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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11679 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 11679-h.htm or 11679-h.zip:
+ (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/1/6/7/11679/11679-h/11679-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/1/1/6/7/11679/11679-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+THE WHITE ROAD TO VERDUN
+
+By
+
+Kathleen Burke
+Knight of St. Sava, Serbia
+Officier de l'Instruction Publique, France
+
+
+
+
+
+
+This Little Book Is
+Respectfully And Affectionately Dedicated To
+Madame Jusserand,
+Ambassadrice de France in Washington,
+and to
+Monsieur Gaston Liebert,
+Consul General de France
+
+Dr. C. O. Mailloux
+
+And to all my good friends in the United States and Canada,
+whose sympathy and encouragement have helped me so much in
+my work.
+
+
+VIVE LA FRANCE
+
+
+
+
+Contents
+
+
+Chapter
+
+ I The True Philosophers
+ II The Bridge At Meaux
+ III Recruiting Rat-Catchers
+ IV A Gun Carriage An Altar
+ V Life Behind The Lines
+ VI Devotion To Animals
+ VII Hunting For Generals
+ VIII An Instance Of Quick Wit
+ IX At The Headquarters Of General Petain
+ X A Meeting With "Forain"
+ XI Value Of Women's Work
+ XII The "Movies" Under Fire
+ XIII A Subterranean Cut
+ XIV Poilu And Tommy
+ XV Abbreviated French
+ XVI The Brown And Black Sons Of France
+ XVII At General Nivelle's Headquarters
+XVIII Rheims
+ XIX At The Headquarters Of The Generalissimo
+ XX To The Glory Of The Women Of France
+
+
+
+
+
+The True Philosophers
+
+
+We left Paris determined to undertake the journey to the Front in
+the true spirit of the French Poilu, and, no matter what happened,
+"de ne pas s'en faire." This famous "motto" of the French Army is
+probably derived from one of two slang sentences, de ne pas se
+faire des cheveux ("to keep one's hair on,") or de ne pas se faire
+de la bile, or, in other words, not to upset one's digestion by
+unnecessary worrying. The phrase is typical of the mentality of the
+Poilu, who accepts anything and everything that may happen,
+whether it be merely slight physical discomfort, or intense
+suffering, as part of the willing sacrifice which he made on the day
+that, leaving his homestead and his daily occupation, he took up
+arms "offering his body as a shield to defend the heart of France."
+
+Everything might be worse than it is, says the Poilu, and so he has
+composed a Litany. Every regiment has a different version, but
+always with the same basis.
+
+"Of two things one is certain: Either you're mobilised or you're not
+mobilised. If you're not mobilised, there is no need to worry; if you
+are mobilised, of two things one is certain: Either you're behind the
+lines or you're on the Front. If you're behind the lines there is no
+need to worry; if you're on the Front, of two things one is certain:
+Either you're resting in a safe place or you're exposed to danger. If
+you're resting in a safe place there is no need to worry; if you're
+exposed to danger, of two things one is certain: Either you're
+wounded or you're not wounded. If you're not wounded, there is no
+need to worry; if you are wounded, of two things one is certain:
+Either you're wounded seriously or you're wounded slightly. If
+you're wounded slightly there is no need to worry; if you're
+wounded seriously, of two things one is certain: Either you recover
+or you die. If you recover there is no need to worry; if you die you
+can't worry."
+
+When once past the "Wall of China," as the French authorities call
+the difficult approaches to the war zone, Meaux was the first town
+of importance at which we stopped. We had an opportunity to
+sample the army bread, as the driver of a passing bread wagon
+flung a large round loaf into our motor.
+
+According to all accounts received from the French soldiers who
+are in the prison camps of Germany, one of the greatest hardships
+is the lack of white bread, and they have employed various
+subterfuges in the endeavour to let their relatives know that they
+wish to have bread sent to them.
+
+Some of the Bretons writing home nickname bread "Monsieur
+Barras," and when there was a very great shortage they would
+write to their families: "Ce pauvre Monsieur Barras ne se porte pas
+tres bien a present." (M. Barras is not very well at present.) Finally
+the Germans discovered the real significance of M. Barras and
+they added to one of the letters: "Si M. Barras ne se porte pas tres
+bien a present c'est bien la faute de vos amis les Anglais." (If M.
+Barras is not well at present, it is the fault of your friends the
+English.) And from then all the letters referring to M. Barras
+were strictly suppressed.
+
+While the German Press may not be above admitting a shortage
+of food in Germany, it seriously annoys the Army that the French
+prisoners or the French in the invaded regions should hear of it. I
+heard one story of the wife of a French officer in Lille, who was
+obliged to offer unwilling hospitality to a German Captain, who, in a
+somewhat clumsy endeavour to be amiable, offered to try to get
+news of her husband and to convey it to her. Appreciating the
+seeming friendliness, of the Captain, she confided to him that she
+had means of communicating with her husband who was on the
+French Front. The Captain informed against her and the next day
+she was sent for by the Kommandantur, who imposed a fine of fifty
+francs upon her for having received a letter from the enemy lines.
+Taking a one hundred franc note from her bag she placed it on the
+desk, saying, "M. le Kommandantur, here is the fifty francs fine,
+and also another fifty francs which I am glad to subscribe for the
+starving women and children in Berlin." "No one starves in Berlin,"
+replied the Kommandantur. "Oh, yes, they do," replied Madame X.,
+"I know because the Captain who so kindly informed you that I had
+received a letter from my husband showed me a letter the other
+day from his wife in which she spoke of the sad condition of the
+women and children of Germany, who, whilst not starving, were far
+from happy." Thus she not only had the pleasure of seriously
+annoying the Kommandantur, but also had a chance to get even
+with the Captain who had informed against her, and who is no
+longer in soft quarters in Lille, but paying the penalty of his
+indiscretion by a sojourn on the Yser.
+
+
+
+
+The Bridge At Meaux
+
+
+
+The Bridge at Meaux, destroyed in the course of the German
+retreat, has not yet been entirely repaired. Beneath it rushes the
+Marne and the river sings in triumph, as it passes, that it is carrying
+away the soil that has been desecrated by the steps of the
+invader, and that day by day it is washing clean the land of France.
+
+In the fields where the corn is standing, the tiny crosses marking
+the last resting places of the men are entirely hidden, but where
+the grain has been gathered the graves, stand out distinctly
+marked not only by a cross, but also by the tall bunches of corn
+which have been left growing on these small patches of holy
+ground. It has always been said that France has two harvests
+each year. Certainly in the fields of the Marne there is not only the
+harvest of bread; there is also springing up the harvest of security
+and peace.
+
+The peasants as they point out the graves always add: "We of the
+people know that those men sacrificed their lives that our children
+might live. Those who have died in vain for an unjust cause may
+well envy the men of France who have poured out their blood for
+the benefit of humanity."
+
+Looking on the crosses on the battlefield of the Marne, I realised to
+the fullest extent the sacrifices, borne with such bravery, of the
+women of France. I thought of the picture I had seen in Paris of a
+group of mothers standing at the foot of Calvary, looking out over
+the fields of small black crosses, lifting their hands to Heaven, with
+the words: "We also, God, have given our sons for the peace of
+the world."
+
+At Montmirail the real activity of the war zone first became
+apparent. We drew the car to the side of the road and waited
+whilst a long procession of empty munition wagons passed on the
+way back from the munition parks near the fighting line. There was
+a smile on the face of every one of the drivers. Each of them had
+the satisfaction of knowing that there was no chance of his
+returning with an empty wagon, as there is no lack of provisions to
+feed the hungriest of the "75's" or any of her larger sisters.
+
+The fact that it is known that there is an ample supply of munitions
+plays an important part in the "morale" of the troops. The average
+Poilu has no sympathy with the man who grumbles at the number
+of hours he may have to spend in the factory. We heard the tale of
+a munition worker who was complaining in a cafe at having to work
+so hard. A Poilu who was en permission, and who was sitting at
+the next table, turned to him saying: "You have no right to grumble.
+You receive ten to twelve francs a day for making shells and we
+poor devils get five sous a day for stopping them!"
+
+
+
+
+Recruiting Rat-Catchers
+
+
+
+We lunched in the small but hospitable village of Sezannes in
+company with a most charming invalided officer, who informed us
+that he was the principal in that district of the S.D.R. R.D. (Service
+de Recherche des Rattiers) (the Principal Recruiting Officer for
+Rat-Catchers). In other words, he is spending his time endeavouring
+to persuade suitable bow-wows to enlist in the service of their
+country. Likely dogs are trained until they do not bark, and become
+entirely accustomed to the sound of firing; they are then pronounced
+"aptes a faire campagne" or "fit for service," receive their livret
+militaire, or certificates--for not every chance dog is allowed in
+the trenches--and are despatched to the trenches on a rat-hunting
+campaign.
+
+At the commencement of the .War, dogs were not utilized to the
+extent they are at present. A large number are now with the
+French Army and the wonderful training they have received, aided
+by their natural sagacity, renders them a holy terror to prowling
+bodies and spies. Those employed in carrying messages or
+tobacco to the soldiers in dangerous trenches now wear gas
+masks, as many of these high trained animals have been lost in
+consequence of too closely investigating the strange odour
+caused by this Hun war method.
+
+From Sezannes we proceeded direct to the new camp for German
+prisoners at Connantre. The prisoners were mostly men who had
+been taken in the recent fighting on the Somme or around Verdun.
+The camp was already excellently installed and the prisoners were
+busy in groups gardening, making bread, or sitting before great
+heaps of potatoes preparing them for the evening meal. In one
+corner the inevitable German Band was preparing for an evening
+concert. The German sense of order was everywhere in evidence.
+In the long barracks where the men slept the beds were tidy, and
+above each bed was a small shelf, each shelf arranged in exactly
+the same order, the principal ornaments being a mug, fork and
+spoon; and just as each bed resembled each other bed, so the
+fork and spoon were placed in their respective mugs at exactly the
+same angle. There were small partitioned apartments for the non-
+commissioned officers.
