The court Herald--Sekeletu obtains the +Chieftainship from his Sister--Mpepe's Plot--Slave-trading Mambari +--Their sudden Flight--Sekeletu narrowly escapes Assassination-- +Execution of Mpepe--The Courts of Law--Mode of trying Offenses-- +Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to read the Bible--The Disposition +made of the Wives of a deceased Chief--Makololo Women--They work +but little--Employ Serfs--Their Drink, Dress, and Ornaments--Public +Religious Services in the Kotla--Unfavorable Associations of +the place--Native Doctors--Proposals to teach the Makololo to +read--Sekeletu's Present--Reason for accepting it--Trading in +Ivory--Accidental Fire--Presents for Sekeletu--Two Breeds of native +Cattle--Ornamenting the Cattle--The Women and the Looking-glass--Mode +of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Mantles and for Shields--Throwing +the Spear. + + + +The whole population of Linyanti, numbering between six and seven +thousand souls, turned out en masse to see the wagons in motion. They +had never witnessed the phenomenon before, we having on the former +occasion departed by night. Sekeletu, now in power, received us in what +is considered royal style, setting before us a great number of pots of +boyaloa, the beer of the country. These were brought by women, and each +bearer takes a good draught of the beer when she sets it down, by way of +"tasting", to show that there is no poison. + +The court herald, an old man who occupied the post also in Sebituane's +time, stood up, and after some antics, such as leaping, and shouting at +the top of his voice, roared out some adulatory sentences, as, "Don't I +see the white man? Don't I see the comrade of Sebituane? Don't I see the +father of Sekeletu?"--"We want sleep."--"Give your son sleep, my lord," +etc., etc. The perquisites of this man are the heads of all the cattle +slaughtered by the chief, and he even takes a share of the tribute +before it is distributed and taken out of the kotla. He is expected to +utter all the proclamations, call assemblies, keep the kotla clean, and +the fire burning every evening, and when a person is executed in public +he drags away the body. + +I found Sekeletu a young man of eighteen years of age, of that dark +yellow or coffee-and-milk color, of which the Makololo are so proud, +because it distinguishes them considerably from the black tribes on +the rivers. He is about five feet seven in height, and neither so +good looking nor of so much ability as his father was, but is equally +friendly to the English. Sebituane installed his daughter Mamochisane +into the chieftainship long before his death, but, with all his +acuteness, the idea of her having a husband who should not be her lord +did not seem to enter his mind. He wished to make her his successor, +probably in imitation of some of the negro tribes with whom he had come +into contact; but, being of the Bechuana race, he could not look upon +the husband except as the woman's lord; so he told her all the men +were hers--she might take any one, but ought to keep none. In fact, he +thought she might do with the men what he could do with the women; but +these men had other wives; and, according to a saying in the country, +"the tongues of women can not be governed," they made her miserable by +their remarks. One man whom she chose was even called her wife, and +her son the child of Mamochisane's wife; but the arrangement was so +distasteful to Mamochisane herself that, as soon as Sebituane died, she +said she never would consent to govern the Makololo so long as she had a +brother living. Sekeletu, being afraid of another member of the family, +Mpepe, who had pretensions to the chieftainship, urged his sister +strongly to remain as she had always been, and allow him to support her +authority by leading the Makololo when they went forth to war. Three +days were spent in public discussion on the point. Mpepe insinuated that +Sekeletu was not the lawful son of Sebituane, on account of his +mother having been the wife of another chief before her marriage with +Sebituane; Mamochisane, however, upheld Sekeletu's claims, and at last +stood up in the assembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears: +"I have been a chief only because my father wished it. I always would +have preferred to be married and have a family like other women. You, +Sekeletu, must be chief, and build up your father's house." This was a +death-blow to the hopes of Mpepe. + +As it will enable the reader to understand the social and political +relations of these people, I will add a few more particulars respecting +Mpepe. Sebituane, having no son to take the leadership of the "Mopato" +of the age of his daughter, chose him, as the nearest male relative, to +occupy that post; and presuming from Mpepe's connection with his family +that he would attend to his interests and relieve him from care, he +handed his cattle over to his custody. Mpepe removed to the chief +town, "Naliele", and took such effectual charge of all the cattle that +Sebituane saw he could only set matters on their former footing by the +severe measure of Mpepe's execution. Being unwilling to do this, and +fearing the enchantments which, by means of a number of Barotse doctors, +Mpepe now used in a hut built for the purpose, and longing for peaceful +retirement after thirty years' fighting, he heard with pleasure of our +arrival at the lake, and came down as far as Sesheke to meet us. He had +an idea, picked up from some of the numerous strangers who visited him, +that white men had a "pot (a cannon) in their towns which would burn up +any attacking party;" and he thought if he could only get this he would +be able to "sleep" the remainder of his days in peace. This he hoped to +obtain from the white men. Hence the cry of the herald, "Give us sleep." +It is remarkable how anxious for peace those who have been fighting all +their lives appear to be. + +When Sekeletu was installed in the chieftainship, he felt his position +rather insecure, for it was believed that the incantations of Mpepe had +an intimate connection with Sebituane's death. Indeed, the latter had +said to his son, "That hut of incantation will prove fatal to either you +or me." + +When the Mambari, in 1850, took home a favorable report of this new +market to the west, a number of half-caste Portuguese slave-traders +were induced to come in 1853; and one, who resembled closely a real +Portuguese, came to Linyanti while I was there. This man had no +merchandise, and pretended to have come in order to inquire "what sort +of goods were necessary for the market." He seemed much disconcerted by +my presence there. Sekeletu presented him with an elephant's tusk and +an ox; and when he had departed about fifty miles to the westward, +he carried off an entire village of the Bakalahari belonging to the +Makololo. He had a number of armed slaves with him; and as all the +villagers--men, women, and children--were removed, and the fact was +unknown until a considerable time afterward, it is not certain whether +his object was obtained by violence or by fair promises. In either case, +slavery must have been the portion of these poor people. He was carried +in a hammock, slung between two poles, which appearing to be a bag, the +Makololo named him "Father of the Bag". + +Mpepe favored these slave-traders, and they, as is usual with them, +founded all their hopes of influence on his successful rebellion. My +arrival on the scene was felt to be so much weight in the scale against +their interests. A large party of Mambari had come to Linyanti when I +was floundering on the prairies south of the Chobe. As the news of my +being in the neighborhood reached them their countenances fell; and when +some Makololo, who had assisted us to cross the river, returned +with hats which I had given them, the Mambari betook themselves to +precipitate flight. It is usual for visitors to ask formal permission +before attempting to leave a chief, but the sight of the hats made the +Mambari pack up at once. The Makololo inquired the cause of the hurry, +and were told that, if I found them there, I should take all their +slaves and goods from them; and, though assured by Sekeletu that I was +not a robber, but a man of peace, they fled by night, while I was still +sixty miles off. They went to the north, where, under the protection of +Mpepe, they had erected a stockade of considerable size. There, several +half-caste slave-traders, under the leadership of a native Portuguese, +carried on their traffic, without reference to the chief into whose +country they had unceremoniously introduced themselves; while Mpepe, +feeding them with the cattle of Sekeletu, formed a plan of raising +himself, by means of their fire-arms, to be the head of the Makololo. +The usual course which the slave-traders adopt is to take a part in the +political affairs of each tribe, and, siding with the strongest, +get well paid by captures made from the weaker party. Long secret +conferences were held by the slave-traders and Mpepe, and it was deemed +advisable for him to strike the first blow; so he provided himself with +a small battle-axe, with the intention of cutting Sekeletu down the +first time they met. + +My object being first of all to examine the country for a healthy +locality, before attempting to make a path to either the East or West +Coast, I proposed to Sekeletu the plan of ascending the great river +which we had discovered in 1851. He volunteered to accompany me, +and, when we got about sixty miles away, on the road to Sesheke, we +encountered Mpepe. The Makololo, though possessing abundance of cattle, +had never attempted to ride oxen until I advised it in 1851. The +Bechuanas generally were in the same condition, until Europeans +came among them and imparted the idea of riding. All their journeys +previously were performed on foot. Sekeletu and his companions were +mounted on oxen, though, having neither saddle nor bridle, they were +perpetually falling off. Mpepe, armed with his little axe, came along +a path parallel to, but a quarter of a mile distant from, that of our +party, and, when he saw Sekeletu, he ran with all his might toward us; +but Sekeletu, being on his guard, galloped off to an adjacent village. +He then withdrew somewhere till all our party came up. Mpepe had given +his own party to understand that he would cut down Sekeletu, either on +their first meeting, or at the breaking up of their first conference. +The former intention having been thus frustrated, he then determined to +effect his purpose after their first interview. I happened to sit down +between the two in the hut where they met. Being tired with riding +all day in the sun, I soon asked Sekeletu where I should sleep, and he +replied, "Come, I will show you." As we rose together, I unconsciously +covered Sekeletu's body with mine, and saved him from the blow of the +assassin. I knew nothing of the plot, but remarked that all Mpepe's +men kept hold of their arms, even after we had sat down--a thing quite +unusual in the presence of a chief; and when Sekeletu showed me the hut +in which I was to spend the night, he said to me, "That man wishes +to kill me." I afterward learned that some of Mpepe's attendants had +divulged the secret; and, bearing in mind his father's instructions, +Sekeletu put Mpepe to death that night. It was managed so quietly, that, +although I was sleeping within a few yards of the scene, I knew nothing +of it till the next day. Nokuane went to the fire, at which Mpepe sat, +with a handful of snuff, as if he were about to sit down and regale +himself therewith. Mpepe said to him, "Nsepisa" (cause me to take a +pinch); and, as he held out his hand, Nokuane caught hold of it, while +another man seized the other hand, and, leading him out a mile, speared +him. This is the common mode of executing criminals. They are not +allowed to speak; though on one occasion a man, feeling his wrist held +too tightly, said, "Hold me gently, can't you? you will soon be led out +in the same way yourselves." Mpepe's men fled to the Barotse, and, +it being unadvisable for us to go thither during the commotion which +followed on Mpepe's death, we returned to Linyanti. + +The foregoing may be considered as a characteristic specimen of their +mode of dealing with grave political offenses. In common cases there +is a greater show of deliberation. The complainant asks the man against +whom he means to lodge his complaint to come with him to the chief. This +is never refused. When both are in the kotla, the complainant stands +up and states the whole case before the chief and the people usually +assembled there. He stands a few seconds after he has done this, to +recollect if he has forgotten any thing. The witnesses to whom he has +referred then rise up and tell all they themselves have seen or heard, +but not any thing that they have heard from others. The defendant, after +allowing some minutes to elapse so that he may not interrupt any of the +opposite party, slowly rises, folds his cloak around him, and, in the +most quiet, deliberate way he can assume--yawning, blowing his nose, +etc.--begins to explain the affair, denying the charge, or admitting +it, as the case may be. Sometimes, when galled by his remarks, the +complainant utters a sentence of dissent; the accused turns quietly to +him, and says, "Be silent: I sat still while you were speaking; can't +you do the same? Do you want to have it all to yourself?" And as the +audience acquiesce in this bantering, and enforce silence, he goes on +till he has finished all he wishes to say in his defense. If he has +any witnesses to the truth of the facts of his defense, they give their +evidence. No oath is administered; but occasionally, when a statement is +questioned, a man will say, "By my father," or "By the chief, it is +so." Their truthfulness among each other is quite remarkable; but their +system of government is such that Europeans are not in a position to +realize it readily. A poor man will say, in his defense against a +rich one, "I am astonished to hear a man so great as he make a false +accusation;" as if the offense of falsehood were felt to be one against +the society which the individual referred to had the greatest interest +in upholding. + +If the case is one of no importance, the chief decides it at once; if +frivolous, he may give the complainant a scolding, and put a stop to the +case in the middle of the complaint, or he may allow it to go on without +paying any attention to it whatever. Family quarrels are often treated +in this way, and then a man may be seen stating his case with great +fluency, and not a soul listening to him. But if it is a case between +influential men, or brought on by under-chiefs, then the greatest +decorum prevails. If the chief does not see his way clearly to a +decision, he remains silent; the elders then rise one by one and give +their opinions, often in the way of advice rather than as decisions; +and when the chief finds the general sentiment agreeing in one view, he +delivers his judgment accordingly. He alone speaks sitting; all others +stand. + +No one refuses to acquiesce in the decision of the chief, as he has the +power of life and death in his hands, and can enforce the law to +that extent if he chooses; but grumbling is allowed, and, when marked +favoritism is shown to any relative of the chief, the people generally +are not so astonished at the partiality as we would be in England. + +This system was found as well developed among the Makololo as among +the Bakwains, or even better, and is no foreign importation. When at +Cassange, my men had a slight quarrel among themselves, and came to me, +as to their chief, for judgment. This had occurred several times before, +so without a thought I went out of the Portuguese merchant's house in +which I was a guest, sat down, and heard the complaint and defense in +the usual way. When I had given my decision in the common admonitory +form, they went off apparently satisfied. Several Portuguese, who had +been viewing the proceedings with great interest, complimented me on the +success of my teaching them how to act in litigation; but I could not +take any credit to myself for the system which I had found ready-made to +my hands. + +Soon after our arrival at Linyanti, Sekeletu took me aside, and pressed +me to mention those things I liked best and hoped to get from him. Any +thing, either in or out of his town, should be freely given if I would +only mention it. I explained to him that my object was to elevate him +and his people to be Christians; but he replied he did not wish to learn +to read the Book, for he was afraid "it might change his heart, and make +him content with only one wife, like Sechele." It was of little use to +urge that the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife equal +to his present complacency in polygamy. Such a preference after the +change of mind could not now be understood by him any more than the +real, unmistakable pleasure of religious services can by those who have +not experienced what is known by the term the "new heart". I assured him +that nothing was expected but by his own voluntary decision. "No, no; +he wanted always to have five wives at least." I liked the frankness of +Sekeletu, for nothing is so wearying to the spirit as talking to those +who agree with every thing advanced. + +Sekeletu, according to the system of the Bechuanas, became possessor of +his father's wives, and adopted two of them; the children by these women +are, however, in these cases, termed brothers. When an elder brother +dies, the same thing occurs in respect of his wives; the brother next in +age takes them, as among the Jews, and the children that may be born +of those women he calls brothers also. He thus raises up seed to his +departed relative. An uncle of Sekeletu, being a younger brother of +Sebituane, got that chieftain's head-wife or queen: there is always +one who enjoys this title. Her hut is called the great house, and her +children inherit the chieftainship. If she dies, a new wife is selected +for the same position, and enjoys the same privileges, though she may +happen to be a much younger woman than the rest. + +The majority of the wives of Sebituane were given to influential +under-chiefs; and, in reference to their early casting off the widow's +weeds, a song was sung, the tenor of which was that the men alone felt +the loss of their father Sebituane, the women were so soon supplied with +new husbands that their hearts had not time to become sore with grief. + +The women complain because the proportions between the sexes are so +changed now that they are not valued as they deserve. The majority of +the real Makololo have been cut off by fever. Those who remain are +a mere fragment of the people who came to the north with Sebituane. +Migrating from a very healthy climate in the south, they were more +subject to the febrile diseases of the valley in which we found them +than the black tribes they conquered. In comparison with the Barotse, +Batoka, and Banyeti, the Makololo have a sickly hue. They are of a light +brownish-yellow color, while the tribes referred to are very dark, with +a slight tinge of olive. The whole of the colored tribes consider that +beauty and fairness are associated, and women long for children of light +color so much, that they sometimes chew the bark of a certain tree in +hopes of producing that effect. To my eye the dark color is much more +agreeable than the tawny hue of the half-caste, which that of the +Makololo ladies closely resembles. The women generally escaped the +fever, but they are less fruitful than formerly, and, to their complaint +of being undervalued on account of the disproportion of the sexes, they +now add their regrets at the want of children, of whom they are all +excessively fond. + +The Makololo women work but little. Indeed, the families of that nation +are spread over the country, one or two only in each village, as +the lords of the land. They all have lordship over great numbers of +subjected tribes, who pass by the general name Makalaka, and who are +forced to render certain services, and to aid in tilling the soil; but +each has his own land under cultivation, and otherwise lives nearly +independent. They are proud to be called Makololo, but the other term +is often used in reproach, as betokening inferiority. This species of +servitude may be termed serfdom, as it has to be rendered in consequence +of subjection by force of arms, but it is necessarily very mild. It is +so easy for any one who is unkindly treated to make his escape to +other tribes, that the Makololo are compelled to treat them, to a great +extent, rather as children than slaves. Some masters, who fail from +defect of temper or disposition to secure the affections of the +conquered people, frequently find themselves left without a single +servant, in consequence of the absence and impossibility of enforcing +a fugitive-slave law, and the readiness with which those who are +themselves subjected assist the fugitives across the rivers in canoes. +The Makololo ladies are liberal in their presents of milk and other +food, and seldom require to labor, except in the way of beautifying +their own huts and court-yards. They drink large quantities of boyaloa +or o-alo, the buza of the Arabs, which, being made of the grain called +holcus sorghum or "durasaifi", in a minute state of subdivision, is +very nutritious, and gives that plumpness of form which is considered +beautiful. They dislike being seen at their potations by persons of the +opposite sex. They cut their woolly hair quite short, and delight in +having the whole person shining with butter. Their dress is a kilt +reaching to the knees; its material is ox-hide, made as soft as cloth. +It is not ungraceful. A soft skin mantle is thrown across the shoulders +when the lady is unemployed, but when engaged in any sort of labor +she throws this aside, and works in the kilt alone. The ornaments most +coveted are large brass anklets as thick as the little finger, and +armlets of both brass and ivory, the latter often an inch broad. The +rings are so heavy that the ankles are often blistered by the weight +pressing down; but it is the fashion, and is borne as magnanimously as +tight lacing and tight shoes among ourselves. Strings of beads are hung +around the neck, and the fashionable colors being light green and pink, +a trader could get almost any thing he chose for beads of these colors. + +At our public religious services in the kotla, the Makololo women always +behaved with decorum from the first, except at the conclusion of +the prayer. When all knelt down, many of those who had children, in +following the example of the rest, bent over their little ones; the +children, in terror of being crushed to death, set up a simultaneous +yell, which so tickled the whole assembly there was often a subdued +titter, to be turned into a hearty laugh as soon as they heard Amen. +This was not so difficult to overcome in them as similar peccadilloes +were in the case of the women farther south. Long after we had settled +at Mabotsa, when preaching on the most solemn subjects, a woman might be +observed to look round, and, seeing a neighbor seated on her dress, give +her a hunch with the elbow to make her move off; the other would return +it with interest, and perhaps the remark, "Take the nasty thing away, +will you?" Then three or four would begin to hustle the first offenders, +and the men to swear at them all, by way of enforcing silence. + +Great numbers of little trifling things like these occur, and would +not be worth the mention but that one can not form a correct idea of +missionary work except by examination of the minutiae. At the risk +of appearing frivolous to some, I shall continue to descend to mere +trifles. + +The numbers who attended at the summons of the herald, who acted as +beadle, were often from five to seven hundred. The service consisted of +reading a small portion of the Bible and giving an explanatory address, +usually short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention. So long +as we continue to hold services in the kotla, the associations of the +place are unfavorable to solemnity; hence it is always desirable to have +a place of worship as soon as possible; and it is of importance, too, +to treat such place with reverence, as an aid to secure that serious +attention which religious subjects demand. This will appear more evident +when it is recollected that, in the very spot where we had been engaged +in acts of devotion, half an hour after a dance would be got up; and +these habits can not be at first opposed without the appearance of +assuming too much authority over them. It is always unwise to hurt +their feelings of independence. Much greater influence will be gained by +studying how you may induce them to act aright, with the impression +that they are doing it of their own free will. Our services having +necessarily been all in the open air, where it is most difficult to +address large bodies of people, prevented my recovering so entirely from +the effects of clergyman's sore throat as I expected, when my uvula was +excised at the Cape. + +To give an idea of the routine followed for months together, on other +days as well as on Sundays, I may advert to my habit of treating the +sick for complaints which seemed to surmount the skill of their own +doctors. I refrained from going to any one unless his own doctor wished +it, or had given up the case. This led to my having a selection of +the severer cases only, and prevented the doctors being offended at my +taking their practice out of their hands. When attacked by fever myself, +and wishing to ascertain what their practices were, I could safely +intrust myself in their hands on account of their well-known friendly +feelings. + +The plan of showing kindness to the natives in their bodily ailments +secures their friendship; this is not the case to the same degree in +old missions, where the people have learned to look upon relief as a +right--a state of things which sometimes happens among ourselves at +home. Medical aid is therefore most valuable in young missions, though +at all stages it is an extremely valuable adjunct to other operations. + +I proposed to teach the Makololo to read, but, for the reasons +mentioned, Sekeletu at first declined; after some weeks, however, +Motibe, his father-in-law, and some others, determined to brave the +mysterious book. To all who have not acquired it, the knowledge of +letters is quite unfathomable; there is naught like it within the +compass of their observation; and we have no comparison with any thing +except pictures, to aid them in comprehending the idea of signs of +words. It seems to them supernatural that we see in a book things +taking place, or having occurred at a distance. No amount of explanation +conveys the idea unless they learn to read. Machinery is equally +inexplicable, and money nearly as much so until they see it in actual +use. They are familiar with barter alone; and in the centre of the +country, where gold is totally unknown, if a button and sovereign were +left to their choice, they would prefer the former on account of its +having an eye. + +In beginning to learn, Motibe seemed to himself in the position of the +doctor, who was obliged to drink his potion before the patient, to +show that it contained nothing detrimental; after he had mastered the +alphabet, and reported the thing so far safe, Sekeletu and his young +companions came forward to try for themselves. He must have resolved to +watch the effects of the book against his views on polygamy, and abstain +whenever he perceived any tendency, in reading it, toward enforcing him +to put his wives away. A number of men learned the alphabet in a short +time and were set to teach others, but before much progress could be +made I was on my way to Loanda. + +As I had declined to name any thing as a present from Sekeletu, except a +canoe to take me up the river, he brought ten fine elephants' tusks and +laid them down beside my wagon. He would take no denial, though I told +him I should prefer to see him trading with Fleming, a man of color from +the West Indies, who had come for the purpose. I had, during the eleven +years of my previous course, invariably abstained from taking presents +of ivory, from an idea that a religious instructor degraded himself by +accepting gifts from those whose spiritual welfare he professed to seek. +My precedence of all traders in the line of discovery put me often in +the way of very handsome offers, but I always advised the donors to sell +their ivory to traders, who would be sure to follow, and when at some +future time they had become rich by barter, they might remember me or my +children. When Lake Ngami was discovered I might have refused permission +to a trader who accompanied us; but when he applied for leave to form +part of our company, knowing that Mr. Oswell would no more trade than +myself, and that the people of the lake would be disappointed if they +could not dispose of their ivory, I willingly granted a sanction, +without which his people would not at that time have ventured so far. +This was surely preferring the interest of another to my own. The return +I got for this was a notice in one of the Cape papers that this "man was +the true discoverer of the lake!" + +The conclusion I had come to was, that it is quite lawful, though +perhaps not expedient, for missionaries to trade; but barter is the only +means by which a missionary in the interior can pay his way, as money +has no value. In all the journeys I had previously undertaken for wider +diffusion of the Gospel, the extra expenses were defrayed from my salary +of 100 Pounds per annum. This sum is sufficient to enable a missionary +to live in the interior of South Africa, supposing he has a garden +capable of yielding corn and vegetables; but should he not, and still +consider that six or eight months can not lawfully be spent simply +in getting goods at a lower price than they can be had from itinerant +traders, the sum mentioned is barely sufficient for the poorest fare +and plainest apparel. As we never felt ourselves justified in making +journeys to the colony for the sake of securing bargains, the most +frugal living was necessary to enable us to be a little charitable to +others; but when to this were added extra traveling expenses, the wants +of an increasing family, and liberal gifts to chiefs, it was difficult +to make both ends meet. The pleasure of missionary labor would be +enhanced if one could devote his life to the heathen, without drawing +a salary from a society at all. The luxury of doing good from one's own +private resources, without appearing to either natives or Europeans +to be making a gain of it, is far preferable, and an object worthy +the ambition of the rich. But few men of fortune, however, now devote +themselves to Christian missions, as of old. Presents were always given +to the chiefs whom we visited, and nothing accepted in return; but when +Sebituane (in 1851) offered some ivory, I took it, and was able by its +sale to present his son with a number of really useful articles of a +higher value than I had ever been able to give before to any chief. In +doing this, of course, I appeared to trade, but, feeling I had a right +to do so, I felt perfectly easy in my mind; and, as I still held the +view of the inexpediency of combining the two professions, I was glad of +the proposal of one of the most honorable merchants of Cape Town, Mr. H. +E. Rutherford, that he should risk a sum of money in Fleming's hands for +the purpose of attempting to develop a trade with the Makololo. It was +to this man I suggested Sekeletu should sell the tusks which he had +presented for my acceptance, but the chief refused to take them back +from me. The goods which Fleming had brought were ill adapted for the +use of the natives, but he got a pretty good load of ivory in exchange; +and though it was his first attempt at trading, and the distance +traveled over made the expenses enormous, he was not a loser by the +trip. Other traders followed, who demanded 90 lbs. of ivory for a +musket. The Makololo, knowing nothing of steelyards, but supposing that +they were meant to cheat them, declined to trade except by exchanging +one bull and one cow elephant's tusk for each gun. This would average +70 lbs. of ivory, which sells at the Cape for 5s. per pound, for a +second-hand musket worth 10s. I, being sixty miles distant, did not +witness this attempt at barter, but, anxious to enable my countrymen to +drive a brisk trade, told the Makololo to sell my ten tusks on their own +account for whatever they would bring. Seventy tusks were for sale, +but, the parties not understanding each other's talk, no trade was +established; and when I passed the spot some time afterward, I found +that the whole of that ivory had been destroyed by an accidental fire, +which broke out in the village when all the people were absent. Success +in trade is as much dependent on knowledge of the language as success in +traveling. + +I had brought with me as presents an improved breed of goats, fowls, and +a pair of cats. A superior bull was bought, also as a gift to Sekeletu, +but I was compelled to leave it on account of its having become +foot-sore. As the Makololo are very fond of improving the breed of their +domestic animals, they were much pleased with my selection. I endeavored +to bring the bull, in performance of a promise made to Sebituane before +he died. Admiring a calf which we had with us, he proposed to give me a +cow for it, which in the native estimation was offering three times its +value. I presented it to him at once, and promised to bring him another +and a better one. Sekeletu was much gratified by my attempt to keep my +word given to his father. + +They have two breeds of cattle among them. One, called the Batoka, +because captured from that tribe, is of diminutive size, but very +beautiful, and closely resembles the short-horns of our own country. +The little pair presented by the King of Portugal to H.R.H. the prince +consort, is of this breed. They are very tame, and remarkably playful; +they may be seen lying on their sides by the fires in the evening; and, +when the herd goes out, the herdsman often precedes them, and has only +to commence capering to set them all a gamboling. The meat is superior +to that of the large animal. The other, or Barotse ox, is much larger, +and comes from the fertile Barotse Valley. They stand high on their +legs, often nearly six feet at the withers; and they have large horns. +Those of one of a similar breed that we brought from the lake measured +from tip to tip eight and a half feet. + +The Makololo are in the habit of shaving off a little from one side of +the horns of these animals when still growing, in order to make them +curve in that direction and assume fantastic shapes. The stranger the +curvature, the more handsome the ox is considered to be, and the longer +this ornament of the cattle-pen is spared to beautify the herd. This is +a very ancient custom in Africa, for the tributary tribes of Ethiopia +are seen, on some of the most ancient Egyptian monuments, bringing +contorted-horned cattle into Egypt. + +All are remarkably fond of their cattle, and spend much time in +ornamenting and adorning them. Some are branded all over with a hot +knife, so as to cause a permanent discoloration of the hair, in lines +like the bands on the hide of a zebra. Pieces of skin two or three +inches long and broad are detached, and allowed to heal in a dependent +position around the head--a strange style of ornament; indeed, it is +difficult to conceive in what their notion of beauty consists. The +women have somewhat the same ideas with ourselves of what constitutes +comeliness. They came frequently and asked for the looking-glass; and +the remarks they made--while I was engaged in reading, and apparently +not attending to them--on first seeing themselves therein, were +amusingly ridiculous. "Is that me?" "What a big mouth I have!" "My ears +are as big as pumpkin-leaves." "I have no chin at all." Or, "I would +have been pretty, but am spoiled by these high cheek-bones." "See how +my head shoots up in the middle!" laughing vociferously all the time +at their own jokes. They readily perceive any defect in each other, and +give nicknames accordingly. One man came alone to have a quiet gaze at +his own features once, when he thought I was asleep; after twisting his +mouth about in various directions, he remarked to himself, "People say I +am ugly, and how very ugly I am indeed!" + +The Makololo use all the skins of their oxen for making either mantles +or shields. For the former, the hide is stretched out by means of pegs, +and dried. Ten or a dozen men then collect round it with small adzes, +which, when sharpened with an iron bodkin, are capable of shaving off +the substance of the skin on the fleshy side until it is quite thin; +when sufficiently thin, a quantity of brain is smeared over it, and +some thick milk. Then an instrument made of a number of iron spikes tied +round a piece of wood, so that the points only project beyond it, is +applied to it in a carding fashion, until the fibres of the bulk of it +are quite loose. Milk or butter is applied to it again, and it forms a +garment nearly as soft as cloth. + +The shields are made of hides partially dried in the sun, and then +beaten with hammers until they are stiff and dry. Two broad belts of a +differently-colored skin are sewed into them longitudinally, and sticks +inserted to make them rigid and not liable to bend easily. The shield is +a great protection in their way of fighting with spears, but they +also trust largely to their agility in springing aside from the coming +javelin. The shield assists when so many spears are thrown that it is +impossible not to receive some of them. Their spears are light javelins; +and, judging from what I have seen them do in elephant-hunting, I +believe, when they have room to make a run and discharge them with the +aid of the jerk of stopping, they can throw them between forty and fifty +yards. They give them an upward direction in the discharge, so that +they come down on the object with accelerated force. I saw a man who +in battle had received one in the shin; the excitement of the moment +prevented his feeling any pain; but, when the battle was over, the blade +was found to have split the bone, and become so impacted in the cleft +that no force could extract it. It was necessary to take an axe and +press the split bone asunder before the weapon could be taken out. + + + + +Chapter 10. + +The Fever--Its Symptoms--Remedies of the native Doctors--Hospitality +of Sekeletu and his People--One of their Reasons for Polygamy--They +cultivate largely--The Makalaka or subject Tribes--Sebituane's +Policy respecting them--Their Affection for him--Products of the +Soil--Instrument of Culture--The Tribute--Distributed by the Chief--A +warlike Demonstration--Lechulatebe's Provocations--The Makololo +determine to punish him--The Bechuanas--Meaning of the Term--Three +Divisions of the great Family of South Africans. + + + +On the 30th of May I was seized with fever for the first time. We +reached the town of Linyanti on the 23d; and as my habits were +suddenly changed from great exertion to comparative inactivity, at +the commencement of the cold season I suffered from a severe attack of +stoppage of the secretions, closely resembling a common cold. Warm baths +and drinks relieved me, and I had no idea but that I was now recovering +from the effects of a chill, got by leaving the warm wagon in the +evening in order to conduct family worship at my people's fire. But on +the 2d of June a relapse showed to the Makololo, who knew the complaint, +that my indisposition was no other than the fever, with which I have +since made a more intimate acquaintance. Cold east winds prevail at this +time; and as they come over the extensive flats inundated by the Chobe, +as well as many other districts where pools of rain-water are now drying +up, they may be supposed to be loaded with malaria and watery vapor, and +many cases of fever follow. The usual symptoms of stopped secretion +are manifested--shivering and a feeling of coldness, though the skin +is quite hot to the touch of another. The heat in the axilla, over the +heart and region of the stomach, was in my case 100 Deg.; but along the +spine and at the nape of the neck 103 Deg. The internal processes were +all, with the exception of the kidneys and liver, stopped; the latter, +in its efforts to free the blood of noxious particles, often secretes +enormous quantities of bile. There were pains along the spine, and +frontal headache. Anxious to ascertain whether the natives possessed +the knowledge of any remedy of which we were ignorant, I requested the +assistance of one of Sekeletu's doctors. He put some roots into a pot +with water, and, when it was boiling, placed it on a spot beneath a +blanket thrown around both me and it. This produced no immediate effect; +he then got a small bundle of different kinds of medicinal woods, and, +burning them in a potsherd nearly to ashes, used the smoke and hot vapor +arising from them as an auxiliary to the other in causing diaphoresis. +I fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than our own medicines +afford; but after being stewed in their vapor-baths, smoked like a red +herring over green twigs, and charmed 'secundem artem', I concluded that +I could cure the fever more quickly than they can. If we employ a wet +sheet and a mild aperient in combination with quinine, in addition to +the native remedies, they are an important aid in curing the fever, as +they seem to have the same stimulating effects on the alimentary +canal as these means have on the external surface. Purgatives, general +bleedings, or indeed any violent remedies, are injurious; and the +appearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded as an +evidence that no internal organ is in danger. There is a good deal in +not "giving in" to this disease. He who is low-spirited, and apt to +despond at every attack, will die sooner than the man who is not of such +a melancholic nature. + +The Makololo had made a garden and planted maize for me, that, as they +remarked when I was parting with them to proceed to the Cape, I might +have food to eat when I returned, as well as other people. The maize was +now pounded by the women into fine meal. This they do in large wooden +mortars, the counterpart of which may be seen depicted on the Egyptian +monuments.* Sekeletu added to this good supply of meal ten or twelve +jars of honey, each of which contained about two gallons. Liberal +supplies of ground-nuts ('Arachis hypogoea') were also furnished every +time the tributary tribes brought their dues to Linyanti, and an ox was +given for slaughter every week or two. Sekeletu also appropriated +two cows to be milked for us every morning and evening. This was in +accordance with the acknowledged rule throughout this country, that the +chief should feed all strangers who come on any special business to +him and take up their abode in his kotla. A present is usually given in +return for the hospitality, but, except in cases where their aboriginal +customs have been modified, nothing would be asked. Europeans spoil the +feeling that hospitality is the sacred duty of the chiefs by what in +other circumstances is laudable conduct. No sooner do they arrive than +they offer to purchase food, and, instead of waiting till a meal is +prepared for them in the evening, cook for themselves, and then often +decline even to partake of that which has been made ready for their use. +A present is also given, and before long the natives come to expect a +gift without having offered any equivalent. + + * Unfortunately, the illustration shown with this paragraph + cannot be shown in this ASCII file. It has the following + caption: 'Egyptian Pestle and Mortar, Sieves, Corn Vessels, + and Kilt, identical with those in use by the Makololo and + Makalaka.--From Sir G. Wilkinson's "Ancient Egyptians".'--A. + L., 1997. + +Strangers frequently have acquaintances among the under-chiefs, to whose +establishments they turn aside, and are treated on the same principle +that others are when they are the guests of the chief. So generally is +the duty admitted, that one of the most cogent arguments for polygamy is +that a respectable man with only one wife could not entertain strangers +as he ought. This reason has especial weight where the women are the +chief cultivators of the soil, and have the control over the corn, as +at Kolobeng. The poor, however, who have no friends, often suffer much +hunger, and the very kind attention Sebituane lavished on all such was +one of the reasons of his great popularity in the country. + +The Makololo cultivate a large extent of land around their villages. +Those of them who are real Basutos still retain the habits of that +tribe, and may be seen going out with their wives with their hoes in +hand--a state of things never witnessed at Kolobeng, or among any other +Bechuana or Caffre tribe. The great chief Moshesh affords an example to +his people annually by not only taking the hoe in hand, but working hard +with it on certain public occasions. His Basutos are of the same family +with the Makololo to whom I refer. The younger Makololo, who have been +accustomed from their infancy to lord it over the conquered Makalaka, +have unfortunately no desire to imitate the agricultural tastes of their +fathers, and expect their subjects to perform all the manual labor. They +are the aristocracy of the country, and once possessed almost unlimited +power over their vassals. Their privileges were, however, much abridged +by Sebituane himself. + +I have already mentioned that the tribes which Sebituane subjected in +this great country pass by the general name of Makalaka. The Makololo +were composed of a great number of other tribes, as well as of these +central negroes. The nucleus of the whole were Basuto, who came with +Sebituane from a comparatively cold and hilly region in the south. When +he conquered various tribes of the Bechuanas, as Bakwains, Bangwaketze, +Bamangwato, Batauana, etc., he incorporated the young of these tribes +into his own. Great mortality by fever having taken place in the +original stock, he wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a +large scale with the Makalaka. So we found him with even the sons of the +chiefs of the Barotse closely attached to his person; and they say to +this day, if any thing else but natural death had assailed their father, +every one of them would have laid down his life in his defense. One +reason for their strong affection was their emancipation by the decree +of Sebituane, "all are children of the chief." + +The Makalaka cultivate the 'Holcus sorghum', or dura, as the principal +grain, with maize, two kinds of beans, ground-nuts ('Arachis hypogoea'), +pumpkins, watermelons, and cucumbers. They depend for success entirely +upon rain. Those who live in the Barotse valley cultivate in addition +the sugar-cane, sweet potato, and manioc ('Jatropha manihot'). The +climate there, however, is warmer than at Linyanti, and the Makalaka +increase the fertility of their gardens by rude attempts at artificial +irrigation. + +The instrument of culture over all this region is a hoe, the iron of +which the Batoka and Banyeti obtain from the ore by smelting. The amount +of iron which they produce annually may be understood when it is known +that most of the hoes in use at Linyanti are the tribute imposed on the +smiths of those subject tribes. + +Sekeletu receives tribute from a great number of tribes in corn or +dura, ground-nuts, hoes, spears, honey, canoes, paddles, wooden vessels, +tobacco, mutokuane ('Cannabis sativa'), various wild fruits (dried), +prepared skins, and ivory. When these articles are brought into the +kotla, Sekeletu has the honor of dividing them among the loungers who +usually congregate there. A small portion only is reserved for himself. +The ivory belongs nominally to him too, but this is simply a way of +making a fair distribution of the profits. The chief sells it only with +the approbation of his counselors, and the proceeds are distributed in +open day among the people as before. He has the choice of every thing; +but if he is not more liberal to others than to himself, he loses in +popularity. I have known instances in this and other tribes in which +individuals aggrieved, because they had been overlooked, fled to +other chiefs. One discontented person, having fled to Lechulatebe, was +encouraged to go to a village of the Bapalleng, on the River Cho or Tso, +and abstracted the tribute of ivory thence which ought to have come to +Sekeletu. This theft enraged the whole of the Makololo, because they all +felt it to be a personal loss. Some of Lechulatebe's people having come +on a visit to Linyanti, a demonstration was made, in which about five +hundred Makololo, armed, went through a mimic fight; the principal +warriors pointed their spears toward the lake where Lechulatebe lives, +and every thrust in that direction was answered by all with the shout, +"Ho-o!" while every stab on the ground drew out a simultaneous "Huzz!" +On these occasions all capable of bearing arms, even the old, must turn +out at the call. In the time of Sebituane, any one remaining in his +house was searched for and killed without mercy. + +This offense of Lechulatebe was aggravated by repetition, and by a song +sung in his town accompanying the dances, which manifested joy at the +death of Sebituane. He had enjoined his people to live in peace with +those at the lake, and Sekeletu felt disposed to follow his advice; but +Lechulatebe had now got possession of fire-arms, and considered himself +more than a match for the Makololo. His father had been dispossessed of +many cattle by Sebituane, and, as forgiveness is not considered among +the virtues by the heathen, Lechulatebe thought he had a right to +recover what he could. As I had a good deal of influence with the +Makololo, I persuaded them that, before they could have peace, they must +resolve to give the same blessing to others, and they never could do +that without forgiving and forgetting ancient feuds. It is hard to make +them feel that shedding of human blood is a great crime; they must be +conscious that it is wrong, but, having been accustomed to bloodshed +from infancy, they are remarkably callous to the enormity of the crime +of destroying human life. + +I sent a message at the same time to Lechulatebe advising him to give +up the course he had adopted, and especially the song; because, though +Sebituane was dead, the arms with which he had fought were still alive +and strong. + +Sekeletu, in order to follow up his father's instructions and promote +peace, sent ten cows to Lechulatebe to be exchanged for sheep; these +animals thrive well in a bushy country like that around the lake, but +will scarcely live in the flat prairies between the net-work of waters +north of the Chobe. The men who took the cows carried a number of hoes +to purchase goats besides. Lechulatebe took the cows and sent back an +equal number of sheep. Now, according to the relative value of sheep and +cows in these parts, he ought to have sent sixty or seventy. + +One of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in a village without +formal leave from Lechulatebe; this chief punished him by making him sit +some hours on the broiling hot sand (at least 130 Deg.). This farther +offense put a stop to amicable relations between the two tribes +altogether. It was a case in which a very small tribe, commanded by +a weak and foolish chief, had got possession of fire-arms, and felt +conscious of ability to cope with a numerous and warlike race. Such +cases are the only ones in which the possession of fire-arms does evil. +The universal effect of the diffusion of the more potent instruments of +warfare in Africa is the same as among ourselves. Fire-arms render wars +less frequent and less bloody. It is indeed exceedingly rare to hear of +two tribes having guns going to war with each other; and, as nearly all +the feuds, in the south at least, have been about cattle, the risk which +must be incurred from long shots generally proves a preventive to the +foray. + +The Makololo were prevailed upon to keep the peace during my residence +with them, but it was easy to perceive that public opinion was against +sparing a tribe of Bechuanas for whom the Makololo entertained the most +sovereign contempt. The young men would remark, "Lechulatebe is herding +our cows for us; let us only go, we shall 'lift' the price of them in +sheep," etc. + +As the Makololo are the most northerly of the Bechuanas, we may glance +back at this family of Africans before entering on the branch of the +negro family which the Makololo distinguish by the term Makalaka. The +name Bechuana seems derived from the word Chuana--alike, or equal--with +the personal pronoun Ba (they) prefixed, and therefore means fellows +or equals. Some have supposed the name to have arisen from a mistake of +some traveler, who, on asking individuals of this nation concerning the +tribes living beyond them, received the answer, Bachuana, "they (are) +alike"; meaning, "They are the same as we are"; and that this nameless +traveler, who never wrote a word about them, managed to ingraft his +mistake as a generic term on a nation extending from the Orange River to +18 Deg. south latitude.* + + * The Makololo have conquered the country as far as 14 Deg. + south, but it is still peopled chiefly by the black tribes + named Makalaka. + +As the name was found in use among those who had no intercourse with +Europeans, before we can receive the above explanation we must believe +that the unknown traveler knew the language sufficiently well to ask a +question, but not to understand the answer. We may add, that the way in +which they still continue to use the word seems to require no fanciful +interpretation. When addressed with any degree of scorn, they reply, "We +are Bachuana, or equals--we are not inferior to any of our nation," +in exactly the same sense as Irishmen or Scotchmen, in the same +circumstances, would reply, "We are Britons," or "We are Englishmen." +Most other tribes are known by the terms applied to them by strangers +only, as the Caffres, Hottentots, and Bushmen. The Bechuanas alone use +the term to themselves as a generic one for the whole nation. They have +managed, also, to give a comprehensive name to the whites, viz., Makoa, +though they can not explain the derivation of it any more than of their +own. It seems to mean "handsome", from the manner in which they use +it to indicate beauty; but there is a word so very like it meaning +"infirm", or "weak", that Burchell's conjecture is probably the right +one. "The different Hottentot tribes were known by names terminating in +'kua', which means 'man', and the Bechuanas simply added the prefix +Ma, denoting a nation." They themselves were first known as Briquas, or +"goat-men". The language of the Bechuanas is termed Sichuana; that of +the whites (or Makoa) is called Sekoa. + +The Makololo, or Basuto, have carried their powers of generalization +still farther, and arranged the other parts of the same great family +of South Africans into three divisions: 1st. The Matebele, or +Makonkobi--the Caffre family living on the eastern side of the country; +2d. The Bakoni, or Basuto; and, 3d. The Bakalahari, or Bechuanas, living +in the central parts, which includes all those tribes living in or +adjacent to the great Kalahari Desert. + +1st. The Caffres are divided by themselves into various subdivisions, as +Amakosa, Amapanda, and other well-known titles. They consider the name +Caffre as an insulting epithet. + +The Zulus of Natal belong to the same family, and they are as famed +for their honesty as their brethren who live adjacent to our colonial +frontier are renowned for cattle-lifting. The Recorder of Natal declared +of them that history does not present another instance in which so +much security for life and property has been enjoyed, as has been +experienced, during the whole period of English occupation, by ten +thousand colonists, in the midst of one hundred thousand Zulus. + +The Matebele of Mosilikatse, living a short distance south of the +Zambesi, and other tribes living a little south of Tete and Senna, +are members of this same family. They are not known beyond the Zambesi +River. This was the limit of the Bechuana progress north too, until +Sebituane pushed his conquests farther. + +2d. The Bakoni and Basuto division contains, in the south, all those +tribes which acknowledge Moshesh as their paramount chief. Among them +we find the Batau, the Baputi, Makolokue, etc., and some mountaineers on +the range Maluti, who are believed, by those who have carefully sifted +the evidence, to have been at one time guilty of cannibalism. This +has been doubted, but their songs admit the fact to this day, and they +ascribe their having left off the odious practice of entrapping human +prey to Moshesh having given them cattle. They are called Marimo and +Mayabathu, men-eaters, by the rest of the Basuto, who have various +subdivisions, as Makatla, Bamakakana, Matlapatlapa, etc. + +The Bakoni farther north than the Basuto are the Batlou, Baperi, Bapo, +and another tribe of Bakuena, Bamosetla, Bamapela or Balaka, Babiriri, +Bapiri, Bahukeng, Batlokua, Baakhahela, etc., etc.; the whole of which +tribes are favored with abundance of rain, and, being much attached +to agriculture, raise very large quantities of grain. It is on their +industry that the more distant Boers revel in slothful abundance, and +follow their slave-hunting and cattle-stealing propensities quite beyond +the range of English influence and law. The Basuto under Moshesh are +equally fond of cultivating the soil. The chief labor of hoeing, driving +away birds, reaping, and winnowing, falls to the willing arms of the +hard-working women; but as the men, as well as their wives, as already +stated, always work, many have followed the advice of the missionaries, +and now use plows and oxen instead of the hoe. + +3d. The Bakalahari, or western branch of the Bechuana family, consists +of Barolong, Bahurutse, Bakuena, Bangwaketse, Bakaa, Bamangwato, +Bakurutse, Batauana, Bamatlaro, and Batlapi. Among the last the success +of missionaries has been greatest. They were an insignificant and filthy +people when first discovered; but, being nearest to the colony, they +have had opportunities of trading; and the long-continued peace they +have enjoyed, through the influence of religious teaching, has enabled +them to amass great numbers of cattle. The young, however, who do +not realize their former degradation, often consider their present +superiority over the less-favored tribes in the interior to be entirely +owing to their own greater wisdom and more intellectual development. + + + + +Chapter 11. + +Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke--Level Country--Ant-hills--Wild +Date-trees--Appearance of our Attendants on the March--The Chief's +Guard--They attempt to ride on Ox-back--Vast Herds of the +new Antelopes, Leches, and Nakongs--The native way of hunting +them--Reception at the Villages--Presents of Beer and Milk--Eating with +the Hand--The Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter--Social Mode +of Eating--The Sugar-cane--Sekeletu's novel Test of Character-- +Cleanliness of Makololo Huts--Their Construction and Appearance--The +Beds--Cross the Leeambye--Aspect of this part of the Country--The small +Antelope Tianyane unknown in the South--Hunting on foot--An Eland. + + + +Having waited a month at Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" S., long. 23d 50' +9" E.), we again departed, for the purpose of ascending the river from +Sesheke (lat. 17d 31' 38" S., long. 25d 13' E.). To the Barotse country, +the capital of which is Nariele or Naliele (lat. 15d 24' 17" S., long. +23d 5' 54" E.), I went in company with Sekeletu and about one hundred +and sixty attendants. We had most of the young men with us, and many of +the under-chiefs besides. The country between Linyanti and Sesheke +is perfectly flat, except patches elevated only a few feet above +the surrounding level. There are also many mounds where the gigantic +ant-hills of the country have been situated or still appear: these +mounds are evidently the work of the termites. No one who has not +seen their gigantic structures can fancy the industry of these little +laborers; they seem to impart fertility to the soil which has once +passed through their mouths, for the Makololo find the sides of +ant-hills the choice spots for rearing early maize, tobacco, or any +thing on which they wish to bestow especial care. In the parts through +which we passed the mounds are generally covered with masses of wild +date-trees; the fruit is small, and no tree is allowed to stand long, +for, having abundance of food, the Makololo have no inclination to +preserve wild fruit-trees; accordingly, when a date shoots up to seed, +as soon as the fruit is ripe they cut down the tree rather than be at +the trouble of climbing it. The other parts of the more elevated land +have the camel-thorn ('Acacia giraffae'), white-thorned mimosa ('Acacia +horrida'), and baobabs. In sandy spots there are palmyras somewhat +similar to the Indian, but with a smaller seed. The soil on all the flat +parts is a rich, dark, tenacious loam, known as the "cotton-ground" in +India; it is covered with a dense matting of coarse grass, common on +all damp spots in this country. We had the Chobe on our right, with its +scores of miles of reed occupying the horizon there. It was pleasant to +look back on the long-extended line of our attendants, as it twisted and +bent according to the curves of the footpath, or in and out behind the +mounds, the ostrich feathers of the men waving in the wind. Some had the +white ends of ox-tails on their heads, Hussar fashion, and others great +bunches of black ostrich feathers, or caps made of lions' manes. Some +wore red tunics, or various-colored prints which the chief had bought +from Fleming; the common men carried burdens; the gentlemen walked with +a small club of rhinoceros-horn in their hands, and had servants to +carry their shields; while the "Machaka", battle-axe men, carried their +own, and were liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an +errand, and expected to run all the way. + +Sekeletu is always accompanied by his own Mopato, a number of young men +of his own age. When he sits down they crowd around him; those who +are nearest eat out of the same dish, for the Makololo chiefs pride +themselves on eating with their people. He eats a little, then beckons +his neighbors to partake. When they have done so, he perhaps beckons +to some one at a distance to take a share; that person starts forward, +seizes the pot, and removes it to his own companions. The comrades of +Sekeletu, wishing to imitate him in riding on my old horse, leaped +on the backs of a number of half-broken Batoka oxen as they ran, but, +having neither saddle nor bridle, the number of tumbles they met with +was a source of much amusement to the rest. Troops of leches, or, as +they are here called, "lechwes", appeared feeding quite heedlessly +all over the flats; they exist here in prodigious herds, although the +numbers of them and of the "nakong" that are killed annually must be +enormous. Both are water antelopes, and, when the lands we now tread +upon are flooded, they betake themselves to the mounds I have alluded +to. The Makalaka, who are most expert in the management of their small, +thin, light canoes, come gently toward them; the men stand upright in +the canoe, though it is not more than fifteen or eighteen inches wide +and about fifteen feet long; their paddles, ten feet in height, are of +a kind of wood called molompi, very light, yet as elastic as ash. With +these they either punt or paddle, according to the shallowness or depth +of the water. When they perceive the antelopes beginning to move they +increase their speed, and pursue them with great velocity. They make the +water dash away from the gunwale, and, though the leche goes off by a +succession of prodigious bounds, its feet appearing to touch the bottom +at each spring, they manage to spear great numbers of them. + +The nakong often shares a similar fate. This is a new species, rather +smaller than the leche, and in shape has more of paunchiness than any +antelope I ever saw. Its gait closely resembles the gallop of a dog +when tired. The hair is long and rather sparse, so that it is never +sleek-looking. It is of a grayish-brown color, and has horns twisted +in the manner of a koodoo, but much smaller, and with a double ridge +winding round each of them. + +Its habitat is the marsh and the muddy bogs; the great length of its +foot between the point of the toe and supplemental hoofs enables it to +make a print about a foot in length; it feeds by night, and lies hid +among the reeds and rushes by day; when pursued, it dashes into sedgy +places containing water, and immerses the whole body, leaving only the +point of the nose and ends of the horns exposed. The hunters burn +large patches of reed in order to drive the nakong out of his lair; +occasionally the ends of the horns project above the water; but when it +sees itself surrounded by enemies in canoes, it will rather allow +its horns to be scorched in the burning reed than come forth from its +hiding-place. + +When we arrived at any village the women all turned out to lulliloo +their chief. Their shrill voices, to which they give a tremulous sound +by a quick motion of the tongue, peal forth, "Great lion!" "Great +chief!" "Sleep, my lord!" etc. The men utter similar salutations; and +Sekeletu receives all with becoming indifference. After a few minutes' +conversation and telling the news, the head man of the village, who is +almost always a Makololo, rises, and brings forth a number of large pots +of beer. Calabashes, being used as drinking-cups, are handed round, and +as many as can partake of the beverage do so, grasping the vessels so +eagerly that they are in danger of being broken. + +They bring forth also large pots and bowls of thick milk; some contain +six or eight gallons; and each of these, as well as of the beer, is +given to a particular person, who has the power to divide it with +whom he pleases. The head man of any section of the tribe is generally +selected for this office. Spoons not being generally in fashion, the +milk is conveyed to the mouth with the hand. I often presented my +friends with iron spoons, and it was curious to observe how their habit +of hand-eating prevailed, though they were delighted with the spoons. +They lifted out a little with the utensil, then put it on the left hand, +and ate it out of that. + +As the Makololo have great abundance of cattle, and the chief is +expected to feed all who accompany him, he either selects an ox or +two of his own from the numerous cattle stations that he possesses at +different spots all over the country, or is presented by the head men of +the villages he visits with as many as he needs by way of tribute. The +animals are killed by a thrust from a small javelin in the region of +the heart, the wound being purposely small in order to avoid any loss +of blood, which, with the internal parts, are the perquisites of the +men who perform the work of the butcher; hence all are eager to render +service in that line. Each tribe has its own way of cutting up and +distributing an animal. Among the Makololo the hump and ribs belong to +the chief; among the Bakwains the breast is his perquisite. After the +oxen are cut up, the different joints are placed before Sekeletu, and he +apportions them among the gentlemen of the party. The whole is rapidly +divided by their attendants, cut into long strips, and so many of these +are thrown into the fires at once that they are nearly put out. Half +broiled and burning hot, the meat is quickly handed round; every one +gets a mouthful, but no one except the chief has time to masticate. It +is not the enjoyment of eating they aim at, but to get as much of the +food into the stomach as possible during the short time the others are +cramming as well as themselves, for no one can eat more than a mouthful +after the others have finished. They are eminently gregarious in their +eating; and, as they despise any one who eats alone, I always poured out +two cups of coffee at my own meals, so that the chief, or some one of +the principal men, might partake along with me. They all soon become +very fond of coffee; and, indeed, some of the tribes attribute greater +fecundity to the daily use of this beverage. They were all well +acquainted with the sugar-cane, as they cultivate it in the Barotse +country, but knew nothing of the method of extracting the sugar from it. +They use the cane only for chewing. Sekeletu, relishing the sweet coffee +and biscuits, of which I then had a store, said "he knew my heart loved +him by finding his own heart warming to my food." He had been visited +during my absence at the Cape by some traders and Griquas, and "their +coffee did not taste half so nice as mine, because they loved his ivory +and not himself." This was certainly an original mode of discerning +character. + +Sekeletu and I had each a little gipsy-tent in which to sleep. The +Makololo huts are generally clean, while those of the Makalaka are +infested with vermin. The cleanliness of the former is owing to the +habit of frequently smearing the floors with a plaster composed of +cowdung and earth. If we slept in the tent in some villages, the mice +ran over our faces and disturbed our sleep, or hungry prowling dogs +would eat our shoes and leave only the soles. When they were guilty of +this and other misdemeanors, we got the loan of a hut. The best sort +of Makololo huts consist of three circular walls, with small holes as +doors, each similar to that in a dog-house; and it is necessary to bend +down the body to get in, even when on all-fours. The roof is formed of +reeds or straight sticks, in shape like a Chinaman's hat, bound firmly +together with circular bands, which are lashed with the strong inner +bark of the mimosa-tree. When all prepared except the thatch, it is +lifted on to the circular wall, the rim resting on a circle of poles, +between each of which the third wall is built. The roof is thatched with +fine grass, and sewed with the same material as the lashings; and, as +it projects far beyond the walls, and reaches within four feet of the +ground, the shade is the best to be found in the country. These huts are +very cool in the hottest day, but are close and deficient in ventilation +by night. + +The bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with twine; the hip-bone +soon becomes sore on the hard flat surface, as we are not allowed to +make a hole in the floor to receive the prominent part called trochanter +by anatomists, as we do when sleeping on grass or sand. + +Our course at this time led us to a part above Sesheke, called +Katonga, where there is a village belonging to a Bashubia man named +Sekhosi--latitude 17d 29' 13", longitude 24d 33'. The river here is +somewhat broader than at Sesheke, and certainly not less than six +hundred yards. It flows somewhat slowly in the first part of its eastern +course. When the canoes came from Sekhosi to take us over, one of the +comrades of Sebituane rose, and, looking to Sekeletu, called out, "The +elders of a host always take the lead in an attack." This was understood +at once; and Sekeletu, with all the young men, were obliged to give the +elders the precedence, and remain on the southern bank and see that all +went orderly into the canoes. It took a considerable time to ferry over +the whole of our large party, as, even with quick paddling, from six to +eight minutes were spent in the mere passage from bank to bank. + +Several days were spent in collecting canoes from different villages on +the river, which we now learned is called by the whole of the Barotse +the Liambai or Leeambye. This we could not ascertain on our first visit, +and, consequently, called the river after the town "Sesheke". This term +Sesheke means "white sand-banks", many of which exist at this part. +There is another village in the valley of the Barotse likewise called +Sesheke, and for the same reason; but the term Leeambye means "the +large river", or the river PAR EXCELLENCE. Luambeji, Luambesi, Ambezi, +Ojimbesi, and Zambesi, etc., are names applied to it at different +parts of its course, according to the dialect spoken, and all possess a +similar signification, and express the native idea of this magnificent +stream being the main drain of the country. + +In order to assist in the support of our large party, and at the same +time to see the adjacent country, I went several times, during our stay, +to the north of the village for game. The country is covered with clumps +of beautiful trees, among which fine open glades stretch away in every +direction; when the river is in flood these are inundated, but the +tree-covered elevated spots are much more numerous here than in the +country between the Chobe and the Leeambye. The soil is dark loam, as it +is every where on spots reached by the inundation, while among the trees +it is sandy, and not covered so densely with grass as elsewhere. A sandy +ridge covered with trees, running parallel to, and about eight miles +from the river, is the limit of the inundation on the north; there are +large tracts of this sandy forest in that direction, till you come to +other districts of alluvial soil and fewer trees. The latter soil is +always found in the vicinity of rivers which either now overflow their +banks annually, or formerly did so. The people enjoy rain in sufficient +quantity to raise very large supplies of grain and ground-nuts. + +This district contains great numbers of a small antelope named Tianyane, +unknown in the south. It stands about eighteen inches high, is very +graceful in its movements, and utters a cry of alarm not unlike that of +the domestic fowl; it is of a brownish-red color on the sides and back, +with the belly and lower part of the tail white; it is very timid, but +the maternal affection that the little thing bears to its young will +often induce it to offer battle even to a man approaching it. When the +young one is too tender to run about with the dam, she puts one foot +on the prominence about the seventh cervical vertebra, or withers; the +instinct of the young enables it to understand that it is now required +to kneel down, and to remain quite still till it hears the bleating of +its dam. If you see an otherwise gregarious she-antelope separated from +the herd, and going alone any where, you may be sure she has laid her +little one to sleep in some cozy spot. The color of the hair in the +young is better adapted for assimilating it with the ground than that of +the older animals, which do not need to be screened from the observation +of birds of prey. I observed the Arabs at Aden, when making their camels +kneel down, press the thumb on the withers in exactly the same way the +antelopes do with their young; probably they have been led to the custom +by seeing this plan adopted by the gazelle of the Desert. + +Great numbers of buffaloes, zebras, tsessebes, tahaetsi, and eland, or +pohu, grazed undisturbed on these plains, so that very little exertion +was required to secure a fair supply of meat for the party during the +necessary delay. Hunting on foot, as all those who have engaged in it in +this country will at once admit, is very hard work indeed. The heat of +the sun by day is so great, even in winter, as it now was, that, had +there been any one on whom I could have thrown the task, he would have +been most welcome to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart. But +the Makololo shot so badly, that, in order to save my powder, I was +obliged to go myself. + +We shot a beautiful cow-eland, standing in the shade of a fine tree. It +was evident that she had lately had her calf killed by a lion, for there +were five long deep scratches on both sides of her hind-quarters, as +if she had run to the rescue of her calf, and the lion, leaving it, had +attacked herself, but was unable to pull her down. When lying on the +ground, the milk flowing from the large udder showed that she must have +been seeking the shade, from the distress its non-removal in the natural +manner caused. She was a beautiful creature, and Lebeole, a Makololo +gentleman who accompanied me, speaking in reference to its size and +beauty, said, "Jesus ought to have given us these instead of cattle." It +was a new, undescribed variety of this splendid antelope. It was marked +with narrow white bands across the body, exactly like those of the +koodoo, and had a black patch of more than a handbreadth on the outer +side of the fore-arm. + + + + +Chapter 12. + +Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye--Beautiful Islands--Winter +Landscape--Industry and Skill of the Banyeti--Rapids--Falls of +Gonye--Tradition--Annual Inundations--Fertility of the great +Barotse Valley--Execution of two Conspirators--The Slave-dealer's +Stockade--Naliele, the Capital, built on an artificial Mound--Santuru, +a great Hunter--The Barotse Method of commemorating any remarkable +Event--Better Treatment of Women--More religious Feeling--Belief in a +future State, and in the Existence of spiritual Beings--Gardens--Fish, +Fruit, and Game--Proceed to the Limits of the Barotse Country-- +Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald--The River and Vicinity-- +Hippopotamus-hunters--No healthy Location--Determine to go to Loanda-- +Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above Libonta--Interview with the Mambari-- +Two Arabs from Zanzibar--Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English +--Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu--Joy of the People at the first Visit of +their Chief--Return to Sesheke--Heathenism. + + + +Having at last procured a sufficient number of canoes, we began to +ascend the river. I had the choice of the whole fleet, and selected the +best, though not the largest; it was thirty-four feet long by twenty +inches wide. I had six paddlers, and the larger canoe of Sekeletu had +ten. They stand upright, and keep the stroke with great precision, +though they change from side to side as the course demands. The men at +the head and stern are selected from the strongest and most expert of +the whole. The canoes, being flat bottomed, can go into very shallow +water; and whenever the men can feel the bottom they use the paddles, +which are about eight feet long, as poles to punt with. Our fleet +consisted of thirty-three canoes, and about one hundred and sixty men. +It was beautiful to see them skimming along so quickly, and keeping +the time so well. On land the Makalaka fear the Makololo; on water +the Makololo fear them, and can not prevent them from racing with +each other, dashing along at the top of their speed, and placing +their masters' lives in danger. In the event of a capsize, many of the +Makololo would sink like stones. A case of this kind happened on the +first day of our voyage up. The wind, blowing generally from the east, +raises very large waves on the Leeambye. An old doctor of the Makololo +had his canoe filled by one of these waves, and, being unable to swim, +was lost. The Barotse who were in the canoe with him saved themselves +by swimming, and were afraid of being punished with death in the evening +for not saving the doctor as well. Had he been a man of more influence, +they certainly would have suffered death. + +We proceeded rapidly up the river, and I felt the pleasure of looking +on lands which had never been seen by a European before. The river is, +indeed, a magnificent one, often more than a mile broad, and adorned +with many islands of from three to five miles in length. Both islands +and banks are covered with forest, and most of the trees on the brink of +the water send down roots from their branches like the banian, or 'Ficus +Indica'. The islands at a little distance seem great rounded masses of +sylvan vegetation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The +beauty of the scenery of some of the islands is greatly increased by the +date-palm, with its gracefully curved fronds and refreshing light green +color, near the bottom of the picture, and the lofty palmyra towering +far above, and casting its feathery foliage against a cloudless sky. It +being winter, we had the strange coloring on the banks which many parts +of African landscape assume. The country adjacent to the river is rocky +and undulating, abounding in elephants and all other large game, except +leches and nakongs, which seem generally to avoid stony ground. The soil +is of a reddish color, and very fertile, as is attested by the great +quantity of grain raised annually by the Banyeti. A great many villages +of this poor and very industrious people are situated on both banks of +the river: they are expert hunters of the hippopotami and other animals, +and very proficient in the manufacture of articles of wood and iron. The +whole of this part of the country being infested with the tsetse, they +are unable to rear domestic animals. This may have led to their skill +in handicraft works. Some make large wooden vessels with very neat lids, +and wooden bowls of all sizes; and since the idea of sitting on stools +has entered the Makololo mind, they have shown great taste in the +different forms given to the legs of these pieces of furniture. + +Other Banyeti, or Manyeti, as they are called, make neat and strong +baskets of the split roots of a certain tree, while others excel in +pottery and iron. I can not find that they have ever been warlike. +Indeed, the wars in the centre of the country, where no slave-trade +existed, have seldom been about any thing else but cattle. So well known +is this, that several tribes refuse to keep cattle because they tempt +their enemies to come and steal. Nevertheless, they have no objection to +eat them when offered, and their country admits of being well stocked. +I have heard of but one war having occurred from another cause. Three +brothers, Barolongs, fought for the possession of a woman who was +considered worth a battle, and the tribe has remained permanently +divided ever since. + +From the bend up to the north, called Katima-molelo (I quenched fire), +the bed of the river is rocky, and the stream runs fast, forming a +succession of rapids and cataracts, which prevent continuous navigation +when the water is low. The rapids are not visible when the river is +full, but the cataracts of Nambwe, Bombwe, and Kale must always be +dangerous. The fall at each of these is between four and six feet. But +the falls of Gonye present a much more serious obstacle. There we were +obliged to take the canoes out of the water, and carry them more than +a mile by land. The fall is about thirty feet. The main body of water, +which comes over the ledge of rock when the river is low, is collected +into a space seventy or eighty yards wide before it takes the leap, and, +a mass of rock being thrust forward against the roaring torrent, a loud +sound is produced. Tradition reports the destruction in this place of +two hippopotamus-hunters, who, over-eager in the pursuit of a wounded +animal, were, with their intended prey, drawn down into the frightful +gulf. There is also a tradition of a man, evidently of a superior mind, +who left his own countrymen, the Barotse, and came down the river, took +advantage of the falls, and led out a portion of the water there for +irrigation. Such minds must have arisen from time to time in these +regions, as well as in our own country, but, ignorant of the use of +letters, they have left no memorial behind them. We dug out some of an +inferior kind of potato ('Sisinyane') from his garden, for when once +planted it never dies out. This root is bitter and waxy, though it +is cultivated. It was not in flower, so I can not say whether it is a +solanaceous plant or not. One never expects to find a grave nor a stone +of remembrance set up in Africa; the very rocks are illiterate, they +contain so few fossils. Those here are of reddish variegated, hardened +sandstone, with madrepore holes in it. This, and broad horizontal strata +of trap, sometimes a hundred miles in extent, and each layer having an +inch or so of black silicious matter on it, as if it had floated there +while in a state of fusion, form a great part of the bottom of the +central valley. These rocks, in the southern part of the country +especially, are often covered with twelve or fifteen feet of soft +calcareous tufa. At Bombwe we have the same trap, with radiated zeolite, +probably mesotype, and it again appears at the confluence of the Chobe, +farther down. + +As we passed up the river, the different villages of Banyeti turned out +to present Sekeletu with food and skins, as their tribute. One large +village is placed at Gonye, the inhabitants of which are required to +assist the Makololo to carry their canoes past the falls. The tsetse +here lighted on us even in the middle of the stream. This we crossed +repeatedly, in order to make short cuts at bends of the river. The +course is, however, remarkably straight among the rocks; and here the +river is shallow, on account of the great breadth of surface which it +covers. When we came to about 16d 16' S. latitude, the high wooded banks +seemed to leave the river, and no more tsetse appeared. Viewed from +the flat, reedy basin in which the river then flowed, the banks seemed +prolonged into ridges, of the same wooded character, two or three +hundred feet high, and stretched away to the N.N.E. and N.N.W. until +they were twenty or thirty miles apart. The intervening space, nearly +one hundred miles in length, with the Leeambye winding gently near the +middle, is the true Barotse valley. It bears a close resemblance to the +valley of the Nile, and is inundated annually, not by rains, but by the +Leeambye, exactly as Lower Egypt is flooded by the Nile. The villages +of the Barotse are built on mounds, some of which are said to have +been raised artificially by Santuru, a former chief of the Barotse, and +during the inundation the whole valley assumes the appearance of a large +lake, with the villages on the mounds like islands, just as occurs in +Egypt with the villages of the Egyptians. Some portion of the waters of +inundation comes from the northwest, where great floodings also occur, +but more comes from the north and northeast, descending the bed of the +Leeambye itself. There are but few trees in this valley: those which +stand on the mounds were nearly all transplanted by Santuru for shade. +The soil is extremely fertile, and the people are never in want of +grain, for, by taking advantage of the moisture of the inundation, they +can take two crops a year. The Barotse are strongly attached to this +fertile valley; they say, "Here hunger is not known." There are so many +things besides corn which a man can find in it for food, that it is no +wonder they desert from Linyanti to return to this place. + +The great valley is not put to a tithe of the use it might be. It is +covered with coarse succulent grasses, which afford ample pasturage for +large herds of cattle; these thrive wonderfully, and give milk copiously +to their owners. When the valley is flooded, the cattle are compelled to +leave it and go to the higher lands, where they fall off in condition; +their return is a time of joy. + +It is impossible to say whether this valley, which contains so much +moisture, would raise wheat as the valley of the Nile does. It is +probably too rich, and would make corn run entirely to straw, for one +species of grass was observed twelve feet high, with a stem as thick as +a man's thumb. At present the pasturage is never eaten off, though the +Makololo possess immense herds of cattle. + +There are no large towns, the mounds on which the towns and villages are +built being all small, and the people require to live apart on account +of their cattle. + +This visit was the first Sekeletu had made to these parts since he +attained the chieftainship. Those who had taken part with Mpepe were +consequently in great terror. When we came to the town of Mpepe's +father, as he and another man had counseled Mamochisane to put Sekeletu +to death and marry Mpepe, the two were led forth and tossed into the +river. Nokuane was again one of the executioners. When I remonstrated +against human blood being shed in the offhand way in which they were +proceeding, the counselors justified their acts by the evidence given by +Mamochisane, and calmly added, "You see we are still Boers; we are not +yet taught." + +Mpepe had given full permission to the Mambari slave-dealers to trade +in all the Batoka and Bashukulompo villages to the east of this. He had +given them cattle, ivory, and children, and had received in return +a large blunderbuss to be mounted as a cannon. When the slight +circumstance of my having covered the body of the chief with my own +deranged the whole conspiracy, the Mambari, in their stockade, were +placed in very awkward circumstances. It was proposed to attack them and +drive them out of the country at once; but, dreading a commencement of +hostilities, I urged the difficulties of that course, and showed that +a stockade defended by perhaps forty muskets would be a very serious +affair. "Hunger is strong enough for that," said an under-chief; "a very +great fellow is he." They thought of attacking them by starvation. As +the chief sufferers in case of such an attack would have been the poor +slaves chained in gangs, I interceded for them, and the result of an +intercession of which they were ignorant was that they were allowed to +depart in peace. + +Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, is built on a mound which was +constructed artificially by Santuru, and was his store-house for grain. +His own capital stood about five hundred yards to the south of that, in +what is now the bed of the river. All that remains of the largest mound +in the valley are a few cubic yards of earth, to erect which cost the +whole of the people of Santuru the labor of many years. The same thing +has happened to another ancient site of a town, Linangelo, also on the +left bank. It would seem, therefore, that the river in this part of the +valley must be wearing eastward. No great rise of the river is required +to submerge the whole valley; a rise of ten feet above the present +low-water mark would reach the highest point it ever attains, as seen in +the markings of the bank on which stood Santuru's ancient capital, +and two or three feet more would deluge all the villages. This never +happens, though the water sometimes comes so near the foundations of +the huts that the people can not move outside the walls of reeds which +encircle their villages. When the river is compressed among the high +rocky banks near Gonye, it rises sixty feet. + +The influence of the partial obstruction it meets with there is seen +in the more winding course of the river north of 16 Deg.; and when the +swell gets past Katima-molelo, it spreads out on the lands on both banks +toward Sesheke. + +Santuru, at whose ancient granary we are staying, was a great hunter, +and very fond of taming wild animals. His people, aware of his taste, +brought to him every young antelope they could catch, and, among other +things, two young hippopotami. These animals gamboled in the river +by day, but never failed to remember to come up to Naliele for their +suppers of milk and meal. They were the wonder of the country, till a +stranger, happening to come to visit Santuru, saw them reclining in the +sun, and speared one of them on the supposition that it was wild. The +same unlucky accident happened to one of the cats I had brought to +Sekeletu. A stranger, seeing an animal he had never viewed before, +killed it, and brought the trophy to the chief, thinking that he had +made a very remarkable discovery; we thereby lost the breed of cats, of +which, from the swarms of mice, we stood in great need. + +On making inquiries to ascertain whether Santuru, the Moloiana, had ever +been visited by white men, I could find no vestige of any such visit;* +there is no evidence of any of Santuru's people having ever seen a white +man before the arrival of Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. The people +have, it is true, no written records; but any remarkable event here is +commemorated in names, as was observed by Park to be the case in the +countries he traversed. The year of our arrival is dignified by the name +of the year when the white men came, or of Sebituane's death; but they +prefer the former, as they avoid, if possible, any direct reference to +the departed. After my wife's first visit, great numbers of children +were named Ma-Robert, or mother of Robert, her eldest child; others were +named Gun, Horse, Wagon, Monare, Jesus, etc.; but though our names, and +those of the native Portuguese who came in 1853, were adopted, there is +not a trace of any thing of the sort having happened previously among +the Barotse: the visit of a white man is such a remarkable event, that, +had any taken place during the last three hundred years, there must have +remained some tradition of it. + + * The Barotse call themselves the Baloiana or little Baloi, as + if they had been an offset from Loi, or Lui, as it is often + spelt. As Lui had been visited by Portuguese, but its position + not well ascertained, my inquiries referred to the identity of + Naliele with Lui. On asking the head man of the Mambari + party, named Porto, whether he had ever heard of Naliele being + visited previously, he replied in the negative, and stated + that he "had himself attempted to come from Bihe three times, + but had always been prevented by the tribe called Ganguellas." + He nearly succeeded in 1852, but was driven back. He now (in + 1853) attempted to go eastward from Naliele, but came back to + the Barotse on being unable to go beyond Kainko's village, + which is situated on the Bashukulompo River, and eight days + distant. The whole party was anxious to secure a reward + believed to be promised by the Portuguese government. Their + want of success confirmed my impression that I ought to go + westward. Porto kindly offered to aid me, if I would go with + him to Bihe; but when I declined, he preceded me to Loanda, + and was publishing his Journal when I arrived at that city. + Ben Habib told me that Porto had sent letters to Mozambique by + the Arab, Ben Chombo, whom I knew; and he has since asserted, + in Portugal, that he himself went to Mozambique as well as his + letters! + +But Santuru was once visited by the Mambari, and a distinct recollection +of that visit is retained. They came to purchase slaves, and both +Santuru and his head men refused them permission to buy any of the +people. The Makololo quoted this precedent when speaking of the Mambari, +and said that they, as the present masters of the country, had as good +a right to expel them as Santuru. The Mambari reside near Bihe, under +an Ambonda chief named Kangombe. They profess to use the slaves for +domestic purposes alone. + +Some of these Mambari visited us while at Naliele. They are of the +Ambonda family, which inhabits the country southeast of Angola, and +speak the Bunda dialect, which is of the same family of languages with +the Barotse, Bayeiye, etc., or those black tribes comprehended under the +general term Makalaka. They plait their hair in three-fold cords, and +lay them carefully down around the sides of the head. They are quite as +dark as the Barotse, but have among them a number of half-castes, with +their peculiar yellow sickly hue. On inquiring why they had fled on my +approach to Linyanti, they let me know that they had a vivid idea of the +customs of English cruisers on the coast. They showed also their habits +in their own country by digging up and eating, even here where +large game abounds, the mice and moles which infest the country. The +half-castes, or native Portuguese, could all read and write, and the +head of the party, if not a real Portuguese, had European hair, and, +influenced probably by the letter of recommendation which I held from +the Chevalier Duprat, his most faithful majesty's Arbitrator in the +British and Portuguese Mixed Commission at Cape Town, was evidently +anxious to show me all the kindness in his power. These persons I feel +assured were the first individuals of Portuguese blood who ever saw the +Zambesi in the centre of the country, and they had reached it two years +after our discovery in 1851. + +The town or mound of Santuru's mother was shown to me; this was the +first symptom of an altered state of feeling with regard to the female +sex that I had observed. There are few or no cases of women being +elevated to the headships of towns further south. The Barotse also +showed some relics of their chief, which evinced a greater amount of the +religious feeling than I had ever known displayed among Bechuanas. His +more recent capital, Lilonda, built, too, on an artificial mound, +is covered with different kinds of trees, transplanted when young by +himself. They form a grove on the end of the mound, in which are to be +seen various instruments of iron just in the state he left them. One +looks like the guard of a basket-hilted sword; another has an upright +stem of the metal, on which are placed branches worked at the ends into +miniature axes, hoes, and spears; on these he was accustomed to present +offerings, according as he desired favors to be conferred in undertaking +hewing, agriculture, or fighting. The people still living there, in +charge of these articles, were supported by presents from the chief; and +the Makololo sometimes follow the example. This was the nearest approach +to a priesthood I met. When I asked them to part with one of these +relics, they replied, "Oh no, he refuses." "Who refuses?" "Santuru," was +their reply, showing their belief in a future state of existence. After +explaining to them, as I always did when opportunity offered, the nature +of true worship, and praying with them in the simple form which needs no +offering from the worshiper except that of the heart, and planting some +fruit-tree seeds in the grove, we departed. + +Another incident, which occurred at the confluence of the Leeba and +Leeambye, may be mentioned here, as showing a more vivid perception of +the existence of spiritual beings, and greater proneness to worship than +among the Bechuanas. Having taken lunar observations in the morning, +I was waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for the latitude; my +chief boatman was sitting by, in order to pack up the instruments +as soon as I had finished; there was a large halo, about 20 Deg. in +diameter, round the sun; thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere, +which this indicated, might betoken rain, I asked him if his experience +did not lead him to the same view. "Oh no," replied he; "it is the +Barimo (gods or departed spirits), who have called a picho; don't you +see they have the Lord (sun) in the centre?" + +While still at Naliele I walked out to Katongo (lat. 15d 16' 33"), on +the ridge which bounds the valley of the Barotse in that direction, and +found it covered with trees. It is only the commencement of the lands +which are never inundated; their gentle rise from the dead level of the +valley much resembles the edge of the Desert in the valley of the Nile. +But here the Banyeti have fine gardens, and raise great quantities of +maize, millet, and native corn ('Holcus sorghum'), of large grain and +beautifully white. They grow, also, yams, sugar-cane, the Egyptian +arum, sweet potato ('Convolulus batata'), two kinds of manioc or cassava +('Jatropha manihot' and 'J. utilissima', a variety containing scarcely +any poison), besides pumpkins, melons, beans, and ground-nuts. These, +with plenty of fish in the river, its branches and lagoons, wild fruits +and water-fowl, always make the people refer to the Barotse as the land +of plenty. The scene from the ridge, on looking back, was beautiful. One +can not see the western side of the valley in a cloudy day, such as +that was when we visited the stockade, but we could see the great river +glancing out at different points, and fine large herds of cattle quietly +grazing on the green succulent herbage, among numbers of cattle-stations +and villages which are dotted over the landscape. Leches in hundreds +fed securely beside them, for they have learned only to keep out of +bow-shot, or two hundred yards. When guns come into a country the +animals soon learn their longer range, and begin to run at a distance of +five hundred yards. + +I imagined the slight elevation (Katongo) might be healthy, but was +informed that no part of this region is exempt from fever. When +the waters begin to retire from this valley, such masses of decayed +vegetation and mud are exposed to the torrid sun that even the natives +suffer severely from attacks of fever. The grass is so rank in its +growth that one can not see the black alluvial soil of the bottom of +this periodical lake. Even when the grass falls down in winter, or is +"laid" by its own weight, one is obliged to lift the feet so high, to +avoid being tripped up by it, as to make walking excessively fatiguing. +Young leches are hidden beneath it by their dams; and the Makololo youth +complain of being unable to run in the Barotse land on this account. +There was evidently no healthy spot in this quarter; and the current of +the river being about four and a half miles per hour (one hundred yards +in sixty seconds), I imagined we might find what we needed in the higher +lands, from which the river seemed to come. I resolved, therefore, to +go to the utmost limits of the Barotse country before coming to a final +conclusion. Katongo was the best place we had seen; but, in order to +accomplish a complete examination, I left Sekeletu at Naliele, and +ascended the river. He furnished me with men, besides my rowers, and +among the rest a herald, that I might enter his villages in what is +considered a dignified manner. This, it was supposed, would be effected +by the herald shouting out at the top of his voice, "Here comes the +lord; the great lion;" the latter phrase being "tau e tona", which, in +his imperfect way of pronunciation, became "Sau e tona", and so like +"the great sow" that I could not receive the honor with becoming +gravity, and had to entreat him, much to the annoyance of my party, to +be silent. + +In our ascent we visited a number of Makololo villages, and were always +received with a hearty welcome, as messengers to them of peace, which +they term "sleep". They behave well in public meetings, even on the +first occasion of attendance, probably from the habit of commanding the +Makalaka, crowds of whom swarm in every village, and whom the Makololo +women seem to consider as especially under their charge. + +The river presents the same appearance of low banks without trees as +we have remarked it had after we came to 16d 16', until we arrive at +Libonta (14d 59' S. lat.). Twenty miles beyond that, we find forest down +to the water's edge, and tsetse. Here I might have turned back, as no +locality can be inhabited by Europeans where that scourge exists; but +hearing that we were not far from the confluence of the River of Londa +or Lunda, named Leeba or Loiba, and the chiefs of that country being +reported to be friendly to strangers, and therefore likely to be of use +to me on my return from the west coast, I still pushed on to latitude +14d 11' 3" S. There the Leeambye assumes the name Kabompo, and seems to +be coming from the east. It is a fine large river, about three hundred +yards wide, and the Leeba two hundred and fifty. The Loeti, a branch of +which is called Langebongo, comes from W.N.W., through a level grassy +plain named Mango; it is about one hundred yards wide, and enters the +Leeambye from the west; the waters of the Loeti are of a light color, +and those of the Leeba of a dark mossy hue. After the Loeti joins +the Leeambye the different colored waters flow side by side for some +distance unmixed. + +Before reaching the Loeti we came to a number of people from the Lobale +region, hunting hippopotami. They fled precipitately as soon as they saw +the Makololo, leaving their canoes and all their utensils and clothing. +My own Makalaka, who were accustomed to plunder wherever they went, +rushed after them like furies, totally regardless of my shouting. As +this proceeding would have destroyed my character entirely at Lobale, I +took my stand on a commanding position as they returned, and forced them +to lay down all the plunder on a sand-bank, and leave it there for its +lawful owners. + +It was now quite evident that no healthy location could be obtained in +which the Makololo would be allowed to live in peace. I had thus a fair +excuse, if I had chosen to avail myself of it, of coming home and saying +that the "door was shut", because the Lord's time had not yet come. But +believing that it was my duty to devote some portion of my life to these +(to me at least) very confiding and affectionate Makololo, I resolved +to follow out the second part of my plan, though I had failed in +accomplishing the first. The Leeba seemed to come from the N. and by +W., or N.N.W.; so, having an old Portuguese map, which pointed out the +Coanza as rising from the middle of the continent in 9 Deg. S. lat., I +thought it probable that, when we had ascended the Leeba (from 14d 11') +two or three degrees, we should then be within one hundred and twenty +miles of the Coanza, and find no difficulty in following it down to the +coast near Loanda. This was the logical deduction; but, as is the +case with many a plausible theory, one of the premises was decidedly +defective. The Coanza, as we afterward found, does not come from any +where near the centre of the country. + +The numbers of large game above Libonta are prodigious, and they proved +remarkably tame. Eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before +our fire one evening, within gunshot; and herds of splendid elands stood +by day, without fear, at two hundred yards distance. They were all of +the striped variety, and with their forearm markings, large dewlaps, +and sleek skins, were a beautiful sight to see. The lions here roar much +more than in the country near the lake, Zouga, and Chobe. One evening +we had a good opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal can +make in that line. We had made our beds on a large sand-bank, and could +be easily seen from all sides. A lion on the opposite shore amused +himself for hours by roaring as loudly as he could, putting, as is usual +in such cases, his mouth near the ground, to make the sound reverberate. +The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, so we let him enjoy +himself, certain that he durst not have been guilty of the impertinence +in the Bushman country. Wherever the game abounds, these animals exist +in proportionate numbers. Here they were very frequently seen, and two +of the largest I ever saw seemed about as tall as common donkeys; but +the mane made their bodies appear rather larger. + +A party of Arabs from Zanzibar were in the country at this time. +Sekeletu had gone from Naliele to the town of his mother before we +arrived from the north, but left an ox for our use, and instructions for +us to follow him thither. We came down a branch of the Leeambye called +Marile, which departs from the main river in latitude 15d 15' 43" S., +and is a fine deep stream about sixty yards wide. It makes the whole of +the country around Naliele an island. When sleeping at a village in the +same latitude as Naliele town, two of the Arabs mentioned made their +appearance. They were quite as dark as the Makololo, but, having +their heads shaved, I could not compare their hair with that of the +inhabitants of the country. When we were about to leave they came to bid +adieu, but I asked them to stay and help us to eat our ox. As they had +scruples about eating an animal not blooded in their own way, I gained +their good-will by saying I was quite of their opinion as to getting +quit of the blood, and gave them two legs of an animal slaughtered by +themselves. They professed the greatest detestation of the Portuguese, +"because they eat pigs;" and disliked the English, "because they thrash +them for selling slaves." I was silent about pork; though, had they seen +me at a hippopotamus two days afterward, they would have set me down as +being as much a heretic as any of that nation; but I ventured to tell +them that I agreed with the English, that it was better to let the +children grow up and comfort their mothers when they became old, than to +carry them away and sell them across the sea. This they never attempt +to justify; "they want them only to cultivate the land, and take care +of them as their children." It is the same old story, justifying a +monstrous wrong on pretense of taking care of those degraded portions of +humanity which can not take care of themselves; doing evil that good may +come. + +These Arabs, or Moors, could read and write their own language readily; +and, when speaking about our Savior, I admired the boldness with which +they informed me "that Christ was a very good prophet, but Mohammed was +far greater." And with respect to their loathing of pork, it may have +some foundation in their nature; for I have known Bechuanas, who had +no prejudice against the wild animal, and ate the tame without scruple, +yet, unconscious of any cause of disgust, vomit it again. The Bechuanas +south of the lake have a prejudice against eating fish, and allege a +disgust to eating any thing like a serpent. This may arise from the +remnants of serpent-worship floating in their minds, as, in addition +to this horror of eating such animals, they sometimes render a sort +of obeisance to living serpents by clapping their hands to them, and +refusing to destroy the reptiles; but in the case of the hog they are +conscious of no superstitious feeling. + +Having parted with our Arab friends, we proceeded down the Marile till +we re-entered the Leeambye, and went to the town of Ma-Sekeletu (mother +of Sekeletu), opposite the island of Loyela. Sekeletu had always +supplied me most liberally with food, and, as soon as I arrived, +presented me with a pot of boiled meat, while his mother handed me a +large jar of butter, of which they make great quantities for the purpose +of anointing their bodies. He had himself sometimes felt the benefit of +my way of putting aside a quantity of the meat after a meal, and had +now followed my example by ordering some to be kept for me. According +to their habits, every particle of an ox is devoured at one meal; and as +the chief can not, without a deviation from their customs, eat alone, he +is often compelled to suffer severely from hunger before another meal is +ready. We henceforth always worked into each other's hands by saving a +little for each other; and when some of the sticklers for use and custom +grumbled, I advised them to eat like men, and not like vultures. + +As this was the first visit which Sekeletu had paid to this part of his +dominions, it was to many a season of great joy. The head men of each +village presented oxen, milk, and beer, more than the horde which +accompanied him could devour, though their abilities in that line are +something wonderful. The people usually show their joy and work off +their excitement in dances and songs. The dance consists of the men +standing nearly naked in a circle, with clubs or small battle-axes in +their hands, and each roaring at the loudest pitch of his voice, while +they simultaneously lift one leg, stamp heavily twice with it, then lift +the other and give one stamp with that; this is the only movement +in common. The arms and head are often thrown about also in every +direction; and all this time the roaring is kept up with the utmost +possible vigor; the continued stamping makes a cloud of dust ascend, and +they leave a deep ring in the ground where they stood. If the scene were +witnessed in a lunatic asylum it would be nothing out of the way, +and quite appropriate even, as a means of letting off the excessive +excitement of the brain; but here gray-headed men joined in the +performance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse +for making the perspiration stream off their bodies with the exertion. +Motibe asked what I thought of the Makololo dance. I replied, "It is +very hard work, and brings but small profit." "It is," replied he, "but +it is very nice, and Sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him." +He usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is over. + +The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one advances +into the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few movements, +and then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into +the spirit of the thing, I can not recommend the Makololo polka to the +dancing world, but I have the authority of no less a person than Motibe, +Sekeletu's father-in-law, for saying "it is very nice." They often asked +if white people ever danced. I thought of the disease called St. Vitus's +dance, but could not say that all our dancers were affected by it, and +gave an answer which, I ought to be ashamed to own, did not raise some +of our young countrywomen in the estimation of the Makololo. + +As Sekeletu had been waiting for me at his mother's, we left the town +as soon as I arrived, and proceeded down the river. Our speed with the +stream was very great, for in one day we went from Litofe to Gonye, +a distance of forty-four miles of latitude; and if we add to this the +windings of the river, in longitude the distance will not be much less +than sixty geographical miles. At this rate we soon reached Sesheke, and +then the town of Linyanti. + +I had been, during a nine weeks' tour, in closer contact with heathenism +than I had ever been before; and though all, including the chief, were +as kind and attentive to me as possible, and there was no want of +food (oxen being slaughtered daily, sometimes ten at a time, more than +sufficient for the wants of all), yet to endure the dancing, roaring, +and singing, the jesting, anecdotes, grumbling, quarreling, and +murdering of these children of nature, seemed more like a severe penance +than any thing I had before met with in the course of my missionary +duties. I took thence a more intense disgust at heathenism than I had +before, and formed a greatly elevated opinion of the latent effects of +missions in the south, among tribes which are reported to have been +as savage as the Makololo. The indirect benefits which, to a casual +observer, lie beneath the surface and are inappreciable, in reference +to the probable wide diffusion of Christianity at some future time, are +worth all the money and labor that have been expended to produce them. + + + + +Chapter 13. + +Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey--A Picho--Twenty-seven Men +appointed to accompany me to the West--Eagerness of the Makololo for +direct Trade with the Coast--Effects of Fever--A Makololo Question--The +lost Journal--Reflections--The Outfit for the Journey--11th +November, 1853, leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe--Dangerous +Hippopotami--Banks of Chobe--Trees--The Course of the River--The +Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye-- +Anecdote--Ascend the Leeambye--A Makalaka Mother defies the Authority of +the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke--Punishment of Thieves--Observance +of the new Moon--Public Addresses at Sesheke--Attention of the +People--Results--Proceed up the River--The Fruit which yields 'Nux +vomica'--Other Fruits--The Rapids--Birds--Fish--Hippopotami and their +Young. + + + +Linyanti, SEPTEMBER, 1853. The object proposed to the Makololo seemed so +desirable that it was resolved to proceed with it as soon as the cooling +influence of the rains should be felt in November. The longitude and +latitude of Linyanti (lat. 18d 17' 20" S., long. 23d 50' 9" E.) showed +that St. Philip de Benguela was much nearer to us than Loanda; and I +might have easily made arrangements with the Mambari to allow me to +accompany them as far as Bihe, which is on the road to that port; but it +is so undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave-traders that +I preferred to find out another line of march. + +Accordingly, men were sent at my suggestion to examine all the country +to the west, to see if any belt of country free from tsetse could be +found to afford us an outlet. The search was fruitless. The town +and district of Linyanti are surrounded by forests infested by this +poisonous insect, except at a few points, as that by which we entered +at Sanshureh and another at Sesheke. But the lands both east and west of +the Barotse valley are free from this insect plague. There, however, the +slave-trade had defiled the path, and no one ought to follow in its wake +unless well armed. The Mambari had informed me that many English lived +at Loanda, so I prepared to go thither. The prospect of meeting with +countrymen seemed to overbalance the toils of the longer march. + +A "picho" was called to deliberate on the steps proposed. In these +assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed; and on this occasion one +of the old diviners said, "Where is he taking you to? This white man is +throwing you away. Your garments already smell of blood." It is curious +to observe how much identity of character appears all over the world. +This man was a noted croaker. He always dreamed something dreadful in +every expedition, and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened +the propriety of flight. But Sebituane formerly set his visions down to +cowardice, and Sekeletu only laughed at him now. The general voice was +in my favor; so a band of twenty-seven were appointed to accompany me to +the west. These men were not hired, but sent to enable me to accomplish +an object as much desired by the chief and most of his people as by me. +They were eager to obtain free and profitable trade with white men. The +prices which the Cape merchants could give, after defraying the great +expenses of a long journey hither, being very small, made it scarce +worth while for the natives to collect produce for that market; and the +Mambari, giving only a few bits of print and baize for elephants' tusks +worth more pounds than they gave yards of cloth, had produced the belief +that trade with them was throwing ivory away. The desire of the Makololo +for direct trade with the sea-coast coincided exactly with my own +conviction that no permanent elevation of a people can be effected +without commerce. Neither could there be a permanent mission here, +unless the missionaries should descend to the level of the Makololo, for +even at Kolobeng we found that traders demanded three or four times the +price of the articles we needed, and expected us to be grateful to them +besides for letting us have them at all. + +The three men whom I had brought from Kuruman had frequent relapses of +the fever; so, finding that instead of serving me I had to wait on them, +I decided that they should return to the south with Fleming as soon +as he had finished his trading. I was then entirely dependent on my +twenty-seven men, whom I might name Zambesians, for there were two +Makololo only, while the rest consisted of Barotse, Batoka, Bashubia, +and two of the Ambonda. + +The fever had caused considerable weakness in my own frame, and a +strange giddiness when I looked up suddenly to any celestial object, for +every thing seemed to rush to the left, and if I did not catch hold of +some object, I fell heavily on the ground: something resembling a gush +of bile along the duct from the liver caused the same fit to occur at +night, whenever I turned suddenly round. + +The Makololo now put the question, "In the event of your death, will +not the white people blame us for having allowed you to go away into +an unhealthy, unknown country of enemies?" I replied that none of my +friends would blame them, because I would leave a book with Sekeletu, to +be sent to Mr. Moffat in case I did not return, which would explain to +him all that had happened until the time of my departure. The book was +a volume of my Journal; and, as I was detained longer than I expected at +Loanda, this book, with a letter, was delivered by Sekeletu to a trader, +and I have been unable to trace it. I regret this now, as it contained +valuable notes on the habits of wild animals, and the request was made +in the letter to convey the volume to my family. The prospect of passing +away from this fair and beautiful world thus came before me in a pretty +plain, matter-of-fact form, and it did seem a serious thing to leave +wife and children--to break up all connection with earth, and enter on +an untried state of existence; and I find myself in my journal pondering +over that fearful migration which lands us in eternity, wondering +whether an angel will soothe the fluttering soul, sadly flurried as it +must be on entering the spirit world, and hoping that Jesus might +speak but one word of peace, for that would establish in the bosom an +everlasting calm. But as I had always believed that, if we serve God +at all, it ought to be done in a manly way, I wrote to my brother, +commending our little girl to his care, as I was determined to "succeed +or perish" in the attempt to open up this part of Africa. The Boers, by +taking possession of all my goods, had saved me the trouble of making +a will; and, considering the light heart now left in my bosom, and some +faint efforts to perform the duty of Christian forgiveness, I felt that +it was better to be the plundered party than one of the plunderers. + +When I committed the wagon and remaining goods to the care of the +Makololo, they took all the articles except one box into their huts; +and two warriors, Ponuane and Mahale, brought forward each a fine heifer +calf. After performing a number of warlike evolutions, they asked the +chief to witness the agreement made between them, that whoever of the +two should kill a Matebele warrior first, in defense of the wagon, +should possess both the calves. + +I had three muskets for my people, a rifle and double-barreled +smooth-bore for myself; and, having seen such great abundance of game in +my visit to the Leeba, I imagined that I could easily supply the wants +of my party. Wishing also to avoid the discouragement which would +naturally be felt on meeting any obstacles if my companions were obliged +to carry heavy loads, I took only a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea +and sugar, and about twenty of coffee, which, as the Arabs find, though +used without either milk or sugar, is a most refreshing beverage after +fatigue or exposure to the sun. We carried one small tin canister, about +fifteen inches square, filled with spare shirting, trowsers, and shoes, +to be used when we reached civilized life, and others in a bag, which +were expected to wear out on the way; another of the same size for +medicines; and a third for books, my stock being a Nautical Almanac, +Thomson's Logarithm Tables, and a Bible; a fourth box contained a magic +lantern, which we found of much use. The sextant and artificial horizon, +thermometer, and compasses were carried apart. My ammunition was +distributed in portions through the whole luggage, so that, if an +accident should befall one part, we could still have others to fall back +upon. Our chief hopes for food were upon that; but in case of failure, +I took about 20 lbs. of beads, worth 40s., which still remained of the +stock I brought from Cape Town, a small gipsy tent, just sufficient to +sleep in, a sheep-skin mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed. As +I had always found that the art of successful travel consisted in taking +as few "impedimenta" as possible, and not forgetting to carry my wits +about me, the outfit was rather spare, and intended to be still more +so when we should come to leave the canoes. Some would consider it +injudicious to adopt this plan, but I had a secret conviction that if +I did not succeed, it would not be for want of the "knick-knacks" +advertised as indispensable for travelers, but from want of "pluck", +or because a large array of baggage excited the cupidity of the tribes +through whose country we wished to pass. + +The instruments I carried, though few, were the best of their kind. +A sextant, by the famed makers Troughton and Sims, of Fleet Street; +a chronometer watch, with a stop to the seconds hand--an admirable +contrivance for enabling a person to take the exact time of +observations: it was constructed by Dent, of the Strand (61), for +the Royal Geographical Society, and selected for the service by the +President, Admiral Smythe, to whose judgment and kindness I am in this +and other matters deeply indebted. It was pronounced by Mr. Maclear to +equal most chronometers in performance. For these excellent instruments +I have much pleasure in recording my obligations to my good friend +Colonel Steele, and at the same time to Mr. Maclear for much of my +ability to use them. Besides these, I had a thermometer by Dollond; a +compass from the Cape Observatory, and a small pocket one in addition; a +good small telescope with a stand capable of being screwed into a tree. + +11TH OF NOVEMBER, 1853. Left the town of Linyanti, accompanied by +Sekeletu and his principal men, to embark on the Chobe. The chief came +to the river in order to see that all was right at parting. We crossed +five branches of the Chobe before reaching the main stream: this +ramification must be the reason why it appeared so small to Mr. Oswell +and myself in 1851. When all the departing branches re-enter, it is +a large, deep river. The spot of embarkation was the identical island +where we met Sebituane, first known as the island of Maunku, one of +his wives. The chief lent me his own canoe, and, as it was broader than +usual, I could turn about in it with ease. + +The Chobe is much infested by hippopotami, and, as certain elderly +males are expelled the herd, they become soured in their temper, and so +misanthropic as to attack every canoe that passes near them. The herd +is never dangerous, except when a canoe passes into the midst of it +when all are asleep, and some of them may strike the canoe in terror. To +avoid this, it is generally recommended to travel by day near the bank, +and by night in the middle of the stream. As a rule, these animals +flee the approach of man. The "solitaires", however, frequent certain +localities well known to the inhabitants on the banks, and, like the +rogue elephants, are extremely dangerous. We came, at this time, to a +canoe which had been smashed to pieces by a blow from the hind foot of +one of them. I was informed by my men that, in the event of a similar +assault being made upon ours, the proper way was to dive to the +bottom of the river, and hold on there for a few seconds, because the +hippopotamus, after breaking a canoe, always looks for the people on +the surface, and, if he sees none, he soon moves off. I have seen +some frightful gashes made on the legs of the people who have had the +misfortune to be attacked, and were unable to dive. This animal uses his +teeth as an offensive weapon, though he is quite a herbivorous feeder. +One of these "bachelors", living near the confluence, actually came out +of his lair, and, putting his head down, ran after some of our men who +were passing with very considerable speed. + +The part of the river called Zabesa, or Zabenza, is spread out like a +little lake, surrounded on all sides by dense masses of tall reeds. The +river below that is always one hundred or one hundred and twenty yards +broad, deep, and never dries up so much as to become fordable. At +certain parts, where the partial absence of reeds affords a view of the +opposite banks, the Makololo have placed villages of observation against +their enemies the Matebele. We visited all these in succession, and +found here, as every where in the Makololo country, orders had preceded +us, "that Nake (nyake means doctor) must not be allowed to become +hungry." + +The banks of the Chobe, like those of the Zouga, are of soft calcareous +tufa, and the river has cut out for itself a deep, perpendicular-sided +bed. Where the banks are high, as at the spot where the wagons stood in +1851, they are covered with magnificent trees, the habitat of tsetse, +and the retreat of various antelopes, wild hogs, zebras, buffaloes, and +elephants. + +Among the trees may be observed some species of the 'Ficus Indica', +light-green colored acacias, the splendid motsintsela, and evergreen +cypress-shaped motsouri. The fruit of the last-named was ripe, and the +villagers presented many dishes of its beautiful pink-colored plums; +they are used chiefly to form a pleasant acid drink. The motsintsela is +a very lofty tree, yielding a wood of which good canoes are made; +the fruit is nutritious and good, but, like many wild fruits of this +country, the fleshy parts require to be enlarged by cultivation: it is +nearly all stone. + +The course of the river we found to be extremely tortuous; so much so, +indeed, as to carry us to all points of the compass every dozen miles. +Some of us walked from a bend at the village of Moremi to another nearly +due east of that point, in six hours, while the canoes, going at more +than double our speed, took twelve to accomplish the voyage between the +same two places. And though the river is from thirteen to fifteen feet +in depth at its lowest ebb, and broad enough to allow a steamer to ply +upon it, the suddenness of the bendings would prevent navigation; +but, should the country ever become civilized, the Chobe would be a +convenient natural canal. We spent forty-two and a half hours, paddling +at the rate of five miles an hour, in coming from Linyanti to the +confluence; there we found a dike of amygdaloid lying across the +Leeambye. + +This amygdaloid with analami and mesotype contains crystals, which +the water gradually dissolves, leaving the rock with a worm-eaten +appearance. It is curious to observe that the water flowing over certain +rocks, as in this instance, imbibes an appreciable, though necessarily +most minute, portion of the minerals they contain. The water of the +Chobe up to this point is of a dark mossy hue, but here it suddenly +assumes a lighter tint; and wherever this light color shows a greater +amount of mineral, there are not mosquitoes enough to cause serious +annoyance to any except persons of very irritable temperaments. + +The large island called Mparia stands at the confluence. This is +composed of trap (zeolite, probably mesotype) of a younger age than the +deep stratum of tufa in which the Chobe has formed its bed, for, at +the point where they come together, the tufa has been transformed into +saccharoid limestone. + +The actual point of confluence of these two rivers, the Chobe and the +Leeambye, is ill defined, on account of each dividing into several +branches as they inosculate; but when the whole body of water collects +into one bed, it is a goodly sight for one who has spent many years +in the thirsty south. Standing on one bank, even the keen eye of the +natives can not detect whether two large islands, a few miles east of +the junction, are main land or not. During a flight in former years, +when the present chief Sekomi was a child in his mother's arms, the +Bamangwato men were separated from their women, and inveigled on to +one of these islands by the Makalaka chief of Mparia, on pretense of +ferrying them across the Leeambye. They were left to perish after seeing +their wives taken prisoners by these cruel lords of the Leeambye, and +Sekomi owed his life to the compassion of one of the Bayeiye, who, +pitying the young chieftain, enabled his mother to make her escape by +night. + +After spending one night at the Makololo village on Mparia, we left the +Chobe, and, turning round, began to ascend the Leeambye; on the 19th of +November we again reached the town of Sesheke. It stands on the north +bank of the river, and contains a large population of Makalaka, under +Moriantsane, brother-in-law of Sebituane. There are parties of various +tribes here, assembled under their respective head men, but a few +Makololo rule over all. Their sway, though essentially despotic, is +considerably modified by certain customs and laws. One of the Makalaka +had speared an ox belonging to one of the Makololo, and, being unable to +extract the spear, was thereby discovered to be the perpetrator of the +deed. His object had been to get a share of the meat, as Moriantsane is +known to be liberal with any food that comes into his hands. The culprit +was bound hand and foot, and placed in the sun to force him to pay a +fine, but he continued to deny his guilt. His mother, believing in +the innocence of her son, now came forward, with her hoe in hand, and, +threatening to cut down any one who should dare to interfere, untied the +cords with which he had been bound and took him home. This open defiance +of authority was not resented by Moriantsane, but referred to Sekeletu +at Linyanti. + +The following circumstance, which happened here when I was present +with Sekeletu, shows that the simple mode of punishment, by forcing a +criminal to work out a fine, did not strike the Makololo mind until now. + +A stranger having visited Sesheke for the purpose of barter, was robbed +by one of the Makalaka of most of his goods. The thief, when caught, +confessed the theft, and that he had given the articles to a person who +had removed to a distance. The Makololo were much enraged at the idea of +their good name being compromised by this treatment of a stranger. Their +customary mode of punishing a crime which causes much indignation is to +throw the criminal into the river; but, as this would not restore +the lost property, they were sorely puzzled how to act. The case was +referred to me, and I solved the difficulty by paying for the loss +myself, and sentencing the thief to work out an equivalent with his hoe +in a garden. This system was immediately introduced, and thieves are +now sentenced to raise an amount of corn proportioned to their offenses. +Among the Bakwains, a woman who had stolen from the garden of another +was obliged to part with her own entirely: it became the property of her +whose field was injured by the crime. + +There is no stated day of rest in any part of this country, except the +day after the appearance of the new moon, and the people then refrain +only from going to their gardens. A curious custom, not to be found +among the Bechuanas, prevails among the black tribes beyond them. They +watch most eagerly for the first glimpse of the new moon, and, when they +perceive the faint outline after the sun has set deep in the west, they +utter a loud shout of "Kua!" and vociferate prayers to it. My men, for +instance, called out, "Let our journey with the white man be prosperous! +Let our enemies perish, and the children of Nake become rich! May he +have plenty of meat on this journey!" etc., etc. + +I gave many public addresses to the people of Sesheke under the +outspreading camel-thorn-tree, which serves as a shade to the kotla on +the high bank of the river. It was pleasant to see the long lines of +men, women, and children winding along from different quarters of the +town, each party following behind their respective head men. They often +amounted to between five and six hundred souls, and required an exertion +of voice which brought back the complaint for which I had got the uvula +excised at the Cape. They were always very attentive; and Moriantsane, +in order, as he thought, to please me, on one occasion rose up in the +middle of the discourse, and hurled his staff at the heads of some young +fellows whom he saw working with a skin instead of listening. My hearers +sometimes put very sensible questions on the subjects brought before +them; at other times they introduced the most frivolous nonsense +immediately after hearing the most solemn truths. Some begin to pray to +Jesus in secret as soon as they hear of the white man's God, with but +little idea of what they are about; and no doubt are heard by Him who, +like a father, pitieth his children. Others, waking by night, recollect +what has been said about the future world so clearly that they tell +next day what a fright they got by it, and resolve not to listen to the +teaching again; and not a few keep to the determination not to believe, +as certain villagers in the south, who put all their cocks to death +because they crowed the words, "Tlang lo rapeleng"--"Come along to +prayers". + +On recovering partially from a severe attack of fever which remained +upon me ever since our passing the village of Moremi on the Chobe, we +made ready for our departure up the river by sending messages before +us to the villages to prepare food. We took four elephants' tusks, +belonging to Sekeletu, with us, as a means of testing the difference of +prices between the Portuguese, whom we expected to reach, and the white +traders from the south. Moriantsane supplied us well with honey, milk, +and meal. The rains were just commencing in this district; but, though +showers sufficient to lay the dust had fallen, they had no influence +whatever on the amount of water in the river, yet never was there less +in any part than three hundred yards of a deep flowing stream. + +Our progress up the river was rather slow; this was caused by waiting +opposite different villages for supplies of food. We might have done +with much less than we got; but my Makololo man, Pitsane, knew of the +generous orders of Sekeletu, and was not at all disposed to allow them +to remain a dead letter. The villages of the Banyeti contributed large +quantities of mosibe, a bright red bean yielded by a large tree. The +pulp inclosing the seed is not much thicker than a red wafer, and is +the portion used. It requires the addition of honey to render it at all +palatable. + +To these were added great numbers of the fruit which yields a variety of +the nux vomica, from which we derive that virulent poison strychnia. The +pulp between the nuts is the part eaten, and it is of a pleasant juicy +nature, having a sweet acidulous taste. The fruit itself resembles a +large yellow orange, but the rind is hard, and, with the pips and bark, +contains much of the deadly poison. They evince their noxious qualities +by an intensely bitter taste. The nuts, swallowed inadvertently, cause +considerable pain, but not death; and to avoid this inconvenience, the +people dry the pulp before the fire, in order to be able the more easily +to get rid of the noxious seeds. + +A much better fruit, called mobola, was also presented to us. This +bears, around a pretty large stone, as much of the fleshy part as the +common date, and it is stripped off the seeds and preserved in bags in +a similar manner to that fruit. Besides sweetness, the mobola has the +flavor of strawberries, with a touch of nauseousness. We carried some of +them, dried as provisions, more than a hundred miles from this spot. + +The next fruit, named mamosho (mother of morning), is the most delicious +of all. It is about the size of a walnut, and, unlike most of the other +uncultivated fruits, has a seed no larger than that of a date. The +fleshy part is juicy, and somewhat like the cashew-apple, with a +pleasant acidity added. Fruits similar to those which are here found +on trees are found on the plains of the Kalahari, growing on mere +herbaceous plants. There are several other examples of a similar nature. +Shrubs, well known as such in the south, assume the rank of trees as +we go to the north; and the change is quite gradual as our latitude +decreases, the gradations being herbaceous plants, shrubs, bushes, +small, then large trees. But it is questionable if, in the cases of +mamosho, mobola, and mawa, the tree and shrub are identical, though the +fruits so closely resemble each other; for I found both the dwarf and +tree in the same latitude. There is also a difference in the leaves, and +they bear at different seasons. + +The banks of the river were at this time appearing to greater advantage +than before. Many trees were putting on their fresh green leaves, though +they had got no rain, their lighter green contrasting beautifully with +the dark motsouri, or moyela, now covered with pink plums as large +as cherries. The rapids, having comparatively little water in them, +rendered our passage difficult. The canoes must never be allowed to come +broadside on to the stream, for, being flat-bottomed, they would, in +that case, be at once capsized, and every thing in them be lost. The men +work admirably, and are always in good humor; they leap into the water +without the least hesitation, to save the canoe from being caught by +eddies or dashed against the rocks. Many parts were now quite shallow, +and it required great address and power in balancing themselves to keep +the vessel free from rocks, which lay just beneath the surface. We might +have got deeper water in the middle, but the boatmen always keep near +the banks, on account of danger from the hippopotami. But, though we +might have had deeper water farther out, I believe that no part of the +rapids is very deep. The river is spread out more than a mile, and +the water flows rapidly over the rocky bottom. The portions only three +hundred yards wide are very deep, and contain large volumes of flowing +water in narrow compass, which, when spread over the much larger surface +at the rapids, must be shallow. Still, remembering that this was the end +of the dry season, when such rivers as the Orange do not even contain a +fifth part of the water of the Chobe, the difference between the rivers +of the north and south must be sufficiently obvious. + +The rapids are caused by rocks of dark brown trap, or of hardened +sandstone, stretching across the stream. In some places they form miles +of flat rocky bottom, with islets covered with trees. At the cataracts +noted in the map, the fall is from four to six feet, and, in guiding up +the canoe, the stem goes under the water, and takes in a quantity before +it can attain the higher level. We lost many of our biscuits in the +ascent through this. + +These rocks are covered with a small, hard aquatic plant, which, when +the surface is exposed, becomes dry and crisp, crackling under the foot +as if it contained much stony matter in its tissue. It probably assists +in disintegrating the rocks; for, in parts so high as not to be much +exposed to the action of the water or the influence of the plant, the +rocks are covered with a thin black glaze. + +In passing along under the overhanging trees of the banks, we often +saw the pretty turtle-doves sitting peacefully on their nests above the +roaring torrent. An ibis* had perched her home on the end of a stump. +Her loud, harsh scream of "Wa-wa-wa", and the piping of the fish-hawk, +are sounds which can never be forgotten by any one who has sailed on +the rivers north of 20 Deg. south. If we step on shore, the 'Charadrius +caruncula', a species of plover, a most plaguy sort of "public-spirited +individual", follows you, flying overhead, and is most persevering in +its attempts to give fair warning to all the animals within hearing to +flee from the approaching danger. The alarm-note, "tinc-tinc-tinc", of +another variety of the same family ('Pluvianus armatus' of Burchell) has +so much of a metallic ring, that this bird is called "setula-tsipi", or +hammering-iron. It is furnished with a sharp spur on its shoulder, much +like that on the heel of a cock, but scarcely half an inch in length. +Conscious of power, it may be seen chasing the white-necked raven with +great fury, and making even that comparatively large bird call out +from fear. It is this bird which is famed for its friendship with the +crocodile of the Nile by the name 'siksak', and which Mr. St. John +actually saw performing the part of toothpicker to the ugly reptile. +They are frequently seen on the sand-banks with the alligator, and, to +one passing by, often appear as if on that reptile's back; but I never +had the good fortune to witness the operation described not only by +St. John and Geoffrey St. Hilaire, but also by Herodotus. However, that +which none of these authors knew my head boatman, Mashauana, stopped the +canoe to tell us, namely, that a water-turtle which, in trying to ascend +a steep bank to lay her eggs, had toppled on her back, thus enabling us +to capture her, was an infallible omen of good luck for our journey. + + * The 'Hagidash', Latham; or 'Tantalus capensis' of Lich. + +Among the forest-trees which line the banks of the rocky parts of the +Leeambye several new birds were observed. Some are musical, and the +songs are pleasant in contrast with the harsh voice of the little green, +yellow-shouldered parrots of the country. There are also great numbers +of jet-black weavers, with yellowish-brown band on the shoulders. + +Here we saw, for the first time, a pretty little bird, colored dark +blue, except the wings and tail, which were of a chocolate hue. From the +tail two feathers are prolonged beyond the rest six inches. Also, +little birds colored white and black, of great vivacity, and always in +companies of six or eight together, and various others. From want of +books of reference, I could not decide whether they were actually new to +science. + +Francolins and Guinea-fowl abound along the banks; and on every dead +tree and piece of rock may be seen one or two species of the web-footed +'Plotus', darter, or snake-bird. They sit most of the day sunning +themselves over the stream, sometimes standing erect with their wings +outstretched; occasionally they may be seen engaged in fishing by +diving, and, as they swim about, their bodies are so much submerged that +hardly any thing appears above the water but their necks. The chief time +of feeding is by night, and, as the sun declines, they may be seen in +flocks flying from their roosting-places to the fishing-grounds. This is +a most difficult bird to catch when disabled. It is thoroughly expert +in diving--goes down so adroitly and comes up again in the most unlikely +places, that the people, though most skillful in the management of the +canoes, can rarely secure them. The rump of the darter is remarkably +prolonged, and capable of being bent, so as to act both as a rudder in +swimming, and as a lever to lift the bird high enough out of the water +to give free scope to its wings. It can rise at will from the water by +means of this appendage. + +The fine fish-hawk, with white head and neck, and reddish-chocolate +colored body, may also frequently be seen perched on the trees, and fish +are often found dead which have fallen victims to its talons. One most +frequently seen in this condition is itself a destroyer of fish. It is +a stout-bodied fish, about fifteen or eighteen inches long, of a light +yellow color, and gayly ornamented with stripes and spots. It has a +most imposing array of sharp, conical teeth outside the lips--objects +of dread to the fisherman, for it can use them effectually. One which +we picked up dead had killed itself by swallowing another fish, which, +though too large for its stomach and throat, could not be disgorged. + +This fish-hawk generally kills more prey than it can devour. It eats a +portion of the back of the fish, and leaves the rest for the Barotse, +who often had a race across the river when they saw an abandoned morsel +lying on the opposite sand-banks. The hawk is, however, not always so +generous, for, as I myself was a witness on the Zouga, it sometimes +plunders the purse of the pelican. Soaring over head, and seeing this +large, stupid bird fishing beneath, it watches till a fine fish is safe +in the pelican's pouch; then descending, not very quickly, but with +considerable noise of wing, the pelican looks up to see what is the +matter, and, as the hawk comes near, he supposes that he is about to +be killed, and roars out "Murder!" The opening of his mouth enables the +hawk to whisk the fish out of the pouch, upon which the pelican does not +fly away, but commences fishing again, the fright having probably made +him forget he had any thing in his purse. + +A fish called mosheba, about the size of a minnow, often skims along the +surface for several yards, in order to get out of the way of the canoe. +It uses the pectoral fins, as the flying-fish do, but never makes a +clean flight. It is rather a succession of hops along the surface, made +by the aid of the side fins. It never becomes large. + +Numbers of iguanos (mpulu) sit sunning themselves on overhanging +branches of the trees, and splash into the water as we approach. They +are highly esteemed as an article of food, the flesh being tender and +gelatinous. The chief boatman, who occupies the stem, has in consequence +a light javelin always at hand to spear them if they are not quickly out +of sight. These, and large alligators gliding in from the banks with +a heavy plunge as we come round a sudden bend of the stream, were the +occurrences of every hour as we sped up the river. + +The rapids in the part of the river between Katima-molelo and Nameta +are relieved by several reaches of still, deep water, fifteen or twenty +miles long. In these very large herds of hippopotami are seen, and +the deep furrows they make, in ascending the banks to graze during the +nights, are every where apparent. They are guided back to the water by +the scent, but a long continued pouring rain makes it impossible for +them to perceive, by that means, in which direction the river lies, and +they are found bewildered on the land. The hunters take advantage of +their helplessness on these occasions to kill them. + +It is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd, for they are almost +always hidden beneath the waters; but as they require to come up every +few minutes to breathe, when there is a constant succession of heads +thrown up, then the herd is supposed to be large. They love a still +reach of the stream, as in the more rapid parts of the channel they are +floated down so quickly that much exertion is necessary to regain the +distance lost by frequently swimming up again: such constant exertion +disturbs them in their nap. They prefer to remain by day in a drowsy, +yawning state, and, though their eyes are open, they take little notice +of things at a distance. The males utter a loud succession of snorting +grunts, which may be heard a mile off. The canoe in which I was, in +passing over a wounded one, elicited a distinct grunting, though the +animal lay entirely under water. + +The young, when very little, take their stand on the neck of the +dam, and the small head, rising above the large, comes soonest to the +surface. The dam, knowing the more urgent need of her calf, comes more +frequently to the surface when it is in her care. But in the rivers +of Londa, where they are much in danger of being shot, even the +hippopotamus gains wit by experience; for, while those in the Zambesi +put up their heads openly to blow, those referred to keep their noses +among water-plants, and breathe so quietly that one would not dream of +their existence in the river except by footprints on the banks. + + + + +Chapter 14. + +Increasing Beauty of the Country--Mode of spending the Day--The People +and the Falls of Gonye--A Makololo Foray--A second prevented, and +Captives delivered up--Politeness and Liberality of the People-- +The Rains--Present of Oxen--The fugitive Barotse--Sekobinyane's +Misgovernment--Bee-eaters and other Birds--Fresh-water +Sponges--Current--Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta--Continued +Kindness--Arrangements for spending the Night during the +Journey--Cooking and Washing--Abundance of animal Life--Different +Species of Birds--Water-fowl--Egyptian Geese--Alligators--Narrow Escape +of one of my Men--Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator--Large +Game--The most vulnerable Spot--Gun Medicine--A Sunday--Birds of +Song--Depravity; its Treatment--Wild Fruits--Green Pigeons--Shoals of +Fish--Hippopotami. + + + +30TH OF NOVEMBER, 1853. At Gonye Falls. No rain has fallen here, so it +is excessively hot. The trees have put on their gayest dress, and many +flowers adorn the landscape, yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at +midday and look languid for want of rain. If the country increases as +much in beauty in front as it has done within the last four degrees of +latitude, it will be indeed a lovely land. + +We all felt great lassitude in traveling. The atmosphere is oppressive +both in cloud and sunshine. The evaporation from the river must be +excessively great, and I feel as if the fluids of the system joined in +the general motion of watery vapor upward, as enormous quantities of +water must be drunk to supply its place. + +When under way our usual procedure is this: We get up a little before +five in the morning; it is then beginning to dawn. While I am dressing, +coffee is made; and, having filled my pannikin, the remainder is handed +to my companions, who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage. +The servants are busy loading the canoes, while the principal men are +sipping the coffee, and, that being soon over, we embark. The next two +hours are the most pleasant part of the day's sail. The men paddle away +most vigorously; the Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, have large, +deeply-developed chests and shoulders, with indifferent lower +extremities. They often engage in loud scolding of each other in order +to relieve the tedium of their work. About eleven we land, and eat +any meat which may have remained from the previous evening meal, or a +biscuit with honey, and drink water. + +After an hour's rest we again embark and cower under an umbrella. The +heat is oppressive, and, being weak from the last attack of fever, I +can not land and keep the camp supplied with flesh. The men, being quite +uncovered in the sun, perspire profusely, and in the afternoon begin +to stop, as if waiting for the canoes which have been left behind. +Sometimes we reach a sleeping-place two hours before sunset, and, all +being troubled with languor, we gladly remain for the night. Coffee +again, and a biscuit, or a piece of coarse bread made of maize meal, +or that of the native corn, make up the bill of fare for the evening, +unless we have been fortunate enough to kill something, when we boil +a potful of flesh. This is done by cutting it up into long strips and +pouring in water till it is covered. When that is boiled dry, the meat +is considered ready. + +The people at Gonye carry the canoes over the space requisite to avoid +the falls by slinging them on poles tied on diagonally. They place these +on their shoulders, and, setting about the work with good humor, soon +accomplish the task. They are a merry set of mortals; a feeble joke sets +them off in a fit of laughter. Here, as elsewhere, all petitioned for +the magic lantern, and, as it is a good means of conveying instruction, +I willingly complied. + +The falls of Gonye have not been made by wearing back, like those of +Niagara, but are of a fissure form. For many miles below, the river is +confined in a narrow space of not more than one hundred yards wide. +The water goes boiling along, and gives the idea of great masses of it +rolling over and over, so that even the most expert swimmer would find +it difficult to keep on the surface. Here it is that the river, when in +flood, rises fifty or sixty feet in perpendicular height. The islands +above the falls are covered with foliage as beautiful as can be seen +any where. Viewed from the mass of rock which overhangs the fall, the +scenery was the loveliest I had seen. + +Nothing worthy of note occurred on our way up to Nameta. There we heard +that a party of the Makololo, headed by Lerimo, had made a foray to the +north and up the Leeba, in the very direction in which we were about to +proceed. Mpololo, the uncle of Sekeletu, is considered the head man of +the Barotse valley; and the perpetrators had his full sanction, because +Masiko, a son of Santuru, the former chief of the Barotse, had fled high +up the Leeambye, and, establishing himself there, had sent men down to +the vicinity of Naliele to draw away the remaining Barotse from their +allegiance. Lerimo's party had taken some of this Masiko's subjects +prisoners, and destroyed several villages of the Balonda, to whom we +were going. This was in direct opposition to the policy of Sekeletu, who +wished to be at peace with these northern tribes; and Pitsane, my head +man, was the bearer of orders to Mpololo to furnish us with presents +for the very chiefs they had attacked. Thus we were to get large pots of +clarified butter and bunches of beads, in confirmation of the message of +peace we were to deliver. + +When we reached Litofe, we heard that a fresh foray was in +contemplation, but I sent forward orders to disband the party +immediately. At Ma-Sekeletu's town we found the head offender, Mpololo +himself, and I gave him a bit of my mind, to the effect that, as I was +going with the full sanction of Sekeletu, if any harm happened to me +in consequence of his ill-advised expedition, the guilt would rest with +him. Ma-Sekeletu, who was present, heartily approved all I said, and +suggested that all the captives taken by Lerimo should be returned by +my hand, to show Masiko that the guilt of the foray lay not with the +superior persons of the Makololo, but with a mere servant. Her good +sense appeared in other respects besides, and, as this was exactly what +my own party had previously resolved to suggest, we were pleased to hear +Mpololo agree to do what he was advised. He asked me to lay the matter +before the under-chiefs of Naliele, and when we reached that place, +on the 9th of December, I did so in a picho, called expressly for +the purpose. Lerimo was present, and felt rather crestfallen when his +exploit was described by Mohorisi, one of my companions, as one of +extreme cowardice, he having made an attack upon the defenseless +villagers of Londa, while, as we had found on our former visit, a +lion had actually killed eight people of Naliele without his daring to +encounter it. The Makololo are cowardly in respect to animals, but brave +against men. Mpololo took all the guilt upon himself before the people, +and delivered up a captive child whom his wife had in her possession; +others followed his example, till we procured the release of five of the +prisoners. Some thought, as Masiko had tried to take their children by +stratagem, they ought to take his by force, as the two modes suited the +genius of each people--the Makalaka delight in cunning, and the Makololo +in fighting; and others thought, if Sekeletu meant them to be at peace +with Masiko, he ought to have told them so. + +It is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a marauding party +with men of the same tribe as the aggressors, but my people were in +good spirits, and several volunteers even offered to join our ranks. +We, however, adhered strictly to the orders of Sekeletu as to our +companions, and refused all others. + +The people of every village treated us most liberally, presenting, +besides oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than we could stow away in +our canoes. The cows in this valley are now yielding, as they frequently +do, more milk than the people can use, and both men and women present +butter in such quantity that I shall be able to refresh my men as we +move along. Anointing the skin prevents the excessive evaporation of +the fluids of the body, and acts as clothing in both sun and shade. They +always made their presents gracefully. When an ox was given, the owner +would say, "Here is a little bit of bread for you." This was pleasing, +for I had been accustomed to the Bechuanas presenting a miserable goat, +with the pompous exclamation, "Behold an ox!" The women persisted in +giving me copious supplies of shrill praises, or "lullilooing"; but, +though I frequently told them to modify their "great lords" and "great +lions" to more humble expressions, they so evidently intended to do +me honor that I could not help being pleased with the poor creatures' +wishes for our success. + +The rains began while we were at Naliele; this is much later than usual; +but, though the Barotse valley has been in need of rain, the people +never lack abundance of food. The showers are refreshing, but the air +feels hot and close; the thermometer, however, in a cool hut, stands +only at 84 Deg. The access of the external air to any spot at once +raises its temperature above 90 Deg. A new attack of fever here caused +excessive languor; but, as I am already getting tired of quoting my +fevers, and never liked to read travels myself where much was said about +the illnesses of the traveler, I shall henceforth endeavor to say little +about them. + +We here sent back the canoe of Sekeletu, and got the loan of others from +Mpololo. Eight riding oxen, and seven for slaughter, were, according to +the orders of that chief, also furnished; some were intended for our own +use, and others as presents to the chiefs of the Balonda. Mpololo was +particularly liberal in giving all that Sekeletu ordered, though, as +he feeds on the cattle he has in charge, he might have felt it so much +abstracted from his own perquisites. Mpololo now acts the great man, +and is followed every where by a crowd of toadies, who sing songs in +disparagement of Mpepe, of whom he always lived in fear. While Mpepe was +alive, he too was regaled with the same fulsome adulation, and now they +curse him. They are very foul-tongued; equals, on meeting, often greet +each other with a profusion of oaths, and end the volley with a laugh. + +In coming up the river to Naliele we met a party of fugitive Barotse +returning to their homes, and, as the circumstance illustrates the +social status of these subjects of the Makololo, I introduce it here. +The villagers in question were the children, or serfs, if we may use the +term, of a young man of the same age and tribe as Sekeletu, who, being +of an irritable temper, went by the nickname of Sekobinyane--a little +slavish thing. His treatment of his servants was so bad that most of +them had fled; and when the Mambari came, and, contrary to the orders of +Sekeletu, purchased slaves, Sekobinyane sold one or two of the Barotse +children of his village. The rest fled immediately to Masiko, and were +gladly received by that Barotse chief as his subjects. + +When Sekeletu and I first ascended the Leeambye, we met Sekobinyane +coming down, on his way to Linyanti. On being asked the news, he +remained silent about the loss of his village, it being considered a +crime among the Makololo for any one to treat his people so ill as to +cause them to run away from him. He then passed us, and, dreading the +vengeance of Sekeletu for his crime, secretly made his escape from +Linyanti to Lake Ngami. He was sent for, however, and the chief at the +lake delivered him up, on Sekeletu declaring that he had no intention +of punishing him otherwise than by scolding. He did not even do that, as +Sekobinyane was evidently terrified enough, and also became ill through +fear. + +The fugitive villagers remained only a few weeks with their new master +Masiko, and then fled back again, and were received as if they had done +nothing wrong. All united in abusing the conduct of Sekobinyane, and no +one condemned the fugitives; and the cattle, the use of which they had +previously enjoyed, never having been removed from their village, they +re-established themselves with apparent gladness. + +This incident may give some idea of the serfdom of the subject tribes, +and, except that they are sometimes punished for running away and other +offenses, I can add nothing more by way of showing the true nature of +this form of servitude. + +Leaving Naliele, amid abundance of good wishes for the success of +our expedition, and hopes that we might return accompanied with white +traders, we began again our ascent of the river. It was now beginning to +rise, though the rains had but just commenced in the valley. The banks +are low, but cleanly cut, and seldom sloping. At low water they are from +four to eight feet high, and make the river always assume very much the +aspect of a canal. They are in some parts of whitish, tenacious clay, +with strata of black clay intermixed, and black loam in sand, or pure +sand stratified. As the river rises it is always wearing to one side or +the other, and is known to have cut across from one bend to another, +and to form new channels. As we coast along the shore, pieces which are +undermined often fall in with a splash like that caused by the plunge of +an alligator, and endanger the canoe. + +These perpendicular banks afford building-places to a pretty bee-eater,* +which loves to breed in society. The face of the sand-bank is perforated +with hundreds of holes leading to their nests, each of which is about +a foot apart from the other; and as we pass they pour out of their +hiding-places, and float overhead. + + * 'Merops apiaster' and 'M. bullockoides' (Smith). + +A speckled kingfisher is seen nearly every hundred yards, which builds +in similar spots, and attracts the attention of herd-boys, who dig out +its nest for the sake of the young. This, and a most lovely little blue +and orange kingfisher, are seen every where along the banks, dashing +down like a shot into the water for their prey. A third, seen more +rarely, is as large as a pigeon, and is of a slaty color. + +Another inhabitant of the banks is the sand-martin, which also likes +company in the work of raising a family. They never leave this part of +the country. One may see them preening themselves in the very depth of +winter, while the swallows, of which we shall yet speak, take winter +trips. I saw sand-martins at the Orange River during a period of winter +frost; it is, therefore, probable that they do not migrate even from +thence. + +Around the reeds, which in some parts line the banks, we see fresh-water +sponges. They usually encircle the stalk, and are hard and brittle, +presenting numbers of small round grains near their circumference. + +The river was running at the rate of five miles an hour, and carried +bunches of reed and decaying vegetable matter on its surface; yet the +water was not discolored. It had, however, a slightly yellowish-green +tinge, somewhat deeper than its natural color. This arose from the +quantity of sand carried by the rising flood from sand-banks, which are +annually shifted from one spot to another, and from the pieces falling +in as the banks are worn; for when the water is allowed to stand in +a glass, a few seconds suffice for its deposit at the bottom. This is +considered an unhealthy period. When waiting, on one occasion, for the +other canoes to come up, I felt no inclination to leave the one I was +in; but my head boatman, Mashauana, told me never to remain on board +while so much vegetable matter was floating down the stream. + +17TH DECEMBER. At Libonta. We were detained for days together collecting +contributions of fat and butter, according to the orders of Sekeletu, as +presents to the Balonda chiefs. Much fever prevailed, and ophthalmia was +rife, as is generally the case before the rains begin. Some of my own +men required my assistance, as well as the people of Libonta. A lion had +done a good deal of mischief here, and when the people went to attack it +two men were badly wounded; one of them had his thigh-bone quite broken, +showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws. The inflammation +produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to one of them. + +Here we demanded the remainder of the captives, and got our number +increased to nineteen. They consisted of women and children, and one +young man of twenty. One of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as +we embarked. The Makololo under-chiefs often act in direct opposition +to the will of the head chief, trusting to circumstances and +brazenfacedness to screen themselves from his open displeasure; and as +he does not always find it convenient to notice faults, they often go to +considerable lengths in wrong-doing. + +Libonta is the last town of the Makololo; so, when we parted from it, we +had only a few cattle-stations and outlying hamlets in front, and then +an uninhabited border country till we came to Londa or Lunda. Libonta is +situated on a mound like the rest of the villages in the Barotse valley, +but here the tree-covered sides of the valley begin to approach nearer +the river. The village itself belongs to two of the chief wives of +Sebituane, who furnished us with an ox and abundance of other food. The +same kindness was manifested by all who could afford to give any thing; +and as I glance over their deeds of generosity recorded in my journal, +my heart glows with gratitude to them, and I hope and pray that God may +spare me to make them some return. + +Before leaving the villages entirely, we may glance at our way of +spending the nights. As soon as we land, some of the men cut a little +grass for my bed, while Mashauana plants the poles of the little tent. +These are used by day for carrying burdens, for the Barotse fashion is +exactly like that of the natives of India, only the burden is fastened +near the ends of the pole, and not suspended by long cords. The bed is +made, and boxes ranged on each side of it, and then the tent pitched +over all. Four or five feet in front of my tent is placed the principal +or kotla fire, the wood for which must be collected by the man who +occupies the post of herald, and takes as his perquisite the heads of +all the oxen slaughtered, and of all the game too. Each person knows the +station he is to occupy, in reference to the post of honor at the fire +in front of the door of the tent. The two Makololo occupy my right and +left, both in eating and sleeping, as long as the journey lasts. But +Mashauana, my head boatman, makes his bed at the door of the tent as +soon as I retire. The rest, divided into small companies according to +their tribes, make sheds all round the fire, leaving a horseshoe-shaped +space in front sufficient for the cattle to stand in. The fire gives +confidence to the oxen, so the men are always careful to keep them in +sight of it. The sheds are formed by planting two stout forked poles in +an inclined direction, and placing another over these in a horizontal +position. A number of branches are then stuck in the ground in the +direction to which the poles are inclined, the twigs drawn down to the +horizontal pole and tied with strips of bark. Long grass is then laid +over the branches in sufficient quantity to draw off the rain, and we +have sheds open to the fire in front, but secure from beasts behind. +In less than an hour we were usually all under cover. We never lacked +abundance of grass during the whole journey. It is a picturesque sight +at night, when the clear bright moon of these climates glances on the +sleeping forms around, to look out upon the attitudes of profound repose +both men and beasts assume. There being no danger from wild animals in +such a night, the fires are allowed almost to go out; and as there is +no fear of hungry dogs coming over sleepers and devouring the food, or +quietly eating up the poor fellows' blankets, which at best were but +greasy skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the picture was +one of perfect peace. + +The cooking is usually done in the natives' own style, and, as they +carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands before handling food, +it is by no means despicable. Sometimes alterations are made at my +suggestion, and then they believe that they can cook in thorough white +man's fashion. The cook always comes in for something left in the pot, +so all are eager to obtain the office. + +I taught several of them to wash my shirts, and they did it well, though +their teacher had never been taught that work himself. Frequent changes +of linen and sunning of my blanket kept me more comfortable than +might have been anticipated, and I feel certain that the lessons of +cleanliness rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood helped to +maintain that respect which these people entertain for European ways. +It is questionable if a descent to barbarous ways ever elevates a man in +the eyes of savages. + +When quite beyond the inhabited parts, we found the country abounding in +animal life of every form. There are upward of thirty species of birds +on the river itself. Hundreds of the 'Ibis religiosa' come down the +Leeambye with the rising water, as they do on the Nile; then large white +pelicans, in flocks of three hundred at a time, following each other +in long extending line, rising and falling as they fly so regularly +all along as to look like an extended coil of birds; clouds of a black +shell-eating bird, called linongolo ('Anastomus lamelligerus'); also +plovers, snipes, curlews, and herons without number. + +There are, besides the more common, some strange varieties. The pretty +white 'ardetta' is seen in flocks, settling on the backs of large herds +of buffaloes, and following them on the wing when they run; while the +kala ('Textor erythrorhynchus') is a better horseman, for it sits on the +withers when the animal is at full speed. + +Then those strange birds, the scissor-bills, with snow-white breast, +jet-black coat, and red beak, sitting by day on the sand-banks, the very +picture of comfort and repose. Their nests are only little hollows made +on these same sand-banks, without any attempt of concealment; they watch +them closely, and frighten away the marabou and crows from their eggs +by feigned attacks at their heads. When man approaches their nests, they +change their tactics, and, like the lapwing and ostrich, let one wing +drop and make one leg limp, as if lame. The upper mandible being so much +shorter than the lower, the young are more helpless than the stork in +the fable with the flat dishes, and must have every thing conveyed into +the mouth by the parents till they are able to provide for themselves. +The lower mandible, as thin as a paper-knife, is put into the water +while the bird skims along the surface, and scoops up any little insects +it meets. It has great length of wing, and can continue its flight with +perfect ease, the wings acting, though kept above the level of the body. +The wonder is, how this plowing of the surface of the water can be so +well performed as to yield a meal, for it is usually done in the dark. +Like most aquatic feeders, they work by night, when insects and fishes +rise to the surface. They have great affection for their young, +its amount being increased in proportion to the helplessness of the +offspring. + +There are also numbers of spoonbills, nearly white in plumage; the +beautiful, stately flamingo; the Numidian crane, or demoiselle, some of +which, tamed at Government House, Cape Town, struck every one as most +graceful ornaments to a noble mansion, as they perched on its pillars. +There are two cranes besides--one light blue, the other also light blue, +but with a white neck; and gulls ('Procellaria') of different sizes +abound. + +One pretty little wader, an avoset, appears as if standing on stilts, +its legs are so long; and its bill seems bent the wrong way, or upward. +It is constantly seen wading in the shallows, digging up little slippery +insects, the peculiar form of the bill enabling it to work them easily +out of the sand. When feeding, it puts its head under the water to +seize the insect at the bottom, then lifts it up quickly, making a rapid +gobbling, as if swallowing a wriggling worm. + +The 'Parra Africana' runs about on the surface, as if walking on water, +catching insects. It too has long, thin legs, and extremely long toes, +for the purpose of enabling it to stand on the floating lotus-leaves +and other aquatic plants. When it stands on a lotus-leaf five inches in +diameter, the spread of the toes, acting on the principle of snow-shoes, +occupies all the surface, and it never sinks, though it obtains a +livelihood, not by swimming or flying, but by walking on the water. + +Water-birds, whose prey or food requires a certain aim or action in one +direction, have bills quite straight in form, as the heron and snipe; +while those which are intended to come in contact with hard substances, +as breaking shells, have the bills gently curved, in order that the +shock may not be communicated to the brain. + +The Barotse valley contains great numbers of large black geese.