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diff --git a/11203.txt b/11203.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6f54d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/11203.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11751 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical +and Western Coasts of Australia, by Phillip Parker King + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia + Performed between the years 1818 and 1822 + +Author: Phillip Parker King + +Release Date: February 21, 2004 [EBook #11203] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher + + + + +NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY + +OF THE + +INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN + +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + +PERFORMED BETWEEN + +THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822. + +BY + +CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S., + +AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON. + +WITH +AN APPENDIX, +CONTAINING +VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES, +ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS. + +VOLUME 1. + + + +PREFACE. + +THE rapidly-increasing importance to which the English Colonies in +Australia have now arrived, rendering every subject connected with that +extensive continent of the greatest interest, whether in respect to its +geography, or the extraordinary assemblage of its animal and vegetable +productions, has induced me to publish such parts of my Journal as may be +useful to accompany the Atlas of the Charts of the Coast recently +published by the Board of Admiralty. + +One of the results of this voyage has been the occupation of Port +Cockburn, between Melville and Bathurst Islands on the North Coast, and +the formation of an establishment there which cannot fail to be +productive of the greatest benefit to our mercantile communications with +the Eastern Archipelago, as well as to increase the influence and power +of the mother country in the South Pacific and Indian Oceans; and in +contemplating this new extension of her possessions*, I cannot avoid +recalling to mind a curious and prophetic remark of Burton, who, in +alluding to the discoveries of the Spanish navigator Ferdinando de Quiros +(Anno 1612), says: "I would know whether that hungry Spaniard's discovery +of Terra Australis Incognita, or Magellanica, be as true as that of +Mercurius Britannicus, or his of Utopia, or his of Lucinia. And yet, in +likelihood, it may be so; for without all question, it being extended +from the tropick of Capricorn to the circle Antarctick, and lying as it +doth in the temperate zone, cannot chuse but yeeld in time some +flourishing kingdoms to succeeding ages, as America did unto the +Spaniards."** Burton's Anatomy of Melancholy, Part 2 Section 2 Number 3. + +(*Footnote. The distance between Melville Island and Hobart Town in Van +Diemen's Land, the former being the most northern, and the latter the +most southern, establishment under the government of New South Wales, is +more than 2700 miles, and comprises an extent of coast nearly equal to +that of the British possessions in India!) + +(**Footnote. Since the land that Quiros discovered and called Terra del +Espiritu Santo was, at the time Burton wrote, considered to be the +Eastern Coast of New Holland, I am justified in the use I have made of +the above curious passage.) + +Since the return of the Expedition, my time has been occupied in +arranging the narrative, and divesting it of such parts as were neither +calculated to amuse the general reader, nor to give information to the +navigator; but this has been so much impeded by the more important +employment of constructing the Charts of the Survey, as to defer until +the present season the publication of the events of a voyage that was +completed nearly three years ago. + +In addition to the Hydrographical Notices in the Appendix, I have +ventured to insert descriptive catalogues of the few subjects of Natural +History that were collected during the voyage; these were supplied by +some friends, to whom I have in another part of the work endeavoured, +inadequately no doubt, to express my sense of the obligation: but since +that part has been printed, my friend Mr. Brown has submitted some +specimens of the rocks of the western side of the Gulf of Carpentaria, +that were collected by him on the Investigator's voyage, to the +inspection of Doctor Fitton, by which means that gentleman's valuable +communication in the Appendix has been most materially improved. I have, +therefore, taken the present opportunity of acknowledging the readiness +with which this additional information has been supplied, and of offering +Mr. Brown my best thanks. + +It now only remains for me to add, that the views with which these +volumes are illustrated were engraved by Mr. Finden from my own sketches +on the spot: the charts, which are reductions of those in the Admiralty +Atlas, were engraved by Mr. Walker; and the three plates of Natural +History by Mr. Curtis, from drawings made from the specimens by himself, +by Henry C. Field, Esquire, and by Miss M. Field; to each of whom I take +this opportunity of returning my best thanks, and also of bearing +testimony to the correctness with which the respective subjects have been +represented. + +London, March 20th, 1826. + + +TO +THE RIGHT HONOURABLE +THE EARL BATHURST, K.G., +HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE +FOR THE COLONIES, +AND +THE RIGHT HONOURABLE +THE LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE, K.T., +FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY, +THE FOLLOWING +NARRATIVE OF THE SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, +PERFORMED UNDER THEIR LORDSHIPS' JOINT DIRECTIONS AND +FLATTERING COUNTENANCE, +IS, BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED +WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT, +BY THEIR MOST GRATEFUL SERVANT, +PHILLIP PARKER KING. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +VOLUME 1. + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Intended mode of proceeding, and departure from Port Jackson. +Visit Twofold Bay. +Natives seen. +Passage through Bass Strait and along the South Coast to King George the +Third's Sound. +Transactions there. +Voyage to the North-West Cape, and Survey of the Coast between the +North-West Cape and Depuch Island, including the examinations of Exmouth +Gulf, Curlew River, and Dampier's Archipelago. +Loss of Anchors, and Interview with the Natives. +Remarks upon Dampier's account of Rosemary Island, and of the Island upon +which he landed. + + +CHAPTER 2. +Examination of Rowley's Shoals, and Passage to the North Coast. +Survey of Goulburn Islands, Mountnorris and Raffles Bays. +Meet a Malay Fleet, and communicate with one of the Proas. +Explore Port Essington. +Attacked by Natives in Knocker's Bay. +Anchor in Popham Bay. +Visit from the Malays. +Examination of Van Diemen's Gulf, including Sir George Hope's Islands and +Alligator Rivers. +Survey of the Northern Shore of Melville Island, and Apsley Strait. +Interview with the Natives of Luxmore Head. +Procure wood at Port Hurd. +Natives. +Clarence Strait. +Leave the Coast, and arrival at Timor. + + +CHAPTER 3. +Transactions at Coepang. +Procure Water and Refreshments. +Description of the Town and Productions of the Island. +Account of the Trepang Fishery on the coast of New Holland. +Departure from Timor, and return to the North-west Coast. +Montebello Islands, and Barrow Island. +Leave the Coast. +Ship's company attacked with Dysentery. +Death of one of the crew. +Bass Strait, and arrival at Port Jackson. +Review of the Proceedings of the Voyage. + + +CHAPTER 4. +Visit to Van Diemen's Land, and examination of the entrance of Macquarie +Harbour. +Anchor in Pine Cove and cut wood. +Description of the Trees growing there. +Return to the entrance, and water at Outer Bay. +Interview with the Natives, and Vocabulary of their language. +Arrive at Hobart Town, and return to Port Jackson. + + +CHAPTER 5. +Departure from Port Jackson, and commence a running survey of the East +Coast. +Examinations of Port Macquarie and the River Hastings in company with the +Lady Nelson, colonial brig, and assisted by Lieutenant Oxley, R.N., the +Surveyor-general of the Colony. +Leave Port Macquarie. +The Lady Nelson returns with the Surveyor-general to Port Jackson. +Enter the Barrier-reefs at Break-sea Spit. +Discover Rodd's Bay. +Visit the Percy Islands. +Pass through Whitsunday Passage, and anchor in Cleveland Bay. +Wood and water there. +Continue the examination of the East Coast towards Endeavour River; +anchoring progressively at Rockingham Bay, Fitzroy Island, Snapper +Island, and Weary Bay. +Interview with the Natives at Rockingham Bay, and loss of a boat off Cape +Tribulation. +Arrival off Endeavour River. + + +CHAPTER 6. +Transactions at Endeavour River, and intercourse with the Natives. +Examine the River. +Geognostical Remarks. +Leave Endeavour River, and resume the examination of the coast. +Anchor among Howick's Group, and under Flinders' Group. +Explore Princess Charlotte's Bay, and the Islands and Reefs as far as +Cape York, anchoring in the way on various parts of the coast. +The cutter nearly wrecked at Escape River. +Loss of anchor under Turtle Island. +Pass round Cape York and through Torres Strait, by the Investigator's +route. + + +CHAPTER 7. +Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and resume the survey of the North Coast +at Wessel's Islands. +Castlereagh Bay. +Crocodile Islands. +Discovery and examination of Liverpool River. +Natives. +Arrive at Goulburn Island. +Complete wood and water. +Attacked by the natives from the cliffs. +Leave Goulburn Island, and pass round Cape Van Diemen. +Resume the survey of the coast at Vernon's Islands in Clarence Strait. +Paterson Bay. +Peron Island. +Anson Bay. +Mr. Roe examines Port Keats. +Prevented from examining a deep opening round Point Pearce. +Discovery of Cambridge Gulf. +Lacrosse Island. +Natives. +Examination of the Gulf. +Death of one of the crew. +Leave Cambridge Gulf. +Trace the coast to Cape Londonderry. + + +CHAPTER 8. +Examination of the coast between Cape Londonderry and Cape Voltaire, +containing the surveys of Sir Graham Moore's Islands, Eclipse Islands, +Vansittart Bay, Admiralty Gulf, and Port Warrender. +Encounter with the natives of Vansittart Bay. +Leave the coast at Cassini Island for Coepang. +Obliged to bear up for Savu. +Anchor at Zeeba Bay, and interview with the rajah. +Some account of the inhabitants. +Disappointed in not finding water. +Leave Zeeba Bay, and beat back against the monsoon to Coepang. +Complete wood and water, and procure refreshments. +Return to Port Jackson. +Pass the latitude assigned to the Tryal Rocks. +Arrival in Sydney Cove. + + +CHAPTER 9. +Equipment for the third voyage. +Leave Port Jackson. +Loss of bowsprit, and return. +Observations upon the present state of the colony, as regarding the +effect of floods upon the River Hawkesbury. +Re-equipment and final departure. +Visit Port Bowen. +Cutter thrown upon a sandbank. +Interview with the natives, and description of the country about Cape +Clinton. +Leave Port Bowen. +Pass through the Northumberland, and round the Cumberland Islands. +Anchor at Endeavour River. +Summary of observations taken there. +Visit from the natives. +Vocabulary of their language. +Observations thereon in comparing it with Captain Cook's account. +Mr. Cunningham visits Mount Cook. +Leave Endeavour River, and visit Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders and Pelican Island. +Entangled in the reefs. +Haggerston's Island, Sunday Island, and Cairncross Island. +Cutter springs a leak. +Pass round Cape York. +Endeavour Strait. +Anchor under Booby Island. +Remarks upon the Inner and Outer routes through Torres Strait. + + +CHAPTER 10. +Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and anchor at Goulburn's South Island. +Affair with the natives. +Resume the survey of the coast at Cassini Island. +Survey of Montagu Sound, York Sound, and Prince Frederic's Harbour. +Hunter's and Roe's Rivers, Port Nelson, Coronation Islands. +Transactions at Careening Bay. +Repair the cutter's bottom. +General geognostical and botanical observations. +Natives' huts. +Brunswick Bay. +Prince Regent's River. +Leave the coast in a leaky state. +Tryal Rocks, Cloates Island. +Pass round the west and south coasts. +Bass Strait. +Escape from shipwreck. +Botany Bay. +Arrival at Port Jackson. + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +VOLUME 1. + + +VIEW IN RAFFLES BAY, WITH CROKER'S ISLAND IN THE DISTANCE. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +WOODCUT 1: NATIVE OF DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO ON HIS LOG. + +CHART OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WEST COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. +As surveyed in the years 1818 to 1822 by Phillip P. King, R.N. + +VIEW OF SOUTH-WEST BAY. GOULBURN ISLAND. +Watering party attacked by natives. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +VIEW OF INNER HARBOUR, PORT ESSINGTON. +From Spear Point. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES OF ST. ASAPH'S BAY, MELVILLE ISLAND. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +VIEW OF THE ENTRANCE OF PORT MACQUARIE. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +VIEW UP THE RIVER HASTINGS. +At its junction with King's River. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +WOODCUT 2: NATIVES OF ROCKINGHAM BAY IN THEIR CANOE. + +WOODCUT 3: NATIVES OF ENDEAVOUR RIVER IN A CANOE, FISHING. + +WOODCUT 4: MANNER IN WHICH THE NATIVES OF THE EAST COAST STRIKE TURTLE. + +VIEW OF MOUNT COCKBURN AT THE BOTTOM OF CAMBRIDGE GULF. +Taken from the Gut. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +VIEW OF THE ENCAMPMENT IN CAREENING BAY. +Where the Mermaid was repaired. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +WOODCUT 5: HUTS OF THE NATIVES AT CAREENING BAY. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS UPON THE DISCOVERY OF THE TERRA AUSTRALIS INCOGNITA. +INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE EXECUTION OF THE VOYAGE. +PASSAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES. +PURCHASE AND EQUIPMENT OF THE MERMAID. + +Nearly three centuries* have now elapsed since our first knowledge of the +Great South Land, the Terra Australis Incognita of ancient geographers; +and, until within the last century, comparatively little had been done +towards making a minute exploration of its coasts: during the seventeenth +century several voyages were made by different Dutch navigators, from +whom we have the first-recorded description of its shores; but from the +jealous disposition of their East India Company, under whose orders these +voyages were performed, the accounts of them were so concealed, and +consequently lost or destroyed, that few particulars of a detailed nature +have been handed down.** + +(*Footnote. The late Rear-Admiral Burney, in his History of Discoveries +in the South Sea, volume 1 page 380, describes a chart, dated 1542, drawn +by Rotz, in which a coast is continued to the 28th degree of south +latitude; and immediately below the 30th degree, there is the name of +Coste des Herbaiges, answering by an extraordinary coincidence both in +climate and in name to Botany Bay.). + +(**Footnote. In the voyages of Gautier Schouten, published at Amsterdam +in 1708, duodecimo volume 1 page 41 et seq., there is the following +curious account of the wreck of a ship on the coast of New Holland: + +"Il me semble que je ne dois pas omettre ici une histoire, de la +certitude de laquelle on n'eut pas lieu de douter. Des-que la nouvelle +fut venue a Batavia [Anno 1659], que le vaisseau le Dragon, qui venoit de +Hollande aux Indes, avoit fait naufrage sur les cotes d'une Terre +Australe inconnue, on y envoia la flute la Bouee a la Veille, pour +ramener ceux des gens de l'equipage qui auroient pu se sauver, et les +efets qui auroient ete conservez. + +"La flute etant conduite par ceux qui etoient echapez du naufrage dans la +chaloupe, et venus a Batavia en aporter la nouvelle, se rendit au parage +ou le Dragon avoit peri, et alla mouiller l'ancre dans l'endroit qui +parut le plus propre pour son dessein. Aussi tot la chaloupe fut armee +pour aller chercher ceux qui s'etoient sauvez le long du rivage. Elle +s'aprocha d'abord du bris, pardessus lequel les vagues passoient; puis +elle nagea vers le lieu ou l'on avoit dresse des tentes, quand la +chaloupe du vaisseau peri partit, pour ceux qu'elle n'avoit pu recevoir, +et qui devoient attendre la qu'on vint les y prendre. + +"L'equipage etant descendu a terre, trouva les tentes brisees en pieces, +et l'on ne decouvrit pas un seul homme dans tout le pais. La surprise ne +fut pas mediocre. On regarda partout si l'on ne verroit point de traces +qui marquassent qu'on eut construit quelque petit batiment: mais il n'y +avoit ni tarriere, ni hache, ni couteaux, ni cloux, etc. Il n'y avoit ni +ecrit ni indication par ou l'on put conjecturer ce qu'etoient devenus les +gens qu'on avoit la laissez. + +"La chaloupe etant retournee a bord, et aiant annonce cette nouvelle, il +fut resolu que l'on iroit chercher plus avant dans les terres, et le long +du rivage. Pour cet efet on se divisa en plusieurs troupes, et l'on ne +reussit pas mieux que la premiere fois. On eut beau crier, apeller, tirer +des coups de mousquet, tout fut inutile, et je n'ai pas seu qu'on ait +jamais apris ce qu'etoient devenus ces gens-la. + +"On retourna donc au bris, dont on ne put rien tirer, les lames aiant +emporte les bordages, les ecoutilles, et fracasse tout le vaisseau, tant +la mer brise fort en ces parages. Ainsi l'on jugea que le plus expedient +etoit de s'en retourner, puis-qu'on n'avoit rien a pretendre, et qu'on +avoit a craindre les vents forcez et les tempetes, qui selon les +aparences auroient aussi fait perir la flute. Dans ce dessein on alla +faire de l'eau. Ceux qui furent a une petite riviere qu'on avoit vue, +au-lieu de se hater, se promenerent, et coururent en divers endroits. + +"Cependant il s'eleva une si terrible tempete, que la flute fut +contrainte de se mettre au large, ou elle atendit encore quelque tems. +Mais comme la chaloupe ne revenoit point, on jugea qu'elle avoit peri; +si-bien qu'on reprit la route de Batavia, ou l'on fit le raport de ce qui +s'etoit passe. + +"Quand l'orage eut cesse, l'equipage de la chaloupe se rembarqua pour +retourner a bord. 'Mais il ne trouva plus la flute, ni sur la cote, ni au +large. La tristesse ne fut pas moindre que l'etonnement, et l'on ne seut +quel parti prendre. Enfin il fallut retourner a terre, pour n'etre pas +englouti par les flots. Mais on n'avoit point de vivres, et l'on ne +voioit rien dans tout le pais qui put servir de nouriture. Les montagnes +n'etoient que des rochers; les valees etoient de vrais deserts; les +plaines n'etoient que des sables. Le rivage etoit aussi borde de roches, +contre lesquelles la mer brisoit avec d'efroiables mugissemens. + +"Ceux qui etoient la demeurez se trouvoient au nombre de treize hommes, +qui furent bientot fatiguez, afoiblis et attenuez. La faim les pressoit, +le froid et l'humidite les faisoient soufrir, et ils se regardoient comme +condamnez a la mort. Il n'y avoit rien a esperer du bris; les vagues +avoient tout fait rouler ca et la dans la mer. Enfin a force de courir et +de chercher quelque chose qu'ils pussent manger, ils apercurent entre les +rochers qui etoient le long du rivage, de gros limacons, et de plus +petits, qui y venoient de la mer, et dont le gout, qui etoit passable, +parut excellent a des gens affamez. Mais n'aiant point de feu pour les +faire cuire, l'usage continuel qu'ils en firent, commenca de les +incommoder, et ils sentirent bien que ce foible remede ne les empecheroit +pas de mourir dans peu de tems. + +"Enfin ne voiant de toutes parts qu'une mort certaine, ils prirent la +resolution de s'exposer a la merci des flots, dans l'esperance que s'il +ne se presentoit rien de plus favorable pour eux sur la mer que sur la +terre, au moins la mort qu'ils y trouveroient, seroit plus promte, et les +delivreroit plutot de leurs miseres. Cependant ils se flatoient encore de +l'esperance de pouvoir aborder en quelque autre pais, ou il y auroit des +choses propres pour la nourriture des hommes. + +"Ainsi chacun travailla selon ses forces a calfater la chaloupe, a faire +provision de limacons, a remplir des futailles d'eau. Apres cela l'on mit +le batiment a la mer, et l'on quitta ce lieu, ou l'on n'avoit vu que des +deserts arides et des feux folets, et ou il n'y avoit ni betes ni gens. +On perdit bientot de vue ce pais sterile, le second Pilote de la flute +etant parmi cette troupe desolee, et la guidant par le cours du Soleil, +de la Lune et des Etoiles. + +"Cependant ils avoient trois a quatre cents lieues de chemin a faire, +pour terrir a la cote septentrionale de la grande Java. On peut assez +s'imaginer a quelles soufrances ils furent exposez dans un tel batiment, +pendent une telle route, et avec si-peu de vivres, et si-mauvais. Par le +beau tems ils voguoient encore passablement; mais quand la mer etoit +grosse, les lames les couvroient et passoient par-dessus leurs tetes, et +la chaloupe etoit toujours sur le point de se voir submergee. + +"Mais la plus cruelle avanture fut que les limacons se corrompirent, et +il n'y eut plus moien d'en manger, si-bien que pour tout aliment il ne +resta que de l'eau. La nuit il faisoit un froid insuportable, et le jour +on etoit brule des ardeurs du Soleil. Toute esperance de salut sembloit +etre retranchee, et les fatigues, aussi-bien que le manque de nourriture, +avoient entierement epuise les forces de ces infortunes, lors-qu'un matin +ils decouvrirent les montagnes meridionales de la grande Java." + +This ship was probably wrecked in the neighbourhood of Dampier's +Archipelago, near which there is also an account of the loss of a ship +called the Vianen.) + +The first circumstantial account that we have is that of Dampier; who, in +his celebrated Buccaneering Voyage in the year 1688, visited that part of +the North-West Coast, to which the name of Cygnet Bay has been attached: +of this place he gives a faithful and correct account, particularly with +respect to its productions, and the savage and degraded state of its +inhabitants: the same navigator afterwards (in 1699) visited the West and +North-west Coasts in His Majesty's ship Roebuck, in the description of +which he has not only been very minute and particular, but, as far as we +could judge, exceedingly correct. + +Within the last fifty years the labours of Cook, Vancouver, Bligh, +D'Entrecasteaux, Flinders, and Baudin have gradually thrown a +considerable light upon this extraordinary continent, for such it may be +called. Of these and other voyages that were made during the 17th and +18th centuries to various parts of its coasts, an account is given by the +late Captain Flinders, in his introduction to the Investigator's voyage; +in which, and in that able and valuable work of the late Rear-Admiral +Burney, A Chronological Account of Discoveries in the South Sea and +Pacific Ocean, the history of its progressive discovery is amply +detailed. + +It was intended that the whole line of the Australian Coast should have +been examined and surveyed by Captain Flinders; but the disgraceful and +unwarrantable detention of this officer at the Mauritius by the French +Governor, General Decaen, prevented the completion of this project. +Captain Flinders had, however, previously succeeded in making a most +minute and elaborate survey of the whole extent of the South coast, +between Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait; of the East Coast, from Cape Howe +to the Northumberland Islands; of the passage through Torres Strait; and +of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +The French expedition, under Commodore Baudin, had in the mean time +visited some few parts of the West Coast, and skirted the islands which +front the North-west Coast, without landing upon, and indeed scarcely +seeing, any part of the mainland. The whole of the north, the north-west, +and the western shores remained, therefore, to be explored; and in the +year 1817, among the numerous voyages of survey and discovery upon which +a part of the navy of Great Britain was so honourably and so usefully +employed, these Coasts of Australia were not forgotten. An expedition for +the purpose of completing the survey of its North and North-west Coast +was planned, under the joint direction of the Lords Commissioners of the +Admiralty, and the Secretary of State for the Colonies, to the command of +which I had the honour of being appointed. + +The arrangements for providing me with a vessel and crew were made by the +latter department; and the Governor of New South Wales was instructed to +give up to my use any vessel in the colonial marine establishment that +should be deemed capable of performing the service; or, in the event of +there being none fit for the purpose, to purchase any suitable one that +might be offered for sale. + +For my guidance I received the following instructions from the Admiralty +and the Colonial Department:-- + +Admiralty Office, 4th February, 1817. + +SIR, + +My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty being informed of the +arrangements of Earl Bathurst, His Majesty's principal Secretary of State +for the Colonial Department, for employing you in a survey of the +unexplored parts of the Coast of New South Wales, have commanded me to +express their concurrence therein, and to convey to you the following +instructions, to which you are to conform yourself, in addition to those +which you may receive from the Secretary of State. + +The arrangements for providing you with a proper vessel and crew, and +other necessaries for the prosecution of the service having been made by +the Colonial Department, my Lords have no directions to give you on these +subjects, but to recommend you in the conduct and discipline of the +vessel which may be intrusted to your care, to conform, as far as may be +practicable, to the established usages of the navy, and to the +regulations for preserving health, cleanliness, and good order, which +have been established in His Majesty's ships when employed in Voyages of +Discovery. + +In order to assist you in the care and use of the timekeepers and +instruments with which their Lordships have directed the Hydrographer of +this department to furnish you, and to follow your orders in all other +particulars relating to the service, my Lords have directed Messrs. +Frederick Bedwell and John Septimus Roe, two young gentlemen, who have +been recommended to them as peculiarly fitted to be of use to you, and +for whose appointment you have expressed your wishes, to accompany you +and to be under your command. + +The principal object of your mission is to examine the hitherto +unexplored Coasts of New South Wales, from Arnhem Bay, near the western +entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, westward and southward as far as the +North-west Cape; including the opening, or deep bay called Van Diemen's +Bay, and the cluster of islands called Rosemary Islands, and the inlets +behind them, which should be most minutely examined; and, indeed, all +gulfs and openings should be the objects of particular attention; as the +chief motive for your survey is to discover whether there be any river on +that part of the coast likely to lead to an interior navigation into this +great continent. + +It is for several reasons most desirable that you should arrive on this +coast, and commence your survey as early as possible, and you will +therefore, when the vessel shall be ready, lose no time in proceeding to +the unexplored coasts; but you are at liberty to commence your survey at +whichever side you may judge proper, giving a preference to that which +you think you may be able soonest to reach; but in case you think that +indifferent, my Lords would wish you to commence by the neighbourhood of +the Rosemary Islands. + +Either on your way out, or on returning, you should examine the coast +between Cape Leeuwin and the Cape Gosselin, in M. De Freycinet's chart; +and generally you will observe, that it is very desirable that you should +visit those ranges of coast which the French navigators have either not +seen at all, or at too great a distance to ascertain and lay down +accurately. + +You will provide yourself at Port Jackson with the seeds of such +vegetables as it may be considered most useful to propagate on the coasts +you may visit, and you will take measures for sowing or planting them in +the fittest situations, with a view not only to their preservation, but +to their being within the observation and reach of succeeding navigators. + +You will take care to make duplicate copies of all your notes, surveys, +and drawings; and you are to take every possible opportunity of +transmitting one copy to Earl Bathurst, and the other to me for their +Lordship's information; but you need not send duplicates by the same +conveyance. And you will feel the necessity of writing by every +opportunity to acquaint both departments of your progress. + +You will remain on this service till you shall have examined all parts of +the coast which have not been laid down by Captain Flinders, M. De +Freycinet, or preceding navigators, or until you shall receive further +orders. + +I am, Sir, + +Your very humble servant, + +(Signed) J.W. CROKER. + +To Lieutenant P.P. King. + +... + +Downing-street, 8th of February, 1817. + +SIR, + +As His Majesty's Government has selected you for the command of an +expedition which is to be fitted out in New South Wales, for the purpose +of exploring the yet undiscovered Coast of New Holland, and for +completing, if possible, the circumnavigation of that continent; you will +proceed with all practicable expedition to Port Jackson, and you will, on +your arrival, deliver to Governor Macquarie the accompanying despatches, +which state the object which you have in view, and the means by which it +is to be accomplished. The Governor will place at your disposal any +colonial vessel which you may consider best calculated for the voyage, +and you will concert with him as to the equipment of such vessel, and +avail yourself of his knowledge of the several persons in the colony, in +order to select a crew on whom reliance can be placed for steadiness and +subordination. Besides the persons necessary for the navigation of the +vessel, you will receive on board Mr. A. Cunningham, a botanist, now in +New South Wales, who has received the orders of Sir Joseph Banks to +attend you; and you will engage any other person, if there be such in the +colony, who possesses a competent knowledge of Mineralogy or Natural +History. + +It is on every account most desirable that the Expedition should proceed +from Port Jackson as early as possible; you will therefore make every +exertion in your power to accelerate your departure from thence, and your +arrival at the point specified in your Admiralty instructions. + +The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty having given you detailed +instructions relative to the naval objects of the Expedition, I have only +to direct your observation to the several points referred to in the +enclosed memorandum, as those upon which it is desirable to procure +information. You will exercise your own discretion as to landing on the +several parts of the coast which you may explore; but on all occasions of +landing, you will give every facility to the botanist, and the other +scientific persons on board to pursue their inquiries; and you will +afford them such assistance in the pursuit as they may require. If the +place selected for landing be in any way remarkable in itself, or +important from being at the mouth of a river, or a harbour, you will take +care to leave some evidence which cannot be mistaken of your having +landed, either by erecting a flagstaff, or sowing some seeds, or by +resorting to any other means which may at the time present themselves. + +You will not fail regularly to keep a journal of your proceedings, and to +note down your observations, as they from time to time occur, +transmitting home by every opportunity intelligence of the progress which +you have made, and of the leading events which may have befallen you. + +I have the honour to be, Sir, + +Your most obedient, humble servant, + +(Signed) BATHURST. + +To Lieutenant P.P. King, R.N. + +MEMORANDUM. + +The following will be among the most important subjects, on which it will +be more immediately your province, assisted by your officers, to +endeavour to obtain information on any occasion which may offer. + +The general nature of the climate, as to heat, cold, moisture, winds, +rains, periodical seasons; the temperature regularly registered from +Fahrenheit's thermometer, as observed at two or three periods of the day. + +The direction of the mountains, their names, general appearance as to +shape; whether detached or continuous in ranges. + +The animals, whether birds, beasts, or fishes; insects, reptiles, etc., +distinguishing those that are wild from those which are domesticated. + +The vegetables, and particularly those that are applicable to any useful +purposes, whether in medicine, dyeing, carpentry, etc.; any scented or +ornamental woods, adapted for cabinet work and household furniture, and +more particularly such woods as may appear to be useful in ship-building; +hard woods for tree-nails, block-sheaves, etc., of all which it would be +desirable to procure small specimens labelled and numbered, so that an +easy reference may be made to them in the journal, to ascertain the +quantities in which they are found; the facility or otherwise of floating +them down to a convenient place for shipment, etc. + +Minerals, any of the precious metals, or stones; how used, or valued by +the natives. + +The description and characteristic difference of the several tribes or +people on the coast. + +The occupation and means of subsistence, whether chiefly, or to what +extent by fishing, hunting, feeding sheep or other animals, by +agriculture or by commerce. + +The principal objects of their several pursuits, as mentioned in the +preceding paragraphs. + +A circumstantial account of such articles growing on the sea-coast, if +any, as might be advantageously imported into Great Britain, and those +that would be required by the natives in exchange for them. + +The state of the arts, or manufactures, and their comparative perfection +in different tribes. + +A vocabulary of the language spoken by every tribe with which you may +meet, using in the compilation of each the same English words. + +... + +On the day that my appointment was dated, I received an order for a +passage in the ship Dick, a transport, hired to convey the 48th regiment +to New South Wales; and on the 17th of February, twelve days after my +appointment, left Gravesend; but from a tedious detention in the Downs, +and a succession of foul winds, did not finally leave Cork, where the +troops embarked, until the 3rd of April. + +On the 26th of May, the Dick anchored in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, +and remained for a fortnight, to procure refreshments for the troops, and +complete her water. + +Hence to New South Wales the voyage was performed, without the occurrence +of any incident worth recording. The heads of Port Jackson were seen at +daylight on the 1st of September; but being to leeward of the port, the +ship did not anchor in Sydney Cove until the 3rd, after a passage from +Cork of twenty-two weeks, including the fortnight that was passed at Rio. + +The same evening I waited upon his Excellency Governor Macquarie at +Parramatta, and delivered to him his letters and the despatches which +acquainted him with the particulars of my mission; upon which His +Excellency, after expressing himself anxious to give every assistance in +his power in forwarding the service I had to perform, informed me that +there were only two vessels belonging to the colony that could suit my +purpose: one of one hundred tons that had been lately launched, and the +other a brig of seventy tons, the Lady Nelson, that was built at Deptford +in the year 1799, and sent out to the colony, expressly for the purpose +of surveying the coast; she had, however, for the last ten years, been +used as a coal-vessel, and was then hauled upon the slips, undergoing a +repair. Upon examining the two vessels, I found that the former, although +of convenient burden, not only drew too much water, but was in every +other way unsuitable for my purpose; and the latter required much repair +before she could be sent to sea, but as there was no other vessel at Port +Jackson, either for sale or hire, no choice was left but to prepare the +Lady Nelson as quickly as possible; and, as it was found absolutely +necessary to give her a new keel, stern-post, and cut-water, besides new +decks, with many new beams, there was no probability of completing her +for at least four months. + +Fortunately, however, this arrangement was shortly afterwards rendered +unnecessary by the arrival from India, of the Mermaid, a cutter of 84 +tons burden, built of teak, and not quite twelve months old: her length +was 56 feet; breadth of beam 18 feet 6 inches; and did not, when +deep-laden, draw more than 9 feet; her bottom was rather sharper than was +convenient for the purpose of taking the ground; but, as I could not +expect to find every advantage combined in one vessel that was necessary +for the purpose of surveying, the latter objection was of necessity +overruled; and being in every other respect superior to the Lady Nelson, +and requiring no repairs, she was eventually purchased for the sum of +2000 pounds sterling, and immediately appropriated to my use. + +A schooner would have been much more convenient; but, as there was no +opportunity of making such an alteration, it could not be effected. My +statement of the arrangements that were requisite for our accommodation +was approved of by the Governor, who gave the necessary orders to the +Engineer, a captain of the forty-sixth regiment; and the Deputy +Commissary General was instructed to attend to all my demands, and to +supply the requisite quantities of provisions and stores; but, +notwithstanding every wish on the part of His Excellency to forward our +outfit and complete the vessel for sea without delay, it was not until +the 21st of December that the alterations were finished. Had we met with +as much opposition and inattention from the commissariat department as +from the engineer, the vessel would not have been ready for sea for six +months; it is, however, a duty I owe to Deputy Commissary General Allan, +to acknowledge the readiness with which that officer's department +attended to my wants. + +The following is a list of the officers and men who formed the crew of +the Mermaid:-- + +Commander: +Lieutenant Phillip Parker King. + +Master's mates, 2: +Mr. Frederick Bedwell. +Mr. John Septimus Roe. + +Botanical collector: +Mr. Allan Cunningham. + +Seamen, 12. + +Boys, 2. + +Total, 18. + +In addition to this establishment, I accepted the proffered services of +Boongaree, a Port Jackson native, who had formerly accompanied Captain +Flinders in the Investigator, and also on a previous occasion in the +Norfolk schooner. This man is well known in the colony as the chief of +the Broken Bay tribe; he was about forty-five years of age, of a sharp, +intelligent, and unassuming disposition, and promised to be of much +service to us in our intercourse with the natives: this addition made our +number amount to nineteen, for which we carried provisions for nine +months, and twelve weeks' water. + +... + + +VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY + +OF THE + +INTERTROPICAL COASTS + +OF + +AUSTRALIA. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Intended mode of proceeding, and departure from Port Jackson. +Visit Twofold Bay. +Natives seen. +Passage through Bass Strait and along the South Coast to King George the +Third's Sound. +Transactions there. +Voyage to the North-West Cape, and Survey of the Coast between the +North-West Cape and Depuch Island, including the examinations of Exmouth +Gulf, Curlew River, and Dampier's Archipelago. +Loss of Anchors, and Interview with the Natives. +Remarks upon Dampier's account of Rosemary Island, and of the Island upon +which he landed. + +1817. December 21. + +At the time that the Mermaid was ready to commence her voyage, it was the +season when the westerly monsoon blows over that part of the sea which +separates the islands of Timor and New Guinea from Australia; it was +therefore necessary, in order to benefit by the direction of the wind, to +commence the survey of the coast at its western extremity, the North-West +Cape: but, to do this, the passage was to be made, by taking the western +route, as it is called; that is, by passing either through Bass Strait, +or round Van Diemen's Land, and steering up the West Coast. In doing +this, the vessel would, doubtless, have to encounter much bad weather; +and, on her arrival might, probably, be more fit to return than to +commence the survey of a dangerous and an unknown coast. The passage to +the northward, through Torres Strait, would have been, on all accounts, +the most advisable route, had the season been more advanced; and, indeed, +it would have been even better to wait until March for that purpose; but +this would be a loss of time in which much might be effected, were we +only fortunate enough to make the western passage without accident: under +all these circumstances, I was induced to prefer the route of Bass +Strait, rather than remain idle, after the vessel was completed. + +Before we left Port Jackson, His Excellency the Governor was made +acquainted with my intended mode of proceeding; that, having passed Bass +Strait to King George the Third's Sound, I should there complete my water +and fuel: then, by steering up the West Coast, to commence my survey at +the North-West Cape, and examine the coast easterly until the westerly +monsoon should begin to decline; upon which I proposed to leave the land, +and proceed as far to the eastward as the remainder of the monsoon would +allow; when I might examine the coast back with the easterly monsoon as +long as my stock of water lasted; and lastly, if I could not get a supply +upon the coast, to go to Timor, by which time my provisions would, +probably, be so reduced as to oblige my returning to Port Jackson to +prepare for a second voyage. + +December 22. + +Having made our final arrangements, we left Port Jackson on the 22nd of +December, with a fresh northerly breeze, which continued until the +evening of the 24th, when we were abreast of Cape Howe. After this a +heavy gale of wind from South-West obliged us to run into Twofold Bay for +shelter, and to repair some trifling damage which we had already +sustained. + +Twofold Bay was discovered by Mr. Bass in 1797; and, although it is for +the most part too open and exposed to easterly winds for large ships, yet +it has a cove on its northern side, in which small vessels find secure +anchorage and a convenient place for stopping at, if bound to the +southward; and hence its name of Snug Cove. It is completely land-locked, +and it also conveniently affords both wood and water, and is neither +difficult to enter nor to leave. + +December 26. + +When passing Red Point, which is on the south side of the bay, several +natives were seen upon it; one of them came to the verge of the rocks +that overhang the extremity of the point, and made violent gestures, but, +whether they were those of friendship or hostility, could not be +ascertained. Boongaree answered him in the Port Jackson language, but +they were equally unintelligible to each other. The native had a spear in +one hand, and either a throwing stick, or a club, in the other; both of +which, with his legs widely extended, he flourished most furiously over +his head. This man was quite naked, but a woman near him wore a +kangaroo's skin over her shoulders. Several small parties of natives were +seen in the other parts of the bay, but they appeared more anxious to +avoid than to court a communication with us. + +On anchoring in Snug Cove, I went on shore with Mr. Roe and Mr. +Cunningham: Boongaree also accompanied us, clothed in a new dress, which +was provided for him, of which he was not a little proud, and for some +time kept it very clean. + +Wood was abundant and near at hand, and the water, which is in a morass +at the back of the beach, although shallow, and covered with a species of +azolla, was both good and plentiful. + +The soil of the hills, contiguous to Snug Cove, is very good, and covered +with luxuriant grass. The country appeared to be thickly wooded, but near +the water the trees, which were principally species of the eucalyptus and +the casuarina, were small and stunted. + +In our strolls during the day along the beach, and over the surrounding +hills, we did not encounter any inhabitants, although recent signs of +them were visible at every step; several beaten paths were observed +leading to the morass from different directions, on the banks of which +were many shells (Haliotis gigantea, Linn.) used by the natives for +drinking-vessels. + +In the evening, after hauling the seine on the beach without success, we +were upon the point of embarking, when we discovered, at about seventy or +eighty yards up the hill, the heads of three or four natives peeping +above the long grass, evidently watching our movements, and probably +awaiting our departure to allow them to go to the morass for water. +Wishing very much to communicate with these people, we walked towards +them, but they suddenly rose and scampered up the hill among the trees, +which were so thick as soon to conceal them from our view. Boongaree +called to them in vain; and it was not until they had reached some +distance that they answered his call in loud shrill voices. After some +time spent in a parley, in which Boongaree was spokesman on our part, +sometimes in his own language, and at others in broken English, which he +always resorted to when his own failed in being understood, they withdrew +altogether, and we neither heard nor saw anything more of them. + +December 27. + +The next morning, the wind being easterly, we left the bay. On passing +Red Point, twenty or thirty natives came to the extreme point of the +cliff, shouting and hallooing and making violent gestures; a large group +of women and children appeared in the background, timidly concealing +themselves behind the trees and bushes; another party was quietly seated +round small fires on the rocks near the sea-beach, apparently engaged in +cooking their fish; and at a little distance from the last group, two +canoes were hauled upon the rocks. + +The breeze being fresh from the North-North-East, we made rapid progress; +and at three o'clock p.m., rounded Cape Howe, with every prospect of +passing through Bass Strait before the wind should again veer to the +westward. In passing Cape Howe, we observed large fires burning on the +hills, made by the natives for the double purpose of burning off the dry +grass and of hunting the kangaroos, which are thus forced to fly from the +woods, and thereby fall an easy prey to their pursuers. + +December 28. + +The next day at noon, Kent's Group, in the eastern entrance of Bass +Strait, was seen; but, at one o'clock, the wind shifted suddenly and blew +a gale from South-West, with heavy rain: after beating against it until +the following day, we bore up and ran under the lee of Great Island, +intending to pass round Van Diemen's Land: at five o'clock, we passed +close to the Babel Islands, on which were heaped incredible numbers of +sea-birds of various descriptions, each species huddled together in +flocks separate from the other. On another part of the island many seals +were seen, by the growl of which, and the discordant screams of the +birds, a strange confused noise was made, not ill adapted to the name the +island bears. + +December 29. + +By the following day, we had made some progress along the eastern side of +Van Diemen's Land, but in the evening, the wind shifted to South-East, +and induced us to try the Strait once more. In passing the low +north-easternmost point of the land, called by the French, Cape +Naturaliste, we had nearly run ashore from the darkness of the night, and +the little elevation of the land. Our sounding in seven fathoms was the +first indication of danger; and, on listening attentively, the noise of +the surf upon the beach was distinctly heard. + +December 30. + +The next morning we passed through Banks Strait, and entered Bass Strait. + +1818. January 2. + +But the wind was so light and baffling, that we made no progress until +the 2nd of January; when, with a freshening breeze from the eastward, we +moved rapidly on our way, and flattered ourselves with the hope of +clearing the strait before night. In this hope we were not deceived; but +before it was effected, we had very nearly suffered from the careless +look-out of the man at the masthead. At four o'clock we were near Three +Hummock Island, and steered so as to pass close to its northern point, in +order that we might obtain a correct latitude for sights for the +chronometers. Being within half a mile of it, rocks were suddenly seen +outside and so close to us, that it was then too late either to haul up +or bear away; the rocks to windward and the land to leeward preventing +us: nothing was therefore left to us but to proceed and take the chance +of finding sufficient depth of water between the point and the rocks; +providentially there proved to be a passage of one-eighth of a mile wide, +and the cutter passed safely through. These islands were examined by +Commodore Baudin, and an elaborate survey made of them by his officers; +but this danger is not noticed on their plan of the group. The rocks bear +North 30 degrees West (by compass) from the northernmost point of the +island, and North 8 degrees East (by compass) from the northernmost +hummock. I do not think they extend far from the shore. + +At sunset, we were in the meridian of Albatross Island, and by midnight +cleared the Strait, when we steered a course for King George the Third's +Sound. + +Upon examining our bread, we found that a considerable quantity was +spoiled from damp and leaks, which necessarily obliged us to go at once +upon a reduced allowance of that article. + +January 16. + +From a succession of westerly winds, the vessel was driven so near to the +Archipelago of the Recherche, that we were induced to bear up for the +anchorage in Goose Island Bay; but as we steered round Douglas's Isles, +the wind veered back to the South-East, and we might have proceeded: we +were, however, so near the anchorage, that I determined upon occupying it +for the night; and steering in between Middle Island and Goose Island, +the anchor was dropped off the first sandy beach to the eastward of the +highest hill, at the north-west end of the former. + +In the evening I landed with the botanist and Mr. Roe, but we found +little that was worthy of our attention. The basis of the island is +granitic, and covered with a shallow soil, formed of decayed vegetable +matter, mixed with sand, which nourishes the stunted vegetation that +thickly clothes the surface, particularly on the north-eastern, which is +its most sheltered side. + +No animals were observed, excepting some small quadrupeds, which were +momentarily seen by Mr. Roe, and, from his description, were +kangaroo-rats. On Goose Island, the bird from which it takes its name +appeared to be abundant; but there was too much surf to permit our +landing upon it, and we were not so much in want of fresh provisions as +to induce our risking any damage to the boats: we found the bones of a +whale which had been thrown up on the beach where we landed. + +January 17. + +The wind in the night veered to North-East by East, to which quarter the +anchorage is much exposed; towards morning it blew fresh, but the anchor +held well. At dawn of day, (17th) we got underweigh and steered through +the islands; at noon, we were abreast of Termination Island, the latitude +of which we found to be 34 degrees 32 minutes. Our friendly wind died +away at midnight, and was succeeded by a short gale from the westward. + +January 20. + +On the 20th, at daylight, we were close to Bald Island, and in the +afternoon took up an anchorage in King George the Third's Sound, between +Seal Island and the first sandy beach, at the distance of half a mile to +the eastward of a flat rock in seven fathoms, sand and weeds. + +In the evening we landed on Seal Island, which we had much difficulty in +effecting on account of the surf. Several seals were upon it, one of +which we killed; and some penguins were also taken. On the summit of the +island or rock, for it scarcely deserves the former appellation, the +skeleton of a goat's head was found, and near it were the remains of a +glass case bottle; both of which, we afterwards learnt, were left on the +island by Lieutenant Forster, R.N., who put into this harbour in 1815, on +his passage from Port Jackson to Europe, in the Emu, hired transport. We +searched in vain for the bottle which Captain Flinders left there, +containing an account of the Investigator's visit; my intention, in +looking for this document, was not of course to remove it, but to +ascertain its existence, and to add a few lines to the memorandum it +contained. + +Iguanas, geese, penguins, gulls, and seals of the hairy species, were the +sole inhabitants of this rock. After leaving Seal Island, we landed on +the sandy beach abreast of the anchorage; in doing this the boat filled, +and the instruments were so wetted, that they were left on the beach to +dry during our absence. Our ascent, from the hill being steep, and +composed of a very loose drift sand, was difficult and fatiguing; but the +beautiful flowers and plants, with which the surface of the hill was +strewed, repaid us for our toil. These being all new to Mr. Cunningham +fully occupied his attention, whilst I remained upon the summit, from +whence a good view was obtained of the Eclipse Isles, and Vancouver's +breakers, both of which are well laid down by Captain Flinders, whose +correctness I had already many occasions to admire. An abundance of +shells of the helix tribe (Helix bulimus) was found on the top and sides +of the hill; and a calcareous substance was observed protruding from the +ground in every part, as noticed both by Vancouver and Flinders;* the +former also found it on the bare sandy summit of Bald Head, and supposed +it to be coral, a circumstance from which he inferred that the level of +the ocean must have sunk. Similar substances have since been discovered +by Dr. Clarke Abel, near Simon's Town, at the Cape of Good Hope, and are +described by him to be vegetables impregnated with carbonate of lime; but +from the specimens we obtained, it would appear that it is neither coral, +nor a petrified vegetable substance, but merely sand agglutinated by +calcareous matter**. + +(*Footnote. Vancouver volume 1 page 49. Flinders volume 1 page 63.) + +(**Footnote. Vide Appendix, C.) + +January 21. + +The next morning we got under weigh, and stood over to the entrance of +Oyster Harbour, off which we anchored to examine the bar; after +satisfying myself on this head, and choosing a spot within the entrance +to anchor at, we got under-sail, and in crossing the bar had not less +than thirteen feet and a half, being nearly about the time of high water; +but between the heads of the harbour it deepened to five, seven, and +eight fathoms. Our anchorage was about twenty-five yards from the eastern +shore, and not more than fifty yards within the narrowest part of the +entrance; it was convenient for our purposes, as the wood was abundantly +procured close to our water-holes, which were dug at the edge of the +sand, within thirty yards of the vessel; so that the people employed in +these occupations could be protected against the natives by the proximity +of the cutter, without preventing the necessary repairs to the rigging +being carried on at the same time by the remainder of the crew on board. + +January 21 to 31. + +During our stay in Oyster Harbour many parts of the neighbourhood were +visited by us; and on one occasion, Mr. Roe walked round its shores; in +doing which he got into great danger. Upon leaving the vessel, his +intention was only to go to a projecting head on the western side, for +the purpose of taking a sketch; but being tempted to extend his walk, he +had half traversed the shore of the harbour before he thought of +returning. He had already waded over the river that falls into the +North-West corner of the port, which was not more than four feet deep; +and to avoid crossing it again, he preferred returning to the tent, by +making the circuit of the harbour: but after proceeding some distance +further, he unexpectedly met with another river, deeper and wider than +that which he had previously passed; this proved to be the Riviere de +Francois of Captain Baudin; it falls into Oyster Harbour at its +North-East corner, about two miles to the eastward of the Western River. +In attempting to ford this, finding the water deeper than he expected, he +was obliged to swim about two hundred yards; and, from being burdened +with his clothes, narrowly escaped with his life. Fortunately he met with +no further impediment to his return, and reached the tent much fatigued. +We afterwards made an excursion up this river, but from the greater part +of the day being spent in searching for the entrance, which is both shoal +and intricate, we did not succeed in reaching farther than four miles +from its mouth. At the part where we left off our examination, it was +about sixty yards wide, and from ten to twelve feet deep; bounded on +either side by gently rising and well wooded hills; but the soil was +neither rich nor deep. The shoals of the river, which at the entrance +were very extensive, were covered with large flights of water-fowl; among +which curlews and teals were abundant. + +Oyster Harbour is plentifully stocked with fish, but we were not +successful with the hook, on account of the immense number of sharks that +were constantly playing about the vessel. A few fish were taken with the +seine, which we hauled on the eastern side of the small central island. +At this place Captain Vancouver planted and stocked a garden with +vegetables, no vestige of which now remained. Boongaree speared a great +many fish with his fiz-gig; one that he struck with the boat-hook on the +shoals at the entrance of the Eastern River weighed twenty-two pounds and +a half, and was three feet and a half long. The mouths of all the creeks +and inlets were planted with weirs, which the natives had constructed for +the purpose of catching fish. Mr. Roe, on his excursion round the +harbour, counted eleven of these weirs on the flats and shoals between +the two rivers, one of which was a hundred yards long, and projected +forty yards, in a crescent-shape, towards the sea; they were formed by +stones placed so close to each other as to prevent the escape, as the +tide ebbed, of such fish as had passed over at high water. This expedient +is adopted in many parts of the continent; it was observed by Lieutenant +Oxley, R.N., the surveyor-general of New South Wales, in his journey on +the banks of the Lachlan River: the same was also seen by me on several +parts of the North-West Coast; and, from its being used on the +South-East, South-West, and North-West Coasts, it may be concluded to be +the practice throughout the country. + +While waiting for an opportunity of leaving this harbour, Mr. Roe +assisted me in making a survey of the entrance, in the hope of finding it +more available for large ships; but in vain; for ships drawing more than +twelve feet water cannot pass the bar. The rise and fall of the tide is +not only very inconsiderable, but also very irregular; under some +circumstances we found that it rose three feet, but this was very +unusual. + +Our gentlemen made several excursions into the country in various +directions, in the hope of meeting with natives, but not the least +vestige of their immediate presence was found; they were not however far +from us, for the smokes of their fires were seen every evening; probably +the fear of punishment kept them away, as they had formerly made rather a +mischievous attack upon some of the Emu's crew. + +No marks were left of the ship Elligood's garden, which Captain Flinders +found at the entrance of Oyster Harbour;* but a lapse of sixteen years +will in this country create a complete revolution in vegetation; which is +here so luxuriant and rapid that whole woods may have been burnt down by +the natives, and grown again within that space of time; and it may be +thus that the Elligood's garden is now possessed by the less useful but +more beautiful plants and shrubs of the country. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Terra Australis volume 1 page 55.) + +Excepting the sea-fowl, which consisted of geese, wild ducks, teals, +curlews, divers, sea-pies, gulls, and terns, very few birds were seen, +and those chiefly of the parrot and cockatoo tribe; a species of the +latter was noticed of a rich black plumage, and very like the black +cockatoo of New South Wales. Kangaroos from their traces must be +numerous, but only a very few were noticed; the only reptile that was +found was a black snake, which Mr. Cunningham saw for a moment as it +glided past him. This gentleman made a large collection of seeds and +dried specimens from the vast variety of beautiful plants and flowers +with which nature has so lavishly clothed the hills and plains of this +interesting country. + +A small spot of ground near the tent was dug up and enclosed with a +fence, in which Mr. Cunningham sowed many culinary seeds and +peach-stones; and on the stump of a tree, which had been felled by our +wooding party, the name of the vessel with the date of our visit was +inscribed; but when we visited Oyster Harbour three years and a half +afterwards, no signs remained of the garden, and the inscription was +scarcely perceptible, from the stump of the tree having been nearly +destroyed by fire. + +A little without the east entrance of the harbour, we saw one of those +prodigious large nests which Captain Flinders observed near Point +Possession; it was built on the summit of an almost inaccessible rock, +exposed to the South-West winds; it measured four feet in diameter at the +top, and nearly seven feet at the base: it appeared to have been deserted +for some time, as the branches and sea-weed, with which it was made, were +strewed about the rock. Captain Flinders thought it probable that the +inhabitant was an eagle; but on our subsequent visit to King George's +Sound in 1821, we saw the same nest occupied by a hawk of a moderate +size. + +On the 31st January we were ready to leave the port; but the weather was +so unfavourable that we remained until the following day. In the evening +a boat was sent to Seal Island to deposit a bottle, in which was enclosed +a memorandum informing future navigators of our visit, and intentions +with respect to our further proceedings. When the boat returned she +brought two seals, which had been killed on the island for the sake of +their skins, to be used for the purpose of refitting the rigging. + +1819. February 1. + +The next day (February 1st) the cutter was warped out of Oyster Harbour; +and, as the wind was from the eastward, we profited by it: after beating +out of the Sound we steered along the coast, and at eight o'clock were +abreast of West Cape Howe. + +On rounding Cape Leeuwin, our crew were attacked with a bowel complaint, +and symptoms of dysentery; the want of a surgeon to our establishment was +most anxiously felt, from the fear that, by an unskilful or improper use +of medicines, I might increase, instead of lessen the progress of +complaints, which from the fatigues of such a service, in so warm a +climate and in the unhealthy season, threatened to be frequent and +severe. One or two of the people had complained of this disorder before +we left Oyster Harbour, but it was not until we had sailed, that it +assumed any serious appearance. After two days it happily began to +subside, or I should of necessity have been obliged to resort to some +place for relief, for we had, at one time, only four seamen to keep +watch. + +February 10. + +This sickness prevented our examining any part of the West Coast, as we +passed it; our course was therefore held at a distance from the shore, +and on the 10th the land to the southward of the North-West Cape was +descried at daylight. Its outline was so level as to appear like a thick +fog on the horizon; but, as the sun rose, we were undeceived. At seven +miles from the shore we found no soundings with 80 fathoms; but at eight +o'clock, being three miles nearer, we had 35 fathoms, sand, coral, and +shells. The bottom then gradually shoaled to 22 fathoms; upon which we +steered along the outer edge of a line of breakers that fronted the +shore, and after rounding a projection of the reef, steered to the +East-North-East, towards the extreme of the land. + +The coast is here tolerably elevated, and may be seen at the distance of +six or seven leagues; it is composed of a red-coloured, sandy-looking +rock, which is very scantily sprinkled with small shrubs, and appears to +be extremely arid and sterile. The shore is fronted with rocks that +extend for three or four miles into the sea; on the extremity of which +the surf breaks with a continued foam. To the north the land suddenly +terminates with rather a steep slope, but a low sandy plain extends to +the East-North-East for three miles further, the extremity of which is +the North-West Cape. The fall of the high-land was called Vlaming Head, +after the navigator who first discovered this part. + +After obtaining the meridional observation, we rounded the Cape, and +steered between it and a patch of breakers which lie at the distance of a +mile and a half from the shore: we were no sooner under the lee of the +land, than the air, before of a pleasant and a moderate temperature, +became so heated as to produce a scorching sensation; and to raise the +mercury in the thermometer from 79 to 89 degrees. We were also assailed +by an incredible number of flies and other insects, among which was a +beautiful species of libellula. The sea swarmed with turtles, sea-snakes, +and fish of various sorts; and the dolphin was eminently conspicuous for +its speed, and the varied beauty of its colours. + +From the Cape, the low sandy land trended to the South-South-East for a +mile and a half, and then with the same character to South-South-West 1/2 +West, in which direction it was lost in distance; and in the north east, +was a low rocky island. + +The wind fell after passing round the Cape, and was so light during the +afternoon that we made no progress, and were obliged to anchor at about +three or four miles to the eastward of the Cape. At nine o'clock the wind +freshened with the flood-tide, which raised a heavy swell in which the +cutter rode very uneasily. + +February 11. + +And, in the morning, when we attempted to weigh the anchor, the cable +parted, having been cut by rocks. Owing to the bad construction of the +buoy, it did not watch; and, as the tide quickly swept us from the place, +we had no chance left of recovering the anchor. As the sun rose the wind +gradually fell; and, at noon, we were no farther advanced than a mile and +a half to the southward of the north east trend of the Cape. Here the +coast is low and sandy, and is of shoal approach. A small clump of +mangrove-trees on the beach was the first sign of vegetation that we had +seen; and, from the absence of verdure hereabout, is a conspicuous +object. The thermometer stood at 89 degrees. The ebb tide then commenced +and drifted us out near our last night's anchoring ground, and the +evening was spent, without success, in searching for our lost anchor. At +sunset a fresh breeze set in from the South-West, and fearing a +repetition of our loss, we continued under sail during the night, which +was past with great anxiety; and not without reason. + +February 12. + +For when the day broke, we found ourselves within one mile of the reef +off the South-West end of the island in the north east (which proved to +be Captain Baudin's Muiron Island), and drifting towards it so rapidly, +that in less than half an hour the vessel would have been thrown upon the +rocks. Standing to the eastward we discovered the three sandy islets--h, +i, and k; and at noon, we were near two other sandy islets, y, and z, +which appeared to be the north-westernmost of a group of low, sandy, or +rocky islets, extending to the South-East, beyond the limits of our +masthead view. The islets, y and z, are of circular shape, and not more +than a quarter of a mile in diameter; they are so low as not to be +visible from our deck at a greater distance than seven miles. Their +summits are crowned with a slight shrubby vegetation, the bright verdure +of which, separated from the dark blue colour of the sea by their +glittering sandy beaches, formed a pleasing contrast to the dull, +monotonous appearance of the mainland. These islets are in fact only the +dry parts of a shoal, on which the sand has accumulated, and formed a +soil to receive and nourish the seeds of plants, which have either been +drifted on shore by the tide, or been brought by birds from the +continent. + +At sunset we anchored under the land, but soon afterwards the wind blew +so fresh, that the fluke of our anchor broke, and we were obliged to drop +another; which was the last we possessed, besides a small stream anchor +that was too light to use, excepting in a calm. + +February 13. + +The next morning being fine, and favourable for another search after our +lost anchor (the recovery of which from our last night's misfortune had +become of very great consequence) we bore up along the shore, and soon +arrived at the spot; but after some time spent in the search, without +success, we were at last obliged to relinquish the attempt, and gave up +all hope of ever finding it. + +February 14. + +We then returned into the gulf to prosecute its examination, but as +usual, the wind fell, and the only progress we made was by the assistance +of the flood-tide, which ran until sunset; a fresh breeze then sprung up, +and the night was passed under sail. At daylight the following morning +the cutter was about four miles from the western shore, but the day was +so calm that very little progress was made. The thermometer indicated a +temperature of 97 degrees, which, from the absence of the sea-breeze, and +from our not having an awning to protect us from the sun's rays, was +almost insufferable; and although our crew were happily in good health, +yet my fears were momentarily alive lest any should be taken ill. A +land-wind at night enabled us to make some progress, and before dark we +had reached twenty-five miles into the opening without seeing anything +like its termination; the western side still trended in a southerly +direction, losing itself in distance, and bore the appearance of being an +island. + +February 15. + +By the next day we descried some hills of peaked shape to the southward, +which was the only indication we had of the termination of the gulf: to +the eastward the islands were very numerous and low; but to the +South-East the land was so continuous as to impress us with the idea of +its being the continent. We steered towards it to satisfy our doubts but +the water shoaled and prevented our approaching it near enough to +ascertain the fact. The gulf was here so much narrower, and the bottom so +uneven and rocky, that an anchorage was now of material importance, but +our poverty in anchors made me fearful of risking our last upon a bottom +of the least questionable nature. Before dark however we were fortunate +in finding a bay on the western shore, in which the anchor was dropped in +three fathoms muddy bottom, at one mile from the shore. + +The discovery of this anchorage proved so welcome to our fatigued crew, +that the place was not unaptly named the Bay of Rest. We remained here +three days, in which time I was enabled to lay down my plan of the gulf, +and give some little respite to the people who had been up both night and +day, and most laboriously occupied, since we rounded the North-West Cape. + +As soon as the vessel was secured Mr. Bedwell landed on the eastern shore +of the bay, and found it to be of bold approach, but lined with coral +rocks, and covered with dead shells, among which a buccinum of immense +size was noticed. The soil, if such it can be called, is composed of a +red quartzose sand; but on the hills it contained also a small portion of +earth, which gave it a strong resemblance to brick-dust. The country is +slightly sprinkled with a stunted vegetation, and bore a most desert-like +appearance; and on the shore we noticed a few mangrove bushes. + +The sea was abundantly stocked with fish and turtle, though it did not +appear to be the season for the latter to lay their eggs. An immense +shark was hooked, but it broke the hook and escaped: its length was about +twelve feet, of an ashy-gray colour, spotted all over with darker marks; +the belly was white, and the nose short; it was altogether different from +any we had before seen. The impression of what appeared to have been an +emu's foot was noticed upon the sand, there is reason, however, to think +we may have been deceived; we never afterwards saw one of those birds on +the north coast. + +The country was covered with immense ant-hills; one that Mr. Cunningham +measured was eight feet high, and nearly twenty-six in circumference; but +on breaking it up, he found it to be deserted by its constructors: an +iguana, which was hunted by that gentleman, took refuge in one of these +hills, which proved a safe asylum, for, although he broke a great part +down, it escaped. + +February 16. + +During the following day, Mr. Bedwell examined the bottom of the bay, +where he found a narrow opening, communicating with an inner basin of +small extent, containing from two to five feet water, well stocked with +fish: during the afternoon Mr. Roe walked over the sand-ridges behind the +beach, and provided me with an outline, and the particular features of a +part of the coast. + +The country at the back of the bay was in flames during our stay, which +proved, if a proof were required, that this arid and barren extremity of +Australia is not destitute of inhabitants; and although we saw none, it +is probable that they were not ignorant of our presence, but from +timidity intentionally avoided us. The heat was very great; on board, the +thermometer did not stand higher than 90 degrees, whilst on shore it rose +to 105 degrees, and when exposed to the sun to 119 degrees. + +February 18. + +On the morning of the 18th we resumed the examination of the inlet, but +having proceeded only six miles farther, there was every appearance +either of its termination, or of its communicating with the sea. The +channel had become narrow and shoal, and as I was not prepared for so +critical a navigation, the further examination was given up, and we bore +up to coast along the eastern shore; but, from the shoalness of the +water, we were obliged to sail at so great a distance that its continuity +was by no means distinctly traced. The inlet was named Exmouth Gulf, in +compliment to the noble and gallant Viscount. + +February 19. + +Having by night reached a clear space, the cutter was kept under sail; +and the next morning Vlaming Head and Muiron Island were seen, as well as +the islets y and z, and the others to the South-East. The course was then +directed to the eastward, and having reached within four miles of the +coast, the depth of water was only two and a half fathoms. At noon, we +passed between two other islets; and, during the afternoon, steered along +the coast parallel to it, and within a range of low sandy islets, of +similar character with y and z, and the other islets in their vicinity. A +low, sandy projection of the coast was named after Edward Hawke Locker, +Esquire. + +Twelve miles to the eastward of Cape Locker the shore is lined with +mangroves, among which a small opening, like a rivulet, was observed. On +attempting to approach it, we were prevented by a reef of rocks that +stretched across its entrance; but we succeeded in finding an anchorage +about three miles to the eastward of the inlet, in two and a half fathoms +at about a quarter of a mile from the shore. + +February 20. + +The following morning, we ascended it in a boat for four miles. On our +way to the entrance, which was between the reef and the shore, we had +some difficulty, even with the boat, in finding a channel; but when we +were within the heads, we found a regular depth of from ten to twelve +feet, the banks on either side were, for two miles, impenetrably lined +with mangrove bushes, which bore the marks of having been torn down by +freshes or inundations. Beyond this the banks were low and sandy, but the +channel of the river was of mud. At high water we landed to examine the +country, and ascended a sand-hillock, the only elevation we could find, +to procure a view around; it was so low