+
+The French Commander of the camp told us that the German love
+of holding some form of office was everywhere apparent. The
+French made no attempt to command the prisoners themselves,
+but always chose men from amongst the prisoners who were
+placed in authority over their comrades. The prisoners rejoiced
+exceedingly and promptly increased in self-importance and, alas,
+decreased in manners, if they were given the smallest position
+which raised them above the level of the rest of the men.
+
+In the barrack where they were cutting up bread for the prisoners,
+we asked the men if they deeply regretted their captivity. They
+replied unanimously that they were "rather glad to be well fed,"
+which seemed an answer in itself. They did not, however,
+appreciate the white bread, and stated that they preferred their
+own black bread. The French officers commanding the camp treat
+the prisoners as naughty children who must be "kept in the corner"
+and punished for their own good. In all my travels through France I
+have never seen any bitterness shown towards the prisoners. I
+remember once at Nevers we passed a group of German prisoners,
+and amongst them was a wounded man who was lying in a small cart.
+A hand bag had fallen across his leg, and none of his comrades
+attempted to remove it. A French woman pushing her way between
+the guards, lifted it off and gave it to one of the Germans to carry.
+When the guards tried to remonstrate she replied simply: "J'ai un
+fils prisonnier la bas, faut esperer qu'une allemande ferait autant
+pour lui." ("I have a son who is a prisoner in their land; let us hope
+that some German woman would do as much for him.")
+
+On the battlefields the kindness of the French medical men to the
+German wounded has always been conspicuous. One of my neutral
+friends passing through Germany heard from one of the prominent
+German surgeons that they were well aware of this fact, and knew that
+their wounded received every attention. There is a story known throughout
+France of a French doctor who was attending a wounded German
+on the battlefield. The man, who was probably half delirious,
+snatched at a revolver which was lying near by and attempted
+to shoot the doctor. The doctor took the revolver from him, patted
+him on the head, and said: "Voyons, voyons, ne faites pas l'enfant"
+("Now then, now then, don't be childish") and went on dressing his wounds.
+
+Everywhere you hear accounts of brotherly love and religious
+tolerance. I remember kneeling once by the side of a dying French
+soldier who was tenderly supported in the arms of a famous young
+Mohammedan surgeon, an Egyptian who had taken his degree in
+Edinburgh and was now attached to the French Red Cross. The
+man's mind was wandering, and seeing a woman beside him he
+commenced to talk to me as to his betrothed. "This war cannot last
+always, little one, and when it is over we will buy a pig and a cow
+and we will go to the cure, won't we, beloved?" Then in a lucid
+moment he realised that he was dying, and he commenced to
+pray, "Ave Maria, Ave Maria," but the poor tired brain could
+remember nothing more. He turned to me to continue, but I could
+no longer trust myself to speak, and it was the Mohammedan who
+took up the prayer and continued it whilst the soldier followed with
+his lips until his soul passed away into the valley of shadows. I
+think this story is only equalled in its broad tolerance by that of the
+Rabbi Bloch of Lyons, who was shot at the battle of the Aisne
+whilst holding a crucifix to the lips of a dying Christian soldier. The
+soldier priests of France have earned the love and respect of even
+the most irreligious of the Poilus. They never hesitate to risk their
+lives, and have displayed sublime courage and devotion to their
+duty as priests and as soldiers. Behind the first line of trenches a
+soldier priest called suddenly to attend a dying comrade, took a
+small dog he was nursing and handing it to one of the men simply
+remarked, "Take care of the little beast for me, I am going to a
+dangerous corner and I do not want it killed."
+
+
+
+
+A Gun Carriage An Altar
+
+
+
+I have seen the Mass celebrated on a gun carriage. Vases made
+of shell cases were filled with flowers that the men had risked their
+lives to gather in order to deck the improvised altar. A Red Cross
+ambulance drove up and stopped near by. The wounded begged
+to be taken out on their stretchers and laid at the foot of the altar in
+order that "they might receive the blessing of the good God"
+before starting on the long journey to the hospital behind the lines.
+
+Outside the prison camp of Cannantre stood a circle of French
+soldiers learning the bugle calls for the French Army. I wondered
+how the Germans cared to listen to the martial music of the men of
+France, one and all so sure of the ultimate victory of their country.
+Half a kilometre further on, a series of mock trenches had been
+made where the men were practising the throwing of hand
+grenades. Every available inch of space behind the French lines is
+made to serve some useful purpose.
+
+I never see a hand grenade without thinking how difficult it is just
+now to be a hero in France. Every man is really a hero, and the
+men who have medals are almost ashamed since they know that
+nearly all their comrades merit them. It is especially difficult to be a
+hero in one's own family. One of the men in our hospital at
+Royaumont had been in the trenches during an attack. A grenade
+thrown by one of the French soldiers struck the parapet and
+rebounded amongst the men. With that rapidity of thought which is
+part of the French character, Jules sat on the grenade and
+extinguished it. For this act of bravery he was decorated by the
+French Government and wrote home to tell his wife. I found him
+sitting up in bed, gloomily reading her reply, and I enquired why he
+looked so glum. "Well, Mademoiselle," he replied, "I wrote to my
+wife to tell her of my new honour and see what she says: 'My dear
+Jules, We are not surprised you got a medal for sitting on a hand
+grenade; we have never known you to do anything else but sit
+down at home!!!'"
+
+It was at Fere Champenoise that we passed through the first
+village which had been entirely destroyed by the retreating
+Germans. Only half the church was standing, but services are still
+held there every Sunday. Very little attempt has been made to
+rebuild the ruined houses. Were I one of the villagers I would
+prefer to raze to the ground all that remained of the desecrated
+homesteads and build afresh new dwellings; happy in the
+knowledge that with the victory of the Allies would start a period of
+absolute security, prosperity and peace.
+
+
+
+
+Life Behind The Lines
+
+
+
+Soon after leaving Mailly we had the privilege of beholding some of
+the four hundred centimetre guns of France, all prepared and
+ready to travel at a minute's notice along the railway lines to the
+section where they might be needed. Some idea of their size may
+be obtained from the fact that there were ten axles to the base on
+which they travel. They were all disguised by the system of
+camouflage employed by the French Army, and at a very short
+distance they blend with the landscape and become almost
+invisible. Each gun bears a different name, "Alsace," "Lorraine,"
+etc., and with that strange irony and cynical wit of the French
+trooper, at the request of the men of one battery, one huge gun
+has been christened "Mosquito," "Because it stings."
+
+The French often use a bitter and biting humour in speaking of the
+enemy. For instance, amongst the many pets of the men, the
+strangest I saw was a small hawk sitting on the wrist of a soldier
+who had trained him. The bird was the personification of evil. If any
+one approached he snapped at them and endeavoured to bite
+them. I asked the man why he kept him, and he replied that they
+had quite good sport in the trenches when they allowed the hawk
+to hunt small birds and field mice. Then his expression changing
+from jovial good humour to grimness, he added, "You know, I call
+him 'Zepp,' because he kills the little ones," (parcequ'il tue les tous
+petits.)
+
+
+
+
+Devotion To Animals
+
+
+
+In one small cantonment where two hundred Poilus sang, shouted,
+ate, drank and danced together to the strain of a wheezy
+gramophone, or in one word were "resting," I started to investigate
+the various kinds of pets owned by the troopers. Cats, dogs and
+monkeys were common, whilst one Poilu was the proud possessor
+of a parrot which he had purchased from a refugee obliged to fly
+from his home. He hastened to assure us that the bird had learned
+his "vocabulary" from his former proprietor. A study in black and
+white was a group of three or four white mice, nestling against the
+neck of a Senegalais.
+
+The English Tommy is quite as devoted to animals as is his
+French brother. I remember crossing one bitter February day from
+Boulogne to Folkestone. Alongside the boat, on the quay at
+Boulogne, were lined up the men who had been granted leave.
+Arrayed in their shaggy fur coats they resembled little the smart
+British soldier of peace times. It was really wonderful how much
+the men managed to conceal under those fur coats, or else the
+eye of the officer inspecting them was intentionally not too keen.
+
+Up the gangway trooped the men, and I noticed that two of them
+walked slowly and cautiously. The boat safely out of harbour, one
+of them produced from his chest a large tabby cat, whilst the other
+placed a fine cock on the deck. It was a cock with the true Gallic
+spirit, before the cat had time to consider the situation it had
+sprung on its back. The cat beat a hasty retreat into the arms of its
+protector who replaced it under his coat. Once in safety it stuck out
+its head and swore at the cock, which, perched on a coil of rope,
+crowed victoriously. Both had been the companions of the men in
+the trenches, and they were bringing them home.
+
+A soldier standing near me began to grumble because he had not
+been able to bring his pet with him. I enquired why he had left it
+behind since the others had brought theirs away with them, and
+elicited the information that his pet was "a cow, and therefore
+somewhat difficult to transport." He seemed rather hurt that I
+should laugh, and assured me it was "a noble animal, brown with
+white spots, and had given himself and his comrades two quarts of
+milk a day." He looked disdainfully at the cock and cat. "They could
+have left them behind and no one would have pinched them,
+whereas I know I'll never see 'Sarah' again, she was far too
+useful."
+
+Entering Vitry-le-Francois we had a splendid example of the typical
+"motto" of the French trooper, "II ne faut pas s'en faire" One of the
+motor cars had broken down, and the officer-occupants, who were
+evidently not on an urgent mission, had gone to sleep on the
+banks by the side of the road whilst the chauffeur was making the
+necessary repairs. We offered him assistance, but he was
+progressing quite well alone. Later on another officer related to me
+his experience when his car broke down at midnight some twelve
+miles from a village. The chauffeur was making slow headway with
+the repairs. The officer enquired whether he really understood the
+job, and received the reply, "Yes, mon Lieutenant, I think I do, but I
+am rather a novice, as before the war I was a lion-tamer!"
+Apparently the gallant son of Gaul found it easier to tame lions
+than to repair motors.
+
+
+
+
+Hunting For Generals
+
+
+
+We left Vitry-le-Francois at six o'clock next morning, and started
+"the hunt for Generals." It is by no means easy to discover where
+the actual Headquarters of the General of any particular sector is
+situated.
