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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/11902-0.txt b/11902-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9fed4e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4314 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 *** +A + +PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN. + + + + +BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM, + +THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY. + + +1846. + + + * * * * * + + +[Transcriber's Note: [=a] is representing a-macron, unicode character +U0101, and [=A] is representing A-macron, unicode character U0100. +This is usually pronounced as a long a. +There are around 240 instances of vowels accented with macrons +(straight line above), mostly A-macron or a-macron, with one instance +of e-macron, and five instances of u-macron, and one u that should be +u-macron(Dao[=u]b) and isn't (Daoub). + +Use of the macron is _not_ consistent throughout the text... + +...and the spelling of some place names is not consistent either: +e.g. Toorkisth[=an]; Toorkisthan; Toorkistan. + + +(There are also a number of words with 'unusual' spellings. + +These spellings I have corrected: + +territories for territorities; retrograde for retrogade; amongst for amonst. + + +These 'period' spellings I have left intact: + +befel, chace, surprized, loth, gallopped, gallopping, secresy, shew, shewed, +shewing, preeminence, handfull, negociation, threshhold, trellice, +picketted, barricadoed, compaign. + +I have also retained M'Naghten for the modern McNaghten.)] + + * * * * * + + + + +[Illustration: Drawn by Mr Gompertz Pelham Richardson Litho. View of +the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger +Cavern] + + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: MAP OF CABUL AND THE KOHISTAN WITH THE ROUTE FOR +KOOLLUM] + + + * * * * * + + +A PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN. + +BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM, THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY. + +1846. + + + + +TO THE + +RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARNARVON, HIGHCLERE CASTLE. + + +MY LORD, + +Having received your Lordship's permission to dedicate to you this my +first essay as an Author, I beg to tender my best acknowledgements for +the honour, and for the interest you have so kindly expressed in the +success of the following pages. Under such favourable auspices a +successful result may be confidently anticipated by + +Your Lordship's Obliged and obedient servant, + +ROLLO BURSLEM. + +HAREWOOD LODGE, HAMPSHIRE. + + + + +TO THE READER. + + +The following pages are literally what they profess to be, a record +of a few weeks snatched from a soldier's life in Affghanist[=a]n, and +spent in travels through a region which few Europeans have ever visited +before. The notes from which it is compiled were written on the desert +mountains of Central Asia, with very little opportunity, as will be +easily supposed, for study or polish. Under these circumstances, it can +hardly be necessary to deprecate the criticism of the reader. +Composition is not one of the acquirements usually expected of a +soldier. What is looked for in his narrative is not elegance, but +plainness. He sees more than other people, but he studies less, and the +strangeness of his story must make up for the want of ornament. I can +hardly expect but that the reader may consider the style of my chapters +inferior to many of those which are supplied to the public by those who +are fortunate enough to enjoy good libraries and plenty of leisure; two +advantages which a soldier on service seldom experiences. But this I +cannot help. Such as they are, I offer him my unadorned notes; and +perhaps he will be good enough to let one thing compensate another, and +to recollect that if the style of the book is different from what he +sometimes sees, yet the scenery is so too. If instead of a poetical +composition he gets a straightforward story, yet instead of the Rhine +or the Lakes he gets a mountain chain between Independent Tartary and +China. + +WALMAR BARRACKS, _March_, 1846. + + + + +A PEEP INTO TOORKISTH[=A]N.[*] + +[* Note: A portion of the following pages in their original form has +appeared in the Asiatic Journal.] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +During the summer of 1840, the aspect of the political horizon in +Affghanist[=a]n afforded but slight grounds for prognosticating the +awful catastrophe which two short years after befel the British arms. +Dost Mahommed had not yet given himself up, but was a fugitive, and +detained by the King of Bokhara, while many of the principal Sirdars +had already tendered their allegiance to Shah Sooja: and there was in +truth some foundation for the boast that an Englishman might travel +in safety from one end of Affghanist[=a]n to the other. An efficient +force of tried soldiers occupied Ghuzni, Cabul, Candahar, Jellalabad, +and the other strongholds of the country; our outposts were pushed +to the north-west some fifty miles beyond Bamee[=a]n, the Khyber +and Bolun passes were open, and to the superficial observer all was +tranquil. The elements of strife indeed existed, but at the time when +I took the ramble which these pages attempt to describe, British +power was paramount, and the rumour was already rife of the speedy +diminution of the force which supported it. + +Notwithstanding the modern rage for exploration, but few of our +countrymen have hitherto pierced the stupendous barrier of the +Paropamisan range; but the works of Hanway, Forster, Moorcroft, and +Trebeck, Masson, and Sir Alexander Burnes, convey most valuable +information concerning the wild regions through which they travelled, +and I am bound in simple honesty to confess that my little book does +not aspire to rank with publications of such standard merit. An +author's apology, however humble and sincere, is seldom attended to +and more rarely accepted. Surely I am not wrong in assuming that a +feeling of mournful interest will pervade the bosom of those who have +the patience to follow my perhaps over-minute description of places +whose names may be already familiar to them as connected with the +career of those bold spirits who in life devoted their energies to the +good of their country and the advancement of science, and who in the +hour of disaster, when every hope was dead, met their fate with the +unflinching gallantry of soldiers and the patient resignation of +Christians. + +My lamented friend, Lieutenant Sturt, of the Bengal Engineers, was +one of the foremost of those who endeavoured, during the critical +situation of the Cabul force previous to its annihilation, to rally +the drooping spirits of the soldiers; and without wishing in any way +to reflect on others, it may fairly be said that his scientific +attainments and personal exertions contributed not a little to those +partial successes, which to the sanguine seemed for a moment to +restore the favourable aspect of our military position. But I forbear +from now dwelling upon these circumstances, lest I might undesignedly +give pain to those who still survive the fatal event, merely stating +my humble opinion that the memory of any mistake committed, either in +a political or military light, will by the noble-minded be drowned in +sorrow for the sufferings and death of so many thousands of brave men. + +In the month of June, 1840, Lieutenant Sturt was ordered to survey the +passes of the Hindoo Koosh, and I obtained leave from my regiment, +then in camp at Cabul, for the purpose of accompanying him; my object +was simply to seek pleasant adventures; the "_cacoethes ambulandi_" +was strong upon me, and I thirsted to visit the capital of ancient +Bactria; the circumstances which prevented our reaching Balkh will +hereafter be detailed, but the main object of the expedition was +attained, as Sturt executed an excellent map of the passes alluded to, +and satisfactorily demonstrated that almost all the defiles of this +vast chain, or rather group of mountains, may be turned, and that it +would require a large and active well-disciplined force to defend the +principal ones. I have made every possible inquiry as to the fate of +the results of Sturt's labours, but fear that they too were lost +in the dreadful retreat. Whatever still exists must be in the +Quarter-Master General's Department in India, far out of my reach, so +that I am obliged again to request the indulgence of my reader for the +want of a proper map on which he might, if he felt so inclined, trace +our daily progress,[*] and to crave his forgiveness if I occasionally +repeat what has been far more ably related by Moorcroft and the other +authors whom I have already mentioned. + +[* Note: Since receiving the proof sheets for correction I have been +kindly supplied by my friend Major Wade with a map taken principally +from the one executed by the late Lieutenant Sturt.] + +To the traveller whose experience of mountain scenery is confined to +Switzerland, the bold rocks and rich though narrow valleys of the +frontiers of Toorkisth[=a]n offer all the charms of novelty; the lower +ranges of hills are gloomy and shrubless, contrasting strikingly with +the dazzling, yet distant splendour of the snowy mountains. It is +an extraordinary fact, that throughout the whole extent of country +occupied by these under features, which presents every variety of form +and geological structure, there are scarcely any hills bearing trees +or even shrubs; every valley, however, is intersected by its native +stream, which in winter pursues its headlong course with all the +impetuosity of a mountain torrent, but in the summer season glides +calmly along as in our native meadows. + +The multitude and variety of well-preserved fossils which are imbedded +in the different strata of the Toorkisth[=a]n hills would amply reward +the researches of the Geologist, and to the Numismatologist this +portion of Asia proves eminently interesting, Balkh and other +localities in its vicinity abounding in ancient coins, gems, and other +relics of former days; and I much regret that I was unable to reach +the field from whence I expected to gather so rich a harvest. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +In accordance with the golden rule of restricting our baggage to the +least possible weight and compass, we allowed ourselves but one pony a +piece for our necessaries, in addition to what were required for our +small tent and cooking utensils, Sturt's surveying instruments being +all carried by Affgh[=a]n porters whom he hired at Cabul for that +purpose. + +On the 13th of June we commenced our ramble, intending to proceed +to Balkh by the road through Bamee[=a]n, as we should then have to +traverse the principal passes of the Hindoo Khosh, and our route would +be that most likely to be selected by an army either advancing from +Bokh[=a]r[=a] on Cabul or moving in the opposite direction. The +plundering propensities of the peasantry rendered an escort absolutely +necessary, and ours consisted of thirty Affghans belonging to one of +Shah Soojah's regiments, under the command of Captain Hopkins. As +Government took this opportunity of sending a lac[*] of rupees for the +use of the native troop of Horse-Artillery stationed at Bamee[=a]n, +our military force was much increased by the treasure-guard of eighty +Sipahis and some remount horses; so that altogether we considered our +appearance quite imposing enough to secure us from any insult from +the predatory tribes through whose haunts we proposed travelling. Our +first day's march was merely to make a fair start, for we encamped two +miles north-west of the city in a grove of mulberry-trees, and the +wind, as usual in summer, blowing strong in the day-time, laid the +produce at our feet; so that by merely stretching out our hands, we +picked up the fruit in abundance; for although the sun was powerful, +we preferred the open air under the deep foliage to the closeness of +a tent. During the early part of the night an alarm was raised +throughout our small camp, and as we knew the vicinity of Cabul to +be infested with the most persevering thieves, we naturally enough +attributed the disturbance to their unwelcome visit, but it turned out +to be only one of the remount horses, which having broken away from +his picket was scampering furiously round our tents, knocking over +the chairs, tables, and boxes which had been placed in readiness for +packing outside the tent door. The neighing of the other horses, +and their struggles to get loose and have a fight with their more +fortunate companion, added to the braying of donkeys, barking of dogs, +and groaning of the camels, gave me the notion of a menagerie in a +state of insurrection. The affair looked serious when the animal began +to caper amongst Sturt's instruments, but luckily we secured him +before any damage was done, though for some time theodolites, +sextants, artificial horizons, telescopes, and compasses were in +imminent danger. The worst of an occurrence of this kind is, that your +servants once disturbed never think of returning to rest when quiet is +restored, but sit up for the remainder of the night, chatting over the +event with such warmth and animation, as effectually to keep their +master awake as well as each other. We started next morning at four, +and marched about six miles and a half, the distances being always +measured with a perambulator, the superintending of which gave Sturt +considerable trouble, as it was necessary to have an eye perpetually +on the men who guided it, lest they should have recourse to the usual +practice of _carrying_ the machine, whenever the nature of the ground +made that mode of transportation more convenient than _wheeling_. +This, together with taking bearings, and the other details of +surveying, gave my companion plenty of occupation, not only during the +march, but for the rest of the day when halted. + +We were now encamped close to a village called Kulla Kazee, a place of +no very good repute as regarding honesty; indeed, we were well aware +of the predatory propensities of our neighbours; but we seemed +destined to experience more annoyance from the great apprehension of +being attacked which existed amongst our followers, than from any +well-founded anticipation of it; their fears were not totally +groundless, as it must be confessed that to a needy and disorganized +population the bait of a lac of rupees was very tempting. + +[*Note: lac, lakh (-k), n. (Anglo-Ind.). A hundred thousand +(usu._ of rupees)_.] + +We had chosen a picturesque little garden for our resting place, the +treasure and remount horses with the Sipahi guard being encamped about +half a mile off to our rear. At about eleven at night the European +sergeant in charge of the horses burst into our tent in some +consternation, stating that a large band of robbers were descending +from the adjacent hills to attack the treasure. Sturt immediately +jumped up, and mounting his horse gallopped off to the supposed scene +of action. All was quiet _without_ the camp; _within_ there was a +terrible bustle, which Sturt at last succeeded in allaying by sending +out patrols in various direction, who reported that nothing could be +either heard or seen of the dreaded robbers. Being rather averse to +these nocturnal diversions, especially as they promised to be of +frequent occurrence, I made careful inquiries to ascertain if there +were any real foundation for the alarm, but all I could learn was, +that the neighbourhood had always been noted for robbers, who hasten +towards the point upon the report of any party worth plundering +passing near any of their forts. Possibly some robbers had gained +intelligence of our treasure, and had actually appeared on the hills, +but on discovering the strength of our party had retired. + +The next day our route lay through delicious fields of ripening +clover, in such profusion that the air was impregnated with its +agreeable perfume, to a small fort called Oorghundee, remarkable +chiefly for being the head-quarters of the oft-mentioned thieves, of +whom I daresay the reader is as tired as we were after the mere dread +they inspired had caused us to pass two sleepless nights. But we were +now determined to assume a high tone, and summoning the chief of the +fort, or, in other words, the biggest villain, into our presence, +we declared that in the event of our losing a single article of our +property or being annoyed by a night attack, we would retaliate in the +morning by cutting the surrounding crops and setting fire to the fort! + +The military reader, especially if conversant with some of the +peculiarities of eastern discipline, will question how far we should +have been justified in carrying our threats into execution. I can +assure him we had no such intention; but be that as it may, our +threats had the desired effect, and at length we enjoyed an +uninterrupted night's rest. + +On the morning of the 16th we proceeded to Koteah Shroof, the whole +distance being about ten miles: but the first three brought us to the +extremity of the beautiful valley through which we had been travelling +ever since we left Cabul. The aspect of the country in the immediate +vicinity of our path has been well described by one of the most +lamented victims to Affghan ingratitude and treachery. "If the reader +can imagine," writes Sir Alexander Burnes, "a plain about twenty +miles in circumference, laid out with gardens and fields in pleasing +irregularity, intersected by three rivulets which wind through it by +a serpentine course, and dotted with innumerable little forts and +villages, he will have before him one of the meadows of Cabul." To +complete the picture the reader must conceive the grey barren hills, +which, contrasting strongly with the fertility of the plains they +encompass, are themselves overlooked by the eternal snows of the +Indian Caucasus. To the English exile these valleys have another +attraction, for in the hot plains of Hindoostan artificial grasses are +rarely to be found, and the rich scent of luxuriant clover forcibly +reminds the wanderer of the sweet-smelling fields of his native land. + +But these pleasing associations were soon dispelled by the steep and +rugged features of the pass through which we ascended on leaving the +plain. It is called the Suffaed K[=a]k or White Earth, and we found by +the barometer, that the gorge of the ravine was about a thousand feet +above our last encamping ground. The hills on either side were ragged +and abrupt, but of insignificant height: the length of the pass itself +was about two miles, and from its head to Koteah Shroof the road was +stony and difficult; but, as we had been careful at starting not to +overload our baggage animals, they got through their work without +being much distressed. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +I find it difficult to convey to the reader an adequate conception +of the strange character of the hilly country we had now entered: no +parts of Wales or even the varied groupings of the Swiss mountains +offer a correct analogy. After passing the defile of the Suffaed +K[=a]k the hills recede to a distance of about two miles on either +side of the road, and the whole space thus offered to the labours of +the peasant is very highly cultivated; but the barren rocks soon hem +in the narrow valley, and as you approach nearer and nearer you +find your enchanting gardens transformed into a dreary and desolate +defile,--this succession of small plots of fertile ground, alternating +with short rugged passes, extends to Julrez, ten miles beyond Koteah +Shroof; which latter place is an insignificant fort, situated in the +centre of one of the little green spots so pleasingly varying this +part of the country. + +At Koteah Shroof we gained the banks of the Cabul river, a placid +flowing stream, and as the neighbourhood of our camp did not offer any +features of peculiar interest, I determined to try my luck in fishing; +but first I had to tax my ingenuity for implements, as I had neither +rod, line, nor net. A willow stick and a bit of string was all I could +command; and yet my primitive apparatus was very successful, for the +fish also were primitive, affording me ample sport and taking the bait +with extraordinary eagerness. My occupation attracted the attention of +a few peasants who gathered round me, and stood wondering what potent +charm attached to the string could entice the fish from their native +element. I endeavoured to explain the marvel, but was utterly +unsuccessful; indeed, the peasants did not accept my explanation, +which they evidently considered as a fabrication invented to deceive +them and conceal my supernatural powers. The inhabitants of these +valleys seemed a simple and inoffensive race, and, as in Europe, their +respectful demeanour became more conspicuous as we increased our +distance from the capital. + +With regard to the state of cultivation of this valley--in which it +resembles others generally throughout Affghanistan--wherever there is +soil enough to hold the seed, the Affgh[=a]n husbandman appears to +make the most of it. We found here and there in profusion the pear, +apple, cherry, mulberry, and luxuriant vine, and in some situations +wheat, with an under-crop of clover. + +On the 17th we proceeded to Julrez, a collection of wretched hovels +of no interest, and on the 18th, after a march of ten miles through +a succession of valleys and defiles, we reached the Kuzzilbash fort, +Suffaed Kulla. About two miles before we arrived at our encamping +ground we passed near the Sir-e-chusm or "fountain head," one of +the sources of the Cabul river; it is a large pool stocked with a +multitude of enormous fish that are held sacred by the few inhabitants +of the adjoining hamlets, and which are daily fed by an aged fanatic, +who for many years has devoted himself to their protection. As it +would be deemed in the highest degree sacrilegious to eat any of these +monsters, they are never molested, and are so tame as to come readily +to the hand when offered food. Of course, my necessary compliance with +the prejudices of the guardian of the fish prevented the exercise of +my Waltonian propensities. + +A little further on is a remarkable bourj or _watch-tower_ isolated on +a projecting rock, and supposed to have been built for the purpose of +giving the chiefs of the little plain below, when at variance with the +neighbouring mountaineers, notice of the approaching invader. At this +point the valley is extremely narrow, being almost choked up with huge +masses of rock hurled by the violence of some convulsion of nature +from the sides of the impending precipices. + +There are several minor forts in the vicinity of Suffaed Kulla, which +is the largest, and is at present occupied by a Kuzzilbash chief, +who took advantage a few years ago of the temporary absence of its +rightful owner, and acting upon the principle of "might makes right," +possessed himself forcibly of it, and has held it ever since. He +treated us with great kindness and attention, sending us most +acceptable presents of fruit, with food for our followers and cattle. + +We here experienced to a great degree that remarkable daily variation +of temperature so peculiar to these regions: in the gully the wind was +bleak and cold, but when encamped under the shelter of the fort the +heat from the sun's rays reflected from the smooth surface of the bare +rock was so intense that the thermometer rose to 100 of Fahrenheit. +While in camp at Cabul I frequently experienced the same rapid change, +for it would sometimes be a hard frost at day-break and an Indian +summer heat at mid-day. + +On the 19th of June we started very early, as the tremendous Oonnye +pass rising to the height of 11,400 feet lay before us, and we had a +full ten miles march ere we could reach our proposed halting place at +the village of Uart. We soon entered the mouth of the pass, which was +girt on either side by magnificent precipices; the road was narrow and +slippery--of course without even an apology for a parapet--running +along a natural ledge on the verge of a perpendicular cliff, and so +_sheer_ was the side, that from a horse's back you might +sometimes have dropped a stone into the apparently bottomless +ravine--bottomless, for the rays of a noon-day sun have never broken +the eternal darkness of the awful chasm beneath. Had horse, camel, +or man missed their footing whilst scrambling up the steep and stony +pathway, nothing could have saved them from being dashed to pieces. +Frequently, when rounding some projecting crag, the small treasure-box +fastened on the camel literally overhung the abyss, and I held my +breath and the pulsations of my heart increased as I watched horse +after horse and camel after camel weather the critical point. + +Before we reached Uart a poor woman of the Huzareh tribe (the most +persecuted and enslaved throughout these regions) came and complained +to us that her child had been seized by a band of plunderers, as she +supposed, to be sold into slavery. Sturt immediately despatched a +couple of the guard to recover her child if possible, and the poor +woman went off with the two soldiers in the full confidence that her +escort would be successful. I own that I myself was not so sanguine, +but I had yet to learn how much even in these wild mountains the +British name was respected. The mother's hopes were realized, and in +the course of the day the child was recovered, having been instantly +surrendered on the requisition being made; but I was surprised to see +instead of a helpless child a fine handsome well-knit young man. The +gratitude of the poor woman was sincere; she had nothing, she said, to +offer in return, but prayed that every blessing might descend upon us +and our most distant relations; that we might all become great kings; +and that finally we might be successful in conquering the country we +were proceeding to invade: vain were our endeavours to set before her +in their true light the object of our expedition. + +We arrived rather late at Uart after a hard day's work, and were not +much gratified by the aspect of our camp, which was disagreeable, from +its great elevation and its situation on a bleak table-land, thinly +covered with a short grass, with the strong winds of the Hindoo Khoosh +sweeping across it. + +Here a young woman came to our tent asking permission to avail +herself of our protection, as she was proceeding to the frontiers +of Toorkisth[=a]n to purchase slave girls for the Cabul market. She +accompanied us to Bamee[=a]n, and there remained. I heard afterwards +that she did not succeed according to her anticipations, and that on +her return to Cabul she died of fever. Our English ideas of slavery +drawn from our knowledge of the varied sufferings endured by the +thousands who are annually exported from the western shores of Africa, +are opposite to those entertained in the east even by the victims +themselves. The Asiatic and African slave are alike in name alone; the +treatment of the latter in those parts of America where, spite of the +progress of civilization and the advancement of true principles +of philanthropy over the world, slavery is still tolerated and +encouraged, has been too well and too often described for me to +venture a word of my own opinion, but in Asia, in many cases, the loss +of liberty is hardly felt. + +The situation of the domestic slave of Egypt (though, strictly +speaking, he must be classed under the head of "African") is analogous +to that observable generally in the east; and I form my opinion partly +from an anecdote related to me by my friend Captain Westmacott, of the +37th Native Infantry, who was killed in the retreat from Cabul, which +I will venture to repeat as an illustration. He was proceeding by the +overland route from England to India, and remained some time in Egypt +to view its splendid antiquities. On making inquiries with the object +of procuring servants, he was informed that he had better purchase +slaves. The civilized notions of my friend revolted at the idea, but +he was assured that it was a method very generally adopted, as he +would find it extremely difficult to hire servants, and if successful, +they would prove the veriest rascals on the face of the earth. He +reluctantly consented, and had them purchased. On his departure for +India he summoned his slaves, and informed them that as they had +behaved themselves well he would give them their freedom. They looked +astounded and burst into tears, reminding him that instead of being +kind to them he had shewn cruelty, "for where," said they, "shall we +go now? Who will have anything to say to us? We shall starve and die; +but if your highness will sell us again, we shall be well fed and +clothed." I confess I do not see why the servants, if they really were +so anxious to return to slavery, should not have sold themselves, and +pocketed their own value. Throughout Afghanist[=a]n a slave is treated +as an humble friend, and is generally found to be faithful and +trustworthy. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +After surmounting the Oonnye Pass, which is one of the principal +defiles of the Hindoo Khoosh, we proceeded on the 20th to +Gurdundew[=a]l, a distance from Uart of about six and a half miles. +The road was a gradual descent, and very rugged, leading along the +bases of barren rocks, till we debouched upon the river Elbon, as +it is termed by the natives, but the Helmund or Etymander of the +ancients. Even here, where the stream was in its infancy, the current +was so strong, that while we were fording it, one of our baggage +ponies laden with a tent was carried away by its violence, and, but +for the gallant exertions of our tent-pitcher, we should have had to +sleep in the open air for the rest of our journey; as it fortunately +happened, both animal and load were recovered; and when properly +dried, neither one nor the other were a bit the worse for their +washing. On the 21st we encamped near the village of Kazee, after a +march of nine miles along the right bank of the Helmund, which here +flows in a south-westerly direction; we could procure no supplies +whatever, either for man or beast, which was the more vexatious as +we had a very hard day's work in prospect for the morrow, and were +anxious to recruit ourselves and cattle before attempting it. We +managed well enough in spite of our compulsory fast, and on the 22d we +reached Kalloo, a distance of twelve miles, after crossing the steep +and difficult pass of Hadjekuk, 12,400 feet high; as we approached +the summit we found ourselves amongst the snow, and experienced some +little inconvenience from a difficulty of respiration; though this +pass was even higher than that of Oonnye, it does not possess the +same abruptness and boldness of feature which render the latter so +interesting and dangerous. The hills near the gorge were so strongly +impregnated with iron as sensibly to affect the needle of the +theodolite. + +Throughout this country, and especially amongst the Uzbegs, there is a +fortified wall in the form of a square surrounding each village, with +small bastions or towers at the angles. Plunder is so much the order +of the day, or rather of the night, that, as a protection, the cattle +and every living animal are shut up in these places at sunset; the +wicket is locked and barred, and if the villagers happen to have a +feud with any of their neighbours, which generally is the case, a +watchman is stationed on each bastion. Truly of this land it may be +said, that "what one sows another reaps," for frequently a chief +forming a "chuppäo" or plundering party against his neighbour, if +unsuccessful in seizing men to sell for slaves or cattle for use, +reaps and carries off the corn. These chuppäos are considered among +the predatory tribes very exciting affairs, as affording opportunities +for the young warriors to flesh their maiden swords; but it seldom +happens that these encounters are very bloody, as, in the event of one +party shewing a determined front, the other generally retreats. The +unfortunate Huzareh tribe are constantly the sufferers, and the +traveller will recognize more slaves of that than of any other "clan." + +We were now in the vicinity of the Koh-i-baba, a mountain whose +granite peaks still towered six thousand feet above us, though our +own camp was at least nine thousand above the level of the sea. We +determined upon ascending it the following morning, but at first +experienced considerable difficulty in procuring guides, not from the +natives being either unqualified or unwilling to undertake the task, +for they were chiefly hunters, and familiar with the paths they had +themselves formed in pursuit of game, but they could not conceive why +_we_ should be anxious to climb the difficult height, and therefore +were obstinately stupid in refusing to understand the purpose for +which we required their services. At length we obtained a guide, and +started next morning at half-past five: with considerable fatigue and +some little risk we reached the summit after three hours walking, but +the magnificent view amply rewarded us for our trouble. The peaks +about us were capped with eternal snow; those below were rugged and +black. The comparison of the view from the top of a lofty mountain in +a hilly country with that of the sea in a storm is old perhaps, but +only the truer for that very reason. It was, indeed, as if the hand +of God had suddenly arrested and turned to stone varied and fantastic +forms of the dark tumultuous waves. + +The solemn stillness of these lofty regions was a striking contrast +with the busy plains below. The mountains abound in wild sheep, which +the hardy hunter pursues for days together, taking with him a slender +stock of food, and wrapping his blanket about him at night, when he +seeks his resting-place amongst the crevices of these barren rocks. It +is seldom that he returns empty-handed if he takes up a good position +over-night, for the flocks of wild sheep descend from the least +accessible parts at the earliest dawn in search of pasture, and one +generally falls a victim to the unerring bullet of the rested +Juzzyl. The distant view of the barrier range was beautiful beyond +description, for, though the peak on which we stood was the highest +for many miles around us, the lofty peaks of the Indian Caucasus were +many thousand feet above us. We were now beyond the range of the wild +sheep, and not a living creature was to be seen save a majestic eagle, +who, deeming _us_ intruders where he was lord of all, sailed up along +the sides of the precipitous ravines, sweeping about our heads as he +soared upwards, then again wheeling downwards near and nearer, till at +length I fancied him within range; but so deceptive was the distance +or so defective my aim that he continued unruffled in his course, +whilst the sharp crack of the rifle echoed and re-echoed from crag to +crag. After satiating our gaze with these wild splendours of creation, +a most unsentimental craving of the inward man warned us to descend, +and we returned to Kalloo by eleven o'clock to do ample justice to our +breakfasts. + +We left Kalloo on the 24th, ascending by a rugged broken track to the +highest point of the pass, where we came upon a fort surrounded by a +small belt of cultivation divided into fields by hedgerows abounding +with wild roses. I could hardly have imagined the road practicable for +camels, but the cautious though unwieldy animals eventually succeeded +in surmounting all difficulties, and arrived late at our encampment +near a village called Topechee, the whole distance being ten miles and +a half. From the crest of the pass to Topechee was a gradual descent, +the road bordering a tremendous fissure, deep and gloomy, along the +bottom of which a pelting torrent forced its way. The variegated +strata on the mountain side, forming distinct lines of red, yellow, +blue, and brown, were very remarkable, and I much regret that I had +not time to devote to them most strict examination in a geological +point of view. + +On the 25th we started for Bamee[=a]n, passing by another Topechee a +few miles further on, which is famous for its trout stream. Very few +of these fish are found in the country, and only in the streams within +a few miles of this spot. They are red-spotted and well-flavoured, +and, as the natives do not indulge in the angler's art, they will rise +at any kind of fly and gorge any bait offered. While halting a few +minutes at lower Topechee we fell in with an Uzbeg warrior, a most +formidable looking personage, armed, in addition to the usual weapons +of his country, with a huge bell-mouthed blunderbuss at least three +inches in diameter; the individual himself was peaceably enough +disposed, and, contrary to the usual habit of Asiatics, made no +objections to our examining the small cannon he carried. On inspecting +the deadly instrument we discovered it to be loaded to the very +muzzle, a mixture of pebbles, slugs, and bits of iron being crammed +into the barrel over a charge of a couple of ounces of powder. On our +inquiring why it was so heavily charged, the man told us with much +naiveté, that it was to kill _nine_ men, illustrating the method by +which this wholesale destruction was to be accomplished, by planting +the butt on his hip and whirling the muzzle from right to left in a +horizontal direction across us all, and telling us very pleasantly +that if he were to fire we should all fall from the scattering of the +different ingredients contained in the blunderbuss; had we not an +instant before drawn the charge from which the fellow anticipated such +dire effects, we might have felt rather uncomfortable at our relative +positions; but I doubt whether the owner had ever had occasion to try +the efficacy of his boasted manoeuvre, as he would probably at the +first discharge have been killed himself either by the recoil or the +bursting of the defective and honey-combed barrel. + +The approach to Bamee[=a]n was very singular; the whole face of the +hills on either hand was burrowed all over with caves like a huge +rabbit-warren. I am informed that these caves are the work of nature, +"yet worked, as it were planned," and are occupied occasionally by +travellers both in summer and winter; they are observable in many +places in Toorkisth[=a]n, and, when situated high up on the face of +the hill, afford a safe retreat for the hunter. The road was tolerably +good for the last three miles, running along a narrow valley sprinkled +with numerous forts, which are generally occupied by the Huzareh +tribes, an ill-featured but athletic race. + +I shall not detain the reader by any description either of the +wonderful ruins of the ancient city of Goolgoolla or of the gigantic +images of Bamee[=a]n, these curiosities having been ably described in +Masson's very interesting work; but I was a good deal amused by the +various legends with which the natives are familiar, of one of which, +relating to a chalybeate spring in the neighbourhood called the +"Dragon's Mouth," I shall take the liberty to offer a free version. It +was related to me by an old gentleman who brought a few coins to sell, +and I listened to him with some patience; but in proportion as the old +fellow observed my passive attention did he increase in verbosity and +pompous description. I still waited for the _point_ of the story, but +my friend, after exhausting his powers of speech and metaphor, was +fain to wind up his tale with a most lame and impotent conclusion. +I now give it to the reader, not from a wish to punish him as I +was punished, but because from the prolixity of the narrator he +necessarily most minutely described scenes and customs, which, though +they had nothing on earth to do with the "Dragon's Mouth," may prove +interesting to the reader, as illustrating the peculiarities of the +people amongst whom we were now sojourning. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +"A TALE OF THE DRAGON'S MOUTH." + + +In the reign of Ameer Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n, when all the pomp and +pride of glorious war was in its zenith at C[=a]bul, there lived on +the borders of Kulloom and Kundooz, a chieftain named Khan Shereef, +whose grandfather had accompanied the illustrious Nadir Shah from +Persia in his expedition through Affghanist[=a]n, and followed the +fortunes of his royal master, even to the very gates of the imperial +Delhi. On his return towards Persia, he had for a time intended to +settle in C[=a]bul, but "death, who assaults the walled fort of the +chieftain as well as the defenceless hovel of the peasant," seized him +for his own; the father also paid the debt of nature in the capital of +Affghanist[=a]n, but not before the young Khan Shereef had seen the +light. Growing up to manhood and wearying of the monotonous life a +residence in C[=a]bul entailed, he pursued his way across the frontier +mountains of Toorkisth[=a]n, and arrived at the court of Meer Moorad +Beg. Here he performed good service in the field, and becoming his +master's personal friend and favourite, had a fort and a small portion +of territory assigned to him. It was at the court of the Kundooz +ruler that he first became acquainted with Zebah, the lovely rose +of Cashmere, whom he eventually purchased from her father for +his wife.[*] He started with his bride to take possession of his +newly-acquired gift, an insulated fortress in the heart of a country +abounding in those extensive prairies for which Toorkisth[=a]n is +so justly celebrated. On these magnificent savannahs he reared the +Toorkman steed, and soon boasted an unrivalled stud. + +[* Note: It is customary in this country as well as in other parts +of Asia to purchase the young women who may be selected for wives of +their relations, the purchase money varying according to the degrees +of beauty.] Towards the close of the first year he became a father, an +event which was hailed with extravagant joy by all his vassals, the +old retainers of his father foretelling the future achievements in the +foray of the young Abdoollah Reheem. + +A few months had scarcely elapsed, when the anxious mother spied an +old crone moving about in the court-yard; their eyes happening to +meet, Zebah screamed and fell into a swoon. The young heir was +instantly hurried away, but not before the old hag had cast a +withering glance on the boy's beautiful face; every one was now fully +convinced that he had been struck by the "evil eye," which was but too +clearly proved by the event, for from that day he sickened and pined +away till reduced to a mere skeleton. + +Large sums of money were expended by the fond parents in the endeavour +to discover a charm to counteract the effects of the "evil eye," till +at length in an auspicious moment it was proposed the boy should try +the efficacy of the celebrated water of the "Dragon's Mouth," which is +situated at the head of the enchanting vale of Bamee[=a]n, just beyond +the western limits of Toorkisth[=a]n. The slave girl who proposed this +scheme related numerous and wonderful cures effected by the magic +waters, and enumerated many hundred individuals, the lame, the blind, +the infirm, the rheumatic, and those afflicted with _bad temper_, who +had been perfectly cured by either drinking of the water or being +immersed in the fountain itself. She would not be positive which +mode was the best, but certain she was that the cure was perfect and +permanent; she herself had been ugly and cross-tempered, and now she +left her audience to judge of her character and appearance. This last +proof at once determined the mother to adopt a plan, which after so +many unsuccessful attempts she could not but consider as her last +resource. + +Khan Shereef was not quite so credulous, but what chance has a man +alone against his united harem! He was so far influenced by the +earnest entreaties of his disconsolate wife, that it was determined +in three days he should with a strong cavalcade accompany his darling +invalid to the charmed waters of Bamee[=a]n. The Toorkm[=a]n warriors +were too religious to doubt the fortunate results of the experiment, +and accordingly for the few days which elapsed previous to the setting +forth of the expedition the fort was a scene of active preparation. +Armour was burnished, swords brightened and fresh ground, juzzyls +cleaned and matches got ready, so that they might produce as imposing +an effect as possible, not only on the presiding spirit of the +fountain, and the very questionable friends through whose territories +they were about to pass, but also that they might do due honour to +their lord and master. + +But before proceeding with my history, I must not omit a more minute +description of Khan Shereefs fort. I have already described its +locality on the borders of Toorkisth[=a]n. It was situated at the base +of a low conical hill, on the summit of which a look-out tower had +been erected; this building was in troublesome times occupied by a +party of Juzzylchees, who took their station in it, and, fixing their +cumbrous pieces on the parapet, watched the approach of any hostile +party, and from their commanding and protected position would be +enabled to keep in check an enemy attempting to ascend the opposite +side of the hill. As the nearest stream of water was full two miles +from the fort, the present owner, being a man full of science and +mathematical knowledge, had with unparalleled ingenuity sunk a deep +and substantial well inside his walls, thus rendering his position +infinitely more tenable than if his water-carriers had been daily +obliged, as is the case in most places, to run the gauntlet of +the enemy's fire whilst procuring the requisite supply of that +indispensable article. + +The fort itself was an oblong square, and required three hundred men +to man its walls; it was built of mud, with a large bastion at each +angle three and four stories high, and loopholed. It had but one gate, +on which the nature of the defences afforded means for concentrating a +heavy fire. Immediately facing the gate, and detached from buildings +of inferior importance, was the Khan's own residence, and some low +flat-roofed houses lining the inside of the whole extent of walls, +which afforded a secure shelter to the vassals. The audience-chamber +or public sitting-room was so situated that the Kh[=a]n could survey +the whole of the interior of his fort whilst squatting on his +Persian carpet or reclining on the large soft pillow, which is an +indispensable luxury for a grandee of the rank and importance of +Kh[=a]n Shereef. + +The sides of the apartment consisted of a lattice-work of wood +reaching nearly to the ceiling, and connecting the mud pillars which +supported the roof; the framework was richly carved, and on slides, so +as to enable the owner to increase or diminish the quantity of light +and air at his pleasure. + +Between the Kh[=a]n's dwelling and the gate was the mosque, whose +minarets towered above the walls and bastions of the fort,--its dome +was beautifully proportioned, and inlaid with agate, jasper, and +carnelian, besides being wonderfully painted with representations of +strange animals unknown to the common people, but which the Moollah +affirmed were all taken from the life. + +At this time the base of the mosque was occupied by a party of men +smoking and passing the Kalee[=a]n to each other; amongst them was +one, evidently superior to the rest in age and wisdom, for his opinion +was frequently appealed to by all and listened to with much deference. +When not called upon to interfere he sat quiet and reserved, and +to judge by his countenance was in a melancholy mood. His name was +Rhejjub;--he was the oldest retainer of the family, and to him in all +cases of emergency did the Kh[=a]n apply for advice, which had never +been given without due deliberation and almost prophetic foresight. He +had only that morning been deputed to remain and guard the fort during +the absence of his master, and although he knew it to be a post of +honor and trust, yet he could not but consider it an effeminate duty +to be left guardian of the Koch-khanah or _family_, and superintendent +of the _un_chosen of the band. With him, "to hear was to obey," still +he envied those who had been selected to accompany their lord. Old +Rhejjub had been a great traveller in his day; had wandered over many +portions of Arabia, and visited the holy city of Mecca; thus gaining +the valuable privileges of a Suyud or _holy man_, which title alone +was a passport and safeguard amongst even the lawless Ghilgyes and +Khyberr[=e]es of Affghanist[=a]n, it being a greater crime for a man +to kill a Suyud than even his own father. Thus, whenever a Chuppao or +other warlike expedition was in contemplation, Rhejjub was invariably +despatched to reconnoitre and obtain information, and being a man of a +shrewd turn of mind, and calculating all chances during his homeward +journey, was always prepared after detailing his news to give a sound +opinion as to the best plan to be pursued. + +At early dawn of the proposed day of departure the whole party were +summoned by the Muezzin's call to offer up prayers for their safe +arrival at the "Dragon's Mouth," for the effectual cure of the young +Abdoollah, and his happy return to his fond mother. Before mounting, +was performed the ceremony of taking from its resting place the famous +sword given to the Kh[=a]n's grandfather by Nadir Shah himself. +The blade was of Damascus steel, and valued alone at one hundred +tomauns;[*] the ivory handle was ornamented with precious stones, +and the pommel was one large emerald of great beauty and value. The +scabbard was of shagreen finely embroidered in gold. This precious +weapon the Suyud had the enviable office of presenting to his chief +unsheathed, whilst the aged Moollah who stood by read aloud the inlaid +Arabic inscription on the blade, "May this always prove as true a +friend to thee as it has been to the donor." The Kh[=a]n received the +valued heir-loom with all due respect, and kissing the weapon sheathed +and fixed it firmly to his belt. + +[* Note: Tomaun, twenty rupees or about £2.] + +All necessary preparations for the departure being now completed, the +camel destined for the accommodation of the invalid was brought to the +door of the palace, conducted by a favourite Arab who had for many +years filled the office of head Surwan or _camel-driver_. The colour +of the animal was almost white, and the large gold embroidered +housings swept the ground; on either side was fixed a wicker-basket +lined and covered with red cloth, and furnished with soft cushions; +one of these held the young Kh[=a]n, whilst the other was occupied by +the nurse who was the original promoter of the expedition. At length +the word to march was given, and the escort consisting of sixty +horsemen galloped forth. Khan Shereef himself was clad in a coat +of mail, and wore a circular steel head-piece, in which were three +receptacles for as many heron plumes; a light matchlock, the barrel of +which, inlaid with gold, was slung across his shoulder; attached to +his sword-belt were the usual priming and loading powder-flasks made +of buffalo's hide, with tobacco-pouch and bullet-holder of Russia +leather worked with gold thread; and the equipment was completed by +the Affgh[=a]n boots drawn up over the loose trousers reaching to the +knee, with sharp-pointed heels serving for spurs. + +The procession moved on, the escort forming an advance and rear-guard, +the chief galloping sometimes in front of the party, and now walking +his Toorkm[=a]n steed alongside the richly caparisoned camel with its +precious burthen. + +Occasionally a horseman would dash out from the ranks in chace of +a wild goat or sheep crossing the little frequented road, or, +dismounting and giving his horse in charge of a comrade, would make +a detour on foot in the hope of getting a shot at a chichore.[*] The +tedious hours of march were thus wiled away till they reached the +"Dundun Shikkun Kotul" or _tooth-breaking_ pass, when the horsemen +assumed a more steady demeanour. They were now within forty miles of +the celebrated spring, which they hoped to reach on the following day. + +[* Note: This is a species of partridge very abundant throughout +Toorkistan.] + +The Dragon's Mouth is situated four or five miles to the north-west +of Bamee[=a]n, high up in the mountains in the direction of the +Yookaoolung country. After a toilsome and somewhat perilous ascent +the traveller finds himself at the edge of a deep ravine--or rather +fissure in the rock, for the width at the top is seldom more than +twelve feet--the sides presenting a ferruginous appearance, with tints +varying from extremely dark to lighter shades, by reason of the soil +being so strongly impregnated with ore. The low gurgling of the +wonder-working stream might be heard issuing from the depths of the +dark abysm. + +Below, and at the only point of feasible approach for the +disease-stricken, is a large cave, where the water bubbles up warm, +and forming innumerable small whirlpools before it breaks again into a +stream, and mingles its waters with those of a torrent below. + +Here, at the base of a large fragment of rock, almost entirely covered +with Arabic inscriptions and quotations from the Kor[=a]n alluding to +the healing powers of the well and the mercy of God, Khan Shereef and +his now dismounted followers offered up prayers for success. Suddenly +a huge mass of rock detaching itself from the mountain side thundered +down the steep; it was hailed by all as a good omen, and the Moollah +declaring that "now or never" was the auspicious moment, the child was +taken from the arms of the now trembling nurse and immersed in the +turbid waters. Hope elevated the breasts of the father and of the +attendants, nor was that feeling fallacious, for on the following +morning the invalid was pronounced decidedly better, and was again +taken to the cavern, and again, with sanguine prayers and invocations, +dipped into the pool. + +Khan Shereef, feeling assured that he could now do no more, and +trusting to the goodness of Providence, ordered a retrograde movement, +and in a few days arrived at his castle with the infant nearly +restored to health. A few years after the young Abdoollah was a +healthy active boy, indulging in the sports of the field, and +anxiously awaiting the time when he should be of sufficient age to +join in the more exciting scenes of the chuppao. The old nurse, the +proposer of the successful scheme, was highly honoured, and became +chief attendant in the seraglio, which office she holds to this day. + +"And now," concluded the old gentleman, "if my lord will choose to +purchase these beautiful coins, he shall have them for whatever price +his generosity may think fit to put upon them." + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +The force stationed at Bamee[=a]n consisted, at the time we were +there, of a troop of native horse artillery and a regiment of Goorkahs +in the service of Shah Seujah. + +On our arrival, Dr. Lord, the political agent, sent us a polite note +of invitation to pitch our tents near his fort, and (we) become his +guests during our stay; we remained with him till the 29th, and were +much gratified by his kind attention. + +The quiet demeanour of the natives here was very remarkable, and as +we can hardly attribute the circumstance to an inherent pacific +disposition, we must the more appreciate the wonderful address +displayed by the political agent in his dealings with the various +parties, who in these remote mountains, as well as in more civilised +countries, are ever ready to quarrel with each other, and only suspend +their animosity when a common powerful enemy is to be resisted or a +helpless stranger to be plundered. As it was, we reaped considerable +benefit from the favourable impression made on the peasants by the +authorities, for we were enabled to go out shooting, alone, and even +wander unarmed amongst the hills without experiencing the slightest +insult or incivility. + +Indeed, at the period of which I am writing, there seemed to have +been a pause in the wild passions of the Affgh[=a]ns throughout the +country, which was perhaps one of the fatal causes which lulled us +into that dangerous feeling of security, from whence we were awoke by +the most dreadful disaster that has ever befallen the British arms. +Poor Dr. Lord was killed at Purwan Durrah during the short campaign in +the Kohistan under Sir Robert Sale; and the other British officer, Dr. +Grant, who was the medical attaché to the mission, disappeared during +the retreat from Charrik[=a]r in 1841, and has never been heard of +since. + +On the 29th June we left Bamee[=a]n for Surruk Durrah (red valley), +which is situated at the mouth of the gorge; it is a place of +no importance, but the face of the impending hills has a most +extraordinary appearance from the fanciful shapes of the harder rocks +which jut out from the clayey sides of the mountains. + +Here it was that Colonel Dennie, of the 13th, who afterwards fell at +Jell[=a]labad, with a small force of a few hundred men, completely +routed the Ex-Ameer Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n, who was accompanied by all +the principal Uzbeg chiefs and the famous Meer Walli of Kulloom. + +A report reached the gallant Colonel in the morning, that the enemy +had taken up a position at the head of the Bamee[=a]n valley; +he immediately ordered a reconnoitring party to proceed in that +direction, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there was any +foundation for the alarm, and accompanied them himself; he was rather +astonished on perceiving the enemy debouching from the hills in great +force; the odds were fearfully against him in numbers, but, like a +good soldier, he at once decided upon attacking without delay. He +immediately opened a fire on them from his two guns, under the able +superintendence of Lieut. McKenzie, and then dashing forward, drove +them back with great slaughter into the narrow gorge, from whence they +again attempted to advance, but were again beaten back, till at length +they lost courage and broke away in every direction. + +On the 30th we marched to Akrob[=a]d, a distance of ten miles. On +leaving Surruk Durrah we entered the narrow gorge before alluded to; +it is five miles long, and has precipitous sides, at the bottom of +which rushed a foaming torrent: the formation of the hills was slate +with a superstratum of limestone. On emerging from the Akrob[=a]d +Pass, where there was not a breath to disturb the meagre foliage, we +were suddenly surprized by a bleak piercing wind, which we were told +invariably blew across the table land on which the fort is built. +Although in the height of summer, the wind was intensely cold, and we +were glad to take into wear the scanty supply of winter clothing which +we had brought with us in case of emergency. Out of the stream running +in front of the fort in less than an hour I managed to take a few +well-flavoured trout, which swallowed my bait most greedily. From +Surruk Durrah to Akrob[=a]d the road was, comparatively speaking, +good, it being under the superintendence of Lieut. Broadfoot, who +had been directed to make it practicable for artillery as far as +Sygh[=a]n; he had made good progress in his work, and at the period I +write of, it was a very fair military road as far as Akrob[=a]d. Poor +Broadfoot was slain in the gallant and desperate charge made by the +officers of the 2d Bengal Cavalry at Purw[=a]n Durrah, of which I +hope in the proper place to be able to give the reader a slight +description. + +The hills about Akrob[=a]d are so situated as to form a funnel for all +the winds of the snowy range, rendering the temperature of the little +table-land bitterly cold both in summer and winter--so much so in +winter, that the Huz[=a]reh inhabitants desert the fort in autumn for +some more sheltered locality, and return again with the spring. + +We now entered Toorkisth[=a]n, the pass of Akrob[=a]d dividing it from +Affghanist[=a]n. Should the traveller form his opinion of the country +beyond by the specimen now before us, he would be loth indeed to +proceed, for a more dismal corner can hardly be conceived. The outline +of the adjacent mountains was dreary and uninviting, with very little +cultivation in the valley, which also bore a most desolate aspect--it +was barren and unpromising, without participating in the wild and +grand features which generally characterize these regions. Fuel was +with difficulty procured, and our camp was but scantily furnished with +even the most necessary supplies. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +On the 1st of July we left this sad region, and pitched our tents +some five miles further onwards, in a pleasant meadow, where we met a +brother of Dost Mahommed, the well-known Sird[=a]r Jubber Kh[=a]n, who +arrived in the course of the day from the interior of Toorkist[=a]n, +and encamped close to us. He was then on his way to Cabul, having +in charge the women and children belonging to the seraglio of the +ex-king. He invited us to pay him a visit, which we did in uniform, +and found him an agreeable old gentleman, with manners far more +polished than the generality of his countrymen, who, though not +deficient in a certain national savage grace, frequently shock our +European notions of propriety by their open disregard of what we are +accustomed to consider the decencies of society; but Jubber Kh[=a]n +seemed to have all the good qualities and few of the vices so +prevalent in the Affgh[=a]n character. No doubt that superior polish +of manner was derived from his more extensive intercourse with +Europeans. During our visit he presented us each with a small silver +Mahommedan coin, saying at the same time with peculiar grace and +dignity that he was now a poor man, and entirely dependent on the +generosity of the British; that the coin was of no intrinsic value, +but still he hoped we would remember the donor. Much as we respected +the character of our host, I could not but regret that he had not yet +picked up the English habit of sitting on a chair; for what with +tight pantaloons and a stiff uniform, I got so numbed by sitting +cross-legged like a tailor, that when the interview was over I could +not rise from my cramped position without assistance, much to the +amusement of Jubber Kh[=a]n, whose oriental gravity was entirely +upset. + +I was informed that on being requested by the British authorities to +deliver up the family of his brother, he boldly refused, stating that +they were given into his charge, and that he deemed it a sacred trust +not to be betrayed by any consideration of personal advantage. It will +be gratifying to the reader to know that this manly refusal did not +operate to his prejudice in the opinions of those to whom it was made. +He subsequently obtained from the Dost permission to comply with the +demand, and was now on his journey for that purpose; but though he +professed to have every confidence in our honour and generous kindness +with regard to the females, he appeared somewhat anxious as to the +influence which his previous refusal might have with reference to his +own treatment. Jubber Kh[=a]n's name was in great repute amongst +the Affgh[=a]ns, who, all wild and savage as they are, still have +sufficient feeling to admire in others those virtues which are +so rarely met with amongst themselves: he is considered an able +politician also, as well as the poor man's friend--high and low find +him equally easy of access, and he is the general mediator in quarrels +between the different chiefs, and the principal counsellor in the +national debates. + +Whilst encamped here the united seraglios of Dost Mahommed and Jubber +Kh[=a]n passed in front of our tents, on their way to K[=a]bul. It was +a very large procession, consisting of nearly eighty camel loads of +fair ones of every age and quality. Each camel was furnished on either +side with a large pannier, and in each pannier was a lady--weight +against weight. The presence of Englishmen so much excited their +curiosity that we were enabled to enjoy a nearer and better view of +the beauties than strict decorum would have justified, and it may not +perhaps be uninteresting to my fair readers, if, turning to advantage +this slight impropriety, I here take the liberty of describing as much +as I could observe of the very remarkable travelling costume of the +female Affgh[=a]n aristocracy. When in public the highborn Affgh[=a]n +lady is so completely enveloped by her large veil (literally sheet), +that the person is entirely concealed from head to foot; there are +two eyelet holes in that part of the sheet which covers the face, +admitting air and light, and affording to the fair one, herself +unseen, a tolerable view of external objects. I trust I may be +permitted without indiscretion to remove this shroud and give some +slight description of the costume. + +Over a short white under-garment, whose name of Kammese[*] +sufficiently denotes its use, is a Peir[=a]n or jacket, which amongst +the higher classes is made of Bokh[=a]ra cloth, or not unfrequently of +Russian broad cloth, brought overland through Bokh[=a]ra. This garment +is generally of some glaring gaudy colour, red or bright yellow, +richly embroidered either in silk or gold; it is very like the Turkish +jacket, but the inner side of the sleeve is open, and merely confined +at the wrist with hooks and eyes. A pair of loose trousers, gathered +at the waist with a running silken cord, and large at the ankle, forms +a prominent feature in the costume, and is made either of calico, +shawl-cloth, or Cachmere brocade, according to the finances of the +wearer. Instead of stockings they wear a kind of awkward-looking linen +bag, yellow or red, soled with thick cloth or felt, the top being +edged with shawl-cloth. The shoes are similar to the Turkish slipper, +with the usual Affgh[=a]n high-pointed heels tipped with iron; and as +these articles must from their shape be an impediment to walking, I +presume that the real use to which they are generally put must +have given rise to the common expression in Hindoost[=a]n for any +punishment inflicted, the term being "jutte mar," literally, +beating with the shoe. The weapon put to this purpose would be very +formidable, and I have little doubt that the beauties of the harem +keep their lords in high discipline by merely threatening with such an +instrument. + +[* Note: Anglice, Chemise. It may fairly be inferred that the name of +this under-garment is derived from the word mentioned in the text; and +doubtless there are many words in our own as well as in other modern +languages that may equally be traced to Asia; for instance, Sheittan, +Satan.] + +On the head of the Affgh[=a]n female is worn a small skull cap, +keeping in place the hair in front, which is parted, laid flat, and +stiffened with gum, while the rest hangs in long plaits down the back. + +Next day we left for Sygh[=a]n, and after a march of about fifteen +miles pitched our tents in the vicinity of the principal fort. The +whole journey was through a deep defile, except about half-way, when +we came upon a small but well cultivated plain, with a fort in the +centre. The contrast was pleasing after travelling so many miles +amidst the dark overhanging crags, threatening destruction on the +passer-by; but this relief was of short duration, for after two miles +it gradually contracted, and formed a continuation of the defile down +to the valley of Sygh[=a]n. + +The fort is on a small hill detached from the main range, but easily +commanded, though it is said for ages to have been deemed impregnable, +till some chief more knowing than his neighbours hit upon the very +obvious expedient of lining the overhanging range with Juzzylchees, +and picking off every individual who ventured to appear on the +battlements. It is now in our possession, and occupied by two +companies of Sepoys; and though the place might be seriously annoyed +by musketry from the adjacent hills, still the sides of those hills +are so rocky and precipitous that cannon could not be brought to bear +from the summit without immense labour. + +These hills are composed of sandstone and indurated clay, in which +numerous fossils abound. + +The valley along which we proceeded produces many varieties of fruit, +and is rich in the cultivation of artificial grasses, lucerne being +the most abundant. + +On arriving at our encamping ground on the 3rd of July, about four +miles and a half beyond Sygh[=a]n, a poor villager, a vassal of +Mahommed Ali Beg's, to whom the fort of Sygh[=a]n belonged previous to +its cession to the British, came to complain that some of our baggage +animals had injured one of his fields by trampling down his grain. +Upon enquiry his story was found to be correct. Mahommed Ali Beg +happened to be paying us a visit when the man presented himself, and +wished to drive the poor fellow away to prevent his troubling us; and +great indeed was the wonder and astonishment shewn by all the natives +about us when Sturt desired that the peasant should receive ten rupees +as compensation for the damage done to his crops. + +Loud were the praises bestowed upon our _extraordinary_ justice; and +Mahommed Ali Beg, forgetting the line of conduct he had but a moment +before advocated, delivered the following expression of his reformed +opinion in a loud pompous tone, whilst his followers listened, +open-mouthed, to the eloquence of their now scrupulous chief: +"Although the Feringhis have invaded our country they never commit any +act of injustice;" then, having delivered himself of this inconsistent +speech, he lifted a straw from the ground, and turning round to his +audience, continued: "they don't rob us even of the value of +_that_; they pay for every thing, even for the damage done by their +followers." Corporal Trim's hat falling to the ground was nothing to +the effect produced by the comparison of the straw; but, alas for +human nature! I had but too strong grounds for suspecting that, of +the ten rupees awarded to the peasant, seven were claimed by Ali for +having induced the Feringhis to listen to the claim!! + +The surrounding hills have here as at Surruk Durrah the appearance of +ruined castles, with donjon or keep and tower; they forcibly reminded +me of the "Castle of St. John," in Scott's Bridal of Triermain, but my +visions of Merlin and fair maidens awoken from their charmed slumbers +were destroyed by the sight of a little purling brook which promised +me a few hours angling. Nor was I disappointed; for in a short time I +(being unprovided with my fishing basket) filled two towels full of +fish, and congratulated myself on my sport; however, to use an old +phrase, "the proof of the pudding is in the eating," and so we found +it, for when brought to table "my catch" fell far short of our +epicurean anticipations, and I almost regretted that I had not +continued my dreams instead of disturbing the finny tribe. + +A complaint was made to us in the course of the day, that an Huzareh +female, returning to her own country with one attendant, had been +seized and carried away to one of the adjacent forts, where she was +detained; and our interference was requested with a view to obtaining +her release. We were of course most anxious to help the poor woman, +especially as it appeared from what was reported to us that there were +not the slightest grounds for the outrage, beyond the helplessness +of her situation and the natural cupidity of the robber chief of the +fort; but, unfortunately, we were travelling without credentials, the +Envoy having declined to furnish us, lest the inhabitants should fancy +that we were vested with any political power; and therefore we could +not interfere, and what became of her I know not, though we were +afterwards told that on her resigning her trinkets as her ransom she +would be released. Indeed the personal ornaments of the petty chiefs +are generally the point of some lawless proceeding like the one +alluded to, as they are seldom possessed of sufficient capital in +specie to purchase jewels, but exchange their grain and fruits for +clothes and precious stones. I have mentioned the above circumstance +to give the reader some notion of the lawless state of society, +deeming it out of keeping with the humble character of this simple +narrative, and perhaps beyond the ability of the writer, to enter more +minutely into the various causes which have contributed to bring the +country into so unhappy a state. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +On the 4th July our route lay across the Dundun Shikkun. Kotul, or +"tooth-breaking pass," and a truly formidable one it is for beasts +of burden, especially the declivity on the northern side. Very few +venture upon the descent without dismounting, for the surface of the +rock is so smooth and slippery, that the animals can with difficulty +keep their legs even when led, and many teeth, both of man and horse, +have been broken before reaching the bottom. + +The valley of K[=a]mmurd lying at the foot of the northern side of +the pass has a very fertile appearance, and orchards of different +descriptions of fruit-trees are interspersed throughout the +cultivation. The fort of the principal chief, named Uzzuttoollah Beg, +from whom we received a visit, is high up the valley, and there are +two others of minor importance on either bank of the river, lower down +and together. + +Uzzuttoollah Beg was in appearance a very fine old man with an +imposing white beard; he was six feet high, large boned and muscular, +and by far the most powerful and stately looking personage we had +hitherto met; but he was a shrewd wicked old fellow, and when the star +of British prosperity began to wane, proved himself a dangerous enemy. +His own vassals, from whom he exacted the strictest obedience, stood +in great awe of him. He came merely, he said, to pay his respects, +to chat over political affairs, and to inquire from us whether the +English intended giving up his valley to the Meer Walli of Koollum. +We could give him no information as to the intentions of Government. +"Khoob (well,)" answered he, "if such really be the case, the Meer +Walli may seize me if he is able, provided _you_ keep aloof; the Meer +has tried that game before now, but did not succeed; on two separate +occasions he has visited my fort in an unceremonious manner, and with +hostile intent; but, gentlemen, there are two sides to a fort, the +inside and the out. I was in--the Meer was out, and I kept him there; +till, (suffering no other inconvenience myself than the deprivation +from riding for a few days,) by keeping up a constant fire on his +ragamuffins, I one fine day compelled him to beat his retreat:" and +so saying, he stroked his beard with much complacency, evidently +considering it and its owner the two greatest wonders of the +Toorkisth[=a]n world. + +It may be as well to remark here, that in these valleys as throughout +Affghanist[=a]n in general, the forts are made of mud, the walls being +of great strength and thickness; they are built gradually, and it +takes many months to erect a wall twenty feet high, as each layer +of mud is allowed to bake and harden in the sun before the next is +superimposed. Now, as none of the chiefs possess cannon, except the +Meer Walli and Moorad Beg of Koondooz, it is almost impossible to gain +an entry into a well-constructed fort, except by treachery; and even +the few honey-combed pieces of small calibre possessed by the above +chieftains would not have much effect against the massive ramparts. + +But the Uzbegs have a method of undermining the bastion, by turning +the course of some convenient stream right under the very base; this +gradually softens the lower stratum of mud, and diminishing its +tenacity, the whole fabric comes tumbling down from its own weight. +They also have frequently recourse to mining, but for either method to +succeed the defenders cannot be on the alert. + +A man who had been engaged in an operation of the latter kind, by +which the fort of Badjgh[=a]r was once taken, explained to me the plan +adopted, which bears a rude analogy to the modern plan of mining under +the glacis to the foot of the counterscarp. + +To-day a horseman came into our camp at about 3 P.M. with letters from +Bamee[=a]n; he had left early in the morning, and thus accomplished a +journey of fifty miles with the same horse, over two severe passes, +and through a succession of difficult defiles. On alighting, he tied +his horse to the branch of a tree, merely loosening the girths, but +not intending to give him food till the evening. The horses are +habituated to the want of any midday feeding, and at night and morning +seldom get grain. But the dried lucerne and other artificial grasses +with which they are supplied must afford them sufficient nourishment, +as they are generally in very good working condition; they are +undersized, but very sure-footed; it is indeed astonishing over what +fearful ground they will carry their riders. The yabboo is a different +style of animal, heavier built and slower; its pace is an amble, by +means of which it will get over an immense distance, but it is not so +sure-footed. + +I remarked that aged horses were very rarely met with, and on +inquiring the reason, was informed that the horses were all so +violently worked when young as soon to break down, after which they +are slaughtered and made into _kabobs_. I was assured that the +eating-shops of Cabul and Kandah[=a]r always require a great supply of +horseflesh, which is much liked by the natives, and when well seasoned +with spices is not to be distinguished from other animal food. + +At this station fruit was in great profusion; I observed that the +sides of a barren hill near our camp were of a bright yellow tint +for upwards of a mile and a half, and on approaching to discover the +cause, I found the whole space covered with apricots placed side by +side to dry in the sun. I tasted some of them, which had apparently +only just been gathered, and found them very well flavoured, though +generally speaking I must allow that the fruits of these valleys are +inferior to those of Europe, with the exception of the grape, which is +unequalled. But the grape and apricot are not the only fruits which +flourish in this green spot surrounded by barren rocks,--the walnut, +the peach, mulberry, apple, and cherry, also come to perfection in +their respective seasons. + +At sunset Uzzuttoollah Beg sent us a plentiful supply of fruit, grain +for our cattle, and flour for the servants, regretting at the same +time that he was not able to send us sheep enough for the whole party. +When he came to take leave, we told him we had received more than +we expected or required, and begged his acceptance of a loonghee or +_headdress_ in remembrance of us. He was much gratified with the +trifle, it being of Peshawurree muslin, a kind much sought after and +prized by the Uzbegs. He immediately took off his own turban, which +was indeed rather the worse for wear, and binding the new one round +his head, declared with a self-satisfied look, that "it would be +exceedingly becoming." He then arose, and probably to shew his +knowledge of European breeding, gave me such a manly shake of the hand +as made me expect to see the blood start from the tips of my fingers. +I am not sure, with all due respect for the good old custom of shaking +hands, that I should not have preferred submitting to the Uzbeg mode +of salutation. On approaching an equal, the arms of both are thrown +transversely across the shoulders and body, like the preparatory +attitude of wrestlers in some parts of England, then, placing breast +to breast, the usual form of "salaam aleikoom" is given in a slow +measured tone. But on horseback the inferior dismounts, and, according +to the degree of rank, touches or embraces the stirrup. + +The valley of Kammurd is of an oblong form flanked by stupendous +mountains; the enormous barrier of the Dundun Shikkun almost precludes +the possibility of bringing cannon from the south, although one gun is +known to have been dragged over by sheer manual labour; it was brought +by Dost Mahommed from Cabul to quell some refractory chiefs, the +carriage being taken to pieces, and the gun fastened by ropes in the +hollowed trunk of a tree. + +On the 5th of July we reached Piedb[=a]gh, five miles further down the +valley, which gradually decreased in breadth, seldom exceeding two +hundred yards, and sometimes contracting to fifty. Along the banks +of a muddy river flowing through the centre of the narrow vale, the +sycamore tree was very luxuriant, and two or three forts formed a +chain of communication from one end of the cultivated land to the +other. Piedb[=a]gh, as its name implies, is a complete orchard, +_piedan_ meaning perpetual, and b[=a]gh, garden; from a distance it +looks like a thick wood with the turrets of the forts overtopping the +dark foliage. We took advantage of the quiet beauty of this spot +to give our horses a day's rest, and lucky it was for us we had at +Bamee[=a]n exchanged for stout yaboos the unwieldy camels which we had +brought from Cabul; the yaboos get over the ground twice as fast as +the camel, and for mountainous districts are infinitely preferable to +the "ship of the desert." + +It was lucky also that we had not burdened ourselves with bedsteads or +charpoys, as they are called in the East (literally "_four feet_"); +they would have inconvenienced us much; and we should, probably, have +been forced to abandon them on the road, the pathways along the glens +being often so narrow, and so encumbered with the detritus from the +overhanging mountains, as to make it necessary to pack our baggage +very compactly; inattention to this important point in mountain +travelling is sometimes followed by very serious consequences, for the +chair or bedstead, projecting far beyond the centre of gravity of the +unfortunate animal, catches against a corner of rock, and both load +and pony run imminent risk of being hurled into the abyss below. We +were now so inured to sleeping on the ground, that had it not been for +the multitudes of fleas we should never have felt the want of a +more elevated sleeping place. The animal and vegetable character of +Piedb[=a]gh may be stated in a few words--apricots and fleas are in +abundance, the former very large sized, and the latter healthy. + +In the course of my journal I hope to be able to relate the +circumstances of a very pretty little affair which occurred here, some +months after we passed through, between two companies of Shah Soojah's +Goorkah regiment and the inhabitants of the neighbouring forts. The +Goorkahs, upholding their well-known character, fought desperately +against an overwhelming force; they would have suffered severely +but for the able conduct of their leader, who was an European +non-commissioned officer and quarter-master sergeant of the corps; his +manoeuvring would have done credit to many an older soldier. + +On the 7th July we quitted Piedb[=a]gh for Badjgh[=a]r, the most +westerly of our advanced posts; it was occupied at the period of which +I write by Captain Hay, and was the head-quarters of the Goorkah +battalion. The hills from a little above Piedb[=a]gh encroach so much +upon the valley as to reduce it to little more than a ravine forming +two gigantic walls, that on the right being inaccessible save to the +wild goat, whilst the left-hand boundary, though still precipitous, +may be surmounted by active light-armed troops. On emerging from +the orchards we came upon a grass meadow extending to the fort of +Badjgh[=a]r, which is again situate at the mouth of a defile leading +to M[=a]ther, the route we eventually pursued. The fort is capable of +containing about two hundred men; when first taken possession of it +was literally choked with filth and abominations of all kinds, but the +industry of the little garrison had succeeded in giving it an air of +cleanliness and comfort. As a military position it is most faulty, and +it is really astonishing to conceive how heedless those who fixed +upon it as a post of such importance must have been of the manifold +weakness of the place; from the surrounding heights it has the +appearance of being situated in a deep dyke; it is completely hemmed +in, and juzzaelmen occupying the adjacent hills could easily find +cover from whence they might pour in so destructive a fire as to +render the place untenable. In addition to these defects, the fort of +Badjgh[=a]r is unprovided with a well within its defences; this, +as has before been remarked, is a common case, but still it would +materially affect the integrity of a force within, as they would be +reduced to the necessity of frequent sallies to the neighbouring +stream to obtain water. + +We found Capt. Hay in no enviable position; he had but one European to +assist him in his various important duties; the three or four officers +who were nominally attached to the corps being either on detachment or +other military employ, so that with such slender aid as one European +sergeant, it was very hard work for him to keep up discipline amongst +a brave but half savage band, to provide for their subsistence, keep a +sharp look-out on his front and flanks, and remain on good terms +with the neighbouring chiefs, whose conflicting interests, lawless +propensities, and savage nature were continually requiring his +mediation or interference. + +"_Quem deus vult perdere prius dementat_" is an old saw most +applicable to the conduct, or rather want of conduct of the "powers +that were" during the spring of 1841, and the state of the important +outpost of Badjgh[=a]r is a type of the condition of most of the +detached posts throughout the kingdom of Cabul; the dreadful +catastrophe which ushered in the year 1842 is but too unanswerable a +proof of the opinion I here express; and though innumerable instances +of individual gallantry as well amongst the unlettered privates as the +superior officers have thrown a halo round their bloody graves, the +stern truth still forces itself upon us, that the temporary eclipse of +British glory was not the consequences of events beyond the power of +human wisdom to foresee or ward off, but the natural results of an +overweening confidence in our power, and of an infatuated blindness to +the sure indications of the coming storm which for many months before +it burst darkened our political horizon. + +It will easily be believed that the various duties entailed upon Capt. +Hay left him but little time for scientific researches, yet this +indefatigable officer had already made a fine collection of geological +specimens from the adjacent hills. I regret that circumstances prevent +me from giving any of the useful information which his industry +supplied. I am only able to say, that the fossils were generally found +in tertiary deposits, and were plentiful in quantity, but the variety +was not great. He had at the time of our visit made, likewise, +considerable progress in putting his position into as good a state +of defence as circumstances allowed; of course he had not means to +defilade his fort, but he had erected a breastwork four feet and a +half high across the defile, which would certainly be of great use in +checking any body of horsemen who might advance from the north, at +least for a time sufficient to enable the garrison to prepare for an +attack. The fort seemed a focus for all the rays of the sun, and was +intensely hot, the thermometer ranging from 95 to 110 in the shade; +nor was the situation healthy, for a great many Goorkahs were in +hospital, and all were more or less debilitated from the effects of +the climate. + +Whilst at Badjgh[=a]r we made the acquaintance of one of the chiefs, +Suyed Mahommed of the Dushti Suffaëd or _white desert_, through whose +country we eventually travelled; we found him an easy good-tempered +man, well inclined towards the British, but grasping and avaricious. +Throughout our intercourse with him he behaved well, but he took +occasion frequently to remind us we were not to forget that he looked +for a reward; still, in summing his character, I must say he was +superior to his "order;" for, either from the wish to lead a quiet +life or from his limited means and unwarlike disposition, he was not +given to feuds or chuppaos like his neighbours. He sent rather a +characteristic letter to Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, a chief whose dominions +were also on our line of route, recommending us to his notice, but +concluding by telling him to judge of us and act according to our +merits. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +On the 9th July we bade our kind friend Capt. Hay farewell, and many +were the prayers offered up for our safe return; the Goorkah soldiers +even accompanied us for three or four miles. Sturt had not been +supplied with any introductory letters from Sir William M'Naghten, +although he was sent on duty, for it was uncertain what kind of a +reception we might meet with amongst the chiefs of Toorkisth[=a]n, +and it was therefore deemed unadvisable to give us the character of +accredited agents, which would necessarily tend to mix us up with +politics. Though this plan may have been very wise on the part of +Government, yet it by no means contributed to our comfort, as we found +ourselves frequently the objects of suspicion. Some of the chiefs +plainly said, "you are come to survey our country, and eventually to +take possession;" but most of them cared very little whether we came +as friends or foes: they had little to lose and everything to gain +by a _row_. With a few of the more influential chiefs the case was +different; if we had caused Dost Mahommed, the all powerful Ameer of +C[=a]bul, to become a fugitive, what chance had they if our views led +us across the Hindoo Khoosh? Such was their mode of reasoning; but it +must be confessed that they were ignorant of the immense advantage +the rugged nature of their barren land would give them over a regular +army, and thus they were unable to form an idea of the value of the +resistance which a few determined mountaineers might oppose. Amongst +other wild schemes, I fancy that the idea was once entertained, or +at all events the question was mooted, of sending a force to +Bokh[=a]r[=a] to procure the release of poor Stoddart. Without +dwelling upon the enormous sacrifice of life and treasure which such +an expedition of magnitude sufficient to ensure success would entail, +I may be permitted to point out what from personal observation I have +been led to consider as the "least impossible" route. The line I +should recommend would be the one we pursued as far as Koollum, when +the force should so shape its route as to avoid the great sandy +desert, which extends for three hundred and fifty miles from Koollum +to Bokh[=a]r[=a], by keeping to the north, and "striking" the Oxus, +which is navigable for boats of heavy burthen for many hundred miles +above the capital. But even on this plan we must suppose the force +to have already surmounted the thousand and one passes which occur +between Cabul and Koollum. Much has been printed and a great deal more +written and wisely left _un_printed concerning the practicability of +these routes for a modern army; it savours of a useless truism to +state, that if the government making the attempt has resources +sufficient in men, transport, and treasure, and dwells not upon the +sacrifice of these three necessaries for an army, the thing may be +done; but I can hardly conceive any crisis in political affairs which +could render such a measure advantageous to the party undertaking it. +The advancing force will always suffer, whether it be Russia advancing +upon India, or India advancing towards Europe. The hand of God has +fixed the tremendous barrier; woe to him who would despise the +warning. + +Our route lay along the usual green vale so often described, bounded +by barren hills, over which a few inhabitants might occasionally be +seen stalking along in their dark-coloured garments, which harmonized +with the sombre character of the country. We pitched our tents +near the little fort of M[=a]ther, about five miles from our last +encampment, and situate at the foot of the Kara Kotul, or _black +pass_. Our resting place afforded nothing remarkable; and indeed +I feel that some apology is due to my readers for the unavoidable +sameness of the details of this part of our journey; but I am in hopes +that this very defect, though it render the perusal of my journal +still heavier, will assist in conveying an accurate idea of the nature +of the country; it is not my fault if we met with no adventures, no +hairbreadth escapes, or perilous encounters. I must once more crave +indulgence. + +The Affgh[=a]n soldiers of our escort did not much relish the +discipline I enforced. A complaint was made to me in the course of the +day by a peasant, that these warriors had most unceremoniously +broken down hedges, and entering his apricot orchard, had commenced +appropriating the fruit, responding to his remonstrances with threats +and oaths. I thought this a fine opportunity to read my savages a +lecture on the advantages of discipline and regular pay. I asked them +whether they were not now much better off than when employed by their +own countrymen, and whether they expected to be treated as regular +soldiers, and still be allowed to plunder the inoffensive inhabitants? +One of the men, who was evidently an orator, listened to me with more +attention than the rest, but with a look of evident impatience for the +conclusion of my harangue, that he too might show how well he could +reason. "My lord," said the man, putting himself into an attitude +worthy of the Conciliation-Hall, to say nothing of St. Stephen's, +"my lord, on the whole your speech is very excellent: your pay is +good--the best, no doubt, and very regular; we have not hitherto been +accustomed to such treatment; though you brought the evil the remedy +has come with it; your arrival in C[=a]bul has so raised the price +of provisions that we could not live on Affgh[=a]n pay; we have, +therefore, entered the service of the foreigner; but had we received +the same wages we now get from you, we should in our own service have +been gentlemen." Here the orator made a pause, but soon imagining from +my silence that his speech was unobjectionable, he boldly continued; +"but there is one powerful argument in favour of the Ameer's service, +_he_ always allowed us on the line of march to plunder from every +one; we have been brought up in this _principle(!!)_ since we were +children, and we find it very difficult to refrain from what has so +long been an established practice amongst us: we are soldiers, sir, and +it is not much each man takes; but the British are so strict, that +they will protect a villager or even a stranger:" this last sentence +was evidently pronounced under a deep sense of unmerited oppression. +"But," continued he, "look at that apricot orchard on the right, how +ripe and tempting is the fruit; if we were not under your orders, +those trees would in a moment be as bare as the palm of my hand." But +I remarked, "would not the owners turn out and have a fight; is it not +better to go through a strange country peaceably and making friends?" +"_They_ fight," answered my hero; "oh! they are Uzbegs and no men, +more like women--one Affghan can beat three Uzbegs." I was not quite +satisfied how far the vaunted pay and discipline would prevail over +the natural lawless propensities of _my army_, and in order not to try +their insubordination too much, I conceived that a compromise would be +the wisest plan, and giving them a few rupees, I desired them to make +the most they could out of them. Off they went highly delighted with +the results of the interview, clapping their orator on the back, +crying out _sh[=a]bash, sh[=a]bash, bravo, bravo_, and evidently +believing the gift of the rupees as entirely due to the eloquence +of their comrade. They are a simple people with all their savage +characteristics, but it is very sad to contemplate a whole nation as a +race of systematic plunderers. + +In the afternoon the chief of M[=a]ther called to pay his respects, +bringing a present of fruit and sheep's milk; the latter I found so +palatable, that I constantly drank it afterwards; it is considered +very nutritious, and is a common beverage in Toorkisth[=a]n, where the +sheep are milked regularly three times a day. Goats are very scarce, +cows not to be seen, but the sheep's milk affords nourishment in +various forms, of which the most common is a kind of sour cheese, +being little better than curdled milk and salt. Tea is also a +favourite drink, but is taken without sugar or milk; the former is +too expensive for the poorer classes, and all prefer it without the +latter. Sometimes a mixture such as would create dismay at an English +tea-table is handed round, consisting principally of tea-leaves, salt, +and fat, like very weak and very greasy soup, and to an European +palate most nauseous. We could never reconcile our ideas to its being +a delicacy. Tea is to be procured in all large towns hereabouts, of +all qualities and at every price; at C[=a]bul the highest price for +tea is £5 sterling for a couple of pounds' weight; but this is of very +rare quality, and the leaf so fine and fragrant that a mere pinch +suffices a moderate party. + +What would our tea-drinking old ladies say for a few pounds of that +delicious treasure? This superfine leaf reaches Cabul from China +through Thibet, always maintaining its price; but it is almost +impossible to procure it unadulterated, as it is generally mixed by +the merchants with the lesser priced kind. The most acceptable present +which a traveller could offer in Toorkisth[=a]n would be _fire-arms_ +or _tea_; the latter is a luxury they indulge in to excess, taking it +after every meal; but they seldom are enabled to procure it without +the lawless assistance of the former. + +On leaving M[=a]ther we commenced the ascent of the Kara Kotul or +Black Pass, which lasted for seven long miles and was very fatiguing. +The large masses of rock on either side the pathway were of a deep +brown colour. From the length and steepness of the ascent, this pass +must be higher than any we had hitherto surmounted; the descent on the +other side is difficult in proportion. The approach to Doa[=u]b is +through one of the most romantic glens conceivable. It is here that +the Koollum river takes its rise; it flows due north and soon reaches +a mountain meadow, where it unites with another stream coming from the +east, whence the name of the Doa[=u]b (two waters) is given to this +district. In this defile are scattered huge rocks, which have been +dislodged from the overhanging precipices by the effects of frost or +convulsions of the elements: in vain do these masses obstruct the +progress of the waters of this river. The torrent dashing in cataracts +over some of the large boulders and eddying round the base of others, +pursues an agitated course until it reaches the desert, through which +it glides more calmly, and combines with the Oxus beyond Koollum, +whence the confluent waters proceed uninterruptedly to the sea of +Aral. + +The banks of this river differ from those of the mountain streams in +general; they were decked with the most beautiful wild flowers, which +bloomed luxuriantly on the bushes, and growing from the deep clefts in +the rock, scented the air with their perfume. + +The glen is here so filled with large blocks of granite, that to +accomplish our passage through it, it was necessary to transfer by +manual labour the loads of the baggage animals across the obstructing +masses: the difficulties we encountered, and more particularly the +romantic scene itself, are still imprinted on my memory. + +The wind whistling round the jutting points, the dashing of the +waters, and the cries of one of the most timid of our followers, who +to save himself from wet feet had mounted an overladen pony, and was +now in imminent danger both of Scylla and Charybdis, added to the +interest of the picture; but, occasionally, the reverberation caused +by the fragments of rock, which, detaching themselves from the upper +regions, came tumbling down, not far from where we stood, warned us +not to dwell upon the spot. We took the hint, and hastily extricating +man and beast, though not until they had experienced a severe ducking, +we proceeded onwards to where the waters enclose within their +fertilizing arms the grassy fields of the mountain Doa[=u]b. Here it +was that we caught the first glimpse of the extensive plains where the +Toorkm[=a]n mares are turned out to graze; those in foal are left for +several months; and after foaling, the animals are put into smaller +pastures provided with enclosures, where they are shut up at night. +The extent of the larger savannahs is very great, some of them +exceeding twenty miles, and the horses that are allowed to range in +them become so shy, that their owners only can approach them, and the +animals are considered safe from depredators. + +As we gradually emerged from the hard bosom of the mountains, we were +struck with the simple beauty of this little garden of nature. The +vale is triangular, its greatest breadth being about five miles; +its whole extent is covered with a rich turf, intermingled by just +sufficient cultivated land as to supply the inhabitants with +grain. Every wild flower that enlivens our English meads grew here +luxuriantly, while the two streams crept along on either side like +silver threads bordering a jewelled carpet. This gay and brilliant +sight was enhanced by the lofty range of dark frowning hills which +encompassed it. It was worthy of being sung as the "Loveliest vale in +Toorkisth[=a]n." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +I have already mentioned that we had received a letter to Shah Pursund +Kh[=a]n, the chief of the Doa[=u]b, who accordingly came out to +welcome us to his territory; he embraced us in the Uzbeg fashion, +telling us in eastern phraseology "to consider his dominion as +our own, and that we might command all he possessed." After many +compliments of this nature, he inquired with some bluntness whither +we were bound and what our object was? We answered him, that we were +proceeding to Koollum, and were anxious to get as much information as +he would be good enough to afford us concerning so beautiful a portion +of the globe, and we wished to survey its particular features. "Mind," +rejoined he, "that the chief of Heibuk and the Meer Walli of Koollum +are my enemies, and may be yours." "If," answered Sturt, "we shall +meet with the same reception from them as we have hitherto enjoyed +from all other chiefs whose possessions we have had occasion to +trespass upon during our journeyings, we cannot complain of want of +either kindness or hospitality; for as travellers we come, and once +eating the 'salt of an Uzbeg,' we know that none would dishonour +himself by acting the traitor." "True," retorted the kh[=a]n, "but he +who is your friend while in his dominions will rob you as soon as you +set your foot across his frontier." We were not much pleased at this +prospect, as we knew he spoke truth when declaring himself at enmity +with the surrounding chiefs, but "sufficient for the day is the evil +thereof," so we made up our minds to take what advantage we could of +his friendly disposition towards us, and trust to our good fortune and +the "chapter of accidents" for our future safety. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n +did not confine his kindness to words, for he sent us an ample supply +of flour and clarified butter for our followers, grass and corn for +our cattle, and a sheep for ourselves; these sheep are of the +Doomba species, with large tails weighing several pounds, which are +considered the most delicate part of the animal. He also sent us from +his harem an enormous dish of foul[=a]deh, made of wheat boiled to a +jelly and strained, and when eaten with sugar and milk palatable and +nutritious. + +The following morning, as we were preparing to start, I happened to +enter into conversation with an aged moollah, the solitary cicerone of +the Doa[=u]b, who gave us a brief but very extraordinary account of a +cavern about seven miles off; our curiosity was so much excited by the +marvellous details we heard, that we determined to delay our departure +for the purpose of ascertaining how much of his story was due to the +wild imagination of our informant. We accordingly gave orders to +unsaddle, and communicated our intentions to the khan. At first he +strongly urged us not to put our plan into execution, declaring that +the cave was the domicile of the evil one, and that no stranger who +had presumed to intrude upon the privacy of the awful inhabitant had +ever returned to tell of what he had seen. It will easily be imagined +that these warnings only made us more determined upon visiting the +spot. At length, finding our resolution immovable, the kh[=a]n, much +to our astonishment, declared that it was not from personal fear, but +from anxiety for our safety that he had endeavoured to deter us, but +that, as we were obstinate, he would at least afford us the advantage +of his protection, and accompany us, I confess we were not sanguine in +our expectations that he would keep his word, and were not a little +surprised to see him shortly after issue forth from his fort fully +armed, and accompanied by his principal followers. We immediately made +all necessary preparations, and started on our visit to his satanic +majesty. + +A bridle-path conducted us for some miles along the edge of a gentle +stream, whose banks were clothed with long luxuriant grass extending +on either side for a few hundred yards; we proceeded rapidly at first, +keeping our horses at a hand gallop, as the path was smooth, and also +to escape from the myriads of forest-flies or blood-suckers which were +perpetually hovering around us, and irritating our cattle almost to +madness whenever we were obliged to slacken our pace; our tormentors, +however, did not pursue us beyond the limits of the pasture land, so +that we were glad to exchange the beauties of the prairie for the +stony barren ground which succeeded it. We soon reached the base of +a hill from whence the wished-for cavern was visible, situated about +half-way up its face. We were now obliged to dismount, and leaving +our horses under the charge of an Uzbeg, who could hardly conceal his +delight at being selected for the least dangerous duty, we commenced +the ascent. + +During our ride I had endeavoured to gather a few more particulars +concerning the dreaded cavern, and as might have been expected, the +anticipated horrors dwindled away considerably as we approached it; +still enough of the marvellous remained to keep my curiosity on the +stretch. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n confessed that he was not positive +that the devil actually lived there, but still, he said, it was very +probable; he had first heard of the existence of the cave when he +obtained possession of the Do[=a]ub twelve years ago, from the very +moollah who was our informant. Urged by a curiosity similar to our +own, he had ventured some little distance inside, but suddenly he came +upon the print of a naked foot, and beside it another extraordinary +impression, which he suspected to be from the foot of sheittan (the +devil) himself; quite satisfied that he had gone far enough, he +retreated precipitately, and from that day to this had never intruded +again. He argued that any _human_ being living in the cave would +require sustenance, and of course would purchase it at his fort, which +was the only one where the necessaries of life could be procured for +many miles around; but he knew every one who came to him, and no +stranger had ever come on such an errand; he therefore concluded +with an appealing look to the moollah who was with us. The moollah, +however, had a tale of his own to tell, and seemed to have no great +respect for the superstitious fears of his patron. "The name of the +cavern is Yeerm[=a]lik, and the fact of the matter is this," said he, +settling himself in his saddle for a long story. "In the time of the +invasion, six hundred years ago, of Genghis Kh[=a]n the Tartar, seven +hundred men of the Huzareh tribe, with their wives and families and a +stock of provisions, took possession of this cavern, hoping to escape +the fury of the ruthless invader, and never stirred beyond its mouth. +But the cruel Genghis, after wasting the country with fire and sword, +set on foot a strict search for such of the unfortunate inhabitants as +had fled from his tyranny. His bloodhounds soon scented the wretched +Huzarehs, and a strong party was sent to drive them from their place +of refuge. But despair lent to the besieged a courage which was not +the characteristic of their tribe, and knowing that, if taken alive, a +lingering torture and cruel death would be their fate, they resolved +to make good their defence at every hazard. The mouth of the cave was +small, and no sooner did the invaders rush in than they were cut down +by those inside; in vain were more men thrust in to take the place of +those slain; the advantages of position were too great, and they were +obliged at length to desist. But Genghis was not to be balked of his +victims, and his devilish cunning suggested the expedient of lighting +straw at the mouth of the cave to suffocate those inside, but the size +of the place prevented his plan from taking effect; so he at last +commanded a large fragment of rock to be rolled to the mouth of the +cavern, adding another as a support, and having thus effectually +barred their exit, he cruelly abandoned them to their fate. Of course +the whole party suffered a miserable death, and it is perhaps the +spirits of the murdered men that, wandering about and haunting it, +have given a suspicious character to the place; but," concluded he, +rather dogmatically, "the devil _does not_ live there now--it is too +cold!!"[*] + +[* Note: Those who have been familiarized to the atrocities +perpetrated by the French in Algeria will not feel the horror that the +moollah's tale would otherwise have excited; the similarity of these +outrages to humanity is so striking, that I quote a passage extracted +from the French paper, "The National," which will speak for itself. + +"The National gives a frightful picture of Marshal Bugeaud's doings +in Africa. According to the accounts published by this paper, +fifty prisoners were one day shot in cold blood--thirteen villages +burned--the Dahra massacre acted over again, for it appears that a +portion of a tribe having hid themselves in a cave, the same means +were resorted to exactly as those employed by Colonel Pelissier, and +all smoked and baked to death. The Marshal himself is the author of +all these horrors--his last triumph was a monster razzia--he has +ordered the most strict secresy as to his barbarous proceedings; and +the writer of the accounts calls him a second Attila, for he puts all +to the sword and fire, sparing only women and children."] + +After scrambling over loose stones, climbing up precipices, and +crawling round the projecting rocks, which consumed an hour, we found +ourselves on a small ledge in front of the outer aperture, which was +nearly circular and about fifty feet high. We were now in a cavern +apparently of no great extent, and as I could not discover any other +passage, I began to fancy that it was for this paltry hole we had +undergone so much fatigue, and had had our expectations raised so +high. I was about to give utterance to my disappointment, when I +perceived the Uzbegs preparing their torches and arranging the line of +march, in which it seemed that no one was anxious to take precedence. +I now began to look about me, in the hope that there was something +more to be seen, and was delighted to observe one adventurous hero +with a torch disappear behind some masses of rock. We all followed our +leader, and it was with great difficulty that, one by one, we managed +to squeeze ourselves through a narrow gap between two jagged rocks, +which I presume I am to consider as the identical ones that were +rolled to the mouth six hundred years ago at the stern command of the +Tartar Attila. + +I confess that hitherto I had treated the moollah's account as an +idle tale; my unbelief, however, was quickly removed, for just as we +entered the narrow passage the light of the torches was for an instant +thrown upon a group of human skeletons. I saw them but for an instant, +and the sight was quite sufficient to raise my drooping curiosity to +its former pitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +We proceeded down the sloping shaft, occasionally bruising ourselves +against its jagged sides, until our leader suddenly came to a dead +halt. I was next to him, and coming up as close as I could, I found +that one step further would have precipitated the adventurous guide +into an abyss, the bottom and sides of which were undistinguishable; +after gazing for a moment into this apparently insurmountable obstacle +to our further progress, I could just perceive a narrow ledge about +sixteen feet below me, that the eye could trace for a few yards +only, beyond which it was lost in the deep gloom surrounding us. Our +conductor had already made up his mind what to do: he proceeded to +unwind his long narrow turban composed of cotton cloth, and called to +his comrades to do the same; by joining these together they formed a +kind of rope by means of which we gradually lowered each other, till +at last a party ten in number were safely landed on the ledge. We left +a couple of men to haul us up on our return, and proceeded on our way, +groping along the brink of the yawning chasm. Every now and then loose +stones set in motion by our feet would slip into this bottomless pit, +and we could hear them bounding down from ledge to ledge, smashing +themselves into a thousand fragments, till the echoes so often +repeated were like the independent file-firing of a battalion of +infantry. Sometimes the narrow path would be covered for a distance of +many feet with a smooth coat of ice, and then it was indeed dangerous. +After moving on in this way for some minutes, the road gradually +widened till we found ourselves on the damp and dripping flooring of a +chamber of unknown dimensions; the torch light was not strong enough +to enable us to conceive the size of this subterraneous hall, but all +around us lay scattered melancholy proofs that there was some sad +foundation for the moollah's story. Hundreds of human skeletons were +strewed around; as far as the eye could penetrate these mournful +relics presented themselves; they were very perfect, and had evidently +not been disturbed since death; some had more the appearance of the +shrivelled-up remains which we find in the Morgue on the road to +the Grand St. Bernard, and lay about us in all the varied positions +induced by their miserable fate. Here, it seemed that a group had, +while sufficient strength yet remained, huddled themselves together, +as if to keep up the vital warmth of which death so slowly and yet +so surely was depriving them; a little farther on was a figure in a +sitting posture, with two infants still clasped in its bony arms; +and then again the eye would fall upon some solitary figure with +outstretched limbs, as if courting that death which on the instant +responded to the call. Involuntarily my thoughts recurred to Dante's +beautiful description of the Comte Ugolino's children and their +piteous end in the Torre della Fame--but here, a sickening sense of +the dreadful reality of the horrors, which it was evident from these +mute memorials of man's cruelty to his fellow had been endured, quite +oppressed me, and I wished I had never visited the spot. I felt myself +so much harrowed by this sad scene, that I endeavoured to distract +my attention; but what was my astonishment when my eye fell upon the +print of a human naked foot, and beside it the distinct mark of the +pointed heel of the Affgh[=a]n boot!