* They +may be seen every where walking slowly about, feeding. They have a +strong black spur on the shoulder, like the armed plover, and as strong +as that on the heel of a cock, but are never seen to use them, except +in defense of their young. They choose ant-hills for their nests, and +in the time of laying the Barotse consume vast quantities of their eggs. +There are also two varieties of geese, of somewhat smaller size, but +better eating. One of these, the Egyptian goose, or Vulpanser, can not +rise from the water, and during the floods of the river great numbers +are killed by being pursued in canoes. The third is furnished with +a peculiar knob on the beak. These, with myriads of ducks of three +varieties, abound every where on the Leeambye. On one occasion the canoe +neared a bank on which a large flock was sitting. Two shots furnished +our whole party with a supper, for we picked up seventeen ducks and a +goose. No wonder the Barotse always look back to this fruitful valley as +the Israelites did to the flesh-pots of Egypt. The poorest persons are +so well supplied with food from their gardens, fruits from the forest +trees, and fish from the river, that their children, when taken into +the service of the Makololo, where they have only one large meal a day, +become quite emaciated, and pine for a return to their parents. + + * 'Anser leucagaster' and 'melanogaster'. + +Part of our company marched along the banks with the oxen, and part went +in the canoes, but our pace was regulated by the speed of the men on +shore. Their course was rather difficult, on account of the numbers of +departing and re-entering branches of the Leeambye, which they had to +avoid or wait at till we ferried them over. The number of alligators is +prodigious, and in this river they are more savage than in some others. +Many children are carried off annually at Sesheke and other towns; for, +notwithstanding the danger, when they go down for water they almost +always must play a while. This reptile is said by the natives to strike +the victim with its tail, then drag him in and drown him. When lying +in the water watching for prey, the body never appears. Many calves +are lost also, and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at +Sesheke without some loss. I never could avoid shuddering on seeing my +men swimming across these branches, after one of them had been caught by +the thigh and taken below. He, however, retained, as nearly all of them +in the most trying circumstances do, his full presence of mind, and, +having a small, square, ragged-edged javelin with him, when dragged to +the bottom gave the alligator a stab behind the shoulder. The alligator, +writhing in pain, left him, and he came out with the deep marks of +the reptile's teeth on his thigh. Here the people have no antipathy to +persons who have met with such an adventure, but, in the Bamangwato and +Bakwain tribes, if a man is either bitten or even has had water splashed +over him by the reptile's tail, he is expelled his tribe. When on the +Zouga we saw one of the Bamangwato living among the Bayeiye, who had +the misfortune to have been bitten and driven out of his tribe in +consequence. Fearing that I would regard him with the same disgust which +his countrymen profess to feel, he would not tell me the cause of his +exile, but the Bayeiye informed me of it, and the scars of the teeth +were visible on his thigh. If the Bakwains happened to go near an +alligator they would spit on the ground, and indicate its presence by +saying "Boleo ki bo"--"There is sin". They imagine the mere sight of +it would give inflammation of the eyes; and though they eat the zebra +without hesitation, yet if one bites a man he is expelled the tribe, and +obliged to take his wife and family away to the Kalahari. These curious +relics of the animal-worship of former times scarcely exist among the +Makololo. Sebituane acted on the principle, "Whatever is food for men is +food for me;" so no man is here considered unclean. The Barotse appear +inclined to pray to alligators and eat them too, for when I wounded +a water-antelope, called mochose, it took to the water; when near the +other side of the river an alligator appeared at its tail, and then both +sank together. Mashauana, who was nearer to it than I, told me that, +"though he had called to it to let his meat alone, it refused to +listen." One day we passed some Barotse lads who had speared an +alligator, and were waiting in expectation of its floating soon after. +The meat has a strong musky odor, not at all inviting for any one except +the very hungry. + +When we had gone thirty or forty miles above Libonta we sent eleven +of our captives to the west, to the chief called Makoma, with an +explanatory message. This caused some delay; but as we were loaded +with presents of food from the Makololo, and the wild animals were in +enormous herds, we fared sumptuously. It was grievous, however, to +shoot the lovely creatures, they were so tame. With but little skill +in stalking, one could easily get within fifty or sixty yards of them. +There I lay, looking at the graceful forms and motions of beautiful +pokus,* leches, and other antelopes, often till my men, wondering what +was the matter, came up to see, and frightened them away. If we had been +starving, I could have slaughtered them with as little hesitation as I +should cut off a patient's leg; but I felt a doubt, and the antelopes +got the benefit of it. Have they a guardian spirit over them? I have +repeatedly observed, when I approached a herd lying beyond an ant-hill +with a tree on it, and viewed them with the greatest caution, they very +soon showed symptoms of uneasiness. They did not sniff danger in +the wind, for I was to leeward of them; but the almost invariable +apprehension of danger which arose, while unconscious of the direction +in which it lay, made me wonder whether each had what the ancient +physicians thought we all possessed, an archon, or presiding spirit. + + * I propose to name this new species 'Antilope Vardonii', + after the African traveler, Major Vardon. + +If we could ascertain the most fatal spot in an animal, we could +dispatch it with the least possible amount of suffering; but as that is +probably the part to which the greatest amount of nervous influence is +directed at the moment of receiving the shot, if we can not be sure of +the heart or brain, we are never certain of speedy death. Antelopes, +formed for a partially amphibious existence, and other animals of that +class, are much more tenacious of life than those which are purely +terrestrial. Most antelopes, when in distress or pursued, make for the +water. If hunted, they always do. A leche shot right through the body, +and no limb-bone broken, is almost sure to get away, while a zebra, with +a wound of no greater severity, will probably drop down dead. I have +seen a rhinoceros, while standing apparently chewing the cud, drop down +dead from a shot in the stomach, while others shot through one lung +and the stomach go off as if little hurt. But if one should crawl up +silently to within twenty yards either of the white or black rhinoceros, +throwing up a pinch of dust every now and then, to find out that the +anxiety to keep the body concealed by the bushes has not led him to +the windward side, then sit down, rest the elbow on the knees, and aim, +slanting a little upward, at a dark spot behind the shoulders, it falls +stone dead. + +To show that a shock on the part of the system to which much nervous +force is at the time directed will destroy life, it may be mentioned +that an eland, when hunted, can be dispatched by a wound which does +little more than injure the muscular system; its whole nervous force is +then imbuing the organs of motion; and a giraffe, when pressed hard by a +good horse only two or three hundred yards, has been known to drop down +dead, without any wound being inflicted at all. A full gallop by an +eland or giraffe quite dissipates its power, and the hunters, aware of +this, always try to press them at once to it, knowing that they have +but a short space to run before the animals are in their power. In doing +this, the old sportsmen are careful not to go too close to the giraffe's +tail, for this animal can swing his hind foot round in a way which would +leave little to choose between a kick with it and a clap from the arm of +a windmill. + +When the nervous force is entire, terrible wounds may be inflicted +without killing; a tsessebe having been shot through the neck while +quietly feeding, we went to him, and one of the men cut his throat deep +enough to bleed him largely. He started up after this and ran more than +a mile, and would have got clear off had not a dog brought him to bay +under a tree, where we found him standing. + +My men, having never had fire-arms in their hands before, found it so +difficult to hold the musket steady at the flash of fire in the pan, +that they naturally expected me to furnish them with "gun medicine", +without which, it is almost universally believed, no one can shoot +straight. Great expectations had been formed when I arrived among the +Makololo on this subject; but, having invariably declined to deceive +them, as some for their own profit have done, my men now supposed that I +would at last consent, and thereby relieve myself from the hard work of +hunting by employing them after due medication. This I was most willing +to do, if I could have done it honestly; for, having but little of the +hunting 'furore' in my composition, I always preferred eating the +game to killing it. Sulphur is the remedy most admired, and I remember +Sechele giving a large price for a very small bit. He also gave some +elephants' tusks, worth 30 Pounds, for another medicine which was to +make him invulnerable to musket balls. As I uniformly recommended that +these things should be tested by experiment, a calf was anointed with +the charm and tied to a tree. It proved decisive, and Sechele remarked +it was "pleasanter to be deceived than undeceived." I offered sulphur +for the same purpose, but that was declined, even though a person +came to the town afterward and rubbed his hands with a little before a +successful trial of shooting at a mark. + +I explained to my men the nature of a gun, and tried to teach them, but +they would soon have expended all the ammunition in my possession. I +was thus obliged to do all the shooting myself ever afterward. Their +inability was rather a misfortune; for, in consequence of working too +soon after having been bitten by the lion, the bone of my left arm +had not united well. Continual hard manual labor, and some falls from +ox-back, lengthened the ligament by which the ends of the bones were +united, and a false joint was the consequence. The limb has never been +painful, as those of my companions on the day of the rencounter with the +lion have been, but, there being a joint too many, I could not steady +the rifle, and was always obliged to shoot with the piece resting on +the left shoulder. I wanted steadiness of aim, and it generally happened +that the more hungry the party became, the more frequently I missed the +animals. + +We spent a Sunday on our way up to the confluence of the Leeba and +Leeambye. Rains had fallen here before we came, and the woods had put on +their gayest hue. Flowers of great beauty and curious forms grow every +where; they are unlike those in the south, and so are the trees. Many +of the forest-tree leaves are palmated and largely developed; the trunks +are covered with lichens, and the abundance of ferns which appear in the +woods shows we are now in a more humid climate than any to the south of +the Barotse valley. The ground begins to swarm with insect life; and in +the cool, pleasant mornings the welkin rings with the singing of birds, +which is not so delightful as the notes of birds at home, because I +have not been familiar with them from infancy. The notes here, however, +strike the mind by their loudness and variety, as the wellings forth +from joyous hearts of praise to Him who fills them with overflowing +gladness. All of us rise early to enjoy the luscious balmy air of the +morning. We then have worship; but, amid all the beauty and loveliness +with which we are surrounded, there is still a feeling of want in the +soul in viewing one's poor companions, and hearing bitter, impure words +jarring on the ear in the perfection of the scenes of Nature, and a +longing that both their hearts and ours might be brought into harmony +with the Great Father of Spirits. I pointed out, in, as usual, the +simplest words I could employ, the remedy which God has presented to +us, in the inexpressibly precious gift of His own Son, on whom the Lord +"laid the iniquity of us all." The great difficulty in dealing with +these people is to make the subject plain. The minds of the auditors +can not be understood by one who has not mingled much with them. They +readily pray for the forgiveness of sins, and then sin again; confess +the evil of it, and there the matter ends. + +I shall not often advert to their depravity. My practice has always been +to apply the remedy with all possible earnestness, but never allow my +own mind to dwell on the dark shades of men's characters. I have never +been able to draw pictures of guilt, as if that could awaken Christian +sympathy. The evil is there. But all around in this fair creation are +scenes of beauty, and to turn from these to ponder on deeds of sin can +not promote a healthy state of the faculties. I attribute much of the +bodily health I enjoy to following the plan adopted by most physicians, +who, while engaged in active, laborious efforts to assist the needy, +at the same time follow the delightful studies of some department of +natural history. The human misery and sin we endeavor to alleviate and +cure may be likened to the sickness and impurity of some of the back +slums of great cities. One contents himself by ministering to the sick +and trying to remove the causes, without remaining longer in the filth +than is necessary for his work; another, equally anxious for the public +good, stirs up every cesspool, that he may describe its reeking vapors, +and, by long contact with impurities, becomes himself infected, sickens, +and dies. + +The men went about during the day, and brought back wild fruits of +several varieties, which I had not hitherto seen. One, called mogametsa, +is a bean with a little pulp round it, which tastes like sponge-cake; +another, named mawa, grows abundantly on a low bush. There are many +berries and edible bulbs almost every where. The mamosho or moshomosho, +and milo (a medlar), were to be found near our encampment. These are +both good, if indeed one can be a fair judge who felt quite disposed to +pass a favorable verdict on every fruit which had the property of being +eatable at all. Many kinds are better than our crab-apple or sloe, and, +had they the care and culture these have enjoyed, might take high rank +among the fruits of the world. All that the Africans have thought of has +been present gratification; and now, as I sometimes deposit date-seeds +in the soil, and tell them I have no hope whatever of seeing the fruit, +it seems to them as the act of the South Sea Islanders appears to us, +when they planted in their gardens iron nails received from Captain +Cook. + +There are many fruits and berries in the forests, the uses of which are +unknown to my companions. Great numbers of a kind of palm I have never +met with before were seen growing at and below the confluence of the +Loeti and Leeambye; the seed probably came down the former river. It is +nearly as tall as the palmyra. The fruit is larger than of that species; +it is about four inches long, and has a soft yellow pulp round the +kernel or seed; when ripe, it is fluid and stringy, like the wild mango, +and not very pleasant to eat. + +Before we came to the junction of the Leeba and Leeambye we found +the banks twenty feet high, and composed of marly sandstone. They are +covered with trees, and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants. I +suspect the fly has some connection with this animal, and the Portuguese +in the district of Tete must think so too, for they call it the 'Musca +da elephant' (the elephant fly). + +The water of inundation covers even these lofty banks, but does not +stand long upon them; hence the crop of trees. Where it remains for any +length of time, trees can not live. On the right bank, or that in which +the Loeti flows, there is an extensive flat country called Manga, which, +though covered with grass, is destitute in a great measure of trees. + +Flocks of green pigeons rose from the trees as we passed along the +banks, and the notes of many birds told that we were now among strangers +of the feathered tribe. The beautiful trogon, with bright scarlet breast +and black back, uttered a most peculiar note, similar to that we read +of as having once been emitted by Memnon, and likened to the tuning of +a lyre. The boatmen answered it by calling "Nama, nama!"--meat, meat--as +if they thought that a repetition of the note would be a good omen for +our success in hunting. Many more interesting birds were met; but I +could make no collection, as I was proceeding on the plan of having as +little luggage as possible, so as not to excite the cupidity of those +through whose country we intended to pass. + +Vast shoals of fish come down the Leeambye with the rising waters, as +we observed they also do in the Zouga. They are probably induced to make +this migration by the increased rapidity of the current dislodging them +from their old pasture-grounds higher up the river. Insects constitute +but a small portion of the food of many fish. Fine vegetable matter, +like slender mosses, growing on the bottom, is devoured greedily; and +as the fishes are dislodged from the main stream by the force of the +current, and find abundant pasture on the flooded plains, the whole +community becomes disturbed and wanders. + +The mosala ('Clarias Capensis' and 'Glanis siluris'), the mullet ('Mugil +Africanus'), and other fishes, spread over the Barotse valley in such +numbers that when the waters retire all the people are employed in +cutting them up and drying them in the sun. The supply exceeds the +demand, and the land in numerous places is said to emit a most offensive +smell. Wherever you see the Zambesi in the centre of the country, it is +remarkable for the abundance of animal life in and upon its waters, and +on the adjacent banks. + +We passed great numbers of hippopotami. They are very numerous in the +parts of the river where they are never hunted. The males appear of a +dark color, the females of yellowish brown. There is not such a complete +separation of the sexes among them as among elephants. They spend most +of their time in the water, lolling about in a listless, dreamy manner. +When they come out of the river by night, they crop off the soft +succulent grasses very neatly. When they blow, they puff up the water +about three feet high. + + + + +Chapter 15. + +Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives-- +Navigation of the Leeambye--Capabilities of this District--The +Leeba--Flowers and Bees--Buffalo-hunt--Field for a Botanist--Young +Alligators; their savage Nature--Suspicion of the Balonda--Sekelenke's +Present--A Man and his two Wives--Hunters--Message from Manenko, +a female Chief--Mambari Traders--A Dream--Sheakondo and his +People--Teeth-filing--Desire for Butter--Interview with Nyamoana, +another female Chief--Court Etiquette--Hair versus Wool--Increase of +Superstition--Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and Husband--Mode +of Salutation--Anklets--Embassy, with a Present from Masiko--Roast +Beef--Manioc--Magic Lantern--Manenko an accomplished Scold: compels us +to wait--Unsuccessful Zebra-hunt. + + + +On the 27th of December we were at the confluence of the Leeba and +Leeambye (lat. 14d 10' 52" S., long. 23d 35' 40" E.). Masiko, the +Barotse chief, for whom we had some captives, lived nearly due east of +this point. They were two little boys, a little girl, a young man, and +two middle-aged women. One of these was a member of a Babimpe tribe, who +knock out both upper and lower front teeth as a distinction. As we had +been informed by the captives on the previous Sunday that Masiko was in +the habit of seizing all orphans, and those who have no powerful friend +in the tribe whose protection they can claim, and selling them for +clothing to the Mambari, we thought the objection of the women to go +first to his town before seeing their friends quite reasonable, and +resolved to send a party of our own people to see them safely among +their relatives. I told the captive young man to inform Masiko that he +was very unlike his father Santuru, who had refused to sell his people +to Mambari. He will probably be afraid to deliver such a message +himself, but it is meant for his people, and they will circulate it +pretty widely, and Masiko may yet feel a little pressure from without. +We sent Mosantu, a Batoka man, and his companions, with the captives. +The Barotse whom we had were unwilling to go to Masiko, since they owe +him allegiance as the son of Santuru, and while they continue with the +Makololo are considered rebels. The message by Mosantu was, that "I was +sorry to find that Santuru had not borne a wiser son. Santuru loved to +govern men, but Masiko wanted to govern wild beasts only, as he sold +his people to the Mambari;" adding an explanation of the return of the +captives, and an injunction to him to live in peace, and prevent +his people kidnapping the children and canoes of the Makololo, as a +continuance in these deeds would lead to war, which I wished to prevent. +He was also instructed to say, if Masiko wanted fuller explanation of my +views, he must send a sensible man to talk with me at the first town of +the Balonda, to which I was about to proceed. + +We ferried Mosantu over to the left bank of the Leeba. The journey +required five days, but it could not have been at a quicker rate than +ten or twelve miles per day; the children were between seven and eight +years of age, and unable to walk fast in a hot sun. + +Leaving Mosantu to pursue his course, we shall take but one glance down +the river, which we are now about to leave, for it comes at this point +from the eastward, and our course is to be directed to the northwest, +as we mean to go to Loanda in Angola. From the confluence, where we now +are, down to Mosioatunya, there are many long reaches, where a vessel +equal to the Thames steamers plying between the bridges could run as +freely as they do on the Thames. It is often, even here, as broad as +that river at London Bridge, but, without accurate measurement of the +depth, one could not say which contained most water. There are, however, +many and serious obstacles to a continued navigation for hundreds of +miles at a stretch. About ten miles below the confluence of the Loeti, +for instance, there are many large sand-banks in the stream; then you +have a hundred miles to the River Simah, where a Thames steamer could +ply at all times of the year; but, again, the space between Simah and +Katima-molelo has five or six rapids with cataracts, one of which, +Gonye, could not be passed at any time without portage. Between these +rapids there are reaches of still, deep water, of several miles in +length. Beyond Katima-molelo to the confluence of the Chobe you have +nearly a hundred miles again, of a river capable of being navigated in +the same way as in the Barotse valley. + +Now I do not say that this part of the river presents a very inviting +prospect for extemporaneous European enterprise; but when we have a +pathway which requires only the formation of portages to make it equal +to our canals for hundreds of miles, where the philosophers supposed +there was naught but an extensive sandy desert, we must confess that +the future partakes at least of the elements of hope. My deliberate +conviction was and is that the part of the country indicated is as +capable of supporting millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands. +The grass of the Barotse valley, for instance, is such a densely-matted +mass that, when "laid", the stalks bear each other up, so that one feels +as if walking on the sheaves of a hay-stack, and the leches nestle under +it to bring forth their young. The soil which produces this, if placed +under the plow, instead of being mere pasturage, would yield grain +sufficient to feed vast multitudes. + +We now began to ascend the Leeba. The water is black in color as +compared with the main stream, which here assumes the name of Kabompo. +The Leeba flows placidly, and, unlike the parent river, receives numbers +of little rivulets from both sides. It winds slowly through the most +charming meadows, each of which has either a soft, sedgy centre, large +pond, or trickling rill down the middle. The trees are now covered with +a profusion of the freshest foliage, and seem planted in groups of such +pleasant, graceful outline that art could give no additional charm. The +grass, which had been burned off and was growing again after the +rains, was short and green, and all the scenery so like that of a +carefully-tended gentleman's park, that one is scarcely reminded that +the surrounding region is in the hands of simple nature alone. I suspect +that the level meadows are inundated annually, for the spots on which +the trees stand are elevated three or four feet above them, and these +elevations, being of different shapes, give the strange variety of +outline of the park-like woods. Numbers of a fresh-water shell are +scattered all over these valleys. The elevations, as I have observed +elsewhere, are of a soft, sandy soil, and the meadows of black, rich +alluvial loam. There are many beautiful flowers, and many bees to sip +their nectar. We found plenty of honey in the woods, and saw the stages +on which the Balonda dry their meat, when they come down to hunt and +gather the produce of the wild hives. In one part we came upon groups of +lofty trees as straight as masts, with festoons of orchilla-weed hanging +from the branches. This, which is used as a dye-stuff, is found nowhere +in the dry country to the south. It prefers the humid climate near the +west coast. + +A large buffalo was wounded, and ran into the thickest part of the +forest, bleeding profusely. The young men went on his trail; and, though +the vegetation was so dense that no one could have run more than a few +yards, most of them went along quite carelessly, picking and eating +a fruit of the melon family called Mponko. When the animal heard them +approach he always fled, shifting his stand and doubling on his course +in the most cunning manner. In other cases I have known them to turn +back to a point a few yards from their own trail, and then lie down in +a hollow waiting for the hunter to come up. Though a heavy, +lumbering-looking animal, his charge is then rapid and terrific. More +accidents happen by the buffalo and the black rhinoceros than by the +lion. Though all are aware of the mischievous nature of the buffalo when +wounded, our young men went after him quite carelessly. They never lose +their presence of mind, but, as a buffalo charges back in a forest, dart +dexterously out of his way behind a tree, and, wheeling round, stab him +as he passes. + +A tree in flower brought the pleasant fragrance of hawthorn hedges back +to memory; its leaves, flowers, perfumes, and fruit resembled those +of the hawthorn, only the flowers were as large as dog-roses, and the +"haws" like boys' marbles. Here the flowers smell sweetly, while few +in the south emit any scent at all, or only a nauseous odor. A botanist +would find a rich harvest on the banks of the Leeba. This would be his +best season, for the flowers all run rapidly to seed, and then insects +of every shape spring into existence to devour them. The climbing plants +display great vigor of growth, being not only thick in the trunk, but +also at the very point, in the manner of quickly-growing asparagus. The +maroro or malolo now appears, and is abundant in many parts between +this and Angola. It is a small bush with a yellow fruit, and in its +appearance a dwarf "anona". The taste is sweet, and the fruit is +wholesome: it is full of seeds, like the custard-apple. + +On the 28th we slept at a spot on the right bank from which had just +emerged two broods of alligators. We had seen many young ones as we came +up, so this seems to be their time of coming forth from the nests, for +we saw them sunning themselves on sand-banks in company with the old +ones. We made our fire in one of the deserted nests, which were strewed +all over with the broken shells. At the Zouga we saw sixty eggs taken +out of one such nest alone. They are about the size of those of a goose, +only the eggs of the alligator are of the same diameter at both ends, +and the white shell is partially elastic, from having a strong internal +membrane and but little lime in its composition. The distance from the +water was about ten feet, and there were evidences of the same place +having been used for a similar purpose in former years. A broad path +led up from the water to the nest, and the dam, it was said by my +companions, after depositing the eggs, covers them up, and returns +afterward to assist the young out of the place of confinement and out of +the egg. She leads them to the edge of the water, and then leaves them +to catch small fish for themselves. Assistance to come forth seems +necessary, for here, besides the tough membrane of the shell, they had +four inches of earth upon them; but they do not require immediate aid +for food, because they all retain a portion of yolk, equal to that of a +hen's egg, in a membrane in the abdomen, as a stock of nutriment, while +only beginning independent existence by catching fish. Fish is the +principal food of both small and large, and they are much assisted +in catching them by their broad, scaly tails. Sometimes an alligator, +viewing a man in the water from the opposite bank, rushes across the +stream with wonderful agility, as is seen by the high ripple he makes +on the surface caused by his rapid motion at the bottom; but in general +they act by stealth, sinking underneath as soon as they see man. They +seldom leave the water to catch prey, but often come out by day to enjoy +the pleasure of basking in the sun. In walking along the bank of the +Zouga once, a small one, about three feet long, made a dash at my feet, +and caused me to rush quickly in another direction; but this is unusual, +for I never heard of a similar case. A wounded leche, chased into any +of the lagoons in the Barotse valley, or a man or dog going in for the +purpose of bringing out a dead one, is almost sure to be seized, though +the alligators may not appear on the surface. When employed in looking +for food they keep out of sight; they fish chiefly by night. When +eating, they make a loud, champing noise, which when once heard is never +forgotten. + +The young, which had come out of the nests where we spent the night, did +not appear wary; they were about ten inches long, with yellow eyes, and +pupil merely a perpendicular slit. They were all marked with transverse +slips of pale green and brown, half an inch broad. When speared, +they bit the weapon savagely, though their teeth were but partially +developed, uttering at the same time a sharp bark like that of a whelp +when it first begins to use its voice. I could not ascertain whether +the dam devours them, as reported, or whether the ichneumon has the same +reputation here as in Egypt. Probably the Barotse and Bayeiye would not +look upon it as a benefactor; they prefer to eat the eggs themselves, +and be their own ichneumons. The white of the egg does not coagulate, +but the yolk does, and this is the only part eaten. + +As the population increases, the alligators will decrease, for their +nests will be oftener found; the principal check on their inordinate +multiplication seems to be man. They are more savage and commit more +mischief in the Leeambye than in any other river. After dancing long in +the moonlight nights, young men run down to the water to wash off the +dust and cool themselves before going to bed, and are thus often carried +away. One wonders they are not afraid; but the fact is, they have as +little sense of danger impending over them as the hare has when not +actually pursued by the hound, and in many rencounters, in which +they escape, they had not time to be afraid, and only laugh at the +circumstance afterward: there is a want of calm reflection. In many +cases, not referred to in this book, I feel more horror now in thinking +on dangers I have run than I did at the time of their occurrence. + +When we reached the part of the river opposite to the village of +Manenko, the first female chief whom we encountered, two of the people +called Balunda, or Balonda, came to us in their little canoe. From them +we learned that Kolimbota, one of our party, who had been in the habit +of visiting these parts, was believed by the Balonda to have acted as +a guide to the marauders under Lerimo, whose captives we were now +returning. They very naturally suspected this, from the facility with +which their villages had been found, and, as they had since removed them +to some distance from the river, they were unwilling to lead us to their +places of concealment. We were in bad repute, but, having a captive +boy and girl to show in evidence of Sekeletu and ourselves not being +partakers in the guilt of inferior men, I could freely express my desire +that all should live in peace. They evidently felt that I ought to have +taught the Makololo first, before coming to them, for they remarked that +what I advanced was very good, but guilt lay at the door of the Makololo +for disturbing the previously existing peace. They then went away to +report us to Manenko. + +When the strangers visited us again in the evening, they were +accompanied by a number of the people of an Ambonda chief named +Sekelenke. The Ambonda live far to the N.W.; their language, the Bonda, +is the common dialect in Angola. Sekelenke had fled, and was now living +with his village as a vassal of Masiko. As notices of such men will +perhaps convey the best idea of the state of the inhabitants to the +reader, I shall hereafter allude to the conduct of Sekelenke, whom I at +present only introduce. Sekelenke had gone with his villagers to hunt +elephants on the right bank of the Leeba, and was now on his way back to +Masiko. He sent me a dish of boiled zebra's flesh, and a request that I +should lend him a canoe to ferry his wives and family across the river +to the bank on which we were encamped. Many of Sekelenke's people came +to salute the first white man they ever had an opportunity of seeing; +but Sekelenke himself did not come near. We heard he was offended with +some of his people for letting me know he was among the company. He +said that I should be displeased with him for not coming and making +some present. This was the only instance in which I was shunned in this +quarter. + +As it would have been impolitic to pass Manenko, or any chief, without +at least showing so much respect as to call and explain the objects +of our passing through the country, we waited two entire days for the +return of the messengers to Manenko; and as I could not hurry matters, I +went into the adjacent country to search for meat for the camp. + +The country is furnished largely with forest, having occasionally open +lawns covered with grass, not in tufts as in the south, but so closely +planted that one can not see the soil. We came upon a man and his two +wives and children, burning coarse rushes and the stalks of tsitla, +growing in a brackish marsh, in order to extract a kind of salt from the +ashes. They make a funnel of branches of trees, and line it with grass +rope, twisted round until it is, as it were, a beehive-roof inverted. +The ashes are put into water, in a calabash, and then it is allowed to +percolate through the small hole in the bottom and through the grass. +When this water is evaporated in the sun, it yields sufficient salt to +form a relish with food. The women and children fled with precipitation, +but we sat down at a distance, and allowed the man time to gain courage +enough to speak. He, however, trembled excessively at the apparition +before him; but when we explained that our object was to hunt game, and +not men, he became calm, and called back his wives. We soon afterward +came to another party on the same errand with ourselves. The man had a +bow about six feet long, and iron-headed arrows about thirty inches in +length; he had also wooden arrows neatly barbed, to shoot in cases +where he might not be quite certain of recovering them again. We soon +afterward got a zebra, and gave our hunting acquaintances such a liberal +share that we soon became friends. All whom we saw that day then came +with us to the encampment to beg a little meat; and as they have so +little salt, I have no doubt they felt grateful for what we gave. + +Sekelenke and his people, twenty-four in number, defiled past our camp +carrying large bundles of dried elephants' meat. Most of them came to +say good-by, and Sekelenke himself sent to say that he had gone to visit +a wife living in the village of Manenko. It was a mere African manoeuvre +to gain information, and not commit himself to either one line of action +or another with respect to our visit. As he was probably in the party +before us, I replied that it was all right, and when my people came up +from Masiko I would go to my wife too. Another zebra came to our camp, +and, as we had friends near, it was shot. It was the 'Equus montanus', +though the country is perfectly flat, and was finely marked down to the +feet, as all the zebras are in these parts. + +To our first message, offering a visit of explanation to Manenko, we got +an answer, with a basket of manioc roots, that we must remain where we +were till she should visit us. Having waited two days already for her, +other messengers arrived with orders for me to come to her. After four +days of rains and negotiation, I declined going at all, and proceeded +up the river to the small stream Makondo (lat. 13d 23' 12" S.), which +enters the Leeba from the east, and is between twenty and thirty yards +broad. + +JANUARY 1ST, 1854. We had heavy rains almost every day; indeed, the +rainy season had fairly set in. Baskets of the purple fruit called mawa +were frequently brought to us by the villagers; not for sale, but from a +belief that their chiefs would be pleased to hear that they had treated +us well; we gave them pieces of meat in return. + +When crossing at the confluence of the Leeba and Makondo, one of my men +picked up a bit of a steel watch-chain of English manufacture, and we +were informed that this was the spot where the Mambari cross in +coming to Masiko. Their visits explain why Sekelenke kept his tusks so +carefully. These Mambari are very enterprising merchants: when they mean +to trade with a town, they deliberately begin the affair by building +huts, as if they knew that little business could be transacted without a +liberal allowance of time for palaver. They bring Manchester goods into +the heart of Africa; these cotton prints look so wonderful that the +Makololo could not believe them to be the work of mortal hands. On +questioning the Mambari they were answered that English manufactures +came out of the sea, and beads were gathered on its shore. To Africans +our cotton mills are fairy dreams. "How can the irons spin, weave, and +print so beautifully?" Our country is like what Taprobane was to our +ancestors--a strange realm of light, whence came the diamond, muslin, +and peacocks; an attempt at explanation of our manufactures usually +elicits the expression, "Truly ye are gods!" + +When about to leave the Makondo, one of my men had dreamed that Mosantu +was shut up a prisoner in a stockade: this dream depressed the spirits +of the whole party, and when I came out of my little tent in the +morning, they were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow. I asked if +we were to be guided by dreams, or by the authority I derived from +Sekeletu, and ordered them to load the boats at once; they seemed +ashamed to confess their fears; the Makololo picked up courage and +upbraided the others for having such superstitious views, and said this +was always their way; if even a certain bird called to them, they would +turn back from an enterprise, saying it was unlucky. They entered the +canoes at last, and were the better of a little scolding for being +inclined to put dreams before authority. It rained all the morning, +but about eleven we reached the village of Sheakondo, on a small stream +named Lonkonye. We sent a message to the head man, who soon appeared +with two wives, bearing handsome presents of manioc: Sheakondo could +speak the language of the Barotse well, and seemed awestruck when told +some of the "words of God". He manifested no fear, always spoke frankly, +and when he made an asseveration, did so by simply pointing up to the +sky above him. The Balonda cultivate the manioc or cassava extensively; +also dura, ground-nuts, beans, maize, sweet potatoes, and yams, here +called "lekoto", but as yet we see only the outlying villages. + +The people who came with Sheakondo to our bivouac had their teeth filed +to a point by way of beautifying them, though those which were left +untouched were always the whitest; they are generally tattooed in +various parts, but chiefly on the abdomen: the skin is raised in small +elevated cicatrices, each nearly half an inch long and a quarter of an +inch in diameter, so that a number of them may constitute a star, or +other device. The dark color of the skin prevents any coloring matter +being deposited in these figures, but they love much to have the whole +surface of their bodies anointed with a comfortable varnish of oil. In +their unassisted state they depend on supplies of oil from the Palma +Christi, or castor-oil plant, or from various other oliferous seeds, but +they are all excessively fond of clarified butter or ox fat. Sheakondo's +old wife presented some manioc roots, and then politely requested to +be anointed with butter: as I had been bountifully supplied by the +Makololo, I gave her as much as would suffice, and as they have little +clothing, I can readily believe that she felt her comfort greatly +enhanced thereby. + +The favorite wife, who was also present, was equally anxious for butter. +She had a profusion of iron rings on her ankles, to which were attached +little pieces of sheet iron, to enable her to make a tinkling as she +walked in her mincing African style; the same thing is thought pretty by +our own dragoons in walking jauntingly. + +We had so much rain and cloud that I could not get a single observation +for either longitude or latitude for a fortnight. Yet the Leeba does +not show any great rise, nor is the water in the least discolored. It +is slightly black, from the number of mossy rills which fall into it. It +has remarkably few birds and fish, while the Leeambye swarms with both. +It is noticeable that alligators here possess more of the fear of man +than in the Leeambye. The Balonda have taught them, by their poisoned +arrows, to keep out of sight. We did not see one basking in the sun. The +Balonda set so many little traps for birds that few appear. I observed, +however, many (to me) new small birds of song on its banks. More rain +has been falling in the east than here, for the Leeambye was rising fast +and working against the sandy banks so vigorously that a slight yellow +tinge was perceptible in it. + +One of our men was bitten by a non-venomous serpent, and of course felt +no harm. The Barotse concluded that this was owing to many of them being +present and seeing it, as if the sight of human eyes could dissolve the +poison and act as a charm. + +On the 6th of January we reached the village of another female chief, +named Nyamoana, who is said to be the mother of Manenko, and sister +of Shinte or Kabompo, the greatest Balonda chief in this part of the +country. Her people had but recently come to the present locality, and +had erected only twenty huts. Her husband, Samoana, was clothed in a +kilt of green and red baize, and was armed with a spear and a broadsword +of antique form, about eighteen inches long and three broad. The chief +and her husband were sitting on skins placed in the middle of a circle +thirty paces in diameter, a little raised above the ordinary level of +the ground, and having a trench round it. Outside the trench sat about a +hundred persons of all ages and both sexes. The men were well armed with +bows, arrows, spears, and broadswords. Beside the husband sat a rather +aged woman, having a bad outward squint in the left eye. We put down +our arms about forty yards off, and I walked up to the centre of the +circular bench, and saluted him in the usual way by clapping the hands +together in their fashion. He pointed to his wife, as much as to say, +the honor belongs to her. I saluted her in the same way, and a mat +having been brought, I squatted down in front of them. + +The talker was then called, and I was asked who was my spokesman. Having +pointed to Kolimbota, who knew their dialect best, the palaver began +in due form. I explained the real objects I had in view, without any +attempt to mystify or appear in any other character than my own, for +I have always been satisfied that, even though there were no other +considerations, the truthful way of dealing with the uncivilized is +unquestionably the best. Kolimbota repeated to Nyamoana's talker what +I had said to him. He delivered it all verbatim to her husband, who +repeated it again to her. It was thus all rehearsed four times over, +in a tone loud enough to be heard by the whole party of auditors. The +response came back by the same roundabout route, beginning at the lady +to her husband, etc. + +After explanations and re-explanations, I perceived that our new friends +were mixing up my message of peace and friendship with Makololo affairs, +and stated that it was not delivered on the authority of any one less +than that of their Creator, and that if the Makololo did again break His +laws and attack the Balonda, the guilt would rest with the Makololo and +not with me. The palaver then came to a close. + +By way of gaining their confidence, I showed them my hair, which is +considered a curiosity in all this region. They said, "Is that hair? +It is the mane of a lion, and not hair at all." Some thought that I +had made a wig of lion's mane, as they sometimes do with fibres of the +"ife", and dye it black, and twist it so as to resemble a mass of their +own wool. I could not return the joke by telling them that theirs was +not hair, but the wool of sheep, for they have none of these in the +country; and even though they had, as Herodotus remarked, "the African +sheep are clothed with hair, and men's heads with wool." So I had to +be content with asserting that mine was the real original hair, such as +theirs would have been had it not been scorched and frizzled by the sun. +In proof of what the sun could do, I compared my own bronzed face +and hands, then about the same in complexion as the lighter-colored +Makololo, with the white skin of my chest. They readily believed that, +as they go nearly naked and fully exposed to that influence, we might be +of common origin after all. Here, as every where, when heat and moisture +are combined, the people are very dark, but not quite black. There is +always a shade of brown in the most deeply colored. I showed my watch +and pocket compass, which are considered great curiosities; but, +though the lady was called on by her husband to look, she would not be +persuaded to approach near enough. + +These people are more superstitious than any we had yet encountered; +though still only building their village, they had found time to erect +two little sheds at the chief dwelling in it, in which were placed two +pots having charms in them. When asked what medicine they contained, +they replied, "Medicine for the Barimo;" but when I rose and looked into +them, they said they were medicine for the game. Here we saw the first +evidence of the existence of idolatry in the remains of an old idol at a +deserted village. It was simply a human head carved on a block of wood. +Certain charms mixed with red ochre and white pipe-clay are dotted over +them when they are in use; and a crooked stick is used in the same way +for an idol when they have no professional carver. + +As the Leeba seemed still to come from the direction in which we wished +to go, I was desirous of proceeding farther up with the canoes; but +Nyamoana was anxious that we should allow her people to conduct us +to her brother Shinte; and when I explained the advantage of +water-carriage, she represented that her brother did not live near the +river, and, moreover, there was a cataract in front, over which it +would be difficult to convey the canoes. She was afraid, too, that the +Balobale, whose country lies to the west of the river, not knowing the +objects for which we had come, would kill us. To my reply that I had +been so often threatened with death if I visited a new tribe that I was +now more afraid of killing any one than of being killed, she rejoined +that the Balobale would not kill me, but the Makololo would all be +sacrificed as their enemies. This produced considerable effect on my +companions, and inclined them to the plan of Nyamoana, of going to the +town of her brother rather than ascending the Leeba. The arrival of +Manenko herself on the scene threw so much weight into the scale on +their side that I was forced to yield the point. + +Manenko was a tall, strapping woman about twenty, distinguished by a +profusion of ornaments and medicines hung round her person; the latter +are supposed to act as charms. Her body was smeared all over with a +mixture of fat and red ochre, as a protection against the weather; a +necessary precaution, for, like most of the Balonda ladies, she was +otherwise in a state of frightful nudity. This was not from want of +clothing, for, being a chief, she might have been as well clad as any of +her subjects, but from her peculiar ideas of elegance in dress. When she +arrived with her husband, Sambanza, they listened for some time to +the statements I was making to the people of Nyamoana, after which the +husband, acting as spokesman, commenced an oration, stating the +reasons for their coming, and, during every two or three seconds of the +delivery, he picked up a little sand, and rubbed it on the upper part +of his arms and chest. This is a common mode of salutation in Londa; and +when they wish to be excessively polite, they bring a quantity of ashes +or pipe-clay in a piece of skin, and, taking up handfuls, rub it on the +chest and upper front part of each arm; others, in saluting, drum their +ribs with their elbows; while others still touch the ground with one +cheek after the other, and clap their hands. The chiefs go through the +manoeuvre of rubbing the sand on the arms, but only make a feint at +picking up some. When Sambanza had finished his oration, he rose up, +and showed his ankles ornamented with a bundle of copper rings; had they +been very heavy, they would have made him adopt a straggling walk. Some +chiefs have really so many as to be forced, by the weight and size, +to keep one foot apart from the other, the weight being a serious +inconvenience in walking. The gentlemen like Sambanza, who wish to +imitate their betters, do so in their walk; so you see men, with only +a few ounces of ornament on their legs, strutting along as if they +had double the number of pounds. When I smiled at Sambanza's walk, the +people remarked, "That is the way in which they show off their lordship +in these parts." + +Manenko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy of friendship +with the Makololo which we recommended; and, by way of cementing the +bond, she and her counselors proposed that Kolimbota should take a wife +among them. By this expedient she hoped to secure his friendship, and +also accurate information as to the future intentions of the Makololo. +She thought that he would visit the Balonda more frequently afterward, +having the good excuse of going to see his wife; and the Makololo would +never, of course, kill the villagers among whom so near a relative of +one of their own children dwells. Kolimbota, I found, thought favorably +of the proposition, and it afterward led to his desertion from us. + +On the evening of the day in which Manenko arrived, we were delighted +by the appearance of Mosantu and an imposing embassy from Masiko. It +consisted of all his under-chiefs, and they brought a fine elephant's +tusk, two calabashes of honey, and a large piece of blue baize, as a +present. The last was intended perhaps to show me that he was a truly +great chief, who had such stores of white men's goods at hand that he +could afford to give presents of them; it might also be intended for +Mosantu, for chiefs usually remember the servants; I gave it to him. +Masiko expressed delight, by his principal men, at the return of the +captives, and at the proposal of peace and alliance with the Makololo. +He stated that he never sold any of his own people to the Mambari, but +only captives whom his people kidnapped from small neighboring tribes. +When the question was put whether his people had been in the habit of +molesting the Makololo by kidnapping their servants and stealing canoes, +it was admitted that two of his men, when hunting, had gone to the +Makololo gardens, to see if any of their relatives were there. As the +great object in all native disputes is to get both parties to turn over +a new leaf, I explained the desirableness of forgetting past feuds, +accepting the present Makololo professions as genuine, and avoiding in +future to give them any cause for marauding. I presented Masiko with an +ox, furnished by Sekeletu as provision for ourselves. All these people +are excessively fond of beef and butter, from having been accustomed to +them in their youth, before the Makololo deprived them of cattle. They +have abundance of game, but I am quite of their opinion that, after all, +there is naught in the world equal to roast beef, and that in their +love for it the English show both good taste and sound sense. The ox was +intended for Masiko, but his men were very anxious to get my sanction +for slaughtering it on the spot. I replied that when it went out of +my hands I had no more to do with it. They, however, wished the +responsibility of slaughtering it to rest with me; if I had said they +might kill it, not many ounces would have remained in the morning. I +would have given permission, but had nothing else to offer in return for +Masiko's generosity. + +We were now without any provisions except a small dole of manioc roots +each evening from Nyamoana, which, when eaten raw, produce poisonous +effects. A small loaf, made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal +from Libonta, was my stock, and our friends from Masiko were still more +destitute; yet we all rejoiced so much at their arrival that we resolved +to spend a day with them. The Barotse of our party, meeting with +relatives and friends among the Barotse of Masiko, had many old tales to +tell; and, after pleasant hungry converse by day, we regaled our friends +with the magic lantern by night, and, in order to make the thing of use +to all, we removed our camp up to the village of Nyamoana. This is a +good means of arresting the attention, and conveying important facts to +the minds of these people. + +When erecting our sheds at the village, Manenko fell upon our friends +from Masiko in a way that left no doubt on our minds but that she is +a most accomplished scold. Masiko had, on a former occasion, sent to +Samoana for a cloth, a common way of keeping up intercourse, and, after +receiving it, sent it back, because it had the appearance of having had +"witchcraft medicine" on it; this was a grave offense, and now Manenko +had a good excuse for venting her spleen, the embassadors having called +at her village, and slept in one of the huts without leave. If her +family was to be suspected of dealing in evil charms, why were Masiko's +people not to be thought guilty of leaving the same in her hut? She +advanced and receded in true oratorical style, belaboring her own +servants as well for allowing the offense, and, as usual in more +civilized feminine lectures, she leaned over the objects of her ire, and +screamed forth all their faults and failings ever since they were born, +and her despair of ever seeing them become better, until they were all +"killed by alligators". Masiko's people followed the plan of receiving +this torrent of abuse in silence, and, as neither we nor they had any +thing to eat, we parted next morning. In reference to Masiko selling +slaves to the Mambari, they promised to explain the relationship which +exists between even the most abject of his people and our common Father; +and that no more kidnapping ought to be allowed, as he ought to give +that peace and security to the smaller tribes on his eastern borders +which he so much desired to obtain himself from the Makololo. We +promised to return through his town when we came back from the +sea-coast. + +Manenko gave us some manioc roots in the morning, and had determined +to carry our baggage to her uncle's, Kabompo or Shinte. We had heard a +sample of what she could do with her tongue; and as neither my men nor +myself had much inclination to encounter a scolding from this black Mrs. +Caudle, we made ready the packages; but she came and said the men whom +she had ordered for the service had not yet come; they would arrive +to-morrow. Being on low and disagreeable diet, I felt annoyed at this +further delay, and ordered the packages to be put into the canoes to +proceed up the river without her servants; but Manenko was not to be +circumvented in this way; she came forward with her people, and said her +uncle would be angry if she did not carry forward the tusks and goods +of Sekeletu, seized the luggage, and declared that she would carry it in +spite of me. My men succumbed sooner to this petticoat government than +I felt inclined to do, and left me no power; and, being unwilling to +encounter her tongue, I was moving off to the canoes, when she gave me +a kind explanation, and, with her hand on my shoulder, put on a motherly +look, saying, "Now, my little man, just do as the rest have done." My +feelings of annoyance of course vanished, and I went out to try and get +some meat. + +The only game to be found in these parts are the ZEBRA, the KUALATA or +tahetsi ('Aigoceros equina'), kama ('Bubalus caama'), buffaloes, and the +small antelope hakitenwe ('Philantomba'). + +The animals can be seen here only by following on their trail for many +miles. Urged on by hunger, we followed that of some zebras during the +greater part of the day: when within fifty yards of them, in a dense +thicket, I made sure of one, but, to my infinite disgust, the gun missed +fire, and off they bounded. The climate is so very damp, from daily +heavy rains, that every thing becomes loaded with moisture, and the +powder in the gun-nipples can not be kept dry. It is curious to mark the +intelligence of the game; in districts where they are much annoyed by +fire-arms, they keep out on the most open spots of country they can +find, in order to have a widely-extended range of vision, and a man +armed is carefully shunned. From the frequency with which I have been +allowed to approach nearer without than with a gun, I believe they know +the difference between safety and danger in the two cases. But here, +where they are killed by the arrows of the Balonda, they select for +safety the densest forest, where the arrow can not be easily shot. +The variation in the selection of standing-spots during the day may, +however, be owing partly to the greater heat of the sun, for here it +is particularly sharp and penetrating. However accounted for, the wild +animals here do select the forests by day, while those farther south +generally shun these covers, and, on several occasions, I have observed +there was no sunshine to cause them to seek for shade. + + + + +Chapter 16. + +Nyamoana's Present--Charms--Manenko's pedestrian Powers--An Idol-- +Balonda Arms--Rain--Hunger--Palisades--Dense Forests--Artificial +Beehives--Mushrooms--Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses +--Divination and Idols--Manenko's Whims--A night Alarm--Shinte's +Messengers and Present--The proper Way to approach a Village--A +Merman--Enter Shinte's Town: its Appearance--Meet two half-caste +Slave-traders--The Makololo scorn them--The Balonda real Negroes--Grand +Reception from Shinte--His Kotla--Ceremony of Introduction--The +Orators--Women--Musicians and Musical Instruments--A disagreeable +Request--Private Interviews with Shinte--Give him an Ox--Fertility +of Soil--Manenko's new Hut--Conversation with Shinte--Kolimbota's +Proposal--Balonda's Punctiliousness--Selling Children--Kidnapping-- +Shinte's Offer of a Slave--Magic Lantern--Alarm of Women-- +Delay--Sambanza returns intoxicated--The last and greatest Proof of +Shinte's Friendship. + + + +11TH OF JANUARY, 1854. On starting this morning, Samoana (or rather +Nyamoana, for the ladies are the chiefs here) presented a string of +beads, and a shell highly valued among them, as an atonement for having +assisted Manenko, as they thought, to vex me the day before. They seemed +anxious to avert any evil which might arise from my displeasure; but +having replied that I never kept my anger up all night, they were much +pleased to see me satisfied. We had to cross, in a canoe, a stream which +flows past the village of Nyamoana. Manenko's doctor waved some charms +over her, and she took some in her hand and on her body before she +ventured upon the water. One of my men spoke rather loudly when near the +doctor's basket of medicines. The doctor reproved him, and always spoke +in a whisper himself, glancing back to the basket as if afraid of being +heard by something therein. So much superstition is quite unknown in the +south, and is mentioned here to show the difference in the feelings of +this new people, and the comparative want of reverence on these points +among Caffres and Bechuanas. + +Manenko was accompanied by her husband and her drummer; the latter +continued to thump most vigorously until a heavy, drizzling mist set in +and compelled him to desist. Her husband used various incantations and +vociferations to drive away the rain, but down it poured incessantly, +and on our Amazon went, in the very lightest marching order, and at a +pace that few of the men could keep up with. Being on ox-back, I kept +pretty close to our leader, and asked her why she did not clothe herself +during the rain, and learned that it is not considered proper for a +chief to appear effeminate. He or she must always wear the appearance +of robust youth, and bear vicissitudes without wincing. My men, in +admiration of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked, +"Manenko is a soldier;" and thoroughly wet and cold, we were all glad +when she proposed a halt to prepare our night's lodging on the banks of +a stream. + +The country through which we were passing was the same succession of +forest and open lawns as formerly mentioned: the trees were nearly all +evergreens, and of good, though not very gigantic size. The lawns were +covered with grass, which, in thickness of crop, looked like ordinary +English hay. We passed two small hamlets surrounded by gardens of maize +and manioc, and near each of these I observed, for the first time, +an ugly idol common in Londa--the figure of an animal, resembling an +alligator, made of clay. It is formed of grass, plastered over with +soft clay; two cowrie-shells are inserted as eyes, and numbers of the +bristles from the tail of an elephant are stuck in about the neck. It is +called a lion, though, if one were not told so, he would conclude it to +be an alligator. It stood in a shed, and the Balonda pray and beat drums +before it all night in cases of sickness. + +Some of the men of Manenko's train had shields made of reeds, neatly +woven into a square shape, about five feet long and three broad. With +these, and short broadswords and sheaves of iron-headed arrows, they +appeared rather ferocious. But the constant habit of wearing arms is +probably only a substitute for the courage they do not possess. We +always deposited our fire-arms and spears outside a village before +entering it, while the Balonda, on visiting us at our encampment, always +came fully armed, until we ordered them either to lay down their weapons +or be off. Next day we passed through a piece of forest so dense that no +one could have penetrated it without an axe. It was flooded, not by +the river, but by the heavy rains which poured down every day, and kept +those who had clothing constantly wet. I observed, in this piece of +forest, a very strong smell of sulphureted hydrogen. This I had +observed repeatedly in other parts before. I had attacks of fever of the +intermittent type again and again, in consequence of repeated drenchings +in these unhealthy spots. + +On the 11th and 12th we were detained by incessant rains, and so heavy +I never saw the like in the south. I had a little tapioca and a small +quantity of Libonta meal, which I still reserved for worse times. The +patience of my men under hunger was admirable; the actual want of the +present is never so painful as the thought of getting nothing in the +future. We thought the people of some large hamlets very niggardly and +very independent of their chiefs, for they gave us and Manenko nothing, +though they had large fields of maize in an eatable state around them. +When she went and kindly begged some for me, they gave her five ears +only. They were subjects of her uncle; and, had they been Makololo, +would have been lavish in their gifts to the niece of their chief. I +suspected that they were dependents of some of Shinte's principal men, +and had no power to part with the maize of their masters. + +Each house of these hamlets has a palisade of thick stakes around it, +and the door is made to resemble the rest of the stockade; the door is +never seen open; when the owner wishes to enter, he removes a stake or +two, squeezes his body in, then plants them again in their places, so +that an enemy coming in the night would find it difficult to discover +the entrance. These palisades seem to indicate a sense of insecurity +in regard to their fellow-men, for there are no wild beasts to disturb +them; the bows and arrows have been nearly as efficacious in clearing +the country here as guns have in the country farther south. This was a +disappointment to us, for we expected a continuance of the abundance of +game in the north which we found when we first came up to the confluence +of the Leeba and Leeambye. + +A species of the silver-tree of the Cape ('Leucodendron argenteum') is +found in abundance in the parts through which we have traveled since +leaving Samoana's. As it grows at a height of between two and three +thousand feet above the level of the sea, on the Cape Table Mountain, +and again on the northern slope of the Cashan Mountains, and here at +considerably greater heights (four thousand feet), the difference of +climate prevents the botanical range being considered as affording a +good approximation to the altitude. The rapid flow of the Leeambye, +which once seemed to me evidence of much elevation of the country +from which it comes, I now found, by the boiling point of water, was +fallacious.* + + * On examining this subject when I returned to Linyanti, I + found that, according to Dr. Arnott, a declivity of three + inches per mile gives a velocity in a smooth, straight channel + of three miles an hour. The general velocity of the Zambesi is + three miles and three quarters per hour, though in the rocky + parts it is sometimes as much as four and a half. If, + however, we make allowances for roughness of bottom, bendings + of channel, and sudden descents at cataracts, and say the + declivity is even seven inches per mile, those 800 miles + between the east coast and the great falls would require less + than 500 feet to give the observed velocity, and the + additional distance to this point would require but 150 feet + of altitude more. If my observation of this altitude may be + depended on, we have a steeper declivity for the Zambesi than + for some other great rivers. The Ganges, for instance, is + said to be at 1800 miles from its mouth only 800 feet above + the level of the sea, and water requires a month to come that + distance. But there are so many modifying circumstances, it is + difficult to draw any reliable conclusion from the currents. + The Chobe is sometimes heard of as flooded, about 40 miles + above Linyanti, a fortnight before the inundation reaches that + point, but it is very tortuous. The great river Magdalena + falls only 500 feet in a thousand miles; other rivers much + more. + +The forests became more dense as we went north. We traveled much more in +the deep gloom of the forest than in open sunlight. No passage existed +on either side of the narrow path made by the axe. Large climbing plants +entwined themselves around the trunks and branches of gigantic trees +like boa constrictors, and they often do constrict the trees by which +they rise, and, killing them, stand erect themselves. The bark of a +fine tree found in abundance here, and called "motuia", is used by +the Barotse for making fish-lines and nets, and the "molompi", so well +adapted for paddles by its lightness and flexibility, was abundant. +There were other trees quite new to my companions; many of them ran up +to a height of fifty feet of one thickness, and without branches. + +In these forests we first encountered the artificial beehives so +commonly met with all the way from this to Angola. They consist of about +five feet of the bark of a tree fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter. +Two incisions are made right round the tree at points five feet apart, +then one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other; the workman +next lifts up the bark on each side of this slit, and detaches it from +the trunk, taking care not to break it, until the whole comes from the +tree. The elasticity of the bark makes it assume the form it had before; +the slit is sewed or pegged up with wooden pins, and ends made of coiled +grass-rope are inserted, one of which has a hole for the ingress of the +bees in the centre, and the hive is complete. These hives are placed in +a horizontal position on high trees in different parts of the forest, +and in this way all the wax exported from Benguela and Loanda is +collected. It is all the produce of free labor. A "piece of medicine" +is tied round the trunk of the tree, and proves sufficient protection +against thieves. The natives seldom rob each other, for all believe +that certain medicines can inflict disease and death; and though they +consider that these are only known to a few, they act on the principle +that it is best to let them all alone. The gloom of these forests +strengthens the superstitious feelings of the people. In other quarters, +where they are not subjected to this influence, I have heard the chiefs +issue proclamations to the effect that real witchcraft medicines had +been placed at certain gardens from which produce had been stolen, the +thieves having risked the power of the ordinary charms previously placed +there. + +This being the rainy season, great quantities of mushrooms were met +with, and were eagerly devoured by my companions: the edible variety is +always found growing out of ant-hills, and attains the diameter of the +crown of a hat; they are quite white, and very good, even when eaten +raw; they occupy an extensive region of the interior; some, not edible, +are of a brilliant red, and others are of the same light blue as the +paper used by apothecaries to put up their medicines. + +There was a considerable pleasure, in spite of rain and fever, in this +new scenery. The deep gloom contrasted strongly with the shadeless glare +of the Kalahari, which had left an indelible impression on my memory. +Though drenched day by day at this time, and for months afterward, it +was long before I could believe that we were getting too much of a good +thing. Nor could I look at water being thrown away without a slight, +quick impression flitting across the mind that we were guilty of wasting +it. Every now and then we emerged from the deep gloom into a pretty +little valley, having a damp portion in the middle; which, though now +filled with water, at other times contains moisture enough for wells +only. These wells have shades put over them in the form of little huts. + +We crossed, in canoes, a little never-failing stream, which passes +by the name of Lefuje, or "the rapid". It comes from a goodly high +mountain, called Monakadzi (the woman), which gladdened our eyes as +it rose to our sight about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our +course. It is of an oblong shape, and seemed at least eight hundred feet +above the plains. The Lefuje probably derives its name from the rapid +descent of the short course it has to flow from Monakadzi to the Leeba. + +The number of little villages seemed about equal to the number of +valleys. At some we stopped and rested, the people becoming more liberal +as we advanced. Others we found deserted, a sudden panic having seized +the inhabitants, though the drum of Manenko was kept beaten pretty +constantly, in order to give notice of the approach of great people. +When we had decided to remain for the night at any village, the +inhabitants lent us the roofs of their huts, which in form resemble +those of the Makololo, or a Chinaman's hat, and can be taken off the +walls at pleasure. They lifted them off, and brought them to the spot we +had selected as our lodging, and, when my men had propped them up with +stakes, they were then safely housed for the night. Every one who comes +to salute either Manenko or ourselves rubs the upper parts of the arms +and chest with ashes; those who wish to show profounder reverence put +some also on the face. + +We found that every village had its idols near it. This is the case all +through the country of the Balonda, so that, when we came to an idol in +the woods, we always knew that we were within a quarter of an hour of +human habitations. One very ugly idol we passed rested on a horizontal +beam placed on two upright posts. This beam was furnished with two loops +of cord, as of a chain, to suspend offerings before it. On remarking to +my companions that these idols had ears, but that they heard not, +etc., I learned that the Balonda, and even the Barotse, believe that +divination may be performed by means of these blocks of wood and clay; +and though the wood itself could not hear, the owners had medicines by +which it could be made to hear and give responses, so that if an enemy +were approaching they would have full information. Manenko having +brought us to a stand on account of slight indisposition and a desire +to send forward notice of our approach to her uncle, I asked why it was +necessary to send forward information of our movements, if Shinte had +idols who could tell him every thing. "She did it only,"* was the reply. +It is seldom of much use to show one who worships idols the folly +of idolatry without giving something else as an object of adoration +instead. They do not love them. They fear them, and betake themselves to +their idols only when in perplexity and danger. + + * This is a curious African idiom, by which a person implies + he had no particular reason for his act. + +While delayed, by Manenko's management, among the Balonda villages, a +little to the south of the town of Shinte, we were well supplied by +the villagers with sweet potatoes and green maize; Sambanza went to his +mother's village for supplies of other food. I was laboring under fever, +and did not find it very difficult to exercise patience with her whims; +but it being Saturday, I thought we might as well go to the town for +Sunday (15th). "No; her messenger must return from her uncle first." +Being sure that the answer of the uncle would be favorable, I thought we +might go on at once, and not lose two days in the same spot. "No, it +is our custom;" and every thing else I could urge was answered in the +genuine pertinacious lady style. She ground some meal for me with her +own hands, and when she brought it told me she had actually gone to a +village and begged corn for the purpose. She said this with an air as if +the inference must be drawn by even a stupid white man: "I know how to +manage, don't I?" It was refreshing to get food which could be eaten +without producing the unpleasantness described by the Rev. John Newton, +of St. Mary's, Woolnoth, London, when obliged to eat the same roots +while a slave in the West Indies. The day (January 14th), for a wonder, +was fair, and the sun shone, so as to allow us to dry our clothing +and other goods, many of which were mouldy and rotten from the +long-continued damp. The guns rusted, in spite of being oiled every +evening. + +During the night we were all awakened by a terrific shriek from one of +Manenko's ladies. She piped out so loud and long that we all imagined +she had been seized by a lion, and my men snatched up their arms, which +they always place so as to be ready at a moment's notice, and ran to +the rescue; but we found the alarm had been caused by one of the oxen +thrusting his head into her hut and smelling her: she had put her hand +on his cold, wet nose, and thought it was all over with her. + +On Sunday afternoon messengers arrived from Shinte, expressing his +approbation of the objects we had in view in our journey through the +country, and that he was glad of the prospect of a way being opened by +which white men might visit him, and allow him to purchase ornaments at +pleasure. Manenko now threatened in sport to go on, and I soon afterward +perceived that what now seemed to me the dilly-dallying way of this lady +was the proper mode of making acquaintance with the Balonda; and much of +the favor with which I was received in different places was owing to +my sending forward messengers to state the object of our coming before +entering each town and village. When we came in sight of a village we +sat down under the shade of a tree and sent forward a man to give notice +who we were and what were our objects. The head man of the village then +sent out his principal men, as Shinte now did, to bid us welcome and +show us a tree under which we might sleep. Before I had profited by the +rather tedious teaching of Manenko, I sometimes entered a village and +created unintentional alarm. The villagers would continue to look upon +us with suspicion as long as we remained. Shinte sent us two large +baskets of manioc and six dried fishes. His men had the skin of a +monkey, called in their tongue "poluma" ('Colobus guereza'), of a jet +black color, except the long mane, which is pure white: it is said to be +found in the north, in the country of Matiamvo, the paramount chief +of all the Balonda. We learned from them that they are in the habit of +praying to their idols when unsuccessful in killing game or in any other +enterprise. They behaved with reverence at our religious services. This +will appear important if the reader remembers the almost total want of +prayer and reverence we encountered in the south. + +Our friends informed us that Shinte would be highly honored by the +presence of three white men in his town at once. Two others had sent +forward notice of their approach from another quarter (the west); could +it be Barth or Krapf? How pleasant to meet with Europeans in such an +out-of-the-way region! The rush of thoughts made me almost forget my +fever. Are they of the same color as I am? "Yes; exactly so." And have +the same hair? "Is that hair? we thought it was a wig; we never saw the +like before; this white man must be of the sort that lives in the sea." +Henceforth my men took the hint, and always sounded my praises as a true +specimen of the variety of white men who live in the sea. "Only look at +his hair; it is made quite straight by the sea-water!" + +I explained to them again and again that, when it was said we came out +of the sea, it did not mean that we came from beneath the water; but the +fiction has been widely spread in the interior by the Mambari that the +real white men live in the sea, and the myth was too good not to be +taken advantage of by my companions; so, notwithstanding my injunctions, +I believe that, when I was out of hearing, my men always represented +themselves as led by a genuine merman: "Just see his hair!" If I +returned from walking to a little distance, they would remark of some to +whom they had been holding forth, "These people want to see your hair." + +As the strangers had woolly hair like themselves, I had to give up the +idea of meeting any thing more European than two half-caste Portuguese, +engaged in trading for slaves, ivory, and bees'-wax. + +16TH. After a short march we came to a most lovely valley about a mile +and a half wide, and stretching away eastward up to a low prolongation +of Monakadzi. A small stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant +green glen; and on a little rill, which flows into it from the western +side, stands the town of Kabompo, or, as he likes best to be called, +Shinte. (Lat. 12d 37' 35" S., long. 22d 47' E.) When Manenko thought the +sun was high enough for us to make a lucky entrance, we found the town +embowered in banana and other tropical trees having great expansion of +leaf; the streets are straight, and present a complete contrast to those +of the Bechuanas, which are all very tortuous. Here, too, we first saw +native huts with square walls and round roofs. The fences or walls of +the courts which surround the huts are wonderfully straight, and made +of upright poles a few inches apart, with strong grass or leafy bushes +neatly woven between. In the courts were small plantations of tobacco, +and a little solanaceous plant which the Balonda use as a relish; also +sugar-cane and bananas. Many of the poles have grown again, and trees of +the 'Ficus Indica' family have been planted around, in order to give to +the inhabitants a grateful shade: they regard this tree with some sort +of veneration as a medicine or charm. Goats were browsing about, and, +when we made our appearance, a crowd of negroes, all fully armed, ran +toward us as if they would eat us up; some had guns, but the manner in +which they were held showed that the owners were more accustomed to bows +and arrows than to white men's weapons. After surrounding and staring at +us for an hour, they began to disperse. + +The two native Portuguese traders of whom we had heard had erected a +little encampment opposite the place where ours was about to be made. +One of them, whose spine had been injured in youth--a rare sight in this +country--came and visited us. I returned the visit next morning. His +tall companion had that sickly yellow hue which made him look fairer +than myself, but his head was covered with a crop of unmistakable wool. +They had a gang of young female slaves in a chain, hoeing the ground +in front of their encampment to clear it of weeds and grass; these were +purchased recently in Lobale, whence the traders had now come. There +were many Mambari with them, and the establishment was conducted +with that military order which pervades all the arrangements of the +Portuguese colonists. A drum was beaten and trumpet sounded at certain +hours, quite in military fashion. It was the first time most of my men +had seen slaves in chains. "They are not men," they exclaimed (meaning +they are beasts), "who treat their children so." + +The Balonda are real negroes, having much more wool on their heads and +bodies than any of the Bechuana or Caffre tribes. They are generally +very dark in color, but several are to be seen of a lighter hue; many of +the slaves who have been exported to Brazil have gone from this region; +but while they have a general similarity to the typical negro, I never +could, from my own observation, think that our ideal negro, as seen +in tobacconists' shops, is the true type. A large proportion of the +Balonda, indeed, have heads somewhat elongated backward and upward, +thick lips, flat noses, elongated 'ossa calces', etc., etc.; but there +are also many good-looking, well-shaped heads and persons among them. + +17TH, TUESDAY. We were honored with a grand reception by Shinte about +eleven o'clock. Sambanza claimed the honor of presenting us, Manenko +being slightly indisposed. The native Portuguese and Mambari went fully +armed with guns, in order to give Shinte a salute; their drummer and +trumpeter making all the noise that very old instruments would produce. +The kotla, or place of audience, was about a hundred yards square, and +two graceful specimens of a species of banian stood near one end; under +one of these sat Shinte, on a sort of throne covered with a leopard's +skin. He had on a checked jacket, and a kilt of scarlet baize edged with +green; many strings of large beads hung from his neck, and his limbs +were covered with iron and copper armlets and bracelets; on his head he +wore a helmet made of beads woven neatly together, and crowned with a +great bunch of goose-feathers. Close to him sat three lads with large +sheaves of arrows over their shoulders. + +When we entered the kotla, the whole of Manenko's party saluted Shinte +by clapping their hands, and Sambanza did obeisance by rubbing his chest +and arms with ashes. One of the trees being unoccupied, I retreated to +it for the sake of the shade, and my whole party did the same. We were +now about forty yards from the chief, and could see the whole ceremony. +The different sections of the tribe came forward in the same way that we +did, the head man of each making obeisance with ashes which he carried +with him for the purpose; then came the soldiers, all armed to the +teeth, running and shouting toward us, with their swords drawn, and +their faces screwed up so as to appear as savage as possible, for the +purpose, I thought, of trying whether they could not make us take to our +heels. As we did not, they turned round toward Shinte and saluted him, +then retired. When all had come and were seated, then began the curious +capering usually seen in pichos. A man starts up, and imitates the most +approved attitudes observed in actual fight, as throwing one javelin, +receiving another on the shield, springing to one side to avoid a third, +running backward or forward, leaping, etc. This over, Sambanza and the +spokesman of Nyamoana stalked backward and forward in front of Shinte, +and gave forth, in a loud voice, all they had been able to learn, +either from myself or people, of my past history and connection with the +Makololo; the return of the captives; the wish to open the country to +trade; the Bible as a word from heaven; the white man's desire for +the tribes to live in peace: he ought to have taught the Makololo that +first, for the Balonda never attacked them, yet they had assailed the +Balonda: perhaps he is fibbing, perhaps not; they rather thought he was; +but as the Balonda had good hearts, and Shinte had never done harm to +any one, he had better receive the white man well, and send him on his +way. Sambanza was gayly attired, and, besides a profusion of beads, had +a cloth so long that a boy carried it after him as a train. + +Behind Shinte sat about a hundred women, clothed in their best, which +happened to be a profusion of red baize. The chief wife of Shinte, one +of the Matebele or Zulus, sat in front with a curious red cap on her +head. During the intervals between the speeches, these ladies burst +forth into a sort of plaintive ditty; but it was impossible for any of +us to catch whether it was in praise of the speaker, of Shinte, or of +themselves. This was the first time I had ever seen females present in +a public assembly. In the south the women are not permitted to enter the +kotla; and even when invited to come to a religious service there, would +not enter until ordered to do so by the chief; but here they expressed +approbation by clapping their hands, and laughing to different speakers; +and Shinte frequently turned round and spoke to them. + +A party of musicians, consisting of three drummers and four performers +on the piano, went round the kotla several times, regaling us with their +music. Their drums are neatly carved from the trunk of a tree, and have +a small hole in the side covered with a bit of spider's web: the ends +are covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on; and when they +wish to tighten it, they hold it to the fire to make it contract: the +instruments are beaten with the hands. + +The piano, named "marimba", consists of two bars of wood placed side +by side, here quite straight, but, farther north, bent round so as to +resemble half the tire of a carriage-wheel; across these are placed +about fifteen wooden keys, each of which is two or three inches broad, +and fifteen or eighteen inches long; their thickness is regulated +according to the deepness of the note required: each of the keys has a +calabash beneath it; from the upper part of each a portion is cut off to +enable them to embrace the bars, and form hollow sounding-boards to the +keys, which also are of different sizes, according to the note required; +and little drumsticks elicit the music. Rapidity of execution seems much +admired among them, and the music is pleasant to the ear. In Angola the +Portuguese use the marimba in their dances. + +When nine speakers had concluded their orations, Shinte stood up, and so +did all the people. He had maintained true African dignity of manner all +the while, but my people remarked that he scarcely ever took his eyes +off me for a moment. About a thousand people were present, according to +my calculation, and three hundred soldiers. The sun had now become hot; +and the scene ended by the Mambari discharging their guns. + +18TH. We were awakened during the night by a message from Shinte, +requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hour. As I was just in the +sweating stage of an intermittent, and the path to the town lay through +a wet valley, I declined going. Kolimbota, who knows their customs best, +urged me to go; but, independent of sickness, I hated words of the night +and deeds of darkness. "I was neither a hyaena nor a witch." Kolimbota +thought that we ought to conform to their wishes in every thing: I +thought we ought to have some choice in the matter as well, which put +him into high dudgeon. However, at ten next morning we went, and were +led into the courts of Shinte, the walls of which were woven rods, all +very neat and high. Many trees stood within the inclosure and afforded a +grateful shade. These had been planted, for we saw some recently put +in, with grass wound round the trunk to protect them from the sun. The +otherwise waste corners of the streets were planted with sugar-cane and +bananas, which spread their large light leaves over the walls. + +The Ficus Indica tree, under which we now sat, had very large leaves, +but showed its relationship to the Indian banian by sending down shoots +toward the ground. Shinte soon came, and appeared a man of upward of +fifty-five years of age, of frank and open countenance, and about +the middle height. He seemed in good humor, and said he had expected +yesterday "that a man who came from the gods would have approached +and talked to him." That had been my own intention in going to the +reception; but when we came and saw the formidable preparations, and all +his own men keeping at least forty yards off from him, I yielded to the +solicitations of my men, and remained by the tree opposite to that under +which he sat. His remark confirmed my previous belief that a frank, +open, fearless manner is the most winning with all these Africans. I +stated the object of my journey and mission, and to all I advanced the +old gentleman clapped his hands in approbation. He replied through a +spokesman; then all the company joined in the response by clapping of +hands too. + +After the more serious business was over, I asked if he had ever seen a +white man before. He replied, "Never; you are the very first I have seen +with a white skin and straight hair; your clothing, too, is different +from any we have ever seen." They had been visited by native Portuguese +and Mambari only. + +On learning from some of the people that "Shinte's mouth was bitter +for want of tasting ox-flesh," I presented him with an ox, to his great +delight; and, as his country is so well adapted for cattle, I advised +him to begin a trade in cows with the Makololo. He was pleased with the +idea, and when we returned from Loanda, we found that he had profited by +the hint, for he had got three, and one of them justified my opinion of +the country, for it was more like a prize heifer for fatness than any +we had seen in Africa. He soon afterward sent us a basket of green maize +boiled, another of manioc-meal, and a small fowl. The maize shows by +its size the fertility of the black soil of all the valleys here, and so +does the manioc, though no manure is ever applied. We saw manioc attain +a height of six feet and upward, and this is a plant which requires the +very best soil. + +During this time Manenko had been extremely busy with all her people +in getting up a very pretty hut and court-yard, to be, as she said, her +residence always when white men were brought by her along the same path. +When she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle, she came forward +to us with the air of one wronged, and explained that "this white man +belonged to her; she had brought him here, and therefore the ox was +hers, not Shinte's." She ordered her men to bring it, got it slaughtered +by them, and presented her uncle with a leg only. Shinte did not seem at +all annoyed at the occurrence. + +19TH. I was awakened at an early hour by a messenger from Shinte; but +the thirst of a raging fever being just assuaged by the bursting forth +of a copious perspiration, I declined going for a few hours. Violent +action of the heart all the way to the town did not predispose me to be +patient with the delay which then occurred, probably on account of +the divination being unfavorable: "They could not find Shinte." When I +returned to bed, another message was received, "Shinte wished to say all +he had to tell me at once." This was too tempting an offer, so we +went, and he had a fowl ready in his hand to present, also a basket +of manioc-meal, and a calabash of mead. Referring to the +constantly-recurring attacks of fever, he remarked that it was the only +thing which would prevent a successful issue to my journey, for he had +men to guide me who knew all the paths which led to the white men. +He had himself traveled far when a young man. On asking what he would +recommend for the fever, "Drink plenty of the mead, and as it gets in, +it will drive the fever out." It was rather strong, and I suspect he +liked the remedy pretty well, even though he had no fever. He had always +been a friend to Sebituane, and, now that his son Sekeletu was in his +place, Shinte was not merely a friend, but a father to him; and if a son +asks a favor, the father must give it. He was highly pleased with the +large calabashes of clarified butter and fat which Sekeletu had sent +him, and wished to detain Kolimbota, that he might send a present back +to Sekeletu by his hands. This proposition we afterward discovered +was Kolimbota's own, as he had heard so much about the ferocity of the +tribes through which we were to pass that he wished to save his skin. +It will be seen farther on that he was the only one of our party who +returned with a wound. + +We were particularly struck, in passing through the village, with the +punctiliousness of manners shown by the Balonda. The inferiors, on +meeting their superiors in the street, at once drop on their knees +and rub dust on their arms and chest; they continue the salutation of +clapping the hands until the great ones have passed. Sambanza knelt down +in this manner till the son of Shinte had passed him. + +We several times saw the woman who occupies the office of drawer of +water for Shinte; she rings a bell as she passes along to give warning +to all to keep out of her way; it would be a grave offense for any one +to come near her, and exercise an evil influence by his presence on the +drink of the chief. I suspect that offenses of the slightest character +among the poor are made the pretext for selling them or their children +to the Mambari. A young man of Lobale had fled into the country of +Shinte, and located himself without showing himself to the chief. This +was considered an offense sufficient to warrant his being seized and +offered for sale while we were there. He had not reported himself, so +they did not know the reason of his running away from his own chief, and +that chief might accuse them of receiving a criminal. It was curious +to notice the effect of the slave-trade in blunting the moral +susceptibility: no chief in the south would treat a fugitive in this +way. My men were horrified at the act, even though old Shinte and his +council had some show of reason on their side; and both the Barotse +and the Makololo declared that, if the Balonda only knew of the policy +pursued by them to fugitives, but few of the discontented would remain +long with Shinte. My men excited the wonder of his people by stating +that every one of them had one cow at least in his possession. + +Another incident, which occurred while we were here, may be mentioned, +as of a character totally unknown in the south. Two children, of seven +and eight years old, went out to collect firewood a short distance from +their parents' home, which was a quarter of a mile from the village, and +were kidnapped; the distracted parents could not find a trace of them. +This happened so close to the town, where there are no beasts of prey, +that we suspect some of the high men of Shinte's court were the guilty +parties: they can sell them by night. The Mambari erect large huts of a +square shape to stow these stolen ones in; they are well fed, but aired +by night only. The frequent kidnapping from outlying hamlets explains +the stockades we saw around them; the parents have no redress, for even +Shinte himself seems fond of working in the dark. One night he sent for +me, though I always stated I liked all my dealings to be aboveboard. +When I came he presented me with a slave girl about ten years old; he +said he had always been in the habit of presenting his visitors with a +child. On my thanking him, and saying that I thought it wrong to take +away children from their parents, that I wished him to give up this +system altogether, and trade in cattle, ivory, and bees'-wax, he urged +that she was "to be a child" to bring me water, and that a great man +ought to have a child for the purpose, yet I had none. As I replied that +I had four children, and should be very sorry if my chief were to take +my little girl and give her away, and that I would prefer this child to +remain and carry water for her own mother, he thought I was dissatisfied +with her size, and sent for one a head taller; after many explanations +of our abhorrence of slavery, and how displeasing it must be to God +to see his children selling one another, and giving each other so much +grief as this child's mother must feel, I declined her also. If I could +have taken her into my family for the purpose of instruction, and then +returned her as a free woman, according to a promise I should have made +to the parents, I might have done so; but to take her away, and probably +never be able to secure her return, would have produced no good effect +on the minds of the Balonda; they would not then have seen evidence of +our hatred to slavery, and the kind attentions of my friends would, as +it almost always does in similar cases, have turned the poor thing's +head. The difference in position between them and us is as great as +between the lowest and highest in England, and we know the effects of +sudden elevation on wiser heads than hers, whose owners had not been +born to it. + +Shinte was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic lantern; but +fever had so weakening an effect, and I had such violent action of the +heart, with buzzing in the ears, that I could not go for several days; +when I did go for the purpose, he had his principal men and the same +crowd of court beauties near him as at the reception. The first picture +exhibited was Abraham about to slaughter his son Isaac; it was shown +as large as life, and the uplifted knife was in the act of striking the +lad; the Balonda men remarked that the picture was much more like a god +than the things of wood or clay they worshiped. I explained that this +man was the first of a race to whom God had given the Bible we now held, +and that among his children our Savior appeared. The ladies listened +with silent awe; but, when I moved the slide, the uplifted dagger moving +toward them, they thought it was to be sheathed in their bodies instead +of Isaac's. "Mother! mother!" all shouted at once, and off they rushed +helter-skelter, tumbling pell-mell over each other, and over the little +idol-huts and tobacco-bushes: we could not get one of them back again. +Shinte, however, sat bravely through the whole, and afterward examined +the instrument with interest. An explanation was always added after +each time of showing its powers, so that no one should imagine there was +aught supernatural in it; and had Mr. Murray, who kindly brought it from +England, seen its popularity among both Makololo and Balonda, he would +have been gratified with the direction his generosity then took. It was +the only mode of instruction I was ever pressed to repeat. The people +came long distances for the express purpose of seeing the objects and +hearing the explanations. + +One can not get away quickly from these chiefs; they like to have the +honor of strangers residing in their villages. Here we had an additional +cause of delay in frequent rains; twenty-four hours never elapsed +without heavy showers; every thing is affected by the dampness; surgical +instruments become all rusty, clothing mildewed, and shoes mouldy; my +little tent was now so rotten and so full of small holes that every +smart shower caused a fine mist to descend on my blanket, and made me +fain to cover the head with it. Heavy dews lay on every thing in the +morning, even inside the tent; there is only a short time of sunshine in +the afternoon, and even that is so interrupted by thunder-showers that +we can not dry our bedding. + +The winds coming from the north always bring heavy clouds and rain; in +the south, the only heavy rains noticed are those which come from the +northeast or east. The thermometer falls as low as 72 Degrees when +there is no sunshine, though, when the weather is fair, the protected +thermometer generally rises as high as 82 Degrees, even in the mornings +and evenings. + +24TH. We expected to have started to-day, but Sambanza, who had been +sent off early in the morning for guides, returned at midday without +them, and drunk. This was the first case of real babbling intoxication +we had seen in this region. The boyaloa, or beer of the country, has +more of a stupefying than exciting nature; hence the beer-bibbers are +great sleepers; they may frequently be seen lying on their faces +sound asleep. This peculiarity of posture was ascribed, by no less an +authority than Aristotle, to wine, while those who were sent asleep by +beer were believed "to lie upon their backs." + +Sambanza had got into a state of inebriation from indulging in mead, +similar to that which Shinte presented to us, which is much more +powerful than boyaloa. As far as we could collect from his incoherent +sentences, Shinte had said the rain was too heavy for our departure, and +the guides still required time for preparation. Shinte himself was busy +getting some meal ready for my use in the journey. As it rained nearly +all day, it was no sacrifice to submit to his advice and remain. +Sambanza staggered to Manenko's hut; she, however, who had never +promised "to love, honor, and obey him," had not been "nursing her wrath +to keep it warm," so she coolly bundled him into the hut, and put him to +bed. + +As the last proof of friendship, Shinte came into my tent, though +it could scarcely contain more than one person, looked at all the +curiosities, the quicksilver, the looking-glass, books, hair-brushes, +comb, watch, etc., etc., with the greatest interest; then closing the +tent, so that none of his own people might see the extravagance of which +he was about to be guilty, he drew out from his clothing a string of +beads, and the end of a conical shell, which is considered, in regions +far from the sea, of as great value as the Lord Mayor's badge is in +London. He hung it round my neck, and said, "There, now you HAVE a proof +of my friendship." + +My men informed me that these shells are so highly valued in this +quarter, as evidences of distinction, that for two of them a slave +might be bought, and five would be considered a handsome price for +an elephant's tusk worth ten pounds. At our last interview old Shinte +pointed out our principal guide, Intemese, a man about fifty, who was, +he said, ordered to remain by us till we should reach the sea; that I +had now left Sekeletu far behind, and must henceforth look to Shinte +alone for aid, and that it would always be most cheerfully rendered. +This was only a polite way of expressing his wishes for my success. It +was the good words only of the guides which were to aid me from the next +chief, Katema, on to the sea; they were to turn back on reaching him; +but he gave a good supply of food for the journey before us, and, after +mentioning as a reason for letting us go even now that no one could say +we had been driven away from the town, since we had been several days +with him, he gave a most hearty salutation, and we parted with the wish +that God might bless him. + + + + +Chapter 17. + +Leave Shinte--Manioc Gardens--Mode of preparing the poisonous kind--Its +general Use--Presents of Food--Punctiliousness of the Balonda-- +Their Idols and Superstition--Dress of the Balonda--Villages beyond +Lonaje--Cazembe--Our Guides and the Makololo--Night Rains--Inquiries +for English cotton Goods--Intemese's Fiction--Visit from an old +Man--Theft--Industry of our Guide--Loss of Pontoon--Plains covered +with Water--Affection of the Balonda for their Mothers--A Night on an +Island--The Grass on the Plains--Source of the Rivers--Loan of the +Roofs of Huts--A Halt--Fertility of the Country through which the +Lokalueje flows--Omnivorous Fish--Natives' Mode of catching them-- +The Village of a Half-brother of Katema, his Speech and Present--Our +Guide's Perversity--Mozenkwa's pleasant Home and Family--Clear Water of +the flooded Rivers--A Messenger from Katema--Quendende's Village: his +Kindness--Crop of Wool--Meet People from the Town of Matiamvo--Fireside +Talk--Matiamvo's Character and Conduct--Presentation at Katema's Court: +his Present, good Sense, and Appearance--Interview on the following +Day--Cattle--A Feast and a Makololo Dance--Arrest of a Fugitive-- +Dignified old Courtier--Katema's lax Government--Cold Wind from the +North--Canaries and other singing Birds--Spiders, their Nests and +Webs--Lake Dilolo--Tradition--Sagacity of Ants. + + + +26TH. Leaving Shinte, with eight of his men to aid in carrying our +luggage, we passed, in a northerly direction, down the lovely valley +on which the town stands, then went a little to the west through pretty +open forest, and slept at a village of Balonda. In the morning we had +a fine range of green hills, called Saloisho, on our right, and were +informed that they were rather thickly inhabited by the people of +Shinte, who worked in iron, the ore of which abounds in these hills. + +The country through which we passed possessed the same general character +of flatness and forest that we noticed before. The soil is dark, with a +tinge of red--in some places it might be called red--and appeared very +fertile. Every valley contained villages of twenty or thirty huts, with +gardens of manioc, which here is looked upon as the staff of life. Very +little labor is required for its cultivation. The earth is drawn up into +oblong beds, about three feet broad and one in height, and in these are +planted pieces of the manioc stalk, at four feet apart. A crop of beans +or ground-nuts is sown between them, and when these are reaped the land +around the manioc is cleared of weeds. In from ten to eighteen months +after planting, according to the quality of the soil, the roots are fit +for food. There is no necessity for reaping soon, as the roots do not +become bitter and dry until after three years. When a woman takes up the +roots, she thrusts a piece or two of the upper stalks into the hole +she has made, draws back the soil, and a new crop is thereby begun. The +plant grows to a height of six feet, and every part of it is useful: the +leaves may be cooked as a vegetable. The roots are from three to four +inches in diameter, and from twelve to eighteen inches long. + +There are two varieties of the manioc or cassava--one sweet and +wholesome, the other bitter and containing poison, but much more +speedy in its growth than the former. This last property causes its +perpetuation. When we reached the village of Kapende, on the banks of +the rivulet Lonaje, we were presented with so much of the poisonous kind +that we were obliged to leave it. To get rid of the poison, the people +place it four days in a pool of water. It then becomes partially +decomposed, and is taken out, stripped of its skin, and exposed to the +sun. When dried, it is easily pounded into a fine white meal, closely +resembling starch, which has either a little of the peculiar taste +arising from decomposition, or no more flavor than starch. When intended +to be used as food, this meal is stirred into boiling water: they put +in as much as can be moistened, one man holding the vessel and the other +stirring the porridge with all his might. This is the common mess of the +country. Though hungry, we could just manage to swallow it with the aid +of a little honey, which I shared with my men as long as it lasted. It +is very unsavory (Scottice: wersh); and no matter how much one may eat, +two hours afterward he is as hungry as ever. When less meal is employed, +the mess is exactly like a basin of starch in the hands of a laundress; +and if the starch were made from diseased potatoes, some idea might be +formed of the Balonda porridge, which hunger alone forced us to +eat. Santuru forbade his nobles to eat it, as it caused coughing and +expectoration. + +Our chief guide, Intemese, sent orders to all the villages around our +route that Shinte's friends must have abundance of provisions. Our +progress was impeded by the time requisite for communicating the chief's +desire and consequent preparation of meal. We received far more food +from Shinte's people than from himself. Kapende, for instance, presented +two large baskets of meal, three of manioc roots steeped and dried in +the sun and ready to be converted into flour, three fowls, and seven +eggs, with three smoke-dried fishes; and others gave with similar +liberality. I gave to the head men small bunches of my stock of beads, +with an apology that we were now on our way to the market for these +goods. The present was always politely received. + +We had an opportunity of observing that our guides had much more +etiquette than any of the tribes farther south. They gave us food, but +would not partake of it when we had cooked it, nor would they eat their +own food in our presence. When it was cooked they retired into a thicket +and ate their porridge; then all stood up, and clapped their hands, and +praised Intemese for it. The Makololo, who are accustomed to the most +free and easy manners, held out handfuls of what they had cooked to +any of the Balonda near, but they refused to taste. They are very +punctilious in their manners to each other. Each hut has its own fire, +and when it goes out they make it afresh for themselves rather than take +it from a neighbor. I believe much of this arises from superstitious +fears. In the deep, dark forests near each village, as already +mentioned, you see idols intended to represent the human head or a +lion, or a crooked stick smeared with medicine, or simply a small pot of +medicine in a little shed, or miniature huts with little mounds of earth +in them. But in the darker recesses we meet with human faces cut in the +bark of trees, the outlines of which, with the beards, closely resemble +those seen on Egyptian monuments. Frequent cuts are made on the trees +along all the paths, and offerings of small pieces of manioc roots or +ears of maize are placed on branches. There are also to be seen every +few miles heaps of sticks, which are treated in cairn fashion, by every +one throwing a small branch to the heap in passing; or a few sticks are +placed on the path, and each passer-by turns from his course, and forms +a sudden bend in the road to one side. It seems as if their minds were +ever in doubt and dread in these gloomy recesses of the forest, and +that they were striving to propitiate, by their offerings, some superior +beings residing there. + +The dress of the Balonda men consists of the softened skins of small +animals, as the jackal or wild cat, hung before and behind from a girdle +round the loins. The dress of the women is of a nondescript character; +but they were not immodest. They stood before us as perfectly +unconscious of any indecorum as we could be with our clothes on. But, +while ignorant of their own deficiency, they could not maintain their +gravity at the sight of the nudity of my men behind. Much to the +annoyance of my companions, the young girls laughed outright whenever +their backs were turned to them. + +After crossing the Lonaje, we came to some pretty villages, embowered, +as the negro villages usually are, in bananas, shrubs, and manioc, +and near the banks of the Leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of +serpents, one of which bit one of our men, but the wound was harmless. +The people of the surrounding villages presented us with large +quantities of food, in obedience to the mandate of Shinte, without +expecting any equivalent. One village had lately been transferred hither +from the country of Matiamvo. They, of course, continue to acknowledge +him as paramount chief; but the frequent instances which occur of people +changing from one part of the country to another, show that the great +chiefs possess only a limited power. The only peculiarity we observed in +these people is the habit of plaiting the beard into a three-fold cord. + +The town of the Balonda chief Cazembe was pointed out to us as lying to +the N.E. and by E. from the town of Shinte, and great numbers of people +in this quarter have gone thither for the purpose of purchasing copper +anklets, made at Cazembe's, and report the distance to be about five +days' journey. I made inquiries of some of the oldest inhabitants of the +villages at which we were staying respecting the visit of Pereira and +Lacerda to that town. An old gray-headed man replied that they had often +heard of white men before, but never had seen one, and added that one +had come to Cazembe when our informant was young, and returned again +without entering this part of the country. The people of Cazembe are +Balonda or Baloi, and his country has been termed Londa, Lunda, or Lui, +by the Portuguese. + +It was always difficult to get our guides to move away from a place. +With the authority of the chief, they felt as comfortable as king's +messengers could, and were not disposed to forego the pleasure of living +at free quarters. My Makololo friends were but ill drilled as yet; and +since they had never left their own country before, except for purposes +of plunder, they did not take readily to the peaceful system we now +meant to follow. They either spoke too imperiously to strangers, or, +when reproved for that, were disposed to follow the dictation of every +one we met. When Intemese, our guide, refused to stir toward the Leeba +on the 31st of January, they would make no effort to induce him to go; +but, having ordered them to get ready, Intemese saw the preparations, +and soon followed the example. It took us about four hours to cross the +Leeba, which is considerably smaller here than where we left it--indeed, +only about a hundred yards wide. It has the same dark mossy hue. The +villagers lent us canoes to effect our passage; and, having gone to +a village about two miles beyond the river, I had the satisfaction of +getting observations for both longitude and latitude--for the former, +the distance between Saturn and the Moon, and for the latter a meridian +altitude of Canopus. Long. 22d 57' E., lat. 12d 6' 6" S. + +These were the only opportunities I had of ascertaining my whereabouts +in this part of Londa. Again and again did I take out the instruments, +and, just as all was right, the stars would be suddenly obscured by +clouds. I had never observed so great an amount of cloudiness in any +part of the south country; and as for the rains, I believe that years +at Kolobeng would not have made my little tent so rotten and thin as one +month had done in Londa. I never observed in the south the heavy night +and early morning rains we had in this country. They often continued all +night, then became heavier about an hour before dawn. Or if fair during +the night, as day drew nigh, an extremely heavy, still, pouring rain set +in without warning. Five out of every six days we had this pouring rain, +at or near break of day, for months together; and it soon beat my tent +so thin, that a mist fell through on my face and made every thing damp. +The rains were occasionally, but not always, accompanied with very loud +thunder. + +FEBRUARY 1ST. This day we had a fine view of two hills called Piri +(Peeri), meaning "two", on the side of the river we had left. The +country there is named Mokwankwa. And there Intemese informed us one of +Shinte's children was born, when he was in his progress southward from +the country of Matiamvo. This part of the country would thus seem not to +have been inhabited by the people of Shinte at any very remote period. +He told me himself that he had come into his present country by command +of Matiamvo. + +Here we were surprised to hear English cotton cloth much more eagerly +inquired after than beads and ornaments. They are more in need of +clothing than the Bechuana tribes living adjacent to the Kalahari +Desert, who have plenty of skins for the purpose. Animals of all kinds +are rare here, and a very small piece of calico is of great value. + +In the midst of the heavy rain, which continued all the morning, +Intemese sent to say he was laid up with pains in the stomach, and must +not be disturbed; but when it cleared up, about eleven, I saw our friend +walking off to the village, and talking with a very loud voice. On +reproaching him for telling an untruth, he turned it off with a laugh by +saying he really had a complaint in his stomach, which I might cure +by slaughtering one of the oxen and allowing him to eat beef. He was +evidently reveling in the abundance of good food the chief's orders +brought us; and he did not feel the shame I did when I gave a few beads +only in return for large baskets of meal. + +A very old man visited us here with a present of maize: like the others, +he had never before seen a white man, and, when conversing with him, +some of the young men remarked that they were the true ancients, for +they had now seen more wonderful things than their forefathers. + +One of Intemese's men stole a fowl given me by a lady of the village. +When charged with the theft, every one of Intemese's party vociferated +his innocence and indignation at being suspected, continuing their +loud asseverations and gesticulations for some minutes. One of my men, +Loyanke, went off to the village, brought the lady who had presented the +fowl to identify it, and then pointed to the hut in which it was hidden. +The Balonda collected round him, evincing great wrath; but Loyanke +seized his battle-axe in the proper manner for striking, and, placing +himself on a little hillock, soon made them moderate their tones. +Intemese then called on me to send one of my people to search the huts +if I suspected his people. The man sent soon found it, and brought it +out, to the confusion of Intemese and the laughter of our party. This +incident is mentioned to show that the greater superstition which exists +here does not lead to the practice of the virtues. We never met an +instance like this of theft from a white man among the Makololo, though +they complain of the Makalaka as addicted to pilfering. The honesty of +the Bakwains has been already noticed. Probably the estimation in which +I was held as a public benefactor, in which character I was not yet +known to the Balonda, may account for the sacredness with which my +property was always treated before. But other incidents which happened +subsequently showed, as well as this, that idolaters are not so virtuous +as those who have no idols. + +As the people on the banks of the Leeba were the last of Shinte's tribe +over which Intemese had power, he was naturally anxious to remain as +long as possible. He was not idle, but made a large wooden mortar and +pestle for his wife during our journey. He also carved many wooden +spoons and a bowl; then commenced a basket; but as what he considered +good living was any thing but agreeable to us, who had been accustomed +to milk and maize, we went forward on the 2d without him. He soon +followed, but left our pontoon, saying it would be brought by the head +man of the village. This was a great loss, as we afterward found; it +remained at this village more than a year, and when we returned a mouse +had eaten a hole in it. + +We entered on an extensive plain beyond the Leeba, at least twenty miles +broad, and covered with water, ankle deep in the shallowest parts. We +deviated somewhat from our N.W. course by the direction of Intemese, and +kept the hills Piri nearly on our right during a great part of the first +day, in order to avoid the still more deeply flooded plains of Lobale +(Luval?) on the west. These, according to Intemese, are at present +impassable on account of being thigh deep. The plains are so perfectly +level that rain-water, which this was, stands upon them for months +together. They were not flooded by the Leeba, for that was still far +within its banks. Here and there, dotted over the surface, are little +islands, on which grow stunted date-bushes and scraggy trees. The plains +themselves are covered with a thick sward of grass, which conceals +the water, and makes the flats appear like great pale yellow-colored +prairie-lands, with a clear horizon, except where interrupted here and +there by trees. The clear rain-water must have stood some time among the +grass, for great numbers of lotus-flowers were seen in full blow; and +the runs of water tortoises and crabs were observed; other animals also, +which prey on the fish that find their way to the plains. + +The continual splashing of the oxen keeps the feet of the rider +constantly wet, and my men complain of the perpetual moisture of the +paths by which we have traveled in Londa as softening their horny soles. +The only information we can glean is from Intemese, who points out the +different localities as we pass along, and among the rest "Mokala +a Mama", his "mamma's home". It was interesting to hear this tall +gray-headed man recall the memories of boyhood. All the Makalaka +children cleave to the mother in cases of separation, or removal from +one part of the country to another. This love for mothers does not argue +superior morality in other respects, or else Intemese has forgotten any +injunctions his mamma may have given him not to tell lies. The respect, +however, with which he spoke of her was quite characteristic of his +race. The Bechuanas, on the contrary, care nothing for their mothers, +but cling to their fathers, especially if they have any expectation of +becoming heirs to their cattle. Our Bakwain guide to the lake, Rachosi, +told me that his mother lived in the country of Sebituane, but, though +a good specimen of the Bechuanas, he laughed at the idea of going so +far as from the Lake Ngami to the Chobe merely for the purpose of seeing +her. Had he been one of the Makalaka, he never would have parted from +her. + +We made our beds on one of the islands, and were wretchedly supplied +with firewood. The booths constructed by the men were but sorry shelter, +for the rain poured down without intermission till midday. There is no +drainage for the prodigious masses of water on these plains, except slow +percolation into the different feeders of the Leeba, and into that +river itself. The quantity of vegetation has prevented the country +from becoming furrowed by many rivulets or "nullahs". Were it not so +remarkably flat, the drainage must have been effected by torrents, even +in spite of the matted vegetation. + +That these extensive plains are covered with grasses only, and the +little islands with but scraggy trees, may be accounted for by the fact, +observable every where in this country, that, where water stands for any +length of time, trees can not live. The want of speedy drainage destroys +them, and injures the growth of those that are planted on the islands, +for they have no depth of earth not subjected to the souring influence +of the stagnant water. The plains of Lobale, to the west of these, are +said to be much more extensive than any we saw, and their vegetation +possesses similar peculiarities. When the stagnant rain-water has all +soaked in, as must happen during the months in which there is no rain, +travelers are even put to straits for want of water. This is stated +on native testimony; but I can very well believe that level plains, in +which neither wells nor gullies are met with, may, after the dry season, +present the opposite extreme to what we witnessed. Water, however, could +always be got by digging, a proof of which we had on our return when +brought to a stand on this very plain by severe fever: about twelve +miles from the Kasai my men dug down a few feet, and found an abundant +supply; and we saw on one of the islands the garden of a man who, in +the dry season, had drunk water from a well in like manner. Plains +like these can not be inhabited while the present system of cultivation +lasts. The population is not yet so very large as to need them. They +find garden-ground enough on the gentle slopes at the sides of the +rivulets, and possess no cattle to eat off the millions of acres of fine +hay we were now wading through. Any one who has visited the Cape Colony +will understand me when I say that these immense crops resemble sown +grasses more than the tufty vegetation of the south. + +I would here request the particular attention of the reader to the +phenomena these periodically deluged plains present, because they have a +most important bearing on the physical geography of a very large portion +of this country. The plains of Lobale, to the west of this, give rise +to a great many streams, which unite, and form the deep, never-failing +Chobe. Similar extensive flats give birth to the Loeti and Kasai, and, +as we shall see further on, all the rivers of an extensive region owe +their origin to oozing bogs, and not to fountains. + +When released from our island by the rain ceasing, we marched on till +we came to a ridge of dry inhabited land in the N.W. The inhabitants, +according to custom, lent us the roofs of some huts to save the men the +trouble of booth-making. I suspect that the story in Park's "Travels", +of the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion, referred to the +roof only. We leave them for the villagers to replace at their leisure. +No payment is expected for the use of them. By night it rained so +copiously that all our beds were flooded from below; and from this time +forth we always made a furrow round each booth, and used the earth to +raise our sleeping-places. My men turned out to work in the wet most +willingly; indeed, they always did. I could not but contrast their +conduct with that of Intemese. He was thoroughly imbued with the slave +spirit, and lied on all occasions without compunction. Untruthfulness is +a sort of refuge for the weak and oppressed. We expected to move on the +4th, but he declared that we were so near Katema's, if we did not send +forward to apprise that chief of our approach, he would certainly impose +a fine. It rained the whole day, so we were reconciled to the delay; but +on Sunday, the 5th, he let us know that we were still two days distant +from Katema. We unfortunately could not manage without him, for the +country was so deluged, we should have been brought to a halt before +we went many miles by some deep valley, every one of which was full of +water. Intemese continued to plait his basket with all his might, and +would not come to our religious service. He seemed to be afraid of our +incantations, but was always merry and jocular. + +6TH. Soon after starting we crossed a branch of the Lokalueje by means +of a canoe, and in the afternoon passed over the main stream by a like +conveyance. The former, as is the case with all branches of rivers +in this country, is called nyuana Kalueje (child of the Kalueje). +Hippopotami exist in the Lokalueje, so it may be inferred to be +perennial, as the inhabitants asserted. We can not judge of the size +of the stream from what we now saw. It had about forty yards of deep, +fast-flowing water, but probably not more than half that amount in the +dry season. Besides these, we crossed numerous feeders in our N.N.W. +course, and, there being no canoes, got frequently wet in the course of +the day. The oxen in some places had their heads only above water, and +the stream, flowing over their backs, wetted our blankets, which we used +as saddles. The arm-pit was the only safe spot for carrying the watch, +for there it was preserved from rains above and waters below. The men on +foot crossed these gullies holding up their burdens at arms' length. + +The Lokalueje winds from northeast to southwest into the Leeba. The +country adjacent to its banks is extremely fine and fertile, with +here and there patches of forest or clumps of magnificent trees. The +villagers through whose gardens we passed continue to sow and reap all +the year round. The grains, as maize, lotsa ('Pennisetum typhoideum'), +lokesh or millet, are to be seen at all stages of their growth--some +just ripe, while at this time the Makololo crops are not half grown. My +companions, who have a good idea of the different qualities of soils, +expressed the greatest admiration of the agricultural capabilities of +the whole of Londa, and here they were loud in their praises of the +pasturage. They have an accurate idea of the varieties of grasses best +adapted for different kinds of stock, and lament because here there +are no cows to feed off the rich green crop, which at this time imparts +special beauty to the landscape. + +Great numbers of the omnivorous feeding fish, 'Glanis siluris', or +mosala, spread themselves over the flooded plains, and, as the waters +retire, try to find their way back again to the rivers. The Balonda make +earthen dikes and hedges across the outlets of the retreating waters, +leaving only small spaces through which the chief part of the water +flows. In these open spaces they plant creels, similar in shape to our +own, into which the fish can enter, but can not return. They secure +large quantities of fish in this way, which, when smoke-dried, make a +good relish for their otherwise insipid food. They use also a weir of +mats made of reeds sewed together, with but half an inch between each. +Open spaces are left for the insertion of the creels as before. + +In still water, a fish-trap is employed of the same shape and plan as +the common round wire mouse-trap, which has an opening surrounded with +wires pointing inward. This is made of reeds and supple wands, and food +is placed inside to attract the fish. + +Besides these means of catching fish, they use a hook of iron without a +barb; the point is bent inward instead, so as not to allow the fish to +escape. Nets are not so common as in the Zouga and Leeambye, but they +kill large quantities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a +shrub, which may be seen planted beside every village in the country. + +On the 7th we came to the village of Soana Molopo, a half-brother of +Katema, a few miles beyond the Lokalueje. When we went to visit him, we +found him sitting with about one hundred men. He called on Intemese to +give some account of us, though no doubt it had been done in private +before. He then pronounced the following sentences: "The journey of the +white man is very proper, but Shinte has disturbed us by showing the +path to the Makololo who accompany him. He ought to have taken them +through the country without showing them the towns. We are afraid of +the Makololo." He then gave us a handsome present of food, and seemed +perplexed by my sitting down familiarly, and giving him a few of our +ideas. When we left, Intemese continued busily imparting an account +of all we had given to Shinte and Masiko, and instilling the hope that +Soana Molopo might obtain as much as they had received. Accordingly, +when we expected to move on the morning of the 8th, we got some hints +about the ox which Soana Molopo expected to eat, but we recommended him +to get the breed of cattle for himself, seeing his country was so well +adapted for rearing stock. Intemese also refused to move; he, moreover, +tried to frighten us into parting with an ox by saying that Soana Molopo +would send forward a message that we were a marauding party; but we +packed up and went on without him. We did not absolutely need him, but +he was useful in preventing the inhabitants of secluded villages from +betaking themselves to flight. We wished to be on good terms with +all, and therefore put up with our guide's peccadilloes. His good word +respecting us had considerable influence, and he was always asked if we +had behaved ourselves like men on the way. The Makololo are viewed as +great savages, but Intemese could not justly look with scorn on them, +for he has the mark of a large gash on his arm, got in fighting; and he +would never tell the cause of battle, but boasted of his powers as the +Makololo do, till asked about a scar on his back, betokening any thing +but bravery. + +Intemese was useful in cases like that of Monday, when we came upon +a whole village in a forest enjoying their noonday nap. Our sudden +appearance in their midst so terrified them that one woman nearly went +into convulsions from fear. When they saw and heard Intemese, their +terror subsided. + +As usual, we were caught by rains after leaving Soana Molopo's, and made +our booths at the house of Mozinkwa, a most intelligent and friendly man +belonging to Katema. He had a fine large garden in cultivation, and well +hedged round. He had made the walls of his compound, or court-yard, of +branches of the banian, which, taking root, had grown to be a live hedge +of that tree. Mozinkwa's wife had cotton growing all round her premises, +and several plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of the +country. She cultivated also the common castor-oil plant, and a larger +shrub ('Jatropha curcas'), which also yields a purgative oil. Here, +however, the oil is used for anointing the heads and bodies alone. +We saw in her garden likewise the Indian bringalls, yams, and sweet +potatoes. Several trees were planted in the middle of the yard, and +in the deep shade they gave stood the huts of his fine family. His +children, all by one mother, very black, but comely to view, were the +finest negro family I ever saw. We were much pleased with the frank +friendship and liberality of this man and his wife. She asked me to +bring her a cloth from the white man's country; but, when we returned, +poor Mozinkwa's wife was in her grave, and he, as is the custom, had +abandoned trees, garden, and huts to ruin. They can not live on a spot +where a favorite wife has died, probably because unable to bear the +remembrance of the happy times they have spent there, or afraid to +remain in a spot where death has once visited the establishment. If ever +the place is revisited, it is to pray to her, or make some offering. +This feeling renders any permanent village in the country impossible. + +We learned from Mozinkwa that Soana Molopo was the elder brother of +Katema, but that he was wanting in wisdom; and Katema, by purchasing +cattle and receiving in a kind manner all the fugitives who came to +him, had secured the birthright to himself, so far as influence in the +country is concerned. Soana's first address to us did not savor much of +African wisdom. + +FRIDAY, 10TH. On leaving Mozinkwa's hospitable mansion we crossed +another stream, about forty yards wide, in canoes. While this tedious +process was going on, I was informed that it is called the Mona-Kalueje, +or brother of Kalueje, as it flows into that river; that both the +Kalueje and Livoa flow into the Leeba; and that the Chifumadze, swollen +by the Lotembwa, is a feeder of that river also, below the point where +we lately crossed it. It may be remarked here that these rivers were now +in flood, and that the water was all perfectly clear. The vegetation +on the banks is so thickly planted that the surface of the earth is not +abraded by the torrents. The grass is laid flat, and forms a protection +to the banks, which are generally a stiff black loam. The fact of canoes +being upon them shows that, though not large, they are not like the +southern rivulets, which dry up during most of the year, and render +canoes unnecessary. + +As we were crossing the river we were joined by a messenger from Katema, +called Shakatwala. This person was a sort of steward or factotum to his +chief. Every chief has one attached to his person, and, though generally +poor, they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability. They +act the part of messengers on all important occasions, and possess +considerable authority in the chief's household. Shakatwala informed +us that Katema had not received