that our prospect was very +limited, yet still it was sufficient to satisfy us of the aridity and +poverty of the soil: the country bore the appearance of having been under +water, which seemed to be occasioned by high tides, for there were large +patches of salt incrustations, which could only have been caused by an +inundation of sea-water. Two or three stunted bushes of a species of +eucalyptus were the only trees seen, excepting the mangroves. The soil is +composed of a mixture of red quartzose sand, mud, and clay, in which the +first bore the greatest proportion. + +On no part of the coast did we find the heat so intense and oppressive as +in this river; the thermometer stood at 94 degrees, and the ground was so +heated that we were obliged to beat a bush down to stand upon, whilst we +were taking the bearings of some of the islets in the offing. + +Some natives and a dog had very recently been crossing the little creeks +that fell into the river, for the impressions of their feet were observed +below the high-water mark; the mouths of the creeks were planted with +weirs, similar to those in the river at Oyster Harbour. + +The river appeared to abound in fish, but the only sort that was caught +was what the sailors called cat-fish; they were of a nauseous taste. +Pelicans and curlews were very numerous, particularly the latter, in +consequence of which the inlet was called Curlew River; but the most +numerous and annoying of the inhabitants of this part were the flies, +from their constantly creeping into the eyes, nostrils, and mouth, +particularly during our meals; and it required some little trouble to +partake of our repast without also conveying with it several of these +troublesome insects. + +On our return to the cutter, our party very imprudently bathed, which +occasioned, to some of them, two or three days' indisposition, and it was +fortunate that they did not suffer from a coup de soleil. This +indiscretion was, however, never afterwards permitted. + +During the absence of the boat, Mr. Bedwell landed abreast the anchorage, +and walked a mile inland to one of the salt marshes. On his way, he +passed several ant-hills of the same description as those seen by us at +the Bay of Rest. The coast is here protected from inroads of the sea by a +barrier of sand dunes, from ten to twenty feet high, on which were +growing a variety of plants, particularly a species of convolvulus, +which, from the great size and length of its stem, being an inch in +diameter and extending along the beach for more than thirty yards, is +very conspicuous. Behind these dunes the country is flat, and in most +parts below the level of the sea; so that when the tides rise high enough +to pass over the breaks in the dunes, the country is inundated, when, by +the intense heat of the sun, the water is very speedily evaporated, and a +salt incrustation, to a great extent, is formed upon the plains. At the +distance of four or five miles from the beach, a small range of rocky +hills, apparently destitute of vegetation, formed a boundary to the view. +The shore is lined by a barrier of sharp rocks, covered with species of +ostrea and nerita, but although these were the only living testaceous +animals that were found, the beach was covered with a multitude of dead +and imperfect shells of various species. + +In the evening, after our return from the river, the weather clouded, but +afterwards cleared up with a change of wind from the South-East, which, +from its heat, and from the listless sensations it caused, resembled the +hot land-wind of Port Jackson: this seems to afford additional ground for +the hypothesis that the interior of this immense island is occupied by +vast sandy deserts. + +February 22. + +On leaving this anchorage it was low water, when the depth was only six +inches more than the vessel's draught; but the bottom being of mud, it +deepened inch by inch, until we reached four, five, and six fathoms; and +upon this depth we sailed the whole day, passing through a cluster, or +rather range of sandy islets. In the evening we anchored under one of +larger size than usual, about four miles from the mainland, the shores of +which had been traced during the day, without losing sight of any part of +it; it was still low, and bounded either by dunes of sand, or an +impervious forest of mangroves, beyond which no part of the interior +could be seen. + +February 23. + +The following day was spent in examining a bight, but we were prevented +from penetrating to the bottom by the shoalness of the water. We were, +however, near enough to see large sheets of water over the mangrove belt +that lined the shore, in which many openings were observed that +communicated with it. Beyond the lakes was a range of rocky hills, that +bounded our masthead view. The bight is fronted by a crowded range of +sandy islets, from which we did not extricate ourselves until the next +day. + +Having passed out between two sandy islets, our course was held to the +northward, outside of a range of islets, and parallel to the mainland; +which was soon afterwards lost to view by trending to the eastward. At +one o'clock we passed round a larger and a more elevated island, as well +as of a more rocky character than those to the southward; and then +steered to the eastward, towards the next projecting point of the main, +named after my friend Richard Preston, Esquire, on our way to which we +left a small island about one mile to the northward of our track. In the +evening, we steered close round Cape Preston, but were disappointed in an +attempt to find anchorage near it, from the rocky state of the bottom, so +that the night was passed under sail, which, considering the number of +low islets scattered about, was running a dangerous risk, and this was +increased by encountering a severe squall of wind from the South-East, +which blew so insufferably hot that the thermometer stood at 89 degrees, +having been at 91 degrees all the previous day. + +February 24. + +The next morning it was calm and sultry; at ten o'clock we anchored near +a small sandy isle in the centre of the bay, until the sea-breeze set in, +which was taken immediate advantage of; and after weighing the course was +directed towards a steep rocky head, forming the South-West point of an +island, subsequently called Enderby Island, after a very old and valued +friend. On our way we had to pass round a sandy islet and a rocky reef of +considerable extent; after which we anchored off a sandy beach to the +eastward of Rocky Head. + +Soon after anchoring the sky became black and clouded over the land to +the South-East, and assumed a very threatening appearance; heavy, dense +clouds, in which streams of vivid forked lightning momentarily appeared, +were rolling rapidly towards us, and made us fear a repetition of last +night's storm; the stream-anchor, the only resource we had, was therefore +dropped; and, with the topmast struck, we awaited the bursting of the +storm with much anxiety, and just cause of alarm for the safety of the +vessel: the clouds continued to roll towards us, but just as the storm +was on the point of bursting, the clouds suddenly dispersed and in half +an hour the night turned out as fine as it had threatened to be the +reverse. + +February 25. + +The next morning I landed with Mr. Roe, and climbed the summit of Rocky +Head before the sun rose; in the ascent we crossed several deep ravines +which, together with the hills, were thickly covered with a wiry grass +(spinifex) growing over and amongst heaps of rocks that were piled up in +all directions as if it had been done purposely; the greater part of the +surface of the island being covered with these stones, we had a +considerable difficulty in advancing, and it was not without some labour +that we arrived at the summit of the hill. Here the view was very +extensive; the coast to the eastward of Cape Preston trends inward and +forms a bay, the shores of which are very low. The land on which we were +appeared to be the south-westernmost island of a considerable +archipelago; and the land to the eastward was observed to be rocky and +high, in comparison to the low sandy country we had been lately passing. + +From Dampier's description of Rosemary Island I was, at first, induced to +think that we had landed upon the identical island he visited; but this +error was soon discovered. An island to the northward, on which are three +hummocks, was soon recognised as Captain Baudin's Ile Romarin, it +therefore bears the name of Rosemary Island in my chart, and I have no +doubt of its being that under which Captain Dampier anchored, but not the +one upon which he landed. To the eastward of Enderby Island, a strait of +nearly two miles wide separates it from Lewis Island; and between Enderby +and Rosemary Islands is Goodwyn Island. The shores of the bay were +plentiful in shell-fish, particularly oysters; and beche de mer* were +also abundant in the crevices of the rocks; but there were no traces of +this part of the coast having been visited by the Malays, who annually +visit it to the eastward, for the purpose of taking that animal. The +tracks of natives and their fireplaces were everywhere visible and around +the latter the bones of kangaroos and fishes were strewed. + +(*Footnote. Trepang, a species of Holothuria (Priapulus sp., Lam. iii. +76), an animal collected by the Malays for the Chinese market. Vide +Flinders Terra Australis volume 2 pages 231 and 257.) + +On the north side of Rocky Head, in a ravine, under the shade of a ficus, +eight or ten gallons of water were found and brought on board; and near +it on a spot of tolerable soil Mr. Cunningham sowed some peach-stones. + +February 26. + +At daylight we left this anchorage, and proceeded to penetrate to the +eastward towards a deep bight or strait; the wind was, however, so light, +that we were compelled to anchor until the sea-breeze set in, when the +vessel was again under sail, and proceeded onwards. As we advanced, three +natives were seen in the water, apparently wading from an island in the +centre of the strait towards Lewis Island: the course was immediately +altered to intercept them, but as we approached, it was discovered that +each native was seated on a log of wood, which he propelled through the +water by paddling with his hands. Having hove to close by them, they +became much alarmed, and cried out in loud tones which were increased +when our boat was lowered and despatched after them; but it was not +without the greatest difficulty that Mr. Bedwell succeeded in bringing +one on board. On the boat's coming up with the nearest Indian, he left +his log and, diving under the boat's bottom, swam astern; this he did +whenever the boat approached him, and it was four or five minutes before +he was caught, which was at last effected by seizing him by the hair, in +the act of diving, and dragging him into the boat, against which he +resisted stoutly, and, even when taken, it required two men to hold him +to prevent his escape. During the interval of heaving to and bringing him +on board, the cutter was anchored near the central island, where a tribe +of natives were collected, consisting of about forty persons, of whom the +greater number were women and children; the whole party appeared to be +overcome with grief, particularly the women, who most loudly and +vehemently expressed their sorrow by cries, and rolling on the ground, +and covering their bodies with the sand. When our captive arrived +alongside the vessel and saw Boongaree, he became somewhat pacified, and +suffered himself to be lifted on board; he was then ornamented with beads +and a red cap; and upon our applauding his appearance, a smile +momentarily played on his countenance, but it was soon replaced by a +vacant stare. He took very little notice of anything until he saw the +fire, and this appeared to occupy his attention very much. Biscuit was +given to him, which, as soon as he tasted, he spat out, but some sugared +water being offered to him, he drank the whole; and upon sugar being +placed before him, in a saucer, he was at a loss how to use it, until one +of the boys fed him with his fingers, and when the saucer was emptied, he +showed his taste for this food by licking it with his tongue. He was then +taken to the side of the vessel from which his companions were visible, +when he immediately exclaimed, with much earnestness, and in a loud +voice, "coma negra," and repeated the words several times. After he had +been on board for half an hour, during which time he had been greatly +caressed, in order to induce him to give a favourable account of us to +his companions, he was taken half way towards the shore in our boat, and +then launched upon his log, to which was lashed an axe, and around his +neck a bag was suspended containing biscuits, and a little of everything +that he appeared to fancy or be amused with during his short captivity. + +As soon as he perceived himself clear of the boat he paddled away, and in +a short time reached the shore and joined his terrified companions; who, +upon his approaching them, ordered him to stand at a distance until he +had thrown away his red cap, the bag, and the axe, and had answered +several questions which they were apparently putting to him. All this +time they had their spears poised and pointed towards him, and stood +huddled together in the greatest alarm; the women were kept away, but +their curiosity was so much excited that, although they were more +terrified than the men, they were seen peeping over the bushes and rocks +which concealed them, and attentively watching what was going on. Our +friend stood in the position of, and as motionless as, a soldier at +drill, and answered all their interrogatories and inquiries without +making the least movement. He was soon allowed to approach nearer, and +then the whole party cautiously advanced, with their spears still poised, +and surrounded him. His body was then carefully examined; and upon the +women and children being allowed to approach, they seated themselves in a +ring and placed him in the middle, when he told his story, which occupied +about half an hour. Upon its being finished, they all got up, and, after +shouting and hallooing to us, they went to the opposite side of the +island, leaving our presents upon the beach, after having carefully +examined them. + +Before sunset Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham pulled towards the island in the +jolly-boat: on its approach the natives came down and appeared anxious +for the crew to land; but the shore was too rocky to admit of doing so +with security, and after making the natives a few presents, to obtain +which they waded up to their arms in the water, the party returned. The +natives were much amused with Boongaree's appearance, and frequently +addressed him, but his answering them in a strange language surprised +them very much; on his taking off his shirt they shouted loudly, and were +delighted; but on the return of the boat on board without our party's +landing, they were evidently much disappointed. + +Our late captive was noticed in the background, but did not approach the +boat: he was, for an Australian, a well made man, and was at least six +feet in height. His hair was long and curly, and in it was stuck a short +sharp-pointed stick; he wore his beard long, no teeth were wanting in his +jaws, and there was no appearance of the septum narium having been +pierced: at every three inches between the upper part of the chest and +navel his body was scarified in horizontal stripes, the cicatrice of +which was at least an inch in diameter, and protruded half an inch from +the body. He could not have been more than twenty-two or three years of +age; and as for the other characteristics of spare limbs, long arms and +large head, he was a perfect facsimile of the inhabitants of the eastern +coast. + +During the night their fires were seen on the island, and some were also +noticed on the mainland to the southward. + +February 27. + +Early the next morning the natives came down to the beach, and called out +loudly to us; but the glare of the sun, rising immediately over them, +prevented our distinguishing their movements. After this they +disappeared, and when we visited the island in the afternoon, we found +that they had left it: their shouting to us in the morning was therefore +to inform us of their departure, and was probably intended to convey to +us their farewell. + +Upon landing at the island, we directed our steps to their huts, which +were of most miserable construction, being nothing more than a bush stuck +in the ground, and forming only a very indifferent shade. Here we found +the presents, which had been given to our late captive, deposited +carefully on the ground; but the bag, instead of having been opened at +the mouth, was torn asunder near the seam at the bottom; a fishing line +that had been given to him was also left behind, which surprised us the +more because the native had one of his own making attached to his log, +and therefore must have known its use. + +It appears that the only vehicle by which these savages transport their +families and chattels across the water is a log of wood; that which we +had brought alongside with our captive friend was made of the stem of a +mangrove tree; but as it was not long enough for the purpose, two or +three short logs were neatly and even curiously joined together end to +end, and so formed one piece that was sufficient to carry and buoyant +enough to support the weight of two people. The end is rudely ornamented, +and is attached to the extremity by the same contrivance as the joints of +the main stem, only that the two are not brought close together. The +joint is contrived by driving three pegs into the end of the log, and by +bending them, they are made to enter opposite holes in the part that is +to be joined on; and as the pegs cross and bend against each other, they +form a sort of elastic connexion, which strongly retains the two +together. When it is used, they sit astride and move it along by paddling +with their hands, keeping their feet upon the end of the log, by which +they probably guide its course. Such are the shifts to which the absence +of larger timber has reduced these simple savages: they show that man is +naturally a navigating animal; and this floating log, which may be called +a marine-velocipede, is, I should suppose, the extreme case of the +poverty of savage boat-building all round the world. + +The island is composed of a rocky basis, covered by a thin layer of sandy +soil. On the summit of the bluff east end of the island was observed one +of those immense nests that were seen at King George the Third's Sound, +the base of which measured seven feet in diameter. Whilst examining the +nest, some natives were descried on an adjoining island, and as our +principal object was to communicate with these people, we immediately +re-embarked and sailed towards it. On approaching the island, we overtook +two natives on their logs, who, on perceiving that we were pulling +towards them, became frightened, and made violent gestures as if +imploring us to go away. Four or five unarmed natives were standing on +the shore of the island, and watched our proceedings; and, upon our +sheering off and pulling away from the natives upon the logs towards a +sandy beach, the party on the shore walked a few steps towards it also, +and invited us by signs to go ashore. Upon the boat's touching the beach, +I landed, and taking Boongaree with me divested of his clothes, walked +towards the natives, who were standing together, a little in the rear of +one, who was probably their chief. The whole party were trembling with +fear, and appeared quite palsied as we approached and took the chief by +the hand. A little coaxing, and the investiture of a red cap upon the +chief's head, gradually repossessed them of their senses, and we were +soon gabbling each in our own language, and therefore mutually +unintelligible. + +In a short time I obtained permission, which was asked for and granted by +signs, for the rest of our party to approach. The chief who had been +attired as above-mentioned was thought by Mr. Cunningham to be one of +those who waded into the water to receive the presents from him the +preceding evening: he was very inquisitive about our clothes, and +expressed the greatest astonishment at everything he noticed about us. He +ridiculed our repugnance to partake of a piece of the raw gut of a turtle +which he offered to us, and to expose our folly, ate a piece, which he +appeared to think a dainty, although it was quite fetid from +putrefaction. Our attempts to collect a vocabulary of their language were +quite unsuccessful. An axe, some chisels, and other tools were given to +them, but they expressed no pleasure in receiving the presents, or +astonishment at their effect. On our making signs for water, they all +simultaneously pointed to an island bearing North-East from the one on +which we were. + +We now prepared to embark, and walked towards the boat accompanied by +these friendly savages, hand in hand; but as they drew nigh, a +water-spaniel belonging to me leapt out of the boat and began to bark, +which alarmed them so much that some of them ran off, and kept aloof +until we began to play with and caress the dog; and when they recovered +their fright, they were highly amused with his swimming after some pieces +of wood that were thrown into the water. + +Boongaree was of course the object of their greatest attention: the +fashion in which his body was scarred was the subject of particular +remark; and when he pointed at the sea, to show them whence he came, they +set up a shout of admiration and surprise. + +We now took leave of these friendly Indians, and went through the +ceremony of shaking each other by the hand, a mode of taking leave they +appeared perfectly to understand. No women made their appearance, but +there was every reason to believe that they were close at hand, for +several natives were seen from the cutter concealed close to us, armed +with spears ready to repel any attack we might have made, and to defend +the women and children of their tribe. + +The boat was then steered towards the island to which the natives had +directed us; but as we pulled along its shore in search of a +landing-place, a party of twenty or thirty Indians were observed +descending the rocky hills towards the beach, with an evident intention +of preventing our going ashore; and upon our pulling into a small bight, +where there was some appearance of a stream of water, they threatened us +with spears and stones; at the same time loudly vociferating and pointing +to us to retire. Much unintelligible parley now ensued, during which we +endeavoured to convince them that we only wanted fresh water, and had no +intention of molesting them; but although they appeared perfectly to +understand our meaning, they were determined upon resisting our attempt +to land. A stone thrown at us by one of the foremost, who stood half up +to his middle in the water, was an earnest of their hostile intentions if +we persisted, and they were on the point of assaulting us with a shower +of spears, when we pulled out and returned on board, leaving the Indians +masters of the field. There was no mischievous feeling in their conduct +towards us, for we were in their power, and had they been inclined, they +might have speared the whole of our party before a musket could have been +fired by us. Their object seemed to be merely to get rid of us, and in +this they completely and very fairly succeeded, for our party was not +numerous enough to force a landing without resorting to means which would +have entirely destroyed the friendly intercourse we had just held with +the last tribe, and for which we were perhaps solely indebted to the +opportune capture that we made upon our arrival. + +In consequence of the communication that we had with these natives, the +group between Lewis Island and the main was called The Intercourse +Islands. + +February 28. + +Early the next morning, we left the anchorage, and took up a fresh +station off the North-East end of the island from which we were repulsed. +On our passing the north side of it, we saw no marks of fresh water; if +there be any, it must be from rain-water collected and preserved in the +holes of the rock. As we passed the east point, two natives were observed +crossing over to the main upon their logs, and this was the last we saw +of them. + +Hence the strait takes a northerly direction, and was named Mermaid's +Strait, after our little vessel which had thus first sailed through it. +Mr. Roe, in the afternoon, examined an opening in the land to the +eastward of our anchorage; but found it to be overrun with mangroves, and +entirely destitute of fresh water. + +1818. March 1. + +The next day we steered through the strait. Three openings were observed +on the eastern side, which appeared to be straits separating as many +islands; the northernmost was called Gidley Island. To the north of Lewis +Island is Malus Island, the north east end of which is formed by a high +bluff point, named Courtenay Head; whose summit, from its elevation and +position, appeared to offer so good an opportunity of obtaining a +bird's-eye view of a great part of the Archipelago, that the cutter was +anchored in a bay under its west side; and as soon as the vessel was +secured, we landed and climbed the Head, and were repaid for the trouble +by a very extensive view, and a useful set of bearings of the islands and +rocks in its vicinity. + +Malus Island is of the same formation as Enderby Island, and is clothed +with the same kinds of plants. The ravines are deep, and the sides of the +hills are covered with the same stone, of which a pile was erected on the +summit of the head to mark the spot where the circumferentor was placed. +Some turtle tracks were seen upon the beach; and when we returned to the +vessel Mr. Bedwell landed to watch for their coming on shore, but none +appeared, and since we found no eggs, it is probable that the young had +already taken to the water. + +March 2. + +The next morning we sailed, and attempted to steer round the western side +of Malus Island; but were prevented from passing between it and Rosemary +Island by the shoalness of the water. There is, however, every reason to +believe that in mid-channel the water is deep enough for any purpose; but +as our persisting would have answered no end, we steered across Mermaid's +Strait, and by sunset were abreast of Cape Bruguieres, so named by +Captain Baudin, round which the land trended to East by South, forming +the south side of a shoal strait, separating Gidley Island from Captain +Baudin's Legendre Island: the latter is a narrow, long, rocky island, +lying East-South-East and West-North-West, and is of a lower character +than the islands to the southward of it. We anchored under the North-West +end of this island. + +March 3. + +But the ground was so uneven and rocky that we considered ourselves +fortunate in recovering the anchor the next morning without breaking it; +for during the night the anchor dragged and hooked a rock; on weighing +it, however, the rock proved to be rotten and broke away. The strait +between Legendre and Gidley Islands is full of shoals, which at daylight +being dry, were covered with immense flights of pelicans and other +water-fowl. + +During the day and following night we were becalmed off the north side of +Legendre Island. + +March 4. + +The next day we passed round its South-East end, and, at sunset, anchored +in a deep bay. Off the South-East end of Legendre Island the sea is very +full of reefs and dry rocks, but between Hauy and Delambre Islands there +is a safe channel of nine and ten fathoms deep. + +The bay in which we had anchored was called, at Mr. Roe's request, +Nickol's Bay; it is open only to the North-East, and affords safe +shelter, with good holding-ground. At the bottom of the bay, on both +sides of a projecting point of land, on which three round-backed hills +were conspicuous, the coast falls back, and forms two bights, the western +of which is backed by very low land, lined with mangroves; and may +probably contain a small rivulet: the other is smaller, but the land +behind it is higher than in the western bay, which of the two appears to +be of the most importance; but as the tide did not flow at a greater rate +than a quarter of a knot, very little was attached to any opening that +may exist there. + +At this anchorage we experienced another squall, similar to that off Cape +Preston, but not so severe; the sand was blown over us from the shore, +although we were at least two miles distant from it. + +March 5. + +The next morning we steered to the eastward, along the land, and soon +after noon passed round Captain Baudin's Bezout Island; a projecting +point within it was named in compliment to my friend Aylmer Bourke +Lambert, Esquire; behind which a range of hills extends to the +South-South-East for five or six leagues, and then trends to the +eastward, toward a group of islands named by the French Forestier's +Archipelago, the principal of which is Depuch Island. Near this we +anchored in five fathoms sandy ground. Our course from Cape Lambert was +parallel with the beach, and although we were not more than from three to +five miles from it, yet it was so low that it could not be seen from the +deck; and even from the masthead it was but very indistinctly traced; nor +indeed is it quite certain that what we did see was really the shore of +the mainland. + +March 6. + +The vessel rode out the night rather uneasily on account of the wind +blowing a fresh breeze from the South-East, which freshened up when the +sun rose with such strength from the same direction that we were +prevented from landing upon Depuch Island. We passed the group at one +mile off; it consists of six islands, all of which, with the exception of +Depuch Island, are small and of a low sandy character. Hence the coast +trended to the North-East by East, but it was soon lost to view, for the +wind would not permit our making better than a North-East course. Before +noon we passed within a quarter of a mile of a part of the Geographe's +Bank, which was nearly dry; it lies twenty-two miles North-East from +Depuch Island. + +Upon comparing my chart with Captain Dampier's description of the +Rosemary Islands, there appears to be little doubt but that M. De +Freycinet is justified in his conjectures, that the islands, called by +them Romarin and Malus, are those seen by that navigator. My conclusion +results from his description of the place he landed at, for he says: + +"We were now on the inner side of the island, on whose outside is the +bluff point: we rode a league from the land, and I presently went on +shore, and carried shovels to dig for water, but found none. There grew +here two or three sorts of shrubs, one just like rosemary, and, +therefore, I call this Rosemary Island. It grew here in great plenty, but +had no smell...In the sea, we saw some green turtle, a pretty many +sharks, and abundance of water-snakes, of several sorts and sizes. The +stones were all of a rusty colour and ponderous."* + +(*Footnote. Dampier Octavo 1729 volume 3 page 90.) + +The rosemary plants were found by us on Enderby Island, and bore a strong +resemblance to the figure of one given by Dampier, which he thus +describes: Conyza Novae Hollandiae angustis rorismarini foliis: this +plant, found at Enderby Island, may naturally be supposed to grow upon +the other islands, since they are all similar in character. Enderby +Island he certainly did not visit, but I take Malus Island to be that on +which he landed, and the bluff, which he describes as the east end of the +island, is no other than our Courtenay Head, for it is the only land of +that character hereabouts, and is visible from the deck of a large ship, +at the distance of seven leagues. In the bearing that Dampier saw it, +namely, South-East, our Rosemary Island would appear to be joined to +Malus Island, and hence his opinion that it was "an island five or six +leagues in length, and one in breadth." + +In one of his draughts (Number 9), he gives a view of the head, bearing +East-South-East, six leagues; and this bearing and distance, applied to +our Courtenay Head, will cross the latitude of 20 degrees 21 minutes, +which is that noted in the draught; and in the next draught (Number 10), +when the head bears South-East by South, two black rocks are inserted, +bearing South-East by East, and a point of land East: the black rocks +readily answer to the two flat rocks of my chart, and the land about +Gidley Island will bear East. No light can be thrown upon the subject +from his drawings of the headlands, since they are too minute to be +compared with nature. + +That the Montebello Islands are not the Rosemary Islands is evident, from +their being low, having no bluff head, and from their not being visible +so far as Dampier saw those he described. No other land can answer as to +latitude but Rosemary, Malus, Legendre, or Gidley Islands; but, on the +two latter, there is no decided bluff, and when bearing South-East by +South, no land could be seen bearing East. The rocks of Malus Island, on +which we landed, are "of a rusty colour, and ponderous,"* and the bluff, +as I have before remarked, very conspicuously forms the east end of the +island. + +(*Footnote. Vide Appendix C.) + +Dampier remarks that Rosemary Island is two hundred and thirty-two miles +east of the meridian of Shark's Bay; this, applied to the longitude of +that place, will make it in 117 degrees 12 minutes, which is only 35 +minutes east of my Courtenay Head. + +This group was named by the French Dampier's Archipelago, and as there is +ample proof of its being the place which that navigator visited, the name +has been admitted by us; but we have also extended it to the islands +forming the east side of Mermaid's strait, which are laid down by the +French as a part of the mainland. + + + +CHAPTER 2. +Examination of Rowley's Shoals, and Passage to the North Coast. +Survey of Goulburn Islands, Mountnorris and Raffles Bays. +Meet a Malay Fleet, and communicate with one of the Proas. +Explore Port Essington. +Attacked by Natives in Knocker's Bay. +Anchor in Popham Bay. +Visit from the Malays. +Examination of Van Diemen's Gulf, including Sir George Hope's Islands and +Alligator Rivers. +Survey of the Northern Shore of Melville Island, and Apsley Strait. +Interview with the Natives of Luxmore Head. +Procure wood at Port Hurd. +Natives. +Clarence Strait. +Leave the Coast, and arrival at Timor. + +1818. March 6. + +The south-east wind, which set in on the morning that we left our +anchorage off Depuch Island, continued to blow with thick misty weather, +and made us conjecture that the westerly monsoon was nearly expended; we, +therefore, steered off the coast with the intention of proceeding to the +eastward towards Cape Arnhem, after ascertaining the position of a shoal +that was seen by Captain Rowley, in H.M.S. Imperieuse, in 1800, and of +two others that are described by Captain Horsburgh to be in its vicinity. +They are situated according to the above authorities as follows, namely: + +Imperieuse Shoal (south end): latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, longitude +118 degrees 37 minutes. + +Shoal seen by the ship Good Hope (north end): latitude 17 degrees 47 1/2 +minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes. + +Shoal seen by Captain Clerke (north part): latitude 17 degrees 28 +minutes, longitude 119 degrees 2 minutes. + +The last is described by its discoverer, to be 230 miles North 49 1/2 +degrees East (Magnetic) from the north part of Rosemary Island, which +would assign to that island a situation in 20 degrees 6 minutes latitude, +and 116 degrees 6 minutes longitude; but on this parallel there is no +land to the westward of 118 degrees 40 minutes. The shoal, according to +Captain Horsburgh's account, is 264 miles North, 49 degrees East (true) +from Trimouille Island, the north-easternmost of the Montebello Group, +which must be the one taken by Captain Clerke for Rosemary Island. + +March 6 to 12. + +After leaving the land, the weather was very dull and damp for six days, +during which the wind being light and baffling prevented any progress. +Fortunately we were free from sickness, otherwise the heavy rains that +fell would have caused a considerable inconvenience to the crew, by +confining them to the same small cabin with the sick. Happily, however, I +heard of no complaints. + +March 13. + +And on the 13th at noon, the weather began to clear up with a freshening +breeze from the South-East, and soon veered to a steady wind from +South-South-West. + +March 14. + +We then steered East to make the shoal, and at sunset the next evening it +was seen about three miles off, when we sounded with 170 fathoms of line +without getting bottom. + +March 15. + +During the night we stood off to the westward, and early in the morning +made the shoal again: at noon, it was close to us, at which time our +latitude was by observation 17 degrees 33 minutes 12 seconds, from which +I deduce the situation of the north end of the shoal to be in: + +Latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes 24 seconds: +Longitude 118 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds: + +the longitude being ascertained by chronometers from Depuch Island, +corrected afterwards for our arrival at the north coast. + +On rounding the north end of the shoal, soundings were ineffectually +tried for, with 120 fathoms: soon afterwards, we bore up on an eastern +course, and in the evening saw another extensive shoal; within two miles +of the south end of which we sounded with 170 fathoms of line without +reaching the bottom. + +The south end of the second shoal, is in: + +Latitude 7 degrees 28 minutes 5 seconds: +Longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes 00 seconds: + +It stretches in a North-West direction for seven or eight miles, and to +the eastward the breakers extended beyond the masthead horizon; its +limit, therefore, in the latter direction, remained undetermined. + +March 16. + +The next morning a third shoal was discovered, the south-east end of +which, is in: + +Latitude 17 degrees 12 minutes: +Longitude 119 degrees 35 minutes. + +These dangerous reefs were named Rowley's Shoals, in compliment to the +discoverer of the westernmost (the Imperieuse), the situation of which is +assigned by me to be 13 minutes 30 seconds to the eastward of Captain +Rowley's account: the middle shoal, seen by us last evening, is certainly +the one that Captain Clerke saw; but the third or north-easternmost, +distinguished by the Mermaid's name, seems to be a new discovery. + +On the north end of the Imperieuse shoal rocks were distinguishable, and +some were also seen near its centre above the level of the sea: all other +parts were under water. On the middlemost shoal no rocks were uncovered; +but on the south-east end of the Mermaid's Shoal several were observed. +These reefs are of a coral formation, and are very dangerous to approach +at night, from their vicinity being unfathomable to the depth of 170 +fathoms; still, however, the surf that constantly breaks upon them may be +heard at a great distance, and will generally be sufficient to warn the +navigator of his danger. + +March 23. + +On the 23rd we passed the meridian of Cape Van Diemen, in latitude 10 +degrees 48 minutes. The same evening some land was indistinctly seen +bearing South. + +March 24. + +The ensuing daylight discovered to us several islands in the +South-South-East, having previously shoaled our soundings from 31 to 10 +fathoms; and during the morning we steered through them. + +The group contains several low coral-formed islands; the +north-easternmost of which proved to be the New Year's Island of +Lieutenant McCluer of the Bombay Marine; they are covered with a shrubby +vegetation, and are severally surrounded by a coral reef: the principal +of them were named Oxley's, McCluer's, and Lawson's Islands, and a larger +and higher island in the South-South-West was named in compliment to my +friend Captain Charles Grant, C.B., of the Royal Navy, under whose +auspices I entered the naval service. + +We steered on to the East-South-East through the first part of the night, +with every prospect of reaching Cape Arnhem, where our examination of the +coast westwardly was to commence. + +March 26. + +But at midnight the wind changed to the eastward, and at daylight (26th), +the land was visible from south to South-West. At ten o'clock we fetched +in close to a low sandy point, and then bore up to the westward along the +coast, which appeared, as it afterwards proved to be, a part of the main. +The low point which commenced our survey was called Point Braithwaite, +and one mile North-West from it is Point Hall: the shore then trends five +miles to the westward to Point Cuthbert, from which a shoal communication +extends towards a rock on which the sea broke: we passed within the rock, +carrying two and a quarter fathoms; and then hauled in for a point of +land, called after my friend Captain G.H. Guion, R.N.; but not succeeding +in finding anchorage under it, we bore away along the shore, and at night +anchored off Point Turner. Between Points Guion and Turner is a deep but +rocky bay, at the bottom of which is an appearance of an opening lined +with mangroves: to the westward of Point Turner is another bay, which +circumstances did not then allow of our examining. From our anchorage the +land was traced as far as North-West, and appeared to be an island +separated from the main by a strait. + +March 27. + +The next day we passed through it, and anchored in a bay on the +South-West side of the island, at about half a mile from the beach. The +Strait was named Macquarie Strait, after the late Major-General Lachlan +Macquarie, who administered the government of New South Wales for a +period of nearly twelve years. + +As the shores of the bay, in which we had anchored, appeared likely to +afford both wood and water, of which articles we were much in want, I was +induced to take advantage of the opportunity, and immediately made +preparation to commence these occupations. In the evening a pit was dug +for water, which oozed so fast into it, that we did not anticipate any +difficulty on that head, and the wood was both plentiful and convenient +to the beach. + +It was now about the termination of the rainy season, and everything bore +the most luxuriant appearance; the grass, which covered the face of the +island, was more than six feet high, and completely concealed us from +each other as we walked to the summit of the hill, the sides of which +were very thickly wooded. Upon the edge of the beach, the pandanus, the +hibiscus, and a variety of other tropical trees and shrubs were growing, +and the sand was variegated with the long-stemmed convolvulus in full +flower. + +The trees upon the hills were principally a small-sized eucalyptus, which +we cut for firewood, but the stem was generally found to be unsound, and +totally useless for any purpose excepting for fuel. Among the flowers +that were strewed about the island was a superb shrubby grevillea, with +scarlet flowers. The casuarina grew also near the sandy beach but it +seemed to prefer the exposed parts near the extremities of the sandy +projections of the land where no other tree would grow. The wood of this +tree appeared to be of a closer grain, and of a darker colour than the +species that is usually found upon the north coast. + +The only edible fruit that we found was a small black grape: it bore a +very inferior resemblance to the common sweet-water grape, but the leaf +and habit are altogether different. + +The centre of the bay is formed by a sandy beach; it is terminated by +cliffs of about forty feet in height, the upper stratum of which appeared +to be an indurated clay of a very red colour, occasioned by the +ferruginous nature of the rocks and soil; the lower part is a stratum of +the whitest pipe-clay, the upper limit of which, from the surface having +been washed clean by the late rains, was so defined and produced so +striking a contrast in point of colour as to give the whole a most +remarkable appearance. + +At the distance of ten miles behind the beach of the mainland, which is +very low, there is a continued ridge of rocky hills which was named +Wellington Range, and behind them is the Tor, a remarkable rock that +stands alone. The range is about twenty-five miles in extent, and its +summit has a very irregular outline; it is visible for eight or nine +leagues. + +March 28. + +The morning after our arrival a baseline was measured upon the beach for +the survey of the bay, and whilst we were thus employed our people found +and brought to me several traces of Malays, who, as we are informed by +Captain Flinders, make annual visits to this part of the coast in large +fleets, to fish for beche de mer. + +Among the relics were old broken joints of bamboo, which the Malays use +to carry their water in, some worn out cordage and a coconut, which had +perhaps been left behind by accident. The traces appeared to be of so +recent a date, that we conjectured the fleet was but a short distance to +the eastward of the islands, and as the easterly monsoon had commenced, +we were naturally in daily expectation of being overtaken by them. Our +operations, therefore, were hurried, since we could not tell what might +be the result of encountering them, as we were totally incapable of +defending ourselves, should they be mischievously inclined. A look-out +was therefore kept for their approach, and our people were held as much +as possible within sight, so that we might be prepared to weigh and leave +the place as soon as they should make their appearance. + +The hole which had been dug for water was half full, but it was so +brackish as to be quite unfit for use. + +Upon further search a small pond was found by Mr. Cunningham in a hollow, +at the back of the beach; but in the course of the day a run of water was +discovered by Boongaree, at the north end of the beach, oozing out from +the base of the pipe-clay cliffs, which proved upon examination to yield +better water than the former, besides being very much more convenient to +obtain. + +Our wooding-party commenced operations the day after we arrived, and, on +their returning on board at night, imprudently left their tools on shore. + +March 29. + +The next day, whilst the people were at dinner, Boongaree, whose eyes +were constantly directed to the shore, espied five natives among the +grass, which was so high as nearly to conceal them, walking towards our +wooding-place; and, as they proceeded, it was perceived that they had +stolen one of our station-flags, four of which had been erected on the +beach to mark the baseline. On reaching the place where our people had +been employed, three of the natives began to throw down a pile of wood +that had been heaped up ready to embark, whilst the fourth crept on his +hands and knees towards the other station-flags, and succeeded in +carrying off two more before he was observed; but as he was on the point +of taking the fourth he was detected, and two muskets were fired at him, +upon which he fled into the woods, followed by his companions, carrying +with them all our wooding tools. + +During the morning a canoe, containing six or seven natives, had been +seen on the opposite shore under Point Ross; but it had disappeared, and +had probably brought the party over who had just robbed us. Mr. Bedwell +suggested the idea of their having landed round the south point of the +bay, where, if so, their canoe would be found. He was accordingly +despatched to bring it away as a reprisal for our stolen flags and tools, +and upon his pulling round the point he saw several natives standing by +the canoe, which was hauled up on the beach. On the boat pulling in, one +of the natives poised a spear, but he retreated with his companions into +the wood the moment that our party landed, without throwing it. The canoe +was then launched and brought on board. It appeared to have originally +belonged to the Malays, for it was made from a log of teak; it was +seventeen feet long and two feet broad, and had probably been either +captured or stolen by these natives. During Mr. Bedwell's absence I +landed, to observe some distances between the sun and moon, and this task +was completed without interruption; the thieves were seen all the +afternoon standing among the trees, watching our movements; and upon our +making an excursion in the evening towards the north end of the bay, they +were observed to follow us armed with spears, but they did not show +themselves, since they probably perceived we were prepared to receive +them. + +Before dark the canoe was hoisted up to the stern, and our other boats +were secured under it; notwithstanding which the natives swam off, and, +when everything was quiet, cut the whale boat's moorings, without being +detected, and swam away with her in tow; it was, however, discovered in +time, and the boat recovered before the tide had drifted her out of +sight. + +March 30. + +Early the next morning the cutter was removed nearer to the +watering-place that Boongaree had found, and in doing this we were +watched by ten or twelve natives, who were standing as they thought +concealed among the trees. This afforded us so good an opportunity of +expressing our anger at their attempt to steal our boat, and of showing +them that we were not Malays, that we fired a shot from a six-pounder +carronade over their heads, the report of which for a moment scared them; +but their alarm was only momentary, for they soon afterwards recovered +from their fright and continued to watch us as before. + +As soon as the vessel was secured, our watering party commenced their +operations, and had been employed for half an hour without interruption, +when the natives suddenly appeared on the brink of the cliff that +overhung the beach, and threw several large stones at our people, which +slightly wounded three of them, before the muskets could be fired, upon +which the Indians retreated into the woods. The attack having been +observed from the vessel, the jolly-boat was dispatched to the shore with +assistance, and with orders to Mr. Bedwell to keep the whale-boat moored +at about fifteen or twenty yards from the beach with muskets ready to +fire, so that with this protection the watering-party were enabled to +continue their task without molestation. In the course of the day the +natives collected again behind the trees, and were at one time advancing +towards the cliffs, but being seen from the cutter a shot was fired over +their heads, which deterred them from coming forward. This hostile +conduct of the natives induced me to give up our intention of wooding at +this island; since the Indians might easily advance under cover of the +thick underwood, and throw their spears before we could be aware of their +approach. As soon, therefore, as our watering was completed, I determined +upon procuring our fuel from an island to the northward, which, during +our visit, we had seen from the North-West point of the bay, and which, +together with the one we were at, were called Goulburn Islands, in +compliment to the then Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies. + +1818. April 1 to 4. + +During our stay, Sims' Island, named at the request of Mr. Cunningham +after Dr. Sims, the eminent conductor of the Botanical Magazine, was +twice visited. It is situated in front of South-West Bay, is about two +miles and a half in circumference, and formed of a large and coarse +granular quartzose sandstone, large rounded masses of which cover the +surface at its northern end, the summit of which was named Sansom's Head. +Sims' Island furnished a very large addition to Mr. Cunningham's +collection, and among the flowers which it produced was a very beautiful +sweet-scented asclepias. No snakes nor reptiles of any description were +seen, but birds of various sorts were abundant, particularly the white +cockatoo. Of the sea-fowl, a species of tern was the most numerous. An +alligator, about fifteen feet long, swam about the vessel for some time, +which made us afterwards rather cautious of walking through the high +grass; but excepting a dog that followed the natives, no quadrupeds were +seen. + +Off the north point of the bay, at the distance of a furlong, and +separated from it by a channel of from twelve to fifteen feet deep, are +two rocks of the same formation as those on Sims' Island; on the largest +was deposited a bottle containing a record on parchment of our visit. On +this rock all our observations were taken, excepting a few at the south +end of the sandy beach, before the natives showed themselves: the +longitude of Bottle Rock was subsequently determined to be 133 degrees 19 +minutes 40 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. Vide Appendix A Section X.) + +April 6. + +We left South-west Bay on the 4th, and the following morning anchored in +a bay on the west side of North Island, and on the 6th we commenced +cutting our wood from a group of casuarinas that grew close to the beach. + +In the afternoon, when our party returned on board to dinner, some +natives were perceived examining our wooding-place, but our late +experience had taught us the precaution of bringing our tools away, to +prevent any further occasion of quarrel. They did not stop long but +walked on, as if they had some other object; at about forty yards farther +they halted again, and concealing themselves as they thought behind a +bank, they watched us for half an hour; after which they walked away and +disappeared among the trees. + +April 7. + +On our revisiting the shore, we traced their steps through the grass, and +came up with a shallow well containing fresh water, which they had +evidently taken the opportunity of our absence to drink at. Upon further +search we found their encampment; it consisted of three or four dwellings +of a very different description from any that we had before, or have +since seen: they were of a conical shape, not more than three feet high, +and not larger than would conveniently contain one person; they were +built of sticks, stuck in the ground, and being united at the top, +supported a roof of bark, which was again covered with sand, so that the +hut looked more like a sand-hillock than the abode of a human creature: +the opening was at one side, and about eighteen inches in diameter; but +even this could be reduced when they were inside, by heaping the sand up +before it. In one of the huts were found several strips of bamboo, and +some fishing-nets, rudely made of the fibres of the bark of trees. + +Mr. Cunningham took the advantage of a good spot of soil in the vicinity +of our wooding-place to sow every sort of seed that we possessed, namely, +peach, apricot, loquat (a Chinese fruit), lemon, seventeen sorts of +culinary seeds, tobacco, roses, and a variety of other European plants; +and in addition to these, the coconut was planted, which we had found +upon the beach of South-West Bay, but it is very doubtful whether any +have succeeded, on account of the custom that the natives have when the +grass is dry, of setting fire to it, so that there is little doubt but +that all the annual plants have been destroyed. + +The bay was called Mullet Bay, in consequence of the immense shoals of +that fish which were seen near the shores, and of which Boongaree speared +several with his fiz-gig. The trepang were found about the rocks on the +beach in great numbers, as they were also on the South Island. + +April 8. + +On the 8th we left Mullet Bay, and made an unsuccessful attempt to beat +round the north end of the island, and to return by steering through the +strait that separates the Northern from the Southern Island: we were, +however, prevented by the freshness of the wind, and the strength of the +current. + +April 10. + +On the 10th, we bore up with the intention of returning to South-West +Bay. On approaching it, however, we were surprised with the sight of the +Malay fleet steering through Macquarie Strait, towards two of their proas +that had already anchored in a sandy bay on the South-West side of Sims' +Island. It was therefore determined that we should proceed as far to the +westward before nightfall as we could, and as the bay to the South-East +of Sims' Island had not been sufficiently seen by us, we steered off so +as to reconnoitre the proas, and improve the survey at the same time. + +As soon as we had reached the island, all the vessels but one had +anchored, and their crews were busily engaged in passing to and from the +shore in small canoes, apparently watering. We passed by at a small +distance with our colours flying, which was answered by each hoisting a +Dutch jack; but one of the proas, which was thought to be the Rajah's +vessel, bore a blue flag in addition. Some stragglers on the rocks who +appeared to take no part in the labours of the rest, and who were +probably the chiefs, waved repeatedly to us to stop; but as their +acquaintance could render us no service, I declined their invitations. +Our presence did not appear to have excited any particular bustle amongst +them, but every precaution was taken on our part to repel any attack. The +proas, which were fifteen in number, appeared to be of twenty-five to +forty tons burden, and the fleet contained altogether at least three +hundred men. + +The evening was too far advanced to make any particular examination of +the sinuosities of the bay; but, after passing Sims' Island, our course +was sufficiently near the coast to perceive the general outline of the +beach as far as Point Brogden, off which we were at sunset. To the +eastward of Point Brogden, which is more elevated than other parts, the +coast assumes a cliffy character, and trends to the North-West towards De +Courcy Head, which we reached before dark. + +April 11. + +During the night we were under weigh, and at daylight were near Grant's +Island, which we had seen on the 24th of last month: we then steered for +the land, and reached De Courcy Head by eight o'clock, and were on the +point of hauling round Cape Cockburn, to explore a bay that trended in on +its western side, when the Malay fleet which we passed the preceding +evening were seen standing towards us. Not liking to enter it until they +had passed by, we made a trip off shore, but to our great mortification, +no sooner had they reached the cape, than they hauled in to the bay, and +anchoring there, prevented, for the present, our visiting it; we had no +wish, in our defenceless state, to form a better acquaintance with so +suspicious a crew. + +As the land to the westward of Cape Cockburn trended deeply in to the +South-West, and formed a deep bay, we steered on to examine it, whilst +the Malays occupied the anchorage in what we afterwards called Malay Bay; +then passing through a strait separating Point Annesley from Valentia +Island, we entered Mountnorris Bay, and after coasting for some distance, +until the bottom of the bay was visible, we anchored near the eastern +shore, and passed the night. + +The coast from Valentia Island to our anchorage is principally formed by +sandy beaches, the continuity of which is broken by projecting rocky +heads, one of which is Point Coombe. Valentia Island is low and thickly +wooded, and partakes of the monotonous appearance of the mainland, which +is equally covered with low, small, and apparently-stunted trees. + +April 12. + +At day-dawn the Malays were observed making a move, and as each proa got +under sail, it steered towards us. The anchor was, therefore, immediately +weighed, and we prepared to receive them as formidably as our means +allowed. Their number was now increased to twenty-one vessels, by their +having hoisted out six large canoes; but as they approached there was no +appearance of any hostile intention, since some of them steered across +the bay, and only a few continued to direct their course towards us. One +of the canoes came near with the intention of visiting us, but not liking +too intimate an acquaintance with them, we pointed to our carronade, and +beckoned to them to go away, which they immediately did. One of the proas +soon afterwards passed by with Dutch colours displayed, to which its crew +repeatedly pointed, at the same time hailing us in an unintelligible +jargon, of which Macassar and Trepang were the only words that were +distinguished. They also pointed to the North-West, but whether this was +intended to convey to us the direction of the place whence they came, or +the course they were about to steer, was not very evident. In a short +time the fleet had passed by, and as we were under weigh we returned to +the examination of Malay Bay, in which nothing worthy of note was found. +It affords good anchorage during the easterly monsoon on a muddy bottom +in from four to five fathoms, but its shores are low and its beaches +rocky, and so uninteresting, that we returned to our previous anchorage +in Mountnorris Bay. + +April 13. + +The next day we landed on Copeland Island and from its summit obtained +extensive bearings for the survey of the bay. The island is surrounded by +a coral bank; its north side is formed by a perpendicular argillaceous +cliff of a bright yellow colour, and is a conspicuous object to vessels +entering the bay. Behind the cliff to the south the land gradually +declines and runs off to a low point; the whole surface of the island is +covered with trees, among which a beautiful hatchet-shape-leafed acacia +in full bloom was very conspicuous. The other trees were principally of +the eucalyptus family; but they were all of small size. On the west side +of the island was a dry gully, and a convenient landing-place, near to +which a bottle was deposited, containing a parchment record of our visit, +and of the names bestowed upon the bays and islands hereabout. + +Three natives were observed walking along the sandy beach, at the bottom +of the bay; but they passed on without taking the least notice of our +presence. + +We left the anchorage on the 13th, and crossed the bottom of the bay +within Copeland Island: then steering up the west side we passed a large +opening, trending to the North-West. Here we were detained for some time, +by grounding upon a sandbank. But by keeping the sails full, the vessel +dragged over it, and we resumed our course to the northward, along the +west side of Mountnorris Bay; and, at sunset, anchored between it and +Darch's Island, which protected us from both the wind and swell, during a +very squally night. Darch's Island, so named after my esteemed friend, +Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty, is, like Valentia Island, very +thickly wooded. Its eastern side is a continued bluff cliffy shore, but +the north and south ends are low, and terminate with a shoal; which, off +the former, is of rocks; and near its extremity is a single mangrove +bush, which was seen and set from Copeland Island's summit. + +April 14. + +The next morning, at daylight, we passed round the north extremity of the +island, which was named Cape Croker, in compliment to the first secretary +of the Admiralty; and anchored on the north side of a bight round the +cape, which was subsequently named Palm Bay. + +In the afternoon we landed, and ascending the hill or bank behind the +beach, obtained a view of the coast of the bay: a distant wooded point, +called, from its unusual elevation, High Point, bounded our view to the +south; but to the South-West some patches of land were indistinctly +visible. Tracks of natives were seen in many places, and the marks of +footsteps on the beach had been very recently impressed. On the bank a +circular spot of ground, of fifteen yards in diameter, was cleared away, +and had very lately been occupied by a tribe of natives. The island is +thickly wooded with a dwarf species of eucalyptus, but here and there the +fan palm and pandanus grew in groups, and with the acacia, served to vary +the otherwise monotonous appearance of the country. The soil, although it +was shallow and poor, was covered with grass, and a great variety of +shrubs and plants in flower, which fully occupied Mr. Cunningham's +attention. As we proceeded through the trees, a group of lofty palms +attracted our notice, and were at first supposed to be coconut trees that +had been planted by the Malays; but on examining them closer, they proved +to be the areca, the tree that produces the betel-nut and the toddy, a +liquor which the Malays and the inhabitants of all the eastern islands +use. Some of these palms were from thirty to forty feet high, and the +stem of one of them was bruised and deeply indented by a blunt +instrument. + +Having spent several hours on shore, without finding anything very +interesting or at all useful to us, we returned on board, when we found +that we had been watched by three natives, who had walked along the +beach, but on coming near us, had concealed themselves among the trees, +from which they had, probably, observed all our movements whilst we were +on shore. They were perhaps deterred from approaching us from our +numbers, and from the muskets which each of us carried; for our +experience of the disposition of the natives at Goulburn Island had +taught us prudence, and no boat was, after that affair, permitted to +leave the vessel without taking a musket for each man. It was, however, +fortunate for us that we were not often obliged to resort to them for a +defence, for the greater number of the twelve that we possessed were +useless, notwithstanding they were the best that could be procured at +Port Jackson when the vessel was equipped. + +The rocks on the beach and the stones which are scattered about the +surface of the ground are all of a ferruginous nature, and appear from +their colour and weight to contain a large portion of iron; but the +needle of the compass was in no way affected by being placed near them. +The soil is also highly coloured by the oxide of iron, and it is this +that gives the cliffs of this part of the coast, particularly the upper +portion of them, the red appearance that they almost universally possess. + +April 15. + +The next day we went to High Point, which was found to be the east head +of a moderate-sized port, affording good anchorage and perfect security +during either monsoon. A sufficient inducement to bring the cutter thus +far presented itself; and as it was near sunset, our remarks were merely +confined to bearings from the point. + +April 16. + +On preparing to weigh the next morning, four Malay proas were observed +steering across the bay out of an opening which trends round the south +head of Palm Bay, and which proved to be a strait communicating with +Mountnorris Bay. It was named after my friend James Bowen, Esquire, one +of the Commissioners of the Navy. As soon as the proas had reached a +sufficient distance to leeward, we got under sail; and on rounding the +south point of the bay, and opening the strait, the remaining proas of +the fleet that we had previously seen, were observed at anchor close to a +sandy beach on the north shore, and their canoes to the number of twenty +were fishing on the opposite side of the strait. The latter, on observing +us, hoisted their sails, and returned to their proas; but as it was not +considered prudent to examine the port until they had passed by, its +exploration was deferred, and we returned to our anchorage in Palm Bay. +We had not, however, to wait long, for the proas left Bowen's Strait the +next morning, and crossed the bay to the westward. Our anchor was weighed +immediately, and we steered towards their sternmost vessel, in order to +communicate with her, and to show her a letter with which we had been +kindly provided by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, written in the Malay +language, and explanatory of our occupation. On running alongside the +proa, the letter was displayed, but they appeared frightened and +unwilling to bring to, and repeatedly pointed towards the headmost proa +in which their Rajah sailed. + +Since our object could not be effected without communicating with their +Rajah, and as another opportunity might offer at some future time of +communicating with these people, it was abandoned for the present; and we +steered into the bay, and anchored within a small island at the entrance, +in time to observe the sun's meridional altitude. The evening was spent +in pulling round the bay, the shores of which are low, and so overrun +with mangroves, that landing was in most parts impracticable; but a small +break in them being observed under a cliff, we put ashore to examine the +country. Here we found two streams of fresh water, one of which ran over +the beach with some force; but they appeared to be only the drainings of +the country, and to be merely of temporary duration. The soil was here +very good, but the trees and underwood were so thick that we did not +venture far from the boat. A native's basket was found, and the usual +signs of their having lately been hereabouts. We also landed on a +projecting point, at the bottom of the bay, to obtain bearings; and a +second time under a remarkable cliffy point on the west side, from the +summit of which another set of bearings were obtained, which completed +the survey of the port; and we named it Raffles Bay, in compliment to Sir +Stamford. + +At night, the seine was hauled under High Point, and procured us a good +mess of fish. + +April 19. + +We left Raffles' Bay on the 19th in the morning, and ran along the +western shore to the North-West point which we passed round; and, +steering between it and a low sandy island, entered a bay, at the bottom +of which was an opening, but we were prevented from entering it by shoal +water. + +The next point to the westward is Point Smith, and at the distance of a +mile from it, is a ledge of rocks on which the sea constantly breaks. We +passed close round the reef, and hauled into a very considerable opening +about six or seven miles wide, and at least five or six leagues deep. At +the bottom of this inlet was some higher land than usual, and among it +two flat-topped hills were very conspicuous. The eastern shore of the +port, for such it proved to be, is formed by a succession of rocky +points, between which were ranges of red cliffs, much higher than any we +had yet seen, and, if possible, more thickly wooded. As the day was far +spent, we anchored on the east side under one of the cliffs, and during +the night, the dismal howling of native dogs was heard close to the +vessel, a noise that was very frequently heard by us whenever we +anchored, and passed a calm night near the shore. + +April 20. + +The next morning, before we got under weigh, we landed at the mouth of a +small salt-water inlet, which trended in among the mangroves: having +climbed a hill, we had a distinct view of the bottom of the port, which, +at the distance of eight miles higher up, closed to a narrow opening, and +then widened to a spacious inner harbour. The country is here thickly, +and in some parts almost impenetrably, clothed with eucalyptus, acacia, +pandanus, fan palms, and various other trees; whilst the beaches are in +some parts studded, and in others thickly lined with mangroves. The soil +is chiefly of a gray sandy earth, and in some parts might be called even +rich; there were, however, very few places that could bear so favourable +a character. The climate seems here to favour vegetation so much that the +quality of the soil appears to be of minor importance, for everything +thrives and looks verdant. + +Having returned on board we got under weigh, and steered for the narrow +opening at the bottom of the port. On reaching it, the water deepened, +but we were obliged to anchor, and sound the channel, before we succeeded +in entering the inner harbour, which we found to be a spacious sheet of +water, divided into two bays by a projecting cliffy point, which from its +situation was called Middle Head. There we remained at anchor until the +23rd, during which time the shores of the inner harbour were examined, +and visits made to various parts of it. + +The shores of the inner harbour are thickly wooded to the beach, which is +fronted by mudflats, that at low water are dry for a considerable +distance. + +On the western point of entrance, we found the remains of a wrecked +canoe, and upon further search Mr. Bedwell discovered a spear which was +altogether different from any that we had before seen; it was headed with +a sharp pointed splinter of quartz, about four inches long, and an inch +and a half broad; the shaft was of the mangrove-tree, seven feet eight +inches long, and appeared, from a small hole at the end, to have been +propelled by a throwing-stick; the stone head was fastened on by a +ligature of plaited grass, covered by a mass of gum: it was the most +formidable weapon of the sort we had ever yet seen. + +April 22. + +At the bottom of the western basin one of our people found the skeleton +of a human body; and the skull and some of the bones were brought on +board, but they were too imperfect to be worth preserving. The traces of +natives were found every where, but they did not show themselves. In one +of our excursions a tree was observed that had been cut down by some +sharp instrument, and we had afterwards reason to believe that the +natives were possessed of iron tools, which they might have obtained from +the Malays. A curious mound, constructed entirely of shells, rudely +heaped together, measuring thirty feet in diameter, and fourteen feet in +height, was also noticed near the beach, and was supposed to be a +burying-place of the Indians. + +April 23. + +Upon leaving the inner harbour we anchored in Knocker's Bay, on the west +side of the port, which received the name of Essington, a tribute of my +respect for the memory of my lamented friend, the late Vice-Admiral Sir +William Essington, K.C.B.: and in the afternoon we set off to examine an +opening in the mangroves at the bottom of the bay. After pulling through +its various winding channels for about a mile, where it was scarcely +broad enough for the boat to pass, its further investigation was given +up, and we commenced our return, but the mangroves were so thick, and +formed so impervious a net-work, that we had great difficulty in +effecting it. When about halfway towards the mouth, we found the boat +impeded by the roots of a mangrove bush; and whilst the boat's crew were +busily employed in clearing the rudder, we were suddenly startled by the +shout of a party of Indians, who were concealed from our view by a +projecting bush, not more than eight or ten yards from us: our situation +was rather alarming, from the boat being so entangled, and the river not +being broad enough for the oars to be used. No sooner had the natives +uttered the shout, than they leaped into the water armed with spears and +clubs; but the moment they made their appearance round the tree, two +muskets loaded with ball, and a fowling-piece with small shot, were fired +over their heads, which had the desired effect, for they gave up their +premeditated attack, and quickly disappeared among the bushes on the +opposite side, where they remained screaming and vociferating loudly in +angry threatening voices, whilst we were clearing the boat from the +bushes that obstructed our progress. Having at last effected this, we +proceeded on our way down the rivulet, and at the same time the natives +were observed through the bushes to hasten towards a low part, which we +were obliged to pass before we could reach the bay. But as we were aware +of their intention we were prepared for the event, and as was expected, +we were assailed by a shower of spears and stones from the natives, who +were concealed behind the mangroves. Happily, however, we received no +damage, although the spears and stones fell about us very thickly, and +several of the former struck the boat. A volley of musketry was fired +into the mangroves, but we could not ascertain whether any of the balls +took effect, since we could not see our assailants. A wound from one of +their stone-headed weapons, from our want of surgical knowledge, must in +such a climate have proved fatal, and we considered our escape truly +providential. As soon as we were out of the reach of their spears, which +they continued to throw until it was of no use, we hoisted the sail, and +steered round the shores of the bay. We had not proceeded far before +their canoe was observed secured to the beach by a small rope, which +offered so good an opportunity of punishing these savages for their +treacherous attack, that we landed and brought it away; and upon +examining its contents, we found not only their clubs, but also a large +quantity of bivalve shellfish, (Arca scapha?*) so that we had not only +deprived them of their boat, but of their supper, and three very +formidable clubs. This must have been a very serious loss to such simple +savages, but one that they richly deserved. The canoe was nearly new, it +measured eighteen feet in length, and two in breadth, and would easily +carry eight persons; the sides were supported by two poles fastened to +the gunwhale by strips of a climbing plant (Flagellaria indica), that +grows abundantly hereabouts, and with which also the ends of the canoe +were neatly, and even tastefully joined; the poles were spanned together +on either side by rope constructed of strips of bark. The canoe was made +of one sheet of bark, but in the bottom, within it, short pieces were +placed cross-ways, in order to preserve its shape, and increase its +strength. The description of a canoe seen by Captain Flinders at Blue Mud +Bay, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, differs very little from the above.