--I hope my reader will give me +credit for truth--I can assure him that it was some time before I +could believe my own eyes, though I considered that the result of our +explorations would explain in part the sight, which appeared to me +so extraordinary, and which tallied so strangely with the footprints +which had frightened Shah Pursund Khan twelve years ago. I was still +absorbed in reflections of no very gay colour, when one of the +attendants warned me that if I staid all day amongst the "dead +people," there would not be sufficient oil to feed the torches, and we +should be unable to visit the Ice Caves. I was immediately roused, +and proceeded onwards with the party through several low arches and +smaller caves,--suddenly a strange glare spread itself about me, and +after a few more steps a magnificent spectacle presented itself. + +[Illustration: Drawn by Mr Gempertz Pelham Richardson Litho + +View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik.] + +In the centre of a large cave stood an enormous mass of clear ice, +smooth and polished as a mirror, and in the form of a gigantic beehive, +with its dome-shaped top just touching the long icicles which depended +from the jagged surface of the rock. A small aperture led to the +interior of this wonderful congelation, the walls of which were nearly +two feet thick--the floor, sides, and roof were smooth and slippery, +and our figures were reflected from floor to ceiling and from side to +side in endless repetition. The inside of this chilly abode was divided +into several compartments of every fantastic shape; in some the glittering +icicles hung like curtains from the roof; in others the vault was +smooth as glass. Beautifully brilliant were the prismatic colours +reflected from the varied surface of the ice, when the torches flashed +suddenly upon them as we passed from cave to cave. Around, above, +beneath, every thing was of solid ice, and being unable to stand on +account of its slippery nature, we slid or rather glided mysteriously +along the glassy surface of this hall of spells. In one of the largest +compartments the icicles had reached the floor, and gave the idea of +pillars supporting the roof. Altogether the sight was to me as novel +as it was magnificent, and I only regret that my powers of description +are inadequate to do justice to what I saw. + +After wandering for some time amongst these extraordinary chambers, we +proceeded further to examine the nature of the caverns in which they +were formed: these seemed to branch out into innumerable galleries, +which again intersected each other. Sometimes they expanded into +halls, the dimensions of which our feeble light prevented us from +calculating, and anon they contracted into narrow passages, so low +that we were obliged to creep along them on our hands and knees. Our +party had just emerged from one of these defiles and were standing +together on a kind of sloping platform, at which point the declivity +seemed to become more precipitous as it receded from our sight, +when our attention was suddenly arrested by the reappearance of the +mysterious naked footprints which I had before observed in the chamber +of skeletons. I examined them minutely, and am certain from the spread +of the toes that they belonged to some one who was in the habit of +going barefoot. I took a torch, and determined to trace them as far as +I could. Had I met with these prints in the open air, I should have +decided upon their being quite fresh, but the even temperature and +stillness of atmosphere which reigned in these strange regions might +account for the tracks retaining that sharpness of outline which +denotes a recent impression. The direction I took led me immediately +down the slope I have just mentioned, and its increasing steepness +caused me some misgivings as to how I should get back, when suddenly a +large stone on which I had rested my foot gave way beneath my weight, +and down I came, extinguishing my torch in my fall. Luckily I managed +to stop myself from rolling down the fearful chasm which yawned +beneath, but the heavy rounded fragment of rock rolled onwards, first +with a harsh grating sound, as if it reluctantly quitted its resting +place, then, gradually acquiring impetus, down it thundered, striking +against other rocks and dragging them on with it, till the loud echoes +repeated a thousand times from the distant caves mingling with the +original sound raised a tumult of noise quite sufficient to scare a +braver crew than our party consisted of. The effect of my mishap was +instantaneous. Our followers raised an universal shout of Sheit[=a]n, +Sheit[=a]n, (the devil, the devil,) and rushed helter skelter back +from the direction of the sound. In the confusion all the torches +carried by the natives were extinguished, and had not my friend Sturt +displayed the most perfect coolness and self-possession, we should +have been in an alarming predicament; for he (uninfluenced by any such +supernatural fears as had been excited amongst the runaways by the +infernal turmoil produced by my unlucky foot, and though himself +ignorant of the cause of it from having been intent upon the footmarks +when I slipped), remained perfectly unmoved with his torch, the only +one still burning, raised high above his head, waiting patiently till +the panic should subside. Order was at length restored in some degree, +but the thirst of enterprise was cooled, and the natives loudly +declared they would follow the devil no farther, and that we must +return forthwith. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, who was just as great a coward +as the rest, declared it was no use following the track any more, for +it was well known the cavern extended to Cabul!!! Finding it useless +endeavouring to revive the broken spirits of these cravens, we +reluctantly commenced a retrograde movement, and I was obliged to +remain in lasting ignorance of the nature of the mysterious origin of +the footprint. + +We had considerable difficulty in finding our way back to the ice +rooms; the fears of our followers had now completely got the better of +them; they lost their presence of mind, and, consequently, their way; +and it was not till after we had wandered about for more than an hour +that we hit upon the ledge which eventually led us to the drop which +we had originally descended by means of the ladder of turbans. At the +head of this drop we had left a couple of men to haul us up; as soon +as they perceived the light of our expiring torches, they called out +loudly to us to make haste and get out of the place, for they had seen +the _Sheit[=a]n_, about an hour ago, run along the ledge beneath them, +and disappear in the gloom beyond. This information raised the terror +of the poor natives to a climax; all made a rush for the rope of +turbans, and four or five having clutched hold of it, were in the act +of dragging down turban, men, and torches upon our devoted heads, when +Sturt interfered, and by his firm remonstrances, aided by the timely +fall of a few well-aimed stones upon the heads of the crew, made them +relax their grasp and ascend one by one. + +The chief, being the lightest, claimed the privilege of being drawn up +first, which was readily agreed to; and so in succession each when he +had mounted assisted in drawing up his companions, till at last we +were all safely landed at the top, out of the reach of _any ordinary +sized_ devil. We soon emerged into the open air, covered with dust +from head to foot like Indian Faqueers, after having been for nearly +four hours wandering in the bowels of the earth. Our followers soon +regained their courage now that the danger was past, and each in turn +began to boast of his own valour and sneer at the pusillanimity of his +comrade; but all agreed that nothing on earth or in heaven should ever +tempt them again to visit the ice-caves of Yeermallick. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +On the 13th of July we bade adieu to our friend Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, +who accompanied us a short distance on our way, after in vain +endeavouring to induce us to remain with him for some time longer, +this we could not accede to, but promised, if our time permitted, to +pay him a lengthened visit on our return. We had a long march this +day, the distance being nearly eighteen miles; but our beasts of +burden were much the better for their day's halt, and, the greater +part of the road being a descent, we reached Rhoeh, where we pitched +our tents, in very good time. The first few miles were along the +delightful valley of the Doaub, which we reluctantly quitted, and +after crossing a low ridge descended through broken country till we +reached the foot of the hills, where I observed for the first time +a genuine Tartar krail, composed of a number of small black blanket +tents fastened to a kind of wattle. In the plain of Rhoeh is a small +mud fort in a dilapidated state, and uninhabited; the village itself +was not of any importance, the habits of the people being evidently +migratory. + +The Jerboa is a native of this country as well as the steppes of +Tartary, where it is most commonly found in the shrubless plains; +in form it is a miniature of the kangaroo, to which in some of its +peculiarities it bears a close resemblance, though in size it is very +little larger than our common English rat. The name of the "Vaulting +Rat," by which it is known among naturalists, is very applicable. +These little animals burrow deeply in the ground, and the method of +dislodging them adopted by us was the pouring a quantity of water into +their holes, which causes them to rush out at another aperture, when +they commence leaping about in a surprising manner until they observe +another burrow and instantly disappear. If chased, they spring from +the hind quarters, darting about here and there, and affording great +amusement to the pursuers. It is difficult to hold them, as they are +rarely grasped without losing a portion of their long and beautiful +tails. The forelegs are much shorter than the hind ones, the ears are +very large and silky, and the eye surpassingly black and brilliant. +It is a harmless animal, and no doubt when tamed would be perfectly +domesticated. + +Nothing of interest occurred either this day or the next, which +brought us, after another dreary march of seventeen miles, to the fort +and village of Koorrum. For nearly the whole distance between Rhoeh +and Koorrum not a drop of water is procurable; as we had not provided +against this contingency, we suffered in proportion. Altogether this +part of the road offers considerable obstacles to the progress of an +army, from its numerous ravines and steep though short ascents and +descents, which would be very difficult for artillery; I should, from +a cursory glance at the country, imagine that these steep pitches +might be avoided by a more circuitous route, though the one we pursued +was the beaten track for the caravans, and they generally find out the +most convenient passage. The approach to Koorrum was pretty, but the +scenery was of a character with which we were now so familiar that +its peculiar beauties did not perhaps impress us as much as when they +afforded the additional charm of novelty. A succession of walnut, +apricot, mulberry, and apple trees shaded our path, which lay through +extensive orchards, carpeted with beautiful turf. The vines clung to +the sycamore trees; and where the spade had been at work, corn and +artificial grasses grew in abundance. Our next halting place was +Sarbagh, where we arrived on the 15th, after marching through a +pleasant and fruitful valley, flanked by parallel belts of mountain +land, the agreeable verdure relieving the eye from the barrenness of +this, I may call it, parietal range. The ornamental trees which fringe +the banks of the Koollum river, as it gracefully pursues its course to +the Oxus, had altogether a very picturesque appearance. + +The son of Baber Beg, the chief of Heibuk, was at this time residing +at Sarbagh, and shewed us every possible attention, sending us sheep, +fowls, corn, flour, fruit, and every article required for about +seventy people. It was very gratifying to us to find that we were +treated by the Uzbeg chiefs in so friendly a manner, as we had some +misgivings lest our being unprovided with any letters from influential +men in C[=a]bul, might create unfavourable surmises amongst a +half-savage and naturally suspicious race. Doubtless we gained a large +portion of attention and civility from the idea which pervaded all our +hosts that we were great hakeems, _physicians_, and if we chose, +could relieve the human body from every illness whether real or +imaginary--and I was glad to remark that the latter class of ailment +was by far the most common. Still, some diseases were very prevalent, +particularly those which may be considered as induced by a total +absence of cleanliness. Sore eyes were very common here, as in +Affghanist[=a]n, and our powers and medicine chest were sometimes +rather too severely taxed by importunate applicants, who never would +apply the remedy in the manner described, unless it was administered +upon principles which they understood, and which was in accordance +with their own reasoning. In C[=a]bul, the medical officers were the +only class of Europeans allowed an entrance to the harems of the rich, +when they were expected after feeling the pulse of some Cashmerian +beauty to pronounce her malady, and effect her cure forthwith. The +lords of the creation too, debilitated from early dissipation or a +life of debauchery, sued for remedies and charms, which, alas! are +only to be found in the hundredth edition of a work known by its +mysterious advertisement in the columns of a London newspaper. + +On the 16th, after a long march of twenty-two miles, we approached +Heibuk through the same kind of scenery as the preceding day; on +rounding a projecting ledge of rock we saw that fortress in the +distance, on an insulated eminence adjacent to a low range of hills. +Meer Baber Beg has placed his fortress in a very respectable state +of defence, quite adequate to repel the desultory inroads of his +predatory neighbours; but commanded by and exposed to enfilade from +the hills about it, on one of these hills he has built a tower as a +kind of outwork, but it is very weak and of insignificant size. + +The only thing worth seeing near Heibuk is the Tukt-i-Rustum or Throne +of Hercules, which we accordingly visited, and found it to be a +fortification of no very great extent on a most uncommon principle, +and of unknown date. The best idea I can convey to the reader of its +shape, is by begging him to cut an orange in half, and place its +flat surface in a saucer; he will then have a tolerable model of the +Tukt-i-Rustum. We entered by a narrow gallery piercing through the +solid mass of rock which forms the outer wall or saucer, and leading +by an irregular flight of steps to the summit of the orange. I +instituted many enquiries concerning the origin of this place, but +I could obtain no information; not even a legend beyond that it was +holy. We were accompanied by one of the chief's sons, a fat jolly +youth of about four-and-twenty, with a countenance that was a type of +his good humour--he sat with us for some time whilst we were at our +toilette, but affected to be somewhat shocked at the very scanty +clothing which we considered sufficient while our Bheesties poured the +contents of their mussocks[*] over us. It was rather amusing to hear +the remarks of the bystanders, who seemed to view cleanliness as +a consideration very secondary to etiquette. It would have been +fortunate for us if I could have persuaded our criticising friends to +try on their own persons the advantage of a dash of fresh water, for +they were without exception the most filthy race it has ever been my +misfortune to meet; their garments teem with life, and sometimes, +after merely sitting on the same rug placed to receive visitors, I +have been under the necessity of making a fresh toilette. + +[* Note: Skins of water.] + +Meer Baber Beg was a great man in these parts, and kindly sent us +three sheep, with fowls, flour, fruits, and grain in abundance, +intimating, at the same time, his intention to pay us a visit in the +evening. He came accordingly, and favoured us with his presence for a +considerable time. He seemed an intelligent man, but in a very infirm +state of health, and quite crippled from rheumatism. One would hardly +have supposed, while admiring his pleasing features, which expressed +so much benignity, that when on the throne of Koollum he had been such +a bloody tyrant; yet such was the case;--though the hereditary ruler +of Koollum and its dependencies, he had by his brutality made himself +so obnoxious, that he was deposed by his own subjects headed by his +younger brother, and dare not now shew his face on his paternal +estate. + +This corpulent son whom I have before mentioned brought a +double-barrelled percussion gun for my inspection, and requested that +I would test its qualities on some pigeons that were flying about; +I was fortunate enough to bring down a couple on the wing, but was +somewhat mortified to find that the burst of admiration which followed +my feat was entirely confined to the weapon, which, together with the +donor, Dr. Lord, was praised to the skies, whilst no kind of credit +was given to my skill in using it. + +We halted at Heibuk on the 17th, as the Meer requested we would stay a +day with him before putting ourselves in the power of the dreaded Meer +Walli of Koollum. At first he endeavoured to persuade us to abandon +our project of proceeding further, but, finding us determined, he +contented himself with relating every possible story he could remember +or invent concerning the many acts of cruel treachery which the +Meer Walli had perpetrated, and concluded by an eulogium on his own +manifold virtues. + +During the course of the day a Hindoo from Peshawur peeped cautiously +into my tent, and, on my inquiring his business, he approached, and +with many salaams, laid a bag of money at my feet; rather astonished +at so unusual an offering, I requested to know the cause of this act +of generosity, and I was informed that it was a "first offering," or, +in other words, a bribe to propitiate me, in the hope that I would use +my influence to get the Hindoo out of the clutches of Meer Baber Beg. +The story he told me was, that some years back he came to Heibuk to +trade, and having made a little money was packing up his property +preparatory to his departure, when he was suddenly ordered into the +Meer's presence. "Friend," said this benign ruler, "stay here a +little longer; it is not right that, having made a sum of money in my +country, you should spend it in your own." Since then, he added, he +had been ill-treated and robbed several times to satisfy the rapacity +of this wicked monster; and then, as if frightened at his own +expressions, he peered cautiously round the tent, apparently fancying +the Meer himself would start from behind the screen to punish him for +his audacity. I returned him his 250 rupees, but told him if his story +were true I would use what little influence I possessed to procure his +release. When Baber Beg came to pay us his evening visit I broached +the subject, and requested as a favour that the Hindoo might be +permitted to accompany our party as a guide and interpreter. "If you +will take my advice," said he, "you will have nothing to say to the +scoundrel, who will come to a bad end: he has been deceiving you; but +if, after my warning, you still wish to have him as a guide, take him +by all means." + +Accordingly I took him, but in justice to the Meer's discrimination of +character it must be owned that my protegé, as soon as he considered +himself safe from the Meer's indignation, proved himself to the +full as great a scoundrel as he had been represented. The following +morning, before taking our departure, Sturt presented to the Meer's +youngest son a handsome pair of percussion pistols, for which the +father seemed so very grateful that I could not help suspecting he +intended to appropriate them to his own use as soon as we were well +away. + +On leaving the fortress of Heibuk we passed through a very extensive +cultivated district, the principal produce being the grain which in +Hindoostan is called jow[=a]r. The remaining portion of our journey to +Hazree Soolt[=a]n, which was a distance of eighteen miles, was nothing +but a barren waste with occasional patches of low jungle. We were now +evidently on the farthest spur of the Hindoo Khoosh; the hills were +low and detached, gradually uniting into the endless plain which +bounded the horizon to the north and west. On the road we met a +messenger who was on his way to Sir Alexander Burnes at K[=a]bul, +having come from Bokhara, bearing a letter from the _Vakeel_, or +native ambassador, whom Sir Alexander had sent some time back to +endeavour, by persuasion or stratagem, to effect the release of our +unfortunate countryman, Col. Stoddart. The courier, who had received +the account from the Vakeel, whether true or false he could not +inform us, stated "that Col. Stoddart accompanied the Persian army to +Her[=a]t, and finding they could not make the desired impression +on the walls, raised the siege, and the Colonel left the army and +proceeded across to Bokhara, whether to endeavour to effect the +release of the Russian slaves, (there being many in the dominions of +the Bokhara King,) or merely for amusement, he could not say; but that +the latter was the generally received opinion. On approaching the city +of the tyrant king he met a man riding furiously away with a woman, +and as she passed, called out to the Colonel Amaun, Amaun! mercy, +mercy! whereupon he immediately galloped up to the ravisher, and +securing the deliverance of the woman, told her to keep under his +protection until he entered the city. On the first day after +his arrival the King passed as the Colonel was riding on +horseback, and although the latter gave the salute usual +in his own country, it did not satisfy the ruler; moreover, he, the +Feringhi, was on horseback without permission, and therefore the Khan +ordered him the following day into his presence. Messengers the next +morning were sent, who abruptly entered the Colonel's house, and +finding he would not willingly submit, dragged him before their chief. +He was asked, why he had infringed the customs of the country by +riding on horseback in the city, and why he did not pay the recognised +submission to the ruler of a free country? The reply was, that the +same compliment had been paid to the King of Bokhara as was customary +in Europe to a crowned head. And why have you presumed to ride on +horseback within the city walls, where no Feringhi is allowed? Because +I was ignorant of the custom. It's a lie; my messengers ordered you +to dismount and you would not. 'Tis true, they did order me and I did +not, but I thought they were doing more than their duty. After this +the King ordered him into confinement, where he now is." + +The courier, after giving us this information, remarked that he +was penniless, and that as his business concerned the safety of a +countryman, he hoped we would assist him. Though we were not quite +satisfied with the man's story, we stood the chance of its being true, +and furnished him with funds for the prosecution of his journey, +for which, on our return to Cabul, we were kindly thanked by Sir +Alexander, who informed us that the note from the Vakeel conveyed the +intelligence of the failure of his endeavours, and that he had himself +been put in confinement. + +At the time of which I am writing both Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n and his +notorious son Akbar were prisoners at Bokhara; but the means taken +by _their_ friends to release them were more successful than those +adopted by our politicals at Cabul. It appears that the chief at Shere +Subz had for some time been at enmity with his Bokhara neighbour, and, +wishing to do Dost Mahommed a good turn, he picked out fifty of the +most expert thieves in his dominions--a difficult selection where the +claims of all to this bad preeminence were so strong--but the Shere +Subz chief was from experience a tolerable judge of the qualifications +of an expert rogue, and having pitched upon his men, he promised them +valuable presents, provided they effected, by whatever means they +might choose to adopt, the release of the Dost; hinting at the same +time that if they failed he should be under the necessity of seizing +and selling their families. The thieves were successful, and at the +expiration of a month the Dost was free. + +If we could have interested the chief of Shere Subz in our favour by +presents and fair words, might not the same means have been employed +for the rescue of poor Stoddart? The only way to deal with a ruffian +like him of Bokhara would have been by pitting against him some of his +own stamp. + +The King of Bokhara has several times endeavoured to coerce the +Shere Subz's chief, but the instant a hostile force appears on his +frontiers, the latter causes the whole of his country to be inundated, +so that the invader is obliged to retire, and is by this stratagem +kept at a respectful distance. + +Another traveller came across us this day, who had resided for some +years at Kok[=a]n, and furnished us with some account of the nature of +the Chinese garrison of that fort. It is situated on an isolated rock, +and every five years relieved with men, provisions, and ammunition; +the flanks of the bastions are armed with ponderous wall pieces, +requiring three men to work them. Chambers are also bored in the live +rock, from whence enormous masses of stone might be discharged on an +assailing foe. The Kok[=a]nese have often attempted to dislodge the +intruders, but owing to the good state of defence in which the fort +is kept, and the strong escorts under which the reliefs are regularly +forwarded, they have been always repulsed with severe loss. My +informant had been in the service of the Kok[=a]nese, and was now on +his way to Hindoostan; in military notions he must have been of the +famous Captain Dugald Dalgetty's school, for I afterwards met him as a +non-commissioned officer in Shah Seujah's Goorkah battalion. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + +A march of eighteen miles brought us on the 19th July to Koollum. + +[Illustration: Drawn by J. Cowell Esq! Pelham Richardson Litho + +View of Koollum, from the eastward.] + +The road continued along the banks of the river, through a wide valley +bounded by low distant hills for nearly the whole way. Towards the end +of our journey a spur from these hills struck right across the direction +of the river, which had forced for itself a passage through the obstacle +without deviating much from its rectilinear course, but considerably +disturbing its previously placid character, for here it rushed with +impetuous violence through the narrow cleft which it had formed, through +this, the most advanced outpost of the glorious range of the Hindoo +Khoosh. The defile, though short, was difficult of access and capable of +being long defended; there is a small tower about the centre, slightly +removed from and commanding the road: but a mere handfull of troops +stationed on the crags above could, by hurling down the loosened masses +of rock which totter on the edge of the cliff, for a time effectually +stop the progress of a hostile army from either side. I should imagine, +however, that this as well as every other pass I have ever seen except +the Khyber and Bolun would be more easily turned than forced. + +On emerging from this last defile, a prospect presents itself strongly +contrasting with the romantic scenery we had recently been witnessing. +Immediately before us lay the populous city of Koollum, the fortress +standing on a small isolated eminence, and the dome-shaped houses +embosomed in the deep foliage of their gardens and orchards clustered +round it for miles on every side. Immediately on the outskirts of the +city the desert commences, which, stretching away to Bokhara as far as +the eye could reach, formed a melancholy and uninviting background +to the busy scene before us. As we approached the city, we had our +misgivings as to the nature of our reception by the Meer Walli, as, +contrary to the treatment we had invariably experienced from the +chiefs of all the considerable places through which we had had +occasion to pass since entering Toorkisth[=a]n, no one appeared on the +part of the Meer to welcome us. At length, after wandering about the +suburbs for more than an hour, followed by a crowd of gaping idlers +who seemed half disposed to question our right of _squatting_, we +selected an open space and commenced unloading our baggage animals, +and prepared to establish ourselves. + +Our spirits were raised, however, soon after, by the welcome arrival +of an officer of the Meer's household, who was sent by his master +to convey us to the caravanserai, where, after a short period, we +received three or four sheep with fruit and other provisions of all +descriptions, which supply was regularly continued during the whole +time we remained at Koollum. Our uneasiness, thus quieted, was soon +entirely dispelled by a message announcing that a visit from the great +man himself would take place in the evening. We must have been rather +difficult to please, however, on this particular day, for after the +wished-for visit was over, we both agreed that it had been dreadfully +tiresome; to be sure, as fate would have it, we had not had time to +eat our dinner before his arrival, and etiquette obliged us to defer +eating till after his departure, which did not release us till past +midnight, though he made his appearance soon after eight o'clock. + +In person the Meer Walli was certainly very prepossessing; his voice +was peculiarly musical, and his manner gentlemanly and easy; his face +would have been eminently handsome but for a dreadful wound by which +he had lost a portion of his nose. At this our first interview nothing +relative to our own future proceedings was discussed, though that +was the subject uppermost in our own minds, as we could not but feel +ourselves entirely at the mercy of a robber prince of notorious +character. As it was, the conversation was made up of those +compliments and common-places with which the Orientals know so well +how to fill up "awkward pauses," when, for reasons of their own, they +do not intend talking upon the real business. He very politely acceded +to our request of visiting the bazaar the following morning, which +being market-day, the influx of strangers from the Tartar encampments +at the different oases of the Bokhara Desert, and country people from +the Toorkisth[=a]n mountains, was very great. One of his household was +always in attendance as we passed out of the gate of the caravanserai, +where we lodged, to conduct us about, and act in the double capacity +of spy and cicerone. The city was crowded, and our appearance excited +considerable sensation--much more so in truth than was pleasant, for +we were followed wherever we went by a very curious and a very dirty +crowd. We had heard a good deal about the Mahommedan college at +Koollum, and of course were very anxious to see what comparison +existed between it and our own colleges: we could trace none beyond +the term of college. The house itself was new and capacious, with +clean-looking apartments for the scholars. We entered the halls +of study, which were long narrow verandahs, and found several +white-bearded and sagacious-looking Moollahs reading out portions of +the Kor[=a]n to their attentive scholars, with a grave countenance and +a loud nasal twang, exciting a propensity to laughter which I with +difficulty repressed. I do not think the reasoning of the college is +very deep, or that the talents of its senior wrangler need be very +first-rate, and am inclined to suspect that this pompous reading +was got up for the occasion for the purpose of astonishing the weak +intellects of the Feringhee strangers. + +From the college we proceeded to the slave market, which was well +furnished, and chiefly supplied from the ever victimized Huzarehs; the +women were generally ill-favoured, but all appeared contented with +their lot so that _somebody_ purchased them. After making the tour of +the city in search of wonders, we returned home, hot, wearied, and +disappointed, for we had found nothing to repay us for the annoyances +we had been subjected to from the impertinent curiosity of the filthy +multitude. Our own intentions were to get away from Koollum in order +to be able to reach Balkh and return to C[=a]bul before the cold +weather should set in; but alas! our wishes were not destined to be +fulfilled. Our uneasiness concerning the real intentions of the Meer +was again excited towards the evening, for one of our followers came +to us almost frantic with terror, stammering out as soon as his +nervous state permitted him to speak, that he had heard it stated as a +notorious fact that we were all to be detained at Koollum--that such +was the pleasure of the Meer. The reader will believe that this +intelligence was any thing but satisfactory; I could not help +conjuring up visions of a long and wearisome captivity--of hope +deferred and expectations disappointed--with Stoddart's melancholy +situation as a near precedent. I managed to make myself for a short +time as thoroughly uncomfortable as if I were already a prisoner, but +soon a sense of the great foolishness of indulging in this tone of +thought came over me, and making a strong effort to shake off the +gloomy shadows of an imaginary future, I betook myself to consider the +best means of ascertaining, in the first instance, the truth of the +report, which if I had done so at once would have saved me a good deal +of painful thought. As a preliminary step I desired a couple of our +Affgh[=a]n escort to proceed, so as not to excite suspicion, to the +bourj or _watch tower_ in the centre of the defile by which we had +approached Koollum, and through which our only retreat must have been, +to ascertain if the post was occupied by any of the Meer's people. +They soon brought us the satisfactory intelligence that not a man +was to be seen; but the Affgh[=a]ns qualified their information by +persisting in their opinion that some treachery was intended. So +strong was this feeling amongst our men that it became imperatively +necessary that our doubts should be resolved into certainty one way +or the other, and Sturt and I, after a short consultation, determined +that at the interview which was to take place next morning we should +put the question to the chief categorically. Having come to this +conclusion, we were obliged to smoke the "pipe of patience" on the +"couch of uncertainty" till the Meer Walli arrived. + +The Meer made his appearance the following morning, and, after the +usual compliments, to our great astonishment himself touched on the +subject. "I have heard," said he, "that you have sent out spies to see +if the Bourj in the defile is occupied, and if any of my people +are abroad to restrain your movements." This was rather an ominous +commencement: "but," continued the old gentleman, "if such had been my +intention, could I not have put the whole of you into confinement the +moment you arrived? At all events, what could you and your party +do against my force?" Sturt glanced his eye at the speaker; for an +instant, too, it rested on me, as if to read my opinion; then he +boldly answered, "You may outnumber us by thousands, but you will +never capture us alive." He said this so calmly, with such politeness +of manner, and yet so firmly, that the Meer was evidently taken aback: +at length he replied, "But no such piece of villainy has ever entered +my head." He then adroitly changed the subject, and shortly after took +his leave. + +When he was gone we held another council of war. It was by no means +clear that the last declaration of the chief was a sincere one; but +it might have been a temporizing answer elicited by the perhaps +unexpected boldness of Sturt's remark. We determined, at all events, +to keep on the alert, guard against any surprise, avoid as much as +possible offering any pretext for offence, and, if the worst came to +the worst, make as good a resistance as we could. + +The next day we received a polite message, requesting an interview, +and asking us to visit him in his favourite garden. Under all +circumstances we deemed it best to allow it to appear that our +suspicions were dissipated, and we accordingly accepted the +invitation, and found the Meer seated on the chabooka, or _raised +platform of masonry_, under the shade of some magnificent trees. He +immediately commenced saying, "The reason I did not go out to meet you +as you approached my city is, that during the warm weather I sleep the +greater portion of the day and sit up enjoying the coolness of the +night air; but I sent a messenger to escort you in with all care, and +unfortunately _he missed the way_." Such an excuse was possible, but +not at all probable. We did not give him credit for telling the truth +about the guide, as there was only one road from Heibuk, and the +approach of our party to Koollum was known in the city several days +before our arrival. It was now evident to us that on our approach the +Meer Walli was undecided whether he should treat us as friends or +foes; it seemed that for the present he had determined in our favour, +but distrusting his capricious disposition we were only the more +anxious to get out of his reach, though we both agreed that the wisest +and safest plan would be to carry our heads very high and put a bold +front upon all our proceedings. This decision we came to whilst +sitting in the garden in the presence of the Meer. Suddenly we heard +a confused murmur behind us, and the heavy sound of the butt end of +several muskets striking the ground as in "ordering arms;" we turned +sharply round, and perceived with astonishment, not unmingled +with satisfaction, that six or eight of our Affgh[=a]n guard, +notwithstanding the numerous followers round the Meer, had entered the +garden of their own accord and placed themselves immediately in our +rear with bayonets fixed. The Meer appeared to take no notice of this +extraordinary intrusion, and after a few compliments permitted us to +withdraw. + +On returning to the caravanserai we inquired why the guard had acted +thus without orders; they told us they had secretly heard that +treachery was intended by the Meer towards us, and that therefore they +had deemed it their duty to protect us from any surprise; moreover, +that ten more of the guard had been stationed close outside the garden +ready to support them at a moment's notice. Our own opinion was that +at that time nothing of the kind was in contemplation, but it was +satisfactory to view the determined spirit which animated our men. +Strange anomaly that these very men who now came voluntarily forward +to protect our persons from insult at the imminent risk of their +lives, should have been found amongst those who, with their arms and +accoutrements, had deserted in a body from the British to the side of +the Ex-Ameer at the battle of Bamee[=a]n a few months after. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +Pursuant to our plan of appearing to have full confidence in the Meer +Walli's integrity of purpose, we affected to lay aside all personal +precaution and courted his society, of which, to say truth, he +seemed disposed to give us plenty. We had several interviews with +him,--indeed, hardly a day passed without his sending for and +honouring us with his presence for several hours. + +During these meetings we used every endeavour to sound the chief as to +his intentions with respect to us, without betraying an undue anxiety +on the subject, but could make very little out of him. + +Our conversation frequently turned on military matter, and many very +pertinent questions were put to us relative to our rank, pay, duties, +discipline, &c. On Sturt informing him that he was in the engineer +department, and that his particular duties were to construct bridges, +repair fortifications, superintend mining operations, and furnish +plans of attack, he was promptly asked, "In how long a time do you +think your army could take my fortress?" In about a quarter of an +hour, answered Sturt in his quiet way. "No, no," said the Meer with +some indignation, "I am sure you could not do so in so short a time;" +and then he paused, evidently making up his mind to tell us a story. +After a little, out it came. "That Feringhis should take my fortress, +the strongest in the world, in a quarter of an hour is impossible, +for it took me, with five hundred horsemen, double that time." Then, +apparently forgetting his anger in the anxiety to recount his own +exploits, he continued, "when I took possession of this fort I left +my army at a little distance, and selecting a few expert warriors, +I gallopped up to the gate of the fortress, which I found _open_. I +dashed in before the enemy were alarmed, and immediately proclaimed +that the place was taken by the victorious Merr Walli. The fools +believed me, and all ran away. By-and-bye my army came up and marched +quietly in." + +We had heard some time before that Dost Mahommed's eldest son, Meer +Ufzul Khan, was in Koollum, and it must be confessed that this +circumstance did not much contribute to our sense of security, for we +could not but feel that we might fairly expect he would not lose so +palpable an opportunity of doing us harm should he be so disposed. One +morning he sent us a polite message to request an interview, which of +course was readily granted. He came, looking pale and sorrowful, +and his tone and manner soon satisfied us that his intentions were +peaceable. After the usual compliments he entered on the subject of +his father's present position and political prospects; he remarked +that our _star was too bright_, and assured us that his father was +anxious to accede to any terms which the British might think fit to +impose short of banishing him to India, and strongly urged us to write +to our Government to that effect. We explained to Ufzul Khan that we +had received no instructions to act in a political capacity, and that +any interference on our part with the affairs of the nation might be +looked upon by our superiors as an unwarrantable piece of presumption. +He seemed much disappointed at the reply, and, at last, Sturt promised +to write and mention the conversation to the authorities, which he +did. I am not certain whether he wrote to Dr. Lord or Sir William +M'Naghten, nor can be positive that his letter ever reached its +destination--at all events, it was of no avail. Ufzul Kh[=a]n +endeavoured to persuade us to remain at Koollum till his father should +arrive, who, he said, had escaped from his prison at Bokhara by the +assistance of the chief of Shere Subz, as I have already noticed, +and was now making his way to the territories of the Meer Walli by +a circuitous route, so as to elude the vigilance of the king, and +frustrate his endeavours to recapture him. We were much pleased to +find that Ufzul Khan had no suspicion of our not being free agents, +and Sturt answered he regretted much that the shortness of the time we +had yet at our disposal would prevent his complying with his request, +which, indeed, considering all the circumstances of the case, it would +have been an act of most culpable folly to have acceded to. At the +conclusion of this interview Sturt presented him with a handsome +rifle, which he received with the utmost gratitude, saying that he was +now poor and had nothing to offer in return but his thanks, which, +however, he hoped we would believe to be sincere. + +No sooner had Meer Ufzul taken his leave than the Meer Walli made his +appearance with the evident intention of ascertaining the results +of our interview, and the part we were disposed to take in any +negociation concerning the Dost. The Meer was apparently anxious to +remain on good terms with both parties, or, in other words, preferred +having two strings to his bow. "Should the Dost claim my protection," +said he, "how would you advise me to act?--He is your enemy, yet I +must not abandon him, or deliver him into the hands of the British; +for, although I do not wish to offend the British Government, I owe my +present power to the influence of the Ameer,--he has always been my +patron, and I must be his friend. And then, moreover, you are the +first British officers I have seen since your army took possession of +Affghanist[=a]n; no notice has been taken of me, the Meer Walli of +Koollum; yet, to the petty chiefs of Bamee[=a]n vakeels and friendly +messages have been sent, with valuable presents--while, to my repeated +letters courting an amicable alliance, not even an answer has been +given.--Is it courteous to treat an inferior so?--Is it the conduct +generally adopted by the first nation in the world? The doubtful way +in which your Government has behaved leaves me uncertain as to how my +conduct will be interpreted,--but, if _you_ will represent that the +Meer Walli wishes to be on terms of amity, I shall consider you as +my best friends. Indeed, I would have it known I wish to remain +as neutral as possible in any political struggle that may take +place."--Here he paused, as if expecting some answer which would be +a guide to him, but, receiving none, he at length continued: "I +will receive the Dost and be kind to him until he recovers from the +fatigues of his journey, and then will beg him to leave Koollum."--It +was obvious enough that a consideration for himself was the only +motive which really influenced our worthy guest, who, it was clear, +would gladly have betrayed his former patron if he could have induced +us to guarantee an adequate reward to himself. Of course we did not +feel authorised to hold out any such prospect, and endeavoured to +convince him of the truth that we were not employed in any political +capacity, and could not possibly interfere without exposing ourselves +to severe animadversions from our superiors. I could not but feel the +truth of the Meer's remarks on our policy in conciliating the petty +chiefs, whilst the friendly overtures of the more powerful were +treated almost with insulting neglect. + +From the expression of the Meer's sentiments during this interview, we +concluded that, however great a rascal his highness might eventually +prove, still his present policy was to be on good terms with us, and +all anxiety on our part as to being forcibly detained was allayed, so +that we began now seriously to determine on our future proceedings. +As one of the principal objects I had in view on joining Sturt was +to procure coins and those relics of antiquity so abundant in the +neighbourhood of Balkh, I was most anxious to prosecute my journey +hither, and accordingly took an opportunity of explaining to the +Meer my wishes and intentions, requesting him to furnish me with an +adequate escort for my protection. He evinced a decided unwillingness +to facilitate my advance, treating my anxiety to collect coins as an +assumed reason to conceal some other more important motive. This was +very provoking, but, by this time, we were so much accustomed to have +the true and simple account of our plans and intentions treated with +civil incredulity, that we felt almost disposed to allow the +frequent insinuations of our concealed political character to remain +uncontradicted--so useless were all our endeavours to satisfy the +natives as to our real position. In vain I urged upon the Meer the +emptiness of all his professions of friendship if he now declined to +assist me in the manner I clearly pointed out; all was of no avail; on +the contrary, the more urgent I became the more obstinate he grew, and +I at last was painfully convinced, not only that he disbelieved me, +but that he had not the slightest intention of permitting us to +proceed across his frontier in the direction of the territories of the +King of Bokh[=a]r[=a]. He objected that it was a long journey from +C[=a]bul to Balkh merely to pick up "rubbish;" and though the actual +danger was only for a short space, yet, if any accident happened, if, +as he declared was highly probable, we were seized and carried into +slavery, he should have to answer to the British Government. His +horsemen too would be an insufficient protection against an attack +from the numerous hordes of thieves who infested the desert, and +would surely be on the alert to pounce upon so valuable a booty. +He continued repeating these arguments till we lost all hope of +persuading him, and not deeming it advisable to risk a rupture of our +present apparently good understanding, we reluctantly submitted and +turned our thoughts homewards.[*] + +[* Note: The anxiety I have here shewn to procure the escort from +the Meer will perhaps appear uncalled for, but those who delight in +numismatological specimens will agree with me that the disappointment +was not trifling, as only a few travellers had succeeded in obtaining +rare coins, and I had every reason to believe other varieties were to +be found.] + + +[Illustration: Coins.] + + + + +No sooner was it rumoured in the bazaar that we were about to return +to Cabul, than several Hindoo bankers waited upon us to pay their +respects and offer whatever sums of money we might require for +the journey. They were all very anxious to lend, and were much +dissatisfied at the insignificant amount of the cash we required, +though the only security was a written promise that we would pay the +amount to a certain banker in Cabul on our return; they offered us +as much as ten thousand rupees, and appeared very anxious to avail +themselves of the opportunity of sending money to Cabul. At all events +their confidence was a gratifying proof of the high estimation in +which the British name was held in that remote country. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + +After a most friendly parting interview with the Meer Walli, when he +presented us with a horse and baggage pony, we started from Koollum on +the 22nd of July, accompanied, by the Meer's special directions, by +one of his confidential servants to act ostensibly as our guide, but +who, probably, had also his secret instructions to report on all such +of our proceedings as might in any way affect the interests of his +master. + +We proposed to diverge from the route by which we had advanced, at +Heibuk, passing through Ghoree, in the territories of the Koondooz +chief, and returning to Badjgh[=a]r by the Dushti Suffaed pass, which +Sturt was very anxious to survey. + +Our first day's march brought us to Hazree Sultan, and the next +morning we reached Heibuk, where we were cordially welcomed by our old +friend Meer Baber Beg, and had again to undergo the infliction of that +detestable compound of grease, flour, salt, and tea, which the Meer in +his hospitality was always pressing us to swallow. + +On our departure the next morning, he sent us a present of a horse; +an indifferent one, 'tis true, but, at least, it marked his kindly +feeling; he warned us not to delay longer than was absolutely +necessary in the country of Meer Moorad Beg, whom he described in no +very flattering terms; and he, moreover, cautioned us against the +Koondooz fever, which he declared would inevitably attack us if we +were not very careful in selecting our encamping ground at a distance +from the pestilential marshes which skirted the bases of the hills. We +thanked him for his friendly advice, and started for Rhob[=a]t, where +we arrived after a dismal ride of twenty-two miles. The country +through which we travelled was perhaps the most dreary portion of +Toorkisth[=a]n; for about twelve miles we traversed a dry low grass +jungle of about a foot in height, tenanted by a species of wild goat, +several of which we disturbed on our passage through their haunts, but +not being prepared for any sport, I did not take advantage of their +unwariness. + +The road was utterly devoid of water for a space of full sixteen +miles, at the end of which we came upon a scanty supply, scarce +sufficient for our immediate necessities and utterly inadequate for a +force of any magnitude. The pista tree, the fruit of which is carried +to the Indian market, was seen here in considerable quantities; it is +very similar in its growth and foliage to the Dauk of Hindoostan. + +The _assa foetida_ shrub also abounded on the neighbouring hills, and +we were almost overpowered by the horrible stench exhaled therefrom. +It is collected in its wild state and sent to C[=a]bul and India, +yielding a good profit to those who pick it, as it is used very +generally throughout the East for kabobs and curries. We also +observed, that day, several coveys of chikore. + +At Rhobat is an old caravanserai for travellers, the remains of a very +fine and extensive building, with accommodation and apartments all +round the square of about twenty-four yards. It is said to have been +constructed in the time of the famous Abdoollah Khan, and was reduced +to its present desolate state by Meer Moorad Beg, the chief of +Koondooz, who some years ago ravaged the whole of this district, +burning and laying waste whatever he could not carry off. + +On the 25th of July we marched to Ghoree, a distance of about 21 +miles. As we approached it, we enjoyed a fine prospect of the +extensive savannahs of grass so characteristic of Toorkisth[=a]n; many +horses were feeding in the distance, and the vale, flanked by low +hills, was bounded only by the horizon. We were told that it extended +in a right line upwards of thirty miles, and that it was frequently +used for horse-racing, the customary length of the course being +upwards of twenty miles. We were now in the territories of Meer Moorad +Beg, a chief of notorious character, but, trusting to the continuance +of the good fortune which had hitherto attended us, we did not make +ourselves uncomfortable about him. We could not much admire his town +of Ghoree, which, with his fort, was situate on the edge of a morass +extending from the limits of the savannah to the foot of the hills--I +should think that the fever so prevalent in these districts must be in +a great degree attributable to the absolute want of drainage and the +decomposition of vegetable matter. Its position was most insalubrious, +for the marshy swamps commenced at the very base of hills, and thus as +it were encircled the savannahs with a belt of miasma. + +The ague, which is usually accompanied by fever, is of a kind very +difficult to shake off, gradually weakening the sufferer till he sinks +under its influence; the natives themselves are by no means free from +its strokes, to which attacks every stranger who remains for many days +in the vicinity of the marshes is liable. Though a veil of mystery +still covers the particulars of poor Moorcroft's fate, it seems more +than probable that he fell a victim to the fever of this country, +though the seed that was sown did not mature till some time after he +had quitted it. + +The fort of Ghoree has great strength, being on a level with the +adjacent country and surrounded by a wet ditch thirty feet wide and +very deep; its stagnant water teemed with fish of a large size, but +I had no opportunity of ascertaining their species. There was a rude +drawbridge across the moat, and the dwellings around the fort were +temporary hovels composed of straw; so suspicious were the occupants +of our intentions that they would not allow us access to the interior +of the fort. While reposing at the door of my tent on the evening of +our arrival at Ghoree, I was accosted by an old man, with the usual +request for a little medicine, as one of his family was afflicted with +rheumatism; I gave from our now much reduced medicine chest what I +thought at least could do no harm, and endeavoured, as was my custom, +to engage the old gentleman in conversation. I have before mentioned +the propensity of these people for _story-telling_, and I much fear +that when, with their native acuteness in discriminating character, +they detect an anxiety on the part of the questioner for old stories, +no difficulty exists in the concoction of one for him. In the case now +alluded to, I beg to assure my readers that I do not in the slightest +degree pledge myself for the veracity of the story which the old man +related to me. I should not like even to say that the customs to which +he alluded were really "_bonâ fide"_ the customs of his country; +however, I give it as it was related, nothing doubting that it will be +received with due caution, and, at all events, though it may not be +received as a legend really characteristic of Toorkisth[=a]n weddings, +it has indisputable claims to illustrate the habits of Toorkisth[=a]n +_story-tellers_. + +I was remarking to him on the beauty and extent of his savannahs, and, +in assenting to what I said, he observed that they were frequently +the theatre of wedding races; having soon engaged my attention, he +proceeded to narrate the following story, founded perhaps on the +numerous outrages of which the despised Huzareh tribe were the +victims. + +"Far up in one of the numerous valleys of the Yakkoollung country," he +commenced, "resided an ancient couple, whose occupation throughout the +summer day consisted in storing food for the winter season, and who, +when their work was finished, continued mournfully to dwell on the +all-absorbing subject of the forcible abduction of their daughter by +one of the Uzbeg chiefs. + +"Two years and more had now passed since the outrage was perpetrated +by a party of Uzbeg horsemen, who, ever bent on plunder and bloodshed, +made an incursion into the valley, visiting the different forts at +the time when the male inhabitants were employed in the labour of +cultivation, and seizing numerous youths and maidens. On the occasion +alluded to, among the number of victims was the only daughter of the +aged Huzareh peasants, who was considered amongst her tribe as a +perfect Peri--'A maid with a face like the moon, scented like musk, +a ravisher of hearts, delighting the soul, seducing the senses, and +beautiful as the full moon,' She was placed for security behind one of +the best mounted of the robbers, whilst the other helpless wretches +were driven unresistingly before the horsemen like a flock of sheep, +till the abductors reached their own independent territory. + +"Before the close of that ill-fated day, the mothers and relations +of the stolen were rushing in frantic despair through the fields, +announcing to the husbands and fathers the misfortune which had +overtaken them. + +"The men immediately quitted their work, and armed only with their +implements of labour pursued the ravishers for many a mile; but +what could they do on foot against so many horsemen? Perhaps it was +fortunate for them that they could not overtake the robbers, for they +would only have become additional victims. They returned home to +bewail their unhappy fate and curse the cruel authors of their misery. + +"It happened about a year afterwards that the old man's son returned +from Candah[=a]r, to enjoy, as he anticipated, a few weeks' happiness +with his aged parents and blooming sister; but no sooner had he +crossed the threshhold and received the blessing of his trembling +parents, than he was made aware of the desolation that had passed over +his house. Vowing vengance on the perpetrators of this foul act, and +calling down the anger of heaven on all the generation of Uzbegs, the +brave Azeem left his home, and abandoning all hopes of repose, busied +himself in collecting a band of athletic and desperate young men, who +swore on the Kor[=a]n their determination to have revenge or perish +in the attempt. Young Azeem was unanimously chosen commander of +the party, and the next morning at break of day, without further +preparation beyond taking a small supply of food, they started on +their journey. Travelling long days, and resting short nights in the +crevices of the mountains, after eighteen days' toil, they at length +reached a part of Tartary, distant only two days' march from the fort +belonging to the robber Uzbegs who had so cruelly injured them. It now +became necessary to advance with more circumspection, as they could no +longer depend upon the peasants for protection in the less friendly +country they had reached, so separating into several small parties +they approached stealthily the Uzbeg fort; some kept the hills on +either side, while the rest followed the winding of the grassy plains. +Thus proceeding, they formed a kind of circle round the fort, so that +they could notice the ingress or departure of its tenants on every +side. The fort appeared too strong for an open attack, and when, at +night, the leaders of the detached parties assembled to discuss their +future plans and to report what they had seen during the day, it was +determined to lie in ambush another day for the chance of the main +body of the Uzbegs quitting their fort on some foray, so that they +would have a better chance, should it become necessary to attack it. +Providence seemed to favour their designs, for early next morning +considerable parties of Uzbegs were seen issuing from the fort and +proceeding towards a large savannah, where some festival was evidently +in preparation--for, from the quantity of women and children who +accompanied the horsemen, it was clear that fighting was not the +business of the day. + +"Anxiously did Azeem and his followers watch the movements of their +unsuspecting enemy, and soon, from the nature of the preparations +going forward, they discovered that a wedding race was about to take +place. It was instantly determined to allow the ceremony to proceed, +and the capture of the bride was to be the signal for all the Huzarehs +to rush in and carry out their object. + +"And now the suitors of the maiden, nine in number, appear in the +field, all unarmed, but mounted on the best horses they can procure; +while the bride herself, on a beautiful Turkoman stallion, surrounded +by her relations, anxiously surveys the group of lovers. The +conditions of the bridal race were these:--The maiden has a certain +start given, which she avails herself of to gain a sufficient distance +from the crowd to enable her to manage her steed with freedom, so as +to assist in his pursuit the suitor whom she prefers. On a signal from +the father all the horsemen gallop after the fair one, and whichever +first succeeds in encircling her waist with his arm, no matter whether +disagreeable or to her choice, is entitled to claim her as his wife. +After the usual delays incident upon such interesting occasions, the +maiden quits the circle of her relations, and putting her steed into +a hand gallop, darts into the open plain. When satisfied with her +position, she turns round to the impatient youths, and stretches out +her arms towards them, as if to woo their approach. This is the moment +for giving the signal to commence the chace, and each of the impatient +youths, dashing his pointed heels into his courser's sides, darts like +the unhooded hawk in pursuit of the fugitive dove. The savannah was +extensive, full twelve miles long and three in width, and as the +horsemen sped across the plain the favoured lover became soon apparent +by the efforts of the maiden to avoid all others who might approach +her. + +"At length, after nearly two hours' racing, the number of pursuers is +reduced to four, who are all together, and gradually gaining on the +pursued; with them is the favourite, but alas! his horse suddenly +fails in his speed, and as she anxiously turns her head she perceives +with dismay the hapless position of her lover; each of the more +fortunate leaders, eager with anticipated triumph, bending his head on +his horse's mane, shouts at the top of his voice, "I come, my Peri; +I'm your lover." But she, making a sudden turn, and lashing her horse +almost to fury, darts across their path, and makes for that part of +the chummun, _plain_, where her lover was vainly endeavouring to goad +on his weary steed. + +"The three others instantly check their career, but in the hurry to +turn back two of the horses are dashed furiously against each other, +so that both steeds and riders roll over on the plain. The maiden +laughed, for she well knew she could elude the single horseman, and +flew to the point where her lover was. But her only pursuer was rarely +mounted and not so easily shaken off; making a last and desperate +effort he dashed alongside the maiden, and, stretching out his arm, +almost won the unwilling prize; but she, bending her head to her +horse's neck, eluded his grasp and wheeled off again. Ere the +discomfited horseman could again approach her her lover's arm was +around her waist, and amidst the shouts of the spectators they turned +towards the fort. + +"Alas! this was the agreed signal amongst the Huzarehs, who, screened +by the undulations of the savannah or hidden in the watercourses, had +been anxiously awaiting the event. With a simultaneous shout they +rush in upon the unprepared multitude, and commence an indiscriminate +massacre; but short was their success, for a distant party of Uzbegs +were observed rapidly gallopping to the scene of action, and the +Huzarehs were compelled to retire, their spirit for vengeance yet +unslaked. The panic their sudden onslaught had caused was so great +that they might all have retired unmolested had not Azeem suddenly +recognized his sister amongst a group of females who were being +hurried towards the fort. Regardless of the almost certain death that +awaited him he rushed to embrace her, but hardly had he clasped her in +his arms when the chief of the harem drove his Persian dagger through +his back. At sight of this all thoughts of further revenge were +abandoned, and the Huzarehs hastily quitting the field made the best +of their way home, not without having, though at the expense of the +life of their leader, inflicted a severe punishment on the invaders of +their peaceful country,"[*] + +[* Note: Clark, in his Travels in Russia and Tartary, describes the +ceremony of marriage among the Calmucks as performed on horseback. + +"The girl is first mounted and rides off at full speed. Her lover +pursues, and if he overtakes her she becomes his wife, and the +marriage is consummated on the spot; after which she returns with him +to his tent. But it sometimes happens that the woman does not wish to +marry the person by whom she is pursued, in which case she will not +suffer him to overtake her; and we were assured that no instance +occurs of a Calmuck girl being caught, unless she has a partiality for +her pursuer. If she dislikes him she rides, to use the language of +an English sportsman, 'neck or nothing,' until she has completely +escaped, or until the pursuer's horse is tired out, leaving her at +liberty to return, and to be afterwards chased by some more favourite +admirer."] + + + +Such was the old man's tale; whether the offspring of his fertile +imagination, or actually founded upon fact, so plausible did it +appear, and so much interested was I in his narration, that it became +forcibly imprinted on my memory, and I have minutely followed him in +its details. + +The morning after our arrival at Ghoree several of our followers were +taken ill, and as all were in great dread of the Koondooz fever, a +considerable alarm prevailed in our small camp. We did not at first +think much of the sickness, which we attributed to too free an +indulgence in the Koondooz melon, which is of a very large size, and +equal in flavour to those of Cabul. We therefore determined to remain +a day or two at Ghoree, in the hopes of a favourable change taking +place. But on the third day it was evident that the Koondooz fever had +really made its appearance, and several of the guard and servants, +to the number of twenty and upwards, were so much weakened as to be +unable to proceed. In this dilemma we deemed it advisable not to +remain any longer in the vicinity of the marshes, and resolved to +proceed with such of our men as were still healthy, to survey the +Dushti Suffaed Pass, already alluded to. We determined on leaving the +sick and the greater portion of our baggage behind, and despatched a +letter to Meer Moorad Beg, requesting permission for them to remain at +Ghoree till our return, which we hoped would not be delayed beyond a +few days. The ruler of Koondooz civilly acceded to our request, and +sent us many friendly messages, but hardly sufficient to dispel our +uneasiness at leaving even for so short a time such temptation for the +gratification of his predatory propensities; but we had the choice of +two evils--our time was so short that if we all remained together at +Ghoree, not only might the ravages of the fever become more serious, +but the opportunity would be lost of examining the pass. Before +leaving Ghoree we received a message from the governor of the fort, +apologizing for his inability to visit us, with the excuse that there +being much treachery and ill will in the neighbourhood, he dare not +quit his post, lest he fall under the dreaded displeasure of Meer +Moorad Beg. + +We now dismissed, with a dress of honour and letter of thanks, the +_confidential_ man whom the Meer Walli of Koollum had ordered to +accompany us, and leaving the greater part of our medicine chest for +the use of the sick, we started on the 28th of August. Before our +departure we received a further proof of the friendly disposition of +Moorad Beg, in the shape of a beautiful Toorkm[=a]n saddle, not larger +than an English racing one; the flaps were richly embroidered, and the +steel pommel was inlaid with inscription in gold of sentences from the +Kor[=a]n. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +We were now about to explore a part of Toorkisth[=a]n which I have +reason to believe had never been visited by Europeans; the distance +between Ghoree and Badjgh[=]ar is about eighty miles, across as wild +and romantic a country as can well be conceived, consisting of a +succession of difficult and in some places perilous defiles; the last +of these was the famous Dushti Suffaed, which leads to Badjgh[=a]r. +There is a sameness in the features of these Toorkisth[=a]n passes +which renders a faithful description tedious, from its monotony and +the necessary repetition of similar characteristic features; yet the +reader will hardly fail to draw important conclusions from the immense +difficulty and almost practical impossibility that a modern army +of considerable numbers, with all its incumbrances, through such a +country, with any hope of its retaining its efficiency or even a +tithe of its original numerical strength, will encounter. And when we +consider that the passes of Toorkisth[=a]n embrace only a small part +of the distance to be traversed by an army from the west, we may +well dismiss from our minds that ridiculous impression, once so +unfortunately prevalent in India, that is now justly denominated +_Russophobia_. What a fearful amount of human suffering might have +been averted! what national disgrace might have been avoided! and what +millions of treasure saved, had the authorities in India but examined +the practicability of an invasion which Russia had too much wisdom +ever seriously to contemplate! + +But to return to our wanderings. As I said before, we left Ghoree +early in the morning of the 28th, and soon reached the foot of the +hills, ascending a narrow valley which gradually contracted into a +rocky ravine. As we traversed the higher levels all vegetation ceased, +excepting the Pista tree already alluded to; yet there must have been +some herbage in the gullies, as we saw several flocks of wild goats, +so wild indeed that it was impossible to get within rifle range +of them. We had heard of a place called Shull[=a]ctoo, within the +distance of a day's march, and conceiving naturally that it was a +habitation of men, we determined to pass the night there. As the +evening advanced, the aspect of the country assumed a still wilder +and more desolate character, our cattle began to show symptoms of +distress, and as the hills were apparently destitute of water, we +became a little uneasy regarding the nature of our billet. A sudden +turn of the ravine brought us to a small open space, without a blade +of grass or a vestige of any thing human, which our guide complacently +informed us was Shull[=a]ctoo, a mere "locus standi." After the first +feeling of dismay had subsided, we recollected that we had a small +supply of food for our horses; and water being now found for the first +time since we entered the hills,--and we had come a good sixteen +miles,--we determined not to proceed further, so pitching our little +tent we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would admit. + +On the 29th we marched, a distance of fourteen miles, to a small fort +called Keune. But I unfortunately commenced the day's work by losing +my way amongst the rocks, with some of the guard: after wandering +for some hours, surrounded by scenery the grandeur of which I should +better have appreciated under different circumstances, one of the +Affgh[=a]n soldiers hit upon a pathway, and seeing a man in the +distance, he made for, and, seizing him in the most unceremonious +manner, brought him to me. The poor fellow was in the greatest state +of alarm; he had evidently never seen a Feringhi before, and fancied +that his last hour had arrived. I put a rupee into his hand, and +endeavoured to make him understand that we were neither robbers nor +murderers, but travellers who had lost their way; he was naturally +incredulous, for certainly our appearance gave but small indication of +our respectable character.