precise information about us, but if we +were peaceably disposed, as he loved strangers, we were to come to his +town. We proceeded forthwith, but were turned aside, by the strategy of +our friend Intemese, to the village of Quendende, the father-in-law +of Katema. This fine old man was so very polite that we did not regret +being obliged to spend Sunday at his village. He expressed his pleasure +at having a share in the honor of a visit as well as Katema, though it +seemed to me that the conferring that pleasure required something like a +pretty good stock of impudence, in leading twenty-seven men through +the country without the means of purchasing food. My men did a little +business for themselves in the begging line; they generally commenced +every interview with new villagers by saying "I have come from afar; +give me something to eat." I forbade this at first, believing that, as +the Makololo had a bad name, the villagers gave food from fear. But, +after some time, it was evident that in many cases maize and manioc were +given from pure generosity. The first time I came to this conclusion was +at the house of Mozinkwa; scarcely any one of my men returned from +it without something in his hand; and as they protested they had not +begged, I asked himself, and found that it was the case, and that he had +given spontaneously. In other parts the chiefs attended to my wants, +and the common people gave liberally to my men. I presented some of my +razors and iron spoons to different head men, but my men had nothing to +give; yet every one tried to appropriate an individual in each village +as "Molekane", or comrade, and the villagers often assented; so, if the +reader remembers the molekane system of the Mopato, he may perceive that +those who presented food freely would expect the Makololo to treat them +in like manner, should they ever be placed in similar circumstances. +Their country is so fertile that they are in no want of food themselves; +however, their generosity was remarkable; only one woman refused to +give some of my men food, but her husband calling out to her to be more +liberal, she obeyed, scolding all the while. + +In this part of the country, buffaloes, elands, koodoos, and various +antelopes are to be found, but we did not get any, as they are +exceedingly wary from being much hunted. We had the same woodland and +meadow as before, with here and there pleasant negro villages; and being +all in good health, could enjoy the fine green scenery. + +Quendende's head was a good specimen of the greater crop of wool with +which the negroes of Londa are furnished. The front was parted in the +middle, and plaited into two thick rolls, which, falling down behind the +ears, reached the shoulders; the rest was collected into a large knot, +which lay on the nape of the neck. As he was an intelligent man, we had +much conversation together: he had just come from attending the funeral +of one of his people, and I found that the great amount of drum-beating +which takes place on these occasions was with the idea that the Barimo, +or spirits, could be drummed to sleep. There is a drum in every village, +and we often hear it going from sunset to sunrise. They seem to look +upon the departed as vindictive beings, and, I suspect, are more +influenced by fear than by love. In beginning to speak on religious +subjects with those who have never heard of Christianity, the great +fact of the Son of God having come down from heaven to die for us is the +prominent theme. No fact more striking can be mentioned. "He actually +came to men. He himself told us about his Father, and the dwelling-place +whither he has gone. We have his words in this book, and he really +endured punishment in our stead from pure love," etc. If this fails to +interest them, nothing else will succeed. + +We here met with some people just arrived from the town of Matiamvo +(Muata yanvo), who had been sent to announce the death of the late +chieftain of that name. Matiamvo is the hereditary title, muata meaning +lord or chief. The late Matiamvo seems, from the report of these men, to +have become insane, for he is said to have sometimes indulged the whim +of running a muck in the town and beheading whomsoever he met, until +he had quite a heap of human heads. Matiamvo explained this conduct by +saying that his people were too many, and he wanted to diminish them. +He had absolute power of life and death. On inquiring whether human +sacrifices were still made, as in the time of Pereira, at Cazembe's, we +were informed that these had never been so common as was represented +to Pereira, but that it occasionally happened, when certain charms were +needed by the chief, that a man was slaughtered for the sake of some +part of his body. He added that he hoped the present chief would not +act like his (mad) predecessor, but kill only those who were guilty of +witchcraft or theft. These men were very much astonished at the liberty +enjoyed by the Makololo; and when they found that all my people +held cattle, we were told that Matiamvo alone had a herd. One very +intelligent man among them asked, "If he should make a canoe, and take +it down the river to the Makololo, would he get a cow for it?" This +question, which my men answered in the affirmative, was important, +as showing the knowledge of a water communication from the country of +Matiamvo to the Makololo; and the river runs through a fertile country +abounding in large timber. If the tribes have intercourse with each +other, it exerts a good influence on their chiefs to hear what other +tribes think of their deeds. The Makololo have such a bad name, on +account of their perpetual forays, that they have not been known in +Londa except as ruthless destroyers. The people in Matiamvo's country +submit to much wrong from their chiefs, and no voice can be raised +against cruelty, because they are afraid to flee elsewhere. + +We left Quendende's village in company with Quendende himself, and the +principal man of the embassadors of Matiamvo, and after two or three +miles' march to the N.W., came to the ford of the Lotembwa, which flows +southward. A canoe was waiting to ferry us over, but it was very tedious +work; for, though the river itself was only eighty yards wide, the whole +valley was flooded, and we were obliged to paddle more than half a mile +to get free of the water. A fire was lit to warm old Quendende, and +enable him to dry his tobacco-leaves. The leaves are taken from the +plant, and spread close to the fire until they are quite dry and crisp; +they are then put into a snuff-box, which, with a little pestle, serves +the purpose of a mill to grind them into powder; it is then used +as snuff. As we sat by the fire, the embassadors communicated their +thoughts freely respecting the customs of their race. When a chief dies, +a number of servants are slaughtered with him to form his company in the +other world. The Barotse followed the same custom, and this and other +usages show them to be genuine negroes, though neither they nor the +Balonda resemble closely the typical form of that people. Quendende said +if he were present on these occasions he would hide his people, so that +they might not be slaughtered. As we go north, the people become more +bloodily superstitious. + +We were assured that if the late Matiamvo took a fancy to any thing, +such, for instance, as my watch-chain, which was of silver wire, and was +a great curiosity, as they had never seen metal plaited before, he would +order a whole village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger. When +a slave-trader visited him, he took possession of all his goods; then, +after ten days or a fortnight, he would send out a party of men to +pounce upon some considerable village, and, having killed the head +man, would pay for all the goods by selling the inhabitants. This has +frequently been the case, and nearly all the visitants he ever had were +men of color. On asking if Matiamvo did not know he was a man, and +would be judged, in company with those he destroyed, by a Lord who is no +respector of persons? the embassador replied, "We do not go up to God, +as you do; we are put into the ground." I could not ascertain that even +those who have such a distinct perception of the continued existence of +departed spirits had any notion of heaven; they appear to imagine the +souls to be always near the place of sepulture. + +After crossing the River Lotembwa we traveled about eight miles, and +came to Katema's straggling town (lat. 11d 35' 49" S., long. 22d 27' +E.). It is more a collection of villages than a town. We were led out +about half a mile from the houses, that we might make for ourselves the +best lodging we could of the trees and grass, while Intemese was taken +to Katema to undergo the usual process of pumping as to our past conduct +and professions. Katema soon afterward sent a handsome present of food. + +Next morning we had a formal presentation, and found Katema seated on a +sort of throne, with about three hundred men on the ground around, and +thirty women, who were said to be his wives, close behind him. The main +body of the people were seated in a semicircle, at a distance of fifty +yards. Each party had its own head man stationed at a little distance +in front, and, when beckoned by the chief, came near him as councilors. +Intemese gave our history, and Katema placed sixteen large baskets of +meal before us, half a dozen fowls, and a dozen eggs, and expressed +regret that we had slept hungry: he did not like any stranger to suffer +want in his town; and added, "Go home, and cook and eat, and you will +then be in a fit state to speak to me at an audience I will give you +to-morrow." He was busily engaged in hearing the statements of a large +body of fine young men who had fled from Kangenke, chief of Lobale, +on account of his selling their relatives to the native Portuguese who +frequent his country. Katema is a tall man, about forty years of age, +and his head was ornamented with a helmet of beads and feathers. He had +on a snuff-brown coat, with a broad band of tinsel down the arms, and +carried in his hand a large tail made of the caudal extremities of a +number of gnus. This has charms attached to it, and he continued waving +it in front of himself all the time we were there. He seemed in good +spirits, laughing heartily several times. This is a good sign, for a man +who shakes his sides with mirth is seldom difficult to deal with. When +we rose to take leave, all rose with us, as at Shinte's. + +Returning next morning, Katema addressed me thus: "I am the great Moene +(lord) Katema, the fellow of Matiamvo. There is no one in the country +equal to Matiamvo and me. I have always lived here, and my forefathers +too. There is the house in which my father lived. You found no human +skulls near the place where you are encamped. I never killed any of the +traders; they all come to me. I am the great Moene Katema, of whom you +have heard." He looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy, and dreamed of +his greatness. On explaining my objects to him, he promptly pointed out +three men who would be our guides, and explained that the northwest path +was the most direct, and that by which all traders came, but that the +water at present standing on the plains would reach up to the loins; he +would therefore send us by a more northerly route, which no trader had +yet traversed. This was more suited to our wishes, for we never found a +path safe that had been trodden by slave-traders. + +We presented a few articles, which pleased him highly: a small shawl, +a razor, three bunches of beads, some buttons, and a powder-horn. +Apologizing for the insignificance of the gift, I wished to know what +I could bring him from Loanda, saying, not a large thing, but something +small. He laughed heartily at the limitation, and replied, "Every thing +of the white people would be acceptable, and he would receive any thing +thankfully; but the coat he then had on was old, and he would like +another." I introduced the subject of the Bible, but one of the old +councilors broke in, told all he had picked up from the Mambari, and +glided off into several other subjects. It is a misery to speak through +an interpreter, as I was now forced to do. With a body of men like mine, +composed as they were of six different tribes, and all speaking the +language of the Bechuanas, there was no difficulty in communicating on +common subjects with any tribe we came to; but doling out a story in +which they felt no interest, and which I understood only sufficiently +well to perceive that a mere abridgment was given, was uncommonly +slow work. Neither could Katema's attention be arrested, except by +compliments, of which they have always plenty to bestow as well as +receive. We were strangers, and knew that, as Makololo, we had not the +best of characters, yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and +liberal. + +I complimented him on the possession of cattle, and pleased him by +telling him how he might milk the cows. He has a herd of about thirty, +really splendid animals, all reared from two which he bought from the +Balobale when he was young. They are generally of a white color, and are +quite wild, running off with graceful ease like a herd of elands on the +approach of a stranger. They excited the unbounded admiration of the +Makololo, and clearly proved that the country was well adapted for them. +When Katema wishes to slaughter one, he is obliged to shoot it as if +it were a buffalo. Matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle in a +similar state. I never could feel certain as to the reason why they do +not all possess cattle in a country containing such splendid pasturage. + +As Katema did not offer an ox, as would have been done by a Makololo +or Caffre chief, we slaughtered one of our own, and all of us were +delighted to get a meal of meat, after subsisting so long on the light +porridge and green maize of Londa. On occasions of slaughtering an +animal, some pieces of it are in the fire before the skin is all removed +from the body. A frying-pan full of these pieces having been got quickly +ready, my men crowded about their father, and I handed some all round. +It was a strange sight to the Balonda, who were looking on, wondering. +I offered portions to them too, but these were declined, though they +are excessively fond of a little animal food to eat with their vegetable +diet. They would not eat with us, but they would take the meat and cook +it in their own way, and then use it. I thought at one time that they +had imported something from the Mohammedans, and the more especially as +an exclamation of surprise, "Allah", sounds like the Illah of the +Arabs; but we found, a little farther on, another form of salutation, +of Christian (?) origin, "Ave-rie" (Ave Marie). The salutations probably +travel farther than the faith. My people, when satisfied with a meal +like that which they enjoy so often at home, amused themselves by an +uproarious dance. Katema sent to ask what I had given them to produce so +much excitement. Intemese replied it was their custom, and they meant no +harm. The companion of the ox we slaughtered refused food for two days, +and went lowing about for him continually. He seemed inconsolable for +his loss, and tried again and again to escape back to the Makololo +country. My men remarked, "He thinks they will kill me as well as my +friend." Katema thought it the result of art, and had fears of my skill +in medicine, and of course witchcraft. He refused to see the magic +lantern. + +One of the affairs which had been intrusted by Shinte to Intemese +was the rescue of a wife who had eloped with a young man belonging to +Katema. As this was the only case I have met with in the interior in +which a fugitive was sent back to a chief against his own will, I am +anxious to mention it. On Intemese claiming her as his master's wife, +she protested loudly against it, saying "she knew she was not going back +to be a wife again; she was going back to be sold to the Mambari." My +men formed many friendships with the people of Katema, and some of the +poorer classes said in confidence, "We wish our children could go back +with you to the Makololo country; here we are all in danger of being +sold." My men were of opinion that it was only the want of knowledge of +the southern country which prevented an exodus of all the lower portions +of Londa population thither. + +It is remarkable how little people living in a flat forest country like +this know of distant tribes. An old man, who said he had been born about +the same time as the late Matiamvo, and had been his constant companion +through life, visited us; and as I was sitting on some grass in front +of the little gipsy tent mending my camp stool, I invited him to take +a seat on the grass beside me. This was peremptorily refused: "he had +never sat on the ground during the late chief's reign, and he was not +going to degrade himself now." One of my men handed him a log of wood +taken from the fire, and helped him out of the difficulty. When I +offered him some cooked meat on a plate, he would not touch that either, +but would take it home. So I humored him by sending a servant to bear a +few ounces of meat to the town behind him. He mentioned the Lolo (Lulua) +as the branch of the Leeambye which flows southward or S.S.E.; but the +people of Matiamvo had never gone far down it, as their chief had always +been afraid of encountering a tribe whom, from the description given, +I could recognize as the Makololo. He described five rivers as falling +into the Lolo, viz., the Lishish, Liss or Lise, Kalileme, Ishidish, and +Molong. None of these are large, but when they are united in the Lolo +they form a considerable stream. The country through which the Lolo +flows is said to be flat, fertile, well peopled, and there are large +patches of forest. In this report he agreed perfectly with the people of +Matiamvo, whom we had met at Quendende's village. But we never could get +him, or any one in this quarter, to draw a map on the ground, as people +may readily be got to do in the south. + +Katema promised us the aid of some of his people as carriers, but his +rule is not very stringent or efficient, for they refused to turn out +for the work. They were Balobale; and he remarked on their disobedience +that, though he received them as fugitives, they did not feel grateful +enough to obey, and if they continued rebellious he must drive them back +whence they came; but there is little fear of that, as all the chiefs +are excessively anxious to collect men in great numbers around them. +These Balobale would not go, though our guide Shakatwala ran after some +of them with a drawn sword. This degree of liberty to rebel was very +striking to us, as it occurred in a country where people may be sold, +and often are so disposed of when guilty of any crime; and we well knew +that open disobedience like this among the Makololo would be punished +with death without much ceremony. + +On Sunday, the 19th, both I and several of our party were seized with +fever, and I could do nothing but toss about in my little tent, with the +thermometer above 90 Deg., though this was the beginning of winter, and +my men made as much shade as possible by planting branches of trees +all round and over it. We have, for the first time in my experience in +Africa, had a cold wind from the north. All the winds from that quarter +are hot, and those from the south are cold, but they seldom blow from +either direction. + +20TH. We were glad to get away, though not on account of any scarcity +of food; for my men, by giving small presents of meat as an earnest of +their sincerity, formed many friendships with the people of Katema. +We went about four or five miles in a N.N.W. direction, then two in a +westerly one, and came round the small end of Lake Dilolo. It seemed, as +far as we could at this time discern, to be like a river a quarter of +a mile wide. It is abundantly supplied with fish and hippopotami; the +broad part, which we did not this time see, is about three miles wide, +and the lake is almost seven or eight long. If it be thought strange +that I did not go a few miles to see the broad part, which, according +to Katema, had never been visited by any of the traders, it must be +remembered that in consequence of fever I had eaten nothing for two +entire days, and, instead of sleep, the whole of the nights were +employed in incessant drinking of water, and I was now so glad to get on +in the journey and see some of my fellow fever-patients crawling along, +that I could not brook the delay, which astronomical observations +for accurately determining the geographical position of this most +interesting spot would have occasioned. + +We observed among the people of Katema a love for singing-birds. One +pretty little songster, named "cabazo", a species of canary, is kept in +very neatly made cages, having traps on the top to entice its still free +companions. On asking why they kept them in confinement, "Because they +sing sweetly," was the answer. They feed them on the lotsa ('Pennisetum +typhoideum'), of which great quantities are cultivated as food for man, +and these canaries plague the gardeners here, very much in the same way +as our sparrows do at home. + +I was pleased to hear the long-forgotten cry of alarm of the canaries +in the woods, and observed one warbling forth its song, and keeping in +motion from side to side, as these birds do in the cage. We saw also +tame pigeons; and the Barotse, who always take care to exalt Santuru, +reminded us that this chief had many doves, and kept canaries which had +reddish heads when the birds attained maturity. Those we now see have +the real canary color on the breast, with a tinge of green; the back, +yellowish green, with darker longitudinal bands meeting in the centre; a +narrow dark band passes from the bill over the eye and back to the bill +again. + +The birds of song here set up quite a merry chorus in the mornings, and +abound most near the villages. Some sing as loudly as our thrushes, and +the king-hunter ('Halcyon Senegalensis') makes a clear whirring sound +like that of a whistle with a pea in it. During the heat of the day all +remain silent, and take their siesta in the shadiest parts of the +trees, but in the cool of the evening they again exert themselves in the +production of pleasant melody. It is remarkable that so many songbirds +abound where there is a general paucity of other animal life. As we went +forward we were struck by the comparative absence of game and the larger +kind of fowls. The rivers contain very few fish. Common flies are not +troublesome, as they are wherever milk is abundant; they are seen in +company with others of the same size and shape, but whose tiny feet do +not tickle the skin, as is the case with their companions. Mosquitoes +are seldom so numerous as to disturb the slumbers of a weary man. + +But, though this region is free from common insect plagues, and from +tsetse, it has others. Feeling something running across my forehead as +I was falling asleep, I put up the hand to wipe it off, and was sharply +stung both on the hand and head; the pain was very acute. On obtaining +a light, we found that it had been inflicted by a light-colored spider, +about half an inch in length, and, one of the men having crushed it with +his fingers, I had no opportunity of examining whether the pain had been +produced by poison from a sting or from its mandibles. No remedy was +applied, and the pain ceased in about two hours. The Bechuanas believe +that there is a small black spider in the country whose bite is fatal. +I have not met with an instance in which death could be traced to this +insect, though a very large black, hairy spider, an inch and a quarter +long and three quarters of an inch broad, is frequently seen, having a +process at the end of its front claws similar to that at the end of +the scorpion's tail, and when the bulbous portion of it is pressed, the +poison may be seen oozing out from the point. + +We have also spiders in the south which seize their prey by leaping +upon it from a distance of several inches. When alarmed, they can spring +about a foot away from the object of their own fear. Of this kind there +are several varieties. + +A large reddish spider ('Mygale') obtains its food in a different manner +than either patiently waiting in ambush or by catching it with a bound. +It runs about with great velocity in and out, behind and around every +object, searching for what it may devour, and, from its size and rapid +motions, excites the horror of every stranger. I never knew it to do any +harm except frightening the nervous, and I believe few could look upon +it for the first time without feeling himself in danger. It is named by +the natives "selali", and is believed to be the maker of a hinged cover +for its nest. You see a door, about the size of a shilling, lying beside +a deep hole of nearly similar diameter. The inside of the door lying +upward, and which attracts your notice, is of a pure white silky +substance, like paper. The outer side is coated over with earth, +precisely like that in which the hole is made. If you try to lift it, +you find it is fastened by a hinge on one side, and, if it is turned +over upon the hole, it fits it exactly, and the earthy side being then +uppermost, it is quite impossible to detect the situation of the nest. +Unfortunately, this cavity for breeding is never seen except when the +owner is out, and has left the door open behind her. + +In some parts of the country there are great numbers of a large, +beautiful yellow-spotted spider, the webs of which are about a yard in +diameter. The lines on which these webs are spun are suspended from one +tree to another, and are as thick as coarse thread. The fibres radiate +from a central point, where the insect waits for its prey. The webs are +placed perpendicularly, and a common occurrence in walking is to get the +face enveloped in them as a lady is in a veil. + +Another kind of spider lives in society, and forms so great a collection +of webs placed at every angle, that the trunk of a tree surrounded by +them can not be seen. A piece of hedge is often so hidden by this spider +that the branches are invisible. Another is seen on the inside of the +walls of huts among the Makololo in great abundance. It is round in +shape, spotted, brown in color, and the body half an inch in diameter; +the spread of the legs is an inch and a half. It makes a smooth spot +for itself on the wall, covered with the above-mentioned white silky +substance. There it is seen standing the whole day, and I never could +ascertain how it fed. It has no web, but a carpet, and is a harmless, +though an ugly neighbor. + +Immediately beyond Dilolo there is a large flat about twenty miles in +breadth. Here Shakatwala insisted on our remaining to get supplies of +food from Katema's subjects, before entering the uninhabited watery +plains. When asked the meaning of the name Dilolo, Shakatwala gave the +following account of the formation of the lake. A female chief, called +Moene (lord) Monenga, came one evening to the village of Mosogo, a man +who lived in the vicinity, but who had gone to hunt with his dogs. She +asked for a supply of food, and Mosogo's wife gave her a sufficient +quantity. Proceeding to another village standing on the spot now +occupied by the water, she preferred the same demand, and was not only +refused, but, when she uttered a threat for their niggardliness, was +taunted with the question, "What could she do though she were thus +treated?" In order to show what she could do, she began a song, in slow +time, and uttered her own name, Monenga-wo-o. As she prolonged the +last note, the village, people, fowls, and dogs sank into the space now +called Dilolo. When Kasimakate, the head man of this village, came home +and found out the catastrophe, he cast himself into the lake, and is +supposed to be in it still. The name is derived from "ilolo", despair, +because this man gave up all hope when his family was destroyed. Monenga +was put to death. This may be a faint tradition of the Deluge, and it is +remarkable as the only one I have met with in this country. + +Heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front (N.N.W.) in +one day, and the constant wading among the grass hurt the feet of the +men. There is a footpath all the way across, but as this is worn down +beneath the level of the rest of the plain, it is necessarily the +deepest portion, and the men, avoiding it, make a new walk by its side. +A path, however narrow, is a great convenience, as any one who has +traveled on foot in Africa will admit. The virtual want of it here +caused us to make slow and painful progress. + +Ants surely are wiser than some men, for they learn by experience. They +have established themselves even on these plains, where water stands so +long annually as to allow the lotus, and other aqueous plants, to come +to maturity. When all the ant horizon is submerged a foot deep, they +manage to exist by ascending to little houses built of black tenacious +loam on stalks of grass, and placed higher than the line of inundation. +This must have been the result of experience; for, if they had waited +till the water actually invaded their terrestrial habitations, they +would not have been able to procure materials for their aerial quarters, +unless they dived down to the bottom for every mouthful of clay. Some of +these upper chambers are about the size of a bean, and others as large +as a man's thumb. They must have built in anticipation, and if so, let +us humbly hope that the sufferers by the late inundations in France may +be possessed of as much common sense as the little black ants of the +Dilolo plains. + + + + +Chapter 18. + +The Watershed between the northern and southern Rivers--A deep Valley-- +Rustic Bridge--Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys--Village of +Kabinje--Good Effects of the Belief in the Power of Charms--Demand +for Gunpowder and English Calico--The Kasai--Vexatious Trick--Want +of Food--No Game--Katende's unreasonable Demand--A grave +Offense--Toll-bridge Keeper--Greedy Guides--Flooded Valleys--Swim the +Nyuana Loke--Prompt Kindness of my Men--Makololo Remarks on the rich +uncultivated Valleys--Difference in the Color of Africans--Reach a +Village of the Chiboque--The Head Man's impudent Message--Surrounds our +Encampment with his Warriors--The Pretense--Their Demand--Prospect of +a Fight--Way in which it was averted--Change our Path--Summer-- +Fever--Beehives and the Honey-guide--Instinct of Trees--Climbers--The +Ox Sinbad--Absence of Thorns in the Forests--Plant peculiar to a +forsaken Garden--Bad Guides--Insubordination suppressed--Beset by +Enemies--A Robber Party--More Troubles--Detained by Ionga Panza--His +Village--Annoyed by Bangala Traders--My Men discouraged--Their +Determination and Precaution. + + + +24TH OF FEBRUARY. On reaching unflooded lands beyond the plain, we +found the villages there acknowledged the authority of the chief named +Katende, and we discovered, also, to our surprise, that the almost +level plain we had passed forms the watershed between the southern and +northern rivers, for we had now entered a district in which the rivers +flowed in a northerly direction into the Kasai or Loke, near to which +we now were, while the rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running +southward. Having met with kind treatment and aid at the first +village, Katema's guides returned, and we were led to the N.N.W. by the +inhabitants, and descended into the very first really deep valley we had +seen since leaving Kolobeng. A stream ran along the bottom of a slope of +three or four hundred yards from the plains above. + +We crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged thigh-deep by +the rains. The trees growing along the stream of this lovely valley were +thickly planted and very high. Many had sixty or eighty feet of clean +straight trunk, and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath them. +Ascending the opposite side, we came, in two hours' time, to another +valley, equally beautiful, and with a stream also in its centre. It may +seem mere trifling to note such an unimportant thing as the occurrence +of a valley, there being so many in every country under the sun; but as +these were branches of that in which the Kasai or Loke flows, and both +that river and its feeders derive their water in a singular manner from +the valley sides, I may be excused for calling particular attention to +the more furrowed nature of the country. + +At different points on the slopes of these valleys which we now for the +first time entered, there are oozing fountains, surrounded by clumps of +the same evergreen, straight, large-leaved trees we have noticed along +the streams. These spots are generally covered with a mat of grassy +vegetation, and possess more the character of bogs than of fountains. +They slowly discharge into the stream below, and are so numerous along +both banks as to give a peculiar character to the landscape. These +groups of sylvan vegetation are generally of a rounded form, and the +trunks of the trees are tall and straight, while those on the level +plains above are low and scraggy in their growth. There can be little +doubt but that the water, which stands for months on the plains, soaks +in, and finds its way into the rivers and rivulets by percolating +through the soil, and out by these oozing bogs; and the difference +between the growth of these trees, though they be of different species, +may be a proof that the stuntedness of those on the plains is owing +to being, in the course of each year, more subjected to drought than +moisture. + +Reaching the village of Kabinje, in the evening he sent us a present of +tobacco, Mutokuane or "bang" ('Cannabis sativa'), and maize, by the +man who went forward to announce our arrival, and a message expressing +satisfaction at the prospect of having trade with the coast. The westing +we were making brought us among people who are frequently visited by the +Mambari as slave-dealers. This trade causes bloodshed; for when a poor +family is selected as the victims, it is necessary to get rid of the +older members of it, because they are supposed to be able to give +annoyance to the chief afterward by means of enchantments. The belief +in the power of charms for good or evil produces not only honesty, but +a great amount of gentle dealing. The powerful are often restrained in +their despotism from a fear that the weak and helpless may injure them +by their medical knowledge. They have many fears. A man at one of the +villages we came to showed us the grave of his child, and, with much +apparent feeling, told us she had been burned to death in her hut. He +had come with all his family, and built huts around it in order to weep +for her. He thought, if the grave were left unwatched, the witches would +come and bewitch them by putting medicines on the body. They have a more +decided belief in the continued existence of departed spirits than any +of the more southerly tribes. Even the Barotse possess it in a strong +degree, for one of my men of that tribe, on experiencing headache, said, +with a sad and thoughtful countenance, "My father is scolding me because +I do not give him any of the food I eat." I asked where his father was. +"Among the Barimo," was the reply. + +When we wished to move on, Kabinje refused a guide to the next village +because he was at war with it; but, after much persuasion, he consented, +provided that the guide should be allowed to return as soon as he came +in sight of the enemy's village. This we felt to be a misfortune, as the +people all suspect a man who comes telling his own tale; but there being +no help for it, we went on, and found the head man of a village on the +rivulet Kalomba, called Kangenke, a very different man from what his +enemy represented. We found, too, that the idea of buying and selling +took the place of giving for friendship. As I had nothing with which to +purchase food except a parcel of beads which were preserved for worse +times, I began to fear that we should soon be compelled to suffer more +from hunger than we had done. The people demanded gunpowder for every +thing. If we had possessed any quantity of that article, we should have +got on well, for here it is of great value. On our return, near +this spot we found a good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of +gunpowder. Next to that, English calico was in great demand, and so were +beads; but money was of no value whatever. Gold is quite unknown; it +is thought to be brass; trade is carried on by barter alone. The people +know nothing of money. A purse-proud person would here feel the ground +move from beneath his feet. Occasionally a large piece of copper, in the +shape of a St. Andrew's cross, is offered for sale. + +FEBRUARY 27TH. Kangenke promptly furnished guides this morning, so +we went briskly on a short distance, and came to a part of the Kasye, +Kasai, or Loke, where he had appointed two canoes to convey us across. +This is a most beautiful river, and very much like the Clyde in +Scotland. The slope of the valley down to the stream is about five +hundred yards, and finely wooded. It is, perhaps, one hundred yards +broad, and was winding slowly from side to side in the beautiful green +glen, in a course to the north and northeast. In both the directions +from which it came and to which it went it seemed to be alternately +embowered in sylvan vegetation, or rich meadows covered with tall grass. +The men pointed out its course, and said, "Though you sail along it for +months, you will turn without seeing the end of it." + +While at the ford of the Kasai we were subjected to a trick, of which we +had been forewarned by the people of Shinte. A knife had been dropped by +one of Kangenke's people in order to entrap my men; it was put down near +our encampment, as if lost, the owner in the mean time watching till one +of my men picked it up. Nothing was said until our party was divided, +one half on this, and the other on that bank of the river. Then the +charge was made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife. Certain of +my people's honesty, I desired the man, who was making a great noise, to +search the luggage for it; the unlucky lad who had taken the bait then +came forward and confessed that he had the knife in a basket, which was +already taken over the river. When it was returned, the owner would not +receive it back unless accompanied with a fine. The lad offered beads, +but these were refused with scorn. A shell hanging round his neck, +similar to that which Shinte had given me, was the object demanded, and +the victim of the trick, as we all knew it to be, was obliged to part +with his costly ornament. I could not save him from the loss, as all had +been forewarned; and it is the universal custom among the Makololo and +many other tribes to show whatever they may find to the chief person of +their company, and make a sort of offer of it to him. This lad ought to +have done so to me; the rest of the party always observed this custom. I +felt annoyed at the imposition, but the order we invariably followed in +crossing a river forced me to submit. The head of the party remained to +be ferried over last; so, if I had not come to terms, I would have been, +as I always was in crossing rivers which we could not swim, completely +in the power of the enemy. It was but rarely we could get a head man so +witless as to cross a river with us, and remain on the opposite bank +in a convenient position to be seized as a hostage in case of my being +caught. + +This trick is but one of a number equally dishonorable which are +practiced by tribes that lie adjacent to the more civilized settlements. +The Balonda farther east told us, by way of warning, that many parties +of the more central tribes had at various periods set out, in order to +trade with the white men themselves, instead of through the Mambari, but +had always been obliged to return without reaching their destination, in +consequence of so many pretexts being invented by the tribes encountered +in the way for fining them of their ivory. + +This ford was in 11d 15' 47" S. latitude, but the weather was so +excessively cloudy we got no observation for longitude. + +We were now in want of food, for, to the great surprise of my +companions, the people of Kangenke gave nothing except by way of sale, +and charged the most exorbitant prices for the little meal and manioc +they brought. The only article of barter my men had was a little fat +saved from the ox we slaughtered at Katema's, so I was obliged to give +them a portion of the stock of beads. One day (29th) of westing brought +us from the Kasai to near the village of Katende, and we saw that we +were in a land where no hope could be entertained of getting supplies of +animal food, for one of our guides caught a light-blue colored mole and +two mice for his supper. The care with which he wrapped them up in a +leaf and slung them on his spear told that we could not hope to enjoy +any larger game. We saw no evidence of any animals besides; and, on +coming to the villages beyond this, we often saw boys and girls engaged +in digging up these tiny quadrupeds. + +Katende sent for me on the day following our arrival, and, being quite +willing to visit him, I walked, for this purpose, about three miles from +our encampment. When we approached the village we were desired to enter +a hut, and, as it was raining at the time, we did so. After a long time +spent in giving and receiving messages from the great man, we were told +that he wanted either a man, a tusk, beads, copper rings, or a shell, as +payment for leave to pass through his country. No one, we were assured, +was allowed that liberty, or even to behold him, without something of +the sort being presented. Having humbly explained our circumstances, and +that he could not expect to "catch a humble cow by the horns"--a proverb +similar to ours that "you can't draw milk out of a stone"--we were told +to go home, and he would speak again to us next day. I could not avoid +a hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage, and made the best +of my way home in the still pouring rain. My men were rather nettled at +this want of hospitality, but, after talking over the matter with one of +Katende's servants, he proposed that some small article should be given, +and an attempt made to please Katende. I turned out my shirts, and +selected the worst one as a sop for him, and invited Katende to come and +choose any thing else I had, but added that, when I should reach my own +chief naked, and was asked what I had done with my clothes, I should +be obliged to confess that I had left them with Katende. The shirt was +dispatched to him, and some of my people went along with the servant; +they soon returned, saying that the shirt had been accepted, and guides +and food too would be sent to us next day. The chief had, moreover, +expressed a hope to see me on my return. He is reported to be very +corpulent. The traders who have come here seem to have been very timid, +yielding to every demand made on the most frivolous pretenses. One of my +men, seeing another much like an acquaintance at home, addressed him by +the name of the latter in sport, telling him, at the same time, why +he did so; this was pronounced to be a grave offense, and a large fine +demanded; when the case came before me I could see no harm in what had +been done, and told my people not to answer the young fellow. The latter +felt himself disarmed, for it is chiefly in a brawl they have power; +then words are spoken in anger which rouse the passions of the +complainant's friends. In this case, after vociferating some time, the +would-be offended party came and said to my man that, if they exchanged +some small gift, all would be right, but, my man taking no notice of +him, he went off rather crestfallen. + +My men were as much astonished as myself at the demand for payment +for leave to pass, and the almost entire neglect of the rules of +hospitality. Katende gave us only a little meal and manioc, and a fowl. +Being detained two days by heavy rains, we felt that a good stock of +patience was necessary in traveling through this country in the rainy +season. + +Passing onward without seeing Katende, we crossed a small rivulet, the +Sengko, by which we had encamped, and after two hours came to another, +the Totelo, which was somewhat larger, and had a bridge over it. At the +farther end of this structure stood a negro, who demanded fees. He said +the bridge was his; the path his; the guides were his children; and +if we did not pay him he would prevent farther progress. This piece of +civilization I was not prepared to meet, and stood a few seconds looking +at our bold toll-keeper, when one of my men took off three copper +bracelets, which paid for the whole party. The negro was a better man +than he at first seemed, for he immediately went to his garden and +brought us some leaves of tobacco as a present. + +When we had got fairly away from the villages, the guides from Kangenke +sat down and told us that there were three paths in front, and, if we +did not at once present them with a cloth, they would leave us to take +whichever we might like best. As I had pointed out the direction in +which Loanda lay, and had only employed them for the sake of knowing the +paths between villages which lay along our route, and always objected +when they led us in any other than the Loanda direction, I wished my +men now to go on without the guides, trusting to ourselves to choose +the path which would seem to lead us in the direction we had always +followed. But Mashauana, fearing lest we might wander, asked leave to +give his own cloth, and when the guides saw that, they came forward +shouting "Averie, Averie!" + +In the afternoon of this day we came to a valley about a mile wide, +filled with clear, fast-flowing water. The men on foot were chin deep in +crossing, and we three on ox-back got wet to the middle, the weight of +the animals preventing them from swimming. A thunder-shower descending +completed the partial drenching of the plain, and gave a cold, +uncomfortable "packing in a wet blanket" that night. Next day we found +another flooded valley about half a mile wide, with a small and now +deep rivulet in its middle, flowing rapidly to the S.S.E., or toward +the Kasai. The middle part of this flood, being the bed of what at other +times is the rivulet, was so rapid that we crossed by holding on to the +oxen, and the current soon dashed them to the opposite bank; we then +jumped off, and, the oxen being relieved of their burdens, we could pull +them on to the shallower part. The rest of the valley was thigh deep and +boggy, but holding on by the belt which fastened the blanket to the ox, +we each floundered through the nasty slough as well as we could. These +boggy parts, lying parallel to the stream, were the most extensive we +had come to: those mentioned already were mere circumscribed patches; +these extended for miles along each bank; but even here, though the +rapidity of the current was very considerable, the thick sward of grass +was "laid" flat along the sides of the stream, and the soil was not +abraded so much as to discolor the flood. When we came to the opposite +side of this valley, some pieces of the ferruginous conglomerate, which +forms the capping to all other rocks in a large district around and +north of this, cropped out, and the oxen bit at them as if surprised +by the appearance of stone as much as we were; or it may have contained +some mineral of which they stood in need. We had not met with a stone +since leaving Shinte's. The country is covered with deep alluvial soil +of a dark color and very fertile. + +In the afternoon we came to another stream, nyuana Loke (or child of +Loke), with a bridge over it. The men had to swim off to each end of the +bridge, and when on it were breast deep; some preferred holding on by +the tails of the oxen the whole way across. I intended to do this too; +but, riding to the deep part, before I could dismount and seize the helm +the ox dashed off with his companions, and his body sank so deep that I +failed in my attempt even to catch the blanket belt, and if I pulled the +bridle the ox seemed as if he would come backward upon me, so I struck +out for the opposite bank alone. My poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed +when they saw me parted from the cattle, and about twenty of them made +a simultaneous rush into the water for my rescue, and just as I reached +the opposite bank one seized my arm, and another threw his around my +body. When I stood up, it was most gratifying to see them all struggling +toward me. Some had leaped off the bridge, and allowed their cloaks to +float down the stream. Part of my goods, abandoned in the hurry, were +brought up from the bottom after I was safe. Great was the pleasure +expressed when they found that I could swim, like themselves, without +the aid of a tail, and I did and do feel grateful to these poor heathens +for the promptitude with which they dashed in to save, as they thought, +my life. I found my clothes cumbersome in the water; they could swim +quicker from being naked. They swim like dogs, not frog-fashion, as we +do. + +In the evening we crossed the small rivulet Lozeze, and came to some +villages of the Kasabi, from whom we got some manioc in exchange for +beads. They tried to frighten us by telling of the deep rivers we should +have to cross in our way. I was drying my clothes by turning myself +round and round before the fire. My men laughed at the idea of being +frightened by rivers. "We can all swim: who carried the white man across +the river but himself?" I felt proud of their praise. + +SATURDAY, 4TH MARCH. Came to the outskirts of the territory of the +Chiboque. We crossed the Konde and Kaluze rivulets. The former is a +deep, small stream with a bridge, the latter insignificant; the valleys +in which these rivulets run are beautifully fertile. My companions +are continually lamenting over the uncultivated vales in such words as +these: "What a fine country for cattle! My heart is sore to see such +fruitful valleys for corn lying waste." At the time these words were +put down I had come to the belief that the reason why the inhabitants of +this fine country possess no herds of cattle was owing to the despotic +sway of their chiefs, and that the common people would not be allowed to +keep any domestic animals, even supposing they could acquire them; but +on musing on the subject since, I have been led to the conjecture that +the rich, fertile country of Londa must formerly have been infested by +the tsetse, but that, as the people killed off the game on which, in the +absence of man, the tsetse must subsist, the insect was starved out of +the country. It is now found only where wild animals abound, and the +Balonda, by the possession of guns, having cleared most of the country +of all the large game, we may have happened to come just when it was +possible to admit of cattle. Hence the success of Katema, Shinte, and +Matiamvo with their herds. It would not be surprising, though they +know nothing of the circumstance; a tribe on the Zambesi, which I +encountered, whose country was swarming with tsetse, believed that they +could not keep any cattle, because "no one loved them well enough to +give them the medicine of oxen;" and even the Portuguese at Loanda +accounted for the death of the cattle brought from the interior to the +sea-coast by the prejudicial influence of the sea air! One ox, which +I took down to the sea from the interior, died at Loanda, with all +the symptoms of the poison injected by tsetse, which I saw myself in a +district a hundred miles from the coast. + +While at the villages of the Kasabi we saw no evidences of want of food +among the people. Our beads were very valuable, but cotton cloth would +have been still more so; as we traveled along, men, women, and children +came running after us, with meal and fowls for sale, which we would +gladly have purchased had we possessed any English manufactures. When +they heard that we had no cloth, they turned back much disappointed. + +The amount of population in the central parts of the country may be +called large only as compared with the Cape Colony or the Bechuana +country. The cultivated land is as nothing compared with what might be +brought under the plow. There are flowing streams in abundance, which, +were it necessary, could be turned to the purpose of irrigation with but +little labor. Miles of fruitful country are now lying absolutely waste, +for there is not even game to eat off the fine pasturage, and to recline +under the evergreen, shady groves which we are ever passing in our +progress. The people who inhabit the central region are not all quite +black in color. Many incline to that of bronze, and others are as light +in hue as the Bushmen, who, it may be remembered, afford a proof that +heat alone does not cause blackness, but that heat and moisture combined +do very materially deepen the color. Wherever we find people who have +continued for ages in a hot, humid district, they are deep black, but to +this apparent law there are exceptions, caused by the migrations of both +tribes and individuals; the Makololo, for instance, among the tribes +of the humid central basin, appear of a sickly sallow hue when compared +with the aboriginal inhabitants; the Batoka also, who lived in an +elevated region, are, when seen in company with the Batoka of the +rivers, so much lighter in color, they might be taken for another tribe; +but their language, and the very marked custom of knocking out the upper +front teeth, leave no room for doubt that they are one people. + +Apart from the influences of elevation, heat, humidity, and degradation, +I have imagined that the lighter and darker colors observed in the +native population run in five longitudinal bands along the southern +portion of the continent. Those on the seaboard of both the east and +west are very dark; then two bands of lighter color lie about three +hundred miles from each coast, of which the westerly one, bending +round, embraces the Kalahari Desert and Bechuana countries; and then +the central basin is very dark again. This opinion is not given with +any degree of positiveness. It is stated just as it struck my mind in +passing across the country, and if incorrect, it is singular that the +dialects spoken by the different tribes have arranged themselves in a +fashion which seems to indicate migration along the lines of color. The +dialects spoken in the extreme south, whether Hottentot or Caffre, bear +a close affinity to those of the tribes living immediately on their +northern borders; one glides into the other, and their affinities are so +easily detected that they are at once recognized to be cognate. If the +dialects of extreme points are compared, as that of the Caffres and the +tribes near the equator, it is more difficult to recognize the fact, +which is really the case, that all the dialects belong to but two +families of languages. Examination of the roots of the words of the +dialects, arranged in geographical order, shows that they merge into +each other, and there is not nearly so much difference between the +extremes of east and west as between those of north and south, the +dialect spoken at Tete resembling closely that in Angola. + +Having, on the afore-mentioned date, reached the village of Njambi, one +of the chiefs of the Chiboque, we intended to pass a quiet Sunday; and +our provisions being quite spent, I ordered a tired riding-ox to be +slaughtered. As we wished to be on good terms with all, we sent the hump +and ribs to Njambi, with the explanation that this was the customary +tribute to chiefs in the part from which we had come, and that we always +honored men in his position. He returned thanks, and promised to send +food. Next morning he sent an impudent message, with a very small +present of meal; scorning the meat he had accepted, he demanded either +a man, an ox, a gun, powder, cloth, or a shell; and in the event of +refusal to comply with his demand, he intimated his intention to prevent +our further progress. We replied, we should have thought ourselves fools +if we had scorned his small present, and demanded other food instead; +and even supposing we had possessed the articles named, no black man +ought to impose a tribute on a party that did not trade in slaves. The +servants who brought the message said that, when sent to the Mambari, +they had always got a quantity of cloth from them for their master, and +now expected the same, or something else as an equivalent, from me. + +We heard some of the Chiboque remark, "They have only five guns;" +and about midday, Njambi collected all his people, and surrounded our +encampment. Their object was evidently to plunder us of every thing. My +men seized their javelins, and stood on the defensive, while the young +Chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them with great fury. +Some even pointed their guns at me, and nodded to each other, as much as +to say, "This is the way we shall do with him." I sat on my camp-stool, +with my double-barreled gun across my knees, and invited the chief to +be seated also. When he and his counselors had sat down on the ground in +front of me, I asked what crime we had committed that he had come armed +in that way. He replied that one of my men, Pitsane, while sitting at +the fire that morning, had, in spitting, allowed a small quantity of the +saliva to fall on the leg of one of his men, and this "guilt" he wanted +to be settled by the fine of a man, ox, or gun. Pitsane admitted the +fact of a little saliva having fallen on the Chiboque, and in proof of +its being a pure accident, mentioned that he had given the man a piece +of meat, by way of making friends, just before it happened, and wiped it +off with his hand as soon as it fell. In reference to a man being given, +I declared that we were all ready to die rather than give up one of our +number to be a slave; that my men might as well give me as I give one +of them, for we were all free men. "Then you can give the gun with which +the ox was shot." As we heard some of his people remarking even now that +we had only "five guns", we declined, on the ground that, as they were +intent on plundering us, giving a gun would be helping them to do so. + +This they denied, saying they wanted the customary tribute only. I asked +what right they had to demand payment for leave to tread on the ground +of God, our common Father. If we trod on their gardens, we would pay, +but not for marching on land which was still God's, and not theirs. They +did not attempt to controvert this, because it is in accordance with +their own ideas, but reverted again to the pretended crime of the +saliva. + +My men now entreated me to give something; and after asking the chief +if he really thought the affair of the spitting a matter of guilt, and +receiving an answer in the affirmative, I gave him one of my shirts. +The young Chiboque were dissatisfied, and began shouting and brandishing +their swords for a greater fine. + +As Pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this disagreeable affair, +he asked me to add something else. I gave a bunch of beads, but the +counselors objected this time, so I added a large handkerchief. The +more I yielded, the more unreasonable their demands became, and at every +fresh demand a shout was raised by the armed party, and a rush made +around us with brandishing of arms. One young man made a charge at my +head from behind, but I quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to +his mouth, and he retreated. I pointed him out to the chief, and he +ordered him to retire a little. I felt anxious to avoid the effusion +of blood; and though sure of being able, with my Makololo, who had been +drilled by Sebituane, to drive off twice the number of our assailants, +though now a large body, and well armed with spears, swords, arrows, and +guns, I strove to avoid actual collision. My men were quite unprepared +for this exhibition, but behaved with admirable coolness. The chief +and counselors, by accepting my invitation to be seated, had placed +themselves in a trap, for my men very quietly surrounded them, and made +them feel that there was no chance of escaping their spears. I then +said that, as one thing after another had failed to satisfy them, it +was evident that THEY wanted to fight, while WE only wanted to pass +peaceably through the country; that they must begin first, and bear +the guilt before God: we would not fight till they had struck the first +blow. I then sat silent for some time. It was rather trying for me, +because I knew that the Chiboque would aim at the white man first; but +I was careful not to appear flurried, and, having four barrels ready for +instant action, looked quietly at the savage scene around. The Chiboque +countenance, by no means handsome, is not improved by the practice +which they have adopted of filing the teeth to a point. The chief and +counselors, seeing that they were in more danger than I, did not choose +to follow our decision that they should begin by striking the first +blow, and then see what we could do, and were perhaps influenced by +seeing the air of cool preparation which some of my men displayed at the +prospect of a work of blood. + +The Chiboque at last put the matter before us in this way: "You come +among us in a new way, and say you are quite friendly: how can we know +it unless you give us some of your food, and you take some of ours? If +you give us an ox, we will give you whatever you may wish, and then we +shall be friends." In accordance with the entreaties of my men, I gave +an ox; and when asked what I should like in return, mentioned food as +the thing which we most needed. In the evening Njambi sent us a very +small basket of meal, and two or three pounds of the flesh of our own +ox! with the apology that he had no fowls, and very little of any other +food. It was impossible to avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous +creatures. I was truly thankful, nevertheless, that, though resolved to +die rather than deliver up one of our number to be a slave, we had so +far gained our point as to be allowed to pass on without having shed +human blood. + +In the midst of the commotion, several Chiboque stole pieces of meat +out of the sheds of my people, and Mohorisi, one of the Makololo, went +boldly into the crowd and took back a marrow-bone from one of them. +A few of my Batoka seemed afraid, and would perhaps have fled had the +affray actually begun, but, upon the whole, I thought my men behaved +admirably. They lamented having left their shields at home by command +of Sekeletu, who feared that, if they carried these, they might be more +disposed to be overbearing in their demeanor to the tribes we should +meet. We had proceeded on the principles of peace and conciliation, and +the foregoing treatment shows in what light our conduct was viewed; in +fact, we were taken for interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of +the tribe. They had been accustomed to get a slave or two from every +slave-trader who passed them, and now that we disputed the right, they +viewed the infringement on what they considered lawfully due with most +virtuous indignation. + +MARCH 6TH. We were informed that the people on the west of the Chiboque +of Njambi were familiar with the visits of slave-traders; and it was the +opinion of our guides from Kangenke that so many of my companions would +be demanded from me, in the same manner as the people of Njambi had +done, that I should reach the coast without a single attendant; I +therefore resolved to alter our course and strike away to the N.N.E., +in the hope that at some point farther north I might find an exit to the +Portuguese settlement of Cassange. We proceeded at first due north, with +the Kasabi villages on our right, and the Kasau on our left. During +the first twenty miles we crossed many small, but now swollen streams, +having the usual boggy banks, and wherever the water had stood for any +length of time it was discolored with rust of iron. We saw a "nakong" +antelope one day, a rare sight in this quarter; and many new and pretty +flowers adorned the valleys. We could observe the difference in the +seasons in our northing in company with the sun. Summer was now nearly +over at Kuruman, and far advanced at Linyanti, but here we were in the +middle of it; fruits, which we had eaten ripe on the Leeambye, were here +quite green; but we were coming into the region where the inhabitants +are favored with two rainy seasons and two crops, i.e., when the sun is +going south, and when he comes back on his way to the north, as was the +case at present. + +On the 8th, one of the men had left an ounce or two of powder at our +sleeping-place, and went back several miles for it. My clothing being +wet from crossing a stream, I was compelled to wait for him; had I been +moving in the sun I should have felt no harm, but the inaction led to +a violent fit of fever. The continuance of this attack was a source of +much regret, for we went on next day to a small rivulet called Chihune, +in a lovely valley, and had, for a wonder, a clear sky and a clear moon; +but such was the confusion produced in my mind by the state of my body, +that I could scarcely manage, after some hours' trial, to get a lunar +observation in which I could repose confidence. The Chihune flows into +the Longe, and that into the Chihombo, a feeder of the Kasai. Those who +know the difficulties of taking altitudes, times, and distances, and +committing all of them to paper, will sympathize with me in this and +many similar instances. While at Chihune, the men of a village brought +wax for sale, and, on finding that we wished honey, went off and soon +brought a hive. All the bees in the country are in possession of the +natives, for they place hives sufficient for them all. After having +ascertained this, we never attended the call of the honey-guide, for +we were sure it would only lead us to a hive which we had no right to +touch. The bird continues its habit of inviting attention to the honey, +though its services in this district are never actually needed. My +Makololo lamented that they never knew before that wax could be sold for +any thing of value. + +As we traverse a succession of open lawns and deep forests, it is +interesting to observe something like instinct developed even in trees. +One which, when cut, emits a milky juice, if met with on the open lawns, +grows as an ordinary umbrageous tree, and shows no disposition to be +a climber; when planted in a forest it still takes the same form, then +sends out a climbing branch, which twines round another tree until it +rises thirty or forty feet, or to the level of the other trees, and +there spreads out a second crown where it can enjoy a fair share of +the sun's rays. In parts of the forest still more dense than this, it +assumes the form of a climber only, and at once avails itself of the +assistance of a tall neighbor by winding vigorously round it, without +attempting to form a lower head. It does not succeed so well as +parasites proper, but where forced to contend for space it may be +mistaken for one which is invariably a climber. The paths here were very +narrow and very much encumbered with gigantic creepers, often as thick +as a man's leg. There must be some reason why they prefer, in some +districts, to go up trees in the common form of the thread of a screw +rather than in any other. On the one bank of the Chihune they appeared +to a person standing opposite them to wind up from left to right, on +the other bank from right to left. I imagined this was owing to the sun +being at one season of the year on their north and at another on their +south. But on the Leeambye I observed creepers winding up on opposite +sides of the same reed, and making a figure like the lacings of a +sandal. + +In passing through these narrow paths I had an opportunity of observing +the peculiarities of my ox "Sinbad". He had a softer back than the +others, but a much more intractable temper. His horns were bent downward +and hung loosely, so he could do no harm with them; but as we wended our +way slowly along the narrow path, he would suddenly dart aside. A string +tied to a stick put through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of +a bridle: if you jerk this back, it makes him run faster on; if you +pull it to one side, he allows the nose and head to go, but keeps the +opposite eye directed to the forbidden spot, and goes in spite of you. +The only way he can be brought to a stand is by a stroke with a wand +across the nose. When Sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the +path so low that I could not stoop under it, I was dragged off and came +down on the crown of my head; and he never allowed an opportunity of the +kind to pass without trying to inflict a kick, as if I neither had nor +deserved his love. + +A remarkable peculiarity in the forests of this country is the absence +of thorns: there are but two exceptions; one a tree bearing a species of +'nux vomica', and a small shrub very like the plant of the sarsaparilla, +bearing, in addition to its hooked thorns, bunches of yellow berries. +The thornlessness of the vegetation is especially noticeable to those +who have been in the south, where there is so great a variety of +thorn-bearing plants and trees. We have thorns of every size and shape; +thorns straight, thin and long, short and thick, or hooked, and so +strong as to be able to cut even leather like a knife. Seed-vessels are +scattered every where by these appendages. One lies flat as a shilling +with two thorns in its centre, ready to run into the foot of any animal +that treads upon it, and stick there for days together. Another (the +'Uncaria procumbens', or Grapple-plant) has so many hooked thorns as to +cling most tenaciously to any animal to which it may become attached; +when it happens to lay hold of the mouth of an ox, the animal stands and +roars with pain and a sense of helplessness. + +Whenever a part of the forest has been cleared for a garden, and +afterward abandoned, a species of plant, with leaves like those of +ginger, springs up, and contends for the possession of the soil with a +great crop of ferns. This is the case all the way down to Angola, and +shows the great difference of climate between this and the Bechuana +country, where a fern, except one or two hardy species, is never seen. +The plants above mentioned bear a pretty pink flower close to the +ground, which is succeeded by a scarlet fruit full of seeds, yielding, +as so many fruits in this country do, a pleasant acid juice, which, +like the rest, is probably intended as a corrective to the fluids of the +system in the hot climate. + +On leaving the Chihune we crossed the Longe, and, as the day was cloudy, +our guides wandered in a forest away to the west till we came to the +River Chihombo, flowing to the E.N.E. My men depended so much on the +sun for guidance that, having seen nothing of the luminary all day, they +thought we had wandered back to the Chiboque, and, as often happens when +bewildered, they disputed as to the point where the sun should rise next +morning. As soon as the rains would allow next day, we went off to the +N.E. It would have been better to have traveled by compass alone, for +the guides took advantage of any fears expressed by my people, and +threatened to return if presents were not made at once. But my men had +never left their own country before except for rapine and murder. +When they formerly came to a village they were in the habit of killing +numbers of the inhabitants, and then taking a few young men to serve as +guides to the next place. As this was their first attempt at an opposite +line of conduct, and as they were without their shields, they felt +defenseless among the greedy Chiboque, and some allowance must be made +for them on that account. + +SATURDAY, 11TH. Reached a small village on the banks of a narrow stream. +I was too ill to go out of my little covering except to quell a mutiny +which began to show itself among some of the Batoka and Ambonda of our +party. They grumbled, as they often do against their chiefs, when they +think them partial in their gifts, because they supposed that I had +shown a preference in the distribution of the beads; but the beads I +had given to my principal men were only sufficient to purchase a scanty +meal, and I had hastened on to this village in order to slaughter a +tired ox, and give them all a feast as well as a rest on Sunday, as +preparation for the journey before us. I explained this to them, and +thought their grumbling was allayed. I soon sank into a state of stupor, +which the fever sometimes produced, and was oblivious to all their noise +in slaughtering. On Sunday the mutineers were making a terrible din in +preparing a skin they had procured. I requested them twice, by the man +who attended me, to be more quiet, as the noise pained me; but as +they paid no attention to this civil request, I put out my head, and, +repeating it myself, was answered by an impudent laugh. Knowing that +discipline would be at an end if this mutiny were not quelled, and +that our lives depended on vigorously upholding authority, I seized a +double-barreled pistol, and darted forth from the domicile, looking, +I suppose, so savage as to put them to a precipitate flight. As some +remained within hearing, I told them that I must maintain discipline, +though at the expense of some of their limbs; so long as we traveled +together they must remember that I was master, and not they. There being +but little room to doubt my determination, they immediately became very +obedient, and never afterward gave me any trouble, or imagined that they +had any right to my property. + +13TH. We went forward some miles, but were brought to a stand by the +severity of my fever on the banks of a branch of the Loajima, another +tributary of the Kasai. I was in a state of partial coma until late at +night, when it became necessary for me to go out; and I was surprised +to find that my men had built a little stockade, and some of them took +their spears and acted as a guard. I found that we were surrounded by +enemies, and a party of Chiboque lay near the gateway, after having +preferred the demand of "a man, an ox, a gun, or a tusk." My men had +prepared for defense in case of a night attack, and when the Chiboque +wished to be shown where I lay sick, they very properly refused to point +me out. In the morning I went out to the Chiboque, and found that they +answered me civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country, +teaching them, etc., etc. They admitted that their chiefs would be +pleased with the prospect of friendship, and now only wished to exchange +tokens of good-will with me, and offered three pigs, which they hoped I +would accept. The people here are in the habit of making a present, and +then demanding whatever they choose in return. We had been forewarned of +this by our guides, so I tried to decline, by asking if they would eat +one of the pigs in company with us. To this proposition they said that +they durst not accede. I then accepted the present in the hope that +the blame of deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me, and +presented a razor, two bunches of beads, and twelve copper rings, +contributed by my men from their arms. They went off to report to their +chief; and as I was quite unable to move from excessive giddiness, we +continued in the same spot on Tuesday evening, when they returned with +a message couched in very plain terms, that a man, tusk, gun, or even +an ox, alone would be acceptable; that he had every thing else in his +possession but oxen, and that, whatever I should please to demand from +him, he would gladly give it. As this was all said civilly, and +there was no help for it if we refused but bloodshed, I gave a tired +riding-ox. My late chief mutineer, an Ambonda man, was now over-loyal, +for he armed himself and stood at the gateway. He would rather die than +see his father imposed on; but I ordered Mosantu to take him out of the +way, which he did promptly, and allowed the Chiboque to march off well +pleased with their booty. I told my men that I esteemed one of their +lives of more value than all the oxen we had, and that the only cause +which could induce me to fight would be to save the lives and liberties +of the majority. In the propriety of this they all agreed, and said +that, if the Chiboque molested us who behaved so peaceably, the +guilt would be on their heads. This is a favorite mode of expression +throughout the whole country. All are anxious to give explanation of any +acts they have performed, and conclude the narration with, "I have no +guilt or blame" ("molatu"). "They have the guilt." I never could be +positive whether the idea in their minds is guilt in the sight of the +Deity, or of mankind only. + +Next morning the robber party came with about thirty yards of strong +striped English calico, an axe, and two hoes for our acceptance, and +returned the copper rings, as the chief was a great man, and did not +need the ornaments of my men, but we noticed that they were taken back +again. I divided the cloth among my men, and pleased them a little by +thus compensating for the loss of the ox. I advised the chief, whose +name we did not learn, as he did not deign to appear except under the +alias Matiamvo, to get cattle for his own use, and expressed sorrow +that I had none wherewith to enable him to make a commencement. Rains +prevented our proceeding till Thursday morning, and then messengers +appeared to tell us that their chief had learned that all the cloth sent +by him had not been presented; that the copper rings had been secreted +by the persons ordered to restore them to us, and that he had stripped +the thievish emissaries of their property as a punishment. Our guides +thought these were only spies of a larger party, concealed in the forest +through which we were now about to pass. We prepared for defense by +marching in a compact body, and allowing no one to straggle far behind +the others. We marched through many miles of gloomy forest in gloomier +silence, but nothing disturbed us. We came to a village, and found +all the men absent, the guides thought, in the forest, with their +countrymen. I was too ill to care much whether we were attacked or not. +Though a pouring rain came on, as we were all anxious to get away out +of a bad neighborhood, we proceeded. The thick atmosphere prevented my +seeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them; so Pitsane, Mohorisi, +and I, who alone were mounted, were often caught; and as there is no +stopping the oxen when they have the prospect of giving the rider a +tumble, we came frequently to the ground. In addition to these mishaps, +Sinbad went off at a plunging gallop, the bridle broke, and I came down +backward on the crown of my head. He gave me a kick on the thigh at the +same time. I felt none the worse for this rough treatment, but would +not recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever! This +last attack of fever was so obstinate that it reduced me almost to a +skeleton. The blanket which I used as a saddle on the back of the ox, +being frequently wet, remained so beneath me even in the hot sun, and, +aided by the heat of the ox, caused extensive abrasion of the +skin, which was continually healing and getting sore again. To this +inconvenience was now added the chafing of my projecting bones on the +hard bed. + +On Friday we came to a village of civil people on the banks of the +Loajima itself, and we were wet all day in consequence of crossing it. +The bridges over it, and another stream which we crossed at midday, were +submerged, as we have hitherto invariably found, by a flood of perfectly +clear water. At the second ford we were met by a hostile party who +refused us further passage. I ordered my men to proceed in the same +direction we had been pursuing, but our enemies spread themselves out in +front of us with loud cries. Our numbers were about equal to theirs +this time, so I moved on at the head of my men. Some ran off to +other villages, or back to their own village, on pretense of getting +ammunition; others called out that all traders came to them, and that we +must do the same. As these people had plenty of iron-headed arrows and +some guns, when we came to the edge of the forest I ordered my men to +put the luggage in our centre; and, if our enemies did not fire, to cut +down some young trees and make a screen as quickly as possible, but do +nothing to them except in case of actual attack. I then dismounted, and, +advancing a little toward our principal opponent, showed him how easily +I could kill him, but pointed upward, saying, "I fear God." He did the +same, placing his hand on his heart, pointing upward, and saying, "I +fear to kill; but come to our village; come--do come." At this juncture, +the old head man, Ionga Panza, a venerable negro, came up, and I invited +him and all to be seated, that we might talk the matter over. Ionga +Panza soon let us know that he thought himself very ill treated in being +passed by. As most skirmishes arise from misunderstanding, this might +have been a serious one; for, like all the tribes near the Portuguese +settlements, people here imagine that they have a right to demand +payment from every one who passes through the country; and now, though +Ionga Panza was certainly no match for my men, yet they were determined +not to forego their right without a struggle. I removed with my men +to the vicinity of the village, thankful that no accident had as yet +brought us into actual collision. + +The reason why the people have imbibed the idea so strongly that they +have a right to demand payment for leave to pass through the country is +probably this. They have seen no traders except those either engaged +in purchasing slaves, or who have slaves in their employment. These +slave-traders have always been very much at the mercy of the chiefs +through whose country they have passed; for if they afforded a ready +asylum for runaway slaves, the traders might be deserted at any moment, +and stripped of their property altogether. They are thus obliged to +curry favor with the chiefs, so as to get a safe conduct from them. The +same system is adopted to induce the chiefs to part with their people, +whom all feel to be the real source of their importance in the country. +On the return of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves, +it is so easy for a chief who may be so disposed to take away a chain of +eight or ten unresisting slaves, that the merchant is fain to give any +amount of presents in order to secure the good-will of the rulers. The +independent chiefs, not knowing why their favor is so eagerly sought, +become excessively proud and supercilious in their demands, and look +upon white men with the greatest contempt. To such lengths did the +Bangala, a tribe near to which we had now approached, proceed a few +years ago, that they compelled the Portuguese traders to pay for water, +wood, and even grass, and every possible pretext was invented for +levying fines; and these were patiently submitted to so long as the +slave-trade continued to flourish. We had unconsciously come in contact +with a system which was quite unknown in the country from which my men +had set out. An English trader may there hear a demand for payment of +guides, but never, so far as I am aware, is he asked to pay for leave +to traverse a country. The idea does not seem to have entered the native +mind, except through slave-traders, for the aborigines all acknowledge +that the untilled land, not needed for pasturage, belongs to God alone, +and that no harm is done by people passing through it. I rather believe +that, wherever the slave-trade has not penetrated, the visits of +strangers are esteemed a real privilege. + +The village of old Ionga Panza (lat. 10d 25' S., long. 20d 15' E.) is +small, and embowered in lofty evergreen trees, which were hung around +with fine festoons of creepers. He sent us food immediately, and soon +afterward a goat, which was considered a handsome gift, there being but +few domestic animals, though the country is well adapted for them. I +suspect this, like the country of Shinte and Katema, must have been a +tsetse district, and only recently rendered capable of supporting +other domestic animals besides the goat, by the destruction of the game +through the extensive introduction of fire-arms. We might all have been +as ignorant of the existence of this insect plague as the Portuguese, +had it not been for the numerous migrations of pastoral tribes which +took place in the south in consequence of Zulu irruptions. + +During these exciting scenes I always forgot my fever, but a terrible +sense of sinking came back with the feeling of safety. The same demand +of payment for leave to pass was made on the 20th by old Ionga Panza +as by the other Chiboque. I offered the shell presented by Shinte, but +Ionga Panza said he was too old for ornaments. We might have succeeded +very well with him, for he was by no means unreasonable, and had but +a very small village of supporters; but our two guides from Kangenke +complicated our difficulties by sending for a body of Bangala traders, +with a view to force us to sell the tusks of Sekeletu, and pay them with +the price. We offered to pay them handsomely if they would perform their +promise of guiding us to Cassange, but they knew no more of the paths +than we did; and my men had paid them repeatedly, and tried to get rid +of them, but could not. They now joined with our enemies, and so did the +traders. Two guns and some beads belonging to the latter were standing +in our encampment, and the guides seized them and ran off. As my men +knew that we should be called upon to replace them, they gave chase, and +when the guides saw that they would be caught, they threw down the guns, +directed their flight to the village, and rushed into a hut. The doorway +is not much higher than that of a dog's kennel. One of the guides was +reached by one of my men as he was in the act of stooping to get in, and +a cut was inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have +made any one in that posture wince. The guns were restored, but the +beads were lost in the flight. All I had remaining of my stock of beads +could not replace those lost; and though we explained that we had no +part in the guilt of the act, the traders replied that we had brought +the thieves into the country; these were of the Bangala, who had been +accustomed to plague the Portuguese in the most vexatious way. We were +striving to get a passage through the country, and, feeling anxious that +no crime whatever should be laid to our charge, tried the conciliatory +plan here, though we were not, as in the other instances, likely to be +overpowered by numbers. + +My men offered all their ornaments, and I offered all my beads and +shirts; but, though we had come to the village against our will, and the +guides had also followed us contrary to our desire, and had even sent +for the Bangala traders without our knowledge or consent, yet matters +could not be arranged without our giving an ox and one of the tusks. +We were all becoming disheartened, and could not wonder that native +expeditions from the interior to the coast had generally failed to reach +their destinations. My people were now so much discouraged that some +proposed to return home; the prospect of being obliged to return when +just on the threshold of the Portuguese settlements distressed me +exceedingly. After using all my powers of persuasion, I declared to them +that if they returned I would go on alone, and went into my little tent +with the mind directed to Him who hears the sighing of the soul, and was +soon followed by the head of Mohorisi, saying, "We will never leave you. +Do not be disheartened. Wherever you lead we will follow. Our remarks +were made only on account of the injustice of these people." Others +followed, and with the most artless simplicity of manner told me to be +comforted--"they were all my children; they knew no one but Sekeletu +and me, and they would die for me; they had not fought because I did +not wish it; they had just spoken in the bitterness of their spirit, and +when feeling that they could do nothing; but if these enemies begin you +will see what we can do." One of the oxen we offered to the Chiboque had +been rejected because he had lost part of his tail, as they thought that +it had been cut off and witchcraft medicine inserted; and some mirth was +excited by my proposing to raise a similar objection to all the oxen +we still had in our possession. The remaining four soon presented a +singular shortness of their caudal extremities, and though no one ever +asked whether they had medicine in the stumps or no, we were no more +troubled by the demand for an ox! We now slaughtered another ox, that +the spectacle might not be seen of the owners of the cattle fasting +while the Chiboque were feasting. + + + + +Chapter 19. + +Guides prepaid--Bark Canoes--Deserted by Guides--Mistakes respecting +the Coanza--Feelings of freed Slaves--Gardens and Villages--Native +Traders--A Grave--Valley of the Quango--Bamboo--White Larvae used as +Food--Bashinje Insolence--A posing Question--The Chief Sansawe--His +Hostility--Pass him safely--The River Quango--Chief's mode of +dressing his Hair--Opposition--Opportune Aid by Cypriano--His generous +Hospitality--Ability of Half-castes to read and write--Books and +Images--Marauding Party burned in the Grass--Arrive at Cassange--A good +Supper--Kindness of Captain Neves--Portuguese Curiosity and Questions-- +Anniversary of the Resurrection--No Prejudice against Color--Country +around Cassange--Sell Sekeletu's Ivory--Makololo's Surprise at the +high Price obtained--Proposal to return Home, and Reasons-- +Soldier-guide--Hill Kasala--Tala Mungongo, Village of--Civility +of Basongo--True Negroes--A Field of Wheat-- +Carriers--Sleeping-places--Fever--Enter District of Ambaca--Good Fruits +of Jesuit Teaching--The 'Tampan'; its Bite--Universal Hospitality of +the Portuguese--A Tale of the Mambari--Exhilarating Effects of +Highland Scenery--District of Golungo Alto--Want of good +Roads--Fertility--Forests of gigantic Timber--Native Carpenters--Coffee +Estate--Sterility of Country near the Coast--Mosquitoes--Fears of the +Makololo--Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to Loanda. + + + +24TH. Ionga Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into the territory of +the Portuguese if I would give them the shell given by Shinte. I was +strongly averse to this, and especially to give it beforehand, but +yielded to the entreaty of my people to appear as if showing confidence +in these hopeful youths. They urged that they wished to leave the +shell with their wives, as a sort of payment to them for enduring their +husbands' absence so long. Having delivered the precious shell, we went +west-by-north to the River Chikapa, which here (lat. 10d 22' S.) is +forty or fifty yards wide, and at present was deep; it was seen flowing +over a rocky, broken cataract with great noise about half a mile above +our ford. We were ferried over in a canoe, made out of a single piece +of bark sewed together at the ends, and having sticks placed in it at +different parts to act as ribs. The word Chikapa means bark or skin; and +as this is the only river in which we saw this kind of canoe used, and +we heard that this stream is so low during most of the year as to be +easily fordable, it probably derives its name from the use made of the +bark canoes when it is in flood. We now felt the loss of our pontoon, +for the people to whom the canoe belonged made us pay once when we began +to cross, then a second time when half of us were over, and a third time +when all were over but my principal man Pitsane and myself. Loyanke took +off his cloth and paid my passage with it. The Makololo always ferried +their visitors over rivers without pay, and now began to remark that +they must in future fleece the Mambari as these Chiboque had done to us; +they had all been loud in condemnation of the meanness, and when I asked +if they could descend to be equally mean, I was answered that they +would only do it in revenge. They like to have a plausible excuse for +meanness. + +Next morning our guides went only about a mile, and then told us they +would return home. I expected this when paying them beforehand, in +accordance with the entreaties of the Makololo, who are rather ignorant +of the world. Very energetic remonstrances were addressed to the guides, +but they slipped off one by one in the thick forest through which +we were passing, and I was glad to hear my companions coming to the +conclusion that, as we were now in parts visited by traders, we did not +require the guides, whose chief use had been to prevent misapprehension +of our objects in the minds of the villagers. The country was somewhat +more undulating now than it had been, and several fine small streams +flowed in deep woody dells. The trees are very tall and straight, and +the forests gloomy and damp; the ground in these solitudes is quite +covered with yellow and brown mosses, and light-colored lichens clothe +all the trees. The soil is extremely fertile, being generally a black +loam covered with a thick crop of tall grasses. We passed several +villages too. The head man of a large one scolded us well for passing, +when he intended to give us food. Where slave-traders have been in the +habit of coming, they present food, then demand three or four times its +value as a custom. We were now rather glad to get past villages without +intercourse with the inhabitants. + +We were traveling W.N.W., and all the rivulets we here crossed had a +northerly course, and were reported to fall into the Kasai or Loke; most +of them had the peculiar boggy banks of the country. As we were now in +the alleged latitude of the Coanza, I was much astonished at the +entire absence of any knowledge of that river among the natives of +this quarter. But I was then ignorant of the fact that the Coanza rises +considerably to the west of this, and has a comparatively short course +from its source to the sea. + +The famous Dr. Lacerda seems to have labored under the same mistake as +myself, for he recommended the government of Angola to establish a chain +of forts along the banks of that river, with a view to communication +with the opposite coast. As a chain of forts along its course would lead +southward instead of eastward, we may infer that the geographical data +within reach of that eminent man were no better than those according to +which I had directed my course to the Coanza where it does not exist. + +26TH. We spent Sunday on the banks of the Quilo or Kweelo, here a stream +of about ten yards wide. It runs in a deep glen, the sides of which are +almost five hundred yards of slope, and rocky, the rocks being hardened +calcareous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below, with a capping +of ferruginous conglomerate. The scenery would have been very +pleasing, but fever took away much of the joy of life, and severe daily +intermittents rendered me very weak and always glad to recline. + +As we were now in the slave-market, it struck me that the sense of +insecurity felt by the natives might account for the circumstance that +those who have been sold as slaves and freed again, when questioned, +profess to like the new state better than their primitive one. They +lived on rich, fertile plains, which seldom inspire that love of country +which the mountains do. If they had been mountaineers, they would have +pined for home. To one who has observed the hard toil of the poor in old +civilized countries, the state in which the inhabitants here live is one +of glorious ease. The country is full of little villages. Food abounds, +and very little labor is required for its cultivation; the soil is so +rich that no manure is required; when a garden becomes too poor for good +crops of maize, millet, etc., the owner removes a little farther into +the forest, applies fire round the roots of the larger trees to kill +them, cuts down the smaller, and a new, rich garden is ready for the +seed. The gardens usually present the appearance of a large number of +tall, dead trees standing without bark, and maize growing between them. +The old gardens continue to yield manioc for years after the owners +have removed to other spots for the sake of millet and maize. But, while +vegetable aliment is abundant, there is a want of salt and animal food, +so that numberless traps are seen, set for mice, in all the forests of +Londa. The vegetable diet leaves great craving for flesh, and I have no +doubt but that, when an ordinary quantity of mixed food is supplied to +freed slaves, they actually do feel more comfortable than they did at +home. Their assertions, however, mean but little, for they always try to +give an answer to please, and if one showed them a nugget of gold, they +would generally say that these abounded in their country. + +One could detect, in passing, the variety of character found among +the owners of gardens and villages. Some villages were the pictures of +neatness. We entered others enveloped in a wilderness of weeds, so high +that, when sitting on ox-back in the middle of the village, we could +only see the tops of the huts. If we entered at midday, the owners +would come lazily forth, pipe in hand, and leisurely puff away in dreamy +indifference. In some villages weeds are not allowed to grow; cotton, +tobacco, and different plants used as relishes are planted round the +huts; fowls are kept in cages, and the gardens present the pleasant +spectacle of different kinds of grain and pulse at various periods of +their growth. I sometimes admired the one class, and at times wished I +could have taken the world easy for a time like the other. Every village +swarms with children, who turn out to see the white man pass, and run +along with strange cries and antics; some run up trees to get a good +view: all are agile climbers throughout Londa. At friendly villages they +have scampered alongside our party for miles at a time. We usually made +a little hedge around our sheds; crowds of women came to the entrance of +it, with children on their backs, and long pipes in their mouths, gazing +at us for hours. The men, rather than disturb them, crawled through a +hole in the hedge, and it was common to hear a man in running off say +to them, "I am going to tell my mamma to come and see the white man's +oxen." + +In continuing our W.N.W. course, we met many parties of native traders, +each carrying some pieces of cloth and salt, with a few beads to +barter for bees'-wax. They are all armed with Portuguese guns, and have +cartridges with iron balls. When we meet we usually stand a few minutes. +They present a little salt, and we give a bit of ox-hide, or some other +trifle, and then part with mutual good wishes. The hide of the oxen we +slaughtered had been a valuable addition to our resources, for we found +it in so great repute for girdles all through Loanda that we cut up +every skin into strips about two inches broad, and sold them for meal +and manioc as we went along. As we came nearer Angola we found them of +less value, as the people there possess cattle themselves. + +The village on the Kweelo, at which we spent Sunday, was that of a +civil, lively old man, called Sakandala, who offered no objections to +our progress. We found we should soon enter on the territory of the +Bashinje (Chinge of the Portuguese), who are mixed with another tribe, +named Bangala, which have been at war with the Babindele or Portuguese. +Rains and fever, as usual, helped to impede our progress until we were +put on the path which leads from Cassange and Bihe to Matiamvo, by a +head man named Kamboela. This was a well-beaten footpath, and soon after +entering upon it we met a party of half-caste traders from Bihe, who +confirmed the information we had already got of this path leading +straight to Cassange, through which they had come on their way from Bihe +to Cabango. They kindly presented my men with some tobacco, and marveled +greatly when they found that I had never been able to teach myself to +smoke. On parting with them we came to a trader's grave. This was marked +by a huge cone of sticks placed in the form of the roof of a hut, with +a palisade around it. At an opening on the western side an ugly idol was +placed: several strings of beads and bits of cloth were hung around. We +learned that he had been a half-caste, who had died on his way back from +Matiamvo. + +As we were now alone, and sure of being on the way to the abodes of +civilization, we went on briskly. + +On the 30th we came to a sudden descent from the high land, indented +by deep, narrow valleys, over which we had lately been traveling. It is +generally so steep that it can only be descended at particular points, +and even there I was obliged to dismount, though so weak that I had to +be led by my companions to prevent my toppling over in walking down. It +was annoying to feel myself so helpless, for I never liked to see a man, +either sick or well, giving in effeminately. Below us lay the valley of +the Quango. If you sit on the spot where Mary Queen of Scots viewed the +battle of Langside, and look down on the vale of Clyde, you may see +in miniature the glorious sight which a much greater and richer valley +presented to our view. It is about a hundred miles broad, clothed with +dark forest, except where the light green grass covers meadow-lands on +the Quango, which here and there glances out in the sun as it wends its +way to the north. The opposite side of this great valley appears like a +range of lofty mountains, and the descent into it about a mile, which, +measured perpendicularly, may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet. +Emerging from the gloomy forests of Londa, this magnificent prospect +made us all feel as if a weight had been lifted off our eyelids. A cloud +was passing across the middle of the valley, from which rolling thunder +pealed, while above all was glorious sunlight; and when we went down +to the part where we saw it passing, we found that a very heavy +thunder-shower had fallen under the path of the cloud; and the bottom +of the valley, which from above seemed quite smooth, we discovered to be +intersected and furrowed by great numbers of deep-cut streams. Looking +back from below, the descent appears as the edge of a table-land, with +numerous indented dells and spurs jutting out all along, giving it a +serrated appearance. Both the top and sides of the sierra are covered +with trees, but large patches of the more perpendicular parts are bare, +and exhibit the red soil, which is general over the region we have now +entered. + +The hollow affords a section of this part of the country; and we find +that the uppermost stratum is the ferruginous conglomerate already +mentioned. The matrix is rust of iron (or hydrous peroxide of iron and +hematite), and in it are imbedded water-worn pebbles of sandstone and +quartz. As this is the rock underlying the soil of a large part of +Londa, its formation must have preceded the work of denudation by an +arm of the sea, which washed away the enormous mass of matter required +before the valley of Cassange could assume its present form. The strata +under the conglomerate are all of red clay shale of different degrees of +hardness, the most indurated being at the bottom. This red clay shale +is named "keele" in Scotland, and has always been considered as an +indication of gold; but the only thing we discovered was that it had +given rise to a very slippery clay soil, so different from that which +we had just left that Mashauana, who always prided himself on being an +adept at balancing himself in the canoe on water, and so sure of foot on +land that he could afford to express contempt for any one less gifted, +came down in a very sudden and undignified manner, to the delight of all +whom he had previously scolded for falling. + +Here we met with the bamboo as thick as a man's arm, and many new trees. +Others, which we had lost sight of since leaving Shinte, now reappeared; +but nothing struck us more than the comparative scragginess of the +trees in this hollow. Those on the high lands we had left were tall +and straight; here they were stunted, and not by any means so closely +planted together. The only way I could account for this was by +supposing, as the trees were of different species, that the greater +altitude suited the nature of those above better than the lower altitude +did the other species below. + +SUNDAY, APRIL 2D. We rested beside a small stream, and our hunger being +now very severe, from having lived on manioc alone since leaving Ionza +Panza's, we slaughtered one of our four remaining oxen. The people of +this district seem to feel the craving for animal food as much as we +did, for they spend much energy in digging large white larvae out of the +damp soil adjacent to their streams, and use them as a relish to their +vegetable diet. The Bashinje refused to sell any food for the poor old +ornaments my men had now to offer. We could get neither meal nor manioc, +but should have been comfortable had not the Bashinje chief Sansawe +pestered us for the customary present. The native traders informed us +that a display of force was often necessary before they could pass this +man. + +Sansawe, the chief of a portion of the Bashinje, having sent the usual +formal demand for a man, an ox, or a tusk, spoke very contemptuously of +the poor things we offered him instead. We told his messengers that the +tusks were Sekeletu's: every thing was gone except my instruments, which +could be of no use to them whatever. One of them begged some meat, and, +when it was refused, said to my men, "You may as well give it, for we +shall take all after we have killed you to-morrow." The more humbly we +spoke, the more insolent the Bashinje became, till at last we were all +feeling savage and sulky, but continued to speak as civilly as we could. +They are fond of argument, and when I denied their right to demand +tribute from a white man, who did not trade in slaves, an old +white-headed negro put rather a posing question: "You know that God has +placed chiefs among us whom we ought to support. How is it that you, who +have a book that tells you about him, do not come forward at once to pay +this chief tribute like every one else?" I replied by asking, "How could +I know that this was a chief, who had allowed me to remain a day and a +half near him without giving me any thing to eat?" This, which to the +uninitiated may seem sophistry, was to the Central Africans quite a +rational question, for he at once admitted that food ought to have been +sent, and added that probably his chief was only making it ready for me, +and that it would come soon. + +After being wearied by talking all day to different parties sent by +Sansawe, we were honored by a visit from himself: he is quite a young +man, and of rather a pleasing countenance. There can not have been much +intercourse between real Portuguese and these people even here, so close +to the Quango, for Sansawe asked me to show him my hair, on the ground +that, though he had heard of it, and some white men had even passed +through his country, he had never seen straight hair before. This is +quite possible, as most of the slave-traders are not Portuguese, but +half-castes. The difference between their wool and our hair caused +him to burst into a laugh, and the contrast between the exposed and +unexposed parts of my skin, when exhibited in evidence of our all being +made of one stock originally, and the children of one Maker, seemed to +strike him with wonder. I then showed him my watch, and wished to win my +way into his confidence by conversation; but, when about to exhibit +my pocket compass, he desired me to desist, as he was afraid of my +wonderful things. I told him, if he knew my aims as the tribes in the +interior did, and as I hoped he would yet know them and me, he would be +glad to stay, and see also the pictures of the magic lantern; but, as +it was now getting dark, he had evidently got enough of my witchery, +and began to use some charms to dispel any kindly feelings he might have +found stealing round his heart. He asked leave to go, and when his party +moved off a little way, he sent for my spokesman, and told him that, "if +we did not add a red jacket and a man to our gift of a few copper rings +and a few pounds of meat, we must return by the way we had come." I +said in reply "that we should certainly go forward next day, and if he +commenced hostilities, the blame before God would be that of Sansawe;" +and my man added of his own accord, "How many white men have you killed +in this path?" which might be interpreted into, "You have never killed +any white man, and you will find ours more difficult to manage than you +imagine." It expressed a determination, which we had often repeated to +each other, to die rather than yield one of our party to be a slave. + +Hunger has a powerful effect on the temper. When we had got a good meal +of meat, we could all bear the petty annoyances of these borderers on +the more civilized region in front with equanimity; but having suffered +considerably of late, we were all rather soured in our feelings, and not +unfrequently I overheard my companions remark in their own tongue, in +answer to threats of attack, "That's what we want: only begin then;" or +with clenched teeth they would exclaim to each other, "These things have +never traveled, and do not know what men are." The worrying, of which +I give only a slight sketch, had considerable influence on my own mind, +and more especially as it was impossible to make any allowance for the +Bashinje, such as I was willing to award to the Chiboque. They saw that +we had nothing to give, nor would they be benefited in the least by +enforcing the impudent order to return whence we had come. They were +adding insult to injury, and this put us all into a fighting spirit, +and, as nearly as we could judge, we expected to be obliged to cut our +way through the Bashinje next morning. + +3D APRIL. As soon as day dawned we were astir, and, setting off in a +drizzling rain, passed close to the village. This rain probably damped +the ardor of the robbers. We, however, expected to be fired upon from +every clump of trees, or from some of the rocky hillocks among which we +were passing; and it was only after two hours' march that we began to +breathe freely, and my men remarked, in thankfulness, "We are children +of Jesus." We continued our course, notwithstanding the rain, across the +bottom of the Quango Valley, which we found broken by clay shale rocks +jutting out, though lying nearly horizontally. The grass in all the +hollows, at this time quite green, was about two feet higher than my +head while sitting on ox-back. This grass, wetted by the rain, acted as +a shower-bath on one side of our bodies; and some deep gullies, full of +DISCOLORED water, completed the cooling process. We passed many villages +during this drenching, one of which possessed a flock of sheep; and +after six hours we came to a stand near the River Quango (lat. 9d +53' S., long. 18d 37' E.), which may be called the boundary of the +Portuguese claims to territory on the west. As I had now no change of +clothing, I was glad to cower under the shelter of my blanket, thankful +to God for his goodness in bringing us so far without losing one of the +party. + +4TH APRIL. We were now on the banks of the Quango, a river one hundred +and fifty yards wide, and very deep. The water was discolored--a +circumstance which we had observed in no river in Londa or in the +Makololo country. This fine river flows among extensive meadows clothed +with gigantic grass and reeds, and in a direction nearly north. + +The Quango is said by the natives to contain many venomous water-snakes, +which congregate near the carcass of any hippopotamus that may be killed +in it. If this is true, it may account for all the villages we saw being +situated far from its banks. We were advised not to sleep near it; but, +as we were anxious to cross to the western side, we tried to induce some +of the Bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose. This brought out the +chief of these parts, who informed us that all the canoe-men were his +children, and nothing could be done without his authority. He then made +the usual demand for a man, an ox, or a gun, adding that otherwise we +must return to the country from which we had come. As I did not believe +that this man had any power over the canoes of the other side, and +suspected that if I gave him my blanket--the only thing I now had in +reserve--he might leave us in the lurch after all, I tried to persuade +my men to go at once to the bank, about two miles off, and obtain +possession of the canoes before we gave up the blanket; but they thought +that this chief might attack us in the act of crossing, should we do so. +The chief came himself to our encampment and made his demand again. My +men stripped off the last of their copper rings and gave them; but he +was still intent on a man. He thought, as others did, that my men were +slaves. He was a young man, with his woolly hair elaborately dressed: +that behind was made up into a cone, about eight inches in diameter +at the base, carefully swathed round with red and black thread. As I +resisted the proposal to deliver up my blanket until they had placed us +on the western bank, this chief continued to worry us with his demands +till I was tired. My little tent was now in tatters, and having a wider +hole behind than the door in front, I tried in vain to lie down out of +sight of our persecutors. We were on a reedy flat, and could not follow +our usual plan of a small stockade, in which we had time to think over +and concoct our plans. As I was trying to persuade my men to move on +to the bank in spite of these people, a young half-caste Portuguese +sergeant of militia, Cypriano di Abreu, made his appearance, and gave +the same advice. He had come across the Quango in search of bees'-wax. +When we moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us, his people +opened a fire from our sheds, and continued to blaze away some time in +the direction we were going, but none of the bullets reached us. It +is probable that they expected a demonstration of the abundance of +ammunition they possessed would make us run; but when we continued +to move quietly to the ford, they proceeded no farther than our +sleeping-place. Cypriano assisted us in making a more satisfactory +arrangement with the ferrymen than parting with my blanket; and as soon +as we reached the opposite bank we were in the territory of the Bangala, +who are subjects of the Portuguese, and often spoken of as the Cassanges +or Cassantse; and happily all our difficulties with the border tribes +were at an end. + +Passing with light hearts through the high grass by a narrow footpath +for about three miles to the west of the river, we came to several neat +square houses, with many cleanly-looking half-caste Portuguese standing +in front of them to salute us. They are all enrolled in the militia, and +our friend Cypriano is the commander of a division established here. +The Bangala were very troublesome to the Portuguese traders, and at last +proceeded so far as to kill one of them; the government of Angola then +sent an expedition against them, which being successful, the Bangala +were dispersed, and are now returning to their former abodes as +vassals. The militia are quartered among them, and engage in trade and +agriculture for their support, as no pay is given to this branch of the +service by the government. + +We came to the dwelling of Cypriano after dark, and I pitched my little +tent in front of it for the night. We had the company of mosquitoes +here. We never found them troublesome on the banks of the pure streams +of Londa. On the morning of the 5th Cypriano generously supplied my +men with pumpkins and maize, and then invited me to breakfast, which +consisted of ground-nuts and roasted maize, then boiled manioc roots +and ground-nuts, with guavas and honey as a dessert. I felt sincerely +grateful for this magnificent breakfast. + +At dinner Cypriano was equally bountiful, and several of his friends +joined us in doing justice to his hospitality. Before eating, all had +water poured on the hands by a female slave to wash them. One of the +guests cut up a fowl with a knife and fork. Neither forks nor spoons +were used in eating. The repast was partaken of with decency and good +manners, and concluded by washing the hands as at first. + +All of them could read and write with ease. I examined the books they +possessed, and found a small work on medicine, a small cyclopaedia, and +a Portuguese dictionary, in which the definition of a "priest" seemed +strange to a Protestant, namely, "one who takes care of the conscience." +They had also a few tracts containing the Lives of the Saints, and +Cypriano had three small wax images of saints in his room. One of these +was St. Anthony, who, had he endured the privations he did in his cell +in looking after these lost sheep, would have lived to better purpose. +Neither Cypriano nor his companions knew what the Bible was, but they +had relics in German-silver cases hung round their necks, to act as +charms and save them from danger by land or by water, in the same way as +the heathen have medicines. It is a pity that the Church to which they +belong, when unable to attend to the wants of her children, does not +give them the sacred writings in their own tongue; it would surely be +better to see them good Protestants, if these would lead them to be so, +than entirely ignorant of God's message to man. For my part, I would +much prefer to see the Africans good Roman Catholics than idolatrous +heathen. + +Much of the civility shown to us here was, no doubt, owing to the +flattering letters of recommendation I carried from the Chevalier Du +Prat, of Cape Town; but I am inclined to believe that my friend Cypriano +was influenced, too, by feelings of genuine kindness, for he quite bared +his garden in feeding us during the few days which I remained, anxiously +expecting the clouds to disperse, so far as to allow of my taking +observations for the determination of the position of the Quango. He +slaughtered an ox for us, and furnished his mother and her maids with +manioc roots, to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey +to Cassange, and never even hinted at payment. My wretched appearance +must have excited his compassion. The farina is prepared by washing +the roots well, then rasping them down to a pulp. Next, this is roasted +slightly on a metal plate over a fire, and is then used with meat as +a vegetable. It closely resembles wood-sawings, and on that account +is named "wood-meal". It is insipid, and employed to lick up any gravy +remaining on one's plate. Those who have become accustomed to it relish +it even after they have returned to Europe. + +The manioc cultivated here is of the sweet variety; the bitter, to which +we were accustomed in Londa, is not to be found very extensively in +this fertile valley. May is the beginning of winter, yet many of the +inhabitants were busy planting maize; that which we were now eating was +planted in the beginning of February. The soil is exceedingly fertile, +of a dark red color, and covered with such a dense, heavy crop of coarse +grass, that when a marauding party of Ambonda once came for plunder +while it was in a dried state, the Bangala encircled the common enemy +with a fire which completely destroyed them. This, which is related on +the authority of Portuguese who were then in the country, I can easily +believe to be true, for the stalks of the grass are generally as thick +as goose-quills, and no flight could be made through the mass of grass +in any direction where a footpath does not exist. Probably, in the case +mentioned, the direction of the wind was such as to drive the flames +across the paths, and prevent escape along them. On one occasion I +nearly lost my wagon by fire, in a valley where the grass was only about +three feet high. We were roused by the roar, as of a torrent, made by +the fire coming from the windward. I immediately set fire to that on our +leeward, and had just time to drag the wagon on to the bare space there +before the windward flames reached the place where it had stood. + +We were detained by rains and a desire to ascertain our geographical +position till Monday, the 10th, and only got the latitude 9d 50' S.; +and, after three days' pretty hard traveling through the long grass, +reached Cassange, the farthest inland station of the Portuguese in +Western Africa. We crossed several fine little streams running into +the Quango; and as the grass continued to tower about two feet over our +heads, it generally obstructed our view of the adjacent country, and +sometimes hung over the path, making one side of the body wet with the +dew every morning, or, when it rained, kept me wet during the whole day. +I made my entrance in a somewhat forlorn state as to clothing among our +Portuguese allies. The first gentleman I met in the village asked if +I had a passport, and said it was necessary to take me before the +authorities. As I was in the same state of mind in which individuals are +who commit a petty depredation in order to obtain the shelter and food +of a prison, I gladly accompanied him to the house of the commandant or +Chefe, Senhor de Silva Rego. Having shown my passport to this gentleman, +he politely asked me to supper, and, as we had eaten nothing except +the farina of Cypriano from the Quango to this, I suspect I appeared +particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen around the table. They +seemed, however, to understand my position pretty well, from having all +traveled extensively themselves; had they not been present, I might have +put some in my pocket to eat by night; for, after fever, the appetite +is excessively keen, and manioc is one of the most unsatisfying kinds of +food. Captain Antonio Rodrigues Neves then kindly invited me to take +up my abode in his house. Next morning this generous man arrayed me in +decent clothing, and continued during the whole period of my stay to +treat me as if I had been his brother. I feel deeply grateful to him for +his disinterested kindness. He not only attended to my wants, but also +furnished food for my famishing party free of charge. + +The village of Cassange (pronounced Kassanje) is composed of thirty or +forty traders' houses, scattered about without any regularity, on an +elevated flat spot in the great Quango or Cassange valley. They are +built of wattle and daub, and surrounded by plantations of manioc, +maize, etc. Behind them there are usually kitchen gardens, in which +the common European vegetables, as potatoes, peas, cabbages, onions, +tomatoes, etc., etc., grow. Guavas and bananas appear, from the size and +abundance of the trees, to have been introduced many years ago, while +the land was still in the possession of the natives; but pine-apples, +orange, fig, and cashew trees have but lately been tried. There are +about forty Portuguese traders in this district, all of whom are +officers in the militia, and many of them have become rich from adopting +the plan of sending out Pombeiros, or native traders, with large +quantities of goods, to trade in the more remote parts of the country. +Some of the governors of Loanda, the capital of this, the kingdom of +Angola, have insisted on the observance of a law which, from motives +of humanity, forbids the Portuguese themselves from passing beyond the +boundary. They seem to have taken it for granted that, in cases where +the white trader was killed, the aggression had been made by him, and +they wished to avoid the necessity of punishing those who had been +provoked to shed Portuguese blood. This indicates a much greater +impartiality than has obtained in our own dealings with the Caffres, for +we have engaged in most expensive wars with them without once inquiring +whether any of the fault lay with our frontier colonists. The Cassange +traders seem inclined to spread along the Quango, in spite of the desire +of their government to keep them on one spot, for mutual protection in +case of war. If I might judge from the week of feasting I passed among +them, they are generally prosperous. + +As I always preferred to appear in my own proper character, I was an +object of curiosity to these hospitable Portuguese. They evidently +looked upon me as an agent of the English government, engaged in some +new movement for the suppression of slavery. They could not divine what +a "missionario" had to do with the latitudes and longitudes, which I was +intent on observing. When we became a little familiar, the questions put +were rather amusing: "Is it common for missionaries to be doctors?" "Are +you a doctor of medicine and a 'doutor mathematico' too? You must be +more than a missionary to know how to calculate the longitude! Come, +tell us at once what rank you hold in the English army." They may have +given credit to my reason for wearing the mustache, as that explains why +men have beards and women have none; but that which puzzled many besides +my Cassange friends was the anomaly of my being a "sacerdote", with +a wife and four children! I usually got rid of the last question by +putting another: "Is it not better to have children with a wife, than +to have children without a wife?" But all were most kind and hospitable; +and as one of their festivals was near, they invited me to partake of +the feast. + +The anniversary of the Resurrection of our Savior was observed on the +16th of April as a day of rejoicing, though the Portuguese have no +priests at Cassange. The colored population dressed up a figure intended +to represent Judas Iscariot, and paraded him on a riding-ox about the +village; sneers and maledictions were freely bestowed on the poor wretch +thus represented. The slaves and free colored population, dressed in +their gayest clothing, made visits to all the principal merchants, and +wishing them "a good feast", expected a present in return. This, though +frequently granted in the shape of pieces of calico to make new dresses, +was occasionally refused, but the rebuff did not much affect the +petitioner. + +At ten A.M. we went to the residence of the commandant, and on a signal +being given, two of the four brass guns belonging to the government +commenced firing, and continued some time, to the great admiration of +my men, whose ideas of the power of a cannon are very exalted. The +Portuguese flag was hoisted and trumpets sounded, as an expression +of joy at the resurrection of our Lord. Captain Neves invited all the +principal inhabitants of the place, and did what he could to feast them +in a princely style. All manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine +from Portugal, biscuits from America, butter from Cork, and beer +from England, were displayed, and no expense spared in rendering the +entertainment joyous. After the feast was over they sat down to the +common amusement of card-playing, which continued till eleven o'clock at +night. As far as a mere traveler could judge, they seemed to be polite +and willing to aid each other. They live in a febrile district, and +many of them had enlarged spleens. They have neither doctor, apothecary, +school, nor priest, and, when taken ill, trust to each other and to +Providence. As men left in such circumstances must think for themselves, +they have all a good idea of what ought to be done in the common +diseases of the country, and what they have of either medicine or skill +they freely impart to each other. + +None of these gentlemen had Portuguese wives. They usually come to +Africa in order to make a little money, and return to Lisbon. Hence +they seldom bring their wives with them, and never can be successful +colonists in consequence. It is common for them to have families +by native women. It was particularly gratifying to me, who had been +familiar with the stupid prejudice against color, entertained only by +those who are themselves becoming tawny, to view the liberality with +which people of color were treated by the Portuguese. Instances, so +common in the South, in which half-caste children are abandoned, are +here extremely rare. They are acknowledged at table, and provided for by +their fathers as if European. The colored clerks of the merchants sit at +the same table with their employers without any embarrassment. The civil +manners of superiors to inferiors is probably the result of the position +they occupy--a few whites among thousands of blacks; but nowhere else in +Africa is there so much good-will between Europeans and natives as here. +If some border colonists had the absolute certainty of our government +declining to bear them out in their arrogance, we should probably hear +less of Caffre insolence. It is insolence which begets insolence. + +From the village of Cassange we have a good view of the surrounding +country: it is a gently undulating plain, covered with grass and patches +of forest. The western edge of the Quango valley appears, about twenty +miles off, as if it were a range of lofty mountains, and passes by the +name of Tala Mungongo, "Behold the Range". In the old Portuguese map, to +which I had been trusting in planning my route, it is indicated as Talla +Mugongo, or "Castle of Rocks!" and the Coanza is put down as rising +therefrom; but here I was assured that the Coanza had its source near +Bihe, far to the southwest of this, and we should not see that river +till we came near Pungo Andonga. It is somewhat remarkable that more +accurate information about this country has not been published. Captain +Neves and others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers, and +communicated their knowledge freely; yet about this time maps were sent +to Europe from Angola representing the Quango and Coanza as the same +river, and Cassange placed about one hundred miles from its true +position. The frequent recurrence of the same name has probably helped +to increase the confusion. I have crossed several Quangos, but all +insignificant, except that which drains this valley. The repetition of +the favorite names of chiefs, as Catende, is also perplexing, as one +Catende may be mistaken for another. To avoid this confusion as much +as possible, I have refrained from introducing many names. Numerous +villages are studded all over the valley; but these possess no +permanence, and many more existed previous to the Portuguese expedition +of 1850 to punish the Bangala. + +This valley, as I have before remarked, is all fertile in the extreme. +My men could never cease admiring its capability for raising their corn +('Holcus sorghum'), and despising the comparatively limited cultivation +of the inhabitants. The Portuguese informed me that no manure is ever +needed, but that, the more the ground is tilled, the better it yields. +Virgin soil does not give such a heavy crop as an old garden, and, +judging from the size of the maize and manioc in the latter, I can +readily believe the statement. Cattle do well, too. Viewing the valley +as a whole, it may be said that its agricultural and pastoral riches +are lying waste. Both the Portuguese and their descendants turn their +attention almost exclusively to trade in wax and ivory, and though the +country would yield any amount of corn and dairy produce, the native +Portuguese live chiefly on manioc, and the Europeans purchase their +flour, bread, butter, and cheese from the Americans. + +As the traders of Cassange were the first white men we had come to, we +sold the tusks belonging to Sekeletu, which had been brought to test the +difference of prices in the Makololo and white men's country. The result +was highly satisfactory to my companions, as the Portuguese give much +larger prices for ivory than traders from the Cape can possibly give, +who labor under the disadvantage of considerable overland expenses and +ruinous restrictions. Two muskets, three small barrels of gunpowder, and +English calico and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party, with large +bunches of beads, all for one tusk, were quite delightful for those who +had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun. With another tusk we +procured calico, which here is the chief currency, to pay our way down +to the coast. The remaining two were sold for money to purchase a horse +for Sekeletu at Loanda. + +The superiority of this new market was quite astounding to the Makololo, +and they began to abuse the traders by whom they had, while in their own +country, been visited, and, as they now declared, "cheated". They had +no idea of the value of time and carriage, and it was somewhat difficult +for me to convince them that the reason of the difference of prices lay +entirely in what they themselves had done in coming here, and that, if +the Portuguese should carry goods to their country, they would by no +means be so liberal in their prices. They imagined that, if the Cassange +traders came to Linyanti, they would continue to vend their goods at +Cassange prices. I believe I gave them at last a clear idea of the +manner in which prices were regulated by the expenses incurred; and when +we went to Loanda, and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate, they +concluded that it would be better for them to come to that city, than to +turn homeward at Cassange. + +It was interesting for me to observe the effects of the restrictive +policy pursued by the Cape government toward the Bechuanas. Like all +other restrictions on trade, the law of preventing friendly tribes from +purchasing arms and ammunition only injures the men who enforce it. The +Cape government, as already observed, in order to gratify a company of +independent Boers, whose well-known predilection for the practice of +slavery caused them to stipulate that a number of peaceable, honest +tribes should be kept defenseless, agreed to allow free trade in +arms and ammunition to the Boers, and prevent the same trade to the +Bechuanas. The Cape government thereby unintentionally aided, and +continues to aid, the Boers to enslave the natives. But arms and +ammunition flow in on all sides by new channels, and where formerly the +price of a large tusk procured but one musket, one tusk of the same size +now brings ten. The profits are reaped by other nations, and the only +persons really the losers, in the long run, are our own Cape merchants, +and a few defenseless tribes of Bechuanas on our immediate frontier. + +Mr. Rego, the commandant, very handsomely offered me a soldier as a +guard to Ambaca. My men told me that they had been thinking it would +be better to turn back here, as they had been informed by the people of +color at Cassange that I was leading them down to the sea-coast only to +sell them, and they would be taken on board ship, fattened, and eaten, +as the white men were cannibals. I asked if they had ever heard of an +Englishman buying or selling people; if I had not refused to take a +slave when she was offered to me by Shinte; but, as I had always behaved +as an English teacher, if they now doubted my intentions, they had +better not go to the coast; I, however, who expected to meet some of my +countrymen there, was determined to go on. They replied that they only +thought it right to tell me what had been told to them, but they did +not intend to leave me, and would follow wherever I should lead the way. +This affair being disposed of for the time, the commandant gave them +an ox, and me a friendly dinner before parting. All the merchants of +Cassange accompanied us, in their hammocks carried by slaves, to the +edge of the plateau on which their village stands, and we parted with +the feeling in my mind that I should never forget their disinterested +kindness. They not only did every thing they could to make my men and me +comfortable during our stay; but, there being no hotels in Loanda, they +furnished me with letters of recommendation to their friends in that +city, requesting them to receive me into their houses, for without these +a stranger might find himself a lodger in the streets. May God remember +them in their day of need! + +The latitude and longitude of Cassange, the most easterly station of the +Portuguese in Western Africa, is lat. 9d 37' 30" S., and long. 17d 49' +E.; consequently we had still about 300 miles to traverse before we +could reach the coast. We had a black militia corporal as a guide. He +was a native of Ambaca, and, like nearly all the inhabitants of that +district, known by the name of Ambakistas, could both read and write. +He had three slaves with him, and was carried by them in a "tipoia", or +hammock slung to a pole. His slaves were young, and unable to convey him +far at a time, but he was considerate enough to walk except when we came +near to a village. He then mounted his tipoia and entered the village +in state; his departure was made in the same manner, and he continued +in the hammock till the village was out of sight. It was interesting +to observe the manners of our soldier-guide. Two slaves were always +employed in carrying his tipoia, and the third carried a wooden box, +about three feet long, containing his writing materials, dishes, and +clothing. He was cleanly in all his ways, and, though quite black +himself, when he scolded any one of his own color, abused him as a +"negro". When he wanted to purchase any article from a village, he would +sit down, mix a little gunpowder as ink, and write a note in a neat +hand to ask the price, addressing it to the shopkeeper with the rather +pompous title, "Illustrissimo Senhor" (Most Illustrious Sir). This is +the invariable mode of address throughout Angola. The answer returned +would be in the same style, and, if satisfactory, another note followed +to conclude the bargain. There is so much of this note correspondence +carried on in Angola, that a very large quantity of paper is annually +consumed. Some other peculiarities of our guide were not so pleasing. +A land of slaves is a bad school for even the free; and I was sorry to +find less truthfulness and honesty in him than in my own people. We were +often cheated through his connivance with the sellers of food, and could +perceive that he got a share of the plunder from them. The food is very +cheap, but it was generally made dear enough, until I refused to allow +him to come near the place where we were bargaining. But he took us +safely down to Ambaca, and I was glad to see, on my return to Cassange, +that he was promoted to be sergeant-major of a company of militia. + +Having left Cassange on the 21st, we passed across the remaining portion +of this excessively fertile valley to the foot of Tala Mungongo. We +crossed a fine little stream called the Lui on the 22d, and another +named the Luare on the 24th, then slept at the bottom of the height, +which is from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. The clouds came +floating along the valley, and broke against the sides of the ascent, +and the dripping rain on the tall grass made the slaps in the face it +gave, when the hand or a stick was not held up before it, any thing but +agreeable. This edge of the valley is exactly like the other; jutting +spurs and defiles give the red ascent the same serrated appearance as +that which we descended from the highlands of Londa. The whole of this +vast valley has been removed by denudation, for pieces of the plateau +which once filled the now vacant space stand in it, and present the same +structure of red horizontal strata of equal altitudes with those of +the acclivity which we are now about to ascend. One of these insulated +masses, named Kasala, bore E.S.E. from the place where we made our +exit from the valley, and about ten miles W.S.W. from the village of +Cassange. It is remarkable for its perpendicular sides; even the natives +find it extremely difficult, almost impossible, to reach its summit, +though there is the temptation of marabou-nests and feathers, which are +highly prized. There is a small lake reported to exist on its southern +end, and, during the rainy season, a sort of natural moat is formed +around the bottom. What an acquisition this would have been in feudal +times in England! There is land sufficient for considerable cultivation +on the top, with almost perpendicular sides more than a thousand feet in +height. + +We had not yet got a clear idea of the nature of Tala Mungongo. A +gentleman of Cassange described it as a range of very high mountains, +which it would take four hours to climb; so, though the rain and grass +had wetted us miserably, and I was suffering from an attack of fever +got while observing by night for the position of Cassange, I eagerly +commenced the ascent. The path was steep and slippery; deep gorges +appear on each side of it, leaving but a narrow path along certain spurs +of the sierra for the traveler; but we accomplished the ascent in an +hour, and when there, found we had just got on to a table-land similar +to that we had left before we entered the great Quango valley. We had +come among lofty trees again. One of these, bearing a fruit about the +size of a thirty-two pounder, is named Mononga-zambi. + +We took a glance back to this valley, which equals that of the +Mississippi in fertility, and thought of the vast mass of material which +had been scooped out and carried away in its formation. This naturally +led to reflection on the countless ages required for the previous +formation and deposition of that same material (clay shale), then of +the rocks, whose abrasion formed THAT, until the mind grew giddy in +attempting to ascend the steps which lead up through a portion of the +eternity before man. The different epochs of geology are like landmarks +in that otherwise shoreless sea. Our own epoch, or creation, is but +another added to the number of that wonderful series which presents a +grand display of the mighty power of God: every stage of progress in +the earth and its habitants is such a display. So far from this science +having any tendency to make men undervalue the power or love of God, +it leads to the probability that the exhibition of mercy we have in +the gift of his Son may possibly not be the only manifestation of +grace which has taken place in the countless ages during which works of +creation have been going on. + +Situated a few miles from the edge of the descent, we found the village +of Tala Mungongo, and were kindly accommodated with a house to sleep in, +which was very welcome, as we were all both wet and cold. We found that +the greater altitude and the approach of winter lowered the temperature +so much that many of my men suffered severely from colds. At this, as +at several other Portuguese stations, they have been provident enough to +erect travelers' houses on the same principle as khans or caravanserais +of the East. They are built of the usual wattle and daub, and have +benches of rods for the wayfarer to make his bed on; also chairs, and +a table, and a large jar of water. These benches, though far from +luxurious couches, were better than the ground under the rotten +fragments of my gipsy-tent, for we had still showers occasionally, and +the dews were very heavy. I continued to use them for the sake of the +shelter they afforded, until I found that they were lodgings also for +certain inconvenient bedfellows. + +27TH. Five hours' ride through a pleasant country of forest and meadow, +like those of Londa, brought us to a village of Basongo, a tribe living +in subjection to the Portuguese. We crossed several little streams, +which were flowing in the westerly direction in which we were marching, +and unite to form the Quize, a feeder of the Coanza. The Basongo were +very civil, as indeed all the tribes were who had been conquered by the +Portuguese. The Basongo and Bangala are yet only partially subdued. The +farther west we go from this, the less independent we find the black +population, until we reach the vicinity of Loanda, where the free +natives are nearly identical in their feelings toward the government +with the slaves. But the governors of Angola wisely accept the limited +allegiance and tribute rendered by the more distant tribes as better +than none. + +All the inhabitants of this region, as well as those of Londa, may be +called true negroes, if the limitations formerly made be borne in mind. +The dark color, thick lips, heads elongated backward and upward and +covered with wool, flat noses, with other negro peculiarities, are +general; but, while these characteristics place them in the true negro +family, the reader would imbibe a wrong idea if he supposed that all +these features combined are often met with in one individual. All have a +certain thickness and prominence of lip, but many are met with in every +village in whom thickness and projection are not more marked than +in Europeans. All are dark, but the color is shaded off in different +individuals from deep black to light yellow. As we go westward, we +observe the light color predominating over the dark, and then again, +when we come within the influence of damp from the sea air, we find the +shade deepen into the general blackness of the coast population. +The shape of the head, with its woolly crop, though general, is not +universal. The tribes on the eastern side of the continent, as the +Caffres, have heads finely developed and strongly European. Instances of +this kind are frequently seen, and after I became so familiar with the +dark color as to forget it in viewing the countenance, I was struck +by the strong resemblance some natives bore to certain of our own +notabilities. The Bushmen and Hottentots are exceptions to these +remarks, for both the shape of their heads and growth of wool are +peculiar; the latter, for instance, springs from the scalp in tufts with +bare spaces between, and when the crop is short, resembles a number of +black pepper-corns stuck on the skin, and very unlike the thick frizzly +masses which cover the heads of the Balonda and Maravi. With every +disposition to pay due deference to the opinions of those who have made +ethnology their special study, I have felt myself unable to believe that +the exaggerated features usually put forth as those of the typical negro +characterize the majority of any nation of south Central Africa. The +monuments of the ancient Egyptians seem to me to embody the ideal of the +inhabitants of Londa better than the figures of any work of ethnology I +have met with. + +Passing through a fine, fertile, and well-peopled country to Sanza, +we found the Quize River again touching our path, and here we had +the pleasure of seeing a field of wheat growing luxuriantly without +irrigation. The ears were upward of four inches long, an object of +great curiosity to my companions, because they had tasted my bread at +Linyanti, but had never before seen wheat growing. This small field was +cultivated by Mr. Miland, an agreeable Portuguese merchant. His garden +was interesting, as showing what the land at this elevation is capable +of yielding; for, besides wheat, we saw European vegetables in a +flourishing condition, and we afterward discovered that the coffee-plant +has propagated itself on certain spots of this same district. It may be +seen on the heights of Tala Mungongo, or nearly 300 miles from the west +coast, where it was first introduced by the Jesuit missionaries. + +We spent Sunday, the 30th of April, at Ngio, close to the ford of +the Quize as it crosses our path to fall into the Coanza. The country +becomes more open, but is still abundantly fertile, with a thick crop +of grass between two and three feet high. It is also well wooded +and watered. Villages of Basongo are dotted over the landscape, and +frequently a square house of wattle and daub, belonging to native +Portuguese, is placed beside them for the purposes of trade. The people +here possess both cattle and pigs. The different sleeping-places on our +path, from eight to ten miles apart, are marked by a cluster of sheds +made of sticks and grass. There is a constant stream of people going and +returning to and from the coast. The goods are carried on the head, or +on one shoulder, in a sort of basket attached to the extremities of two +poles between five and six feet long, and called Motete. When the basket +is placed on the head, the poles project forward horizontally, and when +the carrier wishes to rest himself, he plants them on the ground and +the burden against a tree, so he is not obliged to lift it up from the +ground to the level of the head. It stands against the tree propped up +by the poles at that level. The carrier frequently plants the poles on +the ground, and stands holding the burden until he has taken breath, +thus avoiding the trouble of placing the burden on the ground and +lifting it up again. + +When a company of these carriers, or our own party, arrives at one of +these sleeping-places, immediate possession is taken of the sheds. +Those who come late, and find all occupied, must then erect others for +themselves; but this is not difficult, for there is no lack of long +grass. No sooner do any strangers appear at the spot, than the women +may be seen emerging from their villages bearing baskets of manioc-meal, +roots, ground-nuts, yams, bird's-eye pepper, and garlic for sale. +Calico, of which we had brought some from Cassange, is the chief medium +of exchange. We found them all civil, and it was evident, from the +amount of talking and laughing in bargaining, that the ladies enjoyed +their occupation. They must cultivate largely, in order to be able to +supply the constant succession of strangers. Those, however, near to the +great line of road, purchase also much of the food from the more distant +villages for the sake of gain. + +Pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of fever, and it +was no wonder, for the dampness and evaporation from the ground was +excessive. When at any time I attempted to get an observation of a star, +if the trough of mercury were placed on the ground, so much moisture +was condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it that it was with +difficulty the reflection of the star could be seen. When the trough was +placed on a box to prevent the moisture entering from below, so much dew +was deposited on the outside of the roof that it was soon necessary, for +the sake of distinct vision, to wipe the glass. This would not have been +of great consequence, but a short exposure to this dew was so sure to +bring on a fresh fever, that I was obliged to give up observations by +night altogether. The inside of the only covering I now had was not much +better, but under the blanket one is not so liable to the chill which +the dew produces. + +It would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a more intimate +acquaintance with the inhabitants of this part of the country, but the +vertigo produced by frequent fevers made it as much as I could do to +stick on the ox and crawl along in misery. In crossing the Lombe, my ox +Sinbad, in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out a new path for +himself, plunged overhead into a deep hole, and so soused me that I was +obliged to move on to dry my clothing, without calling on the Europeans +who live on the bank. This I regretted, for all the Portuguese were very +kind, and, like the Boers placed in similar circumstances, feel it a +slight to be passed without a word of salutation. But we went on to a +spot where orange-trees had been planted by the natives themselves, and +where abundance of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale. + +On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the landscape enlivened +by the appearance of lofty mountains in the distance, the grass +comparatively short, and the whole country at this time looking gay and +verdant. On our left we saw certain rocks of the same nature with those +of Pungo Andongo, and which closely resemble the Stonehenge group on +Salisbury Plain, only the stone pillars here are of gigantic size. This +region is all wonderfully fertile, famed for raising cattle, and all +kinds of agricultural produce, at a cheap rate. The soil contains +sufficient ferruginous matter, to impart a red tinge to nearly the whole +of it. It is supplied with a great number of little flowing streams +which unite in the Lucalla. This river drains Ambaca, then falls into +the Coanza to the southwest at Massangano. We crossed the Lucalla by +means of a large canoe kept there by a man who farms the ferry from the +government, and charges about a penny per head. A few miles beyond the +Lucalla we came to the village of Ambaca, an important place in former +times, but now a mere paltry village, beautifully situated on a little +elevation in a plain surrounded on all hands by lofty mountains. It +has a jail, and a good house for the commandant, but neither fort nor +church, though the ruins of a place of worship are still standing. + +We were most kindly received by the commandant of Ambaca, Arsenio de +Carpo, who spoke a little English. He recommended wine for my debility, +and here I took the first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa. +I felt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate on the +weakening effects of the fever. They were curious even to myself; +for, though I had tried several times since we left Ngio to take lunar +observations, I could not avoid confusion of time and distance, neither +could I hold the instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation; +hence many of the positions of this part of the route were left till +my return from Loanda. Often, on getting up in the mornings, I found my +clothing as wet from perspiration as if it had been dipped in water. +In vain had I tried to learn or collect words of the Bunda, or dialect +spoken in Angola. I forgot the days of the week and the names of my +companions, and, had I been asked, I probably could not have told +my own. The complaint itself occupied many of my thoughts. One day I +supposed that I had got the true theory of it, and would certainly cure +the next attack, whether in myself or companions; but some new symptoms +would appear, and scatter all the fine speculations which had sprung up, +with extraordinary fertility, in one department of my brain. + +This district is said to contain upward of 40,000 souls. Some ten or +twelve miles to the north of the village of Ambaca there once stood +the missionary station of Cahenda, and it is now quite astonishing to +observe the great numbers who can read and write in this district. This +is the fruit of the labors of the Jesuit and Capuchin missionaries, for +they taught the people of Ambaca; and ever since the expulsion of the +teachers by the Marquis of Pombal, the natives have continued to +teach each other. These devoted men are still held in high estimation +throughout the country to this day. All speak well of them (os padres +Jesuitas); and, now that they are gone from this lower sphere, I could +not help wishing that these our Roman Catholic fellow-Christians had +felt it to be their duty to give the people the Bible, to be a light to +their feet when the good men themselves were gone. + +When sleeping in the house of the commandant, an insect, well known in +the southern country by the name Tampan, bit my foot. It is a kind of +tick, and chooses by preference the parts between the fingers or toes +for inflicting its bite. It is seen from the size of a pin's head to +that of a pea, and is common in all the native huts in this country. It +sucks the blood until quite full, and is then of a dark blue color, and +its skin so tough and yielding that it is impossible to burst it by any +amount of squeezing with the fingers. I had felt the effects of its bite +in former years, and eschewed all native huts ever after; but as I was +here again assailed in a European house, I shall detail the effects of +the bite. These are a tingling sensation of mingled pain and itching, +which commences ascending the limb until the poison imbibed reaches the +abdomen, where it soon causes violent vomiting and purging. Where these +effects do not follow, as we found afterward at Tete, fever sets in; and +I was assured by intelligent Portuguese there that death has sometimes +been the result of this fever. The anxiety my friends at Tete manifested +to keep my men out of the reach of the tampans of the village made it +evident that they had seen cause to dread this insignificant insect. +The only inconvenience I afterward suffered from this bite was the +continuance of the tingling sensation in the point bitten for about a +week. + +MAY 12TH. As we were about to start this morning, the commandant, Senhor +Arsenio, provided bread and meat most bountifully for my use on the way +to the next station, and sent two militia soldiers as guides, instead +of our Cassange corporal, who left us here. About midday we asked for +shelter from the sun in the house of Senhor Mellot, at Zangu, and, +though I was unable to sit and engage in conversation, I found, on +rising from his couch, that he had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for +my use; and at parting he gave me a glass of wine, which prevented +the violent fit of shivering I expected that afternoon. The universal +hospitality of the Portuguese was most gratifying, as it was quite +unexpected; and even now, as I copy my journal, I remember it all with a +glow of gratitude. + +We spent Sunday, the 14th of May, at Cabinda, which