** + +(*Footnote. Lamarck tome 6 part 1 page 42. Chemn. Conch. 7 page 201. t. +55 f. 548.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders Terra Australis volume 2 page 198.) + +Whilst we were bringing away the canoe the natives, who had followed us +along the shore, were heard close by among the trees, loudly +vociferating, in which the ward ca-no-a was thought to be frequently +used. + +April 24. + +The next morning we sailed out of Knocker's* Bay, and anchored a little +within Point Smith, preparatory to our resuming our examination of the +coast. The heat was now by no means oppressive, for although the +thermometer ranged between 79 and 86 degrees, yet its effect was lessened +by the constancy of the breeze, which tended materially to preserve the +health of the crew, who were happily all quite well. + +After anchoring, a squall that had been gathering all the afternoon burst +overhead, and was accompanied by heavy rain and strong gusts of wind, +during which a canoe that had been previously observed near the beach +drifted past the cutter; it was sent for and brought alongside, but the +next morning before we got under weigh, it was taken on shore, and hauled +up on the beach out of the reach of the water, and in it were deposited +several iron tools, to show the natives that our intentions were +friendly. + +During our examination of Port Essington, we found no fresh water, but +our search for it did not extend beyond the precincts of the sea-beach, +since we were not in want of that article, having so lately completed our +stock at Goulburn Island; but from the number of natives seen by us, and +the frequency of their traces, which were encountered at every step we +took, there must be fresh water; and had we dug holes, we should +doubtless have succeeded in finding some, particularly in the vicinity of +the cliffs. + +Wood is abundant and convenient for embarking, but the trees are +generally small: the waters are well stocked with fish. + +As a harbour, Port Essington is equal, if not superior, to any I ever +saw; and from its proximity to the Moluccas and New Guinea, and its being +in the direct line of communication between Port Jackson and India, as +well as from its commanding situation with respect to the passage through +Torres Strait, it must, at no very distant period, become a place of +great trade, and of very considerable importance. + +April 25. + +Early the following morning we sailed out of Port Essington, and passing +round its western head, which was named out of respect to my friend +Admiral Vashon, we hauled into a bay where a Malay encampment was +observed upon the beach, with several proas at anchor close to it; but, +as the place offered us no inducement to delay, we steered round the next +head, and hauled into another bay, apparently about four miles deep and +two broad. The coast here appeared to take a decided turn to the +southward, and, as some land was observed on the western horizon, we +rightly concluded that we had reached the entrance of the Great Bay of +Van Diemen, the examination of which formed a prominent feature in my +instructions. The bay was named Popham Bay, and the extremity of the land +in sight received the appellation of Cape Don; the former after the late +Rear-Admiral Sir Home Popham, K.C.B., and the latter in compliment to +Lieutenant-General Sir George Don, K.C.B., the Lieutenant-Governor of the +fortress of Gibraltar. The two flat-topped hills, seen from Port +Essington, were also observed over the bottom of the bay, and being +conspicuous objects, were named Mounts Bedwell and Roe, after the two +midshipmen who accompanied me. + +As we steered into the bay another division of the Malay fleet was +perceived at anchor on the eastern shore, close to an encampment: the +number of the proas were four; and as we considered ourselves a match for +this number, we determined upon remaining the night, and therefore +anchored about two miles without them, with our ensign hoisted at the +masthead over a large white flag, which was answered by each proa +instantly displaying Dutch colours. + +Soon afterwards a canoe came from the proas, but it required some +persuasion to entice them alongside; when they did come, we showed them +Sir Stamford Raffles' letter, which they could not read, but on our +showing them our rough chart they instantly comprehended our employment, +and without further hesitation, two of them came on board. The canoe was +fitted for fishing; it was paddled by a man and five boys, and was +steered by a younger man, who, from his dress and authority, appeared to +be of some consequence amongst them. During their visit their curiosity +was much excited by everything they saw; and, having drank pretty freely +of our port wine, they talked incessantly. They remained with us three +hours, during the greater part of which their canoe was absent catching +fish. One of our visitors was very communicative, and by means of signs +and a few words of the Malay language, which we understood, he explained +that their Rajah's proa was armed with two small guns, and carried a +compass. On looking at our binnacle, they pointed to the north-west +rhumb, and made us easily understand that it was the course they always +steered on their return to Macassar. + +Upon mentioning the natives of the coast and showing them the +stone-headed spear that we had found, they evinced their dislike to them +very plainly, they called them Maregas, Marega being, as we afterwards +found, their appellation for this part of the coast. + +It was now growing late, and as the canoe had not returned, they hailed +their companions several times, but not being answered, they asked for a +musket, and fired it in the direction of their boat; this had the desired +effect, and it very shortly came alongside, but the crew had not been +successful, for they had caught only two small fishes which were +presented to us: they then took leave, repeatedly assuring us that the +next morning they would pay us another visit. + +April 26. + +But, without waiting for the honour they intended us, we got under weigh +early and left them to comment as they pleased upon our disappointing +them of the gunpowder, which, to get rid of them, we had promised to give +them the next morning. + +Being under sail, we steered to the West-South-West, until the land +opened round Cape Don in an east-northerly direction for eight miles, and +then the coast trended to the south-eastward under Mounts Bedwell and +Roe, where the land was lost to view. To the westward the land was +observed trending in a north and south direction, and bore the appearance +of being an island. + +The ebb now commenced setting out, and although we were going three knots +through the water, we made no progress over the ground. Seven miles West +by South from Cape Don we sounded in fifty fathoms on a bottom of +branch-coral, and four miles more to the westward we had but nineteen +fathoms. When the flood commenced, it was too dark to profit by it. + +April 27. + +And no progress was made until the next morning, when, having a fresh +breeze, we reached an anchorage in a bay on the north side, and close +under the base of Mount Bedwell. On our way we steered through strong +tide-ripplings in which, at times, notwithstanding the strength of the +breeze, the cutter was quite ungovernable. Off the bay is a low mangrove +island which I had the pleasure to name after the Reverend James W. +Burford, of Stratford, Essex, and the bay in which we had anchored was +called after W. Aiton, Esquire, of the Royal Gardens at Kew. + +The bottom of Aiton Bay is shoal and apparently terminates in an inlet or +creek; at low water the tide left a considerable space dry that appeared +to extend from shore to shore. + +Our distance from the beach was so short that the howlings of dogs were +distinctly heard, and other noises were distinguished which some of us +thought were made by natives, but they were more probably the screams of +birds. + +April 28. + +At daylight the next morning we steered round the land, and passing under +the base of Mount Roe, we entered a strait that separates it from +Greenhill Island; which is remarkable for having its north-west end +terminated by a conspicuous bluff. The coast now took an easterly +direction as far as the eye could reach, with a channel of from three to +eight miles broad between it and a range of islands (which were named in +compliment to the late Vice-Admiral Sir George Hope, K.C.B., then holding +a seat in the Board of Admiralty). At noon the tide began to ebb, when we +anchored near the land at about six miles east of Mount Roe. + +The thermometer now ranged between 80 and 90 degrees, but the heat was by +no means oppressive. + +April 29. + +By the next day at noon we had penetrated four leagues within Sir George +Hope's Islands, when the water became so shoal that we could not approach +an opening that was seen in the land to the south-eastward; after trying +in several directions, the cutter was anchored, and Mr. Roe was sent to +sound in a south direction in search of a passage out; but, as it +appeared to be shoal and some parts were already dry, it was decided that +we should return by the way we came; since our object was not so much to +lay down the extent of the banks and directions of the channels, as to +find rivers, and trace the coastline. The opening to the South-East of +our anchorage certainly appeared to be sufficiently interesting to +examine, but we had formed very sanguine expectations of discovering +something of much greater importance at the bottom of the bay, and we +were naturally anxious to reach it as soon as possible. + +On constructing the chart of this part of the coast, it appeared that the +land to the eastward of this anchorage is an isthmus four or five miles +in breadth, separating the body of water from the bottom of Mountnorris +Bay. The peninsula thus formed was honoured by the appellation of +Cobourg, after His Royal Highness Prince Leopold. + +During the day large smokes were observed on the south horizon, without +any appearance of land near them. + +1818. May 1. + +On our way out we anchored under one of Sir George Hope's Islands, which, +on the occasion of our landing upon it the next morning (1st May), was +called May-day Island: it is about two miles long, and nearly the same +distance across; its formation appears to have been originally of sand +that has accumulated upon a rocky basis, and has gradually grown into an +island; it is thickly covered with a forest of dwarf trees and +impenetrable brushwood. Some recent impressions of a human foot on the +sand below high-water mark were seen, and several old fireplaces, and one +or two of more recent date were observed, around which were strewed the +remains of shell-fish repasts; the natives, however, did not make their +appearance. + +When returning on board we endeavoured to pass out between May-day and +Greenhill Islands, but a bar of sand that appeared to stretch across +obstructed our progress: the weather being fine and the sea very smooth, +we endeavoured to force her over, but as we did not succeed, we anchored +for the night near our former position, to the eastward of Mount Roe. + +May 2. + +The next day we passed out between the Mount and Greenhill Island, and at +night anchored on the south side of May-day Island, at eight miles +distance from it. + +May 3. + +The following day we made some progress to the South-East, and by the +afternoon obtained a glimpse of some land bearing between South 3 degrees +West and South 18 degrees East. + +May 4. + +And at sunset the next evening the lowland was traced as far to the +southward as South-South-East, upon which several detached hills were +seen which probably may have some connexion with Wellington Range. + +May 5. + +The next day the cutter was anchored within a mile and a half of the +south point of a considerable opening, which the boats were prepared to +examine. + +May 6. + +And at daybreak we commenced its exploration, but the greater part of the +tide was expended before we reached the entrance, which is fronted by a +bank of mud on which there was not more than twelve feet water; the +depth, however, increased after we entered the river to four and five +fathoms; and as we proceeded up we found the channel to be seven and +eight fathoms deep. The banks on either side were very low; they were +composed of a soft mud, and so thickly lined with mangroves as to prevent +our landing until we had pulled up for seven or eight miles. At ten +o'clock the flood ceased and the ebb, setting with considerable strength, +prevented our proceeding higher up: here we landed, and after spending +some time in taking bearings and examining the country, we returned to +the cutter, which we reached early in the afternoon. + +The banks where we landed were about two hundred yards apart, but were so +low and without a hillock to ascend or a tree to climb to enable us to +obtain a view of the country, that we could form but a very slight +opinion of the place. A sugar-loaf-shaped hill, which was also visible +from the anchorage, bore South 80 degrees East; at the distance of a +league was a rocky hill that bore North 88 1/4 degrees East; and, five or +six leagues off, was a range of hills extending from East by South to +South 27 degrees East. In all other directions the eye wandered over a +dreary, low, and uninterruptedly flat country; which in most parts is +covered with an arundinaceous grass. + +The mangrove bushes on the banks of the river, which was quite salt, were +crowded with the nests of an egret, in which the young birds were nearly +fledged. Hawks, wild ducks, pelicans, and pigeons, were also abundant, +and an immense flight of white cockatoos hovered over the mangroves, and +quite disturbed the air with their hideous screamings. A small black +water-bird, about the size of a pigeon, with a white neck and a black +ring round it, was observed, but not near enough to enable us to +ascertain its species. On our course up and down the river we encountered +several very large alligators, and some were noticed sleeping on the mud. +This was the first time we had seen these animals, excepting that at +Goulburn Island, and, as they appeared to be very numerous and large, it +was not thought safe to stop all night up the river, which we must have +done had we remained for the next flood-tide. + +No inhabitants were seen, but the fires that were burning in all +directions proved that they could not be far off. + +May 7. + +The next morning we were underweigh and steering along the coast to the +westward towards a low but extensive island; and, as we approached, we +found that it fronted a very considerable opening in the land, extending +into the interior under the eastern base of Mount Hooper. The channel +between the island and the main appearing clear, we did not hesitate to +pass through, and within half a mile of the island, where the channel was +evidently the deepest, we sounded in eight and nine fathoms. As soon as +we entered the opening it assumed a similar appearance to that of the +river we examined yesterday, but it was very much more considerable and +excited very sanguine hopes in our minds. Besides the low island +above-mentioned there is another of smaller size between it and the west +point of entrance; so that there are three entrances. The islands were +called Barron and Field Islands, after my friend, then presiding as Judge +of the Supreme Court of New South Wales. + +As we proceeded, the depth continued to be so even, and to shoal so +gradually, that we ran up it for six miles, when, as it was near noon, we +anchored and landed on the eastern bank, to observe the sun's meridional +altitude; but, from the muddy state of the banks, we had great difficulty +in reaching the shore. On returning to the vessel, we sailed further up, +and, at high water anchored near the end of the first reach, and made +preparations for its further investigation. The tide then began to ebb at +the rate of three miles per hour, and continued with nearly that velocity +during the whole tide. During the evening our preparations were +completed. + +May 8. + +And, at daybreak the next morning, I set off with Mr. Roe and Mr. +Cunningham for my companions: when we left the cutter the flood was just +making, so that we had the advantage of the whole of the tide, which +lasted until noon, when we landed, and observed the latitude to be 12 +degrees 38 minutes 47 seconds. Our situation was within three miles of a +hill bearing South 25 1/2 degrees West, the bearing of which having +previously been taken from the cutter's present anchorage, enabled me to +decide with tolerable accuracy upon the station we had reached. + +This river, as far as we had examined it, a distance of thirty-six miles, +differed from the other only in being of larger size. At the place where +the latitude was observed, it was about one hundred and fifty yards wide. +From the anchorage the channel deepened from five to eight fathoms, and +this depth continued tolerably even and regular for nine miles. It then +began to decrease; and, at the furthest part we reached the depth at high +water was two and a half fathoms. The banks, which were in most parts +thickly lined with mangroves, and in no part more than three feet above +high-water mark, are formed of soft mud, which rendered landing, except +at high water, impossible. The country on all sides presented a low level +plain, the monotony of which was occasionally relieved by a few wooded +hills, and some groups of trees, among which the palm-tree was +conspicuous, and tended in a trifling degree to improve the view, which, +to say the best of it, was unvaried and heavy. The low land, at least +that part over which the fires had not passed, Was covered with a thickly +matted broom-grass; and, where it was burnt off, the soil was observed to +be composed of a hard and stiff clay, the surface of which bore the +appearance of having been frequently inundated, either by high tides, or, +more probably, by freshes in the rainy season. + +We saw very few birds, and those were chiefly cockatoos; but alligators +were as numerous as in the other river, whence the name of Alligator +Rivers were bestowed upon them. + +The water where we landed was fresh enough to be nearly drinkable, and +probably would be quite sweet at half ebb. + +May 8. + +The ebb-tide did not serve to carry us on board, and the boat's crew were +so fatigued by having been pulling all day, that we were obliged to drop +the grapnel within seven miles of the cutter to await the turn of tide, +so that it was not until midnight that we reached the vessel much +exhausted. + +May 9. + +The next day we left our anchorage, and took up a station within Field +Island, intending, if possible, to go through the passage between Barron +and Field Islands. At low water the banks dried for a considerable +extent. + +May 10. + +But as there was every appearance of the existence of a narrow passage +between the islands, we ran through the next morning at high water; and, +in passing the narrows, had over-falls between three and fifteen fathoms: +as soon as we reached a favourable bottom, we anchored in four fathoms in +order to await the uncovering of the shoals at low water, so that we +might see our way on, and construct the chart of this entrance with more +correctness. Field Island is low and thickly wooded, and is surrounded by +a rocky shoal which dries at low water, and extends to a considerable +distance off its North-West end. The smoke of a fire having been seen on +the island when we passed, it was presumed to have been at that time +occupied by natives. + +Another opening was observed to the westward of the river we last +examined. and as it bore a similar appearance, the name of Alligator +Rivers was extended to it. + +May 11. + +The next morning we resumed our course to the westward; and, after +coasting along a low shore, anchored at night in the South-West corner of +the gulf, in three and a half fathoms; the land, from being so low, was +scarcely distinct, but it appeared to be sandy. + +May 12. + +The next day we passed a considerable opening, or, as it was thought to +be, a bight; for many patches of land were observed on the horizon: The +wind blew so fresh from the eastward that I did not venture to run into +it, but steered towards some land to the northward that formed the +northern boundary of the opening, and which proved to be that which had +been seen by us from Popham Bay; and as it afterwards proved to be an +island, it was called after the title of the noble Viscount, now First +Lord of the Admiralty. + +The Gulf which we have now explored is that which was discovered by three +Dutch vessels that sailed from Timor in 1705, and to which they gave the +name of The Great Bay of Van Diemen. They entered it but did not reach +its bottom, having been very likely prevented by the strong tides which +in the entrance of Dundas Strait are altogether uncommon. From the nature +of the Alligator Rivers there is no doubt but that there are others of a +similar character that empty themselves into the Gulf between the +easternmost Alligator River and Sir George Hope's Islands, although they +are, probably, of smaller size and of less importance. At midnight the +cutter, drifted by the tide, passed close to the easternmost point of +Melville Island near to which two bright fires were burning. + +May 13. + +The next morning at eight o'clock we were within two miles of Cape +Fleeming, the north-easternmost extremity of the island; and, bearing up +along the north coast of Melville Island, passed close to Point Jahleel. +On a sandy beach to the westward of the last point two natives were +walking, but they passed on without noticing our presence. Eight miles to +the South-West of Point Jahleel is Brenton Bay, which we had nearly +passed before it was observed: the vessel was brought to the wind. + +May 14. + +But it was the next morning before we succeeded in fetching into the +opening. It terminates in an inlet which probably runs some little +distance into the interior of the island. It is about five miles deep, +but the depth is so trifling that we were prevented from running into it +far enough to obtain shelter from the wind. In the evening we anchored in +a picturesque bay which, although open to the north, offers a tolerable +shelter during the easterly monsoon: the beach is sandy, but is probably +shoal and of rocky approach. The country appeared verdant, and the hills +are thickly wooded; at the bottom of the bay a shoal opening trends in +between two hills, over which, in the evening, seven natives were +observed to cross in a canoe. This was called Lethbridge Bay. On the +western side of the bay is a range of cliff like the pipe-clay cliff of +Goulburn Island, the upper half being red, and the lower half white; and +four miles off the west point of the bay are two patches of rocks on +which the sea breaks; these were called the Madford Shoals. + +May 15. + +Twenty-five miles west from Lethbridge Bay is a projecting point from +which the coast takes a north-westerly direction. In passing a breaker +that lies off the point our cook fell overboard, but the boat was quickly +lowered and picked him up; for some time his life was despaired of, but a +little attention, and the warmth of the sun's heat, at last restored him. + +On each side of the point which is formed behind Karslake Island is a +bay; and at the bottom of each there appeared to be a shoal opening. The +coast is here higher than usual, and is thickly wooded; but the coastline +to the northward is formed of high cliffs without much wood, and of a +remarkable white colour. + +May 16. + +The next morning we passed round Cape Van Diemen; and in the evening +anchored off a tabular-shaped hill that formed the south end of a sandy +bay. It was dark when we anchored. + +May 17. + +The next morning we found that we had anchored in the mouth of a very +considerable river-like opening, the size of which inspired us with the +flattering hope of having made an important discovery, for as yet we had +no idea of the insularity of Melville Island. + +The table-shaped hill near our anchorage was named Luxmore Head, and the +bay to the north was called St. Asaph's, in compliment to the Right +Reverend the Lord Bishop of that diocese. + +The day being Sunday our intention was, after taking bearings from the +summit of Luxmore Head, to delay our further proceeding until the next +morning, but the circumstance that occurred kept us so much on the alert +that it was anything but a day of rest. Having landed at the foot of the +hill we ascended its summit, but found it so thickly wooded as to deprive +us of the view we had anticipated; but, as there were some openings in +the trees through which a few distant objects could be distinguished, we +made preparations to take their bearings, and while the boat's crew were +landing the theodolite, our party were amusing themselves on the top of +the hill. + +Suddenly however, but fortunately before we had dispersed, we were +surprised by natives, who, coming forward armed with spears, obliged us +very speedily to retreat to the boat; and in the sauve qui peut sort of +way in which we ran down the hill, at which we have frequently since +laughed very heartily, our theodolite stand and Mr. Cunningham's +insect-net were left behind, which they instantly seized upon. I had +fired my fowling-piece at an iguana just before the appearance of the +natives, so that we were without any means of defence; but, having +reached the boat without accident, where we had our muskets ready, a +parley was commenced for the purpose of recovering our losses. After +exchanging a silk-handkerchief for a dead bird, which they threw into the +water for us to pick up, we made signs that we wanted fresh water, upon +which they directed us to go round the point, and upon our pulling in +that direction, they followed us, skipping from rock to rock with +surprising dexterity and speed. As soon as we reached the sandy beach on +the north side of Luxmore Head, they stopped and invited us to land, +which we should have done, had it not been that the noises they made soon +collected a large body of natives who came running from all directions to +their assistance; and in a short time there were twenty-eight or thirty +natives assembled. After a short parley with them in which they +repeatedly asked for axes by imitating the action of chopping, we went on +board, intimating to them our intention of returning with some, which we +would give to them upon the restoration of the stand, which they +immediately understood and assented to. The natives had three dogs with +them. + +On our return to the beach the natives had again assembled, and shouted +loudly as we approached. Besides the whale boat, in which Mr. Bedwell was +stationed with an armed party ready to fire if any hostility commenced, +we had our jolly-boat, in which I led the way with two men, and carried +with me two tomahawks and some chisels. On pulling near the beach the +whole party came down and waded into the water towards us; and, in +exchange for a few chisels and files, gave us two baskets, one containing +fresh water and the other was full of the fruit of the sago-palm, which +grows here in great abundance. The basket containing the water was +conveyed to us by letting it float on the sea, for their timidity would +not let them approach us near enough to place it in our hands; but that +containing the fruit, not being buoyant enough to swim, did not permit of +this method, so that, after much difficulty, an old man was persuaded to +deliver it. This was done in the most cautious manner, and as soon as he +was sufficiently near the boat he dropped or rather threw the basket into +my hand and immediately retreated to his companions, who applauded his +feat by a loud shout of approbation. In exchange for this I offered him a +tomahawk, but his fears would not allow him to come near the boat to +receive it. Finding nothing could induce the old man to approach us a +second time, I threw it towards him, and upon his catching it the whole +tribe began to shout and laugh in the most extravagant way. As soon as +they were quiet we made signs for the theodolite stand, which, for a long +while, they would not understand; at one time they pretended to think by +our pointing towards it, that we meant some spears that were lying near a +tree, which they immediately removed: the stand was then taken up by one +of their women, and upon our pointing to her, they feigned to think that +she was the object of our wishes, and immediately left a female standing +up to her middle in the water and retired to some distance to await our +proceedings. On pulling towards the woman, who, by the way, could not +have been selected by them either for her youth or beauty, she frequently +repeated the words "Ven aca, Ven aca," accompanied with an invitation to +land; but, as we approached, she retired towards the shore; when suddenly +two natives, who had slowly walked towards us, sprang into the water and +made towards the boat with surprising celerity, jumping at each step +entirely out of the sea, although it was so deep as to reach their +thighs. Their intention was evidently to seize the remaining tomahawk +which I had been endeavouring to exchange for the stand, and the foremost +had reached within two or three yards of the boat when I found it +necessary, in order to prevent his approach, to threaten to strike him +with a wooden club, which had the desired effect. At this moment one of +the natives took up the stand, and upon our pointing at him, they +appeared to comprehend our object; a consultation was held over the stand +which was minutely examined; but, as it was mounted with brass and, +perhaps on that account, appeared to them more valuable than a tomahawk, +they declined giving it up, and gradually dispersed; or rather pretended +so to do, for a party of armed natives was observed to conceal themselves +under some mangrove bushes near the beach, whilst two canoes were plying +about near at hand to entice our approach; the stratagem, however, did +not succeed, and we lay off upon our oars for some time without making +any movement. Soon afterwards the natives, finding that we had no +intention of following them, left their canoes, and performed a dance in +the water, which very conspicuously displayed their great muscular power: +the dance consisted chiefly of the performers leaping two or three times +successively out of the sea, and then violently moving their legs so as +to agitate the water into a foam for some distance around them, all the +time shouting loudly and laughing immoderately; then they would run +through the water for eight or ten yards and perform again; and this was +repeated over and over as long as the dance lasted. We were all +thoroughly disgusted with them, and felt a degree of distrust that could +not be conquered. The men were more muscular and better formed than any +we had before seen; they were daubed over with a yellow pigment, which +was the colour of the neighbouring cliff; their hair was long and curly, +and appeared to be clotted with a whitish paint. During the time of our +parley the natives had their spears close at hand, for those who were in +the water had them floating near them, and those who were on the beach +had them either buried in the sand, or carried them between their toes, +in order to deceive us and to appear unarmed; and in this they succeeded, +until one of them was detected, when we were pulling towards the woman, +by his stooping down and picking up his spear. + +Finding that we had no chance of recovering our loss, we returned on +board, when the natives also withdrew from the beach, and did not +afterwards show themselves. + +May 18. + +The next morning we weighed with the flood and worked up the opening +against the wind for sixteen or seventeen miles, when the tide turned, +and we anchored in eleven fathoms. In most parts the banks were +inaccessible, being nearly overrun with mangroves; but the low appearance +of the country within and the mischievous disposition of the natives made +me less anxious to examine into the thick woods that surrounded us on all +sides. Wherever a clear space presented itself, the sago palm was seen +mixed with the fan palm, the pandanus and other trees, among which the +eucalyptus as usual appeared to be the most abundant. + +May 19. + +At eight o'clock the next morning we were again underweigh; and, with the +flood-tide in our favour, made rapid progress. The opening had, however, +become so much contracted, that it was found prudent to have a boat +hoisted out, with the kedge and a hawser ready if the vessel should get +on shore. After proceeding two miles further, it took a more easterly +course, and as we advanced the general direction of the reaches were east +and south. Our speculations ran high with regard to what it might be, and +the probability of its being a large river appeared to our sanguine minds +so certain that we never once fancied it could be otherwise; when +suddenly the open sea appeared, and, demonstrating it to be merely a +strait, at once dispelled our hopes. + +Upon reaching between the two heads which form the south entrance of this +Strait, the tide turned, and, beginning to run so swiftly back that we +were prevented from getting out, obliged us very reluctantly to return to +an anchorage within, which was not easily found, as the bottom was rocky +and thickly studded with shoals. The anchor was at last dropped at three +miles within the entrance near an open cliffy bank, on which there were +two canoes hauled up, but no sign of their owners. + +The night was squally, and the tide ran at the rate of nearly four knots. + +May 20. + +At low water the next morning the shoals were exposed, and showed us the +dangers we had unknowingly encountered in passing over them when they +were covered. The passages between them were found to be so intricate +that, after sounding them for some time, we gave up all idea of passing +out by the south entrance. + +May 21. + +And, returning by the way we came, the next day anchored near our former +position in St. Asaph Bay. + +The Strait was named Apsley; and the land on the western side which had +thus been proved to be insulated was named in compliment to the Right +Honourable Earl Bathurst, his Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for +the Colonies. + +May 22. + +The day following we coasted the North-West side of Bathurst Island; and +at sunset anchored off a point from which a reef projects for a +considerable distance into the sea. + +May 23. + +The next day we anchored off an opening at the bottom of an extensive +bay, in three and a half fathoms. + +It happened to be high water when we anchored; and, although we were +three miles from the shore, the tide of ebb reduced the depth so much +that there was reason to apprehend the cutter's being left dry at low +water; the depth was, however, ten feet and a half, which was only +eighteen inches more than the cutter's draught. + +May 23. + +The opening off which we had anchored was formed between two low, sandy +points, and trended in to the South-East; on the land at the back was a +long round-backed hill, which, when viewed from the northward, had a +flat-topped appearance. + +May 24. + +Having sounded the space between the anchorage and the shore, it was +found that we were on the outer edge of a bar, within which the water +deepened to five fathoms, and in the entrance there was as much as eleven +and twelve fathoms; we therefore weighed the anchor, and, the wind +blowing out, worked up towards the opening, which, as the tide was +flowing, it did not take long to effect. On passing the bar, we had not +less water than eleven feet (low water soundings), after which the depth +gradually increased. An anchorage was taken up in the evening within the +entrance. + +May 25. + +And the next day, after an attempt to reach further up, in which we only +succeeded to the distance of a mile, the examination was completed by our +boat. + +It was found to run in, gradually narrowing and decreasing in depth for +eight miles, and to terminate in two salt-water creeks. The banks on both +sides were impenetrably lined with mangroves, which effectually defied +our attempts to land. Several creeks, communicating with the low +inundated land behind the mangroves, joined the main stream at intervals +on both sides; but they were not interesting enough in their appearance +to detain us. We returned to the cutter at night. + +May 26. + +And the next day shifted our berth to an anchorage close to the shore on +the north side of the entrance, for the purpose of wooding, where the +trees were so convenient and close at hand that we completed our stock +before dark. + +During the evening, whilst we were occupied at the wooding-place, a party +of natives were observed running towards us along the beach on the south +side without the port, apparently returning from a hunting excursion, for +the woods on the south side of the bay had been on fire for the last two +days. As they approached they retired behind the beach among the trees, +and, upon their reaching the opposite side of the entrance, crept upon +their hands and knees behind the bushes, where they remained, as they +thought, concealed until the evening. A little before dark they were +observed to creep out and range themselves upon the beach, as if +meditating upon their plans for the night, but by this time it was so +dark that we could not see what they afterwards did; in order to deter +them from approaching us, a musket was fired over their heads, and if +this had the desired effect, it was a happy circumstance for them, for an +immense shark was caught in the middle of the night, which, from the +extraordinary capacity of its mouth and maw, could have swallowed one of +them with the greatest ease. On opening the animal, we fully expected to +discover the limbs of some of the natives, who we assured ourselves had +crossed over to our side the water; but we only found a crab that had +been so recently swallowed that some of our people made no hesitation in +eating it for their supper. The night passed without our being disturbed +by or hearing anything of the natives. + +May 27. + +But, at daylight, on looking at the place where they had been concealed +during the last evening, a canoe, which had been observed hauled up among +the bushes, was missing, and we concluded that they were close to us; +this proved to be the case, for no sooner had we cleared the point, than +the natives sallied forth from the thicket, and, running up to their +middles in the water to within thirty yards of the vessel, set up a loud +shout which startled us not a little; for, busied as we were in securing +the anchor and making sail, our attention at the moment was otherwise +directed; and the first intimation that we had of their vicinity was from +the noise they made, which was accompanied by violent gestures and +pressing invitations for our return; but we continued on our way, and +disregarded all their solicitations. They were evidently very much +disappointed, since they expected to get some axes from us, for they made +the same signs as the Luxmore Head natives had done by repeatedly +imitating the action of chopping. On the south shore there were some +women and children under the protection of two natives, whose voices were +also loudly raised for our recall. The natives on our side were unarmed, +but two bundles of spears were detected, propped up against a tree, close +at hand. After some time they waded back to the shore, and slowly walked +towards our wooding-place, where they, of course, found a chisel that had +purposely been left for them upon the stump of a tree which had been +felled by our wooding-party. + +As soon as we crossed the bar we anchored, in order to obtain some lunar +distances to fix the longitude of the port, as well as to bring up and +complete the chart of this part of the coast. During the day, the natives +remained at our wooding-place, and set the bushes on fire, the smoke of +which enveloped the horizon and the neighbouring coast. + +The names of Port Hurd and Mount Hurd were given to the harbour and the +round-backed hill, after the late Captain Thomas Hurd of the Royal Navy, +the Hydrographer of the Admiralty; the outer bay was called Gordon Bay. + +May 28. + +We left Gordon Bay the next morning, and passed round its low South-West +extremity, which proved to be Captain Baudin's Cape Helvetius. From this +point the coast trends to the southward to Cape Fourcroy. In this +interval the shore is formed by cliffs of a very dark red colour, and, +half way between, is a projecting sandhill of remarkable appearance. + +May 29 and 30. + +During this and the following day we made very little progress. On the +30th at daylight we had a southerly wind; by eight o'clock we saw the +land in patches to the northward, and some low islands bearing east. The +land to the north was a part of the south side of Melville Island. The +wind being fresh from the eastward we attempted to beat to windward, with +the intention of anchoring near the islands, but the bottom was too rocky +to admit of it. We then endeavoured to pass between them and Melville +Island, but the ground was also so rocky and irregular that we desisted; +and after an unsuccessful attempt to reach the southern pass, we steered +off to the westward. This group was called Vernon's Islands. They are +situated in mid-channel of the Strait that separates Melville Island from +the main, which was named in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke of +Clarence. The group consists of four low islands; they are each +surrounded by a belt of mangroves, and are probably connected by reefs to +the south shore. + +May 31. + +The next morning after a stormy night we steered to the northward, and +made the south entrance of Apsley Strait, which was recognised by the +peculiar shape of Buchanan's Islets lying off it, one of which has a +flat-topped summit. + +The time had now arrived for our leaving the coast: our provisions were +drawing to an end, and we had only a sufficiency of bread to carry us +back to Port Jackson, although we had been all the voyage upon a reduced +allowance: our water had also failed, and several casks which we had +calculated upon being full were found to be so bad that the water was +perfectly useless: these casks were made at Sydney, and proved, like our +bread casks, to have been made from the staves of salt-provision casks: +besides this defalcation, several puncheons were found empty, and it was +therefore doubly necessary that we should resort to Timor, without any +more delay. + +We therefore bore up, and at four o'clock the coast was lost sight of +from: + +Latitude: 11 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds. +Longitude: 129 degrees 47 minutes 0 seconds. + +From this, having ran four miles and a half on a North-West course, we +passed over a small coral bank in thirteen fathoms; at eight o'clock, we +were in forty-two fathoms sandy mud. + +1818. June 1. + +But between midnight and four a.m., we passed over another coral bank, on +which the least water was eighteen fathoms. + +June 2. + +On the 2nd June, two small birds were caught; they proved to be the Java +swallow (Hirundo esculenta), the nest of which is esteemed as a great +delicacy, and is an article of trade between the Malays and Chinese. +Large quantities of pumice-stone were also seen floating on the water; on +one piece was found a sea centipede (Amphinome sp.), about four inches +long, covered with fine bristly hair; it was feeding upon two barnacles +(Lepas anatifera) which had attached themselves to the stone. + +June 3. + +This morning the high land of Timor was seen from North-North-West to +North-West 1/2 West; and at sunset the highest part bore North 70 degrees +West, 30 leagues off. + +June 4. + +At daybreak the 4th we were off the South-West point of the island, and +at nine o'clock entered the Strait of Samow; but, from light winds, we +did not get through it until after noon: at half past two o'clock we +anchored off the Dutch settlement of Coepang, at one-third of a mile from +Fort Concordia, the flag-staff of which bore South-South-East, in four +fathoms and a quarter brown sand and mud. + + + +CHAPTER 3. +Transactions at Coepang. +Procure Water and Refreshments. +Description of the Town and Productions of the Island. +Account of the Trepang Fishery on the coast of New Holland. +Departure from Timor, and return to the North-west Coast. +Montebello Islands, and Barrow Island. +Leave the Coast. +Ship's company attacked with Dysentery. +Death of one of the crew. +Bass Strait, and arrival at Port Jackson. +Review of the Proceedings of the Voyage. + +1818. June 5. + +As soon as we anchored, I waited upon Mr. Hazaart, the Dutch Resident, +who received me politely, and proffered his personal assistance in +expediting the objects which we had in view. A house was offered for my +use, but as I purposed to make my visit as short as possible, it was +declined. + +June 5 to 13. + +The first object was to commence our watering, but the operation was +tedious, and attended with much delay, since it was necessary to send the +casks above the second bridge which crosses the river at the upper end of +the town at about half a mile from the entrance; when we had first to +wait for low tide, before the water was fresh enough to be used; and then +for half flood, before the boat could get out of the river to go on board +with her load. One turn, therefore, was as much as could be made during +the day, for it was requisite to use this precaution in filling our +casks, in order to ensure their contents being untainted by the salt +water. + +Our fuel had been completed at Port Hurd or we could have procured an +abundance at a convenient place about two miles to the westward of the +Fort. + +Our next object was to procure fresh provisions; but, as there was some +difficulty in obtaining a constant supply, Mr. Hazaart kindly presented +the ship's company with two karabows (young buffaloes) and a sufficiency +of vegetables to last until our own stock was provided; but in procuring +it we found much difficulty for want of money, and should not have been +able to have furnished ourselves with it had not Mr. Hazaart, at his own +personal inconvenience, given me money for a private bill, with which the +ship's provisions were purchased. + +A small mountain sheep weighing from twelve to twenty pounds cost five +shillings: pigs, according to their size, from five to ten shillings +each: a karabow, weighing two hundred pounds, was charged twenty +shillings; and fowls were from four-pence to five-pence each. Of +vegetables we found an abundance, particularly of pumpions and cabbages, +in the market; but, as it was not the season for fruit, we only procured +some shaddocks, a few bad oranges, and some indifferent limes. At the +Chinese shops we procured rice, sugar-candy and coffee, but all these +articles were dear, and of very inferior quality: this supply was, +however, very acceptable to us; and, had we not afterwards discovered +that everything could have been procured at half the price, we should +have been well satisfied with our bargains. + +A fleet of Malay proas were lying at anchor in the bay, and two small +trading vessels were in the river, one of which was undergoing a repair +that was very creditable to the shipwrights of this place. + +The only exports that the island produces are bees-wax, honey and +sandal-wood; these are purchased and exported by the Chinese merchants, +who are plentifully distributed over the town, and form the greater +proportion of its population.* Its imports are very trifling, for the +Batavian government annually supplies the establishment of Coepang with +all its wants. The port-charges of twenty dollars for every one hundred +tons burden are so exorbitant that no merchant vessels that have not some +particular object in view, will visit this place; so that it has very +little communication with other parts, excepting through the Chinese +traders, who are constantly in motion. In fact it is, to use the +Resident's own words in describing it to me, "a poor place," and it seems +to be the policy of the Dutch government to keep it so, for no vessel is +allowed to trade with Coepang without having first visited either Batavia +or Amboyna, for the purpose of procuring permission. + +(*Footnote. M. Arago, in his account of Captain de Freycinet's late +voyage round the world, estimates the inhabitants of Coepang at 1500, of +which 1000 are slaves, and 300 Chinese.) + +The town is situated principally on the east bank of the river; which, +rising in the mountains, runs through a torrent-worn course until it +reaches the valley in which the town is built; here the tide meets it, +and at low water its bed is nearly dry: it communicates with the sea by a +shoal bar immediately under a rocky eminence on which the Fort of +Concordia is constructed. This fort, from its favourable situation, +protects the harbour and outer anchorage, as well as commands the town. + +From the anchorage, Coepang presents a very picturesque and lively +appearance. The houses, a few of which are built of stone, are roofed +either with red tiles or thatch, and are shaded from the heat of the sun +by thick groves of trees; among which the breadfruit-tree, the Jaca, and +a species of hibiscus, were observed. The principal street, as is common +in most Dutch towns, is shaded by an avenue of trees, which forms an +agreeable walk, and is a great ornament to the place: at the upper end of +this street is the Company's garden, but its ruinous state shows that it +has long since ceased to be cultivated for the purpose for which it was +originally intended. + +From the crowds of people in the streets a stranger would imagine it to +be a place of great trade, but the only employments of the inhabitants +seem to be those of fishing, making straw hats and carrying water; the +last occupation is principally performed by the women, who convey it in +vessels made of the broad part of the leaf of the fan palm, each +containing from two to three gallons. At the door of every house was seen +either a man or a woman plaiting straw hats, but this might only have +been occasioned by our great demand for them, for we purchased all that +could be made whilst we remained. + +The detail of the coasts of the island, particularly of its south-eastern +side, on which there are many indentations and bays, is very little +known; the natives are reported generally to be favourably inclined to +Europeans, but it would be dangerous for an unarmed vessel to place too +much reliance upon the faith of a Timorean, whose thirst for powder might +induce him to commit any mischievous act to obtain it. The mountaineers +are described to be a warlike race of men, but since the cession of the +island to the Dutch by the King of Ternate, to whom it appears to have +originally belonged, they are distributed under the sovereignty of +different rajahs, to whom they pay implicit obedience; and are, in fact, +little better than mere slaves. On all parts of the coast good wholesome +water may be procured, excepting at Sesally on the north coast where it +is said to be of a noxious quality, occasioned by a tree or plant that +grows on its tanks, and taints the stream. Whatever suspicion there may +be attached to the truth of this story, there is no doubt of its being +far from wholesome; for it is avoided as poisonous by the people who +reside near it. I was curious to discover whether it was occasioned by +its flowing near one of the far-famed Poison trees (Upas antiar) of Java, +but my informant could not satisfy my inquiry. + +The island is very mountainous, and some of its summits, as Captain +Flinders observes, may probably rival the Peak of Teneriffe. The country +slopes off towards the sea, and appears to be fertile and populous. The +recesses of the mountains and the rivulets that derive their sources from +them are said to be rich in gold and silver, and they are also reported +to yield copper and iron; it is, however, with great difficulty that gold +is procured, on account of a superstitious feeling on the part of the +mountaineers, who think it necessary to sacrifice a human life for every +bottle of gold dust that is collected; and this barbarous custom, we were +informed, is rigidly enforced by the chiefs, who, of course, take good +care that the lot does not fall upon their own heads. Gold is however +sometimes found in the bed of the river near Coepang, particularly after +occasional freshes from the mountains, and during the rainy season; but +it is detected in so small a quantity as hardly to repay the searchers +for their trouble. + +Some years since, during the early possession of this part of the island +by the Dutch, sixty soldiers were sent into the country to search for +gold, but they were all killed by the mountaineers and since then no +further attempt has been made; indeed it would take a very considerable +force to effect it, on account of the warlike character of these people. +Their defensive mode of warfare is to distribute themselves in all +directions among the trees and rocks, from which, by their numbers and +unerring aim, they might easily destroy a much larger force than the +Dutch could afford to send against them from any of their possessions in +the east. The policy of the Dutch Government appears to be that of +keeping the world in ignorance of the importance and of the riches of +Timor; their object is, in fact, to retain possession of it at as little +expense as possible, merely to prevent any other country from occupying +it. Much jealousy exists between them and the Portuguese settlement of +Diely, on the northern side about fifty leagues from Coepang; and our +friend Mr. Hazaart was, at the time of our visit, in correspondence with +the government of Batavia to explain some political interference, on his +part, with that settlement. + +The establishment at Coepang consists of the Resident, his Secretary, and +forty Javanese soldiers; besides which it possesses a militia consisting +of 1000 men who bring their own provisions and arms to the field; and by +this force the whole of the south-western part of the island, containing +a population of perhaps 50,000 people, is kept in subjection. To solve +this riddle, for such it must naturally appear to be, it should be +explained that the Dutch have been accustomed to act in the character of +mediator between the several rajahs; and whilst the Resident settles the +disputes, he takes care at the same time to keep up the balance of power +amongst these petty kings, who are constantly encroaching upon the +territories of each other, by calling to his aid and uniting the forces +of the other rajahs; through which policy he protects the oppressed, and +maintains his own power. A formidable chief, Louis, had, however, lately +become very troublesome, and was not so easily kept in subjection. A +short time previous to our arrival, he had been making some inroads upon +his neighbour, and Mr. Hazaart was collecting a force to oppose and drive +him back. Whilst we were at Coepang several rajahs had arrived from the +country to tender their services in marching against the usurper whom the +Resident, in his description of him to me, designated by the name of +Bonaparte. For this protection on the part of the Dutch, every rajah pays +an annual tribute, according to the extent of his territories; the net +amount of which, exceeding the sum of 10,000 rix dollars, very nearly if +not quite defrays the expenses of the establishment. + +Captain Dampier visited this place in 1699 when he commanded the Roebuck; +and at first found great difficulty in obtaining refreshments. He has +given a very good and correct description of the island; and his account +offers much valuable information even as to its present state.* Since +that period it has certainly advanced a few paces in civilization; but in +other respects as to its natural and artificial productions it is +perfectly conformable to that account. + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 pages 157 to 179.) + +Coepang is also known by its hospitable reception of Lieutenant (the late +Admiral) Bligh, after the mutiny of the Bounty's crew; and in 1802 it was +visited by Captain Flinders and Commodore Baudin: each of these +navigators have spoken warmly of the hospitality they experienced, and I +should be doing an injustice to Mr. Hazaart if I omitted a due +acknowledgment of his kind attention to our wants, and of the prompt +assistance he afforded us in our operations. + +The presence of a fleet of Malay proas in the roads has been before +mentioned; it had just returned from an unsuccessful voyage on the south +coast of Timor in search of trepang. Dramah, the principal rajah of this +fleet, gave me the following information respecting the coast of New +Holland, which he had frequently visited in the command of a fleet that +annually frequents its shores. + +The coast is called by them Marega, and has been known to them for many +years. A fleet to the number of 200* proas annually leaves Macassar for +this fishery; it sails in January during the westerly monsoon, and coasts +from island to island, until it reaches the North-East end of Timor, when +it steers South-East and South-South-East, which courses carry them to +the coast of New Holland; the body of the fleet then steers eastward, +leaving here and there a division of fifteen or sixteen proas, under the +command of an inferior rajah, who leads the fleet, and is always +implicitly obeyed. His proa is the only vessel that is provided with a +compass; it also has one or two swivels or small guns, and is perhaps +armed with muskets. Their provisions chiefly consist of rice and +coconuts; and their water, which during the westerly monsoon is easily +replenished on all parts of the coast, is carried in joints of bamboo. + +(*Footnote. This number is perhaps very much exaggerated.) + +The method of curing the trepang is thus described by Captain Flinders: +"They get the trepang by diving, in from three to eight fathoms water; +and where it is abundant, a man will bring up eight or ten at a time. The +mode of preserving it is this: the animal is split down on one side, +boiled, and pressed with a weight of stones; then stretched open by slips +of bamboo, dried in the sun, and afterwards in smoke, when it is fit to +be put away in bags, but requires frequent exposure to the sun. A +thousand trepang make a picol, of about 125 Dutch pounds; and 100 picols +are a cargo for a proa. It is carried to Timor and sold to the Chinese, +who meet them there; and when all the proas are assembled, the fleet +returns to Macassar. By Timor, seemed to be meant Timor-laoet; for when I +inquired concerning the English, Dutch, and Portuguese there, Pobasso +(the rajah in command) knew nothing of them: he had heard of Coepang, a +Dutch settlement, but said it was upon another island. + +"There are two kinds of trepang. The black, called baatoo, is sold to the +Chinese for forty dollars the picol; the white, or gray, called koro, is +worth no more than twenty. The baatoo seems to be what we found upon the +coral reefs near the Northumberland Islands; and were a colony +established in Broad Sound or Shoalwater Bay it might perhaps derive +considerable advantage from the trepang. In the Gulf of Carpentaria we +did not observe any other than the gray slug."* + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 231.) + +After having fished along the coast to the eastward until the westerly +monsoon breaks up, they return, and by the last day of May each detached +fleet leaves the coast without waiting to collect into one body. On their +return they steer North-West, which brings them to some part of Timor, +from whence they easily retrace their steps to Macassar, where the +Chinese traders meet them and purchase their cargoes. At this time (1818) +the value of the trepang was from forty to fifty dollars a picol;* so +that if each vessel returns with 100 picols of trepang, her cargo will be +worth 5000 dollars. Besides trepang, they trade in sharks' fins and +birds' nests, the latter being worth about 3000 dollars the picol. + +(*Footnote. The value of the trepang in 1822 was much less; the price had +fallen to twenty-five dollars the picol.) + +Dramah informed me that there are several rivers upon the coast, but that +in procuring water from them they are generally attacked by the Maregas, +whom they describe as treacherous and hostile, and by whom they are +frequently defeated; for the Indians attack them only when they are +unprepared. Their small canoes are frequently stolen from them, which +accounts for the one we captured from the natives of Goulburn Island. + +A perpetual warfare exists between them, so that it would be a difficult +matter for us to procure a friendly communication with a people who +cannot, of course, discriminate between us and the Malays. I regretted to +hear this, for our force was so small that I feared we should, in our +future visits to the coast, be frequently attacked, and perhaps be under +the necessity of convincing them of the destructive power of our weapons, +which they must first experience before they can dread their fatal +effects. + +During our stay at Coepang the thermometer ranged between 75 and 91 +degrees. The latitude of the flag-staff was observed by several +observations to be 10 degrees 9 minutes 40 seconds. No observations were +taken for the longitude, on account of my being confined to my bed with +an attack of ague, the effects of which remained upon me for some time +afterwards; but the result of those made by Captain Flinders and +Commodore Baudin were so satisfactory that I had no hesitation in taking +the mean of the two, 123 degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, for the +correction of my chronometers, and for the purpose of comparing with the +longitudes I had assigned to several parts of the coast that we had just +left. + +Before we sailed from Coepang the departure of a vessel for Batavia +furnished me with the opportunity of acquainting the Lords Commissioners +of the Admiralty of my progress; and the letter fortunately arrived in +time to contradict a report that had reached England of our "having been +wrecked on the South Coast at Cape Northumberland, and that all hands had +perished." This report could never be satisfactorily traced to its +author, but it was supposed to have been spread by the man who commanded +the Mermaid before she was purchased by the government, in revenge for +his having lost his employment. + +On the 13th we completed everything, and embarked our stock. + +June 14. + +And the next morning at daylight we left the bay, and, passing round the +islands of Samow and Rottee, steered South-West by South (which was as +close to the wind as we could steer to make a direct course) across the +sea, which might, with some degree of propriety, be called the Great +Australian Strait; but this course was too westerly to admit of our +reaching the coast so far to the westward as was wished. + +June 19. + +On the 19th we passed over a coral bank with twenty-six fathoms in +latitude 19 degrees 30 minutes and longitude 116 degrees 15 minutes 30 +seconds. + +The thermometer now ranged no higher than 76 1/2 degrees and obliged us +to resume our warmer clothing. + +June 20. + +At eight o'clock the next morning land was seen bearing South-West by +West, and proved to be that laid down by Captain Baudin, to the southward +of the Montebello Islands; one of which, Trimouille Island, was also +visible in the North-West. We bore up at noon, intending to pass round +the south end of the land, seen in West-South-West; but after running +about five miles further the land proved to be an island, and was called +after John Barrow, Esquire, one of the Secretaries of the Admiralty. We +were prevented from steering round it by a very extensive shoal that +stretches off its south end towards a low sandy islet, which proved to be +one that had been seen by us last February. Several attempts were made to +find a channel through the reef, but without success; and at sunset we +anchored to the north-west of the islet, from which several islands were +recognised by us, particularly a large one to the westward of Cape +Preston. + +As this part of the coast had been previously seen by us, we did not +delay any longer. + +June 21. + +But the following morning steered to the northward. + +June 22. + +The next day we passed round Trimouille Island and left the coast. + +Off the North-West end of Trimouille Island is a considerable reef. +Hermite Island was not seen, but a small lump on the horizon, to the +south of the former, was probably Lowendal Island. As we did not see the +western side of Barrow's Island, that coast is laid down from M. De +Freycinet's chart; the land, although low, is considerably higher than +the usual elevation of the neighbouring islands, but it appeared to be +equally arid and sterile. Trimouille Island appears scarcely better than +a cluster of dry rocks. + +Off these islands we had much calm weather, during which we were +surrounded by myriads of fish, of which sharks, and small whales, called +by the whalers fin-backs, were the most conspicuous. The smaller kinds +consisted of bonetas, barracoutas, porpoises, and flying fish. A +voracious dolphin was harpooned, in the maw of which was a barracouta in +a half-digested state, and in the throat a flying fish, bitten in half, +waiting its turn to be swallowed; for its tail had not disappeared out of +the dolphin's mouth. + +June 24 to 26. + +For a few days we had light south-westerly winds, but they soon gave +place to the South-East trade, which carried us quickly to the +South-West. The situation assigned by the Dutch sloop to the Tryal Rocks +was passed, without our noticing any indication of their existence. + +June 30. + +On the 30th we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, between the 106th and +107th degree of east longitude; the South-East trade then died away, and +was succeeded by light baffling winds, between South-West and South, and +from that to East, attended with very cloudy damp weather, and frequent +squalls of heavy rain. This unwholesome state of the air increased the +number of our sick, for soon after leaving Timor the crew were attacked +by dysentery brought on by change of diet; and at one time the disease +wore a very alarming appearance. + +1818. July 7. + +Having reached with difficulty the latitude of 27 degrees 37 minutes and +longitude 104 degrees 51 minutes, a breeze freshened up, and gradually +veered from South-South-East to East, and East-North-East. + +July 9 to 13. + +Between the 9th and 13th (on which day we passed the meridian of Cape +Leeuwin) we had variable winds between North-East and North-West: on the +9th the wind blew a heavy gale, in which our jolly-boat was washed away, +and obliging us to bear up to the South-East prevented our seeing the +land about Cape Chatham, as had been intended. + +July 14 to 23. + +Between this and King's Island we had strong gales from the westward, +veering, at times, between north and south, with thick and sometimes +rainy weather. During the southerly winds the air was very cold, and +lowered the mercury to 47 and 49 degrees; but when the wind veered to the +north it rose to 55 degrees, and gave us considerable relief. + +On the 23rd soundings were struck off King's Island + +July 24. + +And the next morning we entered Bass Strait by passing round the south +end of the island. Here George Speed, one of our seamen, breathed his +last; his death was occasioned by an excessive indulgence in the +vegetables and fruits obtained at Timor, and he had been sick ever since +we left that place; first with dysentery, and then with an intestinal +inflammation. + +The weather was so bad when we passed through the south entrance to the +Strait that we could make no very particular observation upon Reid's +Rocks, but they appear to be correctly placed by Captain Flinders. + +July 26. + +We did not get through the Strait until the 26th. In passing the Pyramid +it was found to be placed five miles too much to the northward in Captain +Flinders' chart. + +The weather was now thick with heavy rain, and the wind blowing a gale +from West-South-West. I became very anxious to arrive at Port Jackson; +for we had but five men who could keep watch. The damp weather had +attended us with little intermission since our passing Cape Leeuwin, and +our people had been constantly wet with the continued breaking over of +the sea: indeed the decks had only been twice dry, and that even for a +few hours, since we left that meridian. + +July 27. + +On the 27th, by sunset, we were abreast of Cape Howe. + +July 29. + +And on the 29th, at noon, the lighthouse on the south head of the port +was joyfully descried. At eight o'clock in the evening we entered the +heads, and anchored in Sydney Cove at midnight, after an absence of +thirty-one weeks and three days. + +Upon reviewing the proceedings of the voyage, the result of which bore +but a small proportion to what we had yet to do, I saw, with no little +satisfaction, that I had been enabled to set at rest the two particular +points of my instructions, namely, the opening behind Rosemary Island, +and the examination of the great bay of Van Diemen. + +Upon rounding the North-West Cape, we had been unfortunate in losing our +anchors, which very much crippled our proceedings, and prevented our +prosecuting the examination of the coast in so detailed a manner as we +otherwise might have done; for we possessed no resource to avail +ourselves of, if we had been so unfortunate as to get on shore. A series +of fine weather, however, on the first part, and a sheltered coast with +good anchorage on the latter part of the voyage, enabled us to carry on +the survey without accident; and nearly as much has been effected with +one anchor as could have been done had we possessed the whole. It +prevented, however, our examining the bottom of Exmouth Gulf, and our +landing upon Depuch Island. The latter was a great disappointment to us, +on account of the following description which M. Peron gives of the +island, in his historical account of Baudin's Voyage, from the report of +M. Ronsard, who visited it. + +"Au seul aspect de cette ile, on pouvoit deja pressentir qu'elle etoit +d'une nature differente de toutes celles que nous avions vues jusqu'a ce +jour. En effet, les terres en etoient plus hautes, les formes plus +prononcees: a mesure qu'on put s'en rapprocher, la difference devint plus +sensible encore. Au lieu de ces cotes uniformement prolongees, qui +n'offroient aucune pointe, aucun piton, aucune eminence, on voyait se +dessiner sur cette ile des roches aigues, solitaires, qui, comme autant +d'aiguilles, sembloient s'elancer de la surface du sol. Toute l'ile etoit +volcanique; des prismes de basalte, le plus ordinairement pentaedres, +entasses les uns sur les autres, reposant le plus souvent sur leurs +angles, en constituoient la masse entiere. La s'elevoient comme des murs +de pierre de taille; ailleurs, se presentoient des especes de paves +basaltiques, analogues a ceux de la fameuse Chaussee des Geans. Dans +quelques endroits on observoit des excavations plus ou moins profondes; +les eaux des parties voisines s'y etoient reunies, et formoient des +especes de fontaines, dans chacune desquelles nos gens trouverent une +tres-petite quantite d'excellente eau ferrugineuse. Dans ces lieux plus +humides, la vegetation etoit plus active; on y remarquoit de beaux +arbustes et quelques arbres plus gros, qui constituoient de petits +bosquets tres-agreables; le reste de l'ile, avec une disposition +differente, offroit un coup d'oeil bien different aussi: parmi ces +monceaux de laves entassees sans ordre, regne une sterilite generale; et +la couleur noire de ces roches volcaniques ajoutoit encore a l'aspect +triste et monotone de cette petite ile. La marche y est difficile, a +cause des prismes de basalte qui, couches horizontalement sur le sol, +presentent leurs aretes aigues en saillantes et dehors." + +M. Peron then quotes M. Depuch's (the mineralogist to the expedition) +report: "La couleur de ce basalte est d'un gris tirant sur le bleu; sa +contexture est tres-serree, son grain fin et d'apparence +petro-silicieuse; de petites lames brillantes et irregulierement situees +sont disseminees dans toute la masse; il ne fait aucune effervescence +avec les acides, et n'affecte pas sensiblement le barreau aimante; sa +partie exterieure a eprouve une espece d'alteration produite par les +molecules ferrugineuses: cette decomposition n'atteint pas ordinairement +au dela de 3 ou 4 millemetres de profondeur." + +M. Peron then continues M. Ronsard's report: "M. Ronsard croit devoir +penser, d'apres la conformation generale et la couleur de la partie du +continent voisine, qu'elle est d'une nature semblable et volcanique. +C'eut ete, sans doute un objet d'autant plus important a verifier, que, +jusqu'alors, nous n'avions rien pu voir de volcanique sur la Nouvelle +Hollande, et que depuis lors encore, nous n'y avons jamais trouve aucun +produit de ce genre; mais notre commandant, sans s'inquieter d'une +phenomene qui se rattache cependant d'une maniere essentielle a la +geographie de cette portion de la Nouvelle Hollande, donna l'ordre de +poursuivre notre route." + +(*Footnote. Peron Voyage de Decouvertes aux Terres Australes volume 1 +page 130.) + +The rise of the tide was found by the French officer who landed upon it +to be at least twenty-five feet, which fact of itself was sufficient to +have induced us to examine into the cause of so unusual a circumstance; +for the greatest rise that we had hitherto found was not more than eight +or nine feet. + +The hills at the back of this group of islands, which Commodore Baudin +called L'Archipel Forestier, recede from the coast in the shape of an +amphitheatre, which made me suppose that the coast trended in and formed +a deep bay; but this still remains to be ascertained, and we quitted the +place with much regret: for it unquestionably presented a far more +interesting feature than any part that we had previously seen. + +On our passage to the north coast we saw the Imperieuse and Clerke's +Shoals, and also discovered a third, the Mermaid's. + +On the north coast we found some deep bays and excellent ports, and at +the bottom of the great bay of Van Diemen we discovered several rivers, +one of which we ascended for forty miles. The thickly-wooded shores of +the north coast bore a striking contrast to the sandy desert-looking +tract of coast we had previously seen, and inspired us with the hope of +finding, at a future time, a still greater improvement in the country +between the two extremes. + +Mr. Cunningham made a very valuable and extensive collection of dried +plants and seeds; but, from the small size of our vessel, and the +constant occupation of myself and the two midshipmen who accompanied me, +we had neither space nor time to form any other collection of Natural +History than a few insects, and some specimens of the geology of those +parts where we had landed. + + + +CHAPTER 4. +Visit to Van Diemen's Land, and examination of the entrance of Macquarie +Harbour. +Anchor in Pine Cove and cut wood. +Description of the Trees growing there. +Return to the entrance, and water at Outer Bay. +Interview with the Natives, and Vocabulary of their language. +Arrive at Hobart Town, and return to Port Jackson. + +1818. December. + +The construction of the charts of the preceding voyage, together with the +equipment of the vessel, fully occupied me until the month of December; +when, having some time to spare before we could leave Port Jackson on our +second voyage to the north coast, in consequence of its being the time +when the westerly monsoon prevails, I acquainted His Excellency the +Governor of my intention of surveying the entrance of Macquarie Harbour, +which had lately been discovered on the western coast of Van Diemen's +Land. To make my visit there as useful as possible to the colony, a +passage was offered to Mr. Justice Field, the Judge of the Supreme Court, +who was at that time about to proceed to Hobart Town to hold his court; +and as it was probable that his business would terminate about the time +of our return, it was arranged that the Mermaid should also convey him +back. + +December 24. + +We left Sydney Cove on the 24th December. + +December 25. + +But did not clear the heads of the port until eight o'clock on the +following morning, when we sailed with a fresh wind from the North-East. + +Red Point was passed soon after noon, at the back of which some of the +lately settled farms in the Five Island District were plainly +distinguished. The hills here recede from the coast, and form an +amphitheatre of rich grazing land, on which is the Lake Alowrie and Tom +Thumb's Lagoon of Captain Flinders. + +Off Red Point, so named by Captain