[*] At length we were obliged to intimate +that his fears might be realized unless he showed us the way to Keune, +which we eventually reached in the evening, much exhausted with our +excursion. + +[* Note: I was armed with a huge old-fashioned sword of the 11th +dragoons, purchased in the Cabul bazaar, (marked D-XI Dr.) and clad in +a green Swiss frock. I had a coloured turban wound in copious folds +round my head as a protection from the sun, beard of nearly three +months' growth, and accompanied by a ferocious-looking tribe of +Affghans, all unshorn as well as myself, created anything but +a prepossessing impression to a stranger. The reader will not, +therefore, feel surprised at the man's hesitation in meeting us.] + +The chief of the fort at first declined furnishing us with any +supplies, though we offered liberal payment, declaring that he had +only sufficient for his own consumption; he, however, relented, and +sent us enough for our immediate wants. He afterwards came himself, +and informed us that we had acted very unwisely in mentioning at +Ghoree the route we proposed to follow, as one of the Sheikkallee +Huzareh chiefs, who was in a state of rebellion, had passed through +Keune the day before, and had stated that a party of Feringhis were +about to pass through his country with a quantity of odd looking boxes +filled with money, (alluding, I suppose, to the theodolite, &c.) +and that he would with his whole tribe waylay and rob us. This was +pleasant news, but we took the hint and determined to be on our guard. +In return for this piece of information, the inhabitants of Keune +expressed a desire to see the _Feringhis feed_; rather a novel +request, but one which we easily gratified by striking the walls of +the tent while we eat our dinner. The natives squatted down in a +circle outside the tent pins, and watched every morsel we put into our +mouths with the utmost interest and with many exclamations of surprise +and astonishment; and when before retiring for the night we as usual +had a skinful of water poured over us, their wonder knew no bounds; +they were evidently but slightly acquainted with the use of water as +applied for the purposes of cleanliness. + +We left Keune at daybreak on the 30th, hoping to be able to make our +way to Badjgh[=a]r, distant about forty-five miles, by surmounting the +Keune pass and proceeding down the Surruk Kulla valley. The ascent +was long and steep, the distance we had to travel before reaching the +summit being above thirteen miles; and though we had been on the move +nearly all day, such were the difficulties of the pass that night +overtook us shortly after we had reached its crest. + +Not a sign of habitations or trace of cultivation was visible; we had +no corn for our cattle, but fortunately the more sheltered spots in +the vicinity of water were clothed with luxuriant grass, which the +horses greedily eat. Our followers had, with the improvidence of +Asiatics, brought but a scanty supply of food, and indeed we were +all to blame for having trusted too much to the wild mountains +for supplies. There were plenty of chikore, however, and as I had +succeeded in shooting two or three in the morning we were not entirely +without food; and having pitched our tent, we retired to rest in the +hope that the next day we should come upon some fort where we might +recruit. + +As we were preparing to start early on the morning of the 31st, we met +a traveller pursuing his solitary way to Keune, who, after expressing +his wonder at encountering a party of Feringhis in such a place, +inquired our proposed route. We informed him that our intention was to +proceed over the Surruk Kulla pass and make our way to Badjghar, but +he cautioned us not to attempt any such thing; for though the road +was better than the more direct one, called the Espion Pass, it was +infested by a robber tribe from whose hands he had himself only +escaped, not having any thing to lose. + +This unwelcome intelligence induced Sturt to change his plan, and we +agreed that having done our utmost to fulfil the wishes of government +in ascertaining the nature of the passes in the vicinity of Badjghar, +it was our duty to consult the safety of ourselves and followers, and +get them as soon as possible within reach of protection. We had no +food of any kind left, but after all we did not anticipate much +serious evil from a forced fast of forty-eight hours; so, after +rewarding our wanderer for his very seasonable warning, we struck off +to cross the Espion Pass. The event proved how imminent had been our +danger, for after reaching Badjghar we were made aware that a large +body of horsemen had assembled in the Surruk Kullah valley for the +purpose of attacking us--that they had come up the road to meet us, +and had actually reached the point where we turned off about two hours +after us. + +We travelled the whole of the 31st August across a succession of +broken passes; so complicated were the valleys and so broken were +the range of hills, that we were unable to tell when we reached the +back-bone of the ridge, and we struggled on in doubt and difficulty +till we were again overtaken by the shades of night. + +Our cattle were quite exhausted; our followers grumbling, dispirited, +and frightened, the prospect of a second bivouac by no means improving +their discipline and insubordination. + +While I was endeavouring to pacify them by the only argument I had +at my disposal, founded on the principle of "_levius fit patientiâ +quidquid corrigere est nefas_," one of our servants brought us the +joyful news that from an eminence adjacent he had discovered an +abatta, or clump of blanket tents, surrounded by cultivated land, +about a mile off. Where tents were, food would probably be obtainable; +and as we were not in a condition to be very particular as to the +character of the inhabitants, we immediately despatched an embassy +with money to purchase whatever edible substances they could procure. +Our anxieties were now relieved by the return of our mission, driving +before them a couple of very thin sheep, and carrying a small supply +of corn for the cattle. With this reasonable supply we made a +tolerable meal, and succeeded in putting the discontented into a +better frame of mind. + +We determined to make a push next morning for Badjghar, and started +before day-break for the Dushti Suffäed Pass, the crest of which we +reached after travelling a distance of about nine miles over very bad +ground. We were now "_en pays de connoissance_," but our cattle were +so much weakened by the work and privations of the last three or four +days, that we could not attempt the long and difficult descent into +the valley beneath. I therefore rode on alone and reached Badjghar in +a few hours. I immediately visited Capt. Hay, and having procured a +supply of food, returned with it the same night to the party, much +exhausted with my trip, but satisfied now that there could be no +further cause for grumbling on the part of our followers. + +The state of our baggage-equipage next morning was so bad, that Sturt +thought it advisable to give them another day's rest, and he went +on himself to Badjghar; but in the course of the day I received an +express from him, stating that circumstances had occurred which made +it absolutely necessary for me to bring in the whole party without +delay. I knew Sturt too well to doubt the urgency he represented, and +in spite of lame legs, sore backs, &c. I managed to bring all hands +safe into Badjghar late on the evening of the 2d of August. Our men +were taken every care of, (which indeed they required, as fever and +ague had weakened them much,) and in a few days all traces of their +sufferings had disappeared; but poor Sturt, who had been complaining +for some days before of great debility and headache, was seized on the +morning of the 3d with a violent attack of Koondooz fever, which soon +prostrated his strength and caused me some uneasiness. He weathered +the storm, however, and by the 11th was sufficiently recovered to +enable him to resume his duties. + +I have before mentioned, I think, that we had left some of our +followers and a considerable portion of our baggage at Ghoree, +intending to return to that fort after visiting the passes which I +have alluded to; but on our reaching Badjghar we found that the clouds +which had been gathering for some time past in the political horizon +had assumed so threatening an appearance that it would be madness to +attempt to prosecute our examination of the nature of the country, +when its wild and lawless population were in such an excited state. +The intentions of the Koondooz ruler were not known, and we felt very +anxious for the safety of the sick whom we had been necessitated +to leave at Ghoree, as in addition to his natural sympathy for a +fellow-creature's sufferings, Sturt feared that if any misfortune +befel them, he might, though unjustly, be accused of having deserted +them. His uneasiness was increased by receipt of a letter from Ghoree +from one of our people, in which it was stated that the baggage we had +left behind had been opened and some things abstracted, and that they +themselves were in imminent danger of being seized and sold as slaves. + +After making every allowance for the exaggerations of fear, there +was still sufficient in this communication to aggravate poor Sturt's +difficulties; he was in doubt whether to assume a high tone, or to +endeavour by flattery to save his followers, and his last act before +the violence of the fever obliged him to succumb was a firm but +respectful letter which he wrote to Meer Moor[=a]d Beg, in which he +stated that reports inconsistent with that chief's known good faith +had reached him; that he had heard that his property had been seized +and his people threatened; that he was sure they were lies invented by +Moor[=a]d Beg's enemies to create a bad feeling towards him; and that +he requested the men and property might be immediately forwarded safe +to Cabul. Those who are familiar with the vanity and punctiliousness +on points of etiquette of the chieftains of the Hindoo Khoosh will +easily conceive how much depended upon the wording of this letter. + +In the written intercourse between equals it is customary to put the +impression of the signet at the top of the sheet, but from an inferior +such an act would be considered as highly presumptuous. Sturt, though +advised to assume the humble tone, was resolute in putting his seal at +the beginning of the letter, and the event proved that his judgment +was as usual correct, for though (it was stated) the chief of Koondooz +was but a few months after in arms against the British, yet our people +and property were safely forwarded to us at Cabul. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +It was only after my arrival at Badjghar with the men that I became +acquainted with Sturt's reasons for requesting me to come in without +delay, Capt Hay was in daily expectation of the arrival of a convoy +from Bamee[=a]n with a supply of provisions, clothing, and ammunition +for the use of his regiment, and having received information from one +of the numerous spies, who gain a livelihood by supplying information +to _both_ parties, that large bodies of men were assembling in +the Kammurd valley, through which the convoy would have to pass, +determined, though he did not attach much credit to his informant, to +despatch as strong a body as he could spare to reinforce the escort. +He accordingly sent out two companies of the Goorkha regiment with +directions to proceed to the "Dundun Shikkun Kotul," there to meet the +convoy and protect them in their passage through the Kammurd valley. +Such was the scarcity of European officers, that Capt. Hay was obliged +to intrust the command of the force to the quarter-master-serjeant of +his corps; who, though unused to the management of so considerable a +party in the field, and who might have been excused if in the hour of +need his brain had not been as fertile of expedients as is generally +necessary in encounters of this kind, acquitted himself in a manner +that would have done credit to the best light infantry officer in the +service. I much regret that I cannot record his name, but before being +appointed to the Goorkha corps he was a non-commissioned officer in +the Bengal European regiment. He was one of the many victims, I fear, +of the year 1841, as I have been unable to trace his career. Hundreds +of brave European non-commissioned officers met a similar fate, and +are merely noticed as having perished in the retreat from Cabul. The +many acts of coldblooded treachery which disgraced the Affghans, and +which ought to have opened the eyes of those in power to the absurdity +in trusting to their faith, were merged in the wholesale murders of +Khoord Cabul, Jugdulluk, and Gundummuk. + +I have before described the narrowness of the valley up to Kammurd and +the lofty ranges of precipitous hills by which it is flanked; and the +reader will perhaps recollect my noticing two forts on either side of +the river a little above Piedb[=a]gh. It was here that the Serjeant +halted his party after the first day's march, intending to proceed +the next morning to the Dundun Shikkun pass to meet the convoy. At +day-light he was informed that the expected convoy had not crossed the +pass, and while forming his men to proceed and ascertain whether the +report was correct or otherwise, he was suddenly attacked by large +bodies of horse and foot: the serjeant immediately took advantage of +the ground to protect his party from the heavy fire which was poured +in from all sides, and having observed that the enemy, whoever they +were, were in too great a force to leave him a chance of successfully +maintaining his position, which was commanded from several points, he +determined on retreating to Badjghar, a distance of about nine miles. +The valley was full of orchards divided by low walls, and perhaps to +a well-disciplined company of steady old soldiers with plenty of +officers, a retreat, even in the face of several hundred Uzbegs, might +have been effected without loss, by forming the whole body into two +lines of skirmishers, and retiring alternately; but the serjeant knew +too well the temper of his gallant little mountaineers, who are more +famous for bravery than judgment, to trust the safety of his party to +the success of a manoeuvre, the chief point in which was to know when +to retreat. His first line of skirmishers would never have retired in +order, taking advantage of every natural obstacle of the ground for +concealment, but would have boldly confronted the cavalry and probably +been destroyed to a man. He therefore moved his Goorkhas in quarter +distance column steadily along the road, which luckily hugged the +precipitous hills on one side, so that the enemy could only avail +themselves of the valley on the other side of the road to attack him, +the mountains being so impracticable that while they attempted to +climb them to turn his flank he had already gained so much ground as +to be out of reach of even a "plunging" fire. In ordinary quick time +did this little band retire under a heavy though straggling fire from +a force many times more numerous than themselves. The serjeant was +enabled with difficulty to carry out his plan, which was, not to +return the enemy's fire, but to proceed steadily on till he could +suddenly take advantage of some protecting ledge of rock or orchard +wall behind which he could form his men and confuse the enemy by +pouring in a few volleys. He would then form quarter distance columns +of subdivisions again, and proceed in his retreat as before. He had no +misgivings as to the courage and firmness of his men, for the Goorkhas +have ever been noted for their dashing bravery, and an incident soon +proved how wisely he had judged in not extending his men. While +retiring, a chance shot killed a man who happened to be a great +favourite; his nearest comrades immediately halted and faced about, +and notwithstanding the commands and entreaties of the serjeant; they +determined to avenge his death. Grouping themselves round the body of +their dead companion, they awaited the enemy, and when sure that every +shot would tell, each man delivered his fire, and then drawing his +knife with a yell of defiance, rushed upon hundreds of their foes; +to have supported them would have been to lead the whole party to +inevitable slaughter, and the authority of the quarter-master-serjeant +was scarce sufficient to restrain his men from breaking from their +cover to join the unequal fight: as it was, the gallant little band +were soon outnumbered, and after a reckless and desperate resistance +were literally hacked to pieces. The enemy encouraged by this success +now pressed hard upon the Goorkhas, and had they been fortunate enough +in getting round to the front not a man would have escaped; as it was, +the men were falling very fast, when a happy occurrence changed +the aspect of affairs. It seems that a chief, conspicuous from his +glittering armour and steel head-piece, mounted on a powerful horse +with an armed footman behind him, attracted the notice of the Goorkhas +by the cool manner in which he rode up to within a distance of about +eighty yards, delivered his fire, then galloped away out of gunshot +to allow the gentleman "en croupe" to reload. A few of the men having +observed this manoeuvre repeated three or four times, concealed +themselves behind a rock, while the main body retired. On came the +chief to within his prescribed distance; a volley from behind the rock +scarce ten paces off rolled horse and man over and over. The effect on +the enemy was such that they kept at a more respectful distance, +and after a few random shots discontinued the pursuit. Such was the +account the serjeant himself gave me of the fight, and I have no +reason to suspect him of exaggeration. He accomplished his arduous +retreat with a loss of nineteen men killed, but more than half this +number voluntarily sacrificed themselves to avenge the death of their +comrade. It is difficult, when relating the numerous acts of heroism +of the Goorkha troops, to refrain from drawing invidious comparisons +between their conduct and that of the Hindoo soldier during the +retreat from Cabul; but though it must be allowed that the despondency +and mental enervation which sometimes spreads like an epidemic +among Sepoy troops, must importantly deteriorate from their general +character as soldiers, still it must be recollected that the physical +constitution of the Hindoo incapacitates him from action under some +circumstances. Severe cold benumbs his faculties of mind as well as +body, and the nature of his ordinary food is such that unless the +supply is regular and sufficient his strength fails him; and again, +his belief in predestination is strong, and often a trivial reverse +will induce him to abandon himself to his fate. But in these days the +Hindoo soldier need not fear that his noble and gallant qualities will +not be understood or appreciated. Every good soldier will honor the +Hindoo for his patient endurance, his courage, and fidelity. + +To turn to the convoy: the attempt was made to get the camels laden +with ammunition, stores, and provisions over the Dundun Shikkun Pass; +but the difficulties were found to be so great that the escort and +convoy returned to Sygh[=a]n, and crossing the Nulli Fursh Kotul, +reached their destination. + +This was the first glaring instance of the state of the country, and +some people may well be astonished it was viewed by the political +authorities in so insignificant a light. But I will not too much +impose upon the patience of the reader by detailing the execrable +reasons which were put forth for the most absurd measures during the +twelve months preceding the annihilation of our army. + +It was now evident to those who were not obstinately blind that a +general rising was contemplated; and a few days after our arrival at +Badjghar we heard that Dost Mahommed had arrived at Koollum, and that +after all his diplomacy our old friend the Meer Walli had received him +with open arms, and was now on his way to attack our out-posts. The +authorities were shortly afterwards aroused from their apathy, the +advanced troops were very properly withdrawn, the gallant Col. Dennie +was sent in command of a small but efficient force to the head of the +Bamee[=a]n valley, where, as has been before detailed, he repulsed the +combined forces of Dost Mahommed Khan, the Meer Walli of Koollum, and +all the Uzbeg chiefs. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + +On the 12th of August we departed from Badjghar on our return to +C[=a]bul, and I reached Bamee[=a]n by a forced march in two days, +preceding Sturt, who was still very weak and obliged to travel more +leisurely. I was very nearly suffering from my anxiety to get on, for +one of the laden Yabboos, being urged beyond what he considered his +lawful rate of progress, lashed out most furiously with both hind +legs; luckily, the flap of my saddle received the full force of one +of his heels, and the soft part of my leg the other, which lamed me +severely for a time. + +On the 22nd, Sturt having arrived, we made up our party to visit +the ruins of the Castle of Zohawk, distant about ten miles from +Bamee[=a]n. I was rewarded for my trouble, both from the picturesque +nature of the ruins themselves, and because I was fortunate enough +again to fall in with one of those professional story-tellers from +whom I have already largely quoted. I have indeed listened to many +more stories than I have ventured here to insert; some I have rejected +from the nature of their details, others from there being a strong +impression on my mind that they were the extempore invention of the +story-teller with a view to the rupee, which he feared he would not +secure if he confessed he had nothing to relate. I have not perhaps +been judicious in my selection of those which I hoped would amuse the +reader, but I have done my best to choose for insertion those which +differed the most from each other; and I may be allowed to add as an +excuse for my apparent credulity regarding the tales themselves, that +they are implicitly believed by the inhabitants, so that, making +allowance for the corruption of tradition, the facts on which they are +founded in all probability did really occur. + +The ruins of the Castle of Zohawk are situated on a hill commanding +the high road from Toorkisthan over the Ir[=a]k and Kalloo passes, and +in the angle formed by the union of the Bamee[=a]n and Ir[=a]k rivers. +It is impossible to fix the date of the first structure; it seems from +the ruin to have been added to at many successive epochs. The size of +the towers appeared very insignificant compared with the extent of +ground which the building at one time evidently covered, but perhaps +the towers, though small, were numerous. The only one now standing was +situated high up the hill, from which a covered passage partly cut +through the solid rock leads down to the water side. We had some +trouble in gaining the highest point of the ruins, as we were obliged +to scramble up the steep face of the precipice, still covered with the +remains of walls and bastions, which had been built up wherever the +ground was sufficiently level for a foundation. Many dreary-looking +cells attracted our notice amongst the ruins, and all the information +I could get was, that they were the abode of evil spirits. My +informant would, I do believe, have amused me for hours with legends +of the said spirits, and indeed every river and lake, every mountain +and valley in this district bears its peculiar legend, always +improbable, generally absurd, and though from that very cause +diverting for the moment, I fear that the naïve taste amongst our +"savans" which delighted in the history of Jack the Giant-killer being +fast on the wane, they would not be gratified by a lengthy recital; +but I must still take the liberty of repeating as well as I could +follow the vile jargon of my narrator, a tale which he told me of the +Castle of Zohawk while standing on its ruins. He had evidently been +accustomed to tell the same story to others, or else I imagine that, +in consideration of our both being on the spot, he would have spared a +description of what I saw before my eyes. I give it to the reader as +nearly as I can in the narrator's words. + +"At the extreme end of a precipitous hill jutting out from the main +range of mountains at the junction of the Bamee[=a]n and Ir[=a]k +rivers, are the remains of an old castle called Zohawk, after a noted +freebooter, who, secure in the strength of his fortress, was the +terror of the surrounding villages, and lived by rapine, pillage, and +plunder of every kind. To a careless observer the diminutive tower, +which alone remains standing, would not convey an adequate idea of the +original extent of the castle; but on a close examination the whole +face of the mountain will be found to be covered with ruined walls +and roofless chambers, now the fit abodes of devils of all sorts and +denominations. Many hundreds of years ago, before the invasion of +Nadir Shah, Zohawk Khan occupied the castle; he did not build it, but +as it acquired an infamous notoriety during his life-time, and has not +been inhabited since, it still bears the name of the ferocious robber, +who with a band as vicious as himself lived there for many years. +Zohawk Khan was originally an Huzareh peasant; he was seized while +a child and carried off in slavery to Toorkisth[=a]n, where +his naturally cruel and savage disposition was exasperated by +ill-treatment and fostered by the scenes of wickedness with which he +was made familiar. Being very cunning, he soon acquired influence +amongst his fellow slaves, and organized a conspiracy, in the +fulfilment of which his own master and many other Toorkomaun chiefs +were put to death under every refinement of torture. Zohawk at the +head of the rebel slaves then traversed the country, robbing the +harmless peasants, till he reached the vicinity of the castle, +which still bears his name. It was then inhabited by an old Huzareh +chieftain, who had formerly been a kind master to Zohawk's parents. +Regardless of the memory of past kindness, the ruffian determined to +possess himself of this place, and under the pretence of craving the +hospitality of the rightful owner, introduced himself and fellow +villains into the fortification. In the dead of the night, according +to a preconcerted plan, the robbers rose from their place of rest, and +stealing to the sleeping apartment of the chieftain, murdered him; the +affrighted garrison craved for life, but one after another were placed +in irons to be disposed of as slaves. The freebooter, now master of +the fortress, assumed the title of Kh[=a]n, and commenced that career +of ruthless cruelty and depravity which more than any thing else +causes his name to be remembered and his memory cursed by the present +inhabitants of the neighbourhood. The government of the self-styled +Kh[=a]n was a reign of terror, and many were the nameless atrocities +committed within the walls of the castle. He had, however, one +confidant, whom he believed faithful, but who from interested motives +submitted to the savage passions of his master, and being the chief +eunuch of the harem, had great influence in that department. It was +the custom of Zohawk Kh[=a]n to choose the autumn of the year for the +season of his predatory excursions, and it happened that, while +absent with the flower of his force on one of these death-dealing +expeditions, a conspiracy was set on foot, the principal agitator +being the eunuch of the seraglio. "It was determined that on the +evening when the chieftain was expected to return, a general feast +should be given to those remaining at home, with the double view of +rendering the men who had not joined in the conspiracy incapable from +the effects of debauchery in siding with Zohawk, and of exasperating +the ferocious chieftain, who was known to be averse to any revelry +during his absence. The favourite wife summoned all the harem to a +feast, whilst a copious allowance of intoxicating liquor was served +out to the minor portion of the garrison. The wine soon produced +the required effect, and in the midst of the revelry and uproar the +Kh[=a]n appeared at his castle gate, and without enquiring the cause +of the tumult, instantly proceeded to the harem, and lifting the +Purdah stood in the presence of his wives. 'What is this?' said he, +glancing savagely round.--'We expected your return and have prepared a +feast to welcome you,' was the ironical reply of the favourite wife, +who at the same time trembling in her limbs scarce dared to face the +enraged tyrant, 'It is a lie, offspring of a Kaffir; you shall pay the +penalty of your disobedience of my orders. Here, Saleh, take her and +throw her over the battlements into the river;' but ere the reluctant +eunuch could enforce the cruel mandate, the woman raised her hand, +and with a small dagger pierced herself to the heart. Unmoved by her +tragic fate, Zohawk instantly commanded that four of the other women +should be dealt with in the same way, and seeing the eunuch hesitate, +drew his Persian blade and rushed at him; but ere the sword fell, the +knife of Saleh was sheathed in the ruffian's breast. "The news of his +death spread rapidly through the castle; then followed the strife +of war. The Kh[=a]n's party, though in number nearly double that of +Saleh, were wearied with their recent foray, and after a desperate +conflict of three hours they were driven into one of the wings of +the castle, and butchered to a man. Blood flowed in almost every +apartment; broken swords, daggers, and matchlocks lay in all +directions, shewing how terrible the strife had been. And now, when +Zohawk's party had been exterminated, a murmuring arose amongst the +victors as to who should be the chief, and Saleh, perceiving that he +should gain nothing for the exertions he had made, demanded permission +to leave the castle, taking with him as his sole share of booty his +sister, who was an inmate of the harem. His terms were immediately +complied with, and the wary eunuch lost no time in quitting the scene +of blood. + +"Those remaining agreed to defer the election of a chief till they had +refreshed themselves after their labours: in the heat of intoxication +blood again flowed, and after passing the whole night in drinking and +fighting, morning appeared to eighteen survivors of the fray. Each +still claimed for himself the chieftainship, and while still wrangling +on the subject, one of the wounded partizans of Saleh, unperceived +by the drunkards, secreted a large bag of powder in the room, and +igniting it by a train with his slow match crawled out of the castle. + +"The explosion was terrific; down toppled tower and bastion, +enveloping in their ruins the remainder of the garrison, and the +castle was in a few moments reduced to the shapeless mass which it now +presents. + +"The wounded author of the catastrophe alone escaped; but the +knowledge of his crimes prevented him from returning to his country, +and he wandered for many years about the blackened walls, the terror +of the neighbourhood, who considered him an evil spirit. He subsisted +on herbs growing on the adjacent mountains, till at last he +disappeared no one knew where. Since that period, the fortress has +never been the resting place of the traveller or the haunt of the +freebooter." + +Such was the terrible tale of blood and wounds which my informant +communicated to me, and certainly, if it rests its foundation on any +one of the horrors with which it is filled, the castle of Zohawk does +well deserve its bad repute. + +On the 23rd we left Bamee[=a]n and proceeded over the Ir[=a]k pass to +Oorgundee, where we arrived on the 28th. No event occurred nor any +thing worth mentioning, unless it be the "naïveté" of an old man, who, +observing me light my cigar with a lucifer-match, asked in a grave +and solemn tone, whether that was indeed fire. I took his finger, and +placed it in the flame, much to his astonishment, but convincing him +of its reality. He then enquired if it was the fire from heaven, which +he heard the Feringhis were possessed of. I endeavoured, but I fear +without success, to explain to the old gentleman the nature of +fulminating substances, and though he listened with patience, he was +evidently still in the dark, when I presented him with the contents +of my match-box and shewed him how to ignite them; his gratitude was +manifest, as he walked off highly pleased with his toy, which I hope +may not have burned his fingers. + +Sturt left me on the 29th, being anxious to get back to Cabul; but +as I had three days to spare, and my taste for wandering was still +unabated, I joined Capt. Westmacott, of the 37th Native Infantry, in +a flying excursion into the valley of Charrik[=a]r, which the +Affgh[=a]ns consider as the garden of Cabul. The first day we rode +from Oorgundee to Shukkur Durra, or "the sugar valley," so called, +not from growing that useful article of grocery, but from its fertile +orchards and extensive vineyards. After a few miles' ride we crossed +a low range of hills, and came upon the flourishing district of +Be-tout,--literally, "without mulberries." The sagacious reader will +justly infer that mulberry trees were in profusion every where else; +indeed so plentiful are they in general that many of the natives +live almost exclusively in winter upon the fruit, which is dried and +reduced to a powder, and after being mixed with a little milk, or even +water, forms a palatable and nutritious food. The view from the +crest of the low range of hills was really enchanting, and strongly +contrasted with the wild and craggy mountains amongst which we had of +late been struggling. An extensive plain, bounded by high mountains, +and again crowned by the snowy peaks of those more distant, lay +before us, its whole surface dotted with a multitude of white forts +surrounded by a belt of the most vivid green, the barrenness of the +uncultivated spots acting as a foil to the rich vegetation which +springs under the foot of the Affgh[=a]n husbandman wherever he can +introduce the fertilizing stream. We rode leisurely on through this +wilderness of gardens, till on approaching the village of Be-tout the +loud wail of women hired to pour forth their lamentations for some +misfortune assailed our ears, and on enquiring we learnt that one +of the inhabitants had been murdered the preceding night under the +following circumstances. + +It appears that ten years ago the murdered man (who was a Persian) had +a very pretty daughter, and that a neighbouring chief hearing of her +beauty caused her to be forcibly seized and conveyed to his own fort. +The father, regardless of any consideration but revenge, arming +himself with his long Affgh[=a]n knife, gained admission into the +chief's house and immediately cut him down and made his escape. For +ten years he concealed himself from the vengeance of the relatives +of the chief, but a few days before he had returned to his native +village, hoping that time would have softened the vindictiveness of +his enemy; but he shewed his ignorance of the Affgh[=a]n character, +with whom revenge is a sacred virtue. He had not been long returned, +when a nephew of the chief he had slain shot him through the heart +from behind a wall. As we passed through the village we saw the +inhabitants crowding round the still unburied corpse of the injured +father, and our thoughts were painfully diverted from a contemplation +of the richness and plenty which Providence had vouchsafed to this +fertile spot, to a mournful consideration of the wild passions of man, +who pollutes the earth with the blood of his fellow-creature. + +As we proceeded onwards we came upon those luxuriant vineyards which +produce the famous Kohist[=a]n grape, of enormous size as to berry +and bunch, but excelling in delicacy of flavour, in juiciness, and +thinness of skin even the far-famed Muscadel. + +The vines are trained either upon a trellice work or along the ground, +the latter mode being used for the most delicate grape; but it +requires more care and attention, it being necessary while the fruit +is ripening so to trim the plant and thin its foliage, that the branch +may have sufficient sun, and be kept as near as possible to the +earth without touching it. This mode of training is adopted in the +cultivation of the enormous black grape, called from its size and +colour "the cow's-eye." Towards evening we reached the vicinity of +Shukkur Durrah, lying at the extremity of the plain and backed by +mountains of considerable height. Here we encamped for the night under +the shelter of a magnificent walnut tree, in a small garden adjoining +the fort. + +After we had pitched our tents, many Hindoos who trade in fruit, the +staple produce of the country, came to pay their respects, and one of +them informed me that about four miles across the mountains to the +north-west in the Sheikkallee Huzareh country, there were three lakes +so extensive that it occupied a well-mounted horseman a whole day to +ride round them. No European, he said, had ever visited them; one +gentleman, whose name he did not know, had tried to reach them, but +drank so much brandy by the way that he was obliged to lie down +instead, and the guide had great difficulty in getting him back. I +regretted that the expiration of my leave prevented me from exploring +these lakes, which I do not think have ever been examined by any of +our engineers; but I hope that, had I undertaken the excursion, I +should not have fallen into the same scrape the above mentioned +gentleman did. The gardens belonging to the chief were well worth +looking at, with a beautiful stream of water flowing through the +centre, tortured by artificial rocks into fifty diminutive cataracts. + +We were well satisfied with our quarters, but after night-fall +intimation was given us that unless we kept a sharp look-out it was +very probable we might have some unwelcome intruders before morning, +as a neighbouring fort was hostile to that of Shukkur Durrah; and +moreover, that the inhabitants of the fort itself were in the utmost +dread of a band of desperadoes who infested the adjacent hills and +occasionally paid them a nocturnal visit. Luckily for us they were in +hourly expectation of such an intrusion, for their fears kept them +on the alert, and they had a watchman on each of the towers, whose +sonorous voices proclaimed every hour of the night. Our guard was +now reduced to six, the remainder being employed to escort Sturt's +instruments into Cabul, so that I really did not much like the +appearance of things; when about midnight my servant reported to me +that the sentry saw a great many lights moving about us. + +I instantly rose and distinctly observed the lighted slow matches of +firearms; there might have been forty or fifty. The sentry challenged, +but the ruffians returned no answer, and decamped, finding us on the +alert, and probably not knowing our weakness; for had we come to blows +our party must have got the worst of it, though I have not the least +doubt that our Affgh[=a]n guard would have stood by us even against +their own countrymen. + +The next morning we proceeded along a very pretty road, flanked by +green hedgerows full of wild flowers, and varied occasionally near the +houses with parterres of roses of exquisite fragrance. My route lay to +B[=a]ber's tomb, but Capt. Westmacott being anxious to reach C[=a]bul +could not accompany me, so we parted, mutually regretting that we had +so short a time to spend in this delicious region. At B[=a]ber's tomb +the Kazi of the adjacent village endeavoured to play off on me a +trick, well known to old campaigners, by assuring me that unless I +took from his hands a guard of at least twelve men (of course paying +them for their services), my life would not be safe during the night. +I refused his guard, and the only annoyance I experienced was from +myriads of musquitoes, who tormented me incessantly throughout the +night. I rode into camp the following day, and was delighted to find +myself once more with my brother officers. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +On the 24th September I started on another excursion, though under +very different circumstances; our party on this occasion consisting of +Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry, two companies of the 37th Native +Infantry, two squadrons of the Bengal 2nd Cavalry, a small body of +Affgh[=a]n horsemen under Prince Timour Shah, three nine-pounders, two +24-inch howitzers, and two 8 1/2-inch mortars, the whole under the +command of Sir Robert Sale, the object of the expedition being to +quell some refractory chiefs inhabiting the northern and some hilly +parts of the Kohist[=a]n. + +It would be beyond the sphere of this little book to enter into a +detailed account of our operations in the field, nor do I pretend +to have sufficient materials by me for such a delicate task, in the +execution of which I might by erroneous statements expose myself to +just animadversion. + +I had not, I regret to say, the means of ascertaining with precision +the different causes which had driven these hill chiefs into +rebellion. The footing which Dost Mahomed had lately acquired in the +north-west encouraged them to persist, and it will be seen in the +sequel, that at the disgraceful scene of Purwun Durrah the Dost was +almost a _prisoner_ in the hands of those who were considered, by the +unversed in the intricacies of Affgh[=a]n policy, to be only in arms +for the restoration of their favourite to the throne of C[=a]bul. + +Were it in my power to give an accurate description of the different +positions assumed by the enemy, and provided I had the leisure to +survey the ground, then I am well aware that I might have claimed +additional interest for my pages, as I should have elucidated the mode +of warfare peculiar to the Affgh[=a]ns; but such an attempt would +perhaps carry me out of my depth. I must therefore be content with +remarking, that though in action the Affgh[=a]ns acknowledge some +guiding chieftain, yet the details of position are left to each tribe. +They have no confidence in each other; it follows, therefore, that the +wisest plan is to turn either or both flanks, as this manoeuvre is +almost sure to require a change in the original disposition of their +force, which they, for want of good communications between their +detached parties, are unable to effect. Hence confusion arises, and +the uncertainty of support generally causes the whole to retreat. The +Affgh[=a]ns have great dread of their flanks being turned, and will +sometimes abandon an almost impregnable position in consequence of a +demonstration being made to that effect, which after all could never +have been carried out. + +On the third day after our departure from C[=a]bul, the force encamped +at a place called Vaugh opposite the beautiful Ist[=a]lif, whose +luxuriant vineyards and magnificent orchards have before excited the +admiration of the traveller. But we had still some marches to get over +before reaching the territories of the refractory chiefs, and it +was not till the 29th that we came to Toottum Durrah, or valley of +mulberries. Here we found the enemy posted in force, but it was merely +an affair of detachments, two companies of the 13th and two of the +37th being ordered to make a detour to the right and left, so as to +threaten the enemy's flanks. The main column closing up continued to +advance; the enemy did not make a very determined resistance, yet a +chance shot killed poor Edward Conolly, brother to the victim of the +ruffian king of Bokhara. His--poor fellow!--was a soldier's death; +though we deplore his loss, we know that he died in honorable warfare; +but we have no such consolation for the fate of his poor brother, and +it is with difficulty that his indignant countrymen can refrain from +imprecating the vengeance of God upon the cowardly destroyer of so +much talent and virtue. + +The enemy made no further stand this day, and we proceeded about +fifteen miles down the valley to Julghur, destroying before our +departure the mud forts of Toottum Durrah. At Julghur the enemy shewed +more resistance; they trusted in the strength of their fort, and we +perhaps too much to its weakness. The result was, that a wing of the +13th, not more than one hundred and twenty strong, suffered a loss +of fourteen men killed and seventeen wounded, and the enemy were +eventually shelled out by the batteries under the direction of Capt. +Abbott. + +The following morning we buried our gallant companions, amongst them +our respected serjeant-major (Airey), in one deep grave; but a report +was current, that shortly after our departure, the bodies had been +disinterred and exposed in front of the grave, that every Affgh[=a]n +might witness and exult in the disgrace to which they had subjected +the corpses of the Feringhis. + +This is but a single instance of the hatred which actuated our enemy, +and when we consider the exasperating effects of these cowardly +outrages on the minds of the soldiery, we should the more admire the +generosity and clemency of the British in the hour of victory. I +am aware that ill-informed people have accused our armies in +Affghanist[=a]n, especially after the advance of General Pollock's +force, of many acts of cruelty to the natives, but I can emphatically +deny the justice of the accusation. Some few instances of revenge for +past injuries did occur, but I am sure that an impartial soldier would +rather admire the forbearance of men who for days had been marching +over the mangled remains of the C[=a]bul army. + +But to return to the Kohist[=a]n. On the 4th of October we took a +transverse direction westward, crossing the plain of Buggr[=a]m, +supposed to be the site of the "Alexandria ad Calcem Caucasi" of the +ancients; numerous coins, gems, and relics of antiquity are found +hereabouts, particularly subsequently to the melting of the snows. +Formerly they were considered useless, but when our enterprising +countrymen and the army of the Indus found their way to C[=a]bul, +these memorials of the Greek had ready purchasers amongst the +numismatologists of the British force. At the same time the +C[=a]bulese considered it great folly our exchanging the current coin +for what were in their estimation useless pieces of old silver and +copper. + +Throughout the marches and countermarches which it was necessary for +us to make in the northern districts of the Kohist[=a]n, in order to +prevent the enemy from gathering together, we were much interested by +the varied beauty of the scenery; and it must candidly be admitted +that our ignorance as to the nature or amount of force we might any +day find opposed to us by no means diminished our excitement. Rather +an extraordinary phenomenon occurs in a small range of hills detached +from the parent mountains, a little to the northward of the fort of +Julghur. From top to bottom of the precipitous side of one of these +spurs extends a light golden streak, rather thicker and less highly +coloured at the bottom than at the top. I was unable to approach it +nearer than about four miles, but I was credibly informed that the +streak was in reality what its appearance first suggested to my mind, +a body of fine sand continually flowing over the side of the hill, and +depositing its volumes in a heap at the base of the mountain. I might +perhaps in a windy day have ascertained the correctness of the report, +as then the sandy cascade would appear as a cloud of dust, but the +weather was calm during the whole time we were in its vicinity. It +is called by the natives the Regrow[=a]n or flowing sand. Being no +geologist, I refrain from offering any suggestions as to its cause, +but merely state what I saw and heard. + +After marching about the country for some days like the Paladins of +old in search of adventure, we turned our faces once more towards +C[=a]bul and encamped near Kara-bagh. While here, a scene occurred +which will doubtless be still in the recollection of many officers +with the force, and which I relate as illustrative of the barbarous +customs of the people. Many of the stories which I have introduced +must of course be received by the impartial or incredulous reader "cum +grano salis." I have given them as they were repeated to me, but I can +personally vouch for the following fact. + +Our bugles had just sounded the first call to dinner, when a few +officers who were strolling in front of the camp observed a woman with +a black veil walking hurriedly from some dark-looking object, and +proceed in the direction of that part of the camp occupied by the +Affghan force under Prince Timour Shah, the Shah Zada, heir apparent +to the throne of C[=a]bul. On approaching the object, it was +discovered to be a man lying on the ground with his hands tied behind +him, his throat half severed, with three stabs in his breast, and two +gashes across the stomach. The mangled wretch was still breathing, +and a medical man being at hand, measures were instantly taken most +calculated to save his life, but without success, and in a quarter of +an hour he was a corpse. Familiar as we were with scenes which in our +own happy land would have excited the horror and disgust of every man +possessed of the common feelings of humanity, there was something in +this strange murder which caused us to make enquiries, and the reader +will hardly believe me when I tell him that the victim met his fate +with the knowledge and consent of Timour Shah. The woman whom we first +observed was the legal murderess. She had that morning been to the +Shah Zada and sworn on the Kor[=a]n that the deceased many years back +had murdered her husband and ran away with his other wife; she had +demanded redress according to the Mahommedan law--blood for blood. The +Shah Zada offered the woman a considerable sum of money if she would +waive her claim to right of personally inflicting the punishment on +the delinquent, and allow the man to be delivered over to his officers +of justice, promising a punishment commensurate with the crime he had +committed. But the woman persisted in her demand for the law of the +Kor[=a]n. Her victim was bound and delivered into her hands; she had +him conducted in front of the prince's camp about three hundred yards +off, and effected her inhuman revenge with an Affgh[=a]n knife, a fit +instrument for such a purpose. + +Before returning to C[=a]bul it was deemed requisite to punish the +rebellious owner of the fort of Babboo-koosh-Ghur. On the approach of +our force he decamped with all his vassals, and as it was advisable to +leave some permanent mark of our displeasure, the bastions were blown +down with gunpowder. It seems that the enemy imagined we were very +negligent in camp, for they honored us the same evening with one of +their night attacks, for which they are famous, the object in general +being rather to harass their adversary by keeping him on the alert +than to penetrate to his tents. + +On the present occasion they commenced a distant fusillade upon the +left of our line, extending it gradually along nearly the whole face; +a few rounds of grape from the artillery soon cleared _their_ front, +but the enemy continued for above three hours a random fire upon the +left, and, strange to say, they kept aloof from the European troops, +who were encamped as usual on the right of the line. The artillery +horses being picketted in soft ground soon drew their iron pegs, and +having thus obtained their liberty, scampered up and down in rear of +the troops and amongst the tents, thereby considerably adding to the +confusion and uproar. On the alarm first sounding every light was +extinguished in the camp, and well was it that these precautionary +measures were adopted, for a great portion of the standing tents were +riddled. The enemy fired without aim, and we were fortunate enough to +lose only one sepoy; we could not ascertain the amount of casualty +amongst them, but from the sudden cessation of any attack upon that +part of the line where the artillery was stationed, we concluded that +the rounds of grape must have told with considerable effect. + +After midnight the enemy withdrew, and when at a distance of about +half a mile from our outposts gave a shout of defiance, perhaps to +draw a party from the camp to pursue them, which, however, was not +done, or rejoicing at the havoc they imagined to have made in our +ranks. We heard afterwards that the Affgh[=a]ns with their usual +superstition had remembered that many years ago a large army had been +attacked on the same ground we then occupied and annihilated, and +that probably a like success would crown their efforts in the present +instance. + +This night attack rendered some further demonstration of our powers of +retaliation necessary, particularly as a portion of our adversaries +were from the fort of Kardurrah, to which we proceeded the next day +and easily captured, the enemy retiring to the hills on our advance, +abandoning a strong and easily defended position, for their flank +could not have been turned without incurring considerable loss, if +the fort of Kardurrah had been held in a determined manner. It was +generally remarked as being a particularly strong place, the approach +leading through orchards surrounded by mud walls six or seven feet +high and loopholed, the lanes intersecting them being barricadoed as +if to be held to the last extremity. + +Probably such was their valiant intention, but it seems they were +bewildered by our attacking them from different points, and not +trusting to each other for support, all took to their heels. The +undulating ground was strewn with masses of detached rocks, and they +had also built up several small but substantial stone breast-works, +so that altogether we had reason to congratulate ourselves on their +unexpected retreat. + +The women had been previously conveyed away with the heavy baggage, +and we found the houses empty, but fruit of every description was +lying about the streets, prepared and packed for the winter supply of +the C[=a]bul market. Melons, peaches, pears, walnuts were either in +heaps against the walls or placed in baskets for transportation; but +the most curious arrangement was exhibited in the mode in which they +preserved their brobdignag grapes for winter consumption. About thirty +berries, each of enormous size and separately enveloped in cotton, +were hermetically enclosed between a couple of rudely shaped clay +saucers, so that we were obliged to crack the saucers to get at +the fruit inside, and great was the scrambling amongst the thirsty +soldiers for their luscious contents as they rolled out upon the +ground. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +The thread of my narrative now guides me to an event which cannot +be contemplated without astonishment and regret. I allude to the +unaccountable panic which seized the 2nd Cavalry during the action at +Purwan Durrah; indeed I would willingly pass it over in silence, but I +am anxious to express my humble admiration of the chivalrous bearing +of the European officers on that melancholy occasion. + +The several severe blows which we had recently inflicted upon the +Affgh[=a]ns during the course of this short compaign, and their not +having lately appeared in any organized force in the vicinity of our +camp, caused an opinion to prevail amongst many that our labours for +the season were brought to a close; but on the 20th of October we were +again excited by the rumour that Dost Mahommed, who had been hovering +about, intended as a "dernière ressource" once more to try his fortune +in war. Our anticipations of a little more active service were soon +realized by an order to advance upon Purwan Durrah. We accordingly +struck our tents, passing by Aukserai, and encamped near Meer +Musjedi's fortress, remaining there till the 3rd of November watching +the movements of the enemy. On that day information was received that +the Dost, with a large body of horse and foot, was moving towards us +by the Purwan Durrah; the general decided upon checking his progress, +and an advanced guard consisting of four companies of the 13th under +Major Kershaw, two companies of Native Infantry, two nine-pounders, +and two squadrons of the 2nd Bengal Cavalry, the whole under the +command of Col. Salter of the 2nd Cavalry, preceded the main column. +On the road we met a follower of one of the friendly chiefs charged +with a report that the ex-Ameer's party had been attacking some of the +forts in the valley, but for the present had taken up a position on +the neighbouring hills. We soon came on them, and at a short distance +perceived a small body of cavalry in the plain. A rumour passed +through our ranks that Dost Mahommed was himself amongst the horsemen, +and it was a subject of congratulation that the only opportunity had +now arrived of our cavalry engaging theirs, and that one brilliant +attack would bring this desultory warfare to a glorious termination. + +The squadrons under the command of the gallant Fraser were ordered to +advance, and moved steadily forward at a trot; all eyes were fixed +upon them--the men were apparently steady--and even the least sanguine +could hardly doubt the result of a shock of disciplined cavalry on an +irregular body of horse not half their numerical strength. + +But when the word to charge was given, an uncontrolled panic seized +the troopers; instead of putting their horses into a gallop and +dashing forward to certain victory, the pace gradually slackened; in +vain did their officers use every effort to urge the men on--in vain +did the spirit-stirring trumpet sound the charge--the troopers were +spell-bound by the demon of fear; the trot became a walk, then a halt; +and then, forgetful of their duty, their honor, and their officers, +they wheeled about and shamefully fled. + +But not for one single instant did Fraser hesitate; with a bitter and +well-merited expression of contempt at this unmanly desertion, he +briefly said, "We must charge alone," and dashing spurs into his +horse, he rushed to an almost certain fate, followed by Ponsonby, +Crispin, Broadfoot, Dr. Lord, and by about a dozen of his men, who all +preferred an honourable death to an ignominious life. + +The feelings of disgust mingled with intense admiration with which +this unparalleled scene was viewed by the infantry can be better +imagined than expressed; and those who under similar trying +circumstances would have endeavoured to imitate the heroism of their +countrymen, could scarce subdue a thrill of horror as this handful of +brave soldiers galloped forward. The intrepid Fraser, mounted upon a +large and powerful English horse, literally hewed a lane for himself +through the astonished Affghans; and Ponsonby too--for I am weary of +seeking fresh epithets for their unsurpassable conduct--on a strong +Persian mare, for a time bore down all opposition. Dost Mahommed +himself, though in some personal danger from the impetuosity of this +desperate charge, could not restrain his admiration. + +The event fully proved the danger incurred. Dr. Lord, Crispin, and +Broadfoot upheld the glory of their country to the last, and fell +covered with many wounds. Fraser and Ponsonby were both desperately +hacked, and owed their lives to their horses becoming unmanageable, +bearing their riders from the midst of the enemy. The reins of +Ponsonby's bridle were cut, and he himself grievously wounded in the +face, while Fraser's arm was nearly severed in two; neither did +their horses escape in the conflict, as both bore deep gashes of the +Affgh[=a]n blades. + +While the European officers were thus sacrificing themselves in the +execution of their duty, the dastard troopers came galloping in +amongst the infantry of the advanced guard, some of whom were with +difficulty restrained from inflicting on the spot the punishment they +so well deserved. + +Meanwhile the enemy's cavalry, flushed with success, advanced against +the infantry with colours flying and loud shoutings, as in expectation +of an easy victory. But the infantry were prepared to receive them, +and a few rounds from the nine-pounders soon caused them to halt; +finding that their antagonists were not under the same influence as +the cavalry, they gave up the attack and retired to a distant position +on the hills. The steady advance of the 37th N.I. from the main body +of our forces, together with a few judiciously thrown shells, soon +drove their infantry to a more elevated range of hills; and before +sunset we had quiet possession of the field. + +We had the melancholy satisfaction of finding the bodies of our +comrades, whom we buried at night in one large grave, and performing +the solemn service of the dead by torchlight. There is no chance of +their being forgotten: so long as gallantry is admired and honour +revered amongst British soldiers, so long will they remember Fraser's +charge at Purwan Durrah. + +I am loath to dwell on the misconduct of the troopers; as far as I am +enabled to ascertain it was unexpected by the officers. Some, indeed, +declare that previous disaffection existed amongst the men; others say +that the troopers being Mussulmen did not like to charge against Dost +Mahommed himself, whom they considered as their religious chief; but +I think we may fairly attribute their flight to downright +_cowardice_, as no complaint or cause was assigned by the men +previous to encountering the foe. Whatever be the truth, the event was +most unfortunate, for it appears that the Dost was even previous +to the action anxious to throw himself upon the protection of +the British, but his followers would not permit him to do so; +nevertheless, on the evening of that day he managed to elude their +vigilance, and riding directly to C[=a]bul met the envoy Sir William +M'Naghten taking his evening ride, and surrendered himself into his +hands. + +The news of this event of course put an end to further hostilities, +and on the 7th of November we returned to C[=a]bul, heartily glad once +more to get comfortably housed, as the winter was rapidly approaching +and the nights severely cold. + + + + + +THE END. + + + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, shewing the Entrance Hole to the +larger Cavern + +Map of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route to Koollum + +View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik + +View of Koollum from the Eastward + +Fac-Simile Drawings of Ancient Coins found in Toorkisthan and +Affghanistan, in the possession of Capt. Burslem, as follows: + +No. 1. A Bactrian coin: legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from +the Greek lettering, Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a +tuckt or throne, with his right arm extended. + +No. 2. A square copper coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated +from the Greek lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, +holding in one hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse +bears Pelhvic characters. + +No. 3. A square copper coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus megal] is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the +Great, of which I have no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he +reigned in Bactria 181 B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, with +the figures of two warriors mounted. + +No. 4. A square silver coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the +inscription, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. +The reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl. + +No. 5. A square copper coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is +a woman holding a flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to +be a Kanirkos coin. + +No. 6. A round silver Indo-Scythian coin. + +No. 7. A square silver coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an +elephant, with the Bactrian monogram beneath--[Transliterated from +the Greek, Basileus pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The +characters and figures on this coin are very distinct. + +No. 8. Another coin of Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis +elevated: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. On the reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable +coin. + +No, 9. A gold coin, supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The +legend begins with Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a +naked figure, with the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but +in copper, have been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. +Lady Sale considers this coin to be a great beauty and of value. + +No. 10. A gem found in the plain of Buggram. +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 *** diff --git a/11902-h/11902-h.htm b/11902-h/11902-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3963bc9 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/11902-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5200 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>A Peep into Toorkisthhan | Project Gutenberg</title> + +<style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin: 10%; + text-align: justify; +} + h1 { +color:#006633; +font-size: 30pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h2 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 25pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h3 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 20pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h4 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 18pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h5 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 15pt; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h6 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +hr { +color: #663300; +} + +p,td { +font-size: 14pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: justify; +line-height: 120%; +} + +dl,blockquote { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.forenote { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: normal; +text-align: justify; +line-height: 120%; +} + +p.smallprint1 { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 300; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.smallprint2 { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +span.smallprint1 { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +span.smallprint2 { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.center { +text-align: center; +} + +td.center { +font-size: 14pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: center; +} + +td.left +{ +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +} + +td.smallprint { +font-size: 11pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +} + +i { +font-weight: 600; +} + +i.smallprint { +font-weight: 200; +} + + +/*links*/ + +a:link { +color: #006633; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:visited { +color: #006633; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:hover { +color: #ffffcc; +background: #ff0000; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:active { +color: #ff0000; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: underline; +} + +a.small:link { +color: #006633; +font-size: 12pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:visited { +color: #006633; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:hover { +color: #ffffcc; +background: #ff0000; +font-size: 12pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:active { +color: #ff0000; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: underline; +} + +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 ***</div> + +<p class="forenote">[Transcriber's Note: There are around 240 +instances of vowels accented with macrons ( straight line above) +mostly Ā or ā, with one instance of ē, and five +instanses of ū, and one u that should be ū and isn't. The +macron is indicative of a lengthened vowel Thus the a-macron +(Ā or ā) is usually pronounced as a long a. Use of +the macron is <i>not</i> consistent throughout the text...<br /> +<br /> + ...and the spelling of some place names is not consistent either: +e.g. Toorkisth[=an]; Toorkisthan; Toorkistan.<br /> +<br /> + (There are also a number of words with 'unusual' spellings.<br /> +<br /> + These spellings I have corrected:<br /> +<br /> + territories for territorities; retrograde for retrogade; amongst +for amonst.<br /> +<br /> + These 'period' spellings I have left intact:<br /> +<br /> + befel, chace, surprized, loth, gallopped, gallopping, secresy, +shew, shewed, shewing, preeminence, handfull, negociation, +threshhold, trellice, picketted, barricadoed, compaign. +I have also retained M'Naghten for the modern McNaghten.)]<br /><br /> +Front-of-Book Illustrations: If the Frontispiece is slow to load, it is repeated at the end of CHAPTER X. +The Map, however has been removed to the end of the book. + + +</p> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4><a name="Frontispiece">F</a>rontispiece</h4> +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Outer Cave, Yeermallix"> +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td><img src="images/yeermallix3.jpg" width="649" height="498" alt="Outer Cave, Yeermallix" border="0" /></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="85%">View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, +shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + <br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>A PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN.</h1> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h3>BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM,</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h5>THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY.</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h2>1846.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<hr /> + +<h5>TO THE</h5> + +<br /> + + +<h3>RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARNARVON,</h3> + +<h4>HIGHCLERE CASTLE.</h4> + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> + + +<p class="smallprint2">MY LORD,<br /> +<br /> + Having received your Lordship's permission to dedicate to you this +my first essay as an Author, I beg to tender my best +acknowledgements for the honour, and for the interest you have so +kindly expressed in the success of the following pages. Under such +favourable auspices a successful result may be confidently +anticipated by</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<p class="center">Your Lordship's<br /> +Obliged and obedient servant,<br /> +<br /> + ROLLO +BURSLEM.</p> + +<p class="smallprint1">HAREWOOD LODGE,<br /> +HAMPSHIRE.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h4>TO THE READER.</h4> + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> + + +<p class="smallprint2">The following pages are literally what they +profess to be, a record of a few weeks snatched from a soldier's +life in Affghanistān, and spent in travels through a region +which few Europeans have ever visited before. The notes from which +it is compiled were written on the desert mountains of Central +Asia, with very little opportunity, as will be easily supposed, for +study or polish. Under these circumstances, it can hardly be +necessary to deprecate the criticism of the reader. Composition is +not one of the acquirements usually expected of a soldier. What is +looked for in his narrative is not elegance, but plainness. He sees +more than other people, but he studies less, and the strangeness of +his story must make up for the want of ornament. I can hardly +expect but that the reader may consider the style of my chapters +inferior to many of those which are supplied to the public by those +who are fortunate enough to enjoy good libraries and plenty of +leisure; two advantages which a soldier on service seldom +experiences. But this I cannot help. Such as they are, I offer him +my unadorned notes; and perhaps he will be good enough to let one +thing compensate another, and to recollect that if the style of the +book is different from what he sometimes sees, yet the scenery is +so too. If instead of a poetical composition he gets a +straightforward story, yet instead of the Rhine or the Lakes he +gets a mountain chain between Independent Tartary and China.<br /> +<br /> + WALMAR BARRACKS,<br /> + <i>March</i>, +1846.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>CONTENTS</h4> + +<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" align="center" +border="0" summary="Contents - Chapter Headings and Linkes to each Chapter"> +<tr> +<td width="25%"> </td> +<td width="30%" valign="top"><a href="#I">CHAPTER I</a><br /> +<a href="#II">CHAPTER II</a><br /> +<a href="#III">CHAPTER III</a><br /> +<a href="#IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br /> +<a href="#V">CHAPTER V</a><br /> +<a href="#VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br /> +<a href="#VII">CHAPTER VII</a><br /> +<a href="#VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a><br /> +<a href="#IX">CHAPTER IX</a><br /> +<a href="#X">CHAPTER X</a><br /> +<br /> + </td> +<td width="45%"><a href="#XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br /> +<a href="#XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a><br /> +<a href="#XV">CHAPTER XV</a><br /> +<a href="#XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a><br /> +<a href="#XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a><br /> +<a href="#XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a><br /> +<a href="#XX">CHAPTER XX</a><br /> +<br /> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" align="center" +border="0" summary="Link to List of Illustrations"> +<tr> +<td class="center"><a href="#PLATES">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</a><br /> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>A<br /> +<br /> +PEEP INTO TOORKISTHĀN.[*]</h4> + +<span class="smallprint2">[* Note: A portion of the following pages +in their original form has appeared in the Asiatic Journal.]</span> + + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="I">I.