is one of the +stations of the sub-commandants, who are placed at different points in +each district of Angola as assistants of the head-commandant, or chefe. +It is situated in a beautiful glen, and surrounded by plantations of +bananas and manioc. The country was gradually becoming more picturesque +the farther we proceeded west. The ranges of lofty blue mountains of +Libollo, which, in coming toward Ambaca, we had seen thirty or forty +miles to our south, were now shut from our view by others nearer at +hand, and the gray ranges of Cahenda and Kiwe, which, while we were in +Ambaca, stood clearly defined eight or ten miles off to the north, were +now close upon our right. As we looked back toward the open pastoral +country of Ambaca, the broad green gently undulating plains seemed in +a hollow surrounded on all sides by rugged mountains, and as we +went westward we were entering upon quite a wild-looking mountainous +district, called Golungo Alto. + +We met numbers of Mambari on their way back to Bihe. Some of them had +belonged to the parties which had penetrated as far as Linyanti, and +foolishly showed their displeasure at the prospect of the Makololo +preferring to go to the coast markets themselves to intrusting them +with their ivory. The Mambari repeated the tale of the mode in which +the white men are said to trade. "The ivory is left on the shore in the +evening, and next morning the seller finds a quantity of goods placed +there in its stead by the white men who live in the sea." "Now," added +they to my men, "how can you Makololo trade with these 'Mermen'? Can you +enter into the sea, and tell them to come ashore?" It was remarkable to +hear this idea repeated so near the sea as we now were. My men replied +that they only wanted to see for themselves; and, as they were now +getting some light on the nature of the trade carried on by the Mambari, +they were highly amused on perceiving the reasons why the Mambari would +rather have met them on the Zambesi than so near the sea-coast. + +There is something so exhilarating to one of Highland blood in being +near or on high mountains, that I forgot my fever as we wended our +way among the lofty tree-covered masses of mica schist which form the +highlands around the romantic residence of the chefe of Golungo Alto. +(Lat. 9d 8' 30" S., long. 15d 2' E.) The whole district is extremely +beautiful. The hills are all bedecked with trees of various hues of +foliage, and among them towers the graceful palm, which yields the +oil of commerce for making our soaps, and the intoxicating toddy. Some +clusters of hills look like the waves of the sea driven into a narrow +open bay, and have assumed the same form as if, when all were chopping +up perpendicularly, they had suddenly been congealed. The cottages of +the natives, perched on the tops of many of the hillocks, looked as if +the owners possessed an eye for the romantic, but they were probably +influenced more by the desire to overlook their gardens, and keep their +families out of the reach of the malaria, which is supposed to prevail +most on the banks of the numerous little streams which run among the +hills. + +We were most kindly received by the commandant, Lieutenant Antonio Canto +e Castro, a young gentleman whose whole subsequent conduct will ever +make me regard him with great affection. Like every other person of +intelligence whom I had met, he lamented deeply the neglect with which +this fine country has been treated. This district contained by the last +census 26,000 hearths or fires; and if to each hearth we reckon four +souls, we have a population of 104,000. The number of carregadores +(carriers) who may be ordered out at the pleasure of government to +convey merchandise to the coast is in this district alone about 6000, +yet there is no good road in existence. This system of compulsory +carriage of merchandise was adopted in consequence of the increase in +numbers and activity of our cruisers, which took place in 1845. Each +trader who went, previous to that year, into the interior, in the +pursuit of his calling, proceeded on the plan of purchasing ivory and +beeswax, and a sufficient number of slaves to carry these commodities. +The whole were intended for exportation as soon as the trader reached +the coast. But when the more stringent measures of 1845 came into +operation, and rendered the exportation of slaves almost impossible, +there being no roads proper for the employment of wheel conveyances, +this new system of compulsory carriage of ivory and beeswax to the coast +was resorted to by the government of Loanda. A trader who requires two +or three hundred carriers to convey his merchandise to the coast now +applies to the general government for aid. An order is sent to the +commandant of a district to furnish the number required. Each head man +of the villages to whom the order is transmitted must furnish from five +to twenty or thirty men, according to the proportion that his people +bear to the entire population of the district. For this accommodation +the trader must pay a tax to the government of 1000 reis, or about three +shillings per load carried. The trader is obliged to pay the carrier +also the sum of 50 reis, or about twopence a day, for his sustenance. +And as a day's journey is never more than from eight to ten miles, the +expense which must be incurred for this compulsory labor is felt to be +heavy by those who were accustomed to employ slave labor alone. Yet no +effort has been made to form a great line of road for wheel carriages. +The first great want of a country has not been attended to, and no +development of its vast resources has taken place. The fact, however, +of a change from one system of carriage to another, taken in connection +with the great depreciation in the price of slaves near this coast, +proves the effectiveness of our efforts at repressing the slave-trade on +the ocean. + +The latitude of Golungo Alto, as observed at the residence of the +commandant, was 9d 8' 30" S., longitude 15d 2' E. A few days' rest with +this excellent young man enabled me to regain much of my strength, and +I could look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his door. We +were quite shut in among green hills, many of which were cultivated +up to their tops with manioc, coffee, cotton, ground-nuts, bananas, +pine-apples, guavas, papaws, custard-apples, pitangas, and jambos, +fruits brought from South America by the former missionaries. The high +hills all around, with towering palms on many points, made this spot +appear more like the Bay of Rio de Janeiro in miniature than any scene +I ever saw; and all who have seen that confess it to be unequaled in the +world beside. The fertility evident in every spot of this district was +quite marvelous to behold, but I shall reserve further notices of this +region till our return from Loanda. + +We left Golungo Alto on the 24th of May, the winter in these parts. +Every evening clouds come rolling in great masses over the mountains in +the west, and pealing thunder accompanies the fall of rain during the +night or early in the morning. The clouds generally remain on the hills +till the morning is well spent, so that we become familiar with morning +mists, a thing we never once saw at Kolobeng. The thermometer stands at +80 Degrees by day, but sinks as low as 76 Degrees by night. + +In going westward we crossed several fine little gushing streams which +never dry. They unite in the Luinha (pronounced Lueenya) and Lucalla. As +they flow over many little cascades, they might easily be turned to good +account, but they are all allowed to run on idly to the ocean. We passed +through forests of gigantic timber, and at an open space named Cambondo, +about eight miles from Golungo Alto, found numbers of carpenters +converting these lofty trees into planks, in exactly the same manner as +was followed by the illustrious Robinson Crusoe. A tree of three or four +feet in diameter, and forty or fifty feet up to the nearest branches, +was felled. It was then cut into lengths of a few feet, and split +into thick junks, which again were reduced to planks an inch thick by +persevering labor with the axe. The object of the carpenters was to make +little chests, and they drive a constant trade in them at Cambondo. When +finished with hinges, lock, and key, all of their own manufacture, one +costs only a shilling and eightpence. My men were so delighted with +them that they carried several of them on their heads all the way to +Linyanti. + +At Trombeta we were pleased to observe a great deal of taste displayed +by the sub-commandant in the laying out of his ground and adornment of +his house with flowers. This trifling incident was the more pleasing, +as it was the first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the +establishment of Mozinkwa in Londa. Rows of trees had been planted +along each side of the road, with pine-apples and flowers between. This +arrangement I had an opportunity of seeing in several other districts of +this country, for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree if +it is only kept from being choked by weeds. + +This gentleman had now a fine estate, which but a few years ago was +a forest, and cost him only 16 Pounds. He had planted about 900 +coffee-trees upon it, and as these begin to yield in three years from +being planted, and in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that +ere now his 16 Pounds yields him sixty fold. All sorts of fruit-trees +and grape-vines yield their fruit twice in each year, without any labor +or irrigation being bestowed on them. All grains and vegetables, if only +sown, do the same; and if advantage is taken of the mists of winter, +even three crops of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the +pods in his fields, and he did not seem to care about it. I understood +him to say that this last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the +two rainy seasons with which this country is favored sometimes proves +troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat has ever been +tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The great complaint +of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry their produce to +market. Here all kinds of food are remarkably cheap. + +Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we descended toward +the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more sterile, uninviting +aspect. On our right ran the River Senza, which nearer the sea takes the +name of Bengo. It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes. +The low plains adjacent to its banks are protected from inundation by +embankments, and the population is entirely occupied in raising food +and fruits for exportation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are +infested by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Not one +of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken into the house +of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my escape and lie across the +path on the lee side of the fire, where the smoke blew over my body. My +host wondered at my want of taste, and I at his want of feeling; for, to +our astonishment, he and the other inhabitants had actually become used +to what was at least equal to a nail through the heel of one's boot, or +the tooth-ache. + +As we were now drawing near to the sea, my companions were looking at +every thing in a serious light. One of them asked me if we should all +have an opportunity of watching each other at Loanda. "Suppose one went +for water, would the others see if he were kidnapped?" I replied, "I see +what you are driving at; and if you suspect me, you may return, for I +am as ignorant of Loanda as you are; but nothing will happen to you but +what happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and will +do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are somewhat elevated +and comparatively sterile. On coming across these we first beheld +the sea: my companions looked upon the boundless ocean with awe. On +describing their feelings afterward, they remarked that "we marched +along with our father, believing that what the ancients had always told +us was true, that the world has no end; but all at once the world +said to us, 'I am finished; there is no more of me!'" They had always +imagined that the world was one extended plain without limit. + +They were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering want, and I was unable +to allay their fears with any promise of supply, for my own mind was +depressed by disease and care. The fever had induced a state of chronic +dysentery, so troublesome that I could not remain on the ox more than +ten minutes at a time; and as we came down the declivity above the city +of Loanda on the 31st of May, I was laboring under great depression of +spirits, as I understood that, in a population of twelve thousand souls, +there was but one genuine English gentleman. I naturally felt anxious +to know whether he were possessed of good-nature, or was one of those +crusty mortals one would rather not meet at all. + +This gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, our commissioner for the suppression of the +slave-trade, had kindly forwarded an invitation to meet me on the way +from Cassange, but, unfortunately, it crossed me on the road. When we +entered his porch, I was delighted to see a number of flowers cultivated +carefully, and inferred from this circumstance that he was, what I soon +discovered him to be, a real whole-hearted Englishman. + +Seeing me ill, he benevolently offered me his bed. Never shall I forget +the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good +English couch, after six months' sleeping on the ground. I was soon +asleep; and Mr. Gabriel, coming in almost immediately, rejoiced at the +soundness of my repose. + + + + +Chapter 20. + +Continued Sickness--Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her Majesty's +Officers--Mr. Gabriel's unwearied Hospitality--Serious Deportment of +the Makololo--They visit Ships of War--Politeness of the Officers and +Men--The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral--Their Remarks--Find +Employment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal--Their superior +Judgment respecting Goods--Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of +Angola--The City of St. Paul de Loanda--The Harbor--Custom-house--No +English Merchants--Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in suppressing +the Slave-trade--Convict Soldiers--Presents from Bishop and Merchants +for Sekeletu--Outfit--Leave Loanda 20th September, 1854--Accompanied +by Mr. Gabriel as far as Icollo i Bengo--Sugar Manufactory--Geology +of this part of the Country--Women spinning Cotton--Its Price--Native +Weavers--Market-places--Cazengo; its Coffee Plantations--South American +Trees--Ruins of Iron Foundry--Native Miners--The Banks of the Lucalla-- +Cottages with Stages--Tobacco-plants--Town of Massangano--Sugar and +Rice--Superior District for Cotton--Portuguese Merchants and foreign +Enterprise--Ruins--The Fort and its ancient Guns--Former Importance +of Massangano--Fires--The Tribe Kisama--Peculiar Variety of Domestic +Fowl--Coffee Plantations--Return to Golungo Alto--Self-complacency of +the Makololo--Fever--Jaundice--Insanity. + + + +In the hope that a short enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's generous hospitality +would restore me to my wonted vigor, I continued under his roof; but my +complaint having been caused by long exposure to malarious influences, +I became much more reduced than ever, even while enjoying rest. Several +Portuguese gentlemen called on me shortly after my arrival; and the +Bishop of Angola, the Right Reverend Joaquim Moreira Reis, then the +acting governor of the province, sent his secretary to do the same, and +likewise to offer the services of the government physician. + +Some of her majesty's cruisers soon came into the port, and, seeing the +emaciated condition to which I was reduced, offered to convey me to St. +Helena or homeward; but, though I had reached the coast, I had found +that, in consequence of the great amount of forest, rivers, and marsh, +there was no possibility of a highway for wagons, and I had brought +a party of Sekeletu's people with me, and found the tribes near the +Portuguese settlement so very unfriendly, that it would be altogether +impossible for my men to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline +the tempting offers of my naval friends, and take back my Makololo +companions to their chief, with a view of trying to make a path from +his country to the east coast by means of the great river Zambesi or +Leeambye. + +I, however, gladly availed myself of the medical assistance of Mr. +Cockin, the surgeon of the "Polyphemus", at the suggestion of his +commander, Captain Phillips. Mr. Cockin's treatment, aided by the +exhilarating presence of the warm-hearted naval officers, and Mr. +Gabriel's unwearied hospitality and care, soon brought me round again. +On the 14th I was so far well as to call on the bishop, in company with +my party, who were arrayed in new robes of striped cotton cloth and red +caps, all presented to them by Mr. Gabriel. He received us, as head of +the provisional government, in the grand hall of the palace. He put many +intelligent questions respecting the Makololo, and then gave them free +permission to come to Loanda as often as they pleased. This interview +pleased the Makololo extremely. + +Every one remarked the serious deportment of the Makololo. They viewed +the large stone houses and churches in the vicinity of the great +ocean with awe. A house with two stories was, until now, beyond their +comprehension. In explanation of this strange thing, I had always been +obliged to use the word for hut; and as huts are constructed by the +poles being let into the earth, they never could comprehend how the +poles of one hut could be founded upon the roof of another, or how men +could live in the upper story, with the conical roof of the lower one in +the middle. Some Makololo, who had visited my little house at Kolobeng, +in trying to describe it to their countrymen at Linyanti, said, "It is +not a hut; it is a mountain with several caves in it." + +Commander Bedingfeld and Captain Skene invited them to visit their +vessels, the "Pluto" and "Philomel". Knowing their fears, I told them +that no one need go if he entertained the least suspicion of foul play. +Nearly the whole party went; and when on deck, I pointed to the sailors, +and said, "Now these are all my countrymen, sent by our queen for the +purpose of putting down the trade of those that buy and sell black +men." They replied, "Truly! they are just like you!" and all their fears +seemed to vanish at once, for they went forward among the men, and +the jolly tars, acting much as the Makololo would have done in similar +circumstances, handed them a share of the bread and beef which they had +for dinner. The commander allowed them to fire off a cannon; and, having +the most exalted ideas of its power, they were greatly pleased when I +told them, "That is what they put down the slave-trade with." The size +of the brig-of-war amazed them. "It is not a canoe at all; it is a +town!" The sailors' deck they named "the Kotla"; and then, as a climax +to their description of this great ark, added, "And what sort of a town +is it that you must climb up into with a rope?" + +The effect of the politeness of the officers and men on their minds was +most beneficial. They had behaved with the greatest kindness to me all +the way from Linyanti, and I now rose rapidly in their estimation; +for, whatever they may have surmised before, they now saw that I was +respected among my own countrymen, and always afterward treated me with +the greatest deference. + +On the 15th there was a procession and service of the mass in the +Cathedral; and, wishing to show my men a place of worship, I took them +to the church, which now serves as the chief one of the see of Angola +and Congo. There is an impression on some minds that a gorgeous ritual +is better calculated to inspire devotional feelings than the simple +forms of the Protestant worship. But here the frequent genuflexions, +changing of positions, burning of incense, with the priests' back turned +to the people, the laughing, talking, and manifest irreverence of the +singers, with firing of guns, etc., did not convey to the minds of my +men the idea of adoration. I overheard them, in talking to each other, +remark that "they had seen the white men charming their demons;" a +phrase identical with one they had used when seeing the Balonda beating +drums before their idols. + +In the beginning of August I suffered a severe relapse, which reduced +me to a mere skeleton. I was then unable to attend to my men for a +considerable time; but when in convalescence from this last attack, I +was thankful to find that I was free from that lassitude which, in my +first recovery, showed the continuance of the malaria in the system. I +found that my men, without prompting, had established a brisk trade in +fire-wood. They sallied forth at cock-crowing in the mornings, and +by daylight reached the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country, +collected a bundle of fire-wood, and returned to the city. It was then +divided into smaller fagots, and sold to the inhabitants; and as they +gave larger quantities than the regular wood-carriers, they found no +difficulty in selling. A ship freighted with coal for the cruisers +having arrived from England, Mr. Gabriel procured them employment in +unloading her at sixpence a day. They continued at this work for upward +of a month, and nothing could exceed their astonishment at the vast +amount of cargo one ship contained. As they themselves always afterward +expressed it, they had labored every day from sunrise to sunset for +a moon and a half, unloading, as quickly as they could, "stones that +burn", and were tired out, still leaving plenty in her. With the money +so obtained they purchased clothing, beads, and other articles to take +back to their own country. Their ideas of the value of different kinds +of goods rather astonished those who had dealt only with natives on the +coast. Hearing it stated with confidence that the Africans preferred the +thinnest fabrics, provided they had gaudy colors and a large extent of +surface, the idea was so new to my experience in the interior that +I dissented, and, in order to show the superior good sense of the +Makololo, took them to the shop of Mr. Schut. When he showed them the +amount of general goods which they might procure at Loanda for a single +tusk, I requested them, without assigning any reason, to point out the +fabrics they prized most. They all at once selected the strongest pieces +of English calico and other cloths, showing that they had regard to +strength without reference to color. I believe that most of the Bechuana +nation would have done the same. But I was assured that the people +near the coast, with whom the Portuguese have to deal, have not so much +regard to durability. This probably arises from calico being the chief +circulating medium; quantity being then of more importance than quality. + +During the period of my indisposition, the bishop sent frequently to +make inquiries, and, as soon as I was able to walk, I went to thank him +for his civilities. His whole conversation and conduct showed him to be +a man of great benevolence and kindness of heart. Alluding to my being a +Protestant, he stated that he was a Catholic from conviction; and though +sorry to see others, like myself, following another path, he entertained +no uncharitable feelings, nor would he ever sanction persecuting +measures. He compared the various sects of Christians, in their way to +heaven, to a number of individuals choosing to pass down the different +streets of Loanda to one of the churches--all would arrive at the same +point at last. His good influence, both in the city and the country, is +universally acknowledged: he was promoting the establishment of schools, +which, though formed more on the monastic principle than Protestants +might approve, will no doubt be a blessing. He was likewise successfully +attempting to abolish the non-marriage custom of the country; and +several marriages had taken place in Loanda among those who, but for his +teaching, would have been content with concubinage. + +St. Paul de Loanda has been a very considerable city, but is now in a +state of decay. It contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, most of +whom are people of color.* There are various evidences of its former +magnificence, especially two cathedrals, one of which, once a Jesuit +college, is now converted into a workshop; and in passing the other, we +saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding within its stately walls. Three +forts continue in a good state of repair. Many large stone houses are +to be found. The palace of the governor and government offices +are commodious structures, but nearly all the houses of the native +inhabitants are of wattle and daub. Trees are planted all over the town +for the sake of shade, and the city presents an imposing appearance from +the sea. It is provided with an effective police, and the custom-house +department is extremely well managed. All parties agree in representing +the Portuguese authorities as both polite and obliging; and if ever +any inconvenience is felt by strangers visiting the port, it must be +considered the fault of the system, and not of the men. + + * From the census of 1850-51 we find the population of this + city arranged thus: 830 whites, only 160 of whom are females. + This is the largest collection of whites in the country, for + Angola itself contains only about 1000 whites. There are 2400 + half-castes in Loanda, and only 120 of them slaves; and there + are 9000 blacks, more than 5000 of whom are slaves. + +The harbor is formed by the low, sandy island of Loanda, which is +inhabited by about 1300 souls, upward of 600 of whom are industrious +native fishermen, who supply the city with abundance of good fish daily. +The space between it and the main land, on which the city is built, is +the station for ships. When a high southwest wind blows, the waves of +the ocean dash over part of the island, and, driving large quantities of +sand before them, gradually fill up the harbor. Great quantities of soil +are also washed in the rainy season from the heights above the city, +so that the port, which once contained water sufficient to float the +largest ships close to the custom-house, is now at low water dry. The +ships are compelled to anchor about a mile north of their old station. +Nearly all the water consumed in Loanda is brought from the River Bengo +by means of launches, the only supply that the city affords being from +some deep wells of slightly brackish water. Unsuccessful attempts have +been made by different governors to finish a canal, which the Dutch, +while in possession of Loanda during the seven years preceding 1648, had +begun, to bring water from the River Coanza to the city. There is not +a single English merchant at Loanda, and only two American. This is the +more remarkable, as nearly all the commerce is carried on by means +of English calico brought hither via Lisbon. Several English houses +attempted to establish a trade about 1845, and accepted bills on Rio de +Janeiro in payment for their goods, but the increased activity of our +cruisers had such an effect upon the mercantile houses of that city that +most of them failed. The English merchants lost all, and Loanda got a +bad name in the commercial world in consequence. + +One of the arrangements of the custom-house may have had some influence +in preventing English trade. Ships coming here must be consigned to some +one on the spot; the consignee receives one hundred dollars per mast, +and he generally makes a great deal more for himself by putting a +percentage on boats and men hired for loading and unloading, and on +every item that passes through his hands. The port charges are also +rendered heavy by twenty dollars being charged as a perquisite of the +secretary of government, with a fee for the chief physician, something +for the hospital, custom-house officers, guards, etc., etc. But, with +all these drawbacks, the Americans carry on a brisk and profitable trade +in calico, biscuit, flour, butter, etc., etc. + +The Portuguese home government has not generally received the credit for +sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade which I conceive to be its due. +In 1839, my friend Mr. Gabriel saw 37 slave-ships lying in this harbor, +waiting for their cargoes, under the protection of the guns of the +forts. At that time slavers had to wait many months at a time for a +human freight, and a certain sum per head was paid to the government +for all that were exported. The duties derived from the exportation of +slaves far exceeded those from other commerce, and, by agreeing to +the suppression of this profitable traffic, the government actually +sacrificed the chief part of the export revenue. Since that period, +however, the revenue from lawful commerce has very much exceeded that on +slaves. The intentions of the home Portuguese government, however good, +can not be fully carried out under the present system. The pay of the +officers is so very small that they are nearly all obliged to engage +in trade; and, owing to the lucrative nature of the slave-trade, the +temptation to engage in it is so powerful, that the philanthropic +statesmen of Lisbon need hardly expect to have their humane and +enlightened views carried out. The law, for instance, lately promulgated +for the abolition of the carrier system (carregadores) is but one of +several equally humane enactments against this mode of compulsory labor, +but there is very little probability of the benevolent intentions of the +Legislature being carried into effect. + +Loanda is regarded somewhat as a penal settlement, and those who leave +their native land for this country do so with the hope of getting rich +in a few years, and then returning home. They have thus no motive +for seeking the permanent welfare of the country. The Portuguese law +preventing the subjects of any other nation from holding landed property +unless they become naturalized, the country has neither the advantage of +native nor foreign enterprise, and remains very much in the same state +as our allies found it in 1575. Nearly all the European soldiers sent +out are convicts, and, contrary to what might be expected from men in +their position, behave remarkably well. A few riots have occurred, +but nothing at all so serious as have taken place in our own penal +settlements. It is a remarkable fact that the whole of the arms of +Loanda are every night in the hands of those who have been convicts. +Various reasons for this mild behavior are assigned by the officers, +but none of these, when viewed in connection with our own experience in +Australia, appear to be valid. Religion seems to have no connection +with the change. Perhaps the climate may have some influence in subduing +their turbulent disposition, for the inhabitants generally are a timid +race; they are not half so brave as our Caffres. The people of Ambriz +ran away like a flock of sheep, and allowed the Portuguese to take +possession of their copper mines and country without striking a blow. If +we must have convict settlements, attention to the climate might be of +advantage in the selection. Here even bulls are much tamer than with us. +I never met with a ferocious one in this country, and the Portuguese use +them generally for riding; an ox is seldom seen. + +The objects which I had in view in opening up the country, as stated +in a few notes of my journey, published in the newspapers of Angola, so +commended themselves to the general government and merchants of Loanda, +that, at the instance of his excellency the bishop, a handsome present +for Sekeletu was granted by the Board of Public Works (Junta da Fazenda +Publica). It consisted of a colonel's complete uniform and a horse for +the chief, and suits of clothing for all the men who accompanied me. +The merchants also made a present, by public subscription, of handsome +specimens of all their articles of trade, and two donkeys, for the +purpose of introducing the breed into his country, as tsetse can not +kill this beast of burden. These presents were accompanied by letters +from the bishop and merchants; and I was kindly favored with letters of +recommendation to the Portuguese authorities in Eastern Africa. + +I took with me a good stock of cotton cloth, fresh supplies of +ammunition and beads, and gave each of my men a musket. As my companions +had amassed considerable quantities of goods, they were unable to carry +mine, but the bishop furnished me with twenty carriers, and sent forward +orders to all the commandants of the districts through which we were to +pass to render me every assistance in their power. Being now supplied +with a good new tent made by my friends on board the Philomel, we left +Loanda on the 20th of September, 1854, and passed round by sea to the +mouth of the River Bengo. Ascending this river, we went through the +district in which stand the ruins of the convent of St. Antonio; thence +into Icollo i Bengo, which contains a population of 6530 blacks, 172 +mulattoes, and 11 whites, and is so named from having been the residence +of a former native king. The proportion of slaves is only 3.38 per cent. +of the inhabitants. The commandant of this place, Laurence Jose Marquis, +is a frank old soldier and a most hospitable man; he is one of the few +who secure the universal approbation of their fellow-men for stern, +unflinching honesty, and has risen from the ranks to be a major in the +army. We were accompanied thus far by our generous host, Edmund Gabriel, +Esq., who, by his unwearied attentions to myself, and liberality in +supporting my men, had become endeared to all our hearts. My men were +strongly impressed with a sense of his goodness, and often spoke of him +in terms of admiration all the way to Linyanti. + +While here we visited a large sugar manufactory belonging to a lady, +Donna Anna da Sousa. The flat alluvial lands on the banks of the Senza +or Bengo are well adapted for raising sugar-cane, and this lady had a +surprising number of slaves, but somehow the establishment was far from +being in a flourishing condition. It presented such a contrast to the +free-labor establishments of the Mauritius, which I have since seen, +where, with not one tenth of the number of hands, or such good soil, +a man of color had, in one year, cleared 5000 Pounds by a single crop, +that I quote the fact, in hopes it may meet the eye of Donna Anna. + +The water of the river is muddy, and it is observed that such rivers +have many more mosquitoes than those which have clear water. It was +remarked to us here that these insects are much more numerous at +the period of new moon than at other times; at any rate, we were all +thankful to get away from the Senza and its insect plagues. + +The whole of this part of the country is composed of marly tufa, +containing the same kind of shells as those at present alive in the +seas. As we advanced eastward and ascended the higher lands, we found +eruptive trap, which had tilted up immense masses of mica and sandstone +schists. The mica schist almost always dipped toward the interior of the +country, forming those mountain ranges of which we have already spoken +as giving a highland character to the district of Golungo Alto. The trap +has frequently run through the gorges made in the upheaved rocks, and +at the points of junction between the igneous and older rocks there are +large quantities of strongly magnetic iron ore. The clayey soil formed +by the disintegration of the mica schist and trap is the favorite soil +for the coffee; and it is on these mountain sides, and others possessing +a similar red clay soil, that this plant has propagated itself so +widely. The meadow-lands adjacent to the Senza and Coanza being +underlaid by that marly tufa which abounds toward the coast, and +containing the same shells, show that, previous to the elevation of that +side of the country, this region possessed some deeply-indented bays. + +28TH SEPTEMBER, KALUNGWEMBO.--We were still on the same path by which we +had come, and, there being no mosquitoes, we could now better enjoy the +scenery. Ranges of hills occupy both sides of our path, and the fine +level road is adorned with a beautiful red flower named Bolcamaria. The +markets or sleeping-places are well supplied with provisions by great +numbers of women, every one of whom is seen spinning cotton with a +spindle and distaff, exactly like those which were in use among the +ancient Egyptians. A woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fields, +though with a pot on her head, a child on her back, and the hoe over her +shoulder, but she is employed in this way. The cotton was brought to the +market for sale, and I bought a pound for a penny. This was the price +demanded, and probably double what they ask from each other. We saw +the cotton growing luxuriantly all around the market-places from seeds +dropped accidentally. It is seen also about the native huts, and, so far +as I could learn, it was the American cotton, so influenced by climate +as to be perennial. We met in the road natives passing with bundles of +cops, or spindles full of cotton thread, and these they were carrying to +other parts to be woven into cloth. The women are the spinners, and the +men perform the weaving. Each web is about 5 feet long, and 15 or 18 +inches wide. The loom is of the simplest construction, being nothing but +two beams placed one over the other, the web standing perpendicularly. +The threads of the web are separated by means of a thin wooden lath, +and the woof passed through by means of the spindle on which it has been +wound in spinning. + +The mode of spinning and weaving in Angola, and, indeed, throughout +South Central Africa, is so very like the same occupations in the +hands of the ancient Egyptians, that I introduce a woodcut from the +interesting work of Sir Gardner Wilkinson. The lower figures are engaged +in spinning in the real African method, and the weavers in the left-hand +corner have their web in the Angolese fashion.* + + * Unfortunately, this woodcut can not be represented in this + ASCII text. The caption reads, 'Ancient Spinning and Weaving, + perpetuated in Africa at the present day. From Wilkinson's + "Ancient Egyptians", p. 85, 86.' The web, or cloth on the + loom, mentioned, has the vertical threads, or the warp, + hanging, perhaps five feet, from a horizontal beam. The woof + is passed through from side to side.--A. L., 1997. + +Numbers of other articles are brought for sale to these sleeping-places. +The native smiths there carry on their trade. I bought ten very good +table-knives, made of country iron, for twopence each. + +Labor is extremely cheap, for I was assured that even carpenters, +masons, smiths, etc., might be hired for fourpence a day, and +agriculturists would gladly work for half that sum.* + + * In order that the reader may understand the social position + of the people of this country, I here give the census of the + district of Golungo Alto for the year 1854, though the numbers + are evidently not all furnished: + + 238 householders or yeomen. + 4224 patrons, or head men of several hamlets. + 23 native chiefs or sovas. + 292 macotas or councilors. + 5838 carriers. + 126 carpenters. + 72 masons. + 300 shoemakers. + 181 potters. + 25 tailors. + 12 barbers. + 206 iron-founders. + 486 bellows-blowers. + 586 coke-makers. + 173 iron-miners. + 184 soldiers of militia. + 3603 privileged gentlemen, i.e., who may wear boots. + 18 vagabonds. + 717 old men. + 54 blind men and women. + 81 lame men and women. + 770 slave men. + 807 slave women. + 9578 free women. + 393 possessors of land. + 300 female gardeners. + 139 hunters of wild animals. + 980 smiths. + 314 mat-makers. + 4065 males under 7 years of age. + 6012 females under 7 years of age. + +These people possess 300 idol-houses, 600 sheep, 5000 goats, 500 oxen, +398 gardens, 25,120 hearths. The authorities find great difficulty in +getting the people to furnish a correct account of their numbers. This +census is quoted merely for the purpose of giving a general idea of the +employments of the inhabitants. + +The following is taken from the census of Icollo i Bengo, and is added +for a similar reason: + + 3232 living without the marriage tie. (All those who have + not been married by a priest are so distinguished.) + 4 orphans--2 black and 2 white. + 9 native chiefs. + 2 carpenters. + 21 potters. + 11 tailors. + 2 shoemakers. + 3 barbers. + 5 mat-makers. + 12 sack-makers. + 21 basket-makers. + + The cattle in the district are: 10 asses, 401 oxen, 492 cows, + 3933 sheep, 1699 goats, 909 swine; and as an annual tax is + levied of sixpence per head on all stock, it is probable that + the returns are less than the reality. + +Being anxious to obtain some more knowledge of this interesting country +and its ancient missionary establishments than the line of route by +which we had come afforded, I resolved to visit the town of Massangano, +which is situated to the south of Golungo Alto, and at the confluence of +the rivers Lucalla and Coanza. This led me to pass through the district +of Cazengo, which is rather famous for the abundance and excellence +of its coffee. Extensive coffee plantations were found to exist on the +sides of the several lofty mountains that compose this district. They +were not planted by the Portuguese. The Jesuit and other missionaries +are known to have brought some of the fine old Mocha seed, and these +have propagated themselves far and wide; hence the excellence of +the Angola coffee. Some have asserted that, as new plantations +were constantly discovered even during the period of our visit, the +coffee-tree was indigenous; but the fact that pine-apples, bananas, +yams, orange-trees, custard apple-trees, pitangas, guavas, and other +South American trees, were found by me in the same localities with the +recently-discovered coffee, would seem to indicate that all foreign +trees must have been introduced by the same agency. It is known that the +Jesuits also introduced many other trees for the sake of their timber +alone. Numbers of these have spread over the country, some have probably +died out, and others failed to spread, like a lonely specimen which +stands in what was the Botanic Garden of Loanda, and, though most useful +in yielding a substitute for frankincense, is the only one of the kind +in Africa. + +A circumstance which would facilitate the extensive propagation of the +coffee on the proper clay soil is this: The seed, when buried beneath +the soil, generally dies, while that which is sown broadcast, with no +covering except the shade of the trees, vegetates readily. The agent in +sowing in this case is a bird, which eats the outer rind, and throws +the kernel on the ground. This plant can not bear the direct rays of +the sun; consequently, when a number of the trees are discovered in the +forest, all that is necessary is to clear away the brushwood, and +leave as many of the tall forest-trees as will afford good shade to the +coffee-plants below. The fortunate discoverer has then a flourishing +coffee plantation. + +This district, small though it be, having only a population of 13,822, +of whom ten only are white, nevertheless yields an annual tribute to the +government of thirteen hundred cotton cloths, each 5 feet by 18 or 20 +inches, of their own growth and manufacture. + +Accompanied by the commandant of Cazengo, who was well acquainted with +this part of the country, I proceeded in a canoe down the River Lucalla +to Massangano. This river is about 85 yards wide, and navigable for +canoes from its confluence with the Coanza to about six miles above the +point where it receives the Luinha. Near this latter point stand the +strong, massive ruins of an iron foundry, erected in the times (1768) +and by the order of the famous Marquis of Pombal. The whole of the +buildings were constructed of stone, cemented with oil and lime. The dam +for water-power was made of the same materials, and 27 feet high. This +had been broken through by a flood, and solid blocks, many yards in +length, were carried down the stream, affording an instructive example +of the transporting power of water. There was nothing in the appearance +of the place to indicate unhealthiness; but eight Spanish and Swedish +workmen, being brought hither for the purpose of instructing the +natives in the art of smelting iron, soon fell victims to disease and +"irregularities". The effort of the marquis to improve the mode of +manufacturing iron was thus rendered abortive. Labor and subsistence +are, however, so very cheap that almost any amount of work can be +executed, at a cost that renders expensive establishments unnecessary. + +A party of native miners and smiths is still kept in the employment of +the government, who, working the rich black magnetic iron ore, produce +for the government from 480 to 500 bars of good malleable iron every +month. They are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of +a small fresh-water fish, called "Cacusu", a portion of the tax levied +upon the fishermen of the Coanza. This fish is so much relished in the +country that those who do not wish to eat them can easily convert them +into money. The commandant of the district of Massangano, for instance, +has a right to a dish of three hundred every morning, as part of his +salary. Shell-fish are also found in the Coanza, and the "Peixemulher", +or woman-fish of the Portuguese, which is probably a Manatee. + +The banks of the Lucalla are very pretty, well planted with +orange-trees, bananas, and the palm ('Elaeis Guineensis') which yields +the oil of commerce. Large plantations of maize, manioc, and tobacco are +seen along both banks, which are enlivened by the frequent appearance +of native houses imbosomed in dense shady groves, with little boys and +girls playing about them. The banks are steep, the water having cut out +its bed in dark red alluvial soil. Before every cottage a small stage +is erected, to which the inhabitants may descend to draw water without +danger from the alligators. Some have a little palisade made in the +water for safety from these reptiles, and others use the shell of the +fruit of the baobab-tree attached to a pole about ten feet long, with +which, while standing on the high bank, they may draw water without fear +of accident. + +Many climbing plants run up the lofty silk, cotton, and baobab trees, +and hang their beautiful flowers in gay festoons on the branches. As we +approach Massangano, the land on both banks of the Lucalla becomes very +level, and large portions are left marshy after the annual floods; but +all is very fertile. As an illustration of the strength of the soil, +I may state that we saw tobacco-plants in gardens near the confluence +eight feet high, and each plant had thirty-six leaves, which were +eighteen inches long by six or eight inches broad. But it is not +a pastoral district. In our descent we observed the tsetse, and +consequently the people had no domestic animals save goats. + +We found the town of Massangano on a tongue of rather high land, formed +by the left bank of the Lucalla and right bank of the Coanza, and +received true Portuguese hospitality from Senhor Lubata. The town has +more than a thousand inhabitants; the district has 28,063, with only +315 slaves. It stands on a mound of calcareous tufa, containing great +numbers of fossil shells, the most recent of which resemble those found +in the marly tufa close to the coast. The fort stands on the south side +of the town, on a high perpendicular bank overhanging the Coanza. This +river is here a noble stream, about a hundred and fifty yards wide, +admitting navigation in large canoes from the bar at its mouth to +Cambambe, some thirty miles above this town. There, a fine waterfall +hinders farther ascent. Ten or twelve large canoes laden with country +produce pass Massangano every day. Four galleons were constructed here +as long ago as 1650, which must have been of good size, for they crossed +the ocean to Rio Janeiro. + +Massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice, while Cambambe +is a very superior field for cotton; but the bar at the mouth of the +Coanza would prevent the approach of a steamer into this desirable +region, though a small one could ply on it with ease when once in. It +is probable that the objects of those who attempted to make a canal from +Calumbo to Loanda were not merely to supply that city with fresh water, +but to afford facilities for transportation. The remains of the canal +show it to have been made on a scale suited for the Coanza canoes. The +Portuguese began another on a smaller scale in 1811, and, after three +years' labor, had finished only 6000 yards. Nothing great or useful will +ever be effected here so long as men come merely to get rich, and then +return to Portugal. + +The latitude of the town and fort of Massangano is 9d 37' 46" S., being +nearly the same as that of Cassange. The country between Loanda and this +point being comparatively flat, a railroad might be constructed at small +expense. The level country is prolonged along the north bank of the +Coanza to the edge of the Cassange basin, and a railway carried thither +would be convenient for the transport of the products of the rich +districts of Cassange, Pungo Andongo, Ambaca, Cambambe, Golungo Alto, +Cazengo, Muchima, and Calumbo; in a word, the whole of Angola and +independent tribes adjacent to this kingdom. + +The Portuguese merchants generally look to foreign enterprise and to +their own government for the means by which this amelioration might +be effected; but, as I always stated to them when conversing on the +subject, foreign capitalists would never run the risk, unless they saw +the Angolese doing something for themselves, and the laws so altered +that the subjects of other nations should enjoy the same privileges in +the country with themselves. The government of Portugal has indeed shown +a wise and liberal policy by its permission for the alienation of the +crown lands in Angola; but the law giving it effect is so fenced round +with limitations, and so deluged with verbiage, that to plain people it +seems any thing but a straightforward license to foreigners to become +'bona fide' landholders and cultivators of the soil. At present the +tolls paid on the different lines of roads for ferries and bridges are +equal to the interest of large sums of money, though but a small amount +has been expended in making available roads. + +There are two churches and a hospital in ruins at Massangano; and the +remains of two convents are pointed out, one of which is said to have +been an establishment of black Benedictines, which, if successful, +considering the materials the brethren had to work on, must have been a +laborious undertaking. There is neither priest nor schoolmaster in the +town, but I was pleased to observe a number of children taught by one of +the inhabitants. The cultivated lands attached to all these conventual +establishments in Angola are now rented by the government of Loanda, +and thither the bishop lately removed all the gold and silver vessels +belonging to them. + +The fort of Massangano is small, but in good repair; it contains some +very ancient guns, which were loaded from the breech, and must have been +formidable weapons in their time. The natives of this country entertain +a remarkable dread of great guns, and this tends much to the permanence +of the Portuguese authority. They dread a cannon greatly, though the +carriage be so rotten that it would fall to pieces at the first shot; +the fort of Pungo Andongo is kept securely by cannon perched on cross +sticks alone! + +Massangano was a very important town at the time the Dutch held forcible +possession of Loanda and part of Angola; but when, in the year 1648, +the Dutch were expelled from this country by a small body of Portuguese, +under the Governor Salvador Correa de Sa Benevides, Massangano was left +to sink into its present decay. Since it was partially abandoned by the +Portuguese, several baobab-trees have sprung up and attained a diameter +of eighteen or twenty inches, and are about twenty feet high. No certain +conclusion can be drawn from these instances, as it is not known at what +time after 1648 they began to grow; but their present size shows that +their growth is not unusually slow. + +Several fires occurred during our stay, by the thatch having, through +long exposure to a torrid sun, become like tinder. The roofs became +ignited without any visible cause except the intense solar rays, and +excited terror in the minds of the inhabitants, as the slightest spark +carried by the wind would have set the whole town in a blaze. There is +not a single inscription on stone visible in Massangano. If destroyed +to-morrow, no one could tell where it and most Portuguese interior +villages stood, any more than we can do those of the Balonda. + +During the occupation of this town the Coanza was used for the purpose +of navigation, but their vessels were so frequently plundered by their +Dutch neighbors that, when they regained the good port of Loanda, they +no longer made use of the river. We remained here four days, in hopes +of obtaining an observation for the longitude, but at this season of the +year the sky is almost constantly overcast by a thick canopy of clouds +of a milk-and-water hue; this continues until the rainy season (which +was now close at hand) commences. + +The lands on the north side of the Coanza belong to the Quisamas +(Kisamas), an independent tribe, which the Portuguese have not been able +to subdue. The few who came under my observation possessed much of the +Bushman or Hottentot feature, and were dressed in strips of soft bark +hanging from the waist to the knee. They deal largely in salt, which +their country produces in great abundance. It is brought in crystals of +about 12 inches long and 1-1/2 in diameter. This is hawked about every +where in Angola, and, next to calico, is the most common medium of +barter. The Kisama are brave; and when the Portuguese army followed them +into their forests, they reduced the invaders to extremity by tapping +all the reservoirs of water, which were no other than the enormous +baobabs of the country hollowed into cisterns. As the Kisama country is +ill supplied with water otherwise, the Portuguese were soon obliged to +retreat. Their country, lying near to Massangano, is low and marshy, +but becomes more elevated in the distance, and beyond them lie the lofty +dark mountain ranges of the Libollo, another powerful and independent +people. Near Massangano I observed what seemed to be an effort of nature +to furnish a variety of domestic fowls, more capable than the common +kind of bearing the heat of the sun. This was a hen and chickens with +all their feathers curled upward, thus giving shade to the body +without increasing the heat. They are here named "Kisafu" by the native +population, who pay a high price for them when they wish to offer them +as a sacrifice, and by the Portuguese they are termed "Arripiada", or +shivering. There seems to be a tendency in nature to afford varieties +adapted to the convenience of man. A kind of very short-legged fowl +among the Boers was obtained, in consequence of observing that such +were more easily caught for transportation in their frequent removals +in search of pasture. A similar instance of securing a variety occurred +with the short-limbed sheep in America. + +Returning by ascending the Lucalla into Cazengo, we had an opportunity +of visiting several flourishing coffee plantations, and observed that +several men, who had begun with no capital but honest industry, had, in +the course of a few years, acquired a comfortable subsistence. One of +these, Mr. Pinto, generously furnished me with a good supply of his +excellent coffee, and my men with a breed of rabbits to carry to their +own country. Their lands, granted by government, yielded, without much +labor, coffee sufficient for all the necessaries of life. + +The fact of other avenues of wealth opening up so readily seems like a +providential invitation to forsake the slave-trade and engage in lawful +commerce. We saw the female population occupied, as usual, in the +spinning of cotton and cultivation of their lands. Their only instrument +for culture is a double-handled hoe, which is worked with a sort of +dragging motion. Many of the men were employed in weaving. The latter +appear to be less industrious than the former, for they require a +month to finish a single web. There is, however, not much inducement +to industry, for, notwithstanding the time consumed in its manufacture, +each web is sold for only two shillings. + +On returning to Golungo Alto I found several of my men laid up with +fever. One of the reasons for my leaving them there was that they might +recover from the fatigue of the journey from Loanda, which had much more +effect upon their feet than hundreds of miles had on our way westward. +They had always been accustomed to moisture in their own well-watered +land, and we certainly had a superabundance of that in Loanda. The +roads, however, from Loanda to Golungo Alto were both hard and dry, and +they suffered severely in consequence; yet they were composing songs to +be sung when they should reach home. The Argonauts were nothing to them; +and they remarked very impressively to me, "It was well you came with +Makololo, for no tribe could have done what we have accomplished in +coming to the white man's country: we are the true ancients, who can +tell wonderful things." Two of them now had fever in the continued form, +and became jaundiced, the whites or conjunctival membrane of their eyes +becoming as yellow as saffron; and a third suffered from an attack of +mania. He came to his companions one day, and said, "Remain well. I am +called away by the gods!" and set off at the top of his speed. The +young men caught him before he had gone a mile, and bound him. By gentle +treatment and watching for a few days he recovered. I have observed +several instances of this kind in the country, but very few cases of +idiocy, and I believe that continued insanity is rare. + + + + +Chapter 21. + +Visit a deserted Convent--Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching +--Gradations of native Society--Punishment of Thieves--Palm-toddy; its +baneful Effects--Freemasons--Marriages and Funerals--Litigation--Mr. +Canto's Illness--Bad Behavior of his Slaves--An Entertainment--Ideas +on Free Labor--Loss of American Cotton-seed--Abundance of Cotton in +the country--Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse--Eclipse of the Sun--Insects +which distill Water--Experiments with them--Proceed to Ambaca--Sickly +Season--Office of Commandant--Punishment of official Delinquents-- +Present from Mr. Schut of Loanda--Visit Pungo Andongo--Its good +Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, etc.--The Fort and columnar Rocks--The +Queen of Jinga--Salubrity of Pungo Andongo--Price of a Slave--A +Merchant-prince--His Hospitality--Hear of the Loss of my Papers +in "Forerunner"--Narrow Escape from an Alligator--Ancient +Burial-places--Neglect of Agriculture in Angola--Manioc the staple +Product--Its Cheapness--Sickness--Friendly Visit from a colored +Priest--The Prince of Congo--No Priests in the Interior of Angola. + + + +While waiting for the recovery of my men, I visited, in company with my +friend Mr. Canto, the deserted convent of St. Hilarion, at Bango, a few +miles northwest of Golungo Alto. It is situated in a magnificent valley, +containing a population numbering 4000 hearths. This is the abode of +the Sova, or Chief Bango, who still holds a place of authority under the +Portuguese. The garden of the convent, the church, and dormitories of +the brethren are still kept in a good state of repair. I looked at the +furniture, couches, and large chests for holding the provisions of the +brotherhood with interest, and would fain have learned something of the +former occupants; but all the books and sacred vessels had lately been +removed to Loanda, and even the graves of the good men stand without any +record: their resting-places are, however, carefully tended. All speak +well of the Jesuits and other missionaries, as the Capuchins, etc., for +having attended diligently to the instruction of the children. They were +supposed to have a tendency to take the part of the people against the +government, and were supplanted by priests, concerning whom no regret +is expressed that they were allowed to die out. In viewing the present +fruits of former missions, it is impossible not to feel assured that, +if the Jesuit teaching has been so permanent, that of Protestants, +who leave the Bible in the hands of their converts, will not be less +abiding. The chief Bango has built a large two-story house close by the +convent, but superstitious fears prevent him from sleeping in it. +The Portuguese take advantage of all the gradations into which native +society has divided itself. This man, for instance, is still a sova +or chief, has his councilors, and maintains the same state as when the +country was independent. When any of his people are guilty of theft, he +pays down the amount of goods stolen at once, and reimburses himself out +of the property of the thief so effectually as to be benefited by the +transaction. The people under him are divided into a number of classes. +There are his councilors, as the highest, who are generally head men of +several villages, and the carriers, the lowest free men. One class above +the last obtains the privilege of wearing shoes from the chief by paying +for it; another, the soldiers or militia, pay for the privilege of +serving, the advantage being that they are not afterward liable to +be made carriers. They are also divided into gentlemen and little +gentlemen, and, though quite black, speak of themselves as white men, +and of the others, who may not wear shoes, as "blacks". The men of all +these classes trust to their wives for food, and spend most of their +time in drinking the palm-toddy. This toddy is the juice of the +palm-oil-tree ('Elaeis Guineensis'), which, when tapped, yields a sweet, +clear liquid, not at all intoxicating while fresh, but, when allowed +to stand till the afternoon, causes inebriation and many crimes. +This toddy, called malova, is the bane of the country. Culprits are +continually brought before the commandants for assaults committed +through its influence. Men come up with deep gashes on their heads; and +one, who had burned his father's house, I saw making a profound bow to +Mr. Canto, and volunteering to explain why he did the deed. + +There is also a sort of fraternity of freemasons, named Empacasseiros, +into which no one is admitted unless he is an expert hunter, and can +shoot well with the gun. They are distinguished by a fillet of buffalo +hide around their heads, and are employed as messengers in all cases +requiring express. They are very trustworthy, and, when on active +service, form the best native troops the Portuguese possess. The +militia are of no value as soldiers, but cost the country nothing, +being supported by their wives. Their duties are chiefly to guard the +residences of commandants, and to act as police. + +The chief recreations of the natives of Angola are marriages and +funerals. When a young woman is about to be married, she is placed in a +hut alone and anointed with various unguents, and many incantations +are employed in order to secure good fortune and fruitfulness. Here, as +almost every where in the south, the height of good fortune is to bear +sons. They often leave a husband altogether if they have daughters +only. In their dances, when any one may wish to deride another, in the +accompanying song a line is introduced, "So and so has no children, +and never will get any." She feels the insult so keenly that it is not +uncommon for her to rush away and commit suicide. After some days the +bride elect is taken to another hut, and adorned with all the richest +clothing and ornaments that the relatives can either lend or borrow. She +is then placed in a public situation, saluted as a lady, and presents +made by all her acquaintances are placed around her. After this she is +taken to the residence of her husband, where she has a hut for herself, +and becomes one of several wives, for polygamy is general. Dancing, +feasting, and drinking on such occasions are prolonged for several days. +In case of separation, the woman returns to her father's family, and the +husband receives back what he gave for her. In nearly all cases a man +gives a price for the wife, and in cases of mulattoes, as much as 60 +Pounds is often given to the parents of the bride. This is one of the +evils the bishop was trying to remedy. + +In cases of death the body is kept several days, and there is a grand +concourse of both sexes, with beating of drums, dances, and debauchery, +kept up with feasting, etc., according to the means of the relatives. +The great ambition of many of the blacks of Angola is to give their +friends an expensive funeral. Often, when one is asked to sell a pig, he +replies, "I am keeping it in case of the death of any of my friends." A +pig is usually slaughtered and eaten on the last day of the ceremonies, +and its head thrown into the nearest stream or river. A native will +sometimes appear intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for his +intemperance, will reply, "Why! my mother is dead!" as if he thought it +a sufficient justification. The expenses of funerals are so heavy that +often years elapse before they can defray them. + +These people are said to be very litigious and obstinate: constant +disputes are taking place respecting their lands. A case came before the +weekly court of the commandant involving property in a palm-tree worth +twopence. The judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case, as the +mere expenses of entering it would be much more than the cost of the +tree. "Oh no," said he; "I have a piece of calico with me for the clerk, +and money for yourself. It's my right; I will not forego it." The calico +itself cost three or four shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an +enemy, "I took him before the court." + +My friend Mr. Canto, the commandant, being seized with fever in a severe +form, it afforded me much pleasure to attend HIM in his sickness, who +had been so kind to ME in mine. He was for some time in a state of +insensibility, and I, having the charge of his establishment, had thus +an opportunity of observing the workings of slavery. When a master is +ill, the slaves run riot among the eatables. I did not know this until I +observed that every time the sugar-basin came to the table it was +empty. On visiting my patient by night, I passed along a corridor, and +unexpectedly came upon the washerwoman eating pine-apples and sugar. All +the sweetmeats were devoured, and it was difficult for me to get even +bread and butter until I took the precaution of locking the pantry door. +Probably the slaves thought that, as both they and the luxuries were +the master's property, there was no good reason why they should be kept +apart. + +Debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoyment, they took to +killing the fowls and goats, and, when the animal was dead, brought it +to me, saying, "We found this thing lying out there." They then enjoyed +a feast of flesh. A feeling of insecurity prevails throughout this +country. It is quite common to furnish visitors with the keys of their +rooms. When called on to come to breakfast or dinner, each locks his +door and puts the key in his pocket. At Kolobeng we never locked our +doors by night or by day for months together; but there slavery is +unknown. The Portuguese do not seem at all bigoted in their attachment +to slavery, nor yet in their prejudices against color. Mr. Canto gave an +entertainment in order to draw all classes together and promote general +good-will. Two sovas or native chiefs were present, and took their +places without the least appearance of embarrassment. The Sova of +Kilombo appeared in the dress of a general, and the Sova of Bango was +gayly attired in a red coat, profusely ornamented with tinsel. The +latter had a band of musicians with him consisting of six trumpeters and +four drummers, who performed very well. These men are fond of titles, +and the Portuguese government humors them by conferring honorary +captaincies, etc.: the Sova of Bango was at present anxious to obtain +the title of "Major of all the Sovas". At the tables of other gentlemen +I observed the same thing constantly occurring. At this meeting Mr. +Canto communicated some ideas which I had written out on the dignity +of labor, and the superiority of free over slave labor. The Portuguese +gentlemen present were anxiously expecting an arrival of American +cotton-seed from Mr. Gabriel. They are now in the transition state from +unlawful to lawful trade, and turn eagerly to cotton, coffee, and sugar +as new sources of wealth. Mr. Canto had been commissioned by them to +purchase three sugar-mills. Our cruisers have been the principal agents +in compelling them to abandon the slave-trade; and our government, +in furnishing them with a supply of cotton-seed, showed a generous +intention to aid them in commencing a more honorable course. It can +scarcely be believed, however, that after Lord Clarendon had been at +the trouble of procuring fresh cotton-seed through our minister at +Washington, and had sent it out to the care of H. M. Commissioner at +Loanda, probably from having fallen into the hands of a few incorrigible +slave-traders, it never reached its destination. It was most likely cast +into the sea of Ambriz, and my friends at Golungo Alto were left without +the means of commencing a new enterprise. + +Mr. Canto mentioned that there is now much more cotton in the country +than can be consumed; and if he had possession of a few hundred pounds, +he would buy up all the oil and cotton at a fair price, and thereby +bring about a revolution in the agriculture of the country. These +commodities are not produced in greater quantity, because the people +have no market for those which now spring up almost spontaneously around +them. The above was put down in my journal when I had no idea that +enlarged supplies of cotton from new sources were so much needed at +home. + +It is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance, and cultivate +beans, potatoes, and manioc sufficient only for their own consumption. +I have the impression that cotton, which is deciduous in America, is +perennial here; for the plants I saw in winter were not dead, though +going by the name Algodao Americana, or American cotton. The rents paid +for gardens belonging to the old convents are merely nominal, varying +from one shilling to three pounds per annum. The higher rents being +realized from those in the immediate vicinity of Loanda, none but +Portuguese or half-castes can pay them. + +When about to start, the horse which the governor had kindly presented +for Sekeletu was seized with inflammation, which delayed us some time +longer, and we ultimately lost it. We had been careful to watch it when +coming through the district of Matamba, where we had discovered the +tsetse, that no insect might light upon it. The change of diet here may +have had some influence in producing the disease; for I was informed by +Dr. Welweitsch, an able German naturalist, whom we found pursuing his +arduous labors here, and whose life we hope may be spared to give his +researches to the world, that, of fifty-eight kinds of grasses found +at Loanda, only three or four species exist here, and these of the most +diminutive kinds. The twenty-four different species of grass of Golungo +Alto are nearly all gigantic. Indeed, gigantic grasses, climbers, +shrubs and trees, with but few plants, constitute the vegetation of this +region. + +NOVEMBER 20TH. An eclipse of the sun, which I had anxiously hoped to +observe with a view of determining the longitude, happened this morning, +and, as often took place in this cloudy climate, the sun was covered +four minutes before it began. When it shone forth the eclipse was +in progress, and a few minutes before it should (according to my +calculations) have ended the sun was again completely obscured. The +greatest patience and perseverance are required, if one wishes to +ascertain his position when it is the rainy season. + +Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a curious insect, +which inhabits trees of the fig family ('Ficus'), upward of twenty +species of which are found here. Seven or eight of them cluster round +a spot on one of the smaller branches, and there keep up a constant +distillation of a clear fluid, which, dropping to the ground, forms a +little puddle below. If a vessel is placed under them in the evening, +it contains three or four pints of fluid in the morning. The natives +say that, if a drop falls into the eyes, it causes inflammation of these +organs. To the question whence is this fluid derived, the people reply +that the insects suck it out of the tree, and our own naturalists +give the same answer. I have never seen an orifice, and it is scarcely +possible that the tree can yield so much. A similar but much smaller +homopterous insect, of the family 'Cercopidae', is known in England as +the frog-hopper ('Aphrophora spumaria'), when full grown and +furnished with wings, but while still in the pupa state it is called +"Cuckoo-spit", from the mass of froth in which it envelops itself. +The circulation of sap in plants in our climate, especially of the +graminaceae, is not quick enough to yield much moisture. The African +species is five or six times the size of the English. In the case of +branches of the fig-tree, the point the insects congregate on is soon +marked by a number of incipient roots, such as are thrown out when a +cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose of starting another +tree. I believe that both the English and African insects belong to the +same family, and differ only in size, and that the chief part of the +moisture is derived from the atmosphere. I leave it for naturalists to +explain how these little creatures distill both by night and day as +much water as they please, and are more independent than her majesty's +steam-ships, with their apparatus for condensing steam; for, without +coal, their abundant supplies of sea-water are of no avail. I tried +the following experiment: Finding a colony of these insects busily +distilling on a branch of the 'Ricinus communis', or castor-oil plant, I +denuded about 20 inches of the bark on the tree side of the insects, and +scraped away the inner bark, so as to destroy all the ascending vessels. +I also cut a hole in the side of the branch, reaching to the middle, and +then cut out the pith and internal vessels. The distillation was then +going on at the rate of one drop each 67 seconds, or about 2 ounces +5-1/2 drams in 24 hours. Next morning the distillation, so far from +being affected by the attempt to stop the supplies, supposing they had +come up through the branch from the tree, was increased to a drop every +5 seconds, or 12 drops per minute, making 1 pint (16 ounces) in every 24 +hours. I then cut the branch so much that, during the day, it broke; but +they still went on at the rate of a drop every 5 seconds, while another +colony on a branch of the same tree gave a drop every 17 seconds only, +or at the rate of about 10 ounces 4-4/5 drams in 24 hours. I finally +cut off the branch; but this was too much for their patience, for they +immediately decamped, as insects will do from either a dead branch or +a dead animal, which Indian hunters soon know, when they sit down on +a recently-killed bear. The presence of greater moisture in the air +increased the power of these distillers: the period of greatest activity +was in the morning, when the air and every thing else was charged with +dew. + +Having but one day left for experiment, I found again that another +colony on a branch denuded in the same way yielded a drop every 2 +seconds, or 4 pints 10 ounces in 24 hours, while a colony on a branch +untouched yielded a drop every 11 seconds, or 16 ounces 2-19/20 drams +in 24 hours. I regretted somewhat the want of time to institute another +experiment, namely, to cut a branch and place it in water, so as to keep +it in life, and then observe if there was any diminution of the quantity +of water in the vessel. This alone was wanting to make it certain that +they draw water from the atmosphere. I imagine that they have some power +of which we are not aware, besides that nervous influence which causes +constant motion to our own involuntary muscles, the power of life-long +action without fatigue. The reader will remember, in connection with +this insect, the case of the ants already mentioned. + +DECEMBER 14TH. Both myself and men having recovered from severe attacks +of fever, we left the hospitable residence of Mr. Canto with a deep +sense of his kindness to us all, and proceeded on our way to Ambaca. +(Lat. 9d 16' 35" S., long. 15d 23' E.) + +Frequent rains had fallen in October and November, which were nearly +always accompanied with thunder. Occasionally the quantity of moisture +in the atmosphere is greatly increased without any visible cause: +this imparts a sensation of considerable cold, though the thermometer +exhibits no fall of the mercury. The greater humidity in the air, +affording a better conducting medium for the radiation of heat from the +body, is as dangerous as a sudden fall of the thermometer: it causes +considerable disease among the natives, and this season is denominated +"Carneirado", as if by the disease they were slaughtered like sheep. The +season of these changes, which is the most favorable for Europeans, is +the most unhealthy for the native population; and this is by no means +a climate in which either natives or Europeans can indulge in +irregularities with impunity. + +Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, we were able to +march but short distances. Three hours and a half brought us to the +banks of the Caloi, a small stream which flows into the Senza. This +is one of the parts of the country reputed to yield petroleum, but the +geological formation, being mica schist, dipping toward the eastward, +did not promise much for our finding it. Our hospitable friend, Mr. +Mellot, accompanied us to another little river, called the Quango, where +I saw two fine boys, the sons of the sub-commandant, Mr. Feltao, who, +though only from six to eight years old, were subject to fever. We then +passed on in the bright sunlight, the whole country looking so fresh and +green after the rains, and every thing so cheering, one could not but +wonder to find it so feverish. + +We found, on reaching Ambaca, that the gallant old soldier, Laurence +Jose Marquis, had, since our passing Icollo i Bengo, been promoted, +on account of his stern integrity, to the government of this important +district. The office of commandant is much coveted by the officers +of the line who come to Angola, not so much for the salary as for the +perquisites, which, when managed skillfully, in the course of a few +years make one rich. An idea may be formed of the conduct of some of +these officials from the following extract from the Boletin of Loanda of +the 28th of October, 1854: + +"The acting governor-general of the province of Angola and its +dependencies determines as follows: + +"Having instituted an investigation (Syndecancia) against the commandant +of the fort of----, a captain of the army of Portugal in commission in +this province,----, on account of numerous complaints, which have come +before this government, of violences and extortions practiced by the +said commandant, and those complaints appearing by the result of the +investigation to be well founded, it will be convenient to exonerate the +captain referred to from the command of the fort of----, to which he had +been nominated by the portfolio of this general government, No. 41, of +27th December of the past year; and if not otherwise determined, the +same official shall be judged by a council of war for the criminal acts +which are to him attributed." + +Even this public mention of his crimes attaches no stigma to the man's +character. The council of war, by which these delinquents always prefer +to be judged, is composed of men who eagerly expect to occupy the post +of commandant themselves, and anticipate their own trial for similar +acts at some future time. The severest sentence a council of war awards +is a few weeks' suspension from office in his regiment. + +This want of official integrity, which is not at all attributable to the +home government of Portugal, would prove a serious impediment in the way +of foreign enterprise developing the resources of this rich province. +And to this cause, indeed, may be ascribed the failure of the Portuguese +laws for the entire suppression of the slave-trade. The officers ought +to receive higher pay, if integrity is expected from them. At present, +a captain's pay for a year will only keep him in good uniform. The high +pay our own officers receive has manifest advantages. + +Before leaving Ambaca we received a present of ten head of cattle from +Mr. Schut of Loanda, and, as it shows the cheapness of provisions here, +I may mention that the cost was only about a guinea per head. + +On crossing the Lucalla we made a detour to the south, in order to visit +the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. As soon as we crossed the rivulet +Lotete, a change in the vegetation of the country was apparent. We found +trees identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The grass, +too, stands in tufts, and is of that kind which the natives consider to +be best adapted for cattle. Two species of grape-bearing vines abound +every where in this district, and the influence of the good pasturage is +seen in the plump condition of the cattle. In all my previous inquiries +respecting the vegetable products of Angola, I was invariably +directed to Pungo Andongo. Do you grow wheat? "Oh, yes, in Pungo +Andongo."--Grapes, figs, or peaches? "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo."--Do +you make butter, cheese, etc.? The uniform answer was, "Oh, yes, there +is abundance of all these in Pungo Andongo." But when we arrived here, +we found that the answers all referred to the activity of one man, +Colonel Manuel Antonio Pires. The presence of the wild grape shows that +vineyards might be cultivated with success; the wheat grows well without +irrigation; and any one who tasted the butter and cheese at the table of +Colonel Pires would prefer them to the stale produce of the Irish dairy, +in general use throughout that province. The cattle in this country are +seldom milked, on account of the strong prejudice which the Portuguese +entertain against the use of milk. They believe that it may be used with +safety in the morning, but, if taken after midday, that it will cause +fever. It seemed to me that there was not much reason for carefully +avoiding a few drops in their coffee, after having devoured ten times +the amount in the shape of cheese at dinner. + +The fort of Pungo Andongo (lat. 9d 42' 14" S., long. 15d 30' E.) is +situated in the midst of a group of curious columnar-shaped rocks, each +of which is upward of three hundred feet in height. They are composed of +conglomerate, made up of a great variety of rounded pieces in a matrix +of dark red sandstone. They rest on a thick stratum of this last rock, +with very few of the pebbles in its substance. On this a fossil palm has +been found, and if of the same age as those on the eastern side of the +continent, on which similar palms now lie, there may be coal underneath +this, as well as under that at Tete. The asserted existence of petroleum +springs at Dande, and near Cambambe, would seem to indicate the presence +of this useful mineral, though I am not aware of any one having actually +seen a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in Angola, as we have +at Tete. The gigantic pillars of Pungo Andongo have been formed by a +current of the sea coming from the S.S.E.; for, seen from the top, they +appear arranged in that direction, and must have withstood the surges of +the ocean at a period of our world's history, when the relations of land +and sea were totally different from what they are now, and long before +"the morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted for +joy to see the abodes prepared which man was soon to fill." The imbedded +pieces in the conglomerate are of gneiss, clay shale, mica and sandstone +schists, trap, and porphyry, most of which are large enough to give +the whole the appearance of being the only remaining vestiges of vast +primaeval banks of shingle. Several little streams run among these +rocks, and in the central part of the pillars stands the village, +completely environed by well-nigh inaccessible rocks. The pathways into +the village might be defended by a small body of troops against an army; +and this place was long the stronghold of the tribe called Jinga, the +original possessors of the country. + +We were shown a footprint carved on one of these rocks. It is spoken of +as that of a famous queen, who reigned over all this region. In looking +at these rude attempts at commemoration, one feels the value of letters. +In the history of Angola we find that the famous queen Donna Anna de +Souza came from the vicinity, as embassadress from her brother, Gola +Bandy, King of the Jinga, to Loanda, in 1621, to sue for peace, and +astonished the governor by the readiness of her answers. The governor +proposed, as a condition of peace, the payment by the Jinga of an annual +tribute. "People talk of tribute after they have conquered, and not +before it; we come to talk of peace, not of subjection," was the ready +answer. The governor was as much nonplussed as our Cape governors often +are when they tell the Caffres "to put it all down in writing, and they +will then be able to answer them." She remained some time in Loanda, +gained all she sought, and, after being taught by the missionaries, was +baptized, and returned to her own country with honor. She succeeded +to the kingdom on the death of her brother, whom it was supposed she +poisoned, but in a subsequent war with the Portuguese she lost nearly +all her army in a great battle fought in 1627. She returned to the +Church after a long period of apostasy, and died in extreme old age; and +the Jinga still live as an independent people to the north of this their +ancient country. No African tribe has ever been destroyed. + +In former times the Portuguese imagined that this place was particularly +unhealthy, and banishment to the black rocks of Pungo Andongo +was thought by their judges to be a much severer sentence than +transportation to any part of the coast; but this district is now well +known to be the most healthy part of Angola. The water is remarkably +pure, the soil is light, and the country open and undulating, with a +general slope down toward the River Coanza, a few miles distant. That +river is the southern boundary of the Portuguese, and beyond, to the S. +and S.W., we see the high mountains of the Libollo. On the S.E. we have +also a mountainous country, inhabited by the Kimbonda or Ambonda, who +are said by Colonel Pires to be a very brave and independent people, +but hospitable and fair in their dealings. They are rich in cattle, and +their country produces much beeswax, which is carefully collected, +and brought to the Portuguese, with whom they have always been on good +terms. + +The Ako (Haco), a branch of this family, inhabit the left bank of the +Coanza above this village, who, instead of bringing slaves for sale, as +formerly, now occasionally bring wax for the purchase of a slave from +the Portuguese. I saw a boy sold for twelve shillings: he said that he +belonged to the country of Matiamvo. Here I bought a pair of well-made +boots, of good tanned leather, which reached above the knee, for five +shillings and eightpence, and that was just the price given for one +pound of ivory by Mr. Pires; consequently, the boy was worth two pairs +of boots, or two pounds of ivory. The Libollo on the S. have not so +good a character, but the Coanza is always deep enough to form a line of +defense. Colonel Pires is a good example of what an honest industrious +man in this country may become. He came as a servant in a ship, and, by +a long course of persevering labor, has raised himself to be the richest +merchant in Angola. He possesses some thousands of cattle; and, on any +emergency, can appear in the field with several hundred armed slaves. + +While enjoying the hospitality of this merchant-prince in his commodious +residence, which is outside the rocks, and commands a beautiful view of +all the adjacent country, I learned that all my dispatches, maps, +and journal had gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail-packet +"Forerunner". I felt so glad that my friend Lieutenant Bedingfeld, to +whose care I had committed them, though in the most imminent danger, had +not shared a similar fate, that I was at once reconciled to the labor +of rewriting. I availed myself of the kindness of Colonel Pires, and +remained till the end of the year reproducing my lost papers. + +Colonel Pires having another establishment on the banks of the Coanza, +about six miles distant, I visited it with him about once a week for the +purpose of recreation. The difference of temperature caused by the lower +altitude was seen in the cashew-trees; for while, near the rocks, these +trees were but coming into flower, those at the lower station were +ripening their fruit. Cocoanut trees and bananas bear well at the lower +station, but yield little or no fruit at the upper. The difference +indicated by the thermometer was 7 Deg. The general range near the rocks +was 67 Deg. at 7 A.M., 74 Deg. at midday, and 72 Deg. in the evening. + +A slave-boy belonging to Colonel Pires, having stolen and eaten some +lemons in the evening, went to the river to wash his mouth, so as not to +be detected by the flavor. An alligator seized him and carried him to +an island in the middle of the stream; there the boy grasped hold of the +reeds, and baffled all the efforts of the reptile to dislodge him, +till his companions, attracted by his cries, came in a canoe to his +assistance. The alligator at once let go his hold; for, when out of his +own element, he is cowardly. The boy had many marks of the teeth in his +abdomen and thigh, and those of the claws on his legs and arms. + +The slaves in Colonel Pires' establishments appeared more like free +servants than any I had elsewhere seen. Every thing was neat and clean, +while generally, where slaves are the only domestics, there is an aspect +of slovenliness, as if they went on the principle of always doing as +little for their masters as possible. + +In the country near to this station were a large number of the ancient +burial-places of the Jinga. These are simply large mounds of stones, +with drinking and cooking vessels of rude pottery on them. Some are +arranged in a circular form, two or three yards in diameter, and shaped +like a haycock. There is not a single vestige of any inscription. The +natives of Angola generally have a strange predilection for bringing +their dead to the sides of the most frequented paths. They have a +particular anxiety to secure the point where cross-roads meet. On and +around the graves are planted tree euphorbias and other species of that +family. On the grave itself they also place water-bottles, broken pipes, +cooking vessels, and sometimes a little bow and arrow. + +The Portuguese government, wishing to prevent this custom, affixed a +penalty on any one burying in the roads, and appointed places of public +sepulture in every district in the country. The people persist, however, +in spite of the most stringent enforcement of the law, to follow their +ancient custom. + +The country between the Coanza and Pungo Andongo is covered with low +trees, bushes, and fine pasturage. In the latter, we were pleased to +see our old acquaintances, the gaudy gladiolus, Amaryllis toxicaria, +hymanthus, and other bulbs in as flourishing a condition as at the Cape. + +It is surprising that so little has been done in the way of agriculture +in Angola. Raising wheat by means of irrigation has never been tried; +no plow is ever used; and the only instrument is the native hoe, in the +hands of slaves. The chief object of agriculture is the manioc, which +does not contain nutriment sufficient to give proper stamina to the +people. The half-caste Portuguese have not so much energy as their +fathers. They subsist chiefly on the manioc, and, as that can be +eaten either raw, roasted, or boiled, as it comes from the ground; or +fermented in water, and then roasted or dried after fermentation, and +baked or pounded into fine meal; or rasped into meal and cooked as +farina; or made into confectionary with butter and sugar, it does not +so soon pall upon the palate as one might imagine, when told that it +constitutes their principal food. The leaves boiled make an excellent +vegetable for the table; and, when eaten by goats, their milk is much +increased. The wood is a good fuel, and yields a large quantity +of potash. If planted in a dry soil, it takes two years to come to +perfection, requiring, during that time, one weeding only. It bears +drought well, and never shrivels up, like other plants, when deprived of +rain. When planted in low alluvial soils, and either well supplied with +rain or annually flooded, twelve, or even ten months, are sufficient to +bring it to maturity. The root rasped while raw, placed upon a cloth, +and rubbed with the hands while water is poured upon it, parts with its +starchy glutinous matter, and this, when it settles at the bottom of the +vessel, and the water poured off, is placed in the sun till nearly dry, +to form tapioca. The process of drying is completed on an iron plate +over a slow fire, the mass being stirred meanwhile with a stick, and +when quite dry it appears agglutinated into little globules, and is in +the form we see the tapioca of commerce. This is never eaten by weevils, +and so little labor is required in its cultivation that on the spot it +is extremely cheap. Throughout the interior parts of Angola, fine manioc +meal, which could with ease have been converted either into superior +starch or tapioca, is commonly sold at the rate of about ten pounds for +a penny. All this region, however, has no means of transport to Loanda +other than the shoulders of the carriers and slaves over a footpath. + +Cambambe, to which the navigation of the Coanza reaches, is reported to +be thirty leagues below Pungo Andongo. A large waterfall is the limit on +that side; and another exists higher up, at the confluence of the Lombe +(lat. 9d 41' 26" S., and about long. 16d E.), over which hippopotami and +elephants are sometimes drawn and killed. The river between is rapid, +and generally rushes over a rocky bottom. Its source is pointed out +as S.E. or S.S.E. of its confluence with the Lombe, and near Bihe. The +situation of Bihe is not well known. When at Sanza we were assured +that it lies nearly south of that point, and eight days distant. This +statement seemed to be corroborated by our meeting many people going to +Matiamvo and to Loanda from Bihe. Both parties had come to Sanza, and +then branched off, one to the east, the other to the west. The source of +the Coanza is thus probably not far from Sanza. + +I had the happiness of doing a little good in the way of administering +to the sick, for there are no doctors in the interior of Angola. +Notwithstanding the general healthiness of this fine district and its +pleasant temperature, I was attacked by fever myself. While confined to +my room, a gentleman of color, a canon of the Church, kindly paid me +a visit. He was on a tour of visitation in the different interior +districts for the purpose of baptizing and marrying. He had lately been +on a visit to Lisbon in company with the Prince of Congo, and had +been invested with an order of honor by the King of Portugal as an +acknowledgment of his services. He had all the appearance of a true +negro, but commanded the respect of the people; and Colonel P., who had +known him for thirty years, pronounced him to be a good man. There are +only three or four priests in Loanda, all men of color, but educated for +the office. About the time of my journey in Angola, an offer was made +to any young men of ability who might wish to devote themselves to the +service of the Church, to afford them the requisite education at the +University of Coimbra in Portugal. I was informed, on what seemed good +authority, that the Prince of Congo is professedly a Christian, and that +there are no fewer than twelve churches in that kingdom, the fruits of +the mission established in former times at San Salvador, the capital. +These churches are kept in partial repair by the people, who also keep +up the ceremonies of the Church, pronouncing some gibberish over the +dead, in imitation of the Latin prayers which they had formerly heard. +Many of them can read and write. When a King of Congo dies, the body is +wrapped up in a great many folds of cloth until a priest can come from +Loanda to consecrate his successor. The King of Congo still retains +the title of Lord of Angola, which he had when the Jinga, the original +possessors of the soil, owed him allegiance; and, when he writes to the +Governor of Angola, he places his own name first, as if addressing his +vassal. The Jinga paid him tribute annually in cowries, which were found +on the island that shelters Loanda harbor, and, on refusing to continue +payment, the King of Congo gave over the island to the Portuguese, and +thus their dominion commenced in this quarter. + +There is not much knowledge of the Christian religion in either Congo +or Angola, yet it is looked upon with a certain degree of favor. The +prevalence of fever is probably the reason why no priest occupies a post +in any part of the interior. They come on tours of visitation like +that mentioned, and it is said that no expense is incurred, for all the +people are ready not only to pay for their services, but also to furnish +every article in their power gratuitously. In view of the desolate +condition of this fine missionary field, it is more than probable that +the presence of a few Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not +to love, to good works. + + + + +Chapter 22. + +Leave Pungo Andongo--Extent of Portuguese Power--Meet Traders and +Carriers--Red Ants; their fierce Attack; Usefulness; Numbers--Descend +the Heights of Tala Mungongo--Fruit-trees in the Valley of +Cassange--Edible Muscle--Birds--Cassange Village--Quinine and Cathory-- +Sickness of Captain Neves' Infant--A Diviner thrashed--Death of +the Child--Mourning--Loss of Life from the Ordeal--Wide-spread +Superstitions--The Chieftainship--Charms--Receive Copies of the +"Times"--Trading Pombeiros--Present for Matiamvo--Fever after westerly +Winds--Capabilities of Angola for producing the raw Materials of +English Manufacture--Trading Parties with Ivory--More Fever--A +Hyaena's Choice--Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese--Cypriano's Debt--A +Funeral--Dread of disembodied Spirits--Beautiful Morning Scenes-- +Crossing the Quango--Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola"--Fashions +of the Bashinje--Approach the Village of Sansawe--His Idea of +Dignity--The Pombeiros' Present--Long Detention--A Blow on the +Beard--Attacked in a Forest--Sudden Conversion of a fighting Chief +to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver--No Blood shed in +consequence--Rate of Traveling--Slave Women--Way of addressing +Slaves--Their thievish Propensities--Feeders of the Congo or +Zaire--Obliged to refuse Presents--Cross the Loajima--Appearance of +People; Hair Fashions. + + + +JANUARY 1, 1855. Having, through the kindness of Colonel Pires, +reproduced some of my lost papers, I left Pungo Andongo the first day of +this year, and at Candumba, slept in one of the dairy establishments of +my friend, who had sent forward orders for an ample supply of butter, +cheese, and milk. Our path lay along the right bank of the Coanza. This +is composed of the same sandstone rock, with pebbles, which forms the +flooring of the country. The land is level, has much open forest, and is +well adapted for pasturage. + +On reaching the confluence of the Lombe, we left the river, and +proceeded in a northeasterly direction, through a fine open green +country, to the village of Malange, where we struck into our former +path. A few miles to the west of this a path branches off to a new +district named the Duke Braganza. This path crosses the Lucalla and +several of its feeders. The whole of the country drained by these +is described as extremely fertile. The territory west of Braganza is +reported to be mountainous, well wooded and watered; wild coffee is +abundant, and the people even make their huts of coffee-trees. The +rivers Dande, Senza, and Lucalla are said to rise in one mountain +range. Numerous tribes inhabit the country to the north, who are all +independent. The Portuguese power extends chiefly over the tribes +through whose lands we have passed. It may be said to be firmly seated +only between the rivers Dande and Coanza. It extends inland about three +hundred miles to the River Quango; and the population, according to the +imperfect data afforded by the census, given annually by the commandants +of the fifteen or sixteen districts into which it is divided, can not be +under 600,000 souls. + +Leaving Malange, we passed quickly, without deviation, along the path +by which we had come. At Sanza (lat. 9d 37' 46" S., long. 16d 59' E.) we +expected to get a little seed-wheat, but this was not now to be found +in Angola. The underlying rock of the whole of this section is that same +sandstone which we have before noticed, but it gradually becomes finer +in the grain, with the addition of a little mica, the farther we go +eastward; we enter upon clay shale at Tala Mungongo (lat. 9d 42' 37" S., +long. 17d 27' E.), and find it dipping a little to the west. The general +geological structure is a broad fringe of mica and sandstone schist +(about 15 Deg. E.), dipping in toward the centre of the country, beneath +these horizontal and sedimentary rocks of more recent date, which form +an inland basin. The fringe is not, however, the highest in altitude, +though the oldest in age. + +While at this latter place we met a native of Bihe who has visited the +country of Shinte three times for the purposes of trade. He gave us some +of the news of that distant part, but not a word of the Makololo, +who have always been represented in the countries to the north as a +desperately savage race, whom no trader could visit with safety. The +half-caste traders whom we met at Shinte's had returned to Angola with +sixty-six slaves and upward of fifty tusks of ivory. As we came along +the path, we daily met long lines of carriers bearing large square +masses of beeswax, each about a hundred pounds weight, and numbers of +elephants' tusks, the property of Angolese merchants. Many natives were +proceeding to the coast also on their own account, carrying beeswax, +ivory, and sweet oil. They appeared to travel in perfect security; and +at different parts of the road we purchased fowls from them at a penny +each. My men took care to celebrate their own daring in having actually +entered ships, while the natives of these parts, who had endeavored to +frighten them on their way down, had only seen them at a distance. Poor +fellows! they were more than ever attentive to me; and, as they were not +obliged to erect sheds for themselves, in consequence of finding them +already built at the different sleeping-places, all their care was +bestowed in making me comfortable. Mashauana, as usual, made his bed +with his head close to my feet, and never during the entire journey did +I have to call him twice for any thing I needed. + +During our stay at Tala Mungongo, our attention was attracted to a +species of red ant which infests different parts of this country. It +is remarkably fond of animal food. The commandant of the village having +slaughtered a cow, slaves were obliged to sit up the whole night, +burning fires of straw around the meat, to prevent them from devouring +most of it. These ants are frequently met with in numbers like a small +army. At a little distance they appear as a brownish-red band, two or +three inches wide, stretched across the path, all eagerly pressing on in +one direction. If a person happens to tread upon them, they rush up his +legs and bite with surprising vigor. The first time I encountered this +by no means contemptible enemy was near Cassange. My attention being +taken up in viewing the distant landscape, I accidentally stepped +upon one of their nests. Not an instant seemed to elapse before a +simultaneous attack was made on various unprotected parts, up the +trowsers from below, and on my neck and breast above. The bites of these +furies were like sparks of fire, and there was no retreat. I jumped +about for a second or two, then in desperation tore off all my clothing, +and rubbed and picked them off seriatim as quickly as possible. Ugh! +they would make the most lethargic mortal look alive. Fortunately, no +one observed this rencounter, or word might have been taken back to the +village that I had become mad. I was once assaulted in a similar way +when sound asleep at night in my tent, and it was only by holding +my blanket over the fire that I could get rid of them. It is really +astonishing how such small bodies can contain so large an amount of +ill-nature. They not only bite, but twist themselves round after the +mandibles are inserted, to produce laceration and pain, more than would +be effected by the single wound. Frequently, while sitting on the ox, +as he happened to tread near a band, they would rush up his legs to the +rider, and soon let him know that he had disturbed their march. They +possess no fear, attacking with equal ferocity the largest as well as +the smallest animals. When any person has leaped over the band, numbers +of them leave the ranks and rush along the path, seemingly anxious for +a fight. They are very useful in ridding the country of dead animal +matter, and, when they visit a human habitation, clear it entirely of +the destructive white ants and other vermin. They destroy many noxious +insects and reptiles. The severity of their attack is greatly increased +by their vast numbers, and rats, mice, lizards, and even the 'Python +natalensis', when in a state of surfeit from recent feeding, fall +victims to their fierce onslaught. These ants never make hills like the +white ant. Their nests are but a short distance beneath the soil, which +has the soft appearance of the abodes of ants in England. Occasionally +they construct galleries over their path to the cells of the white ant, +in order to secure themselves from the heat of the sun during their +marauding expeditions. + +JANUARY 15TH, 1855. We descended in one hour from the heights of Tala +Mungongo. I counted the number of paces made on the slope downward, and +found them to be sixteen hundred, which may give a perpendicular height +of from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. Water boiled at 206 Degrees at +Tala Mungongo above, and at 208 Deg. at the bottom of the declivity, the +air being at 72 Deg. in the shade in the former case, and 94 Deg. in the +latter. The temperature generally throughout the day was from 94 Deg. to +97 Deg. in the coolest shade we could find. + +The rivulets which cut up the valley of Cassange were now dry, but the +Lui and Luare contained abundance of rather brackish water. The banks +are lined with palm, wild date-trees, and many guavas, the fruit of +which was now becoming ripe. A tree much like the mango abounds, but +it does not yield fruit. In these rivers a kind of edible muscle is +plentiful, the shells of which exist in all the alluvial beds of the +ancient rivers as far as the Kuruman. The brackish nature of the water +probably enables it to exist here. On the open grassy lawns great +numbers of a species of lark are seen. They are black, with +yellow shoulders. Another black bird, with a long tail ('Centropus +Senegalensis'), floats awkwardly, with its tail in a perpendicular +position, over the long grass. It always chooses the highest points, +and is caught on them with bird-lime, the long black tail-feathers +being highly esteemed by the natives for plumes. We saw here also the +"Lehututu" ('Tragopan Leadbeaterii'), a large bird strongly resembling +a turkey; it is black on the ground, but when it flies the outer half of +the wings are white. It kills serpents, striking them dexterously behind +the head. It derives its native name from the noise it makes, and it +is found as far as Kolobeng. Another species like it is called the +Abyssinian hornbill. + +Before we reached Cassange we were overtaken by the commandant, Senhor +Carvalho, who was returning, with a detachment of fifty men and a +field-piece, from an unsuccessful search after some rebels. The rebels +had fled, and all he could do was to burn their huts. He kindly invited +me to take up my residence with him; but, not wishing to pass by the +gentleman (Captain Neves) who had so kindly received me on my first +arrival in the Portuguese possessions, I declined. Senhor Rego had been +superseded in his command, because the Governor Amaral, who had come +into office since my departure from Loanda, had determined that the law +which requires the office of commandant to be exclusively occupied by +military officers of the line should once more come into operation. I +was again most kindly welcomed by my friend, Captain Neves, whom I found +laboring under a violent inflammation and abscess of the hand. There +is nothing in the situation of this village to indicate unhealthiness, +except, perhaps, the rank luxuriance of the vegetation. Nearly all +the Portuguese inhabitants suffer from enlargement of the spleen, +the effects of frequent intermittents, and have generally a sickly +appearance. Thinking that this affection of the hand was simply an +effort of nature to get rid of malarious matter from the system, I +recommended the use of quinine. He himself applied the leaf of a plant +called cathory, famed among the natives as an excellent remedy for +ulcers. The cathory leaves, when boiled, exude a gummy juice, which +effectually shuts out the external air. Each remedy, of course, claimed +the merit of the cure. + +Many of the children are cut off by fever. A fine boy of Captain Neves' +had, since my passage westward, shared a similar fate. Another child +died during the period of my visit. During his sickness, his mother, a +woman of color, sent for a diviner in order to ascertain what ought to +be done. The diviner, after throwing his dice, worked himself into the +state of ecstasy in which they pretend to be in communication with the +Barimo. He then gave the oracular response that the child was being +killed by the spirit of a Portuguese trader who once lived at Cassange. +The case was this: on the death of the trader, the other Portuguese +merchants in the village came together, and sold the goods of the +departed to each other, each man accounting for the portion received to +the creditors of the deceased at Loanda. The natives, looking on, +and not understanding the nature of written mercantile transactions, +concluded that the merchants of Cassange had simply stolen the dead +man's goods, and that now the spirit was killing the child of Captain +Neves for the part he had taken in the affair. The diviner, in his +response, revealed the impression made on his own mind by the sale, and +likewise the native ideas of departed souls. As they give the whites +credit for greater stupidity than themselves in all these matters, the +mother of the child came, and told the father that he ought to give a +slave to the diviner as a fee to make a sacrifice to appease the spirit +and save the life of the child. The father quietly sent for a neighbor, +and, though the diviner pretended to remain in his state of ecstasy, the +brisk application of two sticks to his back suddenly reduced him to his +senses and a most undignified flight. + +The mother of this child seemed to have no confidence in European +wisdom, and, though I desired her to keep the child out of currents of +wind, she preferred to follow her own custom, and even got it cupped +on the cheeks. The consequence was that the child was soon in a dying +state, and the father wishing it to be baptized, I commended its soul +to the care and compassion of Him who said, "Of such is the kingdom of +heaven." The mother at once rushed away, and commenced that doleful +wail which is so affecting, as it indicates sorrow without hope. She +continued it without intermission until the child was buried. In the +evening her female companions used a small musical instrument, which +produced a kind of screeching sound, as an accompaniment of the death +wail. + +In the construction of this instrument they make use of caoutchouc, +which, with a variety of other gums, is found in different parts of this +country. + +The intercourse which the natives have had with white men does not seem +to have much ameliorated their condition. A great number of persons are +reported to lose their lives annually in different districts of +Angola by the cruel superstitions to which they are addicted, and the +Portuguese authorities either know nothing of them, or are unable to +prevent their occurrence. The natives are bound to secrecy by those who +administer the ordeal, which generally causes the death of the victim. +A person, when accused of witchcraft, will often travel from distant +districts in order to assert her innocency and brave the test. They come +to a river on the Cassange called Dua, drink the infusion of a poisonous +tree, and perish unknown. + +A woman was accused by a brother-in-law of being the cause of his +sickness while we were at Cassange. She offered to take the ordeal, +as she had the idea that it would but prove her conscious innocence. +Captain Neves refused his consent to her going, and thus saved her life, +which would have been sacrificed, for the poison is very virulent. When +a strong stomach rejects it, the accuser reiterates his charge; the dose +is repeated, and the person dies. Hundreds perish thus every year in the +valley of Cassange. + +The same superstitious ideas being prevalent through the whole of the +country north of the Zambesi, seems to indicate that the people must +originally have been one. All believe that the souls of the departed +still mingle among the living, and partake in some way of the food they +consume. In sickness, sacrifices of fowls and goats are made to appease +the spirits. It is imagined that they wish to take the living away +from earth and all its enjoyments. When one man has killed another, +a sacrifice is made, as if to lay the spirit of the victim. A sect is +reported to exist who kill men in order to take their hearts and offer +them to the Barimo. + +The chieftainship is elective from certain families. Among the Bangalas +of the Cassange valley the chief is chosen from three families in +rotation. A chief's brother inherits in preference to his son. The sons +of a sister belong to her brother; and he often sells his nephews to pay +his debts. By this and other unnatural customs, more than by war, is the +slave-market supplied. + +The prejudices in favor of these practices are very deeply rooted in +the native mind. Even at Loanda they retire out of the city in order +to perform their heathenish rites without the cognizance of the +authorities. Their religion, if such it may be called, is one of dread. +Numbers of charms are employed to avert the evils with which they feel +themselves to be encompassed. Occasionally you meet a man, more cautious +or more timid than the rest, with twenty or thirty charms round his +neck. He seems to act upon the principle of Proclus, in his prayer to +all the gods and goddesses: among so many he surely must have the right +one. The disrespect which Europeans pay to the objects of their fear is +to their minds only an evidence of great folly. + +While here, I reproduced the last of my lost papers and maps; and +as there is a post twice a month from Loanda, I had the happiness to +receive a packet of the "Times", and, among other news, an account of +the Russian war up to the terrible charge of the light cavalry. The +intense anxiety I felt to hear more may be imagined by every true +patriot; but I was forced to brood on in silent thought, and utter my +poor prayers for friends who perchance were now no more, until I reached +the other side of the continent. + +A considerable trade is carried on by the Cassange merchants with all +the surrounding territory by means of native traders, whom they term +"Pombeiros". Two of these, called in the history of Angola "the trading +blacks" (os feirantes pretos), Pedro Joao Baptista and Antonio Jose, +having been sent by the first Portuguese trader that lived at Cassange, +actually returned from some of the Portuguese possessions in the East +with letters from the governor of Mozambique in the year 1815, proving, +as is remarked, "the possibility of so important a communication between +Mozambique and Loanda." This is the only instance of native Portuguese +subjects crossing the continent. No European ever accomplished +it, though this fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been +"PORTUGUESE". + +Captain Neves was now actively engaged in preparing a present, worth +about fifty pounds, to be sent by Pombeiros to Matiamvo. It consisted +of great quantities of cotton cloth, a large carpet, an arm-chair with +a canopy and curtains of crimson calico, an iron bedstead, mosquito +curtains, beads, etc., and a number of pictures rudely painted in oil by +an embryo black painter at Cassange. + +Matiamvo, like most of the natives in the interior of the country, has +a strong desire to possess a cannon, and had sent ten large tusks to +purchase one; but, being government property, it could not be sold: he +was now furnished with a blunderbuss, mounted as a cannon, which would +probably please him as well. + +Senhor Graca and some other Portuguese have visited this chief at +different times; but no European resides beyond the Quango; indeed, it +is contrary to the policy of the government of Angola to allow their +subjects to penetrate further into the interior. The present would have +been a good opportunity for me to have visited that chief, and I +felt strongly inclined to do so, as he had expressed dissatisfaction +respecting my treatment by the Chiboque, and even threatened to punish +them. As it would be improper to force my men to go thither, I +resolved to wait and see whether the proposition might not emanate from +themselves. When I can get the natives to agree in the propriety of any +step, they go to the end of the affair without a murmur. I speak to them +and treat them as rational beings, and generally get on well with them +in consequence. + +I have already remarked on the unhealthiness of Cassange; and Captain +Neves, who possesses an observing turn of mind, had noticed that always +when the west wind blows much fever immediately follows. As long as +easterly winds prevail, all enjoy good health; but in January, February, +March, and April, the winds are variable, and sickness is general. +The unhealthiness of the westerly winds probably results from malaria, +appearing to be heavier than common air, and sweeping down into the +valley of Cassange from the western plateau, somewhat in the same way +as the carbonic acid gas from bean-fields is supposed by colliers to do +into coal-pits. In the west of Scotland strong objections are made by +that body of men to farmers planting beans in their vicinity, from the +belief that they render the mines unhealthy. The gravitation of the +malaria from the more elevated land of Tala Mungongo toward Cassange +is the only way the unhealthiness of this spot on the prevalence of the +westerly winds can be accounted for. The banks of the Quango, though +much more marshy, and covered with ranker vegetation, are comparatively +healthy; but thither the westerly wind does not seem to convey the +noxious agent. + +FEB. 20TH. On the day of starting from Cassange, the westerly wind blew +strongly, and on the day following we were brought to a stand by several +of our party being laid up with fever. This complaint is the only +serious drawback Angola possesses. It is in every other respect an +agreeable land, and admirably adapted for yielding a rich abundance of +tropical produce for the rest of the world. Indeed, I have no hesitation +in asserting that, had it been in the possession of England, it would +now have been yielding as much or more of the raw material for her +manufactures as an equal extent of territory in the cotton-growing +states of America. A railway from Loanda to this valley would secure the +trade of most of the interior of South Central Africa.* + + * The following statistics may be of interest to mercantile + men. They show that since the repression of the slave-trade in + Angola the value of the exports in lawful commerce has + steadily augmented. We have no returns since 1850, but the + prosperity of legitimate trade has suffered no check. The + duties are noted in Portuguese money, "milreis", each of which + is about three shillings in value. + + + Return of the Quantities and Value of the Staple Articles, the + Produce of the Province of ANGOLA, exported from ST. PAUL DE + LOANDA between July 1, 1848, and June 30, 1849, specifying the + Quantities and Value of those exported in Portuguese Ships and + in Ships of other Nations. + + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | In Portuguese Ships. || In Ships of other Nations. | + | Articles. |------------------------||----------------------------| + | | Amount. | Value. || Amount. | Value. | + |-----------------|---------|--------------||-------------|--------------| + | | | L. s. d. || | L. s. d. | + | Ivory. . . Cwt. | 1454 | 35,350 0 0 || 515 | 12,875 0 0 | + | Palm oil . " | 1440 | 2,160 0 0 || 6671 1 qr. | 10,036 17 6 | + | Coffee . . " | 152 | 304 0 0 || 684 | 1,368 0 0 | + | Hides. . . No. | 1837 | 633 17 6 || 849 | 318 17 6 | + | Gum. . . . Cwt. | 147 | 205 16 0 || 4763 | 6,668 4 0 | + | Beeswax. . " | 1109 | 6,654 0 0 || 544 | 3,264 0 0 | + | Orchella . Tons | 630 | 23,940 0 0 || .... | .... | + | | |--------------|| |--------------| + | | | 69,247 13 6 || | 34,530 19 0 | + -------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + TOTAL Quantity and Value of Exports from LOANDA. + + L. s. d. + Ivory . . . Cwt. 1969 . . . . 48,225 0 0 + Palm oil. . " 8111 1 qr. . . . . 12,196 17 6 + Coffee. . . " 836 . . . . 1,672 0 0 + Hides . . . No. 2686 . . . . 952 15 0 + Gum . . . . Cwt. 4910 . . . . 6,874 0 0 + Beeswax . . " 1653 . . . . 9,918 0 0 + Orchella. . Tons 630 . . . . 23,940 0 0 + ------------- + L. 103,778 12 6 + + ABSTRACT VIEW of the Net Revenue of the Customs at St. Paul de Loanda + in quinquennial periods from 1818-19 to 1843-44, both included; + and thence in each year to 1848-49. + + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | |Tonnage Dues,| + | | Duties on | Duties on |Duties on | Duties on |Store Rents, | + | Years. | Importation.|Exportation.|Re-export-| Slaves. | and other | + | | | | ation. | | incidental | + | | | | | | Receipts. | + |---------|-------------|------------|----------|------------|-------------| + | | Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.|Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.| Mil. reis.| + | 1818-19 | 573 876 | ... | .... |137,320 800 | 148,608 661 | + | 1823-24 | 3,490 752 | 460 420 | .... |120,843 000 | 133,446 892 | + | 1828-29 | 4,700 684 | 800 280 | .... |125,330 000 | 139,981 364 | + | 1833-34 | 7,490 000 | 1,590 000 | .... |139,280 000 | 158,978 640 | + | 1838-39 | 25,800 590 | 2,720 000 | .... |135,470 320 | 173,710 910 | + | 1843-44 | 53,240 000 | 4,320 000 | .... | 72,195 230 | 138,255 230 | + | 1844-45 | 99,380 264 | 6,995 095 | .... | 17,676 000 | 134,941 359 | + | 1845-46 | 150,233 789 | 9,610 735 | .... | 5,116 500 | 181,423 550 | + | 1846-47 | 122,501 186 | 8,605 821 | .... | 549 000 | 114,599 235 | + | 1847-48 | 119,246 826 | 9,718 676 | 4097 868 | 1,231 200 | 146,321 476 | + | 1848-49 | 131,105 453 | 9,969 960 | 1164 309 | 1,183 500 | 157,152 400 | + | |-------------|------------| |------------| | + | | 717,763 420*| 54,790 987 | |756,195 550 | | + | | = L.102,680 | = L.7827 | |= L.108,028 | | + ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- + * This figure was originally miscalculated as 718,763 420, + which probably affected its conversion into Pounds.--A. L., 1997. + + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | Net Revenue | Revenue from | Total Net | Total Amount | + | Years. | of Customs. | other Sources. | Revenue. | of Charges. | + |---------|--------------|----------------|--------------|--------------| + | | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | L. s. d. | + | 1844-45 | 26,988 5 5 | 9,701 10 8 | 36,689 16 1 | 53,542 5 4 | + | 1845-46 | 36,284 14 2 | 24,580 4 10 | 60,864 19 0 | 56,695 9 7 | + | 1846-47 | 28,919 16 11 | 23,327 9 11 | 52,247 6 10 | 52,180 9 7 | + | 1847-48 | 29,264 5 10 | 24,490 11 8 | 53,754 17 6 | 53,440 8 8 | + | 1848-49 | 31,430 9 7 | 18,868 3 10 | 51,298 13 5 | 50,686 3 3 | + ------------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + The above account exhibits the total revenue and charges of + the government of St. Paul de Loanda in each year, from 1844- + 45 to 1848-49, both included. The above three tables are + copied from the appendix to a dispatch sent by Mr. Gabriel to + Viscount Palmerston, dated the 5th of August, 1850, and, among + other facts of interest, show a very satisfactory diminution + in the duties upon slaves. + + The returns from 1818 to 1844 have been obtained from + different sources as the average revenue; those from 1844 to + 1849 are from the Custom-house records. + +As soon as we could move toward the Quango we did so, meeting in our +course several trading-parties, both native and Portuguese. We met two +of the latter carrying a tusk weighing 126 lbs. The owner afterward +informed us that its fellow on the left side of the same elephant was +130 lbs. It was 8 feet 6-1/2 inches long, and 21 inches in circumference +at the part on which the lip of the animal rests. The elephant was +rather a small one, as is common in this hot central region. Some idea +may be formed of the strength of his neck when it is recollected that +he bore a weight of 256 lbs. The ivory which comes from the east and +northeast of Cassange is very much larger than any to be found further +south. Captain Neves had one weighing 120 lbs., and this weight is by no +means uncommon. They have been found weighing even 158 lbs. + +Before reaching the Quango we were again brought to a stand by fever +in two of my companions, close to the residence of a Portuguese who +rejoiced in the name of William Tell, and who lived here in spite of the +prohibition of the government. We were using the water of a pond, and +this gentleman, having come to invite me to dinner, drank a little of +it, and caught fever in consequence. If malarious matter existed in +water, it would have been a wonder had we escaped; for, traveling in the +sun, with the thermometer from 96 Degrees to 98 Degrees in the shade, +the evaporation from our bodies causing much thirst, we generally +partook of every water we came to. We had probably thus more disease +than others might suffer who had better shelter. + +Mr. Tell remarked that his garden was rather barren, being still, as +he said, wild; but when more worked it would become better, though no +manure be applied. My men were busy collecting a better breed of fowls +and pigeons than those in their own country. Mr. Tell presented +them with some large specimens from Rio Janeiro. Of these they were +wonderfully proud, and bore the cock in triumph through the country +of the Balonda, as evidence of having been to the sea. But when at the +village of Shinte, a hyaena came into our midst when we were all sound +asleep, and picked out the giant in his basket from eighty-four others, +and he was lost, to the great grief of my men. The anxiety these people +have always shown to improve the breed of their domestic animals is, I +think, a favorable point in their character. On looking at the common +breeds in the possession of the Portuguese, which are merely native +cattle, and seeing them slaughter both heifer-calves and cows, which +they themselves never do, and likewise making no use of the milk, they +concluded that the Portuguese must be an inferior race of white men. +They never ceased remarking on the fine ground for gardens over which +we were passing; and when I happened to mention that most of the flour +which the Portuguese consumed came from another country, they exclaimed, +"Are they ignorant of tillage?" "They know nothing but buying and +selling: they are not men." I hope it may reach the ears of my Angolese +friends, and that they may be stirred up to develop the resources of +their fine country. + +On coming back to Cypriano's village on the 28th, we found that his +step-father had died after we had passed, and, according to the custom +of the country, he had spent more than his patrimony in funeral orgies. +He acted with his wonted kindness, though, unfortunately, drinking +has got him so deeply in debt that he now keeps out of the way of his +creditors. He informed us that the source of the Quango is eight days, +or one hundred miles, to the south of this, and in a range called +Mosamba, in the country of the Basongo. We can see from this a sort +of break in the high land which stretches away round to Tala Mongongo, +through which the river comes. + +A death had occurred in a village about a mile off, and the people were +busy beating drums and firing guns. The funeral rites are half festive, +half mourning, partaking somewhat of the character of an Irish wake. +There is nothing more heart-rending than their death wails. When the +natives turn their eyes to the future world, they have a view cheerless +enough of their own utter helplessness and hopelessness. They fancy +themselves completely in the power of the disembodied spirits, and look +upon the prospect of following them as the greatest of misfortunes. +Hence they are constantly deprecating the wrath of departed souls, +believing that, if they are appeased, there is no other cause of death +but witchcraft, which may be averted by charms. The whole of the colored +population of Angola are sunk in these gross superstitions, but have +the opinion, notwithstanding, that they are wiser in these matters than +their white neighbors. Each tribe has a consciousness of following its +own best interests in the best way. They are by no means destitute of +that self-esteem which is so common in other nations; yet they fear +all manner of phantoms, and have half-developed ideas and traditions of +something or other, they know not what. The pleasures of animal life +are ever present to their minds as the supreme good; and, but for the +innumerable invisibilities, they might enjoy their luxurious climate as +much as it is possible for man to do. I have often thought, in traveling +through their land, that it presents pictures of beauty which angels +might enjoy. How often have I beheld, in still mornings, scenes the very +essence of beauty, and all bathed in a quiet air of delicious warmth! +yet the occasional soft motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness +as of a fan. Green grassy meadows, the cattle feeding, the goats +browsing, the kids skipping, the groups of herd-boys with miniature +bows, arrows, and spears; the women wending their way to the river with +watering-pots poised jauntily on their heads; men sewing under the shady +banians; and old gray-headed fathers sitting on the ground, with staff +in hand, listening to the morning gossip, while others carry trees or +branches to repair their hedges; and all this, flooded with the bright +African sunshine, and the birds singing among the branches before the +heat of the day has become intense, form pictures which can never be +forgotten. + +We were informed that a chief named Gando, living on the other side of +the river, having been accused of witchcraft, was killed by the ordeal, +and his body thrown into the Quango. + +The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but received six +thankfully. The canoes were wretched, carrying only two persons at a +time; but my men being well acquainted with the water, we all got +over in about two hours and a half. They excited the admiration of the +inhabitants by the manner in which they managed the cattle and donkeys +in crossing. The most stubborn of beasts found himself powerless in +their hands. Five or six, seizing hold on one, bundled him at once into +the stream, and, in this predicament, he always thought it best policy +to give in and swim. The men sometimes swam along with the cattle, and +forced them to go on by dashing water at their heads. The difference +between my men and those of the native traders who accompanied us was +never more apparent than now; for, while my men felt an interest in +every thing we possessed in common, theirs were rather glad when the +oxen refused to cross, for, being obliged to slaughter them on such +occasions, the loss to their masters was a welcome feast to themselves. + +On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without visiting our +friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence of some Ambakistas +who had crossed the river in order to secure the first chances of trade +in wax. I have before remarked on the knowledge of reading and writing +that these Ambakistas possess; they are famed for their love of all +sorts of learning within their reach, a knowledge of the history of +Portugal, Portuguese law, etc., etc. They are remarkably keen in trade, +and are sometimes called the Jews of Angola. They are employed as clerks +and writers, their feminine delicacy of constitution enabling them to +write a fine lady's hand, a kind of writing much esteemed among the +Portuguese. They are not physically equal to the European Portuguese, +but possess considerable ability; and it is said that half-castes, +in the course of a few generations, return to the black color of the +maternal ancestor. The black population of Angola has become much +deteriorated. They are not so strongly formed as the independent tribes. +A large quantity of aguardiente, an inferior kind of spirit, is imported +into the country, which is most injurious in its effects. We saw many +parties carrying casks of this baneful liquor to the independent chiefs +beyond; and were informed that it is difficult for any trader to convey +it far, carriers being in the habit of helping themselves by means of a +straw, and then injecting an equal amount of water when near the point +of delivery. To prevent this, it is common to see large demijohns +with padlocks on the corks. These are frequently stolen. In fact, the +carriers are much addicted to both lying and thieving, as might be +expected from the lowest class of a people on whom the debasing slave +system has acted for two centuries. + +The Bashinje, in whose country we now are, seem to possess more of the +low negro character and physiognomy than either the Balonda or Basongo; +their color is generally dirty black, foreheads low and compressed, +noses flat and much expanded laterally, though this is partly owing to +the alae spreading over the cheeks, by the custom of inserting bits of +sticks or reeds in the septum; their teeth are deformed by being filed +to points; their lips are large. They make a nearer approach to a +general negro appearance than any tribes I met; but I did not notice +this on my way down. They cultivate pretty largely, and rely upon their +agricultural products for their supplies of salt, flesh, tobacco, etc., +from Bangalas. Their clothing consists of pieces of skin, hung +loosely from the girdle in front and behind. They plait their hair +fantastically. We saw some women coming with their hair woven into the +form of a European hat, and it was only by a closer inspection that its +nature was detected. Others had it arranged in tufts, with a threefold +cord along the ridge of each tuft; while others, again, follow the +ancient Egyptian fashion, having the whole mass of wool plaited into +cords, all hanging down as far as the shoulders. This mode, with the +somewhat Egyptian cast of countenance in other parts of Londa, reminded +me strongly of the paintings of that nation in the British Museum. + +We had now rain every day, and the sky seldom presented that cloudless +aspect and clear blue so common in the dry lands of the south. The +heavens are often overcast by large white motionless masses, which stand +for hours in the same position, and the intervening spaces are filled +with a milk-and-water-looking haze. Notwithstanding these unfavorable +circumstances, I obtained good observations for the longitude of this +important point on both sides of the Quango, and found the river running +in 9d 50' S. lat., 18d 33' E. long. + +On proceeding to our former station near Sansawe's village, he ran to +meet us with wonderful urbanity, asking if we had seen Moene Put, king +of the white men (or Portuguese); and added, on parting, that he would +come to receive his dues in the evening. I replied that, as he had +treated us so scurvily, even forbidding his people to sell us any food, +if he did not bring us a fowl and some eggs as part of his duty as a +chief, he should receive no present from me. When he came, it was in the +usual Londa way of showing the exalted position he occupies, mounted on +the shoulders of his spokesman, as schoolboys sometimes do in England, +and as was represented to have been the case in the southern islands +when Captain Cook visited them. My companions, amused at his idea of +dignity, greeted him with a hearty laugh. He visited the native traders +first, and then came to me with two cocks as a present. I spoke to him +about the impolicy of treatment we had received at his hands, and quoted +the example of the Bangalas, who had been conquered by the Portuguese, +for their extortionate demands of payment for firewood, grass, water, +etc., and concluded by denying his right to any payment for simply +passing through uncultivated land. To all this he agreed; and then I +gave him, as a token of friendship, a pannikin of coarse powder, two +iron spoons, and two yards of coarse printed calico. He looked rather +saucily at these articles, for he had just received a barrel containing +18 lbs. of powder, 24 yards of calico, and two bottles of brandy, from +Senhor Pascoal the Pombeiro. Other presents were added the next day, +but we gave nothing more; and the Pombeiros informed me that it was +necessary to give largely, because they are accompanied by slaves and +carriers who are no great friends to their masters; and if they did not +secure the friendship of these petty chiefs, many slaves and their loads +might be stolen while passing through the forests. It is thus a sort of +black-mail that these insignificant chiefs levy; and the native traders, +in paying, do so simply as a bribe to keep them honest. This chief was +a man of no power, but in our former ignorance of this he plagued us a +whole day in passing. + +Finding the progress of Senhor Pascoal and the other Pombeiros +excessively slow, I resolved to forego his company to Cabango after I +had delivered to him some letters to be sent back to Cassange. I went +forward with the intention of finishing my writing, and leaving a packet +for him at some village. We ascended the eastern acclivity that bounds +the Cassange valley, which has rather a gradual ascent up from the +Quango, and we found that the last ascent, though apparently not quite +so high as that at Tala Mungongo, is actually much higher. The top is +about 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and the bottom 3500 feet; +water boiling on the heights at 202 Deg., the thermometer in the air +showing 96 Deg.; and at the bottom at 205 Deg., the air being 75 Deg. We +had now gained the summit of the western subtending ridge, and began to +descend toward the centre of the country, hoping soon to get out of the +Chiboque territory, which, when we ascended from the Cassange valley, +we had entered; but, on the 19th of April, the intermittent, which had +begun on the 16th of March, was changed into an extremely severe attack +of rheumatic fever. This was brought on by being obliged to sleep on an +extensive plain covered with water. The rain poured down incessantly, +but we formed our beds by dragging up the earth into oblong mounds, +somewhat like graves in a country church-yard, and then placing grass +upon them. The rain continuing to deluge us, we were unable to leave +for two days, but as soon as it became fair we continued our march. The +heavy dew upon the high grass was so cold as to cause shivering, and I +was forced to lie by for eight days, tossing and groaning with violent +pain in the head. This was the most severe attack I had endured. It made +me quite unfit to move, or even know what was passing outside my little +tent. Senhor Pascoal, who had been detained by the severe rain at a +better spot, at last came up, and, knowing that leeches abounded in the +rivulets, procured a number, and applied some dozens to the nape of +the neck and the loins. This partially relieved the pain. He was then +obliged to move forward, in order to purchase food for his large party. +After many days I began to recover, and wished to move on, but my men +objected to the attempt on account of my weakness. When Senhor +Pascoal had been some time at the village in front, as he had received +instructions from his employer, Captain Neves, to aid me as much as +possible, and being himself a kindly-disposed person, he sent back two +messengers to invite me to come on, if practicable. + +It happened that the head man of the village where I had lain twenty-two +days, while bargaining and quarreling in my camp for a piece of meat, +had been struck on the mouth by one of my men. My principal men paid +five pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement; but the more they +yielded, the more exorbitant he became, and he sent word to all the +surrounding villages to aid him in avenging the affront of a blow on the +beard. As their courage usually rises with success, I resolved to +yield no more, and departed. In passing through a forest in the country +beyond, we were startled by a body of men rushing after us. They began +by knocking down the burdens of the hindermost of my men, and several +shots were fired, each party spreading out on both sides of the path. I +fortunately had a six-barreled revolver, which my friend Captain Henry +Need, of her majesty's brig "Linnet", had considerately sent to Golungo +Alto after my departure from Loanda. Taking this in my hand, and +forgetting fever, I staggered quickly along the path with two or three +of my men, and fortunately encountered the chief. The sight of the six +barrels gaping into his stomach, with my own ghastly visage looking +daggers at his face, seemed to produce an instant revolution in his +martial feelings, for he cried out, "Oh! I have only come to speak to +you, and wish peace only." Mashauana had hold of him by the hand, and +found him shaking. We examined his gun, and found that it had been +discharged. Both parties crowded up to their chiefs. One of the opposite +party coming too near, one of mine drove him back with a battle-axe. The +enemy protested their amicable intentions, and my men asserted the fact +of having the goods knocked down as evidence of the contrary. Without +waiting long, I requested all to sit down, and Pitsane, placing his +hand upon the revolver, somewhat allayed their fears. I then said to the +chief, "If you have come with peaceable intentions, we have no other; go +away home to your village." He replied, "I am afraid lest you shoot me +in the back." I rejoined, "If I wanted to kill you, I could shoot you +in the face as well." Mosantu called out to me, "That's only a Makalaka +trick; don't give him your back." But I said, "Tell him to observe that +I am not afraid of him;" and, turning, mounted my ox. There was not much +danger in the fire that was opened at first, there being so many trees. +The enemy probably expected that the sudden attack would make us forsake +our goods, and allow them to plunder with ease. The villagers were no +doubt pleased with being allowed to retire unscathed, and we were +also glad to get away without having shed a drop of blood, or having +compromised ourselves for any future visit. My men were delighted with +their own bravery, and made the woods ring with telling each other +how "brilliant their conduct before the enemy" would have been, had +hostilities not been brought to a sudden close. + +I do not mention this little skirmish as a very frightful affair. The +negro character in these parts, and in Angola, is essentially cowardly, +except when influenced by success. A partial triumph over any body of +men would induce the whole country to rise in arms, and this is the +chief danger to be feared. These petty chiefs have individually but +little power, and with my men, now armed with guns, I could have easily +beaten them off singly; but, being of the same family, they would +readily unite in vast numbers if incited by prospects of successful +plunder. They are by no means equal to the Cape Caffres in any respect +whatever. + +In the evening we came to Moena Kikanje, and found him a sensible man. +He is the last of the Chiboque chiefs in this direction, and is in +alliance with Matiamvo, whose territory commences a short distance +beyond. His village is placed on the east bank of the Quilo, which is +here twenty yards wide, and breast deep. + +The country was generally covered with forest, and we slept every night +at some village. I was so weak, and had become so deaf from the effects +of the fever, that I was glad to avail myself of the company of Senhor +Pascoal and the other native traders. Our rate of traveling was only two +geographical miles per hour, and the average number of hours three and +a half per day, or seven miles. Two thirds of the month was spent +in stoppages, there being only ten traveling days in each month. The +stoppages were caused by sickness, and the necessity of remaining in +different parts to purchase food; and also because, when one carrier was +sick, the rest refused to carry his load. + +One of the Pombeiros had eight good-looking women in a chain whom he was +taking to the country of Matiamvo to sell for ivory. They always looked +ashamed when I happened to come near them, and must have felt keenly +their forlorn and degraded position. I believe they were captives taken +from the rebel Cassanges. The way in which slaves are spoken of in +Angola and eastern Africa must sound strangely even to the owners when +they first come from Europe. In Angola the common appellation is "o +diabo", or "brutu"; and it is quite usual to hear gentlemen call out, "O +diabo! bring fire." In eastern Africa, on the contrary, they apply the +term "bicho" (an animal), and you hear the phrase, "Call the ANIMAL to +do this or that." In fact, slave-owners come to regard their slaves +as not human, and will curse them as the "race of a dog". Most of the +carriers of my traveling companions were hired Basongo, and required +constant vigilance to prevent them stealing the goods they carried. +Salt, which is one of the chief articles conveyed into the country, +became considerably lighter as we went along, but the carriers shielded +themselves by saying that it had been melted by the rain. Their burdens +were taken from them every evening, and placed in security under the +guardianship of Senhor Pascoal's own slaves. It was pitiable to observe +the worrying life he led. There was the greatest contrast possible +between the conduct of his people and that of my faithful Makololo. + +We crossed the Loange, a deep but narrow stream, by a bridge. It becomes +much larger, and contains hippopotami, lower down. It is the boundary of +Londa on the west. We slept also on the banks of the Pezo, now flooded, +and could not but admire their capabilities for easy irrigation. On +reaching the River Chikapa (lat. 10d 10' S., long. 19d 42' E.), the 25th +of March, we found it fifty or sixty yards wide, and flowing E.N.E. into +the Kasai. The adjacent country is of the same level nature as that part +of Londa formerly described; but, having come farther to the eastward +than our previous course, we found that all the rivers had worn for +themselves much deeper valleys than at the points we had formerly +crossed them. + +Surrounded on all sides by large gloomy forests, the people of these +parts have a much more indistinct idea of the geography of their country +than those who live in hilly regions. It was only after long and patient +inquiry that I became fully persuaded that the Quilo runs into the +Chikapa. As we now crossed them both considerably farther down, and were +greatly to the eastward of our first route, there can be no doubt that +these rivers take the same course as the others, into the Kasai, and +that I had been led into a mistake in saying that any of them flowed to +the westward. Indeed, it was only at this time that I began to perceive +that all the western feeders of the Kasai, except the Quango, flow first +from the western side toward the centre of the country, then gradually +turn, with the Kasai itself, to the north; and, after the confluence of +the Kasai with the Quango, an immense body of water, collected from all +these branches, finds its way out of the country by means of the River +Congo or Zaire on the west coast. + +The people living along the path we are now following were quite +accustomed to the visits of native traders, and did not feel in any way +bound to make presents of food except for the purpose of cheating: thus, +a man gave me a fowl and some meal, and, after a short time, returned. +I offered him a handsome present of beads; but these he declined, and +demanded a cloth instead, which was far more than the value of his +gift. They did the same with my men, until we had to refuse presents +altogether. Others made high demands because I slept in a "house of +cloth", and must be rich. They seemed to think that they had a perfect +right to payment for simply passing through the country. + +Beyond the Chikapa we crossed the Kamaue, a small deep stream proceeding +from the S.S.W., and flowing into the Chikapa. + +On the 30th of April we reached the Loajima, where we had to form a +bridge to effect our passage. This was not so difficult an operation +as some might imagine; for a tree was growing in a horizontal position +across part of the stream, and, there being no want of the tough +climbing plants which admit of being knitted like ropes, Senhor P. soon +constructed a bridge. The Loajima was here about twenty-five yards wide, +but very much deeper than where I had crossed before on the shoulders of +Mashauana. The last rain of this season had fallen on the 28th, and +had suddenly been followed by a great decrease of the temperature. The +people in these parts seemed more slender in form, and their color a +lighter olive, than any we had hitherto met. The mode of dressing the +great masses of woolly hair which lay upon their shoulders, together +with their general features, again reminded me of the ancient Egyptians. +Several were seen with the upward inclination of the outer angles of +the eye, but this was not general. A few of the ladies adopt a curious +custom of attaching the hair to a hoop which encircles the head, giving +it somewhat the appearance of the glory round the head of the Virgin +(wood-cut No. 1*). Some have a small hoop behind that represented in the +wood-cut. Others wear an ornament of woven hair and hide adorned with +beads. The hair of the tails of buffaloes, which are to be found farther +east, is sometimes added. This is represented in No. 2. While others, +as in No. 3, weave their own hair on pieces of hide into the form +of buffalo horns; or, as in No. 4, make a single horn in front. The +features given are frequently met with, but they are by no means +universal. Many tattoo their bodies by inserting some black substance +beneath the skin, which leaves an elevated cicatrix about half an inch +long: these are made in the form of stars, and other figures of no +particular beauty. + + * Unfortunately these wood-cuts can not be represented in this + ASCII text. + + No. 1 appears like a wheel with spokes of hair + connecting it to the head. + + No. 2 appears somewhat like a tiara sloped forward, as the bow + of a ship. + + No. 3 appears like gently curving horns. There is a part in + the middle, and the hair, on leather frames, curls outward and + upward at the temples. + + No. 4 is likewise, but the single horn curves outward and + upward from the forehead--it is labelled "A Young Man's + Fashion". Except for No. 1, all are represented as having the + rest of their hair hanging in braids around the sides and + back. All of the faces, as Livingstone asserts, appear much + like paintings of ancient Egyptians, and could easily be + European except for the shading and the slanted eyes. They are + all handsome.