Cook (but which by the natives is +called Illawarra), are five small rocky islands. This group gives a name +to the district, which has proved a valuable acquisition to the colony. + +About ten miles to the southward of Red Point the hills again approach +the coast; which then becomes steep and thickly wooded, until near to +Shoal Haven; when they again fall back, and form another large tract of +low country, which as yet is little known. + +December 27. + +On the 27th after sunset we passed Cape Howe and crossed the entrance of +Bass Strait with a heavy gale from the South-West. + +1819. January 1. + +At daylight on the 1st of January Schouten Island, on the east coast of +Van Diemen's Land, was seen; before dark Cape Pillar made its appearance. + +January 2. + +And at two o'clock the next afternoon the Mermaid was anchored off Hobart +Town. + +On our arrival I learnt that a part of my object had been already +accomplished by a Mr. Florance, who had just returned from a partial +survey of Macquarie Harbour; but upon examining his chart I found it to +be merely a delineation of its coastline; without noticing the depth of +water or any of the numerous shoals which crowd the entrance of this +extraordinary harbour. + +January 10. + +As the most essential part therefore remained still to be performed, we +left Hobart Town on the 10th of January, and passed through +D'Entrecasteaux Channel; which is by the colonists at the Derwent +improperly called The Storm Bay Passage. By eight p.m. we were abreast of +the South Cape, when the wind veered round to the North-West, and +compelled us to stand to the southward. + +January 12. + +At daylight on the 12th we were abreast of the range of hills, one of +which Captain Flinders had named Mount Dewitt; and our course was held +parallel to the shore with a fresh breeze from South-South-East and fine +weather. Soon after noon we passed Point Hibbs; and at four o'clock +hauled round the point of land which forms the western head of the outer +road of Macquarie Harbour, which I named Cape Sorell, in compliment to +the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land. Between this Cape and Point +Hibbs the coast is very rocky, and ought not to be approached. Off the +Cape, at the distance of a quarter of a mile, is a detached rock on which +the sea continually breaks. + +It was dark before we reached an anchorage off the bar of the harbour; +having had to work against a strong South-South-East wind blowing +directly out. The anchorage was rather exposed to the North-West; but as +the weather had a settled appearance I was reconciled to remain for the +night, which turned out fine. + +January 13. + +At daylight the bar was sounded, and a buoy placed on its deepest part to +indicate the channel; on which, at that time of tide (about half-flood) +there was nine feet water: this was sufficient to allow us to pass it; +but in order to prevent delay, I caused the cutter to be lightened as +much as possible; and having reduced her draught to seven feet and a half +by emptying the water-casks, she was warped over the bar to an anchorage +between it and the entrance. As the cutter passed the shoalest part she +struck twice, but so lightly as to occasion neither damage nor delay. + +January 13 to 16. + +An anchorage was taken up in Outer Bay in order to sound the bar whilst +the weather was so favourable for the purpose, which employed us until +the 16th, when a westerly wind enabled us to enter the harbour; but, from +baffling winds and the ebbing tide, and the width of the entrance being +only seventy yards, we found a considerable difficulty in effecting it. +The anchor was dropped as soon as the cutter was inside, and she was +afterwards warped to a more convenient situation out of the strength of +the tide. + +Here we remained during the evening, in order to obtain bearings from two +contiguous stations on the hills. Near one of them we found lying on the +rocks a bundle of garments, which, upon examination, were found to be of +colonial manufacture; they bore no marks of ever having been worn, and as +I afterwards found had been given by Mr. Florance to the natives; who, +disliking the confinement of clothes, had abandoned them as useless. + +The next day we were employed in moving the vessel up the harbour to +Mount Wellington and in the examination of Channel Bay. In doing this a +brig passed us on her way out; she proved to be the Sophia of Hobart +Town, commanded by Mr. Kelly, the original discoverer of the place. He +had just procured a load of pine logs from Pine Cove at the North-East +corner of the harbour, and was now homeward bound. In the afternoon we +anchored off Round Head and Mr. Kelly came on board to assist me in +buoying and examining the channel, which bears his name in my plan, and +in which the deepest water in one part is but eight feet. In order that +the cutter might pass through this, for it was the only one that +communicated with the harbour, we were obliged to buoy it, since the +breadth was not more than thirty-five yards, and only six inches deeper +than the cutter's draught of water. + +January 19 to 21. + +While our people were at dinner, a party of natives came to the verge of +Round Head, and remained for some time calling to us. As soon as we had +dined, we landed, with the intention of communicating with them; they had +however left the place, and we returned on board without seeing them: the +following day, when I was away with the boat sounding the channels +towards Betsey's Island, they came down again, but seeing no boat near +the vessel they walked round to the Sophia, which was still at anchor +near Mount Wellington: we afterwards found that they had been induced to +go on board the brig, and were much pleased with their visit, and +gratified with the presents which Mr. Kelly gave them. + +On the 21st with a breeze from the North-West we got under weigh and +passed through Kelly's Channel; but at eleven o'clock the wind fell, and +we were obliged to anchor upon the edge of the bank off River Point; we +had not, however, to wait long, for the breeze freshened up again, and we +arrived at Pine Cove in time to land and examine the place before sunset. + +January 21 to 24. + +On our way to the shore in our boat we disturbed two flights of black +swans who flew away at our approach. Having landed at the bottom of the +cove where the Sophia had obtained her cargo, we found the Huon +pine-trees, interspersed with many others of different species, growing +in great profusion, within three yards of the edge of the water, upon a +soil of decomposed vegetable matter, which in many parts was so soft that +we often suddenly sank ankle-deep, and occasionally up to the knees in +it: this swampy nature of the soil is to be attributed to the crowded +state of the trees; for they grow so close to each other as to prevent +the rays of the sun from penetrating to the soil. + +The ground is also strewed with fallen trees, the stems of which are +covered with a thick coat of moss, in which seedlings of all the +varieties of trees and plants that grow here were springing up in the +prostrate stem of perhaps their parent tree; and it was not rare to see +large Huon pines of three feet in diameter rooted in this manner on the +trunk of a sound tree of even larger dimensions that had, perhaps, been +lying on the ground for centuries; while others were observed, in +appearance sound, and in shape perfect, and also covered with moss, +which, upon being trod upon, fell in and crumbled away. + +The fructification of this tree, so called from the river, which was +named after Captain Huon Kermadie, who commanded L'Esperance under the +order of Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, never having been seen, its detection +was matter of much curiosity to Mr. Cunningham, who diligently examined +every tree that had been felled. It was, however, with some difficulty +that he succeeded in finding the flower, which was so minute as almost to +require a magnifying lens to observe it; it is a coniferous tree and was +supposed by Mr. Cunningham to be allied to dacrydium. Several saplings of +this wood were cut for studding-sail booms and oars, as also of the +Podocarpos aspleniifolia, Labillardiere; this latter tree is known to the +colonists by the name of Adventure Bay Pine, and grows on Bruny Island in +Storm Bay; but it is there very inferior in size to those of Pine Cove. + +The Carpodontos lucida, or Australian snowdrop, of which Labillardiere +has given a figure in his account of Admiral D'Entrecasteaux's voyage, +was in full flower, and had a most beautiful appearance. + +The following is a list of the several species of trees that grow in this +Cove, for which I am indebted to Mr. Cunningham: + +COLUMN 1: Natural Orders, Jussieu. +COLUMN 2: Linn. Sex. Syst. +COLUMN 3: Name used by Colonists. +COLUMN 4: Ordinary Dimensions. Height in feet. +COLUMN 5: Ordinary Dimensions. Diameter at the Base. + +Coniferae : Dacrydium sp.? : Huon Pine : 40 to 60 : 2 feet to 5 feet. + +Coniferae : Podocarpos aspleniifolia, Labillardiere : Adventure Bay Yew, +or Pine : 40 to 50 : 12 to 16 inches. + +Cunoniaceae : Weinmannia, sp. : Native Beech : 20 to 25 : 4 to 5 inches. + + +Amentaceae : Fagus : Native Birch : 40 : 12 to 14 inches. + +Proteaceae : Cenarrhenes nitida. Labillardiere : Stinking Native Laurel : +20 to 25 : 8 inches. + +Hypericineae : Carpodontos lucida. Labillardiere : Snowdrop Tree : 25 to +30 : 4 to 6 inches. + +Mimoseae : Acacia melanoxylon. Brown. : Blackhearted Wattle, or Native +Ash : 40 : 8 to 10 inches. + +Atherospermeae : Atherosperma moschata. Labillardiere : Sassafras : 30 to +35 : 5 to 8 inches. + +Diosmeae : Zieria arborescens : Rue Tree : 12 to 16 : 3 to 4 inches. + +Escalloneae Brown. : Anopteros glandulosa. Labillardiere : Rose Bay : 15 +to 20 : 3 to 5 inches. + +Annonaceae : Tasmania Australis. Brown. : Spice Bark, or Tasman's Bark : +20 to 25 : 4 to 6 inches. + +January 21 to 24. + +On the 24th, having nearly expended our time and having ascertained the +forms of the shoals and completed the soundings of the channels in the +entrance of this truly remarkable harbour, we left Pine Cove on our +return: having a favourable wind we ran through Kelly's Channel and +anchored in Outer Bay, between Entrance Island and the bar, in order to +complete our water at the stream that runs over the beach, and to obtain +some sights on the Island for the rates of the chronometers. On +anchoring, several natives were seen on the beach calling to us, but the +wind was too fresh to allow of our communicating with them that day. + +January 25. + +But early the next morning, our boat being sent on shore with our empty +baricas and some casks for water, our party was amicably received by a +tribe of natives, consisting of six men and four old women; they came +forward unarmed, but as we afterwards found, their spears were concealed +close at hand. + +Some presents were distributed amongst them, of which the most valuable, +in their estimation, were empty wine-bottles, which they called moke, +this word was however used by them for water also, so that it was +doubtful whether the word meant the article itself or the vessel that +contained it. Our familiarity increased so rapidly that by the time that +we had dug two wells to receive the water which was flowing over the +beach, they had become very inquisitive, and made no hesitation in +searching our pockets, and asking for everything they saw. One of the +men, upon being detected in the act of pilfering a piece of white paper +from Mr. Cunningham's specimen box, immediately dropped it, and drew +back, much alarmed for fear of punishment, and also ashamed of having +been discovered; but after a few angry looks from us, the paper was given +to him, and peace was soon restored. + +Our dog, being a subject of much alarm, was fastened to the stern of our +boat; a circumstance which prevented their curiosity from extending +itself in that direction, and thus our arms were kept in convenient +readiness without their knowledge. + +As soon as our boats were loaded and we had embarked the natives retired +to a bush; behind which we observed the heads of several children and +young women. As many as sixteen were counted; so that this tribe, or +family, might be composed of from twenty-five to thirty persons, of which +we only saw six who were grown men. + +They were stouter and better proportioned than the natives of New South +Wales; and, unlike them, their hair was woolly: the only covering in use +amongst them was a kangaroo-skin, which they wore as a cloak over their +shoulders. On the return of the boat after breakfast, they did not make +their appearance, and it turned out that they had crossed over to the +sea-side in search of shellfish; but on the boats going in the afternoon +for a third turn of water, two natives whom we had seen in the morning +came towards us: one of them submitted his head to the effects of Mr. +Cunningham's scissors, which had, much to their gratification and +delight, clipped the hair and beard of one of our morning visitors: a +slight prick on the nose was not ill-naturedly taken by him, and excited +a laugh from his companion. + +During the day the following specimen of their language was obtained by +Mr. Cunningham:-- + +Arm : Yir'-ra-wig. +Nose : Me-oun. +Fingers : War'-ra-nook. +Eyes : Nam'-mur-ruck. +Elbow : Nam-me-rick. +Ear : Goun-reek. +Hair of the head : Pipe, or Bi-pipe. +Beard : Ru-ing. +Nipple : Ner-ri-nook. +Knee : None. +Toes : Pe-une. +Teeth : Kouk. +Tongue : Mim. +Neck : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree. +Navel : Wy-lune. +Fire : Lope. +A gull (or a bird) : Tir-ru-rar. +Toe-nails : Wan-dit. +Stone : Jal-lop, or Lone. +Kangaroo : Rag-u-ar. +Kangaroo-skin : Lan-num-mock. +Water, or a vessel to carry it in : Moke. +Yes : Wa-ak. +Come here, or come back : Ar-gar. + +NAMES OF PLANTS. + +Banksia australis : Tan-gan. +Archistroche lineare : Ta-bel-lak, or Le-vi-lack. +Corrrea rufa : Nirr. +Mesembryanthemum aequilaterale : Nu-ick. +Acacia sophora : Gur-we-er. +Melaleuca : Rone. +A tree : Pill-i-a ere-wig. + +January 26. + +Early the next morning we sailed over the bar, though not without +grounding, for the wind being from the westward we were obliged to make +several tacks, by which we necessarily approached the edge of the banks; +this accident however did not detain us and by one o'clock we passed +round Cape Sorell. + +January 29. + +On the 29th at eight a.m. the Mewstone was passed and the wind being +fresh from South-West we rounded the South-East Cape at nine o'clock, and +at sunset we were off Cape Frederick Hendrick, which is the northern head +of Adventure Bay: between this and Quoin, or Sloping Island, we stood off +and on during the night. At daylight we entered the Derwent River and +anchored off Hobart town at seven o'clock in the morning. + +1819. February 7. + +Here we remained until the 7th of February on which day the judge +embarked and we left the place on our return to Port Jackson. + +February 14. + +On the 14th at dusk we passed Botany Bay, and it was dark when we were +abreast of Port Jackson; but, being sufficiently acquainted with the +place, and favoured by the wind, we did not hesitate to enter; and +anchored off Sydney Cove at nine o'clock in the evening. + + + +CHAPTER 5. +Departure from Port Jackson, and commence a running survey of the East +Coast. +Examinations of Port Macquarie and the River Hastings in company with the +Lady Nelson, colonial brig, and assisted by Lieutenant Oxley, R.N., the +Surveyor-general of the Colony. +Leave Port Macquarie. +The Lady Nelson returns with the Surveyor-general to Port Jackson. +Enter the Barrier-reefs at Break-sea Spit. +Discover Rodd's Bay. +Visit the Percy Islands. +Pass through Whitsunday Passage, and anchor in Cleveland Bay. +Wood and water there. +Continue the examination of the East Coast towards Endeavour River; +anchoring progressively at Rockingham Bay, Fitzroy Island, Snapper +Island, and Weary Bay. +Interview with the Natives at Rockingham Bay, and loss of a boat off Cape +Tribulation. +Arrival off Endeavour River. + +1819. February 15 to May 7. + +Between the period of my return from the Derwent and the second week of +March we were prevented from making any preparation for our second voyage +to the North Coast by an unusual continuance of the heavy rains incident +to that season; which caused three floods on the Hawkesbury and Nepean +Rivers and did considerable damage to the ripening crops. This +unfavourable weather so retarded our equipment that it was the middle of +April before we were ready for sea; after which time we experienced +further detention from not being able to complete our crew. + +May 8. + +But at length we sailed from Port Jackson on the 8th of May. + +As it was my intention to take the northerly passage through Torres +Strait, I proposed, in my way up the East Coast, to examine Port +Macquarie; and, in order that his Excellency the Governor might be +informed of the result of our proceedings as soon as possible, Lieutenant +Oxley, R.N., the Surveyor-general of the colony, accompanied me in the +Lady Nelson, colonial brig. + +May 9. + +By noon the following day the church of King's Town,* in Port Hunter, was +seen. Between Cape Hawke and the Brothers we passed Wallis, Harrington's, +and Farquhar's Lakes: and, on the north side of the northernmost Brother, +we saw the entrance of Camden Haven; which, although deeper than the +Lakes, is only accessible for very small vessels. + +(*Footnote. Now more generally known by the name of Newcastle.) + +May 10. + +The next morning we anchored off Port Macquarie; and whilst the Lady +Nelson was beating up to an anchorage Lieutenant Oxley accompanied me in +the whale-boat to examine the entrance. + +In pulling in we got among the sand rollers on the north side, on which +the sea broke so heavy as at one time to endanger the boat's upsetting; +but fortunately we escaped with only the loss of an oar; after contending +for some time against the tide, which was ebbing with great strength, we +landed on the south side; when we were met by five natives, who had been +watching us all the morning, and had not been backward in their +invitations and entreaties for us to land. At first they kept aloof until +approached by Lieutenant Oxley, whom they soon recognised: after a short +interview in which they appeared to place the greatest confidence in all +our movements, we ascended the hill to observe the channel over the bar; +the water of which was so clear that the deepest part was easily seen. As +this was the principal object we did not delay longer on shore than was +necessary, and upon our return sounded the depth of water upon the bar +and in the channel, the particulars of which are detailed upon the plan +of the harbour. + +May 11. + +The next morning the two vessels were warped into the port; and by eleven +o'clock were anchored within a few yards of the south shore, and secured +to trees near the beach, close to a fresh-water stream which ran into the +sea. + +May 12. + +The following day we pulled three or four miles up the river; on the way +up two natives were seen in a canoe but on our approach they landed to +avoid us and quickly disappeared. The boat was kept in mid-stream and we +passed by without taking any notice of them. Half a mile further on we +put ashore on the south bank and took bearings to fix the position of our +station and the direction of the next reach upwards, which appeared to be +about three miles long and half a mile broad. We then returned to the +cutter. + +May 14. + +And on the 14th Lieutenant Oxley and Mr. Roe accompanied me in one of our +boats upon the examination of the river. + +After reaching our former station on the south bank we proceeded up the +long reach towards Black-man Point, on which a tribe of natives were +collected: the river is here divided into two streams; we followed that +which trended to the westward as it appeared to be the most considerable. +At the end of the next reach the river is again divided into two +branches, and as the southernmost was found upon trial to be the +shoalest, the other was followed. On our left was a small contracted arm, +which probably communicates with the lagoon on Rawdon Island; here we +landed to examine the trees which so thickly and beautifully cover both +banks: several sorts of large growth were noticed, among which was a tree +of the trichillieae, natural order Jussieu (Trichillia glandulosa), which +the colonists have flattered with the name of rosewood, and a ficus of +gigantic growth, both of which are very abundant. We landed at Point +Elizabeth and walked a mile back through a fine open country, well +timbered and richly clothed with luxuriant grass and apparently much +frequented by kangaroos. + +From the edge of the bank Mount Cairncross, a remarkable round-topped +hill which is conspicuously seen from the coast over the entrance of the +port,* appeared over the next reach, and formed a rich picturesque +back-ground for the view. + +(*Footnote. See Illustration: View of the Entrance of Port Macquarie.) + +After refreshing ourselves, we re-embarked, and passed on our right a +shoal inlet, in which we saw a native's weir, for the purpose of taking +fish; it was formed by sticks stuck in the mud, and so close as to +prevent the retreat of such as were inside: three miles above this we +landed on an open grassy spot on the south bank, and pitched our tent for +the night. + +About half an hour before we landed we heard the voices of natives in the +woods; who, after we passed by, embarked in two canoes and followed us +for some distance, but the near approach of night obliged us to look out +for a convenient spot to encamp upon; so that the natives, finding they +were unattended to, soon gave up their pursuit. + +In the morning, before we embarked, our barica was filled at a water-hole +close at hand; on walking about a quarter of a mile back, we came to the +borders of a large circular plain, about one mile in diameter, covered +with reeds and other indications of its being a morass or lagoon. + +We then pursued our way up the river; it soon trended sharply round to +the South-East and joined the main stream which we had unknowingly left +the preceding evening. There we had to unload and drag the boat over a +fall; but, as the ascent was not more than ten or twelve inches, no +difficulty was experienced in effecting it. Whilst thus employed, we were +visited by ten natives, some of whom, by being painted and ornamented in +a remarkable manner, were recognised as those who followed us last +evening: their timidity was at first very great, but our conduct gave +them confidence, and they very soon came to the boat, and assisted in +launching her into deeper water, for which service they were presented +with fishing hooks and lines, which they gladly received. Everything we +said or did was repeated by them with the most exact imitation; and +indeed they appeared to think they could not please us better than by +mimicking every motion that we made. Some biscuit was given them which +they pretended to eat, but on our looking aside were observed to spit it +out. They wished much to take us to their huts; but, the day being much +advanced without our having made any progress, we were obliged to decline +their invitation; and as soon as the boat was reloaded we took leave of +these friendly Indians, whose voices we heard until a turn of the river +hid their persons from our view. About two miles higher, at King's +River,* Lieutenant Oxley landed and recognised his former tracks which +were now much overgrown and nearly effaced; the marks of the axe were, +however, sufficiently evident for us to follow them for half a mile along +the banks of the river, when we re-embarked, and continued our course +upwards. + +(*Footnote. See Illustration: View of the River Hastings at its Junction +with King's River.) + +The river now became much narrower, not being more than seventy or eighty +yards wide; four miles higher up we landed and joined Mr. Cunningham, who +was botanizing in the Lady Nelson's boat: this gentleman had overtaken us +about an hour before and passed on to look for a convenient place to +encamp for the night; but for want of a better situation, was obliged to +land in a brush, the banks of which were so thickly lined with trees and +climbing plants that we should have passed it if the station had not been +indicated to us by his boat made fast to the landing place. + +Some rain fell during the night, but this inconvenience was trifling +compared to the discordant screams of a bird which had roosted over our +fires, and which the people called the cat-bird. The trichillia and the +ficus, before noticed, are abundant on these banks, and are all +intricately connected with each other by climbing plants which grow to an +incredible size, and hang down in rich clusters from the summit to the +root of the tree, tending considerably to beautify the richness of the +scene. + +The woods included every tree of the soil and climate, excepting a white +and straight stemmed eucalyptus, which is common at Hunter's River, and +there called the Flooded Gum; it is used and reckoned valuable for spars, +but the few specimens that I have seen of it have been very brittle and +bad. Some of these trees were observed by us to be from fifty to sixty +feet high, perfectly straight, and without a fork for forty feet. + +May 13. + +The next morning our boats in company proceeded for two miles farther up; +in this space we crossed four falls, the last of which, running with +great rapidity, occasioned some difficulty and trouble in passing over +it: a little above this fall our exploration terminated, and we stopped +to examine the timber. Several cedar-trees (Cedrelea toona), of large +growth, were observed; one of which, being measured, was found to be ten +feet in diameter at the base. + +The upper part of the river is studded with islets covered with the +Casuarina paludosa which is abundant in the swamps and low grounds at +Port Jackson, where the colonists call it the Swamp Oak. The river +appeared to be subject to inundations, for marks of floods were visible +in all parts, and some considerably beyond the banks. + +On our return we landed at a high rocky head on the north bank, from +which a tract of open country appeared to recede. From hence Brown's +Bluff bore South 32 degrees West. This Bluff is a remarkable hill, and is +distinctly seen from the coast: its position was fixed by Mr. Oxley on +his last journey, who passing within a few miles, rode to its summit to +gain a view of the country, which he described as very extensive and +beautiful, and as having abundantly repaid him for his labour. + +As we had before passed through the Loudon Branch, we now followed the +main stream, and on our way landed on the south bank, upon a piece of +open forest land, abundantly clothed with luxuriant grass and +moderate-sized timber. The water here began to taste brackish, but it was +quite fresh about a quarter of a mile higher up, above a spit of rocks +which nearly crosses the channel, leaving a passage of ten feet water, +over which there is a trifling fall. About three-quarters of a mile lower +down we landed on the north bank, on Rawdon Island, on the edge of the +swamp seen near our tent in the Loudon Branch. + +We also landed at Black-man Point, and had an interview with twenty-five +natives; amongst whom we recognised several that had visited us at the +anchorage, and who appeared delighted and happy at meeting us again: +after spending half an hour with them we re-embarked, and arrived on +board by sunset. + +Between this and the 20th our time was busily spent in laying down and +making further observations upon the soundings of the port and bar. + +May 21. + +On the 21st at highwater, having completed our object, we left the +harbour; and in steering over the bar found eleven feet water at about +thirty-five yards from the sunken rocks. The Lady Nelson, in following, +kept more over towards the north side of the channel and, being near the +edge of the sand rollers, had but nine feet. + +On reaching the offing Lieutenant Oxley embarked in the Lady Nelson to +return to Port Jackson, and soon afterwards the two vessels parted +company. + +In consequence of the report made by Lieutenant Oxley to the Governor +upon the result of the expedition, an establishment has been since formed +at this harbour; which at present is used only as a penal settlement: +hitherto no settlers have been permitted to take their grants at Port +Macquarie; but when this is allowed it will, from the superiority of its +climate and the great extent of fine country in the interior, become a +very important and valuable dependency of the colony of New South Wales. + +The natural productions of this place are, in a great measure, similar to +those of the neighbourhood of Port Jackson; but many plants were found +which are not known in the colony; and as these grow in all parts within +the tropic, the climate of Port Macquarie may naturally be suspected to +be favourable to the cotton-plant and the sugar-cane, neither of which +have yet been cultivated to the southward: among these plants, we found +the Pandanus pedunculatus, which Mr. Brown found in the Gulf of +Carpentaria, and many other parts within the tropic, in Captain Flinders' +voyage. The face of the hill on the south side of the entrance possesses +some good soil; and at the time of our visit* was covered with a +profusion of herbage, and studded with groups of banksia, which the +colonists call the honeysuckle; the wood of which is useful in +ship-building on account of the crooked growth of its stem. + +(*Footnote. It is on this hill that the penal settlement of Port +Macquarie is now built, the situation having been selected at the +recommendation of Lieutenant Oxley. It was settled by Captain Allman of +the 48th regiment in the early part of the year 1821.) + +The banks of the river on both sides were thickly wooded; in most parts +the country is open and grassy and is profusely timbered with the +varieties of eucalyptus that are common at Port Jackson. There is however +a great extent of brushland in which the soil is exceedingly rich, and in +which the trees grow to a large size; these, being covered with +parasitical plants and creepers of gigantic size, render the forest +almost impervious: it is in these brushes that the rosewood and +cedar-trees grow, and also the fig-tree before alluded to; this last tree +is of immense size and is remarkable for having its roots protruding from +the base of the stem, like huge buttresses, to the distance of several +yards. + +The natives are numerous, but they appear to depend more upon hunting +than the sea for their subsistence. This I judged from the very inferior +state of their canoes which are very much less ingeniously formed than +even the frail ones of the Port Jackson natives; being merely sheets of +bark with the ends slightly gathered up to form a shallow concavity, in +which they stand and propel them by means of poles. Their huts are more +substantially constructed and more useful as dwellings than any to the +southward, and will contain eight or ten persons; while those to the +southward are seldom large enough to hold three; they are arched over and +form a dome with the opening on the land side; so that they are screened +from the cold sea-winds, which, unless they blow in the character of the +sea-breeze, are generally accompanied by rain. Kangaroos are very +numerous, and from their traces appeared of large size; but we saw +neither emus nor native dogs. + +As a port this place will never be the resort of vessels of larger +burthen than 100 tons, there not being more than ten feet water on the +bar; which on account of the swell will not admit vessels of a greater +draught than nine feet: this is a great drawback upon its prosperity; but +the small coasting vessels from Sydney will be sufficiently large for the +purposes of conveying produce to Port Jackson. It cannot long remain as a +penal establishment for its utility in that respect is already lost, +since the convicts find their way back to the colony as soon as an +opportunity offers of escaping; and then, for fear of detection, remain +concealed in its outskirts, and are necessarily driven to plunder and rob +for subsistence. + +A very great advantage attending the settling of this part is its free +communication with the interior, and with that vast space of fine country +situated between Lieutenant Oxley's Track on the parallel of 30 degrees, +and Bathurst. This region has lately (1823) been travelled over by my +indefatigable friend Mr. Cunningham and found to possess a large portion +of excellent soil and rich pasturage; it contains altogether at least +twelve millions of acres in which it would be difficult to discover a bad +tract of country of any extent; but as one-fourth part is the general +calculation in the colony for waste land, nine millions of the richest +country will be left for future colonization: many years however must +elapse before it can be occupied. + +The description of the interior of New South Wales is so foreign to my +object, and so irrelevant to the subject before me that I must entreat +the indulgence of my reader for this digression; and return to the +Mermaid, already described as having left the port and parted company +with the Lady Nelson, conveying my friend Lieutenant Oxley to Port +Jackson, and leaving us to resume our voyage. + +As soon as we had obtained an offing the wind freshened up to a strong +breeze from the westward, attended with squally and unfavourable weather; +but we were enabled to make some useful observations upon the coastline +as far as the next point to the southward of Smoky Cape; when night +obliged us to steer more off shore. + +The country behind the beach was lined with natives' fires which were +kindled as we passed to attract our notice. To the southward of Smoky +Cape the land is very low and probably occupied by large lagoons. + +May 22. + +The next evening Mount Warning was seen from the deck although we were at +least seventy-eight miles from it. + +May 23. + +On the 23rd at noon our latitude was 28 degrees 9 minutes 5 seconds, when +the Mount bore South 58 degrees West (Magnetic). At sunset the wind died +away; and, from the land in the vicinity of the mountain indicating every +appearance of the existence of either a large sheet of water or an +opening of consequence, I was induced to remain two days to examine the +beach more narrowly; but, after beating about with a strong +south-easterly current which prevented my tracing the beach to the +northward of the Mount, and having only seen an inconsiderable opening +that communicates by a shoal channel with a small lagoon at the back of +the beach, I gave up the search; still without satisfying myself of the +non-existence of an inlet, which, if there be one, probably communicates +with the sea nearer to Point Danger.* + +(*Footnote. Lieutenant Oxley has since (1823) discovered this to be the +case, for he found a stream emptying itself into the sea, by a bar +harbour close to Point Danger. Lieutenant Oxley called it the Tweed.) + +Mount Warning is the summit of a range of hills which is either distinct +from others near it or separated from them by deep ravines. It is very +high and may be seen twenty-eight leagues from a ship's deck. +West-North-West from it is a much higher range but, having a more regular +outline than the mount, is not of so conspicuous a character. Several +detached ranges of hills lie between Mount Warning and the beach; they +are thickly covered with timber, amongst which was a pine, supposed to be +the same that Captain Flinders found growing on Entrance Island in Port +Bowen, which is 6 1/2 degrees more to the northward.* Mount Warning is on +the same parallel as Norfolk Island, where the Araucaria excelsa grows in +remarkable luxuriance and beauty and attains a very large size; if this +be the same tree, it is of very stunted growth.** + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 36.) + +(**Footnote. Lieutenant Oxley, in his late expedition to Moreton Bay +(1823), found reason to doubt whether the pine that he found in the +Brisbane River was the Araucaria excelsa of Norfolk Island.) + +The country in the vicinity of Mount Warning appears to be productive and +wooded; for although the hills are steep and rather precipitous, yet +their verdant and agreeable appearance augurs favourably for the +fertility of the valleys between them. + +May 25. + +Light winds retarded our progress along the coast until the evening of +the 25th, when the wind freshened up from the westward, and by the +following sunset we were abreast of Cape Moreton. + +May 27. + +The following morning part of the sandy peninsula was in sight. + +May 28. + +But we did not pass round Breaksea Spit until the next day. We then +steered across Hervey's Bay towards Bustard Bay and passed a small island +that was discovered by the ship Lady Elliot in 1816 and that had not yet +a place upon the chart of this part of the coast. + +(*Footnote. See Appendix A Part 2.) + +May 29. + +The next day at noon we were off Bustard Bay and passed half a mile +without the dry rock which lies off its north end. + +The course was now directed for Gatcombe Head of Port Curtis, whither it +had become necessary to proceed, to repair some little damage that we had +met with during the preceding night; as we proceeded a shoal opening +presented itself round the north head of Bustard Bay, probably +communicating with the inundated lands at the back: here the coast is +lined with rocky hills, on which we saw no timber but what was stunted. + +The trending in of the land round the next point led us to the discovery +of a considerable inlet which had escaped Captain Flinders' observation. +On hauling round the point and steering towards what had at first the +appearance of being the principal opening, another presented itself to +the eastward, divided from the first by a projecting point (Middle Head); +which appeared to be well furnished with grass and trees, and was as +picturesque as it was prominent. + +As this latter opening appeared to be more considerable than that which +trends round the west side of Middle Head and had at first occupied our +attention, we proceeded to examine it; and without difficulty found the +channel, with good and well-sheltered anchorage within the entrance. In +working in, the cutter took the ground on the south side of the port, but +was got off again without suffering any damage. + +May 30. + +In the morning we landed and ascended a hill on the west side of the bay, +whence we had an extensive prospect; but it did not impress us with any +better opinion of the utility or merits of the bay than that it would +afford shelter to moderate-sized vessels. It is a large sheet of water, +full of shoals, and probably communicates with the sea by a small opening +near the point +next to the northward of Bustard Bay; the dry rock off which was +distinctly seen over the land. There was also an appearance of its +communicating with the swamps at the head of Bustard Bay; but in that +direction the trees prevented my ascertaining it with certainty: the +opening to the westward of Middle Head appeared to trend to the +South-West through a low marsh; and to the southward and south-eastward +the face of the country is irregular and mountainous. The hills which +surround the bay are rocky; and although they are not deficient in wood +and grass the soil is very shallow; and the trees, principally of +eucalyptus, are of stunted growth. + +1819. June 1. + +Thick and rainy weather prevented our leaving this port, which was named +Rodd's Bay, until the 1st of June. At four o'clock in the afternoon we +hauled round Cape Capricorn and at dark anchored on the bank between that +projection and Cape Keppel. + +June 2. + +The next morning we resumed our course to the northward and passed inside +of Hummock Island and between Keppel's great Island and the First Lump. + +As we passed Port Bowen we were near enough to the shore to observe the +anchorage under Entrance Island. In the evening we anchored about one +mile from the Pine Islets in the mouth of the opening round Island Head, +in four and three quarters fathoms, fine sand. + +June 3. + +At daylight the next morning we were steering a course for the Percy +Islands; on our way to which we passed three or four miles to the +eastward of the 3rd Northumberland Island, which is a steep rock crowned +with pine-trees. + +At eleven o'clock we were half a mile from a low rock that has not +hitherto been noticed in the charts: it lies five miles North 15 degrees +East from the 3rd island; and being very low is dangerous for vessels +passing near it in the night; but with the 3rd island in sight it may be +easily avoided. + +Steering on we passed inside the rock that lies off the west end of the +Percy Island, Number 1; and anchored in its westernmost sandy bay, to the +westward of the small Pine Islet, at about a quarter of a mile from the +shore, in two and a half fathoms. The bank being very steep, the +anchorage was not considered secure; but as the wind blew off the land +and the weather was fine I was reconciled to remain. Upon examining the +beach it was found that our water might be very conveniently completed at +a stream which ran over its east end. I therefore determined upon taking +this opportunity of filling our casks, as well as of repairing our small +whale-boat; whilst the sailmaker was employed in altering a tent, and a +part of our crew in cutting wood. + +The birthday of our late venerable and good king was passed at this +island. + +June 5. + +And the following morning (5th), our tasks being completed, we left the +bay. + +This island having been already described by Captain Flinders, little is +left for me to say. The hills are intersected by numerous gullies and are +consequently supplied with streams: but the most convenient +watering-place for ships is the one we used, except during a northerly or +a westerly wind, when the practicability of landing on any part of the +north side of this island is very questionable; for the task was +difficult even with the wind blowing off the shore. Tracks of natives, +but not of recent date, were noticed. In our walks over the hills we saw +abundance of quails but no animals were observed; very few sea-birds +frequented the beaches perhaps on account of the contiguity of the +barrier reefs, upon which they can much more plentifully procure their +food. + +On the hills, which are very rocky, the grass grew luxuriantly, although +the soil is shallow and poor; but in the gullies Mr. Cunningham found +some good loamy ground, in which he sowed a few peach-stones, which would +doubtless thrive, were it not for the fires of the natives. + +We saw very few pine-trees that exceeded forty feet in height, and the +cones were not yet formed. Mr. Cunningham remarked a great similarity +between the botanical productions of this part and of the north coast, +although there is a difference in latitude of ten degrees. + +After weighing, the wind, which was at South-West, gradually died away. +During the evening we passed Beverly Group (the Five Island cluster of +Captain Flinders) and at sunset anchored in sixteen fathoms fine sand and +shells, near Double Isle. + +June 6. + +The whole of the next day and night was spent in endeavouring to approach +the main, but we made very little progress. During the day natives' fires +were burning on many of the islands and the coast of the main was +enveloped in smoke. + +June 7. + +At daylight on the 7th the cutter was about eight miles East by South +from Point Slade, with a projecting bluff cape in sight, which proved to +be Captain Cook's Cape Hilsborough. + +The country in the vicinity and particularly to the southward of the Cape +is rocky and mountainous; but the lower grounds are verdant and well +clothed with timber; and, judging from the numerous fires along the +coast, it must be very populous; the islands near it are rocky and very +barren, but many of them being wooded with pine-tree have a picturesque +appearance. + +In the evening, having passed round the Cape, we anchored in Repulse Bay, +at about three miles from the shore, which is here low and fronted by a +chain of low islands, apparently connected by reefs. Water was seen over +the low land at the bottom of the bight in the South-West side of the +bay, and is probably a lagoon. + +June 8. + +The next morning we steered to the North-West to look at the head of +Repulse Bay; the bottom of which appears to be correctly described by +Captain Cook as being bounded by low land. I obtained a view of it from +the summit of one of the islands, named in my chart the Repulse Isles, +off which we anchored in the afternoon. + +These islets are furnished with a very poor and shallow soil. On the +sides of the hills we noticed a species of xanthorrhoea, remarkable for +its stunted growth and for the curly habit of its leaves. Pumice-stone +was found at the foot of the hills, washed up, perhaps, by the tide; and +on the beach was a European ashen oar. Under the projecting rocks several +firing and sleeping places were observed which had been recently occupied +by the natives. + +June 9. + +The following morning we sailed and steered for Whitsunday Passage; a +little before noon, I landed with Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham in a small +bight round the north side of Cape Conway, for a meridional observation +and bearings. + +This Cape is formed by steep rocky hills, rising to the height of nearly +800 feet above the sea; the sides of which were so steep and so +impenetrably covered by a thick underwood that we could not accomplish +its ascent; we were therefore obliged to confine our observations to the +beach. Tracks of natives were observed, and either a wrecked or a +worn-out canoe, made of bark, was lying near the ruins of two or three +bark huts. + +Excellent water, supplied by a stream from the hills, was found just +within the beach, which is very steep and affords easy landing. In +moderate weather a ship may water here with great facility. + +When we returned on board, the cutter was becalmed nearly abreast of +Pentecost Island, and was rapidly drifting in a direction towards the +west shore, on which course we soon shoaled the water from twenty-eight +to ten fathoms. The vessel being quite ungovernable, the boat was sent +ahead to tow her round, which we had scarcely time to do, before she was +carried by the tide over a bank of hard sand on which the least water was +three fathoms; fortunately for us it was nearly high water, or we should +have been left dry: its western edge was so steep that we were very +quickly in deep water again. We anchored at sunset in the centre of a +tide eddy under Pine Head, in sixteen fathoms sand and shells: the night +was passed without accident. + +June 10. + +The next morning we landed on the Island of which Pine Head is the +south-easternmost extremity and from its summit obtained an extensive set +of bearings. + +The island possesses the same rocky character with the rest of this +group; but the soil, although shallow, nourished some luxuriant grass +which reached up to our middle and concealed the rocks that are +plentifully strewed over the ground. The trees are low and stunted, but +the steep slope of the head is covered with pines and forms one of the +most remarkable features of Whitsunday Passage. + +Whilst we were on shore Mr. Bedwell shortened in the cable preparatory to +weighing; but on doing it the anchor tripped, and it was with difficulty +that the cutter was kept clear of the rocks, close to which she was +drifted by the eddies. On arriving on board, we steered to the northward +through Whitsunday Passage and afterwards stood towards Captain Cook's +Cape Gloucester, the extremity of which turned out to be an island +(Gloucester Island) of five miles long: it is separated from the real +Cape by a Strait, a mile and a half wide. + +June 11. + +On passing round Gloucester Island we saw Holborne Island which Captain +Cook discovered and named. We then hauled into Edgecumbe Bay, but as the +night was advancing had not time to explore its shores. We therefore +passed round Middle Island, which had escaped Captain Cook's observation, +and steered to the North-West, parallel with the shore of the main, which +appeared to be very low. + +June 12. + +The next morning we were steering towards Mount Upstart, and at noon +passed within two miles of its extremity. Behind the Mount, which rises +with remarkable abruptness from the low land in its rear, are two +prominent hills; the highest of which, Mount Abbott, has a peaked summit; +the irregular and mountainous appearance of the range upon which this +Mount stands, and a very evident break in the hills on its western side, +would lead one to suspect the existence of a river, of which the bay on +the western side of the Mount may be the mouth. There is also a bay on +the eastern side of Mount Upstart, which also has a river-like +appearance. In fact, it is not at all certain whether Mount Upstart may +not be an island, and the bay behind it the mouth of a considerable +stream. + +The variation observed by Captain Cook off Mount Upstart was 9 degrees +East; but by an Azimuth observed by me close to the Cape, it was found +not more than 6 degrees 16 minutes East. The result of Captain Cook's +observation must therefore be attributed to some other cause than, as he +supposed, to a magnetical power in the hills of this promontory. + +June 13. + +At daylight of the 13th we passed within four miles of the extremity of +Cape Bowling-green, which, although it is very low and sandy, is not +destitute of wood or verdure; between Cape Bowling-green and the back +mountainous ranges, a distance of nearly thirty miles, the country +appears to rise gradually, and gave us reason to regret that the nature +of my instructions did not warrant our making a more particular +examination of this part of the coast, for it appears to offer a much +greater degree of interest and importance than any part of the southward +without the tropic. Indeed, this bay appeared to be equally promising in +its appearance with those near Mount Upstart; and the peculiar feature of +Cape Bowling-green, jutting out into the sea between them, considerably +increases the probability of there being more than one or two rivers of +importance hereabouts. The barren range, which has almost uninterruptedly +continued from the back of Cape Palmerston, a distance of 150 miles, here +ceases or retires, and leaves a gap of ten or twelve miles wide of low +land; to the North-West of which, Mount Eliot, a hill of considerable +height, rises rather abruptly; and, as the shores of the bay were not +distinctly traced, there is fair reason for presuming that there is a +river at its bottom. + +June 14. + +The next morning we steered round Cape Cleveland and passed close to some +straggling rocks on a reef that extends for four miles to the eastward of +it. + +Cape Cleveland is the extremity of a mountainous projection, and like +Mount Upstart rises abruptly from low land, by which it is separated from +the lofty range of Mount Eliot. The wooded and uneven character of the +land on its west side indicated so great a likelihood of our finding +fresh water that I was induced to despatch Mr. Bedwell to the shore to +ascertain whether a delay might be made profitable by completing our hold +with wood and water. His return bringing a favourable report, the cutter +was anchored in three fathoms, at about one mile from the extremity of +the Cape, bearing North 60 1/2 degrees East. + +June 14 to 15. + +Wooding and watering parties immediately commenced operations, which +occupied them that and the following day. + +June 15. + +On the afternoon of the second day, I landed with Mr. Cunningham and Mr. +Roe to ascend one of the hills that overlooks the bay. After two hours' +climbing over huge rounded masses of granite, and penetrating through +thick bushes of underwood, we arrived only at a summit considerably +beneath the one we wished to reach; but as it was too late in the day to +proceed further we halted; and I took a set of angles and made some +memorandums for the sketch of the bay. A remarkable observation was here +made upon the magnetic influence of this land; the variation was observed +to be 10 degrees 32 minutes West, but on removing the compass eight yards +off, it only gave 2 degrees 50 minutes East. This in some degree +corresponds with Captain Cook's record of the irregularity of his compass +when he passed near this part of the coast, in consequence of which he +called the peaked island to the westward of the cape, Magnetical Island: +this irregularity, however, was not noticed by me in my observations near +the same spot; and the difference observed by him may very probably have +been occasioned by the ship's local attraction, which in those days was +unknown. The view obtained from this station was neither so useful nor so +extensive as I had expected: the coast for six miles back is low and +occupied by a large body of water; beyond which is a range of flat-topped +and precipitous rocky hills that appear to be inaccessible, and to form +almost an impenetrable barrier between the sea-coast and the interior. +From the hazy state of the atmosphere the Palm Islands were not visible: +sunset being near at hand we were obliged to hasten our descent, which, +by following the course of a torrent-worn gully, proved to be much +shorter and easier than, from our rugged and difficult ascent, we were +led to apprehend. + +At the bottom of the hill the small stream that was trickling down the +gully, by which we descended, joined another of larger size running over +the beach into the sea, at about a quarter of a mile to the southward of +that from which we watered. At the junction of these streams we +discovered a native path winding among the high grass, which speedily +brought us to our boat. + +June 16. + +We remained at the anchorage the following day in order to obtain some +lunar distances; and in the evening Mr. Bedwell sounded across the bay +towards the south end of Magnetical Island, and also the channel between +that island and the main. The soundings therefore laid down are from his +report, from which it appears that there is a good and clear passage +through, and excellent anchorage upon a muddy bottom all over the bay. + +No natives were seen during our visit, but the remains of nine huts were +counted in different parts of the bay, near the edge of the beach. The +inhabitants were not however far off, for the tracks of human feet as +well as those of a dog were noticed very recently imprinted on the +gravelly bed of the fresh-water stream; and we were probably watched by +them in all our proceedings. Near the extremity of the Cape some bamboo +was picked up, and also a fresh green coconut that appeared to have been +lately tapped for the milk. Heaps of pumice-stone were also noticed upon +the beach; not any of this production, however, had been met with +floating. + +Hitherto, no coconut trees have been found on this continent; although so +great a portion of it is within the tropic and its north-east coast so +near to islands on which this fruit is abundant. Captain Cook imagined +that the husk of one, which his second Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, picked up at +Endeavour River, and which was covered with barnacles, came from the +Terra del Espiritu Santo of Quiros;* but, from the prevailing winds, it +would appear more likely to have been drifted from New Caledonia, which +island at that time was unknown to him; the fresh appearance of the +coconut seen by us renders, however, even this conclusion doubtful; +Captain Flinders also found one as far to the south as Shoal-water Bay.** + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 164.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 49.) + +Several kangaroos were started by our wooding party but none were taken. +In the gullies Mr. Cunningham reaped an excellent harvest, both of seeds +and plants. + +Here as well as at every other place that we had landed upon within the +tropic, the air is crowded with a species of butterfly, a great many of +which were taken. It is doubtless the same species as that which Captain +Cook remarks as so plentiful in Thirsty Sound; he says, "we found also an +incredible number of butterflies, so that for the space of three or four +acres, the air was so crowded with them, that millions were to be seen in +every direction, at the same time, that every branch and twig were +covered with others that were not upon the wing."* The numbers seen by us +were indeed incredible; the stem of every grass-tree (xanthorrhoea) which +plant grows abundantly upon the hills, was covered with them, and on +their taking wing the air appeared, as it were, in perfect motion. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 125.) + +It is a new species, and is described by my friend Mr. W.S. Macleay, in +the Appendix, under the name of Euploea hamata. + +June 17. + +On the 17th we left the bay and passed round the north end of Magnetical +Island. Several natives were seen on a sandy beach at the north end, +where deep gullies indicated the presence of fresh water. Our course was +then directed across Halifax Bay towards the Palm Islands, passing inside +a small rocky islet marked i, on the chart, and another of larger size, +k. In a South by East direction from these islands is an opening in the +land round which the sea was observed to trend; it was supposed to +communicate with the water seen from the heights of Cape Cleveland over +the land at the bottom of the bay; and it is probable, from the mist +which this morning occupied a considerable space of the low land fronting +the hills, that a large body of water exists there. Calms and light airs +detained us until two o'clock, when a fresh breeze sprung up from the +eastward, to which we made sail, but the glare of the sun, shining in the +direction of our course, obliged our hauling up to avoid the risk of +running thus dark with excess of bright upon any rocks or shoals that +might be in our way; and as the low coastline of this part of the bar was +distinctly traced, we steered towards the island marked 2, near which the +cutter was anchored, at eight o'clock, in eleven fathoms' mud. + +June 18. + +At eight o'clock the following morning we got under sail, but delayed by +light winds we were, at noon, within half a league of the island, 2. As +there was no immediate appearance of a breeze I landed on a steep beach, +at the North-West end of the island, whence the latitude was observed to +be 18 degrees 50 minutes 15 seconds, and from which I obtained a useful +set of bearings. Near our landing-place were some natives' huts and two +canoes; the former appeared to have been recently occupied, and were very +snug habitations. They were of a circular shape, and very ingeniously +constructed by twigs stuck in the ground and arched over, the ends being +artfully entwined so as to give support to each other; the whole was +covered with a thatch of dried grass and reeds; they were not larger than +two people could conveniently occupy. In one of the huts, which was of a +more elliptical shape and of larger dimensions than the other, was a +bunch of hair that had been recently clipped from either the head or +beard. This proves that these operations are not done solely by fire, as +Captain Cook supposed,* but by means of a sharp-edged shell, which must +be both tedious and painful to endure; and we have often witnessed the +delight shown by the natives at the speedy effect a pair of scissors has +produced upon the beard or hair. The canoes were not longer than eight +feet and would not safely carry more than two people; the ends were +stitched together by strips of the stem of the Flagellaria indica. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 229.) + +Few palm-trees were seen, but at the large islands, according to Captain +Cook's account,* they are probably abundant. A considerable quantity of +pumice-stone was found, as is usual in every place that we have landed at +within the tropic, heaped up above the highwater mark. During the +afternoon we had little wind; in the evening we passed a mile and a half +to the eastward of a low and dangerous reef which escaped Captain Cook's +observation; the only part of it that was visible above the water were +two low rocks, but as the tide ebbed the craggy heads of several smaller +ones gradually uncovered, and at low water it is probably quite dry; we +passed it in ten fathoms. It is not probable that its extent is greater +than what is exposed at low water, but from its steepness it is very +dangerous. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 136.) + +At sunset we anchored about four miles to the eastward of the position +assigned to a reef, on which the ship Lady Elliot struck, in 1815; but +saw nothing of it. + +June 19. + +At daybreak we resumed our voyage and steered for Cape Sandwich after +passing inside the Palm Island Group. We were now approaching Point +Hillock, which is a point of land projecting for two miles into the sea, +with a small hillock at its extremity; from which Captain Cook named it; +the land rises precipitously behind it to the height of about two +thousand feet and forms a mass of bare rocky hills of a singularly grand +and imposing appearance. It rises nearly perpendicularly from the lower +wooded hills at its base and is as abrupt on its land side as on that +which faces the sea. The summit extends from north to south for seven +miles and forms a narrow craggy ridge on which are several remarkable +peaks. It was called Mount Hinchinbrook and is visible from the deck for +eighteen leagues. + +An opening was observed to trend round the rear of the Mount, and +probably separates it from the mainland. We passed half a mile outside +the low rock off Cape Sandwich, within a group of low rocky isles +(Brooke's Islands) and then steered towards a peaked hill, which was soon +afterwards found to be on the island laid down by Captain Cook in +Rockingham Bay, it now received the name of Goold Island. We then entered +Rockingham Bay and anchored at two miles off Goold Island. + +On passing Cape Sandwich in the afternoon we observed several natives +walking on the shore; and, upon our anchoring, a party was also seen +collected round their huts, on the sandy beach at the west end of Goold +Island; and near them were seven canoes hauled up above the tide mark; +they had kindled a fire to attract our attention, but the day was too far +advanced to allow communicating with them that evening. + +June 20. + +At daylight the following morning I was much surprised by being told that +five canoes were paddling off to the cutter, four of which only held each +one native, but the fifth being rather larger contained two. + +On approaching the cutter they laid off until invited to come alongside; +when they approached without the least alarm or hesitation, and made +signs for something to eat; some biscuit was given to them which they ate +and, unlike all other Australian savages, appeared to relish its taste. +Some little persuasion was necessary to induce them to venture on board; +but as soon as one mounted the ladder the others followed. Their +astonishment was considerably excited at everything that they saw, +particularly at our poultry and live stock. Fishing hooks and lines were +gladly received by them; and in return they gave us their baskets and +turtle pegs; they remained with us for half an hour; upon leaving the +vessel they pointed out their huts and invited us by signs to return +their visit. + +As soon as they had left us Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Cunningham went to the +islet off the west end of Goold Island, and on their way met two other +canoes, containing three men, coming to the cutter from another part of +the bay; after a short communication with our party they paid us the +intended visit, and were soon induced to come on board, where they +remained for half an hour without betraying the least fear or anxiety for +their safety: before they took their leave we had clothed them with some +damaged slops; and in order to give each something, the feet of a pair of +worsted stockings were cut off to make socks for one, whilst the legs +were placed on another's arms; a leathern cap was given to each of them, +and thus accoutred, and making a most ridiculous appearance, they left +us, highly delighted with themselves and with the reception they had met +with. + +As soon as they reached a little distance they began to divest themselves +of their attire, and we had much amusement in witnessing the difficulty +under which the wearer of a shirt laboured to get it off. + +Their canoes were not more than five feet long, and generally too small +for two people; two small strips of bark, five or six inches square, +serves the double purpose of paddling and for baling the water out, which +they are constantly obliged to do to prevent their canoe from sinking; in +shoal water the paddles are superseded by a pole, by which this fragile +bark is propelled. We endeavoured to persuade them to bring off some +spears to barter, for they had no weapon of any description with them, +but they evidently would not understand our meaning. In the evening our +gentlemen proceeded to return these visits, at the spot which was pointed +out by our morning guests: on landing they were met by the natives and +conducted to their huts, where they saw the whole of the male part of +this tribe, which consisted of fifteen, of whom two were old and +decrepit, and one of these was reduced to a perfect skeleton by ulcerated +sores on his legs that had eaten away the flesh and left large portions +of the bone bare; and this miserable object was wasting away without any +application or covering to his sores. + +No teeth were deficient in their jaws; all had the septum narium +perforated, but without wearing any appendage in it. The only ornament +they appeared to possess was a bracelet of plaited hair, worn round the +upper arm. An open wicker basket, neatly and even tastefully made of +strips of the Flagellaria indica, was obtained from one of them by Mr. +Roe, in which they carry their food and fishing lines; besides which each +native has his gourd, the fruit of the Cucurbita lagenaria, which grows +plentifully on all parts of the beach, and furnishes a very useful vessel +to these simple savages for the purpose of carrying water. + +At the north-east end of the sandy beach a fine stream was noticed, from +which water might with facility be obtained. Near this stream Mr. +Cunningham observed several of their ovens, similar to those used by the +natives of Taheite. A circular hole is dug, at the bottom of which is +placed a layer of flat stones, on which, after they have been heated by +fire, the meat is placed; this is covered by another layer of stones, and +over them they make a fire which very soon cooks their repast. In short, +the natives of this bay seem to be much more ingenious and to understand +better what is useful than the generality of their countrymen.* + +(*Footnote. Lieutenant Jeffreys, of the Kangaroo, armed transport, on his +passage to Ceylon in 1815 communicated with these natives; they came on +board his vessel and conducted themselves in an amicable manner towards +him.) + +June 21. + +The next morning we left Rockingham Bay; and steering to the northward +passed within the three easternmost of the Family Islands, as the +Endeavour did, and landed on the north-easternmost of the group, where +the latitude was found to be 18 degrees 2 minutes 9 seconds. This island, +like the rest, is of small extent, and is surrounded by huge detached +rounded blocks of granite, over which it was not easy to pass. It rises +to a peaked summit of a moderate height, but the face of the hill is so +thickly covered with underwood and climbing plants as to render it +perfectly inaccessible. + +Dunk Island, a little to the northward, is larger and higher, and is +remarkable for its double-peaked summit. No natives were seen in passing +these islands, but the smoke of their fires, as usual, lined the coast, +which here began to assume a more improved and favourable appearance: the +shore is diversified by projecting wooded hills and intervening sandy +bays; and, at the back, the hills are very high and separated from each +other by deep valleys, where there must be abundance of water and +probably good soil. + +In the evening the anchor was dropped to the eastward of the two +southernmost islands of a group which was named after my friend Edward +Barnard, Esquire. We were followed all the afternoon by a large +hump-backed whale, a fish which appears to be numerous on all parts of +this coast within the reefs. The wind blew so fresh during the night that +having only the stream anchor down it had imperceptibly dragged through +the mud for nearly a mile to the north-west. + +June 22. + +At daylight we got under sail but the weather had clouded in and bore a +very unsettled appearance. After steering outside the easternmost island +of Barnard's Group we passed Double Point; two miles north of which a +small opening was seen trending in to the south-west. Between Double +Point and Frankland Islands Captain Cook did not see the coast, having +passed it during the night; we therefore traced it with some care, but +found nothing worth particular notice, being a continuity of sandy bays +formed by projecting heads, in some of which natives were observed +walking. + +At 11 hours 30 minutes a.m. we passed Point Cooper. The summit of the +back hills (which were named by Mr. Cunningham's desire after John +Bellenden Ker, Esquire) now began to be enveloped in clouds, and the wind +to increase; and no meridional altitude was obtained, from the +unfortunate state of the weather. At one o'clock we passed between +Frankland's largest Island and a group of four smaller ones which are +connected together by a surrounding rocky reef. At four o'clock we +anchored in a bay on the north-west side of Fitzroy Island, at four miles +from the shore, in eleven and a half fathoms' mud, where we found +complete shelter from the wind which now blew a fresh gale from +south-east. + +June 23. + +The weather continued so unfavourable all the following day that we +remained at the anchorage, and made our stay profitable by filling our +water-casks from a hollow at the back of the beach, which is composed +entirely of coral that has been washed up by the surf. The coral was of +various kinds, but a beautiful specimen of Porites clavaria was obtained +by one of our people who dived for it in two fathoms' water, within a few +yards of the shore. In many parts the coral had been consolidated into +large masses of solid rock. + +Tracks of natives were seen in many parts of the island; and their beaten +paths were noticed leading from the beach to all parts of it; but it did +not appear that it was inhabited during our visit. This delay gave Mr. +Cunningham a good opportunity of increasing his botanical collection. +Among the various trees which grow upon this island he found a nutmeg +tree (Myristica cimicifera), two species of olive (Olea paniculata and +Notoloea punctata), and three palms, namely the Corypha australis or +large fan palm, the Seaforthia elegans, and another, remarkable for its +prickly leaves. We also found and procured seeds of Sophora tomentosa, +and a plant of the natural order scitamineae, Hellenia coerulea, Brown: +two parasitical plants of orchideae were found growing upon the bark of +trees in the shady place near our watering-place; one was Dendrobium +caniculatum, Brown; the other was also subsequently found at Cape Grafton +and is not yet described; it has oblong, three-nerved, thick and leathery +leaves; we saw no quadrupeds and but very few birds. + +June 24. + +On the 24th we left Fitzroy Island and, steering round Cape Grafton, +hauled in towards the centre of Trinity Bay. To the west of Cape Grafton +an opening was observed in the beach that bore every appearance of being +the mouth of a rivulet, from the broken and irregular form of the hills +behind it. + +At noon our latitude was 16 degrees 28 minutes 48 seconds, and three +small islands were in sight ahead, which we passed to seaward of. They +are laid down by Captain Cook as one island, whereas they are distinctly +three, but all connected by a reef which was covered when we passed. At 2 +hours 30 minutes p.m. we anchored under Snapper Island (so called by +Lieutenant Jeffreys), but found the anchorage more open than had been +expected. + +Snapper Island is high and covered with a thick impenetrable mass of +underwood, but no fresh water was found. The ashes of a fireplace, +strewed around with broken shells, was the only trace seen of natives. +The beach, like that of Fitzroy Island, is composed of dead coral and is +fronted by rocks. + +June 25. + +We left this anchorage the next morning with a fresh breeze of wind from +south-east; as we steered round Cape Tribulation the sea ran so heavy +that our boat, which was towed astern, filled and overset, and in a +moment went to pieces. The wind had now increased to a gale, and the +weather threatened so much that we were induced to take advantage of a +bight to the northward of the Cape, in which we anchored at three +quarters of a mile from the mouth of a rivulet, the entrance of which was +blocked up by a ridge of rocks on which the water rippled; we were here +tolerably well sheltered by high land from the wind, and the water was +quite smooth. + +June 26. + +On the following day, the weather continued so unfavourable that we +remained at the anchorage, and Mr. Bedwell was sent to examine the +opening, which was called Blomfield's Rivulet. On his return he reported +the bar to be too shoal to admit an entrance to vessels of greater +draught than four feet, but that having passed it, the inlet runs up a +considerable distance, with soundings from three to four fathoms. + +Near the entrance upon the bank of the inlet several huts were noticed, +and near them Mr. Bedwell found a canoe; which, being hollowed out of the +trunk of a tree, was of very different construction to any we had before +seen; its length was twenty-one feet, but its greatest breadth in the +bilge did not exceed fifteen inches, whilst at the gunwale the opening +was only from six to eight and a half inches wide; an outrigger, +projecting about two feet, was neatly attached to one side, which +prevented its liability to overset, and at each end was a projection, +from fifteen to twenty inches long, on which the natives carry their +fire, or sit; nothing was found in the canoe but two paddles and a long +pole. + +The bay on which we had anchored was called, at first, Shelter Bay; but +it was afterwards changed to Weary Bay in consequence of Captain Cook's +having given that name to the coast in this vicinity. + + +The weather was so thick and unsettled during the afternoon, that we did +not leave this anchorage until nine o'clock the next morning. + +June 27. + +When it was found necessary that we should take advantage of the first +safe anchorage, where we might remain during the continuance of the bad +weather, as well as repair our losses and erect the boat that we had on +board in frame, to replace the one we had lately lost; as Endeavour River +would afford us the necessary convenience and shelter it was determined +that we should visit it, and as its distance from Weary Bay did not +exceed ten leagues, there was every reason to expect that we should reach +it early enough to enter before dark. At half past ten o'clock we passed +between the Hope Islands and the Reef, a. The course was then directed +for the hills on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour River, the +highest of which, a conspicuous peaked hill, received the name of Mount +Cook, in memorial of our celebrated navigator, who suffered so much +distress and anxiety at this place. The bay south of it was that which he +first examined for shelter after his ship had been got off the rocks, but +it was found to be shoal and unfit for his purpose.* It was then that +Endeavour River was discovered; and there, as is well known, the ship was +repaired sufficiently to enable her to proceed to Batavia. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 149.) + +We arrived off the south head of Endeavour River early in the afternoon, +and anchored close to it in three fathoms, with the outer point bearing +South-East. The wind was too fresh to examine the bar until the evening, +and it was then too late to enter. + +June 28. + +But early the next morning the cutter was warped in, in doing which she +grounded on the north side of the bar in eight feet. As the water was +quite smooth, this little delay occasioned no damage, and by twelve +o'clock she was secured to the shore, within ten feet of a steep beach on +the south side of the entrance; in all probability the very same spot +that Captain Cook landed his stores upon forty-nine years ago. + + + +CHAPTER 6. +Transactions at Endeavour River, and intercourse with the Natives. +Examine the River. +Geognostical Remarks. +Leave Endeavour River, and resume the examination of the coast. +Anchor among Howick's Group, and under Flinders' Group. +Explore Princess Charlotte's Bay, and the Islands and Reefs as far as +Cape York, anchoring in the way on various parts of the coast. +The cutter nearly wrecked at Escape River. +Loss of anchor under Turtle Island. +Pass round Cape York and through Torres Strait, by the Investigator's +route. + +1819. June 28. + +As soon as the vessel was secured, the boat's frame was landed, and three +of our people commenced its erection. Previously however to this, the +precaution was taken of burning the grass, to avoid a repetition of the +revengeful and mischievous trick which the natives formerly played +Captain Cook; for in a fit of rage, at not being allowed to take away +some turtles that were lying on the ships' deck, they set fire to the +grass to windward of the tents, by which many stores and sails were +consumed.* + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 177.) + +The moment that a few embers from our fireplace were scattered under the +roots, the grass was in a blaze, and the flames rushed along with +frightful rapidity and destructive effect. Having thus very soon cleared +sufficient space for our purpose, a sail was suspended between two trees, +to shelter the people from the sun at their work upon the boat, the keel +of which was laid the same evening. In the afternoon we discovered two +streamlets near the tent, from which we obtained our water, and wood was +cut close to the beach. + +Near the watering-place were some natives' bark-huts and gourds; and two +or three baskets, made of the leaf of the cabbage palm, were hanging on +the branches of the surrounding bushes. The owners of these implements +were not seen, but it was evident they were near at hand, from the recent +appearance of their traces; the bones of the kangaroo and scales of fish +were strewed about their fireplaces, and close by were ovens similar to +those of Goold Island. + +June 29. + +The following day Mr. Cunningham, being in search of plants, fell in with +a party of natives consisting of ten or twelve men; two of them carried +each a bundle of spears and a throwing-stick: Mr. Cunningham endeavoured +to persuade the three foremost to approach, but they were alarmed at a +dog that was with him; seeing this he sent away the only man who +accompanied him with the animal, and at last enticed them to draw near. +One of them was an elderly man on whose cheek was a recently-healed +spear-wound; after some little communication they were easily induced to +follow him towards our tent, but the moment they saw the cutter's mast +through the trees they stopped, and could not be prevailed upon to +advance a step nearer; and, after devoting some time in watching us from +the hills, walked away. Upon Mr. Cunningham's making his appearance with +the strangers, I went towards him, to prevail upon them to visit our +encampment, but they seemed more anxious that we should follow them, +intimating by signs that they would give us something to eat; neither +party, however, appearing inclined to yield to the other's invitation, +they soon went away. + +June 30. + +But the next day twelve natives boldly visited our watering party, and +followed them to the tent, where they remained some time watching our +movements with great attention. They repeatedly made signs for hatchets, +but evinced great aversion to a clasp-knife, although its use was shown +to them. Mr. Bedwell obtained a shield from one of them, of a crescented +shape, and painted with black stripes; it was made from the wood of the +Erythrina indica or coral tree, which grows abundantly near the +anchorage. This interview lasted two hours, at the end of which we parted +mutually satisfied with each other. Mr. Cunningham saw a kangaroo in one +of his walks, but on mentioning the name of the animal, accompanied by a +gesture descriptive of its leap, the natives did not appear to understand +what was meant, although it was from these very people that Captain Cook +obtained the name;* it was therefore thought to be possible, that in the +space of time elapsed since his visit, this word might have become +obsolete. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 174.) + +1819. July 1. + +The next day no natives came near us, perhaps by reason of the rainy +weather. + +July 2. + +But on the 2nd whilst our people were at the watering-place washing their +clothes, they were visited by twelve natives, some of whom were +strangers: one of them, an elderly man, who had his son with him, a +little boy of eight or nine years of age, appeared very morose and +captious: everything was done by our people to amuse and keep them in +good humour; but upon one of the sailors attempting to comb the head of +the youngster, the old gentleman became so violently enraged that Mr. +Bedwell found it necessary to send away the offender, in order to +conciliate them, for the whole party had armed themselves with stones. +Peace was thus restored, excepting with the individual before-mentioned, +who still continued to be very angry and sulky. When the people left off +washing to go on board to dinner they took their clothes with them, much +against the wish of the natives who made signs that they should be left +and intrusted to their care; this was however prudently and cautiously +refused, for the natives had become very inquisitive, and wished to +possess themselves of everything they saw: they then followed our party +to the tent and amused themselves about us during dinner. They appeared +to be particularly struck with the progress that we had made upon the +boat, which had by this time assumed its shape. Some of them wanted to go +on board, but not liking their appearance and fearful of a rupture by +being obliged to refuse them many things that were about the decks, and +which they would certainly ask for, I desired Mr. Bedwell to divert them +from their wish. After dinner our people returned to resume their +washing; and, taking their tubs and clothes, walked towards the +watering-place, which was about three hundred yards off. Soon afterwards +the natives took their leave, intimating by signs that they were going +to eat; but upon passing by our people at their washing-tubs they +stopped, and endeavoured to persuade one of the sailors, whose fair +complexion led them to imagine that he was of the softer sex, to undress; +the man complied with their request so far as to take off his shirt, but +upon their requiring still further exposure, he declined it rather +unceremoniously, and dressing himself again returned to his occupation. +This opposition to their wishes incensed them so much that they could not +help showing it; they then wanted to take some of the clothes away by +force, and upon being prevented, their conduct evinced strong signs of an +impending rupture; and as two of the natives, one of whom had been on the +most friendly terms with us, had armed themselves with spears, which had +previously been concealed in the mangrove bushes close at hand, one of +our people was immediately despatched to the tent for a musket. The +spears were then divided amongst the natives who fixed them in their +throwing-sticks ready to throw. They then peremptorily insisted that our +people should retire, and leave their clothes behind them, but this being +again refused, they became highly enraged, and running off to a little +distance made a stand, and threw a spear which passed between three of +our people, and broke in the ground: seeing that it had not taken effect, +another spear was thrown which also fell harmless. At this moment the +muskets arrived, and were fired over their heads, upon which they started +off at full speed, and were quickly out of sight. The report of the +muskets soon brought us to the spot, and being informed of the +circumstance, I became alarmed for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was alone +on an excursion; but as his route was known, Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Roe set +off with six men to protect his return; in this they were fortunately +successful, having met him about two miles off, just as he was about to +take a path that would have led him among the natives; who, had they seen +him, would certainly have revenged themselves for their previous defeat +and disappointment. They met him in the morning as he was going out, and +as they knew the direction in which he went they would certainly have +way-laid him. + +Nothing more was heard of the Indians during the day, but this rupture +made us more watchful. A sentry was appointed on shore to protect the +carpenters, and at night four of our people slept close at hand: during +the day a masthead watch was kept to prevent surprise, for the grass +about us was so high that they might have approached unperceived and +wounded some of our people before we could have been aware of their +presence. + +Our work however proceeded without molestation, and the only +inconvenience experienced was the confinement of Mr. Cunningham to the +vicinity of the tent. + +July 2 to 4. + +We saw no natives until Sunday the 4th when two, whose faces were not +familiar to us, came down to the end of the dry sand opposite the cutter +and beckoned for us: they had paddled across from the mangroves at the +back of the port to the low sandy point that forms the west end of the +long north sandy beach, behind which they had left their canoe. Mr. +Bedwell was sent to them in our largest boat, but on his approaching +them, and being within ten yards of the beach, they started and ran off +with considerable speed towards their canoe. When about half way to it +they stopped, and, upon looking back and observing that they were not +pursued, beckoned again. Upon seeing this manoeuvre, it was suspected +that they might have a strong party concealed at the back of the point, +to which they were anxious to decoy our people; the boat was therefore +called alongside and armed and again sent after them. By this time they +had embarked in their canoe and were paddling with all their strength +towards the mangroves on the opposite shore, pursued by our boat until it +was stopped by the shoals in the river; the natives, however, easily +shoved their canoe over it with poles and soon arrived at the opposite +bank, where they were met by several other natives, all of whom +immediately retired into the mangrove bushes which concealed them from +our view. This manoeuvre was evidently intended to decoy us into their +power, and served to increase our caution. + +Soon afterwards their fires were seen about a mile behind the mangroves +and in the evening the canoe was observed to pass up the river with the +same two natives in it. + +July 5. + +On the 5th we landed at the long north sandy point, and measured a base +line of 231 chains from the point to the end of the beach, where it is +terminated by a rocky head that forms the base of a steep hill; this we +climbed, and from its summit obtained a very extensive view of the reefs +near the coast; but as the weather was too hazy to allow of our making +any observation upon distant objects, very few of the reefs in the offing +were distinctly seen. + +On the beach we passed the wreck of a canoe, large enough to carry seven +or eight persons; it measured nineteen feet in length, and twenty-two +inches in the bilge, and appeared, like that of Blomfield's Rivulet, to +be made of the trunk of the Erythrina indica, hollowed out either by fire +or by some blunt tool. A piece of teak-wood, one side of which bore the +marks of green paint, was found washed up on the beach; it had probably +dropped or been thrown overboard from some ship passing by; several +coconuts which had been evidently washed on shore were also lying above +the tides' mark. + +July 6. + +The next day our boat was completed and painted. During our stay at this +harbour the weather was such as would have prevented our moving, even had +we no occupation to detain us; for since our arrival the wind had blown +little less than a constant gale from the South-East, accompanied with +thick rainy weather. This day however appearing finer, I ascended the +hill over the tent; but, on reaching the summit, thick weather set in, +and deprived me of a sight of the reefs in the offing for which I had +principally taken the walk. In our descent our dog started a kangaroo, +but it made its escape before we approached near enough to shoot it. + +At night, owing to the strength of the tides, the stern anchor came home, +and the cutter swung across the tide. + +July 7. + +This compelled me to haul out to the bower anchor, and the next morning +the cutter was moored in the stream. In the afternoon we again ascended +the hills over the anchorage and had a more favourable opportunity of +seeing the reefs in the offing, several of which were set. + +July 8. + +The following morning Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham examined the river as +far as the boat could penetrate. From Mr. Roe's report the country was +low and of unpromising appearance. The river took its course by a very +tortuous channel through a low country: for two or three miles from the +entrance its banks are overrun with dense forests of mangroves; but +beyond this they are superseded by red earthy cliffs, on which was +growing abundance of the Hibiscus tiliaceus. Further back the country is +open and grassy, upon which a stunted eucalyptus is common; here Mr. +Cunningham found two species of grevillea, and the sago palm (Cycas +media) which also grows near the mouth of the river, above which the +Seaforthia elegans occasionally raised its towering head, and with its +picturesque foliage served to vary and enrich the scene. + +Mr. Cunningham, in return for the plants he collected, sowed peach and +apricot stones in many parts near the banks. + +The river is generally very shallow, but at nine miles from the mouth the +water is fresh. At the place where the party turned back the width was +not more than six yards. On their return they examined another arm on the +north side, which proving inconsiderable, and the evening being far +advanced, they did not delay to examine it. + +July 10. + +On the 10th our boat was launched and preparations were made for leaving +the place which has afforded us so good an opportunity of repairing our +defects. + +The basis of the country in the vicinity of this river is evidently +granitic; and, from the abrupt and primitive appearance of the land about +Cape Tribulation and to the north of Weary Bay, there is every reason to +suppose that granite is also the principal feature of those mountains; +but the rocks that lie loosely scattered about the beaches and surface of +the hills on the south side of the entrance are of quartzose substance; +and this likewise is the character of the hills at the east end of the +long northern beach, where the rocks are coated with a quartzose crust, +that in its crumbled state forms a very unproductive soil. The hills on +the south side of the port recede from the banks of the river and form an +amphitheatre of low grassy land, and some tolerable soil upon the surface +of which, in many parts, we found large blocks of granite heaped one upon +another. Near the tent we found coal; but the presence of this mineral in +a primitive country, at an immense distance from any part where a coal +formation is known to exist, would puzzle the geologist, were I not to +explain all I know upon the subject. Upon referring to the late Sir +Joseph Banks's copy of the Endeavour's log (in the possession of my +friend Mr. Brown) I found the following remark, under date of 21st and +22nd June, 1770. "Employed getting our coals on shore." This is also +confirmed in the account of the voyage;* and, when it is taken into +consideration that we found it on no other part than the very spot that +Captain Cook's coals must, from our local knowledge of the place, have +been landed, the difficulty ceases; and there remains no doubt but that +it is a relic of that navigator's voyage, which must have been lying +undisturbed for nearly half a century. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 155.) + +Among the varieties of seeds which were collected at this river were the +following: Grevillea gibbosa; a species of leea; a cassia; a species of +dalea, remarkable for its simple foliage; two species of melaleuca, one +bearing a white, the other a crimson flower; an acacia; two species of +the natural order convolvolaceae, namely, Ipomoea sp. and Ipomoea +gracilis; and a species of the natural order leguminosae allied to +galega; Erythrina indica or the coral-tree; several species of +eucalyptus; a xanthorrhoea; and a great number of other curious plants +which will appear whenever the catalogue of Mr. Cunningham's extensive +botanical collection is published. + +July 11. + +On the 11th at daybreak it was intended that we should leave the river, +but the weather being very thick and foggy with no wind, we were +compelled to remain. During the morning two natives, whom we afterwards +recognised to be the same that came down to the dry sands last Sunday, +were perceived walking from the north end of the long sandy beach towards +the point; and as they passed abreast of us they frequently hailed. Soon +after they had disappeared round the point they were seen to paddle in a +canoe towards the mangroves on the opposite shore; they were armed with +spears, and were perhaps returning from a hunting excursion. Soon after +this they were again perceived paddling along the edge of the mangroves, +apparently engaged in spearing fish with a fiz-gig; which the striker +used in a similar way to that of the natives of Port Jackson; but from +the leisurely manner in which they proceeded it was evidently their +intention to approach us under pretence of fishing. + +They were soon lost sight of by the intervention of the land of the +south-east corner of the port, but in half an hour re-appeared behind the +point which was about fifty yards off. As soon as they found themselves +perceived they uttered some unintelligible words, and made signs of +friendship by patting their breasts; upon which Mr. Roe went in the +jolly-boat, and endeavoured to bring them alongside by keeping their +canoe close to his boat and gently pulling towards the vessel; but upon +their evincing symptoms of fear as they drew nigh he released them, and +beckoned them to follow, which they did for some few seconds; but then +gradually edging off, increased their distance from us; after this Mr. +Roe came on board and by our entirely disregarding their presence and +paying no attention to their movements, the natives assumed confidence +and landed to examine the place where our boat had been constructed, +which they did with great minuteness; upon this some biscuits were thrown +to them from the vessel, which they picked up and pretended to eat. +Finding that we were not inclined to take any further notice of them, +they soon afterwards re-embarked, and, paddling over to the opposite +shore, disappeared round the sandy point. + +Early the next morning we succeeded in getting out of the port, but not +without difficulty on account of the baffling winds which blew in eddies +round the hill. After clearing the bar, the weather began to re-assume +its threatening appearance, but tired of the delay of waiting for fine +weather we determined to proceed, and steered for Cape Bedford. + +July 12. + +Having reached this the course was directed for Cape Flattery, on our way +to which we steered between the Three Isles Group and a low island. On +passing round Cape Flattery our course was directed to Point Lookout, and +within the Turtle Island Group, but to seaward of the islands, q. Shortly +afterwards the islands of Howick's Group were seen to seaward on our bow, +and other low isles ahead; and beyond these was Noble Island. Upon +reaching Howick's Group, a favourable place offering under the lee of the +southernmost island, Number 3, we hauled in and anchored in the strait or +channel that separates it from Number 2. The island, Number 3, being low, +protected us only from the swell, and as the wind blew fresh from the +South-East during the night, with a cross tide, the cutter rode very +uneasily. + +July 13. + +At four o'clock the next morning the cutter was found to have drifted at +least half a mile to leeward, but whether during the first or middle part +of the night it was not easy to discover; had the island Number 2 been a +quarter of a mile nearer, we should have had little chance of escaping +shipwreck, for the night was very dark, and her distance did not exceed +that when she was brought up by veering cable. As it was we were so near +to the rocks that in making preparations to weigh, we had every reason to +expect at least the loss of our anchor. We succeeded, however, in heaving +short, and hoisting the sails without starting it; but it soon after +tripped, and the cutter at the same time casting the wrong way, I was on +the point of ordering the cable to be cut from the bows, when the wind so +favoured us as to enable the cutter to weather the reef; all sail was +instantly made and happily we succeeded both in clearing the reef, which +we passed at the distance of a cables' length, and saving our anchor, +which was quickly hove up and secured. + +After escaping this danger our course was directed to pass outside of +Noble Island, in our way to which four small wooded isles were left +inshore of our track, and named, at Mr. Roe's request, after Captain Sir +Christopher Cole, K.C.B. Between this group and Noble Island two dry +sands were observed. Cape Bowen, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, is a +remarkable projection in the hills, but not on the coast, for it rather +forms a bay. To the northward of it the hills fall back with some +appearance of a rivulet, but the sandy beach was traced from the +masthead, and the opening, if any, was suspected to be a stream +communicating with Ninian Bay. To the eastward of our course, abreast of +Point Barrow, is a shoal, s, about three miles long, whose rocks showed +their heads above the water; beyond this the weather was too hazy to +observe anything. + +Point Barrow is eleven miles to the northward of Cape Bowen, and is a +narrow promontory forming the south head of a deep bay which I intended +to anchor in and examine; for it bore the name of PORT Ninian in +Lieutenant Jeffrey's chart; but on entering it our soundings rapidly +decreased to three and a half fathoms long before Point Barrow sheltered +us from the wind. After steering over to the north side and ascertaining +that the shoal water extended across the bay we stood out again, and +resumed a course along the most rugged and most stony land I ever saw; +the stones are all of rounded form and heaped up in a most extraordinary +and confused manner, as if it were effected by some extraordinary +convulsion of nature. Might they not have been of diluvian origin? This +promontory was named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, Cape Melville. At half past +one o'clock we passed between the straggling rocks which lie off the Cape +and Pipon Island; and as we hauled round Cape Melville into Bathurst Bay +the soundings suddenly decreased upon the edge of a bank, and our +endeavours to find anchorage here were unsuccessful; we therefore stood +across the bay towards Cape Flinders which is the extremity of a group of +islands of high and rugged character forming the western head of Bathurst +Bay. + +On approaching the Cape we saw with surprise the wreck of a vessel thrown +upon the rocks, with her masts and yards lying around her in the greatest +confusion; her hull was divided; the stem and forecastle deck were lying +in one place, and her stern frame with part of her quarterdeck in +another. At some distance from her there were some things like two boats +hauled up on the beach, but not the least sign of her crew. + +As it was too late in the evening to examine any further we passed on, +and, rounding the Cape, anchored on its west side under a flat-topped +hill, in ten fathoms and a half, sandy mud. + +July 14. + +The next morning Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Cunningham accompanied me to examine +the wreck. On pulling round the Cape we found it impossible to land near +her on account of the surf which, from the freshness of the wind blowing +directly upon the place where she was thrown up, was breaking heavily; we +therefore landed on the opposite side of the bay and walked round to +examine the boats; but on reaching the place we found they were canoes of +the natives, of similar construction to that seen on the beach at +Endeavour River. In one of them was the apparatus for striking turtles +which has been noticed by Captain Cook.* Woodcut 4 is descriptive of the +instrument and of the manner in which it is used. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. volume 3 page 232.) + +On the branch of a tree near at hand were three turtles' heads; and since +they had been placed there the young branches had expanded, causing us to +wonder at first how the heads could have passed over them. These remains +of a turtle feast did not assimilate with our ideas of the character of +the Aborigines of this country, and it was then thought much more +probable to be a relic of the crew of the wrecked vessel; we have, +however, since frequently noticed the same thing, which could only have +been left by the natives. After examining the canoes we proceeded round +the bay towards the wreck; in our way to it we passed over a long coral +flat which had been left dry by the ebbing tide. + +On arriving at the wreck a melancholy scene presented itself. It would +appear that she was thrown upon the rocks before she went to pieces; the +upper part of her stern and hull as far forward as her mizen chains were +entire and lying on the stern frame: about 100 yards off was her stem +with part of her forecastle deck, and some of her bow timbers; these were +the only connected parts remaining; the rest of her timbers, decks, +masts, and yards were lying in a confused heap between them. By creeping +under her stern, upon which her name was painted, she was found to be The +Frederick, which ship we remembered to have sailed from Port Jackson +during the early part of last year; search was made for any articles that +might be useful to the survivors but nothing was found: the only part +belonging to a boat that was noticed was a rudder, from which great hopes +were entertained that the crew were enabled, by means of their boats, to +escape from this inhospitable coast and effect an arrival at some +habitable port. Timor appeared to us to be the only probable place, but +we were there last June and nothing had then been heard of them. That the +crew had been upon the island was certain, for oars and spars were found +erected in the fissures of the rocks at the projections of the cape, +evidently placed there by the crew to attract the attention of vessels +passing. The mizen mast and main topmast had been cut away, and there +were a few marks of the axe upon her mainmast. The natives appeared to +have taken notice of the ironwork, for some spike nails were found about +their fireplaces; these traces, however, were not very recent, nor was it +probable that any natives were upon the island at the time of our visit. + +The hills about Cape Flinders and the low shores of the bay in which we +found the wreck furnished Mr. Cunningham with a large collection of +plants and seeds, and among them was a species of melaleuca, not hitherto +known, and which Mr. Cunningham has described under the name of Melaleuca +foliosa; he also found a mimusops, and a grevillea (Grevillea gibbosa) +remarkable for its ligneous spherical capsules: and on the sandy shore at +the south end of the bay we found and procured a large quantity of the +bulbous roots of a crinum (angustifolium?). + +July 15. + +In a bay to the southward of the cutter's anchorage some mud oysters were +found, which were not ill flavoured. Shellfish was abundant on the flats +in Wreck Bay but we were unsuccessful with the hook and line, although +surrounded by fish of various descriptions. + +July 16. + +On the 16th, as soon as day dawned, we left this anchorage. At sunset we +anchored at the bottom of Princess Charlotte's Bay, in three fathoms, +from which the low shore was visible as far as west; an opening among the +back hills in the South-East probably affords a fresh stream, but as no +break was observed on the beach we did not examine it further. About four +miles from the anchorage was a small opening in the mangroves, but of too +little importance to take any notice of. + +July 17. + +At daylight the next morning we were under sail and steering up the west +side of the bay. The coast trends to the northward and continuing low and +wooded is fronted by a sandy beach; several shoals and a range of low +wooded islands, which were called Claremont Isles, now began to show +themselves as we proceeded, and at sunset we anchored for the night under +the island marked 2. + +July 18. + +The following day we passed onward, leaving several low wooded isles to +seaward, and steered obliquely towards the coast, which still possessed +the same low and wooded appearance as yesterday. + +Cape Sidmouth now came in sight, and as we approached it the shoals +became much more numerous and dangerous, from being composed either of +sand or of a brown-coloured rock. In the offing they are all of coral, +the limits of which, from their colour, are so defined that you sail in +perfect security; but near Cape Sidmouth the shoals are not visible until +close by, and we were twice very nearly thrown upon them. As we advanced +we left several low woody isles to seaward of our track; and at sunset +anchored under a larger island than is usual hereabout, which, as it will +always be a stopping place for vessels bound up the coast, was named +Night Island. + +July 19. + +At nine o'clock the following morning, after a rainy disagreeable night, +we proceeded and steered parallel with the shore. At half past eleven +o'clock we were abreast and inshore of Sherrard's Islets. Steering +onwards we passed within a low sandy island covered with bushes, and to +seaward of a bare rock which lies a mile and a half south of Cape +Direction; round this projection the land trends to the westward and +forms a deep bay with Cape Weymouth, which Lieutenant Jeffreys has named +Lloyd's Bay. Upon rounding Cape Weymouth, the land was observed to trend +deeply in to the westward; and, as the bay appeared to offer shelter, I +was tempted to haul round Bligh's Restoration Island for the purpose of +anchoring; but in this we were prevented by the rocky quality of the +bottom. On our way to Forbes' Islands, which I wished to visit, our +course was intercepted by the reef which extended in a North-West and +South-East direction; we steered along its western side, at a quarter of +a mile from it, until five o'clock, when we hauled round its north end +and again steered for Forbes' Islands; but at sunset, being again impeded +by a shoal that crossed our course, we anchored under its lee in fifteen +fathoms mud, at about three or four hundred yards off its edge. + +July 20. + +The next morning was so thick and unfavourable that we delayed getting +under weigh until after eight o'clock, when, without its wearing a more +improved appearance, we steered to the north-west towards the mainland. +At ten o'clock, we passed between Piper's Islets and then steering north +passed at about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of a small rocky +shoal on which were two small trees. This particular is recorded as it +may be interesting at some future time to watch the progress of this +islet, which is now in an infant state; it was named on the occasion +Young Island. + +A high lump in the North-North-East was named Haggerston's Island; and to +the northward is a group of isles off Cape Grenville, which was named in +compliment to Sir Everard Home, Bart. + +In steering round the group, we came upon Captain Cook's track, but left +it again by bearing away to the westward towards a bay on the north side +of Cape Grenville. Upon reaching within Sunday Island, so named by +Captain Bligh, soundings were struck in seven fathoms, but in three +heaves they decreased to two fathoms hard sand, although our distance +from the shore was at least three miles. We then bore away to the +northward and anchored in five fathoms and a half, at a mile from Sunday +Island, which bore between North 23 degrees and 44 degrees East +(magnetic). The bay I called Margaret Bay; its shores are low and +composed of a remarkable white sand. + +July 21 to 22. + +We were detained at this anchorage from thick and squally weather for two +days. On the 22nd the gentlemen visited Sunday Island. The island is +composed of a heap of rocks covered with a thickly-matted underwood, and +surrounded by a coral reef; it is about a mile and a half in +circumference and rather higher than the islands in its vicinity. It had +been visited by the natives some time since, but there were no traces of +turtle, nor anything to induce our gentlemen to repeat their visit. + +July 24. + +Early on the morning of the 24th we left Margaret Bay; and steering to +the northward passed close round the western side of the Bird Isles of +Captain Cook. Eight or ten natives were standing on the sandy point of +the north-easternmost islet, attentively engaged in watching us as we +passed by; and near them were two canoes hauled up on the beach. The +canoes appeared to be of similar construction to that seen at Endeavour +River; but certainly were not more than sixteen or eighteen feet in +length. The late Admiral Bligh, in his account of the Bounty's voyage, +has described one that he saw and measured at Sunday Island, the place we +had just left; it was thirty-three feet long and would hold twenty men; +but from his account it must have been of bark, for he says, "the canoe +was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which the sides were +sewed in the common way."* The largest canoe that we have seen did not +measure more than eighteen feet in length. + +(*Footnote. Bligh's Voyage to the South Seas page 210.) + +After leaving this group we experienced a considerable swell from the +South-East which would indicate this part of the coast to be less +occupied by reefs than it is more to the southward; particularly between +Cape Grenville and Cape Tribulation where the outer or barrier reefs are +nearer to the coast than in any other part. + +Our course was held outside of two groups of islets one of which was +called Hannibal's, and the other McArthur's Group. At eleven o'clock a +larger islet was passed by; at half past twelve o'clock we were abreast +of Captain Cook's Orfordness, and of Captain Bligh's Pudding-Pan Hill; +continuing our course parallel to the coast we passed half a mile inside +of Cairncross Island which is about half a mile in length; it has a reef +extending for more than a mile off its +south point, under which a vessel might securely anchor. At 3 hours 30 +minutes p.m. Bligh's Turtle Island was seen, for which we steered; but, +attracted by the flattering appearance of an opening in Newcastle Bay, we +hauled in to examine it. As we stood towards it the soundings were very +regular until we were within the projecting points of the coast, when the +quality of the bottom changed from mud to sand; and with this the depth +began to decrease. The opening trended deeply in to the North-West and +bore the character of a river with a good port at its embouchure; the +heads of which were rocky and apparently bold, but the light colour of +the water between them indicated that its entrance was shoal, and would +prove both intricate and dangerous to pass. Sooner however than was +expected the water shoaled to three fathoms; and before it was possible +to avoid it the vessel struck: the helm was put up, but she continued to +beat on a hard sandy bottom as her head paid off. Some time elapsed, for +it was blowing strong, before the main sheet could be hauled in to gybe +the sail; during which the cutter was running along the shoal or bar in +ten feet water, which was not sufficient to float her; for she struck the +ground violently every time that the swell passed by. Upon the main boom +being got over, and the vessel's heel touching the ground at the same +instant, her head flew up in the wind, and she was very nearly thrown +back upon the bank. This was, however, fortunately prevented: in a few +seconds she reached deeper water and we providentially escaped a danger +which had so nearly proved fatal to the vessel and our lives; for had the +cutter remained a-ground on the bank during the night the sea was so +heavy that there would not have been the least vestige of her the +following morning. To commemorate this occurrence, I have distinguished +the opening with the name of Escape River. + +Having reached an offing we bore up for Turtle Island, intending to pass +within it and anchor under its lee; but the appearance of the inner +channel being suspicious, the plan was altered and we passed outside. As +soon as we were to the northward of it we hauled in, but were prevented +from anchoring under its lee by a reef that extended for a considerable +distance off its north side. We were now rather critically placed for the +evening was closing in with every appearance of bad weather, and we were +obliged to anchor in a very exposed situation without any protection +either from the wind or sea. During the night the former blew hard from +the South-East with thick rainy weather; and, with tide, raised a short +deep swell, that caused the cutter to ride very uneasily at her anchor. + +July 25. + +At four o'clock in the morning the ring of the anchor broke and we +drifted a cable's length to leeward before another could be dropped. At +daylight the wind blew so hard as to prevent our picking up the broken +anchor and we proceeded towards Mount Adolphus, passing half a mile to +the eastward of Albany Islands that lie off the south-east end of Cape +York. + +As the soundings between Mount Adolphus and the Investigator's track to +the north of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands had not been previously laid +down by Captain Flinders, I determined on passing out that way; and after +clearing the channel between Mount Adolphus and Cape York, steered for +the North-East end of Wednesday Island, leaving the rock, a, a quarter of +a mile to the eastward of our course. Off the extremity of Cape York is +an island of conical shape separated from it by a very narrow rocky +channel. The land to the westward of this projection trends slightly in +and forms a sandy bay fronted by a reef and some rocky islets. The hills +at the back of Cape York are moderately high and rugged, and only covered +with a slight vegetation. + +Mount Adolphus is high and flat topped and there was some appearance of a +good anchorage in a bight under its north-west side, where also the side +of the hill appeared to be thickly wooded, and worth a visit, but the +lateness of the hour did not permit the delay. + +In passing near the rocky islet which lies off the south-east end of +Wednesday Island we narrowly escaped striking upon some rocks, two of +which were seen about fifty yards off under our lee bow, on which the sea +broke heavily. + +As we passed round the north side of Wednesday Island, six natives were +observed running along the beach, waving their arms and hallooing to us: +previous to their appearance a large fire had been kindled by them in the +woods over the beach, evidently with a view to attract our attention, but +in vain, for we were too much occupied for the safety of the vessel to +attend to them. + +In passing the rock off the north end of Hammond's Island the tide was +observed to be rushing past it, with great rapidity to the westward. + +At half past one o'clock we hauled up towards the south end of Good's +Island, intending to anchor there for the night, that we might have the +whole of the next day to leave the Strait. About half a mile from the +shore the anchor was let go in seven fathoms gravelly bottom, but in +checking the cable the arm of the anchor broke. The strain in bringing up +was not so violent as to have caused the accident, had the anchor been +properly made; but to its ill shape, and being badly wrought, our +misfortune is to be attributed. It was made at Port Jackson. On another +occasion it might have caused the loss of the vessel; but fortunately a +few hours' daylight and a clear run before us enabled us to proceed, and +before sunset we passed Booby Island. A remarkable coincidence of our +losses upon the two voyages has now occurred: last year at the North-West +Cape we lost two anchors just as we were commencing the survey, and now, +on rounding the North-East Cape to commence our examination of the north +coast, we have encountered a similar loss, leaving us, in both instances, +only one bower anchor to carry on the survey. + +Booby Island is a mere rock, the retreat of boobies (Pelecanus fiber, +Linn.) and turtles of the hawks-bill species. Some slight vegetation was +perceived upon it but it was so entirely covered with the excrement of +birds that it had the appearance of being white-washed. The number of +these birds was almost incredible, and they hovered over and about us as +we passed, as if to drive us from their haunt. + +The loss of two anchors prevented our trusting the third while smarting +under our misfortune, or we should have anchored under Booby Island to +have obtained some sights for the time-keepers, as well as to have +furnished the crew with a fresh meal of turtle. + +Eleven weeks had now elapsed since leaving Port Jackson; during which +time I had been able to lay down the different projections of the coast +and our track within the barrier reefs between the Percy Islands and Cape +York; besides having surveyed Port Macquarie, examined Rodd's Bay, and +constructed our boat at Endeavour River. + +Until we passed Cape Grafton the weather was generally fine and +favourable for our purpose; but between that Cape and Torres Strait it +had been thick and cloudy with frequent rain; which not only increased +the danger of the navigation, but also considerably retarded our +progress; and, from the continual dampness of the cabins below, which, +from the small size of the vessel and our not possessing the advantage of +a stove to dry them, it was impossible to prevent, occasioned much +sickness; but fortunately it was checked by our reaching a more +salubrious climate. The attention I was obliged to pay to the invalids +took up a great deal of my time which ought to have been otherwise and +more advantageously employed in the object of the voyage. Sailors, of all +other people, are the most incautious and careless in contracting +illness; but when attacked there are none that require more attendance +and nursing; besides, they were unwilling in the first instance to trust +to my ignorance, until increasing sickness obliged them, and then my fear +was that although I might be of service and check the disorder, their +complaint was possibly not understood by me, and that eventually, instead +of curing, I might destroy my patient. And to these fears my mind was so +constantly alive that on some occasions I thought of little else. + +Captain Cook thus describes the method by which the natives of Endeavour +River catch turtle: "For striking turtle they have a peg of wood, which +is about a foot long, and very well bearded; this fits into a socket, at +the end of a staff of light wood, about as thick as a man's wrist, and +about seven or eight feet long: to the staff is tied one end of a loose +line about three or four fathoms long, the other end of which is fastened +to the peg. To strike the turtle, the peg is fixed into the socket, and +when it has entered his body, and is retained there by the barb, the +staff flies off and serves for a float to trace their victim in the +water; it assists also to tire him, till they can overtake him with their +canoes and haul him on shore. One of these pegs, as I have mentioned +already, we found in the body of a turtle, which had healed up over it. +Their lines are from the thickness of a half-inch rope to the fineness of +a hair, and are made of some vegetable substance, but what in particular +we had no opportunity to learn." Hawkesworth's Coll. volume 3 page 232. + +The above method differs only from that used by the natives of Rockingham +Bay and Cape Flinders; in that the float is another piece of light +buoyant wood--the staff being retained in his hand when the turtle is +struck. The reader will here recognize, in this instrument, a striking +resemblance to the oonak and katteelik, the weapons which Captain Parry +describes the Esquimaux to use in spearing the seal and whale. (Parry's +Second Voyage of Discovery pages 507 and 509.) + + + +CHAPTER 7. +Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and resume the survey of the North Coast +at Wessel's Islands. +Castlereagh Bay. +Crocodile Islands. +Discovery and examination of Liverpool River. +Natives. +Arrive at Goulburn Island. +Complete wood and water. +Attacked by the natives from the cliffs. +Leave Goulburn Island, and pass round Cape Van Diemen. +Resume the survey of the coast at Vernon's Islands in Clarence Strait. +Paterson Bay. +Peron Island. +Anson Bay. +Mr. Roe examines Port Keats. +Prevented from examining a deep opening round Point Pearce. +Discovery of Cambridge Gulf. +Lacrosse Island. +Natives. +Examination of the Gulf. +Death of one of the crew. +Leave Cambridge Gulf. +Trace the coast to Cape Londonderry. + +1819. July 26. + +On our voyage from Torres Strait to the western head of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, which is Cape Arnhem, no incident occurred of sufficient +interest to be worth recording; but no sooner had we passed Torres Strait +than a very sensible difference was perceived in the temperature: the +thermometer was observed to range between 75 and 83 degrees, which was +about 3 degrees higher than it did on the south side of the Strait; this +change produced a drier air and finer weather and soon restored our +invalids to perfect health. + +July 27. + +Soon after daylight on the 27th Wessel's Islands, which had been seen the +preceding evening, were descried bearing from West-North-West to +South-West by West; and shortly afterwards lower land was observed more +to the northward, towards the extremity of which we steered. + +The eastern side of Wessel's Islands presents a level aspect; only a few +shrubby trees appear at intervals to break the uniformity of its gently +undulating outline. The point, which is named Cape Wessel, is the +extremity of the northernmost island of the group and is separated from +that to the southward of it by a narrow and apparently a rocky strait. + +On approaching within a mile and a half of the Cape we passed through a +strong rippling tide without having soundings with fifteen fathoms. Six +natives were seen sitting on the verge of the cliffs that overhang the +Cape, watching us as we passed; and farther on two more were observed +walking on the beach. On the west side of the Cape is a small sandy bay +in which there appeared to be good anchorage. + +In passing this bay we fell into another strong tide race, in which the +sea curled and foamed about us as if we were in the midst of breakers; +but, as before, no bottom was found with fifteen fathoms. The water was +very thick, from the mud being stirred up by the violence of the tide, +which must have been setting at the rate of three miles and a half per +hour; for we were going nearly five knots by the log, and yet made +scarcely any way: we were therefore obliged to steer more off, to get out +of the influence of the tide, which proved to be the ebb setting to the +North-East. + +By a meridional observation at noon the latitude of the Cape was found to +be 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, which is 19 minutes more northerly than the +land which bounded Captain Flinders' view when he passed by in the +Cumberland. The breadth of these islands is very inconsiderable; for as +we sailed down their western coast the cliffs on their opposite sides +were occasionally discerned; and at one part half a mile appeared to be +the greatest breadth. The low and sandy character of the western sides of +these islands differs much from that of the opposite shore, where the +coastline is formed by steep rocky cliffs whose bases are washed by the +sea. The night was passed at anchor. + +July 28. + +And the next morning the cutter was, with the assistance of the flood +tide, making quick progress to the southward. + +At noon we were abreast of the opening through which Captain Flinders +passed; it was called Cumberland Strait, after his little vessel. At one +o'clock some islands came in sight to the westward of our course +(South-West 1/2 South) between which and the range of Wessel's Islands I +intended to pass; but after standing on for some distance through the +channel against a strong tide setting at the rate of three miles and a +half per hour, it was perceived that the opening formed a communication +with Arnhem Bay. Being convinced of the fact we tacked and passed round +the northernmost extremity of the western range of islands, for doing +which we had nearly paid dear; a strong rippling was perceived to extend +for three miles off the point; but as it appeared to be occasioned by the +tide setting round it we stood on with the intention of going through +them. Near their edge soundings were suddenly obtained with nine fathoms +and successive casts decreased the depth to six, five, and three and +three-quarters fathoms; the helm was put a-lee to return but the wind at +the same moment dying away, the vessel became ungovernable, and was +drifted over the spit; fortunately however we found sufficient depth to +prevent striking. As soon as the danger was passed the water deepened to +nine, and in a few heaves we found no bottom with thirteen fathoms; the +night was passed at anchor. + +July 29. + +And the next morning we resumed our course to the southward in a parallel +direction with the coast; at noon our observation proved that the rocky +islets round which we passed last evening were those off Captain +Flinders' Point Dale. There was however an error of ten miles in the +latitude, which was so unusual an occurrence in the charts of that +navigator that for some time I doubted the justice of my suspicions; but +on referring to the account of his voyage it appeared that no meridional +observation was obtained by him for the latitude near this channel; and +also that the weather when he passed through was thick and cloudy. This +error therefore, when he was unassisted by an observation for his +latitude in a place where the tide sets at the rate of three or four +knots, did not appear at all improbable; and as my conjectures by +comparing our respective plans were soon afterwards confirmed, we hauled +in for the extremity of the land in sight. + +The Strait to the eastward of Point Dale I have named after my friend +Robert Brown, Esquire, the profound botanist of that voyage. + +In the evening we anchored about three miles from a low rocky island; +beyond which is an opening like a rivulet, but it was so inconsiderable +in appearance that I was not induced to examine it farther. + +July 30. + +The next evening we anchored at the bottom of a bay and inside of a group +of islands which appear to be the Crocodils Eylandts of the old charts. +The bay was called after the late Viscount Castlereagh, then Secretary of +State for the Foreign Department. Two or three small openings that were +noticed at the bottom of the bay are probably the embouchures of as many +rivulets. This part of the country is low and of uninteresting aspect; +dwarf timber appears to pervade the summits of the land near the coast, +and of so level an outline that it bears a strong resemblance to a +clipped hedge. + +July 31. + +At daylight we were enveloped in a dense fog which nearly concealed the +land; but on weighing two conspicuous points were set, by which I was +enabled to connect my survey. Soon afterwards the fog spread so thickly +over us that the land was entirely concealed; and as the water was shoal +we were obliged to anchor until the fog cleared off, when we again got +under weigh and ascertained the form of the south-west corner of the bay; +it is of very shoal approach: our anchorage at night was not more than +four miles and a half to the north-east of that of the evening before. + +1819. August 1. + +The next day we attempted to steer to sea between the islands but our +course was interrupted by a reef which connected the islets on either +side of us; being thus embayed, we were obliged to anchor, but as the +wind was light no danger was anticipated. Mr. Roe was sent in a boat to +sound about our anchorage: on his return he reported the water to be of +tolerably even depth, excepting to the southward where there was a spit, +on which the least water was four and three quarters fathoms, beyond +which it deepened again. + +As the night advanced, the wind freshened from the South-East and +rendered our situation extremely unsafe. When the tide made against the +wind the swell rose and caused our only remaining anchor to drag; more +cable was instantly veered; but as the vessel did not bring up and we +were drifting towards the reef no alternative was left but to weigh and +keep under sail; which, during a long and dark night, and near so +extensive a reef, was running great risk. Our loss of anchors was now +much felt for no sooner were we under sail than the wind died away; and +from the heavy swell the cutter was so ungovernable that the vessel twice +missed stays in endeavouring to tack in shoal water; fortunately the +water deepened again on standing on, or nothing could have prevented our +going on shore. After plying to windward for an hour the weather tide +ceased; when the disadvantage of a lee tide was counterbalanced by +smoother water and a steadier breeze. We passed a very anxious night, but +without encountering any accident. + +August 2. + +With daybreak the breeze freshened; and at noon we were near the small +easternmost islet of the group. The afternoon was passed in steering +round the northern side of the island; but before sunset we had to alter +the course twice for shoal water, being at one time within half a mile of +a reef that was nearly dry. + +During this night the cutter was kept under weigh. + +August 3. + +And at daylight was considerably to the westward of our reckoning from +the effect of a current. The land to the westward of the Crocodile +Islands trends deeply in, forming a bay in which two low wooded islands +were noticed. As we steered into it the water shoaled; and as there was +nothing to induce our persevering we steered round the next point of +land, and anchored at sunset to leeward of a shoal projecting in a +North-West direction from the point. The coast falls back round this +point and forms an unsheltered bay seven or eight miles deep. + +August 4. + +The following morning our course was held parallel with the shores of the +bay towards a point of land which afterwards proved to be the eastern +head of a deep opening. + +To the northward of this point was an island and farther on to seaward a +dry sandbank. As we approached the point we were obliged to haul off for +there was evidently a shoal communication between it and the island, and +every appearance of its being connected with the sandbank in the offing. +The dark colour of the water on the other side of this line of +communication induced me to stand round the sandbank; when, as was +expected, we entered a deep channel leading towards the most distant +parts of the bight, which afterwards turned out to be the mouth of a +river. The sandbank was called Haul-round Islet and the island Entrance +Island. In passing between the latter and a reef on the western side of +the channel, about half or three-quarters of a mile from the shore, we +had fourteen fathoms mud; after which it gradually decreased in depth; +having reached the mouth of the river we anchored in three fathoms about +four miles within Entrance Island. The remainder of the day, which was +far advanced, was spent in making preparations for our examination of the +river; at low water the tide had fallen ten feet and the cutter took the +ground; but as it was on soft mud it was of little consequence. + +August 5. + +The following morning as soon as the ebb tide ceased I left the cutter in +a boat, accompanied by Messrs. Bedwell and Cunningham, and proceeded up +the river. The banks on either side were, for ten or twelve miles, so +thickly and impenetrably lined with very large mangroves as to defy all +attempts of landing; above this these trees were less abundant and the +banks were occasionally clear from fifty to two hundred yards in extent; +however the view thus obtained did not impress us with any flattering +idea of the country at the back. On passing the second open bank we +observed a canoe hauled up on the shore, and at a little distance farther +we saw another; these were the first indications we had observed of the +presence of natives, excepting the large fires that were burning a little +way in from the banks. + +At the next open bank on the eastern side we put ashore to give the +boat's crew an opportunity of getting their dinner, and as we landed I +discharged my fowling-piece at some birds; upon ascending the bank we +found that the report of the gun had alarmed four natives, two of whom +were females with children on their backs; they were retreating in haste +towards a smoke, the fire of which was concealed from us by high grass: +as soon as they reached the fire they stopped and began to call out in +loud shrill tones, when they were soon surrounded by twenty-five natives +who immediately commenced hallooing and shouting to us in a menacing way; +after some consultation two of them advanced armed with spears; upon +which I ordered a musket to be brought from the boat, which was concealed +from their view by the bank of the river; seeing this the Indians stopped +and retreated to their party, who immediately set up a yell of loud and +angry cries accompanied with the most furious gesticulations. As the tide +was still flowing and I was not very anxious to communicate with these +people, from whose neighbours at Goulburn Island we had already +experienced much treachery, and who, if inclined to be quarrelsome, +might, from the small breadth of the river, considerably annoy and impede +our farther progress, we re-embarked and proceeded up the river under the +momentary expectation of either seeing or hearing them at every bend and +open bank; we were not, however, molested; and at sunset, as we had +reached a considerable distance from their encampment, and had not seen +any alligators, we landed to pass the night upon the shore, and soon +pitched our tent. We had, however, no sooner refreshed and composed +ourselves to rest than we were alarmed by a loud shout, and upon +listening attentively it was again heard. It was now our firm opinion +that we had landed in the vicinity of another tribe, who upon seeing our +fire had alarmed their companions. + +The muskets were therefore placed in readiness and a watch set to give +our party warning if they approached. In the middle of the night the +noise was again heard, but upon being repeated several times it was +discovered that we had been deceived by the screams of a bird whose note +exactly resembled the human cry. Our fears of being attacked by the +natives being now dispelled, our party composed themselves again to rest, +but without obtaining any sleep in consequence of the immense swarms of +mosquitoes, which buzzing about in incredible numbers were not to be kept +from stinging us by any measures we could devise. The tent was very soon +deserted and many other places were tried in vain; the only method at all +successful, by which some respite was obtained, was by lying upon the +ground within two feet of the blaze of the fire; the heat and smoke of +which, with the danger of our clothes catching fire, were insignificant +inconveniences compared with the mosquitoes' stings; and those only who +placed themselves in this situation obtained a few hours' sleep. + +August 6. + +At daylight, begrimed with dirt and smoke, we re-embarked, and pulled +five miles further up the river, when its further examination was given +up; at this place its breadth was about twenty yards, and being high +water the greatest depth was twelve feet; at low water the channel must +be nearly dry. We did not reach the cutter until six o'clock in the +evening, much exhausted for want of rest, and from exposure to a powerful +sun, and a hot land wind that prevailed all day. + +This river, which I have named the Liverpool, runs up from a well-formed +port about forty miles, taking in its way a very serpentine course; its +breadth at Entrance Island is about four miles; ten miles from the mouth +its width is about half a mile, after which it very gradually decreases; +at about fourteen miles from our anchorage the water is fresh at half +tide but at low water it might probably be obtained four or five miles +lower down. The bottom is muddy as are also the banks; and in consequence +the latter are only accessible at high tide, at which time they are +seldom more than two or three feet above the water's edge. The country +within is very level, and appeared during the wet season to be +occasionally inundated: the soil where we landed is a sour stiff clay on +which grew an arundinaceous grass. + +At one place where the bank was about fifteen feet high and formed of red +clay Mr. Cunningham landed, and collected a variety of interesting +plants. The open banks of the river were covered with salicorniae and +other common chenopodeae; and, in the midst of the usual assemblage of +rhizophoreae, the Avicennia tomentosa, Linn. was observed of remarkable +growth, being in many parts from fifty to sixty feet high, three feet in +diameter at the base, and of a straight tapering poplar shape. + +Fish was plentiful and on the muddy banks, as the water fell, we saw +myriads of small amphibious fishes skipping about: they are probably of +the same kind as those seen by Captain Cook at Thirsty Sound and by +Captain Flinders at Keppel Bay,* on the east coast. Captain Cook +describes the species he saw to be a small fish, about the size of a +minnow, furnished with two very strong breast fins, by the assistance of +which it leaped away upon being approached, as nimbly as a frog. The fish +I have just noticed appeared to be of a very similar description, +excepting that it did not seem to avoid the water as that of Thirsty +Sound; for Captain Cook says in a subsequent paragraph that it preferred +the land to water; for it frequently leaped out of the sea, and pursued +its way upon dry ground, and chose rather to leap from stone to stone +than pass through the puddles of water in its way.** + +(*Footnote. Flinders Terra Australis volume 2 page 26.) + +(**Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 125.) + +The egret that we had seen last voyage in the Alligator River was also +seen here; and white cockatoos were in large flights, but hawks were +unusually rare. The bird, called by the colonists at Port Jackson the +native companion (Ardea antigone, Linn.) was seen where the natives were. +As we returned several alligators swam past the boat; but they were +neither so large nor so numerous as those of the Alligator Rivers; the +largest not being more than twelve or thirteen feet long. Upon seeing +these monsters we congratulated ourselves on our escape, for had we known +of their existence in this river before we passed the night on its bank, +the danger of being surprised by the natives and the stings of the +mosquitoes would have dwindled into insignificance in comparison with the +presence of such voracious animals. On our return down the river a snake +was seen about five feet long, of a light red colour, but it escaped by +gliding into the long matted grass. + +August 7. + +On the 7th we left the river and proceeded to the westward; round Point +Hawkesbury the land falls back extending first in a south-west, and then +in a west-north-west direction, until it was lost to our view behind a +point, which we afterwards discovered to be the Point Braithwaite of our +last voyage, the land of which had the appearance of being an island. + +The bay thus formed was called Junction Bay; it was not examined, but, +from the direction of its trend, did not appear likely to afford much +interest, and could lead to no opening of importance. + +August 8. + +At eight o'clock the next morning we were near Goulburn Island, steering +through Macquarie Strait; and at eleven o'clock we anchored in South-west +Bay, near our former watering-place. + +As soon as the vessel was secured I went on shore to examine whether +water could be obtained. In this object we were successful; and a basin +was dug to receive the water that drained through the cliffs; but, from +the advanced state of the dry season, it did not flow in half the +quantity that it did last year. The vegetation appeared to have suffered +much from drought and the grass, which at our last visit was long and +luxuriant, was now either parched up by the sun or destroyed by the +natives' fires, which at this time were burning on the low land in front +of Wellington Range. + +In the evening I went to Bottle Rock, but found our bottle had been +removed; the rocks were covered with the eggs of terns, of which the +boat's crew collected eight dozen. On our return to the cutter a turtle +was noticed swimming towards the sandy beach at the north end of the bay, +which induced me to send a boat's crew on shore to watch its landing, but +in this they were unsuccessful. At their return at night they reported +having seen the recent marks of natives and of a dog on the beach. + +August 9. + +The following morning Mr. Bedwell went with a watering party to the +shore; the tide had however reached the hole, and spoilt what had been +collected during the night: after cleaning the hole again he visited our +last year's wooding-place where he found some remains of our cuttings; +but the greater part had been burnt. On his return to the watering-place +the well was full, and the party commenced their occupation: they had +however scarcely been twenty minutes employed before a shower of large +stones was thrown down upon them by a party of natives who suddenly +appeared on the verge of the cliff; but as suddenly retreated upon a +volley of muskets being fired over their heads from our boat, which we +had previously taken the precaution of mooring off the shore as we had +done last year. After this our people continued their work without being +further molested although many other attacks were premeditated by the +natives during the day, they having once or twice approached near the +verge of the cliffs; but their courage forsook them before they were +sufficiently near to throw either spears or stones with effect. A flag +was always hoisted on board whenever they were observed advancing, which +prepared our people on the beach to give them a reception. This signal +was certainly noticed by the natives, for they always stopped short the +moment it was displayed. + +The run of water was so trifling that we could not procure more than from +sixty to one hundred gallons per day, for while the high tides lasted the +well in the morning was always found full of salt water. This +inconvenience did not occur last year because it was not found necessary +to dig a hole, the stream being of itself sufficiently abundant for our +purpose. + +August 10 to 16. + +The delay however was not lost, inasmuch as it gave an opportunity of +finding new rates for the watches, as well as of obtaining a set of lunar +observations for the longitude. + +On the 13th Mr. Bedwell went to Sims' Island for turtle but no recent +tracks were observed, excepting the remains of one that had a week before +furnished a repast to the natives. Near to this place were found +disinterred some of the bones of a human body that had been buried in a +grave close by, not longer than two or three months since. The footsteps +of the followers of the body to the grave were still visible in the sand, +but other steps appeared to have been more recently impressed; which must +have been those of the natives, who had dug the body up either from a +motive of curiosity or revenge. + +I cannot account for the absence of many of the bones of the skeleton +unless the natives are cannibals, of which we have hitherto neither had +proofs nor entertained the least suspicion; dogs or birds may certainly +have carried them off, or the natives themselves may have removed them as +trophies or as evidences of their discovery to their companions on the +main. From the quantity of bamboo which was found scattered about the +spot there was every reason to conclude it was the grave of a Malay; and +according to the time of the Malay fleet's passing these islands last +year, they would at this time have quitted it about three months, which +will nearly agree with the appearance of the bones and the grave. On +returning on board our party brought a great quantity of the bulbous +roots of a crinum which grows abundantly among the rocks on Sims' Island. + +August 17. + +On the 17th our wood and water were embarked; the former having been +obtained from the verge of the cliff immediately over the watering-place +and thrown over, was readily conveyed to the boats. When our party first +mounted the cliffs a throwing stick, a broken spear, and some stones were +found that had evidently been left by the natives in their hasty retreat +when the muskets were fired: the spear was made of the mangrove tree, +hardened and made straight by exposing it to fire; and the throwing +stick, of hard wood, probably either of eucalyptus or casuarina; the +latter weapon was only two feet in length, and not near so large or long +as that used by the natives of Endeavour River. After the first day the +natives did not make their appearance; the smoke of their fires was +however observed over the south point of the island, about two miles off; +but notwithstanding the undisturbed manner in which our occupations +advanced, it was found necessary to keep an armed party always ready, for +there was no doubt that we were narrowly watched and the first unguarded +moment would have been taken advantage of by them for our annoyance, if +not to our loss. This precaution prevented my improving my last year's +survey of the main coast; and as there did not exist any good reason to +attach much importance to the sinuosities of the coast hereabout we did +not remain at this anchorage after our wooding and watering were +completed, from an anxiety to reach those parts which we had not yet +seen, and where we might expect a better chance of finding something of +greater interest. + +Mr. Cunningham was confined to the vessel during our stay by a serious +attack of jaundice brought on by the fatiguing examination of Liverpool +River. + +The weather during our stay was throughout fine. A breeze usually sprung +up at daylight from South-East; and by noon veered to and blew fresh from +East, sometimes reaching North-East, from which quarter it was generally +strongest; as sunset approached the wind usually died away, and before +dark it was quite calm and continued so until the morning. The +temperature was much lower than we expected to find it, the thermometer +ranging only between 75 and 84 degrees; so that during the day, while the +sea breeze lasted, the heat was not at all oppressive. + +August 18. + +We left South-West Bay on the 18th at daybreak; but from light airs made +so little progress that it was not until the following afternoon that we +passed between McCluer's and New Year's Islands; between the latter and +Oxley's Island we passed over two coral banks, separated from each other +by a deep channel. On the easternmost bank were nine fathoms, but on the +other we found overfalls between five and seven fathoms. A native's fire +that was burning on Oxley's Island served to fix the position of this +last bank. + +August 19. + +The next morning we were off Cape Croker and at noon were passing Port +Essington; the projecting heads of which, at the distance of four or five +leagues, have the appearance of being two small islands, for the land at +the back and on either side is too low to be seen. Between Port Essington +and Cape Van Diemen we steered so as to see several parts of the coast of +Melville Island in order to compare their relative meridional distances +with those of last year's survey. + +August 22. + +The latter projection, which is the western limit of the north coast, +came in sight on the evening of the 22nd when its longitude was found to +be 130 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds, which is 1 minute 2 seconds to the +westward of last year's observation; the mean therefore may be considered +as its true longitude, which is 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. + +At sunset we were eleven miles from the Cape, bearing South 67 1/2 +degrees West. + +August 23. + +And the next morning it was seen in the South-South-East. After rounding +it a course was steered down the western side of Bathurst Island. + +August 26. + +But it took us until the 26th before we passed Cape Fourcroy. + +August 27. + +On the following evening we made the land on the south side of Clarence +Strait in the vicinity of Vernon's Islands: this was the last land seen +by us on leaving the coast in May, 1818. + +Between Goulburn Island and this part we had a succession of light +baffling winds, with sultry, damp, and hazy weather, which proved very +unfavourable for our sick, the number of whom was increasing. Mr. Bedwell +was confined to his bed with a serious attack of dysentery, occasioned by +exposure to the sun whilst superintending the shore parties at Goulburn +Island; and the greater part of the crew were affected with ophthalmia, +probably occasioned by the excessive glare and reflection of the sun's +rays from the calm glassy surface of the sea. + +August 28. + +At daylight on the 28th we found ourselves near the land to the +south-west of Vernon's Islands, which also were in sight. To the south +was a deep opening trending to the south-east of a river-like appearance; +but, as it did not seem to be of sufficient importance to detain us, we +passed on to the westward. + +The land hereabouts is low and thickly wooded to the brink of the deep +red-coloured cliffs that form the projecting heads of the coast; the wood +near the sea had not the appearance of being of large growth; but the +abundance and the verdure of the trees gave this part a pleasing and +picturesque character. At the bottom of the opening was a remarkable +flat-topped hill under which the waters of the inlet appeared to flow in +a south-east direction. The entrance may possibly form a convenient port, +for there was no appearance of shoal water near it. The land which forms +its westernmost head appeared at first like an island, but was afterwards +presumed to be a projecting head, separating the opening from a deep +bight which was called Paterson Bay; at the bottom of the bay is another +opening or inlet that may have some communication with the first. The +western side of Paterson Bay is formed by very low land off which many +patches of dry rocks were seen to extend; beyond this the coast appeared +to be low and sandy. + +August 29. + +Light and adverse winds and calms, with a constant easterly current, +detained us in the vicinity of Paterson Bay until the following sunset; +when, in order to preserve the little progress made, we anchored near the +reefs on the western side of the bay. During the preceding day, sixteen +or twenty natives were noticed upon the sandy beach that fronts the red +cliffs on the eastern side of the bay, engaged in fishing, or perhaps in +watching our movements; and this evening the smokes of their fires were +observed among the trees near the same spot. + +August 30. + +The next day we made but little progress along the coast to the +south-west which is so low as not to be visible from the cutter's deck, +at a greater distance than six miles; this rendered the examination of it +very inconvenient and even dangerous, as the rocks and reefs which lined +the coast extended in some parts beyond that distance. + +The land appeared to be barren and arid, and were it not for a few bushes +or mangrove trees, scattered about the beach, it might be called a +complete desert. + +1819. September 1. + +Westerly winds and calms continued without intermission until the 1st of +September; during which the thermometer ranged between 79 and 93 degrees. +On this day a breeze from the North-East enabled us to make progress to +the southward; and after examining an indenture of the coast we anchored +at night off a point of land, which, from the circumstance of a very +large fire burning upon it, was called Point Blaze. The land still +continued low; but more wooded and less sandy than that we had seen +within the last two days. + +September 2. + +The next morning we resumed our course along the coast. To the south-west +a sandy hillock was observed, which proved to be on Captain Baudin's +Peron Island. This was the first opportunity that had occurred by which I +could compare my longitude with that of Captain Baudin; and as the Peak +of Peron Island is one of his fixed points, and is placed by him in 127 +degrees 34 minutes 36 seconds, I find that my chart is in this part 6 +minutes 24 seconds to the eastward. + +In order to set at rest the question of the insularity of this land we +passed within it, but not without difficulty, from the numerous shoals +that are scattered over the channel. A smoke was seen upon the smaller +island among the trees for a few minutes, but no people made their +appearance as we passed by. The natives of this part of the coast were +seen probably by Tasman; for in Mr. Dalrymple's Papua the following +paragraph is found: "In latitude 13 degrees 8 minutes and longitude 146 +degrees 18 minutes 6 seconds East (probably 129 1/2 degrees East of +Greenwich, and answering to this part) the people are bad and wicked, +shooting at the Dutch with arrows without provocation, when they were +coming on shore. It is here very populous." + +On arriving abreast of the peaked hill above-mentioned, a considerable +shoal, connected with the mainland, appeared to separate us from it; in +crossing it we had three fathoms, and as soon as we passed over it the +water deepened instantly to thirteen fathoms. We then bore up and steered +through the channel between the islands and the main, which was both +narrow and deep towards Channel Point; close to which we had sixteen +fathoms, and then hauled up round Peron's South Island. + +The land from Channel Point trends to the South-South-East, and forms a +tolerably deep bight of low, sandy land, terminated by Cliff Head, a high +rocky projection well furnished with trees. In this bay there is probably +an opening, but it is small and lined with mangroves. After passing +Channel Point the depth rapidly decreased, and as we crossed a shoal +which runs off from the south-east end of Peron's South Island and +extends deeply into the bay, we carried from two and three-quarters to +three and a half fathoms. On clearing it we steered South-South-West, and +after dark anchored in five fathoms, mud, Cliff Head bearing South 71 +degrees East (Magnetic.) + +The bay between the two projections received the name of Anson Bay, after +the noble family of that name. During the night we had a remarkable +copious fall of dew. + +September 3. + +The next day at eleven o'clock we were off Cape Ford: from this cape the +coast trends in a South 48 degrees West direction for five miles to a low +projecting point, near the extremity of which a clump of trees, +remarkable for their rounded form and singular appearance, was +conspicuous: hence it extends South 5 1/2 degrees West to a distant +point; the intervening coast being of moderate height and thickly wooded +to the brink of a range of dark red cliffs, two miles in length, rising +immediately from the beach; upon which eight natives and a child were +observed watching our movements. Our course was held parallel with the +shore at about three miles distance. At sunset we tacked off for the +night; and the south extreme at dark bore South by West 1/2 West. + +The sea hereabout abounds with fish of various sorts, upon which several +sharks were feeding most rapaciously. From midnight to daybreak the +weather was fine with scarcely a breath of wind; afterwards a light land +breeze set in; which at noon was succeeded by the usual sea breeze from +the west. + +September 4. + +At noon the next day our latitude was 13 degrees 33 minutes 41 seconds +South. At five o'clock we passed a point (Cape Dombey) off which there is +a reef of rocks of circular shape, and of small extent: to the southward +of it the coast forms a bay, lined with mangroves, in which there is a +small opening; but the breeze was then too fresh to allow of our +venturing into it to examine it more closely. At eight o'clock we +anchored off a projecting point which appeared to form the eastern head +of a deep opening: this projection, on account of a remarkable tree +standing above the bushes near to its extremity, was called Tree Point. + +At this anchorage the tide rose eighteen feet and ran nearly at the rate +of two miles per hour. + +September 5. + +The next morning at daybreak, when the land became visible, Captain +Baudin's Cape Dombey was recognised, bearing South 83 degrees East. +Between Capes Ford and Dombey the coast is higher than usual and thickly +wooded to the verge of the cliffs, which preserve the same deep red +colour with those more to the northward; under them a sandy beach +uninterruptedly lines the coast. The bottom, at from three to five miles +distance, is rather irregular, and varies in its depth between seven and +a half and ten fathoms. An opening in the land is laid down near Cape +Dombey in the French charts, before which are placed the Barthelemy +Islands, which certainly do not exist, and it was not until after the +haze of the day cleared up that two detached quadrilateral shaped hills +were seen over the low land; and as these at a distance would assume +exactly the figure and appearance of islands they must have been the +cause of the mistake; I have therefore called them (by altering the +nomenclature as little as possible) the Barthelemy Hills. + +At nine o'clock, having weighed at daylight, we reached within three +miles of Tree Point; when the ebb tide commenced and obliged our +anchoring to wait the turn of tide, in order to examine an opening that +trended deeply in to the southward. Accordingly when the flood made we +got under weigh, and entered the opening without encountering any +difficulties or being impeded by shoals. The deepest channel is about +two-thirds over on the eastern side, in which we sounded on a muddy +bottom in between nine and five fathoms; after having passed the +narrowest part we hauled over to the western shore, in the hope of +finding anchorage out of the strength of the tide, but it was with great +difficulty, and not until darkness compelled us, that we let go the +anchor, upon what appeared to be a hard stony bottom, in five fathoms. + +The tide then turned to the ebb and commenced running out so rapidly that +we were under apprehensions of the vessel being left dry. + +September 6 to 7. + +But at low water which took place at 1 hour 20 minutes a.m., although the +tide had fallen twenty-two feet, it left nine feet, which depth was just +sufficient to float the vessel. Upon stirring up the bottom with an oar, +it was found to be of stiff clay, plentifully sprinkled with small +iron-stone gravel; it proved however to be of much better quality than +had been suspected, and the anchorage was retained during our stay. + +As the bottom of this port had a river-like appearance, Mr. Roe prepared +to examine it, and set out at daylight accompanied by Mr. Cunningham: +they did not return until the following day. + +From his report it appears that the shores are overrun with mangroves +(rhizophoreae) and that the whole of the back lands are inundated at high +water, which accounts for the very strong tides we experienced. The +bottom of the port, which at Mr. Roe's desire was named in compliment to +Vice Admiral Sir Richard G. Keats, G.C.B., is divided into two saltwater +arms, extending towards the foot of a range of thickly-wooded hills, +which were seen from the anchorage over the low mangrove shore, and +which, from their description, are probably connected with the Barthelemy +Hills. Their summit was named Mount Goodwin. + +Our party put ashore at the only accessible landing place they found and +walked a mile inland. The country was extremely low and sterile, and the +soil composed of a tenacious clay in which small iron-stone gravel is +thickly mixed; it appeared to be of the same nature as the bottom on +which we were anchored; and to have been lately covered with grass, +recently burnt; and here and there, among other plants, Mr. Cunningham +found a stunted eucalyptus (eudesmia?) about six feet high. + +The usual traces of natives were noticed; especially in one part where +the mark of a foot had been impressed since the last high water. Large +fires were burning three or four miles off but no human beings were seen. +As our gentlemen proceeded up the river a large flight of bats flew over +the boat. Very few birds were observed but a cry like that of the Ardea +antigone was heard; Mr. Roe killed a small snake about two feet long. + +Upon this excursion no fresh water was found except a few small +drainings; but in this we were not disappointed for the character of the +country did not favour the idea or inspire us with any hopes of finding a +stream of sufficient consequence to be rendered useful for our purpose. +During the absence of the boat several necessary things were done on +board the ship which it was not possible to effect under weigh. On +opening some of the dry casks their contents were found to have suffered +much from weevil and rats: the latter had also made great havoc on our +spare sails; and, what was of greater importance and made me very anxious +for the consequences, they had gnawed holes in almost every water-cask +that remained full; so that we were not certain for a moment of our stock +of that article, of which we had no chance of procuring a supply on this +dreary coast. + +September 8. + +The following morning we weighed and stood out of Port Keats. On +attempting to steer close round Cape Hay we were obliged to desist and to +pass round a reef that extended from it in a North 1/2 West direction to +the distance of four leagues. + +At sunset no land was in sight. + +September 9. + +But at eight o'clock the next morning (9th) the north end of the above +reef bore East-South-East and the land about Cape Hay South-South-East. +The Barthelemy Hills were also seen from the masthead, and reported as +islands; this mistake of ours therefore tends still more to excuse the +error of the French charts. + +During the day we had light winds and the coast was but indistinctly +seen. The sea was covered with a brown scum which Captain Cook's sailors +called sea saw-dust, from its resemblance to that substance.