+
+We were not yet really on the "White Road" to Verdun, and there
+was still much to be seen that delighted the eyes. In one yellow
+cornfield there appeared to be enormous poppies. On approaching
+we discovered a detachment of Tirailleurs from Algiers, sitting in
+groups, and the "poppies" were the red fezes of the men--a gorgeous
+blending of crimson and gold. We threw a large box of cigarettes
+to them and were greeted with shouts of joy and thanks. The Tirailleurs
+are the enfants terribles of the French Army. One noble son of
+Africa who was being treated in one of the hospitals once presented
+me with an aluminium ring made from a piece of German shell.
+I asked him to make one for one of my comrades who was working
+at home, and he informed me that nothing would have given
+greater pleasure, but unfortunately he had no more aluminium.
+Later in the day, passing through the ward, I saw him surrounded
+by five or six Parisian ladies who were showering sweets, cigarettes
+and flowers on him, whilst he was responding by presenting
+each of them with an aluminium ring. When they had left I went
+to him and told him "Mahmud, that was not kind. I asked you for
+a ring and you said you had not got any more aluminium." He
+smiled and his nurse, who was passing, added, "No, he had
+not got any more aluminium, but when he is better he will get
+forty-eight hours' punishment; he has been into the kitchen,
+stolen one of our best aluminium saucepans, and has been
+making souvenirs for the ladies." He made no attempt to justify
+his action beyond stating: "Moi, pas si mauvais, toi pas faux souvenir"
+("I am not so bad, I did not try to give you a fake souvenir").
+
+Another of our chocolate coloured patients found in the grounds of
+the hospital an old umbrella. Its ribs stuck out and it was full of
+holes, but it gave him the idea of royalty and daily he sat up in bed
+in the ward with the umbrella unfurled whilst he laid down the law
+to his comrades. The nurses endeavoured to persuade him to
+hand it over at night. He obstinately refused, insisting that "he
+knew his comrades," and he feared that one of them would
+certainly steal the treasure, so he preferred to keep it in the bed
+with him.
+
+At Villers-le-Sec we came upon the headquarters of the cooks for
+that section of the Front. The cook is one of the most important
+men in a French regiment; he serves many ends. When carrying
+the food through the communicating trenches to the front line
+trenches he is always supposed to bring to the men the latest
+news, the latest tale which is going the round of the camp, and
+anything that may happen to interest them. If he has not got any
+news he must manufacture and produce some kind of story. It is
+really necessary for him to be not only a cook but also an author.
+
+There is a tale going the round of the French Army how one
+section of the Cooks, although unarmed, managed to take some
+twenty German prisoners. As they went on their way, they saw the
+Germans in the distance approaching them; the Head Cook quietly
+drew the field kitchens behind a clump of trees and bushes, placed
+his men in a row, each with a cooking utensil in his hand, and as
+the Germans passed shouted to them to surrender. The sun fell
+on the handles of the saucepans, causing them to shine like
+bayonets, and the Germans, taken unawares, laid down their
+arms. The Head Cook then stepped out and one by one took the
+rifles from the enemy and handed them to his men. It was only
+when he had disarmed the Germans and armed his comrades that
+he gave the signal for them to step out, and the Germans saw that
+they had been taken by a ruse. One can imagine the joy of the
+French troops in the next village when, with a soup ladle in his
+hand, his assistants armed with German rifles, followed by the
+soup kitchen and twenty prisoners--he marched in to report.
+
+
+
+
+An Instance Of Quick Wit
+
+
+
+It is curious how near humour is to tragedy in war, how quick wit
+may serve a useful purpose, and even save life. A young French
+medical student told me that he owed his life to the quick wit of the
+women of a village and the sense of humour of a Saxon officer.
+Whilst passing from one hospital to another he was captured by a
+small German patrol, and in spite of his papers proving that he
+was attached to the Red Cross Service, he was tried as a spy and
+condemned to be shot. At the opening of his trial the women had
+been interested spectators, towards the end all of them had
+vanished. He was placed against a barn door, the firing squad
+lined up, when from behind the hedge bordering a wood, the
+women began to bombard the soldiers with eggs. The aim was
+excellent, not one man escaped; the German officer laughed at
+the plight of his men and, in the brief respite accorded, the young
+man dashed towards the hedge and vanished in the undergrowth.
+The Germans fired a few shots but there was no organised
+attempt to follow him, probably because their own position was not
+too secure. He was loth to leave the women to face the music, but
+they insisted that it was pour la patrie and that they were quite
+capable of taking care of themselves. Later he again visited the
+village and the women told him that beyond obliging them to clean
+the soldiers' clothes thoroughly, the German officer had inflicted no
+other punishment upon them.
+
+A certain number of inhabitants are still living in the village of
+Revigny. You see everywhere placards announcing "Caves pour
+25," "Caves pour 100," and each person knows to which cellar he
+is to go if a Taube should start bombing the village. I saw one
+cellar marked "120 persons, specially safe, reserved for the
+children." Children are one of the most valuable assets of France,
+and a good old Territorial "Pe-Pere" (Daddy), as they are
+nicknamed, told me that it was his special but difficult duty to
+muster the children directly a Taube was signalled and chase them
+down into the cellar. Mopping his brow he assured me that it was
+not easy to catch the little beggars, who hid in the ruins, behind the
+army wagons, anywhere to escape the "parental" eye, even
+standing in rain barrels up to their necks in water. It is needless to
+add they consider it a grave infringement of their personal liberty
+and think that they should be allowed to remain in the open and
+see all that goes on, just as the little Londoners beg and coax to
+be allowed to stay up "to see the Zepps."
+
+Passing the railway station we stopped to make some enquiries,
+and promptly ascertained all we wished to know from the Chef de
+Gare. In the days of peace there is in France no one more
+officious than the station master of a small but prosperous village.
+Now he is the meekest of men. Braided cap in hand he goes along
+the train from carriage door to carriage door humbly requesting
+newspapers for the wounded in the local hospitals: "Nous avons
+cent vingt cinq blesses ici, cela les fait tant de plaisir d'avoir des
+nouvelles." (We have 125 wounded here and they love to hear the
+news.)
+
+In addition to levying a toll on printed matter, he casts a covetous
+and meaning glance on any fruit or chocolate that may be visible.
+Before the train is out of the station, you can see the once busy,
+and in his own opinion, all-important railway official, vanishing
+down the road to carry his spoils to his suffering comrades.
+Railway travelling is indeed expensive in France. No matter what
+time of day or night, wet or fine, the trains are met at each station
+by devoted women who extract contributions for the Red Cross
+Funds from the pockets of willing givers. It is only fair to state,
+however, that in most instances the station master gets there first.
+
+
+
+
+At The Headquarters Of General Petain
+
+
+
+From the time we left Revigny until we had passed into the
+Champagne country, upon the return journey from Verdun, we no
+longer saw a green tree or a blade of green grass; we were now
+indeed upon the "White Road which leads unto Verdun." Owing to
+an exceptionally trying and dry summer the roads are thick with
+white dust. The continual passing of the camions, the splendid
+transport wagons of the French Army, carrying either food,
+munitions, or troops, has stirred up the dust and coated the fields,
+trees and hedges with a thick layer of white. It is almost as painful
+to the eyes as the snow-fields of the Alps.
+
+I saw one horse that looked exactly like a plaster statuette. His
+master had scrubbed him down, but before he dried the white dust
+had settled on him everywhere. Naturally humans do not escape.
+By the time our party reached the Headquarters of General Petain
+we had joined the White Brigade. I excused myself to the General,
+who smilingly replied: "Why complain, Mademoiselle, you are
+charming; your hair is powdered like that of a Marquise." The
+contrast with what had been a black fur cap on what was now
+perfectly white hair justified his compliment. I have never been
+renowned in my life for fear of any individual, but I must admit that I
+passed into the presence of General Petain with a great deal of
+respect amounting almost to awe. The defence of Verdun through
+the bitter months of February and March by General Petain, a
+defence which is now under the immediate control of his able
+lieutenants General Nivelle and General Dubois, has earned the
+respect and admiration of the whole world. It is impossible not to
+feel the deepest admiration for these men who have earned such
+undying glory, not only for themselves, but for their Motherland.
+
+No one could have been more gracious and kind than General
+Petain, and in his presence one realised the strength and power of
+France. Throughout all the French Headquarters one is impressed
+by the perfect calm; no excitement; everything perfectly organised.
+
+General Petain asked me at once to tell him what I desired. I
+asked his permission to go to Rheims. He at once took up a paper
+which permitted me to enter the war zone and endorsed it with the
+request to General Debeney in Rheims to allow me to penetrate
+with my companions into the city. He then turned to me again and
+asked me, with a knowing smile, if that was all I required--for his
+Headquarters were hardly on the direct road to Rheims! I hesitated
+to express my real wish, when my good counsellor and friend, with
+whom I was making the journey, the Commandant Jean de Pulligny,
+answered for me: "I feel sure it would be a great happiness and
+honour if you would allow us, General, to go to Verdun." General
+Petain appeared slightly surprised, and turning to me asked: "Do
+you thoroughly realise the danger? You have crossed the Atlantic
+and faced submarines, but you will risk more in five minutes in
+Verdun than in crossing the Atlantic a thousand times." However,
+seeing that I was really anxious to go, and that it might be of great
+service to me in my future work to have seen personally the defence
+of Verdun, he added smilingly: "Well then, you can go if you wish
+at your own risk and peril." He then telephoned to General Nivelle
+the necessary permission for us to enter Verdun.
+
+I doubt whether General Petain realises the respect in which he is
+held in all the civilised countries of the world. Probably he does not
+yet understand that people would come thousands of miles to
+have five minutes' audience with him, for he enquired if we were in
+any hurry to continue our journey, and added with charming
+simplicity--"Because if not, and you do not mind waiting an hour, I
+shall be glad if you will lunch with me."
+
+
+
+
+A Meeting With "Forain"
+
+
+
+We lunched with General Petain and his Etat Major. A charming
+and most interesting addition to the party was M. Forain, the
+famous French caricaturist, and now one of the Chief Instructors of
+the French Army in the art of camouflage--the art of making a thing
+look like anything in the world except what it is! He has established
+a series of schools all along the French Front, where the Poilus
+learn to bedeck their guns and thoroughly disguise them under
+delicate shades of green and yellow, with odd pink spots, in order
+to relieve the monotony. Certainly the appearance of the guns of
+the present time would rejoice the heart and soul of the "Futurists."