--A. L., 1997. + + + + +Chapter 23. + +Make a Detour southward--Peculiarities of the Inhabitants--Scarcity of +Animals--Forests--Geological Structure of the Country--Abundance and +Cheapness of Food near the Chihombo--A Slave lost--The Makololo Opinion +of Slaveholders--Funeral Obsequies in Cabango--Send a Sketch of the +Country to Mr. Gabriel--Native Information respecting the Kasai and +Quango--The Trade with Luba--Drainage of Londa--Report of Matiamvo's +Country and Government--Senhor Faria's Present to a Chief--The Balonda +Mode of spending Time--Faithless Guide--Makololo lament the Ignorance +of the Balonda--Eagerness of the Villagers for Trade--Civility of +a Female Chief--The Chief Bango and his People--Refuse to eat +Beef--Ambition of Africans to have a Village--Winters in the +Interior--Spring at Kolobeng--White Ants: "Never could desire to eat +any thing better"--Young Herbage and Animals--Valley of the Loembwe-- +The white Man a Hobgoblin--Specimen of Quarreling--Eager Desire for +Calico--Want of Clothing at Kawawa's--Funeral Observances--Agreeable +Intercourse with Kawawa--His impudent Demand--Unpleasant +Parting--Kawawa tries to prevent our crossing the River +Kasai--Stratagem. + + + +We made a little detour to the southward in order to get provisions in +a cheaper market. This led us along the rivulet called Tamba, where +we found the people, who had not been visited so frequently by the +slave-traders as the rest, rather timid and very civil. It was agreeable +to get again among the uncontaminated, and to see the natives look at us +without that air of superciliousness which is so unpleasant and common +in the beaten track. The same olive color prevailed. They file their +teeth to a point, which makes the smile of the women frightful, as it +reminds one of the grin of an alligator. The inhabitants throughout this +country exhibit as great a variety of taste as appears on the surface +of society among ourselves. Many of the men are dandies; their shoulders +are always wet with the oil dropping from their lubricated hair, and +every thing about them is ornamented in one way or another. Some thrum +a musical instrument the livelong day, and, when they wake at night, +proceed at once to their musical performance. Many of these musicians +are too poor to have iron keys to their instrument, but make them of +bamboo, and persevere, though no one hears the music but themselves. +Others try to appear warlike by never going out of their huts except +with a load of bows and arrows, or a gun ornamented with a strip of hide +for every animal they have shot; and others never go any where without a +canary in a cage. Ladies may be seen carefully tending little lap-dogs, +which are intended to be eaten. Their villages are generally in forests, +and composed of groups of irregularly-planted brown huts, with banana +and cotton trees, and tobacco growing around. There is also at every +hut a high stage erected for drying manioc roots and meal, and elevated +cages to hold domestic fowls. Round baskets are laid on the thatch of +the huts for the hens to lay in, and on the arrival of strangers, men, +women, and children ply their calling as hucksters with a great deal of +noisy haggling; all their transactions are conducted with civil banter +and good temper. + +My men, having the meat of the oxen which we slaughtered from time to +time for sale, were entreated to exchange it for meal; no matter how +small the pieces offered were, it gave them pleasure to deal. + +The landscape around is green, with a tint of yellow, the grass long, +the paths about a foot wide, and generally worn deeply in the middle. +The tall overhanging grass, when brushed against by the feet and legs, +disturbed the lizards and mice, and occasionally a serpent, causing a +rustling among the herbage. There are not many birds; every animal is +entrapped and eaten. Gins are seen on both sides of the path every ten +or fifteen yards, for miles together. The time and labor required to dig +up moles and mice from their burrows would, if applied to cultivation, +afford food for any amount of fowls or swine, but the latter are seldom +met with. + +We passed on through forests abounding in climbing-plants, many of which +are so extremely tough that a man is required to go in front with a +hatchet; and when the burdens of the carriers are caught, they are +obliged to cut the climbers with their teeth, for no amount of tugging +will make them break. The paths in all these forests are so zigzag that +a person may imagine he has traveled a distance of thirty miles, which, +when reckoned as the crow flies, may not be fifteen. + +We reached the River Moamba (lat. 9d 38' S., long. 20d 13' 34" E.) on +the 7th May. This is a stream of thirty yards wide, and, like the Quilo, +Loange, Chikapa, and Loajima, contains both alligators and hippopotami. +We crossed it by means of canoes. Here, as on the slopes down to the +Quilo and Chikapa, we had an opportunity of viewing the geological +structure of the country--a capping of ferruginous conglomerate, which +in many parts looks as if it had been melted, for the rounded nodules +resemble masses of slag, and they have a smooth scale on the surface; +but in all probability it is an aqueous deposit, for it contains +water-worn pebbles of all sorts, and generally small. Below this +mass lies a pale red hardened sandstone, and beneath that a trap-like +whinstone. Lowest of all lies a coarse-grained sandstone containing +a few pebbles, and, in connection with it, a white calcareous rock is +occasionally met with, and so are banks of loose round quartz pebbles. +The slopes are longer from the level country above the further we go +eastward, and every where we meet with circumscribed bogs on them, +surrounded by clumps of straight, lofty evergreen trees, which look +extremely graceful on a ground of yellowish grass. Several of these +bogs pour forth a solution of iron, which exhibits on its surface the +prismatic colors. The level plateaus between the rivers, both east and +west of the Moamba, across which we traveled, were less woody than the +river glens. The trees on them are scraggy and wide apart. There are +also large open grass-covered spaces, with scarcely even a bush. On +these rather dreary intervals between the rivers it was impossible not +to be painfully struck with the absence of all animal life. Not a bird +was to be seen, except occasionally a tomtit, some of the 'Sylviadae' +and 'Drymoica', also a black bird ('Dicrurus Ludwigii', Smith) common +throughout the country. We were gladdened by the voice of birds only +near the rivers, and there they are neither numerous nor varied. The +Senegal longclaw, however, maintains its place, and is the largest bird +seen. We saw a butcher-bird in a trap as we passed. There are remarkably +few small animals, they having been hunted almost to extermination, +and few insects except ants, which abound in considerable number and +variety. There are scarcely any common flies to be seen, nor are we ever +troubled by mosquitoes. + +The air is still, hot, and oppressive; the intensely bright sunlight +glances peacefully on the evergreen forest leaves, and all feel glad +when the path comes into the shade. The want of life in the scenery made +me long to tread again the banks of the Zambesi, and see the graceful +antelopes feeding beside the dark buffaloes and sleek elands. Here +hippopotami are known to exist only by their footprints on the banks. +Not one is ever seen to blow or put his head up at all; they have +learned to breathe in silence and keep out of sight. We never heard one +uttering the snorting sound so common on the Zambesi. + +We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Fombeji, before reaching +Cabango, a village situated on the banks of the Chihombo. The country +was becoming more densely peopled as we proceeded, but it bears no +population compared to what it might easily sustain. Provisions were to +be had in great abundance; a fowl and basket of meal weighing 20 lbs. +were sold for a yard and a half of very inferior cotton cloth, worth +not more than threepence. An idea of the cheapness of food may be formed +from the fact that Captain Neves purchased 380 lbs. of tobacco from the +Bangalas for about two pounds sterling. This, when carried into central +Londa, might purchase seven thousand five hundred fowls, or feed with +meal and fowls seven thousand persons for one day, giving each a fowl +and 5 lbs. of meal. When food is purchased here with either salt or +coarse calico, four persons can be well fed with animal and vegetable +food at the rate of one penny a day. The chief vegetable food is the +manioc and lotsa meal. These contain a very large proportion of starch, +and, when eaten alone for any length of time produce most distressing +heartburn. As we ourselves experienced in coming north, they also cause +a weakness of vision, which occurs in the case of animals fed on pure +gluten or amylaceous matter only. I now discovered that when these +starchy substances are eaten along with a proportion of ground-nuts, +which contain a considerable quantity of oil, no injurious effects +follow. + +While on the way to Cabango we saw fresh tracks of elands, the first +we had observed in this country. A poor little slave girl, being ill, +turned aside in the path, and, though we waited all the next day making +search for her, she was lost. She was tall and slender for her age, as +if of too quick growth, and probably, unable to bear the fatigue of the +march, lay down and slept in the forest, then, waking in the dark, went +farther and farther astray. The treatment of the slaves witnessed by +my men certainly did not raise slaveholders in their estimation. Their +usual exclamation was "Ga ba na pelu" (They have no heart); and they +added, with reference to the slaves, "Why do they let them?" as if they +thought that the slaves had the natural right to rid the world of such +heartless creatures, and ought to do it. The uneasiness of the trader +was continually showing itself, and, upon the whole, he had reason to +be on the alert both day and night. The carriers perpetually stole the +goods intrusted to their care, and he could not openly accuse them, lest +they should plunder him of all, and leave him quite in the lurch. He +could only hope to manage them after getting all the remaining goods +safely into a house in Cabango; he might then deduct something from +their pay for what they had purloined on the way. + +Cabango (lat. 9d 31' S., long. 20d 31' or 32' E.) is the dwelling-place +of Muanzanza, one of Matiamvo's subordinate chiefs. His village consists +of about two hundred huts and ten or twelve square houses, constructed +of poles with grass interwoven. The latter are occupied by half-caste +Portuguese from Ambaca, agents for the Cassange traders. The cold in the +mornings was now severe to the feelings, the thermometer ranging from 58 +Deg. to 60 Deg., though, when protected, sometimes standing as high +as 64 Deg. at six A.M. When the sun is well up, the thermometer in the +shade rises to 80 Deg., and in the evenings it is about 78 Deg. + +A person having died in this village, we could transact no business with +the chief until the funeral obsequies were finished. These occupy about +four days, during which there is a constant succession of dancing, +wailing, and feasting. Guns are fired by day, and drums beaten by night, +and all the relatives, dressed in fantastic caps, keep up the ceremonies +with spirit proportionate to the amount of beer and beef expended. When +there is a large expenditure, the remark is often made afterward, "What +a fine funeral that was!" A figure, consisting chiefly of feathers and +beads, is paraded on these occasions, and seems to be regarded as an +idol. + +Having met with an accident to one of my eyes by a blow from a branch in +passing through a forest, I remained some days here, endeavoring, though +with much pain, to draw a sketch of the country thus far, to be sent +back to Mr. Gabriel at Loanda. I was always anxious to transmit an +account of my discoveries on every possible occasion, lest, any thing +happening in the country to which I was going, they should be entirely +lost. I also fondly expected a packet of letters and papers which my +good angel at Loanda would be sure to send if they came to hand, but I +afterward found that, though he had offered a large sum to any one who +would return with an assurance of having delivered the last packet he +sent, no one followed me with it to Cabango. The unwearied attentions +of this good Englishman, from his first welcome to me when, a weary, +dejected, and worn-down stranger, I arrived at his residence, and his +whole subsequent conduct, will be held in lively remembrance by me to my +dying day. + +Several of the native traders here having visited the country of Luba, +lying far to the north of this, and there being some visitors also from +the town of Mai, which is situated far down the Kasai, I picked up some +information respecting those distant parts. In going to the town of Mai +the traders crossed only two large rivers, the Loajima and Chihombo. The +Kasai flows a little to the east of the town of Mai, and near it there +is a large waterfall. They describe the Kasai as being there of very +great size, and that it thence bends round to the west. On asking an +old man, who was about to return to his chief Mai, to imagine himself +standing at his home, and point to the confluence of the Quango and +Kasai, he immediately turned, and, pointing to the westward, said, "When +we travel five days (thirty-five or forty miles) in that direction, we +come to it." He stated also that the Kasai received another river, named +the Lubilash. There is but one opinion among the Balonda respecting the +Kasai and Quango. They invariably describe the Kasai as receiving +the Quango, and, beyond the confluence, assuming the name of Zaire or +Zerezere. And the Kasai, even previous to the junction, is much larger +than the Quango, from the numerous branches it receives. Besides those +we have already crossed, there is the Chihombo at Cabango; and forty-two +miles beyond this, eastward, runs the Kasai itself; fourteen miles +beyond that, the Kaunguesi; then, forty-two miles farther east, flows +the Lolua; besides numbers of little streams, all of which contribute to +swell the Kasai. + +About thirty-four miles east of the Lolua, or a hundred and thirty-two +miles E.N.E. of Cabango, stands the town of Matiamvo, the paramount +chief of all the Balonda. The town of Mai is pointed out as to the +N.N.W. of Cabango, and thirty-two days or two hundred and twenty-four +miles distant, or about lat. S. 5d 45'. The chief town of Luba, another +independent chief, is eight days farther in the same direction, or lat. +S. 4d 50'. Judging from the appearance of the people who had come for +the purposes of trade from Mai, those in the north are in quite as +uncivilized a condition as the Balonda. They are clad in a kind of cloth +made of the inner bark of a tree. Neither guns nor native traders are +admitted into the country, the chief of Luba entertaining a dread of +innovation. If a native trader goes thither, he must dress like the +common people in Angola, in a loose robe resembling a kilt. The chief +trades in shells and beads only. His people kill the elephants by means +of spears, poisoned arrows, and traps. All assert that elephants' tusks +from that country are heavier and of greater length than any others. + +It is evident, from all the information I could collect both here and +elsewhere, that the drainage of Londa falls to the north and then runs +westward. The countries of Luba and Mai are evidently lower than this, +and yet this is of no great altitude--probably not much more than 3500 +feet above the level of the sea. Having here received pretty certain +information on a point in which I felt much interest, namely, that the +Kasai is not navigable from the coast, owing to the large waterfall near +the town of Mai, and that no great kingdom exists in the region beyond, +between this and the equator, I would fain have visited Matiamvo. This +seemed a very desirable step, as it is good policy as well as right +to acknowledge the sovereign of a country; and I was assured, both by +Balonda and native traders, that a considerable branch of the Zambesi +rises in the country east of his town, and flows away to the south. The +whole of this branch, extending down even to where it turns westward to +Masiko, is probably placed too far eastward on the map. It was put down +when I believed Matiamvo and Cazembe to be farther east than I have +since seen reason to believe them. All, being derived from native +testimony, is offered to the reader with diffidence, as needing +verification by actual explorers. The people of that part, named Kanyika +and Kanyoka, living on its banks, are represented as both numerous and +friendly, but Matiamvo will on no account permit any white person to +visit them, as his principal supplies of ivory are drawn from them. +Thinking that we might descend this branch of the Zambesi to Masiko, and +thence to the Barotse, I felt a strong inclination to make the attempt. +The goods, however, we had brought with us to pay our way, had, by the +long detention from fever and weakness in both myself and men, dwindled +to a mere fragment; and, being but slightly acquainted with the Balonda +dialect, I felt that I could neither use persuasion nor presents to +effect my object. From all I could hear of Matiamvo, there was no chance +of my being allowed to proceed through his country to the southward. If +I had gone merely to visit him, all the goods would have been expended +by the time I returned to Cabango; and we had not found mendicity so +pleasant on our way to the north as to induce us to desire to return to +it. + +The country of Matiamvo is said to be well peopled, but they have little +or no trade. They receive calico, salt, gunpowder, coarse earthenware, +and beads, and give in return ivory and slaves. They possess no cattle, +Matiamvo alone having a single herd, which he keeps entirely for +the sake of the flesh. The present chief is said to be mild in his +government, and will depose an under-chief for unjust conduct. He +occasionally sends the distance of a hundred miles or more to behead an +offending officer. But, though I was informed by the Portuguese that he +possesses absolute power, his name had less influence over his subjects +with whom I came in contact than that of Sekeletu has over his people +living at a much greater distance from the capital. + +As we thought it best to strike away to the S.E. from Cabango to our +old friend Katema, I asked a guide from Muanzanza as soon as the funeral +proceedings were over. He agreed to furnish one, and also accepted a +smaller present from me than usual, when it was represented to him by +Pascoal and Faria that I was not a trader. He seemed to regard these +presents as his proper dues; and as a cargo of goods had come by Senhor +Pascoal, he entered the house for the purpose of receiving his share, +when Senhor Faria gravely presented him with the commonest earthenware +vessel, of which great numbers are brought for this trade. The chief +received it with expressions of abundant gratitude, as these vessels are +highly valued, because from their depth they can hold so much food or +beer. The association of ideas is sometimes so very ludicrous that it is +difficult to maintain one's gravity. + +Several of the children of the late Matiamvo came to beg from me, but +never to offer any food. Having spoken to one young man named Liula +(Heavens) about their stinginess, he soon brought bananas and manioc. +I liked his appearance and conversation, and believe that the Balonda +would not be difficult to teach, but their mode of life would be a +drawback. The Balonda in this quarter are much more agreeable-looking +than any of the inhabitants nearer the coast. The women allow their +teeth to remain in their beautifully white state, and would be comely +but for the custom of inserting pieces of reed into the cartilage of the +nose. They seem generally to be in good spirits, and spend their time in +everlasting talk, funeral ceremonies, and marriages. This flow of animal +spirits must be one reason why they are such an indestructible race. The +habitual influence on their minds of the agency of unseen spirits may +have a tendency in the same direction, by preserving the mental quietude +of a kind of fatalism. + +We were forced to prepay our guide and his father too, and he went but +one day, although he promised to go with us to Katema. He was not in the +least ashamed at breaking his engagements, and probably no disgrace will +be attached to the deed by Muanzanza. Among the Bakwains he would have +been punished. My men would have stripped him of the wages which he wore +on his person, but thought that, as we had always acted on the mildest +principles, they would let him move off with his unearned gains. + +They frequently lamented the want of knowledge in these people, saying, +in their own tongue, "Ah! they don't know that we are men as well as +they, and that we are only bearing with their insolence with patience +because we are men." Then would follow a hearty curse, showing that the +patience was nearly expended; but they seldom quarreled in the language +of the Balonda. The only one who ever lost his temper was the man who +struck a head man of one of the villages on the mouth, and he was the +most abject individual in our company. + +The reason why we needed a guide at all was to secure the convenience +of a path, which, though generally no better than a sheep-walk, is much +easier than going straight in one direction, through tangled forests and +tropical vegetation. We knew the general direction we ought to follow, +and also if any deviation occurred from our proper route; but, to avoid +impassable forests and untreadable bogs, and to get to the proper +fords of the rivers, we always tried to procure a guide, and he always +followed the common path from one village to another when that lay in +the direction we were going. + +After leaving Cabango on the 21st, we crossed several little streams +running into the Chihombo on our left, and in one of them I saw tree +ferns ('Cyathea dregei') for the first time in Africa. The trunk was +about four feet high and ten inches in diameter. We saw also grass trees +of two varieties, which, in damp localities, had attained a height of +forty feet. On crossing the Chihombo, which we did about twelve miles +above Cabango, we found it waist-deep and rapid. We were delighted to +see the evidences of buffalo and hippopotami on its banks. As soon as we +got away from the track of the slave-traders, the more kindly spirit of +the southern Balonda appeared, for an old man brought a large present of +food from one of the villages, and volunteered to go as guide himself. +The people, however, of the numerous villages which we passed always +made efforts to detain us, that they might have a little trade in the +way of furnishing our suppers. At one village, indeed, they would not +show us the path at all unless we remained at least a day with them. +Having refused, we took a path in the direction we ought to go, but it +led us into an inextricable thicket. Returning to the village again, we +tried another footpath in a similar direction, but this led us into an +equally impassable and trackless forest. We were thus forced to come +back and remain. In the following morning they put us in the proper +path, which in a few hours led us through a forest that would otherwise +have taken us days to penetrate. + +Beyond this forest we found the village of Nyakalonga, a sister of the +late Matiamvo, who treated us handsomely. She wished her people to guide +us to the next village, but this they declined unless we engaged in +trade. She then requested us to wait an hour or two till she could get +ready a present of meal, manioc roots, ground-nuts, and a fowl. It was +truly pleasant to meet with people possessing some civility, after the +hauteur we had experienced on the slave-path. She sent her son to the +next village without requiring payment. The stream which ran past her +village was quite impassable there, and for a distance of about a mile +on either side, the bog being soft and shaky, and, when the crust was +broken through, about six feet deep. + +On the 28th we reached the village of the chief Bango (lat. 12d 22' 53" +S., long. 20d 58' E.), who brought us a handsome present of meal, and +the meat of an entire pallah. We here slaughtered the last of the cows +presented to us by Mr. Schut, which I had kept milked until it gave only +a teaspoonful at a time. My men enjoyed a hearty laugh when they found +that I had given up all hope of more, for they had been talking among +themselves about my perseverance. We offered a leg of the cow to Bango, +but he informed us that neither he nor his people ever partook of beef, +as they looked upon cattle as human, and living at home like men. None +of his people purchased any of the meat, which was always eagerly done +every where else. There are several other tribes who refuse to keep +cattle, though not to eat them when offered by others, because, say +they, oxen bring enemies and war; but this is the first instance I have +met with in which they have been refused as food. The fact of killing +the pallahs for food shows that the objection does not extend to meat in +general. + +The little streams in this part of the country did not flow in deep +dells, nor were we troubled with the gigantic grasses which annoyed our +eyes on the slopes of the streams before we came to Cabango. The country +was quite flat, and the people cultivated manioc very extensively. There +is no large collection of the inhabitants in any one spot. The ambition +of each seems to be to have his own little village; and we see many +coming from distant parts with the flesh of buffaloes and antelopes as +the tribute claimed by Bango. We have now entered again the country of +the game, but they are so exceedingly shy that we have not yet seen a +single animal. The arrangement into many villages pleases the Africans +vastly, for every one who has a few huts under him feels himself in +some measure to be a chief. The country at this time is covered with +yellowish grass quite dry. Some of the bushes and trees are green; +others are shedding their leaves, the young buds pushing off the old +foliage. Trees, which in the south stand bare during the winter months, +have here but a short period of leaflessness. Occasionally, however, a +cold north wind comes up even as far as Cabango, and spreads a wintry +aspect on all the exposed vegetation. The tender shoots of the evergreen +trees on the south side become as if scorched; the leaves of manioc, +pumpkins, and other tender plants are killed; while the same kinds, in +spots sheltered by forests, continue green through the whole year. All +the interior of South Africa has a distinct winter of cold, varying in +intensity with the latitudes. In the central parts of the Cape Colony +the cold in the winter is often severe, and the ground is covered with +snow. At Kuruman snow seldom falls, but the frost is keen. There is +frost even as far as the Chobe, and a partial winter in the Barotse +valley, but beyond the Orange River we never have cold and damp +combined. Indeed, a shower of rain seldom or never falls during winter, +and hence the healthiness of the Bechuana climate. From the Barotse +valley northward it is questionable if it ever freezes; but, during the +prevalence of the south wind, the thermometer sinks as low as 42 Deg., +and conveys the impression of bitter cold. + +Nothing can exceed the beauty of the change from the wintry appearance +to that of spring at Kolobeng. Previous to the commencement of the +rains, an easterly wind blows strongly by day, but dies away at night. +The clouds collect in increasing masses, and relieve in some measure +the bright glare of the southern sun. The wind dries up every thing, +and when at its greatest strength is hot, and raises clouds of dust. +The general temperature during the day rises above 96 Deg.: then showers +begin to fall; and if the ground is but once well soaked with a good +day's rain, the change produced is marvelous. In a day or two a tinge +of green is apparent all over the landscape, and in five or six days the +fresh leaves sprouting forth, and the young grass shooting up, give +an appearance of spring which it requires weeks of a colder climate to +produce. The birds, which in the hot, dry, windy season had been silent, +now burst forth into merry twittering songs, and are busy building their +nests. Some of them, indeed, hatch several times a year. The lowering of +the temperature, by rains or other causes, has much the same effect as +the increasing mildness of our own spring. The earth teems with myriads +of young insects; in some parts of the country hundreds of centipedes, +myriapedes, and beetles emerge from their hiding-places, somewhat as +our snails at home do; and in the evenings the white ants swarm by +thousands. A stream of them is seen to rush out of a hole, and, after +flying one or two hundred yards, they descend; and if they light upon a +piece of soil proper for the commencement of a new colony, they bend +up their tails, unhook their wings, and, leaving them on the surface, +quickly begin their mining operations. If an attempt is made to separate +the wings from the body by drawing them away backward, they seem as if +hooked into the body, and tear away large portions of the insect; but if +turned forward, as the ant itself does, they snap off with the greatest +ease. Indeed, they seem formed only to serve the insect in its short +flight to a new habitation, and then to be thrown aside. Nothing can +exceed the eagerness with which, at the proper time, they rush out from +their birth-place. Occasionally this occurs in a house, and then, in +order to prevent every corner from being filled with them, I have seen a +fire placed over the orifice; but they hesitate not even to pass through +the fire. While swarming they appear like snow-flakes floating about +in the air, and dogs, cats, hawks, and almost every bird, may be seen +busily devouring them. The natives, too, profit by the occasion, and +actively collect them for food, they being about half an inch long, as +thick as a crow-quill, and very fat. When roasted they are said to be +good, and somewhat resemble grains of boiled rice. An idea may be +formed of this dish by what once occurred on the banks of the Zouga. +The Bayeiye chief Palani visiting us while eating, I gave him a piece +of bread and preserved apricots; and as he seemed to relish it much, I +asked him if he had any food equal to that in his country. "Ah!" said +he, "did you ever taste white ants?" As I never had, he replied, "Well, +if you had, you never could have desired to eat any thing better." The +general way of catching them is to dig into the ant-hill, and wait +till the builders come forth to repair the damage, then brush them off +quickly into a vessel, as the ant-eater does into his mouth. + +The fall of the rain makes all the cattle look fresh and clean, and both +men and women proceed cheerily to their already hoed gardens, and sow +the seed. The large animals in the country leave the spots where they +had been compelled to congregate for the sake of water, and become much +wilder. Occasionally a herd of buffaloes or antelopes smell rain from +afar, and set off in a straight line toward the place. Sometimes they +make mistakes, and are obliged to return to the water they had left. + +Very large tracts of country are denuded of old grass during the winter +by means of fire, in order to attract the game to that which there +springs up unmixed with the older crop. This new herbage has a +renovating tendency, for as long as they feed on the dry grass of the +former season they continue in good condition; but no sooner are they +able to indulge their appetites on the fresh herbage, than even the +marrow in their bones becomes dissolved, and a red, soft, uneatable mass +is left behind. After this commences the work of regaining their former +plumpness. + +MAY 30TH. We left Bango, and proceeded to the River Loembwe, which flows +to the N.N.E., and abounds in hippopotami. It is about sixty yards wide, +and four feet deep, but usually contains much less water than this, for +there are fishing-weirs placed right across it. Like all the African +rivers in this quarter, it has morasses on each bank, yet the valley +in which it winds, when seen from the high lands above, is extremely +beautiful. This valley is about the fourth of a mile wide, and it was +easy to fancy the similarity of many spots on it to the goodly manors in +our own country, and feel assured that there was still ample territory +left for an indefinite increase of the world's population. The villages +are widely apart and difficult of access, from the paths being so +covered with tall grass that even an ox can scarcely follow the track. +The grass cuts the feet of the men; yet we met a woman with a little +child, and a girl, wending their way home with loads of manioc. The +sight of a white man always infuses a tremor into their dark bosoms, and +in every case of the kind they appeared immensely relieved when I had +fairly passed without having sprung upon them. In the villages the dogs +run away with their tails between their legs, as if they had seen a +lion. The women peer from behind the walls till he comes near them, and +then hastily dash into the house. When a little child, unconscious of +danger, meets you in the street, he sets up a scream at the apparition, +and conveys the impression that he is not far from going into fits. +Among the Bechuanas I have been obliged to reprove the women for making +a hobgoblin of the white man, and telling their children that they would +send for him to bite them. + +Having passed the Loembwe, we were in a more open country, with every +few hours a small valley, through which ran a little rill in the middle +of a bog. These were always difficult to pass, and being numerous, kept +the lower part of the person constantly wet. At different points in +our course we came upon votive offerings to the Barimo. These usually +consisted of food; and every deserted village still contained the idols +and little sheds with pots of medicine in them. One afternoon we +passed a small frame house with the head of an ox in it as an object +of worship. The dreary uniformity of gloomy forests and open flats must +have a depressing influence on the minds of the people. Some villages +appear more superstitious than others, if we may judge from the greater +number of idols they contain. + +Only on one occasion did we witness a specimen of quarreling. An old +woman, standing by our camp, continued to belabor a good-looking young +man for hours with her tongue. Irritated at last, he uttered some words +of impatience, when another man sprang at him, exclaiming, "How dare +you curse my 'Mama'?" They caught each other, and a sort of pushing, +dragging wrestling-match ensued. The old woman who had been the cause of +the affray wished us to interfere, and the combatants themselves hoped +as much; but we, preferring to remain neutral, allowed them to fight +it out. It ended by one falling under the other, both, from their +scuffling, being in a state of nudity. They picked up their clothing and +ran off in different directions, each threatening to bring his gun and +settle the dispute in mortal combat. Only one, however, returned, and +the old woman continued her scolding till my men, fairly tired of +her tongue, ordered her to be gone. This trifling incident was one of +interest to me, for, during the whole period of my residence in the +Bechuana country, I never saw unarmed men strike each other. Their +disputes are usually conducted with great volubility and noisy swearing, +but they generally terminate by both parties bursting into a laugh. + +At every village attempts were made to induce us to remain a night. +Sometimes large pots of beer were offered to us as a temptation. +Occasionally the head man would peremptorily order us to halt under a +tree which he pointed out. At other times young men volunteered to guide +us to the impassable part of the next bog, in the hope of bringing us +to a stand, for all are excessively eager to trade; but food was so very +cheap that we sometimes preferred paying them to keep it, and let us +part in good humor. A good-sized fowl could be had for a single charge +of gunpowder. Each native who owns a gun carries about with him a +measure capable of holding but one charge, in which he receives his +powder. Throughout this region the women are almost entirely naked, +their gowns being a patch of cloth frightfully narrow, with no flounces; +and nothing could exceed the eagerness with which they offered to +purchase strips of calico of an inferior description. They were +delighted with the large pieces we gave, though only about two feet +long, for a fowl and a basket of upward of 20 lbs. of meal. As we had +now only a small remnant of our stock, we were obliged to withstand +their importunity, and then many of their women, with true maternal +feelings, held up their little naked babies, entreating us to sell only +a little rag for them. The fire, they say, is their only clothing by +night, and the little ones derive heat by sticking closely to their +parents. Instead of a skin or cloth to carry their babies in, the women +plait a belt about four inches broad, of the inner bark of a tree, and +this, hung from the one shoulder to the opposite side, like a soldier's +belt, enables them to support the child by placing it on their side in +a sitting position. Their land is very fertile, and they can raise +ground-nuts and manioc in abundance. Here I observed no cotton, nor any +domestic animals except fowls and little dogs. The chief possessed a few +goats, and I never could get any satisfactory reason why the people also +did not rear them. + +On the evening of the 2d of June we reached the village of Kawawa, +rather an important personage in these parts. This village consists of +forty or fifty huts, and is surrounded by forest. Drums were beating +over the body of a man who had died the preceding day, and some women +were making a clamorous wail at the door of his hut, and addressing the +deceased as if alive. The drums continued beating the whole night, with +as much regularity as a steam-engine thumps on board ship. We observed +that a person dressed fantastically with a great number of feathers left +the people at the dance and wailing, and went away into the deep forest +in the morning, to return again to the obsequies in the evening; he is +intended to represent one of the Barimo. + +In the morning we had agreeable intercourse with Kawawa; he visited us, +and we sat and talked nearly the whole day with him and his people. When +we visited him in return, we found him in his large court-house, which, +though of a beehive shape, was remarkably well built. As I had shown him +a number of curiosities, he now produced a jug, of English ware, shaped +like an old man holding a can of beer in his hand, as the greatest +curiosity he had to exhibit. + +We had now an opportunity of hearing a case brought before him for +judgment. A poor man and his wife were accused of having bewitched the +man whose wake was now held in the village. Before Kawawa even heard the +defense, he said, "You have killed one of my children; bring all yours +before me, that I may choose which of them shall be mine instead." The +wife eloquently defended herself, but this availed little, for these +accusations are the means resorted to by some chiefs to secure subjects +for the slave-market. He probably thought that I had come to purchase +slaves, though I had already given a pretty full explanation of my +pursuits both to himself and his people. We exhibited the pictures of +the magic lantern in the evening, and all were delighted except Kawawa +himself. He showed symptoms of dread, and several times started up as +if to run away, but was prevented by the crowd behind. Some of the more +intelligent understood the explanations well, and expatiated eloquently +on them to the more obtuse. Nothing could exceed the civilities which +had passed between us during this day; but Kawawa had heard that the +Chiboque had forced us to pay an ox, and now thought he might do the +same. When, therefore, I sent next morning to let him know that we were +ready to start, he replied in his figurative way, "If an ox came in the +way of a man, ought he not to eat it? I had given one to the Chiboque, +and must give him the same, together with a gun, gunpowder, and a black +robe, like that he had seen spread out to dry the day before; that, if +I refused an ox, I must give one of my men, and a book by which he might +see the state of Matiamvo's heart toward him, and which would forewarn +him, should Matiamvo ever resolve to cut off his head." Kawawa came +in the coolest manner possible to our encampment after sending this +message, and told me he had seen all our goods, and must have all he +asked, as he had command of the Kasai in our front, and would prevent +us from passing it unless we paid this tribute. I replied that the goods +were my property and not his; that I would never have it said that a +white man had paid tribute to a black, and that I should cross the Kasai +in spite of him. He ordered his people to arm themselves, and when some +of my men saw them rushing for their bows, arrows, and spears, they +became somewhat panic-stricken. I ordered them to move away, and not to +fire unless Kawawa's people struck the first blow. I took the lead, and +expected them all to follow, as they usually had done, but many of my +men remained behind. When I knew this, I jumped off the ox, and made +a rush to them with the revolver in my hand. Kawawa ran away among his +people, and they turned their backs too. I shouted to my men to take up +their luggage and march; some did so with alacrity, feeling that they +had disobeyed orders by remaining; but one of them refused, and was +preparing to fire at Kawawa, until I gave him a punch on the head +with the pistol, and made him go too. I felt here, as elsewhere, that +subordination must be maintained at all risks. We all moved into the +forest, the people of Kawawa standing about a hundred yards off, gazing, +but not firing a shot or an arrow. It is extremely unpleasant to part +with these chieftains thus, after spending a day or two in the most +amicable intercourse, and in a part where the people are generally +civil. This Kawawa, however, is not a good specimen of the Balonda +chiefs, and is rather notorious in the neighborhood for his folly. We +were told that he has good reason to believe that Matiamvo will some day +cut off his head for his disregard of the rights of strangers. + +Kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by the unceremonious +way in which we had left him; for, when we had reached the ford of the +Kasai, about ten miles distant, we found that he had sent four of his +men, with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage. We were here duly +informed that we must deliver up all the articles mentioned, and one of +our men besides. This demand for one of our number always nettled every +heart. The canoes were taken away before our eyes, and we were supposed +to be quite helpless without them, at a river a good hundred yards +broad, and very deep. Pitsane stood on the bank, gazing with apparent +indifference on the stream, and made an accurate observation of where +the canoes were hidden among the reeds. The ferrymen casually asked one +of my Batoka if they had rivers in his country, and he answered with +truth, "No, we have none." Kawawa's people then felt sure we could not +cross. I thought of swimming when they were gone; but after it was dark, +by the unasked loan of one of the hidden canoes, we soon were snug in +our bivouac on the southern bank of the Kasai. I left some beads as +payment for some meal which had been presented by the ferrymen; and, the +canoe having been left on their own side of the river, Pitsane and his +companions laughed uproariously at the disgust our enemies would feel, +and their perplexity as to who had been our paddler across. They were +quite sure that Kawawa would imagine that we had been ferried over by +his own people, and would be divining to find out who had done the deed. +When ready to depart in the morning, Kawawa's people appeared on the +opposite heights, and could scarcely believe their eyes when they saw +us prepared to start away to the south. At last one of them called out, +"Ah! ye are bad," to which Pitsane and his companions retorted, "Ah! ye +are good, and we thank you for the loan of your canoe." We were careful +to explain the whole of the circumstances to Katema and the other +chiefs, and they all agreed that we were perfectly justifiable under +the circumstances, and that Matiamvo would approve our conduct. When +any thing that might bear an unfavorable construction happens among +themselves, they send explanations to each other. The mere fact of +doing so prevents them from losing their character, for there is public +opinion even among them. + + + + +Chapter 24. + +Level Plains--Vultures and other Birds--Diversity of Color in Flowers of +the same Species--The Sundew--Twenty-seventh Attack of Fever--A River +which flows in opposite Directions--Lake Dilolo the Watershed between +the Atlantic and Indian Oceans--Position of Rocks--Sir Roderick +Murchison's Explanation--Characteristics of the Rainy Season in +connection with the Floods of the Zambesi and the Nile--Probable Reason +of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North of the Equator--Arab +Reports of Region east of Londa--Probable Watershed of the Zambesi and +the Nile--Lake Dilolo--Reach Katema's Town: his renewed Hospitality; +desire to appear like a White Man; ludicrous Departure--Jackdaws-- +Ford southern Branch of Lake Dilolo--Small Fish--Project for a Makololo +Village near the Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye--Hearty +Welcome from Shinte--Kolimbota's Wound--Plant-seeds and Fruit-trees +brought from Angola--Masiko and Limboa's Quarrel--Nyamoana now a +Widow--Purchase Canoes and descend the Leeba--Herds of wild Animals on +its Banks--Unsuccessful Buffalo-hunt--Frogs--Sinbad and the Tsetse-- +Dispatch a Message to Manenko--Arrival of her Husband Sambanza--The +Ceremony called Kasendi--Unexpected Fee for performing a +surgical Operation--Social Condition of the Tribes--Desertion of +Mboenga--Stratagem of Mambowe Hunters--Water-turtles--Charged by a +Buffalo--Reception from the People of Libonta--Explain the Causes of +our long Delay--Pitsane's Speech--Thanksgiving Services--Appearance of +my "Braves"--Wonderful Kindness of the People. + + + +After leaving the Kasai, we entered upon the extensive level plains +which we had formerly found in a flooded condition. The water on them +was not yet dried up, as it still remained in certain hollow spots. +Vultures were seen floating in the air, showing that carrion was to be +found; and, indeed, we saw several of the large game, but so exceedingly +wild as to be unapproachable. Numbers of caterpillars mounted the stalks +of grass, and many dragonflies and butterflies appeared, though this was +winter. The caprimulgus or goat-sucker, swifts, and different kinds of +swallows, with a fiery-red bee-eater in flocks, showed that the lowest +temperature here does not destroy the insects on which they feed. +Jet-black larks, with yellow shoulders, enliven the mornings with their +songs, but they do not continue so long on the wing as ours, nor soar +so high. We saw many of the pretty white ardea, and other water-birds, +flying over the spots not yet dried up; and occasionally wild ducks, but +these only in numbers sufficient to remind us that we were approaching +the Zambesi, where every water-fowl has a home. + +While passing across these interminable-looking plains, the eye rests +with pleasure on a small flower, which exists in such numbers as to give +its own hue to the ground. One broad band of yellow stretches across our +path. On looking at the flowers which formed this golden carpet, we +saw every variety of that color, from the palest lemon to the richest +orange. Crossing a hundred yards of this, we came upon another broad +band of the same flower, but blue, and this color is varied from the +lightest tint to dark blue, and even purple. I had before observed +the same flower possessing different colors in different parts of +the country, and once a great number of liver-colored flowers, which +elsewhere were yellow. Even the color of the birds changed with the +district we passed through; but never before did I see such a marked +change as from yellow to blue, repeated again and again on the same +plain. Another beautiful plant attracted my attention so strongly on +these plains that I dismounted to examine it. To my great delight I +found it to be an old home acquaintance, a species of Drosera, closely +resembling our own sundew ('Drosera Anglia'). The flower-stalk never +attains a height of more than two or three inches, and the leaves are +covered with reddish hairs, each of which has a drop of clammy fluid +at its tip, making the whole appear as if spangled over with small +diamonds. I noticed it first in the morning, and imagined the appearance +was caused by the sun shining on drops of dew; but, as it continued +to maintain its brilliancy during the heat of the day, I proceeded to +investigate the cause of its beauty, and found that the points of the +hairs exuded pure liquid, in, apparently, capsules of clear, glutinous +matter. They were thus like dewdrops preserved from evaporation. The +clammy fluid is intended to entrap insects, which, dying on the leaf, +probably yield nutriment to the plant. + +During our second day on this extensive plain I suffered from my +twenty-seventh attack of fever, at a part where no surface-water was to +be found. We never thought it necessary to carry water with us in this +region; and now, when I was quite unable to move on, my men soon found +water to allay my burning thirst by digging with sticks a few feet +beneath the surface. We had thus an opportunity of observing the state +of these remarkable plains at different seasons of the year. Next day +we pursued our way, and on the 8th of June we forded the Lotembwa to the +N.W. of Dilolo, and regained our former path. + +The Lotembwa here is about a mile wide, about three feet deep, and full +of the lotus, papyrus, arum, mat-rushes, and other aquatic plants. I did +not observe the course in which the water flowed while crossing; but, +having noticed before that the Lotembwa on the other side of the Lake +Dilolo flowed in a southerly direction, I supposed that this was simply +a prolongation of the same river beyond Dilolo, and that it rose in this +large marsh, which we had not seen in our progress to the N.W. But when +we came to the Southern Lotembwa, we were informed by Shakatwala that +the river we had crossed flowed in an opposite direction--not into +Dilolo, but into the Kasai. This phenomenon of a river running in +opposite directions struck even his mind as strange; and, though I did +not observe the current, simply from taking it for granted that it was +toward the lake, I have no doubt that his assertion, corroborated as it +was by others, is correct, and that the Dilolo is actually the watershed +between the river systems that flow to the east and west. + +I would have returned in order to examine more carefully this most +interesting point, but, having had my lower extremities chilled in +crossing the Northern Lotembwa, I was seized with vomiting of blood, +and, besides, saw no reason to doubt the native testimony. The distance +between Dilolo and the valleys leading to that of the Kasai is not more +than fifteen miles, and the plains between are perfectly level; and, had +I returned, I should only have found that this little lake Dilolo, by +giving a portion to the Kasai and another to the Zambesi, distributes +its waters to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. I state the fact exactly +as it opened to my own mind, for it was only now that I apprehended the +true form of the river systems and continent. I had seen the various +rivers of this country on the western side flowing from the subtending +ridges into the centre, and had received information from natives and +Arabs that most of the rivers on the eastern side of the same great +region took a somewhat similar course from an elevated ridge there, and +that all united in two main drains, the one flowing to the north and the +other to the south, and that the northern drain found its way out by the +Congo to the west, and the southern by the Zambesi to the east. I was +thus on the watershed, or highest point of these two great systems, but +still not more than 4000 feet above the level of the sea, and 1000 feet +lower than the top of the western ridge we had already crossed; yet, +instead of lofty snow-clad mountains appearing to verify the conjectures +of the speculative, we had extensive plains, over which one may travel a +month without seeing any thing higher than an ant-hill or a tree. I was +not then aware that any one else had discovered the elevated trough form +of the centre of Africa. + +I had observed that the old schistose rocks on the sides dipped in +toward the centre of the country, and their strike nearly corresponded +with the major axis of the continent; and also that where the later +erupted trap rocks had been spread out in tabular masses over the +central plateau, they had borne angular fragments of the older rocks in +their substance; but the partial generalization which the observations +led to was, that great volcanic action had taken place in ancient times, +somewhat in the same way it does now, at distances of not more than +three hundred miles from the sea, and that this igneous action, +extending along both sides of the continent, had tilted up the lateral +rocks in the manner they are now seen to lie. The greater energy and +more extended range of igneous action in those very remote periods when +Africa was formed, embracing all the flanks, imparted to it its present +very simple literal outline. This was the length to which I had come. + +The trap rocks, which now constitute the "filling up" of the great +valley, were always a puzzle to me till favored with Sir Roderick +Murchison's explanation of the original form of the continent, for then +I could see clearly why these trap rocks, which still lie in a perfectly +horizontal position on extensive areas, held in their substance angular +fragments, containing algae of the old schists, which form the bottom +of the original lacustrine basin: the traps, in bursting through, had +broken them off and preserved them. There are, besides, ranges of hills +in the central parts, composed of clay and sandstone schists, with +the ripple mark distinct, in which no fossils appear; but as they are +usually tilted away from the masses of horizontal trap, it is probable +that they too were a portion of the original bottom, and fossils may yet +be found in them.* + + * After dwelling upon the geological structure of the Cape + Colony as developed by Mr. A. Bain, and the existence in very + remote periods of lacustrine conditions in the central part of + South Africa, as proved by fresh-water and terrestrial + fossils, Sir Roderick Murchison thus writes: + + "Such as South Africa is now, such have been her main features + during countless past ages anterior to the creation of the + human race; for the old rocks which form her outer fringe + unquestionably circled round an interior marshy or lacustrine + country, in which the Dicynodon flourished, at a time when not + a single animal was similar to any living thing which now + inhabits the surface of our globe. The present central and + meridian zone of waters, whether lakes or marshes, extending + from Lake Tchad to Lake 'Ngami, with hippopotami on their + banks, are therefore but the great modern residual + geographical phenomena of those of a mesozoic age. The + differences, however, between the geological past of Africa + and her present state are enormous. Since that primeval time, + the lands have been much elevated above the sea-level-- + eruptive rocks piercing in parts through them; deep rents and + defiles have been suddenly formed in the subtending ridges + through which some rivers escape outward. + + "Travelers will eventually ascertain whether the basin-shaped + structure, which is here announced as having been the great + feature of the most ancient, as it is of the actual geography + of South Africa (i.e., from primeval times to the present + day), does, or does not, extend into Northern Africa. Looking + at that much broader portion of the continent, we have some + reason to surmise that the higher mountains also form, in a + general sense, its flanks only."--President's Address, Royal + Geographical Society, 1852, p. cxxiii. + +The characteristics of the rainy season in this wonderfully humid region +may account in some measure for the periodical floods of the Zambesi, +and perhaps the Nile. The rains seem to follow the course of the sun, +for they fall in October and November, when the sun passes over this +zone on his way south. On reaching the tropic of Capricorn in December, +it is dry; and December and January are the months in which injurious +droughts are most dreaded near that tropic (from Kolobeng to Linyanti). +As he returns again to the north in February, March, and April, we +have the great rains of the year; and the plains, which in October and +November were well moistened, and imbibed rain like sponges, now +become supersaturated, and pour forth those floods of clear water which +inundate the banks of the Zambesi. Somewhat the same phenomenon probably +causes the periodical inundations of the Nile. The two rivers rise +in the same region; but there is a difference in the period of flood, +possibly from their being on opposite sides of the equator. The waters +of the Nile are said to become turbid in June; and the flood attains +its greatest height in August, or the period when we may suppose the +supersaturation to occur. The subject is worthy the investigation of +those who may examine the region between the equator and 10 Deg. S.; +for the Nile does not show much increase when the sun is at its farthest +point north, or tropic of Cancer, but at the time of its returning to +the equator, exactly as in the other case when he is on Capricorn, and +the Zambesi is affected.* + + * The above is from my own observation, together with + information derived from the Portuguese in the interior of + Angola; and I may add that the result of many years' + observation by Messrs. Gabriel and Brand at Loanda, on the + west coast, is in accordance therewith. It rains there between + the 1st and 30th of November, but January and December are + usually both warm and dry. The heavier rains commence about + the 1st of February, and last until the 15th of May. Then no + rain falls between the 20th of May and the 1st of November. + The rain averages from 12 to 15 inches per annum. In 1852 it + was 12.034 inches; in 1853, 15.473 inches. Although I had no + means of measuring the amount of rain which fell in Londa, I + feel certain that the annual quantity exceeds very much that + which falls on the coast, because for a long time we noticed + that every dawn was marked by a deluging shower, which began + without warning-drops or thunder. I observed that the rain + ceased suddenly on the 28th of April, and the lesser rains + commenced about a fortnight before the beginning of November. + +From information derived from Arabs of Zanzibar, whom I met at Naliele +in the middle of the country, the region to the east of the parts of +Londa over which we have traveled resembles them in its conformation. +They report swampy steppes, some of which have no trees, where the +inhabitants use grass, and stalks of native corn, for fuel. A large +shallow lake is also pointed out in that direction, named Tanganyenka, +which requires three days for crossing in canoes. It is connected with +another named Kalagwe (Garague?), farther north, and may be the Nyanja +of the Maravim. From this lake is derived, by numerous small streams, +the River Loapula, the eastern branch of the Zambesi, which, coming from +the N.E., flows past the town of Cazembe. + +The southern end of this lake is ten days northeast of the town of +Cazembe; and as that is probably more than five days from Shinte, we +can not have been nearer to it than 150 miles. Probably this lake is +the watershed between the Zambesi and the Nile, as Lake Dilolo is that +between the Leeba and Kasai. But, however this may be, the phenomena of +the rainy season show that it is not necessary to assume the existence +of high snowy mountains until we get reliable information. This, it is +to be hoped, will be one of the results of the researches of Captain +Burton in his present journey. + +The original valley formation of the continent determined the northern +and southern course of the Zambesi in the centre, and also of the +ancient river which once flowed from the Linyanti basin to the Orange +River. It also gave direction to the southern and northern flow of the +Kasai and the Nile. We find that between the latitudes, say 6 Deg. and +12 Deg. S., from which, in all probability, the head waters of those +rivers diverge, there is a sort of elevated partition in the great +longitudinal valley. Presuming on the correctness of the native +information, which places the humid region to which the Nile and Zambesi +probably owe their origin within the latitudes indicated, why does +so much more rain fall there than in the same latitudes north of the +equator? Why does Darfur not give rise to great rivers, like Londa and +the country east of it? The prevailing winds in the ocean opposite the +territory pointed out are said to be from the N.E. and S.E. during a +great part of the year; they extend their currents on one side at least +of the equator quite beyond the middle of the continent, and even until +in Angola they meet the sea-breeze from the Atlantic. If the reader +remembers the explanation given at page 109,* that the comparative want +of rain on the Kalahari Desert is caused by the mass of air losing its +humidity as it passes up and glides over the subtending ridge, and will +turn to the map, he may perceive that the same cause is in operation +in an intense degree by the mountains of Abyssinia to render the region +about Darfur still more arid, and that the flanking ranges mentioned lie +much nearer the equator than those which rob the Kalahari of humidity. +The Nile, even while running through a part of that region, receives +remarkably few branches. Observing also that there is no known abrupt +lateral mountain-range between 6 Deg. and 12 Deg. S., but that there is +an elevated partition there, and that the southing and northing of the +southeasters and northeasters probably cause a confluence of the two +great atmospheric currents, he will perceive an accumulation of humidity +on the flanks and crown of the partition, instead of, as elsewhere, +opposite the Kalahari and Darfur, a deposition of the atmospheric +moisture on the eastern slopes of the subtending ridges. This +explanation is offered with all deference to those who have made +meteorology their special study, and as a hint to travelers who may have +opportunity to examine the subject more fully. I often observed, while +on a portion of the partition, that the air by night was generally quite +still, but as soon as the sun's rays began to shoot across the upper +strata of the atmosphere in the early morning, a copious discharge came +suddenly down from the accumulated clouds. It always reminded me of the +experiment of putting a rod into a saturated solution of a certain salt, +causing instant crystallization. This, too, was the period when I often +observed the greatest amount of cold. + + * Since the explanation in page 109 [Chapter 5 Paragraph 5] + was printed, I have been pleased to see the same explanation + given by the popular astronomer and natural philosopher, M. + Babinet, in reference to the climate of France. It is quoted + from a letter of a correspondent of the 'Times' in Paris: + + "In the normal meteorological state of France and Europe, the + west wind, which is the counter-current of the trade-winds + that constantly blow from the east under the tropics--the west + wind, I say, after having touched France and Europe by the + western shores, re-descends by Marseilles and the + Mediterranean, Constantinople and the Archipelago, Astrakan + and the Caspian Sea, in order to merge again into the great + circuit of the general winds, and be thus carried again into + the equatorial current. Whenever these masses of air, + impregnated with humidity during their passage over the ocean, + meet with an obstacle, such as a chain of mountains, for + example, they slide up the acclivity, and, when they reach the + crest, find themselves relieved from a portion of the column + of air which pressed upon them. Thus, dilating by reason of + their elasticity, they cause a considerable degree of cold, + and a precipitation of humidity in the form of fogs, clouds, + rain, or snow. A similar effect occurs whatever be the + obstacle they find in their way. Now this is what had + gradually taken place before 1856. By some cause or other + connected with the currents of the atmosphere, the warm + current from the west had annually ascended northward, so + that, instead of passing through France, it came from the + Baltic and the north of Germany, thus momentarily disturbing + the ordinary law of the temperatures of Europe. But in 1856 a + sudden change occurred. The western current again passed, as + before, through the centre of France. It met with an obstacle + in the air which had not yet found its usual outlet toward the + west and south. Hence a stoppage, a rising, a consequent + dilation and fall of temperature, extraordinary rains and + inundations. But, now that the natural state of things is + restored, nothing appears to prognosticate the return of + similar disasters. Were the western current found annually to + move further north, we might again experience meteorological + effects similar to those of 1856. Hence the regular seasons + may be considered re-established in France for several years + to come. The important meteorological communications which the + Imperial Observatory is daily establishing with the other + countries of Europe, and the introduction of apparatus for + measuring the velocity of the aerial currents and prevailing + winds, will soon afford prognostics sufficiently certain to + enable an enlightened government to provide in time against + future evils." + +After crossing the Northern Lotembwa we met a party of the people of +Kangenke, who had treated us kindly on our way to the north, and sent +him a robe of striped calico, with an explanation of the reason for not +returning through his village. We then went on to the Lake Dilolo. It +is a fine sheet of water, six or eight miles long, and one or two broad, +and somewhat of a triangular shape. A branch proceeds from one of the +angles, and flows into the Southern Lotembwa. Though laboring under +fever, the sight of the blue waters, and the waves lashing the shore, +had a most soothing influence on the mind, after so much of lifeless, +flat, and gloomy forest. The heart yearned for the vivid impressions +which are always created by the sight of the broad expanse of the grand +old ocean. That has life in it; but the flat uniformities over which we +had roamed made me feel as if buried alive. We found Moene Dilolo (Lord +of the Lake) a fat, jolly fellow, who lamented that when they had no +strangers they had plenty of beer, and always none when they came. He +gave us a handsome present of meal and putrid buffalo's flesh. Meat can +not be too far gone for them, as it is used only in small quantities, +as a sauce to their tasteless manioc. They were at this time hunting +antelopes, in order to send the skins as a tribute to Matiamvo. +Great quantities of fish are caught in the lake; and numbers of young +water-fowl are now found in the nests among the reeds. + +Our progress had always been slow, and I found that our rate of +traveling could only be five hours a day for five successive days. On +the sixth, both men and oxen showed symptoms of knocking up. We never +exceeded two and a half or three miles an hour in a straight line, +though all were anxious to get home. The difference in the rate of +traveling between ourselves and the slave-traders was our having a +rather quicker step, a longer day's journey, and twenty traveling days +a month instead of their ten. When one of my men became ill, but still +could walk, others parted his luggage among them; yet we had often to +stop one day a week, besides Sundays, simply for the sake of rest. The +latitude of Lake Dilolo is 11d 32' 1" S., long. 22d 27' E. + +JUNE 14TH. We reached the collection of straggling villages over +which Katema rules, and were thankful to see old familiar faces again. +Shakatwala performed the part of a chief by bringing forth abundant +supplies of food in his master's name. He informed us that Katema, too, +was out hunting skins for Matiamvo. + +In different parts of this country, we remarked that when old friends +were inquired for, the reply was, "Ba hola" (They are getting better); +or if the people of a village were inquired for, the answer was, "They +are recovering," as if sickness was quite a common thing. Indeed, many +with whom we had made acquaintance in going north we now found were +in their graves. On the 15th Katema came home from his hunting, having +heard of our arrival. He desired me to rest myself and eat abundantly, +for, being a great man, I must feel tired; and he took good care to give +the means of doing so. All the people in these parts are exceedingly +kind and liberal with their food, and Katema was not behindhand. When +he visited our encampment, I presented him with a cloak of red baize, +ornamented with gold tinsel, which cost thirty shillings, according to +the promise I had made in going to Londa; also a cotton robe, both large +and small beads, an iron spoon, and a tin pannikin containing a quarter +of a pound of powder. He seemed greatly pleased with the liberality +shown, and assured me that the way was mine, and that no one should +molest me in it if he could help it. We were informed by Shakatwala that +the chief never used any part of a present before making an offer of it +to his mother, or the departed spirit to whom he prayed. Katema asked if +I could not make a dress for him like the one I wore, so that he +might appear as a white man when any stranger visited him. One of the +councilors, imagining that he ought to second this by begging, Katema +checked him by saying, "Whatever strangers give, be it little or much, +I always receive it with thankfulness, and never trouble them for more." +On departing, he mounted on the shoulders of his spokesman, as the most +dignified mode of retiring. The spokesman being a slender man, and the +chief six feet high, and stout in proportion, there would have been a +break-down had he not been accustomed to it. We were very much pleased +with Katema; and next day he presented us with a cow, that we might +enjoy the abundant supplies of meal he had given with good animal food. +He then departed for the hunting-ground, after assuring me that the +town and every thing in it were mine, and that his factotum, Shakatwala, +would remain and attend to every want, and also conduct us to the Leeba. + +On attempting to slaughter the cow Katema had given, we found the herd +as wild as buffaloes; and one of my men having only wounded it, they +fled many miles into the forest, and were with great difficulty brought +back. Even the herdsman was afraid to go near them. The majority of them +were white, and they were all beautiful animals. After hunting it for +two days it was dispatched at last by another ball. Here we saw a flock +of jackdaws, a rare sight in Londa, busy with the grubs in the valley, +which are eaten by the people too. + +Leaving Katema's town on the 19th, and proceeding four miles to the +eastward, we forded the southern branch of Lake Dilolo. We found it a +mile and a quarter broad; and, as it flows into the Lotembwa, the lake +would seem to be a drain of the surrounding flats, and to partake of the +character of a fountain. The ford was waist-deep, and very difficult, +from the masses of arum and rushes through which we waded. Going to the +eastward about three miles, we came to the Southern Lotembwa itself, +running in a valley two miles broad. It is here eighty or ninety +yards wide, and contains numerous islands covered with dense sylvan +vegetation. In the rainy season the valley is flooded, and as the +waters dry up great multitudes of fish are caught. This happens very +extensively over the country, and fishing-weirs are met with every +where. A species of small fish, about the size of the minnow, is caught +in bagfuls and dried in the sun. The taste is a pungent aromatic bitter, +and it was partaken of freely by my people, although they had never met +with it before. On many of the paths which had been flooded a nasty sort +of slime of decayed vegetable matter is left behind, and much sickness +prevails during the drying up of the water. We did not find our friend +Mozinkwa at his pleasant home on the Lokaloeje; his wife was dead, +and he had removed elsewhere. He followed us some distance, but our +reappearance seemed to stir up his sorrows. We found the pontoon at +the village in which we left it. It had been carefully preserved, but a +mouse had eaten a hole in it and rendered it useless. + +We traversed the extended plain on the north bank of the Leeba, and +crossed this river a little farther on at Kanyonke's village, which is +about twenty miles west of the Peri hills, our former ford. The first +stage beyond the Leeba was at the rivulet Loamba, by the village +of Chebende, nephew of Shinte; and next day we met Chebende himself +returning from the funeral of Samoana, his father. He was thin and +haggard-looking compared to what he had been before, the probable effect +of the orgies in which he had been engaged. Pitsane and Mohorisi, having +concocted the project of a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, +as an approach to the white man's market, spoke to Chebende, as an +influential man, on the subject, but he cautiously avoided expressing +an opinion. The idea which had sprung up in their own minds of an +establishment somewhere near the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye, +commended itself to my judgment at the time as a geographically suitable +point for civilization and commerce. The right bank of the Leeba there +is never flooded; and from that point there is communication by means +of canoes to the country of the Kanyika, and also to Cazembe and beyond, +with but one or two large waterfalls between. There is no obstruction +down to the Barotse valley; and there is probably canoe navigation down +the Kafue or Bashukulompo River, though it is reported to contain +many cataracts. It flows through a fertile country, well peopled with +Bamasasa, who cultivate the native produce largely. + +As this was the middle of winter, it may be mentioned that the +temperature of the water in the morning was 47 Deg., and that of the +air 50 Deg., which, being loaded with moisture, was very cold to the +feelings. Yet the sun was very hot by day, and the temperature in the +coolest shade from 88 Deg. to 90 Deg.; in the evenings from 76 Deg. to +78 Deg. + +Before reaching the town of Shinte we passed through many large villages +of the Balobale, who have fled from the chief Kangenke. The Mambari +from Bihe come constantly to him for trade; and, as he sells his people, +great numbers of them escape to Shinte and Katema, who refuse to give +them up. + +We reached our friend Shinte, and received a hearty welcome from this +friendly old man, and abundant provisions of the best he had. On hearing +the report of the journey given by my companions, and receiving a piece +of cotton cloth about two yards square, he said, "These Mambari cheat us +by bringing little pieces only; but the next time you pass I shall send +men with you to trade for me in Loanda." When I explained the use made +of the slaves he sold, and that he was just destroying his own tribe by +selling his people, and enlarging that of the Mambari for the sake +of these small pieces of cloth, it seemed to him quite a new idea. +He entered into a long detail of his troubles with Masiko, who had +prevented him from cultivating that friendship with the Makololo which +I had inculcated, and had even plundered the messengers he had sent +with Kolimbota to the Barotse valley. Shinte was particularly anxious +to explain that Kolimbota had remained after my departure of his own +accord, and that he had engaged in the quarrels of the country without +being invited; that, in attempting to capture one of the children of a +Balobale man, who had offended the Balonda by taking honey from a hive +which did not belong to him, Kolimbota had got wounded by a shot in the +thigh, but that he had cured the wound, given him a wife, and sent a +present of cloth to Sekeletu, with a full account of the whole affair. +From the statement of Shinte we found that Kolimbota had learned, before +we left his town, that the way we intended to take was so dangerous that +it would be better for him to leave us to our fate; and, as he had taken +one of our canoes with him, it seemed evident that he did not expect us +to return. Shinte, however, sent a recommendation to his sister Nyamoana +to furnish as many canoes as we should need for our descent of the Leeba +and Leeambye. + +As I had been desirous of introducing some of the fruit-trees of Angola, +both for my own sake and that of the inhabitants, we had carried a +pot containing a little plantation of orange, cashew-trees, +custard-apple-trees ('anona'), and a fig-tree, with coffee, aracas +('Araca pomifera'), and papaws ('Carica papaya'). Fearing that, if we +took them farther south at present, they might be killed by the cold, we +planted them out in an inclosure of one of Shinte's principal men, and, +at his request, promised to give Shinte a share when grown. They know +the value of fruits, but at present have none except wild ones. A wild +fruit we frequently met with in Londa is eatable, and, when boiled, +yields a large quantity of oil, which is much used in anointing +both head and body. He eagerly accepted some of the seeds of the +palm-oil-tree ('Elaeis Guineensis'), when told that this would produce +oil in much greater quantity than their native tree, which is not a +palm. There are very few palm-trees in this country, but near Bango +we saw a few of a peculiar palm, the ends of the leaf-stalks of which +remain attached to the trunk, giving it a triangular shape. + +It is pleasant to observe that all the tribes in Central Africa are fond +of agriculture. My men had collected quantities of seeds in Angola, +and now distributed them among their friends. Some even carried onions, +garlic, and bird's-eye pepper, growing in pannikins. The courts of the +Balonda, planted with tobacco, sugar-cane, and plants used as relishes, +led me to the belief that care would be taken of my little nursery. + +The thermometer early in the mornings ranged from 42 Deg. to 52 Deg., at +noon 94 Deg. to 96 Deg., and in the evening about 70 Deg. It was placed +in the shade of my tent, which was pitched under the thickest tree we +could find. The sensation of cold, after the heat of the day, was very +keen. The Balonda at this season never leave their fires till nine +or ten in the morning. As the cold was so great here, it was probably +frosty at Linyanti; I therefore feared to expose my young trees there. +The latitude of Shinte's town is 12d 37' 35" S., longitude 22d 47' E. + +We remained with Shinte till the 6th of July, he being unwilling to +allow us to depart before hearing in a formal manner, in the presence of +his greatest councilor Chebende, a message from Limboa, the brother of +Masiko. When Masiko fled from the Makololo country in consequence of a +dislike of being in a state of subjection to Sebituane, he came into the +territory of Shinte, who received him kindly, and sent orders to all +the villages in his vicinity to supply him with food. Limboa fled in a +westerly direction with a number of people, and also became a chief. +His country was sometimes called Nyenko, but by the Mambari and native +Portuguese traders "Mboela"--the place where they "turned again", +or back. As one of the fruits of polygamy, the children of different +mothers are always in a state of variance. Each son endeavors to gain +the ascendency by enticing away the followers of the others. The +mother of Limboa being of a high family, he felt aggrieved because +the situation chosen by Masiko was better than his. Masiko lived at a +convenient distance from the Saloisho hills, where there is abundance of +iron ore, with which the inhabitants manufacture hoes, knives, etc. They +are also skillful in making wooden vessels. Limboa felt annoyed because +he was obliged to apply for these articles through his brother, whom he +regarded as his inferior, and accordingly resolved to come into the same +district. As this was looked upon as an assertion of superiority which +Masiko would resist, it was virtually a declaration of war. Both Masiko +and Shinte pleaded my injunction to live in peace and friendship, but +Limboa, confident of success, now sent the message which I was about +to hear--"That he, too, highly approved of the 'word' I had given, but +would only for once transgress a little, and live at peace for ever +afterward." He now desired the aid of Shinte to subdue his brother. +Messengers came from Masiko at the same time, desiring assistance to +repel him. Shinte felt inclined to aid Limboa, but, as he had advised +them both to wait till I came, I now urged him to let the quarrel alone, +and he took my advice. + +We parted on the best possible terms with our friend Shinte, and +proceeded by our former path to the village of his sister Nyamoana, who +is now a widow. She received us with much apparent feeling, and said, +"We had removed from our former abode to the place where you found us, +and had no idea then that it was the spot where my husband was to die." +She had come to the River Lofuje, as they never remain in a place where +death has once visited them. We received the loan of five small canoes +from her, and also one of those we had left here before, to proceed down +the Leeba. After viewing the Coanza at Massangano, I thought the Leeba +at least a third larger, and upward of two hundred yards wide. We saw +evidence of its rise during its last flood having been upward of forty +feet in perpendicular height; but this is probably more than usual, as +the amount of rain was above the average. My companions purchased also +a number of canoes from the Balonda. These are very small, and can carry +only two persons. They are made quite thin and light, and as sharp as +racing-skiffs, because they are used in hunting animals in the water. +The price paid was a string of beads equal to the length of the canoe. +We advised them to bring canoes for sale to the Makololo, as they would +gladly give them cows in exchange. + +In descending the Leeba we saw many herds of wild animals, especially +the tahetsi ('Aigoceros equina'), one magnificent antelope, the +putokuane ('Antilope niger'), and two fine lions. The Balobale, however, +are getting well supplied with guns, and will soon thin out the large +game. At one of the villages we were entreated to attack some buffaloes +which grazed in the gardens every night and destroyed the manioc. As +we had had no success in shooting at the game we had seen, and we all +longed to have a meal of meat, we followed the footprints of a number +of old bulls. They showed a great amount of cunning by selecting the +densest parts of very closely-planted forests to stand or recline in +during the day. We came within six yards of them several times before +we knew that they were so near. We only heard them rush away among the +crashing branches, catching only a glimpse of them. It was somewhat +exciting to feel, as we trod on the dry leaves with stealthy steps, +that, for any thing we knew, we might next moment be charged by one of +the most dangerous beasts of the forest. We threaded out their doublings +for hours, drawn on by a keen craving for animal food, as we had been +entirely without salt for upward of two months, but never could get a +shot. + +In passing along the side of the water every where except in Londa, +green frogs spring out at your feet, and light in the water as if taking +a "header"; and on the Leeambye and Chobe we have great numbers of small +green frogs ('Rana fasciata', Boie), which light on blades of grass with +remarkable precision; but on coming along the Leeba I was struck by the +sight of a light green toad about an inch long. The leaf might be nearly +perpendicular, but it stuck to it like a fly. It was of the same size +as the 'Brachymerus bi-fasciatus' (Smith),* which I saw only once in the +Bakwain country. Though small, it was hideous, being colored jet black, +with vermilion spots. + + * The discovery of this last species is thus mentioned by that + accomplished naturalist, Dr. Smith: "On the banks of the + Limpopo River, close to the tropic of Capricorn, a massive + tree was cut down to obtain wood to repair a wagon. The + workman, while sawing the trunk longitudinally nearly along + its centre, remarked, on reaching a certain point, 'It is + hollow, and will not answer the purpose for which it is + wanted.' He persevered, however, and when a division into + equal halves was effected, it was discovered that the saw in + its course had crossed a large hole, in which were five + specimens of the species just described, each about an inch in + length. Every exertion was made to discover a means of + communication between the external air and the cavity, but + without success. Every part of the latter was probed with the + utmost care, and water was kept in each half for a + considerable time, without any passing into the wood. The + inner surface of the cavity was black, as if charred, and so + was likewise the adjoining wood for half an inch from the + cavity. The tree, at the part where the latter existed, was + 19 inches in diameter; the length of the trunk was 18 feet. + When the Batrachia above mentioned were discovered, they + appeared inanimate, but the influence of a warm sun to which + they were subjected soon imparted to them a moderate degree of + vigor. In a few hours from the time they were liberated they + were tolerably active, and able to move from place to place + apparently with great ease." + +Before reaching the Makondo rivulet, latitude 13d 23' 12" S., we came +upon the tsetse in such numbers that many bites were inflicted on my +poor ox, in spite of a man with a branch warding them off. The bite +of this insect does not affect the donkey as it does cattle. The next +morning, the spots on which my ox had been bitten were marked by patches +of hair about half an inch broad being wetted by exudation. Poor Sinbad +had carried me all the way from the Leeba to Golungo Alto, and all +the way back again, without losing any of his peculiarities, or ever +becoming reconciled to our perversity in forcing him away each morning +from the pleasant pasturage on which he had fed. I wished to give the +climax to his usefulness, and allay our craving for animal food at the +same time; but my men having some compunction, we carried him to end his +days in peace at Naliele. + +Having dispatched a message to our old friend Manenko, we waited a day +opposite her village, which was about fifteen miles from the river. Her +husband was instantly dispatched to meet us with liberal presents of +food, she being unable to travel in consequence of a burn on the foot. +Sambanza gave us a detailed account of the political affairs of the +country, and of Kolimbota's evil doings, and next morning performed +the ceremony called "Kasendi", for cementing our friendship. It is +accomplished thus: The hands of the parties are joined (in this case +Pitsane and Sambanza were the parties engaged); small incisions are made +on the clasped hands, on the pits of the stomach of each, and on the +right cheeks and foreheads. A small quantity of blood is taken off from +these points in both parties by means of a stalk of grass. The blood +from one person is put into a pot of beer, and that of the second into +another; each then drinks the other's blood, and they are supposed to +become perpetual friends or relations. During the drinking of the beer, +some of the party continue beating the ground with short clubs, and +utter sentences by way of ratifying the treaty. The men belonging +to each then finish the beer. The principals in the performance of +"Kasendi" are henceforth considered blood-relations, and are bound to +disclose to each other any impending evil. If Sekeletu should resolve to +attack the Balonda, Pitsane would be under obligation to give Sambanza +warning to escape, and so on the other side. They now presented each +other with the most valuable presents they had to bestow. Sambanza +walked off with Pitsane's suit of green baize faced with red, which had +been made in Loanda, and Pitsane, besides abundant supplies of food, +obtained two shells similar to that I had received from Shinte. + +On one occasion I became blood-relation to a young woman by accident. +She had a large cartilaginous tumor between the bones of the fore-arm, +which, as it gradually enlarged, so distended the muscles as to render +her unable to work. She applied to me to excise it. I requested her to +bring her husband, if he were willing to have the operation performed, +and, while removing the tumor, one of the small arteries squirted some +blood into my eye. She remarked, when I was wiping the blood out of it, +"You were a friend before, now you are a blood-relation; and when you +pass this way, always send me word, that I may cook food for you." In +creating these friendships, my men had the full intention of returning; +each one had his 'Molekane' (friend) in every village of the friendly +Balonda. Mohorisi even married a wife in the town of Katema, and Pitsane +took another in the town of Shinte. These alliances were looked upon +with great favor by the Balonda chiefs, as securing the good-will of the +Makololo. + +In order that the social condition of the tribes may be understood by +the reader, I shall mention that, while waiting for Sambanza, a party of +Barotse came from Nyenko, the former residence of Limboa, who had lately +crossed the Leeba on his way toward Masiko. The head man of this party +had brought Limboa's son to his father, because the Barotse at Nyenko +had, since the departure of Limboa, elected Nananko, another son +of Santuru, in his stead; and our visitor, to whom the boy had been +intrusted as a guardian, thinking him to be in danger, fled with him +to his father. The Barotse, whom Limboa had left behind at Nyenko, on +proceeding to elect Nananko, said, "No, it is quite too much for Limboa +to rule over two places." I would have gone to visit Limboa and Masiko +too, in order to prevent hostilities, but the state of my ox would +not allow it. I therefore sent a message to Limboa by some of his men, +protesting against war with his brother, and giving him formal notice +that the path up the Leeba had been given to us by the Balonda, the +owners of the country, and that no attempt must ever be made to obstruct +free intercourse. + +On leaving this place we were deserted by one of our party, Mboenga, an +Ambonda man, who had accompanied us all the way to Loanda and back. His +father was living with Masiko, and it was natural for him to wish to +join his own family again. He went off honestly, with the exception of +taking a fine "tari" skin given me by Nyamoana, but he left a parcel +of gun-flints which he had carried for me all the way from Loanda. I +regretted parting with him thus, and sent notice to him that he need not +have run away, and if he wished to come to Sekeletu again he would be +welcome. We subsequently met a large party of Barotse fleeing in +the same direction; but when I represented to them that there was a +probability of their being sold as slaves in Londa, and none in the +country of Sekeletu, they concluded to return. The grievance which the +Barotse most feel is being obliged to live with Sekeletu at Linyanti, +where there is neither fish nor fowl, nor any other kind of food, equal +in quantity to what they enjoy in their own fat valley. + +A short distance below the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye we met a +number of hunters belonging to the tribe called Mambowe, who live under +Masiko. They had dried flesh of hippopotami, buffaloes, and alligators. +They stalk the animals by using the stratagem of a cap made of the +skin of a leche's or poku's head, having the horns still attached, and +another made so as to represent the upper white part of the crane called +jabiru ('Mycteru Senegalensis'), with its long neck and beak above. With +these on, they crawl through the grass; they can easily put up their +heads so far as to see their prey without being recognized until they +are within bow-shot. They presented me with three fine water-turtles,* +one of which, when cooked, had upward of forty eggs in its body. The +shell of the egg is flexible, and it is of the same size at both ends, +like those of the alligator. The flesh, and especially the liver, is +excellent. The hunters informed us that, when the message inculcating +peace among the tribes came to Masiko, the common people were so glad at +the prospect of "binding up the spears", that they ran to the river, and +bathed and plunged in it for joy. This party had been sent by Masiko to +the Makololo for aid to repel their enemy, but, afraid to go thither, +had spent the time in hunting. They have a dread of the Makololo, and +hence the joy they expressed when peace was proclaimed. The Mambowe +hunters were much alarmed until my name was mentioned. They then joined +our party, and on the following day discovered a hippopotamus dead, +which they had previously wounded. This was the first feast of flesh my +men had enjoyed, for, though the game was wonderfully abundant, I had +quite got out of the way of shooting, and missed perpetually. Once I +went with the determination of getting so close that I should not miss a +zebra. We went along one of the branches that stretch out from the +river in a small canoe, and two men, stooping down as low as they could, +paddled it slowly along to an open space near to a herd of zebras and +pokus. Peering over the edge of the canoe, the open space seemed like a +patch of wet ground, such as is often seen on the banks of a river, made +smooth as the resting-place of alligators. When we came within a few +yards of it, we found by the precipitate plunging of the reptile that +this was a large alligator itself. Although I had been most careful +to approach near enough, I unfortunately only broke the hind leg of +a zebra. My two men pursued it, but the loss of a hind leg does not +prevent this animal from a gallop. As I walked slowly after the men on +an extensive plain covered with a great crop of grass, which was 'laid' +by its own weight, I observed that a solitary buffalo, disturbed by +others of my own party, was coming to me at a gallop. I glanced around, +but the only tree on the plain was a hundred yards off, and there was +no escape elsewhere. I therefore cocked my rifle, with the intention +of giving him a steady shot in the forehead when he should come within +three or four yards of me. The thought flashed across my mind, "What if +your gun misses fire?" I placed it to my shoulder as he came on at +full speed, and that is tremendous, though generally he is a +lumbering-looking animal in his paces. A small bush and bunch of grass +fifteen yards off made him swerve a little, and exposed his shoulder. I +just heard the ball crack there as I fell flat on my face. The pain must +have made him renounce his purpose, for he bounded close past me on to +the water, where he was found dead. In expressing my thankfulness to +God among my men, they were much offended with themselves for not +being present to shield me from this danger. The tree near me was a +camel-thorn, and reminded me that we had come back to the land of thorns +again, for the country we had left is one of evergreens. + + * It is probably a species allied to the 'Sternotherus + sinuatus' of Dr. Smith, as it has no disagreeable smell. This + variety annually leaves the water with so much regularity for + the deposit of its eggs, that the natives decide on the time + of sowing their seed by its appearance. + +JULY 27TH. We reached the town of Libonta, and were received with +demonstrations of joy such as I had never witnessed before. The women +came forth to meet us, making their curious dancing gestures and loud +lulliloos. Some carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and +shield. Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and cheeks of the +different persons of their acquaintance among us, raising such a dust +that it was quite a relief to get to the men assembled and sitting with +proper African decorum in the kotla. We were looked upon as men risen +from the dead, for the most skillful of their diviners had pronounced us +to have perished long ago. After many expressions of joy at meeting, I +arose, and, thanking them, explained the causes of our long delay, but +left the report to be made by their own countrymen. Formerly I had +been the chief speaker, now I would leave the task of speaking to them. +Pitsane then delivered a speech of upward of an hour in length, giving +a highly flattering picture of the whole journey, of the kindness of the +white men in general, and of Mr. Gabriel in particular. He concluded by +saying that I had done more for them than they expected; that I had not +only opened up a path for them to the other white men, but conciliated +all the chiefs along the route. The oldest man present rose and answered +this speech, and, among other things, alluded to the disgust I felt at +the Makololo for engaging in marauding expeditions against Lechulatebe +and Sebolamakwaia, of which we had heard from the first persons we met, +and which my companions most energetically denounced as "mashue hela", +entirely bad. He entreated me not to lose heart, but to reprove Sekeletu +as my child. Another old man followed with the same entreaties. The +following day we observed as our thanksgiving to God for his goodness in +bringing us all back in safety to our friends. My men decked themselves +out in their best, and I found that, although their goods were finished, +they had managed to save suits of European clothing, which, being white, +with their red caps, gave them rather a dashing appearance. They tried +to walk like the soldiers they had seen in Loanda, and called themselves +my "braves" (batlabani). During the service they all sat with their guns +over their shoulders, and excited the unbounded admiration of the women +and children. I addressed them all on the goodness of God in preserving +us from all the dangers of strange tribes and disease. We had a similar +service in the afternoon. The men gave us two fine oxen for slaughter, +and the women supplied us abundantly with milk, meal, and butter. It was +all quite gratuitous, and I felt ashamed that I could make no return. +My men explained the total expenditure of our means, and the Libontese +answered gracefully, "It does not matter; you have opened a path for us, +and we shall have sleep." Strangers came flocking from a distance, and +seldom empty-handed. Their presents I distributed among my men. + +Our progress down the Barotse valley was just like this. Every village +gave us an ox, and sometimes two. The people were wonderfully kind. I +felt, and still feel, most deeply grateful, and tried to benefit them in +the only way I could, by imparting the knowledge of that Savior who can +comfort and supply them in the time of need, and my prayer is that +he may send his good Spirit to instruct them and lead them into his +kingdom. Even now I earnestly long to return, and make some recompense +to them for their kindness. In passing them on our way to the north, +their liberality might have been supposed to be influenced by the hope +of repayment on our return, for the white man's land is imagined to be +the source of every ornament they prize most. But, though we set out +from Loanda with a considerable quantity of goods, hoping both to pay +our way through the stingy Chiboque, and to make presents to the kind +Balonda and still more generous Makololo, the many delays caused by +sickness made us expend all my stock, and all the goods my men procured +by their own labor at Loanda, and we returned to the Makololo as poor +as when we set out. Yet no distrust was shown, and my poverty did not +lessen my influence. They saw that I had been exerting myself for their +benefit alone, and even my men remarked, "Though we return as poor as we +went, we have not gone in vain." They began immediately to collect tusks +of hippopotami and other ivory for a second journey. + + + + +Chapter 25. + +Colony of Birds called Linkololo--The Village of Chitlane--Murder +of Mpololo's Daughter--Execution of the Murderer and his Wife--My +Companions find that their Wives have married other Husbands-- +Sunday--A Party from Masiko--Freedom of Speech--Canoe struck by a +Hippopotamus--Gonye--Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter--Murky +Atmosphere--Surprising Amount of organic Life--Hornets--The Packages +forwarded by Mr. Moffat--Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the Matebele +who brought them--Convey the Goods to an Island and build a Hut over +them--Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had recognized the true Form of +African Continent--Arrival at Linyanti--A grand Picho--Shrewd Inquiry-- +Sekeletu in his Uniform--A Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory-- +Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to them--Difficulties in Trading--Two Makololo +Forays during our Absence--Report of the Country to the N.E.--Death of +influential Men--The Makololo desire to be nearer the Market +--Opinions upon a Change of Residence--Climate of Barotse Valley-- +Diseases--Author's Fevers not a fair Criterion in the Matter--The +Interior an inviting Field for the Philanthropist--Consultations about +a Path to the East Coast--Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi-- +Wait for the Rainy Season--Native way of spending Time during the period +of greatest Heat--Favorable Opening for Missionary Enterprise--Ben +Habib wishes to marry--A Maiden's Choice--Sekeletu's Hospitality-- +Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria--Conversations with Makololo--Their +moral Character and Conduct--Sekeletu wishes to purchase a Sugar-mill, +etc.--The Donkeys--Influence among the Natives--"Food fit for a +Chief"--Parting Words of Mamire--Motibe's Excuses. + + + +On the 31st of July we parted with our kind Libonta friends. We planted +some of our palm-tree seeds in different villages of this valley. They +began to sprout even while we were there, but, unfortunately, they were +always destroyed by the mice which swarm in every hut. + +At Chitlane's village we collected the young of a colony of the +linkololo ('Anastomus lamalligerus'), a black, long-legged bird, +somewhat larger than a crow, which lives on shellfish ('Ampullaria'), +and breeds in society at certain localities among the reeds. These +places are well known, as they continue there from year to year, and +belong to the chiefs, who at particular times of the year gather most +of the young. The produce of this "harvest", as they call it, which was +presented to me, was a hundred and seventy-five unfledged birds. They +had been rather late in collecting them, in consequence of waiting for +the arrival of Mpololo, who acts the part of chief, but gave them to me, +knowing that this would be pleasing to him, otherwise this colony would +have yielded double the amount. The old ones appear along the Leeambye +in vast flocks, and look lean and scraggy. The young are very fat, and, +when roasted, are esteemed one of the dainties of the Barotse valley. In +presents of this kind, as well as of oxen, it is a sort of feast of joy, +the person to whom they are presented having the honor of distributing +the materials of the feast. We generally slaughtered every ox at the +village where it was presented, and then our friends and we rejoiced +together. + +The village of Chitlane is situated, like all others in the Barotse +valley, on an eminence, over which floods do not rise; but this last +year the water approached nearer to an entire submergence of the whole +valley than has been known in the memory of man. Great numbers of people +were now suffering from sickness, which always prevails when the waters +are drying up, and I found much demand for the medicines I had brought +from Loanda. The great variation of the temperature each day must have +a trying effect upon the health. At this village there is a real Indian +banian-tree, which has spread itself over a considerable space by means +of roots from its branches; it has been termed, in consequence, "the +tree with legs" (more oa maotu). It is curious that trees of this family +are looked upon with veneration, and all the way from the Barotse to +Loanda are thought to be preservatives from evil. + +On reaching Naliele on the 1st of August we found Mpololo in great +affliction on account of the death of his daughter and her child. She +had been lately confined; and her father naturally remembered her when +an ox was slaughtered, or when the tribute of other food, which he +receives in lieu of Sekeletu, came in his way, and sent frequent +presents to her. This moved the envy of one of the Makololo who hated +Mpololo, and, wishing to vex him, he entered the daughter's hut by +night, and strangled both her and her child. He then tried to make fire +in the hut and burn it, so that the murder might not be known; but +the squeaking noise of rubbing the sticks awakened a servant, and the +murderer was detected. Both he and his wife were thrown into the river; +the latter having "known of her husband's intentions, and not revealing +them." She declared she had dissuaded him from the crime, and, had any +one interposed a word, she might have been spared. + +Mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply us with other canoes, and +we left Shinte's with him. The Mambowe were well received, and departed +with friendly messages to their chief Masiko. My men were exceedingly +delighted with the cordial reception we met with every where; but a +source of annoyance was found where it was not expected. Many of their +wives had married other men during our two years' absence. Mashauana's +wife, who had borne him two children, was among the number. He wished +to appear not to feel it much, saying, "Why, wives are as plentiful as +grass, and I can get another: she may go;" but he would add, "If I had +that fellow, I would open his ears for him." As most of them had more +wives than one, I tried to console them by saying that they had still +more than I had, and that they had enough yet; but they felt the +reflection to be galling, that while they were toiling, another had been +devouring their corn. Some of their wives came with very young infants +in their arms. This excited no discontent; and for some I had to speak +to the chief to order the men, who had married the only wives some of my +companions ever had, to restore them. + +SUNDAY, AUGUST 5TH. A large audience listened most attentively to my +morning address. Surely some will remember the ideas conveyed, and pray +to our merciful Father, who would never have thought of Him but for this +visit. The invariably kind and respectful treatment I have received from +these, and many other heathen tribes in this central country, together +with the attentive observations of many years, have led me to the +belief that, if one exerts himself for their good, he will never be ill +treated. There may be opposition to his doctrine, but none to the man +himself. + +While still at Naliele, a party which had been sent after me by Masiko +arrived. He was much disappointed because I had not visited him. They +brought an elephant's tusk, two calabashes of honey, two baskets of +maize, and one of ground-nuts, as a present. Masiko wished to say that +he had followed the injunction which I had given as the will of God, and +lived in peace until his brother Limboa came, captured his women as they +went to their gardens, and then appeared before his stockade. Masiko +offered to lead his men out; but they objected, saying, "Let us servants +be killed, you must not be slain." Those who said this were young +Barotse who had been drilled to fighting by Sebituane, and used shields +of ox-hide. They beat off the party of Limboa, ten being wounded, and +ten slain in the engagement. Limboa subsequently sent three slaves as +a self-imposed fine to Masiko for attacking him. I succeeded in getting +the Makololo to treat the messengers of Masiko well, though, as they +regarded them as rebels, it was somewhat against the grain at first to +speak civilly to them. + +Mpololo, attempting to justify an opposite line of conduct, told me how +they had fled from Sebituane, even though he had given them numbers of +cattle after their subjection by his arms, and was rather surprised +to find that I was disposed to think more highly of them for having +asserted their independence, even at the loss of milk. For this food, +all who have been accustomed to it from infancy in Africa have an +excessive longing. I pointed out how they might be mutually beneficial +to each other by the exchange of canoes and cattle. + +There are some very old Barotse living here who were the companions of +the old chief Santuru. These men, protected by their age, were very free +in their comments on the "upstart" Makololo. One of them, for instance, +interrupted my conversation one day with some Makololo gentlemen with +the advice "not to believe them, for they were only a set of thieves;" +and it was taken in quite a good-natured way. It is remarkable that none +of the ancients here had any tradition of an earthquake having occurred +in this region. Their quick perception of events recognizable by +the senses, and retentiveness of memory, render it probable that no +perceptible movement of the earth has taken place between 7 Deg. and 27 +Deg. S. in the centre of the continent during the last two centuries at +least. There is no appearance of recent fracture or disturbance of rocks +to be seen in the central country, except the falls of Gonye; nor is +there any evidence or tradition of hurricanes. + +I left Naliele on the 13th of August, and, when proceeding along the +shore at midday, a hippopotamus struck the canoe with her forehead, +lifting one half of it quite out of the water, so as nearly to overturn +it. The force of the butt she gave tilted Mashauana out into the river; +the rest of us sprang to the shore, which was only about ten yards off. +Glancing back, I saw her come to the surface a short way off, and look +to the canoe, as if to see if she had done much mischief. It was a +female, whose young one had been speared the day before. No damage was +done except wetting person and goods. This is so unusual an occurrence, +when the precaution is taken to coast along the shore, that my men +exclaimed, "Is the beast mad?" There were eight of us in the canoe at +the time, and the shake it received shows the immense power of this +animal in the water. + +On reaching Gonye, Mokwala, the head man, having presented me with a +tusk, I gave it to Pitsane, as he was eagerly collecting ivory for the +Loanda market. The rocks of Gonye are reddish gray sandstone, nearly +horizontal, and perforated by madrepores, the holes showing the +course of the insect in different directions. The rock itself has +been impregnated with iron, and that hardened, forms a glaze on the +surface--an appearance common to many of the rocks of this country. + +AUGUST 22D. This is the end of winter. The trees which line the banks +begin to bud and blossom, and there is some show of the influence of the +new sap, which will soon end in buds that push off the old foliage by +assuming a very bright orange color. This orange is so bright that I +mistook it for masses of yellow blossom. There is every variety of shade +in the leaves--yellow, purple, copper, liver-color, and even inky black. + +Having got the loan of other canoes from Mpololo, and three oxen as +provision for the way, which made the number we had been presented with +in the Barotse valley amount to thirteen, we proceeded down the river +toward Sesheke, and were as much struck as formerly with the noble +river. The whole scenery is lovely, though the atmosphere is murky in +consequence of the continuance of the smoky tinge of winter. + +This peculiar tinge of the atmosphere was observed every winter at +Kolobeng, but it was not so observable in Londa as in the south, though +I had always considered that it was owing to the extensive burnings +of the grass, in which hundreds of miles of pasturage are annually +consumed. As the quantity burned in the north is very much greater than +in the south, and the smoky tinge of winter was not observed, some other +explanation than these burnings must be sought for. I have sometimes +imagined that the lowering of the temperature in the winter rendered +the vapor in the upper current of air visible, and imparted this hazy +appearance. + +The amount of organic life is surprising. At the time the river begins +to rise, the 'Ibis religiosa' comes down in flocks of fifties, with +prodigious numbers of other water-fowl. Some of the sand-banks appear +whitened during the day with flocks of pelicans--I once counted three +hundred; others are brown with ducks ('Anas histrionica')--I got +fourteen of these by one shot ('Querquedula Hottentota', Smith), and +other kinds. Great numbers of gulls ('Procellaria turtur', Smith), +and several others, float over the surface. The vast quantity of small +birds, which feed on insects, show that the river teems also with +specimens of minute organic life. In walking among bushes on the banks +we are occasionally stung by a hornet, which makes its nest in form +like that of our own wasp, and hangs it on the branches of trees. The +breeding storgh* is so strong in this insect that it pursues any one +twenty or thirty yards who happens to brush too closely past its nest. +The sting, which it tries to inflict near the eye, is more like a +discharge of electricity from a powerful machine, or a violent blow, +than aught else. It produces momentary insensibility, and is followed by +the most pungent pain. Yet this insect is quite timid when away from its +nest. It is named Murotuani by the Bechuanas. + + * (Greek) sigma-tau-omicron-rho-gamma-eta. + +We have tsetse between Nameta and Sekhosi. An insect of prey, about an +inch in length, long-legged and gaunt-looking, may be observed flying +about and lighting upon the bare ground. It is a tiger in its way, for +it springs upon tsetse and other flies, and, sucking out their blood, +throws the bodies aside. + +Long before reaching Sesheke we had been informed that a party of +Matebele, the people of Mosilikatse, had brought some packages of goods +for me to the south bank of the river, near the Victoria Falls, and, +though they declared that they had been sent by Mr. Moffat, the Makololo +had refused to credit the statement of their sworn enemies. They +imagined that the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick, whereby +to place witchcraft-medicine into the hands of the Makololo. When the +Matebele on the south bank called to the Makololo on the north to come +over in canoes and receive the goods sent by Moffat to "Nake", the +Makololo replied, "Go along with you, we know better than that; how +could he tell Moffat to send his things here, he having gone away to the +north?" The Matebele answered, "Here are the goods; we place them now +before you, and if you leave them to perish the guilt will be yours." +When they had departed the Makololo thought better of it, and, after +much divination, went over with fear and trembling, and carried the +packages carefully to an island in the middle of the stream; then, +building a hut over them to protect them from the weather, they left +them; and there I found they had remained from September, 1854, till +September, 1855, in perfect safety. Here, as I had often experienced +before, I found the news was very old, and had lost much of its interest +by keeping, but there were some good eatables from Mrs. Moffat. Among +other things, I discovered that my friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, while +in his study in London, had arrived at the same conclusion respecting +the form of the African continent as I had lately come to on the spot +(see note p. 512 [footnote to Chapter 24 Paragraph 7]); and that, +from the attentive study of the geological map of Mr. Bain and other +materials, some of which were furnished by the discoveries of Mr. +Oswell and myself, he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar +configuration as an hypothesis in his discourse before the Geographical +Society in 1852, but had even the assurance to send me out a copy for my +information! There was not much use in nursing my chagrin at being +thus fairly "cut out" by the man who had foretold the existence of +the Australian gold before its discovery, for here it was in black and +white. In his easy-chair he had forestalled me by three years, though I +had been working hard through jungle, marsh, and fever, and, since the +light dawned on my mind at Dilolo, had been cherishing the pleasing +delusion that I should be the first to suggest the idea that the +interior of Africa was a watery plateau of less elevation than flanking +hilly ranges. + +Having waited a few days at Sesheke till the horses which we had left at +Linyanti should arrive, we proceeded to that town, and found the wagon, +and every thing we had left in November, 1853, perfectly safe. A grand +meeting of all the people was called to receive our report, and the +articles which had been sent by the governor and merchants of Loanda. I +explained that none of these were my property, but that they were sent +to show the friendly feelings of the white men, and their eagerness to +enter into commercial relations with the Makololo. I then requested my +companions to give a true account of what they had seen. The wonderful +things lost nothing in the telling, the climax always being that they +had finished the whole world, and had turned only when there was no more +land. One glib old gentleman asked, "Then you reached Ma Robert (Mrs. +L.)?" They were obliged to confess that she lived a little beyond the +world. The presents were received with expressions of great satisfaction +and delight; and on Sunday, when Sekeletu made his appearance at church +in his uniform, it attracted more attention than the sermon; and +the kind expressions they made use of respecting myself were so very +flattering that I felt inclined to shut my eyes. Their private opinion +must have tallied with their public report, for I very soon received +offers from volunteers to accompany me to the east coast. They said they +wished to be able to return and relate strange things like my recent +companions; and Sekeletu immediately made arrangements with the Arab Ben +Habib to conduct a fresh party with a load of ivory to Loanda. These, +he said, must go with him and learn to trade: they were not to have any +thing to do in the disposal of the ivory, but simply look and learn. My +companions were to remain and rest themselves, and then return to Loanda +when the others had come home. Sekeletu consulted me as to sending +presents back to the governor and merchants of Loanda, but, not +possessing much confidence in this Arab, I advised him to send a present +by Pitsane, as he knew who ought to receive it. + +Since my arrival in England, information has been received from Mr. +Gabriel that this party had arrived on the west coast, but that the +ivory had been disposed of to some Portuguese merchants in the interior, +and the men had been obliged to carry it down to Loanda. They had not +been introduced to Mr. Gabriel, but that gentleman, having learned that +they were in the city, went to them, and pronounced the names Pitsane, +Mashauana, when all started up and crowded round him. When Mr. G. +obtained an interpreter, he learned that they had been ordered by +Sekeletu to be sure and go to my brother, as he termed him. Mr. G. +behaved in the same liberal manner as he had done to my companions, +and they departed for their distant home after bidding him a formal and +affectionate adieu. + +It was to be expected that they would be imposed upon in their first +attempt at trading, but I believe that this could not be so easily +repeated. It is, however, unfortunate that in dealing with the natives +in the interior there is no attempt made at the establishment of fair +prices. The trader shows a quantity of goods, the native asks for more, +and more is given. The native, being ignorant of the value of the +goods or of his ivory, tries what another demand will bring. After some +haggling, an addition is made, and that bargain is concluded to the +satisfaction of both parties. Another trader comes, and perhaps offers +more than the first; the customary demand for an addition is made, and +he yields. The natives by this time are beginning to believe that the +more they ask the more they will get: they continue to urge, the trader +bursts into a rage, and the trade is stopped, to be renewed next day by +a higher offer. The natives naturally conclude that they were right +the day before, and a most disagreeable commercial intercourse is +established. A great amount of time is spent in concluding these +bargains. In other parts, it is quite common to see the natives going +from one trader to another till they have finished the whole village; +and some give presents of brandy to tempt their custom. Much of this +unpleasant state of feeling between natives and Europeans results from +the commencements made by those who were ignorant of the language, and +from the want of education being given at the same time. + +During the time of our absence at Loanda, the Makololo had made two +forays, and captured large herds of cattle. One, to the lake, was in +order to punish Lechulatebe for the insolence he had manifested after +procuring some fire-arms; and the other to Sebola Makwaia, a chief +living far to the N.E. This was most unjustifiable, and had been +condemned by all the influential Makololo. Ben Habib, however, had, in +coming from Zanzibar, visited Sebola Makwaia, and found that the chief +town was governed by an old woman of that name. She received him kindly, +and gave him a large quantity of magnificent ivory, sufficient to +set him up as a trader, at a very small cost; but, his party having +discharged their guns, Ben Habib observed that the female chief and her +people were extremely alarmed, and would have fled and left their cattle +in a panic, had he not calmed their fears. Ben Habib informed the uncle +of Sekeletu that he could easily guide him thither, and he might get +a large number of cattle without any difficulty. This uncle advised +Sekeletu to go; and, as the only greatness he knew was imitation of his +father's deeds, he went, but was not so successful as was anticipated. +Sebola Makwaia had fled on hearing of the approach of the Makololo; and, +as the country is marshy and intersected in every direction by rivers, +they could not easily pursue her. They captured canoes, and, pursuing up +different streams, came to a small lake called "Shuia". Having entered +the Loangwa, flowing to the eastward, they found it advisable to return, +as the natives in those parts became more warlike the further they went +in that direction. Before turning, the Arab pointed out an elevated +ridge in the distance, and said to the Makololo, "When we see that, +we always know that we are only ten or fifteen days from the sea." On +seeing him afterward, he informed me that on the same ridge, but much +further to the north, the Banyassa lived, and that the rivers flowed +from it toward the S.W. He also confirmed the other Arab's account that +the Loapula, which he had crossed at the town of Cazembe, flowed in the +same direction, and into the Leeambye. + +Several of the influential Makololo who had engaged in these marauding +expeditions had died before our arrival, and Nokwane had succumbed to +his strange disease. Ramosantane had perished through vomiting blood +from over-fatigue in the march, and Lerimo was affected by a leprosy +peculiar to the Barotse valley. In accordance with the advice of my +Libonta friends, I did not fail to reprove "my child Sekeletu" for his +marauding. This was not done in an angry manner, for no good is ever +achieved by fierce denunciations. Motibe, his father-in-law, said to me, +"Scold him much, but don't let others hear you." + +The Makololo expressed great satisfaction with the route we had opened +up to the west, and soon after our arrival a "picho" was called, in +order to discuss the question of removal to the Barotse valley, so +that they might be nearer the market. Some of the older men objected to +abandoning the line of defense afforded by the rivers Chobe and Zambesi +against their southern enemies the Matebele. The Makololo generally have +an aversion to the Barotse valley, on account of the fevers which are +annually engendered in it as the waters dry up. They prefer it only as +a cattle station; for, though the herds are frequently thinned by an +epidemic disease (peripneumonia), they breed so fast that the losses +are soon made good. Wherever else the Makololo go, they always leave +a portion of their stock in the charge of herdsmen in that prolific +valley. Some of the younger men objected to removal, because the +rankness of the grass at the Barotse did not allow of their running +fast, and because there "it never becomes cool." + +Sekeletu at last stood up, and, addressing me, said, "I am perfectly +satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of the path which you +have opened, and think that we ought to go to the Barotse, in order +to make the way from us to Loanda shorter; but with whom am I to live +there? If you were coming with us, I would remove to-morrow; but now you +are going to the white man's country to bring Ma Robert, and when you +return you will find me near to the spot on which you wish to dwell." +I had then no idea that any healthy spot existed in the country, and +thought only of a convenient central situation, adapted for intercourse +with the adjacent tribes and with the coast, such as that near to the +confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. + +The fever is certainly a drawback to this otherwise important missionary +field. The great humidity produced by heavy rains and inundations, the +exuberant vegetation caused by fervid heat in rich moist soil, and the +prodigious amount of decaying vegetable matter annually exposed after +the inundations to the rays of a torrid sun, with a flat surface often +covered by forest through which the winds can not pass, all combine +to render the climate far from salubrious for any portion of the human +family. But the fever, thus caused and rendered virulent, is almost the +only disease prevalent in it. There is no consumption or scrofula, +and but little insanity. Smallpox and measles visited the country some +thirty years ago and cut off many, but they have since made no return, +although the former has been almost constantly in one part or another +of the coast. Singularly enough, the people used inoculation for this +disease; and in one village, where they seem to have chosen a malignant +case from which to inoculate the rest, nearly the whole village was cut +off. I have seen but one case of hydrocephalus, a few of epilepsy, none +of cholera or cancer, and many diseases common in England are here +quite unknown. It is true that I suffered severely from fever, but my +experience can not be taken as a fair criterion in the matter. Compelled +to sleep on the damp ground month after month, exposed to drenching +showers, and getting the lower extremities wetted two or three times +every day, living on native food (with the exception of sugarless +coffee, during the journey to the north and the latter half of the +return journey), and that food the manioc roots and meal, which contain +so much uncombined starch that the eyes become affected (as in the +case of animals fed for experiment on pure gluten or starch), and being +exposed during many hours each day in comparative inaction to the +direct rays of the sun, the thermometer standing above 96 Deg. in the +shade--these constitute a more pitiful hygiene than any missionaries who +may follow will ever have to endure. I do not mention these privations +as if I considered them to be "sacrifices", for I think that the word +ought never to be applied to any thing we can do for Him who came down +from heaven and died for us; but I suppose it is necessary to notice +them, in order that no unfavorable opinion may be formed from my +experience as to what that of others might be, if less exposed to the +vicissitudes of the weather and change of diet. + +I believe that the interior of this country presents a much more +inviting field for the philanthropist than does the west coast, where +missionaries of the Church Missionary, United Presbyterian, and other +societies have long labored with most astonishing devotedness and +never-flagging zeal. There the fevers are much more virulent and more +speedily fatal than here, for from 8 Deg. south they almost invariably +take the intermittent or least fatal type; and their effect being to +enlarge the spleen, a complaint which is best treated by change of +climate, we have the remedy at hand by passing the 20th parallel on our +way south. But I am not to be understood as intimating that any of the +numerous tribes are anxious for instruction: they are not the inquiring +spirits we read of in other countries; they do not desire the Gospel, +because they know nothing about either it or its benefits; but there is +no impediment in the way of instruction. Every head man would be proud +of a European visitor or resident in his territory, and there is perfect +security for life and property all over the interior country. The great +barriers which have kept Africa shut are the unhealthiness of the coast, +and the exclusive, illiberal disposition of the border tribes. It has +not within the historic period been cut into by deep arms of the sea, +and only a small fringe of its population have come into contact with +the rest of mankind. Race has much to do in the present circumstances of +nations; yet it is probable that the unhealthy coast-climate has reacted +on the people, and aided both in perpetuating their own degradation and +preventing those more inland from having intercourse with the rest of +the world. It is to be hoped that these obstacles will be overcome by +the more rapid means of locomotion possessed in the present age, if a +good highway can become available from the coast into the interior. + +Having found it impracticable to open up a carriage-path to the west, +it became a question as to which part of the east coast we should direct +our steps. The Arabs had come from Zanzibar through a peaceful country. +They assured me that the powerful chiefs beyond the Cazembe on the N.E., +viz., Moatutu, Moaroro, and Mogogo, chiefs of the tribes Batutu, Baroro, +and Bagogo, would have no objection to my passing through their country. +They described the population there as located in small villages like +the Balonda, and that no difficulty is experienced in traveling among +them. They mentioned also that, at a distance of ten days beyond +Cazembe, their path winds round the end of Lake Tanganyenka. But +when they reach this lake, a little to the northwest of its southern +extremity, they find no difficulty in obtaining canoes to carry them +over. They sleep on islands, for it is said to require three days in +crossing, and may thus be forty or fifty miles broad. Here they punt the +canoes the whole way, showing that it is shallow. There are many small +streams in the path, and three large rivers. This, then, appeared to me +to be the safest; but my present object being a path admitting of water +rather than land carriage, this route did not promise so much as that +by way of the Zambesi or Leeambye. The Makololo knew all the country +eastward as far as the Kafue, from having lived in former times near +the confluence of that river with the Zambesi, and they all advised this +path in preference to that by the way of Zanzibar. The only difficulty +that they assured me of was that in the falls of Victoria. Some +recommended my going to Sesheke, and crossing over in a N.E. direction +to the Kafue, which is only six days distant, and descending that river +to the Zambesi. Others recommended me to go on the south bank of the +Zambesi until I had passed the falls, then get canoes and proceed +farther down the river. All spoke strongly of the difficulties of +traveling on the north bank, on account of the excessively broken +and rocky nature of the country near the river on that side. And when +Ponuane, who had lately headed a foray there, proposed that I should +carry canoes along that side till we reached the spot where the +Leeambye becomes broad and placid again, others declared that, from +the difficulties he himself had experienced in forcing the men of his +expedition to do this, they believed that mine would be sure to desert +me if I attempted to impose such a task upon them. Another objection to +traveling on either bank of the river was the prevalence of the tsetse, +which is so abundant that the inhabitants can keep no domestic animals +except goats. + +While pondering over these different paths, I could not help regretting +my being alone. If I had enjoyed the company of my former companion, Mr. +Oswell, one of us might have taken the Zambesi, and the other gone by +way of Zanzibar. The latter route was decidedly the easiest, because all +the inland tribes were friendly, while the tribes in the direction of +the Zambesi were inimical, and I should now be obliged to lead a party, +which the Batoka of that country view as hostile invaders, through an +enemy's land; but, as the prospect of permanent water-conveyance was +good, I decided on going down the Zambesi, and keeping on the north +bank, because, in the map given by Bowditch, Tete, the farthest inland +station of the Portuguese, is erroneously placed on that side. Being +near the end of September, the rains were expected daily; the clouds +were collecting, and the wind blew strongly from the east, but it was +excessively hot. All the Makololo urged me strongly to remain till the +ground should be cooled by the rains; and as it was probable that I +should get fever if I commenced my journey now, I resolved to wait. The +parts of the country about 17 Deg. and 18 Deg. suffer from drought and +become dusty. It is but the commencement of the humid region to the +north, and partakes occasionally of the character of both the wet and +dry regions. Some idea may be formed of the heat in October by the fact +that the thermometer (protected) stood, in the shade of my wagon, at 100 +Deg. through the day. It rose to 110 Deg. if unprotected from the wind; +at dark it showed 89 Deg.; at 10 o'clock, 80 Deg.; and then gradually +sunk till sunrise, when it was 70 Deg. That is usually the period of +greatest cold in each twenty-four hours in this region. The natives, +during the period of greatest heat, keep in their huts, which are always +pleasantly cool by day, but close and suffocating by night. Those who +are able to afford it sit guzzling beer or boyaloa. The perspiration +produced by copious draughts seems to give enjoyment, the evaporation +causing a feeling of coolness. The attendants of the chief, on these +occasions, keep up a continuous roar of bantering, raillery, laughing, +and swearing. The dance is kept up in the moonlight till past midnight. +The women stand clapping their hands continuously, and the old men sit +admiringly, and say, "It is really very fine." As crowds came to see me, +I employed much of my time in conversation, that being a good mode of +conveying instruction. In the public meetings for worship the people +listened very attentively, and behaved with more decorum than formerly. +They really form a very inviting field for a missionary. Surely the +oft-told tale of the goodness and love of our heavenly Father, in giving +up his own Son to death for us sinners, will, by the power of his Holy +Spirit, beget love in some of these heathen hearts. + +1ST OCTOBER. Before Ben Habib started for Loanda, he asked the daughter +of Sebituane in marriage. This is the plan the Arabs adopt for +gaining influence in a tribe, and they have been known to proceed thus +cautiously to form connections, and gradually gain so much influence +as to draw all the tribe over to their religion. I never heard of any +persecution, although the Arabs with whom I came in contact seemed +much attached to their religion. This daughter of Sebituane, named +Manchunyane, was about twelve years of age. As I was the bosom-friend +of her father, I was supposed to have a voice in her disposal, and, on +being asked, objected to her being taken away, we knew not whither, and +where we might never see her again. As her name implies, she was only a +little black, and, besides being as fair as any of the Arabs, had quite +the Arab features; but I have no doubt that Ben Habib will renew +his suit more successfully on some other occasion. In these cases of +marriage, the consent of the young women is seldom asked. A maid-servant +of Sekeletu, however, pronounced by the Makololo to be good-looking, was +at this time sought in marriage by five young men. Sekeletu, happening +to be at my wagon when one of these preferred his suit, very coolly +ordered all five to stand in a row before the young woman, that she +might make her choice. Two refused to stand, apparently, because they +could not brook the idea of a repulse, although willing enough to take +her if Sekeletu had acceded to their petition without reference to +her will. Three dandified fellows stood forth, and she unhesitatingly +decided on taking one who was really the best looking. It was amusing to +see the mortification exhibited on the black faces of the unsuccessful +candidates, while the spectators greeted them with a hearty laugh. + +During the whole of my stay with the Makololo, Sekeletu supplied my +wants abundantly, appointing some cows to furnish me with milk, and, +when he went out to hunt, sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be +given. That the food was not given in a niggardly spirit may be inferred +from the fact that, when I proposed to depart on the 20th of October, he +protested against my going off in such a hot sun. "Only wait," said he, +"for the first shower, and then I will let you go." This was reasonable, +for the thermometer, placed upon a deal box in the sun, rose to 138 Deg. +It stood at 108 Deg. in the shade by day, and 96 Deg. at sunset. If +my experiments were correct, the blood of a European is of a higher +temperature than that of an African. The bulb, held under my tongue, +stood at 100 Deg.; under that of the natives, at 98 Deg. There was much +sickness in the town, and no wonder, for part of the water left by the +inundation still formed a large pond in the centre. Even the plains +between Linyanti and Sesheke had not yet been freed from the waters of +the inundation. They had risen higher than usual, and for a long time +canoes passed from the one place to the other, a distance of upward of +120 miles, in nearly a straight line. We found many patches of stagnant +water, which, when disturbed by our passing through them, evolved strong +effluvia of sulphureted hydrogen. At other times these spots exhibit +an efflorescence of the nitrate of soda; they also contain abundance of +lime, probably from decaying vegetable matter, and from these may have +emanated the malaria which caused the present sickness. I have often +remarked this effluvium in sickly spots, and can not help believing but +that it has some connection with fever, though I am quite aware of Dr. +MacWilliams's unsuccessful efforts to discover sulphureted hydrogen, by +the most delicate tests, in the Niger expedition. + +I had plenty of employment, for, besides attending to the severer cases, +I had perpetual calls on my attention. The town contained at least 7000 +inhabitants, and every one thought that he might come, and at least look +at me. In talking with some of the more intelligent in the evenings, the +conversation having turned from inquiries respecting eclipses of the sun +and moon to that other world where Jesus reigns, they let me know that +my attempts to enlighten them had not been without some small effect. +"Many of the children," said they, "talk about the strange things you +bring to their ears, but the old men show a little opposition by saying, +'Do we know what he is talking about?'" Ntlaria and others complain of +treacherous memories, and say, "When we hear words about other things, +we hold them fast; but when we hear you tell much more wonderful things +than any we have ever heard before, we don't know how it is, they run +away from our hearts." These are the more intelligent of my Makololo +friends. On the majority the teaching produces no appreciable effect; +they assent to the truth with the most perplexing indifference, adding, +"But we don't know," or, "We do not understand." My medical intercourse +with them enabled me to ascertain their moral status better than a mere +religious teacher could do. They do not attempt to hide the evil, as +men often do, from their spiritual instructors; but I have found it +difficult to come to a conclusion on their character. They sometimes +perform actions remarkably good, and sometimes as strangely the +opposite. I have been unable to ascertain the motive for the good, or +account for the callousness of conscience with which they perpetrate the +bad. After long observation, I came to the conclusion that they are just +such a strange mixture of good and evil as men are every where +else. There is not among them an approach to that constant stream of +benevolence flowing from the rich to the poor which we have in England, +nor yet the unostentatious attentions which we have among our own poor +to each other. Yet there are frequent instances of genuine kindness and +liberality, as well as actions of an opposite character. The rich show +kindness to the poor in expectation of services, and a poor person who +has no relatives will seldom be supplied even with water in illness, +and, when dead, will be dragged out to be devoured by the hyaenas +instead of being buried. Relatives alone will condescend to touch a dead +body. It would be easy to enumerate instances of inhumanity which I have +witnessed. An interesting-looking girl came to my wagon one day in a +state of nudity, and almost a skeleton. She was a captive from another +tribe, and had been neglected by the man who claimed her. Having +supplied her wants, I made inquiry for him, and found that he had been +unsuccessful in raising a crop of corn, and had no food to give her. I +volunteered to take her; but he said he would allow me to feed her +and make her fat, and then take her away. I protested against his +heartlessness; and, as he said he could "not part with his child," I +was precluded from attending to her wants. In a day or two she was lost +sight of. She had gone out a little way from the town, and, being too +weak to return, had been cruelly left to perish. Another day I saw +a poor boy going to the water to drink, apparently in a starving +condition. This case I brought before the chief in council, and found +that his emaciation was ascribed to disease and want combined. He was +not one of the Makololo, but a member of a subdued tribe. I showed them +that any one professing to claim a child, and refusing proper nutriment, +would be guilty of his death. Sekeletu decided that the owner of this +boy should give up his alleged right rather than destroy the child. When +I took him he was so far gone as to be in the cold stage of starvation, +but was soon brought round by a little milk given three or four times a +day. On leaving Linyanti I handed him over to the charge of his chief, +Sekeletu, who feeds his servants very well. On the other hand, I have +seen instances in which both men and women have taken up little orphans +and carefully reared them as their own children. By a selection of cases +of either kind, it would not be difficult to make these people appear +excessively good or uncommonly bad. + +I still possessed some of the coffee which I had brought from Angola, +and some of the sugar which I had left in my wagon. So long as the sugar +lasted, Sekeletu favored me with his company at meals; but the sugar +soon came to a close. The Makololo, as formerly mentioned, were well +acquainted with the sugar-cane, as it is cultivated by the Barotse, but +never knew that sugar could be got from it. When I explained the process +by which it was produced, Sekeletu asked if I could not buy him an +apparatus for the purpose of making sugar. He said that he would plant +the cane largely if he only had the means of making the sugar from it. +I replied that I was unable to purchase a mill, when he instantly +rejoined, "Why not take ivory to buy it?" As I had been living at his +expense, I was glad of the opportunity to show my gratitude by serving +him; and when he and his principal men understood that I was willing to +execute a commission, Sekeletu gave me an order for a sugar-mill, and +for all the different varieties of clothing that he had ever seen, +especially a mohair coat, a good rifle, beads, brass-wire, etc., etc., +and wound up by saying, "And any other beautiful thing you may see in +your own country." As to the quantity of ivory required to execute the +commission, I said I feared that a large amount would be necessary. Both +he and his councilors replied, "The ivory is all your own; if you leave +any in the country it will be your own fault." He was also anxious for +horses. The two I had left with him when I went to Loanda were still +living, and had been of great use to him in hunting the giraffe and +eland, and he was now anxious to have a breed. This, I thought, might +be obtained at the Portuguese settlements. All were very much delighted +with the donkeys we had brought from Loanda. As we found that they were +not affected by the bite of the tsetse, and there was a prospect of the +breed being continued, it was gratifying to see the experiment of their +introduction so far successful. The donkeys came as frisky as kids all +the way from Loanda until we began to descend the Leeambye. There we +came upon so many interlacing branches of the river, and were obliged +to drag them through such masses of tangled aquatic plants, that we half +drowned them, and were at last obliged to leave them somewhat exhausted +at Naliele. They excited the unbounded admiration of my men by their +knowledge of the different kinds of plants, which, as they remarked, +"the animals had never before seen in their own country;" and when the +donkeys indulged in their music, they startled the inhabitants more than +if they had been lions. We never rode them, nor yet the horse which had +been given by the bishop, for fear of hurting them by any work. + +Although the Makololo were so confiding, the reader must not imagine +that they would be so to every individual who might visit them. Much of +my influence depended upon the good name given me by the Bakwains, and +that I secured only through a long course of tolerably good conduct. +No one ever gains much influence in this country without purity and +uprightness. The acts of a stranger are keenly scrutinized by both young +and old, and seldom is the judgment pronounced, even by the heathen, +unfair or uncharitable. I have heard women speaking in admiration of +a white man because he was pure, and never was guilty of any secret +immorality. Had he been, they would have known it, and, untutored +heathen though they be, would have despised him in consequence. Secret +vice becomes known throughout the tribe; and while one, unacquainted +with the language, may imagine a peccadillo to be hidden, it is as +patent to all as it would be in London had he a placard on his back. + +27TH OCTOBER, 1855. The first continuous rain of the season commenced +during the night, the wind being from the N.E., as it always was on like +occasions at Kolobeng. The rainy season was thus begun, and I made ready +to go. The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of ground-nuts, by frying +them in cream with a little salt, as a sort of sandwiches for my +journey. This is considered food fit for a chief. Others ground the +maize from my own garden into meal, and Sekeletu pointed out Sekwebu +and Kanyata as the persons who should head the party intended to form +my company. Sekwebu had been captured by the Matebele when a little boy, +and the tribe in which he was a captive had migrated to the country near +Tete; he had traveled along both banks of the Zambesi several times, and +was intimately acquainted with the dialects spoken there. I found him +to be a person of great prudence and sound judgment, and his subsequent +loss at the Mauritius has been, ever since, a source of sincere regret. +He at once recommended our keeping well away from the river, on account +of the tsetse and rocky country, assigning also as a reason for it that +the Leeambye beyond the falls turns round to the N.N.E. Mamire, who +had married the mother of Sekeletu, on coming to bid me farewell before +starting, said, "You are now going among people who can not be trusted +because we have used them badly; but you go with a different message +from any they ever heard before, and Jesus will be with you and help +you, though among enemies; and if he carries you safely, and brings you +and Ma Robert back again, I shall say he has bestowed a great favor upon +me. May we obtain a path whereby we may visit and be visited by other +tribes, and by white men!" On telling him my fears that he was +still inclined to follow the old marauding system, which prevented +intercourse, and that he, from his influential position, was especially +guilty in the late forays, he acknowledged all rather too freely for my +taste, but seemed quite aware that the old system was far from right. +Mentioning my inability to pay the men who were to accompany me, he +replied, "A man wishes, of course, to appear among his friends, after a +long absence, with something of his own to show; the whole of the +ivory in the country is yours, so you must take as much as you can, +and Sekeletu will furnish men to carry it." These remarks of Mamire +are quoted literally, in order to show the state of mind of the most +influential in the tribe. And as I wish to give the reader a fair idea +of the other side of the question as well, it may be mentioned that +Motibe parried the imputation of the guilt of marauding by every +possible subterfuge. He would not admit that they had done wrong, and +laid the guilt of the wars in which the Makololo had engaged on the +Boers, the Matebele, and every other tribe except his own. When quite +a youth, Motibe's family had been attacked by a party of Boers; he hid +himself in an ant-eater's hole, but was drawn out and thrashed with +a whip of hippopotamus hide. When enjoined to live in peace, he would +reply, "Teach the Boers to lay down their arms first." Yet Motibe, on +other occasions, seemed to feel the difference between those who +are Christians indeed and those who are so only in name. In all our +discussions we parted good friends. + + + + +Chapter 26. + +Departure from Linyanti--A Thunder-storm--An Act of genuine Kindness-- +Fitted out a second time by the Makololo--Sail down the Leeambye-- +Sekote's Kotla and human Skulls; his Grave adorned with Elephants' +Tusks--Victoria Falls--Native Names--Columns of Vapor--Gigantic Crack-- +Wear of the Rocks--Shrines of the Barimo--"The Pestle of the Gods"-- +Second Visit to the Falls--Island Garden--Store-house Island-- +Native Diviners--A European Diviner--Makololo Foray--Marauder to be +fined--Mambari--Makololo wish to stop Mambari Slave-trading--Part +with Sekeletu--Night Traveling--River Lekone--Ancient fresh-water +Lakes--Formation of Lake Ngami--Native Traditions--Drainage of +the Great Valley--Native Reports of the Country to the +North--Maps--Moyara's Village--Savage Customs of the Batoka--A Chain +of Trading Stations--Remedy against Tsetse--"The Well of Joy"--First +Traces of Trade with Europeans--Knocking out the front Teeth--Facetious +Explanation--Degradation of the Batoka--Description of the Traveling +Party--Cross the Unguesi--Geological Formation--Ruins of a large Town-- +Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola--Abundance of Fruit. + + + +On the 3d of November we bade adieu to our friends at Linyanti, +accompanied by Sekeletu and about 200 followers. We were all fed at his +expense, and he took cattle for this purpose from every station we came +to. The principal men of the Makololo, Lebeole, Ntlarie, Nkwatlele, +etc., were also of the party. We passed through the patch of the tsetse, +which exists between Linyanti and Sesheke, by night. The majority of the +company went on by daylight, in order to prepare our beds. Sekeletu and +I, with about forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark. We +then went forward, and about ten o'clock it became so pitchy dark that +both horses and men were completely blinded. The lightning spread over +the sky, forming eight or ten branches at a time, in shape exactly like +those of a tree. This, with great volumes of sheet-lightning, enabled +us at times to see the whole country. The intervals between the flashes +were so densely dark as to convey the idea of stone-blindness. The +horses trembled, cried out, and turned round, as if searching for each +other, and every new flash revealed the men taking different directions, +laughing, and stumbling against each other. The thunder was of that +tremendously loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries, and which +friends from India have assured me is louder in Africa than any they +have ever heard elsewhere. Then came a pelting rain, which completed +our confusion. After the intense heat of the day, we soon felt miserably +cold, and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance. This had been +made by some people on their march; for this path is seldom without +numbers of strangers passing to and from the capital. My clothing having +gone on, I lay down on the cold ground, expecting to spend a miserable +night; but Sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket, and lay +uncovered himself. I was much affected by this act of genuine kindness. +If such men must perish by the advance of civilization, as certain races +of animals do before others, it is a pity. God grant that ere this time +comes they may receive that Gospel which is a solace for the soul in +death! + +While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve oxen--three of which +were accustomed to being ridden upon--hoes, and beads to purchase a +canoe when we should strike the Leeambye beyond the falls. He likewise +presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and did every thing +in his power to make me comfortable for the journey. I was entirely +dependent on his generosity, for the goods I originally brought from the +Cape were all expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west +coast. I there drew 70 Pounds of my salary, paid my men with it, and +purchased goods for the return journey to Linyanti. These being now all +expended, the Makololo again fitted me out, and sent me on to the east +coast. I was thus dependent on their bounty, and that of other Africans, +for the means of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again from Linyanti +to the east coast, and I feel deeply grateful to them. Coin would have +been of no benefit, for gold and silver are quite unknown. We were here +joined by Moriantsane, uncle of Sekeletu and head man of Sesheke, +and, entering canoes on the 13th, some sailed down the river to the +confluence of the Chobe, while others drove the cattle along the banks, +spending one night at Mparia, the island at the confluence of the Chobe, +which is composed of trap, having crystals of quartz in it coated with a +pellicle of green copper ore. Attempting to proceed down the river next +day, we were detained some hours by a strong east wind raising waves so +large as to threaten to swamp the canoes. The river here is very large +and deep, and contains two considerable islands, which from either bank +seem to be joined to the opposite shore. While waiting for the wind to +moderate, my friends related the traditions of these islands, and, +as usual, praised the wisdom of Sebituane in balking the Batoka, +who formerly enticed wandering tribes to them, and starved them, by +compelling the chiefs to remain by his side till all his cattle and +people were ferried over. The Barotse believe that at certain parts of +the river a tremendous monster lies hid, and that it will catch a canoe, +and hold it fast and motionless, in spite of the utmost exertions of the +paddlers. While near Nameta they even objected to pass a spot supposed +to be haunted, and proceeded along a branch instead of the main stream. +They believe that some of them possess a knowledge of the proper prayer +to lay the monster. It is strange to find fables similar to those of +the more northern nations even in the heart of Africa. Can they be the +vestiges of traditions of animals which no longer exist? The fossil +bones which lie in the calcareous tufa of this region will yet, we hope, +reveal the ancient fauna. + +Having descended about ten miles, we came to the island of Nampene, at +the beginning of the rapids, where we were obliged to leave the canoes +and proceed along the banks on foot. The next evening we slept opposite +the island of Chondo, and, then crossing the Lekone or Lekwine, early +the following morning were at the island of Sekote, called Kalai. This +Sekote was the last of the Batoka chiefs whom Sebituane rooted out. The +island is surrounded by a rocky shore and deep channels, through which +the river rushes with great force. Sekote, feeling secure in his island +home, ventured to ferry over the Matebele enemies of Sebituane. When +they had retired, Sebituane made one of those rapid marches which he +always adopted in every enterprise. He came down the Leeambye from +Naliele, sailing by day along the banks, and during the night in the +middle of the stream, to avoid the hippopotami. When he reached Kalai, +Sekote took advantage of the larger canoes they employ in the rapids, +and fled during the night to the opposite bank. Most of his people were +slain or taken captive, and the island has ever since been under the +Makololo. It is large enough to contain a considerable town. On the +northern side I found the kotla of the elder Sekote, garnished with +numbers of human skulls mounted on poles: a large heap of the crania of +hippopotami, the tusks untouched except by time, stood on one side. At a +short distance, under some trees, we saw the grave of Sekote, ornamented +with seventy large elephants' tusks planted round it with the points +turned inward, and there were thirty more placed over the resting-places +of his relatives. These were all decaying from the effects of the sun +and weather; but a few, which had enjoyed the shade, were in a pretty +good condition. I felt inclined to take a specimen of the tusks of the +hippopotami, as they were the largest I had ever seen, but feared that +the people would look upon me as a "resurrectionist" if I did, and +regard any unfavorable event which might afterward occur as a punishment +for the sacrilege. The Batoka believe that Sekote had a pot of medicine +buried here, which, when opened, would cause an epidemic in the country. +These tyrants acted much on the fears of their people. + +As this was the point from which we intended to strike off to the +northeast, I resolved on the following day to visit the falls of +Victoria, called by the natives Mosioatunya, or more anciently Shongwe. +Of these we had often heard since we came into the country; indeed, one +of the questions asked by Sebituane was, "Have you smoke that sounds in +your country?" They did not go near enough to examine them, but, viewing +them with awe at a distance, said, in reference to the vapor and noise, +"Mosi oa tunya" (smoke does sound there). It was previously called +Shongwe, the meaning of which I could not ascertain. The word for a +"pot" resembles this, and it may mean a seething caldron, but I am not +certain of it. Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were the +very first Europeans who ever visited the Zambesi in the centre of the +country, and that this is the connecting link between the known and +unknown portions of that river, I decided to use the same liberty as the +Makololo did, and gave the only English name I have affixed to any part +of the country. No better proof of previous ignorance of this river +could be desired than that an untraveled gentleman, who had spent a +great part of his life in the study of the geography of Africa, and knew +every thing written on the subject from the time of Ptolemy downward, +actually asserted in the "Athenaeum", while I was coming up the Red Sea, +that this magnificent river, the Leeambye, had "no connection with the +Zambesi, but flowed under the Kalahari Desert, and became lost;" and +"that, as all the old maps asserted, the Zambesi took its rise in the +very hills to which we have now come." This modest assertion smacks +exactly as if a native of Timbuctoo should declare that the "Thames" and +the "Pool" were different rivers, he having seen neither the one nor the +other. Leeambye and Zambesi mean the very same thing, viz., the RIVER. + +Sekeletu intended to accompany me, but, one canoe only having come +instead of the two he had ordered, he resigned it to me. After twenty +minutes' sail from Kalai we came in sight, for the first time, of the +columns of vapor appropriately called "smoke", rising at a distance of +five or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in +Africa. Five columns now arose, and, bending in the direction of the +wind, they seemed placed against a low ridge covered with trees; the +tops of the columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. +They were white below, and higher up became dark, so as to simulate +smoke very closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks +and islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation +of great variety of color and form. At the period of our visit several +trees were spangled over with blossoms. Trees have each their own +physiognomy. There, towering over all, stands the great burly baobab, +each of whose enormous arms would form the trunk of a large tree, beside +groups of graceful palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves +depicted on the sky, lend their beauty to the scene. As a hieroglyphic +they always mean "far from home", for one can never get over their +foreign air in a picture or landscape. The silvery mohonono, which in +the tropics is in form like the cedar of Lebanon, stands in pleasing +contrast with the dark color of the motsouri, whose cypress-form is +dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some trees +resemble the great spreading oak, others assume the character of our own +elms and chestnuts; but no one can imagine the beauty of the view +from any thing witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by +European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by +angels in their flight. The only want felt is that of mountains in the +background. The falls are bounded on three sides by ridges 300 or +400 feet in height, which are covered with forest, with the red soil +appearing among the trees. When about half a mile from the falls, I left +the canoe by which we had come down thus far, and embarked in a lighter +one, with men well acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing down +the centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused by many +jutting rocks, brought me to an island situated in the middle of the +river, and on the edge of the lip over which the water rolls. In coming +hither there was danger of being swept down by the streams which rushed +along on each side of the island; but the river was now low, and we +sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the water is high. But, +though we had reached the island, and were within a few yards of the +spot, a view from which would solve the whole problem, I believe that no +one could perceive where the vast body of water went; it seemed to +lose itself in the earth, the opposite lip of the fissure into which it +disappeared being only 80 feet distant. At least I did not comprehend it +until, creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent +which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambesi, and saw that +a stream of a thousand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet, and then +became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards. The +entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic rock from the +right to the left bank of the Zambesi, and then prolonged from the left +bank away through thirty or forty miles of hills. If one imagines +the Thames filled with low, tree-covered hills immediately beyond the +tunnel, extending as far as Gravesend, the bed of black basaltic rock +instead of London mud, and a fissure made therein from one end of +the tunnel to the other down through the keystones of the arch, and +prolonged from the left end of the tunnel through thirty miles of hills, +the pathway being 100 feet down from the bed of the river instead of +what it is, with the lips of the fissure from 80 to 100 feet apart, +then fancy the Thames leaping bodily into the gulf, and forced there to +change its direction, and flow from the right to the left bank, and then +rush boiling and roaring through the hills, he may have some idea of +what takes place at this, the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in +Africa. In looking down into the fissure on the right of the island, one +sees nothing but a dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the +spot, had two bright rainbows on it. (The sun was on the meridian, and +the declination about equal to the latitude of the place.) From this +cloud rushed up a great jet of vapor exactly like steam, and it mounted +200 or 300 feet high; there condensing, it changed its hue to that of +dark smoke, and came back in a constant shower, which soon wetted us to +the skin. This shower falls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, +and a few yards back from the lip there stands a straight hedge of +evergreen trees, whose leaves are always wet. From their roots a number +of little rills run back into the gulf, but, as they flow down the steep +wall there, the column of vapor, in its ascent, licks them up clean off +the rock, and away they mount again. They are constantly running down, +but never reach the bottom. + +On the left of the island we see the water at the bottom, a white +rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of the fissure, which +branches off near the left bank of the river. A piece of the rock has +fallen off a spot on the left of the island, and juts out from the water +below, and from it I judged the distance which the water falls to be +about 100 feet. The walls of this gigantic crack are perpendicular, and +composed of one homogeneous mass of rock. The edge of that side over +which the water falls is worn off two or three feet, and pieces have +fallen away, so as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That +over which the water does not fall is quite straight, except at the left +corner, where a rent appears, and a piece seems inclined to fall off. +Upon the whole, it is nearly in the state in which it was left at the +period of its formation. The rock is dark brown in color, except about +ten feet from the bottom, which is discolored by the annual rise of the +water to that or a greater height. On the left side of the island we +have a good view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns of +vapor to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick +unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gave the idea +of snow, a sight I had not seen for many a day. As it broke into (if I +may use the term) pieces of water, all rushing on in the same direction, +each gave off several rays of foam, exactly as bits of steel, when +burned in oxygen gas, give off rays of sparks. The snow-white sheet +seemed like myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each of +which left behind its nucleus rays of foam. I never saw the appearance +referred to noticed elsewhere. It seemed to be the effect of the mass of +water leaping at once clear of the rock, and but slowly breaking up into +spray. + +I have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapor ascending from this +strange abyss. They are evidently formed by the compression suffered by +the force of the water's own fall into an unyielding wedge-shaped space. +Of the five columns, two on the right and one on the left of the island +were the largest, and the streams which formed them seemed each to +exceed in size the falls of the Clyde at Stonebyres when that river is +in flood. This was the period of low water in the Leeambye; but, as +far as I could guess, there was a flow of five or six hundred yards of +water, which, at the edge of the fall, seemed at least three feet deep. +I write in the hope that others, more capable of judging distances than +myself, will visit the scene, and I state simply the impressions made on +my mind at the time. I thought, and do still think, the river above the +falls to be one thousand yards broad; but I am a poor judge of distances +on water, for I showed a naval friend what I supposed to be four hundred +yards in the Bay of Loanda, and, to my surprise, he pronounced it to be +nine hundred. I tried to measure the Leeambye with a strong thread, +the only line I had in my possession, but, when the men had gone two +or three hundred yards, they got into conversation, and did not hear +us shouting that the line had become entangled. By still going on they +broke it, and, being carried away down the stream, it was lost on a +snag. In vain I tried to bring to my recollection the way I had been +taught to measure a river by taking an angle with the sextant. That +I once knew it, and that it was easy, were all the lost ideas I could +recall, and they only increased my vexation. However, I measured the +river farther down by another plan, and then I discovered that the +Portuguese had measured it at Tete, and found it a little over one +thousand yards. At the falls it is as broad as at Tete, if not more so. +Whoever may come after me will not, I trust, find reason to say I have +indulged in exaggeration.* With respect to the drawing, it must be +borne in mind that it was composed from a rude sketch as viewed from the +island, which exhibited the columns of vapor only, and a ground +plan. The artist has given a good idea of the scene, but, by way of +explanation, he has shown more of the depth of the fissure than is +visible except by going close to the edge. The left-hand column, and +that farthest off, are the smallest, and all ought to have been a little +more tapering at the tops. + + * The river is about one mile (1.6 km) wide at the falls, and + plunges over 350 feet at the centre. Livingstone greatly + underestimated both distances.--A. L., 1997. + +The fissure is said by the Makololo to be very much deeper farther to +the eastward; there is one part at which the walls are so sloping that +people accustomed to it can go down by descending in a sitting position. +The Makololo on one occasion, pursuing some fugitive Batoka, saw them, +unable to stop the impetus of their flight at the edge, literally dashed +to pieces at the bottom. They beheld the stream like a "white cord" at +the bottom, and so far down (probably 300 feet) that they became giddy, +and were fain to go away holding on to the ground. + +Now, though the edge of the rock over which the river falls does not +show wearing more than three feet, and there is no appearance of the +opposite wall being worn out at the bottom in the parts exposed to view, +yet it is probable that, where it has flowed beyond the walls, the sides +of the fissure may have given way, and the parts out of sight may be +broader than the "white cord" on the surface. There may even be some +ramifications of the fissure, which take a portion of the stream quite +beneath the rocks; but this I did not learn. + +If we take the want of much wear on the lip of hard basaltic rock as of +any value, the period when this rock was riven is not geologically very +remote. I regretted the want of proper means of measuring and marking +its width at the falls, in order that, at some future time, the question +whether it is progressive or not might be tested. It seemed as if +a palm-tree could be laid across it from the island. And if it is +progressive, as it would mark a great natural drainage being effected, +it might furnish a hope that Africa will one day become a healthy +continent. It is, at any rate, very much changed in respect to its lakes +within a comparatively recent period. + +At three spots near these falls, one of them the island in the middle, +on which we were, three Batoka chiefs offered up prayers and sacrifices +to the Barimo. They chose their places of prayer within the sound of the +roar of the cataract, and in sight of the bright bows in the cloud. +They must have looked upon the scene with awe. Fear may have induced +the selection. The river itself is to them mysterious. The words of the +canoe-song are, + + "The Leeambye! Nobody knows + Whence it comes and whither it goes." + +The play of colors of the double iris on the cloud, seen by them +elsewhere only as the rainbow, may have led them to the idea that this +was the abode of Deity. Some of the Makololo, who went with me near to +Gonye, looked upon the same sign with awe. When seen in the heavens +it is named "motse oa barimo"--the pestle of the gods. Here they could +approach the emblem, and see it stand steadily above the blustering +uproar below--a type of Him who sits supreme--alone unchangeable, though +ruling over all changing things. But, not aware of His true character, +they had no admiration of the beautiful and good in their bosoms. They +did not imitate His benevolence, for they were a bloody, imperious crew, +and Sebituane performed a noble service in the expulsion from their +fastnesses of these cruel "Lords of the Isles". + +Having feasted my eyes long on the beautiful sight, I returned to my +friends at Kalai, and saying to Sekeletu that he had nothing else worth +showing in his country, his curiosity was excited to visit it the next +day. I returned with the intention of taking a lunar observation from +the island itself, but the clouds were unfavorable, consequently all my +determinations of position refer to Kalai. (Lat. 17d 51' 54" S., long. +25d 41' E.) Sekeletu acknowledged to feeling a little nervous at the +probability* of being sucked into the gulf before reaching the island. +His companions amused themselves by throwing stones down, and wondered +to see them diminishing in size, and even disappearing, before they +reached the water at the bottom. + + * In modern American English, the word "possibility" is more + appropriate here, and elsewhere in the text where + "probability" is used.--A. L., 1997. + +I had another object in view in my return to the island. I observed that +it was covered with trees, the seeds of which had probably come down +with the stream from the distant north, and several of which I had seen +nowhere else, and every now and then the wind wafted a little of the +condensed vapor over it, and kept the soil in a state of moisture, +which caused a sward of grass, growing as green as on an English lawn. +I selected a spot--not too near the chasm, for there the constant +deposition of the moisture nourished numbers of polypi of a mushroom +shape and fleshy consistence, but somewhat back--and made a little +garden. I there planted about a hundred peach and apricot stones, and a +quantity of coffee-seeds. I had attempted fruit-trees before, but, +when left in charge of my Makololo friends, they were always allowed to +wither, after having vegetated, by being forgotten. I bargained for +a hedge with one of the Makololo, and if he is faithful, I have great +hopes of Mosioatunya's abilities as a nursery-man. My only source of +fear is the hippopotami, whose footprints I saw on the island. When the +garden was prepared, I cut my initials on a tree, and the date 1855. +This was the only instance in which I indulged in this piece of vanity. +The garden stands in front, and, were there no hippopotami, I have no +doubt but this will be the parent of all the gardens which may yet be in +this new country. We then went up to Kalai again. + +On passing up we had a view of the hut on the island where my goods had +lain so long in safety. It was under a group of palm-trees, and Sekeletu +informed me that, so fully persuaded were most of the Makololo of the +presence of dangerous charms in the packages, that, had I not returned +to tell them the contrary, they never would have been touched. Some of +the diviners had been so positive in their decisions on the point, +that the men who lifted a bag thought they felt a live kid in it. The +diviners always quote their predictions when they happen to tally with +the event. They declared that the whole party which went to Loanda had +perished; and as I always quoted the instances in which they failed, +many of them refused to throw the "bola" (instruments of divination) +when I was near. This was a noted instance of failure. It would have +afforded me equal if not greater pleasure to have exposed the failure, +if such it had been, of the European diviner whose paper lay a whole +year on this island, but I was obliged to confess that he had been +successful with his "bola", and could only comfort myself with the idea +that, though Sir Roderick Murchison's discourse had lain so long within +sight and sound of the magnificent falls, I had been "cut out" by no one +in their discovery. + +I saw the falls at low water, and the columns of vapor when five or six +miles distant. When the river is full, or in flood, the columns, it +is said, can be seen ten miles off, and the sound is quite distinct +somewhat below Kalai, or about an equal distance. No one can then go +to the island in the middle. The next visitor must bear these points in +mind in comparing his description with mine. + +We here got information of a foray which had been made by a Makololo man +in the direction we were going. This instance of marauding was so much +in accordance with the system which has been pursued in this country +that I did not wonder at it. But the man had used Sekeletu's name as +having sent him, and, the proof being convincing, he would undoubtedly +be fined. As that would be the first instance of a fine being levied +for marauding, I looked upon it as the beginning of a better state of +things. In tribes which have been accustomed to cattle-stealing, the act +is not considered immoral in the way that theft is. Before I knew the +language well, I said to a chief, "You stole the cattle of so and so." +"No, I did not steal them," was the reply, "I only LIFTED them." The +word "gapa" is identical with the Highland term for the same deed. + +Another point came to our notice here. Some Mambari had come down thus +far, and induced the Batoka to sell a very large tusk which belonged +to Sekeletu for a few bits of cloth. They had gone among the Batoka +who need hoes, and, having purchased some of these from the people near +Sesheke, induced the others living farther east to sell both ivory and +children. They would not part with children for clothing or beads, but +agriculture with wooden hoes is so laborious, that the sight of the hoes +prevailed. The Makololo proposed to knock the Mambari on the head as +the remedy the next time they came; but on my proposing that they should +send hoes themselves, and thereby secure the ivory in a quiet way, all +approved highly of the idea, and Pitsane and Mohorisi expatiated on the +value of the ivory, their own willingness to go and sell it at Loanda, +and the disgust with which the Mambari whom we met in Angola had looked +upon their attempt to reach the proper market. If nothing untoward +happens, I think there is a fair prospect of the trade in slaves being +abolished in a natural way in this quarter, Pitsane and Mohorisi having +again expressed their willingness to go away back to Loanda if Sekeletu +would give them orders. This was the more remarkable, as both have +plenty of food and leisure at home. + +20TH NOVEMBER. Sekeletu and his large party having conveyed me thus far, +and furnished me with a company of 114 men to carry the tusks to the +coast, we bade adieu to the Makololo, and proceeded northward to the +Lekone. The country around is very beautiful, and was once well peopled +with Batoka, who possessed enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came +in former times, with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to +this spot, a general rising took place of the Batoka through the whole +country, in order to "eat him up"; but his usual success followed him, +and, dispersing them, the Makololo obtained so many cattle that they +could not take any note of the herds of sheep and goats. The tsetse +has been brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly cattle +abounded. This obliged us to travel the first few stages by night. We +could not well detect the nature of the country in the dim moonlight; +the path, however, seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have +been the ancient bed of the Zambesi before the fissure was made. The +Lekone now winds in it in an opposite direction to that in which the +ancient river must have flowed. + +Both the Lekone and Unguesi flow back toward the centre of the country, +and in an opposite direction to that of the main stream. It was plain, +then, that we were ascending the farther we went eastward. The level of +the lower portion of the Lekone is about two hundred feet above that +of the Zambesi at the falls, and considerably more than the altitude +of Linyanti; consequently, when the river flowed along this ancient +bed instead of through the rent, the whole country between this and the +ridge beyond Libebe westward, Lake Ngami and the Zouga southward, and +eastward beyond Nchokotsa, was one large fresh-water lake. There is +abundant evidence of the existence and extent of this vast lake in +the longitudes indicated, and stretching from 17 Deg. to 21 Deg. south +latitude. The whole of this space is paved with a bed of tufa, more +or less soft, according as it is covered with soil, or left exposed +to atmospheric influences. Wherever ant-eaters make deep holes in this +ancient bottom, fresh-water shells are thrown out, identical with those +now existing in the Lake Ngami and the Zambesi. The Barotse valley was +another lake of a similar nature; and one existed beyond Masiko, and a +fourth near the Orange River. The whole of these lakes were let out by +means of cracks or fissures made in the subtending sides by the upheaval +of the country. The fissure made at the Victoria Falls let out the water +of this great valley, and left a small patch in what was probably +its deepest portion, and is now called Lake Ngami. The Falls of Gonye +furnished an outlet to the lake of the Barotse valley, and so of the +other great lakes of remote times. The Congo also finds its way to the +sea through a narrow fissure, and so does the Orange River in the west; +while other rents made in the eastern ridge, as the Victoria Falls and +those to the east of Tanganyenka, allowed the central waters to drain +eastward. All the African lakes hitherto discovered are shallow, in +consequence of being the mere 'residua' of very much larger ancient +bodies of water. There can be no doubt that this continent was, in +former times, very much more copiously supplied with water than at +present, but a natural process of drainage has been going on for ages. +Deep fissures are made, probably by the elevation of the land, proofs +of which are seen in modern shells imbedded in marly tufa all round the +coast-line. Whether this process of desiccation is as rapid throughout +the continent as, in a letter to the late Dean Buckland, in 1843, I +showed to have been the case in the Bechuana country, it is not for me +to say; but, though there is a slight tradition of the waters having +burst through the low hills south of the Barotse, there is none of a +sudden upheaval accompanied by an earthquake. The formation of the +crack of Mosioatunya is perhaps too ancient for that; yet, although +information of any remarkable event is often transmitted in the native +names, and they even retain a tradition which looks like the story of +Solomon and the harlots, there is not a name like Tom Earthquake or Sam +Shake-the-ground in the whole country. They have a tradition which may +refer to the building of the Tower of Babel, but it ends in the bold +builders getting their crowns cracked by the fall of the scaffolding; +and that they came out of a cave called "Loey" (Noe?) in company with +the beasts, and all point to it in one direction, viz., the N.N.E. Loey, +too, is an exception in the language, as they use masculine instead of +neuter pronouns to it. + +If we take a glance back at the great valley, the form the rivers have +taken imparts the idea of a lake slowly drained out, for they have cut +out for themselves beds exactly like what we may see in the soft mud +of a shallow pool of rain-water, when that is let off by a furrow. +This idea would probably not strike a person on coming first into the +country, but more extensive acquaintance with the river system certainly +would convey the impression. None of the rivers in the valley of the +Leeambye have slopes down to their beds. Indeed, many parts are much +like the Thames at the Isle of Dogs, only the Leeambye has to rise +twenty or thirty feet before it can overflow some of its meadows. The +rivers have each a bed of low water--a simple furrow cut sharply out +of the calcareous tufa which lined the channel of the ancient lake--and +another of inundation. When the beds of inundation are filled, they +assume the appearance of chains of lakes. When the Clyde fills the holms +("haughs") above Bothwell Bridge and retires again into its channel, +it resembles the river we are speaking of, only here there are no high +lands sloping down toward the bed of inundation, for the greater part of +the region is not elevated fifty feet above them. Even the rocky banks +of the Leeambye below Gonye, and the ridges bounding the Barotse valley, +are not more than two or three hundred feet in altitude over the general +dead level. Many of the rivers are very tortuous in their course, the +Chobe and Simah particularly so; and, if we may receive the testimony of +the natives, they form what anatomists call 'anastamosis', or a network +of rivers. Thus, for instance, they assured me that if they go up the +Simah in a canoe, they can enter the Chobe, and descend that river to +the Leeambye; or they may go up the Kama and come down the Simah; and so +in the case of the Kafue. It is reputed to be connected in this way +with the Leeambye in the north, and to part with the Loangwa; and the +Makololo went from the one into the other in canoes. And even though the +interlacing may not be quite to the extent believed by the natives, +the country is so level and the rivers so tortuous that I see no +improbability in the conclusion that here is a network of waters of a +very peculiar nature. The reason why I am disposed to place a certain +amount of confidence in the native reports is this: when Mr. Oswell and +I discovered the Zambesi in the centre of the continent in 1851, being +unable to ascend it at the time ourselves, we employed the natives to +draw a map embodying their ideas of that river. We then sent the native +map home with the same view that I now mention their ideas of the +river system, namely, in order to be an aid to others in farther +investigations. When I was able to ascend the Leeambye to 14 Deg. south, +and subsequently descend it, I found, after all the care I could bestow, +that the alterations I was able to make in the original native plan were +very trifling. The general idea their map gave was wonderfully accurate; +and now I give, in the larger map appended, their views of the other +rivers, in the hope that they may prove helpful to any traveler who may +pursue the investigation farther. + +24TH. We remained a day at the village of Moyara. Here the valley in +which the Lekone flows trends away to the eastward, while our course is +more to the northeast. The country is rocky and rough, the soil +being red sand, which is covered with beautiful green trees, yielding +abundance of wild fruits. The father of Moyara was a powerful chief, but +the son now sits among the ruins of the town, with four or five wives +and very few people. At his hamlet a number of stakes are planted in +the ground, and I counted fifty-four human skulls hung on their points. +These were Matebele, who, unable to approach Sebituane on the island of +Loyela, had returned sick and famishing. Moyara's father took advantage +of their reduced condition, and after putting them to death, mounted +their heads in the Batoka fashion. The old man who perpetrated this deed +now lies in the middle of his son's huts, with a lot of rotten ivory +over his grave. One can not help feeling thankful that the reign of such +wretches is over. They inhabited the whole of this side of the country, +and were probably the barrier to the extension of the Portuguese +commerce in this direction. When looking at these skulls, I remarked to +Moyara that many of them were those of mere boys. He assented readily, +and pointed them out as such. I asked why his father had killed boys. +"To show his fierceness," was the answer. "Is it fierceness to kill +boys?" "Yes; they had no business here." When I told him that this +probably would insure his own death if the Matebele came again, he +replied, "When I hear of their coming I shall hide the bones." He was +evidently proud of these trophies of his father's ferocity, and I was +assured by other Batoka that few strangers ever returned from a visit +to this quarter. If a man wished to curry favor with a Batoka chief, +he ascertained when a stranger was about to leave, and waylaid him at a +distance from the town, and when he brought his head back to the chief, +it was mounted as a trophy, the different chiefs vieing with each other +as to which should mount the greatest number of skulls in his village. + +If, as has been asserted, the Portuguese ever had a chain of trading +stations across the country from Caconda to Tete, it must have passed +through these people; but the total ignorance of the Zambesi flowing +from north to south in the centre of the country, and the want of +knowledge of the astonishing falls of Victoria, which excite the wonder +of even the natives, together with the absence of any tradition of such +a chain of stations, compel me to believe that they existed only on +paper. This conviction is strengthened by the fact that when a late +attempt was made to claim the honor of crossing the continent for the +Portuguese, the only proof advanced was the journey of two black traders +formerly mentioned, adorned with the name of "Portuguese". If a chain of +stations had existed, a few hundred names of the same sort might easily +have been brought forward; and such is the love of barter among all the +central Africans, that, had there existed a market for ivory, its value +would have become known, and even that on the graves of the chiefs would +not have been safe. + +When about to leave Moyara on the 25th, he brought a root which, when +pounded and sprinkled over the oxen, is believed to disgust the tsetse, +so that it flies off without sucking the blood. He promised to show me +the plant or tree if I would give him an ox; but, as we were traveling, +and could not afford the time required for the experiment, so as not to +be cheated (as I had too often been by my medical friends), I deferred +the investigation till I returned. It is probably but an evanescent +remedy, and capable of rendering the cattle safe during one night only. +Moyara is now quite a dependent of the Makololo, and my new party, not +being thoroughly drilled, forced him to carry a tusk for them. When I +relieved him, he poured forth a shower of thanks at being allowed to go +back to sleep beneath his skulls. + +Next day we came to Namilanga, or "The Well of Joy". It is a small well +dug beneath a very large fig-tree, the shade of which renders the water +delightfully cool. The temperature through the day was 104 Deg. in the +shade and 94 Deg. after sunset, but the air was not at all oppressive. +This well received its name from the fact that, in former times, +marauding parties, in returning with cattle, sat down here and were +regaled with boyaloa, music, and the lullilooing of the women from the +adjacent towns. + +All the surrounding country was formerly densely peopled, though now +desolate and still. The old head man of the place told us that his +father once went to Bambala, where white traders lived, when our +informant was a child, and returned when he had become a boy of about +ten years. He went again, and returned when it was time to knock out +his son's teeth. As that takes place at the age of puberty, he must have +spent at least five years in each journey. He added that many who went +there never returned, because they liked that country better than this. +They had even forsaken their wives and children; and children had been +so enticed and flattered by the finery bestowed upon them there, that +they had disowned their parents and adopted others. The place to which +they had gone, which they named Bambala, was probably Dambarari, which +was situated close to Zumbo. This was the first intimation we had of +intercourse with the whites. The Barotse, and all the other tribes in +the central valley, have no such tradition as this, nor have either +the one or the other any account of a trader's visit to them in ancient +times. + +All the Batoka tribes follow the curious custom of knocking out the +upper front teeth at the age of puberty. This is done by both sexes; and +though the under teeth, being relieved from the attrition of the upper, +grow long and somewhat bent out, and thereby cause the under lip +to protrude in a most unsightly way, no young woman thinks herself +accomplished until she has got rid of the upper incisors. This custom +gives all the Batoka an uncouth, old-man-like appearance. Their laugh is +hideous, yet they are so attached to it that even Sebituane was unable +to eradicate the practice. He issued orders that none of the children +living under him should be subjected to the custom by their parents, and +disobedience to his mandates was usually punished with severity; but, +notwithstanding this, the children would appear in the streets without +their incisors, and no one would confess to the deed. When questioned +respecting the origin of this practice, the Batoka reply that their +object is to be like oxen, and those who retain their teeth they +consider to resemble zebras. Whether this is the true reason or not, it +is difficult to say; but it is noticeable that the veneration for oxen +which prevails in many tribes should here be associated with hatred to +the zebra, as among the Bakwains; that this operation is performed at +the same age that circumcision is in other tribes; and that here that +ceremony is unknown. The custom is so universal that a person who has +his teeth is considered ugly, and occasionally, when the Batoka borrowed +my looking-glass, the disparaging remark would be made respecting boys +or girls who still retained their teeth, "Look at the great teeth!" Some +of the Makololo give a more facetious explanation of the custom: they +say that the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten her husband's +hand, he, in revenge, ordered her front teeth to be knocked out, and all +the men in the tribe followed his example; but this does not explain why +they afterward knocked out their own. + +The Batoka of the Zambesi are generally very dark in color, and very +degraded and negro-like in appearance, while those who live on the high +lands we are now ascending are frequently of the color of coffee and +milk. We had a large number of the Batoka of Mokwine in our party, sent +by Sekeletu to carry his tusks. Their greater degradation was probably +caused by the treatment of their chiefs--the barbarians of the islands. +I found them more difficult to manage than any of the rest of my +companions, being much less reasonable and impressible than the others. +My party consisted of the head men aforementioned, Sekwebu, and Kanyata. +We were joined at the falls by another head man of the Makololo, named +Monahin, in command of the Batoka. We had also some of the Banajoa under +Mosisinyane, and, last of all, a small party of Bashubia and Barotse +under Tuba Mokoro, which had been furnished by Sekeletu because of +their ability to swim. They carried their paddles with them, and, as the +Makololo suggested, were able to swim over the rivers by night and steal +canoes, if the inhabitants should be so unreasonable as to refuse to +lend them. These different parties assorted together into messes; any +orders were given through their head man, and when food was obtained +he distributed it to the mess. Each party knew its own spot in the +encampment; and as this was always placed so that our backs should be to +the east, the direction from whence the prevailing winds came, no time +was lost in fixing the sheds of our encampment. They each took it in +turn to pull grass to make my bed, so I lay luxuriously. + +NOVEMBER 26TH. As the oxen could only move at night, in consequence of +a fear that the buffaloes in this quarter might have introduced the +tsetse, I usually performed the march by day on foot, while some of +the men brought on the oxen by night. On coming to the villages under +Marimba, an old man, we crossed the Unguesi, a rivulet which, like the +Lekone, runs backward. It falls into the Leeambye a little above +the commencement of the rapids. The stratified gneiss, which is the +underlying rock of much of this part of the country, dips toward the +centre of the continent, but the strata are often so much elevated as to +appear nearly on their edges. Rocks of augitic trap are found in various +positions on it; the general strike is north and south; but when the +gneiss was first seen, near to the basalt of the falls, it was easterly +and westerly, and the dip toward the north, as if the eruptive force of +the basalt had placed it in that position. + +We passed the remains of a very large town, which, from the only +evidence of antiquity afforded by ruins in this country, must have been +inhabited for a long period; the millstones of gneiss, trap, and +quartz were worn down two and a half inches perpendicularly. The ivory +grave-stones soon rot away. Those of Moyara's father, who must have +died not more than a dozen years ago, were crumbling into powder; and +we found this to be generally the case all over the Batoka country. The +region around is pretty well covered with forest; but there is abundance +of open pasturage, and, as we are ascending in altitude, we find the +grass to be short, and altogether unlike the tangled herbage of the +Barotse valley. + +It is remarkable that we now meet with the same trees we saw in +descending toward the west coast. A kind of sterculia, which is the +most common tree at Loanda, and the baobab, flourish here; and the tree +called moshuka, which we found near Tala Mungongo, was now yielding +its fruit, which resembles small apples. The people brought it to us in +large quantities: it tastes like a pear, but has a harsh rind, and four +large seeds within. We found prodigious quantities of this fruit as +we went along. The tree attains the height of 15 or 20 feet, and has +leaves, hard and glossy, as large as one's hand. The tree itself is +never found on the lowlands, but is mentioned with approbation at the +end of the work of Bowditch. My men almost lived upon the fruit for many +days. + +The rains had fallen only partially: in many parts the soil was +quite dry and the leaves drooped mournfully, but the fruit-trees are +unaffected by a drought, except when it happens at the time of their +blossoming. The Batoka of my party declared that no one ever dies of +hunger here. We obtained baskets of maneko, a curious fruit, with a +horny rind, split into five pieces: these sections, when chewed, are +full of a fine glutinous matter, and sweet like sugar. The seeds are +covered with a yellow silky down, and are not eaten: the entire fruit +is about the size of a walnut. We got also abundance of the motsouri +and mamosho. We saw the Batoka eating the beans called nju, which are +contained in a large square pod; also the pulp between the seeds of nux +vomica, and the motsintsela. Other fruits become ripe at other seasons, +as the motsikiri, which yields an oil, and is a magnificent tree, +bearing masses of dark evergreen leaves; so that, from the general +plenty, one can readily believe the statement made by the Batoka. We +here saw trees allowed to stand in gardens, and some of the Batoka even +plant them, a practice seen nowhere else among natives. A species of +leucodendron abounds. When we meet with it on a spot on which no rain +has yet fallen, we see that the young ones twist their leaves round +during the heat of the day, so that the edge only is exposed to the rays +of the sun; they have then a half twist on the petiole. The acacias in +the same circumstances, and also the mopane ('Bauhania'), fold their +leaves together, and, by presenting the smallest possible surface to the +sun, simulate the eucalypti of Australia. + + + + +Chapter 27. + +Low Hills--Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism--The Plasterer and +its Chloroform--White Ants; their Usefulness--Mutokwane-smoking; +its Effects--Border Territory--Healthy Table-lands--Geological +Formation--Cicadae--Trees--Flowers--River Kalomo--Physical +Conformation of Country--Ridges, sanatoria--A wounded Buffalo +assisted--Buffalo-bird--Rhinoceros-bird--Leaders of Herds--The +Honey-guide--The White Mountain--Mozuma River--Sebituane's old +Home--Hostile Village--Prophetic Phrensy--Food of the Elephant-- +Ant-hills--Friendly Batoka--Clothing despised--Method of Salutation-- +Wild Fruits--The Captive released--Longings for Peace--Pingola's +Conquests--The Village of Monze--Aspect of the Country--Visit from the +Chief Monze and his Wife--Central healthy Locations--Friendly Feelings +of the People in reference to a white Resident--Fertility of the +Soil--Bashukulompo Mode of dressing their Hair--Gratitude of the +Prisoner we released--Kindness and Remarks of Monze's Sister--Dip of +the Rocks--Vegetation--Generosity of the Inhabitants--Their Anxiety for +Medicine--Hooping-cough--Birds and Rain. + + + +NOVEMBER 27TH. Still at Marimba's. In the adjacent country palms abound, +but none of that species which yields the oil; indeed, that is met +with only near the coast. There are numbers of flowers and bulbs +just shooting up from the soil. The surface is rough, and broken into +gullies; and, though the country is parched, it has not that appearance, +so many trees having put forth their fresh green leaves at the time the +rains ought to have come. Among the rest stands the mola, with its dark +brownish-green color and spreading oak-like form. In the distance there +are ranges of low hills. On the north we have one called Kanjele, and to +the east that of Kaonka, to which we proceed to-morrow. We have made a +considerable detour to the north, both on account of our wish to avoid +the tsetse and to visit the people. Those of Kaonka are the last Batoka +we shall meet, in friendship with the Makololo. + +Walking down to the forest, after telling these poor people, for the +first time in their lives, that the Son of God had so loved them as to +come down from heaven to save them, I observed many regiments of black +soldier-ants returning from their marauding expeditions. These I have +often noticed before in different parts of the country; and as we had, +even at Kolobeng, an opportunity of observing their habits, I may give a +short account of them here. They are black, with a slight tinge of gray, +about half an inch in length, and on the line of march appear three or +four abreast; when disturbed, they utter a distinct hissing or chirping +sound. They follow a few leaders who never carry any thing, and they +seem to be guided by a scent left on the path by the leaders; for, +happening once to throw the water from my basin behind a bush where +I was dressing, it lighted on the path by which a regiment had passed +before I began my toilette, and when they returned they were totally +at a loss to find the way home, though they continued searching for +it nearly half an hour. It was found only by one making a long circuit +round the wetted spot. The scent may have indicated also the propriety +of their going in one direction only. If a handful of earth is thrown +on the path at the middle of the regiment, either on its way home or +abroad, those behind it are completely at a loss as to their farther +progress. Whatever it may be that guides them, they seem only to know +that they are not to return, for they come up to the handful of earth, +but will not cross it, though not a quarter of an inch high. They wheel +round and regain their path again, but never think of retreating to the +nest, or to the place where they have been stealing. After a quarter of +an hour's confusion and hissing, one may make a circuit of a foot round +the earth, and soon all follow in that roundabout way. When on their +way to attack the abode of the white ants, the latter may be observed +rushing about in a state of great perturbation. The black leaders, +distinguished from the rest by their greater size, especially in the +region of the sting, then seize the white ants one by one, and inflict +a sting, which seems to inject a portion of fluid similar in effect to +chloroform, as it renders them insensible, but not dead, and only able +to move one or two front legs. As the leaders toss them on one side, the +rank and file seize them and carry them off. + +One morning I saw a party going forth on what has been supposed to be a +slave-hunting expedition. They came to a stick, which, being inclosed in +a white-ant gallery, I knew contained numbers of this insect; but I +was surprised to see the black soldiers passing without touching it. I +lifted up the stick and broke a portion of the gallery, and then laid +it across the path in the middle of the black regiment. The white ants, +when uncovered, scampered about with great celerity, hiding themselves +under the leaves, but attracted little attention from the black +marauders till one of the leaders caught them, and, applying his sting, +laid them in an instant on one side in a state of coma; the others then +promptly seized them and rushed off. On first observing these marauding +insects at Kolobeng, I had the idea, imbibed from a work of no less +authority than Brougham's Paley, that they seized the white ants in +order to make them slaves; but, having rescued a number of captives, I +placed them aside, and found that they never recovered from the state of +insensibility into which they had been thrown by the leaders. I supposed +then that the insensibility had been caused by the soldiers holding the +necks of the white ants too tightly with their mandibles, as that is +the way they seize them; but even the pupae which I took from the +soldier-ants, though placed in a favorable temperature, never became +developed. In addition to this, if any one examines the orifice by which +the black ant enters his barracks, he will always find a little heap of +hard heads and legs of white ants, showing that these black ruffians are +a grade lower than slave-stealers, being actually cannibals. Elsewhere I +have seen a body of them removing their eggs from a place in which they +were likely to be flooded by the rains; I calculated their numbers to be +1260; they carried their eggs a certain distance, then laid them down, +when others took them and carried them farther on. Every ant in the +colony seemed to be employed in this laborious occupation, yet there was +not a white slave-ant among them. One cold morning I observed a band of +another species of black ant returning each with a captive; there could +be no doubt of their cannibal propensities, for the "brutal soldiery" +had already deprived the white ants of their legs. The fluid in the +stings of this species is of an intensely acid taste. + +I had often noticed the stupefaction produced by the injection of a +fluid from the sting of certain insects before. It is particularly +observable in a hymenopterous insect called the "plasterer" ('Pelopaeus +Eckloni'), which in his habits resembles somewhat the mason-bee. It is +about an inch and a quarter in length, jet black in color, and may be +observed coming into houses, carrying in its fore legs a pellet of soft +plaster about the size of a pea. When it has fixed upon a convenient +spot for its dwelling, it forms a cell about the same length as its +body, plastering the walls so as to be quite thin and smooth inside. +When this is finished, all except a round hole, it brings seven or eight +caterpillars or spiders, each of which is rendered insensible, but not +killed, by the fluid from its sting. These it deposits in the cell, and +then one of its own larvae, which, as it grows, finds food quite +fresh. The insects are in a state of coma, but the presence of vitality +prevents putridity, or that drying up which would otherwise take place +in this climate. By the time the young insect is full grown and its +wings completely developed, the food is done. It then pierces the wall +of its cell at the former door, or place last filled up by its parent, +flies off, and begins life for itself. The plasterer is a most useful +insect, as it acts as a check on the inordinate increase of caterpillars +and spiders. It may often be seen with a caterpillar or even a cricket +much larger than itself, but they lie perfectly still after the +injection of chloroform, and the plasterer, placing a row of legs on +each side of the body, uses both legs and wings in trailing the +victim along. The fluid in each case is, I suppose, designed to cause +insensibility, and likewise act as an antiseptic, the death of the +victims being without pain. + +Without these black soldier-ants the country would be overrun by the +white ants; they are so extremely prolific, and nothing can exceed the +energy with which they work. They perform a most important part in the +economy of nature by burying vegetable matter as quickly beneath the +soil as the ferocious red ant does dead animal substances. The white ant +keeps generally out of sight, and works under galleries constructed +by night to screen them from the observation of birds. At some given +signal, however, I never could ascertain what, they rush out by +hundreds, and the sound of their mandibles cutting grass into lengths +may be heard like a gentle wind murmuring through the leaves of the +trees. They drag these pieces to the doors of their abodes, and after +some hours' toil leave off work, and many of the bits of grass may +be seen collected around the orifice. They continue out of sight for +perhaps a month, but they are never idle. On one occasion, a good bundle +of grass was laid down for my bed on a spot which was quite smooth and +destitute of plants. The ants at once sounded the call to a good supply +of grass. I heard them incessantly nibbling and carrying away all that +night; and they continued all next day (Sunday), and all that night too, +with unabated energy. They had thus been thirty-six hours at it, and +seemed as fresh as ever. In some situations, if we remained a day, they +devoured the grass beneath my mat, and would have eaten that too had we +not laid down more grass. At some of their operations they beat time in +a curious manner. Hundreds of them are engaged in building a large tube, +and they wish to beat it smooth. At a signal, they all give three or +four energetic beats on the plaster in unison. It produces a sound like +the dropping of rain off a bush when touched. These insects are the +chief agents employed in forming a fertile soil. But for their labors, +the tropical forests, bad as they are now with fallen trees, would be a +thousand times worse. They would be impassable on account of the heaps +of dead vegetation lying on the surface, and emitting worse effluvia +than the comparatively small unburied collections do now. When one +looks at the wonderful adaptations throughout creation, and the varied +operations carried on with such wisdom and skill, the idea of second +causes looks clumsy. We are viewing the direct handiwork of Him who is +the one and only Power in the universe; wonderful in counsel; in whom we +all live, and move, and have our being. + +The Batoka of these parts are very degraded in their appearance, and +are not likely to improve, either physically or mentally, while so much +addicted to smoking the mutokwane ('Cannabis sativa'). They like its +narcotic effects, though the violent fit of coughing which follows a +couple of puffs of smoke appears distressing, and causes a feeling of +disgust in the spectator. This is not diminished on seeing the usual +practice of taking a mouthful of water, and squirting it out together +with the smoke, then uttering a string of half-incoherent sentences, +usually in self-praise. This pernicious weed is extensively used in +all the tribes of the interior. It causes a species of phrensy, and +Sebituane's soldiers, on coming in sight of their enemies, sat down and +smoked it, in order that they might make an effective onslaught. I was +unable to prevail on Sekeletu and the young Makololo to forego its use, +although they can not point to an old man in the tribe who has been +addicted to this indulgence. I believe it was the proximate cause of +Sebituane's last illness, for it sometimes occasions pneumonia. Never +having tried it, I can not describe the pleasurable effects it is said +to produce, but the hashish in use among the Turks is simply an extract +of the same plant, and that, like opium, produces different effects on +different individuals. Some view every thing as if looking in through +the wide end of a telescope, and others, in passing over a straw, lift +up their feet as if about to cross the trunk of a tree. The Portuguese +in Angola have such a belief in its deleterious effects that the use of +it by a slave is considered a crime. + +NOVEMBER 28TH. The inhabitants of the last of Kaonka's villages +complained of being plundered by the independent Batoka. The tribes in +front of this are regarded by the Makololo as in a state of rebellion. +I promised to speak to the rebels on the subject, and enjoined on Kaonka +the duty of giving them no offense. According to Sekeletu's order, +Kaonka gave us the tribute of maize-corn and ground-nuts, which would +otherwise have gone to Linyanti. This had been done at every village, +and we thereby saved the people the trouble of a journey to the capital. +My own Batoka had brought away such loads of provisions from their homes +that we were in no want of food. + +After leaving Kaonka we traveled over an uninhabited, gently undulating, +and most beautiful district, the border territory between those who +accept and those who reject the sway of the Makololo. The face of the +country appears as if in long waves, running north and south. There are +no rivers, though water stands in pools in the hollows. We were now +come into the country which my people all magnify as a perfect paradise. +Sebituane was driven from it by the Matebele. It suited him exactly for +cattle, corn, and health. The soil is dry, and often a reddish sand; +there are few trees, but fine large shady ones stand dotted here and +there over the country where towns formerly stood. One of the fig family +I measured, and found to be forty feet in circumference; the heart had +been burned out, and some one had made a lodging in it, for we saw the +remains of a bed and a fire. The sight of the open country, with +the increased altitude we were attaining, was most refreshing to the +spirits. Large game abound. We see in the distance buffaloes, elands, +hartebeest, gnus, and elephants, all very tame, as no one disturbs them. +Lions, which always accompany other large animals, roared about us, but, +as it was moonlight, there was no danger. In the evening, while standing +on a mass of granite, one began to roar at me, though it was still +light. The temperature was pleasant, as the rains, though not universal, +had fallen in many places. It was very cloudy, preventing observations. +The temperature at 6 A.M. was 70 Deg., at midday 90 Deg., in the +evening 84 Deg. This is very pleasant on the high lands, with but little +moisture in the air. + +The different rocks to the westward of Kaonka's, talcose gneiss and +white mica schist, generally dip toward the west, but at Kaonka's, large +rounded masses of granite, containing black mica, began to appear. The +outer rind of it inclines to peel off, and large crystals project on the +exposed surface. + +In passing through some parts where a good shower of rain has fallen, +the stridulous piercing notes of the cicadae are perfectly deafening; a +drab-colored cricket joins the chorus with a sharp sound, which has +as little modulation as the drone of a Scottish bagpipe. I could not +conceive how so small a thing could raise such a sound; it seemed to +make the ground over it thrill. When cicadae, crickets, and frogs unite, +their music may be heard at the distance of a quarter of a mile. + +A tree attracted my attention as new, the leaves being like those of +an acacia, but the ends of the branches from which they grew resembled +closely oblong fir-cones. The corn-poppy was abundant, and many of the +trees, flowering bulbs, and plants were identical with those in Pungo +Andongo. A flower as white as the snowdrop now begins to appear, and +farther on it spots the whole sward with its beautiful pure white. A +fresh crop appears every morning, and if the day is cloudy they do not +expand till the afternoon. In an hour or so they droop and die. They are +named by the natives, from their shape, "Tlaku ea pitse", hoof of zebra. +I carried several of the somewhat bulbous roots of this pretty flower +till I reached the Mauritius. + +On the 30th we crossed the River Kalomo, which is about 50 yards broad, +and is the only stream that never dries up on this ridge. The current +is rapid, and its course is toward the south, as it joins the Zambesi +at some distance below the falls. The Unguesi and Lekone, with their +feeders, flow westward, this river to the south, and all those to which +we are about to come take an easterly direction. We were thus at the +apex of the ridge, and found that, as water boiled at 202 Deg., our +altitude above the level of the sea was over 5000 feet. Here the granite +crops out again in great rounded masses which change the dip of the +gneiss and mica schist rocks from the westward to the eastward. +In crossing the western ridge I mentioned the clay shale or keele +formation, a section of which we have in the valley of the Quango: the +strata there lie nearly horizontal, but on this ridge the granite seems +to have been the active agent of elevation, for the rocks, both on its +east and west, abut against it. Both eastern and western ridges are +known to be comparatively salubrious, and in this respect, as well as +in the general aspect of the country, they resemble that most healthy of +all healthy climates, the interior of South Africa, near and adjacent to +the Desert. This ridge has neither fountain nor marsh upon it, and east +of the Kalomo we look upon treeless undulating plains covered with short +grass. From a point somewhat near to the great falls, this ridge or +oblong mound trends away to the northeast, and there treeless elevated +plains again appear. Then again the ridge is said to bend away from the +falls to the southeast, the Mashona country, or rather their +mountains, appearing, according to Mr. Moffat, about four days east of +Matlokotloko, the present residence of Mosilikatse. In reference to +this ridge he makes the interesting remark, "I observed a number of +the Angora goat, most of them being white; and their long soft hair, +covering their entire bodies to the ground, made them look like animals +moving along without feet."* + + * Moffat's "Visit to Mosilikatse".--Royal Geographical + Society's Journal, vol. xxvi., p. 96. + +It is impossible to say how much farther to the north these subtending +ridges may stretch. There is reason to believe that, though the same +general form of country obtains, they are not flanked by abrupt hills +between the latitude 12 Deg. south and the equator. The inquiry is +worthy the attention of travelers. As they are known to be favorable to +health, the Makololo, who have been nearly all cut off by fevers in the +valley, declaring that here they never had a headache, they may even be +recommended as a sanatorium for those whose enterprise leads them into +Africa, either for the advancement of scientific knowledge, or for the +purposes of trade or benevolence. In the case of the eastern ridge, we +have water carriage, with only one short rapid as an obstruction, +right up to its base; and if a quick passage can be effected during the +healthy part of the year, there would be no danger of loss of health +during a long stay on these high lands afterward. How much farther do +these high ridges extend? The eastern one seems to bend in considerably +toward the great falls; and the strike of the rocks indicating that, +farther to the N.N.E. than my investigations extend, it may not, at a +few degrees of latitude beyond, be more than 300 or 350 miles from +the coast. They at least merit inquiry, for they afford a prospect to +Europeans of situations superior in point of salubrity to any of those +on the coast; and so on the western side of the continent; for it is +a fact that many parts in the interior of Angola, which were formerly +thought to be unhealthy on account of their distance inland, have been +found, as population advanced, to be the most healthy spots in the +country. Did the great Niger expedition turn back when near such a +desirable position for its stricken and prostrate members? + +The distances from top to top of the ridges may be about 10 Deg. of +longitude, or 600 geographical miles. I can not hear of a hill ON either +ridge, and there are scarcely any in the space inclosed by them. The +Monakadze is the highest, but that is not more than a thousand feet +above the flat valley. On account of this want of hills in the part of +the country which, by gentle undulations, leads one insensibly up to +an altitude of 5000 feet above the level of the sea, I have adopted the +agricultural term ridges, for they partake very much of the character of +the oblong mounds with which we are all familiar. And we shall yet see +that the mountains which are met with outside these ridges are only a +low fringe, many of which are not of much greater altitude than even the +bottom of the great central valley. If we leave out of view the greater +breadth of the central basin at other parts, and speak only of the +comparatively narrow part formed by the bend to the westward of the +eastern ridge, we might say that the form of this region is a broad +furrow in the middle, with an elevated ridge about 200 miles broad on +either side, the land sloping thence, on both sides, to the sea. If I am +right in believing the granite to be the cause of the elevation of this +ridge, the direction in which the strike of the rocks trends to the +N.N.E. may indicate that the same geological structure prevails farther +north, and two or three lakes which exist in that direction may be of +exactly the same nature with Lake Ngami, having been diminished to their +present size by the same kind of agency as that which formed the falls +of Victoria. + +We met an elephant on the Kalomo which had no tusks. This is as rare a +thing in Africa as it is to find them with tusks in Ceylon. As soon +as she saw us she made off. It is remarkable to see the fear of man +operating even on this huge beast. Buffaloes abound, and we see large +herds of them feeding in all directions by day. When much disturbed by +man they retire into the densest parts of the forest, and feed by night +only. We secured a fine large bull by crawling close to a herd. When +shot, he fell down, and the rest, not seeing their enemy, gazed about, +wondering where the danger lay. The others came back to it, and, when +we showed ourselves, much to the amusement of my companions, they lifted +him up with their horns, and, half supporting him in the crowd, bore him +away. All these wild animals usually gore a wounded companion, and +expel him from the herd; even zebras bite and kick an unfortunate or a +diseased one. It is intended by this instinct that none but the perfect +and healthy ones should propagate the species. In this case they +manifested their usual propensity to gore the wounded, but our +appearance at that moment caused them to take flight, and this, with the +goring being continued a little, gave my men the impression that they +were helping away their wounded companion. He was shot between the +fourth and fifth ribs; the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on +the opposite side, and then lodged beneath the skin. But, though it was +eight ounces in weight, yet he ran off some distance, and was secured +only by the people driving him into a pool of water and killing him +there with their spears. The herd ran away in the direction of our +camp, and then came bounding past us again. We took refuge on a +large ant-hill, and as they rushed by us at full gallop I had a good +opportunity of seeing that the leader of a herd of about sixty was an +old cow; all the others allowed her a full half-length in their front. +On her withers sat about twenty buffalo-birds ('Textor erythrorhynchus', +Smith), which act the part of guardian spirits to the animals. When the +buffalo is quietly feeding, this bird may be seen hopping on the ground +picking up food, or sitting on its back ridding it of the insects with +which their skins are sometimes infested. The sight of the bird being +much more acute than that of the buffalo, it is soon alarmed by the +approach of any danger, and, flying up, the buffaloes instantly raise +their heads to discover the cause which has led to the sudden flight of +their guardian. They sometimes accompany the buffaloes in their flight +on the wing, at other times they sit as above described. + +Another African bird, namely, the 'Buphaga Africana', attends the +rhinoceros for a similar purpose. It is called "kala" in the language of +the Bechuanas. When these people wish to express their dependence upon +another, they address him as "my rhinoceros", as if they were the birds. +The satellites of a chief go by the same name. This bird can not be said +to depend entirely on the insects on that animal, for its hard, hairless +skin is a protection against all except a few spotted ticks; but it +seems to be attached to the beast, somewhat as the domestic dog is to +man; and while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden flying up of its +sentinel, the rhinoceros, not having keen sight, but an acute ear, +is warned by the cry of its associate, the 'Buphaga Africana'. The +rhinoceros feeds by night, and its sentinel is frequently heard in +the morning uttering its well-known call, as it searches for its bulky +companion. One species of this bird, observed in Angola, possesses a +bill of a peculiar scoop or stone forceps form, as if intended only to +tear off insects from the skin; and its claws are as sharp as needles, +enabling it to hang on to an animal's ear while performing a useful +service within it. This sharpness of the claws allows the bird to cling +to the nearly insensible cuticle without irritating the nerves of pain +on the true skin, exactly as a burr does to the human hand; but in +the case of the 'Buphaga Africana' and 'erythrorhyncha', other food is +partaken of, for we observed flocks of them roosting on the reeds, in +spots where neither tame nor wild animals were to be found. + +The most wary animal in a herd is generally the "leader". When it is +shot the others often seem at a loss what to do, and stop in a state of +bewilderment. I have seen them attempt to follow each other and appear +quite confused, no one knowing for half a minute or more where to direct +the flight. On one occasion I happened to shoot the leader, a young +zebra mare, which at some former time had been bitten on the hind leg +by a carnivorous animal, and, thereby made unusually wary, had, in +consequence, become a leader. If they see either one of their own herd +or any other animal taking to flight, wild animals invariably flee. +The most timid thus naturally leads the rest. It is not any other +peculiarity, but simply this provision, which is given them for the +preservation of the race. The great increase of wariness which is +seen to occur when the females bring forth their young, causes all the +leaders to be at that time females; and there is a probability that the +separation of sexes into distinct herds, which is annually observed in +many antelopes, arises from the simple fact that the greater caution of +the she antelopes is partaken of only by the young males, and their more +frequent flights now have the effect of leaving the old males behind. +I am inclined to believe this, because, though the antelopes, as the +pallahs, etc., are frequently in separate herds, they are never seen in +the act of expelling the males. There may be some other reason in the +case of the elephants; but the male and female elephants are never seen +in one herd. The young males remain with their dams only until they are +full grown; and so constantly is the separation maintained, that any +one familiar with them, on seeing a picture with the sexes mixed, would +immediately conclude that the artist had made it from his imagination, +and not from sight. + +DECEMBER 2, 1855. We remained near a small hill, called Maundo, where we +began to be frequently invited by the honey-guide ('Cuculus indicator'). +Wishing to ascertain the truth of the native assertion that this bird is +a deceiver, and by its call sometimes leads to a wild beast and not to +honey, I inquired if any of my men had ever been led by this friendly +little bird to any thing else than what its name implies. Only one of +the 114 could say he had been led to an elephant instead of a hive, like +myself with the black rhinoceros mentioned before. I am quite convinced +that the majority of people who commit themselves to its guidance are +led to honey, and to it alone. + +On the 3d we crossed the River Mozuma, or River of Dila, having traveled +through a beautifully undulating pastoral country. To the south, and +a little east of this, stands the hill Taba Cheu, or "White Mountain", +from a mass of white rock, probably dolomite, on its top. But none +of the hills are of any great altitude. When I heard this mountain +described at Linyanti I thought the glistening substance might be snow, +and my informants were so loud in their assertions of its exceeding +great altitude that I was startled with the idea; but I had quite +forgotten that I was speaking with men who had been accustomed to +plains, and knew nothing of very high mountains. When I inquired what +the white substance was, they at once replied it was a kind of rock. I +expected to have come nearer to it, and would have ascended it; but +we were led to go to the northeast. Yet I doubt not that the native +testimony of its being stone is true. The distant ranges of hills which +line the banks of the Zambesi on the southeast, and landscapes which +permit the eye to range over twenty or thirty miles at a time, with +short grass under our feet, were especially refreshing sights to those +who had traveled for months together over the confined views of the flat +forest, and among the tangled rank herbage of the great valley. + +The Mozuma, or River of Dila, was the first water-course which indicated +that we were now on the slopes toward the eastern coast. It contained no +flowing water, but revealed in its banks what gave me great pleasure +at the time--pieces of lignite, possibly indicating the existence of a +mineral, namely, coal, the want of which in the central country I had +always deplored. Again and again we came to the ruins of large towns, +containing the only hieroglyphics of this country, worn mill-stones, +with the round ball of quartz with which the grinding was effected. +Great numbers of these balls were lying about, showing that the +depopulation had been the result of war; for, had the people removed in +peace, they would have taken the balls with them. + +At the River of Dila we saw the spot where Sebituane lived, and Sekwebu +pointed out the heaps of bones of cattle which the Makololo had been +obliged to slaughter after performing a march with great herds captured +from the Batoka through a patch of the fatal tsetse. When Sebituane +saw the symptoms of the poison, he gave orders to his people to eat the +cattle. He still had vast numbers; and when the Matebele, crossing the +Zambesi opposite this part, came to attack him, he invited the Batoka to +take repossession of their herds, he having so many as to be unable to +guide them in their flight. The country was at that time exceedingly +rich in cattle, and, besides pasturage, it is all well adapted for the +cultivation of native produce. Being on the eastern slope of the ridge, +it receives more rain than any part of the westward. Sekwebu had been +instructed to point out to me the advantages of this position for a +settlement, as that which all the Makololo had never ceased to regret. +It needed no eulogy from Sekwebu; I admired it myself, and the enjoyment +of good health in fine open scenery had an exhilarating effect on my +spirits. The great want was population, the Batoka having all taken +refuge in the hills. We were now in the vicinity of those whom the +Makololo deem rebels, and felt some anxiety as to how we should be +received. + +On the 4th we reached their first village. Remaining at a distance of a +quarter of a mile, we sent two men to inform them who we were, and that +our purposes were peaceful. The head man came and spoke civilly, but, +when nearly dark, the people of another village arrived and behaved very +differently. They began by trying to spear a young man who had gone for +water. Then they approached us, and one came forward howling at the top +of his voice in the most hideous manner; his eyes were shot out, his +lips covered with foam, and every muscle of his frame quivered. He came +near to me, and, having a small battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men +lest he might do violence; but they were afraid to disobey my previous +orders, and to follow their own inclination by knocking him on the +head. I felt a little alarmed too, but would not show fear before my own +people or strangers, and kept a sharp look-out on the little battle-axe. +It seemed to me a case of ecstasy or prophetic phrensy, voluntarily +produced. I felt it would be a sorry way to leave the world, to get my +head chopped by a mad savage, though that, perhaps, would be preferable +to hydrophobia or delirium tremens. Sekwebu took a spear in his hand, as +if to pierce a bit of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man +if he offered violence to me. After my courage had been sufficiently +tested, I beckoned with the head to the civil head man to remove him, +and he did so by drawing him aside. This man pretended not to know what +he was doing. I would fain have felt his pulse, to ascertain whether the +violent trembling were not feigned, but had not much inclination to go +near the battle-axe again. There was, however, a flow of perspiration, +and the excitement continued fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. +This paroxysm is the direct opposite of hypnotism, and it is singular +that it has not been tried in Europe as well as clairvoyance. This +second batch of visitors took no pains to conceal their contempt for our +small party, saying to each other, in a tone of triumph, "They are quite +a Godsend!" literally, "God has apportioned them to us." "They are lost +among the tribes!" "They have wandered in order to be destroyed, and +what can they do without shields among so many?" Some of them asked if +there were no other parties. Sekeletu had ordered my men not to take +their shields, as in the case of my first company. We were looked upon +as unarmed, and an easy prey. We prepared against a night attack by +discharging and reloading our guns, which were exactly the same in +number (five) as on the former occasion, as I allowed my late companions +to retain those which I purchased at Loanda. We were not molested, but +some of the enemy tried to lead us toward the Bashukulompo, who are +considered to be the fiercest race in this quarter. As we knew our +direction to the confluence of the Kafue and Zambesi, we declined their +guidance, and the civil head man of the evening before then came along +with us. Crowds of natives hovered round us in the forest; but he ran +forward and explained, and we were not molested. That night we slept by +a little village under a low range of hills, which are called Chizamena. +The country here is more woody than on the high lands we had left, but +the trees are not in general large. Great numbers of them have been +broken off by elephants a foot or two from the ground: they thus seem +pollarded from that point. This animal never seriously lessens the +number of trees; indeed, I have often been struck by the very little +damage he does in a forest. His food consists more of bulbs, tubers, +roots, and branches, than any thing else. Where they have been feeding, +great numbers of trees, as thick as a man's body, are seen twisted down +or broken off, in order that they may feed on the tender shoots at the +tops. They are said sometimes to unite in wrenching down large trees. +The natives in the interior believe that the elephant never touches +grass, and I never saw evidence of his having grazed until we came near +to Tete, and then he had fed on grass in seed only; this seed contains +so much farinaceous matter that the natives collect it for their own +food. + +This part of the country abounds in ant-hills. In the open parts they +are studded over the surface exactly as haycocks are in harvest, or +heaps of manure in spring, rather disfiguring the landscape. In the +woods they are as large as round haystacks, 40 or 50 feet in diameter +at the base, and at least 20 feet high. These are more fertile than the +rest of the land, and here they are the chief garden-ground for maize, +pumpkins, and tobacco. + +When we had passed the outskirting villages, which alone consider +themselves in a state of war with the Makololo, we found the Batoka, or +Batonga, as they here call themselves, quite friendly. Great numbers of +them came from all the surrounding villages with presents of maize and +masuka, and expressed great joy at the first appearance of a white man, +and harbinger of peace. The women clothe themselves better than the +Balonda, but the men go 'in puris naturalibus'. They walk about without +the smallest sense of shame. They have even lost the tradition of the +"fig-leaf". I asked a fine, large-bodied old man if he did not think +it would be better to adopt a little covering. He looked with a pitying +leer, and laughed with surprise at my thinking him at all indecent; he +evidently considered himself above such weak superstition. I told them +that, on my return, I should have my family with me, and no one must +come near us in that state. "What shall we put on? we have no clothing." +It was considered a good joke when I told them that, if they had nothing +else, they must put on a bunch of grass. + +The farther we advanced, the more we found the country swarming with +inhabitants. Great numbers came to see the white man, a sight they had +never beheld before. They always brought presents of maize and masuka. +Their mode of salutation is quite singular. They throw themselves on +their backs on the ground, and, rolling from side to side, slap the +outside of their thighs as expressions of thankfulness and welcome, +uttering the words "Kina bomba." This method of salutation was to me +very disagreeable, and I never could get reconciled to it. I called out, +"Stop, stop; I don't want that;" but they, imagining I was dissatisfied, +only tumbled about more furiously, and slapped their thighs with greater +vigor. The men being totally unclothed, this performance imparted to my +mind a painful sense of their extreme degradation. My own Batoka were +much more degraded than the Barotse, and more reckless. We had to keep +a strict watch, so as not to be involved by their thieving from the +inhabitants, in whose country and power we were. We had also to watch +the use they made of their tongues, for some within hearing of the +villagers would say, "I broke all the pots of that village," or, "I +killed a man there." They were eager to recount their soldier deeds, +when they were in company with the Makololo in former times as a +conquering army. They were thus placing us in danger by their remarks. I +called them together, and spoke to them about their folly, and gave +them a pretty plain intimation that I meant to insist upon as complete +subordination as I had secured in my former journey, as being necessary +for the safety of the party. Happily, it never was needful to resort to +any other measure for their obedience, as they all believed that I would +enforce it. + +In connection with the low state of the Batoka, I was led to think on +the people of Kuruman, who were equally degraded and equally depraved. +There a man scorned to shed a tear. It would have been "tlolo", or +transgression. Weeping, such as Dr. Kane describes among the Esquimaux, +is therefore quite unknown in that country. But I have witnessed +instances like this: Baba, a mighty hunter--the interpreter who +accompanied Captain Harris, and who was ultimately killed by a +rhinoceros--sat listening to the Gospel in the church at Kuruman, and +the gracious words of Christ, made to touch his heart, evidently by the +Holy Spirit, melted him into tears; I have seen him and others sink down +to the ground weeping. When Baba was lying mangled by the furious beast +which tore him off his horse, he shed no tear, but quietly prayed as +long as he was conscious. I had no hand in his instruction: if these +Batoka ever become like him, and they may, the influence that effects it +must be divine. + +A very large portion of this quarter is covered with masuka-trees, +and the ground was so strewed with the pleasant fruit that my men kept +eating it constantly as we marched along. We saw a smaller kind of +the same tree, named Molondo, the fruit of which is about the size of +marbles, having a tender skin, and slight acidity of taste mingled with +its sweetness. Another tree which is said to yield good fruit is named +Sombo, but it was not ripe at this season. + +DECEMBER 6TH. We passed the night near a series of villages. Before we +came to a stand under our tree, a man came running to us with hands and +arms firmly bound with cords behind his back, entreating me to release +him. When I had dismounted, the head man of the village advanced, and +I inquired the prisoner's offense. He stated that he had come from the +Bashukulompo as a fugitive, and he had given him a wife and garden and +a supply of seed; but, on refusing a demand for more, the prisoner had +threatened to kill him, and had been seen the night before skulking +about the village, apparently with that intention. I declined +interceding unless he would confess to his father-in-law, and promise +amendment. He at first refused to promise to abstain from violence, but +afterward agreed. The father-in-law then said that he would take him to +the village and release him, but the prisoner cried out bitterly, "He +will kill me there; don't leave me, white man." I ordered a knife, and +one of the villagers released him on the spot. His arms were cut by the +cords, and he was quite lame from the blows he had received. + +These villagers supplied us abundantly with ground-nuts, maize, and +corn. All expressed great satisfaction on hearing my message, as I +directed their attention to Jesus as their Savior, whose word is "Peace +on earth, and good-will to men." They called out, "We are tired of +flight; give us rest and sleep." They of course did not understand +the full import of the message, but it was no wonder that they eagerly +seized the idea of peace. Their country has been visited by successive +scourges during the last half century, and they are now "a nation +scattered and peeled." When Sebituane came, the cattle were innumerable, +and yet these were the remnants only, left by a chief called Pingola, +who came from the northeast. He swept across the whole territory +inhabited by his cattle-loving countrymen, devouring oxen, cows, and +calves, without retaining a single head. He seems to have been actuated +by a simple love of conquest, and is an instance of what has occurred +two or three times in every century in this country, from time +immemorial. A man or more energy or ambition than his fellows rises +up and conquers a large territory, but as soon as he dies the power +he built up is gone, and his reign, having been one of terror, is +not perpetuated. This, and the want of literature, have prevented the +establishment of any great empire in the interior of Africa. Pingola +effected his conquests by carrying numbers of smith's bellows with him. +The arrow-heads were heated before shooting into a town, and when a +wound was inflicted on either man or beast, great confusion ensued. +After Pingola came Sebituane, and after him the Matebele of Mosilikatse; +and these successive inroads have reduced the Batoka to a state in which +they naturally rejoice at the prospect of deliverance and peace. + +We spent Sunday, the 10th, at Monze's village, who is considered the +chief of all the Batoka we have seen. He lives near the hill Kisekise, +whence we have a view of at least thirty miles of open undulating +country, covered with short grass, and having but few trees. These open +lawns would in any other land, as well as this, be termed pastoral, but +the people have now no cattle, and only a few goats and fowls. They +are located all over the country in small villages, and cultivate +large gardens. They are said to have adopted this wide-spread mode of +habitation in order to give alarm should any enemy appear. In former +times they lived in large towns. In the distance (southeast) we see +ranges of dark mountains along the banks of the Zambesi, and are told of +the existence there of the rapid named Kansala, which is said to impede +the navigation. The river is reported to be placid above that as far +as the territory of Sinamane, a Batoka chief, who is said to command it +after it emerges smooth again below the falls. Kansala is the only rapid +reported in the river until we come to Kebrabasa, twenty or thirty miles +above Tete. On the north we have mountains appearing above the horizon, +which are said to be on the banks of the Kafue. + +The chief Monze came to us on Sunday morning, wrapped in a large cloth, +and rolled himself about in the dust, screaming "Kina bomba," as they +all do. The sight of great naked men wallowing on the ground, though +intended to do me honor, was always very painful; it made me feel +thankful that my lot had been cast in such different circumstances from +that of so many of my fellow-men. One of his wives accompanied him; she +would have been comely if her teeth had been spared; she had a little +battle-axe in her hand, and helped her husband to scream. She was much +excited, for she had never seen a white man before. We rather liked +Monze, for he soon felt at home among us, and kept up conversation +during much of the day. One head man of a village after another arrived, +and each of them supplied us liberally with maize, ground-nuts, and +corn. Monze gave us a goat and a fowl, and appeared highly satisfied +with a present of some handkerchiefs I had got in my supplies left at +the island. Being of printed cotton, they excited great admiration; and +when I put a gaudy-colored one as a shawl about his child, he said that +he would send for all his people to make a dance about it. In telling +them that my object was to open up a path whereby they might, by getting +merchandise for ivory, avoid the guilt of selling their children, I +asked Monze, with about 150 of his men, if they would like a white man +to live among them and teach them. All expressed high satisfaction at +the prospect of the white man and his path: they would protect both him +and his property. I asked the question, because it would be of great +importance to have stations in this healthy region, whither agents +oppressed by sickness might retire, and which would serve, moreover, as +part of a chain of communication between the interior and the coast. The +answer does not mean much more than what I know, by other means, to be +the case--that a white man OF GOOD SENSE would be welcome and safe in +all these parts. By uprightness, and laying himself out for the good of +the people, he would be known all over the country as a BENEFACTOR of +the race. None desire Christian instruction, for of it they have +no idea. But the people are now humbled by the scourgings they have +received, and seem to be in a favorable state for the reception of the +Gospel. The gradual restoration of their former prosperity in cattle, +simultaneously with instruction, would operate beneficially upon their +minds. The language is a dialect of the other negro languages in the +great valley; and as many of the Batoka living under the Makololo +understand both it and the Sichuana, missionaries could soon acquire it +through that medium. + +Monze had never been visited by any white man, but had seen black native +traders, who, he said, came for ivory, not for slaves. He had heard +of white men passing far to the east of him to Cazembe, referring, no +doubt, to Pereira, Lacerda, and others, who have visited that chief. + +The streams in this part are not perennial; I did not observe one +suitable for the purpose of irrigation. There is but little wood; here +and there you see large single trees, or small clumps of evergreens, but +the abundance of maize and ground-nuts we met with shows that more rain +falls than in the Bechuana country, for there they never attempt to +raise maize except in damp hollows on the banks of rivers. The pasturage +is very fine for both cattle and sheep. My own men, who know the land +thoroughly, declare that it is all garden-ground together, and that the +more tender grains, which require richer soil than the native corn, need +no care here. It is seldom stony. + +The men of a village came to our encampment, and, as they followed +the Bashukulompo mode of dressing their hair, we had an opportunity +of examining it for the first time. A circle of hair at the top of the +head, eight inches or more in diameter, is woven into a cone eight or +ten inches high, with an obtuse apex, bent, in some cases, a little +forward, giving it somewhat the appearance of a helmet. Some have only +a cone, four or five inches in diameter at the base. It is said that the +hair of animals is added; but the sides of the cone are woven something +like basket-work. The head man of this village, instead of having his +brought to a point, had it prolonged into a wand, which extended a full +yard from the crown of his head. The hair on the forehead, above the +ears, and behind, is all shaven off, so they appear somewhat as if a cap +of liberty were cocked upon the top of the head. After the weaving is +performed it is said to be painful, as the scalp is drawn tightly up; +but they become used to it. Monze informed me that all his people were +formerly ornamented in this way, but he discouraged it. I wished him to +discourage the practice of knocking out the teeth too, but he smiled, as +if in that case the fashion would be too strong for him, as it was for +Sebituane. + +Monze came on Monday morning, and, on parting, presented us with a piece +of a buffalo which had been killed the day before by lions. We crossed +the rivulet Makoe, which runs westward into the Kafue, and went +northward in order to visit Semalembue, an influential chief there. +We slept at the village of Monze's sister, who also passes by the same +name. Both he and his sister are feminine in their appearance, but +disfigured by the foolish custom of knocking out the upper front teeth. + +It is not often that jail-birds turn out well, but the first person who +appeared to welcome us at the village of Monze's sister was the prisoner +we had released in the way. He came with a handsome present of corn +and meal, and, after praising our kindness to the villagers who had +assembled around us, asked them, "What do you stand gazing at? Don't +you know that they have mouths like other people?" He then set off and +brought large bundles of grass and wood for our comfort, and a pot to +cook our food in. + +DECEMBER 12TH. The morning presented the appearance of a continuous rain +from the north, the first time we had seen it set in from that quarter +in such a southern latitude. In the Bechuana country, continuous rains +are always from the northeast or east, while in Londa and Angola they +are from the north. At Pungo Andongo, for instance, the whitewash is all +removed from the north side of the houses. It cleared up, however, about +midday, and Monze's sister conducted us a mile or two upon the road. On +parting, she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village to +send food to the point where we should sleep. In expressing her joy at +the prospect of living in peace, she said it would be so pleasant "to +sleep without dreaming of any one pursuing them with a spear." + +In our front we had ranges of hills called Chamai, covered with trees. +We crossed the rivulet Nakachinta, flowing westward into the Kafue, and +then passed over ridges of rocks of the same mica schist which we +found so abundant in Golungo Alto; here they were surmounted by reddish +porphyry and finely laminated felspathic grit with trap. The dip, +however, of these rocks is not toward the centre of the continent, as +in Angola, for ever since we passed the masses of granite on the +Kalomo, the rocks, chiefly of mica schist, dip away from them, taking +an easterly direction. A decided change of dip occurs again when we come +near the Zambesi, as will be noticed farther on. The hills which flank +that river now appeared on our right as a high dark range, while those +near the Kafue have the aspect of a low blue range, with openings +between. We crossed two never-failing rivulets also flowing into the +Kafue. The country is very fertile, but vegetation is nowhere rank. The +boiling-point of water being 204 Deg., showed that we were not yet as +low down as Linyanti; but we had left the masuka-trees behind us, and +many others with which we had become familiar. A feature common to the +forests of Angola and Benguela, namely, the presence of orchilla-weed +and lichens on the trees, with mosses on the ground, began to appear; +but we never, on any part of the eastern slope, saw the abundant crops +of ferns which are met with every where in Angola. The orchilla-weed and +mosses, too, were in but small quantities. + +As we passed along, the people continued to supply us with food in +great abundance. They had by some means or other got a knowledge that I +carried medicine, and, somewhat to the disgust of my men, who wished to +keep it all to themselves, brought their sick children for cure. Some of +them I found had hooping-cough, which is one of the few epidemics that +range through this country. + +In passing through the woods I for the first time heard the bird called +Mokwa reza, or "Son-in-law of God" (Micropogon sulphuratus?), utter its +cry, which is supposed by the natives to be "pula, pula" (rain, rain). +It is said to do this only before heavy falls of rain. It may be a +cuckoo, for it is said to throw out the eggs of the white-backed Senegal +crow, and lay its own instead. This, combined with the cry for rain, +causes the bird to be regarded with favor. The crow, on the other hand, +has a bad repute, and, when rain is withheld, its nest is sought for +and destroyed, in order to dissolve the charm by which it is supposed +to seal up the windows of heaven. All the other birds now join in full +chorus in the mornings, and two of them, at least, have fine loud notes. + + + + +Chapter 28. + +Beautiful Valley--Buffalo--My young Men kill two Elephants--The +Hunt--Mode of measuring Height of live Elephants--Wild Animals smaller +here than in the South, though their Food is more abundant--The Elephant +a dainty Feeder--Semalembue--His Presents--Joy in prospect of living +in Peace--Trade--His People's way of wearing their Hair--Their Mode +of Salutation--Old Encampment--Sebituane's former Residence--Ford +of Kafue--Hippopotami--Hills and Villages--Geological Formation-- +Prodigious Quantities of large Game--Their Tameness--Rains--Less +Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda--Reason--Charge from an +Elephant--Vast Amount of animal Life on the Zambesi--Water of River +discolored--An Island with Buffaloes and Men on it--Native Devices for +killing Game--Tsetse now in Country--Agricultural Industry--An Albino +murdered by his Mother--"Guilty of Tlolo"--Women who make their +Mouths "like those of Ducks"--First Symptom of the Slave-trade on this +side--Selole's Hostility--An armed Party hoaxed--An Italian Marauder +slain--Elephant's Tenacity of Life--A Word to young Sportsmen-- +Mr. Oswell's Adventure with an Elephant; narrow Escape--Mburuma's +Village--Suspicious Conduct of his People--Guides attempt to detain +us--The Village and People of Ma Mburuma--Character our Guides give of +us. + + + +13TH. The country is becoming very beautiful, and furrowed by deep +valleys; the underlying rocks, being igneous, have yielded fertile soil. +There is great abundance of large game. The buffaloes select open spots, +and often eminences, as standing-places through the day. We crossed the +Mbai, and found in its bed rocks of pink marble. Some little hills near +it are capped by marble of beautiful whiteness, the underlying rock +being igneous. Violent showers occur frequently on the hills, and cause +such sudden sweeping floods in these rivulets, that five of our men, who +had gone to the other side for firewood, were obliged to swim back. +The temperature of the air is lowered considerably by the daily rains. +Several times the thermometer at sunrise has been as low as 68 Deg., and +74 Deg. at sunset. Generally, however, it stood at from 72 Deg. to 74 +Deg. at sunrise, 90 Deg. to 96 Deg. at midday, and 80 Deg. to 84 Deg. +at sunset. The sensation, however, as before remarked, was not +disagreeable. + +14TH. We entered a most beautiful valley, abounding in large game. +Finding a buffalo lying down, I went to secure him for our food. Three +balls did not kill him, and, as he turned round as if for a charge, we +ran for the shelter of some rocks. Before we gained them, we found that +three elephants, probably attracted by the strange noise, had cut off +our retreat on that side; they, however, turned short off, and allowed +us to gain the rocks. We then saw that the buffalo was moving off quite +briskly, and, in order not to be entirely balked, I tried a long shot at +the last of the elephants, and, to the great joy of my people, broke his +fore leg. The young men soon brought him to a stand, and one shot in the +brain dispatched him. I was right glad to see the joy manifested at such +an abundant supply of meat. + +On the following day, while my men were cutting up the elephant, great +numbers of the villagers came to enjoy the feast. We were on the side +of a fine green valley, studded here and there with trees, and cut by +numerous rivulets. I had retired from the noise, to take an observation +among some rocks of laminated grit, when I beheld an elephant and her +calf at the end of the valley, about two miles distant. The calf was +rolling in the mud, and the dam was standing fanning herself with her +great ears. As I looked at them through my glass, I saw a long string +of my own men appearing on the other side of them, and Sekwebu came and +told me that these had gone off saying, "Our father will see to-day what +sort of men he has got." I then went higher up the side of the valley, +in order to have a distinct view of their mode of hunting. The goodly +beast, totally unconscious of the approach of an enemy, stood for some +time suckling her young one, which seemed about two years old; they then +went into a pit containing mud, and smeared themselves all over with it, +the little one frisking about his dam, flapping his ears and tossing his +trunk incessantly, in elephantine fashion. She kept flapping her ears +and wagging her tail, as if in the height of enjoyment. Then began the +piping of her enemies, which was performed by blowing into a tube, +or the hands closed together, as boys do into a key. They call out to +attract the animal's attention, + + "O chief! chief! we have come to kill you. + O chief! chief! many more will die besides you, etc. + The gods have said it," etc., etc. + +Both animals expanded their ears and listened, then left their bath as +the crowd rushed toward them. The little one ran forward toward the +end of the valley, but, seeing the men there, returned to his dam. She +placed herself on the danger side of her calf, and passed her proboscis +over it again and again, as if to assure it of safety. She frequently +looked back to the men, who kept up an incessant shouting, singing, +and piping; then looked at her young one and ran after it, sometimes +sideways, as if her feelings were divided between anxiety to protect her +offspring and desire to revenge the temerity of her persecutors. The men +kept about a hundred yards in her rear, and some that distance from her +flanks, and continued thus until she was obliged to cross a rivulet. +The time spent in descending and getting up the opposite bank allowed +of their coming up to the edge, and discharging their spears at about +twenty yards distance. After the first discharge she appeared with her +sides red with blood, and, beginning to flee for her own life, seemed +to think no more of her young. I had previously sent off Sekwebu with +orders to spare the calf. It ran very fast, but neither young nor old +ever enter into a gallop; their quickest pace is only a sharp walk. +Before Sekwebu could reach them, the calf had taken refuge in the water, +and was killed. The pace of the dam gradually became slower. She turned +with a shriek of rage, and made a furious charge back among the men. +They vanished at right angles to her course, or sideways, and, as she +ran straight on, she went through the whole party, but came near no one +except a man who wore a piece of cloth on his shoulders. Bright clothing +is always dangerous in these cases. She charged three or four times, +and, except in the first instance, never went farther than 100 yards. +She often stood after she had crossed a rivulet, and faced the men, +though she received fresh spears. It was by this process of spearing and +loss of blood that she was killed; for at last, making a short charge, +she staggered round and sank down dead in a kneeling posture. I did +not see the whole hunt, having been tempted away by both sun and moon +appearing unclouded. I turned from the spectacle of the destruction of +noble animals, which might be made so useful in Africa, with a feeling +of sickness, and it was not relieved by the recollection that the ivory +was mine, though that was the case. I regretted to see them killed, and +more especially the young one, the meat not being at all necessary at +that time; but it is right to add that I did not feel sick when my own +blood was up the day before. We ought, perhaps, to judge those deeds +more leniently in which we ourselves have no temptation to engage. Had +I not been previously guilty of doing the very same thing, I might have +prided myself on superior humanity when I experienced the nausea in +viewing my men kill these two. + +The elephant first killed was a male, not full grown; his height at the +withers, 8 feet 4 inches; circumference of the fore foot, 44 inches * 2 += 7 feet 4 inches. The female was full grown, and measured in height 8 +feet 8 inches; circumference of the fore foot, 48 inches * 2 = 8 feet +(96 inches). We afterward found that full-grown male elephants of this +region ranged in height at the withers from 9 feet 9 inches to 9 feet 10 +inches, and the circumference of the fore foot to be 4 feet 9-1/2 inches +* 2 = 9 feet 7 inches. These details are given because the general rule +has been observed that twice the circumference of the impression made +by the fore foot on the ground is the height of the animal. The print on +the ground, being a little larger than the foot itself, would thus seem +to be an accurate mode of measuring the size of any elephant that has +passed; but the above measurements show that it is applicable only to +full-grown animals. The greater size of the African elephant in the +south would at once distinguish it from the Indian one; but here they +approach more nearly to each other in bulk, a female being about as +large as a common Indian male. But the ear of the African is an external +mark which no one will mistake even in a picture. That of the female now +killed was 4 feet 5 inches in depth, and 4 feet in horizontal breadth. +I have seen a native creep under one so as to be quite covered from the +rain. The ear of the Indian variety is not more than a third of this +size. The representation of elephants on ancient coins shows that this +important characteristic was distinctly recognized of old. Indeed, +Cuvier remarked that it was better known by Aristotle than by Buffon. + +Having been anxious to learn whether the African elephant is capable +of being tamed, through the kindness of my friend Admiral Smythe I am +enabled to give the reader conclusive evidence on this point. In the two +medals furnished from his work, "A descriptive Catalogue of his Cabinet +of Roman and Imperial large brass Medals", the size of the ears will +be at once noted as those of the true African elephant.* They were even +more docile than the Asiatic, and were taught various feats, as walking +on ropes, dancing, etc. One of the coins is of Faustina senior, the +other of Severus the Seventh, and struck A.D. 197. These elephants were +brought from Africa to Rome. The attempt to tame this most useful animal +has never been made at the Cape, nor has one ever been exhibited in +England. There is only one very young calf of the species in the British +Museum. + + * Unfortunately these illustrations can not be presented in + this ASCII text. A. L., 1997. + +The abundance of food in this country, as compared with the south, would +lead one to suppose that animals here must attain a much greater size; +but actual measurement now confirms the impression made on my mind by +the mere sight of the animals, that those in the districts north of +20 Deg. were smaller than the same races existing southward of that +latitude. The first time that Mr. Oswell and myself saw full-grown male +elephants on the River Zouga, they seemed no larger than the females +(which are always smaller than males) we had met on the Limpopo. There +they attain a height of upward of 12 feet. At the Zouga the height of +one I measured was 11 feet 4 inches, and in this district 9 feet 10 +inches. There is, however, an increase in the size of the tusks as we +approach the equator. Unfortunately, I never made measurements of other +animals in the south; but the appearance of the animals themselves in +the north at once produced the impression on my mind referred to as to +their decrease in size. When we first saw koodoos, they were so much +smaller than those we had been accustomed to in the south that we +doubted whether they were not a new kind of antelope; and the leche, +seen nowhere south of 20 Deg., is succeeded by the poku as we go north. +This is, in fact, only a smaller species of that antelope, with a more +reddish color. A great difference in size prevails also among domestic +animals; but the influence of locality on them is not so well marked. +The cattle of the Batoka, for instance, are exceedingly small and very +beautiful, possessing generally great breadth between the eyes and a +very playful disposition. They are much smaller than the aboriginal +cattle in the south; but it must be added that those of the Barotse +valley, in the same latitudes as the Batoka, are large. The breed may +have come from the west, as the cattle within the influence of the sea +air, as at Little Fish Bay, Benguela, Ambriz, and along that coast, are +very large. Those found at Lake Ngami, with large horns and standing +six feet high, probably come from the same quarter. The goats are also +small, and domestic fowls throughout this country are of a very +small size, and even dogs, except where the inhabitants have had an +opportunity of improving the breed by importation from the Portuguese. +As the Barotse cattle are an exception to this general rule, so are +the Barotse dogs, for they are large, savage-looking animals, though in +reality very cowardly. It is a little remarkable that a decrease in size +should occur where food is the most abundant; but tropical climates seem +unfavorable for the full development of either animals or man. It is +not from want of care in the breeding, for the natives always choose the +larger and stronger males for stock, and the same arrangement prevails +in nature, for it is only by overcoming their weaker rivals that the +wild males obtain possession of the herd. Invariably they show the scars +received in battle. The elephant we killed yesterday had an umbilical +hernia as large as a child's head, probably caused by the charge of a +rival. The cow showed scars received from men; two of the wounds in her +side were still unhealed, and there was an orifice six inches long, and +open, in her proboscis, and, as it was about a foot from the point, it +must have interfered with her power of lifting water. + +In estimating the amount of food necessary for these and other large +animals, sufficient attention has not been paid to the kinds chosen. The +elephant, for instance, is a most dainty feeder, and particularly fond +of certain sweet-tasted trees and fruits. He chooses the mohonono, the +mimosa, and other trees which contain much saccharine matter, mucilage, +and gum. He may be seen putting his head to a lofty palmyra, and swaying +it to and fro to shake off the seeds; he then picks them up singly +and eats them. Or he may be seen standing by the masuka and other +fruit-trees patiently picking off the sweet fruits one by one. He also +digs up bulbs and tubers, but none of these are thoroughly digested. +Bruce remarked upon the undigested bits of wood seen in their droppings, +and he must have observed, too, that neither leaves nor seeds are +changed by passing through the alimentary canal. The woody fibre of +roots and branches is dropped in the state of tow, the nutritious +matter alone having been extracted. This capability of removing all +the nourishment, and the selection of those kinds of food which contain +great quantities of mucilage and gum, accounts for the fact that +herds of elephants produce but small effect upon the vegetation of +a country--quality being more requisite than quantity. The amount of +internal fat found in them makes them much prized by the inhabitants, +who are all very fond of it, both for food and ointment. + +After leaving the elephant valley we passed through a very beautiful +country, but thinly inhabited by man. The underlying rock is trap, and +dikes of talcose gneiss. The trap is often seen tilted on its edge, or +dipping a little either to the north or south. The strike is generally +to the northeast, the direction we are going. About Losito we found +the trap had given place to hornblende schist, mica schist, and various +schorly rocks. We had now come into the region in which the appearance +of the rocks conveys the impression of a great force having acted along +the bed of the Zambesi. Indeed, I was led to the belief from seeing the +manner in which the rocks have been thrust away on both sides from +its bed, that the power which formed the crack of the falls had given +direction to the river below, and opened a bed for it all the way from +the falls to beyond the gorge of Lupata. + +Passing the rivulet Losito, and through the ranges of hills, we reached +the residence of Semalembue on the 18th. His village is situated at the +bottom of ranges through which the Kafue finds a passage, and close +to the bank of that river. The Kafue, sometimes called Kahowhe or +Bashukulompo River, is upward of two hundred yards wide here, and full +of hippopotami, the young of which may be seen perched on the necks +of their dams. At this point we had reached about the same level as +Linyanti. + +Semalembue paid us a visit soon after our arrival, and said that he had +often heard of me, and now that he had the pleasure of seeing me, he +feared that I should sleep the first night at his village hungry. This +was considered the handsome way of introducing a present, for he then +handed five or six baskets of meal and maize, and an enormous one of +ground-nuts. Next morning he gave me about twenty baskets more of meal. +I could make but a poor return for his kindness, but he accepted my +apologies politely, saying that he knew there were no goods in the +country from which I had come, and, in professing great joy at the words +of peace I spoke, he said, "Now I shall cultivate largely, in the hope +of eating and sleeping in peace." It is noticeable that all whom we have +yet met eagerly caught up the idea of living in peace as the probable +effect of the Gospel. They require no explanation of the existence of +the Deity. Sekwebu makes use of the term "Reza", and they appear to +understand at once. Like negroes in general, they have a strong tendency +to worship, and I heard that Semalembue gets a good deal of ivory from +the surrounding tribes on pretense of having some supernatural power. +He transmits this to some other chiefs on the Zambesi, and receives +in return English cotton goods which come from Mozambique by Babisa +traders. My men here began to sell their beads and other ornaments for +cotton cloth. Semalembue was accompanied by about forty people, all +large men. They have much wool on their heads, which is sometimes drawn +all together up to the crown, and tied there in a large tapering bunch. +The forehead and round by the ears is shaven close to the base of this +tuft. Others draw out the hair on one side, and twist it into little +strings. The rest is taken over, and hangs above the ear, which gives +the appearance of having a cap cocked jauntily on the side of the head. + +The mode of salutation is by clapping the hands. Various parties of +women came from the surrounding villages to see the white man, but all +seemed very much afraid. Their fear, which I seldom could allay, made +them, when addressed, clap their hands with increasing vigor. Sekwebu +was the only one of the Makololo who knew this part of the country; and +this was the region which to his mind was best adapted for the residence +of a tribe. The natives generally have a good idea of the nature of the +soil and pasturage, and Sekwebu expatiated with great eloquence on the +capabilities of this part for supplying the wants of the Makololo. There +is certainly abundance of room at present in the country for thousands +and thousands more of population. + +We passed near the Losito, a former encampment of the Matebele, with +whom Sekwebu had lived. At the sight of the bones of the oxen they had +devoured, and the spot where savage dances had taken place, though all +deserted now, the poor fellow burst out into a wild Matebele song. +He pointed out also a district, about two days and a half west of +Semalembue, where Sebituane had formerly dwelt. There is a hot fountain +on the hills there named "Nakalombo", which may be seen at a distance +emitting steam. "There," said Sekwebu, "had your Molekane (Sebituane) +been alive, he would have brought you to live with him. You would be +on the bank of the river, and, by taking canoes, you would at once sail +down to the Zambesi, and visit the white people at the sea." + +This part is a favorite one with the Makololo, and probably it would be +a good one in which to form a centre of civilization. There is a +large, flat district of country to the north, said to be peopled by +the Bashukulompo and other tribes, who cultivate the ground to a great +extent, and raise vast quantities of grain, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, +etc. They also grow sugar-cane. If they were certain of a market, I +believe they would not be unwilling to cultivate cotton too, but they +have not been accustomed to the peaceful pursuits of commerce. All are +fond of trade, but they have been taught none save that in ivory and +slaves. + +The Kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of Semalembue; as +the hill on the north is called Bolengwe, I apply that name to the gorge +(lat. 15d 48' 19" S., long. 28d 22' E.). Semalembue said that he ought +to see us over the river, so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile +south of his village, and when we entered among the hills we found the +ford of the Kafue. On parting with Semalembue I put on him a shirt, and +he went away with it apparently much delighted. + +The ford was at least 250 yards broad, but rocky and shallow. After +crossing it in a canoe, we went along the left bank, and were completely +shut in by high hills. Every available spot between the river and the +hills is under cultivation; and the residence of the people here is +intended to secure safety for themselves and their gardens from their +enemies; there is plenty of garden-ground outside the hills; here +they are obliged to make pitfalls to protect the grain against the +hippopotami. As these animals had not been disturbed by guns, they were +remarkably tame, and took no notice of our passing. We again saw numbers +of young ones, not much larger than terrier dogs, sitting on the necks +of their dams, the little saucy-looking heads cocking up between the +old one's ears; as they become a little older they sit on the withers. +Needing meat, we shot a full-grown cow, and found, as we had often done +before, the flesh to be very much like pork. The height of this animal +was 4 feet 10 inches, and from the point of the nose to the root of the +tail 10 feet 6. They seem quarrelsome, for both males and females are +found covered with scars, and young males are often killed by the elder +ones: we met an instance of this near the falls. + +We came to a great many little villages among the hills, as if the +inhabitants had reason to hide themselves from the observation of their +enemies. While detained cutting up the hippopotamus, I ascended a hill +called Mabue asula (stones smell badly), and, though not the highest in +sight, it was certainly not 100 feet lower than the most elevated. The +boiling-point of water showed it to be about 900 feet above the river, +which was of the level of Linyanti. These hills seemed to my men of +prodigious altitude, for they had been accustomed to ant-hills only. +The mention of mountains that pierced the clouds made them draw in their +breath and hold their hands to their mouths. And when I told them that +their previous description of Taba cheu had led me to expect something +of the sort, I found that the idea of a cloud-capped mountain had never +entered into their heads. The mountains certainly look high, from having +abrupt sides; but I had recognized the fact by the point of ebullition +of water, that they are of a considerably lower altitude than the top of +the ridge we had left. They constitute, in fact, a sort of low fringe +on the outside of the eastern ridge, exactly as the (apparently) high +mountains of Angola (Golungo Alto) form an outer low fringe to the +western ridge. I was much struck by the similarity of conformation +and nature of the rocks on both sides of the continent; but there is +a difference in the structure of the subtending ridges, as may be +understood by the annexed ideal geological section. + + +*[The ASCII edition cannot include the drawing of the cross-section, +but the comments are included in full.--A. L., 1997.] + + + IDEAL SECTION ACROSS SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA, + INTENDED TO SHOW THE ELEVATED VALLEY FORM OF THAT PORTION OF THE CONTINENT. + -------------------------------------- + + WEST. + + [Terrain] [Remarks] + + Sea. CALCAREOUS TUFA. + + TRAP. With modern shells, and similar to those now found + in the sea adjacent, with strongly magnetic iron ore. + + MICA SCHIST. Dipping East. + + SANDSTONE (like that of East Africa). The rocks + Pungo Andongo. of Pungo Andongo are a conglomerate of rounded shingle in + Rocks 4000 feet. a matrix of sandstone, and stand on horizontal sandstone, + on which fossil palms appear. + + Fault. + + RED SHALES CAPPED BY FERRUGINOUS CONGLOMERATE. + Soft red shale or "keele". + + G| 5000 feet. + R| Water boils + E| at 202 Deg. + A| On top, ferruginous conglomerate; below that, red shale, + T| 4500 feet. with banks of gravel. + | Lake Dilolo. + C| TUFA AND TRAP. In Londa, the bottom of the valley + E| 2500 feet. is formed of ferruginous conglomerate on the surface; + N| Lake Ngami. hardened sandstone, with madrepore holes, + T| banks of gravel, and occasionally trap; + R| south of 12 Degrees, large patches of soft + A| TUFA. calcareous tufa, with pebbles of jasper, + L| agates, &c., lie on various horizontal traps, + | amygdaloids with analami and mesotype, which is + P| burst through by basaltic rocks forming hills, + L| and showing that the bottom of the valley + A| RADIATED ZEOLITE. consists of old silurian schists; + T| there are also various granitic rocks + E| cropping through the trap. + A| + U| BASALTIC ROCKS. Augitic porphyry and basalt, + .| with tufa over it. + + Place of Great Cataract. + + MICA SCHIST. White mica schist dipping west, and gneiss. + + 5000 feet. Kalomo. + Water boils GRANITE. With black mica. + at 202 Deg. + + MICA SCHIST. White mica schist and white marble. + + Hill tops TRAP. Hot fountain; conical hills of igneous rocks, + 4000 feet. containing much mica. + Bottoms 3500 feet. + + MICA SCHIST. Pink marble dolomite, + on hills of mica schist, of various colours, with trap, + schorl in gneiss, kyanite or disthene gneissose mica + in the schist. + + 1500 ft. COAL IN SANDSTONE. Specular and magnetic iron + on various igneous rocks; finely laminated porphyry; + granite; hot fountain. + + Sandstone overlying coal; trap dykes; + syenitic porphyry dykes; black vesicular trap, + penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country, + converting it into porcellanite, and partially + crystallizing the coal. On this sandstone + lie fossil palms, and coniferous trees + converted into silica, as on a similar rock in Angola. + + COMPACT SILICEOUS SCHIST. + + IGNEOUS ROCKS. Trappean rocks, with hot fountain. + + CALCAREOUS TUFA. Arkose, or granitic grit, + with modern shells covered by calcareous tufa. + Sea. + + EAST. + + +The heights are given as an approximation obtained from observing +the boiling point of water, they are drawn on a scale of 1/10 of an inch +per 1000 feet in altitude. The section is necessarily exaggerated +in longitude, as it was traversed in different latitudes, +the western side being in 8d-12d, the eastern 15d-18d S. + + +We can see from this hill five distinct ranges, of which Bolengo is the +most westerly, and Komanga is the most easterly. The second is named +Sekonkamena, and the third Funze. Very many conical hills appear among +them, and they are generally covered with trees. On their tops we have +beautiful white quartz rocks, and some have a capping of dolomite. +On the west of the second range we have great masses of kyanite or +disthene, and on the flanks of the third and fourth a great deal +of specular iron ore which is magnetic, and containing a very large +percentage of the metal. The sides of these ranges are generally very +precipitous, and there are rivulets between which are not perennial. +Many of the hills have been raised by granite, exactly like that of the +Kalomo. Dikes of this granite may be seen thrusting up immense masses of +mica schist and quartz or sandstone schist, and making the strata fold +over them on each side, as clothes hung upon a line. The uppermost +stratum is always dolomite or bright white quartz. Semalembue intended +that we should go a little to the northeast, and pass through the people +called Babimpe, and we saw some of that people, who invited us to come +that way on account of its being smoother; but, feeling anxious to get +back to the Zambesi again, we decided to cross the hills toward its +confluence with the Kafue. The distance, which in a straight line is but +small, occupied three days. The precipitous nature of the sides of this +mass of hills knocked up the oxen and forced us to slaughter two, one of +which, a very large one, and ornamented with upward of thirty pieces of +its own skin detached and hanging down, Sekeletu had wished us to take +to the white people as a specimen of his cattle. We saw many elephants +among the hills, and my men ran off and killed three. When we came to +the top of the outer range of the hills we had a glorious view. At +a short distance below us we saw the Kafue, wending away over a +forest-clad plain to the confluence, and on the other side of the +Zambesi, beyond that, lay a long range of dark hills. A line of fleecy +clouds appeared lying along the course of that river at their base. The +plain below us, at the left of the Kafue, had more large game on it than +any where else I had seen in Africa. Hundreds of buffaloes and zebras +grazed on the open spaces, and there stood lordly elephants feeding +majestically, nothing moving apparently but the proboscis. I wished that +I had been able to take a photograph of a scene so seldom beheld, and +which is destined, as guns increase, to pass away from earth. When we +descended we found all the animals remarkably tame. The elephants stood +beneath the trees, fanning themselves with their large ears, as if they +did not see us at 200 or 300 yards distance. The number of animals was +quite astonishing, and made me think that here I could realize an image +of that time when Megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval forests. We +saw great numbers of red-colored pigs ('Potamochoerus') standing gazing +at us in wonder. The people live on the hills, and, having no guns, +seldom disturb the game. They have never been visited, even by +half-castes; but Babisa traders have come occasionally. Continuous rains +kept us for some time on the banks of the Chiponga, and here we were +unfortunate enough to come among the tsetse. Mr. J. N. Gray, of the +British Museum, has kindly obliged me with a drawing of the insect, +with the ravages of which I have unfortunately been too familiar. (For +description, see p. 94-96 [Chapter 4 Paragraphs 16-20].) No. 1 is the +insect somewhat smaller than life, from the specimen having contracted +in drying; they are a little larger than the common house-fly. No. 2 +is the insect magnified; and No. 3 shows the magnified proboscis and +poison-bulb at the root.* + + * Unfortunately, these illustrations can not be presented in + this ASCII text. Fortunately, information on the Tsetse is no + longer difficult to find. The "somewhat smaller than life" + drawing is about 1 cm from head to tail, not including wings + or proboscis.--A. L., 1997. + +We tried to leave one morning, but the rain coming on afresh brought us +to a stand, and after waiting an hour, wet to the skin, we were fain to +retrace our steps to our sheds. These rains were from the east, and the +clouds might be seen on the hills exactly as the "Table-cloth" on Table +Mountain. This was the first wetting we had got since we left Sesheke, +for I had gained some experience in traveling. In Londa we braved the +rain, and, as I despised being carried in our frequent passage through +running water, I was pretty constantly drenched; but now, when we saw a +storm coming, we invariably halted. The men soon pulled grass sufficient +to make a little shelter for themselves by placing it on a bush, and, +having got my camp-stool and umbrella, with a little grass under my +feet, I kept myself perfectly dry. We also lighted large fires, and the +men were not chilled by streams of water running down their persons, and +abstracting the heat, as they would have been had they been exposed to +the rain. When it was over they warmed themselves by the fires, and we +traveled on comfortably. The effect of this care was, that we had much +less sickness than with a smaller party in journeying to Loanda. Another +improvement made from my experience was avoiding an entire change of +diet. In going to Loanda I took little or no European food, in order not +to burden my men and make them lose spirit, but trusted entirely to what +might be got by the gun and the liberality of the Balonda; but on this +journey I took some flour which had been left in the wagon, with +some got on the island, and baked my own bread all the way in an +extemporaneous oven made by an inverted pot. With these precautions, +aided, no doubt, by the greater healthiness of the district over which +we passed, I enjoyed perfect health. + +When we left the Chipongo on the 30th we passed among the range of hills +on our left, which are composed of mica and clay slate. At the bottom we +found a forest of large silicified trees, all lying as if the elevation +of the range had made them fall away from it, and toward the river. An +ordinary-sized tree standing on end, measured 22 inches in diameter: +there were 12 laminae to the inch. These are easily counted, because +there is usually a scale of pure silica between each, which has not +been so much affected by the weather as the rest of the ring itself: the +edges of the rings thus stand out plainly. Mr. Quekett, having kindly +examined some specimens, finds that it is "silicified CONIFEROUS WOOD +of the ARAUCARIAN type; and the nearest allied wood that he knows of is +that found, also in a fossil state, in New South Wales." The numbers +of large game were quite astonishing. I never saw elephants so tame as +those near the Chiponga: they stood close to our path without being the +least afraid. This is different from their conduct where they have been +accustomed to guns, for there they take alarm at the distance of a mile, +and begin to run if a shot is fired even at a longer distance. My men +killed another here, and rewarded the villagers of the Chiponga for +their liberality in meal by loading them with flesh. We spent a night +at a baobab, which was hollow, and would hold twenty men inside. It had +been used as a lodging-house by the Babisa. + +As we approached nearer the Zambesi, the country became covered with +broad-leaved bushes, pretty thickly planted, and we had several times +to shout to elephants to get out of our way. At an open space, a herd +of buffaloes came trotting up to look at our oxen, and it was only by +shooting one that I made them retreat. The meat is very much like +that of an ox, and this one was very fine. The only danger we actually +encountered was from a female elephant, with three young ones of +different sizes. Charging through the centre of our extended line, +and causing the men to throw down their burdens in a great hurry, she +received a spear for her temerity. I never saw an elephant with more +than one calf before. We knew that we were near our Zambesi again, +even before the great river burst upon our sight, by the numbers of +water-fowl we met. I killed four geese with two shots, and, had I +followed the wishes of my men, could have secured a meal of water-fowl +for the whole party. I never saw a river with so much animal life around +and in it, and, as the Barotse say, "Its fish and fowl are always fat." +When our eyes were gladdened by a view of its goodly broad waters, we +found it very much larger than it is even above the falls. One might try +to make his voice heard across it in vain. Its flow was more rapid than +near Sesheke, being often four and a half miles an hour, and, what I +never saw before, the water was discolored and of a deep brownish-red. +In the great valley the Leeambye never becomes of this color. The +adjacent country, so far north as is known, is all level, and the soil, +being generally covered with dense herbage, is not abraded; but on +the eastern ridge the case is different; the grass is short, and, the +elevation being great, the soil is washed down by the streams, and hence +the discoloration which we now view. The same thing was observed on the +western ridge. We never saw discoloration till we reached the Quango; +that obtained its matter from the western slope of the western ridge, +just as this part of the Zambesi receives its soil from the eastern +slope of the eastern ridge. It carried a considerable quantity of wreck +of reeds, sticks, and trees. We struck upon the river about eight miles +east of the confluence with the Kafue, and thereby missed a sight of +that interesting point. The cloudiness of the weather was such that +but few observations could be made for determining our position; so, +pursuing our course, we went down the left bank, and came opposite the +island of Menye makaba. The Zambesi contains numerous islands; this was +about a mile and a half or two miles long, and upward of a quarter of +a mile broad. Besides human population, it has a herd of buffaloes that +never leave it. In the distance they seemed to be upward of sixty. The +human and brute inhabitants understand each other; for when the former +think they ought to avenge the liberties committed on their gardens, the +leaders of the latter come out boldly to give battle. They told us that +the only time in which they can thin them is when the river is full and +part of the island flooded. They then attack them from their canoes. The +comparatively small space to which they have confined themselves shows +how luxuriant the vegetation of this region is; for were they in want +of more pasture, as buffaloes can swim well, and the distance from this +bank to the island is not much more than 200 yards, they might easily +remove hither. The opposite bank is much more distant. + +Ranges of hills appear now to run parallel with the Zambesi, and are +about fifteen miles apart. Those on the north approach nearest to the +river. The inhabitants on that side are the Batonga, those on the south +bank are the Banyai. The hills abound in buffaloes, and elephants are +numerous, and many are killed by the people on both banks. They erect +stages on high trees overhanging the paths by which the elephants come, +and then use a large spear with a handle nearly as thick as a man's +wrist, and four or five feet long. When the animal comes beneath they +throw the spear, and if it enters between the ribs above, as the blade +is at least twenty inches long by two broad, the motion of the handle, +as it is aided by knocking against the trees, makes frightful gashes +within, and soon causes death. They kill them also by means of a spear +inserted in a beam of wood, which being suspended on the branch of a +tree by a cord attached to a latch fastened in the path, and intended to +be struck by the animal's foot, leads to the fall of the beam, and, the +spear being poisoned, causes death in a few hours. + +We were detained by continuous rains several days at this island. The +clouds rested upon the tops of the hills as they came from the eastward, +and then poured down plenteous showers on the valleys below. As soon as +we could move, Tomba Nyama, the head man of the island, volunteered the +loan of a canoe to cross a small river, called the Chongwe, which we +found to be about fifty or sixty yards broad and flooded. All this part +of the country was well known to Sekwebu, and he informed us that, when +he passed through it as a boy, the inhabitants possessed abundance of +cattle, and there were no tsetse. The existence of the insect now shows +that it may return in company with the larger game. The vegetation along +the bank was exceedingly rank, and the bushes so tangled that it was +difficult to get on. The paths had been made by the wild animals alone, +for the general pathway of the people is the river, in their canoes. We +usually followed the footpaths of the game, and of these there was no +lack. Buffaloes, zebras, pallahs, and waterbucks abound, and there is +also a great abundance of wild pigs, koodoos, and the black antelope. +We got one buffalo as he was rolling himself in a pool of mud. He had a +large piece of skin torn off his flank, it was believed by an alligator. + +We were struck by the fact that, as soon as we came between the ranges +of hills which flank the Zambesi, the rains felt warm. At sunrise the +thermometer stood at from 82 Deg. to 86 Deg.; at midday, in the coolest +shade, namely, in my little tent, under a shady tree, at 96 Deg. to 98 +Deg.; and at sunset it was 86 Deg. This is different from any thing +we experienced in the interior, for these rains always bring down the +mercury to 72 Deg. or even 68 Deg. There, too, we found a small black +coleopterous insect, which stung like the mosquito, but injected less +poison; it puts us in mind of that insect, which does not exist in the +high lands we had left. + +JANUARY 6TH, 1856. Each village we passed furnished us with a couple of +men to take us on to the next. They were useful in showing us the parts +least covered with jungle. When we came near a village, we saw men, +women, and children employed in weeding their gardens, they being great +agriculturists. Most of the men are muscular, and have large plowman +hands. Their color is the same admixture, from very dark to light olive, +that we saw in Londa. Though all have thick lips and flat noses, only +the more degraded of the population possess the ugly negro physiognomy. +They mark themselves by a line of little raised cicatrices, each of +which is a quarter of an inch long; they extend from the tip of the nose +to the root of the hair on the forehead. It is remarkable that I never +met with an Albino in crossing Africa, though, from accounts published +by the Portuguese, I was led to expect that they were held in favor as +doctors by certain chiefs. I saw several in the south: one at Kuruman +is a full-grown woman, and a man having this peculiarity of skin was met +with in the colony. Their bodies are always blistered on exposure to +the sun, as the skin is more tender than that of the blacks. The Kuruman +woman lived some time at Kolobeng, and generally had on her bosom and +shoulders the remains of large blisters. She was most anxious to be +made black, but nitrate of silver, taken internally, did not produce its +usual effect. During the time I resided at Mabotsa, a woman came to the +station with a fine boy, an Albino. The father had ordered her to +throw him away, but she clung to her offspring for many years. He was +remarkably intelligent for his age. The pupil of the eye was of a pink +color, and the eye itself was unsteady in vision. The hair, or +rather wool, was yellow, and the features were those common among the +Bechuanas. After I left the place the mother is said to have become +tired of living apart from the father, who refused to have her while she +retained the son. She took him out one day, and killed him close to the +village of Mabotsa, and nothing was done to her by the authorities. From +having met with no Albinos in Londa, I suspect they are there also put +to death. We saw one dwarf only in Londa, and brands on him showed he +had once been a slave; and there is one dwarf woman at Linyanti. The +general absence of deformed persons is partly owing to their destruction +in infancy, and partly to the mode of life being a natural one, so far +as ventilation and food are concerned. They use but few unwholesome +mixtures as condiments, and, though their undress exposes them to the +vicissitudes of the temperature, it does not harbor vomites. It was +observed that, when smallpox and measles visited the country, they were +most severe on the half-castes who were clothed. In several tribes, a +child which is said to "tlola", transgress, is put to death. "Tlolo", or +transgression, is ascribed to several curious cases. A child who cut +the upper front teeth before the under was always put to death among the +Bakaa, and, I believe, also among the Bakwains. In some tribes, a case +of twins renders one of them liable to death; and an ox, which, while +lying in the pen, beats the ground with its tail, is treated in the same +way. It is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe. When I was +coming through Londa, my men carried a great number of fowls, of a +larger breed than any they had at home. If one crowed before midnight, +it had been guilty of "tlolo", and was killed. The men often carried +them sitting on their guns, and, if one began to crow in a forest, the +owner would give it a beating, by way of teaching it not to be guilty of +crowing at unseasonable hours. + +The women here are in the habit of piercing the upper lip, and gradually +enlarging the orifice until they can insert a shell. The lip then +appears drawn out beyond the perpendicular of the nose, and gives them a +most ungainly aspect. Sekwebu remarked, "These women want to make their +mouths like those of ducks;" and, indeed, it does appear as if they +had the idea that female beauty of lip had been attained by the +'Ornithorhynchus paradoxus' alone. This custom prevails throughout the +country of the Maravi, and no one could see it without confessing that +fashion had never led women to a freak more mad. We had rains now every +day, and considerable cloudiness, but the sun often burst through with +scorching intensity. All call out against it then, saying, "O the sun! +that is rain again." It was worth noticing that my companions never +complained of the heat while on the highlands, but when we descended +into the lowlands of Angola, and here also, they began to fret on +account of it. I myself felt an oppressive steaminess in the atmosphere +which I had not experienced on the higher lands. + +As the game was abundant and my party very large, I had still to supply +their wants with the gun. We slaughtered the oxen only when unsuccessful +in hunting. We always entered into friendly relations with the head +men of the different villages, and they presented grain and other food +freely. One man gave a basinful of rice, the first we met with in the +country. It is never seen in the interior. He said he knew it was "white +man's corn", and when I wished to buy some more, he asked me to give him +a slave. This was the first symptom of the slave-trade on this side of +the country. The last of these friendly head men was named Mobala; and +having passed him in peace, we had no anticipation of any thing else; +but, after a few hours, we reached Selole or Chilole, and found that +he not only considered us enemies, but had actually sent an express to +raise the tribe of Mburuma against us. All the women of Selole had fled, +and the few people we met exhibited symptoms of terror. An armed party +had come from Mburuma in obedience to the call; but the head man of the +company, being Mburuma's brother, suspecting that it was a hoax, came to +our encampment and told us the whole. When we explained our objects, he +told us that Mburuma, he had no doubt, would receive us well. The reason +why Selole acted in this foolish manner we afterward found to be this: +an Italian named Simoens, and nicknamed Siriatomba (don't eat tobacco), +had married the daughter of a chief called Sekokole, living north of +Tete. He armed a party of fifty slaves with guns, and, ascending the +river in canoes some distance beyond the island Meya makaba, attacked +several inhabited islands beyond, securing a large number of prisoners, +and much ivory. On his return, the different chiefs, at the instigation +of his father-in-law, who also did not wish him to set up as a chief, +united, attacked and dispersed the party of Simoens, and killed him +while trying to escape on foot. Selole imagined that I was another +Italian, or, as he expressed it, "Siriatomba risen from the dead." In +his message to Mburuma he even said that Mobala, and all the villages +beyond, were utterly destroyed by our fire-arms, but the sight of Mobala +himself, who had come to the village of Selole, led the brother of +Mburuma to see at once that it was all a hoax. But for this, the foolish +fellow Selole might have given us trouble. + +We saw many of the liberated captives of this Italian among the villages +here, and Sekwebu found them to be Matebele. The brother of Mburuma had +a gun, which was the first we had seen in coming eastward. Before we +reached Mburuma my men went to attack a troop of elephants, as they were +much in need of meat. When the troop began to run, one of them fell +into a hole, and before he could extricate himself an opportunity was +afforded for all the men to throw their spears. When he rose he was like +a huge porcupine, for each of the seventy or eighty men had discharged +more than one spear at him. As they had no more, they sent for me to +finish him. In order to put him at once out of pain, I went to within +twenty yards, there being a bank between us which he could not readily +climb. I rested the gun upon an ant-hill so as to take a steady aim; +but, though I fired twelve two-ounce bullets, all I had, into different +parts, I could not kill him. As it was becoming dark, I advised my men +to let him stand, being sure of finding him dead in the morning; but, +though we searched all the next day, and went more than ten miles, we +never saw him again. I mention this to young men who may think that they +will be able to hunt elephants on foot by adopting the Ceylon practice +of killing them by one ball in the brain. I believe that in Africa the +practice of standing before an elephant, expecting to kill him with one +shot, would be certain death to the hunter; and I would add, for the +information of those who may think that, because I met with a great +abundance of game here, they also might find rare sport, that the tsetse +exists all along both banks of the Zambesi, and there can be no hunting +by means of horses. Hunting on foot in this climate is such excessively +hard work, that I feel certain the keenest sportsman would very soon +turn away from it in disgust. I myself was rather glad, when furnished +with the excuse that I had no longer any balls, to hand over all the +hunting to my men, who had no more love for the sport than myself, as +they never engaged in it except when forced by hunger. + +Some of them gave me a hint to melt down my plate by asking if it were +not lead. I had two pewter plates and a piece of zinc which I now melted +into bullets. I also spent the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying +spears for them. My men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes and +killed numbers of the calves. I, too, exerted myself greatly; but, as +I am now obliged to shoot with the left arm, I am a bad shot, and this, +with the lightness of the bullets, made me very unsuccessful. The more +the hunger, the less my success, invariably. + +I may here add an adventure with an elephant of one who has had more +narrow escapes than any man living, but whose modesty has always +prevented him from publishing any thing about himself. When we were on +the banks of the Zouga in 1850, Mr. Oswell pursued one of these animals +into the dense, thick, thorny bushes met with on the margin of that +river, and to which the elephant usually flees for safety. He followed +through a narrow pathway by lifting up some of the branches and +forcing his way through the rest; but, when he had just got over this +difficulty, he saw the elephant, whose tail he had but got glimpses +of before, now rushing toward him. There was then no time to lift up +branches, so he tried to force the horse through them. He could not +effect a passage; and, as there was but an instant between the attempt +and failure, the hunter tried to dismount, but in doing this one foot +was caught by a branch, and the spur drawn along the animal's flank; +this made him spring away and throw the rider on the ground with his +face to the elephant, which, being in full chase, still went on. Mr. +Oswell saw the huge fore foot about to descend on his legs, parted them, +and drew in his breath as if to resist the pressure of the other foot, +which he expected would next descend on his body. He saw the whole +length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over him; the horse +got away safely. I have heard of but one other authentic instance in +which an elephant went over a man without injury, and, for any one who +knows the nature of the bush in which this occurred, the very thought +of an encounter in it with such a foe is appalling. As the thorns are +placed in pairs on opposite sides of the branches, and these turn round +on being pressed against, one pair brings the other exactly into the +position in which it must pierce the intruder. They cut like knives. +Horses dread this bush extremely; indeed, most of them refuse to face +its thorns. + +On reaching Mburuma's village, his brother came to meet us. We explained +the reason of our delay, and he told us that we were looked upon with +alarm. He said that Siriatomba had been killed near the village of +Selole, and hence that man's fears. He added that the Italian had come +talking of peace, as we did, but had kidnapped children and bought ivory +with them, and that we were supposed to be following the same calling. I +pointed to my men, and asked if any of these were slaves, and if we had +any children among them, and I think we satisfied him that we were true +men. Referring to our ill success in hunting the day before, he said, +"The man at whose village you remained was in fault in allowing you to +want meat, for he had only to run across to Mburuma; he would have +given him a little meal, and, having sprinkled that on the ground as an +offering to the gods, you would have found your elephant." The chiefs in +these parts take upon themselves an office somewhat like the priesthood, +and the people imagine that they can propitiate the Deity through them. +In illustration of their ideas, it may be mentioned that, when we were +among the tribes west of Semalembue, several of the people came forward +and introduced themselves--one as a hunter of elephants, another as +a hunter of hippopotami, a third as a digger of pitfalls--apparently +wishing me to give them medicine for success in their avocations, as +well as to cure the diseases of those to whom I was administering the +drugs. I thought they attributed supernatural power to them, for, like +all Africans, they have unbounded faith in the efficacy of charms; but +I took pains to let them know that they must pray and trust to another +power than mine for aid. We never saw Mburuma himself, and the conduct +of his people indicated very strong suspicions, though he gave us +presents of meal, maize, and native corn. His people never came near us +except in large bodies and fully armed. We had to order them to place +their bows, arrows, and spears at a distance before entering our +encampment. We did not, however, care much for a little trouble now, as +we hoped that, if we could pass this time without much molestation, +we might yet be able to return with ease, and without meeting sour, +suspicious looks. + +The soil, glancing every where with mica, is very fertile, and all the +valleys are cultivated, the maize being now in ear and eatable. Ranges +of hills, which line both banks of the river above this, now come close +up to each bank, and form a narrow gorge, which, like all others of the +same nature, is called Mpata. There is a narrow pathway by the side of +the river, but we preferred a more open one in a pass among the hills to +the east, which is called Mohango. The hills rise to a height of 800 +or 1000 feet, and are all covered with trees. The rocks were of various +colored mica schist; and parallel with the Zambesi lay a broad band +of gneiss with garnets in it. It stood on edge, and several dikes of +basalt, with dolerite, had cut through it. + +Mburuma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. These men tried to bring +us to a stand, at a distance of about six miles from the village, by the +notice, "Mburuma says you are to sleep under that tree." On declining +to do this, we were told that we must wait at a certain village for a +supply of corn. As none appeared in an hour, I proceeded on the march. +It is not quite certain that their intentions were hostile, but this +seemed to disarrange their plans, and one of them was soon observed +running back to Mburuma. They had first of all tried to separate our +party by volunteering the loan of a canoe to convey Sekwebu and me, +together with our luggage, by way of the river, and, as it was pressed +upon us, I thought that this was their design. The next attempt was to +detain us in the pass; but, betraying no suspicion, we civilly declined +to place ourselves in their power in an unfavorable position. We +afterward heard that a party of Babisa traders, who came from the +northeast, bringing English goods from Mozambique, had been plundered by +this same people. + +Elephants were still abundant, but more wild, as they fled with great +speed as soon as we made our appearance. The country between Mburuma's +and his mother's village was all hilly and very difficult, and prevented +us from traveling more than ten miles a day. At the village of Ma +Mburuma (mother of Mburuma), the guides, who had again joined us, gave a +favorable report, and the women and children did not flee. Here we +found that traders, called Bazunga, have been in the habit of coming +in canoes, and that I was named as one of them. These I supposed to be +half-caste Portuguese, for they said that the hair of their heads and +the skin beneath their clothing were different from mine. Ma Mburuma +promised us canoes to cross the Loangwa in our front. It was pleasant +to see great numbers of men, women, and boys come, without suspicion, +to look at the books, watch, looking-glass, revolver, etc. They are a +strong, muscular race, and both men and women are seen cultivating the +ground. The soil contains so much comminuted talc and mica from the +adjacent hills that it seems as if mixed with spermaceti. They generally +eat their corn only after it has begun to sprout from steeping it in +water. The deformed lips of the women make them look very ugly; I never +saw one smile. The people in this part seem to understand readily what +is spoken about God, for they listen with great attention, and tell in +return their own ideas of departed spirits. The position of the village +of Mburuma's mother was one of great beauty, quite inclosed by high, +steep hills; and the valleys are all occupied by gardens of native corn +and maize, which grow luxuriantly. We were obliged to hurry along, +for the oxen were bitten daily by the tsetse, which, as I have before +remarked, now inhabits extensive tracts which once supported herds +of cattle that were swept off by Mpakane and other marauders, whose +devastations were well known to Sekwebu, for he himself had been an +actor in the scenes. When he told me of them he always lowered his +voice, in order that the guides might not hear that he had been one of +their enemies. But that we were looked upon with suspicion, on account +of having come in the footsteps of invaders, was evident from our guides +remarking to men in the gardens through which we passed, "They have +words of peace--all very fine; but lies only, as the Bazunga are great +liars." They thought we did not understand them; but Sekwebu knew every +word perfectly; and, without paying any ostensible attention to these +complimentary remarks, we always took care to explain ever afterward +that we were not Bazunga, but Makoa (English). + + + + +Chapter 29. + +Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi--Hostile Appearances--Ruins of a +Church--Turmoil of Spirit--Cross the River--Friendly Parting--Ruins of +stone Houses--The Situation of Zumbo for Commerce--Pleasant Gardens--Dr. +Lacerda's Visit to Cazembe--Pereira's Statement--Unsuccessful Attempt +to establish Trade with the People of Cazembe--One of my Men tossed by a +Buffalo--Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on--Hear of the Portuguese and +native War--Holms and Terraces on the Banks of a River--Dancing for +Corn--Beautiful Country--Mpende's Hostility--Incantations--A Fight +anticipated--Courage and Remarks of my Men--Visit from two old +Councilors of Mpende--Their Opinion of the English--Mpende concludes +not to fight us--His subsequent Friendship--Aids us to cross +the River--The Country--Sweet Potatoes--Bakwain Theory of Rain +confirmed--Thunder without Clouds--Desertion of one of my Men--Other +Natives' Ideas of