* Very few +fish were noticed, but they were generally more numerous nearer to the +shore. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 248. Peron Voyage de Decouvertes +aux Terres Australes volume 2 chapter 31.) + +September 10. + +At midnight the land was seen from North-East to South-East and at +daylight it was visible between Point Pearce, bearing South-South-East, +and a point five or six miles south of Cape Hay which bore North-East by +East. The coast is sandy; behind it there appeared a good deal of small +stunted timber, and beyond this the range of Mount Goodwin was visible. +Round Point Pearce the land trends in a South 59 1/2 degrees East +direction and forms a very deep indenture: on approaching this point we +observed an extensive dry reef and breakers projecting from it to a +considerable distance. No land was seen to the southward of south-east, +but the hazy state of the weather prevented our seeing far, especially +land which is so low as to be scarcely distinguishable beyond the +distance of three or four leagues. As we approached Point Pearce the +soundings were very irregular and generally upon a rocky bottom. We +passed many ripplings occasioned by the tide setting round the point and +meeting the other tide from the southward. As these eddies were driving +us towards the shore we steered off south-west. At six o'clock p.m. Point +Pearce bore North 65 degrees East eleven miles, and in a line with the +hills about Mount Goodwin. Between this time and noon the soundings were +between nine and thirty-two fathoms, upon a rocky bottom. + +At sunset we were in fourteen fathoms, and during the night continued +sounding on a rocky bottom between ten and fourteen fathoms. + +September 11. + +At daylight of the 11th no land was in sight, we therefore stood to the +southward to make it but were obliged to tack off without seeing any, as +we shoaled rather suddenly to five fathoms. We then stood to the +north-east, close to a fresh land wind from the East-South-East, which +brought with it a very unpleasant warmth. As we approached Point Pearce, +the land of which, at nine o'clock, came in sight, the water deepened to +fifteen and eighteen fathoms. At half-past ten o'clock we were within +three miles of the point; when the wind died away, and from the ebbing +tide we very soon lost what we had gained during the morning; for there +was no anchoring ground fit to trust our only remaining anchor upon. At +noon we were about ten miles south-west from Point Pearce. The wind then +springing up from the south, sail was set, but the tide being adverse, +very little better than a north-east course was made good. Soon after +sunset, being three or four miles to the South-South-West of Point +Pearce, we tacked to the southward with the intention of steering on to +make what progress we could during the night. + +The attempt was hazardous, as we were strangers to the part; but if some +little risk was not run we had no chance of penetrating. From fifteen +fathoms we deepened to twenty-one, but as quickly shoaled again to +fifteen, and then suddenly to seven fathoms, hard sand. + +The cutter was then put about and we steered off North-West for six miles +and passed through several ripplings, occasioned by the tide flowing with +rapidity over a rocky and irregular bottom. After running the above +distance we again hauled to the wind, but had hardly trimmed sails before +we again suddenly shoaled from sixteen to seven fathoms. This was too +dangerous to persist in, and I gave up the attempt of venturing forward +during the night. + +September 12. + +The next morning the land was visible about Point Pearce, bearing +North-North-East. + +The colour of the water here is of a dirty yellow; it was imagined at +first to be caused by the tide stirring up the mud; but on examination we +found that it arose entirely from the reflection of the bottom, which is +a brown and yellow speckled sand. Although this change of the bottom was +favourable to the importance of the opening before us, yet it rendered +our difficulties greater, and increased the dangers, from its offering +less secure anchorage, and being so much more studded with shoals, than +the even muddy bottom that we had just left. + +At daylight the breeze was strong from East-South-East: at seven o'clock, +having fetched in with the land on the north side, we tacked and stood +across to the opposite shore. The land in the bight was visible in +patches as far as south-east, and the loom of it as far as south-west: +three smokes, one bearing south, another South-South-West, and another +south-west, proved the contiguity of the main; which is so low that when +we were very near it was scarcely distinguishable on account of the haze +and smoke with which it was enveloped. At 10 hours 40 minutes we were +about a mile and a half from a reef which was dry for more than a mile in +extent, and nearer to us was a patch of breakers: in standing towards +these shoals our soundings had been regular between nine and ten fathoms; +but at this time they unexpectedly shoaled at one cast, from eight to +three fathoms: the course was altered in time to prevent the cutter's +striking. We were now obliged to steer off, and after running six miles +to the North-West by West we steered west to observe the latitude which +was found to be 14 degrees 39 minutes 34 seconds South. The land was now +visible as far as South-West by West; five minutes after noon the +soundings decreased from ten to four and three-quarters fathoms; and +within fifty yards of us the water was rippling upon the edge of a shoal +which extends to the north-west and is probably dry at low water; we were +then obliged to steer to the north-west along the edge of this bank. At +about four miles further on we were again upon the bank in four fathoms, +and once more fortunately escaped getting on shore; an accident which +must have been fatal. To avoid this we hauled up north-east and soon got +into clear water; but fearing to encounter more of these overfalls we +steered north-east for three miles, five miles North-North-West, and one +and a quarter north-west, upon which courses our soundings were between +twelve and fifteen fathoms; the bottom being generally hard sand mixed +with coral and stones and often with rocks. We then steered west for four +miles, and supposing we had cleared the shoal, hauled in South-South-West +until dark; by which time we had run seven miles. + +Although the evening was clear the horizon over the land was so covered +with the smoke of the natives' fires that it could not be discovered, nor +any anchorage found: we therefore hauled off for the night and from our +vicinity to this dangerous shoal passed it very anxiously, but happily +without any unpleasant occurrence. + +I now gave up all idea of examining the opening round Point Pearce which +appeared of so interesting a character. The danger of remaining under +weigh (for our only anchor could not be trusted with safety on so bad a +bottom) was too great to run any longer risk, and we left the place with +a much stronger impression of its value and importance than we +entertained after the examination of an opening that was discovered by us +a few days afterwards. + +September 13. + +At daylight the land about Point Pearce (a sugarloaf hill on the Goodwin +Range) bore nearly due east. At eight a.m., having stood to the +South-South-West for thirteen miles, the water changed colour; the depth +however still continued to be regular in twelve fathoms and we steered +on; soon afterwards it shoaled to seven and five fathoms, upon which the +helm was put up; but before the vessel's head was got round we were in +three fathoms with the swell of the sea breaking so heavily around us +that our escape for the fourth time on this shoal was quite providential. +After getting into clear water we ran along the edge of the coloured +water, sounding in fourteen fathoms hard sand, mixed with shells and +stones; at noon we hauled round its north-west extremity and steered for +the land, which was soon afterwards visible from south to south-west, the +latter bearing being that of a remarkable hill, of quadrilateral shape, +answering in position to Captain Baudin's Lacrosse Island. At two o'clock +our soundings, for the first time since leaving Port Keats, were on a +muddy bottom; at sunset we were within six miles of a small rocky island +of half a mile in extent, surrounded by an extensive reef, which was +partially dry; the land between South-East and West by South appeared to +be a very low sandy coast, and the back lands to the south-east are +wooded and level. Nearer to Lacrosse Island the coast is not only more +irregular in its outline but of a more mountainous character: on each +side of the nearest part of the coast, which was eight miles off and bore +South, the shores fall back and form two bays; the land was however so +enveloped by the smoke of the natives' fires that the greater part was +very indistinctly seen and therefore very imperfectly described. After +dark a light breeze sprang up from the South-West, and we stood off +shore; but not being able to find an anchorage we continued under weigh +during the night. + +September 14. + +The next morning the land was not in sight: as we stood towards the shore +it was soon afterwards discerned, and at noon we were very near to our +last night's position but were prevented from steering towards Lacrosse +Island by a considerable shoal which extended to the North-West and +crossed our course: we anchored near it at sunset in ten fathoms. + +The land this day was more visible towards the South-East and observed to +join the low land at the back of the reefs that we passed on the 12th. + +A remarkable echo was heard in the evening: whilst the cook was chopping +his wood every blow was echoed round the bight, although we were eight +miles from the shore. After leaving Port Keats we met with large +quantities of a very beautiful species of medusa, it appeared to be the +Medusa panopyra, figured in Peron's Atlas, (Plate 31 figure 2). It is +from this animal that the French have named their Banc des Meduses. No +turtle or snakes had for some time been seen and very few sharks; but +other fish were numerous. + +September 15. + +Very little progress was made the next day; several attempts were made to +stand toward Lacrosse Island; but we were obliged to give it up as the +bank still crossed our course. In the evening we again anchored near the +edge of the bank and during the night the breeze blew fresh but the +anchor held well. + +September 16. + +At daylight another ineffectual attempt was made to cross the bank. At +two o'clock we passed several detached banks on which were seven and +eight fathoms; and soon afterwards rounded the north-west end of the +large bank, at a quarter of a mile distance in four fathoms; after which +the water deepened to twelve and thirteen fathoms but still the bottom +was of hard sand. From the colour of the sea it appeared that we were in +a deep channel, extending towards Lacrosse Island: from light winds our +progress was so slow that sunset overtook us before we had formed any +plan for anchoring; our soundings were between twenty-two and eighteen +fathoms hard sandy bottom: the tide was ebbing. The idea of standing out +for anchorage after having toiled for the last three days against foul +winds and other obstacles was particularly revolting; and increasing +darkness found me quite at a loss what course to pursue; for Lacrosse +Island appeared so rocky that I despaired of finding anchorage near it: +having however two days before seen a white beach off its south-east end +(which subsequently proved to be composed of stones whitened by the +effect of the weather) we stood towards it as a last resource; and on our +way thither we passed over a muddy bottom upon which the anchor was +dropped in eight fathoms, at about two miles from the north-west end of +the island. This day as usual many medusae were seen; and also a snake, +three feet long; its back was black, the belly yellow, and the tail +striped black and white. + +September 17. + +In the morning we landed upon the island at a place which had the +appearance of containing fresh water; and after examining several +torrent-worn gullies for it without success we ascended a hill to look +round for some more probable place; but as the same arid appearance +seemed to pervade every part within our view we re-embarked, and shortly +landed upon a bluff point at the north-west end of the island; from which +a considerable reef of rocks projects into the sea. + +Whilst I was employed in taking a set of bearings from this station the +boat's crew amused themselves in wandering about the rocks in search of +shells; and upon our again embarking they informed me that they had seen +some natives on the beach of a sandy bay round the point; but that they +had retired without having been noticed. The information proved correct; +for on pulling round the point we espied four natives seated on the sand, +watching the progress of a fire they had just kindled; which was rapidly +spreading through and consuming the dry and parched up grass that grew +scantily upon the face of the island. As soon as we were observed three +of them got up and stood for some moments motionless with alarm; but upon +my calling to them and waving my hat the whole party, seizing their +spears, ran off, and in a few seconds disappeared in the hollow behind +the beach. On the sand were marks of turtles, which gave me hopes of +obtaining some for the ship's company who had not enjoyed a fresh meal, +excepting the flesh of three porpoises, since leaving Port Jackson. As +our object was to pull round the island we did not stop here; but at a +few minutes before noon, being near a projecting point a little further +on, we landed and observed the sun's supplementary altitude which made +the latitude 14 degrees 45 minutes 56 seconds South. We afterwards landed +further on in a small sandy bay where we found more turtle-tracks and the +remains of a nest that had been plundered by the natives; who, from the +recent impressions of their feet on the sand, had in the morning crossed +the beach. The sand was so heated that it was painful to stand upon +without constantly relieving our feet; and that the natives we had just +seen should sit and bask upon it in this state would have appeared +incredible to us had we not witnessed the fact. Upon leaving the bay, the +natives, whose number had increased to nine, were observed upon the hills +that overhang the beach, watching our proceedings; and as we pulled away +they slowly moved toward the place we had just left. + +As soon as we arrived on board we got underweigh and steered round the +bluff point on the west side of the island; and at half past five o'clock +anchored at about half a mile from the shore of the bay on which we had +lately landed. From this station we had an opportunity of observing the +features of the coast: Lacrosse Island is situated in the entrance of a +deep opening trending to the South-South-West towards some steep rugged +hills. The character of the country is here entirely changed: irregular +ranges of detached rocky hills of sandstone formation, very slightly +clothed with small shrubs and rising abruptly from extensive plains of +low level land seem to have superseded the low wooded coast that almost +uninterruptedly prevails between this and Cape Wessel; a distance of more +than six hundred miles. The present change, although more dreary and less +inviting, was hailed by us with pleasure; for the broken appearance of +the hills inspired us with the hope of finding some fresh stream from +which we might complete our water, and thereby prevent our premeditated +visit to Timor, whither it would soon be time to resort. + +The fires which had been lighted in the course of the day by the natives +had rapidly spread over the summit of the hills, and at night the whole +island was illuminated and presented a most grand and imposing +appearance. After dusk Mr. Roe went with a party on shore in order to +take turtle and at eight o'clock returned with one of the hawk's-bill +species (Testudo imbricata?) the meat of which weighed seventy-one +pounds; about fifty eggs were also procured. + +September 18. + +The boat was sent again at four o'clock in the morning, as it was then +high water, but returned at daylight without success. + +Lacrosse Island, so named by Commodore Baudin, is about nine miles in +circumference and about six hundred feet high; it is of a rugged +character and intersected by numerous deep ravines and gullies; which, in +the wet season, doubtless contain water. + +The seaward or northern face of the island is formed of a fine-grained +sandstone, dipping in strata, with a slight inclination to the +South-East: large blocks of the same stone were also found scattered over +the hills. The soil with which it is but slightly covered is little +better than a thin layer of sandy earth; but notwithstanding its sterile +quality it produces a variety of small plants, among which a shrubby +acacia* was predominant and sufficiently abundant to tint the sides of +the hills where it grew with the sea-green colour of its foliage. At last +quarter ebb we got underweigh and proceeded to examine the opening by +steering South-South-West towards the deepest part; at twenty-three miles +from Lacrosse Island the gulf is divided by Adolphus Island into two +arms; one of which trended to the South-South-East and the other to the +South-South-West.** + +(*Footnote. This plant is described in Mr. Cunningham's Journal as Acacia +leucophoea.) + +(**Footnote. For the farther description of Cambridge Gulf see the +Appendix A Part 4.) + +As the western arm appeared to be of most importance we entered it and, +with a strong flood tide, proceeded with great rapidity; as sunset +approached we began to look for an anchorage, but found much difficulty +on account of the strength of the tides, the great depth of water, and, +as I at first thought, the unfavourable quality of the bottom: at last +the anchor was dropped close to the south-west shore of Adolphus Island +in the entrance of another arm which appeared to trend to the south-east +under Mount Connexion. The noise made by the chain cable in running +through the hawse-hole put to flight a prodigious number of bats that +were roosting in the mangrove bushes; and which, flying over and about +the cutter's mast, quite darkened the air with their numbers. + +September 19. + +As I purposed remaining two days at this anchorage to examine the country +we landed the next morning under View Hill, a high steep point on the +south shore abreast of the anchorage; and, having climbed the summit by a +rugged and fatiguing ascent, our labour was amply repaid by a very +extensive view of the surrounding country and by obtaining bearings of +Lacrosse Island and Shakspeare Hill; which served to fix the position of +View Hill. + +The south end of Adolphus Island, of which I had a commanding view, is a +low, flat salt-swamp surrounded by mangrove bushes. To the south-eastward +of Shakspeare Hill but quite detached from it is a range of hills +extending in unconnected patches toward Mount Connexion. The principal +stream of the gulf, which is the west arm, runs under the base of View +Hill; three and a half miles farther on it opens into an extensive basin +at the bottom of which is some high land; here the basin is contracted in +its size, and trends to the westward round a mangrove point, where it was +lost to view. + +Mr. Cunningham had also made an excursion upon Adolphus Island; he had +walked over the salt-swamp towards the hills, which, from his +description, are precisely of the same character as View Hill; the rock +formation is principally of sandstone, blocks of which (the largest not +exceeding three feet in diameter) are profusely scattered over the sandy +soil and are sometimes found covered with a crust of quartz: but +notwithstanding the aridity and apparent barrenness of the soil, many +plants were recovering from the destructive effects of recent fires and +springing up in great luxuriance. In our ascent we passed through several +deep gullies which bore the marks of having once yielded abundance of +water but were now quite dried up. + +September 20. + +The next day Mr. Cunningham accompanied me on an excursion round Adolphus +Island, taking from the anchorage an easterly direction; and passing to +the north of the two mangrove islands. On the eastern side of Adolphus +Island we landed on one of two rocky islets, and took some bearings from +its summit. It is composed of loose blocks of decomposed sandstone. On +the summit we observed a large hawk's nest but it was deserted by its +constructor. The only plants that were found upon this rock were a +prickly capparis and a leafless ficus, the latter bearing clusters of +small, whitish, globular fruit: these plants, with a small hibiscus, were +the chief productions of the rock; and have probably been produced from +seeds deposited there by birds. + +On leaving these rocks I hoped to have reached in time some part of the +north-east shore of Adolphus Island where I could observe the sun's +meridional altitude on the sea horizon; but we were detained in the arm +by strong ripplings and a fresh sea-breeze until it was too late. Upon +approaching the northernmost point of the island, which is low and +covered with mangroves, we were obliged to pull round a bank that extends +for some distance off it: as soon as this was effected the flood-tide +commenced; we then landed under Adolphus Island just within the narrow +entrance of the western arm; and whilst the people dined I was engaged in +taking bearings and Mr. Cunningham ranged about in search of plants. +Everything wore the same arid appearance as those parts before visited; +but the stems of some trees, of a larger growth than any we had yet seen +on the hills, were found washed up on the beach. At five p.m. we returned +on board; having made the circuit of Adolphus Island, a distance of +twenty-five miles; without seeing the least vestige of man or animal or +any appearance of fresh water. + +September 22. + +The wind and tide were unfavourable the next day for quitting our +anchorage until the afternoon: in the morning Mr. Roe sounded and +examined the south arm; and as he found the passage to be quite clear we +weighed at slack water with the intention of proceeding through it and +anchoring in the basin; but the strength of the wind obliged us to anchor +under View Hill and detained us the whole of the following day which was +unsuccessfully spent in examining the gullies in search of fresh water: a +hole was dug in one of the most favourable spots we could find; and at +the depth of three or four feet the earth gradually became so moist as to +flatter us with the hope that our labours would be rewarded by success: +at three feet deeper water began to ooze through; but, upon tasting it, +it turned out to be quite salt. Another place higher up was tried with +the same result upon which further search was abandoned as useless. + +In the evening we ascended a hill near the anchorage; whence a favourable +view was obtained for the construction of my chart. The space behind the +beach to the foot of the hill is occupied by a level plain that has +evidently been formed by the deposition of alluvial soil; over which, in +many places, the last night's high tide had passed; but those parts which +it had not reached were covered with a thin layer of salt which at a +distance exactly resembled hoar-frost. Upon it was observed the track of +a dog that had evidently been running towards the saltwater pits to +quench its thirst; and this, I fear, is only a proof of the total absence +of fresh water, which, indeed, the desolate and burnt up appearance of +everything around was sufficient of itself to bespeak. The country at the +bottom of the gulf appeared to be of a rugged and mountainous character: +the hills were observed in detached ranges to rise abruptly from a low +level plain extending to the shore, the edge of which was lined as far as +we could see by a belt of mangrove bushes. These plains were covered with +salt incrustations over which were scattered the stems and branches of +trees that had evidently been washed down from the hills and deposited +there by inundations to which this country appears to be frequently +subject. The trees appeared to be of so much larger size than any we have +seen growing near the coast that we reasonably concluded the interior to +be of a much more productive character than the country in the vicinity +of the sea. Our means were however too confined to satisfy ourselves of +this interesting fact. + +September 23. + +The following morning, the weather being more favourable, we left the bay +and, with the remainder of the flood tide, beat through the narrows; in +which, at one cast, we had no bottom at forty-five fathoms. As soon as we +passed this strait we entered the basin and a little before high water +anchored in eight fathoms on its west side, where at noon, by a +meridional observation to the south, the latitude was found to be 15 +degrees 21 minutes 53 seconds South. After this we landed in the vicinity +of our station; but, finding the country as barren and dreary as before, +the evening was spent in sounding between the cutter and the western +shore. + +September 24. + +The next morning we reached the farther end of the basin and anchored +under a remarkable range of hills; which, from their appearance, were +called the Bastion Hills; the latitude of this station is 15 degrees 29 +minutes 38 seconds South. The gulf, which had now assumed the character +of a river, trended to the South-West, and at the distance of three or +four miles disappeared among some high land in that direction. + +In the evening (since we had lately seen no appearance of sharks) the +people were allowed to bathe; but they had no sooner finished, and +everyone on board, than an alligator swam past the vessel. The appearance +of this animal revived some hopes of our yet finding fresh water and also +that the gulf would terminate in a river; the breadth here is about a +mile and a half and the rise of the tide about twenty-one feet: the ebb +set at the rate of three knots per hour and the water was very muddy; but +at low tide, upon being tasted, it still retained its saltness. + +September 25. + +At daylight the next morning we were again under weigh; but, the wind +being directly adverse, were obliged to make several tacks: as we +proceeded the opening was found to get more contracted and to wind +through a very narrow strait between high precipitous hills; and as, on +approaching it, the passage appeared too narrow to be attempted with +safety, we anchored at about two miles from it near the low west bank; +and after breakfast Mr. Cunningham accompanied me in the whale-boat to +continue its further exploration. + +The wind was blowing a fresh gale from the South-West directly out of the +Gut and impeded us a good deal; but the tide was running with such +strength that we were not long before we passed through. This passage is +about two miles and a half long, bounded on either side by rocky barren +hills rising abruptly from the water. The channel is deep for our boat's +lead-line of twenty fathoms did not reach the bottom. At the south end of +the gut the land opened out into another basin which, like the former, is +surrounded by low land overrun with mangroves and studded with several +islets, occasionally covered by the tide. The course of the river still +trended to the south-west, in which direction we continued to pull but +found some difficulty from its being very shoal; for in the fair way +across there was not more water than eighteen feet at three-quarters' +flood. At eleven o'clock, having crossed the basin, we landed on an islet +which, like the rest, had been covered by the last high tide. The river +had now contracted to the width of one hundred to one hundred and fifty +yards and trended by a winding course to the south and south-east, but +the water was still as salt as ever although we were at least sixty miles +from the sea. As there was now no probability of our extending the +examination of this river for any useful purpose we stopped at high water +and landed on the bank to examine the country whilst the people dined. We +were about two or three miles from the base of a most remarkable +quadrangular-shaped mass of hills rising abruptly from an extensive flat +plain covered with salt: the sides sloped down with a very steep descent +to the base and the top of the range was circumvented with cliffs which, +protruding at intervals, so perfectly resembled the bastions and ramparts +of a formidable fortress that it wanted only the display of a standard to +render the illusion complete. It was named Mount Cockburn in compliment +to Vice-Admiral Sir George Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lord +Commissioners of the Admiralty. The accompanying drawing of this +remarkable range of hills was taken from the west point of the south +entrance of the gut. + +All around us bore the most desolate appearance. The grass, which was +quite dry, wanted but a spark and a breeze to set the whole country in +flames. The soil on which it grows, which is about two feet above the +high watermark, is a stiff clay; covered with a slight incrustation of +salt on which the tracks of native dogs were noticed; several smokes were +observed at a distance but no natives were seen. The tide had now began +to ebb; and as there was no inducement to detain us for the next day to +examine it farther we set off on our return; and on our way landed for +bearings on the small islet in the middle of the Inner Basin. We also +went on shore in two places on the west bank within the Gut; at the first +we found the marks of an encampment of a tribe of natives: eight or nine +spots of circular form were cleared away amongst the grass and in the +centre of each were the ashes of a small fire, close to which we noticed +some large flattened stones with a smaller one lying upon them, which the +natives probably use for the purpose of bruising or grinding the seeds of +plants and breaking shellfish. The impressions of dogs' feet were +observed about the fireplaces, as well as the recent tracks of kangaroos. +The only animal that we saw during our excursion was a small +kangaroo-rat; it was skipping about the rocks near the sea. A ravine, of +appearance the most favourable for our search for water, was selected +from a great many as most likely to afford it; and we landed for that +purpose; but we met with our usual bad success; torrents had once poured +down it, the effects of which alone were left. Recent traces of kangaroos +were again seen here: these animals can require but little drink unless +the dew that is nightly deposited is sufficient for the purpose of +quenching their thirst, for we did not see a drop of fresh water in any +part we landed at. + +We reached the vessel a short time before sunset and terminated the +examination of this gulf, which at one time bore so flattering an +appearance as to leave little doubt of our being able to complete our +water, and that even with facility. I felt so much disappointed that two +or three small openings, which probably served but to drain the vast +plains of inundated country that environ the hills on the shores of this +gulf, were passed by unheeded; among which was the extensive branch that +trended to the south-east under Mount Connexion; this opening appeared to +possess a similar character with that we had just been employed in +exploring. + +September 25 to 26. + +On the 26th we got under weigh to return; but, having to work against a +contrary breeze, made no farther progress than the anchorage occupied on +the 23rd. The smokes of many fires were seen during the day; but in this +country where everything is so parched and dry a fire will lie dormant a +considerable time, and as the breeze springs up the flames will kindle +and run along in the direction of the wind for many miles. + +September 27. + +The next day at half-past twelve o'clock when the ebb tide began to make, +the wind freshened up from South-East and soon carried us into the +narrows: it then veered round to the eastward, and after half an hour's +calm a strong sea-breeze set in against us; but the tide being in our +favour we made quick progress until half an hour before the time of low +water, when we anchored under the north-west end of Adolphus Island. + +I have this day to record the death of one of the crew, William Nicholls, +who, for some time past, and particularly during the last three days, had +been suffering from a dropsical complaint; his death was occasioned by +suffocation, having very imprudently laid down with his head to leeward +while we were under sail: this poor fellow had been for nearly three +months on our sick list; he was a native of Norfolk Island, and, when in +health, had been one of my most useful and attentive men. + +September 28. + +He was interred the next morning on shore; in memorial whereof the +north-west point of the island was named after him. Soon after noon the +ebb tide made, and we worked out against a strong northerly breeze, which +gave us a good opportunity of ascertaining the soundings and breadth of +the channel. The tide however did not serve to carry us out of the gulf, +and at low water we dropped the anchor near a bank on the western side in +six fathoms, sandy bottom, out of the influence of the tide; which in the +mid-channel was observed to run with great strength. + +After sunset the clouds began to collect in the South-East and threatened +the approach of bad weather; but in our situation the anchor, although we +had but one, was our best security. + +September 29. + +At two o'clock in the morning heavy clouds rose in the East-South-East +and the wind freshened from that direction; it however soon after veered +back to South-East and enabled us to weigh. The weather was cloudy and +dark, but as the plan of the gulf had been already roughly formed, and +our soundings laid down, I was sufficiently aware of the course we had to +steer. The only event to be dreaded was that, in getting under weigh, the +cutter might cast with her head inshore, when we should certainly have +been thrown upon the bank; our fears however upon this point were happily +groundless, and our course being unimpeded, we made quick way towards +Lacrosse Island, which was passed at daylight. + +Having now cleared this extraordinary inlet which was named Cambridge +Gulf in honour of His Royal Highness the Viceroy of Hanover, we bore up +along shore to the westward, sufficiently near to it to have perceived +any opening that might exist, and to make such remarks as were necessary +for its delineation. At sunset we were off Cape St. Lambert of the French +and their Mount Casuarina was also seen. M. de Freycinet's description of +the hill is very correct, but at the distance which we were it was only +visible when it bore between South and West-South-West; for the land in +that bearing intervened and concealed it. Large fires were burning three +or four miles inland. + +September 30. + +At sunset we hauled off shore for the night; and the next morning saw +Mount Casuarina again bearing south; its latitude was found to be 14 +degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and its longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes +50 seconds East of Greenwich, which is 3 minutes 10 seconds to the +westward of the situation that the French have assigned to it. + +Hence the shore takes a north-westerly trend. At noon we were two miles +and a half from Cape Rulhieres when our latitude was 13 degrees 51 +minutes 58 seconds; at seven miles in a North 37 degrees West direction +from the cape, which is a stony point, is Captain Baudin's Lesueur +Island, a low flat sandy island. We passed between it and the main, and +had soundings with fifteen fathoms. + +In passing a projection of land which appeared to be an island and off +which is a considerable reef, the bottom shoaled to eight fathoms but as +quickly deepened again to no bottom with fifteen fathoms. This probable +island may perhaps be the second Lesueur Island, which is laid down upon +the French chart; but I have doubts of it; for I do not think it could be +distinguished as an island at the distance Captain Baudin was from the +shore. The land now extended towards a point which was called Cape +Londonderry, whence it took a westerly direction. On arriving up with the +reef which extends off Cape Londonderry we hauled off to the northward +and passed the ensuing night under easy sail, during which our soundings +were between forty and forty-six fathoms. A very large natives' fire was +burning about two or three miles inland, but the Indians did not show +themselves. Last night our people caught a porpoise, which helped to +diminish the bad effect of salt provisions. + +We were now very weak-handed; three men, besides Mr. Bedwell who was +still an invalid, being ill, considerably reduced our strength; insomuch +that being underweigh night and day, with only one spare man on the watch +to relieve the masthead look-out, the lead, and the helm, there was great +reason to fear the fatigue would very much increase the number of +complaints. Since leaving Port Jackson we had never been free from +sickness, but it was confined principally to two or three individuals who +were not able to endure the very great heat. Upon the whole we thought +ourselves very fortunate that, considering the frequency of illness on +board and the violence of the diseases by which some of our people had +been attacked, particularly in the cases of Mr. Bedwell and Mr. +Cunningham, we had only lost one man; and this from a complaint which +even medical assistance might not, perhaps, have cured; and by an +accident which could not have been prevented, for our people were at the +moment so busily employed in working the vessel through a dangerous +navigation that the unfortunate man's situation was not known until the +vital spark was nearly extinct, and too far gone for any human means to +save his life. The thermometer now ranged between 80 and 87 degrees in +the shade; and the fast approach of the sun (the declination of which was +3 degrees South) was daily felt. + + + +CHAPTER 8. +Examination of the coast between Cape Londonderry and Cape Voltaire, +containing the surveys of Sir Graham Moore's Islands, Eclipse Islands, +Vansittart Bay, Admiralty Gulf, and Port Warrender. +Encounter with the natives of Vansittart Bay. +Leave the coast at Cassini Island for Coepang. +Obliged to bear up for Savu. +Anchor at Zeeba Bay, and interview with the rajah. +Some account of the inhabitants. +Disappointed in not finding water. +Leave Zeeba Bay, and beat back against the monsoon to Coepang. +Complete wood and water, and procure refreshments. +Return to Port Jackson. +Pass the latitude assigned to the Tryal Rocks. +Arrival in Sydney Cove. + +1819. October 1. + +We had now reached a part of the coast which, excepting a few of the +islands that front it, the French expedition did not see: we should +therefore have commenced its examination with more pleasure had we been +in a state better fitted for the purpose; for we were rapidly consuming +our stock of water without any prospect of finding a supply at this +season; and this, added to the loss of our anchors, considerably lessened +the satisfaction we should otherwise have felt in viewing the prospect +before us. + +After a calm and sultry morning a breeze from the North-East carried us +towards the land, the situation of which was pointed out by the smoke of +natives' fires. A little before three o'clock it was seen from the deck +and as we stood towards it we narrowly escaped striking on a part of the +shoal that extends off Cape Londonderry: our course was then directed +towards some broken land in the South-West which proved to be a group of +islands with a considerable sinuosity in the coast behind them; the +eastern head of the bay was called Cape Talbot after the then Lord +Lieutenant of Ireland. Between this and Cape Londonderry the coast is +very low and defended by an extensive reef, which in many parts was dry. + +During the night we stood off shore. + +October 2. + +And at daylight were eight miles from the islands. At nine o'clock, being +calm, we anchored to the north of the group, which was named Sir Graham +Moore's, in compliment to the gallant admiral then holding a seat at the +Admiralty Board. The principal island is more elevated than the rest and +has a flat tabular summit: it bore from the anchorage South 19 degrees +East three miles and a half. + +The sea-breeze set in from North-West with the change of tide; as soon as +the sun's meridional altitude was observed we got under sail and steered +to the West-South-West; but were soon after obliged to alter the course +to avoid a shoal on which the sea was breaking within fifty yards of us. +After passing this danger we found ourselves in a deep channel the +seaward limit of which was formed by an extensive reef connected with +Jones' Island. At sunset we anchored within one mile and a half of the +shore in five fathoms and a half, soft sandy mud, off the entrance of a +considerable bight or bay; which appeared to be so nearly blocked up by a +reef of dry rocks that it was doubtful whether we should be able to +penetrate without going round the Eclipse Islands; these islands were so +named in consequence of an eclipse of the moon that took place in the +evening; and the flat-topped mount which is conspicuous on the principal +island of the group was named Eclipse Hill. + +October 3. + +The next morning was passed in examining the reefs to the southward; we +first landed on the south-east end of Long Island, where a set of +bearings and a tolerable view up the bay were obtained. Long Island is of +a rugged character and formed principally of large water-worn masses of +quartzose sandstone superincumbent upon a basis of the same rock. The +spaces between them were occupied by a variety of plants, the examination +of which fully employed Mr. Cunningham: natives' traces and fireplaces, +and the remains of a turtle-feast were observed; but there were no signs +of the islands having been very recently visited by the Indians: we +afterwards landed upon some dry rocks that lie in the mid-channel, and +whilst I was occupied in taking bearings the boat's crew fished, but with +little success on account of the rapidity of the tide. + +October 4. + +After this we found and examined a tolerably wide and deep channel on the +eastern side of the Middle Rocks; through which, as it appeared to be +free from danger, the cutter was worked the next morning, and afterwards +anchored near the western side of the bay; where the verdant appearance +of the grass and trees that clothed the sides of the hills induced me to +land for the purpose of searching for water; we were, however, +disappointed: large streams of water had evidently very lately poured +down the gullies; but there was not the least vestige of any remaining. + +On the beach of one of the sandy bays the traces of natives were more +numerous than usual; for we counted as many as forty small fireplaces +arranged in a straight line along the beach; near to each were lying the +stones on which the Indians had evidently been bruising seeds, +particularly of the fruit of a new species of sterculia, the husks of +which were strewed about: near the fireplaces were the remains of two +huts; one of them was thrown down, but the other was perfect enough to +give us an idea of its form and for us to recognise its resemblance to +some we had seen on the East coast. + +A curious implement was found on the shore, the use of which we could not +at all conjecture, unless it had belonged to the Malays; it was fifteen +feet long and five inches in diameter, and composed of three saplings +firmly and closely united and covered with grass secured to it by rope +twisted of strips of bark; it might have been a fender for the purpose of +hanging between the Malay proas when moored together, to prevent their +being injured by their sides coming in contact. + +The shores and hills were thickly scattered over with large masses of a +dark red-coloured sandstone covered with a crust of quartz; the latter +substance was not however found in a crystallized state. Everything bore +the most parched and arid appearance; the country was certainly seen by +us at the most disadvantageous season; but although the hills are thickly +wooded the dwarf and stunted habit of the trees is a proof, if we had +required it, of the shallow and unproductive quality of the soil. The +smoke of three or four large fires were noticed on the opposite side of +the bay, the flames of which blazed up as the seabreeze set in. Recent +and numerous tracks of the kangaroo were observed in all directions. Fish +were abundant, but none were caught. Before returning on board we visited +two other places in the bay to make further search for water, but with no +better success; and we began to despair of finding any upon the coast. + +October 5. + +We weighed the next day with the sea-breeze, and anchored in the +south-east corner of the bay: in the evening we landed on a projecting +point close to the anchorage and ascended its summit, which was so +thickly covered with climbing plants that it was called Vine Head. From +this station an extensive view was obtained of the bottom of the bay; and +as it was nearly low water the time was favourable for my purpose. Near +the anchorage was a small mangrove opening, the entrance of which was +blocked up by a dry mud bank. + +When we landed we found a piece of wood upon the beach with a nail-hole +in it: it had probably been part of a Malay proa; for a fleet of such +visitors, consisting of twenty-six vessels on the trepang fishery, was +seen in this neighbourhood by the French in 1801;* and, according to +their report, annually visit this part of the coast. + +(*Footnote. Freycinet Terres Australes page 24.) + +This day was spent in examining the shores of the bottom of the bay. We +first pulled up the arm to the eastward of Vine Head which trends in for +one mile, and then examined the bay on its western side, which was found +to be both shoal and rocky. We next rowed inside of Jar Island whose +peaked summit forms a very good mark for the channel between the Middle +and Long Rocks. In pulling towards the west side of the bay, at the back +of Jar Island, a native was perceived running along the rocky shore +towards the point we were steering for; round which, as we passed it +yesterday, there appeared to be a deep cave or inlet. As we pulled along +the shore we were amused in watching how nimbly the Indian leaped from +rock to rock: he was alone and unarmed. At one time we pulled close to +the shore and endeavoured to entice him to approach us, but he stood +looking at us from the summit of a rocky eminence close to the beach, +without attending to our invitations; and, upon our repeating them and +resting on our oars, he retreated towards the smoke of a fire that was +burning behind the mangroves on the south shore at the bottom of the +inlet into which we were pulling; on approaching it we found that the +native had already arrived and given the alarm to a family of Indians, +consisting of three men, two women, and four children, who had been +cooking their repast. + +As soon as our approach was discovered the women took their baskets and +moveables and hurried away with the children, whilst the men seized their +spears to protect their retreat; but as our object was not to alarm these +poor savages, we pulled over to the opposite shore, which was about sixty +yards across, and landed: Mr. Cunningham and I then ascended a steep hill +that rose immediately from the shore, the summit of which promised to +afford us a prospect of the surrounding land. The view however from this +eminence, although extensive, did not answer my expectation: a low +country of an arid and barren appearance extended to the southward; the +northern part of the land on which we were appeared to be that described +by the French as Bougainville Island, but it was now clearly and +distinctly ascertained to be a peninsula: our view to the north-west was +intercepted by higher hills than those we were upon. After taking all the +bearings that the confined prospect permitted, without having very +materially improved my knowledge of the surrounding country, I began to +think of returning to the boat, and on looking towards the natives +perceived that they had left the tree and were standing about fifty yards +farther back, attentively engaged in consultation and in watching our +movements: besides their spears they carried short pieces of wood like +throwing sticks, and one of them also held in his hand a shield. After +some deliberation they moved quickly forward towards the foot of the hill +on which we were, evidently with an intention of intercepting our return +to the boat, but when we began to descend the hill they stopped and +slowly retired to their former station; had they persevered they would +have easily cut off our retreat, and as we had forgotten the precaution +of arming ourselves the consequence might have been serious. This +movement of the natives made us suspicious of no very friendly intentions +on their part and hurried our return to the boat; but, the descent being +steep and strewed with rocks which were concealed by grass higher than +our middles, we did not reach the bottom of the hill without several +bruises. + +Upon re-embarking we perceived that the natives had again ascended the +tree to watch our movements; but when they saw the boat pulling across +the stream towards them they leaped down and retired among the trees. +After repeated calls which had not the effect of inducing them to +approach, we rowed out of the cove, and, on passing a projecting point +that was less wooded than other parts, Mr. Cunningham expressed a wish to +collect some specimens of the plants that were growing upon it. Whilst +meditating upon the propriety of landing so near to the natives, whose +conduct we had already some reason to suspect, a dog which we had before +seen with them came from behind a bush near the water's edge and walked +up to its knees in the water towards us; the boat was backed in and we +endeavoured to entice it within our reach by throwing some food; but the +animal, upon discovering that we were strangers, became shy, and after +smelling about ran back towards a bush about fifty yards off; from which +the natives, who had all the time been concealed behind it, rushed out +and with loud shouts ran towards us: upon reaching the water's edge they +threw several stones, one of which nearly struck the boat; they then +prepared their spears, when it was found necessary to deter them by +firing a musket over their heads; the noise of which had the desired +effect; for, struck with a sudden panic at the report which echoed +through the trees, they turned and fled; and as they scampered off two +more balls were fired over them, which, if possible, increased the +rapidity of their flight until the trees concealed them from our view; +after this we neither heard nor saw anything more of them. + +This circumstance gave the name of Encounter Cove to the inlet. On our +return we called at Jar Island and walked over it, but with difficulty, +on account of the confused heaps of rugged stones that were strewed over +its rocky surface. The spinifex that grew in the interstices of the rocks +was also no inconsiderable hindrance to our movements. Behind the beach +was a large basin full of salt water that, in the wet season, would +doubtless furnish fresh, since it appeared to have been formed by the +runs from the rocks, the upper surfaces of which were hollowed out by the +effect of the rain: these holes or cisterns are probably full of water in +the wet season. + +On the beach we found a broken earthen pot which decidedly proved the +fact of the Malays visiting this part of the coast and explained the +mischievous disposition of the natives. Before we returned to the cutter +we landed on some rocks in the bay, at the back of Jar Island, to fish, +but having very little success we did not delay, and by sunset reached +the vessel. + +October 7. + +On the 7th we left the anchorage under Vine Head, and by the aid of a +breeze from the North-West worked out of the western entrance of the bay, +which appeared to be quite free from danger of every sort. + +At sunset we anchored in the outer part of the entrance in nine fathoms +and a half, muddy bottom. On the west side of the peninsula we passed +three bays, from one to two miles deep and one mile broad; in each of +these inlets there appeared to be good anchorage. + +The bay was named Vansittart after the late Chancellor of the Exchequer. + +October 8. + +At daylight (8th) we weighed and stood out to the North-West between +Troughton Island and Cape Bougainville. Round the latter projection the +land trends so deeply in to the southward that it was lost to view; but +two flat-topped islands were seen in the South-South-West, which +afterwards proved to be some of Captain Baudin's Institute Isles; we were +now obliged to steer down the western side of the cape, for our further +progress to the westward was stopped by a considerable reef extending +north and south parallel with the land of Cape Bougainville. During the +afternoon we had the wind and tide against us so that we made no +progress. Some bights in the coast were approached with the intention of +anchoring in them but the water was so deep and the ground so +unfavourable for it that the stream anchor was eventually dropped in the +offing in twenty-two fathoms: where during the night the tide set with +unusual velocity and ran at the rate of one knot and three-quarters per +hour. + +October 9. + +In the morning a view from the masthead enabled me to see a confused mass +of rocks and islets in the South-West. At eight o'clock the flood tide +commenced and the anchor being weighed, we steered towards the bottom of +the gulf; on our way to which the positions of several small rocks and +islets, which form a part of this archipelago, were fixed. At noon our +latitude was 14 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, when the hill, which we +ascended over Encounter Cove in Vansittart Bay, was seen bearing South 88 +1/2 degrees East. The land to the southward was still far distant but +with a fresh sea breeze we made rapid progress towards it and by four +o'clock entered an extensive port at the bottom of the gulf and anchored +in a bay on its western shore, land-locked, in four fathoms and +three-quarters, mud. In finding this anchorage we considered ourselves +fortunate for the freshness of the breeze in so dangerous a situation +made me feel uneasy for our only anchor, which we must have dropped at +night, however exposed our situation might have been: by midnight the +breeze fell and we had a dead calm. + +October 10. + +The next day we landed on the west head of the bay, Crystal Head, where +the meridional altitude of the sun was observed and sights for the +chronometers taken; in the evening we ascended its summit and by a +bearing of the land of Cape Bougainville the survey was connected with +Vansittart Bay. + +In the morning a young kangaroo was started by Mr. Cunningham but made +its escape; the traces of these animals were very numerous on the sides +of the hills; several birds new to us were seen, and we also found about +the bushes the tail-feathers of the Cuculus phasianus (Index Orn. Sup. +page 30). The summit of Crystal Head is of flat tabular form; and the +sides, which are both steep and rugged, are covered with stunted trees +and high grass, now quite dry: the geology of this part is principally of +siliceous sandstone; and on the beach we found large detached water-worn +masses of the same rock, incrusted with quartz and epidote in a +crystallized state. + +(*Footnote. The Centropus phasianus Tem. anal. plate 24. Polophilus +phasianus Shaw's Gen. Zool. volume 9 page 48 plate 11. Zool. Misc. plate +46. Pheasant Cuckow Gen. Syn. sup. 11 page 137.) + +No natives were seen; but, from the large fires that were burning, a +numerous party was probably collected at the bottom of the port. + +October 11. + +On the 11th we got under weigh and anchored again at a few miles further +up the port, near a small rocky island where the latitude was observed to +be 14 degrees 32 minutes 45 seconds. In the afternoon Mr. Roe and Mr. +Cunningham accompanied me in the whale-boat to examine the bottom of the +port; which was found to terminate in two inlets winding under either +side of a bold prominent range of steep rocky hills, thickly clothed with +stunted trees. We pulled up the south-eastern arm; and having proceeded +as far as prudence allowed, for from not calculating upon being absent +long we had brought no provisions, we returned on board with the +intention of examining it further on the following day. In rowing back, a +kangaroo was seen skipping over the hills; and an alligator was lying +asleep on the beach, but it rushed into the water as we passed the spot. + +October 12. + +The next day Mr. Roe, accompanied by Mr. Cunningham, explored both arms; +and from his report the plan is made: but as they are merely salt-water +inlets, they are of little importance. During the absence of the boat the +state of our provisions and water was examined, on both of which, as we +had anticipated, the rats had made considerable havoc; two of the casks +were quite empty from holes gnawed by these animals to get at the water; +and several were so short of their contents that we had but a fortnight's +allowance left: this discovery induced me to determine on taking the +first opportunity that should offer of leaving the coast and resorting to +Timor; for, besides our want of water, several of the crew were attacked +by scurvy, so that it was also necessary to visit it to procure some +fresh provisions for them. + +Port Warrender, which name was bestowed upon this fine harbour, is of +considerable extent; the land is very rugged and rocky; but although the +soil is shallow the hills on the western side are thickly covered with +grass and trees; which grew so luxuriantly in the gullies and bore so +verdant an appearance that fresh hopes were revived of finding water; we +were however very soon convinced of its being entirely destitute of it. + +On the eastern side of the port the land is much broken and fronted by +several islands which were named after Sir John Osborn, one of the Lords +of the Admiralty; among them is a conspicuous steep rocky head, like +Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf; it appeared to be perfectly +inaccessible. + +October 13. + +At daylight (13th) we left the port; we had very little wind during the +day and by sunset had only reached an anchorage off Point Pickering, so +named after a late much-respected friend. + +A bay trends to the westward of Point Pickering, which was called +Walmsley Bay; it probably affords good anchorage. + +October 14. + +During the night we had lightning from the North-West, and the next day +the wind was so light that we did not make much progress; an anchorage +was occupied during the ensuing night to the eastward of Point Biggs, +half a mile to the northward of a small rocky island in ten fathoms and a +half, muddy bottom. Every succeeding day the weather was getting more and +more unfavourable for our purpose; which increased my anxiety to escape +from this labyrinth of islands and shoals; for we had evidently no time +to spare in order to leave the coast before the rainy season should +commence. + +The whole of this gulf is admirably formed for the trepang fishery and +the animal is extremely abundant among the reefs. Both fish and turtle +are plentiful, the latter are of very large size; none however were taken +to determine its species. We have seen very few inhabitants on this part +of the coast but at this season they are doubtless divided into small +detached parties for the greater facility of procuring sustenance, and of +making their reservoirs of water, wherever they may be, last longer. + +October 15. + +The next day, after an ineffectual attempt to pass out through the +islands in the vicinity of Cape Voltaire, we anchored about midway +between three of high flat-topped form; and at night the boat was +despatched to the easternmost island, to watch for turtle, but it +returned without having seen any. During the night the wind blew a +moderate breeze from South-West with dark cloudy weather. + +October 16. + +At daylight we weighed, but from light baffling winds it was some time +before we cleared the islands. The tide however swept us out and drifted +us half a mile to windward of a small peaked island which must be the +Pascal Island of the French: this islet is of small size but remarkable +for its conical shape and having, as it were, its apex cut off. It is +surrounded by a rocky shoal of small extent. + +The wind had now veered to West-North-West and obliged our passing to the +eastward of Cassini Island (of Captain Baudin); and, from the immense +numbers of turtle-tracks that were seen upon its beach, we would gladly +have anchored near it, had a convenient place offered; but the bottom was +so deep that we could not with safety drop our anchor. The plan given by +M. de Freycinet of this archipelago is so defective that many of his +islands could not be recognised; but those which were made out preserve +his names. Cassini Island is sufficiently well placed by him, and was a +useful point for the sake of comparing our longitudes. In the space +between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire, which was named the +Admiralty Gulf, we have given positions to at least forty islands or +islets. + +Having now emerged from the archipelago of islands which front this part +of the north-west coast we seized the opportunity of taking leave of it +for the present and directed our course for Timor. At 4 hours 19 minutes +p.m., when the centre of Cassini Island bore South 4 degrees 30 minutes +West, distance 6 minutes 8 seconds by survey, sights for the chronometers +made the centre of the island in 125 degrees 41 minutes 22 seconds, which +is 2 minutes 32 seconds to the eastward of the longitude assigned to its +centre in M. de Freycinet's chart. + +October 20. + +On the 20th in the evening after a succession of damp weather with +squalls of thunder, lightning, and rain, and variable baffling winds, a +fresh breeze set in from East-South-East. + +October 21. + +At six o'clock the next morning it settled in the South-East with heavy +rain, thunder, and lightning, and afterwards the weather cleared up. As +soon as day dawned, sail was made to the North-West and before noon we +hauled up North-North-West to allow for a westerly current; at two p.m. +the weather clouded in and was followed by squalls of wind and rain from +the North-East, which, after passing over us, returned again from the +westward with more rain but less wind. + +October 22. + +At daylight (22nd) we saw the Island of Rottee, but instead of being, +according to our account, to windward of it, we were very little to the +eastward of its south-west end; having been set forty-three miles to the +westward since yesterday noon. During the day, as the wind was at +South-East, we endeavoured to pass round its windward side, but the +current was setting with such strength to the westward that, finding we +had lost ground during the night, we bore up the next morning for the +island of Savu, a proceeding which, if we should succeed in procuring +refreshments and fresh water there, would be more advantageous than going +to Timor: for in the first place there was less chance of incurring +sickness among the crew; and secondly we should be farther advanced on +our voyage back. Captain Cook, on his visit to Savu in 1770, found a +Dutch resident there; and I recollected having been assured by Mr. +Hazaart, the Resident at Timor, that the people were well-disposed +towards the English: Captain Horsburgh also mentions in his description +of Savu that the Dutch have residents on all these islands; and, as a +corroboration of these accounts, I had been informed by the master of a +merchant schooner at Port Jackson, who had lately been among these +islands, that abundance of good water could be procured there. Opposed to +this last report, Captain Cook says, "We were upon the coast at the +latter end of the dry season (September), when there had been no rain for +seven months, and we were told, that when the dry season continues so +long, there is no running stream of fresh water upon the whole island, +but only small springs, which are at a considerable distance from the sea +side:"* this conflicting account was discouraging; but as we had lately +had much rain it was hoped that there would be a sufficiency in the +springs for our use. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. volume 3 page 277.) + +October 24. + +Having fully weighed all these circumstances we bore up for Savu, and at +four p.m. on the 24th anchored in Zeba Bay, on the north-west side of the +island. The bank on which the anchor was dropped was so steep that, +although the anchor was in twelve fathoms, the vessel was, at the length +of forty fathoms of cable, in twenty-two fathoms. As we were bringing up, +two muskets were fired from the shore, and a white flag, or rather a rag, +was suspended to a pole, around which a group of people had collected. +This flag gave us no very favourable idea of the respectability of the +place, and the meaning of the muskets we could not divine, nor indeed +ever did discover, unless it was that we had anchored on bad ground: the +boat was then hoisted out and I went on shore, accompanied by Messrs. +Bedwell and Cunningham, to where the flag was displayed. On approaching +the shore three people came down to direct us to the proper landing +place; for in all other parts of the beach a heavy surf was breaking. We +were then conducted to a hut in the rear of the flagstaff, where we found +from fifteen to twenty persons assembled; two of whom appeared, by their +dress and from the respect paid to them by the rest, to be chiefs. To +these I addressed myself and inquired for the Dutch resident, but soon +found there was none, and that one of those to whom we were speaking was +the Rajah himself. I afterwards found he was the identical Amadima of +whom interesting mention is made by Peron in his historical account of +Captain Baudin's expedition.* + +(*Footnote. Peron tome 1 pages 119, 151, 161, and 162.) + +My inquiries were made partly by signs and partly by a few terms in the +Malay language that we had collected from Captain Cook,* and from +Labillardiere's account of D'Entrecasteaux's voyage. Aer (water) was +among the foremost of our inquiries, to which we added the terms for +pigs, sheep, fowls, and coconuts, (vavee, doomba, mannu, and nieu). +Everything but water was plentiful and could be supplied by paying for +them in rupees or bartering them for gunpowder. On repeating the question +for water, their constant reply was, trada aer! trada aer! (no water, no +water). No misunderstanding could have taken place, for on our inquiry, +thinking it was for present use, they brought us some to drink. They +afterwards conducted us to a shallow well or spring in which there were +about ten or fifteen gallons; and this was all there was near the sea. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. volume 3 page 298.) + +Amadima, on our landing, sent a horseman to the town with a message, who +soon after returned with a paper which was shown to us; but, the +substance being in Dutch, we could not understand its purport; the sum of +seventy-four rix-dollars was, however, sufficiently plain to show that +money was wanted, and this conjecture was afterwards strengthened by a +petition whispered in my ear by Amadina himself for sato rupee (one +rupee); but, not having provided myself with any, I could not satisfy his +wants. + +Gunpowder was in great request among them and we were given to understand +that we might obtain everything we required, excepting water, for money +or for gunpowder. Trada aer was so often repeated that we re-embarked +quite disappointed. + +On our way to the boat we were accompanied by the whole mob, which had +now increased to forty or fifty people: all the men were armed with +cresses, and two amongst them had swords and spears; but there was no +appearance of hostility or of any unfriendly disposition towards us. When +they saw our empty barica in the boat they intimated by signs that we +might fill it, and Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Cunningham accordingly accompanied +one of our people to the well to take advantage of their offer; for a few +gallons of water were now of great importance to us. + +We then took a friendly leave of these islanders under the full +expectation on their part of our returning in the morning with rupees and +powder to barter with their commodities; whereas I had quite determined +to leave the bay the moment that the day dawned. + +The two following modes of proceeding were now only left to us; namely, +either to beat back to Coepang which bore East by North 120 miles, or to +bear up and pass through the straits of Lombock or Allas, and go to +Madura or Sourabaya for water, of which, on a reduced allowance, we had +enough on board for fifteen days. + +To do the first would probably take a week or ten days, even if favoured +by the wind. At Coepang we could procure everything we wanted; and the +only arguments against such a measure were the probable length of the +voyage, and when there, the chance of being delayed until the adverse +monsoon should set in against us, by which our return to Port Jackson +would be perhaps prevented. To undertake the second would, from our being +weakly manned, subject us to danger from the Malay piratical proas in +passing the Straits; but as the latter mode of proceeding could be +resorted to in the event of our failing in the other, our united opinion +was that, of the two plans, the better was to go to Timor. Upon this +decision all hands were immediately set to work to fill our empty +water-casks with salt water and to get all the weighty things off the +deck into the hold, in order to give the vessel more stability. + +October 25. + +This was completed by night and at break of day we left the anchorage +with a fresh breeze from East-South-East. + +Considering the short time we were on shore it would be the greatest +presumption for me to say anything respecting Savu, when so good an +account is already before the public in Captain Cook's voyage.* Every +circumstance that we could compare with it is still correct, except that +the women appear to have lost the decency he describes them to possess; +for there were several whom curiosity and the novelty of our arrival had +brought down to see us, naked to the hips, which alone supported a +petticoat or wrapper of blue cotton stuff that exposed their knees. + +(*Footnote. Hawkesworth Coll. Volume 3 page 277 et seq.) + +The beach was lined with the areca, or fan-palm tree, from which the +well-known liquor called toddy is procured. During our conference with +these people they were all busily employed in eating the fruit spike of +the piper betle,* which they first thickly covered with shell-lime; after +chewing it for some time, they spit it out into the hand of the attendant +slave who completes the exhaustion of this luxurious morceau by conveying +it to his own mouth. + +(*Footnote. Persoon, in his description of areca catechu, makes the +following observation: E fructu ab extima pellicula libero, simul cum +foliis piperis betle, addito pauxillo calcis ex ostreis, fit +masticatorium, quod Indiani continue volvunt in ore, ut malus anhelitus +corrigatur, et dentes ac stomachus roborentur. Persoon, Syn. Plant. pars. +2 577.) + +They have a small-sized breed of horses at Savu, similar to that of +Rottee; and pigs, sheep, and poultry appeared to be very plentiful. No +observations were taken during our stay in Zeba Bay. The tides were +scarcely perceptible and their rise and fall uncertain from the steep +bank on which we had anchored. + +After quitting the bay we made every possible progress towards Timor; and +as long as we kept between the Islands of Savu and Rottee we found no +perceptible current against us, although the wind was constantly from the +South-East. + +October 26. + +On the 26th the contents of one of our remaining casks of water was found +to be so bad that it could not be used for any purpose; upon examination +it turned out that the cask had been constructed at Port Jackson of the +staves of old salt-provision barrels. This loss, amounting to two days' +water, we could but ill spare: two or three gallons were collected from +the rain which fell during the evening; and this trifling supply, +although it had a tarry taste, was acceptable in our present +circumstances. + +The next morning was calm. A small coasting proa was seen to the +northward but soon afterwards lost sight of, steering towards Timor. + +October 28. + +At daylight (28th) land was seen bearing East 1/2 North; at noon our +latitude was nine degrees 45 minutes 32 seconds; and by the morning and +evening sights for the chronometers a current had set us to the North 81 +degrees West at nearly one mile and a quarter per hour. The wind, hanging +between South-East and South-South-East, prevented our tacking to the +southward to get out of the current, which, on our first experiencing it, +was thought to have been occasioned by a set through the strait of +Rottee; it was however afterwards found that we were on the southern edge +of the current that sets to the westward, down the north coast of Timor, +and that between Rottee and Savu the current is of trifling consequence. + +October 29. + +The next morning land was again indistinctly seen bearing East 12 degrees +South. At ten a.m. it was clearly visible, as well as a peaked hill which +bore East 1/2 North. We were now in a current setting rapidly to the +westward and soon lost a great portion of the ground that we had been so +long toiling to gain. In the evening the wind veering to East-South-East +enabled us to steer to the southward and to get out of the influence of +the current. + +October 30 to 31. + +From this to the 31st we had made little progress to the eastward; but in +the afternoon a breeze set in from West-South-West and brightened our +prospects: our water being now nearly expended, no time was to be lost, +and we steered for the Strait of Rottee in order to pass through that of +Samow; but the wind was so light that, not being sufficiently advanced +before dark, we bore up, and passed round the west side of Pulo Samow +with a breeze from South-East which continued during the night... + +1819. November 1. + +And by daylight had carried us near the north-west end of the island; at +nine a.m. the sea breeze set in from South-West and West, and gradually +increasing, we happily succeeded in arriving off the town of Coepang +where we moored at one-fifth of a mile from the flagstaff of Fort +Concordia, bearing South 14 1/2 degrees East. + +Mr. Roe went on shore soon after anchoring to wait upon the Resident, and +to inform him of the purport of our visit: he found that our former +friend Mr. Hazaart was at Batavia, and that his place was temporarily +supplied by Mr. Halewyn; from whom we experienced such assistance and +attention as enabled us to complete our wood and water and to obtain +refreshments for the crew by the eighth day. + +November 1 to 9. + +The refreshments consisted of sheep, coconuts, limes, bananas, mangoes, +and the Jaca fruit. The sheep weighed from twelve to sixteen pounds and +were charged at about seven shillings and seven pence each. Limes were +very scarce, and oranges, pompions, and other vegetables which were most +wanted, were not to be procured at this season. Honey was very plentiful +and good and was preferred by our people to the gulah, of which we got +large quantities last year. + +The weather during the first three or four days of our stay was fine but +afterwards damp and showery with a succession of land winds, which +affected us all with colds; so that we lost no time in leaving the bay +the moment that our wants were supplied, which was at sunset on the +ninth. + +From the secretary to the government we obtained information that Captain +de Freycinet of the French Corvette L'Uranie had visited Coepang in +October last, and remained there fifteen days. L'Uranie was fitting out +at Toulon when we left England in 1817 for a voyage round the world, and +was expected on her way to touch upon the western coasts of New Holland; +but it appeared that the only place which Captain De Freycinet visited +was Shark's Bay on the western coast; he remained there a short time for +the purpose of swinging his pendulum, and of completing the astronomical +observations that had been previously made during Commodore Baudin's +voyage. We also heard that the master and four of the crew of the ship +Frederick, the wreck of which we had seen at Cape Flinders, had arrived +at Coepang in a ship that was in company with her at the time of the +accident; but what became of the Frederick's longboat, which left the +wreck with twenty-three of the crew, in company with the master's boat, +in which were ONLY FOUR OR FIVE people, never afterwards transpired. + +November 10. + +After leaving Coepang the wind, which freshened up from the East by +North, continued steady until the following day, when we were at noon in +10 degrees 36 minutes 47 seconds South, the summit of Savu bearing North +83 degrees West. The wind then fell and veered to South-South-East, but +towards evening freshened from South-East and South-East by South. + +November 11. + +By eight o'clock we steered a South-West course, and passed the islands +of Savu and Benjoar; the breeze then freshening veered round to the +eastward and brought on heavy rain with much thunder and lightning. + +November 12 to 14. + +After passing the meridian of Sandelwood Island, the wind varied between +north and south by way of east, often suddenly changing eight or ten, and +sometimes thirteen points of the compass at once. + +November 15. + +On the 15th we were at noon in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 7 seconds +and longitude 115 degrees 2 minutes when the wind changed to +West-North-West and cleared up the weather: it then gradually veered +round by South-West and South-South-West to the south-east trade. + +November 21. + +At noon on the 21st we had reached the latitude assigned to the Tryal +Rocks by the Dutch sloop, namely, 19 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds; our +longitude was 108 degrees 8 minutes 36 seconds. Other accounts place +these rocks in 20 degrees 50 minutes; we therefore stood on with caution, +for the wind and the currents to the North-West were too strong for us to +lie to with safety for the night. + +November 22. + +At two a.m. being in latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes 14 seconds and +longitude 107 degrees 11 minutes 36 seconds we sounded without success +with ninety fathoms of line, and at four o'clock, having ran seven miles +on a South-West by South course, had no bottom with ninety-five fathoms: +at noon our latitude was 21 degrees 23 minutes 24 seconds, and longitude +106 degrees 41 minutes, when no bottom was reached with eighty fathoms. + +The wind continued with little variation between South-East by South and +South-East by East until we reached the latitude of 27 1/2 degrees and +102 degrees 20 minutes East; here we had light southerly winds for two +days after which the South-East winds carried us as far as 32 degrees +South and 99 degrees 45 minutes East; between this and 34 degrees South +we had variable light airs from East-South-East to South-South-West. +Afterwards alternate northerly and southerly winds, with fine weather and +top-gallant breezes, carried us as far as latitude 38 degrees and +longitude 117 1/2 degrees. From this we ran along the south coast of New +Holland, with strong gales between South-South-West and West; but on +approaching Bass Strait the winds hung to the southward, and veering +afterwards to South-East we were driven to the northward. + +1819. December 24. + +On the 24th December at eight p.m. we made the land between Cape +Northumberland and Cape Buffon. + +December 27. + +But from light baffling winds had advanced no farther by noon (27th) than +four or five miles South-South-West of Lady Julia Percy's Isle. This +island is incorrectly laid down in Captain Flinders' chart, owing to the +very unfavourable weather which he experienced in passing this part of +the coast; we found it to lie East 3 degrees South (true) seventeen miles +and a half from Lawrence Island: a second island has a place in Captain +Flinders' chart, but we saw nothing of it. The coast also lies farther +back in proportion to the error of the island's position. + +1820. January 2. + +At four o'clock p.m. 2nd January we entered Bass Strait by the channel on +the north side of King's Island. + +January 12. + +After passing through the strait we experienced so much bad weather and +contrary gales of wind that we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the +morning of the 12th, having been absent thirty-five weeks and four days. + +The result of our proceedings during this voyage has been the survey of +540 miles of the northern coast, in addition to the 500 that were +previously examined. Besides which we had made a running survey of that +portion of the intertropical part of the east coast that is situated +between the Percy Isles and Torres Strait; a distance of 900 miles; the +detailed survey of which had never before been made, for Captain Cook +merely examined it in a cursory manner as he passed up the coast. The +opportunity, therefore, was not lost of making such observations on our +voyage as enabled me to present to the public a route towards Torres +Strait infinitely preferable on every account to the dangerous navigation +without the reefs, which has hitherto been chiefly used. + +As it was not intended that I should make the survey of this extensive +tract of coast I did not feel myself authorized to examine in any very +detailed way the bottom of every bay or opening that presented itself; +but merely confined myself to laying down the vessel's track and the +positions of various reefs that were strewed on either side of it; and +also to fixing the situations of the head-lands. In doing this enough has +been effected to serve as the precursor of a more particular examination +of the coast, the appearance of which, from its general fertile and +mountainous character, made me regret the necessity of passing so hastily +over it. + + + +CHAPTER 9. +Equipment for the third voyage. +Leave Port Jackson. +Loss of bowsprit, and return. +Observations upon the present state of the colony, as regarding the +effect of floods upon the River Hawkesbury. +Re-equipment and final departure. +Visit Port Bowen. +Cutter thrown upon a sandbank. +Interview with the natives, and description of the country about Cape +Clinton. +Leave Port Bowen. +Pass through the Northumberland, and round the Cumberland Islands. +Anchor at Endeavour River. +Summary of observations taken there. +Visit from the natives. +Vocabulary of their language. +Observations thereon in comparing it with Captain Cook's account. +Mr. Cunningham visits Mount Cook. +Leave Endeavour River, and visit Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders and Pelican Island. +Entangled in the reefs. +Haggerston's Island, Sunday Island, and Cairncross Island. +Cutter springs a leak. +Pass round Cape York. +Endeavour Strait. +Anchor under Booby Island. +Remarks upon the Inner and Outer routes through Torres Strait. + +1820. June 21. + +In preparing our little vessel for a third voyage, it became requisite to +give her a considerable repair; and among many other things there was an +absolute necessity for her being fresh coppered; but from the pretended +scarcity of copper sheathing in the colony and other circumstances that +opposed the measure, we found more than a common difficulty in effecting +it. The cutter was careened at a place appointed for the purpose on the +east side of Sydney Cove; and whilst undergoing her repair the crew lived +on board a hulk hired for the occasion. This offered so favourable an +opportunity for destroying the rats and cockroaches with which she was +completely overrun, a measure that, from the experience of our last +voyage, was considered absolutely necessary for our comfort as well as +for our personal safety, that, as soon as the operation of coppering and +caulking was finished, she was secured alongside of the hulk, and there +immersed in the water for several days, by which process we hoped +effectually to destroy them. + +Upon the vessel being raised and the water pumped out, I was rejoiced to +find that the measure appeared to have had the desired effect; but, +before we left Port Jackson, she was again infested by rats, and we had +not been long at sea before the cockroaches also made their appearance in +great numbers. In sinking the cutter it seemed, in respect to the +insects, that we had only succeeded in destroying the living stock, and +that the eggs, which were plentifully deposited in the recesses and +cracks of the timbers and sides, proved so impervious to the sea-water, +that no sooner had we reached the warmer climate, than they were hatched, +and the vessel was quickly repossessed by them; but it was many months +before we were so annoyed by their numbers as had been the case during +the last voyage. + +Our crew, after they had returned the stores and fitted the standing +rigging, were paid their wages; when, with only two exceptions, they were +at their own wish discharged, and it was some time before a new crew was +collected. Whilst we were repairing the defects, H.M. store-ship +Dromedary arrived from England and brought us a selection of stores, for +the want of which we should otherwise have been detained many months. + +By this ship orders were received from the Admiralty to rig the cutter +with rope manufactured from the New Zealand hemp (Phormium tenax) but +there was a considerable difficulty in procuring enough even for a +boom-sheet. This specimen was prepared by a rope-maker of the colony, and +the result of the trial has fully justified the good opinion previously +formed of its valuable qualities. + +In my communication to the Admiralty in June, 1818 from Timor, I had +mentioned the necessity of a medical man being attached to the vessel; +and upon my last return I found one had arrived with an appointment to +the Mermaid; but, to my great mortification, he was unable to join, from +being afflicted with mental derangement which continued so long and so +severely that I was under the necessity of sending him back to England. +We had now every prospect of encountering a third voyage without the +assistance of a surgeon. Hitherto we had been fortunate in not having +materially suffered from the want of so valuable an officer; but it was +scarcely probable we could expect to continue upon such a service much +longer without severe sickness. As any assistance therefore was +preferable to none, I accepted the proffered services of a young man who +was strongly recommended by his Excellency the Governor, and he was on +the point of joining me, when a surgeon of the navy, Mr. James Hunter, +who had just arrived in charge of a convict ship, volunteered his +services which were gladly accepted, and he was immediately attached to +the Mermaid's establishment. + +The accession of a surgeon to our small party relieved me of a greater +weight of anxiety than I can describe; and when it is considered that Mr. +Hunter left an employment of a much more lucrative nature to join an +arduous service in a vessel whose only cabin was scarcely large enough to +contain our mess-table, and which afforded neither comfort nor +convenience of any description, I may be allowed here to acknowledge my +thanks for the sacrifice he made. + +After all our defects were repaired, and we were otherwise quite ready +for sea, we were detained nearly a month before our crew was completed. + +June 14. + +And it was not until the 14th of June that we left Port Jackson. + +For a day or two previous to our departure the weather had been very +unsettled; and when we sailed, there was every appearance of an +approaching gale of wind: we had however been detained so long in +collecting a crew that I was glad to sail the moment we were ready: +besides I hoped to get to the northward before the threatening storm +commenced. Unfortunately however we had no sooner put to sea than it set +in; and by the time we were abreast of Smoky Cape the wind, after flying +about, fixed itself in the eastern board, and blew extremely hard with +thick weather and heavy rain. + +June 20 to 22. + +The gale lasted with little intermission during the 20th and 21st; and at +four o'clock the next morning we had the misfortune to lose our bowsprit +by the vessel's plunging into a head sea. We had however made a +sufficient offing to enable us to keep away two points, so that, by +rigging the wreck of the bowsprit, which was barely long enough to spread +the storm jib, we contrived to steer a course we had every reason to +think would carry her clear of Port Stevens. We continued to run to the +southward until the afternoon, when, supposing we had passed that port, +we bore away to the South-West. At midnight the gale fell, and the wind +changed to the westward. + +June 23. + +At daylight land was seen to windward, which, from the distance we had +ran, was supposed to be about Port Stevens; but we found ourselves at +noon by a meridional observation, off Jervis Bay; so that the current +during the gale had set us one hundred and fifty miles to the southward, +and for the last twenty-four hours at the rate of nearly three knots per +hour. + +June 24. + +Owing to this we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the following day +at noon; and it was sunset before the cutter anchored in the cove. + +It appeared on our arrival that the weather had been even worse on the +land than we had experienced it at sea. The Nepean and Hawkesbury Rivers +had been flooded, by which the growing crops had been considerably +injured, but happily the colony has long ceased to suffer from these once +much-dreaded inundations: a great portion of upland country out of the +reach of the waters is now cultivated, from which the government stores +are principally supplied with grain. Individuals who, from obstinacy, +persist in the cultivation of the low banks of the Hawkesbury, alone +suffer from these destructive floods, which have been known to rise in a +few hours to the height of eighty feet above the usual level of the +river's bed. The evil, however, deposits its own atonement; and the +succeeding crop, if it escapes a flood, repays the settlers for their +previous loss: this it is that emboldens them to persist in their +ill-advised temerity. At no very distant period a time will arrive when +these very lands, the cultivation of which has caused so much distress to +the colony and ruin to individuals, will, by being laid down in grass for +the purposes of depasturing cattle, become a considerable source of +wealth to their possessors. + +There has been no general want of grain in the colony since the year +1817, although there have been several floods upon the Hawkesbury and the +other rivers that fall into it, which have greatly distressed the farmers +of that district. One of the arguments, therefore, with which the enemies +of colonizing in New South Wales have hitherto armed themselves, in order +to induce emigrants to give the preference to Van Diemen's Land, falls to +the ground. + +We were fortunate in finding in the naval yard, a spar of the New Zealand +cowrie pine (dammara) large enough for our bowsprit. + +1820. July 13. + +And on the 13th of July, having had our damages repaired, we resumed our +voyage under more favourable omens, for we sailed with a fair wind and +fine weather. + +July 17. + +On the 17th July we were off Moreton Bay, and in the afternoon +communicated with a whaler which heaved in sight off the Cape (Moreton). +My object was to learn whether she had heard any tidings of a boat +belonging to the Echo whaler, which ship had been lately wrecked on the +Cato's bank: one of her boats, with part of her crew, arrived at Sydney a +few days before we sailed; but another boat, in which the master and the +remainder of her people embarked, had not been heard of; and I +entertained hopes that this vessel had picked them up, but, on the +master's coming on board, I found that he was quite ignorant of her loss. + +It so happened that both ships belonged to the same owner, Messrs. +Bennetts of London; and we had the satisfaction of afterwards hearing +that the information we had thus afforded proved useful; for the vessel +subsequently succeeded in finding the boat, and preserving the lives of +the crew. After giving our visitor some information respecting the coast +and the reef off Cape Moreton, which he claimed as his discovery, but +which, much to his surprise, we showed him already laid down on Captain +Flinders' chart of 1801, he returned to his ship, and we resumed our +course to the northward. + +July 18. + +At nine o'clock the next evening, having passed Indian Head in the +morning, we rounded Breaksea Spit, and at midnight brought to the wind in +order to make Lady Elliot's Island. + +July 19. + +But, finding at daylight that a current had drifted us past it, we +steered on, and at ten o'clock discovered a group of low woody islets. +They were named Bunker's Isles. It has been since ascertained that they +abound with turtle and beche de mer, the latter of which, if not both, +will at some future time become of considerable importance to the +coasting trade of New South Wales. + +July 20. + +On the 20th we anchored on the south side of Port Bowen, in the entrance +of the inlet that extends to the southward within the projection of Cape +Clinton; but in doing this we were unfortunate enough to get aground, and +receive very serious damage. After passing the Cape and hauling round its +inner trend towards the sandy bay, we had to beat to windward to reach +the anchorage, and, in the act of tacking on the western side of the +inlet, the tide swept us upon a sandbank, over which, as the wind was +blowing obliquely upon it, the cutter continued to drive until the sails +were taken in and an anchor laid out astern to check her; but before we +could extricate her from the dangerous situation in which she was placed, +it was found necessary to lay out another bower-anchor, for there was a +rolling swell upon the bank, and every time it left her she struck very +hard upon the ground. Happily the tide was flowing, and as soon as the +vessel floated she was warped into a secure birth within the heads of the +inlet. + +During the time that the cutter had been on the bank, which was two hours +and a half, she was continually striking; and at one time we heard a loud +crash which gave us reason to fear that some serious damage had happened. +At first it was thought either that the pintles of the rudder were broken +or that the stern-post was rent; but upon examination both appeared to +have escaped; and as no leak was observed during the night I indulged the +hope that the noise was not occasioned by any accident that would +inconvenience us, or oblige our premature return to Port Jackson. That +this hope proved to be fallacious will soon appear; and, had the extent +of the damage received been discovered before we left this anchorage, I +should not have ventured further up the coast, but have immediately +returned to Port Jackson. Had the tide been falling when the vessel +struck, instead of the reverse, our situation must have been attended +with more serious damage, if not our total loss; and therefore, comforted +by an ideal security, we consoled ourselves under our comparatively good +fortune. + +July 21. + +The next day was spent in watering, getting provisions to hand in the +hold, and refitting some temporary damage to the rigging. Mr. Hunter and +Mr. Cunningham ranged about the vicinity of the shore whilst Mr. Roe, +with a boat's crew, was employed in filling our empty water-casks from a +gully at the back of the beach. + +Soon after the watering-party commenced their work some shrill voices +were heard near them among the trees: in a short time two natives made +their appearance and were easily persuaded to approach. They were +unarmed, and communicated with confidence, and apparently were disposed +to be friendly; one of them gave Mr. Roe a fishing-line spun and twisted +of strips of bark, to the end of which was attached a hook made from a +turtle-shell. + +Our gentlemen revisited the shore in the afternoon but without seeing the +natives. In wandering about they discovered some stumps of trees close to +the beach that bore marks of having been felled with a sharp instrument; +and near some huts they found several strips of canvas lying on the +ground, from which it would appear that the place had recently been +visited by Europeans. + +July 22. + +I landed the next morning with a theodolite in order to obtain some +bearings from the summit of the hill over the beach, but my intention was +frustrated by a visit from the natives, five of whom made their +appearance upon the hills as the boat arrived at the shore. The party +consisted of three men and two boys: one of the men carried a spear, +another had a boomerang* of a smaller size but otherwise similar to that +which the Port Jackson natives use; and the boys each carried a short +branch of a tree in their hands: they met us halfway and allowed us to +approach with our muskets, a circumstance which dispelled all suspicion +of any unfriendly feeling towards us; nor do I think any did exist when +we first met. + +(*Footnote. The boomerang is a very formidable weapon; it is a short, +curved piece of heavy wood, and is propelled through the air by the hand +in so skilful a manner that the thrower alone knows where it will fall. +It is generally thrown against the wind and takes a rapid rotary motion. +It is used by the natives with success in killing the kangaroo, and is, I +believe, more a hunting than a warlike weapon. The size varies from +eighteen to thirty inches in length, and from two to three inches broad. +The shape is that of an obtuse angle rather than a crescent: one in my +possession is twenty-six inches long, its greatest breadth two inches and +a half, thickness half an inch, and the angle formed from the centre is +140 degrees. Boomerang is the Port Jackson term for this weapon, and may +be retained for want of a more descriptive name. There is a drawing of it +by M. Lesueur in Plate 22 Figure 6 of Peron's Atlas; it is there +described by the name of sabre a ricochet. This plate may, by the way, be +referred to for drawings of the greater number of the weapons used by the +Port Jackson natives, all of which, excepting the identical boomerang, +are very well delineated. M. Lesueur has however failed in his sabre a +ricochet.) + +In order to divert them and obtain as much information as we could whilst +the boat's crew were filling the water-casks, we seated ourselves on the +grass and commenced a conversation that was perfectly unintelligible to +each other, accompanied with the most ridiculous gestures, a species of +buffoonery that is always acceptable to the natives of this part of the +world, and on more than one occasion has been particularly useful to us. +An attempt was made to procure a vocabulary of their language, but +without success, for we were soon obliged from their impatience to give +it up. Not so easily, however, were they diverted from their object, for +every article of our dress, and everything we carried, they asked for +with the greatest importunity; our refusal disappointed them so much that +they could not avoid showing the hostile feelings they had evidently +begun to entertain towards us. Seeing this, I took an opportunity of +convincing them of our power, and after some difficulty persuaded the +native that carried the spear to throw it at a paper-mark placed against +a bush at the distance of twelve yards. He launched it twice, but, much +to his mortification, without striking the object. Mr. Hunter then fired +and perforated the paper with shot, which increased the shame that the +native and his companions evidently felt upon the occasion: Mr. Hunter +then killed a small bird that was skipping about the branches of an +overhanging tree; upon the bird being given to them, they impatiently and +angrily examined it all over, and particularly scrutinized the wound that +caused its death. + +We now found that the proved superiority of our weapons, instead of +quieting them, only served to inflame their anger the more; and we were +evidently on the point of an open rupture. One of them seized the +theodolite-stand, which I carried in my hand, and I was obliged to use +force to retain it. They then made signs to Mr. Hunter to send his gun to +the boat; this was of course refused, upon which one of them seized it, +and it was only by wrenching it from his grasp that Mr. Hunter +repossessed himself of it. + +Many little toys were now given to them, on receiving which their +countenances relaxed into a smile; and peace would perhaps have been +restored, had we not unfortunately presented them with a looking-glass, +in which they were, for the first time, witnesses of their hideous +countenances, which were rendered still more savage from the ill-humour +they were in. They now became openly angry; and in very unequivocal terms +ordered us away. Fortunately the Indian that carried the spear was the +least ill-tempered of the party, or we should not perhaps have retreated +without being under the necessity of firing in self-defence. + +We retired however without any farther rupture and left them seated on +the bank, whence they continued to watch our movements until the boat was +loaded and we left the shore. They then came down to the beach and +searched about for whatever things we might accidentally have left +behind; and after examining with great attention some marks that, for +amusement, some of our party had scratched upon the sand, they separated. +The old man and the two boys embarked in a canoe and paddled round the +point towards the Cape, in which direction also the other two natives +bent their steps. + +The tall, slender form of the Port Jackson natives and their other +peculiarities of long curly hair, large heads, and spare limbs are +equally developed in the inhabitants of this part. The bodies of these +people are however considerably more scarified than their countrymen to +the southward, and their teeth are perfect. One of our visitors had a +fillet of plaited grass, whitened by pigment, bound round his head, and +this was the only ornament worn by them. + +The spear was of very rude form and seemed to be a branch of the +mangrove-tree, made straight by the effect of fire: it did not appear +that they used the throwing-stick. + +The soil of the hills of Cape Clinton is of good quality but the country +at the back of the port appears to be chiefly marshy land. Mr. Hunter +sowed orange and lemon seeds in various places in the neighbourhood of +the cape; the climate of this part is so well adapted for those trees +that, if it were possible to protect them from the fires of the natives, +they would soon grow up, and prove a valuable refreshment to voyagers. + +Captain Flinders describes the soil at the northern part of the port to +be "either sandy or stony, and unfit for cultivation."* The country +around Mount Westall is also formed of a shallow soil, but the low lands +are covered with grass and trees, and the ravines and sides of the hills +are covered with stunted pine-trees which were thought to be the +Araucaria excelsa. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 38.) + +The country between Port Bowen and Shoalwater Bay is low and overrun with +mangroves; but Captain Flinders* speaks more favourably of the land about +the latter bay, particularly in the vicinity of his Pine Mount, where he +describes the soil as being fit for cultivation. At Upper Head in Broad +Sound the country appears to be still better;** in addition to which the +great rise of tides might be of considerable importance to that place, +should a settlement there ever be contemplated. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 2 page 51.) + +(**Footnote. Idem volume 2 page 71.) + +Having obtained sights on the beach at Cape Clinton for the time-keepers +we sailed out of this port by the same track that we entered; and held +our course to the northward towards the Northumberland Islands. + +At midnight we were abreast of the Percy Islands. + +July 23. + +At noon the next day we passed to the westward of the islet, marked kl, +and thence steered between the Three Rocks and k2, and, before sunset, +were near l2, the island on which Captain Flinders landed. + +July 24. + +The night was passed under sail and at daylight, when we resumed our +course towards the Cumberland Islands, Linne Peak and Shaw's Peak, and +the land about Capes Hillsborough and Conway were seen. At noon we were +off Pentecost Island. + +Hence we steered to the northward within a string of rocky islets. On +passing this part, some natives came down to a point, and kindled a fire +to attract our attention. At four o'clock in the evening we rounded the +north extreme of the Cumberland Islands; and by sunset obtained a set of +bearings to connect the present survey with that of last year. A lofty +peak on the main, distinctly visible from all parts, particularly from +Repulse Bay, was named after the late Jonas Dryander, Esquire; it was +ascertained to be 4566 feet high. + +The Cumberland Islands are all high and rocky and are covered on their +windward or south-east sides with stunted timber and pine-trees; but the +leeward sides, being sheltered from the wind, are generally well clothed +with grass and timber. The pine-trees on these islands do not appear to +be of large dimensions but several vessels have cut spars upon the +islands near the south end of Whitsunday Passage, large enough for +topmasts and bowsprits for vessels of 400 tons burthen. It is not +probable that larger spars can be obtained: they are very tough, but full +of knots; and, when carried away by the wind, break short without +splintering. + +July 25. + +We passed Capes Gloucester and Upstart during the night and early part of +the next morning. Between the latter cape and the low projection of Cape +Bowling-green, we experienced an in-draught of three-quarters of a knot +per hour. This also occurred last year; and it should be guarded against +by ships passing by: for the land about the latter cape is so low that it +cannot be seen at night. + +From the period of our entering among the Northumberland Islands, the +weather, although fine, had been more than usually hazy; the wind during +the day blew moderately from South by East and South, and veered towards +night to South-East by East and East-South-East; but when we passed Cape +Cleveland it blew a fresh breeze, and was so very hazy that we could not +take advantage of our vicinity to the coast by verifying or improving any +part of our former survey, except the outer or seaward side of the Palm +Island Group, near which we passed in the evening. + +July 26. + +The next morning we were off the southernmost Barnard's Island, and as +the coast between Double Point and Fitzroy Island had not been +satisfactorily laid down on the previous examination of this part, we +steered near the shore in order to improve it; but the land was much +overcast and the summits of Bellenden Ker's Range were so enveloped in +clouds that very little improvement was effected. + +A breeze, however, in the evening from South-East dispersed the vapours +that had collected during the day on the sea horizon. In passing outside +of Fitzroy Island, a sandbank situated nine miles East 1/2 South from the +island was noticed, and other banks were reported from the masthead; but +on my going up I saw nothing more than a bright appearance on the +horizon, which is however an indication of their existence that seldom +failed in being correct, whenever an opportunity offered of proving it. + +Bearing up between Cape Grafton and Green Island we steered North-West +1/2 North, by compass to make the Low Isles in Trinity Bay. The weather +was thick and misty with showers of rain; but, as a sight of these +islands was of consequence in crossing this bay, we continued to steer +for them, and at midnight they were seen. This enabled us to direct the +course with more confidence towards Cape Tribulation over Captain Cook's +track. + +July 27. + +At daylight we were off the cape and soon passed to the eastward of the +Hope Islands; between which and Endeavour River we had an opportunity of +laying down the reefs in the offing, particularly that on which the +Endeavour struck, and which so nearly proved fatal to her enterprising +commander and his companions. + +As it was our intention to visit Endeavour River to complete our former +observations for the determination of its longitude, we hauled in for the +land and upon reaching the entrance, with which I was sufficiently +acquainted, steered over the bar on which the least water was ten feet, +and secured the cutter to the beach on the same spot occupied at our last +visit. + +Being anxious to see what change had taken place during an absence of +twelve months, our steps were naturally first directed to the spot where +our boat had been built; the remains of our encampment were still +visible, and the carpenter's bench was exactly in the same state as it +had been left: the Mermaid's name, which had been carved on a tree, was +also legible; but in a short time would have been defaced by the young +bark which had already nearly covered it. Upon visiting our former +watering place we were mortified to find that it was quite dried up; and +this may probably account for the absence of natives, for there was not a +single vestige of their presence on this side of the port; but as large +fires were burning at the back of the north shore it was presumed they +were in that direction. On setting fire to the grass to clear a space for +our tent, it was quickly burnt to the ground, and the flames continued to +ravage and extend over the hills until midnight. + +July 28. + +The following day we erected tents and commenced some repairs to the +jolly-boat, which was hauled up in the usual place; the other two boats +were sent to the north end of the long sandy beach on the opposite side +to examine the state of the rivulet which we had noticed there last year. +On their return they reported it to be still running with a plentiful +stream; and although it was rather inconvenient, from the beach being +exposed to the swell and surf, yet our boats made daily trips to it +without any ill consequences, notwithstanding one of them was once +swamped in loading; it did not however sustain any injury. + +Another stream of water was subsequently found on the south side, a +little without the entrance of the harbour, but too brackish for the +purposes of drinking; it was therefore merely used during our stay for +the common purposes of washing and cooking. + +Whilst our people were thus employed I was assisted by Mr. Roe at the +observatory. As the particulars of our observations for this and the +preceding years are inserted in the Appendix it will be sufficient here +merely to record the position of the observatory; it was situated on the +south shore opposite the low sandy north point; and was found to be in: + +Latitude: 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds. +Longitude: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds. +Variation of the compass: 5 degrees 13 3/4 minutes East. +Dip of the south end of the Needle: 38 degrees. +High water at full and change: at eight o'clock. + +July 29. + +On the 29th Mr. Bedwell went to Captain Cook's Turtle Reef but he was +unsuccessful in his search for that animal; neither did he find any +shells different from what we had previously seen; only a few clams +(Chama gigas) were brought away, besides a small fish of the shark tribe +(Squalus ocellatus, Linn.). At high water the reef was overflowed +excepting at its north-west end where a patch of sand not larger than the +boat was left dry. At low tide the key, or the ridge of rocks heaped up +round the edge of the reef, was left dry and formed a barricade for the +interior, which is occupied by a shallow lake of circular shape in which +many small fish and some sharks were seen swimming about. It was from +this reef that Captain Cook, during the repair of his ship, procured +turtle for her crew; and, this being the same season, we were +disappointed in not obtaining any. On the return of the boat she was +placed in some danger from the number of whales, of the fin-back species, +that were sporting about the surface of the water and occasionally +leaping out of it and lashing the sea with their enormous fins. + +July 30. + +On the 30th, having hitherto carried on our occupation without seeing or +hearing anything of the natives, whilst I was busily employed with Mr. +Roe in observing the sun's meridional altitude, I happened on looking +round to espy five natives standing about forty or fifty yards off among +the high grass watching our movements. As soon as they perceived we had +discovered them they began to repeat the word itchew (friend) and to pat +their breasts, thereby intimating that their visit had no hostile motive. +As the sun was rapidly approaching its meridian I called Mr. Bedwell from +on board to amuse them until our observations were completed. The only +weapons they appeared to carry were throwing-sticks, which we easily +obtained in exchange for some grains of Indian corn. + +A few words were obtained by Mr. Cunningham which served to confirm many +we had possessed ourselves of last year; and which, being afterwards +compared with the vocabulary of the New South Wales language given by +Captain Cook, proves that he obtained it at Endeavour River. And here it +is not a little curious to remark that, of the only two words which +materially differ in the two accounts, one of them is the name of the +kangaroo. This word was repeatedly used to them last year, as well as +this, accompanied by an imitation of the leap of the animal, which they +readily understood; but on repeating the word kangaroo they always +corrected us by saying "men-u-ah." This animal has therefore been +distinguished by a name which chance alone gave it; and not, as has +always been supposed, from the term applied to it by the natives of the +part where Captain Cook first saw it. + +The resemblance of the words in the following vocabulary proves that the +language of these people has not changed since Captain Cook's visit; and +that in the term for kangaroo he has been mistaken. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. +COLUMN 2: WORD ACCORDING TO OUR VOCABULARY. +COLUMN 3: WORD ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN COOK. + +Kangaroo : Men-u-ah : Kangaroo. +Canoe : Mar-a-gan : Maragan. +Eye : Ca-ree, or Me-ell : Meul. +Nose : E-mer-da, or Po-te-er : Bon-joo. +Ear : Mil-kah : Melea. +Teeth : Mol-ear. +Knee : Bon-go : Pongo. +Toes : Eb-e-rah. +Navel : Tool-po-ra : Tool poor. +A quail : Kah-kee or Mool-lar. +Friend : It-chew. +Pigment : Wo-parr. +Feathers : Te-err. +Hair of the head : Mor-re-ah : Morye. +Beard : Wol-lah : Wallar. +Nipples : Coy-o-ber-rah : Cayo. +Fingers : Mun-gal-bah. +Elbow : Ye-er-we. +Huts : Ye-er-kah. +Go along, go away, or go on : Tattee or Tah-tee. + +Among the presents made to them were some beads which they appeared to +consider of little value; but what pleased them most was a bird that Mr. +Hunter shot previous to their appearance. + +Their visit did not last longer than a quarter of an hour during which +they were very pressing for us to accompany them; finding us however +unwilling to trust ourselves in their power, for from our experience of +their mischievous behaviour last year we had good reason to be suspicious +of their intentions, they went away, but after walking a short distance, +one of them returned, and stooping, picked up something with which he +immediately slunk off, evidently with the hope of having escaped our +notice: but in this he was disappointed; for Mr. Hunter and Mr. +Cunningham followed him and ascertained that he had returned to carry +away his spear which had been concealed close at hand during their +communication with our party; and by the limping gait of the rest it was +probable that they all carried spears between their toes; a practice that +has been frequently observed among the natives in many parts of New South +Wales, when they wish to conceal their being armed; and which generally +indicates a mischievous intention. + +Shortly after their departure the country towards the back of the harbour +was perceived to have been set on fire by them; as the wind was fresh the +flames spread about in all directions; and in the evening our people +being allowed to range about for amusement, increased the conflagration +by setting fire to the surrounding grass; so that the whole surface was +in a blaze. + +July 31. + +The next day, whilst busily employed at the tent in calculating some +lunar distances, we were suddenly alarmed by the rapid approach of the +flames; but having previously taken the precaution of burning the grass +off round the tent, their advance was received with unconcern: the +rapidity and fierceness however with which they approached made me fear +that the sparks might set fire to the tent, upon which the instruments +were moved to the water's edge and the tent pulled down; but, had not the +grass been previously cleared away, we could not have saved any article, +from the rapidity with which the flames spread through that which had +been left standing and which was not more than ten yards from the tent. + +1820. August 2. + +Three days after the visit from the natives, Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Hunter +proceeded to examine among the mangroves at the back of the harbour for a +communication with some fresh water ponds which we had discovered the day +before; but they returned in the afternoon without success. They had +penetrated up two or three openings in the mangroves; in one of which was +found a canoe, similar to that described by Woodcut 3: it was hollowed +out of the trunk of the erythrina and was furnished with an outrigger. A +turtle-peg was found in it, which Mr. Hunter brought away; it measured +seventeen inches in length and was in other respects similar to that used +by the natives of Rockingham Bay. (See Woodcut 4.) On the mud and close +to the canoe the gentlemen noticed the impression of a human foot, that +must have been made since the previous high tide. They also saw an +alligator but it was not more than eight feet in length. + +Mr. Cunningham returned in the evening from a walk to the summit of Mount +Cook, much fatigued from the difficulty he experienced in the ascent: he +brought with him however a collection of specimens and seeds, which fully +repaid him for the toil of his excursion. He also rendered his expedition +useful to me by taking the bearings of some reefs in the offing and by +furnishing a sketch of the bay on the south side of the mountain, and of +the rivulet which falls into it. This did not appear to him to be deep +enough for a vessel larger than a boat. It was this bay that Captain Cook +first examined for a place to repair his ship after his escape from the +reef; but he found it much too inconvenient and exposed for his purpose; +and it was after this that Endeavour River was discovered. + +On one of Mr. Cunningham's explorations he found several cabbage palms +(Seaforthia elegans, Brown); but they were too distant from the tents to +induce me to send for any for the ship's company. Besides this he also +found a species of yam (Caladium macrorhizum, Cunn. manuscripts) the +roots of which would have furnished an excellent substitute for +vegetables for us, had the plants been found in abundance and convenient +for gathering. + +During our stay at this harbour our gentlemen visited every part of the +country within five or six miles from the tents. The soil, although +covered with grass, was generally remarked to be shallow and of inferior +quality; as was sufficiently indicated by the small size of the trees. +The distance to which we had penetrated was by no means sufficient to +give a fair idea of the nature of the country in the interior; which from +its hilly appearance might be expected to possess both a rich soil and a +better pasturage than the parts we had seen; but for the latter, the +neighbourhood of the entrance of Endeavour River was by no means +insignificant. + +The small number of our crew prevented my sending away a party to examine +the interior with any certainty of protection either to the travellers or +to those left in charge of the vessel; and this circumstance, on several +occasions, precluded us from forming any correct idea of the productions +of the places we visited, which we probably might have been partially +enabled to do by a walk of two or three miles from the sea. + +Some kangaroos were seen by us during our visit; and Mr. Hunter shot a +few birds: among the latter was a specimen of the Psittacus haematodus, +or Blue-mountain parrot of Port Jackson; and a crane-like bird, similar +to the Ardea antigone, was seen at a distance. Some of our gentlemen +observed the impression of a bird's foot, resembling that of an emu; it +was nine inches broad: very few insects were found here. We saw no more +of the natives after their visit on the 30th but the smokes of their +fires were frequently observed in the interior. Mr. Cunningham found some +traces of their having eaten the fruit of the pandanus, of which he says, +"Pandanus pedunculatus, Brown, forms ornamental clumps on these arid +downs, and, being now heavily laden with its compound fruit, afforded me +an ample supply of seeds in a well-ripened state. These tempting +orange-coloured fruits had induced the natives to gather a quantity for +the sake of the little pulp about their base, and I observed that, in +order to enjoy themselves without trouble, they had lately kindled their +fires immediately beneath some of the trees laden with fruit, which with +some shellfish had afforded them a good repast." Cunningham manuscripts. + +The weather during our visit has been oftener clouded and hazy than +clear: the wind veered between South-South-East and East-South-East, and +was generally fresh and accompanied with squalls. The thermometer ranged +on board in the shade between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the heat +was by no means oppressive. + +Having sufficiently attained our object in visiting this place, and +having also taken the opportunity of completing our wood and water and +repairing our boat, we prepared to sail. + +August 5. + +And on the 5th at seven o'clock in the morning weighed anchor and made +for the bar; but the wind was so baffling and unsteady that we had great +difficulty in passing over it. + +Our course was then directed round Cape Bedford towards Lizard Island. On +our way we noticed several shoals. Off the south-west end of the island +we saw a great many whales: soon after three o'clock we anchored in a +sandy bay on its south-west side. + +August 6. + +The wind during the night and the following day blew so fresh as to +prevent our proceeding; the delay was therefore taken advantage of by our +gentlemen to land and examine the island. It may be recollected that it +was from the summit of Lizard Island that Captain Cook discovered the +openings in the reefs through which he passed and got to sea; little +thinking that, by so doing, he was incurring a greater risk than by +remaining within the reefs and steering along the coast. Some of our +people walked round the island where they found a whaler's ton butt cast +upon the beach: it had probably belonged to the Echo. Near the cask were +lying several coconuts, one of which was quite sound and perfect. The +beach was strewed with pumice-stone heaped up above the high-water mark. + +The basis of the island is a coarse-grained granite. A shallow soil on +the sides of the hills, the surface of which was thickly strewed with +stones and large masses of rock, nourished a slight clothing of grass and +other herbage. The summit of the island forms a peak, and is perhaps +about a thousand feet high; the island is thinly wooded with small trees +which scarcely deserve the appellation of timber. + +No natives were seen but it was evident they had lately been upon the +island from the recent appearances of their fireplaces and the perfect +state of a hut, which was a more comfortable habitation than we have +usually found: it was arched over in the usual way, by twigs bent in the +form of a dome; and was neatly thatched with dry grass. No turtle marks +were noticed on the beach so that I should think this was not the season +for laying their eggs. + +August 8. + +We were detained at this anchorage from the unfavourable state of the +weather until the 8th, on which day we sailed and steered for Howick +Group on a direct and unimpeded course. The channel appeared equally free +on either side of the group; but as it was a material object, on account +of the unfavourable state of the weather, to make sure of reaching the +anchorage under Cape Flinders, we did not attempt to pass round the +northern side but steered through the strait between 2 and 3, and then +over our former track round Cape Melville. At six o'clock we anchored +under Cape Flinders. Between Point Barrow and Cape Melville I had an +opportunity of improving my chart with respect to the reefs in the +offing, and of observing the outer limit of the barrier reefs which were +distinguished by the heavy breakers that lined the horizon. On rounding +Cape Melville, the remarkable feature of which has been previously +described above, a pine-like tree was noticed growing on the summit of +the ridge: Mr. Cunningham thought it was the Araucaria excelsa; if his +conjecture was right this tree occupies a space of 900 miles of coast, +between 14 degrees 10 minutes and 29 degrees 30 minutes. It might however +have been a callitris. + +On passing round Cape Flinders the remains of the Frederick's wreck were +still seen scattered over the rocks but appeared much reduced in +quantity. + +August 9. + +Upon visiting it the next morning we observed evident proofs that some +ship had lately been there and taken away several of her principal spars; +and that a great portion of the smaller planks had been destroyed by the +natives' fires. We took the opportunity of collecting some iron-work and +teak planks, which afterwards proved more serviceable than we at the time +anticipated. + +Mr. Cunningham and Mr. Hunter walked about the island but did not meet +the natives. The traces both of men and dogs were so recent as to make us +conjecture they were at no great distance; but from our subsequent +knowledge of the inhabitants of these islands there is no doubt but that +they would have shown themselves had they known of our visit. Mr. +Cunningham also ascended a remarkably rugged-looking hill at the south +point of the bay on the east side of the island, which, from its +appearance, received several appropriate names from our people, such as +Mount Dreary and Mount Horrid. Mr. Cunningham calls it Rugged Mount, and +says, "it is thinly covered with a small variety of plants similar to +those of Cape Cleveland. This mount is a pile of rugged rocks, towered up +to a considerable elevation above the sea which washes its base: the +stones of the summit being of angular or conical forms (apparently +basaltic) whilst the general mass on the slopes or declivities are deeply +excavated, furnishing spacious retreats to the natives. I entered one of +the caverns (the walls of which were of a decomposing sandstone) having a +window formed in it by the falling down of a portion of the side rock. +The cave was a large natural chamber, capacious enough to hold +conveniently a large tribe of natives; who, from the numerous fireplaces, +broken turtle staffs, and other relics, had not very long since dwelt +there. I also found numerous fragments of quartzose rocks lying about and +pieces of a kind of marble, of a brown colour, were abundant in the +cavities, as well as upon the face of the mount." (Cunningham +manuscripts.) + +August 10. + +Upon leaving Cape Flinders we crossed Princess Charlotte's Bay and +steered at half to three-quarters of a mile within the reefs: soon after +noon it fell calm and we anchored under the lee of Pelican Island, and +landed upon it to examine an appearance of turtle marks on the sand; they +were however found to be of an old date. + +This island, which does not measure more than two-thirds of a mile in +circumference, is surrounded by a considerable reef and is remarkable for +two clumps of trees upon it, that, standing separately, give the +appearance at a distance of its being two distinct islets. It is, like +all the islets near it, little better than a sandy key. + +While I was employed in levelling the theodolite the gentlemen directed +their steps to a flight of pelicans that was seen collected upon the +beach; at their approach the old birds took wing and left their unfledged +young, to the number of eighteen or twenty, waddling about the sand, all +of which were killed and skinned before we embarked for the sake of their +white down. On the islet three very neatly-constructed natives' huts were +observed, that, from their appearance and the very recent state of the +fish-bones and turtle-shells scattered about, had been lately occupied. +The reef is of circular shape; the surface is formed principally of a +rotten, crumbling coral rock and was destitute of shells or any animal +production except the beche de mer: of which the black sort (batoo) +appeared the most abundant. + +Among the bearings obtained from this station was that of the highest +summit of Flinders' Group, which bore South 61 degrees 26 minutes East +(magnetic) and, as a connecting bearing, was of considerable importance +to the survey. + +August 11. + +The day was too far advanced to make further progress with any advantage; +we, therefore, remained until the following morning when we steered +North-North-West, but were soon impeded by a very extensive reef, m, that +crossed our course, trending to the North-East. Wishing to ascertain its +extent to seaward, as well as to pass round its windward side, we steered +along its south-eastern edge; and after proceeding for some time, first +in a North-East, then a North, and afterwards in a North-North-West +direction, found ourselves running through a narrow channel formed by +another considerable reef, l, to the eastward, and lying in a parallel +direction with m: the breadth of this pass, or channel, varied between +one and two miles. At nine o'clock, having run about ten miles, a break +appeared in the innermost reef, m, through which we made an attempt to +pass. As we approached it our soundings quickly decreased, yet still we +hoped to effect our object; but suddenly shoaling the water to five +fathoms, and at the next heave to ten feet and a half, with the coral +rocks almost grazing the vessel's bottom, the helm was put down; +fortunately she stayed and we escaped the danger. There was every +appearance of a termination of the reef a few miles further to the +north-east, but the glare of the sun was so deceptious that I preferred +returning by the way we came; and having a leading fresh wind, we were by +noon steering between the south-west end of the reef m and the woody +islands 2 and 3 of Claremont Isles. + +Between this and Cape Sidmouth several reefs were seen to seaward that we +had not noticed last year. In passing the cape we kept nearer to the +sandy islet 7 than before, and had not less water than seven fathoms. + +August 12. + +The next morning, having passed the night under Night Island, we resumed +our course and steered round Cape Direction, with the intention of +passing to windward of the long reef, f; but being prevented by its +extending too much to the eastward to allow of our weathering it we bore +up, and, passing to the eastward of Piper's Islands and of reef l, +anchored under Haggerston's Island. + +August 13. + +As I did not intend running farther than Sunday Island for my next +anchorage we did not weigh the following day until we had visited the +island and obtained a meridional altitude for its latitude and sights for +the time-keeper. It is about a mile and a half in circumference and forms +a high rock of steep ascent; its windward side is clothed with a stunted +brush, but the lee or north-west side is tolerably well wooded, and is +fronted by a sandy beach, on which the traces of natives' fireplaces, +scattered with fish-bones and turtle shells, were found in all +directions. A considerable coral-reef extends to the northward, having +some dry sandy keys at its north extremity. An extensive view of the +neighbouring reefs and islands was obtained from the summit, particularly +of the reefs n and o, and of the deep-water channel between them. + +August 14. + +Our next anchorage was under Sunday Island, and on the 14th we proceeded +outside the Bird Isles and between two coral reefs, v and w, that +appeared last year to be connected. Several reefs were also noticed to +seaward that had escaped our observation last year, but they are all of +small extent, and on the greater number there is a dry bank of sand which +on some is bare, whilst others are covered with bushes and small trees. + +As the day was too far advanced to permit us to pass round Cape York +before night we anchored in the afternoon under Cairncross Island and +spent the evening on shore. This island is low and wooded like the other +and is not more than a mile in circumference. It is thickly covered with +bushes and trees, among which Mr. Cunningham found a great many plants +that interested him, particularly the bulbous roots of a species of +pancratium, and some large specimens of Mimusops kauki in fruit, besides +which he observed a remarkable tree which he has described in his journal +by the name of Gueltarda octandra. "It is a strong luxuriant tree, having +a stem six feet diameter, whose base is much like the spurred bulb of a +tropical fig." (Cunningham manuscripts.) + +The island is situated at the north-west end of the reef which is two +miles and a half long and one mile broad, and composed like that of +Pelican Island, of dead coral hardened by the weather and cemented by its +own calcareous deposit into masses of compact rocks which, being heaped +up by the surf, form a key that probably the high-tide scarcely ever +covers. The interior is occupied by a shoal lagoon in which, although not +more than two feet deep, our people saw a great variety of fish, and +among them a shark five feet long, which, notwithstanding there was +scarcely sufficient water for it to float in, contrived to escape. A few +shells of the Voluta ethiopica and some clams (Chama gigas) were found, +but neither sort was plentiful. The natives, as appeared from their +traces, occasionally visit the island: our people found some deserted +turtles' nests, and Mr. Cunningham saw a pigeon that appeared to be new; +it was of large size and of black and white plumage: besides this no +other bird was seen. + +We now began for the first time to feel the effects of our accident at +Port Bowen, for the tide, setting against the wind, caused a short swell, +in which the cutter strained so much that she made two inches and a half +of water per hour. + +August 15. + +At noon the next day we rounded Cape York; and, as we had last year taken +the route to the northward of Wednesday Island, we now steered round the +south side of Prince of Wales Islands through Endeavour Strait. + +August 16. + +And passing the night under one of the Possession Islands, Number 2, the +next day reached Booby Island off which we anchored. On our course to the +westward of Cape Cornwall and across the line of shoals that extend from +it to Wallis Isles we had not less water than four fathoms. + +In the afternoon we landed on Booby Island and at night procured turtles, +and about a thousand eggs. + +On the summit of the island, or rather the rock, several piles of stones +were observed that had been heaped up by the crews of the various ships +passing by, as relics of their visit: among other notices of a similar +nature we found a board indicating the safe passage through the strait of +the ship Sea-Flower, which our logbook informed us left Port Jackson on +the 21st of last May; and from the memorandum on the board we found that +she took the outer passage, entered Torres Strait at Murray's Island, and +arrived off Booby Island, after a voyage of twenty-two days. + +A good opportunity was here offered, by comparing our voyage with that of +the Sea-Flower, of proving the superiority of the inshore route: the +Mermaid left Port Jackson on the 12th July, and passed Booby Island on +the 16th August, which is an interval of thirty-five days; from this +fifteen must be deducted for the delays occasioned by the survey; namely, +at Port Bowen two days, at Endeavour River nine days, at Lizard Island, +Cape Flinders, Haggerston's Island, and the Possession Islands, one day +each; this leaves twenty days for our passage, being two days shorter +than the Sea-Flower's. This comparison therefore is in favour of the +inshore route. But it is not only superior to the passage without the +reefs, from its being shorter, there are also other advantages: the +principal of which are that the weather is more generally fine; the sea +is always perfectly smooth; and wood or water may be procured upon +various parts of the coast: with only common attention there is no risk; +and however laboriously the day may be spent the night is passed without +disturbing the crew; for safe and good anchorage may be taken up every +night under the lee of an islet or a reef, which in the event of bad +weather may be retained as long as is requisite or convenient. No time is +lost by the delay, for the anchor may be dropped in the ship's immediate +track; and if the cargo consists of live animals such as horses, cattle, +or sheep, grass may be obtained for them from the islands near the +anchorage. + +In the outer passage the sea is strewed with numerous reefs, many yet +unknown,* which render the navigation at night extremely dangerous; and +if, on approaching the part where it is intended to enter the reefs, the +weather should be thick, and the sun too clouded at noon to procure an +observation for the latitude, the navigator is placed in a very anxious +and a very unenviable situation; for the currents are so strong that the +position of the ship is by no means sufficiently known to risk running to +leeward to make the reefs. The ensuing night must therefore in all +probability be passed in the greatest uncertainty and in the vicinity of +extensive coral reefs. + +(*Footnote. When this sheet was in the press an account was published in +one of the daily newspapers (Morning Herald 3rd of March 1825) recording +the discovery of some low coral islands and reefs by the ship Avon, +September 18, 1823, in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes South, longitude +158 degrees 6 minutes East.) + + + +CHAPTER 10. +Cross the Gulf of Carpentaria, and anchor at Goulburn's South Island. +Affair with the natives. +Resume the survey of the coast at Cassini Island. +Survey of Montagu Sound, York Sound, and Prince Frederic's Harbour. +Hunter's and Roe's Rivers, Port Nelson, Coronation Islands. +Transactions at Careening Bay. +Repair the cutter's bottom. +General geognostical and botanical observations. +Natives' huts. +Brunswick Bay. +Prince Regent's River. +Leave the coast in a leaky state. +Tryal Rocks, Cloates Island. +Pass round the west and south coasts. +Bass Strait. +Escape from shipwreck. +Botany Bay. +Arrival at Port Jackson. + +1820. August 17. + +We did not leave our anchorage off Booby Island until the next morning, +in order that we might obtain sights for the watches, and have the +advantage of daylight for passing over the position assigned to a shoal, +said to have been seen by the ship Aurora. After weighing we steered +West-South-West for sixty miles without seeing any signs of it; and on +this course our soundings very gradually increased to thirty fathoms. + +August 18 to 19. + +On our passage across the Gulf of Carpentaria we had very fine weather +but the horizon was enveloped in haze. The South-East monsoon was steady +but very light; and the wind during the day veered occasionally to +North-East, which might here be called a sea-breeze. + +August 19. + +On the 19th we passed Cape Wessel. Hence we steered for Goulburn Islands. + +August 21. + +And on the afternoon of the 21st anchored in South West Bay, off the +watering-place, which was running very slowly; a hole was dug to receive +the drainings. + +August 22. + +And the next morning we commenced operations, but, from the small supply +of water, our progress was very slow. + +The natives had not made their appearance, but knowing whom we had to +deal with, every precaution was taken to prevent surprise: an armed party +was stationed to protect the remainder of our people who were cutting +down the trees which grew immediately over the watering-place on the +brink of the cliff; and the officers and men were severally cautioned +against straying away from the shore party without taking the precaution +of carrying arms. + +Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham ranged about the island near our wooding +party; the former gentleman shot for us several birds, among which was a +white cockatoo that differed from the species that is common at Port +Jackson in being smaller and having a very small white crest or top-knot +without any yellow feathers in it: its mandibles and feet were white but +the feathers on the under part of the wings had the usual yellow tinge. + +Mr. Cunningham was successfully employed in adding to his collections, +but the dry season was so far advanced and the country so parched up that +everything bespoke the last season as having been unusually dry. + +August 23. + +On the following day, when our people resumed their occupation, they were +again cautioned not to trust to the apparent absence of the natives. In +the afternoon Mr. Roe walked along the beach with his gun in quest of +birds: on his way he met Mr. Hunter returning from a walk in which he had +encountered no recent signs of the Indians. This information emboldened +Mr. Roe to wander farther than was prudent, and in the mean time Mr. +Hunter returned to our party in order to go on board; he had however +scarcely reached our station when the report of a musket and Mr. Roe's +distant shouting were heard. The people immediately seized their arms and +hastened to his relief and by this prompt conduct probably saved his +life. + +It appeared that, after parting from Mr. Hunter, he left the beach and +pursued his walk among the trees; he had not proceeded more than fifty +yards when he fired at a bird: he was cautious enough to reload before he +moved from the spot in search of his game, but this was scarcely done +before a boomerang* whizzed past his head, and struck a tree close by +with great force. Upon looking round towards the verge of the cliff, +which was about twenty yards off, he saw several natives; who upon +finding they were discovered set up a loud and savage yell, and threw +another boomerang and several spears at him, all of which providentially +missed. Emboldened by their numbers and by his apparent defenceless +situation, they were following up the attack by a nearer approach, when +he fired amongst them, and for a moment stopped their advance. Mr. Roe's +next care was to reload, but to his extreme mortification and dismay he +found his cartouch box had turned round in the belt and every cartridge +had dropped out: being thus deprived of his ammunition, and having no +other resource left but to make his escape, he