+It was most interesting to hear him describe the work in detail and
+the rapidity with which his pupils learned the new art. For one real
+battery there are probably three or four false ones, beautiful
+wooden guns, etc., etc., and he told us of the Poilus' new version
+of the song "Rien n'est plus beau que notre Patrie" ("Nothing is
+more beautiful than our country"). They now sing "Rien n'est plus
+faux que notre batterie" ("Nothing is more false than our battery").
+
+It was M. Forain who coined the famous phrase "that there was no
+fear for the ultimate success of the Allies, if only the civilians held
+out!"
+
+I was much amused at M. Forain's statement that he had already
+heard that a company had been formed for erecting, after the War,
+wooden hotels on the battlefields of France for the accommodation
+of sightseers. Not only was it certain that these hotels were to be
+built, but the rooms were already booked in advance.
+
+
+
+
+Value Of Women's Work
+
+
+
+It was strange to find there, within the sound of the guns--
+sometimes the glasses on the table danced to the music although
+no one took any notice of that--surrounded by men directing the
+operations of the war and of one of the greatest battles in history,
+how little War was mentioned. Science, Philosophy and the work
+of women were discussed.
+
+The men of France are taking deep interest in the splendid
+manner in which the women of all the different nations are
+responding to the call to service. I described to General Petain the
+work of the Scottish Women's Hospitals. These magnificent
+hospitals are organised and staffed entirely by women and started,
+in the first instance, by the Scottish Branch of the National Union of
+Women's Suffrage. He was deeply interested to learn that what
+had been before the War a political society had, with that splendid
+spirit of patriotism which had from the first day of the war animated
+every man, woman and child of Great Britain, drawn upon its funds
+and founded the Hospital Units. I explained to him that it was no
+longer a question of politics, but simply a case of serving humanity
+and serving it to the best possible advantage. The National Union
+had realised that this was a time for organised effort on the part of
+all women for the benefit of the human race and the alleviation of
+suffering.
+
+I spoke of the bravery of our girls in Serbia; how many of them had
+laid down their lives during the typhus epidemic; how cheerfully
+they had borne hardships, our doctors writing home that their tent
+hospitals were like "great white birds spreading their wings under
+the trees," whereas really they had often been up all night hanging
+on to the tent poles to prevent the tents collapsing over their patients.
+
+A member of the Etat Major asked how we overcame the
+language difficulty. I pointed out that to diagnose typhus and watch
+the progress of the patient it was not necessary to speak to him,
+and that by the magic language of sympathy we managed to
+establish some form of "understanding" between the patients, the
+Doctors, and the Nurses. The members of our staff were chosen
+as far as possible with a knowledge of French or German, and it
+was possible to find many Serbians speaking either one of these
+languages. We also found interpreters amongst the Austrian
+prisoner orderlies. These prisoner orderlies had really proved
+useful and had done their best to help us. Naturally they had their
+faults. One of our Lady Doctors had as orderly a Viennese
+Professor, willing but somewhat absent-minded. One morning she
+sent for him and asked him: "Herr Karl, can you tell me what was
+wrong with my bath water this morning?" "I really don't know,
+Fraulein, but I will endeavour to find out."
+
+Ten minutes later he returned, looking decidedly guilty and
+stammered out, "I do not know how to tell you what happened to
+that bath water." "Nonsense, it can't be very terrible," replied
+Doctor X. "What was wrong?" "Well, Fraulein, when I went into the
+camp kitchen this morning there were two cauldrons there, one
+was your bath water, and the other was the camp soup. To you,
+Fraulein, I brought the camp soup."
+
+We who had worked with the Serbians had learned to respect and
+admire them for their patriotism, courage and patient endurance.
+We felt that their outstanding characteristic was their imagination,
+which, turned into the proper channels and given a chance to
+develop, should produce for the world not only famous painters
+and poets but also great inventors. This vivid imagination is found
+in the highest and lowest of the land. To illustrate it, I told my
+neighbour at table a tale related to me by my good friend Dr.
+Popovic. "Two weary, ragged Serbian soldiers were sitting huddled
+together waiting to be ordered forward to fight. One asked the
+other, 'Do you know how this War started, Milan? You don't. Well
+then I'll tell you. The Sultan of Turkey sent our King Peter a sack of
+rice. King Peter looked at the sack, smiled, then took a very small
+bag and went into his garden and filled it with red pepper. He sent
+the bag of red pepper to the Sultan of Turkey. Now, Milan, you can
+see what that meant. The Sultan of Turkey said to our Peter, 'My
+army is as numerous as the grains of rice in this sack,' and by
+sending a small bag of red pepper to the Sultan our Peter replied,
+'My Army is not very numerous, but it is mighty hot stuff.'"
+
+Many members of the Units of the Scottish Women's Hospitals
+who had been driven out of Serbia at the time of the great invasion
+had asked to be allowed to return to work for the Serbians, and we
+were now equipping fresh units, entirely staffed by women, to
+serve with the Serbian Army, besides having at the present time
+the medical care of six thousand Serbian refugees on the island of
+Corsica.
+
+General Petain said smiling that before the war he had sometimes
+thought of women "as those who inspired the most beautiful ideas
+in men and prevented them from carrying them out," but the war,
+he added, had certainly proved conclusively the value of women's
+work.
+
+M. Forain expressed the desire to visit the chief French Hospital of
+the Scottish Women at the Abbaye de Royaumont. The General
+laughingly told him, "You do not realise how stern and devoted to
+duty those ladies are. I wonder if you would be permitted to visit
+them?"
+
+I consoled M. Forain by pointing out that surely as chief Camoufler
+(disguiser) of the French Army, he could disguise himself as a
+model of virtue (de se camoufler en bon garcon). Certainly this son
+of France, who has turned his brilliant intellect and his art to the
+saving of men's lives, would be welcome anywhere and everywhere.
+I hastened to assure him that I was only teasing him, and added
+that I only teased the people I admired and liked. General Petain
+immediately turned to the Commandant de Pulligny--"Please remark
+that she has not yet teased me." "Probably because she fears
+to do it, and has too much respect for you," replied the Commandant.
+"Fears! I do not think we need talk of that just now, when she
+dares to go to Verdun."
+
+Whilst at coffee after lunch the news came of the continued
+advance of the British troops. General Petain turned to me and
+said, "You must indeed be proud in England of your new army.
+Please tell your English people of our admiration of the magnificent
+effort of England. The raising and equipping of your giant army in
+such a short time was indeed a colossal task. How well it was
+carried out all the world now knows and we are reaping the
+harvest."
+
+The General's Chief of Staff added: "Lord Kitchener was right
+when he said the war would last three years"--"the first year
+preparation, the second year defence, and the third year cela sera
+rigolo (it will be huge sport)." He quoted the phrase as Lord
+Kitchener's own.
+
+Before we left the General signed for me the menu of the lunch,
+pointing out to me, however, that if I were at any time to show the
+menu to the village policeman I must assure him that the hare
+which figured thereon had been run over at night by a motor car
+and lost its life owing to an accident, otherwise he might, he
+feared, be fined for killing game out of season!
+
+I shall always remember the picture of General Petain seeing us
+into our car with his parting words, "You are about to do the most
+dangerous thing you have ever done or will ever do in your life. As
+for Verdun, tell them in England that I am smiling and I am sure
+that when you see General Nivelle you will find him smiling too.
+That is the best answer I can give you as to how things are going
+with us at Verdun." Then with a friendly wave of his hand we
+passed on our way.
+
+After leaving the Headquarters of General Petain we were held up
+for some time at a level crossing and watched the busy little train
+puffing along, carrying towards Verdun stores, munitions and men.
+This level crossing had been the scene of active fighting; on each
+side were numerous graves, and the sentinels off duty were
+passing from one to the other picking a dead leaf or drawing a
+branch of trailing vine over the resting places of their comrades.
+
+Above our heads circled "les guipes" the wasps of the French
+Army. They had been aroused by the appearance of a Taube and
+were preparing to sting had the Taube waited or made any further
+attempt to proceed over the French lines. However, deciding that
+discretion was the better part of valour, it turned and fled.
+
+It is unwise, however, to stir up the "wasps of France"; they
+followed it, and later in the day we heard that it had been brought
+down near Verdun.
+
+We were now in the centre of activity of the army defending
+Verdun. On every hand we saw artillery parks, ammunition parks,
+and regiments resting, whilst along the road a long line of camions
+passed unceasingly. During the whole length of my stay on the
+French Front I only saw one regiment marching. Everywhere the
+men are conveyed in the camions, and are thus spared the fatigue
+which would otherwise be caused by the intense heat and the
+white dust. There are perhaps only two things that can in any way
+upset the perfect indifference to difficulties of the French trooper:
+he hates to walk, and he refuses to be deprived of his "pinard."
+The men of the French Army have named their red wine "pinard,"
+just as they call water "la flotte," always, however, being careful to
+add that "la flotte" is excellent "for washing one's feet."
+
+As we passed through the Headquarters of General Nivelle, he
+sent down word to us not to wait to call on him then, but to proceed
+at once to Verdun as later the passage would become more
+difficult. He kindly sent down to us one of the officers of his staff to
+act as escort. The officer sat by our chauffeur, warning him of the'
+dangerous spots in the road which the Germans had the habit of
+"watering" from time to time with "marmites," and ordering him to
+put on extra speed. Our speed along the road into Verdun
+averaged well over a mile a minute.
+
+
+
+
+The "Movies" Under Fire
+
+
+
+Within range of the German guns, probably not more than four or
+five kilometres from Verdun, we came on a line of men waiting
+their turn to go into the cinema. After all there was no reason "de
+s'en faire," and if they were alive they decided they might as well
+be happy and amused. Just before entering the gate of Verdun we
+passed a number of ambulances, some of them driven by the
+American volunteers. These young Americans have displayed
+splendid heroism in bringing in the wounded under difficult
+conditions. Many of them have been mentioned in despatches,
+and have received from France the Croix de Guerre. I also saw an
+ambulance marked "Lloyds."