the English--Dalama (gold)--Inhabitants dislike +Slave-buyers--Meet native Traders with American Calico--Game-laws-- +Elephant Medicine--Salt from the Sand--Fertility of Soil--Spotted +Hyaena--Liberality and Politeness of the People--Presents--A stingy +white Trader--Natives' Remarks about him--Effect on their Minds--Rain +and Wind now from an opposite Direction--Scarcity of Fuel--Trees +for Boat-building--Boroma--Freshets--Leave the River--Chicova, +its Geological Features--Small Rapid near Tete--Loquacious +Guide--Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer--An old Man--No +Silver--Gold-washing--No Cattle. + + + +14TH. We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and the Zambesi, most +thankful to God for his great mercies in helping us thus far. Mburuma's +people had behaved so suspiciously, that, though we had guides from him, +we were by no means sure that we should not be attacked in crossing +the Loangwa. We saw them here collecting in large numbers, and, though +professing friendship, they kept at a distance from our camp. They +refused to lend us more canoes than two, though they have many. They +have no intercourse with Europeans except through the Babisa. They tell +us that this was formerly the residence of the Bazunga, and maintain +silence as to the cause of their leaving it. I walked about some ruins +I discovered, built of stone, and found the remains of a church, and on +one side lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a cross, but +no date. There were no inscriptions on stone, and the people could not +tell what the Bazunga called their place. We found afterward it was +Zumbo. + +I felt some turmoil of spirit in the evening at the prospect of having +all my efforts for the welfare of this great region and its teeming +population knocked on the head by savages to-morrow, who might be said +to "know not what they do." It seemed such a pity that the important +fact of the existence of the two healthy ridges which I had discovered +should not become known in Christendom, for a confirmation would thereby +have been given to the idea that Africa is not open to the Gospel. But +I read that Jesus said, "All power is given unto me in heaven and on +earth; go ye, therefore, and teach all nations . . . and lo, I AM WITH +YOU ALWAY, EVEN UNTO THE END OF THE WORLD." I took this as His word +of honor, and then went out to take observations for latitude and +longitude, which, I think, were very successful. (The church: lat. 15d +37' 22" S., long. 30d 32' E.) + +15TH. The natives of the surrounding country collected around us this +morning, all armed. The women and children were sent away, and one of +Mburuma's wives, who lives in the vicinity, was not allowed to approach, +though she had come from her village to pay me a visit. Only one canoe +was lent to us, though we saw two others tied to the bank. The part +we crossed was about a mile from the confluence, and, as it was now +flooded, it seemed upward of half a mile in breadth. We passed all our +goods first on to an island in the middle, then the remaining cattle and +men; occupying the post of honor, I, as usual, was the last to enter +the canoe. A number of the inhabitants stood armed all the time we were +embarking. I showed them my watch, lens, and other things to keep them +amused, until there only remained those who were to enter the canoe with +me. I thanked them for their kindness, and wished them peace. After all, +they may have been influenced only by the intention to be ready in +case I should play them some false trick, for they have reason to be +distrustful of the whites. The guides came over to bid us adieu, and we +sat under a mango-tree fifteen feet in circumference. We found them more +communicative now. They said that the land on both sides belonged to the +Bazunga, and that they had left of old, on the approach of Changamera, +Ngaba, and Mpakane. Sekwebu was with the last named, but he maintained +that they never came to the confluence, though they carried off all the +cattle of Mburuma. The guides confirmed this by saying that the Bazunga +were not attacked, but fled in alarm on the approach of the enemy. This +mango-tree he knew by its proper name, and we found seven others and +several tamarinds, and were informed that the chief Mburuma sends men +annually to gather the fruit, but, like many Africans whom I have known, +has not had patience to propagate more trees. I gave them some little +presents for themselves, a handkerchief and a few beads, and they were +highly pleased with a cloth of red baize for Mburuma, which Sekeletu had +given me to purchase a canoe. We were thankful to part good friends. + +Next morning we passed along the bottom of the range, called Mazanzwe, +and found the ruins of eight or ten stone houses. They all faced the +river, and were high enough up the flanks of the hill Mazanzwe to +command a pleasant view of the broad Zambesi. These establishments +had all been built on one plan--a house on one side of a large court, +surrounded by a wall; both houses and walls had been built of soft gray +sandstone cemented together with mud. The work had been performed by +slaves ignorant of building, for the stones were not often placed so as +to cover the seams below. Hence you frequently find the joinings forming +one seam from the top to the bottom. Much mortar or clay had been used +to cover defects, and now trees of the fig family grow upon the walls, +and clasp them with their roots. When the clay is moistened, masses +of the walls come down by wholesale. Some of the rafters and beams had +fallen in, but were entire, and there were some trees in the middle of +the houses as large as a man's body. On the opposite or south bank of +the Zambesi we saw the remains of a wall on a height which was probably +a fort, and the church stood at a central point, formed by the right +bank of the Loangwa and the left of the Zambesi. + +The situation of Zumbo was admirably well chosen as a site for commerce. +Looking backward we see a mass of high, dark mountains, covered with +trees; behind us rises the fine high hill Mazanzwe, which stretches away +northward along the left bank of the Loangwa; to the S.E. lies an open +country, with a small round hill in the distance called Tofulo. The +merchants, as they sat beneath the verandahs in front of their houses, +had a magnificent view of the two rivers at their confluence; of their +church at the angle; and of all the gardens which they had on both sides +of the rivers. In these they cultivated wheat without irrigation, and, +as the Portuguese assert, of a grain twice the size of that at Tete. +From the guides we learned that the inhabitants had not imbibed much +idea of Christianity, for they used the same term for the church bell +which they did for a diviner's drum. From this point the merchants had +water communication in three directions beyond, namely, from the Loangwa +to the N.N.W., by the Kafue to the W., and by the Zambesi to the S.W. +Their attention, however, was chiefly attracted to the N. or Londa; +and the principal articles of trade were ivory and slaves. Private +enterprise was always restrained, for the colonies of the Portuguese +being strictly military, and the pay of the commandants being very +small, the officers have always been obliged to engage in trade; and +had they not employed their power to draw the trade to themselves by +preventing private traders from making bargains beyond the villages, +and only at regulated prices, they would have had no trade, as they +themselves were obliged to remain always at their posts. + +Several expeditions went to the north as far as to Cazembe, and Dr. +Lacerda, himself commandant of Tete, went to that chief's residence. +Unfortunately, he was cut off while there, and his papers, taken +possession of by a Jesuit who accompanied him, were lost to the world. +This Jesuit probably intended to act fairly and have them published; +but soon after his return he was called away by death himself, and the +papers were lost sight of. Dr. Lacerda had a strong desire to open up +communication with Angola, which would have been of importance then, as +affording a speedier mode of communication with Portugal than by the way +of the Cape; but since the opening of the overland passage to India, a +quicker transit is effected from Eastern Africa to Lisbon by way of the +Red Sea. Besides Lacerda, Cazembe was visited by Pereira, who gave a +glowing account of that chief's power, which none of my inquiries have +confirmed. The people of Matiamvo stated to me that Cazembe was a vassal +of their chief: and, from all the native visitors whom I have seen, +he appears to be exactly like Shinte and Katema, only a little more +powerful. The term "Emperor", which has been applied to him, seems +totally inappropriate. The statement of Pereira that twenty negroes were +slaughtered in a day, was not confirmed by any one else, though numbers +may have been killed on some particular occasion during the time of his +visit, for we find throughout all the country north of 20 Deg., which +I consider to be real negro, the custom of slaughtering victims to +accompany the departed soul of a chief, and human sacrifices are +occasionally offered, and certain parts of the bodies are used as +charms. It is on account of the existence of such rites, with the +similarity of the language, and the fact that the names of rivers are +repeated again and again from north to south through all that region, +that I consider them to have been originally one family. The last +expedition to Cazembe was somewhat of the same nature as the others, and +failed in establishing a commerce, because the people of Cazembe, who +had come to Tete to invite the Portuguese to visit them, had not been +allowed to trade with whom they might. As it had not been free-trade +there, Cazembe did not see why it should be free-trade at his town; he +accordingly would not allow his people to furnish the party with +food except at his price; and the expedition, being half starved in +consequence, came away voting unanimously that Cazembe was a great bore. + +When we left the Loangwa we thought we had got rid of the hills; but +there are some behind Mazanzwe, though five or six miles off from the +river. Tsetse and the hills had destroyed two riding oxen, and when the +little one that I now rode knocked up, I was forced to march on foot. +The bush being very dense and high, we were going along among the trees, +when three buffaloes, which we had unconsciously passed above the wind, +thought that they were surrounded by men, and dashed through our line. +My ox set off at a gallop, and when I could manage to glance back, I saw +one of the men up in the air about five feet above a buffalo, which was +tearing along with a stream of blood running down his flank. When I got +back to the poor fellow, I found that he had lighted on his face, and, +though he had been carried on the horns of the buffalo about twenty +yards before getting the final toss, the skin was not pierced nor was a +bone broken. When the beasts appeared, he had thrown down his load and +stabbed one in the side. It turned suddenly upon him, and, before he +could use a tree for defense, carried him off. We shampooed him well, +and then went on, and in about a week he was able to engage in the hunt +again. + +At Zumbo we had entered upon old gray sandstone, with shingle in it, +dipping generally toward the south, and forming the bed of the river. +The Zambesi is very broad here, but contains many inhabited islands. We +slept opposite one on the 16th called Shibanga. The nights are warm, the +temperature never falling below 80 Deg.; it was 91 Deg. even at sunset. +One can not cool the water by a wet towel round the vessel, and we feel +no pleasure in drinking warm water, though the heat makes us imbibe +large quantities. We often noticed lumps of a froth-like substance on +the bushes as large as cricket-balls, which we could not explain. + +On the morning of the 17th we were pleased to see a person coming from +the island of Shibanga with jacket and hat on. He was quite black, but +had come from the Portuguese settlement at Tete or Nyungwe; and now, for +the first time, we understood that the Portuguese settlement was on +the other bank of the river, and that they had been fighting with the +natives for the last two years. We had thus got into the midst of a +Caffre war, without any particular wish to be on either side. He advised +us to cross the river at once, as Mpende lived on this side. We had been +warned by the guides of Mburuma against him, for they said that if we +could get past Mpende we might reach the white men, but that he was +determined that no white man should pass him. Wishing to follow this +man's advice, we proposed to borrow his canoes; but, being afraid to +offend the lords of the river, he declined. The consequence was, we were +obliged to remain on the enemy's side. The next island belonged to a man +named Zungo, a fine, frank fellow, who brought us at once a present of +corn, bound in a peculiar way in grass. He freely accepted our apology +for having no present to give in return, as he knew that there were no +goods in the interior, and, besides, sent forward a recommendation to +his brother-in-law Pangola. The country adjacent to the river is covered +with dense bush, thorny and tangled, making one stoop or wait till the +men broke or held the branches on one side. There is much rank grass, +but it is not so high or rank as that of Angola. The maize, however, +which is grown here is equal in size to that which the Americans sell +for seed at the Cape. There is usually a holm adjacent to the river, +studded with villages and gardens. The holms are but partially +cultivated, and on the other parts grows rank and weedy grass. There is +then a second terrace, on which trees and bushes abound; and I thought +I could detect a third and higher steppe. But I never could discover +terraces on the adjacent country, such as in other countries show +ancient sea-beaches. The path runs sometimes on the one and sometimes on +the other of these river terraces. Canoes are essentially necessary; but +I find that they here cost too much for my means, and higher up, where +my hoes might have secured one, I was unwilling to enter into a canoe +and part with my men while there was danger of their being attacked. + +18TH. Yesterday we rested under a broad-spreading fig-tree. Large +numbers of buffaloes and water-antelopes were feeding quietly in the +meadows; the people have either no guns or no ammunition, or they would +not be so tame. Pangola visited us, and presented us with food. In +few other countries would one hundred and fourteen sturdy vagabonds be +supported by the generosity of the head men and villagers, and whatever +they gave be presented with politeness. My men got pretty well supplied +individually, for they went into the villages and commenced dancing. The +young women were especially pleased with the new steps they had to show, +though I suspect many of them were invented for the occasion, and would +say, "Dance for me, and I will grind corn for you." At every fresh +instance of liberality, Sekwebu said, "Did not I tell you that these +people had hearts, while we were still at Linyanti?" All agreed that the +character he had given was true, and some remarked, "Look! although we +have been so long away from home, not one of us has become lean." It was +a fact that we had been all well supplied either with meat by my gun or +their own spears, or food from the great generosity of the inhabitants. +Pangola promised to ferry us across the Zambesi, but failed to fulfill +his promise. He seemed to wish to avoid offending his neighbor Mpende +by aiding us to escape from his hands, so we proceeded along the bank. +Although we were in doubt as to our reception by Mpende, I could not +help admiring the beautiful country as we passed along. There is, +indeed, only a small part under cultivation in this fertile valley, but +my mind naturally turned to the comparison of it with Kolobeng, where we +waited anxiously during months for rain, and only a mere thunder-shower +followed. I shall never forget the dry, hot east winds of that region; +the yellowish, sultry, cloudless sky; the grass and all the plants +drooping from drought, the cattle lean, the people dispirited, and our +own hearts sick from hope deferred. There we often heard in the dead of +the night the shrill whistle of the rain-doctor calling for rain that +would not come, while here we listened to the rolling thunder by night, +and beheld the swelling valleys adorned with plenty by day. We have rain +almost daily, and every thing is beautifully fresh and green. I felt +somewhat as people do on coming ashore after a long voyage--inclined +to look upon the landscape in the most favorable light. The hills are +covered with forests, and there is often a long line of fleecy cloud +lying on them about midway up; they are very beautiful. Finding no one +willing to aid us in crossing the river, we proceeded to the village of +the chief Mpende. A fine large conical hill now appeared to the N.N.E.; +it is the highest I have seen in these parts, and at some points it +appears to be two cones joined together, the northern one being a little +lower than the southern. Another high hill stands on the same side to +the N.E., and, from its similarity in shape to an axe at the top, is +called Motemwa. Beyond it, eastward, lies the country of Kaimbwa, a +chief who has been engaged in actual conflict with the Bazunga, and +beat them too, according to the version of things here. The hills on +the north bank are named Kamoenja. When we came to Mpende's village, he +immediately sent to inquire who we were, and then ordered the guides +who had come with us from the last village to go back and call their +masters. He sent no message to us whatever. We had traveled very slowly +up to this point, the tsetse-stricken oxen being now unable to go two +miles an hour. We were also delayed by being obliged to stop at every +village, and send notice of our approach to the head man, who came and +received a little information, and gave some food. If we had passed +on without taking any notice of them, they would have considered it +impolite, and we should have appeared more as enemies than friends. +I consoled myself for the loss of time by the thought that these +conversations tended to the opening of our future path. + +23D. This morning, at sunrise, a party of Mpende's people came close +to our encampment, uttering strange cries and waving some bright red +substance toward us. They then lighted a fire with charms in it, and +departed, uttering the same hideous screams as before. This was intended +to render us powerless, and probably also to frighten us. Ever since +dawn, parties of armed men have been seen collecting from all quarters, +and numbers passed us while it was yet dark. Had we moved down the +river at once, it would have been considered an indication of fear or +defiance, and so would a retreat. I therefore resolved to wait, trusting +in Him who has the hearts of all men in His hands. They evidently +intended to attack us, for no friendly message was sent; and when three +of the Batoka the night before entered the village to beg food, a man +went round about each of them, making a noise like a lion. The villagers +then called upon them to do homage, and, when they complied, the chief +ordered some chaff to be given them, as if it had been food. Other +things also showed unmistakable hostility. As we were now pretty certain +of a skirmish, I ordered an ox to be slaughtered, as this is a means +which Sebituane employed for inspiring courage. I have no doubt that +we should have been victorious; indeed, my men, who were far better +acquainted with fighting than any of the people on the Zambesi, were +rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to carry the tusks for +them. "We shall now," said they, "get both corn and clothes in plenty." +They were in a sad state, poor fellows; for the rains we had encountered +had made their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal, and they were looked +upon with disgust by the well-fed and well-clothed Zambesians. They +were, however, veterans in marauding, and the head men, instead of being +depressed by fear, as the people of Mpende intended should be the case +in using their charms, hinted broadly to me that I ought to allow them +to keep Mpende's wives. The roasting of meat went on fast and furious, +and some of the young men said to me, "You have seen us with elephants, +but you don't know yet what we can do with men." I believe that, had +Mpende struck the first blow, he would soon have found out that he never +made a greater mistake in his life. + +His whole tribe was assembled at about the distance of half a mile. As +the country is covered with trees, we did not see them; but every now +and then a few came about us as spies, and would answer no questions. I +handed a leg of the ox to two of these, and desired them to take it to +Mpende. After waiting a considerable time in suspense, two old men +made their appearance, and said they had come to inquire who I was. I +replied, "I am a Lekoa" (an Englishman). They said, "We don't know that +tribe. We suppose you are a Mozunga, the tribe with which we have been +fighting." As I was not yet aware that the term Mozunga was applied to +a Portuguese, and thought they meant half-castes, I showed them my hair +and the skin of my bosom, and asked if the Bazunga had hair and skin +like mine. As the Portuguese have the custom of cutting the hair close, +and are also somewhat darker than we are, they answered, "No; we never +saw skin so white as that;" and added, "Ah! you must be one of that +tribe that loves (literally, 'has heart to') the black men." I, of +course, gladly responded in the affirmative. They returned to the +village, and we afterward heard that there had been a long discussion +between Mpende and his councilors, and that one of the men with whom we +had remained to talk the day before had been our advocate. He was +named Sindese Oalea. When we were passing his village, after some +conversation, he said to his people, "Is that the man whom they wish to +stop after he has passed so many tribes? What can Mpende say to refusing +him a passage?" It was owing to this man, and the fact that I belonged +to the "friendly white tribe", that Mpende was persuaded to allow us to +pass. When we knew the favorable decision of the council, I sent Sekwebu +to speak about the purchase of a canoe, as one of my men had become very +ill, and I wished to relieve his companions by taking him in a canoe. +Before Sekwebu could finish his story, Mpende remarked, "That white man +is truly one of our friends. See how he lets me know his afflictions!" +Sekwebu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the conversation, and +said, "Ah! if you only knew him as well as we do who have lived with +him, you would understand that he highly values your friendship and that +of Mburuma, and, as he is a stranger, he trusts in you to direct him." +He replied, "Well, he ought to cross to the other side of the river, for +this bank is hilly and rough, and the way to Tete is longer on this than +on the opposite bank." "But who will take us across, if you do not?" +"Truly!" replied Mpende; "I only wish you had come sooner to tell me +about him; but you shall cross." Mpende said frequently he was sorry he +had not known me sooner, but that he had been prevented by his enchanter +from coming near me; and he lamented that the same person had kept him +from eating the meat which I had presented. He did every thing he could +afterward to aid us on our course, and our departure was as different +as possible from our approach to his village. I was very much pleased to +find the English name spoken of with such great respect so far from +the coast, and most thankful that no collision occurred to damage its +influence. + +24TH. Mpende sent two of his principal men to order the people of a +large island below to ferry us across. The river is very broad, and, +though my men were well acquainted with the management of canoes, we +could not all cross over before dark. It is 1200 yards from bank to +bank, and between 700 and 800 of deep water, flowing at the rate of +3-3/4 miles per hour. We landed first on an island; then, to prevent our +friends playing false with us, hauled the canoes up to our bivouac, and +slept in them. Next morning we all reached the opposite bank in safety. +We observed, as we came along the Zambesi, that it had fallen two feet +below the height at which we first found it, and the water, though still +muddy enough to deposit a film at the bottom of vessels in a few hours, +is not nearly so red as it was, nor is there so much wreck on its +surface. It is therefore not yet the period of the central Zambesi +inundation, as we were aware also from our knowledge of the interior. +The present height of the water has been caused by rains outside the +eastern ridge. The people here seem abundantly supplied with English +cotton goods. The Babisa are the medium of trade, for we were informed +that the Bazunga, who formerly visited these parts, have been prevented +by the war from coming for the last two years. The Babisa are said to be +so fond of a tusk that they will even sell a newly-married wife for one. +As we were now not far from the latitude of Mozambique, I was somewhat +tempted to strike away from the river to that port, instead of going to +the S.E., in the direction the river flows; but, the great object of my +journey being to secure water-carriage, I resolved to continue along the +Zambesi, though it did lead me among the enemies of the Portuguese. The +region to the north of the ranges of hills on our left is called Senga, +from being the country of the Basenga, who are said to be great workers +in iron, and to possess abundance of fine iron ore, which, when broken, +shows veins of the pure metal in its substance. It has been well roasted +in the operations of nature. Beyond Senga lies a range of mountains +called Mashinga, to which the Portuguese in former times went to wash +for gold, and beyond that are great numbers of tribes which pass under +the general term Maravi. To the northeast there are extensive plains +destitute of trees, but covered with grass, and in some places it is +marshy. The whole of the country to the north of the Zambesi is asserted +to be very much more fertile than that to the south. The Maravi, for +instance, raise sweet potatoes of immense size, but when these are +planted on the southern bank they soon degenerate. The root of this +plant ('Convolvulus batata') does not keep more than two or three days, +unless it is cut into thin slices and dried in the sun, but the Maravi +manage to preserve them for months by digging a pit and burying them +therein inclosed in wood-ashes. Unfortunately, the Maravi, and all the +tribes on that side of the country, are at enmity with the Portuguese, +and, as they practice night attacks in their warfare, it is dangerous to +travel among them. + +29TH. I was most sincerely thankful to find myself on the south bank of +the Zambesi, and, having nothing else, I sent back one of my two spoons +and a shirt as a thank-offering to Mpende. The different head men along +this river act very much in concert, and if one refuses passage they all +do, uttering the sage remark, "If so-and-so did not lend his canoes, he +must have had some good reason." The next island we came to was that +of a man named Mozinkwa. Here we were detained some days by continuous +rains, and thought we observed the confirmation of the Bakwain theory of +rains. A double tier of clouds floated quickly away to the west, and +as soon as they began to come in an opposite direction the rains poured +down. The inhabitants who live in a dry region like that of Kolobeng are +nearly all as weather-wise as the rain-makers, and any one living among +them for any length of time becomes as much interested in the motions of +the clouds as they are themselves. Mr. Moffat, who was as sorely tried +by droughts as we were, and had his attention directed in the same way, +has noted the curious phenomenon of thunder without clouds. Mrs. L. +heard it once, but I never had that good fortune. It is worth the +attention of the observant. Humboldt has seen rain without clouds, a +phenomenon quite as singular. I have been in the vicinity of the fall of +three aerolites, none of which I could afterward discover. One fell into +the lake Kumadau with a report somewhat like a sharp peal of thunder. +The women of the Bakurutse villages there all uttered a scream on +hearing it. This happened at midday, and so did another at what is +called the Great Chuai, which was visible in its descent, and was also +accompanied with a thundering noise. The third fell near Kuruman, and +at night, and was seen as a falling star by people at Motito and at +Daniel's Kuil, places distant forty miles on opposite sides of the +spot. It sounded to me like the report of a great gun, and a few seconds +after, a lesser sound, as if striking the earth after a rebound. Does +the passage of a few such aerolites through the atmosphere to the earth +by day cause thunder without clouds? + +We were detained here so long that my tent became again quite rotten. +One of my men, after long sickness, which I did not understand, died +here. He was one of the Batoka, and when unable to walk I had some +difficulty in making his companions carry him. They wished to leave +him to die when his case became hopeless. Another of them deserted to +Mozinkwa. He said that his motive for doing so was that the Makololo +had killed both his father and mother, and, as he had neither wife nor +child, there was no reason why he should continue longer with them. I +did not object to his statements, but said if he should change his mind +he would be welcome to rejoin us, and intimated to Mozinkwa that he must +not be sold as a slave. We are now among people inured to slave-dealing. +We were visited by men who had been as far as Tete or Nyungwe, and were +told that we were but ten days from that fort. One of them, a Mashona +man, who had come from a great distance to the southwest, was anxious to +accompany us to the country of the white men; he had traveled far, and +I found that he had also knowledge of the English tribe, and of their +hatred to the trade in slaves. He told Sekwebu that the "English +were men", an emphasis being put upon the term MEN, which leaves the +impression that others are, as they express it in speaking scornfully, +"only THINGS". Several spoke in the same manner, and I found that from +Mpende's downward I rose higher every day in the estimation of my own +people. Even the slaves gave a very high character to the English, and +I found out afterward that, when I was first reported at Tete, the +servants of my friend the commandant said to him in joke, "Ah! this is +our brother who is coming; we shall all leave you and go with him." We +had still, however, some difficulties in store for us before reaching +that point. + +The man who wished to accompany us came and told us before our departure +that his wife would not allow him to go, and she herself came to confirm +the decision. Here the women have only a small puncture in the upper +lip, in which they insert a little button of tin. The perforation is +made by degrees, a ring with an opening in it being attached to the +lip, and the ends squeezed gradually together. The pressure on the flesh +between the ends of the ring causes its absorption, and a hole is the +result. Children may be seen with the ring on the lip, but not yet +punctured. The tin they purchase from the Portuguese, and, although +silver is reported to have been found in former times in this district, +no one could distinguish it from tin. But they had a knowledge of gold, +and for the first time I heard the word "dalama" (gold) in the native +language. The word is quite unknown in the interior, and so is the +metal itself. In conversing with the different people, we found the idea +prevalent that those who had purchased slaves from them had done them +an injury. "All the slaves of Nyungwe," said one, "are our children; the +Bazunga have made a town at our expense." When I asked if they had +not taken the prices offered them, they at once admitted it, but still +thought that they had been injured by being so far tempted. From the +way in which the lands of Zumbo were spoken of as still belonging to the +Portuguese (and they are said to have been obtained by purchase), I was +inclined to conclude that the purchase of land is not looked upon by the +inhabitants in the same light as the purchase of slaves. + +FEBRUARY 1ST. We met some native traders, and, as many of my men were +now in a state of nudity, I bought some American calico marked "Lawrence +Mills, Lowell", with two small tusks, and distributed it among the most +needy. After leaving Mozinkwa's we came to the Zingesi, a sand-rivulet +in flood (lat. 15d 38' 34" S., long. 31d 1' E.). It was sixty or seventy +yards wide, and waist-deep. Like all these sand-rivers, it is for the +most part dry; but by digging down a few feet, water is to be found, +which is percolating along the bed on a stratum of clay. This is the +phenomenon which is dignified by the name of "a river flowing under +ground." In trying to ford this I felt thousands of particles of coarse +sand striking my legs, and the slight disturbance of our footsteps +caused deep holes to be made in the bed. The water, which is almost +always very rapid in them, dug out the sand beneath our feet in a second +or two, and we were all sinking by that means so deep that we were glad +to relinquish the attempt to ford it before we got half way over; the +oxen were carried away down into the Zambesi. These sand-rivers remove +vast masses of disintegrated rock before it is fine enough to form soil. +The man who preceded me was only thigh-deep, but the disturbance caused +by his feet made it breast-deep for me. The shower of particles and +gravel which struck against my legs gave me the idea that the amount of +matter removed by every freshet must be very great. In most rivers +where much wearing is going on, a person diving to the bottom may +hear literally thousands of stones knocking against each other. This +attrition, being carried on for hundreds of miles in different rivers, +must have an effect greater than if all the pestles and mortars and +mills of the world were grinding and wearing away the rocks. The +pounding to which I refer may be heard most distinctly in the Vaal +River, when that is slightly in flood. It was there I first heard it. +In the Leeambye, in the middle of the country, where there is no +discoloration, and little carried along but sand, it is not to be heard. + +While opposite the village of a head man called Mosusa, a number of +elephants took refuge on an island in the river. There were two males, +and a third not full grown; indeed, scarcely the size of a female. This +was the first instance I had ever seen of a comparatively young one with +the males, for they usually remain with the female herd till as large as +their dams. The inhabitants were very anxious that my men should attack +them, as they go into the gardens on the islands, and do much damage. +The men went, but the elephants ran about half a mile to the opposite +end of the island, and swam to the main land with their probosces above +the water, and, no canoe being near, they escaped. They swim strongly, +with the proboscis erect in the air. I was not very desirous to have one +of these animals killed, for we understood that when we passed Mpende we +came into a country where the game-laws are strictly enforced. The lands +of each chief are very well defined, the boundaries being usually marked +by rivulets, great numbers of which flow into the Zambesi from both +banks, and, if an elephant is wounded on one man's land and dies on that +of another, the under half of the carcass is claimed by the lord of the +soil; and so stringent is the law, that the hunter can not begin at once +to cut up his own elephant, but must send notice to the lord of the soil +on which it lies, and wait until that personage sends one authorized to +see a fair partition made. If the hunter should begin to cut up before +the agent of the landowner arrives, he is liable to lose both the tusks +and all the flesh. The hind leg of a buffalo must also be given to the +man on whose land the animal was grazing, and a still larger quantity +of the eland, which here and every where else in the country is esteemed +right royal food. In the country above Zumbo we did not find a vestige +of this law; and but for the fact that it existed in the country of +the Bamapela, far to the south of this, I should have been disposed to +regard it in the same light as I do the payment for leave to pass--an +imposition levied on him who is seen to be weak because in the hands +of his slaves. The only game-laws in the interior are, that the man who +first wounds an animal, though he has inflicted but a mere scratch, is +considered the killer of it; the second is entitled to a hind quarter, +and the third to a fore leg. The chiefs are generally entitled to a +share as tribute; in some parts it is the breast, in others the whole +of the ribs and one fore leg. I generally respected this law, although +exceptions are sometimes made when animals are killed by guns. The +knowledge that he who succeeds in reaching the wounded beast first is +entitled to a share stimulates the whole party to greater exertions in +dispatching it. One of my men, having a knowledge of elephant medicine, +was considered the leader in the hunt; he went before the others, +examined the animals, and on his decision all depended. If he decided to +attack a herd, the rest went boldly on; but if he declined, none of them +would engage. A certain part of the elephant belonged to him by right +of the office he held, and such was the faith in medicine held by the +slaves of the Portuguese whom we met hunting, that they offered to pay +this man handsomely if he would show them the elephant medicine. + +When near Mosusa's village we passed a rivulet called Chowe, now running +with rain-water. The inhabitants there extract a little salt from the +sand when it is dry, and all the people of the adjacent country come +to purchase it from them. This was the first salt we had met with since +leaving Angola, for none is to be found in either the country of the +Balonda or Barotse; but we heard of salt-pans about a fortnight west +of Naliele, and I got a small supply from Mpololo while there. That had +long since been finished, and I had again lived two months without salt, +suffering no inconvenience except an occasional longing for animal food +or milk. + +In marching along, the rich reddish-brown soil was so clammy that it +was very difficult to walk. It is, however, extremely fertile, and the +people cultivate amazing quantities of corn, maize, millet, ground-nuts, +pumpkins, and cucumbers. We observed that, when plants failed in one +spot, they were in the habit of transplanting them into another, and +they had also grown large numbers of young plants on the islands, where +they are favored by moisture from the river, and were now removing them +to the main land. The fact of their being obliged to do this shows that +there is less rain here than in Londa, for there we observed the grain +in all stages of its growth at the same time. + +The people here build their huts in gardens on high stages. This is +necessary on account of danger from the spotted hyaena, which is said +to be very fierce, and also as a protection against lions and elephants. +The hyaena is a very cowardly animal, but frequently approaches persons +lying asleep, and makes an ugly gash on the face. Mozinkwa had lost his +upper lip in this way, and I have heard of men being killed by them; +children, too, are sometimes carried off; for, though he is so cowardly +that the human voice will make him run away at once, yet, when his teeth +are in the flesh, he holds on, and shows amazing power of jaw. Leg-bones +of oxen, from which the natives have extracted the marrow and every +thing eatable, are by this animal crunched up with the greatest ease, +which he apparently effects by turning them round in his teeth till they +are in a suitable position for being split. + +We had now come among people who had plenty, and were really very +liberal. My men never returned from a village without some corn or maize +in their hands. The real politeness with which food is given by +nearly all the interior tribes, who have not had much intercourse with +Europeans, makes it a pleasure to accept. Again and again I have heard +an apology made for the smallness of the present, or regret expressed +that they had not received notice of my approach in time to grind more, +and generally they readily accepted our excuse at having nothing to give +in return by saying that they were quite aware that there are no white +men's goods in the interior. When I had it in my power, I always gave +something really useful. To Katema, Shinte, and others, I gave presents +which cost me about 2 Pounds each, and I could return to them at any +time without having a character for stinginess. How some men can offer +three buttons, or some other equally contemptible gift, while they have +abundance in their possession, is to me unaccountable. They surely do +not know, when they write it in their books, that they are declaring +they have compromised the honor of Englishmen. The people receive the +offering with a degree of shame, and ladies may be seen to hand it +quickly to the attendants, and, when they retire, laugh until the tears +stand in their eyes, saying to those about them, "Is that a white man? +then there are niggards among them too. Some of them are born without +hearts!" One white trader, having presented an OLD GUN to a chief, +became a standing joke in the tribe: "The white man who made a +present of a gun that was new when his grandfather was sucking his +great-grandmother." When these tricks are repeated, the natives come to +the conclusion that people who show such a want of sense must be told +their duty; they therefore let them know what they ought to give, +and travelers then complain of being pestered with their "shameless +begging". I was troubled by importunity on the confines of civilization +only, and when I first came to Africa. + +FEBRUARY 4TH. We were much detained by rains, a heavy shower without +wind falling every morning about daybreak; it often cleared up after +that, admitting of our moving on a few miles. A continuous rain of +several hours then set in. The wind up to this point was always from +the east, but both rain and wind now came so generally from the west, +or opposite direction to what we had been accustomed to in the interior, +that we were obliged to make our encampment face the east, in order to +have them in our backs. The country adjacent to the river abounds in +large trees; but the population is so numerous that, those left being +all green, it is difficult to get dry firewood. On coming to some +places, too, we were warned by the villagers not to cut the trees +growing in certain spots, as they contained the graves of their +ancestors. There are many tamarind-trees, and another very similar, +which yields a fruit as large as a small walnut, of which the elephants +are very fond. It is called Motondo, and the Portuguese extol its timber +as excellent for building boats, as it does not soon rot in water. + +On the 6th we came to the village of Boroma, which is situated among a +number of others, each surrounded by extensive patches of cultivation. +On the opposite side of the river we have a great cluster of conical +hills called Chorichori. Boroma did not make his appearance, but sent +a substitute who acted civilly. I sent Sekwebu in the morning to +state that we intended to move on; his mother replied that, as she had +expected that we should remain, no food was ready, but she sent a basket +of corn and a fowl. As an excuse why Boroma did not present himself, she +said that he was seized that morning by the Barimo, which probably meant +that his lordship was drunk. + +We marched along the river to a point opposite the hill Pinkwe (lat. 15d +39' 11" S., long. 32d 5' E.), but the late abundant rains now flooded +the Zambesi again, and great quantities of wreck appeared upon the +stream. It is probable that frequent freshets, caused by the rains on +this side of the ridge, have prevented the Portuguese near the coast +from recognizing the one peculiar flood of inundation observed in +the interior, and caused the belief that it is flooded soon after the +commencement of the rains. The course of the Nile being in the opposite +direction to this, it does not receive these subsidiary waters, and +hence its inundation is recognized all the way along its course. If the +Leeambye were prolonged southward into the Cape Colony, its flood would +be identical with that of the Nile. It would not be influenced by any +streams in the Kalahari, for there, as in a corresponding part of the +Nile, there would be no feeders. It is to be remembered that the great +ancient river which flowed to the lake at Boochap took this course +exactly, and probably flowed thither until the fissure of the falls was +made. + +This flood having filled the river, we found the numerous rivulets which +flow into it filled also, and when going along the Zambesi, we lost so +much time in passing up each little stream till we could find a ford +about waist deep, and then returning to the bank, that I resolved +to leave the river altogether, and strike away to the southeast. We +accordingly struck off when opposite the hill Pinkwe, and came into a +hard Mopane country. In a hole of one of the mopane-trees I noticed that +a squirrel ('Sciurus cepapi') had placed a great number of fresh leaves +over a store of seed. It is not against the cold of winter that they +thus lay up food, but it is a provision against the hot season, when the +trees have generally no seed. A great many silicified trees are met with +lying on the ground all over this part of the country; some are broken +off horizontally, and stand upright; others are lying prone, and broken +across into a number of pieces. One was 4 feet 8 inches in diameter, +and the wood must have been soft like that of the baobab, for there were +only six concentric rings to the inch. As the semidiameter was only 28 +inches, this large tree could have been but 168 years old. I found +also a piece of palm-tree transformed into oxide of iron, and the pores +filled with pure silica. These fossil trees lie upon soft gray sandstone +containing banks of shingle, which forms the underlying rock of the +country all the way from Zumbo to near Lupata. It is met with at +Litubaruba and in Angola, with similar banks of shingle imbedded exactly +like those now seen on the sea-beach, but I never could find a shell. +There are many nodules and mounds of hardened clay upon it, which seem +to have been deposited in eddies made round the roots of these ancient +trees, for they appear of different colors in wavy and twisted lines. +Above this we have small quantities of calcareous marl. + +As we were now in the district of Chicova, I examined the geological +structure of the country with interest, because here, it has been +stated, there once existed silver mines. The general rock is the gray +soft sandstone I have mentioned, but at the rivulet Bangue we come upon +a dike of basalt six yards wide, running north and south. When we +cross this, we come upon several others, some of which run more to the +eastward. The sandstone is then found to have been disturbed, and at +the rivulet called Nake we found it tilted up and exhibiting a section, +which was coarse sandstone above, sandstone-flag, shale, and, lastly, a +thin seam of coal. The section was only shown for a short distance, and +then became lost by a fault made by a dike of basalt, which ran to the +E.N.E. in the direction of Chicova. + +This Chicova is not a kingdom, as has been stated, but a level tract, a +part of which is annually overflowed by the Zambesi, and is well adapted +for the cultivation of corn. It is said to be below the northern end +of the hill Bungwe. I was very much pleased in discovering this small +specimen of such a precious mineral as coal. I saw no indication of +silver, and, if it ever was worked by the natives, it is remarkable that +they have entirely lost the knowledge of it, and can not distinguish +between silver and tin. In connection with these basaltic dikes, it may +be mentioned that when I reached Tete I was informed of the existence of +a small rapid in the river near Chicova; had I known this previously, +I certainly would not have left the river without examining it. It is +called Kebrabasa, and is described as a number of rocks which jut out +across the stream. I have no doubt but that it is formed by some of +the basaltic dikes which we now saw, for they generally ran toward that +point. I was partly influenced in leaving the river by a wish to avoid +several chiefs in that direction, who levy a heavy tribute on those +who pass up or down. Our path lay along the bed of the Nake for some +distance, the banks being covered with impenetrable thickets. The +villages are not numerous, but we went from one to the other, and were +treated kindly. Here they call themselves Bambiri, though the general +name of the whole nation is Banyai. One of our guides was an inveterate +talker, always stopping and asking for pay, that he might go on with +a merry heart. I thought that he led us in the most difficult paths in +order to make us feel his value, for, after passing through one thicket +after another, we always came into the bed of the Nake again, and as +that was full of coarse sand, and the water only ankle deep, and as hot +as a foot-bath from the powerful rays of the sun, we were all completely +tired out. He likewise gave us a bad character at every village we +passed, calling to them that they were to allow him to lead us astray, +as we were a bad set. Sekwebu knew every word he said, and, as he became +intolerable, I dismissed him, giving him six feet of calico I had bought +from native traders, and telling him that his tongue was a nuisance. +It is in general best, when a scolding is necessary, to give it in +combination with a present, and then end it by good wishes. This fellow +went off smiling, and my men remarked, "His tongue is cured now." The +country around the Nake is hilly, and the valleys covered with tangled +jungle. The people who live in this district have reclaimed their +gardens from the forest, and the soil is extremely fertile. The Nake +flows northerly, and then to the east. It is 50 or 60 yards wide, but +during most of the year is dry, affording water only by digging in the +sand. We found in its bed masses of volcanic rock, identical with those +I subsequently recognized as such at Aden. + +13TH. The head man of these parts is named Nyampungo. I sent the last +fragment of cloth we had, with a request that we should be furnished +with a guide to the next chief. After a long conference with his +council, the cloth was returned with a promise of compliance, and a +request for some beads only. This man is supposed to possess the charm +for rain, and other tribes send to him to beg it. This shows that what +we inferred before was correct, that less rain falls in this country +than in Londa. Nyampungo behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner, +presented me with some rice, and told my people to go among all the +villages and beg for themselves. An old man, father-in-law of the chief, +told me that he had seen books before, but never knew what they meant. +They pray to departed chiefs and relatives, but the idea of praying +to God seemed new, and they heard it with reverence. As this was +an intelligent old man, I asked him about the silver, but he was as +ignorant of it as the rest, and said, "We never dug silver, but we have +washed for gold in the sands of the rivers Mazoe and Luia, which unite +in the Luenya." I think that this is quite conclusive on the question of +no silver having been dug by the natives of this district. Nyampungo is +afflicted with a kind of disease called Sesenda, which I imagine to be +a species of leprosy common in this quarter, though they are a cleanly +people. They never had cattle. The chief's father had always lived in +their present position, and, when I asked him why he did not possess +these useful animals, he said, "Who would give us the medicine to enable +us to keep them?" I found out the reason afterward in the prevalence of +tsetse, but of this he was ignorant, having supposed that he could not +keep cattle because he had no medicine. + + + + +Chapter 30. + +An Elephant-hunt--Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success-- +Native Mode of Expression--Working of Game-laws--A Feast--Laughing +Hyaenas--Numerous Insects--Curious Notes of Birds of Song-- +Caterpillars--Butterflies--Silica--The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants +--Rhinoceros Adventure--Korwe Bird--Its Nest--A real Confinement-- +Honey and Beeswax--Superstitious Reverence for the Lion--Slow +Traveling--Grapes--The Ue--Monina's Village--Native Names--Government +of the Banyai--Electing a Chief--Youths instructed in +"Bonyai"--Suspected of Falsehood--War-dance--Insanity and Disappearance +of Monahin--Fruitless Search--Monina's Sympathy--The Sand-river +Tangwe--The Ordeal Muavi: its Victims--An unreasonable Man--"Woman's +Rights"--Presents--Temperance--A winding Course to shun Villages-- +Banyai Complexion and Hair--Mushrooms--The Tubers, Mokuri--The Tree +Shekabakadzi--Face of the Country--Pot-holes--Pursued by a Party +of Natives--Unpleasant Threat--Aroused by a Company of Soldiers--A +civilized Breakfast--Arrival at Tete. + + + +14TH. We left Nyampungo this morning. The path wound up the Molinge, +another sand-river which flows into the Nake. When we got clear of the +tangled jungle which covers the banks of these rivulets, we entered the +Mopane country, where we could walk with comfort. When we had gone on +a few hours, my men espied an elephant, and were soon in full pursuit. +They were in want of meat, having tasted nothing but grain for several +days. The desire for animal food made them all eager to slay him, and, +though an old bull, he was soon killed. The people of Nyampungo had +never seen such desperadoes before. One rushed up and hamstrung +the beast, while still standing, by a blow with an axe. Some Banyai +elephant-hunters happened to be present when my men were fighting with +him. One of them took out his snuff-box, and poured out all its contents +at the root of a tree as an offering to the Barimo for success. As soon +as the animal fell, the whole of my party engaged in a wild, savage +dance round the body, which quite frightened the Banyai, and he who made +the offering said to me, "I see you are traveling with people who don't +know how to pray: I therefore offered the only thing I had in their +behalf, and the elephant soon fell." One of Nyampungo's men, who +remained with me, ran a little forward, when an opening in the trees +gave us a view of the chase, and uttered loud prayers for success in +the combat. I admired the devout belief they all possessed in the actual +existence of unseen beings, and prayed that they might yet know that +benignant One who views us all as his own. My own people, who are rather +a degraded lot, remarked to me as I came up, "God gave it to us. He +said to the old beast, 'Go up there; men are come who will kill and eat +you.'" These remarks are quoted to give the reader an idea of the native +mode of expression. + +As we were now in the country of stringent game-laws, we were obliged +to send all the way back to Nyampungo, to give information to a certain +person who had been left there by the real owner of this district to +watch over his property, the owner himself living near the Zambesi. The +side upon which the elephant fell had a short, broken tusk; the upper +one, which was ours, was large and thick. The Banyai remarked on our +good luck. The men sent to give notice came back late in the afternoon +of the following day. They brought a basket of corn, a fowl, and a few +strings of handsome beads, as a sort of thank-offering for our having +killed it on their land, and said they had thanked the Barimo besides +for our success, adding, "There it is; eat it and be glad." Had we begun +to cut it up before we got this permission, we should have lost the +whole. They had brought a large party to eat their half, and they +divided it with us in a friendly way. My men were delighted with the +feast, though, by lying unopened a whole day, the carcass was pretty far +gone. An astonishing number of hyaenas collected round, and kept up a +loud laughter for two whole nights. Some of them do make a very good +imitation of a laugh. I asked my men what the hyaenas were laughing at, +as they usually give animals credit for a share of intelligence. They +said that they were laughing because we could not take the whole, and +that they would have plenty to eat as well as we. + +On coming to the part where the elephant was slain, we passed through +grass so tall that it reminded me of that in the valley of Cassange. +Insects are very numerous after the rains commence. While waiting by +the elephant, I observed a great number of insects, like grains of fine +sand, moving on my boxes. On examination with a glass, four species were +apparent; one of green and gold preening its wings, which glanced in the +sun with metallic lustre; another clear as crystal; a third of the color +of vermilion; and a fourth black. These are probably some of those which +consume the seeds of every plant that grows. Almost every kind has its +own peculiar insect, and when the rains are over very few seeds remain +untouched. The rankest poisons, as the Kongwhane and Euphorbia, are soon +devoured; the former has a scarlet insect; and even the fiery bird's-eye +pepper, which will keep off many others from their own seeds, is itself +devoured by a maggot. I observed here, what I had often seen before, +that certain districts abound in centipedes. Here they have light +reddish bodies and blue legs; great myriapedes are seen crawling +every where. Although they do no harm, they excite in man a feeling +of loathing. Perhaps our appearance produces a similar feeling in the +elephant and other large animals. Where they have been much disturbed, +they certainly look upon us with great distrust, as the horrid biped +that ruins their peace. In the quietest parts of the forest there is +heard a faint but distinct hum, which tells of insect joy. One may see +many whisking about in the clear sunshine in patches among the +green glancing leaves; but there are invisible myriads working with +never-tiring mandibles on leaves, and stalks, and beneath the soil. They +are all brimful of enjoyment. Indeed, the universality of organic life +may be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world, and +imparts the idea of its being caused by the consciousness of our +benignant Father's smile on all the works of His hands. + +The birds of the tropics have been described as generally wanting in +power of song. I was decidedly of opinion that this was not applicable +to many parts in Londa, though birds there are remarkably scarce. Here +the chorus, or body of song, was not much smaller in volume than it is +in England. It was not so harmonious, and sounded always as if the birds +were singing in a foreign tongue. Some resemble the lark, and, indeed, +there are several of that family; two have notes not unlike those of the +thrush. One brought the chaffinch to my mind, and another the robin; but +their songs are intermixed with several curious abrupt notes unlike any +thing English. One utters deliberately "peek, pak, pok"; another has a +single note like a stroke on a violin-string. The mokwa reza gives +forth a screaming set of notes like our blackbird when disturbed, then +concludes with what the natives say is "pula, pula" (rain, rain), but +more like "weep, weep, weep". Then we have the loud cry of francolins, +the "pumpuru, pumpuru" of turtle-doves, and the "chiken, chiken, chik, +churr, churr" of the honey-guide. Occasionally, near villages, we have +a kind of mocking-bird, imitating the calls of domestic fowls. These +African birds have not been wanting in song; they have only lacked poets +to sing their praises, which ours have had from the time of Aristophanes +downward. Ours have both a classic and a modern interest to enhance +their fame. In hot, dry weather, or at midday when the sun is fierce, +all are still: let, however, a good shower fall, and all burst forth at +once into merry lays and loving courtship. The early mornings and +the cool evenings are their favorite times for singing. There are +comparatively few with gaudy plumage, being totally unlike, in this +respect, the birds of the Brazils. The majority have decidedly a sober +dress, though collectors, having generally selected the gaudiest as the +most valuable, have conveyed the idea that the birds of the tropics for +the most part possess gorgeous plumage. + +15TH. Several of my men have been bitten by spiders and other insects, +but no effect except pain has followed. A large caterpillar is +frequently seen, called lezuntabuea. It is covered with long gray hairs, +and, the body being dark, it resembles a porcupine in miniature. If one +touches it, the hairs run into the pores of the skin, and remain there, +giving sharp pricks. There are others which have a similar means of +defense; and when the hand is drawn across them, as in passing a bush on +which they happen to be, the contact resembles the stinging of nettles. +From the great number of caterpillars seen, we have a considerable +variety of butterflies. One particular kind flies more like a swallow +than a butterfly. They are not remarkable for the gaudiness of their +colors. + +In passing along we crossed the hills Vungue or Mvungwe, which we found +to be composed of various eruptive rocks. At one part we have breccia of +altered marl or slate in quartz, and various amygdaloids. It is curious +to observe the different forms which silica assumes. We have it in +claystone porphyry here, in minute round globules, no larger than +turnip-seed, dotted thickly over the matrix; or crystallized round the +walls of cavities, once filled with air or other elastic fluid; or it +may appear in similar cavities as tufts of yellow asbestos, or as red, +yellow, or green crystals, or in laminae so arranged as to appear like +fossil wood. Vungue forms the watershed between those sand rivulets +which run to the N.E., and others which flow southward, as the Kapopo, +Ue, and Due, which run into the Luia. + +We found that many elephants had been feeding on the fruit called +Mokoronga. This is a black-colored plum, having purple juice. We all ate +it in large quantities, as we found it delicious. The only defect it has +is the great size of the seed in comparison with the pulp. This is +the chief fault of all uncultivated wild fruits. The Mokoronga exists +throughout this part of the country most abundantly, and the natives +eagerly devour it, as it is said to be perfectly wholesome, or, as they +express it, "It is pure fat," and fat is by them considered the best +of food. Though only a little larger than a cherry, we found that the +elephants had stood picking them off patiently by the hour. We observed +the footprints of a black rhinoceros ('Rhinoceros bicornis', Linn.) and +her calf. We saw other footprints among the hills of Semalembue, but the +black rhinoceros is remarkably scarce in all the country north of the +Zambesi. The white rhinoceros ('Rhinoceros simus' of Burchell), or +Mohohu of the Bechuanas, is quite extinct here, and will soon become +unknown in the country to the south. It feeds almost entirely on +grasses, and is of a timid, unsuspecting disposition: this renders it an +easy prey, and they are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction +of fire-arms. The black possesses a more savage nature, and, like the +ill-natured in general, is never found with an ounce of fat in its +body. From its greater fierceness and wariness, it holds its place in +a district much longer than its more timid and better-conditioned +neighbor. Mr. Oswell was once stalking two of these beasts, and, as +they came slowly to him, he, knowing that there is but little chance +of hitting the small brain of this animal by a shot in the head, lay +expecting one of them to give his shoulder till he was within a few +yards. The hunter then thought that by making a rush to his side he +might succeed in escaping, but the rhinoceros, too quick for that, +turned upon him, and, though he discharged his gun close to the animal's +head, he was tossed in the air. My friend was insensible for some time, +and, on recovering, found large wounds on the thigh and body: I saw that +on the former part still open, and five inches long. The white, however, +is not always quite safe, for one, even after it was mortally wounded, +attacked Mr. Oswell's horse, and thrust the horn through to the saddle, +tossing at the time both horse and rider. I once saw a white rhinoceros +give a buffalo, which was gazing intently at myself, a poke in the +chest, but it did not wound it, and seemed only a hint to get out of the +way. Four varieties of the rhinoceros are enumerated by naturalists, but +my observation led me to conclude that there are but two, and that the +extra species have been formed from differences in their sizes, ages, +and the direction of the horns, as if we should reckon the short-horned +cattle a different species from the Alderneys or the Highland breed. +I was led to this from having once seen a black rhinoceros with a horn +bent downward like that of the kuabaoba, and also because the animals +of the two great varieties differ very much in appearance at different +stages of their growth. I find, however, that Dr. Smith, the best +judge in these matters, is quite decided as to the propriety of the +subdivision into three or four species. For common readers, it is +sufficient to remember that there are two well-defined species, that +differ entirely in appearance and food. The absence of both these +rhinoceroses among the reticulated rivers in the central valley may +easily be accounted for, they would be such an easy prey to the natives +in their canoes at the periods of inundation; but one can not so readily +account for the total absence of the giraffe and ostrich on the high +open lands of the Batoka, north of the Zambesi, unless we give credence +to the native report which bounds the country still farther north by +another network of waters near Lake Shuia, and suppose that it also +prevented their progress southward. The Batoka have no name for the +giraffe or the ostrich in their language; yet, as the former exists in +considerable numbers in the angle formed by the Leeambye and Chobe, they +may have come from the north along the western ridge. The Chobe would +seem to have been too narrow to act as an obstacle to the giraffe, +supposing it to have come into that district from the south; but the +broad river into which that stream flows seems always to have presented +an impassable barrier to both the giraffe and the ostrich, though they +abound on its southern border, both in the Kalahari Desert and the +country of Mashona. + +We passed through large tracts of Mopane country, and my men caught a +great many of the birds called Korwe ('Tockus erythrorhynchus') in their +breeding-places, which were in holes in the mopane-trees. On the 19th +we passed the nest of a korwe just ready for the female to enter; the +orifice was plastered on both sides, but a space was left of a heart +shape, and exactly the size of the bird's body. The hole in the tree +was in every case found to be prolonged some distance upward above the +opening, and thither the korwe always fled to escape being caught. In +another nest we found that one white egg, much like that of a pigeon, +was laid, and the bird dropped another when captured. She had four +besides in the ovarium. The first time that I saw this bird was at +Kolobeng, where I had gone to the forest for some timber. Standing by a +tree, a native looked behind me and exclaimed, "There is the nest of +a korwe." I saw a slit only, about half an inch wide and three or four +inches long, in a slight hollow of the tree. Thinking the word korwe +denoted some small animal, I waited with interest to see what he would +extract; he broke the clay which surrounded the slit, put his arm into +the hole, and brought out a 'Tockus', or 'red-beaked hornbill', which +he killed. He informed me that, when the female enters her nest, she +submits to a real confinement. The male plasters up the entrance, +leaving only a narrow slit by which to feed his mate, and which exactly +suits the form of his beak. The female makes a nest of her own feathers, +lays her eggs, hatches them, and remains with the young till they are +fully fledged. During all this time, which is stated to be two or +three months, the male continues to feed her and the young family. The +prisoner generally becomes quite fat, and is esteemed a very dainty +morsel by the natives, while the poor slave of a husband gets so lean +that, on the sudden lowering of the temperature which sometimes happens +after a fall of rain, he is benumbed, falls down, and dies. I never had +an opportunity of ascertaining the actual length of the confinement, but +on passing the same tree at Kolobeng about eight days afterward the hole +was plastered up again, as if, in the short time that had elapsed, the +disconsolate husband had secured another wife. We did not disturb her, +and my duties prevented me from returning to the spot. This is the month +in which the female enters the nest. We had seen one of these, as +before mentioned, with the plastering not quite finished; we saw many +completed; and we received the very same account here that we did at +Kolobeng, that the bird comes forth when the young are fully fledged, at +the period when the corn is ripe; indeed, her appearance abroad with her +young is one of the signs they have for knowing when it ought to be so. +As that is about the end of April, the time is between two and three +months. She is said sometimes to hatch two eggs, and, when the young of +these are full-fledged, other two are just out of the egg-shells: she +then leaves the nest with the two elder, the orifice is again plastered +up, and both male and female attend to the wants of the young which are +left. On several occasions I observed a branch bearing the marks of the +male having often sat upon it when feeding his mate, and the excreta had +been expelled a full yard from the orifice, and often proved a means of +discovering the retreat. + +The honey-guides were very assiduous in their friendly offices, and +enabled my men to get a large quantity of honey. But, though bees +abound, the wax of these parts forms no article of trade. In Londa it +may be said to be fully cared for, as you find hives placed upon trees +in the most lonesome forests. We often met strings of carriers laden +with large blocks of this substance, each 80 or 100 lbs. in weight, and +pieces were offered to us for sale at every village; but here we never +saw a single artificial hive. The bees were always found in the natural +cavities of mopane-trees. It is probable that the good market for +wax afforded to Angola by the churches of Brazil led to the gradual +development of that branch of commerce there. I saw even on the banks +of the Quango as much as sixpence paid for a pound. In many parts of +the Batoka country bees exist in vast numbers, and the tribute due to +Sekeletu is often paid in large jars of honey; but, having no market nor +use for the wax, it is thrown away. This was the case also with ivory at +the Lake Ngami, at the period of its discovery. The reports brought by +my other party from Loanda of the value of wax had induced some of my +present companions to bring small quantities of it to Tete, but, not +knowing the proper mode of preparing it, it was so dark colored that no +one would purchase it; I afterward saw a little at Kilimane which had +been procured from the natives somewhere in this region. + +Though we are now approaching the Portuguese settlement, the country is +still full of large game. My men killed six buffalo calves out of a herd +we met. The abundance of these animals, and also of antelopes, shows the +insufficiency of the bow and arrow to lessen their numbers. There are +also a great many lions and hyaenas, and there is no check upon the +increase of the former, for the people, believing that the souls of +their chiefs enter into them, never attempt to kill them; they even +believe that a chief may metamorphose himself into a lion, kill any one +he chooses, and then return to the human form; therefore, when they +see one, they commence clapping their hands, which is the usual mode +of salutation here. The consequence is, that lions and hyaenas are +so abundant that we see little huts made in the trees, indicating the +places where some of the inhabitants have slept when benighted in the +fields. As numbers of my men frequently left the line of march in order +to take out the korwes from their nests, or follow the honey-guides, +they excited the astonishment of our guides, who were constantly +warning them of the danger they thereby incurred from lions. I was often +considerably ahead of the main body of my men on this account, and was +obliged to stop every hour or two; but, the sun being excessively hot +by day, I was glad of the excuse for resting. We could make no such +prodigious strides as officers in the Arctic regions are able to do. Ten +or twelve miles a day were a good march for both the men and myself; and +it was not the length of the marches, but continuing day after day to +perform the same distance, that was so fatiguing. It was in this case +much longer than appears on the map, because we kept out of the way of +villages. I drank less than the natives when riding, but all my clothing +was now constantly damp from the moisture which was imbibed in large +quantities at every pond. One does not stay on these occasions to +prepare water with alum or any thing else, but drinks any amount without +fear. I never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying lands +of the Zambesi, and yet it was becoming cooler than it was on the +highlands. + +We crossed the rivulets Kapopo and Ue, now running, but usually dry. +There are great numbers of wild grape-vines growing in this quarter; +indeed, they abound every where along the banks of the Zambesi. In +the Batoka country there is a variety which yields a black grape of +considerable sweetness. The leaves are very large and harsh, as if +capable of withstanding the rays of this hot sun; but the most common +kinds--one with a round leaf and a greenish grape, and another with a +leaf closely resembling that of the cultivated varieties, and with dark +or purple fruit--have large seeds, which are strongly astringent, and +render it a disagreeable fruit. The natives eat all the varieties; and +I tasted vinegar made by a Portuguese from these grapes. Probably a +country which yields the wild vines so very abundantly might be a fit +one for the cultivated species. At this part of the journey so many of +the vines had run across the little footpath we followed that one had +to be constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped. The ground was +covered with rounded shingle, which was not easily seen among the grass. +Pedestrianism may be all very well for those whose obesity requires much +exercise, but for one who was becoming as thin as a lath, through the +constant perspiration caused by marching day after day in the hot sun, +the only good I saw in it was that it gave an honest sort of man a vivid +idea of the tread-mill. + +Although the rains were not quite over, great numbers of pools were +drying up, and the ground was in many parts covered with small green +cryptogamous plants, which gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong +smell. As we sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation which +hung over our path, we felt a sort of hot blast on our faces. Every +thing looked unwholesome, but we had no fever. The Ue flows between high +banks of a soft red sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa. +The crumbling sandstone is evidently alluvial, and is cut into 12 feet +deep. In this region, too, we met with pot-holes six feet deep and three +or four in diameter. In some cases they form convenient wells; in others +they are full of earth; and in others still the people have made them +into graves for their chiefs. + +On the 20th we came to Monina's village (close to the sand-river Tangwe, +latitude 16d 13' 38" south, longitude 32d 32' east). This man is +very popular among the tribes on account of his liberality. Boroma, +Nyampungo, Monina, Jira, Katolosa (Monomotapa), and Susa, all +acknowledge the supremacy of one called Nyatewe, who is reported to +decide all disputes respecting land. This confederation is exactly +similar to what we observed in Londa and other parts of Africa. Katolosa +is "the Emperor Monomotapa" of history, but he is a chief of no great +power, and acknowledges the supremacy of Nyatewe. The Portuguese +formerly honored Monomotapa with a guard, to fire off numbers of guns on +the occasion of any funeral, and he was also partially subsidized. The +only evidence of greatness possessed by his successor is his having +about a hundred wives. When he dies a disputed succession and much +fighting are expected. In reference to the term Monomotapa, it is to be +remembered that Mono, Moene, Mona, Mana, or Morena, mean simply 'chief', +and considerable confusion has arisen from naming different people by +making a plural of the chief's name. The names Monomoizes, spelled also +Monemuiges and Monomuizes, and Monomotapistas, when applied to these +tribes, are exactly the same as if we should call the Scotch the Lord +Douglases. Motape was the chief of the Bambiri, a tribe of the Banyai, +and is now represented in the person of Katolosa. He was probably a man +of greater energy than his successor, yet only an insignificant chief. +Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or Muiza, the singular of the word +Babisa or Aiza, the proper name of a large tribe to the north. In the +transformation of this name the same error has been committed as in the +others; and mistakes have occurred in many other names by inattention to +the meaning, and predilection for the letter R. The River Loangwa, for +instance, has been termed Arroangoa, and the Luenya the Ruanha. The +Bazizulu, or Mashona, are spoken of as the Morururus. + +The government of the Banyai is rather peculiar, being a sort of feudal +republicanism. The chief is elected, and they choose the son of the +deceased chief's sister in preference to his own offspring. When +dissatisfied with one candidate, they even go to a distant tribe for a +successor, who is usually of the family of the late chief, a brother, or +a sister's son, but never his own son or daughter. When first spoken to +on the subject, he answers as if he thought himself unequal to the +task and unworthy of the honor; but, having accepted it, all the wives, +goods, and children of his predecessor belong to him, and he takes care +to keep them in a dependent position. When any one of them becomes +tired of this state of vassalage and sets up his own village, it is not +unusual for the elected chief to send a number of the young men, who +congregate about himself, to visit him. If he does not receive them with +the usual amount of clapping of hands and humility, they, in obedience +to orders, at once burn his village. The children of the chief have +fewer privileges than common free men. They may not be sold, but, rather +than choose any one of them for a chief at any future time, the free men +would prefer to elect one of themselves, who bore only a very distant +relationship to the family. These free men are a distinct class who +can never be sold; and under them there is a class of slaves whose +appearance as well as position is very degraded. Monina had a great +number of young men about him from twelve to fifteen years of age. +These were all sons of free men, and bands of young men like them in the +different districts leave their parents about the age of puberty, and +live with such men as Monina for the sake of instruction. When I asked +the nature of the instruction, I was told "Bonyai", which I suppose may +be understood as indicating manhood, for it sounds as if we should say, +"to teach an American Americanism," or "an Englishman to be English." +While here they are kept in subjection to rather stringent regulations. +They must salute carefully by clapping their hands on approaching a +superior, and when any cooked food is brought, the young men may not +approach the dish, but an elder divides a portion to each. They remain +unmarried until a fresh set of youths is ready to occupy their place +under the same instruction. The parents send servants with their sons to +cultivate gardens to supply them with food, and also tusks to Monina to +purchase clothing for them. When the lads return to the village of their +parents, a case is submitted to them for adjudication, and if they speak +well on the point, the parents are highly gratified. + +When we told Monina that we had nothing to present but some hoes, he +replied that he was not in need of those articles, and that he had +absolute power over the country in front, and if he prevented us from +proceeding, no one would say any thing to him. His little boy Boromo +having come to the encampment to look at us, I gave him a knife, and +he went off and brought a pint of honey for me. The father came soon +afterward, and I offered him a shirt. He remarked to his councilors, "It +is evident that this man has nothing, for, if he had, his people +would be buying provisions, but we don't see them going about for that +purpose." His council did not agree in this. They evidently believed +that we had goods, but kept them hid, and we felt it rather hard to be +suspected of falsehood. It was probably at their suggestion that in the +evening a wardance was got up about a hundred yards from our encampment, +as if to put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents. Some +of Monina's young men had guns, but most were armed with large bows, +arrows, and spears. They beat their drums furiously, and occasionally +fired off a gun. As this sort of dance is never got up unless there is +an intention to attack, my men expected an assault. We sat and looked at +them for some time, and then, as it became dark, lay down, all ready +to give them a warm reception. But an hour or two after dark the dance +ceased, and, as we then saw no one approaching us, we went to sleep. +During the night, one of my head men, Monahin, was seen to get up, look +toward the village, and say to one who was half awake, "Don't you hear +what these people are saying? Go and listen." He then walked off in the +opposite direction, and never returned. We had no guard set, but every +one lay with his spear in his hand. The man to whom he spoke appears to +have been in a dreamy condition, for it did not strike him that he ought +to give the alarm. Next morning I found to my sorrow that Monahin was +gone, and not a trace of him could be discovered. He had an attack of +pleuritis some weeks before, and had recovered, but latterly complained +a little of his head. I observed him in good spirits on the way hither, +and in crossing some of the streams, as I was careful not to wet my +feet, he aided me, and several times joked at my becoming so light. +In the evening he sat beside my tent until it was dark, and did not +manifest any great alarm. It was probably either a sudden fit of +insanity, or, having gone a little way out from the camp, he may have +been carried off by a lion, as this part of the country is full of them. +I incline to the former opinion, because sudden insanity occurs when +there is any unusual strain upon their minds. Monahin was in command +of the Batoka of Mokwine in my party, and he was looked upon with great +dislike by all that chief's subjects. The only difficulties I had with +them arose in consequence of being obliged to give orders through him. +They said Mokwine is reported to have been killed by the Makololo, but +Monahin is the individual who put forth his hand and slew him. When +one of these people kills in battle, he seems to have no compunction +afterward; but when he makes a foray on his own responsibility, and +kills a man of note, the common people make remarks to each other, +which are reported to him, and bring the affair perpetually to his +remembrance. This iteration on the conscience causes insanity, and when +one runs away in a wide country like this, the fugitive is never heard +of. Monahin had lately become afraid of his own party from overhearing +their remarks, and said more than once to me, "They want to kill me." I +believe if he ran to any village they would take care of him. I felt +his loss greatly, and spent three days in searching for him. He was a +sensible and most obliging man. I sent in the morning to inform Monina +of this sad event, and he at once sent to all the gardens around, +desiring the people to look for him, and, should he come near, to bring +him home. He evidently sympathized with us in our sorrow, and, afraid +lest we might suspect him, added, "We never catch nor kidnap people +here. It is not our custom. It is considered as guilt among all the +tribes." I gave him credit for truthfulness, and he allowed us to move +on without farther molestation. + +After leaving his village we marched in the bed of a sand-river a +quarter of a mile broad, called Tangwe. Walking on this sand is as +fatiguing as walking on snow. The country is flat, and covered with low +trees, but we see high hills in the distance. A little to the south we +have those of the Lobole. This region is very much infested by lions, +and men never go any distance into the woods alone. Having turned aside +on one occasion at midday, and gone a short distance among grass a +little taller than myself, an animal sprung away from me which was +certainly not an antelope, but I could not distinguish whether it was a +lion or a hyaena. This abundance of carnivora made us lose all hope of +Monahin. We saw footprints of many black rhinoceroses, buffaloes, and +zebras. + +After a few hours we reached the village of Nyakoba. Two men, who +accompanied us from Monina to Nyakoba's, would not believe us when we +said that we had no beads. It is very trying to have one's veracity +doubted, but, on opening the boxes, and showing them that all I had +was perfectly useless to them, they consented to receive some beads off +Sekwebu's waist, and I promised to send four yards of calico from Tete. +As we came away from Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had been sent +for, arrived, and all Monina's wives went forth into the fields that +morning fasting. There they would be compelled to drink an infusion of a +plant named "goho", which is used as an ordeal. This ceremony is called +"muavi", and is performed in this way. When a man suspects that any of +his wives has bewitched him, he sends for the witch-doctor, and all the +wives go forth into the field, and remain fasting till that person has +made an infusion of the plant. They all drink it, each one holding up +her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocency. Those who vomit +it are considered innocent, while those whom it purges are pronounced +guilty, and put to death by burning. The innocent return to their homes, +and slaughter a cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spirits. The +practice of ordeal is common among all the negro nations north of the +Zambesi. This summary procedure excited my surprise, for my intercourse +with the natives here had led me to believe that the women were held in +so much estimation that the men would not dare to get rid of them thus. +But the explanation I received was this. The slightest imputation makes +them eagerly desire the test; they are conscious of being innocent, and +have the fullest faith in the muavi detecting the guilty alone; hence +they go willingly, and even eagerly, to drink it. When in Angola, a +half-caste was pointed out to me who is one of the most successful +merchants in that country; and the mother of this gentleman, who was +perfectly free, went, of her own accord, all the way from Ambaca to +Cassange, to be killed by the ordeal, her rich son making no objection. +The same custom prevails among the Barotse, Bashubia, and Batoka, but +with slight variations. The Barotse, for instance, pour the medicine +down the throat of a cock or of a dog, and judge of the innocence or +guilt of the person accused according to the vomiting or purging of the +animal. I happened to mention to my own men the water-test for witches +formerly in use in Scotland: the supposed witch, being bound hand and +foot, was thrown into a pond; if she floated, she was considered +guilty, taken out, and burned; but if she sank and was drowned, she was +pronounced innocent. The wisdom of my ancestors excited as much wonder +in their minds as their custom did in mine. + +The person whom Nyakoba appointed to be our guide, having informed us +of the decision, came and bargained that his services should be rewarded +with a hoe. I had no objection to give it, and showed him the article; +he was delighted with it, and went off to show it to his wife. He soon +afterward returned, and said that, though he was perfectly willing to +go, his wife would not let him. I said, "Then bring back the hoe;" but +he replied, "I want it." "Well, go with us, and you shall have it." "But +my wife won't let me." I remarked to my men, "Did you ever hear such a +fool?" They answered, "Oh, that is the custom of these parts; the wives +are the masters." And Sekwebu informed me that he had gone to this man's +house, and heard him saying to his wife, "Do you think that I would ever +leave you?" then, turning to Sekwebu, he asked, "Do you think I would +leave this pretty woman? Is she not pretty?" Sekwebu had been making +inquiries among the people, and had found that the women indeed +possessed a great deal of influence. We questioned the guide whom we +finally got from Nyakoba, an intelligent young man, who had much of +the Arab features, and found the statements confirmed. When a young man +takes a liking for a girl of another village, and the parents have no +objection to the match, he is obliged to come and live at their village. +He has to perform certain services for the mother-in-law, such as +keeping her well supplied with firewood; and when he comes into her +presence he is obliged to sit with his knees in a bent position, as +putting out his feet toward the old lady would give her great offense. +If he becomes tired of living in this state of vassalage, and wishes +to return to his own family, he is obliged to leave all his children +behind--they belong to the wife. This is only a more stringent +enforcement of the law from which emanates the practice which prevails +so very extensively in Africa, known to Europeans as "buying wives". +Such virtually it is, but it does not appear quite in that light to the +actors. So many head of cattle or goats are given to the parents of the +girl "to give her up", as it is termed, i.e., to forego all claim on +her offspring, and allow an entire transference of her and her seed into +another family. If nothing is given, the family from which she has come +can claim the children as part of itself: the payment is made to sever +this bond. In the case supposed, the young man has not been able to +advance any thing for that purpose; and, from the temptations placed +here before my men, I have no doubt that some prefer to have their +daughters married in that way, as it leads to the increase of their own +village. My men excited the admiration of the Bambiri, who took them for +a superior breed on account of their bravery in elephant-hunting, and +wished to get them as sons-in-law on the conditions named, but none +yielded to the temptation. + +We were informed that there is a child belonging to a half-caste +Portuguese in one of these tribes, and the father had tried in vain to +get him from the mother's parents. We saw several things to confirm +the impression of the higher position which women hold here; and, being +anxious to discover if I were not mistaken, when we came among the +Portuguese I inquired of them, and was told that they had ascertained +the same thing; and that, if they wished a man to perform any service +for them, he would reply, "Well, I shall go and ask my wife." If she +consented, he would go, and perform his duty faithfully; but no amount +of coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she refused. The +Portuguese praised the appearance of the Banyai, and they certainly are +a fine race. + +We got on better with Nyakoba than we expected. He has been so much +affected by the sesenda that he is quite decrepit, and requires to be +fed. I at once showed his messenger that we had nothing whatever +to give. Nyakoba was offended with him for not believing me, and he +immediately sent a basket of maize and another of corn, saying that he +believed my statement, and would send men with me to Tete who would not +lead me to any other village. + +The birds here sing very sweetly, and I thought I heard the canary, +as in Londa. We had a heavy shower of rain, and I observed that the +thermometer sank 14 Deg. in one hour afterward. From the beginning of +February we experienced a sensible diminution of temperature. In January +the lowest was 75 Deg., and that at sunrise; the average at the same +hour (sunrise) being 79 Deg.; at 3 P.M., 90 Deg.; and at sunset, 82 Deg. +In February it fell as low as 70 Deg. in the course of the night, and +the average height was 88 Deg. Only once did it rise to 94 Deg., and a +thunder-storm followed this; yet the sensation of heat was greater now +than it had been at much higher temperatures on more elevated lands. + +We passed several villages by going roundabout ways through the forest. +We saw the remains of a lion that had been killed by a buffalo, and the +horns of a putokwane (black antelope), the finest I had ever seen, which +had met its death by a lion. The drums, beating all night in one village +near which we slept, showed that some person in it had finished his +course. On the occasion of the death of a chief, a trader is liable to +be robbed, for the people consider themselves not amenable to law until +a new one is elected. We continued a very winding course, in order to +avoid the chief Katolosa, who is said to levy large sums upon those who +fall into his hands. One of our guides was a fine, tall young man, the +very image of Ben Habib the Arab. They were carrying dried buffalo's +meat to the market at Tete as a private speculation. + +A great many of the Banyai are of a light coffee-and-milk color, and, +indeed, this color is considered handsome throughout the whole country, +a fair complexion being as much a test of beauty with them as with +us. As they draw out their hair into small cords a foot in length, and +entwine the inner bark of a certain tree round each separate cord, and +dye this substance of a reddish color, many of them put me in mind of +the ancient Egyptians. The great mass of dressed hair which they possess +reaches to the shoulders, but when they intend to travel they draw it up +to a bunch, and tie it on the top of the head. They are cleanly in their +habits. + +As we did not come near human habitations, and could only take short +stages on account of the illness of one of my men, I had an opportunity +of observing the expedients my party resorted to in order to supply +their wants. Large white edible mushrooms are found on the ant-hills, +and are very good. The mokuri, a tuber which abounds in the Mopane +country, they discovered by percussing the ground with stones; and +another tuber, about the size of a turnip, called "bonga", is found +in the same situations. It does not determine to the joints like the +mokuri, and in winter has a sensible amount of salt in it. A fruit +called "ndongo" by the Makololo, "dongolo" by the Bambiri, resembles +in appearance a small plum, which becomes black when ripe, and is good +food, as the seeds are small. Many trees are known by tradition, and one +receives curious bits of information in asking about different fruits +that are met with. A tree named "shekabakadzi" is superior to all others +for making fire by friction. As its name implies, women may even readily +make fire by it when benighted. + +The country here is covered over with well-rounded shingle and gravel of +granite, gneiss with much talc in it, mica schist, and other rocks which +we saw 'in situ' between the Kafue and Loangwa. There are great mounds +of soft red sand slightly coherent, which crumble in the hand with ease. +The gravel and the sand drain away the water so effectually that the +trees are exposed to the heat during a portion of the year without any +moisture; hence they are not large, like those on the Zambesi, and are +often scrubby. The rivers are all of the sandy kind, and we pass over +large patches between this and Tete in which, in the dry season, no +water is to be found. Close on our south, the hills of Lokole rise to +a considerable height, and beyond them flows the Mazoe with its golden +sands. The great numbers of pot-holes on the sides of sandstone ridges, +when viewed in connection with the large banks of rolled shingle and +washed sand which are met with on this side of the eastern ridge, may +indicate that the sea in former times rolled its waves along its flanks. +Many of the hills between the Kafue and Loangwa have their sides of +the form seen in mud banks left by the tide. The pot-holes appear +most abundant on low gray sandstone ridges here; and as the shingle is +composed of the same rocks as the hills west of Zumbo, it looks as if +a current had dashed along from the southeast in the line in which the +pot-holes now appear; and if the current was deflected by those hills +toward the Maravi country, north of Tete, it may have hollowed the +rounded, water-worn caverns in which these people store their corn, and +also hide themselves from their enemies. I could detect no terraces on +the land, but, if I am right in my supposition, the form of this part of +the continent must once have resembled the curves or indentations seen +on the southern extremity of the American continent. In the indentation +to the S.E., S., S.W., and W. of this, lie the principal gold-washings; +and the line of the current, supposing it to have struck against the +hills of Mburuma, shows the washings in the N. and N.E. of Tete. + +We were tolerably successful in avoiding the villages, and slept one +night on the flanks of the hill Zimika, where a great number of deep +pot-holes afforded an abundant supply of good rain-water. Here, for the +first time, we saw hills with bare, smooth, rocky tops, and we crossed +over broad dikes of gneiss and syenitic porphyry: the directions in +which they lay were N. and S. As we were now near to Tete, we were +congratulating ourselves on having avoided those who would only have +plagued us; but next morning some men saw us, and ran off to inform the +neighboring villages of our passing. A party immediately pursued us, +and, as they knew we were within call of Katolosa (Monomotapa), they +threatened to send information to that chief of our offense, in passing +through the country without leave. We were obliged to give them two +small tusks; for, had they told Katolosa of our supposed offense, we +should, in all probability, have lost the whole. We then went through a +very rough, stony country without any path. Being pretty well tired +out in the evening of the 2d of March, I remained at about eight miles +distance from Tete, Tette, or Nyungwe. My men asked me to go on; I felt +too fatigued to proceed, but sent forward to the commandant the letters +of recommendation with which I had been favored in Angola by the bishop +and others, and lay down to rest. Our food having been exhausted, my men +had been subsisting for some time on roots and honey. About two o'clock +in the morning of the 3d we were aroused by two officers and a company +of soldiers, who had been sent with the materials for a civilized +breakfast and a "masheela" to bring me to Tete. (Commandant's house: +lat. 16d 9' 3" S., long. 33d 28' E.) My companions thought that we were +captured by the armed men, and called me in alarm. When I understood +the errand on which they had come, and had partaken of a good breakfast, +though I had just before been too tired to sleep, all my fatigue +vanished. It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever partook of, and +I walked the last eight miles without the least feeling of weariness, +although the path was so rough that one of the officers remarked to +me, "This is enough to tear a man's life out of him." The pleasure +experienced in partaking of that breakfast was only equaled by the +enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's bed on my arrival at Loanda. It was also +enhanced by the news that Sebastopol had fallen and the war was +finished. + + Note.--Having neglected, in referring to the footprints of the + rhinoceros, + to mention what may be interesting to naturalists, I add it here + in a note; + that wherever the footprints are seen, there are also marks of the + animal + having plowed up the ground and bushes with his horn. This has + been supposed + to indicate that he is subject to "fits of ungovernable rage"; + but, when seen, he appears rather to be rejoicing in his strength. + He acts as a bull sometimes does when he gores the earth with his + horns. + The rhinoceros, in addition to this, stands on a clump of bushes, + bends his back down, and scrapes the ground with his feet, + throwing it out backward, as if to stretch and clean his toes, + in the same way that a dog may be seen to do on a little grass: + this is certainly not rage. + + + + +Chapter 31. + +Kind Reception from the Commandant--His Generosity to my Men--The +Village of Tete--The Population--Distilled Spirits--The Fort--Cause +of the Decadence of Portuguese Power--Former Trade--Slaves employed +in Gold-washing--Slave-trade drained the Country of Laborers--The +Rebel Nyaude's Stockade--He burns Tete--Kisaka's Revolt and +Ravages--Extensive Field of Sugar-cane--The Commandant's good +Reputation among the Natives--Providential Guidance--Seams of Coal--A +hot Spring--Picturesque Country--Water-carriage to the Coal-fields-- +Workmen's Wages--Exports--Price of Provisions--Visit Gold-washings-- +The Process of obtaining the precious Metal--Coal within a Gold-field-- +Present from Major Sicard--Natives raise Wheat, etc.--Liberality of +the Commandant--Geographical Information from Senhor +Candido--Earthquakes--Native Ideas of a Supreme Being--Also of the +Immortality and Transmigration of Souls--Fondness for Display at +Funerals--Trade Restrictions--Former Jesuit Establishment--State of +Religion and Education at Tete--Inundation of the Zambesi--Cotton +cultivated--The fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze--Detained by Fever--The +Kumbanzo Bark--Native Medicines--Iron, its Quality--Hear of Famine +at Kilimane--Death of a Portuguese Lady--The Funeral--Disinterested +Kindness of the Portuguese. + + + +I was most kindly received by the commandant Tito Augusto d'Araujo +Sicard, who did every thing in his power to restore me from my emaciated +condition; and, as this was still the unhealthy period at Kilimane, +he advised me to remain with him until the following month. He also +generously presented my men with abundant provisions of millet; and, by +giving them lodgings in a house of his own until they could erect their +own huts, he preserved them from the bite of the tampans, here named +Carapatos.* We had heard frightful accounts of this insect while among +the Banyai, and Major Sicard assured me that to strangers its bite is +more especially dangerous, as it sometimes causes fatal fever. It may +please our homoeopathic friends to hear that, in curing the bite of +the tampan, the natives administer one of the insects bruised in the +medicine employed. + + * Another insect, resembling a maggot, burrows into the feet + of the natives and sucks their blood. Mr. Westwood says, "The + tampan is a large species of mite, closely allied to the + poisonous bug (as it is called) of Persia, 'Argos reflexus', + respecting which such marvelous accounts have been recorded, + and which the statement respecting the carapato or tampan + would partially confirm." Mr. W. also thinks that the poison- + yielding larva called N'gwa is a "species of chrysomelidae. + The larvae of the British species of that family exude a fetid + yellow thickish fluid when alarmed, but he has not heard that + any of them are at all poisonous." + +The village of Tete is built on a long slope down to the river, the fort +being close to the water. The rock beneath is gray sandstone, and has +the appearance of being crushed away from the river: the strata have +thus a crumpled form. The hollow between each crease is a street, the +houses being built upon the projecting fold. The rocks at the top of the +slope are much higher than the fort, and of course completely command +it. There is then a large valley, and beyond that an oblong hill called +Karueira. The whole of the adjacent country is rocky and broken, but +every available spot is under cultivation. The stone houses in Tete are +cemented with mud instead of lime, and thatched with reeds and grass. +The rains, having washed out the mud between the stones, give all the +houses a rough, untidy appearance. No lime was known to be found nearer +than Mozambique; some used in making seats in the verandas had actually +been brought all that distance. The Portuguese evidently knew nothing +of the pink and white marbles which I found at the Mbai, and another +rivulet, named the Unguesi, near it, and of which I brought home +specimens, nor yet of the dolomite which lies so near to Zumbo: +they might have burned the marble into lime without going so far as +Mozambique. There are about thirty European houses; the rest are native, +and of wattle and daub. A wall about ten feet high is intended to +inclose the village, but most of the native inhabitants prefer to live +on different spots outside. There are about twelve hundred huts in all, +which with European households would give a population of about four +thousand five hundred souls. Only a small proportion of these, however, +live on the spot; the majority are engaged in agricultural operations +in the adjacent country. Generally there are not more than two thousand +people resident, for, compared with what it was, Tete is now a ruin. The +number of Portuguese is very small; if we exclude the military, it is +under twenty. Lately, however, one hundred and five soldiers were sent +from Portugal to Senna, where in one year twenty-five were cut off by +fever. They were then removed to Tete, and here they enjoy much better +health, though, from the abundance of spirits distilled from various +plants, wild fruits, and grain, in which pernicious beverage they +largely indulge, besides partaking chiefly of unwholesome native food, +better health could scarcely have been expected. The natives here +understand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels, and a +succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep them cool. The +general report of the fever here is that, while at Kilimane the fever +is continuous, at Tete a man recovers in about three days. The mildest +remedies only are used at first, and, if that period be passed, then the +more severe. + +The fort of Tete has been the salvation of the Portuguese power in this +quarter. It is a small square building, with a thatched apartment for +the residence of the troops; and, though there are but few guns, they +are in a much better state than those of any fort in the interior of +Angola. The cause of the decadence of the Portuguese power in this +region is simply this: In former times, considerable quantities of +grain, as wheat, millet, and maize, were exported; also coffee, sugar, +oil, and indigo, besides gold-dust and ivory. The cultivation of grain +was carried on by means of slaves, of whom the Portuguese possessed a +large number. The gold-dust was procured by washing at various points on +the north, south, and west of Tete. A merchant took all his slaves with +him to the washings, carrying as much calico and other goods as he could +muster. On arriving at the washing-place, he made a present to the chief +of the value of about a pound sterling. The slaves were then divided +into parties, each headed by a confidential servant, who not only had +the supervision of his squad while the washing went on, but bought +dust from the inhabitants, and made a weekly return to his master. When +several masters united at one spot, it was called a "Bara", and they +then erected a temporary church, in which a priest from one of the +missions performed mass. Both chiefs and people were favorable to these +visits, because the traders purchased grain for the sustenance of the +slaves with the goods they had brought. They continued at this labor +until the whole of the goods were expended, and by this means about +130 lbs. of gold were annually produced. Probably more than this was +actually obtained, but, as it was an article easily secreted, this alone +was submitted to the authorities for taxation. At present the whole +amount of gold obtained annually by the Portuguese is from 8 to 10 lbs. +only. When the slave-trade began, it seemed to many of the merchants a +more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves than to pursue +the slow mode of gold-washing and agriculture, and they continued to +export them until they had neither hands to labor nor to fight for them. +It was just the story of the goose and the golden egg. The coffee and +sugar plantations and gold-washings were abandoned, because the labor +had been exported to the Brazils. Many of the Portuguese then followed +their slaves, and the government was obliged to pass a law to prevent +further emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopulated the +Portuguese possessions altogether. A clever man of Asiatic (Goa) and +Portuguese extraction, called Nyaude, now built a stockade at the +confluence of the Luenya and Zambesi; and when the commandant of Tete +sent an officer with his company to summon him to his presence, Nyaude +asked permission of the officer to dress himself, which being granted, +he went into an inner apartment, and the officer ordered his men to pile +their arms. A drum of war began to beat a note which is well known to +the inhabitants. Some of the soldiers took the alarm on hearing this +note, but the officer, disregarding their warning, was, with his whole +party, in a few minutes disarmed and bound hand and foot. The commandant +of Tete then armed the whole body of slaves and marched against the +stockade of Nyaude, but when they came near to it there was the Luenya +still to cross. As they did not effect this speedily, Nyaude dispatched +a strong party under his son Bonga across the river below the stockade, +and up the left bank of the Zambesi until they came near to Tete. They +then attacked Tete, which was wholly undefended save by a few soldiers +in the fort, plundered and burned the whole town except the house of +the commandant and a few others, with the church and fort. The women and +children fled into the church; and it is a remarkable fact that none of +the natives of this region will ever attack a church. Having rendered +Tete a ruin, Bonga carried off all the cattle and plunder to his father. +News of this having been brought to the army before the stockade, a +sudden panic dispersed the whole; and as the fugitives took roundabout +ways in their flight, Katolosa, who had hitherto pretended to be +friendly with the Portuguese, sent out his men to capture as many of +them as they could. They killed many for the sake of their arms. This is +the account which both natives and Portuguese give of the affair. + +Another half-caste from Macao, called Kisaka or Choutama, on the +opposite bank of the river, likewise rebelled. His father having +died, he imagined that he had been bewitched by the Portuguese, and he +therefore plundered and burned all the plantations of the rich merchants +of Tete on the north bank. As I have before remarked, that bank is the +most fertile, and there the Portuguese had their villas and plantations +to which they daily retired from Tete. When these were destroyed the +Tete people were completely impoverished. An attempt was made to +punish this rebel, but it was also unsuccessful, and he has lately been +pardoned by the home government. One point in the narrative of this +expedition is interesting. They came to a field of sugar-cane so large +that 4000 men eating it during two days did not finish the whole. The +Portuguese were thus placed between two enemies, Nyaude on the right +bank and Kisaka on the left, and not only so, but Nyaude, having placed +his stockade on the point of land on the right banks of both the Luenya +and Zambesi, and washed by both these rivers, could prevent intercourse +with the sea. The Luenya rushes into the Zambesi with great force when +the latter is low, and, in coming up the Zambesi, boats must cross it +and the Luenya separately, even going a little way up that river, so +as not to be driven away by its current in the bed of the Zambesi, and +dashed on the rock which stands on the opposite shore. In coming up +to the Luenya for this purpose, all boats and canoes came close to the +stockade to be robbed. Nyaude kept the Portuguese shut up in their fort +at Tete during two years, and they could only get goods sufficient to +buy food by sending to Kilimane by an overland route along the north +bank of the Zambesi. The mother country did not in these "Caffre wars" +pay the bills, so no one either became rich or blamed the missionaries. + +The merchants were unable to engage in trade, and commerce, which the +slave-trade had rendered stagnant, was now completely obstructed. The +present commandant of Tete, Major Sicard, having great influence among +the natives, from his good character, put a stop to the war more than +once by his mere presence on the spot. We heard of him among the Banyai +as a man with whom they would never fight, because "he had a good +heart." Had I come down to this coast instead of going to Loanda in +1853, I should have come among the belligerents while the war was still +raging, and should probably have been cut off. My present approach was +just at the conclusion of the peace; and when the Portuguese authorities +here were informed, through the kind offices of Lord Clarendon and Count +de Lavradio, that I was expected to come this way, they all declared +that such was the existing state of affairs that no European could +possibly pass through the tribes. Some natives at last came down the +river to Tete and said, alluding to the sextant and artificial horizon, +that "the Son of God had come," and that he was "able to take the sun +down from the heavens and place it under his arm!" Major Sicard then +felt sure that this was the man mentioned in Lord Clarendon's dispatch. + +On mentioning to the commandant that I had discovered a small seam of +coal, he stated that the Portuguese were already aware of nine such +seams, and that five of them were on the opposite bank of the river. +As soon as I had recovered from my fatigue I went to examine them. We +proceeded in a boat to the mouth of the Lofubu or Revubu, which is about +two miles below Tete, and on the opposite or northern bank. Ascending +this about four miles against a strong current of beautifully clear +water, we landed near a small cataract, and walked about two miles +through very fertile gardens to the seam, which we found to be in one of +the feeders of the Lofubu, called Muatize or Motize. The seam is in +the perpendicular bank, and dips into the rivulet, or in a northerly +direction. There is, first of all, a seam 10 inches in diameter, then +some shale, below which there is another seam, 58 inches of which are +seen, and, as the bottom touches the water of the Muatize, it may be +more. This part of the seam is about 30 yards long. There is then a +fault. About 100 yards higher up the stream black vesicular trap +is seen, penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the country, +converting it into porcellanite, and partially crystallizing the coal +with which it came into contact. On the right bank of the Lofubu there +is another feeder entering that river near its confluence with the +Muatize, which is called the Morongozi, in which there is another and +still larger bed of coal exposed. Farther up the Lofubu there are other +seams in the rivulets Inyavu and Makare; also several spots in the +Maravi country have the coal cropping out. This has evidently been +brought to the surface by volcanic action at a later period than the +coal formation. + +I also went up the Zambesi, and visited a hot spring called Nyamboronda, +situated in the bed of a small rivulet named Nyaondo, which shows that +igneous action is not yet extinct. We landed at a small rivulet called +Mokorozi, then went a mile or two to the eastward, where we found a hot +fountain at the bottom of a high hill. A little spring bubbles up on one +side of the rivulet Nyaondo, and a great quantity of acrid steam rises +up from the ground adjacent, about 12 feet square of which is so hot +that my companions could not stand on it with their bare feet. There are +several little holes from which the water trickles, but the principal +spring is in a hole a foot in diameter, and about the same in depth. +Numbers of bubbles are constantly rising. The steam feels acrid in the +throat, but is not inflammable, as it did not burn when I held a bunch +of lighted grass over the bubbles. The mercury rises to 158 Deg. when +the thermometer is put into the water in the hole, but after a few +seconds it stands steadily at 160 Deg. Even when flowing over the stones +the water is too hot for the hand. Little fish frequently leap out of +the stream in the bed of which the fountain rises, into the hot +water, and get scalded to death. We saw a frog which had performed the +experiment, and was now cooked. The stones over which the water flows +are incrusted with a white salt, and the water has a saline taste. The +ground has been dug out near the fountain by the natives, in order to +extract the salt it contains. It is situated among rocks of syenitic +porphyry in broad dikes, and gneiss tilted on edge, and having a +strike to the N.E. There are many specimens of half-formed pumice, with +greenstone and lava. Some of the sandstone strata are dislocated by a +hornblende rock and by basalt, the sandstone nearest to the basalt being +converted into quartz. + +The country around, as indeed all the district lying N. and N.W. of +Tete, is hilly, and, the hills being covered with trees, the scenery +is very picturesque. The soil of the valleys is very fruitful and well +cultivated. There would not be much difficulty in working the coal. The +Lofubu is about 60 yards broad; it flows perennially, and at its very +lowest period, which is after September, there is water about 18 inches +deep, which could be navigated in flat-bottomed boats. At the time of +my visit it was full, and the current was very strong. If the small +cataract referred to were to be avoided, the land-carriage beyond would +only be about two miles. The other seams farther up the river may, +after passing the cataract, be approached more easily than that in the +Muatize; as the seam, however, dips down into the stream, no drainage of +the mine would be required, for if water were come to it would run into +the stream. I did not visit the others, but I was informed that there +are seams in the independent native territory as well as in that of the +Portuguese. That in the Nake is in the Banyai country, and, indeed, I +have no doubt but that the whole country between Zumbo and Lupata is a +coal-field of at least 2-1/2 Deg. of latitude in breadth, having many +faults, made during the time of the igneous action. The gray sandstone +rock having silicified trees lying on it is of these dimensions. The +plantation in which the seam of coal exists would be valued among +the Portuguese at about 60 dollars or 12 Pounds, but much more would +probably be asked if a wealthy purchaser appeared. They could not, +however, raise the price very much higher, because estates containing +coal might be had from the native owners at a much cheaper rate. The +wages of free laborers, when employed in such work as gold-washing, +agriculture, or digging coal, is 2 yards of unbleached calico per day. +They might be got to work cheaper if engaged by the moon, or for about +16 yards per month. For masons and carpenters even, the ordinary rate is +2 yards per day. This is called 1 braca. Tradesmen from Kilimane demand +4 bracas, or 8 yards, per day. English or American unbleached calico is +the only currency used. The carriage of goods up the river to Tete adds +about 10 per cent. to their cost. The usual conveyance is by means of +very large canoes and launches built at Senna. + +The amount of merchandise brought up during the five months of peace +previous to my visit was of the value of 30,000 dollars, or about 6000 +Pounds. The annual supply of goods for trade is about 15,000 Pounds, +being calico, thick brass wire, beads, gunpowder, and guns. The quantity +of the latter is, however, small, as the government of Mozambique made +that article contraband after the commencement of the war. Goods, when +traded with in the tribes around the Portuguese, produce a profit +of only about 10 per cent., the articles traded in being ivory and +gold-dust. A little oil and wheat are exported, but nothing else. Trade +with the tribes beyond the exclusive ones is much better. Thirty brass +rings cost 10s. at Senna, 1 Pound at Tete, and 2 Pounds beyond the +tribes in the vicinity of Tete; these are a good price for a penful of +gold-dust of the value of 2 Pounds. The plantations of coffee, which, +previous to the commencement of the slave-trade, yielded one material +for exportation, are now deserted, and it is difficult to find a single +tree. The indigo ('Indigofera argentea', the common wild indigo of +Africa) is found growing every where, and large quantities of the +senna-plant* grow in the village of Tete and other parts, but neither +indigo nor senna is collected. Calumba-root, which is found in abundance +in some parts farther down the river, is bought by the Americans, it is +said, to use as a dye-stuff. A kind of sarsaparilla, or a plant which is +believed by the Portuguese to be such, is found from Londa to Senna, but +has never been exported. + + * These appear to belong to 'Cassia acutifolia', or true senna + of commerce, found in various parts of Africa and India.--Dr. + Hooker. + +The price of provisions is low, but very much higher than previous to +the commencement of the war. Two yards of calico are demanded for six +fowls; this is considered very dear, because, before the war, the same +quantity of calico was worth 24 fowls. Grain is sold in little bags made +from the leaves of the palmyra, like those in which we receive sugar. +They are called panjas, and each panja weighs between 30 and 40 lbs. The +panja of wheat at Tete is worth a dollar, or 5s.; but the native grain +may be obtained among the islands below Lupata at the rate of three +panjas for two yards of calico. The highest articles of consumption are +tea and coffee, the tea being often as high as 15s. a pound. Food is +cheaper down the river below Lupata, and, previous to the war, the +islands which stud the Zambesi were all inhabited, and, the soil being +exceedingly fertile, grain and fowls could be got to any amount. The +inhabitants disappeared before their enemies the Landeens, but are +beginning to return since the peace. They have no cattle, the only place +where we found no tsetse being the district of Tete itself; and the +cattle in the possession of the Portuguese are a mere remnant of what +they formerly owned. + +When visiting the hot fountain, I examined what were formerly the +gold-washings in the rivulet Mokoroze, which is nearly on the 16th +parallel of latitude. The banks are covered with large groves of fine +mango-trees, among which the Portuguese lived while superintending the +washing for the precious metal. The process of washing is very laborious +and tedious. A quantity of sand is put into a wooden bowl with water; +a half rotatory motion is given to the dish, which causes the coarser +particles of sand to collect on one side of the bottom. These are +carefully removed with the hand, and the process of rotation renewed +until the whole of the sand is taken away, and the gold alone remains. +It is found in very minute scales, and, unless I had been assured to the +contrary, I should have taken it to be mica, for, knowing the gold to be +of greater specific gravity than the sand, I imagined that a stream +of water would remove the latter and leave the former; but here the +practice is to remove the whole of the sand by the hand. This process +was, no doubt, a profitable one to the Portuguese, and it is probable +that, with the improved plan by means of mercury, the sands would +be lucrative. I had an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from +different parts to the east and northeast of Tete. There are six +well-known washing-places. These are called Mashinga, Shindundo, +Missala, Kapata, Mano, and Jawa. From the description of the rock I +received, I suppose gold is found both in clay shale and quartz. At the +range Mushinga to the N.N.W. the rock is said to be so soft that the +women pound it into powder in wooden mortars previous to washing. + +Round toward the westward, the old Portuguese indicate a station which +was near to Zumbo on the River Panyame, and called Dambarari, near which +much gold was found. Farther west lay the now unknown kingdom of Abutua, +which was formerly famous for the metal; and then, coming round toward +the east, we have the gold-washings of the Mashona, or Bazizulu, and, +farther east, that of Manica, where gold is found much more abundantly +than in any other part, and which has been supposed by some to be the +Ophir of King Solomon. I saw the gold from this quarter as large as +grains of wheat, that found in the rivers which run into the coal-field +being in very minute scales. If we place one leg of the compasses at +Tete, and extend the other three and a half degrees, bringing it round +from the northeast of Tete by west, and then to the southeast, we nearly +touch or include all the known gold-producing country. As the gold +on this circumference is found in coarser grains than in the streams +running toward the centre, or Tete, I imagine that the real gold-field +lies round about the coal-field; and, if I am right in the conjecture, +then we have coal encircled by a gold-field, and abundance of wood, +water, and provisions--a combination not often met with in the world. +The inhabitants are not unfavorable to washings, conducted on the +principle formerly mentioned. At present they wash only when in want of +a little calico. They know the value of gold perfectly well, for they +bring it for sale in goose-quills, and demand 24 yards of calico for one +penful. When the rivers in the district of Manica and other gold-washing +places have been flooded, they leave a coating of mud on the banks. The +natives observe the spots which dry soonest, and commence digging there, +in firm belief that gold lies beneath. They are said not to dig deeper +than their chins, believing that if they did so the ground would fall in +and kill them. When they find a 'piece' or flake of gold, they bury it +again, from the superstitious idea that this is the seed of the gold, +and, though they know the value of it well, they prefer losing it rather +than the whole future crop. This conduct seemed to me so very unlikely +in men who bring the dust in quills, and even put in a few seeds of a +certain plant as a charm to prevent their losing any of it on the way, +that I doubted the authority of my informant; but I found the report +verified by all the Portuguese who knew the native language and mode of +thinking, and give the statement for what it is worth. If it is really +practiced, the custom may have been introduced by some knowing one +who wished to defraud the chiefs of their due; for we are informed in +Portuguese history that in former times these pieces or flakes of gold +were considered the perquisites of the chiefs. + +Major Sicard, the commandant, whose kindness to me and my people was +unbounded, presented a rosary made of the gold of the country, the +workmanship of a native of Tete, to my little daughter; also specimens +of the gold-dust of three different places, which, with the coal of +Muatize and Morongoze, are deposited in the Museum of Practical Geology, +Jermyn Street, London. + +All the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native manner, +and considerable quantities of 'Holcus sorghum', maize, 'Pennisetum +typhoideum', or lotsa of the Balonda, millet, rice, and wheat are +raised, as also several kinds of beans--one of which, called "litloo" by +the Bechuanas, yields under ground, as well as the 'Arachis hypogaea', +or ground-nut; with cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons. The wheat is sown +in low-lying places which are annually flooded by the Zambesi. When the +waters retire, the women drop a few grains in a hole made with a hoe, +then push back the soil with the foot. One weeding alone is required +before the grain comes to maturity. This simple process represents all +our subsoil plowing, liming, manuring, and harrowing, for in four months +after planting a good crop is ready for the sickle, and has been +known to yield a hundred-fold. It flourished still more at Zumbo. No +irrigation is required, because here there are gentle rains, almost +like mist, in winter, which go by the name of "wheat-showers", and are +unknown in the interior, where no winter rain ever falls. The rains +at Tete come from the east, though the prevailing winds come from the +S.S.E. The finest portion of the flour does not make bread nearly so +white as the seconds, and here the boyaloa (pombe), or native beer, +is employed to mix with the flour instead of yeast. It makes excellent +bread. At Kilimane, where the cocoanut palm abounds, the toddy from it, +called "sura", is used for the same purpose, and makes the bread still +lighter. + +As it was necessary to leave most of my men at this place, Major Sicard +gave them a portion of land on which to cultivate their own food, +generously supplying them with corn in the mean time. He also said that +my young men might go and hunt elephants in company with his servants, +and purchase goods with both the ivory and dried meat, in order that +they might have something to take with them on their return to Sekeletu. +The men were delighted with his liberality, and soon sixty or seventy of +them set off to engage in this enterprise. There was no calico to be +had at this time in Tete, but the commandant handsomely furnished my men +with clothing. I was in a state of want myself, and, though I pressed +him to take payment in ivory for both myself and men, he refused all +recompense. I shall ever remember his kindness with deep gratitude. He +has written me, since my arrival in England, that my men had killed four +elephants in the course of two months after my departure. + +On the day of my arrival I was visited by all the gentlemen of the +village, both white and colored, including the padre. Not one of them +had any idea as to where the source of the Zambesi lay. They sent for +the best traveled natives, but none of them knew the river even as +far as Kansala. The father of one of the rebels who had been fighting +against them had been a great traveler to the southwest, and had even +heard of our visit to Lake Ngami; but he was equally ignorant with all +the others that the Zambesi flowed in the centre of the country. They +had, however, more knowledge of the country to the north of Tete than I +had. One man, who had gone to Cazembe with Major Monteiro, stated +that he had seen the Luapura or Loapula flowing past the town of that +chieftain into the Luameji or Leeambye, but imagined that it found its +way, somehow or other, into Angola. The fact that sometimes rivers were +seen to flow like this toward the centre of the country, led geographers +to the supposition that inner Africa was composed of elevated sandy +plains, into which rivers ran and were lost. One of the gentlemen +present, Senhor Candido, had visited a lake 45 days to the N.N.W. of +Tete, which is probably the Lake Maravi of geographers, as in going +thither they pass through the people of that name. The inhabitants of +its southern coast are named Shiva; those on the north, Mujao; and they +call the lake Nyanja or Nyanje, which simply means a large water, or +bed of a large river. A high mountain stands in the middle of it, called +Murombo or Murombola, which is inhabited by people who have much cattle. +He stated that he crossed the Nyanja at a narrow part, and was 36 hours +in the passage. The canoes were punted the whole way, and, if we take +the rate about two miles per hour, it may be sixty or seventy miles in +breadth. The country all round was composed of level plains covered with +grass, and, indeed, in going thither they traveled seven or eight days +without wood, and cooked their food with grass and stalks of native +corn alone. The people sold their cattle at a very cheap rate. From the +southern extremity of the lake two rivers issue forth: one, named after +itself, the Nyanja, which passes into the sea on the east coast under +another name; and the Shire, which flows into the Zambesi a little below +Senna. The Shire is named Shirwa at its point of departure from the +lake, and Senhor Candido was informed, when there, that the lake was +simply an expansion of the River Nyanja, which comes from the north +and encircles the mountain Murombo, the meaning of which is junction +or union, in reference to the water having parted at its northern +extremity, and united again at its southern. The Shire flows through +a low, flat, marshy country, but abounding in population, and they are +said to be brave. The Portuguese are unable to navigate the Shire up to +the Lake Nyanja, because of the great abundance of a water-plant which +requires no soil, and which they name "alfacinya" ('Pistia stratiotes'), +from its resemblance to a lettuce. This completely obstructs the +progress of canoes. In confirmation of this I may state that, when I +passed the mouth of the Shire, great quantities of this same plant were +floating from it into the Zambesi, and many parts of the banks below +were covered with the dead plants. + +Senhor Candido stated that slight earthquakes have happened several +times in the country of the Maravi, and at no great distance from Tete. +The motion seems to come from the eastward, and never to have lasted +more than a few seconds. They are named in the Maravi tongue "shiwo", +and in that of the people of Tete "shitakoteko", or "shivering". This +agrees exactly with what has taken place in the coast of Mozambique--a +few slight shocks of short duration, and all appearing to come from the +east. At Senna, too, a single shock has been felt several times, which +shook the doors and windows, and made the glasses jingle. Both Tete and +Senna have hot springs in their vicinity, but the shocks seemed to come, +not from them, but from the east, and proceed to the west. They are +probably connected with the active volcanoes in the island of Bourbon. + +As Senhor Candido holds the office of judge in all the disputes of the +natives, and knows their language perfectly, his statement may be relied +on that all the natives of this region have a clear idea of a Supreme +Being, the maker and governor of all things. He is named "Morimo", +"Molungo", "Reza", "Mpambe", in the different dialects spoken. The +Barotse name him "Nyampi", and the Balonda "Zambi". All promptly +acknowledge him as the ruler over all. They also fully believe in the +soul's continued existence apart from the body, and visit the graves +of relatives, making offerings of food, beer, etc. When undergoing the +ordeal, they hold up their hands to the Ruler of Heaven, as if appealing +to him to assert their innocence. When they escape, or recover from +sickness, or are delivered from any danger, they offer a sacrifice of a +fowl or a sheep, pouring out the blood as a libation to the soul of some +departed relative. They believe in the transmigration of souls, and +also that while persons are still living they may enter into lions and +alligators, and then return again to their own bodies. + +While still at Tete the son of Monomotapa paid the commandant a visit. +He is named Mozungo, or "White Man", has a narrow tapering head, and +probably none of the ability or energy his father possessed. He was +the favorite of his father, who hoped that he would occupy his place. +A strong party, however, in the tribe placed Katalosa in the +chieftainship, and the son became, as they say, a child of this man. The +Portuguese have repeatedly received offers of territory if they would +only attend the interment of the departed chief with troops, fire off +many rounds of cartridges over the grave, and then give eclat to the +installment of the new chief. Their presence would probably influence +the election, for many would vote on the side of power, and a candidate +might feel it worth while to grant a good piece of land, if thereby he +could secure the chieftainship to himself. When the Portuguese traders +wish to pass into the country beyond Katalosa, they present him with +about thirty-two yards of calico and some other goods, and he then gives +them leave to pass in whatever direction they choose to go. They must, +however, give certain quantities of cloth to a number of inferior chiefs +beside, and they are subject to the game-laws. They have thus a body of +exclusive tribes around them, preventing direct intercourse between them +and the population beyond. It is strange that, when they had the power, +they did not insist on the free navigation of the Zambesi. I can only +account for this in the same way in which I accounted for a similar +state of things in the west. All the traders have been in the hands of +slaves, and have wanted that moral courage which a free man, with free +servants on whom he can depend, usually possesses. If the English had +been here, they would have insisted on the free navigation of this +pathway as an indispensable condition of friendship. The present system +is a serious difficulty in the way of developing the resources of +the country, and might prove fatal to an unarmed expedition. If this +desirable and most fertile field of enterprise is ever to be opened up, +men must proceed on a different plan from that which has been followed, +and I do not apprehend there would be much difficulty in commencing a +new system, if those who undertook it insisted that it is not our +custom to pay for a highway which has not been made by man. The natives +themselves would not deny that the river is free to those who do not +trade in slaves. If, in addition to an open, frank explanation, a small +subsidy were given to the paramount chief, the willing consent of all +the subordinates would soon be secured. + +On the 1st of April I went to see the site of a former establishment +of the Jesuits, called Micombo, about ten miles S.E. of Tete. Like all +their settlements I have seen, both judgment and taste had been employed +in the selection of the site. A little stream of mineral water had been +collected in a tank and conducted to their house, before which was a +little garden for raising vegetables at times of the year when no rain +falls. It is now buried in a deep shady grove of mango-trees. I was +accompanied by Captain Nunes, whose great-grandfather, also a captain in +the time of the Marquis of Pombal, received sealed orders, to be opened +only on a certain day. When that day arrived, he found the command to go +with his company, seize all the Jesuits of this establishment, and march +them as prisoners to the coast. The riches of the fraternity, which were +immense, were taken possession of by the state. Large quantities of gold +had often been sent to their superiors at Goa, inclosed in images. The +Jesuits here do not seem to have possessed the sympathies of the people +as their brethren in Angola did. They were keen traders in ivory and +gold-dust. All praise their industry. Whatever they did, they did it +with all their might, and probably their successful labors in securing +the chief part of the trade to themselves had excited the envy of the +laity. None of the natives here can read; and though the Jesuits are +said to have translated some of the prayers into the language of the +country, I was unable to obtain a copy. The only religious teachers now +in this part of the country are two gentlemen of color, natives of +Goa. The one who officiates at Tete, named Pedro Antonio d'Araujo, is +a graduate in Dogmatic Theology and Moral Philosophy. There is but a +single school in Tete, and it is attended only by the native Portuguese +children, who are taught to read and write. The black population is +totally uncared for. The soldiers are marched every Sunday to hear mass, +and but few others attend church. During the period of my stay, a kind +of theatrical representation of our Savior's passion and resurrection +was performed. The images and other paraphernalia used were of great +value, but the present riches of the Church are nothing to what it once +possessed. The commandant is obliged to lock up all the gold and silver +in the fort for safety, though not from any apprehension of its being +stolen by the people, for they have a dread of sacrilege. + +The state of religion and education is, I am sorry to say, as low as +that of commerce; but the European Portuguese value education highly, +and send their children to Goa and elsewhere for instruction in the +higher branches. There is not a single bookseller's shop, however, in +either eastern or western Africa. Even Loanda, with its 12,000 or 14,000 +souls, can not boast of one store for the sale of food for the mind. + +On the 2d the Zambesi suddenly rose several feet in height. Three such +floods are expected annually, but this year there were four. This last +was accompanied by discoloration, and must have been caused by another +great fall of rain east of the ridge. We had observed a flood of +discolored water when we reached the river at the Kafue; it then fell +two feet, and from subsequent rains again rose so high that we were +obliged to leave it when opposite the hill Pinkwe. About the 10th of +March the river rose several feet with comparatively clear water, and +it continued to rise until the 21st, with but very slight discoloration. +This gradual rise was the greatest, and was probably caused by the water +of inundation in the interior. The sudden rise which happened on the +2d, being deeply discolored, showed again the effect of rains at a +comparatively short distance. The fact of the river rising three or four +times annually, and the one flood of inundation being mixed with the +others, may account for the Portuguese not recognizing the phenomenon of +the periodical inundation, so well known in the central country. + +The independent natives cultivate a little cotton, but it is not at all +equal, either in quantity or quality, to what we found in Angola. The +pile is short, and it clings to the seed so much that they use an iron +roller to detach it. The soil, however, is equal to the production of +any tropical plant or fruit. The natives have never been encouraged to +cultivate cotton for sale, nor has any new variety been introduced. We +saw no palm-oil-trees, the oil which is occasionally exported being from +the ground-nut. One of the merchants of Tete had a mill of the rudest +construction for grinding this nut, which was driven by donkeys. It +was the only specimen of a machine I could exhibit to my men. A very +superior kind of salad oil is obtained from the seeds of cucumbers, and +is much used in native cookery. + +An offer, said to have been made by the "Times", having excited +attention even in this distant part, I asked the commandant if he knew +of any plant fit for the production of paper. He procured specimens of +the fibrous tissue of a species of aloe, named Conge, and some also from +the root of a wild date, and, lastly, of a plant named Buaze, the fibres +of which, though useless for the manufacture of paper, are probably +a suitable substitute for flax. I submitted a small quantity of these +fibres to Messrs. Pye, Brothers, of London, who have invented a superior +mode for the preparation of such tissues for the manufacturer. They most +politely undertook the examination, and have given a favorable opinion +of the Buaze, as may be seen in the note below.* + + * + 80 Lombard Street, 20th March, 1857. + + Dear Sir,--We have the pleasure to return you the specimens of + fibrous plants from the Zambesi River, on which you were + desirous to see the effects of our treatment; we therefore + inclose to you, + + No. 1. Buaze, in the state received from you. + 1 A. Do. as prepared by us. + 1 B. The tow which has come from it in hackling. + No. 2. Conge, as received from you. + 2 A. Do. as prepared by us. + + With regard to both these fibres, we must state that the VERY + MINUTE QUANTITY of each specimen has prevented our subjecting + them to any thing like the full treatment of our process, and + we can therefore only give you an APPROXIMATE idea of their + value. + + The Buaze evidently possesses a very strong and fine fibre, + assimilating to flax in its character, but we believe, when + treated IN QUANTITY by our process, it would show both a + stronger and finer fibre than flax; but being unable to apply + the rolling or pressing processes with any efficiency to so + very small a quantity, the gums are not yet so perfectly + extracted as they would be, nor the fibre opened out to so + fine a quality as it would then exhibit. + + This is even yet more the case with the Conge, which, being + naturally a harsh fibre, full of gums, wants exactly that + powerful treatment which our process is calculated to give it, + but which can not be applied to such miniature specimens. We + do not therefore consider this as more than half treated, its + fibre consequently remaining yet harsh, and coarse, and stiff, + as compared with what it would be if treated IN QUANTITY. + + Judging that it would be satisfactory to you to be in + possession of the best practical opinion to be obtained on + such a subject, we took the liberty of forwarding your little + specimens to Messrs. Marshall, of Leeds, who have kindly + favored us with the following observations on them: + + "We have examined the samples you sent us yesterday, and think + the Conge or aloe fibre would be of no use to us, but the + Buaze fibre appears to resemble flax, and as prepared by you + will be equal to flax worth 50 Pounds or 60 Pounds per ton, + but we could hardly speak positively to the value unless we + had 1 cwt. or 2 cwt. to try on our machinery. However, we + think the result is promising, and we hope further inquiry + will be made as to the probable supply of the material." + + We are, dear sir, your very obedient servants, Pye, Brothers. + + The Rev. Dr. Livingstone. + + +A representation of the plant is given in the annexed woodcut,* as a +help to its identification. I was unable to procure either the flowers +or fruit; but, as it is not recognized at sight by that accomplished +botanist and eminent traveler, Dr. J. D. Hooker, it may safely be +concluded that it is quite unknown to botanists. It is stated by the +Portuguese to grow in large quantities in the Maravi country north of +the Zambesi, but it is not cultivated, and the only known use it has +been put to is in making threads on which the natives string their +beads. Elsewhere the split tendons of animals are employed for this +purpose. This seems to be of equal strength, for a firm thread of it +feels like catgut in the hand, and would rather cut the fingers than +break. + + * Unfortunately, this woodcut can not be represented in this + ASCII text, but buaze, or bwazi, is 'Securidaca + longipedunculata'.--A. L., 1997. + +Having waited a month for the commencement of the healthy season at +Kilimane, I would have started at the beginning of April, but tarried a +few days in order that the moon might make her appearance, and enable me +to take lunar observations on my way down the river. A sudden change of +temperature happening on the 4th, simultaneously with the appearance of +the new moon, the commandant and myself, with nearly every person in the +house, were laid up with a severe attack of fever. I soon recovered by +the use of my wonted remedies, but Major Sicard and his little boy were +confined much longer. There was a general fall of 4 Deg. of temperature +from the middle of March, 84 Deg. at 9 A.M., and 87 Deg. at 9 P.M.; +the greatest heat being 90 Deg. at midday, and the lowest 81 Deg. +at sunrise. It afforded me pleasure to attend the invalids in their +sickness, though I was unable to show a tithe of the gratitude I felt +for the commandant's increasing kindness. My quinine and other remedies +were nearly all expended, and no fresh supply was to be found here, +there being no doctors at Tete, and only one apothecary with the +troops, whose stock of medicine was also small. The Portuguese, +however, informed me that they had the cinchona bark growing in their +country--that there was a little of it to be found at Tete--whole +forests of it at Senna and near the delta of Kilimane. It seems quite +a providential arrangement that the remedy for fever should be found in +the greatest abundance where it is most needed. On seeing the leaves, +I stated that it was not the 'Cinchona longifolia' from which it +is supposed the quinine of commerce is extracted, but the name and +properties of this bark made me imagine that it was a cinchonaceous +tree. I could not get the flower, but when I went to Senna I tried to +bring away a few small living trees with earth in a box. They, however, +all died when we came to Kilimane. Failing in this mode of testing +the point, I submitted a few leaves and seed-vessels to my friend, +Dr. Hooker, who kindly informs me that they belong "apparently to an +apocyneous plant, very nearly allied to the Malouetia Heudlotii (of +Decaisne), a native of Senegambia." Dr. H. adds, "Various plants of this +natural order are reputed powerful febrifuges, and some of them are +said to equal the cinchona in their effects." It is called in the native +tongue Kumbanzo. + +The flowers are reported to be white. The pods are in pairs, a foot or +fifteen inches in length, and contain a groove on their inner sides. +The thick soft bark of the root is the part used by the natives; the +Portuguese use that of the tree itself. I immediately began to use a +decoction of the bark of the root, and my men found it so efficacious +that they collected small quantities of it for themselves, and kept it +in little bags for future use. Some of them said that they knew it in +their own country, but I never happened to observe it. The decoction is +given after the first paroxysm of the complaint is over. The Portuguese +believe it to have the same effects as the quinine, and it may prove a +substitute for that invaluable medicine. + +There are numbers of other medicines in use among the natives, but I +have always been obliged to regret want of time to ascertain which were +useful and which of no value. We find a medicine in use by a tribe +in one part of the country, and the same plant employed by a tribe a +thousand miles distant. This surely must arise from some inherent virtue +in the plant. The Boers under Potgeiter visited Delgoa Bay for the first +time about ten years ago, in order to secure a port on the east coast +for their republic. They had come from a part of the interior where the +disease called croup occasionally prevails. There was no appearance of +the disease among them at the period of their visit, but the Portuguese +inhabitants of that bay found that they had left it among them, +and several adults were cut off by a form of the complaint called +'Laryngismus stridulus', the disease of which the great Washington died. +Similar cases have occurred in the South Sea Islands. Ships have left +diseases from which no one on board was suffering at the time of their +visit. Many of the inhabitants here were cut down, usually in three +days from their first attack, until a native doctor adopted the plan of +scratching the root of the tongue freely with a certain root, and giving +a piece of it to be chewed. The cure may have been effected by the +scarification only, but the Portuguese have the strongest faith in the +virtues of the root, and always keep some of it within reach. + +There are also other plants which the natives use in the treatment of +fever, and some of them produce 'diaphoresis' in a short space of +time. It is certain that we have got the knowledge of the most potent +febrifuge in our pharmacopoeia from the natives of another country. We +have no cure for cholera and some other diseases. It might be worth the +investigation of those who visit Africa to try and find other remedies +in a somewhat similar way to that in which we found the quinine.* + + * I add the native names of a few of their remedies in order + to assist the inquirer: Mupanda panda: this is used in fever + for producing perspiration; the leaves are named Chirussa; the + roots dye red, and are very astringent. Goho or Go-o: this is + the ordeal medicine; it is both purgative and emetic. Mutuva + or Mutumbue: this plant contains so much oil that it serves + as lights in Londa; it is an emollient drink for the cure of + coughs, and the pounded leaves answer as soap to wash the + head. Nyamucu ucu has a curious softening effect on old dry + grain. Mussakasi is believed to remove the effects of the Go- + o. Mudama is a stringent vermifuge. Mapubuza dyes a red + color. Musikizi yields an oil. Shinkondo: a virulent poison; + the Maravi use it in their ordeal, and it is very fatal. + Kanunka utare is said to expel serpents and rats by its + pungent smell, which is not at all disagreeable to man; this + is probably a kind of 'Zanthoxylon', perhaps the Z. + melancantha of Western Africa, as it is used to expel rats and + serpents there. Mussonzoa dyes cloth black. Mussio: the + beans of this also dye black. Kangome, with flowers and fruit + like Mocha coffee; the leaves are much like those of the sloe, + and the seeds are used as coffee or eaten as beans. Kanembe- + embe: the pounded leaves used as an extemporaneous glue for + mending broken vessels. Katunguru is used for killing fish. + Mutavea Nyerere: an active caustic. Mudiacoro: also an + external caustic, and used internally. Kapande: another + ordeal plant, but used to produce 'diaphoresis'. Karumgasura: + also diaphoretic. Munyazi yields an oil, and is one of the + ingredients for curing the wounds of poisoned arrows. Uombue: + a large root employed in killing fish. Kakumate: used in + intermittents. Musheteko: applied to ulcers, and the infusion + also internally in amenorrhoea. Inyakanyanya: this is seen in + small, dark-colored, crooked roots of pleasant aromatic smell + and slightly bitter taste, and is highly extolled in the + treatment of fever; it is found in Manica. Eskinencia: used + in croup and sore-throat. Itaca or Itaka: for diaphoresis in + fever; this root is brought as an article of barter by the + Arabs to Kilimane; the natives purchase it eagerly. + Mukundukundu: a decoction used as a febrifuge in the same way + as quinine; it grows plentifully at Shupanga, and the wood is + used as masts for launches. I may here add the recipe of + Brother Pedro of Zumbo for the cure of poisoned wounds, in + order to show the similarity of practice among the natives of + the Zambesi, from whom, in all probability, he acquired his + knowledge, and the Bushmen of the Kalahari. It consists of + equal parts of the roots of the Calumba, Musheteko, Abutua, + Batatinya, Paregekanto, Itaka, or Kapande, put into a bottle + and covered with common castor-oil. As I have before + observed, I believe the oily ingredient is the effectual one, + and ought to be tried by any one who has the misfortune to get + wounded by a Bushman's or Banyai arrow. + +The only other metal, besides gold, we have in abundance in this region, +is iron, and that is of excellent quality. In some places it is obtained +from what is called the specular iron ore, and also from black oxide. +The latter has been well roasted in the operations of nature, and +contains a large proportion of the metal. It occurs generally in tears +or rounded lumps, and is but slightly magnetic. When found in the beds +of rivers, the natives know of its existence by the quantity of oxide +on the surface, and they find no difficulty in digging it with pointed +sticks. They consider English iron as "rotten"; and I have seen, when a +javelin of their own iron lighted on the cranium of a hippopotamus, it +curled up like the proboscis of a butterfly, and the owner would prepare +it for future use by straightening it COLD with two stones. I brought +home some of the hoes which Sekeletu gave me to purchase a canoe, also +some others obtained in Kilimane, and they have been found of such good +quality that a friend of mine in Birmingham has made an Enfield rifle of +them.