turned round and ran +towards the beach; at the same time shouting loudly to apprize our people +of his danger. He was now pursued by three of the natives, whilst the +rest ran along the cliff to cut off his retreat. + +(*Footnote. See Note above.) + +On his reaching the edge of the water, he found the sand so soft that at +every step his feet sunk three or four inches, which so distressed him +and impeded his progress that he must soon have fallen overpowered with +fatigue had not the sudden appearance of our people, at the same time +that it inspired him with fresh hopes of escape, arrested the progress of +the natives, who, after throwing two or three spears without effect, +stopped and gave him time to join our party, quite spent with the +extraordinary effort he had made to save his life. + +Whilst this event occurred I was employed on board in constructing my +rough chart, but upon Mr. Roe's being seen from the deck in the act of +running along the beach pursued by the Indians, I hastened on shore, +determined if possible to punish them for such unprovoked hostility. Upon +landing, Mr. Hunter, Mr. Roe, and one of the men joined me in pursuit of +the natives; but from our comparatively slow movements and our ignorance +of the country, we returned after an hour without having seen any signs +of them; in the evening before our people left off work we made another +circuitous walk, but with the same bad success. The natives had taken the +alarm and nothing more was seen of them during the remainder of our stay, +excepting the smokes of their fires which appeared over the trees at the +back of the island. + +Previous to this attack upon Mr. Roe the natives had probably been +following Mr. Hunter; and were doubtless deterred from attacking him by +witnessing the destructive effects of his gun among a flight of +cockatoos, five or six of which he brought away, and left as many more +hopping about the grass wounded and making the woods re-echo with their +screams. When Mr. Hunter parted from Mr. Roe the natives remained to +watch the latter gentleman; and no sooner had he discharged his gun, +which they found was of no use until it was reloaded, than they commenced +their attack; and from the known dexterity of the natives of this country +in throwing the spear it was not a little surprising that they missed him +so repeatedly. + +Before we embarked for the night I walked with Mr. Roe to the place where +he was attacked, in order to look for the spears that had been thrown at +him and for the cartridges he had lost; but as neither were found, we +were revengeful enough to hope that the natives would burn their fingers +with the powder, an event not at all unlikely to occur, from their +ignorance of the dangerous effect of placing the cartridges near the +fire, which they would be sure to do. + +During our visit we were fortunate in having very fine weather; and +although it was very hazy we did not experience that excessive heat +which, from the advanced state of the season, had been expected. The +thermometer ranged between 73 and 83 degrees; but the regularity and +strength of the sea-breezes tended materially to keep the air cool and +pleasant. + +August 25. + +On the 25th the gentlemen visited Sims' Island, where they found a +considerable quantity of fresh water in holes that had apparently been +dug for the purpose by the Malays. Among the insects which they brought +back with them was a very fine species of cimex; it was found in great +numbers upon the foliage of Hibiscus tiliaceus. + +In the evening we left the bay. + +August 26. + +And the next morning passed to the northward of New Year's Island in +order to avoid the calm weather which was experienced at the same season +last year. + +Off the entrance of Van Diemen's Gulf (Dundas Strait) we passed through +large quantities of sea sawdust, some of which was put into a bottle; and +when the process of putrefaction had taken place the substance sunk to +the bottom and coloured the water with a crimson tinge. + +1820. September 3. + +After passing the meridian of Cape Van Diemen our course was directed +towards Captain Baudin's Banc des Holothuries near Cape Bougainville; but +being impeded by calms and light winds did not reach it until the 3rd of +September, when we passed between its south-east extremity and Troughton +Island. Before dark we passed over the north extremity of the long reef +to the westward of Cape Bougainville. + +September 5. + +The following day at noon we were near Condillac Island, after which a +sea-breeze from the westward enabled us to pass Cape Voltaire, at which +point our last year's survey terminated. When we were within the Cape we +found an ebb-tide setting out of a bight, which trended deeply in to the +southward and appeared to be studded with rocky islands. This adverse +tide continued to run all the evening and prevented our reaching the +bottom; so that at sunset we dropped the anchor a few miles to the south +of Cape Voltaire. + +To the westward of this position we counted twenty-three islands, the +northernmost of which were supposed to be the Montalivet Isles of Baudin. +The whole have an uninteresting and rocky appearance but are not +altogether destitute of vegetation: a greenish tinge upon the nearest +islet saved them from being condemned as absolutely sterile. + +September 6. + +The next morning a boat visited the outer north-easternmost islet, named +in the chart Water Island, which was found to be as rocky in reality as +it was in appearance. It is formed of a hard granular quartzose +sandstone, of a bluish-gray colour; the basis is disposed in horizontal +strata but the surface is covered with large amorphous rocks of the same +character that have evidently been detached and heaped together by some +convulsion of nature: over these a shallow soil is sprinkled, which +nourishes our old acquaintance spinifex, and a variety of plants of which +Mr. Cunningham collected more than twenty distinct known genera. The +exposed surfaces of the rocks are coloured by the oxide of iron, which is +so generally the case upon the northern and north-western coasts that the +name of Red Coast might with some degree of propriety be applied to a +great portion of this continent. + +Mr. Hunter found a large quantity of bulbous-rooted plants; they proved +to be a liliaceous plant of the same species as those which we had before +found upon Sims' Island, the islands of Flinders' Group on the eastern +coast, and at Percy Island. + +A meridional altitude of the sun was obtained on the north side of the +island; and before we embarked the boat's crew found fresh water enough +to fill our barica: this was so unusual a discovery that the island was +complimented with a name which will serve rather to record the fact than +to distinguish it as a place where so important an article of refreshment +may be procured with certainty. In the rainy season a large quantity may +always be obtained from cisterns, or holes, which were observed naturally +formed upon the surface of the rocks. + +The marks of a turtle were noticed upon the beach; and near them was the +impression of a native's foot as well as the broken shells of some +turtles' eggs which had very recently been eaten. This discovery set the +boat's crew on the search for other nests but they were unsuccessful. + +An extensive view of the surrounding islands was obtained from its +summit, as well as a set of bearings for the survey of this Sound, which +was named at Mr. Hunter's request after Robert Montagu, Esquire, Admiral +of the White. + +A sea-breeze set in before we left the island: upon arriving on board we +got underweigh and at four o'clock anchored near the bottom of the bay +(Swift's Bay) in the entrance of a strait separating Kater's Island from +the main. + +In the evening we landed upon the south-east end of Kater's Island and +found it to be in character, both geologically and botanically, very +similar to Water Island; excepting that there was more vegetation upon it +in the shape of shrubs and trees. The surface of the ground was covered +by spinifex, which rendered our walking both difficult and painful; this +plant diffuses a strong aromatic odour, which quality it possesses, as it +were, to counterbalance the annoying effects of its prickly foliage. + +September 7. + +The next day Mr. Bedwell examined a small inlet at the bottom of the bay. +It proved to be merely a salt-water creek bounded by rocks and mangroves. +Traces of natives were observed; and he brought on board with him the +remains of a fish-pot, nine feet long, made of strips of Flagellaria +indica, but so imperfect and disfigured that we could not readily +convince ourselves either of its particular construction or use. In the +evening we found a few gallons of water in a hollow near the beach upon +the south shore of the strait. During Mr. Bedwell's absence a hot +land-wind from South-East sprung up and raised the temperature to 90 +degrees. + +The peculiar verdure of the vegetation in all parts hereabout was a proof +that this part of the country had suffered less from drought than the +coast to the eastward. The traces of a small species of kangaroo were +found in every part but our appearance had frightened them away. The food +of this animal appeared to be principally the seeds and leaves of an +acacia which they reach easily from the rocks. + +Mr. Cunningham, who was as usual most indefatigable in adding to his +collection, observed one of the large nests that have been so frequently +before described. It was six feet in diameter, formed principally of +sticks, among which was found a piece of bamboo about five feet long, +that had evidently been cut at its extremities by a sharp-edged tool, +probably by the Malays. Whatever the inhabitant of this nest might have +been it was doubtless a bird of considerable size and power to have +transported a stick of such a length. + +September 8. + +The next morning after Mr. Roe had sounded the strait that separates +Kater's Island from the main we got underweigh and passed through it; and +then rounding a high island named after Dr. W.H. Wollaston, we steered to +the westward through a group of islets which were too numerous to be +correctly placed in a running survey. To the westward of Wollaston Island +is a deep bay which, from the broken appearance of the coast at the back, +there is some reason to think may prove the embouchure of a small +rivulet; but as it was not of sufficient importance to cause delay it was +passed with the appellation of Mudge Bay. In the evening we anchored off +an island named on account of the peculiar shape of a rock near the beach +Capstan Island; and as it wanted yet an hour to sunset we landed and +ascended the summit which, from its very rugged ascent, was no easy task. +A view however from this elevated station, and an amplitude of the +setting sun, repaid me for my trouble; and Mr. Cunningham increased his +collection by the addition of some interesting plants and a few papers of +seeds. + +The distance that the French expedition kept from this part of the coast, +of which M. De Freycinet so often and so justly complains, prevented it +from ascertaining the detail of its shores: in fact very few parts of it +were seen at all. Commodore Baudin's Cape Chateaurenaud must be some low +island which we did not see, unless it was the outermost of our Prudhoe +Islands. + +Montagu Sound is bounded on the west by an island of considerable size +which was named in compliment to John Thomas Bigge, Esquire, his +Majesty's late Commissioner of Inquiry into the state of the colony of +New South Wales. Bigge Island is separated from the main by a strait +named after the Reverend Thomas Hobbes Scott, now Archdeacon of New South +Wales, formerly Secretary to the above commission. + +September 9. + +The next morning we steered through Scott's Strait but not without +running much risk on account of the muddy state of the water, and from +the rocky nature of its channel. It was however passed without accident; +but as the tide prevented our doubling Cape Pond the anchor was dropped, +and the evening spent on shore upon a rocky island that fronts the Cape, +from the summit of which an extensive set of bearings was taken. The land +was observed to trend in very deeply to the southward of Cape Pond and +the western horizon was bounded by a range of islands on which were two +hills of sugarloaf form. This island, like Capstan Island, is a heap of +sandstone rocks, clothed with the usual quantity of spinifex and small +shrubs. A path of the natives was observed winding among the grass and on +the beach were the marks of feet. The tide fell whilst we were on shore +twenty-two feet. + +September 10. + +The next morning we steered round Cape Pond and entered the opening; but, +the wind being contrary, we did not reach farther than Anderdon's +Islands, where the night was passed. + +September 11. + +The next day we took advantage of the flood-tide and before high water +anchored where the depth at low water was three fathoms. The tide +subsequently rose twenty-eight feet. + +We were now at the bottom of a very extensive harbour bounded by bold and +irregular ranges of precipitous rocky hills, particularly on its eastern +side, where three or four peaks were noticed, among which were Manning +Peak and Mount Anderdon. Under these hills was the mouth of a large +opening; and to the eastward of the anchorage we observed another of +greater size but not so interesting in its appearance as the former. + +The country hereabout, although equally rocky and rugged, is more wooded +than that to the north-east; and from the number of fires that were +burning there is reason to suppose it is more populous. We therefore +prepared to examine the two openings in view, with sanguine expectations +of finding something to repay us for the numerous disappointments we had +already encountered. + +September 12. + +And the next morning Mr. Hunter accompanied me to explore the opening +under Manning Peak whilst Mr. Roe and Mr. Cunningham embarked in another +boat to examine the river that falls into the bottom of the bay. + +After landing at the entrance of the opening we proceeded up a +considerable reach, bounded on either side by precipitous rocks, in some +parts from two to three hundred feet in height. This reach extends four +miles; and being from five to seven fathoms deep, and more than half a +mile wide, forms an excellent port: half way up on the north side is a +wide inlet; probably the embouchure of a mountain stream, for it appeared +to wind under the base of Manning Peak. We landed in many parts on search +of fresh water but were on all occasions unsuccessful. At the end of this +reach the river, for such it now appeared to be, gradually narrowed and +wound with a more serpentine course under the base of the hills which +still continued to be rugged and steep; but the banks were now thickly +lined by mangroves, whereas in the first or sea reach they are formed +principally of large rounded masses of rock that had been detached from +the summits of the overhanging hills by the effect of the cascades, some +of which must have fallen from a height of 200 feet without interruption +in their descent. During the rainy season it would be dangerous to expose +a vessel to the strength of the freshes in this river. + +At the distance of six miles from the end of the first reach we arrived +at the termination of the river where its width was not more than +twenty-five yards. Here its bed was blocked up by large water-worn masses +of sandstone and, as the boat could not proceed farther, we landed to +await the turn of the tide. + +About a mile below this part we had unexpectedly found a spring of fresh +water bubbling up among the mangroves and yielding a very considerable +quantity: whilst we were examining it the tide was nearly up so that we +had only time to fill our barica and kettle before the salt water flowed +over and mixed with it. + +During our detention here we ascended the hills over the landing-place to +examine the country; but on reaching the top after a rugged and difficult +walk, higher hills obstructed our view in every direction. The bed of the +river appeared to continue for some distance through a deep gully formed +by precipitous hills. In the wet season this is doubtless a very +considerable stream; and then perhaps the water is fresh as low as the +upper part of the first reach. At this time the holes in the rocks were +filled with fresh water but the tide flowed up as far as it was navigable +for our boat. The trees on the tops and sides of the hills had lately +been burned: in the shady parts however near the water, the shore was +lined with several plants which had escaped destruction; among them was a +species of nutmeg (Myristica insipida, Brown), a tree of twenty-five feet +high (Maba laurina, Brown), and on the top of the hills and shelving +places halfway down were observed several coniferous trees that resembled +the Callitris ventenat, or Australian cypress, which grows in the +interior of the colony at Port Jackson: they were at this season in +fruit. + +A steep peaked hill near our landing-place was named Donkin's Hill after +the inventor of the preserved meats; upon a canister of which our party +dined. This invention is now so generally known that its merits do not +require to be recorded here; we had lately used a case that was preserved +in 1814 which was equally good with some that had been packed up in 1818. +This was the first time it had been employed upon our boat excursions and +the result fully answered every expectation, as it prevented that +excessive and distressing thirst from which, in all other previous +expeditions, we had suffered very much. + +On our return we landed at the spring. The tide had covered it; but upon +searching another was found farther back among the mangroves, supplying +at the rate of two to three gallons a minute; a discovery so valuable +that the river was thought worthy of a name and it was called after my +companion Mr. Hunter, who shared my pleasure in the gratification of +finding what we had hitherto thought, at this season, totally wanting +near the coast. + +No signs of natives were observed, unless the country, having been lately +fired, might indicate their having been in these parts; but, from the +very rugged nature of the hills, it is not probable they frequent the +neighbourhood of the river. + +Kangaroos' tracks were seen and a small opossum observed skipping about +the rocks. On our return down the river we landed on several parts where +the depth of the gullies and the verdure of the trees indicated a +probability of our finding fresh water, but in vain; not a drop was +obtained. + +On returning we were left by the ebbing tide upon a bank of mud; being +however near low water, we had only to exercise our patience for two +hours. We reached the vessel by eleven o'clock at night. + +Mr. Roe did not return until sunset of the following day from his +examination of the river which falls into the bottom of the port. When he +left the cutter he pulled to a hill at the entrance of the river, which +had been pointed out to him as probably affording an easy ascent and from +which he would obtain a commanding view of the country to guide his +proceedings. From this elevation the country around appeared to be very +stony and barren, although he fancied there was some approach towards +improvement; the banks of the river were low and lined with mangroves and +intersected by many small saltwater inlets extending through the low +country to the foot of the back hills; at low water the shore is fronted +by a bank of mud, ten or twelve yards wide, and so soft as to prevent +landing. Whilst he was employed at the summit of the hill in taking +bearings, twelve natives with two dogs made their appearance on the +opposite shore which was separated from the hill on which Mr. Roe landed +by a soft mud flat. The natives attempted to cross to him, shouting +loudly as they advanced, but when halfway over they desisted and slowly +returned. When Mr. Roe descended he perceived several fresh prints of the +human foot on the mud, from which he supposed that there were already +some natives upon the island. There were several large fires burning in +various directions and one was kindled by the natives on the opposite +bank.* + +(*Footnote. The natives of this part were seen by Tasman, according to +the following note of Burgomaster Witsen, as published in Mr. Dalrymple's +Papua. "In 14 degrees 58 minutes South, longitude 138 degrees 59 minutes +(about 125 degrees East) the people are savage, and go naked: none can +understand them.") + +A snake about seven feet long was the only animal our party saw, but the +dung of the kangaroo was as usual plentifully spread in all directions. + +From this station, which was seven miles from the mouth, they followed +the course of the river, first on an easterly direction for ten miles, +and then it took a sudden turn to the southward and trended alternately +South by East and South by West for fifteen miles; at this part the river +was upwards of seventy yards wide; the banks were lined with mangroves +but the rocks rose precipitously behind them to the height of three +hundred feet. Here our party landed to pass the night, and before dark +Mr. Roe and his companion Mr. Cunningham with one of the boat's crew +climbed the ridge over their heads but encountered much difficulty before +they reached the summit, from which they could discover nothing but +ridges beyond ridges of rocky wooded hills, precisely similar to what +they were upon. One higher than the rest was discerned about ten miles +off to the eastward. No signs of human beings were noticed. + +The top of the hill was strewed about with ant-hills constructed of dry +dusty sand, and this was the only substance that could be called soil; +but notwithstanding all this sterility there were trees of the eucalyptus +family growing from twenty to forty feet high; and one was measured whose +diameter was as much as eighteen inches. + +The rocks are of sandstone, in nearly horizontal strata, coated with a +crust of crystallized quartz and coloured by a ferruginous oxide. + +On their return to the tent they made preparations to pass the night; and +as it was prudent, if possible, to keep the boat afloat, one of the men +was stationed in her for that purpose; but, overpowered by fatigue, he +fell asleep and the boat in a short time was left dry upon the mud; the +party on shore were continually disturbed during the night by what was +thought to be the rushing of alligators into the water beneath them, but +the noise was probably occasioned by stones and lumps of mud falling into +it as the tide ebbed; a splash, however, that they heard on the opposite +side was very likely an alligator, for they had seen one swimming as they +pulled up the river. On hearing this Mr. Roe became very much alarmed on +account of the boat-keeper, but no pains to apprize him of his danger had +any effect: the only reply that could be got from him was, "Damn the +alligators," and the next moment he was asleep again; fortunately for him +no alligator came near enough to make him repent his foolhardy +insensibility. + +The width of the stream at low water, which was quite salt, was not more +than twenty-five feet. When the flood commenced it came in so rapidly +that the water rose five feet in ten minutes: altogether it rose +twenty-four feet; but driftwood and dead branches of trees were noticed +among the rocks at least fourteen feet above the ordinary high-water +mark, indicating, at other seasons, the frequency of strong freshes or +floods. One of the pieces of driftwood had been cut by a sharp +instrument. + +Mr. Roe further says, "From the appearance of the country and the steep +hills, generally about three hundred feet high, among which this river +winds, there can be little doubt of its being, during the rainy season, a +considerable fresh-water stream; and as I consider the length of its +various windings to be twenty-six or twenty-seven miles, there is every +prospect of its being navigable for our boat for at least half that +distance farther. Fish were plentiful, but principally of that sort which +the sailors call cat fish; of these several were caught. Small birds were +numerous, together with white cockatoos, cuckoos, some birds with very +hoarse discordant notes, and one whose note resembled the beating of a +blacksmith's hammer upon an anvil. At daybreak they all exerted +themselves in full chorus, and I should then have proceeded farther, but +the tide was half out, and a soft mud-bank forty feet broad fronting the +shore cut off our communication with the boat." + +As soon as the ebb-tide began to make Mr. Roe embarked on his return; and +during his passage down saw as many as twelve alligators. Two were fired +at but the balls glanced off their tough coats of mail without hurting or +scarcely frightening them. A small trickling of water was noticed among +the rocks, which they found to be fresh but in too small a quantity to be +of any use. The boat was six hours and a half pulling down although for +the first five hours the tide was favourable. + +The river was named after the rector of Newbury, the reverend father of +my zealous and diligent assistant Mr. Roe. It appears to be a very +considerable stream and, as Mr. Roe justly observes, in the rainy season +or at any other time of the year than during the months of September and +October, which terminate the dry season, will doubtless afford a large +quantity of fresh water. + +The opportunity that offered in Hunter's River of filling our water-casks +was not to be lost. + +September 14. + +And the day after the boat returned from the examination of Roe's River +the cutter was moved to an anchorage about half way up the first or sea +reach of Hunter's River. + +September 15. + +And the next morning before daylight the boats were despatched; but owing +to the darkness of the morning and the ebb-tide having left the shores +dry and almost inaccessible, from the quantity of mud that lined them, +they did not reach the spring until late in the day. In the mean time, +however, they contrived to wade through the mud to the shore; and then +explored the bed of the river for half a mile beyond where our previous +examination terminated. + +In this space they passed several pools of fresh water which, in some +parts, was running over a pebbly bottom; but the supply was so trifling +as to be not sufficient to alter the taste of the seawater. + +Our gentlemen described the country to be as destitute of soil as we had +found it lower down; and so rugged as to be scarcely passable. The ravine +is formed by precipitous rocks of sandstone rising perpendicularly on +both sides to the height of two hundred feet, here and there lightly +sprinkled with a few shrubs which had lately been burnt. + +Some of our party thought they saw both an emu and a black swan amongst +the bushes on the banks of the river. In some parts of the north coast we +have certainly noticed marks on the sand like the impressions of an emu's +foot, but as we have never seen the bird it is probable that we have +mistaken them for the traces of the Ardea antigone. Black swans we have +never seen at all within the tropic and it is equally likely that in this +instance we may have also been deceived by the appearance of a bird of +similar size and plumage. On the return of the boat two alligators swam +past it. + +September 19. + +After completing our water we left the river; but owing to light winds +did not succeed in getting out of the harbour until the following +morning. Its examination had been performed as narrowly as time and +circumstances admitted: it is of considerable size and in most parts +offers good and secure anchorage; with abundance of wood for fuel and +perhaps always water of good quality. Its western side was very +indistinctly seen; and it was thought probable from appearances that, in +the space between Cape Pond and Anderdon Islands, there are perhaps two +or three small mountain streams. + +The harbour was called Prince Frederic's, and the sound that fronts it +York Sound, in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of York. + +September 20. + +After passing Point Hardy we entered a fine harbour bounded on the west +by a group of islands, and on the east by the projection of land that +forms the western side of Prince Frederic's Harbour. The flood-tide was +not sufficient to carry us to the bottom so that we anchored off the east +end of the southernmost island of the group; which on the occasion of the +anniversary of the late king's coronation was subsequently called the +Coronation Islands. The harbour was called Port Nelson, and a high rocky +hill that was distinguished over the land to the southward received the +name of Mount Trafalgar. + +Notwithstanding we had constantly experienced since the period of our +leaving the east coast both fine weather and smooth water, yet the leaky +state of the vessel had been gradually increasing; leading me to fear +that the injury received at Port Bowen had been much more serious than we +had then contemplated. Having the advantage of smooth water and a fair +wind during our passage up the east coast, the damage had not shown +itself until we reached Cairncross Island: after this it was occasionally +observed, but with more or less effect according to the strength and the +direction of the wind and the state of the sea. At the anchorage off +Booby Island, being exposed to a swell, she made four inches of water in +an hour; but during the examination of Montagu Sound and the harbour we +last left it did not show at all: upon leaving Hunter's River and working +against a fresh sea-breeze, the leak gained more than three inches in the +hour; and in passing round Cape Torrens, the vessel being pressed down in +the water from the freshness of the sea-breeze, it gained as much as nine +inches in one hour and twenty minutes. + +From the alarming increase of the leak it became absolutely necessary to +ascertain the full extent of the damage, in order that we might, if +possible, repair it, so as not to prevent the further prosecution of the +voyage, or at least to ensure our return to Port Jackson. + +We were fortunately upon a part of the coast where the tides had a +sufficient rise and fall to enable us to lay her on shore without +difficulty; but the beaches in York Sound and Prince Frederic's Harbour +were all too steep for the purpose. + +September 21. + +The spring tides were now at hand; and, it being on this account very +important that it should be done as speedily as possible, I left the +cutter the following morning in search of a convenient place, in which I +was fortunately very soon successful; for at the bottom of the port in +which we had anchored we landed on the sandy beach of a bay which, to my +inexpressible satisfaction, was found in every way suitable for the +object we had in view. Deferring therefore any further examination for a +more convenient opportunity, I hastened on board and in the course of the +morning anchored the cutter close to the beach. + +It has been already stated that the construction of the Mermaid was +rather sharp, so that it was necessary to land everything before it would +be safe to lay her on the ground: her masts were therefore struck and the +sails, being sent on shore, were suspended to trees and converted into +tents for the preservation of our provisions and stores and for +habitations for the officers and crew. + +Our anchorage was four hundred yards distant from the beach; which, since +the vessel took the ground at low water, was as near as we could +prudently approach it but sufficiently close to protect our property from +the natives until everything was landed. None had as yet appeared, but, +the country having been lately fired, and the impression of a man's foot +having been noticed on the sand when we landed in the morning, gave +evident proofs that they were not far off. On the beach were the remains +of several huts; but they did not appear to have been recently occupied: +in order however to avoid surprise or loss, the stores and provisions +that had been landed in the evening were placed at a distance from the +grass and trees and covered over with a sail: near this pile our +four-pounder was planted, loaded with musket balls, ready to be fired at +a moment's warning. + +Having thus taken all possible precaution our people returned on board to +pass the night. My anxiety however prevented my retiring to bed so early +and I continued watching our property in the momentary expectation of +something occurring. The moon was fortunately at her full and shone +sufficiently bright to enable me to distinguish any moving object near +the tent. At eight o'clock a light was suddenly observed on the summit of +the hill that rises over the beach; but after being stationary for ten +minutes it disappeared: at first it was thought to be a native's fire; +and afterwards it was suspected to be occasioned by an insect. At +midnight, as the light had not again been seen, I retired to rest, +leaving a watch on the deck to give alarm should anything occur; but in +less than an hour was disturbed by the cry, "The tent's on fire!" On +reaching the deck I found the alarm had not been made without reason, for +a flame was actually blazing close to them. + +At the first appearance of the flames two muskets were fired in the +direction of them and our people were immediately landed. On reaching the +tent everything was secure and quiet but the fire was still burning at +about twenty yards behind it. Having cautiously approached it we found +our fears had been groundless and that they were occasioned by no less +innocent an enemy than a half-consumed log of wood, in the heart of which +a fire had been lying dormant for some days, having been lighted by the +fires which had lately passed over the country; it had been fanned into a +flame by the land-breeze which sprung up at midnight. The light seen in +the early part of the night originated, most likely, from a similar +cause; so that we returned to the vessel without further apprehension. + +September 22. + +The following day all our wet and dry provisions, our wood and guns were +landed; and the greater number of the crew slept on shore. + +A discovery of great importance was this day made which enabled us to +carry on our operations with much greater facility and comfort; this was +our finding near the tents some deep holes containing a great abundance +of excellent water; so that by emptying our water-casks we avoided the +trouble and delay of hoisting them out: our operations were in +consequence so much expedited that the next morning at high tide the +vessel was warped and secured as far up the beach as the water would +allow, preparatory to her taking the ground, which event we awaited with +considerable anxiety. + +When the tide left her dry we proceeded to examine her bottom, and having +stripped the copper off the stern-post, the full extent of the injury she +had sustained was detected and found to be greater even than our fears +had anticipated. + +September 22 to 28. + +The after-part of the keel was rent for two feet in an horizontal +direction and its connexion with the stern-post and garboard streak so +much weakened that, at the first impression, there was every reason to +fear we could not remedy the defects sufficiently to ensure even an +immediate return to Port Jackson; but when the full extent of our means +were considered it was thought not only possible to repair the injury, +but to do it so effectually as to permit our completing the voyage +according to our original intention. + +As it now appeared certain that some considerable time must elapse before +we could reload the cutter, she was secured at the next tide in a +situation nearer the high-water mark. At low water a deep hole was dug +under her bottom, to enable the carpenter to work with his auger; and +this operation was necessarily renewed every tide, since the hole was +always found filled up after the high water. An armourer's forge and +tools were now much wanted but the deficiency of an anvil was supplied by +the substitution of a pig of ballast; and some chain plates that we had +fortunately taken from the Frederick's wreck, and some bar-iron which was +brought out from England by the Dromedary, enabled us to place our vessel +in a state of security which we were by no means in before. + +In order to connect the keel and stern-post, both of which were almost +separated from the frame of the vessel, two bolts, each twenty-four +inches long, were driven up obliquely through the keel and two of the +same size horizontally through the stern-post into the dead wood; besides +which they were also united by a stout iron brace which was fitted under +the keel and up each side of the stern-post; by which method the injury +appeared to be so well repaired that we had no fears for our safety if +the weather should be but moderately fine. + +September 28. + +These repairs were completed by the 28th but, just as we were +congratulating ourselves upon having performed them, a fresh defect was +discovered which threatened more alarming consequences even than the +other: upon stripping off some sheets of copper, the spike nails which +fastened the planks were found to be decaying; and many were so entirely +decomposed by oxidation that a straw was easily thrust through the vacant +holes. As we had not nails enough to replace the copper, for that was now +our only security, we could not venture to remove more than a few sheets +from those parts which appeared to be the most suspicious, under all of +which we found the nails so defective that we had reason to fear we might +start some planks before we reached Port Jackson, the consequence of +which would unquestionably be fatal to the vessel and our lives. All that +we could do to remedy the defect was to caulk the water-ways and counter, +and to nail an additional streak of copper a foot higher than before. +This further temporary repair was finished by the 30th. + +1820. October 5. + +But we were detained until the 5th of October before the tide rose high +enough to float the cutter. + +During the time that the carpenter was thus occupied all the crew were +employed either in assisting him or in cutting wood and filling water; so +that I had no opportunity either of visiting the surrounding islands or +of examining the country in the vicinity of the bay: but when the repairs +were completed and the people were more at leisure I made an excursion as +far as Bat Island, off Cape Brewster. + +From the summit of this island a set of bearings was obtained, +particularly of the islands to the northward and westward. The ascent, on +account of its steep and rugged nature, was very difficult and even +dangerous, for the stones were so loose and decomposed that no solid +footing could be found. The top of the rock is covered with a thick brush +of Acacia leucophoea (of Lacrosse Island) many trees of which were +obliged to be cut down or cleared away before the various objects could +be seen from the theodolite. Mr. Cunningham collected here specimens of +eighteen different sorts of plants. + +Bat Island is a mass of sandstone superincumbent upon a quartzose basis +and intersected by nearly vertical veins of white quartz, the surface of +which was in a crystallized state. The floor of the cavern was covered +with heaps of water-worn fragments of quartzose rock, containing copper +pyrites, in some of which the cavities were covered by a deposit of +greenish calcedony. The sides of the cavern had a stalagmitical +appearance but the recess was so dark that we could not ascertain either +its formation or extent; it did not however appear to be more than twelve +or fourteen yards deep. On first entering it we were nearly overpowered +by a strong sulphureous smell which was soon accounted for by the flight +of an incredible number of small bats which were roosting in the bottom +of the cave and had been disturbed by our approach. We attempted to grope +our way to the bottom, but, not having a light, were soon obliged to give +up its further examination. + +The island is connected to the cape by a narrow ridge of rocks which the +spring-tides may probably cover. The main corresponds with the island in +character and general conformation, being extremely barren and rocky, and +of the same description of sandstone, the strata of which appear nearly +horizontal; the greatest deviation from that position not being more than +an inclination of 5 degrees to the south-east. + +Upon our return we landed at Caper Point near the bottom of the bay; +where, on taking some bearings, a considerable local magnetic attraction +was detected, for the needle of the theodolite was nearly eight degrees +in error. Whilst I was thus employed Mr. Cunningham, who was my companion +upon this excursion, ranged about among the shrubs in the vicinity and +was fortunate in finding the fruit of a tree that was first seen by us at +Cambridge Gulf, and had for some time puzzled us from its immense size +and peculiar appearance. It proved to be a tree of the natural order +Capparides, and was thought to be a capparis; the gouty habit of the +stem, which was soft and spongy, gave it an appearance of disease: but as +all the specimens, from the youngest plant to the full-grown tree, +possessed the same deformed appearance, it was evidently the peculiarity +of its habit. The stem of the largest of these trees measured twenty-nine +feet in girth whilst its height did not exceed twenty-five feet. "It was +at this time in the earliest stages of foliation, the extremities of the +naked branches appearing green; and one bud that was opened exhibited the +character of Folium quinatum."* One of these trees has been introduced in +the view of the encampment at Careening Bay. It bore some resemblance to +the adansonia figured in the account of Captain Tuckey's expedition to +the Congo. + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +The only quadruped that was seen upon this excursion was a small opossum +which appeared to be the same animal that the colonists at Port Jackson +call the native cat: its colour was light red with small white spots. + +The principal object of my investigation was to find an opening in the +bottom of the bay communicating with a large sheet of water that we had +seen from the hills to the southward; but as we were not successful in +finding any it was supposed that its communication with the sea must be +to the westward of Cape Brewster. Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham had +previously made an excursion in that direction to the summit of a hill, +named by the latter gentleman after Thomas Andrew Knight, Esquire, the +President of the Horticultural Society. From this elevation they had a +good view of the water which appeared to be either a strait or an inlet +of considerable size; it was subsequently called Rothsay Water. The +country between it and our encampment was very rocky and rugged; but +although almost destitute of soil it was sprinkled with some dwarf timber +of various descriptions; and, had it not been for the late fires, there +would have been a good share of grass. + +The fires were still burning; and while we were employed upon the vessel +the little grass that had before escaped the flames was consumed before +our eyes, which greatly increased the oppressive heat we were +experiencing. The thermometer during the day, exposed to a current of air +and shaded from the sun, generally indicated a temperature of between 94 +and 98 degrees; and on one occasion although it was exposed to a fresh +sea-breeze the mercury stood at 101 degrees at noon: at night however we +were usually relieved by its falling to 75 degrees; and at two o'clock in +the morning it generally stood at 73 degrees. The maximum and minimum +temperature during fourteen days was 101 degrees and 72 1/2 degrees. The +daily range of the thermometer was as much as 20 degrees, while the +mercury on board did not rise or fall more than 3 or 4 degrees. This +great difference is to be attributed to the cooling power of the dew +which was precipitated most copiously every night upon the surface of the +earth; whilst the water, not being so easily affected by this nightly +radiation, took so much longer to cool. In the daytime the reverse took +place; for the earth being much more heated by the action of the sun's +rays than the water, the temperature on shore was much greater than on +the sea. + +We had no thermometer with us that could measure the heat of the sand +upon which our tents were erected. Mr. Hunter placed his +pocket-thermometer in it but the mercury reaching the top of the tube, +which was graduated to 130 degrees, he was obliged to withdraw it to +preserve the instrument from being damaged. On one occasion we had a hot +land-wind from the South-East that veered round as the day advanced to +North-East, during which the thermometer stood at 96 degrees; generally +however we had a fresh sea-breeze from the north-west, with clear and +fine weather; but towards the latter part of our visit we had some very +cloudy dull days and a few showers of rain: this change hurried my +departure; and we considered ourselves fortunate in embarking our +provisions and bread without getting them wetted. + +On the 5th, after two ineffectual attempts to heave the cutter off the +ground, she floated. + +October 8. + +And by the 8th, everything being embarked, we made preparations to quit +this place which had afforded us the means of repairing our damage and +stopping for the present the progress of an injury which had been every +day assuming a more serious aspect. + +The country in the vicinity of the bay which, from the use we made of it, +was called Careening Bay, is only slightly covered with a poor, stony +soil; but notwithstanding this drawback the hills are well wooded and +vegetation so abundant that, had it not been for the conflagration which +has lately spoiled the trees of their leaves, the country would have +appeared pleasing and verdant. + +The following is a list of some of the trees indigenous to the shores and +neighbourhood of Careening Bay, for which I am indebted to Mr. +Cunningham:-- + +COLUMN 1: NATURAL ORDER NAME. +COLUMN 2: LINNAEAN SYSTEM NAME. +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH NAME. +COLUMN 4: QUALITY OF THE WOOD. +COLUMN 5: HEIGHT OF TREE IN FEET. +COLUMN 6: DIAMETER OF TREE IN INCHES. + +Leguminosae : Bauhinia microphylla. Cunn. manuscripts : Mountain Ebony : +Hard, coarse grain, wet, black-heart : 10 to 20 : 5 to 8. + +Mimoseae : Inga, sp. : Acacia-podded Inga : Unknown : 12 to 25 : 4 to 5. + +Sterculiaceae : Sterculia, sp. : Variegated-flowered Sterculia : Soft and +spongy : 12 to 20 : 4 to 6. + +Oleinae : Chionanthus axillaris. Brown : Axillary-flowering Fringe Tree : +Unknown : 10 to 15 : 4. + +Oleinae : Olea paniculata. Brown : Panicled-flowering Olive : Unknown : +15 to 25 : 6 to 8. + +Rhamneae : Zizyphus, sp. : Australian Jujube : Close grain, wood white : +10 to 30 : 4 to 16. + +Proteaceae : Hakea arborescens. Brown : Tree Hakea : Like Eucalyptus, +hard and heavy : 15 : 4 to 6. + +Ebenaceae : Maba laurina. Brown : Laurel-leaved Date-plum : Soft, white +wood, sap yellow : 10 to 20 : 4 to 6. + +Malvaceae : Hibiscus tiliaceus. L. : Lime Tree-leaved Hibiscus : Brown +wood, moderately hard : 10 to 25 : 4 to 8. + +Santalaceae : Exocarpus latifolia. Brown : Tropical Native Cherry : Hard, +white wood, bark green : 10 to 15 : 4 to 6. + +Myrtaceae : Eucalyptus, sp. : Small-flowering Gum : Moderately hard, but +useless for mechanical purposes : 20 to 35 : 18. + +Myrtaceae : Eucalyptus, sp. : Large-fruited Gum : Moderately hard, but +useless for mechanical purposes : 20 to 35 : 18. + +Verbenaceae : Vitex. sp. allied to glabrata. Brown : - : Unknown : 20 to +25 : 6. + +Capparides : Capparis sp. (?) : Gouty-stemmed Capparis : Soft, spongy, +and full of sap : 30 : 9 feet. + +Cycadeae : Cycas media. Brown : Australian Cycas, or Sago Palm : Fibrous +and coarse, similar to Palm : 4 to 15 : 4 to 6. + +Sapoteae : Mimusops parvifolia. Brown : Small-leaved Zapadilla : Close +grain : 10 to 15 : 4 to 5. + +Meliaceae : Carapa, sp. closely related to molluccensis. Lam. : Maritime +Carapa : Soft and brittle (a mangrove) : 25 : 6. + +"From the summit of the ridge," says Mr. Cunningham, "immediately above +Careening Bay, the country continues in a series of barren, stony hills +of ordinary elevation, divided by small valleys equally sterile and +rugged; clothed, nevertheless, with small trees of a stunted growth, and +of species common to the bay of our encampment; nor was there remarked +the least change in the habit or state of fructification of the several +plants, throughout the whole space of an estimated distance of six miles +south of the tents. + +"The summits of the hills are, for the most part, very rocky and bare of +soil; and that of the valleys, or lower lands, appeared very shallow, of +a reddish colour, and of a very poor, hungry nature. The rocks, with +which the ground is very generally covered, are of the same sort of +sandstone as is found upon the hills above the encampment; but among them +we observed a good deal of quartz, remarkable for its purity, of which +some specimens were observed in a crystallized state." + +"In the season that succeeds that of the rains, the hills are covered +with a lofty, reedy grass, whose dead stalks now form a matted stubble +among the trees, as was remarked on some patches of the lower lands that +had escaped the conflagrations, which at this period are extending their +ravages far and wide. Several well-worn watercourses, long since dry, +were crossed in the route, and, having the descent to the westward, show +at what point their waters, during the rainy season, make their exit. + +"No quadrupeds were seen upon this excursion, and only the usual +indications of kangaroos: a few birds were observed on the wing, chiefly, +however, of the pigeon kind." + +We saw no kangaroos or opossums of any kind during our visit; but if we +may judge from the number of snakes at so advanced a period of the dry +season when they are generally in a dormant state, reptiles are very +numerous. Mr. Cunningham found a very curious species of lizard, +remarkable for having a thin, membranaceous appendage attached to the +back of its head and round the neck and falling over its shoulders in +folds as low as the fore arm. It was sent by Mr. Cunningham to the +College of Surgeons where it is now preserved. Small lizards, centipedes, +and scorpions were numerous about our encampment; and the trees and +bushes about the tents were infested by myriads of hornets and other +insects, particularly mosquitoes and small sandflies which annoyed us +very much in the evenings. + +Besides the huts on the beach which were merely strips of bark bent over +to form a shelter from the sun, there were others on the top of the hill +over the tents of a larger and more substantial construction; no two +however were built after the same fashion. One of them was thus erected: +Two walls of stones, piled one upon the other to the height of three +feet, formed the two ends; and saplings were laid across to support a +covering of bark or dried grass: the front, which faced the east, was not +closed; but the back, which slanted from the roof to the ground, appeared +to have been covered with bark like the roof. + +The other huts were made somewhat of a similar construction, as they are +represented in Woodcut 5, but all differed in shape: it did not appear +that they had been very recently inhabited for the greater part of the +thatch was burnt. + +The natives did not make their appearance during our stay; and although +an interview with them would have afforded us both amusement and +information yet their absence was perhaps more desirable since all our +provisions and stores were on shore; and their intimacy would probably +have produced a quarrel which, for our own sakes as well as for the +safety of future visitors, was best avoided. + +The fireplaces near them were strewed with the nuts of the sago palm, the +fruit of which appears to be generally eaten by the natives of the north +and north-west coasts. + +October 9. + +On the 9th we left Careening Bay; and passing out between Cape Brewster +and the Coronation Islands entered a spacious sound which was called +Brunswick Bay in honour of that illustrious house. From Cape Brewster the +land extended for six miles to Cape Wellington round which there appeared +to be a communication with the water seen over the hills of Careening +Bay. + +In front of the bay a cluster of islands extends from the north end of +the Coronation Islands to the westward and south-westward and approaches +the mainland; which, to the westward of Cape Wellington, was only seen in +detached portions. + +October 10. + +The next day, having passed the previous night at anchor off Cape +Brewster, it was calm until noon: the sea-breeze then set in and carried +us quickly round Cape Wellington into a considerable opening, trending to +the southward and bearing a river-like appearance. Having the wind and +tide in our favour we stood on and continued to run up until high-water; +when, as no anchorage had been found, we were obliged to proceed against +the tide. At seven miles from the entrance we passed Rothsay Water, a +considerable opening on the east side, and opposite to it was another +which was called Munster Water; in front of it were several rocky islands +covered with grass and trees. We continued to steel up the main stream +and passed a point whence the direction of the river changed to +South-East; and after running five miles farther entered an extensive +sheet of water, St. George's Basin, in which were the two large islands +of St. Andrew and St. Patrick. The evening was now drawing near and we +hauled round Strong-tide Point into a strait separating St. Andrew's +Island from the main; here we were at last successful in finding an +anchorage out of the strength of the tide which, in the narrower parts of +the river, was setting at the rate of four and a half and five knots. + +October 11 to 12. + +The further examination of the opening was continued by our boats; and +whilst Mr. Roe explored the northern and eastern shores of the basin I +was occupied in examining the river which falls into it at its south-east +end. + +Mount Trafalgar is a conspicuous object on the north-eastern side of the +basin; and another hill close to it being equally remarkable was called +Mount Waterloo. These two hills rise precipitously from the plain; and +being capped by a wall-like battlement bear a strong resemblance to Steep +Head in Port Warrender. + +Upon leaving the cutter we crossed St. George's Basin which appeared to +receive several streams on the south side and landed on a small wooded +islet for bearings; from which the summits of Mounts Waterloo and +Trafalgar bore in a line. About two miles farther on the banks of the +river again contracted and trended to the south-east on so direct a +course that, from the distant land being hidden by the horizon, the river +bore the appearance of being a strait. We were now twenty-two miles from +the sea and as there was every appearance of this proving a considerable +stream it was honoured by the title of Prince Regent. + +While I was employed upon the island with the theodolite Mr. Hunter, my +companion, shot seven or eight brace of birds: they were of two kinds; +one a species of oyster-catcher and the other a sandpiper. + +The island is of small extent and is connected to the land by a shoal +communication; it is rocky and thickly wooded; the trees were chiefly +acacias. The marks of considerable floods were noticed upon its shores; +and the wrecks of very large trees were thrown up ten or twelve feet +above the high-water mark. + +We re-embarked at a quarter to twelve o'clock and pulled fourteen miles +farther up the river when a slight turn hid the island on which we had +landed from our view; from the width of a mile and a half at the entrance +it had decreased to about two-thirds of a mile and still continued +gradually to get narrower: its banks throughout are bounded by steep +rocky hills rising to the height of two or three hundred feet which, in +some parts, were nearly overhanging the water; several mangrove-inlets +communicated with the river on either side but they were all salt-water +creeks. + +The rocks on the hills are formed of a close-grained siliceous sandstone; +and the ground is covered with loose masses of the same rock, with +spinifex growing between them; this plant is of itself sufficient to +indicate the poverty of the soil. As we passed a small round islet an +alligator which had been basking in the sun alarmed at our approach, +rushed into the water, and, as we came near the spot, rose to reconnoitre +us, but instantly sunk again. + +The sea-breeze being unimpeded by the intervention of land blew so strong +that, when the flood ceased, we were enabled to proceed for some time +against the ebb-tide. It also prevented our suffering from the heat which +would otherwise have been very oppressive for the thermometer stood all +day at 96 and 98 degrees. + +At the distance of about seventeen miles from the basin we were surprised +by hearing the noise of a fall of water; but distrusting our ears we were +not convinced of the fact, until an opening in the mangroves exposed to +our view a cascade of water of one hundred and sixty feet in breadth, +falling from a considerable height. As the breeze still enabled us to +make way against the tide we did not stay to examine it; and therefore +deferred our visit until our return. + +Three miles farther up we put ashore to rest and refresh the boat's crew; +and whilst I was occupied at the beach Mr. Hunter ascended the hill to +examine the country but found only a continuation of the same rocky hills +and sterile desert. The character of the river had assumed nearly the +same appearance as Hunter and Roe's Rivers in Prince Frederic's Harbour, +excepting that the hills were less precipitous and rather more wooded. +About two miles beyond our station the width began to decrease and the +stream to take a more winding course: the banks were also lower and the +mangroves appeared to increase in quantity; but unlike the other rivers +the bottom was of sand and there was scarcely any mud, excepting on the +banks where the mangroves grew. Several places were observed upon the +hills where the trees and grass had been burnt by fire, but otherwise +there was no sign of the banks of the river ever being frequented by +natives. + +By the time we had refreshed ourselves it was getting late and we set out +on our return; the tide had now ebbed considerably and exposed several +banks which, having been covered, had before escaped our observation; we +grounded on several as we proceeded, which detained us so long that it +was dark when we passed the cascade, and by the time we reached the +island on which we had seen the alligator in the morning, the tide had +commenced to flow. + +Here we determined upon remaining until the ebb; and after satisfying +ourselves that there were no alligators upon it landed, and kindled a +fire upon the dry summit of the island under a large log of wood that had +been washed down the river and deposited there by the freshes. Whilst our +refreshment was preparing we searched about for alligators, but not +finding any and being quite overpowered by the fatigues of the day, we +composed ourselves to rest; during which, although the alligators did not +trouble us, we were greatly incommoded by sandflies and mosquitoes; but +neither our fear of the former, nor the annoyance of the latter, +prevented our sleeping as soundly as we should have done on a more safe +and luxurious couch. Mr. Hunter also, who for some time after the rest +had fallen asleep walked about in order to keep on the alert, very soon +followed our example and we happily passed the night without accident. + +At three o'clock the tide began to ebb and the boat-keeper awakened us to +re-embark on our return. On looking about we were surprised to find that +the tide had reached within three feet of our fireplace and must have +risen at least thirty feet since we landed. The air was now so cold from +a copious fall of dew that we were obliged to resort to our blankets and +cloaks for warmth; but with the sun the mercury rose from 80 to 88 and 90 +degrees; and the morning being quite calm became excessively sultry. + +On reaching the cutter we found that Mr. Roe had returned the preceding +evening from having examined the north-east shore of the basin and traced +two openings that trend for a short distance in on either side of the +mounts. On his return he pulled round the south side of St. Andrew's +Island and landed at its south-west end where he made a fire which spread +rapidly through the dried grass and set the surface of the island in a +blaze. It continued to burn for several days afterwards. + +During our absence the shore of the bay of anchorage had also been +examined and several pools of water were discovered, from which we filled +our empty casks. Mr. Cunningham ascended the hills which rose nearly +perpendicularly for at least 400 feet; they were thickly clothed with +trees and plants from which he obtained a large addition to his +collection. In wandering about through the spinifex upon the cliffs he +saw four small kangaroos; and near the waterholes one of the crew saw a +fifth, of a gray colour and of a larger size than usual. + +Our people were now all laid up with sores upon their feet and legs from +cuts and bruises received in scrambling over the rocks; and several were +affected by ophthalmia. Besides this the rainy season was approaching; it +commenced last year about the 18th of October, and as the weather was now +close and sultry and daily getting more unfavourable, the change was +evidently at hand. + +October 13. + +We therefore determined upon quitting the coast as soon as possible; and +as there was nothing to detain us here any longer we weighed the +following afternoon as soon as the tide commenced to ebb. + +Our distance from the mouth was sixteen miles and the breeze blew +directly against us but, as the tide was running out with great strength, +we succeeded in reaching an anchorage in Brunswick Bay before dark; not +however without incurring considerable danger in passing through strong +tide ripplings when abreast of Rothsay Water; which caused me to suspect +that it communicated with Prince Frederic's Harbour. + +In beating out of the river the cutter leaked a good deal, which showed +that our late repair at Careening Bay had not placed us without the pale +of danger: and I now began to fear that the leak had been occasioned more +from the defect of her fastenings than from the accident that happened to +her keel; so that we were in every respect as badly off as before the +cutter was careened. This made me decide upon instantly returning to Port +Jackson; but it was with great regret that I found it necessary to +resolve so; for the land to the westward appeared so indented as to +render the necessity of our departure at this moment particularly +vexatious. + +October 14. + +The next day therefore we passed out to sea to the westward of Baudin's +Keraudren Island. + +The wind, upon leaving the coast, being West-South-West and +West-North-West, carried us as far to the north as 11 degrees 43 minutes +before we met with southerly winds; after which they gradually veered to +the south-east trade. + +October 30. + +On the 30th at midnight we were upon the parallel of 19 degrees 33 +minutes, on which the Tryal rocks have been said to exist; in order +therefore to be on the safe side we tacked to the northward for four +hours and then passed back again until daylight when we resumed our +course. + +October 31. + +At ten o'clock a.m. we were in the latitude assigned to these rocks by +the brig Greyhound, the master of which vessel, on his arrival at Port +Jackson from China last year, published an account in the Sydney Gazette +of his having seen them at a distance. Had he been certain of the fact he +would not have hesitated to approach sufficiently near them to have made +all on board sensible of their existence; but it appears that the greater +part, if not the whole, of the crew were so obstinate that they either +would not, or could not, see them. + +Were the tracks of every vessel that has passed over this part laid down, +I think there would remain very little belief of their existence; in my +own opinion I am convinced that there is no danger of the sort between +the coast of New Holland and the meridian of 102 degrees east longitude. +The Dutch account records this danger to be forty miles in extent from +east to west and fifteen miles in breadth; and the Danish account +describes it to extend for twenty-four miles from north-east to +south-west. Was there a danger of so considerable an extent in existence +in the direct track of outward-bound China-ships, it is hardly possible +to conceive it could be passed without having been repeatedly seen. + +The existence of Cloates Island also, of which there are so many +undeniable and particular descriptions, has been for a long time +questioned by navigators; I think however there is no doubt that it does +exist but that it is no other than the mainland to the southward of the +North West Cape. The descriptions of this island by Captain Nash of the +ship House of Austria, as well as that of the Haeslingfield in 1743, and +subsequently by Captain Pelly, accord exactly with the appearance of this +promontory; nor is the longitude much in error when we consider the +strength of the currents which set to the north-west, during the easterly +monsoon, in the space between New Holland and Java. Captain Nash places +Cloates Island 7 degrees 26 minutes East of Java Head, and the +Haeslingfield 7 degrees 12 minutes; the mean of the two accounts is 7 +degrees 19 minutes; the true difference of the meridians of Java Head and +the North West Cape is 9 degrees 3 minutes, a difference only of 1 degree +44 minutes. + +May not the Tryal Rocks also be some of the low islands that skirt the +coast? The account of them by the Dutch sloop in 1718 places them in +latitude 19 degrees 30 minutes and eighty leagues from the coast of New +Holland; but, unless it is Bedout Island (a sandy islet seen by Captain +Baudin, in longitude 118 degrees 50 minutes) there is no part of the +coast that can at all accord with the description in respect to latitude. +The rocks seen by the Fredensberg Castle in 1777 are certainly the +Montebello Isles, which answer the Dane's description exactly; for they +are very low and rocky and abound in reefs, one of which extends a long +distance to the north-west from Trimouille Island. There remains no doubt +in my mind but that Barrow's Island and Trimouille Island, and the +numerous reefs around them, are the identical Tryal Rocks which have been +the theme and dread of every voyager to the eastern islands for the two +last centuries.* Captain Flinders** spent some days in an ineffectual +search for them and has, I think, decidedly proved their non-existence +between the parallels of 20 1/4 and 21 degrees, and the meridians of 103 +1/2 and 106 1/2 degrees. The above islands accord exactly as to latitude; +and the only argument against the probability of this supposition is +their longitude; but during the month of July the current sets with great +strength to the westward and might occasion considerable errors in ships' +reckonings, which, in former days, were so imperfectly kept that no +dependence can be placed upon them. + +(*Footnote. The Tryal Rocks obtained their name from the English ship +Tryal, said to have been lost upon them in 1622 (vide Horsburg's Indian +Directory volume 1 page 100). This danger having been once laid down +will, perhaps, never be erased from the chart, although it is generally +believed not to exist. It has been placed in various positions according +to the account which the compiler gives most credence to. In Arrowsmith's +large chart of the South Sea it is laid down in 20 degrees 40 minutes +South and 104 1/2 degrees East.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders volume 2 pages 261 to 263.) + +1820. November 1. + +The following afternoon the man at the masthead reported breakers in the +West-North-West, and when I went to examine from thence I was for some +time equally deceived: the helm was put up and we bore down towards them +but, as we approached, they vanished and we found we had been deceived by +the reflection of the sun's rays upon the water.* After being +sufficiently assured of our mistake, the course was resumed. + +(*Footnote. The deceptious appearances that are frequently observed at +sea, such as the reflection of the sun, ripplings occasioned by the +meeting of two opposite currents, whales asleep upon the surface of the +water, shoals of fish, fog-banks, and the extraordinary effect of mirage, +than which, as an optical illusion, nothing is more deceiving, have +doubtless given birth to many of these non-existing shoals and islands. +Were charts to be published (one does exist in manuscript, in the +Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty) with all the islands and dangers +laid down that have been reported by good and respectable authorities, +the navigator would be in a constant fever of anxiety and alarm for the +safety of his vessel. The charts of the present day teem with examples of +this sort and many islands and reefs are laid down which have not been +seen since their first discovery, and which perhaps never existed at all, +unless, like Sabrina Island, they were thrown up by a submarine volcano, +and disappeared immediately afterwards.) + +November 2. + +And by the following noon we had passed the parallel of the southernmost +limit assigned to these redoubtable rocks. + +When we were on the starboard tack two nights before, the cutter leaked +so much that we were upwards of an hour pumping out the water that had +collected in three hours. + +On the 2nd of November we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn in 100 1/2 +degrees East. + +November 4. + +And on the 4th in latitude 28 degrees the trade-wind ceased: the winds +were however variable between South and South-East until we reached the +latitude of 31 1/2 degrees and longitude 95 degrees 20 minutes; when the +wind veered by North-East to North-West and West-North-West and we made +rapid progress to the south-east. Between the parallels of 40 and 42 +degrees, we had the wind always to the westward of North by East and +South by West, with the current uniformly setting to the northward, +sometimes at the rate of three-quarters of a mile per hour; to the +south-west of Cape Leeuwin it affected us more than one knot: scarcely +any easterly current was observed. + +November 27. + +On the 27th at eight p.m. we sounded in forty-eight fathoms. + +November 28. + +And at one o'clock the following morning saw the Black Pyramid and soon +after entered Bass Strait by the passage on the south side of King's +Island. After running into the latitude of Sea Elephant Bay on the east +side of King's Island, in an unsuccessful search after some rocks laid +down in the French charts but not noticed in those of Captain Flinders, +we bore up; and at eleven p.m. passed Sir Roger Curtis Island. + +November 29. + +And the next day cleared the strait. + +1820. December 2. + +On the 2nd we were off Mount Dromedary; and the wind blew strong from the +East, the weather assuming a threatening appearance. + +December 3. + +The next day we passed the heads of Jervis Bay at the distance of three +or four leagues, and the course was altered to North and North by West +parallel to the coast. At noon an indifferent observation for the +latitude and a sight of the land, which for a few minutes was visible +through the squalls, showed that our situation was very much nearer to +the shore than we had expected, a circumstance that was attributed to a +current setting into the bight to the northward of Jervis Bay. The wind +from the eastward was light and baffling and this, added to the critical +situation we were in, made me very anxious to obtain an offing before +night for there was every appearance of a gale from the eastward. + +After two or three squalls a breeze sprung up from the East-South-East +with heavy rain, and a North-North-East course was steered, which should +have taken us wide of the coast: having run thirty-seven miles on that +course we steered North by East four miles and then North 1/2 West that +we might not be more than twenty miles from the shore in the morning and +sufficiently near to see the lighthouse on the south head of Port +Jackson; but, from an unusual westerly current, we found ourselves, very +nearly to our destruction, considerably out of our reckoning. + +December 4. + +At 2 hours 40 minutes a.m., by the glare of a flash of lightning, the +land was suddenly discovered close under our lee: we hauled to the wind +immediately but the breeze at the same moment fell, and the swell being +heavy, the cutter made but little progress. Sail was made as quickly as +possible and as the cutter headed North-North-East there was every +likelihood of her clearing the land; but a quarter of an hour afterwards, +by the light of another flash, it was again seen close to us, stretching +from right ahead to our lee-quarter and so near that the breakers were +distinctly seen gleaming through the darkness of the night. A third flash +of lightning confirmed our fears as to the dangerous situation we were +in; and as there was not room to veer the helm was immediately put a-lee; +but, as was feared, the cutter refused stays. We were now obliged to veer +as a last resource, and the sails being manoeuvred so as to perform this +operation as quickly as possible, we fortunately succeeded in the attempt +and the cutter's head was brought to the wind upon the other tack without +her striking the rocks: we were now obliged to steer as close to the wind +as possible in order to weather the reef on which the sea was breaking, +within five yards to leeward of the vessel: our escape appeared to be +next to impossible: the night was of a pitchy darkness and we were only +aware of our situation from time to time as the lightning flashed: the +interval therefore between the flashes, which were so vivid as to +illumine the horizon round, was of a most awful and appalling nature, and +the momentary succession of our hopes and fears which crowded rapidly +upon each other, may be better imagined than described. We were evidently +passing the line of breakers very quickly; but our escape appeared to be +only possible through the interposition of a Divine Providence, for, by +the glare of a vivid stream of forked lightning, the extremity of the +reef was seen within ten yards from our lee bow; and the wave which +floated the vessel the next moment broke upon the rocks with a surf as +high as the vessel's masthead: at this dreadful moment the swell left the +cutter, and she struck upon a rock with such force that the rudder was +nearly lifted out of the gudgeons: fortunately we had a brave man and a +good seaman at the helm, for instantly recovering the tiller, by a blow +from which he had been knocked down when the vessel struck, he obeyed my +orders with such attention and alacrity that the sails were kept full; so +that by her not losing way, she cleared the rock before the succeeding +wave flowed from under her, and the next moment a flash of lightning +showed to our almost unbelieving eyes that we had passed the extremity of +the rocks and were in safety! This sudden deliverance from the brink of +destruction was quite unexpected by all on board our little vessel and +drew from us a spontaneous acknowledgement of gratitude to the only +source from whence our providential escape could be attributed. + +It was now doubtful whether we could clear the point under our lee which +we first saw, but as the next flash of lightning showed that we were +between the heads of Botany Bay, and that the point on which we had +nearly been wrecked was, according to Captain Hunter's plan, Cape Banks, +its northern head, we bore up and in half an hour were safe at anchor. +Daylight now broke and with it the weather began to get worse, so that we +were obliged to remain at this anchorage, which was on the south side of +the bay near Point Sutherland, until the next morning; when we got under +sail and anchored near the opposite shore, under the guard-house, from +which the soldiers supplied us with some refreshments. + +December 6. + +On the 6th His Excellency the Governor was informed of our arrival and of +our intention to go round to Port Jackson as soon as the weather cleared +up; but we were detained by it until the 9th; when with some difficulty +we cleared the entrance of the bay; at noon the anchor was once more +dropped in Sydney Cove, after an absence of twenty-five weeks and three +days. + +END OF VOLUME 1. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia, by Phillip Parker King + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 11203.txt or 11203.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/1/2/0/11203/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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