+
+It would be useless to pretend that one entered Verdun without
+emotion,--Verdun, sorely stricken, yet living, kept alive by the
+indomitable soul of the soldiers of France, whilst her wounds are
+daily treated and healed by the skill of her Generals. A white city of
+desolation, scorched and battered, yet the brightest jewel in the
+crown of France's glory; a shining example to the world of the
+triumph of human resistance and the courage of men. A city of
+strange and cruel sounds. The short, sharp bark of the 75's, the
+boom of the death-dealing enemy guns, the shrieks of the shells
+and the fall of masonry parting from houses to which it had been
+attached for centuries, whilst from the shattered window frames
+the familiar sprite of the household looked ever for the children
+who came no longer across the thresholds of the homes. Verdun
+is no longer a refuge for all that is good and beautiful and tender,
+and so the sounds of the voices of children and of birds are heard
+no more. Both have flown; the children were evacuated with the
+civilians in the bitter months of February and March, and the birds,
+realising that there is no secure place in which to nest, have
+deserted not only Verdun but the whole of the surrounding district.
+
+We proceeded to a terrace overlooking the lower part of the town
+and witnessed a duel between the French and German artillery.
+The Germans were bombarding the barracks of Chevert, and from
+all around the French guns were replying. It was certainly a joy to
+note that for one boom of a German cannon there were certainly
+ten answers from the French guns. The French soldiers off duty
+should have been resting in the caves and dug-outs which have
+been prepared for them, but most of them were out on the
+terraces in different parts of the city, smoking and casually
+watching the effect of the German or of their own fire. I enquired of
+one Poilu whether he would be glad to leave Verdun, and he
+laughingly replied: "One might be worse off than here. This is the
+time of year that in peace times I should have been staying in the
+country with my mother-in-law."
+
+There is no talk of peace in Verdun. I asked one of the men when
+he thought the war would end. "Perfectly simple to reply to that,
+Mademoiselle; the war will end the day that hostilities cease."
+
+I believe that the Germans would not be sorry to abandon the
+siege of Verdun. In one of the French newspapers I saw the
+following verse:
+
+Boches, a l'univers votre zele importun
+Fait des "communiques" dont personne n'est dupe.
+Vous dites: "Nos soldats occuperont Verdun.
+Jusqu'ici c'est plutot Verdun qui les occupe."
+
+(You say that you soon will hold Verdun, Whilst really Verdun holds
+you.)
+
+We left the car and climbed through the ruined streets to the top of
+the citadel. No attempt has been made to remove any of the
+furniture or effects from the demolished houses. In those houses
+from which only the front had been blown away the spoons and
+forks were in some instances still on the table, set ready for the
+meal that had been interrupted.
+
+From windows lace curtains and draperies hung out over the
+fronts of the houses. Everywhere shattered doors, broken
+cupboards, drawers thrown open where the inhabitants had
+thought to try to save some of their cherished belongings, but had
+finally fled leaving all to the care of the soldiers, who protect the
+property of the inhabitants as carefully as if it were their own.
+
+It would be difficult to find finer custodians. I was told that at
+Bobigny, pres Bourget, there is on one of the houses the following
+inscription worthy of classical times:
+
+"The proprietor of this house has gone to the War. He leaves this
+dwelling to the care of the French. Long live France." And he left
+the key in the lock.
+
+The soldiers billeted in the house read the inscription, which met
+with their approval, and so far each regiment in passing had
+cleaned out the little dwelling and left it in perfect order.
+
+From the citadel we went down into the trenches which led to the
+lines at Thiaumont. The heat in the city was excessive but in the
+trenches it was delightfully cool, perhaps a little too cool. We heard
+the men make no complaints except that at times the life was a
+little "monotonous"! One man told me that he was once in a trench
+that was occupied at the same time by the French and the
+Germans. There was nothing between them but sand bags and a
+thick wall of clay, and day and night the French watched that wall.
+One day a slight scratching was heard. The men prepared to face
+the crumbling of the barrier when through a small hole popped out
+the head of a brown rabbit. Down into the trench hopped Mrs.
+Bunny, followed by two small bunnies, and although rabbit for
+lunch would have improved the menu the men had not the heart to
+kill her. On the contrary they fed her on their rations and at night-
+fall she departed, followed by her progeny.
+
+From all the dug-outs heads popped out and the first movement of
+surprise at seeing a woman in the trenches turned to a smile of
+delight, since the Poilu is at all times a chivalrous gentleman. One
+man was telling me of the magnificent work that had been
+accomplished by his "compagnie." I congratulated him and told
+him he must be happy to be in such a company. He swept off his
+iron casque, bowed almost to the ground, and answered: "Certainly
+I am happy in my company, Mademoiselle, but I am far happier in
+yours." The principal grief of the Poilus appeared to be that a shell
+two or three days before had destroyed the store of the great "dragee"
+(sugared almond) manufactory of Verdun. Before leaving the
+manufacturer had bequeathed his stock to the Army and they were
+all regretting that they had not been greedier and eaten up the
+"dragees" quicker.
+
+In the trenches near Verdun, as in the trenches in Flanders, you
+find the men talking little of war, but much of their homes and their
+families. I came once upon a group of Bretons. They had opened
+some tins of sardines and sitting around a bucket of blazing coals
+they were toasting the fish on the ends of small twigs. I asked
+them why they were wasting their energies since the fish were
+ready to be eaten straight from the tins. "We know," they replied,
+"but it smells like home." I suppose with the odour of the cooking
+fish, in the blue haze of the smoke, they saw visions of their
+cottages and the white-coiffed Bretonnes frying the fresh sardines
+that they had caught.
+
+The dusk was now falling and, entering the car, we proceeded
+towards the lower part of the town at a snail's pace in order not to
+draw the German fire. We were told that at the present time
+approximately one hundred shells a day still fall on Verdun, but at
+the time of the great attack the number was as high as eight
+hundred, whilst as many as two hundred thousand shells fell daily
+in and around Verdun.
+
+Just before we reached the entrance to the citadel the enemy
+began to shell the city and one of the shells exploded within two
+hundred feet of the car. We knew that we were near the entrance
+to the vaults of the citadel and could take refuge, so we left the car
+and proceeded on foot. Without thinking we walked in the centre of
+the road, and the sentinel at the door of the citadel began in
+somewhat emphatic French to recommend us to "longer les murs"
+(to hug the walls tightly). The Germans are well aware of the
+entrance to the citadel and daily shell the spot. If one meets a shell
+in the centre of the road it is obviously no use to argue, whilst in
+hugging the side of the wall there is a possibility of only receiving
+the fragments of the bursting shell.
+
+
+
+
+A Subterranean City
+
+
+
+The subterranean galleries of the citadel of Verdun were
+constructed by Vauban, and are now a hive of activity--barbers'
+shops, sweet shops, boot shops, hospitals, anything and.
+everything which goes to make up a small city.
+
+One of the young officers placed his "cell" at our disposal. The
+long galleries are all equipped with central heating and electric light
+and some of them have been divided off by wooden partitions or
+curtains like the dormitories in a large school. In the "cell" allocated
+to us we could see the loving touch of a woman's hand. Around
+the pillow on the small camp bed was a beautiful edging of Irish
+lace, and on the dressing-table a large bottle of Eau-de-Cologne.
+There is no reason to be too uncomfortable in Verdun when one
+has a good little wife to think of one and to send presents from
+time to time.
+
+Emerging from the galleries we met General Dubois, a great
+soldier and a kindly man, one who shares the daily perils of his
+men. The General invited us to remain and dine with him. He had
+that day received from General Nivelle his "cravate" as
+Commander of the Legion of Honour, and his officers were giving
+him a dinner-party to celebrate the event. "See how kind fate is to
+me," he added; "only one thing was missing from the feast--the
+presence of the ladies--and here you are."
+
+It would need the brush of Rembrandt to paint the dining-hall in the
+citadel of Verdun. At one long table in the dimly lighted vault sat
+between eighty and ninety officers, who all rose, saluted, and
+cheered as we entered. The General sat at the head of the table
+surrounded by his staff, and behind him the faces of the cooks
+were lit up by the fires of the stoves.
+
+Some short distance behind us was an air-shaft. It appears that
+about a week or a fortnight before our arrival a German shell,
+striking the top part of the citadel, dislodged some dust and gravel
+which fell down the air-shaft onto the General's head. He simply
+called the attendants to him and asked for his table to be moved
+forward a yard, as he did not feel inclined to sit at table with his
+helmet on.
+
+An excellent dinner--soup, roast mutton, fresh beans, salade
+Russe, Frangipane, dessert--and even champagne to celebrate
+the General's cravate--quite reassured us that people may die in
+Verdun of shells but not of hunger. We drank toasts to France, the
+Allies, and, silently, to the men of France who had died that we
+might live. I was asked to propose the health of the General and
+did it in English, knowing that he spoke English well. I told him that
+the defenders of Verdun would live in our hearts and memories;
+that on behalf of the whole British race I felt I might convey to him
+congratulations on the honour paid to him by France. I assured
+him that we had but one idea and one hope, the speedy victory of
+the Allied arms, and that personally my present desire was that
+every one of those present at table might live to see the flag of
+France waving over the whole of Alsace-Lorraine. They asked me
+to repeat a description of the flag of France which I gave first in
+Ottawa, so there, in the citadel of Verdun with a small French flag
+before me, I went back in spirit to Ottawa and remembered how I
+had spoken of the triumph of the flag of France: "The red, white
+and blue--the red of the flag of France a little deeper hue than in
+time of peace since it was dyed with the blood of her sons, the
+blood in which a new history of France is being written, volume on
+volume, page on page, of deeds of heroism, some pages completed
+and signed, others where the pen has dropped from the faltering
+hands and which posterity must needs finish. The white of the flag
+of France, not quite so white as in time of peace since thousands
+of her sons had taken it in their hands and pressed it to their lips
+before they went forward to die for it, yet without stain, since in all
+the record of the war there is no blot on the escutcheon of France.
+And the blue of the flag of France, true blue, torn and tattered with
+the marks of the bullets and the shrapnel, yet unfurling proudly in
+the breeze whilst the very holes were patched by the blue of the
+sky, since surely Heaven stands behind the flag of France."