* + + * The following remarks are by a practical blacksmith, one of + the most experienced men in the gun-trade. In this trade + various qualities of iron are used, and close attention is + required to secure for each purpose the quality of iron + peculiarly adapted to it: + + The iron in the two spades strongly resembles Swedish or + Russian; it is highly carbonized. + + The same qualities are found in both spades. + + When chilled in water it has all the properties of steel: see + the piece marked I, chilled at one end, and left soft at the + other. + + When worked hot, it is very malleable: but cold, it breaks + quite short and brittle. + + The great irregularity found in the working of the iron + affords evidence that it has been prepared by inexperienced + hands. + + This is shown in the bending of the small spade; the thick + portion retains its crystallized nature, while the thin part + has been changed by the hammering it has undergone. + + The large spade shows a very brittle fracture. + + The iron is too brittle for gun-work; it would be liable to + break. + + This iron, if REPEATEDLY heated and hammered, would become + decarbonized, and would then possess the qualities found in + the spear-head, which, after being curled up by being struck + against a hard substance, was restored, by hammering, to its + original form without injury. + + The piece of iron marked II is a piece of gun-iron of fibrous + quality, such as will bend without breaking. + + The piece marked III is of crystalline quality; it has been + submitted to a process which has changed it to IIII; III and + IIII are cut from the same bar. The spade-iron has been + submitted to the same process, but no corresponding effect can + be produced. + +The iron ore exists in great abundance, but I did not find any limestone +in its immediate vicinity. So far as I could learn, there is neither +copper nor silver. Malachite is worked by the people of Cazembe, but, as +I did not see it, nor any other metal, I can say nothing about it. A +few precious stones are met with, and some parts are quite covered with +agates. The mineralogy of the district, however, has not been explored +by any one competent to the task. + +When my friend the commandant was fairly recovered, and I myself felt +strong again, I prepared to descend the Zambesi. A number of my men +were out elephant-hunting, and others had established a brisk trade in +firewood, as their countrymen did at Loanda. I chose sixteen of those +who could manage canoes to convey me down the river. Many more would +have come, but we were informed that there had been a failure of the +crops at Kilimane from the rains not coming at the proper time, and +thousands had died of hunger. I did not hear of a single effort having +been made to relieve the famishing by sending them food down the river. +Those who perished were mostly slaves, and others seemed to think that +their masters ought to pay for their relief. The sufferers were chiefly +among those natives who inhabit the delta, and who are subject to the +Portuguese. They are in a state of slavery, but are kept on farms and +mildly treated. Many yield a certain rental of grain only to their +owners, and are otherwise free. Eight thousand are said to have +perished. Major Sicard lent me a boat which had been built on the river, +and sent also Lieutenant Miranda to conduct me to the coast. + +A Portuguese lady who had come with her brother from Lisbon, having been +suffering for some days from a severe attack of fever, died about three +o'clock in the morning of the 20th of April. The heat of the body having +continued unabated till six o'clock, I was called in, and found her +bosom quite as warm as I ever did in a living case of fever. This +continued for three hours more. As I had never seen a case in which +fever-heat continued so long after death, I delayed the funeral until +unmistakable symptoms of dissolution occurred. She was a widow, only +twenty-two years of age, and had been ten years in Africa. I attended +the funeral in the evening, and was struck by the custom of the country. +A number of slaves preceded us, and fired off many rounds of gunpowder +in front of the body. When a person of much popularity is buried, all +the surrounding chiefs send deputations to fire over the grave. On one +occasion at Tete, more than thirty barrels of gunpowder were expended. +Early in the morning of the 21st the slaves of the deceased lady's +brother went round the village making a lamentation, and drums were +beaten all day, as they are at such times among the heathen. + +The commandant provided for the journey most abundantly, and gave orders +to Lieutenant Miranda that I should not be allowed to pay for any thing +all the way to the coast, and sent messages to his friends Senhors +Ferrao, Isidore, Asevedo, and Nunes, to treat me as they would himself. +From every one of these gentlemen I am happy to acknowledge that I +received most disinterested kindness, and I ought to speak well forever +of Portuguese hospitality. I have noted each little act of civility +received, because somehow or other we have come to hold the Portuguese +character in rather a low estimation. This may have arisen partly from +the pertinacity with which some of them have pursued the slave-trade, +and partly from the contrast which they now offer to their illustrious +ancestors--the foremost navigators of the world. If my specification of +their kindnesses will tend to engender a more respectful feeling to the +nation, I shall consider myself well rewarded. We had three large canoes +in the company which had lately come up with goods from Senna. They +are made very large and strong, much larger than any we ever saw in the +interior, and might strike with great force against a rock and not be +broken. The men sit at the stern when paddling, and there is usually a +little shed made over a part of the canoe to shade the passengers from +the sun. The boat in which I went was furnished with such a covering, so +I sat quite comfortably. + + + + +Chapter 32. + +Leave Tete and proceed down the River--Pass the Stockade of Bonga-- +Gorge of Lupata--"Spine of the World"--Width of River--Islands--War +Drum at Shiramba--Canoe Navigation--Reach Senna--Its ruinous +State--Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants--Cowardice of native +Militia--State of the Revenue--No direct Trade with Portugal--Attempts +to revive the Trade of Eastern Africa--Country round Senna--Gorongozo, +a Jesuit Station--Manica, the best Gold Region in Eastern +Africa--Boat-building at Senna--Our Departure--Capture of a Rebel +Stockade--Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the Confluence of the +Shire--Landeen Opinion of the Whites--Mazaro, the point reached by +Captain Parker--His Opinion respecting the Navigation of the River +from this to the Ocean--Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the same +subject--Fever, its Effects--Kindly received into the House of Colonel +Nunes at Kilimane--Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh--Joy +imbittered--Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc.--On +developing Resources of the Interior--Desirableness of Missionary +Societies selecting healthy Stations--Arrangements on leaving my Men-- +Retrospect--Probable Influence of the Discoveries on Slavery--Supply of +Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free Labor--Commercial Stations--Development +of the Resources of Africa a Work of Time--Site of Kilimane-- +Unhealthiness--Death of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever--The Captain +saved by Quinine--Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic"--Anxiety of one of my +Men to go to England--Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship--Sekwebu's +Alarm--Sail for Mauritius--Sekwebu on board; he becomes insane; drowns +himself--Kindness of Major-General C. M. Hay--Escape Shipwreck--Reach +Home. + + + +We left Tete at noon on the 22d, and in the afternoon arrived at the +garden of Senhor A. Manoel de Gomez, son-in-law and nephew of Bonga. The +Commandant of Tete had sent a letter to the rebel Bonga, stating that +he ought to treat me kindly, and he had deputed his son-in-law to be my +host. Bonga is not at all equal to his father Nyaude, who was a man of +great ability. He is also in bad odor with the Portuguese, because +he receives all runaway slaves and criminals. He does not trust the +Portuguese, and is reported to be excessively superstitious. I found his +son-in-law, Manoel, extremely friendly, and able to converse in a very +intelligent manner. He was in his garden when we arrived, but soon +dressed himself respectably, and gave us a good tea and dinner. After a +breakfast of tea, roasted eggs, and biscuits next morning, he presented +six fowls and three goats as provisions for the journey. When we parted +from him we passed the stockade of Bonga at the confluence of the +Luenya, but did not go near it, as he is said to be very suspicious. The +Portuguese advised me not to take any observation, as the instruments +might awaken fears in Bonga's mind, but Manoel said I might do so if I +wished; his garden, however, being above the confluence, could not avail +as a geographical point. There are some good houses in the stockade. The +trees of which it is composed seemed to me to be living, and could not +be burned. It was strange to see a stockade menacing the whole commerce +of the river in a situation where the guns of a vessel would have +full play on it, but it is a formidable affair for those who have only +muskets. On one occasion, when Nyaude was attacked by Kisaka, they +fought for weeks; and though Nyaude was reduced to cutting up his copper +anklets for balls, his enemies were not able to enter the stockade. + +On the 24th we sailed only about three hours, as we had done the day +before; but having come to a small island at the western entrance of the +gorge of Lupata, where Dr. Lacerda is said to have taken an astronomical +observation, and called it the island of Mozambique, because it was +believed to be in the same latitude, or 15d 1', I wished to verify +his position, and remained over night: my informants must have been +mistaken, for I found the island of Mozambique here to be lat. 16d 34' +46" S. + +Respecting this range, to which the gorge has given a name, some +Portuguese writers have stated it to be so high that snow lies on it +during the whole year, and that it is composed of marble. It is not +so high in appearance as the Campsie Hills when seen from the Vale of +Clyde. The western side is the most abrupt, and gives the idea of the +greatest height, as it rises up perpendicularly from the water six or +seven hundred feet. As seen from this island, it is certainly no higher +than Arthur's Seat appears from Prince's Street, Edinburgh. The rock +is compact silicious schist of a slightly reddish color, and in thin +strata; the island on which we slept looks as if torn off from the +opposite side of the gorge, for the strata are twisted and torn in every +direction. The eastern side of the range is much more sloping than the +western, covered with trees, and does not give the idea of altitude +so much as the western. It extends a considerable way into the Maganja +country in the north, and then bends round toward the river again, and +ends in the lofty mountain Morumbala, opposite Senna. On the other +or southern side it is straighter, but is said to end in Gorongozo, a +mountain west of the same point. The person who called this Lupata +"the spine of the world" evidently did not mean to say that it was +a translation of the word, for it means a defile or gorge having +perpendicular walls. This range does not deserve the name of either +Cordillera or Spine, unless we are willing to believe that the world has +a very small and very crooked "back-bone". + +We passed through the gorge in two hours, and found it rather tortuous, +and between 200 and 300 yards wide. The river is said to be here always +excessively deep; it seemed to me that a steamer could pass through +it at full speed. At the eastern entrance of Lupata stand two conical +hills; they are composed of porphyry, having large square crystals +therein. These hills are called Moenda en Goma, which means a footprint +of a wild beast. Another conical hill on the opposite bank is named +Kasisi (priest), from having a bald top. We sailed on quickly with the +current of the river, and found that it spread out to more than two +miles in breadth; it is, however, full of islands, which are generally +covered with reeds, and which, previous to the war, were inhabited, and +yielded vast quantities of grain. We usually landed to cook breakfast, +and then went on quickly. The breadth of water between the islands was +now quite sufficient for a sailing vessel to tack, and work her sails +in; the prevailing winds would blow her up the stream; but I regretted +that I had not come when the river was at its lowest rather than at +its highest. The testimony, however, of Captain Parker and Lieutenant +Hoskins, hereafter to be noticed, may be considered conclusive as to the +capabilities of this river for commercial purposes. The Portuguese state +that there is high water during five months of the year, and when it is +low there is always a channel of deep water. But this is very winding; +and as the river wears away some of the islands and forms others, the +course of the channel is often altered. I suppose that an accurate +chart of it made in one year would not be very reliable the next; but I +believe, from all that I can learn, that the river could be navigated in +a small flat-bottomed steamer during the whole year as far as Tete. At +this time a steamer of large size could have floated easily. The river +was measured at the latter place by the Portuguese, and found by them to +be 1050 yards broad. The body of water flowing past when I was there +was very great, and the breadth it occupied when among the islands had a +most imposing effect. I could not get a glimpse of either shore. All the +right bank beyond Lupata is low and flat: on the north, the ranges +of hills and dark lines below them are seen, but from the boat it is +impossible to see the shore. I only guess the breadth of the river to +be two miles; it is probably more. Next day we landed at Shiramba for +breakfast, having sailed 8-1/2 hours from Lupata. This was once the +residence of a Portuguese brigadier, who spent large sums of money in +embellishing his house and gardens: these we found in entire ruin, as +his half-caste son had destroyed all, and then rebelled against the +Portuguese, but with less success than either Nyaude or Kisaka, for he +had been seized and sent a prisoner to Mozambique a short time before +our visit. All the southern shore has been ravaged by the Caffres, +who are here named Landeens, and most of the inhabitants who remain +acknowledge the authority of Bonga, and not of the Portuguese. When at +breakfast, the people of Shiramba commenced beating the drum of war. +Lieutenant Miranda, who was well acquainted with the customs of the +country, immediately started to his feet, and got all the soldiers of +our party under arms; he then demanded of the natives why the drum was +beaten while we were there. They gave an evasive reply; and, as they +employ this means of collecting their neighbors when they intend to rob +canoes, our watchfulness may have prevented their proceeding farther. + +We spent the night of the 26th on the island called Nkuesi, opposite a +remarkable saddle-shaped mountain, and found that we were just on the +17th parallel of latitude. The sail down the river was very fine; the +temperature becoming low, it was pleasant to the feelings; but the +shores being flat and far from us, the scenery was uninteresting. We +breakfasted on the 27th at Pita, and found some half-caste Portuguese +had established themselves there, after fleeing from the opposite +bank to escape Kisaka's people, who were now ravaging all the Maganja +country. On the afternoon of the 27th we arrived at Senna. (Commandant +Isidore's house, 300 yards S.W. of the mud fort on the banks of the +river: lat. 17d 27' 1" S., long. 35d 10' E.) We found Senna to be +twenty-three and a half hours' sail from Tete. We had the current +entirely in our favor, but met various parties in large canoes toiling +laboriously against it. They use long ropes, and pull the boats from the +shore. They usually take about twenty days to ascend the distance we had +descended in about four. The wages paid to boatmen are considered high. +Part of the men who had accompanied me gladly accepted employment from +Lieutenant Miranda to take a load of goods in a canoe from Senna to +Tete. + +I thought the state of Tete quite lamentable, but that of Senna was ten +times worse. At Tete there is some life; here every thing is in a state +of stagnation and ruin. The fort, built of sun-dried bricks, has the +grass growing over the walls, which have been patched in some places by +paling. The Landeens visit the village periodically, and levy fines upon +the inhabitants, as they consider the Portuguese a conquered tribe, and +very rarely does a native come to trade. Senhor Isidore, the commandant, +a man of considerable energy, had proposed to surround the whole village +with palisades as a protection against the Landeens, and the villagers +were to begin this work the day after I left. It was sad to look at the +ruin manifest in every building, but the half-castes appear to be in +league with the rebels and Landeens; for when any attempt is made by +the Portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend themselves, information +is conveyed at once to the Landeen camp, and, though the commandant +prohibits the payment of tribute to the Landeens, on their approach +the half-castes eagerly ransom themselves. When I was there, a party of +Kisaka's people were ravaging the fine country on the opposite shore. +They came down with the prisoners they had captured, and forthwith +the half-castes of Senna went over to buy slaves. Encouraged by this, +Kisaka's people came over into Senna fully armed and beating their +drums, and were received into the house of a native Portuguese. They +had the village at their mercy, yet could have been driven off by half +a dozen policemen. The commandant could only look on with bitter sorrow. +He had soldiers, it is true, but it is notorious that the native +militia of both Senna and Kilimane never think of standing to fight, +but invariably run away, and leave their officers to be killed. They +are brave only among the peaceable inhabitants. One of them, sent from +Kilimane with a packet of letters or expresses, arrived while I was at +Senna. He had been charged to deliver them with all speed, but Senhor +Isidore had in the mean time gone to Kilimane, remained there a +fortnight, and reached Senna again before the courier came. He could not +punish him. We gave him a passage in our boat, but he left us in the way +to visit his wife, and, "on urgent private business," probably gave up +the service altogether, as he did not come to Kilimane all the time I +was there. It is impossible to describe the miserable state of decay +into which the Portuguese possessions here have sunk. The revenues are +not equal to the expenses, and every officer I met told the same tale, +that he had not received one farthing of pay for the last four years. +They are all forced to engage in trade for the support of their +families. Senhor Miranda had been actually engaged against the enemy +during these four years, and had been highly lauded in the commandant's +dispatches to the home government, but when he applied to the Governor +of Kilimane for part of his four years' pay, he offered him twenty +dollars only. Miranda resigned his commission in consequence. The common +soldiers sent out from Portugal received some pay in calico. They all +marry native women, and, the soil being very fertile, the wives find but +little difficulty in supporting their husbands. There is no direct trade +with Portugal. A considerable number of Banians, or natives of India, +come annually in small vessels with cargoes of English and Indian goods +from Bombay. It is not to be wondered at, then, that there have been +attempts made of late years by speculative Portuguese in Lisbon to +revive the trade of Eastern Africa by means of mercantile companies. One +was formally proposed, which was modeled on the plan of our East India +Company; and it was actually imagined that all the forts, harbors, +lands, etc., might be delivered over to a company, which would bind +itself to develop the resources of the country, build schools, make +roads, improve harbors, etc., and, after all, leave the Portuguese the +option of resuming possession. + +Another effort has been made to attract commercial enterprise to this +region by offering any mining company permission to search for the ores +and work them. Such a company, however, would gain but little in the way +of protection or aid from the government of Mozambique, as that can +but barely maintain a hold on its own small possessions; the condition +affixed of importing at the company's own cost a certain number of +Portuguese from the island of Madeira or the Azores, in order to +increase the Portuguese population in Africa, is impolitic. Taxes would +also be levied on the minerals exported. It is noticeable that all the +companies which have been proposed in Portugal have this put prominently +in the preamble, "and for the abolition of the inhuman slave-trade." +This shows either that the statesmen in Portugal are enlightened and +philanthropic, or it may be meant as a trap for English capitalists; I +incline to believe the former. If the Portuguese really wish to develop +the resources of the rich country beyond their possessions, they +ought to invite the co-operation of other nations on equal terms with +themselves. Let the pathway into the interior be free to all; and, +instead of wretched forts, with scarcely an acre of land around them +which can be called their own, let real colonies be made. If, instead of +military establishments, we had civil ones, and saw emigrants going out +with their wives, plows, and seeds, rather than military convicts with +bugles and kettle-drums, we might hope for a return of prosperity to +Eastern Africa. + +The village of Senna stands on the right bank of the Zambesi. There are +many reedy islands in front of it, and there is much bush in the country +adjacent. The soil is fertile, but the village, being in a state of +ruin, and having several pools of stagnant water, is very unhealthy. The +bottom rock is the akose of Brongniart, or granitic grit, and several +conical hills of trap have burst through it. One standing about half a +mile west of the village is called Baramuana, which has another behind +it; hence the name, which means "carry a child on the back". It is 300 +or 400 feet high, and on the top lie two dismounted cannon, which were +used to frighten away the Landeens, who, in one attack upon Senna, +killed 150 of the inhabitants. The prospect from Baramuana is very fine; +below, on the eastward, lies the Zambesi, with the village of Senna; and +some twenty or thirty miles beyond stands the lofty mountain Morumbala, +probably 3000 or 4000 feet high. It is of an oblong shape, and from its +physiognomy, which can be distinctly seen when the sun is in the west, +is evidently igneous. On the northern end there is a hot sulphurous +fountain, which my Portuguese friends refused to allow me to visit, +because the mountain is well peopled, and the mountaineers are +at present not friendly with the Portuguese. They have plenty of +garden-ground and running water on its summit. My friends at Senna +declined the responsibility of taking me into danger. To the north of +Morumbala we have a fine view of the mountains of the Maganja; they here +come close to the river, and terminate in Morumbala. Many of them are +conical, and the Shire is reported to flow among them, and to run on +the Senna side of Morumbala before joining the Zambesi. On seeing the +confluence afterward, close to a low range of hills beyond Morumbala, I +felt inclined to doubt the report, as the Shire must then flow parallel +with the Zambesi, from which Morumbala seems distant only twenty or +thirty miles. All around to the southeast the country is flat, and +covered with forest, but near Senna a number of little abrupt conical +hills diversify the scenery. To the west and north the country is also +flat forest, which gives it a sombre appearance; but just in the haze +of the horizon southwest by south, there rises a mountain range equal in +height to Morumbala, and called Nyamonga. In a clear day another range +beyond this may be seen, which is Gorongozo, once a station of the +Jesuits. Gorongozo is famed for its clear cold waters and healthiness, +and there are some inscriptions engraved on large square slabs on the +top of the mountain, which have probably been the work of the fathers. +As this lies in the direction of a district between Manica and Sofala, +which has been conjectured to be the Ophir of King Solomon, the idea +that first sprang up in my mind was, that these monuments might be more +ancient than the Portuguese; but, on questioning some persons who had +seen them, I found that they were in Roman characters, and did not +deserve a journey of six days to see them. + +Manica lies three days northwest of Gorongozo, and is the best gold +country known in Eastern Africa. The only evidence the Portuguese have +of its being the ancient Ophir is, that at Sofala, its nearest port, +pieces of wrought gold have been dug up near the fort and in the +gardens. They also report the existence of hewn stones in the +neighborhood, but these can not have been abundant, for all the stones +of the fort of Sofala are said to have been brought from Portugal. +Natives whom I met in the country of Sekeletu, from Manica, or Manoa, +as they call it, state that there are several caves in the country, +and walls of hewn stones, which they believe to have been made by their +ancestors; and there is, according to the Portuguese, a small tribe +of Arabs there, who have become completely like the other natives. Two +rivers, the Motirikwe and Sabia, or Sabe, run through their country into +the sea. The Portuguese were driven out of the country by the Landeens, +but now talk of reoccupying Manica. + +The most pleasant sight I witnessed at Senna was the negroes of Senhor +Isidore building boats after the European model, without any one to +superintend their operations. They had been instructed by a European +master, but now go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trees, lay +down the keel, fit in the ribs, and make very neat boats and launches, +valued at from 20 Pounds to 100 Pounds. Senhor Isidore had some of them +instructed also in carpentry at Rio Janeiro, and they constructed for +him the handsomest house in Kilimane, the woodwork being all of country +trees, some of which are capable of a fine polish, and very durable. A +medical opinion having been asked by the commandant respecting a better +site for the village, which, lying on the low bank of the Zambesi, is +very unhealthy, I recommended imitation of the Jesuits, who had chosen +the high, healthy mountain of Gorongozo, and to select a new site on +Morumbala, which is perfectly healthy, well watered, and where the Shire +is deep enough for the purpose of navigation at its base. As the next +resource, I proposed removal to the harbor of Mitilone, which is at +one of the mouths of the Zambesi, a much better port than Kilimane, and +where, if they must have the fever, they would be in the way of doing +more good to themselves and the country than they can do in their +present situation. Had the Portuguese possessed this territory as a real +colony, this important point would not have been left unoccupied; as it +is, there is not even a native village placed at the entrance of this +splendid river to show the way in. + +On the 9th of May sixteen of my men were employed to carry government +goods in canoes up to Tete. They were much pleased at getting this work. +On the 11th the whole of the inhabitants of Senna, with the commandant, +accompanied us to the boats. A venerable old man, son of a judge, said +they were in much sorrow on account of the miserable state of decay into +which they had sunk, and of the insolent conduct of the people of Kisaka +now in the village. We were abundantly supplied with provisions by +the commandant and Senhor Ferrao, and sailed pleasantly down the broad +river. About thirty miles below Senna we passed the mouth of the River +Zangwe on our right, which farther up goes by the name of Pungwe; and +about five miles farther on our left, close to the end of a low range +into which Morumbala merges, we crossed the mouth of the Shire, which +seemed to be about 200 yards broad. A little inland from the confluence +there is another rebel stockade, which was attacked by Ensign Rebeiro +with three European soldiers, and captured; they disarmed the rebels and +threw the guns into the water. This ensign and Miranda volunteered +to disperse the people of Kisaka who were riding roughshod over +the inhabitants of Senna; but the offer was declined, the few real +Portuguese fearing the disloyal half-castes among whom they dwelt. +Slavery and immorality have here done their work; nowhere else does +the European name stand at so low an ebb; but what can be expected? +Few Portuguese women are ever taken to the colonies, and here I did +not observe that honorable regard for the offspring which I noticed in +Angola. The son of a late governor of Tete was pointed out to me in the +condition and habit of a slave. There is neither priest nor school at +Senna, though there are ruins of churches and convents. + +On passing the Shire we observed great quantities of the plant +Alfacinya, already mentioned, floating down into the Zambesi. It is +probably the 'Pistia stratiotes', a gigantic "duck-weed". It was mixed +with quantities of another aquatic plant, which the Barotse named +"Njefu", containing in the petiole of the leaf a pleasant-tasted nut. +This was so esteemed by Sebituane that he made it part of his tribute +from the subjected tribes. Dr. Hooker kindly informs me that the njefu +"is probably a species of 'Trapa', the nuts of which are eaten in the +south of Europe and in India. Government derives a large revenue from +them in Kashmir, amounting to 12,000 Pounds per annum for 128,000 +ass-loads! The ancient Thracians are said to have eaten them largely. In +the south of France they are called water-chestnuts." The existence of +these plants in such abundance in the Shire may show that it flows from +large collections of still water. We found them growing in all the still +branches and lagoons of the Leeambye in the far north, and there also we +met a beautiful little floating plant, the 'Azolla Nilotica', which is +found in the upper Nile. They are seldom seen in flowing streams. + +A few miles beyond the Shire we left the hills entirely, and sailed +between extensive flats. The banks seen in the distance are covered +with trees. We slept on a large inhabited island, and then came to the +entrance of the River Mutu (latitude 18d 3' 37" S., longitude 35d 46' +E.): the point of departure is called Mazaro, or "mouth of the Mutu". +The people who live on the north are called Baroro, and their country +Bororo. The whole of the right bank is in subjection to the Landeens, +who, it was imagined, would levy a tribute upon us, for this they are +accustomed to do to passengers. I regret that we did not meet them, for, +though they are named Caffres, I am not sure whether they are of +the Zulu family or of the Mashona. I should have liked to form their +acquaintance, and to learn what they really think of white men. I +understood from Sekwebu, and from one of Changamera's people who lives +at Linyanti, and was present at the attack on Senna, that they consider +the whites as a conquered tribe. + +The Zambesi at Mazaro is a magnificent river, more than half a mile +wide, and without islands. The opposite bank is covered with forests of +fine timber; but the delta which begins here is only an immense flat, +covered with high, coarse grass and reeds, with here and there a few +mango and cocoanut trees. This was the point which was reached by +the late lamented Captain Parker, who fell at the Sulina mouth of +the Danube. I had a strong desire to follow the Zambesi farther, and +ascertain where this enormous body of water found its way into the sea; +but on hearing from the Portuguese that he had ascended to this point, +and had been highly pleased with the capabilities of the river, I felt +sure that his valuable opinion must be in possession of the Admiralty. +On my arrival in England I applied to Captain Washington, Hydrographer +to the Admiralty, and he promptly furnished the document for publication +by the Royal Geographical Society. + +The river between Mazaro and the sea must therefore be judged of from +the testimony of one more competent to decide on its merits than a mere +landsman like myself. + + +'On the Quilimane and Zambesi Rivers'. From the Journal of the late +Capt. HYDE PARKER, R.N., H. M. Brig "Pantaloon". + + +"The Luabo is the main outlet of the Great Zambesi. In the rainy +season--January and February principally--the whole country is +overflowed, and the water escapes by the different rivers as far up +as Quilimane; but in the dry season neither Quilimane nor Olinda +communicates with it. The position of the river is rather incorrect in +the Admiralty chart, being six miles too much to the southward, and +also considerably to the westward. Indeed, the coast from here up to +Tongamiara seems too far to the westward. The entrance to the Luabo +River is about two miles broad, and is easily distinguishable, when +abreast of it, by a bluff (if I may so term it) of high, straight trees, +very close together, on the western side of the entrance. The bar may +be said to be formed by two series of sand-banks; that running from the +eastern point runs diagonally across (opposite?) the entrance and nearly +across it. Its western extremity is about two miles outside the west +point. + +"The bank running out from the west point projects to the southward +three miles and a half, passing not one quarter of a mile from the +eastern or cross bank. This narrow passage is the BAR PASSAGE. It +breaks completely across at low water, except under very extraordinary +circumstances. At this time--low water--a great portion of the banks are +uncovered; in some places they are seven or eight feet above water. + +"On these banks there is a break at all times, but in fine weather, at +high water, a boat may cross near the east point. There is very little +water, and, in places, a nasty race and bubble, so that caution is +requisite. The best directions for going in over the regular bar +passage, according to my experience, are as follows: Steer down well to +the eastward of the bar passage, so as to avoid the outer part of the +western shoals, on which there is usually a bad sea. When you get near +the CROSS-BAR, keep along it till the bluff of trees on the west side of +the entrance bears N.E.; you may then steer straight for it. This will +clear the end of the CROSS-BAR, and, directly you are within that, +the water is smooth. The worst sea is generally just without the bar +passage. + +"Within the points the river widens at first and then contracts again. +About three miles from the Tree Bluff is an island; the passage up the +river is the right-hand side of it, and deep. The plan will best explain +it. The rise and fall of the tide at the entrance of the river being at +springs twenty feet, any vessel can get in at that time, but, with all +these conveniences for traffic, there is none here at present. The water +in the river is fresh down to the bar with the ebb tide, and in the +rainy season it is fresh at the surface quite outside. In the rainy +season, at the full and change of the moon, the Zambesi frequently +overflows its banks, making the country for an immense distance one +great lake, with only a few small eminences above the water. On the +banks of the river the huts are built on piles, and at these times the +communication is only in canoes; but the waters do not remain up more +than three or four days at a time. The first village is about eight +miles up the river, on the western bank, and is opposite to another +branch of the river called 'Muselo', which discharges itself into the +sea about five miles to the eastward. + +"The village is extensive, and about it there is a very large quantity +of land in cultivation; calavances, or beans, of different sorts, rice, +and pumpkins, are the principal things. I saw also about here some wild +cotton, apparently of very good quality, but none is cultivated. The +land is so fertile as to produce almost any (thing?) without much +trouble. + +"At this village is a very large house, mud-built, with a court-yard. +I believe it to have been used as a barracoon for slaves, several large +cargoes having been exported from this river. I proceeded up the river +as far as its junction with the Quilimane River, called 'Boca do +Rio', by my computation between 70 and 80 miles from the entrance. The +influence of the tides is felt about 25 or 30 miles up the river. Above +that, the stream, in the dry season, runs from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 miles an +hour, but in the rains much stronger. The banks of the river, for +the first 30 miles, are generally thickly clothed with trees, with +occasional open glades. There are many huts and villages on both sides, +and a great deal of cultivation. At one village, about 17 miles up on +the eastern bank, and distinguished by being surrounded by an immense +number of bananas and plantain-trees, a great quantity of excellent peas +are cultivated; also cabbages, tomatoes, onions, etc. Above this there +are not many inhabitants on the left or west bank, although it is much +the finest country, being higher, and abounding in cocoanut palms, the +eastern bank being sandy and barren. The reason is, that some years back +the Landeens, or Caffres, ravaged all this country, killing the men and +taking the women as slaves, but they have never crossed the river; hence +the natives are afraid to settle on the west bank, and the Portuguese +owners of the different 'prasos' have virtually lost them. The banks of +the river continue mostly sandy, with few trees, except some cocoanut +palms, until the southern end of the large plantation of Nyangue, +formed by the river about 20 miles from Maruru. Here the country is more +populous and better cultivated, the natives a finer race, and the huts +larger and better constructed. Maruru belongs to Senor Asevedo, of +Quilimane, well known to all English officers on the east coast for his +hospitality. + +"The climate here is much cooler than nearer the sea, and Asevedo has +successfully cultivated most European as well as tropical vegetables. +The sugar-cane thrives, as also coffee and cotton, and indigo is a weed. +Cattle here are beautiful, and some of them might show with credit in +England. The natives are intelligent, and under a good government this +fine country might become very valuable. Three miles from Maruru is +Mesan, a very pretty village among palm and mango trees. There is here a +good house belonging to a Senor Ferrao; close by is the canal (Mutu) +of communication between the Quilimane and Zambesi rivers, which in the +rainy season is navigable (?). I visited it in the month of October, +which is about the dryest time of the year; it was then a dry canal, +about 30 or 40 yards wide, overgrown with trees and grass, and, at the +bottom, at least 16 or 17 feet above the level of the Zambesi, which was +running beneath. In the rains, by the marks I saw, the entrance rise +of the river must be very nearly 30 feet, and the volume of water +discharged by it (the Zambesi) enormous. + +"Above Maruru the country begins to become more hilly, and the high +mountains of Boruru are in sight; the first view of these is obtained +below Nyangue, and they must be of considerable height, as from this +they are distant above 40 miles. They are reported to contain great +mineral wealth; gold and copper being found in the range, as also COAL +(?). The natives (Landeens) are a bold, independent race, who do not +acknowledge the Portuguese authority, and even make them pay for leave +to pass unmolested. Throughout the whole course of the river hippopotami +were very abundant, and at one village a chase by the natives was +witnessed. They harpoon the animal with a barbed lance, to which is +attached, by a cord 3 or 4 fathoms long, an inflated bladder. The +natives follow in their canoes, and look out to fix more harpoons as +the animal rises to blow, and, when exhausted, dispatch him with their +lances. It is, in fact, nearly similar to a whale-hunt. Elephants and +lions are also abundant on the western side; the latter destroy many of +the blacks annually, and are much feared by them. Alligators are said to +be numerous, but I did not see any. + +"The voyage up to Maruru occupied seven days, as I did not work the men +at the oar, but it might be done in four; we returned to the bar in two +and a half days. + +"There is another mouth of the Zambesi seven miles to the westward of +Luabo, which was visited by the 'Castor's pinnace'; and I was assured by +Lieutenant Hoskins that the bar was better than the one I visited." + + +The conclusions of Captain Parker are strengthened by those of Lieut. A. +H. H. Hoskins, who was on the coast at the same time, and also visited +this spot. Having applied to my friend for his deliberate opinion on the +subject, he promptly furnished the following note in January last: + + +"The Zambesi appears to have five principal mouths, of which the Luabo +is the most southern and most navigable; Cumana, and two whose names +I do not know, not having myself visited it, lying between it and the +Quilimane, and the rise and fall at spring tides on the bar of the Luabo +is 22 feet; and as, in the passage, there is NEVER less than four feet +(I having crossed it at dead low-water--springs), this would give an +average depth sufficient for any commercial purposes. The rise and fall +is six feet greater, the passages narrow and more defined, consequently +deeper and more easily found than that of the Quilimane River. The river +above the bar is very tortuous, but deep; and it is observable that the +influence of the tide is felt much higher in this branch than in the +others; for whereas in the Catrina and Cumana I have obtained drinkable +water a very short distance from the mouth, in the Luabo I have ascended +seventy miles without finding the saltness perceptibly diminished. This +would facilitate navigation, and I have no hesitation in saying that +little difficulty would be experienced in conveying a steam-vessel of +the size and capabilities of the gunboat I lately commanded as high as +the branching off of the Quilimane River (Mazaro), which, in the dry +season, is observed many yards above the Luabo (main stream); though +I have been told by the Portuguese that the freshes which come down in +December and March fill it temporarily. These freshes deepen the river +considerably at that time of the year, and freshen the water many miles +from the coast. The population of the delta, except in the immediate +neighborhood of the Portuguese, appeared to be very sparse. Antelopes +and hippopotami were plentiful; the former tame and easily shot. I +inquired frequently of both natives and Portuguese if slavers were +in the habit of entering there to ship their cargoes, but could not +ascertain that they have ever done so in any except the Quilimane. With +common precaution the rivers are not unhealthy; for, during the whole +time I was employed in them (off and on during eighteen months), in open +boats and at all times of the year, frequently absent from the ship for +a month or six weeks at a time, I had not, in my boat's crew of fourteen +men, more than two, and those mild, cases of fever. Too much importance +can not be ascribed to the use of quinine, to which I attribute our +comparative immunity, and with which our judicious commander, Commodore +Wyvill, kept us amply supplied. I hope these few remarks may be of some +little use in confirming your views of the utility of that magnificent +river. + +A. H. H. Hoskins." + + +It ought to be remembered that the testimony of these gentlemen is all +the more valuable, because they visited the river when the water was at +its lowest, and the surface of the Zambesi was not, as it was now, on a +level with and flowing into the Mutu, but sixteen feet beneath its bed. +The Mutu, at the point of departure, was only ten or twelve yards broad, +shallow, and filled with aquatic plants. Trees and reeds along the banks +overhang it so much, that, though we had brought canoes and a boat +from Tete, we were unable to enter the Mutu with them, and left them +at Mazaro. During most of the year this part of the Mutu is dry, and we +were even now obliged to carry all our luggage by land for about fifteen +miles. As Kilimane is called, in all the Portuguese documents, the +capital of the rivers of Senna, it seemed strange to me that the capital +should be built at a point where there was no direct water conveyance +to the magnificent river whose name it bore; and, on inquiry, I was +informed that the whole of the Mutu was large in days of yore, and +admitted of the free passage of great launches from Kilimane all the +year round, but that now this part of the Mutu had been filled up. + +I was seized by a severe tertian fever at Mazaro, but went along the +right bank of the Mutu to the N.N.E. and E. for about fifteen miles. +We then found that it was made navigable by a river called the Pangazi, +which comes into it from the north. Another river, flowing from the same +direction, called the Luare, swells it still more; and, last of all, +the Likuare, with the tide, make up the river of Kilimane. The Mutu at +Mazaro is simply a connecting link, such as is so often seen in Africa, +and neither its flow nor stoppage affects the river of Kilimane. The +waters of the Pangazi were quite clear compared with those of the +Zambesi.* + + * I owe the following information, of a much later date, also + to the politeness of Captain Washington. H. M. sloop + "Grecian" visited the coast in 1852-3, and the master remarks + that "the entrance to the Luabo is in lat. 18d 51' S., long. + 36d 12' E., and may be known by a range of hummocks on its + eastern side, and very low land to the S.W. The entrance is + narrow, and, as with all the rivers on this coast, is fronted + by a bar, which renders the navigation, particularly for + boats, very dangerous with the wind to the south of east or + west. Our boats proceeded twenty miles up this river, 2 + fathoms on the bar, then 2-1/2--5--6--7 fathoms. It was + navigable farther up, but they did not proceed. It is quite + possible for a moderate-sized vessel to cross the bar at + spring tides, and be perfectly landlocked and hidden among the + trees. + + "The Maiudo, in 18d 52' S., 36d 12' E., IS NOT MENTIONED IN + HORSBURGH, NOR LAID DOWN IN THE ADMIRALTY CHART, but is, + nevertheless, one of some importance, and appears to be one of + the principal stations for shipping slaves, as the boats found + two barracoons, about 20 miles up, bearing every indication of + having been very recently occupied, and which had good + presumptive evidence that the 'Cauraigo', a brig under + American colors, had embarked a cargo from thence but a short + time before. The river is fronted by a portion of the + Elephant Shoals, at the distance of three or four miles + outside. The eastern bank is formed by level sea-cliffs (as + seen from the ship it has that appearance), high for this part + of the coast, and conspicuous. The western side is composed of + thick trees, and terminates in dead wood, from which we called + it 'Dead-wood Point'. After crossing the bar it branches off + in a W. and N.W. direction, the latter being the principal + arm, up which the boats went some 30 miles, or about 10 beyond + the barracoon. Fresh water can be obtained almost immediately + inside the entrance, as the stream runs down very rapidly with + the ebb tide. The least water crossing the bar (low-water-- + springs) was 1-1/2 fathom, one cast only therefrom from 2 to 5 + fathoms, another 7 fathoms nearly the whole way up. + + "The Catrina, latitude 18d 50' south, longitude 36d 24' east. + The external appearance of this river is precisely similar to + that of the Maiudo, so much so that it is difficult to + distinguish them by any feature of the land. The longitude is + the best guide, or, in the absence of observation, perhaps the + angles contained by the extremes of land will be serviceable. + Thus, at nine miles off the Maiudo the angle contained by the + above was seven points, the bearing being N.E. W. of N.W. (?); + while off the Catrina, at the same distance from shore (about + nine miles), the angle was only 3-1/2 to 4 points, being N. to + N.W. As we did not send the boats up this river, no + information was obtained." + +My fever became excessively severe in consequence of traveling in the +hot sun, and the long grass blocking up the narrow path so as to exclude +the air. The pulse beat with amazing force, and felt as if thumping +against the crown of the head. The stomach and spleen swelled +enormously, giving me, for the first time, an appearance which I had +been disposed to laugh at among the Portuguese. At Interra we met Senhor +Asevedo, a man who is well known by all who ever visited Kilimane, and +who was presented with a gold chronometer watch by the Admiralty for +his attentions to English officers. He immediately tendered his large +sailing launch, which had a house in the stern. This was greatly in my +favor, for it anchored in the middle of the stream, and gave me some +rest from the mosquitoes, which in the whole of the delta are something +frightful. Sailing comfortably in this commodious launch along the river +of Kilimane, we reached that village (latitude 17d 53' 8" S., longitude +36d 40' E.) on the 20th of May, 1856, which wanted only a few days of +being four years since I started from Cape Town. Here I was received +into the house of Colonel Galdino Jose Nunes, one of the best men in the +country. I had been three years without hearing from my family; letters +having frequently been sent, but somehow or other, with but a single +exception, they never reached me. I received, however, a letter from +Admiral Trotter, conveying information of their welfare, and some +newspapers, which were a treat indeed. Her majesty's brig the "Frolic" +had called to inquire for me in the November previous, and Captain +Nolluth, of that ship, had most considerately left a case of wine; and +his surgeon, Dr. James Walsh, divining what I should need most, left an +ounce of quinine. These gifts made my heart overflow. I had not tasted +any liquor whatever during the time I had been in Africa; but when +reduced in Angola to extreme weakness, I found much benefit from a +little wine, and took from Loanda one bottle of brandy in my medicine +chest, intending to use it if it were again required; but the boy who +carried it whirled the box upside down, and smashed the bottle, so I can +not give my testimony either in favor of or against the brandy. + +But my joy on reaching the east coast was sadly imbittered by the news +that Commander MacLune, of H. M. brigantine "Dart", on coming in to +Kilimane to pick me up, had, with Lieutenant Woodruffe and five men, +been lost on the bar. I never felt more poignant sorrow. It seemed as if +it would have been easier for me to have died for them, than that they +should all be cut off from the joys of life in generously attempting to +render me a service. I would here acknowledge my deep obligations to the +Earl of Clarendon, to the admiral at the Cape, and others, for the kind +interest they manifested in my safety; even the inquiries made were very +much to my advantage. I also refer with feelings of gratitude to +the Governor of Mozambique for offering me a passage in the schooner +"Zambesi", belonging to that province; and I shall never forget the +generous hospitality of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, with whom I +remained. One of the discoveries I have made is that there are vast +numbers of good people in the world, and I do most devoutly tender my +unfeigned thanks to that Gracious One who mercifully watched over me +in every position, and influenced the hearts of both black and white to +regard me with favor. + +With the united testimony of Captain Parker and Lieutenant Hoskins, +added to my own observation, there can be no reasonable doubt but that +the real mouth of the Zambesi is available for the purposes of commerce. +The delta is claimed by the Portuguese, and the southern bank of the +Luabo, or Cuama, as this part of the Zambesi is sometimes called, is +owned by independent natives of the Caffre family. The Portuguese are +thus near the main entrance to the new central region; and as they have +of late years shown, in an enlightened and liberal spirit, their desire +to develop the resources of Eastern Africa by proclaiming Mozambique +a free port, it is to be hoped that the same spirit will lead them to +invite mercantile enterprise up the Zambesi, by offering facilities to +those who may be led to push commerce into the regions lying far +beyond their territory. Their wish to co-operate in the noble work of +developing the resources of the rich country beyond could not be shown +better than by placing a village with Zambesian pilots at the harbor of +Mitilone, and erecting a light-house for the guidance of seafaring men. +If this were done, no nation would be a greater gainer by it than the +Portuguese themselves, and assuredly no other needs a resuscitation of +its commerce more. Their kindness to me personally makes me wish for a +return of their ancient prosperity; and the most liberal and generous +act of the enlightened young king H. M. Don Pedro, in sending out orders +to support my late companions at the public expense of the province +of Mozambique until my return to claim them, leads me to hope for +encouragement in every measure for either the development of commerce, +the elevation of the natives, or abolition of the trade in slaves. + +As far as I am myself concerned, the opening of the new central country +is a matter for congratulation only in so far as it opens up a prospect +for the elevation of the inhabitants. As I have elsewhere remarked, I +view the end of the geographical feat as the beginning of the missionary +enterprise. I take the latter term in its most extended signification, +and include every effort made for the amelioration of our race, the +promotion of all those means by which God in His providence is working, +and bringing all His dealings with man to a glorious consummation. Each +man in his sphere, either knowingly or unwittingly, is performing the +will of our Father in heaven. Men of science, searching after hidden +truths, which, when discovered, will, like the electric telegraph, +bind men more closely together--soldiers battling for the right against +tyranny--sailors rescuing the victims of oppression from the grasp of +heartless men-stealers--merchants teaching the nations lessons of mutual +dependence--and many others, as well as missionaries, all work in the +same direction, and all efforts are overruled for one glorious end. + +If the reader has accompanied me thus far, he may, perhaps, be disposed +to take an interest in the objects I propose to myself, should God +mercifully grant me the honor of doing something more for Africa. As the +highlands on the borders of the central basin are comparatively healthy, +the first object seems to be to secure a permanent path thither, +in order that Europeans may pass as quickly as possible through the +unhealthy region near the coast. The river has not been surveyed, but +at the time I came down there was abundance of water for a large vessel, +and this continues to be the case during four or five months of each +year. The months of low water still admit of navigation by launches, and +would permit small vessels equal to the Thames steamers to ply with ease +in the deep channel. If a steamer were sent to examine the Zambesi, +I would recommend one of the lightest draught, and the months of May, +June, and July for passing through the delta; and this not so much for +fear of want of water as the danger of being grounded on a sand or mud +bank, and the health of the crew being endangered by the delay. + +In the months referred to no obstruction would be incurred in the +channel below Tete. Twenty or thirty miles above that point we have +a small rapid, of which I regret my inability to speak, as (mentioned +already) I did not visit it. But, taking the distance below this point, +we have, in round numbers, 300 miles of navigable river. Above this +rapid we have another reach of 300 miles, with sand, but no mud banks +in it, which brings us to the foot of the eastern ridge. Let it not, +however, be thought that a vessel by going thither would return laden +with ivory and gold-dust. The Portuguese of Tete pick up all the +merchandise of the tribes in their vicinity, and, though I came out by +traversing the people with whom the Portuguese have been at war, it +does not follow that it will be perfectly safe for others to go in +whose goods may be a stronger temptation to cupidity than any thing I +possessed. When we get beyond the hostile population mentioned, we reach +a very different race. On the latter my chief hopes at present rest. All +of them, however, are willing and anxious to engage in trade, and, while +eager for this, none have ever been encouraged to cultivate the raw +materials of commerce. Their country is well adapted for cotton; and I +venture to entertain the hope that by distributing seeds of better kinds +than that which is found indigenous, and stimulating the natives to +cultivate it by affording them the certainty of a market for all they +may produce, we may engender a feeling of mutual dependence between them +and ourselves. I have a twofold object in view, and believe that, by +guiding our missionary labors so as to benefit our own country, we shall +thereby more effectually and permanently benefit the heathen. Seven +years were spent at Kolobeng in instructing my friends there; but the +country being incapable of raising materials for exportation, when the +Boers made their murderous attack and scattered the tribe for a season, +none sympathized except a few Christian friends. Had the people of +Kolobeng been in the habit of raising the raw materials of English +commerce, the outrage would have been felt in England; or, what is more +likely to have been the case, the people would have raised themselves +in the scale by barter, and have become, like the Basutos of Moshesh +and people of Kuruman, possessed of fire-arms, and the Boers would +never have made the attack at all. We ought to encourage the Africans +to cultivate for our markets, as the most effectual means, next to the +Gospel, of their elevation. + +It is in the hope of working out this idea that I propose the formation +of stations on the Zambesi beyond the Portuguese territory, but having +communication through them with the coast. A chain of stations admitting +of easy and speedy intercourse, such as might be formed along the flank +of the eastern ridge, would be in a favorable position for carrying out +the objects in view. The London Missionary Society has resolved to have +a station among the Makololo on the north bank, and another on the +south among the Matebele. The Church--Wesleyan, Baptist, and that most +energetic body, the Free Church--could each find desirable locations +among the Batoka and adjacent tribes. The country is so extensive there +is no fear of clashing. All classes of Christians find that sectarian +rancor soon dies out when they are working together among and for the +real heathen. Only let the healthy locality be searched for and fixed +upon, and then there will be free scope to work in the same cause +in various directions, without that loss of men which the system of +missions on the unhealthy coasts entails. While respectfully submitting +the plan to these influential societies, I can positively state that, +when fairly in the interior, there is perfect security for life and +property among a people who will at least listen and reason. + +Eight of my men begged to be allowed to come as far as Kilimane, and, +thinking that they would there see the ocean, I consented to their +coming, though the food was so scarce in consequence of a dearth that +they were compelled to suffer some hunger. They would fain have come +farther; for when Sekeletu parted with them, his orders were that none +of them should turn until they had reached Ma Robert and brought her +back with them. On my explaining the difficulty of crossing the sea, he +said, "Wherever you lead, they must follow." As I did not know well how +I should get home myself, I advised them to go back to Tete, where food +was abundant, and there await my return. I bought a quantity of calico +and brass wire with ten of the smaller tusks which we had in our charge, +and sent the former back as clothing to those who remained at Tete. As +there were still twenty tusks left, I deposited them with Colonel Nunes, +that, in the event of any thing happening to prevent my return, the +impression might not be produced in the country that I had made away +with Sekeletu's ivory. I instructed Colonel Nunes, in case of my death, +to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to my men; but I intended, if +my life should be prolonged, to purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu +in England with my own money, and pay myself on my return out of +the price of the ivory. This I explained to the men fully, and they, +understanding the matter, replied, "Nay, father, you will not die; you +will return to take us back to Sekeletu." They promised to wait till I +came back, and, on my part, I assured them that nothing but death would +prevent my return. This I said, though while waiting at Kilimane a +letter came from the Directors of the London Missionary Society stating +that "they were restricted in their power of aiding plans connected +only remotely with the spread of the Gospel, and that the financial +circumstances of the society were not such as to afford any ground of +hope that it would be in a position, within any definite period, to +enter upon untried, remote, and difficult fields of labor." This has +been explained since as an effusion caused by temporary financial +depression; but, feeling perfect confidence in my Makololo friends, I +was determined to return and trust to their generosity. The old love of +independence, which I had so strongly before joining the society, again +returned. It was roused by a mistaken view of what this letter meant; +for the directors, immediately on my reaching home, saw the great +importance of the opening, and entered with enlightened zeal on the work +of sending the Gospel into the new field. It is to be hoped that their +constituents will not only enable them to begin, but to carry out their +plans, and that no material depression will ever again be permitted, nor +appearance of spasmodic benevolence recur. While I hope to continue the +same cordial co-operation and friendship which have always characterized +our intercourse, various reasons induce me to withdraw from pecuniary +dependence on any society. I have done something for the heathen, but +for an aged mother, who has still more sacred claims than they, I have +been able to do nothing, and a continuance of the connection would be +a perpetuation of my inability to make any provision for her declining +years. In addition to "clergyman's sore throat", which partially +disabled me from the work, my father's death imposed new obligations; +and a fresh source of income having been opened to me without my asking, +I had no hesitation in accepting what would enable me to fulfill my duty +to my aged parent as well as to the heathen. + +If the reader remembers the way in which I was led, while teaching the +Bakwains, to commence exploration, he will, I think, recognize the +hand of Providence. Anterior to that, when Mr. Moffat began to give +the Bible--the Magna Charta of all the rights and privileges of modern +civilization--to the Bechuanas, Sebituane went north, and spread the +language into which he was translating the sacred oracles in a new +region larger than France. Sebituane, at the same time, rooted out +hordes of bloody savages, among whom no white man could have gone +without leaving his skull to ornament some village. He opened up the +way for me--let us hope also for the Bible. Then, again, while I +was laboring at Kolobeng, seeing only a small arc of the cycle of +Providence, I could not understand it, and felt inclined to ascribe our +successive and prolonged droughts to the wicked one. But when forced by +these and the Boers to become explorer, and open a new country in the +north rather than set my face southward, where missionaries are not +needed, the gracious Spirit of God influenced the minds of the heathen +to regard me with favor; the Divine hand is again perceived. Then I +turned away westward rather than in the opposite direction, chiefly from +observing that some native Portuguese, though influenced by the hope of +a reward from their government to cross the continent, had been obliged +to return from the east without accomplishing their object. Had I +gone at first in the eastern direction, which the course of the great +Leeambye seemed to invite, I should have come among the belligerents +near Tete when the war was raging at its height, instead of, as it +happened, when all was over. And again, when enabled to reach Loanda, +the resolution to do my duty by going back to Linyanti probably saved me +from the fate of my papers in the "Forerunner". And then, last of all, +this new country is partially opened to the sympathies of Christendom, +and I find that Sechele himself has, though unbidden by man, been +teaching his own people. In fact, he has been doing all that I was +prevented from doing, and I have been employed in exploring--a work +I had no previous intention of performing. I think that I see the +operation of the unseen hand in all this, and I humbly hope that it will +still guide me to do good in my day and generation in Africa. + +Viewing the success awarded to opening up the new country as a +development of Divine Providence in relation to the African family, +the mind naturally turns to the probable influence it may have on negro +slavery, and more especially on the practice of it by a large portion of +our own race. We now demand increased supplies of cotton and sugar, +and then reprobate the means our American brethren adopt to supply our +wants. We claim a right to speak about this evil, and also to act in +reference to its removal, the more especially because we are of one +blood. It is on the Anglo-American race that the hopes of the world for +liberty and progress rest. Now it is very grievous to find one portion +of this race practicing the gigantic evil, and the other aiding, by +increased demands for the produce of slave labor, in perpetuating the +enormous wrong. The Mauritius, a mere speck on the ocean, yields sugar, +by means of guano, improved machinery, and free labor, equal in amount +to one fourth part of the entire consumption of Great Britain. On that +island land is excessively dear and far from rich: no crop can be raised +except by means of guano, and labor has to be brought all the way from +India. But in Africa the land is cheap, the soil good, and free labor +is to be found on the spot. Our chief hopes rest with the natives +themselves; and if the point to which I have given prominence, of +healthy inland commercial stations, be realized, where all the produce +raised may be collected, there is little doubt but that slavery among +our kinsmen across the Atlantic will, in the course of some years, cease +to assume the form of a necessity to even the slaveholders themselves. +Natives alone can collect produce from the more distant hamlets, and +bring it to the stations contemplated. This is the system pursued so +successfully in Angola. If England had possessed that strip of land, by +civilly declining to enrich her "frontier colonists" by "Caffre +wars", the inborn energy of English colonists would have developed its +resources, and the exports would not have been 100,000 Pounds as now, +but one million at least. The establishment of the necessary agency must +be a work of time, and greater difficulty will be experienced on the +eastern than on the western side of the continent, because in the one +region we have a people who know none but slave-traders, while in +the other we have tribes who have felt the influence of the coast +missionaries and of the great Niger expedition; one invaluable benefit +it conferred was the dissemination of the knowledge of English love of +commerce and English hatred of slavery, and it therefore was no failure. +But on the east there is a river which may become a good pathway to +a central population who are friendly to the English; and if we +can conciliate the less amicable people on the river, and introduce +commerce, an effectual blow will be struck at the slave-trade in that +quarter. By linking the Africans there to ourselves in the manner +proposed, it is hoped that their elevation will eventually be the +result. In this hope and proposed effort I am joined by my brother +Charles, who has come from America, after seventeen years' separation, +for the purpose. We expect success through the influence of that Spirit +who already aided the efforts to open the country, and who has since +turned the public mind toward it. A failure may be experienced by sudden +rash speculation overstocking the markets there, and raising the prices +against ourselves. But I propose to spend some more years of labor, and +shall be thankful if I see the system fairly begun in an open pathway +which will eventually benefit both Africa and England. + +The village of Kilimane stands on a great mud bank, and is surrounded by +extensive swamps and rice-grounds. The banks of the river are lined with +mangrove bushes, the roots of which, and the slimy banks on which they +grow, are alternately exposed to the tide and sun. The houses are well +built of brick and lime, the latter from Mozambique. If one digs down +two or three feet in any part of the site of the village, he comes to +water; hence the walls built on this mud bank gradually subside; pieces +are sometimes sawn off the doors below, because the walls in which they +are fixed have descended into the ground, so as to leave the floors +higher than the bottom of the doors. It is almost needless to say that +Kilimane is very unhealthy. A man of plethoric temperament is sure to +get fever, and concerning a stout person one may hear the remark, "Ah! +he will not live long; he is sure to die." + +A Hamburgh vessel was lost near the bar before we came down. The men +were much more regular in their habits than English sailors, so I had +an opportunity of observing the fever acting as a slow poison. They +felt "out of sorts" only, but gradually became pale, bloodless, and +emaciated, then weaker and weaker, till at last they sank more like oxen +bitten by tsetse than any disease I ever saw. The captain, a strong, +robust young man, remained in perfect health for about three months, +but was at last knocked down suddenly and made as helpless as a child +by this terrible disease. He had imbibed a foolish prejudice +against quinine, our sheet-anchor in the complaint. This is rather +a professional subject, but I introduce it here in order to protest +against the prejudice as almost entirely unfounded. Quinine is +invaluable in fever, and never produces any unpleasant effects in any +stage of the disease, IF EXHIBITED IN COMBINATION WITH AN APERIENT. The +captain was saved by it, without his knowledge, and I was thankful that +the mode of treatment, so efficacious among natives, promised so fair +among Europeans. + +After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, in which, however, +by the kind attentions of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, I partially +recovered from my tertian, H. M. brig "Frolic" arrived off Kilimane. As +the village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was rough, she +was at anchor ten days before we knew of her presence about seven miles +from the entrance to the port. She brought abundant supplies for all +my need, and 150 Pounds to pay my passage home, from my kind friend +Mr. Thompson, the Society's agent at the Cape. The admiral at the Cape +kindly sent an offer of a passage to the Mauritius, which I thankfully +accepted. Sekwebu and one attendant alone remained with me now. He was +very intelligent, and had been of the greatest service to me; indeed, +but for his good sense, tact, and command of the language of the tribes +through which we passed, I believe we should scarcely have succeeded in +reaching the coast. I naturally felt grateful to him; and as his chief +wished ALL my companions to go to England with me, and would probably be +disappointed if none went, I thought it would be beneficial for him to +see the effects of civilization, and report them to his countrymen; I +wished also to make some return for his very important services. Others +had petitioned to come, but I explained the danger of a change of +climate and food, and with difficulty restrained them. The only one +who now remained begged so hard to come on board ship that I greatly +regretted that the expense prevented my acceding to his wish to visit +England. I said to him, "You will die if you go to such a cold country +as mine." "That is nothing," he reiterated; "let me die at your feet." + +When we parted from our friends at Kilimane, the sea on the bar was +frightful even to the seamen. This was the first time Sekwebu had seen +the sea. Captain Peyton had sent two boats in case of accident. The +waves were so high that, when the cutter was in one trough, and we in +the pinnace in another, her mast was hid. We then mounted to the crest +of the wave, rushed down the slope, and struck the water again with +a blow which felt as if she had struck the bottom. Boats must be +singularly well constructed to be able to stand these shocks. Three +breakers swept over us. The men lift up their oars, and a wave comes +sweeping over all, giving the impression that the boat is going down, +but she only goes beneath the top of the wave, comes out on the other +side, and swings down the slope, and a man bales out the water with a +bucket. Poor Sekwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke over, +and said, "Is this the way you go? Is this the way you go?" I smiled +and said, "Yes; don't you see it is?" and tried to encourage him. He was +well acquainted with canoes, but never had seen aught like this. When we +reached the ship--a fine, large brig of sixteen guns and a crew of one +hundred and thirty--she was rolling so that we could see a part of her +bottom. It was quite impossible for landsmen to catch the ropes and +climb up, so a chair was sent down, and we were hoisted in as ladies +usually are, and received so hearty an English welcome from Captain +Peyton and all on board that I felt myself at once at home in every +thing except my own mother tongue. I seemed to know the language +perfectly, but the words I wanted would not come at my call. When I +left England I had no intention of returning, and directed my +attention earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to English +composition. With the exception of a short interval in Angola, I had +been three and a half years without speaking English, and this, with +thirteen years of previous partial disuse of my native tongue, made me +feel sadly at a loss on board the "Frolic". + +We left Kilimane on the 12th of July, and reached the Mauritius on the +12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was picking up English, and becoming a +favorite with both men and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, +every thing on board a man-of-war being so new and strange; but he +remarked to me several times, "Your countrymen are very agreeable," and, +"What a strange country this is--all water together!" He also said that +he now understood why I used the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius +a steamer came out to tow us into the harbor. The constant strain on +his untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, for during the night +he became insane. I thought at first that he was intoxicated. He had +descended into a boat, and, when I attempted to go down and bring him +into the ship, he ran to the stern and said, "No! no! it is enough that +I die alone. You must not perish; if you come, I shall throw myself +into the water." Perceiving that his mind was affected, I said, "Now, +Sekwebu, we are going to Ma Robert." This struck a chord in his bosom, +and he said, "Oh yes; where is she, and where is Robert?" and he seemed +to recover. The officers proposed to secure him by putting him in irons; +but, being a gentleman in his own country, I objected, knowing that the +insane often retain an impression of ill treatment, and I could not +bear to have it said in Sekeletu's country that I had chained one of +his principal men as they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get him +on shore by day, but he refused. In the evening a fresh accession +of insanity occurred; he tried to spear one of the crew, then leaped +overboard, and, though he could swim well, pulled himself down hand +under hand by the chain cable. We never found the body of poor Sekwebu. + +At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by Major General C. M. +Hay, and he generously constrained me to remain with him till, by the +influence of the good climate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an +enlarged spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Red Sea; +escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable management of +Captain Powell, of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Company's ship +"Candia", and on the 12th of December was once more in dear old England. +The Company most liberally refunded my passage-money. I have not +mentioned half the favors bestowed, but I may just add that no one has +cause for more abundant gratitude to his fellow-men and to his Maker +than I have; and may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that +I may be more humbly devoted to the service of the Author of all our +mercies! + + + +Appendix.--Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions. + +[The "Remarks" column has been replaced, where needed, with remarks listed +below the corresponding line, and inclosed in square brackets.] + + + ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets + South. East. of Lunar + Distances. + ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + d ' " d ' " W. E. + Manakalongwe Pass. 22 55 52 . . . 1853, Jan. 26 + Letloche. 22 38 0 . . . Jan. 28 + Kanne. 22 26 56 . . . Jan. 31 + Lotlokane, where the first 21 27 47 . . . Feb. 11, 12 + Palmyra-trees occur. + Hence path to Nchokotsa N.N.W., + thence to Kobe N.W. + Kobe (1st group). 20 53 14 24 52 0 Feb. 18, 19 + Kama Kama, from whence 19 52 31 . . . Mar. 2 + traveled in magnetic + meridian (1st group). + Fever Ponds (1st group). 19 15 53 24 55 0 Mar. 11, 28 + Ten miles S. of hill N'gwa 18 38 0 24 26 0 Apr. 14 + (1st group). + N'gwa Hill (a central 18 27 50 24 13 36 Apr. 15, 16 + occultation of + B.A.C. 2364 Gemini). + N'gwa Valley, half mile 18 27 20 24 13 36 Apr. 17 + N. of hill. + E. of and in parallel of 18 20 0 . . . Apr. 17 + Wagon Station of 1851. + Wagon Station on the Chobe, 18 20 0 23 50 0 . . . + three miles S. + of Sekeletu's Town. + Sekeletu's Town (1st group). 18 17 20 23 50 9 |June 13 | + |July 14, 17| + [ Boiling-point of water = 205-1/3 Deg.; Alt. = 3521 feet. ] + Island Mahonta. The Chobe 17 58 0 (24 6) Apr. 26 + runs here in 17d 58'. + Banks of Sanshureh River, 18 4 27 24 6 20 Apr. 26 + a branch of the Chobe + (1st group). + [ At a well-known Baobab-tree 9' south of Mahonta island. ] + Town of Sesheke 17 31 38 25 13 0 1855, Aug. 31 . 1 + on the Zambesi. + Sekhosi's Town on 17 29 13 . . . 1853, July 26, 27 + the Zambesi (about 25 miles + W. of Sesheke). + Cataract of Nambwe. 17 17 16 . . . July 31 + Confluence of 17 7 31 . . . 1855, Aug. 22 . 1 + Njoko and Zambesi. + Cataract of Bombwe. 16 56 33 . . . 1853, Aug. 1 + Kale Cataract. 16 49 52 . . . 1855, Aug. 21 . 1 + Falls of Gonye. 16 38 50 23 55 0 |1853, Aug. 2| + |1855, Aug. 19| 1 2 + Nameta. 16 12 9 . . . Aug. 17 . 2 + Seori sa Mei, 16 0 32 . . . 1853, Aug. 5 + or Island of Water. + Litofe Island, town of. 15 55 0 . . . Aug. 6 + Loyela, S. end of this 15 27 30 . . . Aug. 9 + island, town of Mamochisane. + Naliele or Nariele, 15 24 17 23 5 54 Aug. 10, 13 + chief town of Barotse + (occultation of Jupiter) + (1st group). + Linangelo, old town 15 18 40 . . . Aug. 19 + of Santuru (site nearly + swallowed up). + Katongo (near Slave 15 16 33 . . . Aug. 30 + Merchants' Stockade). + Point of Junction of Nariele 15 15 43 . . . Aug. 29 + Branch with the Main Stream. + Quando Village. 15 6 8 . . . Aug. 28 + Town of Libonta. 14 59 0 . . . Aug. 21 + Island of Tongane. 14 38 6 . . . Aug. 23 + Cowrie Island. 14 20 5 . . . Aug. 24 + Junction of the Loeti 14 18 57 . . . Aug. + with the Main Stream + (Leeambye, Zambesi). + [ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ] + Confluence of the Leeba 14 10 52 23 35 40 Aug. 24, 25 + or Lonta with the Leeambye + (1st group). + Kabompo, near the Leeba. 12 37 35 22 47 0 |1854, Jan. 1| + |1855, July 3| . 3 + Village about 2' N.W. 12 6 6 22 57 0 1854, Feb. 1 + of the Leeba after leaving + Kabompo town: the hill Peeri, + or Piri, bearing S.S.E., + distant about 6'. + Village of Soana Molopo, 11 49 22 22 42 0 Feb. 7 + 3' from Lokalueje River. + Village of Quendende, 11 41 17 . . . Feb. 11 + about 2' S.E. of the ford + of the Lotembwa, and about + 9' from the town of Katema. + Banks of the Lovoa. 11 40 54 . . . 1855, June 20 2 . + Lofuje River flows into 12 52 35 22 49 0 July 7 . 3 + the Leeba; Nyamoana's village. + Confluence of the Makondo 13 23 12 . . . July 13 + and Leeba Rivers. + Katema's Town, 5' S. of Lake 11 35 49 22 27 0 1854, Feb. 17 . 2 + Dilolo, the source of the + Lotembwa, one of the principal + feeders of the Leeba. + Lake Dilolo (station about 11 32 1 . . . 1855, June 18 . 2 + half a mile S. of the lake). June 13 . . + [ Boiling-point of water = 203 Deg. = 4741 feet. ] + Village near the ford of 11 15 55 . . . 1854, Feb. 28 + the River Kasai, Kasye, + or Loke. The ford is + in latitude 11d 17'. + Bango's Village, about 10' 10 22 53 20 58 0 1855, May 28 3 . + W. of the Loembwe. + Banks of the Stream Chihune. 10 57 30 (20 53)*1* 1854, Mar. 8 + [ The longitude doubtful. ] + Ionga Panza's village. 10 25 0 20 15 0 *2* Mar. 20 + Ford of the River Quango. 9 50 0 (18 27 0) Apr. 5 + Cassange, about 40 or 50 9 37 30 17 49 0 Apr. 13, 17 3 2 + miles W. of the River Quango, + and situated in a deep valley. + Tala Mungongo, 2' E. 9 42 37 (17 27) Jan. 11, 14 + of following station. + [ Longitude not observed: Water boils-- + Top of = 206 Deg., height 3151 feet. + Bottom of descent = 208 Deg. = 2097 feet. + Bottom of east ascent = 205 Deg. = 3680 feet. + Top " " " = 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ] + Banks of the Quinze, 9 42 37 17 25 0 1855, Jan. 10 . 1 + near the source, 2' W. of + the sudden descent which + forms the valley of Cassange. + Sanza, on the River Quize 9 37 46 16 59 0 Jan. 7 . 4 + (about 15 yards wide). + Pungo Andongo, 9 42 14 15 30 0 1854, Dec. 11 . 4 + on the River Coanza. + [ On the top of the rocks water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ] + On the River Coanza, 9 47 2 . . . Dec. 22 + 2' W. of Pungo Andongo. + Candumba, 15 miles E. of 9 42 46 . . . 1855, Jan. 2 + Pungo Andongo, 300 yards + N. of the Coanza. + Confluence of the Lombe 9 41 26 . . . Jan. 3 + and Coanza, 8' or 10' E. + of Candumba, and at house + of M. Pires, taken at about + half a mile N. of confluence. + [ Here the Coanza takes its southern bend. ] + Golungo Alto, about midway 9 8 30 14 51 0 1854,|Oct. 27| + between Ambaca and Loanda. |May 14| + "Aguaes doces" in Cassange, 9 15 2 . . . Oct. 6, 7 . 2 + 10' W. of Golungo Alto. + [ At the confluence of the Luinha and Luce. ] + Confluence of the Luinha 9 26 23 . . . + and Lucalla. + Confluence of the Lucalla 9 37 46 . . . Oct. 11, 12 + and Coanza, Massangano + town and fort. + [ A prominent hill in Cazengo, called Zungo, is about 6' + S.S.W. of "Aguaes doces", and it bears N.E. by E. + from the house of the commandant at Massangano. ] + Ambaca, residence of the 9 16 35 15 23 0 Dec. 6 + commandant of the district. + Kalai, 17 51 54 25 41 0 1855, Nov. 18 2 3 + near the Mosioatunya Falls. + Lekone Rivulet. 17 45 6 25 55 0 Nov. 20 4 1 + [ Water boils at 204-1/2 Deg. = 3945 feet. Between Lekone and Kalomo, + Marimba 203-1/4 Deg. = 4608 feet. ] + Kalomo River. (17 3 0) . . . Nov. 30 . 1 + [ The lat. and long. doubtful. Top of ridge, water boils + at 202 Deg. = 5278 feet. ] + Rivulet of Dela, 16 56 0 26 45 0 Dec. 2 . 3 + called Mozuma. + Kise Kise Hills. 16 27 20 . . . Dec. 3 + Nakachinto Rivulet. 16 11 24 . . . Dec. 11 + [ On eastern descent from ridge, water boils at 204 Deg. = 4210 feet. ] + Elephant's Grave. (16 3 0) (28 10) Dec. 14 1 . + [ The latitude not observed. ] + Kenia Hills, Rivulet Losito (15 56 0) (28 1) Dec. 16 3 . + on their western flank. + [ The latitude not observed. ] + 6' E. of Bolengwe Gorge, 15 48 19 28 22 0 Dec. 18 3 3 + and on the banks of the Kafue. + 7' or 8' N.E. or E.N.E. (15 49 0) (28 34) *3* Dec. 29 . 4 + of the confluence of + the Kafue and Zambesi, + at a rivulet called Kambare. + [ The lat. not observed; water boils 205-1/2 Deg. = 3415 feet. + Top of the hills Semalembue, water boils 204-1/2 Deg. = 4078 feet. + Bottom of ditto, 205-3/4 Deg. = 3288 feet. ] + Confluence of Kafue 15 53 0 . . . + and Zambesi. + Banks of Zambesi, 15 50 49 . . . Dec. 30 + 8' or 10' below confluence. + [ Water boils at 209 Deg. = 1571 feet. ] + Village of Ma-Mburuma, 15 36 57 30 22 0 1856, Jan. 12 1 1 + about 10 miles from Zumbo. + Zumbo station, ruins of a 15 37 22 30 32 0 Jan. 13 2 3 + church on the right bank of + the Loangwa, about 300 yards + from confluence with Zambesi. + [ Water boils at 209-1/4 Deg. = 1440 feet. ] + Chilonda's Village, quarter 15 38 34 30 52 0 Jan. 20 3 . + of a mile N. of Zambesi, + near the Kabanka Hill. + Opposite Hill Pinkwe. 15 39 11 (32 5) *4* Feb. 7 . 1 + [ Long. doubtful; the moon's alt. only 4 Deg. ] + Moshua Rivulet. 15 45 33 32 22 0 *5* Feb. 9 1 2 + Tangwe Rivulet, or 16 13 38 32 29 0 Feb. 20 + Sand River, 1/4 mile broad. + Tete or Nyungwe station, 16 9 3 33 28 0 Mar. 2, 17 4 8 + house of commandant. + Hot Spring Makorozi, 15 59 35 . . . Mar. 13 + about 10 m. up the river. + Below Tete, island of 16 34 46 32 51 0 Apr. 23 1 . + Mozambique, on the Zambesi. + Island of Nkuesa. 17 1 6 . . . Apr. 25 + Senna, 300 yards S.W. 17 27 1 34 57 0 *6* |April 27| 2 6 + of the Mud Fort on the bank |May 8, 9| + of the river. + Islet of Shupanga. 17 51 38 . . . May 12 + Small islet in the middle of 17 59 21 . . . May 13 + the Zambesi, and six or eight + miles below Shupanga. + Mazaro or Mutu, 18 3 37 35 57 0 May 14 2 2 + where the Kilimane River + branches off the Zambesi. + Kilimane Village, 17 53 8 36 40 0 *7* June 13, 25, 27 1 6 + at the house of Senor + Galdino Jose Nunes, + colonel of militia. + ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + Positions. Latitude. Longitude. Date. No. of Sets + South. East. of Lunar + Distances. + ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + *1* Probably 20d 25'.--I. A. + *2* Probably 20d 10'.--I. A. + *3* Probably 28d 56'.--I. A. + *4* Probably 31d 46' 30".--I. A. + *5* Probably 31d 56'.--I. A. + *6* Probably 35d 10' 15".--I. A. + *7* Probably 36d 56' 8".--I. A. + + +Appendix.--Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, February, 1858. + +[This review is provided to allow the reader to view Livingstone's +achievement as it was seen by a contemporary.--A. L., 1997.] + + + +Livingstone's Travels in South Africa.* + + * 'Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa'. By + David Livingstone, LL.D., D.C.L. 1 vol. 8vo. With Maps and + numerous Illustrations. Harper and Brothers. + + 'Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa'. By + Henry Barth, Ph.D., D.C.L. 3 vols. 8vo. With Map and numerous + Illustrations. Harper and Brothers. + + +These two works, each embodying the results of years of travel and +research, entirely revolutionize all our theories as to the geographical +and physical character of Central Africa. Instead of lofty mountains and +sandy deserts, we have a wide basin, or rather series of basins, with +lakes and great rivers, and a soil fertile even when compared with the +abounding exuberance of our own Western valleys and prairies. + +Barth, traveling southward from the Mediterranean, explored this +region till within eight degrees of the equator. Livingstone, traveling +northward from the Cape of Good Hope, approached the equator from the +south as nearly as Barth did from the north. He then traversed the +whole breadth of the continent diagonally from the west to the east. +His special researches cover the entire space between the eighth and +fifteenth parallels of south latitude. Between the regions explored by +Barth and Livingstone lies an unexplored tract extending eight degrees +on each side of the equator, and occupying the whole breadth of +the continent from east to west. Lieutenant Burton, famous for his +expedition to Mecca and Medina, set out from Zanzibar a few months +since, with the design of traversing this very region. If he succeeds +in his purpose his explorations will fill up the void between those of +Barth and Livingstone. + +Dr. Livingstone, with whose travels we are at present specially +concerned, is no ordinary man. The son of a Presbyterian deacon and +small trader in Glasgow; set to work in a cotton factory at ten years +old; buying a Latin grammar with his first earnings; working from six in +the morning till eight at night, then attending evening-school till +ten, and pursuing his studies till midnight; at sixteen a fair classical +scholar, with no inconsiderable reading in books of science and travels, +gained, sentence by sentence, with the book open before him on his +spinning-jenny; botanizing and geologizing on holidays and at spare +hours; poring over books of astrology till he was startled by inward +suggestions to sell his soul to the Evil One as the price of the +mysterious knowledge of the stars; soundly flogged by the good deacon +his father by way of imparting to him a liking for Boston's "Fourfold +State" and Wilberforce's "Practical Christianity"; then convinced by the +writings of the worthy Thomas Dick that there was no hostility between +Science and Religion, embracing with heart and mind the doctrines of +evangelical Christianity, and resolving to devote his life to their +extension among the heathen--such are the leading features of the early +life of David Livingstone. + +He would equip himself for the warfare and afterward fight with the +powers of darkness at his own cost. So at the age of nineteen--a slim, +loose-jointed lad--he commenced the study of medicine and Greek, and +afterward of theology, in the University of Glasgow, attending lectures +in the winter, paying his expenses by working as a cotton-spinner during +the summer, without receiving a farthing of aid from any one. + +His purpose was to go to China as a medical missionary, and he would +have accomplished his object solely by his own efforts had not some +friends advised him to join the London Missionary Society. He offered +himself, with a half hope that his application would be rejected, for it +was not quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way to become +dependent in a measure upon others. + +By the time when his medical and theological studies were completed, +the Opium War had rendered it inexpedient to go to China, and his +destination was fixed for Southern Africa. + +He reached his field of labor in 1840. Having tarried for three months +at the head station at Kuruman, and taken to wife a daughter of the +well-known missionary Mr. Moffat, he pushed still farther into the +country, and attached himself to the band of Sechele, chief of the +Bakwains, or "Alligators", a Bechuana tribe. Here, cutting himself for +six months wholly off from all European society, he gained an insight +into the language, laws, modes of life, and habits of the Bechuanas, +which proved of incalculable advantage in all his subsequent intercourse +with them. + +Sechele gave a ready ear to the missionary's instructions. + +"Did your forefathers know of a future judgment?" he asked. + +"They knew of it," replied the missionary, who proceeded to describe the +scenes of the last great day. + +"You startle me: these words make all my bones to shake; I have no more +strength in me. But my forefathers were living at the same time yours +were; and how is it that they did not send them word about these +terrible things? They all passed away into darkness without knowing +whither they were going." + +Mr. Moffat had translated the Bible into the Bechuana language, which he +had reduced to writing, and Sechele set himself to learn to read, with +so much assiduity that he began to grow corpulent from lack of his +accustomed exercise. His great favorite was Isaiah. "He was a fine man, +that Isaiah; he knew how to speak," he was wont to say, using the very +words applied by the Glasgow Professor to the Apostle Paul. Having +become convinced of the truth of Christianity, he wished his people also +to become Christians. "I will call them together," he said, "and with +our rhinoceros-skin whips we will soon make them all believe together." +Livingstone, mindful, perhaps, of the ill success of his worthy father +in the matter of Wilberforce on "Practical Christianity", did not favor +the proposed line of argument. He was, in fact, in no great haste +to urge Sechele to make a full profession of faith by receiving the +ordinance of baptism; for the chief had, in accordance with the customs +of his people, taken a number of wives, of whom he must, in this case, +put away all except one. The head-wife was a greasy old jade, who was +in the habit of attending church without her gown, and when her husband +sent her home to make her toilet, she would pout out her thick lips in +unutterable disgust at his new-fangled notions, while some of the other +wives were the best scholars in the school. After a while Sechele took +the matter into his own hands, sent his supernumerary wives back to +their friends--not empty-handed--and was baptized. + +Mr. Livingstone's station was in the region since rendered famous by +the hunting exploits of Gordon Cumming. He vouches for the truth of +the wonderful stories told by that redoubtable Nimrod, who visited him +during each of his excursions. He himself, indeed, had an adventure with +a lion quite equal to any thing narrated by Cumming or Andersson, the +result of which was one dead lion, two Bechuanas fearfully wounded, his +own arm marked with eleven distinct teeth-marks, the bone crunched to +splinters, and the formation of a false joint, which marred his shooting +ever after. + +Mr. Livingstone has a republican contempt for the "King of Beasts". He +is nothing better than an overgrown hulking dog, not a match, in fair +fight, for a buffalo. If a traveler encounter him by daylight, he turns +tail and sneaks out of sight like a scared greyhound. All the talk about +his majestic roar is sheer twaddle. It takes a keen ear to distinguish +the voice of the lion from that of the silly ostrich. When he is gorged +he falls asleep, and a couple of natives approach him without fear. One +discharges an arrow, the point of which has been anointed with a subtle +poison, made of the dried entrails of a species of caterpillar, while +the other flings his skin cloak over his head. The beast bolts away +incontinently, but soon dies, howling and biting the ground in agony. +In the dark, or at all hours when breeding, the lion is an ugly enough +customer; but if a man will stay at home by night, and does not go out +of his way to attack him, he runs less risk in Africa of being devoured +by a lion than he does in our cities of being run over by an omnibus--so +says Mr. Livingstone. + +When the lion grows old he leads a miserable life. Unable to master the +larger game, he prowls about the villages in the hope of picking up a +stray goat. A woman of child venturing out at night does not then come +amiss. When the natives hear of one prowling about the villages, they +say, "His teeth are worn; he will soon kill men," and thereupon turn out +to kill him. This is the only foundation for the common belief that +when the lion has once tasted human flesh he will eat nothing else. A +"man-eater" is always an old lion, who takes to cannibalism to avoid +starvation. When he lives far from human habitations, and so can not get +goats or children, an old lion is often reduced to such straits as to be +obliged to live upon mice, and such small deer. + +Mr. Livingstone's strictly missionary life among the Bakwains lasted +eight or nine years. The family arose early, and, after prayers and +breakfast, went to the school-room, where men, women, and children were +assembled. School was over at eleven, when the husband set about his +work as gardener, smith, or carpenter, while his wife busied herself +with domestic matters--baking bread, a hollow in a deserted ant-hill +serving for an oven; churning butter in an earthen jar; running candles; +making soap from ashes containing so little alkaline matter that the +ley had to be kept boiling for a month or six weeks before it was +strong enough for use. The wife was maid-of-all-work in doors, while the +husband was Jack-at-all-trades outside. Three several times the tribe +removed their place of residence, and he was so many times compelled +to build for himself a house, every stick and brick of which was put in +place by his own hands. The heat of the day past, and dinner over, the +wife betook herself to the infant and sewing schools, while the husband +walked down to the village to talk with the natives. Three nights in +the week, after the cows had been milked, public meetings were held for +instruction in religious and secular matters. All these multifarious +duties were diversified by attendance upon the sick, and in various ways +aiding the poor and wretched. Being in so many ways helpful to them, +and having, besides, shown from the first that he could knock them up at +hard work or traveling, we can not wonder that Livingstone was popular +among the Bakwains, though conversions seem to have been of the rarest. +Indeed, we are not sure but Sechele's was the only case. + +A great drought set in the very first year of his residence among them, +which increased year by year. The river ran dry; the canals which he +had induced them to dig for the purpose of irrigating their gardens were +useless; the fish died in such numbers that the congregated hyenas of +the country were unable to devour the putrid masses. The rain-makers +tried their spells in vain. The clouds sometimes gathered promisingly +overhead, but only to roll away without discharging a drop upon the +scorched plains. The people began to suspect some connection between the +new religion and the drought. "We like you," they said, "but we wish you +would give up this everlasting preaching and praying. You see that we +never get any rain, while the tribes who never pray have an abundance." +Livingstone could not deny the fact, and he was sometimes disposed to +attribute it to the malevolence of the "Prince of the Power of the Air", +eager to frustrate the good work. + +The people behaved wonderfully well, though the scarcity amounted almost +to famine. The women sold their ornaments to buy corn from the more +fortunate tribes around; the children scoured the country for edible +roots; the men betook themselves to hunting. They constructed great +traps, called 'hopos', consisting of two lines of hedges, a mile long, +far apart at the extremities, but converging like the sides of the +letter V, with a deep pit at the narrow end. Then forming a circuit for +miles around, they drove the game--buffaloes, zebras, gnus, antelopes, +and the like--into the mouth of the hopo, and along its narrowing lane, +until they plunged pell-mell in one confused, writhing, struggling mass +into the pit, where they were speared at leisure. + +The precarious mode of life occasioned by the long drought interfered +sadly with the labors of the mission. Still worse was the conduct of +Boers who had pushed their way into the Bechuana country. Their theory +was very simple: "We are the people of God, and the heathen are given to +us for an inheritance." Of this inheritance they proceeded to make +the most. They compelled the natives to work for them without pay, in +consideration of the privilege of living in "their country". They made +regular forays, carrying off the women and children as slaves. They were +cowardly as well as brutal, compelling friendly tribes to accompany +them on their excursions, putting them in front as a shield, and coolly +firing over their heads, till the enemy fled in despair, leaving their +women, children, and cattle as a prey. + +So long as fire-arms could be kept from the natives the Boers were sure +of having it all their own way. But traders came in the train of the +missionaries, and sold guns and powder to the Bechuanas. Sechele's +tribe procured no less than five muskets. The Boers were alarmed, and +determined to drive missionaries and traders from the country. + +In course of time Mr. Livingstone became convinced that Bibles and +preaching were not all that was necessary. Civilization must accompany +Christianization; and commerce was essential to civilization; for +commerce, more speedily than any thing else, would break down the +isolation of the tribes, by making them mutually dependent upon and +serviceable to each other. + +It was well known that northward, beyond the desert, lay a great lake, +in the midst of a country rich in ivory and other articles of commerce. +In former years, when rains had been more abundant, the natives had +frequently crossed this desert; and somewhere near the lake dwelt a +famous chief, named Sebituane, who had once lived on friendly terms +in the neighborhood of Sechele, who was anxious to renew the old +acquaintance. Mr. Livingstone determined to open intercourse with this +region, in spite of the threats and opposition of the Boers. + +So the missionary became a traveler and explorer. While laying his plans +and gathering information, the opportune arrival of Messrs. Oswell and +Murray, two wealthy Englishmen who had become enamored with African +hunting, enabled him to undertake the proposed expedition, Mr. Oswell +agreeing to pay the guides, who were furnished by Sechele. + +This expedition, which resulted in the discovery of Lake Ngami, set out +from the missionary station at Kolobeng on the 1st of June, 1849. +The way lay across the great Kalahari desert, seven hundred miles in +breadth. This is a singular region. Though it has no running streams, +and few and scanty wells, it abounds in animal and vegetable life. Men, +animals, and plants accommodate themselves singularly to the scarcity of +water. Grass is abundant, growing in tufts; bulbous plants abound, among +which are the 'leroshua', which sends up a slender stalk not larger than +a crow quill, with a tuber, a foot or more below the surface, as large +as a child's head, consisting of a mass of cellular tissue filled with +a cool and refreshing fluid; and the 'mokuri', which deposits under +ground, within a circle of a yard from its stem, a mass of tubers of +the size of a man's head. During years when the rains are unusually +abundant, the Kalahari is covered with the 'kengwe', a species of +water-melon. Animals and men rejoice in the rich supply; antelopes, +lions, hyenas, jackals, mice, and men devour it with equal avidity. + +The people of the desert conceal their wells with jealous care. They +fill them with sand, and place their dwellings at a distance, that their +proximity may not betray the precious secret. The women repair to the +wells with a score or so of ostrich shells in a bag slung over their +shoulders. Digging down an arm's-length, they insert a hollow reed, with +a bunch of grass tied to the end, then ram the sand firmly around the +tube. The water slowly filters into the bunch of grass, and is sucked +up through the reed, and squirted mouthful by mouthful into the shells. +When all are filled, the women gather up their load and trudge homeward. + +Elands, springbucks, koodoos, and ostriches somehow seem to get along +very well without any moisture, except that contained in the grass which +they eat. They appear to live for months without drinking; but whenever +rhinoceroses, buffaloes, or gnus are seen, it is held to be certain +proof that water exists within a few miles. + +The passage of the Kalahari was effected, not without considerable +difficulty, in two months, the expedition reaching Lake Ngami on the 1st +of August. As they approached it, they came upon a considerable river. + +"Whence does this come?" asked Livingstone. + +"From a country full of rivers," was the reply; "so many that no man can +tell their number, and full of large trees." + +This was the first actual confirmation of the report of the Bakwains +that the country beyond was not the large "sandy plateau" of +geographers. The prospect of a highway capable of being traversed by +boats to an unexplored fertile region so filled the mind of Livingstone +that, when he came to the lake, this discovery seemed of comparatively +little importance. To us, indeed, whose ideas of a lake are formed from +Superior and Huron, the Ngami seems but an insignificant affair. Its +circumference may be seventy or a hundred miles, and its mean depth is +but a few feet. It lies two thousand feet above the level of the sea, +and as much below the southern border of the Kalahari, which slopes +gradually toward the interior. + +Their desire to visit Sebituane, whose residence was considerably +farther in the interior, was frustrated by the jealousy of Lechulatebe, +a chief near the lake, and the expedition returned to the station at +Kolobeng. The attempt was renewed the following year. Mrs. Livingstone, +their three children, and Sechele accompanied him. The lake was reached. +Lechulatebe, propitiated by the present of a valuable gun, agreed to +furnish guides to Sebituane's country; but the children and servants +fell ill, and the attempt was for the time abandoned. + +A third expedition was successful, although the whole party came near +perishing for want of water, and their cattle, which had been bitten by +the 'Tsetse', died. + +This insect--the 'Glossina moritans' of the naturalists--deserves a +special paragraph. It is a brown insect about as large as our common +house-fly, with three or four yellow bars across its hinder part. +A lively, buzzing, harmless-looking fellow is the tsetse. Its bite +produces a slight itching similar to that caused by the mosquito, and +in the case of men and some species of animals no further ill effects +follow. But woe to the horse, the ox, and the dog, when once bitten by +the tsetse. No immediate harm appears; the animal is not startled as by +the gad-fly; but in a few days the eyes and the nose begin to run; the +jaws and navel swell; the animal grazes for a while as usual, but grows +emaciated and weak, and dies, it may be, weeks or months after. When +dissected, the cellular tissue seems injected with air, the fat is green +and oily, the muscles are flabby, the heart is so soft that the finger +may be pushed through it. The antelope and buffalo, the zebra and goat, +are not affected by its bite; while to the ox, the horse, and the dog +it is certain death. The mule and donkey are not troubled by it, nor are +sucking calves, while dogs, though fed upon milk, perish. Such different +effects produced upon animals whose nature is similar, constitute one of +the most curious phenomena in natural history. + +Sebituane, who had heard of the approach of his visitors, came more +than a hundred miles to meet them. He was a tall, wiry, coffee-and-milk +colored man, of five-and-forty. His original home was a thousand miles +to the south, in the Bakwain country, whence he had been driven by the +Griquas a quarter of a century before. He fled northward, fighting his +way, sometimes reduced to the utmost straits, but still keeping his +people together. At length he crossed the desert, and conquered the +country around Lake Ngami; then having heard of white men living on the +west coast, he passed southwestward into the desert, hoping to be able +to open intercourse with them. There suffering from the thirst, he +came to a small well; the water was not sufficient for his men and his +cattle; one or the other must perish; he ordered the men to drink, for +if they survived they could fight for more cattle. In the morning his +cattle were all gone, and he returned to the north. Here a long course +of warfare awaited him, but in the end he triumphed over his enemies, +and established himself for a time on the great river Zambesi. Haunted +with a longing for intercourse with the whites, he proposed to descend +the river to the eastern coast. He was dissuaded from this purpose by +the warnings of a native prophet. "The gods say, Go not thither!" he +cried; then turning to the west, "I see a city and a nation of black +men--men of the water; their cattle are red; thine own tribe are +perishing, and will all be consumed; thou wilt govern black men, and +when thy warriors have captured the red cattle, let not their owners be +killed; they are thy future tribe; let them be spared to cause thee to +build." So Sebituane went westward, conquered the blacks of an immense +region, spared the lives of the men, and made them his subjects, ruling +them gently. His original people are called the Makololo; the subject +tribes are styled Makalaka. + +Sebituane, though the greatest warrior in the south, always leading his +men to battle in person, was still anxious for peace. He had heard of +cannon, and had somehow acquired the idea that if he could only procure +one he might live in quiet. He received his visitors with much favor. +"Your cattle have all been bitten by the tsetse," he said, "and will +die; but never mind, I will give you as many as you want." He offered +to conduct them through his country that they might choose a site for a +missionary station. But at this moment he fell ill of an inflammation of +the lungs, from which he soon died. + +"He was," writes Mr. Livingstone, "the best specimen of a native chief +I ever met; and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the +world of which he had just heard when he was called away, and to realize +somewhat of the feeling of those who pray for the dead. The deep, dark +question of what is to become of such as he must be left where we find +it, believing that assuredly the Judge of all the earth will do right." + +Although he had sons, Sebituane left the chieftainship to his daughter +Mamochisane, who confirmed her father's permission that the missionaries +might visit her country. They proceeded a hundred and thirty miles +farther, and were rewarded by the discovery of the great river +Zambesi, the very existence of which, in Central Africa, had never been +suspected. It was the dry season, and the river was at its lowest; +but it was from three to six hundred yards broad, flowing with a deep +current toward the east. + +A grander idea than the mere founding of a missionary station now +developed itself in the mind of Mr. Livingstone. European goods had just +begun to be introduced into this region from the Portuguese settlements +on the coast; at present slaves were the only commodity received in +payment for them. Livingstone thought if a great highway could be +opened, ivory, and the other products of the country, might be bartered +for these goods, and the traffic in slaves would come to an end. + +He therefore resolved to take his family to Cape Town, and thence send +them to England, while he returned alone to the interior, with the +purpose of making his way either to the east or the west coast. + +He reached the Cape in April, 1852, being the first time during eleven +years that he had visited the scenes of civilization, and placed his +family on board a ship bound for England, promising to rejoin them in +two years. + +In June he set out from Cape Town upon that long journey which was to +occupy five years. When he approached the missionary stations in the +interior, he learned that the long-threatened attack by the Boers had +taken place. A letter from Sechele to Mr. Moffat told the story. Thus it +ran: + + +"Friend of my heart's love and of all the confidence of my heart, I +am Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who attacked me, though I had no +guilt with them. They demanded that I should be in their kingdom, and +I refused. They demanded that I should prevent the English and Griquas +from passing. I replied, These are my friends, and I can not prevent +them. They came on Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on Sunday, +and they assented. They began on Monday morning at twilight, and fired +with all their might, and burned the town with fire, and scattered us. +They killed sixty of my people, and captured women, and children, and +men. They took all the cattle and all the goods of the Bakwains; and the +house of Livingstone they plundered, taking away all his goods. Of the +Boers we killed twenty-eight." + + +Two hundred children, who had been gathered into schools, were carried +away as slaves. Mr. Livingstone's library was wantonly destroyed, not +carried away; his stock of medicines was smashed, and his furniture +and clothing sold at auction to defray the expenses of the foray. Mr. +Pretorius, the leader of the marauding party, died not long after, and +an obituary notice of him was published, ending with the words, "Blessed +are the dead who die in the Lord." + +Leaving his desolate home, Livingstone proceeded on his journey. On the +way he met Sechele, who was going, he said, to see the Queen of England. +Livingstone tried to dissuade him. + +"Will not the Queen listen to me?" asked the chief. + +"I believe she would listen, but the difficulty is to get to her." + +"Well, I shall reach her." + +And so they parted. Sechele actually made his way to the Cape, a +distance of a thousand miles, but could get no farther, and returned to +his own country. The remnants of the tribes who had formerly lived among +the Boers gathered around him, and he is now more powerful than ever. + +It is slow traveling in Africa. Livingstone was almost a year in +accomplishing the 1500 miles between Cape Town and the country of the +Makololo. He found that Mamochisane, the daughter of Sebituane, had +voluntarily resigned the chieftainship to her younger brother, Sekeletu. +She wished to be married, she said, and have a family like other women. +The young chief Sekeletu was very friendly, but showed no disposition +to become a convert. He refused to learn to read the Bible, for fear it +might change his heart, and make him content with only one wife, like +Sechele. For his part he wanted at least five. + +Some months were passed in this country, which is described as fertile +and well-cultivated--producing millet, maize, yams, sweet potatoes, +cassava, beans, pumpkins, water-melons, and the like. The sugar-cane +grows plentifully, but the people had never learned the process of +making sugar. They have great numbers of cattle, and game of various +species abounds. On one occasion a troop of eighty-one buffaloes defiled +slowly before their evening fire, while herds of splendid elands stood, +without fear, at two hundred yards' distance. The country is rather +unhealthy, from the mass of decayed vegetation exposed to the torrid +sun. + +After due consideration, Livingstone resolved to make his way to Loanda, +a Portuguese settlement on the western coast. Sekeletu, anxious to open +a trade with the coast, appointed twenty-seven men to accompany the +traveler; and on the 11th of November, 1853, he set out on his journey. + +Three or four small boxes contained all the baggage of the party. The +only provisions were a few pounds of biscuits, coffee, tea, and sugar; +their main reliance being upon the game which they expected to kill, +and, this failing, upon the proceeds of about ten dollars' worth of +beads. They also took with them a few elephants' tusks, which Sekeletu +sent by way of a trading venture. + +The river up which they paddled abounds in hippopotami. These are in +general harmless, though now and then a solitary old bull who has been +expelled from the herd vents his spleen by pitching into every canoe +that passes. Once their canoe was attacked by a female whose calf had +been speared, and nearly overturned. The female carries her young upon +her back, its little round head first appearing above the surface when +she comes up to breathe. + +By the order of the chief the party had been furnished with eight oxen +for riding, and seven intended for slaughter. Some of the troop paddled +the canoes, while others drove the cattle along the bank. + +African etiquette requires that a company of travelers, when they come +in sight of a village, shall seat themselves under a tree, and send +forward a messenger to announce their arrival and state their object. +The chief then gives them a ceremonious reception, with abundance of +speech-making and drumming. It is no easy matter to get away from these +villages, for the chiefs esteem it an honor to have strangers with +them. These delays, and the frequent heavy rains, greatly retarded the +progress of the travelers. + +They had traveled four months, and accomplished half of their journey +before encountering any show of hostility from the tribes through which +they passed. A chief, named Njambi, then demanded tribute for passing +through his country; when this was refused he said that one of +Livingstone's men had spit on the leg of one of his people, and this +crime must be paid for by a fine of a man, an ox, or a gun. This +reasonable demand was likewise refused, and the natives seemed about +to commence hostilities; but changed their minds upon witnessing the +determined attitude of the strangers. Livingstone at last yielded to the +entreaties of his men and gave them an ox, upon the promise that food +should be sent in exchange. The niggardly chief sent them only a small +bag of meal, and two or three pounds of the meat of their own ox. + +From this time they were subject to frequent attempts at extortion. The +last of these was made on the banks of the River Quango, the boundary of +the Portuguese possessions. A Bashinje chief, whose portrait is given +by Mr. Livingstone, made the usual demand of a man, a gun, or an ox, +otherwise they must return the way they came. While negotiations were +in progress the opportune arrival of a Portuguese sergeant freed the +travelers from their troubles. The river was crossed, and once on +Portuguese territory their difficulties were over. + +At Cassange, the frontier settlement, they sold Sekeletu's ivory. The +Makololo, who had been accustomed to give two tusks for one gun, +were delighted at the prices they obtained. For one tusk they got two +muskets, three kegs of powder, large bunches of beads, and calico and +baize enough to clothe all the party. + +On the 31st of May, after more than six months' travel, Livingstone and +his companions reached the Portuguese sea-port of Loanda. The Makololo +were lost in wonder when they first caught sight of the sea. "We marched +along," they said, "believing that what the ancients had told us was +true, that the world has no end; but all at once the world said to us, +I am finished, there is no more of me." Still greater was their wonder +when they beheld the large stone houses of the town. "These are not +huts," they said, "but mountains with caves in them." Livingstone had in +vain tried to make them comprehend a house of two stories. They knew of +no dwellings except their own conical huts, made of poles stuck into the +ground, and could not conceive how one hut could be built on the top of +another, or how people could live in the upper story, with the pointed +roof of the lower one sticking up in the middle of the floor. The +vessels in the harbor were, they said, not canoes, but towns, into which +one must climb by a rope. + +At Loanda Livingstone was attacked by a fever, which reduced him to +a skeleton, and for a while rendered him unable to attend to his +companions. But they managed very well alone. Some went to the forest, +cut firewood, and brought it to town for sale; others unloaded a +coal-vessel in the harbor, at the magnificent wages of a sixpence a day. +The proceeds of their labor were shrewdly invested in cloth and beads +which they would take home with them in confirmation of the astounding +stories they would have to tell; "for," said they, "in coming to the +white man's country, we have accomplished what no other people in the +world could have done; we are the true ancients, who can tell wonderful +things." + +The two years, at the close of which Livingstone had promised to rejoin +his family, had almost expired, and he was offered a passage home +from Loanda. But the great object of his expedition was only partially +attained. Though he had reached the west coast in safety, he had found +that the forests, swamps, and rivers must render a wagon-road from the +interior impracticable. He feared also that his native attendants would +not be able to make their way alone back to their own country, through +the unfriendly tribes. So he resolved, feeble as he was, to return to +Sekeletu's dominions, and thence proceed to the eastern coast. + +In September he started on his return journey, bearing considerable +presents for Sekeletu from the Portuguese, who were naturally anxious +to open a trade with the rich ivory region of the interior. The Board of +Public Works sent a colonel's uniform and a horse, which unfortunately +died on the way. The merchants contributed specimens of all their +articles of trade, and a couple of donkeys, which would have a special +value on account of their immunity from the bite of the tsetse. The men +were made happy by the acquisition of a suit of European clothes and a +gun apiece, in addition to their own purchases. + +In the Bashinje country he again encountered hostile demonstrations. One +chief, who came riding into the camp upon the shoulders of an attendant, +was especially annoying in his demands for tribute. Another, who had +quarreled with one of Livingstone's attendants, waylaid and fired upon +the party. Livingstone, who was ill of a fever, staggered up to the +chief, revolver in hand. The sight of the six mouths of that convenient +implement gaping at his breast wrought an instant revolution in his +martial ideas; he fell into a fit of trembling, protesting that he had +just come to have a quiet talk, and wanted only peace. + +These Bashinje have more of the low negro character and physiognomy than +any tribe encountered by Livingstone. Their color is a dirty black; they +have low foreheads and flat noses, artificially enlarged by sticks +run through the septum, and file their teeth down to a point. A little +further to the south the complexion of the natives is much lighter, +and their features are strikingly like those depicted upon the Egyptian +monuments, the resemblance being still further increased by some of +their modes of wearing the hair. Livingstone indeed affirms that the +Egyptian paintings and sculptures present the best type of the general +physiognomy of the central tribes. + +The return journey was still slower than the advance had been; and it +was not till late in the summer of 1855 that they reached the villages +of the Makololo, having been absent more than eighteen months. They were +received as men risen from the dead, for the diviners had declared that +they had perished long ago. The returned adventurers were the lions of +the day. They strutted around in their gay European suits, with their +guns over their shoulders, to the abounding admiration of the women and +children, calling themselves Livingstone's "braves", who had gone over +the whole world, turning back only when there was no more land. To be +sure they returned about as poor as they went, for their gun and their +one suit of red and white cotton were all that they had saved, every +thing else having been expended during their long journey. "But never +mind," they said; "we have not gone in vain, you have opened a path for +us." + +There was one serious drawback from their happiness. Some of their +wives, like those of the companions of Ulysses of old, wearied by their +long absence, had married other husbands. They took this misfortune much +to heart. "Wives," said one of the bereaved husbands, "are as plenty as +grass--I can get another; but," he added bitterly, "if I had that fellow +I would slit his ears for him." Livingstone did the best he could for +them. He induced the chiefs to compel the men who had taken the only +wife of any one to give her up to her former husband. Those--and they +were the majority--who had still a number left, he consoled by telling +them that they had quite as many as was good for them--more than he +himself had. So, undeterred by this single untoward result of their +experiment, the adventurers one and all set about gathering ivory for +another adventure to the west. + +Livingstone had satisfied himself that the great River Leeambye, up +which he had paddled so many miles on his way to the west, was identical +with the Zambesi, which he had discovered four years previously. The two +names are indeed the same, both meaning simply "The River", in different +dialects spoken on its banks. This great river is an object of wonder to +the natives. They have a song which runs, + + "The Leeambye! Nobody knows + Whence it comes, and whither it goes." + +Livingstone had pursued it far up toward its source, and knew whence it +came; and now he resolved to follow it down to the sea, trusting that +it would furnish a water communication into the very heart of the +continent. + +It was now October--the close of the hot season. The thermometer stood +at 100 Deg. in the shade; in the sun it sometimes rose to 130 Deg. +During the day the people kept close in their huts, guzzling a kind +of beer called 'boyola', and seeming to enjoy the copious perspiration +which it induces. As evening set in the dance began, which was kept up +in the moonlight till long after midnight. Sekeletu, proud of his new +uniform, and pleased with the prospect of trade which had been opened, +entertained Livingstone hospitably, and promised to fit him out for his +eastern journey as soon as the rains had commenced, and somewhat cooled +the burning soil. + +He set out early in November, the chief with a large body of retainers +accompanying him as far as the Falls of Mosioatunye, the most remarkable +piece of natural scenery in all Africa, which no European had ever seen +or heard of. The Zambesi, here a thousand yards broad, seems all at +once to lose itself in the earth. It tumbles into a fissure in the hard +basaltic rock, running at a right-angle with the course of the stream, +and prolonged for thirty miles through the hills. This fissure, hardly +eighty feet broad, with sides perfectly perpendicular, is fully a +hundred feet in depth down to the surface of the water, which shows like +a white thread at its bottom. The noise made by the descent of such +a mass of water into this seething abyss is heard for miles, and five +distinct columns of vapor rise like pillars of smoke to an +enormous height. Hence the Makololo name for the cataract, 'Mosi oa +tunye'--"Smoke sounds there!"--for which Livingstone, with questionable +taste, proposes to substitute the name of "Victoria Falls"--a change +which we trust the world will not sanction. + +From these falls the country gradually ascends toward the east, the +river finding its way by this deep fissure through the hills. Every +thing shows that this whole region, for hundreds of miles, was once +the bed of an immense fresh-water lake. By some convulsion of nature, +occurring at a period geologically recent, this fissure was formed, and +through it the lake was drained, with the exception of its deepest part, +which constitutes the present Lake Ngami. Similar indications exist of +the former existence of other immense bodies of water, which have in +like manner been drained by fissures through the surrounding elevations, +leaving shallow lakes at the lowest points. Such are, undoubtedly, Tsad +at the north, Ngami at the south, Dilolo at the west, and Taganyika and +Nyanja, of which we have only vague reports, at the east. This great +lake region of former days seems to have extended 2500 miles from north +to south, with an average breadth, from east to west, of 600 or 700 +miles. + +The true theory of the African continent is, that it consists of +a well-watered trough, surrounded on all sides by an elevated rim, +composed in part of mountain ranges, and in part of high sandy deserts. +Livingstone, who had wrought out this theory from his own personal +observations, was almost disappointed when, on returning to England, +he found that the same theory had been announced on purely geological +grounds by Sir Roderick Murchison, the same philosopher who had averred +that gold must exist in Australia, long before the first diggings had +been discovered there. + +Sekeletu had commissioned Livingstone, when he reached his own country, +to purchase for him a sugar-mill, a good rifle, different kinds of +clothing, brass wire, beads, and, in a word, "any other beautiful thing +he might see," furnishing him with a considerable quantity of ivory to +pay for them. Their way lay through the country of the Batoka, a fierce +tribe who had a few years before attempted "to eat up" Sebituane, with +ill success, for he dispersed them and took away their cattle. Their +country, once populous, is now almost desolate. At one of their ruined +villages Livingstone saw five-and-forty human skulls bleaching upon +stakes stuck in the ground. In the old times the chiefs used to vie with +each other as to whose village should be ornamented with the greatest +number of these ghastly trophies; and a skull was the most acceptable +present from any one who wished to curry favor with a chief. The Batoka +have an odd custom of knocking out the front teeth from the upper jaw. +The lower ones, relieved from the attrition and pressure of the upper, +grow long and protruding, forcing the lower lip out in a hideous manner. +They say that they wish their mouths to be like those of oxen, and not +like those of zebras. No young Batoka female can lay any claim to being +a belle until she has thus acquired an "ox-mouth". "Look at the great +teeth!" is the disparaging criticism made upon those who neglect to +remove their incisors. The women wear a little clothing, but the men +disdain even the paradisiacal fig-leaf, and go about in a state of +absolute nudity. Livingstone told them that he should come back some +day with his family, when none of them must come near without at least +putting on a bunch of grass. They thought it a capital joke. Their mode +of salutation is to fling themselves flat on their backs, and roll from +side to side, slapping the outside of their naked thighs. + +The country abounds with game. Buffaloes and zebras by the hundred +grazed on the open spaces. At one time their procession was interrupted +by three buffaloes who came dashing through their ranks. Livingstone's +ox set off at a furious gallop. Looking back, he saw one of his men +flung up into the air by a toss from one of the beasts, who had carried +him on his horns for twenty yards before giving the final pitch. The +fellow came down flat on his face, but the skin was not pierced, and no +bone was broken. His comrades gave him a brisk shampooing, and in a week +he was as well as ever. + +The border country passed, the natives grew more friendly, and gladly +supplied all the wants of the travelers. About the middle of December, +when their journey was half over, they came upon the first traces of +Europeans--a deserted town, a ruined church, and a broken bell inscribed +with a cross and the letters I. H. S., but bearing no date. A few days +after they met a man wearing a hat and jacket. He had come from the +Portuguese settlement of Tete, far down the river. From him they learned +that a war was going on below, between the Portuguese and the natives. +A chief, named Mpende, showed signs of hostility. Livingstone's men, +who had become worn and ragged by their long journey, rejoiced at the +prospect of a fight. "Now," said they, "we shall get corn and clothes in +plenty. You have seen us with elephants, but you don't know what we can +do with men." After a while two old men made their appearance, to +find out who the strangers were. "I am a Lekoa (Englishman)," said +Livingstone. "We don't know that tribe," they replied; "we suppose you +are a Mozunga (Portuguese)." Upon Livingstone's showing them his long +hair and the white skin of his bosom they exclaimed, "We never saw so +white a skin as that. You must be one of that tribe that loves the black +men." Livingstone eagerly assured him that such was the case. Sekwebu, +the leader of his men, put in a word: "Ah, if you only knew him as well +as we do, who have lived with him, you would know how highly he values +your friendship; and as he is a stranger he trusts in you to direct +him." The chief, convinced that he was an Englishman, received the party +hospitably and forwarded them on their way. + +The frequent appearance of English goods showed that they were +approaching the coast, and not long afterward Livingstone met a couple +of native traders, from whom, for two small tusks, he bought a quantity +of American cotton marked "Lawrence Mills, Lowell", which he distributed +among his men. + +For another month they traveled slowly on through a fertile country, +abounding in animal life, bagging an elephant or a buffalo when short of +meat. Lions are numerous, but the natives, believing that the souls of +their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these animals, into which they +also have the power, when living, of transforming themselves at will, +never kill them. When they meet a lion they salute him by clapping their +hands--a courtesy which his Highness frequently returns by making a meal +of them. + +In this region the women are decidedly in the ascendant. The bridegroom +is obliged to come to the village of the bride to live. Here he must +perform certain services for his mother-in-law, such as keeping her +always supplied with fire-wood. Above all things, he must always, when +in her presence, sit with his legs bent under him, it being considered a +mark of disrespect to present his feet toward her. If he wishes to leave +the village, he must not take his children with him; they belong to his +wife, or, rather, to her family. He can, however, by the payment of a +certain number of cattle, "buy up" his wife and children. When a man is +desired to perform any service he always asks his wife's consent; if she +refuses, no amount of bribery or coaxing will induce him to disobey her. + +On the evening of March 2, Livingstone, tired and hungry, came within +eight miles of the Portuguese settlement of Tete. He sent forward the +letters of recommendation which he had received from the Portuguese on +the other side of the continent. Before daylight the following morning +he was aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers, who brought +the materials for a civilized breakfast--the first of which he had +partaken since he left Loanda, eighteen months before. "It was," he +says, "the most refreshing breakfast of which I ever partook." + +Tete stands on the Zambesi, three hundred miles from its mouth. The +commandant received Livingstone kindly, supplied his men with provisions +for immediate use, gave them land upon which to raise future supplies, +and granted them permission to hunt elephants in the neighborhood on +their own account. Before long they had established a brisk trade +in fire-wood, as their countrymen had done at Loanda. They certainly +manifested none of the laziness which has been said to be characteristic +of the African races. Thirty elephant tusks remained of those forwarded +by Sekeletu. Ten of these were sold for cotton cloth for the men. The +others were deposited with the authorities, with directions that in case +Livingstone should never return they should be sold, and the proceeds +given to the men. He told them that death alone should prevent him from +coming back. "Nay, father," said the men, "you will not die; you will +return, and take us back to Sekeletu." + +He remained at Tete a month, waiting for the close of the sickly season +in the low delta at the mouths of the river, and then descended to the +Portuguese town of Kilimane. Here he remained six weeks, when an English +vessel arrived with supplies and money for him. Two of his attendants +only had come down the river. They begged hard to be allowed to +accompany him to England. In vain Livingstone told them that they would +die if they went to so cold a country. "That is nothing," said one; "let +me die at your feet." He at last decided to take with him Sekwebu, the +leader of the party, to whose good sense, bravery, and tact he owed much +of his success. The sea-waves rose high, as the boat conveyed them to +the ship. Sekwebu, who had never seen a larger body of water than the +shallow Lake Ngami, was terrified. + +"Is this the way you go?" he inquired. + +"Yes; don't you see it is?" replied Livingstone, encouragingly. + +When Livingstone reached his countrymen on the ship he could scarcely +speak his native language; the words would not come at his call. He +had spoken it but little for thirteen years; and for three and a half, +except for a short time at Loanda, not at all. + +Sekwebu became a great favorite on shipboard, but he was bewildered +by the crowd of new ideas that rushed upon his mind. "What a strange +country this is," he said, "all water!" When they reached Mauritius, +he became insane, and tried to jump overboard. Livingstone's wife had, +during her visit to their country, become a great favorite with the +Makololo, who called her 'Ma Robert'--"Robert's Mother"--in honor of her +young son. + +"Come, Sekwebu," said Livingstone, "we are going to Ma Robert." This +struck a chord in his bosom. + +"Oh yes," said he; "where is she? Where is Robert?" And for the moment +he seemed to recover. + +But in the evening a fresh accession of insanity occurred. He attempted +to spear one of the crew, and then leaped overboard, and, though he +could swim well, pulled himself down, hand over hand, by the cable. His +body was never recovered. + +From Mauritius Livingstone sailed for England, which he reached on the +12th of December, 1856--four and a half years after he had parted from +his family at Cape Town. + +He was received with unwonted honors. The President of the Royal +Geographical Society, at a special meeting held to welcome him, formally +invited him to give to the world a narrative of his travels. Some +knavish booksellers paid him the less acceptable compliment of putting +forth spurious accounts of his adventures, one at least of which has +been republished in this country. Livingstone, so long accustomed to a +life of action, found the preparation of his book a harder task than he +had imagined. "I think," he says, "that I would rather cross the African +continent again than undertake to write another book." We trust that +he will yet do both. He would indeed have set out on another African +journey nearly a year ago to conduct his faithful Makololo attendants +back to their own country, had not the King of Portugal relieved him +from all anxiety on their account, by sending out directions that they +should be supported at Tete until his return. + +Our abstract does, at best, but scanty justice to the most interesting, +as well as most valuable, of modern works of travel. It has +revolutionized our ideas of African character as well as of African +geography. It shows that Central Africa is peopled by tribes barbarous, +indeed, but far from manifesting those savage and degrading traits which +we are wont to associate with the negro race. In all his long pilgrimage +Livingstone saw scarcely a trace of the brutal rites and bloody +superstitions of Dahomey and Ashanti. The natives every where long for +intercourse with the whites, and eagerly seek the products of civilized +labor. In regions where no white men had ever been seen the cottons +of Lowell and Manchester, passed from tribe to tribe, are even now the +standard currency. Civilized nations have an equal interest in opening +intercourse with these countries, for they are capable of supplying +those great tropical staples which the industrious temperate zones must +have, but can not produce. Livingstone found cotton growing wild all +along his route from Loanda to Kilimane; the sugar-cane flourishes +spontaneously in the valley of "The River"; coffee abounds on the west +coast; and indigo is a weed in the delta of the Zambesi. Barth also +finds these products abundant on the banks of the Benuwe and Shari, and +around Lake Tsad. The prevalent idea of the inherent laziness of the +Africans must be abandoned, for, scattered through the narratives +of both these intrepid explorers are abundant testimonies of the +industrious disposition of the natives. + +Livingstone, as befits his profession, regards his discoveries from a +religious stand-point. "The end of the geographical feat," he says, "is +the beginning of the missionary enterprise." But he is a philosopher as +well as a preacher, recognizing as true missionaries the man of science +who searches after hidden truths, the soldier who fights against +tyranny, the sailor who puts down the slave-trade, and the merchant who +teaches practically the mutual dependence of the nations of the earth. +His idea of missionary labor looks to this world as well as the next. +Had the Bakwains possessed rifles as well as Bibles--had they raised +cotton as well as attended prayer-meetings--it would have been better +for them. He is clearly of the opinion that decent clothing is of more +immediate use to the heathen than doctrinal sermons. "We ought," he +says, "to encourage the Africans to cultivate for our markets, as the +most effectual means, next to the Gospel, of their elevation." His +practical turn of mind suffers him to present no fancy pictures of +barbarous nations longing for the Gospel. His Makololo friends, indeed, +listened respectfully when he discoursed of the Saviour, but were all +earnestness when he spoke of cotton cloths and muskets. Sekeletu favored +the missionary, not as the man who could give him Bibles and tracts, +but as the one by whose help he hoped to sell his ivory for a rifle, a +sugar-mill, and brass wire. + +Livingstone's missionary scheme is accommodated to the actual state of +things. It rests quite as much upon traders as preachers. He would open +a communication by the Zambesi to the heart of the continent. Upon the +healthy, elevated region overlooking the low, fertile basin he would +establish trading posts, supplied with European wares. We can not wonder +that the directors of the Missionary Society looked coldly upon this +scheme, and wrote to him that they were "restricted in their power of +aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the Gospel;" +nor can we regret that Livingstone, feeling his old love of independence +revive, withdrew from his connection with the Society, for the purpose +of carrying out his own plans. With all respect for the worthy persons +who manage missionary societies, we can not but believe that the man who +led so large a party across the African continent will accomplish more +for the good cause when working out his own plans than he would do by +following out their ideas. + + + + +Appendix.--Notes to etext. + + + +Words: + + +The names Loanda and Zambesi are given in most modern texts as Luanda +and Zambezi. + +In three cases, the spelling used in the original was distracting enough +that it has been changed: musquito > mosquito, hachshish > hashish, and +nomade > nomad. + +In three other cases, two variant spellings of a word were used in the +text. These were made uniform in accordance with the modern standard. +They were: water-buck > waterbuck, Mosambique > Mozambique, and imbody > +embody. + +Other notes on terms: Livingstone often refers to ground-nuts--this is +the British term for a peanut. Mutokwane ('Cannabis sativa') must be +some variety of marijuana. + + + +Symbols: + + +As the symbols for the British Pound (a crossed L), Degrees (small +circle, in the upper half of the line of text), and fractions cannot be +represented in ASCII, the following standards have been used: + +Pounds: written out, and capitalized, AFTER the number of pounds, rather +than before it. Hence "L20" becomes 20 Pounds. (where L represents the +Pound symbol.) + +Degrees, Minutes, Seconds: "Degrees", when used alone, is either spelled +out or abbreviated "Deg."--but is always capitalized where it replaces +the symbol. When a location is given with a combination of degrees and +minutes, or degrees, minutes, and seconds, [d] is used to denote +the symbol for degrees, ['] represents minutes, and ["] represents +seconds--these latter two are the common symbols, or at least as similar +as ASCII can represent. For an example, lat. 9d 37' 30" S. would be +latitude 9 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds south. All temperatures given +are in Fahrenheit. + +Fractions: Where whole numbers and fractions are combined, the whole +number is separated from the fraction with a dash. For example, in +Chapter 21: 16 ounces and 2-19/20 drams would translate as 16 ounces +and two-and-nineteen-twentieths drams. Incidentally, Livingstone uses +British measurements, which sometimes differ from the American. + + + +Corrected Errors: + +Errors in the original text were corrected when the context presented +compelling evidence that there was in fact an error. When possible, +proper names were checked against the index for extra surety. + + + Chapter 2, "All around Scroti the country is perfectly flat" changed to + "All around Serotli". + + Chapter 2, "one species of plants" changed to "one species of plant". + + Chapter 3, "a fire specimen of arboreal beauty" changed to "a fine + specimen". + + Chapter 12, "till a stranger, happening to come to visit Santaru" + changed to "to visit Santuru". + + Chapter 14, "the orders of Sekeletu as as to our companions" changed to + "the orders of Sekeletu as to our companions". + + Chapter 14, "while Mashuana plants the poles" changed to "while + Mashauana". + + Chapter 15, "In other cases I have known them turn back" changed to "In + other cases I have known them to turn back". + + Chapter 20, p. 438, "to make a canal from Calumbo to Loando" changed + to "from Calumbo to Loanda". (Loando, while correct, is otherwise only + given in the full Portuguese name.) + + Chapter 26, "we saw the Batoko" changed to "we saw the Batoka". + + Chapter 28, "with whom Lekwebu had lived" changed to "with whom + Sekwebu". + + + +Accented Characters in Words: + + +To maintain an easily searchable text, accented or special characters +have been discarded. The following is a pretty complete list of the +words in the text which were originally accented. They appear more or +less in the order in which they first appeared with the accent--often +the accents were dropped in the original. In each case, the accent +follows the appropriate letter, the "ae" and "oe" combinations are +represented as (ae) and (oe), [\], [/], [~], [^] and [-] represent +the accent that looks like them which would appear above the preceding +letter. [=] represents an accent that looks like the bottom half of +a circle, also appearing above the letter, ["] is an umlaut, and [,] +represents a cedilla. + + + Athen(ae)um > Athenaeum + Bakwa/in > Bakwain + Mabo/tsa > Mabotsa + Bechua/na > Bechuana + Seche/le > Sechele + Chonua/ne > Chonuane + Bakalaha/ri > Bakalahari + hy(ae)na > hyaena + tse/tse > tsetse + Banajo/a > Banajoa + man(oe)uvre > manoeuvre + Bato-ka > Batoka + Loye/lo > Loyelo + Mamba/ri > Mambari + mopane/ > mopane + Balo=nda > Balonda + Sekele/nke > Sekelenke + Mane/nko > Manenko + Sheako/ndo > Sheakondo + Nyamoa/na > Nyamoana + Kolimbo/ta > Kolimbota + Samba/nza > Sambanza + N~uana Loke/ > Nyuana Loke + larv(ae) > larvae + de/tour > detour + cicad(ae) > cicadae + Korwe/ > Korwe + Moni/na > Monina + Bonya/i > Bonyai + Conge/ > Conge + Bua/ze > Buaze + Leche/ > Leche + Bakue/na > Bakuena + Shokua/ne > Shokuane + Lepelo/le > Lepelole + Litubaru/ba > Litubaruba + Baka/a > Bakaa + Bamangwa/to > Bamangwato + Makala/ka > Makalaka + Letlo/che > Letloche + n~ami > nyami + n~aka > nyaka + Matebe/le > Matebele + Seko/mi > Sekomi + Baka/tla > Bakatla + Meba/lwe > Mebalwe + Batla/pi > Batlapi + Bata/u > Batau + Bano/ga > Banoga + Mokwa/in > Mokwain + Leko/a > Lekoa + Mako/a > Makoa + Mochoase/le > Mochoasele + Limpo/po > Limpopo + Bangwake/tse > Bangwaketse + Sebitua/ne > Sebituane + Makolo/lo > Makololo + Kalaha/ri > Kalahari + mimos(ae) > mimosae + vertebr(ae) > vertebrae + thoae/la > thoaela + tsesse/be > tsessebe + Mosilika/tze > Mosilikatze + Batlo/kua > Batlokua + Bahu/keng > Bahukeng + Bamose/tla > Bamosetla + Manta/tees > Mantatees + Ka-ke > Kake + Matlame/tlo > Matlametlo + (Ae)sop > Aesop + cucurbitace(ae) > cucurbitaceae + Leroshu/a > Leroshua + Ke-me > Keme + simi(ae) > simiae + du"iker > duiker + Mona/to > Monato + Boatlana/ma > Boatlanama + Lope/pe > Lopepe + Mashu"e > Mashue + Lobota/ni > Lobotani + leguminos(ae) > leguminosae + Ramoto/bi > Ramotobi + Mohotlua/ni > Mohotluani + "Kia itume/la" > "Kia itumela" + "Kia time/la" > "Kia timela" + "Ki time/tse" > "Ki timetse" + Moko/ko > Mokoko + Mathulua/ni > Mathuluani + Mokokonya/ni > Mokokonyani + Lotlaka/ni > Lotlakani + Ngabisa/ne > Ngabisane + Bako/ba > Bakoba + Tzo- > Tzo + Bataua/na > Batauana + Lechulate/be > Lechulatebe + More/mi > Moremi + moheto/lo > mohetolo + kuabao-ba > kuabaoba + tumo-go > tumogo + ife/ > ife + Bakuru/tse > Bakurutse + Ntwe/twe > Ntwetwe + Matlomagan-ya/na > Matlomagan-yana + Sichua/na > Sichuana + Maha/be > Mahabe + aroid(oe)a > aroidoea + Maja/ne > Majane + Moro/a > Moroa + Baro/tse > Barotse + Nalie/le > Naliele + Seshe/ke > Sesheke + e- e- e- > ee ee ee + (ae) (ae) (ae) > ae ae ae + Maha/le > Mahale + Namaga/ri > Namagari + Basu/tu > Basutu + Sikonye/le > Sikonyele + Maka/be > Makabe + Damara/s > Damaras + Bashubi/a > Bashubia + C(ae)sar > Caesar + Kafu/e > Kafue + Tlapa/ne > Tlapane + Ramosi/nii/ > Ramosinii + Baloia/na > Baloiana + Bihe/ > Bihe + tse/pe > tsepe + acme/ > acme + lamell(ae) > lamellae + ngotuane/ > ngotuane + diarrh(oe)a > diarrhoea + natur(ae) > naturae + herni(ae) > herniae + Serina/ne > Serinane + Lesho/nya > Leshonya + ka/ma > kama + ta-ri > tari + formul(ae) > formulae + prote/ge/es > protegees + prim(ae)val > primaeval + lamin(ae) > laminae + lopane/ > lopane + Kandeha/i > Kandehai + Mamochisa/ne > Mamochisane + Mpe/pe > Mpepe + Nokua/ne > Nokuane + "Nsepi/sa" > "Nsepisa" + Banye/ti > Banyeti + boya/loa > boyaloa + o-a/lo > o-alo + bu/za > buza + minuti(ae) > minutiae + Moti/be > Motibe + hypog(oe)a > hypogoea + Bapa/lleng > Bapalleng + Cho- > Cho + Tso- > Tso + "Ho-o-!" > "Ho-o!" + Mako-a > Makoa + Seko-a > Sekoa + Makolo/kue > Makolokue + Bape-ri > Baperi + Bapo- > Bapo + Narie/le > Nariele + giraff(ae) > giraffae + lechwe/s > lechwes + Luambe/ji > Luambeji + Luambe/si > Luambesi + Ambe/zi > Ambezi + Ojimbe/si > Ojimbesi + Zambe/si > Zambesi + Tianya/ne > Tianyane + Lebeo/le > Lebeole + Sisinya/ne > Sisinyane + Molo=iana > Moloiana + "tau e to=na" > "tau e tona" + "Sau e to=na" > "Sau e tona" + Lo=nda > Londa + Ambo=nda > Ambonda + n~ake > nyake + "Kua-!" > "Kua!" + moshe/ba > mosheba + Name/ta > Nameta + Masi/ko > Masiko + Pitsa/ne > Pitsane + Sekobinya/ne > Sekobinyane + Mashaua/na > Mashauana + mogame/tsa > mogametsa + mamo/sho > mamosho + moshomo/sho > moshomosho + Babi/mpe > Babimpe + Mosa/ntu > Mosantu + Mosioatu/nya > Mosioatunya + Sima/h > Simah + Bo=nda > Bonda + Lonko/nye > Lonkonye + leko/to > lekoto + Shinte/ > Shinte + Kabo/mpo > Kabompo + Samoa/na > Samoana + Baloba/le > Balobale + hakite/nwe > hakitenwe + polu/ma > poluma + Matia/mvo > Matiamvo + Monaka/dzi > Monakadzi + Inteme/se > Intemese + Saloi/sho > Saloisho + Scottice\ > Scottice + Mokwa/nkwa > Mokwankwa + "Moka/la a Ma/ma" > "Mokala a Mama" + n~uana Kalueje > nyuana Kalueje + typhoi"deum > typhoideum + loke/sh > lokesh + Soa/na Molo/po > Soana Molopo + Mozi/nkwa > Mozinkwa + Livo/a > Livoa + Chifuma/dze > Chifumadze + Shakatwa/la > Shakatwala + Quende/nde > Quendende + Muata ya/nvo > Muata yanvo + mua/ta > muata + Kange/nke > Kangenke + Moe/ne > Moene + Lo=lo= > Lolo + Lishi/sh > Lishish + Li/ss > Liss + Kalile/me > Kalileme + Ishidi/sh > Ishidish + Molo/ng > Molong + sela/li > selali + Mone/nga > Monenga + Moso/go > Mosogo + Monenga-wo-o- > Monenga-wo-o + Kasimaka/te > Kasimakate + ilo/lo > ilolo + Kate/nde > Katende + Loke/ > Loke + Kalo/mba > Kalomba + Tote/lo > Totelo + Averie/ > Averie + Loze/ze > Lozeze + Kasa/bi > Kasabi + Kalu/ze > Kaluze + Chihune/ > Chihune + Chiho/mbo > Chihombo + Banga/la > Bangala + Chika/pa > Chikapa + Loya/nke > Loyanke + Sakanda/la > Sakandala + Bashinje/ > Bashinje + Babinde/le > Babindele + Kamboe/la > Kamboela + Caba/ngo > Cabango + Qua/ngo > Quango + Sansa/we/ > Sansawe + cyclop(ae)dia > cyclopaedia + Kassanje/ > Kassanje + Catende/ > Catende + via^ > via + Laurence Jose/ Marquis > Laurence Jose Marquis + El(ae)is > Elaeis + Salvador Correa de Sa/ Benevides > Salvador Correa de Sa Benevides + Algoda~o Americana > Algodao Americana + Cercopid(ae) > Cercopidae + graminace(ae) > graminaceae + Pedro Joa~o Baptista > Pedro Joao Baptista + Antonio Jose/ > Antonio Jose + Senhor Grac,a > Senhor Graca + al(ae) > alae + Kama/ue > Kamaue + Sylviad(ae) > Sylviadae + Muanza/nza > Muanzanza + Zaire/ > Zaire + Zere/zere/ > Zerezere + alg(ae) > algae + Tanganye/nka > Tanganyenka + ae"rial > aerial + arac,a > araca + Limbo-a > Limboa + Lofuje/ > Lofuje + Boie/ > Boie + hygie\ne > hygiene + Sekwe/bu > Sekwebu + Ntlarie/ > Ntlarie + Nkwatle/le > Nkwatlele + Moriantsa/ne > Moriantsane + Nampe/ne > Nampene + Leko/ne > Lekone + Seko/te > Sekote + Kala/i > Kalai + "motse/ oa barimo" > "motse oa barimo" + Loye/la > Loyela + Mokwine/ > Mokwine + mane/ko > maneko + motsintse/la > motsintsela + pup(ae) > pupae + Pelop(ae)us > Pelopaeus + Mburu/ma > Mburuma + Nyungwe/ > Nyungwe + Sindese Oale/a > Sindese Oalea + ae"rolites > aerolites + Chowe/ > Chowe + Banya/i > Banyai + Moho/hu > Mohohu + Cho/be > Chobe + Boro/ma > Boroma + Nyampu/ngo > Nyampungo + Katolo/sa > Katolosa + Monomota/pa > Monomotapa + Su/sa > Susa + Nyate/we > Nyatewe + More/na > Morena + Monomoi/zes > Monomoizes + Monemui/ges > Monemuiges + Monomui/zes > Monomuizes + Monomota/pistas > Monomotapistas + Mota/pe > Motape + Babi/sa > Babisa + Bazizu/lu > Bazizulu + Masho/na > Mashona + Moruru/rus > Morururus + Boro/mo > Boromo + Nyako/ba > Nyakoba + moku/ri > mokuri + shekabaka/dzi > shekabakadzi + Loko/le > Lokole + Mazo/e > Mazoe + Te/te > Tete + Te/tte > Tette + hom(oe)opathic > homoeopathic + chrysomelid(ae) > chrysomelidae + Lofu/bu > Lofubu + Revu/bu > Revubu + Morongo/zi > Morongozi + Nyamboro/nda > Nyamboronda + brac,a > braca + Mashi/nga > Mashinga + Shindu/ndo > Shindundo + Missa/la > Missala + Kapa/ta > Kapata + Ma/no > Mano + Ja/wa > Jawa + Panya/me > Panyame + Dambara/ri > Dambarari + Abu/tua > Abutua + Mani/ca > Manica + hypog(ae)a > hypogaea + Kansa/la > Kansala + Luapu/ra > Luapura + Luame/ji > Luameji + Muro/mbo > Murombo + shitakote/ko > shitakoteko + Mpa/mbe > Mpambe + Nya/mpi > Nyampi + Za/mbi > Zambi + e/clat > eclat + pharmacop(oe)ia > pharmacopoeia + Goo- > Go-o + amenorrh(oe)a > amenorrhoea + Inya/kanya/nya > Inyakanyanya + Morumba/la > Morumbala + Nyamo/nga > Nyamonga + Gorongo/zo > Gorongozo + Sofa/la > Sofala + Sabi/a > Sabia + Senhor Ferra~o > Senhor Ferrao + Nje/fu > Njefu + Maza/ro > Mazaro + Baro/ro > Baroro + Lu/abo > Luabo + Muse/lo > Muselo + Nyangu/e > Nyangue + Sen~or > Senor + Aseve/do > Asevedo + Mu/tu > Mutu + Panga/zi > Pangazi + Lua/re > Luare + Likua/re > Likuare + Maiu"do > Maiudo + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Missionary Travels and Researches in +South Africa, by David Livingstone + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1039 *** |