+
+The men of Verdun were full of admiration for the glorious
+Commander of the Fort de Vaux. They told me that the fort was
+held, or rather the ruins of the fort, until the Germans were actually
+on the top and firing on the French beneath.
+
+I discussed with my neighbour the fact that the Germans had more
+hatred for us than for the French. He said the whole world would
+ridicule the Germans for the manner in which they had exploited
+the phrase "Gott strafe England," writing it even on the walls
+anywhere and everywhere. He added laughingly that it should not
+worry the English comrades. "When they read 'Gott strafe
+England' all they needed to reply was 'Ypres, Ypres, Hurrah!'"
+
+
+
+
+Poilu And Tommy
+
+
+
+He informed me that he had been stationed for some time with his
+regiment near the English troops, and there had been loud
+lamentations among the Poilus because they had been obliged to
+say good-bye to their English comrades. He added that the
+affection was not entirely disinterested. The English comrades had
+excellent marmalade and jam and other good things which they
+shared with their French brothers, who, whilst excellently fed, do
+not indulge in these luxuries. He told me a delightful tale of a
+French cook who, seeing an English soldier standing by, began to
+question him as to his particular branch of the service, informing
+him that he himself had had an exceedingly busy morning peeling
+potatoes and cleaning up the pots and pans. After considerable
+conversation he inquired of the English comrade what he did for
+his living. "Oh," replied the Englishman, "I get my living fairly easily;
+nothing half so strenuous as peeling potatoes. I am just a
+colonel."!!
+
+The clean-shaven Tommy is the beloved of all France. I remember
+seeing one gallant khaki knight carrying the market basket of a
+French maiden and repaying himself out of her store of apples. I
+regret to say his pockets bulged suspiciously. Whilst at a level
+crossing near by, the old lady in charge of the gate had an escort
+of "Tommies" who urged her to let the train "rip." This was
+somewhat ironical in view of the fact that the top speed in that part
+of the war zone was probably never more than ten miles an hour.
+
+Tommy is never alone The children have learned that he loves
+their company and he is always surrounded by an escort of
+youthful admirers. The children like to rummage in his pockets for
+souvenirs: he must spend quite a good deal of his pay purchasing
+sweets so that they may not be disappointed and that there may
+be something for his little friends to find. I remember seeing one
+Tommy, sitting in the dusty road with a large pot of marmalade
+between his legs, dealing out spoonfuls with perfect justice and
+impartiality to a circle of youngsters. He speaks to them of his own
+little "nippers" at home and they in turn tell him of their father who
+is fighting, of their mother who now works in the fields, and of baby
+who is fearfully ignorant, does not know the difference between the
+French and the "Engleesch" and who insisted on calling the great
+English General who had stayed at their farm "Papa." It matters
+little that they cannot understand each other, and it does not in the
+least prevent them from holding lengthy conversations.
+
+I told my companion at table that whilst visiting one of the hospitals
+in France I had heard how one Englishman had been sent into a
+far hospital in Provence by mistake. He was not seriously injured
+and promptly constituted himself king of the ward. On arrival he
+insisted on being shaved. As no shaving brush was available the
+"piou-piou" in the next bed lathered him with his tooth brush. The
+French cooking did not appeal to him, and he grumbled continuously.
+The directress of the hospital sent her own cook from her chateau
+to cater for Mr. Atkins. An elaborate menu was prepared. Tommy
+glanced through it, ordered everything to be removed, and commanded
+tea and toast. Toast-making is not a French art and the chateau
+chef was obliged to remain at the hospital and spend his time
+carefully preparing the toast and seeing that it was served in
+good condition. When Mr. Atkins felt so disposed he would
+summon a piou-piou to give him a French lesson or else request
+the various inmates of the ward to sing to him. He would in turn
+render that plaintive ditty, "Down by the Old Bull and Bush."
+A nurse who spoke a little English translated his song to the
+French soldiers! Whilst not desiring to criticise the rendez-vous
+selected by their "camerade anglais," they did not consider that
+"pres d'un vieux taureau" (near an old bull) was a safe or desirable
+meeting-place. When I explained to the nurse that "The Bull and Bush"
+was a kind of cabaret she hastened from ward to ward to tell the
+men that after all the Englishman might have selected a worse
+spot to entertain his girl. He was at once the joy and the despair
+of the whole hospital and the nurse had much trouble in consoling
+the patients when "our English" was removed.
+
+
+
+
+Abbreviated French
+
+
+
+When Tommy indulges in the use of the French language he
+abbreviates it as much as possible.
+
+One hot summer's day driving from Boulogne to Fort Mahon, half
+way down a steep hill we came upon two Tommies endeavouring
+to extract a motor cycle and a side-car from a somewhat difficult
+position. They had side-slipped and run into a small tree. The cycle
+was on one side and the side-car on the other, and a steel rod
+between had been rammed right into the wood through the force
+of the collision.
+
+My three companions and myself endeavoured to help the men to
+pull out the rod, but the united efforts of the six of us proved
+unavailing. We hailed a passing cart and tied the reins around the
+motor-cycle, but immediately the horse commenced to pull the
+leather of the reins snapped. Behind the cart walked a peasant.
+Only one adjective can possibly describe him: he was decidedly
+"beer-y." He made no attempt to help but passed from one Tommy
+to the other, patting them on their backs, assuring them "that with
+a little good-will all would be well." There was a dangerous glint in
+the youngest Tommy's eye, but in the presence of ladies he
+refrained from putting his thoughts into words. Finally, his patience
+evaporating, he suddenly turned on the peasant and shouted at
+him, "Ong! Ong!" It took me some time to grasp that this was
+Tommy's abbreviated version of "Allez vous en" (Clear out). In any
+event it proved quite useless, as he continued to pat the Tommies
+affectionately and to bombard them with impracticable suggestions.
+
+We were joined later by three villagers, two gendarmes and a
+postman, and, all pulling together, we managed to extract the rod
+from the tree. A large lorry was passing and on to it we heaved the
+wreckage. Up clambered the Tommies, followed by their unwelcome
+friend, who managed to sit on the only unbroken portion of the
+side-car. This was too much for Messrs. Atkins' equanimity.
+Limp with laughter, we watched them pass from sight amidst a
+chorus of "Ong! Ong!" followed by flights of oratory in the English
+tongue which do not bear repeating, but which were received by the
+peasant as expressions of deep esteem and to which he replied
+by endeavouring to kiss the Tommies and shouting, "Vive l'Angleterre!
+All right! Hoorah!"
+
+Our guiding officer began to show some signs of anxiety to have
+us leave before ten o'clock, but the good-byes took some time.
+Presents were showered upon us, German dragees (shell heads
+and pieces of shrapnel), and the real French dragees, the famous
+sweet of Verdun.
+
+We crept out of the city, but unfortunately at one of the dangerous
+crossroads our chauffeur mistook the route. A heavy bombardment
+was taking place and the French were replying. We were lucky enough
+to get on to the route and into safety before any shell fell near us.
+It appears that the Germans systematically bombard the roads
+at night, hoping to destroy the camions bringing up the food for
+the city, fresh munitions and men.
+
+We slept that night at Bar-le-Duc, and next morning saw the
+various ambulances and hospitals which the Service de Sante had
+particularly requested me to visit. I was impressed by the splendid
+organisation of the Red Cross even quite close to the firing line.
+
+
+
+
+The Brown And Black Sons Of France
+
+
+
+Passing through one tent hospital an Algerian called out to me:
+"Ohe, la blonde, viens ici! J'ai quelque chose de beau a te
+montrer." (Come here, fair girl, I have something pretty to show
+you.) He was sitting up in bed, and, as I approached, unbuttoned
+his bed-jacket and insisted on my examining the tag of his vest on
+which was written, "Leader, London." The vest had come in a
+parcel of goods from the London Committee of the French Red
+Cross, and I only wished that the angel of goodness and
+tenderness, who is the Presidente of the Croix Rouge, Mme. de la
+Panouse, and that Mr. D. H. Illingworth, Mr. Philip Wilkins, and all
+her able lieutenants, could have seen the pleasure on the face of
+this swarthy defender of France. In the next bed was a Senegalais
+who endeavoured to attract my attention by keeping up a running
+compliment to my compatriots, my King, and myself. He must
+have chanted fifty times: "Vive les English, Georges, et toil" He
+continued even after I had rewarded him with some cigarettes.
+The Senegalais and the Algerians are really great children,
+especially when they are wounded. I have seen convalescent
+Senegalais and Algerians in Paris spend hours in the Champs
+Elysees watching the entertainment at the open-air marionette
+theatre. The antics of the dolls kept them amused. They are
+admitted to the enclosure free, and there is no longer any room for
+the children who frequented the show in happier days. These latter
+form a disconsolate circle on the outside, whilst the younger ones,
+who do not suffer from colour prejudice, scramble onto the knees
+of the black soldiers.
+
+The sister in charge was a true daughter of the "Lady of the
+Lamp." Provided they are really ill, she sympathises with all the
+grumblers, but scolds them if they have reached the convalescent
+stage. She carries a small book in which she enters imaginary
+good points to those who have the tables by their beds tidy, and
+she pinned an invisible medal on the chest of a convalescent who
+was helping to carry trays of food to his comrades. She is indeed a
+General, saving men for France.
+
+Not a man escaped her attention, and as we passed through the
+tents she gave to each of her "chers enfants," black or white, a
+cheering smile or a kindly word. She did, however, whilst talking to
+us, omit to salute a Senegalais. Before she passed out of the tent
+he commenced to call after her, "Toi pas gentille aujourd'hui, moi
+battre toi." (You are not good to me to-day; me beat you.) This, it
+appears, is his little joke--he will never beat any one again, since
+he lost both his arms when his trench was blown up by a land
+mine.
+
+It was at Triancourt that I first saw in operation the motor-cars that
+had been sent out fitted with bath tubs for the troops, and also a
+very fine car fitted up by the London Committee of the French Red
+Cross as a moving dental hospital.
+
+I regret to add that a "Poilu" near by disrespectfully referred to it as
+"another of the horrors of war," adding that in times of peace there
+was some kind of personal liberty, whereas now "a man could not
+have toothache without being forced to have it ended, and that
+there was no possibility of escaping a dentist who hunted you
+down by motor."
+
+It was suggested that as I had had a touch of toothache the night
+before, I might take my place in the chair and give an example of
+British pluck to the assembled "Poilus." I hastened to impress on
+the surgeon that I hated notoriety and would prefer to remain
+modestly in the background. I even pushed aside with scorn the
+proffered bribe of six "Boche," buttons, assuring the man that "I
+would keep my toothache as a souvenir."
+
+At one of the hospitals beside the bed of a dying man sat a little
+old man writing letters. They told me that before the war he had
+owned the most flourishing wine shop in the village. He had fled
+before the approach of the German troops, but later returned to his
+village and installed himself in the hospital as scribe. He wrote
+from morning until night, and, watching him stretching his lean old
+hands, I asked him if he suffered much pain from writers' cramp.
+He looked at me almost reproachfully before answering, "Mademoiselle,
+it is the least I can do for my country; besides my pain is so slight
+and that of the comrades so great. I am proud, indeed proud,
+that at sixty-seven years of age I am not useless."
+
+I was shown a copy of the last letter dictated by a young French
+officer, and I asked to be allowed to copy it--it was indeed a letter
+of a "chic" type.
+
+
+Chers Parrain et Marraine,
+
+Je vous ecris a vous pour ne pas tuer Maman qu'un pareil coup
+surprendrait trop.
+
+J'ai ete blesse le ... devant ... J'ai deux blessures hideuses et je
+n'en aurai pas pour bien longtemps. Les majors ne me le cachent
+meme pas.
+
+Je pars sans regret avec la conscience d'avoir fait mon devoir.
+
+Prevenez done mes parents le mieux que vous pourrez; qu'ils ne
+cherchent pas a venir, ils n'en auraient pas le temps.
+
+Adieu vous tous que j'aimais.
+
+VIVE LA FRANCE!
+
+
+Dear Godfather and Godmother,
+
+I am writing to you so as not to kill Mother, whom such a shock
+would surprise too much. I was wounded on the ... at ... I have two
+terrible wounds and I cannot last long. The surgeons do not even
+attempt to conceal this from me. I go without regret, with the
+consciousness of having done my duty. Kindly break the news to
+my parents the best way you can; they should not attempt to come
+because they would not have time to reach me before the end.
+
+Farewell to all you whom I have loved.
+
+LONG LIVE FRANCE!
+
+
+Whilst loving his relatives tenderly, the last thought of the dying
+Frenchman is for his country. Each one dies as a hero, yet not one
+realises it. It would be impossible to show greater simplicity; they
+salute the flag for the last time and that is all.
+
+
+
+
+At General Nivelle's Headquarters
+
+
+
+From Triancourt we went straight to the Headquarters of General
+Nivelle. They had just brought him the maps rectified to mark the
+French advance. The advance had been made whilst we were
+standing on the terrace at Verdun the night before. We had seen
+the rockets sent up, requesting a "tir de barrage" (curtain of fire).
+The 75's had replied at once and the French had been able to
+carry out the operation.
+
+Good news had also come in from the Somme, and General
+Nivelle did not hesitate to express his admiration for the British
+soldiers.
+
+He said that there was no need to praise the first troops sent by
+Britain to France, every one knew their value, but it should be a
+great satisfaction to Britain to find that the new army was living up
+to the traditions of the old army.
+
+He added: "We can describe the new Army of Britain in two words:
+Ca mord--it bites."
+
+The Father of his own men, it is not surprising that General Nivelle
+finds a warm corner in his heart for the British Tommy, since his
+Mother was an Englishwoman.
+
+At lunch General Nivelle and the members of his staff asked many
+questions as to the work of the Scottish Women's Hospitals. I told
+them that what appealed to us most in our French patients was the
+perfect discipline and the gratitude of the men. We are all women
+in the Hospitals, and the men might take advantage of this fact to
+show want of discipline, but we never had to complain of lack of
+obedience. These soldiers of France may some of them before the
+war have been just rough peasants, eating, drinking, and sleeping;
+even having thoughts not akin to knighthood, but now, through the
+ordeal of blood and fire, each one of them has won his spurs and
+come out a chivalrous knight, and they bring their chivalry right into
+the hospitals with them. We had also learned to love them for their
+kindness to one another. When new wounded are brought in and
+the lights are low in the hospital wards, cautiously watching if the
+Nurse is looking (luckily Nurses have a way of not seeing
+everything), one of the convalescents will creep from his bed to
+the side of the new arrival and ask the inevitable question: "D'ou
+viens-tu?" (Where do you come from?) "I come from Toulouse,"
+replies the man. "Ah," says the enquirer, "my wife's Grandmother
+had a cousin who lived near Toulouse." That is quite a sufficient
+basis for a friendship. The convalescent sits by the bedside of his
+new comrade, holding the man's hand, whilst his wounds are
+being dressed, telling him he knows of the pain, that he, too, has
+suffered, and that soon all will be well.
+
+Lions to fight, ever ready to answer to the call of the defence of
+their country, yet these men of France are tender and gentle. In
+one hospital through which I passed there was a baby. It was a
+military hospital, and no civilian had any right there, but the
+medical officers who inspected the hospital were remarkably blind
+--none of them could ever see the baby. One of the soldiers
+passing through a bombarded village saw a little body lying in the
+mud, and although he believed the child to be dead he stooped
+down and picked it up. At the evacuating station the baby and the
+soldier were sent to the hospital together; the doctors operated
+upon the baby and took a piece of shrapnel from its back, and,
+once well and strong, it constituted itself lord and master and king
+of all it surveyed. When it woke in the morning it would call "Papa"
+and twenty fathers answered to its call. All the pent-up love of the
+men for their own little ones from whom they had been parted for
+so long they lavished on the tiny stranger, but all his affection and
+his whole heart belonged to the rough miner soldier who had
+brought him in. As the shadows fell one saw the man walking up
+and down the ward with the child in his arms, crooning the
+"Marseillaise" until the tired little eyes closed. He had obtained
+permission from the authorities to adopt the child as the parents
+could not be found, and remarked humorously: "Mademoiselle, it is
+so convenient to have a family without the trouble of being
+married!"
+
+What we must remember is that the rough soldier, himself blinded
+with blood and mud, uncertain whether he could ever reach a point
+of safety, yet had time to stoop and pick that little flower of France
+and save it from being crushed beneath the cannon wheels. I told
+General Nivelle that the hospital staff intended to keep the child for
+the soldier until the end of the war, and we all hoped that he might
+grow up to the glory of France and to the eternal honour of the
+tender-hearted fighter who had rescued him.
+
+After lunch we stood for some time watching the unending stream
+of camions proceeding into Verdun. I believe it has been stated
+that on the average one passed through the village every fifteen
+seconds, and that there are something like twelve thousand motor
+vehicles used in the defence of Verdun. The splendid condition of
+the roads and the absence of all confusion in the handling of this
+immense volume of traffic are a great tribute to the organising
+genius of the chiefs of the French Army.
+
+We left General Nivelle as General Petain predicted we should find
+him--smiling.
+
+
+
+
+Rheims
+
+
+
+We slept that night at Epernay, in the heart of the Champagne
+district. The soil of France is doing its best to keep the vines in
+perfect condition and to provide a good vintage to be drunk later to
+celebrate the victory of France and her Allies. The keeping of the
+roads in good condition is necessary for the rapid carrying out of
+operations on the Front, and a "marmite" hole is promptly filled if
+by a lucky shot the German batteries happen to tear up the
+roadway. We were proceeding casually along one road when a
+young officer rode up to us and told us to put on speed because
+we were under fire from a German battery which daily landed one
+or two shells in that particular portion of the roadway. It is
+wonderful how obedient one becomes at times! We promptly
+proceeded to hasten! After visiting General Debeney and obtaining
+from him the necessary authorisation and an officer escort, we
+entered Rheims.
+
+The cathedral is now the home of pigeons, and as they fly in and
+out of the blackened window-frames small pieces of the stained
+glass tinkle down on to the floor. The custodian of the cathedral
+told us that during the night of terror the German wounded, lying in
+the cathedral, not realising the strength and beauty of the French
+character under adversity, feared, seeing the cathedral in flames,
+that the populace might wreak vengeance on them, and that it was
+exceedingly difficult to get them to leave the cathedral. Many of the
+prisoners fled into corners and hid, and some of them even
+penetrated into the palace of the Archbishop, which was in flames.
+All the world knows and admires the bravery of the cure of the
+cathedral, M. Landrieux, who took upon himself the defence of the
+prisoners, for fear insults might be hurled at them. He knowingly
+risked his life, but when, next day, some of his confreres
+endeavoured to praise him he replied: "My friends, I never before
+realised how easy it was to die."
+
+One of the churches in the city was heavily draped in black, and I
+asked the sacristan if they had prepared for the funeral of a
+prominent citizen. He told me that they were that day bringing
+home the body of a young man of high birth of the neighbourhood,
+but that it was not for him that the church was decked in mourning.
+The draperies had hung there since August, 1914--"Since every
+son of Rheims who is brought home is as noble as the one who
+comes to-day, and alas! nearly every day brings us one of our
+children."
+
+We lunched in the hotel before the cathedral, where each shell
+hole has an ordinary white label stuck beside it with the date. The
+landlord remarked: "If you sit here long enough, and have the
+good luck to be in some safe part of the building, you may be able
+to go and stick a label on a hole yourself."
+
+After lunch we went out to the Chateau Polignac. To a stranger it
+would appear to be almost entirely destroyed, but when M. de
+Polignac visited it recently he simply remarked that it was "less
+spoilt than he had imagined." This was just one other example of
+the thousands one meets daily of the spirit of noble and peasant,
+"de ne pas s'en faire" but to keep only before them the one idea,
+Victory for France, no matter what may be the cost.
+
+We went later to call on the "75," chez elle. Madame was in a
+particularly comfortable home which had been prepared for her
+and where she was safe from the inquisitive eyes of the Taubes.
+The men of the battery were sitting round their guns, singing a
+somewhat lengthy ditty, each verse ending with a declamation and
+a description of the beauty of "la belle Suzanne." I asked them to
+whom Suzanne belonged and where the fair damsel resided. "Oh,"
+they replied, "we have no time to think of damsels called 'Suzanne'
+now. This is our Suzanne," and the speaker affectionately gave an
+extra rub with his coat sleeve to the barrel of the "75." By a
+wonderful system of trench work it is possible for the gunners, in
+case of necessity, to take refuge in the champagne vaults in the
+surrounding district, and it is in the champagne vaults that the
+children go daily to school, with their little gas masks hanging in
+bags on their arms. It appears that at first the tiny ones were
+frightened of the masks, but they soon asked, like their elders, to
+be also given a sack, and now one and all have learnt at the least
+alarm to put on their masks. There is no need to tell the children to
+hurry home. They realise that it is not wise to loiter in the streets for
+fear of the whistling shells. They are remarkably plucky, these
+small men and women of France.
+
+During one furious bombardment the children were safe in the
+vaults, but one small citizen began to cry bitterly. He was
+reproached by his comrades for cowardice, but he replied
+indignantly: "I fear nothing for myself. I am safe here, but there is
+no cellar to our house, and oh, what will happen to the little
+mother?" The teacher reassured him by telling him that his mother
+would certainly take refuge in somebody's else cellar.
+
+On leaving Rheims we passed through various small hamlets
+where the houses had been entirely destroyed, and which now
+had the appearance of native villages, as the soldiers had
+managed to place thatched roofs on any place which had any
+semblance of walls standing.
+
+At Villars Coterets the Guard Champetre sounded the "Gare a
+Vous!" Four Taubes were passing overhead, so we took refuge in
+the hotel for tea. The enemy did no damage in that particular
+village, but in the next village of Crepy-en-Valois a bomb killed one
+child and injured five women.
+
+
+
+
+At The Headquarters Of The Generalissimo
+
+
+
+At his Headquarters next morning I had the honour of being
+received by Generalissimo Joffre and telling him of the admiration
+and respect which we felt for him and for the magnificent fighting
+spirit of the troops under his able command. He replied modestly
+by speaking of the British army. He referred to the offensive on the
+Somme, and said, "You may well be proud of your young soldiers;
+they are excellent soldiers, much superior to the Germans in every
+way, a most admirable infantry; they attack the Germans hand to
+hand with grenades or with the bayonet and push them back
+everywhere; the Germans have been absolutely stupefied to find
+such troops before them." The General then paid a tribute to the
+Canadian and Australian troops and told me that that day the
+Australians had taken new territory, adding, "And not only have
+they taken it, but, like their British and Canadian brothers, what
+they take they will hold."
+
+I explained to General Joffre that, whilst I was not collecting
+autographs, I had with me the menu of the dinner in the Citadel at
+Verdun and that it would give me great pleasure to have his name
+added to the signatures already on that menu. All the signatures
+were on one side, so I turned the menu over in order to offer him a
+clear space, but he turned it back again, saying, "Please let me
+sign on this side. I find myself in good company with the defenders
+of Verdun."
+
+At departing he said to me, "We may all be happy now since
+certainly we are on the right side of the hill." ("Nous sommes sur la
+bonne pente.")
+
+In case this little story should fall into the hands of any woman who
+has spent her time working for the men at the Front, I would like to
+tell her the great pleasure it is to them to receive parcels, no matter
+what they contain. Fraternity and Equality reign supreme in the
+trenches, and the man counts himself happy who receives a little
+more than the others, since he has the joy and the pleasure of
+sharing his store of good things with his comrades. There is
+seldom a request made to the French behind the lines that they do
+not attempt to fulfil. I remember last winter, passing through a town
+in the provinces, I noticed that the elderly men appeared to be
+scantily clad in spite of the bitterness of the weather. It appeared
+that the call had gone forth for fur coats for the troops, and all the
+worthy citizens of the town forwarded to the trenches their caracul
+coats. Only those who are well acquainted with French provincial
+life can know what it means to them to part with these signs of
+opulence and commercial success.
+
+It is perhaps in the Post Offices that you find yourself nearest to
+the heart of "France behind the lines."
+
+One morning I endeavoured to send a parcel to a French soldier. I
+took my place in a long line of waiting women bound on the same
+errand. A white-haired woman before me gave the Post Office
+Clerk infinite trouble. They are not renowned for their patience and
+I marvelled at his gentleness until he explained. "Her son died five
+weeks ago, but she still continues to send him parcels."
+
+To another old lady he pointed out that she had written two
+numbers on the parcel. "You don't want two numbers, Mother.
+Which is your boy's number? Tell me and I will strike out the
+other." "Leave them both," she answered. "Who knows whether
+my dear lad will be there to receive the parcel. If he is not, I want it
+to go to some other Mother's son."
+
+Affection means much to these men who are suffering, and they
+respond at once to any sympathy shown to them. One man informed
+us with pride that when he left his native village he was "decked
+like an altar of the Blessed Virgin on the first of May." In
+other words, covered with flowers.
+
+There are but few lonely soldiers now, since those who have no
+families to write to them receive letters and parcels from the
+Godmothers who have adopted them. The men anxiously await
+the news of their adopted relatives and spend hours writing replies.
+They love to receive letters, but, needless to say, a parcel is even
+more welcome.
+
+I remember seeing one man writing page after page. I suggested
+to him that he must have a particularly charming Godmother.
+"Mademoiselle," he replied, "I have no time for a Godmother since
+I myself am a Godfather." He then explained that far away in his
+village there was a young assistant in his shop, "And God knows
+the boy loves France, but both his lungs are touched, so they
+won't take him, but I write and tell him that the good God has given
+me strength for two, that I fight for him and for myself, and that we
+are both doing well for France." I went back in imagination to the
+village. I could see the glint in the boy's eyes, realised how the
+blood pulsed quicker through his veins at the sight of, not the
+personal pronoun "I" in the singular, but the plural "We are doing
+well for France." For one glorious moment he was part of the hosts
+of France and in spirit serving his Motherland. It is that spirit of the
+French nation that their enemies will never understand.
+
+On one occasion a young German officer, covered with mud from
+head to foot, was brought before one of the French Generals. He
+had been taken fighting cleanly, and the General was anxious to
+show him kindness. He asked him if he would not prefer to cleanse
+himself before examination. The young German drew himself up
+and replied: "Look at me, General. I am covered from head to foot
+with mud, and that mud is the soil of France--you will never
+possess as much soil in Germany." The General turned to him
+with that gentle courtesy which marks the higher commands in
+France and answered: "Monsieur, we may never possess as
+much soil in Germany, but there is something that you will never
+possess, and, until you conquer it, you cannot vanquish France,
+and that is the spirit of the French people."
+
+The French find it difficult to understand the arrogance which
+appears ingrained in the German character and which existed
+before the War.
+
+I read once that in the guests' book of a French hotel a Teutonic
+visitor wrote:
+
+"L'AIlemagne est la premiere nation du monde."
+
+The next French visitor merely added:
+
+"Yes, 'Allemagne is the first country of the world' if we take them in
+alphabetical order."
+
+
+
+
+To The Glory Of The Women Of France
+
+
+
+I left the war zone with an increased respect, if this were possible,
+for the men of France. They have altered their uniforms, but the
+spirit is unchanged. They are no longer in the red and blue of the
+old days, but in shades of green, grey and blue, colours blending
+to form one mighty ocean--wave on wave of patriotism--beating
+against and wearing down the rocks of military preparedness of
+forty years, and as no man has yet been able to say to the Ocean
+stop, so no man shall cry "Halt" to the Armies of France.
+
+I have spoken much of the men of France, but the women have
+also earned our respect--those splendid peasant women, who
+even in times of peace worked, and now carry a double burden on
+their shoulders--the middle-class women, endeavouring to keep
+together the little business built up by the man with years of toil,
+stinting themselves to save five francs to send a parcel to the man
+at the Front that he may not suspect that there is not still every
+comfort in the little homestead--the noble women of France, who in
+past years could not be seen before noon, since my lady was at
+her toilette, and who can be seen now, their hands scratched and
+bleeding, kneeling on the floors of the hospitals scrubbing, proud
+and happy to take their part in national service. The men owe
+much of their courage to the attitude of the women who stand
+behind them, turning their tears to smiles to urge their men to even
+greater deeds of heroism.
+
+In one of our hospitals was a young lad of seventeen who had
+managed to enlist as an "engage volontaire" by lying as to his age.
+His old Mother came to visit him, and she told me he was the last
+of her three sons; the two elder ones had died the first week of the
+war at Pont Mousson, and her little home had been burned to the
+ground. The boy had spent his time inventing new and terrible
+methods of dealing with the enemy, but with his Mother he
+became a child again and tenderly patted the old face. Seeing the
+lad in his Mother's arms, and forgetting for one moment the spirit
+of the French nation, I asked her if she would not be glad if her boy
+was so wounded that she might take him home. She was only an
+old peasant woman, but her eyes flashed, her cheeks flushed with
+anger and turning to me she said, "Mademoiselle, how dare you
+say such a thing to me? If all the Mothers, Wives and Sweethearts
+thought as you, what would happen to the country? Gustave has
+only one thing to do, get well quickly and fight for Mother France."
+
+Because these women of France have sent their men forth to die,
+eyes dry, with stiff lips and head erect, do not think that they do not
+mourn for them. When night casts her kindly mantle of darkness
+over all, when they are hidden from the eyes of the world, it is then
+that the proud heads droop and are bent upon their arms, as the
+women cry out in the bitterness of their souls for the men who
+have gone from them. Yet they realise that behind them stands the
+greatest Mother of all, Mother France, who sees coming towards
+her, from her frontiers, line on line of ambulances with their burden
+of suffering humanity, yet watches along other routes her sons
+going forth in thousands, laughter in their eyes, songs on their lips,
+ready and willing to die for her. France draws around her her
+tattered and bloodstained robe, yet what matters the outer
+raiment? Behind it shines forth her glorious, exultant soul, and she
+lifts up her head rejoicing and proclaims to the world that when she
+appealed man, woman, and child--the whole of the French nation--
+answered to her call.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11679 ***