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>During the summer of 1840, the aspect of the political horizon +in Affghanistān afforded but slight grounds for +prognosticating the awful catastrophe which two short years after +befel the British arms. Dost Mahommed had not yet given himself up, +but was a fugitive, and detained by the King of Bokhara, while many +of the principal Sirdars had already tendered their allegiance to +Shah Sooja: and there was in truth some foundation for the boast +that an Englishman might travel in safety from one end of +Affghanistān to the other. An efficient force of tried +soldiers occupied Ghuzni, Cabul, Candahar, Jellalabad, and the +other strongholds of the country; our outposts were pushed to the +north-west some fifty miles beyond Bameeān, the Khyber and +Bolun passes were open, and to the superficial observer all was +tranquil. The elements of strife indeed existed, but at the time +when I took the ramble which these pages attempt to describe, +British power was paramount, and the rumour was already rife of the +speedy diminution of the force which supported it.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the modern rage for exploration, but few of our +countrymen have hitherto pierced the stupendous barrier of the +Paropamisan range; but the works of Hanway, Forster, Moorcroft, and +Trebeck, Masson, and Sir Alexander Burnes, convey most valuable +information concerning the wild regions through which they +travelled, and I am bound in simple honesty to confess that my +little book does not aspire to rank with publications of such +standard merit. An author's apology, however humble and sincere, is +seldom attended to and more rarely accepted. Surely I am not wrong +in assuming that a feeling of mournful interest will pervade the +bosom of those who have the patience to follow my perhaps +over-minute description of places whose names may be already +familiar to them as connected with the career of those bold spirits +who in life devoted their energies to the good of their country and +the advancement of science, and who in the hour of disaster, when +every hope was dead, met their fate with the unflinching gallantry +of soldiers and the patient resignation of Christians.</p> + +<p>My lamented friend, Lieutenant Sturt, of the Bengal Engineers, +was one of the foremost of those who endeavoured, during the +critical situation of the Cabul force previous to its annihilation, +to rally the drooping spirits of the soldiers; and without wishing +in any way to reflect on others, it may fairly be said that his +scientific attainments and personal exertions contributed not a +little to those partial successes, which to the sanguine seemed for +a moment to restore the favourable aspect of our military position. +But I forbear from now dwelling upon these circumstances, lest I +might undesignedly give pain to those who still survive the fatal +event, merely stating my humble opinion that the memory of any +mistake committed, either in a political or military light, will by +the noble-minded be drowned in sorrow for the sufferings and death +of so many thousands of brave men.</p> + +<p>In the month of June, 1840, Lieutenant Sturt was ordered to +survey the passes of the Hindoo Koosh, and I obtained leave from my +regiment, then in camp at Cabul, for the purpose of accompanying +him; my object was simply to seek pleasant adventures; the +"<i>cacoethes ambulandi</i>" was strong upon me, and I thirsted to +visit the capital of ancient Bactria; the circumstances which +prevented our reaching Balkh will hereafter be detailed, but the +main object of the expedition was attained, as Sturt executed an +excellent map of the passes alluded to, and satisfactorily +demonstrated that almost all the defiles of this vast chain, or +rather group of mountains, may be turned, and that it would require +a large and active well-disciplined force to defend the principal +ones. I have made every possible inquiry as to the fate of the +results of Sturt's labours, but fear that they too were lost in the +dreadful retreat. Whatever still exists must be in the +Quarter-Master General's Department in India, far out of my reach, +so that I am obliged again to request the indulgence of my reader +for the want of a proper map on which he might, if he felt so +inclined, trace our daily progress,[*] and to crave his forgiveness +if I occasionally repeat what has been far more ably related by +Moorcroft and the other authors whom I have already mentioned.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Since receiving the proof sheets +for correction I have been kindly supplied by my friend Major Wade +with a map taken principally from the one executed by the late +Lieutenant Sturt.]</p> + +<p>To the traveller whose experience of mountain scenery is +confined to Switzerland, the bold rocks and rich though narrow +valleys of the frontiers of Toorkisthān offer all the charms +of novelty; the lower ranges of hills are gloomy and shrubless, +contrasting strikingly with the dazzling, yet distant splendour of +the snowy mountains. It is an extraordinary fact, that throughout +the whole extent of country occupied by these under features, which +presents every variety of form and geological structure, there are +scarcely any hills bearing trees or even shrubs; every valley, +however, is intersected by its native stream, which in winter +pursues its headlong course with all the impetuosity of a mountain +torrent, but in the summer season glides calmly along as in our +native meadows.</p> + +<p>The multitude and variety of well-preserved fossils which are +imbedded in the different strata of the Toorkisthān hills +would amply reward the researches of the Geologist, and to the +Numismatologist this portion of Asia proves eminently interesting, +Balkh and other localities in its vicinity abounding in ancient +coins, gems, and other relics of former days; and I much regret +that I was unable to reach the field from whence I expected to +gather so rich a harvest.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="II">II.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>In accordance with the golden rule of restricting our baggage to +the least possible weight and compass, we allowed ourselves but one +pony a piece for our necessaries, in addition to what were required +for our small tent and cooking utensils, Sturt's surveying +instruments being all carried by Affghān porters whom he hired +at Cabul for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of June we commenced our ramble, intending to +proceed to Balkh by the road through Bameeān, as we should +then have to traverse the principal passes of the Hindoo Khosh, and +our route would be that most likely to be selected by an army +either advancing from Bokhārā on Cabul or moving in the +opposite direction. The plundering propensities of the peasantry +rendered an escort absolutely necessary, and ours consisted of +thirty Affghans belonging to one of Shah Soojah's regiments, under +the command of Captain Hopkins. As Government took this opportunity +of sending a lac[*] of rupees for the use of the native troop of +Horse-Artillery stationed at Bameeān, our military force was +much increased by the treasure-guard of eighty Sipahis and some +remount horses; so that altogether we considered our appearance +quite imposing enough to secure us from any insult from the +predatory tribes through whose haunts we proposed travelling. Our +first day's march was merely to make a fair start, for we encamped +two miles north-west of the city in a grove of mulberry-trees, and +the wind, as usual in summer, blowing strong in the day-time, laid +the produce at our feet; so that by merely stretching out our +hands, we picked up the fruit in abundance; for although the sun +was powerful, we preferred the open air under the deep foliage to +the closeness of a tent. During the early part of the night an +alarm was raised throughout our small camp, and as we knew the +vicinity of Cabul to be infested with the most persevering thieves, +we naturally enough attributed the disturbance to their unwelcome +visit, but it turned out to be only one of the remount horses, +which having broken away from his picket was scampering furiously +round our tents, knocking over the chairs, tables, and boxes which +had been placed in readiness for packing outside the tent door. The +neighing of the other horses, and their struggles to get loose and +have a fight with their more fortunate companion, added to the +braying of donkeys, barking of dogs, and groaning of the camels, +gave me the notion of a menagerie in a state of insurrection. The +affair looked serious when the animal began to caper amongst +Sturt's instruments, but luckily we secured him before any damage +was done, though for some time theodolites, sextants, artificial +horizons, telescopes, and compasses were in imminent danger. The +worst of an occurrence of this kind is, that your servants once +disturbed never think of returning to rest when quiet is restored, +but sit up for the remainder of the night, chatting over the event +with such warmth and animation, as effectually to keep their master +awake as well as each other. We started next morning at four, and +marched about six miles and a half, the distances being always +measured with a perambulator, the superintending of which gave +Sturt considerable trouble, as it was necessary to have an eye +perpetually on the men who guided it, lest they should have +recourse to the usual practice of <i>carrying</i> the machine, +whenever the nature of the ground made that mode of transportation +more convenient than <i>wheeling</i>. This, together with taking +bearings, and the other details of surveying, gave my companion +plenty of occupation, not only during the march, but for the rest +of the day when halted.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[*Note: lăc, lăkh (-k), n. +(Anglo-Ind.). A hundred thousand (usu.<i> of rupees).</i>]</p> + +<p>We were now encamped close to a village called Kulla Kazee, a +place of no very good repute as regarding honesty; indeed, we were +well aware of the predatory propensities of our neighbours; but we +seemed destined to experience more annoyance from the great +apprehension of being attacked which existed amongst our followers, +than from any well-founded anticipation of it; their fears were not +totally groundless, as it must be confessed that to a needy and +disorganized population the bait of a lac of rupees was very +tempting.</p> + +<p>We had chosen a picturesque little garden for our resting place, +the treasure and remount horses with the Sipahi guard being +encamped about half a mile off to our rear. At about eleven at +night the European sergeant in charge of the horses burst into our +tent in some consternation, stating that a large band of robbers +were descending from the adjacent hills to attack the treasure. +Sturt immediately jumped up, and mounting his horse gallopped off +to the supposed scene of action. All was quiet <i>without</i> the +camp; <i>within</i> there was a terrible bustle, which Sturt at +last succeeded in allaying by sending out patrols in various +direction, who reported that nothing could be either heard or seen +of the dreaded robbers. Being rather averse to these nocturnal +diversions, especially as they promised to be of frequent +occurrence, I made careful inquiries to ascertain if there were any +real foundation for the alarm, but all I could learn was, that the +neighbourhood had always been noted for robbers, who hasten towards +the point upon the report of any party worth plundering passing +near any of their forts. Possibly some robbers had gained +intelligence of our treasure, and had actually appeared on the +hills, but on discovering the strength of our party had +retired.</p> + +<p>The next day our route lay through delicious fields of ripening +clover, in such profusion that the air was impregnated with its +agreeable perfume, to a small fort called Oorghundee, remarkable +chiefly for being the head-quarters of the oft-mentioned thieves, +of whom I daresay the reader is as tired as we were after the mere +dread they inspired had caused us to pass two sleepless nights. But +we were now determined to assume a high tone, and summoning the +chief of the fort, or, in other words, the biggest villain, into +our presence, we declared that in the event of our losing a single +article of our property or being annoyed by a night attack, we +would retaliate in the morning by cutting the surrounding crops and +setting fire to the fort!</p> + +<p>The military reader, especially if conversant with some of the +peculiarities of eastern discipline, will question how far we +should have been justified in carrying our threats into execution. +I can assure him we had no such intention; but be that as it may, +our threats had the desired effect, and at length we enjoyed an +uninterrupted night's rest.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 16th we proceeded to Koteah Shroof, the +whole distance being about ten miles: but the first three brought +us to the extremity of the beautiful valley through which we had +been travelling ever since we left Cabul. The aspect of the country +in the immediate vicinity of our path has been well described by +one of the most lamented victims to Affghan ingratitude and +treachery. "If the reader can imagine," writes Sir Alexander +Burnes, "a plain about twenty miles in circumference, laid out with +gardens and fields in pleasing irregularity, intersected by three +rivulets which wind through it by a serpentine course, and dotted +with innumerable little forts and villages, he will have before him +one of the meadows of Cabul." To complete the picture the reader +must conceive the grey barren hills, which, contrasting strongly +with the fertility of the plains they encompass, are themselves +overlooked by the eternal snows of the Indian Caucasus. To the +English exile these valleys have another attraction, for in the hot +plains of Hindoostan artificial grasses are rarely to be found, and +the rich scent of luxuriant clover forcibly reminds the wanderer of +the sweet-smelling fields of his native land.</p> + +<p>But these pleasing associations were soon dispelled by the steep +and rugged features of the pass through which we ascended on +leaving the plain. It is called the Suffaed Kāk or White +Earth, and we found by the barometer, that the gorge of the ravine +was about a thousand feet above our last encamping ground. The +hills on either side were ragged and abrupt, but of insignificant +height: the length of the pass itself was about two miles, and from +its head to Koteah Shroof the road was stony and difficult; but, as +we had been careful at starting not to overload our baggage +animals, they got through their work without being much +distressed.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="III">III.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>I find it difficult to convey to the reader an adequate +conception of the strange character of the hilly country we had now +entered: no parts of Wales or even the varied groupings of the +Swiss mountains offer a correct analogy. After passing the defile +of the Suffaed Kāk the hills recede to a distance of about two +miles on either side of the road, and the whole space thus offered +to the labours of the peasant is very highly cultivated; but the +barren rocks soon hem in the narrow valley, and as you approach +nearer and nearer you find your enchanting gardens transformed into +a dreary and desolate defile,––this succession of small +plots of fertile ground, alternating with short rugged passes, +extends to Julrez, ten miles beyond Koteah Shroof; which latter +place is an insignificant fort, situated in the centre of one of +the little green spots so pleasingly varying this part of the +country.</p> + +<p>At Koteah Shroof we gained the banks of the Cabul river, a +placid flowing stream, and as the neighbourhood of our camp did not +offer any features of peculiar interest, I determined to try my +luck in fishing; but first I had to tax my ingenuity for +implements, as I had neither rod, line, nor net. A willow stick and +a bit of string was all I could command; and yet my primitive +apparatus was very successful, for the fish also were primitive, +affording me ample sport and taking the bait with extraordinary +eagerness. My occupation attracted the attention of a few peasants +who gathered round me, and stood wondering what potent charm +attached to the string could entice the fish from their native +element. I endeavoured to explain the marvel, but was utterly +unsuccessful; indeed, the peasants did not accept my explanation, +which they evidently considered as a fabrication invented to +deceive them and conceal my supernatural powers. The inhabitants of +these valleys seemed a simple and inoffensive race, and, as in +Europe, their respectful demeanour became more conspicuous as we +increased our distance from the capital.</p> + +<p>With regard to the state of cultivation of this +valley––in which it resembles others generally +throughout Affghanistan––wherever there is soil enough +to hold the seed, the Affghān husbandman appears to make the +most of it. We found here and there in profusion the pear, apple, +cherry, mulberry, and luxuriant vine, and in some situations wheat, +with an under-crop of clover.</p> + +<p>On the 17th we proceeded to Julrez, a collection of wretched +hovels of no interest, and on the 18th, after a march of ten miles +through a succession of valleys and defiles, we reached the +Kuzzilbash fort, Suffaed Kulla. About two miles before we arrived +at our encamping ground we passed near the Sir-e-chusm or "fountain +head," one of the sources of the Cabul river; it is a large pool +stocked with a multitude of enormous fish that are held sacred by +the few inhabitants of the adjoining hamlets, and which are daily +fed by an aged fanatic, who for many years has devoted himself to +their protection. As it would be deemed in the highest degree +sacrilegious to eat any of these monsters, they are never molested, +and are so tame as to come readily to the hand when offered food. +Of course, my necessary compliance with the prejudices of the +guardian of the fish prevented the exercise of my Waltonian +propensities.</p> + +<p>A little further on is a remarkable bourj or <i>watch-tower</i> +isolated on a projecting rock, and supposed to have been built for +the purpose of giving the chiefs of the little plain below, when at +variance with the neighbouring mountaineers, notice of the +approaching invader. At this point the valley is extremely narrow, +being almost choked up with huge masses of rock hurled by the +violence of some convulsion of nature from the sides of the +impending precipices.</p> + +<p>There are several minor forts in the vicinity of Suffaed Kulla, +which is the largest, and is at present occupied by a Kuzzilbash +chief, who took advantage a few years ago of the temporary absence +of its rightful owner, and acting upon the principle of "might +makes right," possessed himself forcibly of it, and has held it +ever since. He treated us with great kindness and attention, +sending us most acceptable presents of fruit, with food for our +followers and cattle.</p> + +<p>We here experienced to a great degree that remarkable daily +variation of temperature so peculiar to these regions: in the gully +the wind was bleak and cold, but when encamped under the shelter of +the fort the heat from the sun's rays reflected from the smooth +surface of the bare rock was so intense that the thermometer rose +to 100 of Fahrenheit. While in camp at Cabul I frequently +experienced the same rapid change, for it would sometimes be a hard +frost at day-break and an Indian summer heat at mid-day.</p> + +<p>On the 19th of June we started very early, as the tremendous +Oonnye pass rising to the height of 11,400 feet lay before us, and +we had a full ten miles march ere we could reach our proposed +halting place at the village of Uart. We soon entered the mouth of +the pass, which was girt on either side by magnificent precipices; +the road was narrow and slippery––of course without +even an apology for a parapet––running along a natural +ledge on the verge of a perpendicular cliff, and so <i>sheer</i> +was the side, that from a horse's back you might sometimes have +dropped a stone into the apparently bottomless +ravine––bottomless, for the rays of a noon-day sun have +never broken the eternal darkness of the awful chasm beneath. Had +horse, camel, or man missed their footing whilst scrambling up the +steep and stony pathway, nothing could have saved them from being +dashed to pieces. Frequently, when rounding some projecting crag, +the small treasure-box fastened on the camel literally overhung the +abyss, and I held my breath and the pulsations of my heart +increased as I watched horse after horse and camel after camel +weather the critical point.</p> + +<p>Before we reached Uart a poor woman of the Huzareh tribe (the +most persecuted and enslaved throughout these regions) came and +complained to us that her child had been seized by a band of +plunderers, as she supposed, to be sold into slavery. Sturt +immediately despatched a couple of the guard to recover her child +if possible, and the poor woman went off with the two soldiers in +the full confidence that her escort would be successful. I own that +I myself was not so sanguine, but I had yet to learn how much even +in these wild mountains the British name was respected. The +mother's hopes were realized, and in the course of the day the +child was recovered, having been instantly surrendered on the +requisition being made; but I was surprised to see instead of a +helpless child a fine handsome well-knit young man. The gratitude +of the poor woman was sincere; she had nothing, she said, to offer +in return, but prayed that every blessing might descend upon us and +our most distant relations; that we might all become great kings; +and that finally we might be successful in conquering the country +we were proceeding to invade: vain were our endeavours to set +before her in their true light the object of our expedition.</p> + +<p>We arrived rather late at Uart after a hard day's work, and were +not much gratified by the aspect of our camp, which was +disagreeable, from its great elevation and its situation on a bleak +table-land, thinly covered with a short grass, with the strong +winds of the Hindoo Khoosh sweeping across it.</p> + +<p>Here a young woman came to our tent asking permission to avail +herself of our protection, as she was proceeding to the frontiers +of Toorkisthān to purchase slave girls for the Cabul market. +She accompanied us to Bameeān, and there remained. I heard +afterwards that she did not succeed according to her anticipations, +and that on her return to Cabul she died of fever. Our English +ideas of slavery drawn from our knowledge of the varied sufferings +endured by the thousands who are annually exported from the western +shores of Africa, are opposite to those entertained in the east +even by the victims themselves. The Asiatic and African slave are +alike in name alone; the treatment of the latter in those parts of +America where, spite of the progress of civilization and the +advancement of true principles of philanthropy over the world, +slavery is still tolerated and encouraged, has been too well and +too often described for me to venture a word of my own opinion, but +in Asia, in many cases, the loss of liberty is hardly felt.</p> + +<p>The situation of the domestic slave of Egypt (though, strictly +speaking, he must be classed under the head of "African") is +analogous to that observable generally in the east; and I form my +opinion partly from an anecdote related to me by my friend Captain +Westmacott, of the 37th Native Infantry, who was killed in the +retreat from Cabul, which I will venture to repeat as an +illustration. He was proceeding by the overland route from England +to India, and remained some time in Egypt to view its splendid +antiquities. On making inquiries with the object of procuring +servants, he was informed that he had better purchase slaves. The +civilized notions of my friend revolted at the idea, but he was +assured that it was a method very generally adopted, as he would +find it extremely difficult to hire servants, and if successful, +they would prove the veriest rascals on the face of the earth. He +reluctantly consented, and had them purchased. On his departure for +India he summoned his slaves, and informed them that as they had +behaved themselves well he would give them their freedom. They +looked astounded and burst into tears, reminding him that instead +of being kind to them he had shewn cruelty, "for where," said they, +"shall we go now? Who will have anything to say to us? We shall +starve and die; but if your highness will sell us again, we shall +be well fed and clothed." I confess I do not see why the servants, +if they really were so anxious to return to slavery, should not +have sold themselves, and pocketed their own value. Throughout +Afghanistān a slave is treated as an humble friend, and is +generally found to be faithful and trustworthy.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="IV">IV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>After surmounting the Oonnye Pass, which is one of the principal +defiles of the Hindoo Khoosh, we proceeded on the 20th to +Gurdundewāl, a distance from Uart of about six and a half +miles. The road was a gradual descent, and very rugged, leading +along the bases of barren rocks, till we debouched upon the river +Elbon, as it is termed by the natives, but the Helmund or Etymander +of the ancients. Even here, where the stream was in its infancy, +the current was so strong, that while we were fording it, one of +our baggage ponies laden with a tent was carried away by its +violence, and, but for the gallant exertions of our tent-pitcher, +we should have had to sleep in the open air for the rest of our +journey; as it fortunately happened, both animal and load were +recovered; and when properly dried, neither one nor the other were +a bit the worse for their washing. On the 21st we encamped near the +village of Kazee, after a march of nine miles along the right bank +of the Helmund, which here flows in a south-westerly direction; we +could procure no supplies whatever, either for man or beast, which +was the more vexatious as we had a very hard day's work in prospect +for the morrow, and were anxious to recruit ourselves and cattle +before attempting it. We managed well enough in spite of our +compulsory fast, and on the 22d we reached Kalloo, a distance of +twelve miles, after crossing the steep and difficult pass of +Hadjekuk, 12,400 feet high; as we approached the summit we found +ourselves amongst the snow, and experienced some little +inconvenience from a difficulty of respiration; though this pass +was even higher than that of Oonnye, it does not possess the same +abruptness and boldness of feature which render the latter so +interesting and dangerous. The hills near the gorge were so +strongly impregnated with iron as sensibly to affect the needle of +the theodolite.</p> + +<p>Throughout this country, and especially amongst the Uzbegs, +there is a fortified wall in the form of a square surrounding each +village, with small bastions or towers at the angles. Plunder is so +much the order of the day, or rather of the night, that, as a +protection, the cattle and every living animal are shut up in these +places at sunset; the wicket is locked and barred, and if the +villagers happen to have a feud with any of their neighbours, which +generally is the case, a watchman is stationed on each bastion. +Truly of this land it may be said, that "what one sows another +reaps," for frequently a chief forming a "chuppäo" or +plundering party against his neighbour, if unsuccessful in seizing +men to sell for slaves or cattle for use, reaps and carries off the +corn. These chuppäos are considered among the predatory tribes +very exciting affairs, as affording opportunities for the young +warriors to flesh their maiden swords; but it seldom happens that +these encounters are very bloody, as, in the event of one party +shewing a determined front, the other generally retreats. The +unfortunate Huzareh tribe are constantly the sufferers, and the +traveller will recognize more slaves of that than of any other +"clan."</p> + +<p>We were now in the vicinity of the Koh-i-baba, a mountain whose +granite peaks still towered six thousand feet above us, though our +own camp was at least nine thousand above the level of the sea. We +determined upon ascending it the following morning, but at first +experienced considerable difficulty in procuring guides, not from +the natives being either unqualified or unwilling to undertake the +task, for they were chiefly hunters, and familiar with the paths +they had themselves formed in pursuit of game, but they could not +conceive why <i>we</i> should be anxious to climb the difficult +height, and therefore were obstinately stupid in refusing to +understand the purpose for which we required their services. At +length we obtained a guide, and started next morning at half-past +five: with considerable fatigue and some little risk we reached the +summit after three hours walking, but the magnificent view amply +rewarded us for our trouble. The peaks about us were capped with +eternal snow; those below were rugged and black. The comparison of +the view from the top of a lofty mountain in a hilly country with +that of the sea in a storm is old perhaps, but only the truer for +that very reason. It was, indeed, as if the hand of God had +suddenly arrested and turned to stone varied and fantastic forms of +the dark tumultuous waves.</p> + +<p>The solemn stillness of these lofty regions was a striking +contrast with the busy plains below. The mountains abound in wild +sheep, which the hardy hunter pursues for days together, taking +with him a slender stock of food, and wrapping his blanket about +him at night, when he seeks his resting-place amongst the crevices +of these barren rocks. It is seldom that he returns empty-handed if +he takes up a good position over-night, for the flocks of wild +sheep descend from the least accessible parts at the earliest dawn +in search of pasture, and one generally falls a victim to the +unerring bullet of the rested Juzzyl. The distant view of the +barrier range was beautiful beyond description, for, though the +peak on which we stood was the highest for many miles around us, +the lofty peaks of the Indian Caucasus were many thousand feet +above us. We were now beyond the range of the wild sheep, and not a +living creature was to be seen save a majestic eagle, who, deeming +<i>us</i> intruders where he was lord of all, sailed up along the +sides of the precipitous ravines, sweeping about our heads as he +soared upwards, then again wheeling downwards near and nearer, till +at length I fancied him within range; but so deceptive was the +distance or so defective my aim that he continued unruffled in his +course, whilst the sharp crack of the rifle echoed and re-echoed +from crag to crag. After satiating our gaze with these wild +splendours of creation, a most unsentimental craving of the inward +man warned us to descend, and we returned to Kalloo by eleven +o'clock to do ample justice to our breakfasts.</p> + +<p>We left Kalloo on the 24th, ascending by a rugged broken track +to the highest point of the pass, where we came upon a fort +surrounded by a small belt of cultivation divided into fields by +hedgerows abounding with wild roses. I could hardly have imagined +the road practicable for camels, but the cautious though unwieldy +animals eventually succeeded in surmounting all difficulties, and +arrived late at our encampment near a village called Topechee, the +whole distance being ten miles and a half. From the crest of the +pass to Topechee was a gradual descent, the road bordering a +tremendous fissure, deep and gloomy, along the bottom of which a +pelting torrent forced its way. The variegated strata on the +mountain side, forming distinct lines of red, yellow, blue, and +brown, were very remarkable, and I much regret that I had not time +to devote to them most strict examination in a geological point of +view.</p> + +<p>On the 25th we started for Bameeān, passing by another +Topechee a few miles further on, which is famous for its trout +stream. Very few of these fish are found in the country, and only +in the streams within a few miles of this spot. They are +red-spotted and well-flavoured, and, as the natives do not indulge +in the angler's art, they will rise at any kind of fly and gorge +any bait offered. While halting a few minutes at lower Topechee we +fell in with an Uzbeg warrior, a most formidable looking personage, +armed, in addition to the usual weapons of his country, with a huge +bell-mouthed blunderbuss at least three inches in diameter; the +individual himself was peaceably enough disposed, and, contrary to +the usual habit of Asiatics, made no objections to our examining +the small cannon he carried. On inspecting the deadly instrument we +discovered it to be loaded to the very muzzle, a mixture of +pebbles, slugs, and bits of iron being crammed into the barrel over +a charge of a couple of ounces of powder. On our inquiring why it +was so heavily charged, the man told us with much naiveté, +that it was to kill <i>nine</i> men, illustrating the method by +which this wholesale destruction was to be accomplished, by +planting the butt on his hip and whirling the muzzle from right to +left in a horizontal direction across us all, and telling us very +pleasantly that if he were to fire we should all fall from the +scattering of the different ingredients contained in the +blunderbuss; had we not an instant before drawn the charge from +which the fellow anticipated such dire effects, we might have felt +rather uncomfortable at our relative positions; but I doubt whether +the owner had ever had occasion to try the efficacy of his boasted +manoeuvre, as he would probably at the first discharge have been +killed himself either by the recoil or the bursting of the +defective and honey-combed barrel.</p> + +<p>The approach to Bameeān was very singular; the whole face +of the hills on either hand was burrowed all over with caves like a +huge rabbit-warren. I am informed that these caves are the work of +nature, "yet worked, as it were planned," and are occupied +occasionally by travellers both in summer and winter; they are +observable in many places in Toorkisthān, and, when situated +high up on the face of the hill, afford a safe retreat for the +hunter. The road was tolerably good for the last three miles, +running along a narrow valley sprinkled with numerous forts, which +are generally occupied by the Huzareh tribes, an ill-featured but +athletic race.</p> + +<p>I shall not detain the reader by any description either of the +wonderful ruins of the ancient city of Goolgoolla or of the +gigantic images of Bameeān, these curiosities having been ably +described in Masson's very interesting work; but I was a good deal +amused by the various legends with which the natives are familiar, +of one of which, relating to a chalybeate spring in the +neighbourhood called the "Dragon's Mouth," I shall take the liberty +to offer a free version. It was related to me by an old gentleman +who brought a few coins to sell, and I listened to him with some +patience; but in proportion as the old fellow observed my passive +attention did he increase in verbosity and pompous description. I +still waited for the <i>point</i> of the story, but my friend, +after exhausting his powers of speech and metaphor, was fain to +wind up his tale with a most lame and impotent conclusion. I now +give it to the reader, not from a wish to punish him as I was +punished, but because from the prolixity of the narrator he +necessarily most minutely described scenes and customs, which, +though they had nothing on earth to do with the "Dragon's Mouth," +may prove interesting to the reader, as illustrating the +peculiarities of the people amongst whom we were now +sojourning.</p> + +<p><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="V">V.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<h4>"A TALE OF THE DRAGON'S MOUTH."</h4> + +<br /> + + +<p>In the reign of Ameer Dost Mahommed Khān, when all the pomp +and pride of glorious war was in its zenith at Cābul, there +lived on the borders of Kulloom and Kundooz, a chieftain named Khan +Shereef, whose grandfather had accompanied the illustrious Nadir +Shah from Persia in his expedition through Affghanistān, and +followed the fortunes of his royal master, even to the very gates +of the imperial Delhi. On his return towards Persia, he had for a +time intended to settle in Cābul, but "death, who assaults the +walled fort of the chieftain as well as the defenceless hovel of +the peasant," seized him for his own; the father also paid the debt +of nature in the capital of Affghanistān, but not before the +young Khan Shereef had seen the light. Growing up to manhood and +wearying of the monotonous life a residence in Cābul entailed, +he pursued his way across the frontier mountains of +Toorkisthān, and arrived at the court of Meer Moorad Beg. Here +he performed good service in the field, and becoming his master's +personal friend and favourite, had a fort and a small portion of +territory assigned to him. It was at the court of the Kundooz ruler +that he first became acquainted with Zebah, the lovely rose of +Cashmere, whom he eventually purchased from her father for his +wife.[*] He started with his bride to take possession of his +newly-acquired gift, an insulated fortress in the heart of a +country abounding in those extensive prairies for which +Toorkisthān is so justly celebrated. On these magnificent +savannahs he reared the Toorkman steed, and soon boasted an +unrivalled stud.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: It is customary in this country as +well as in other parts of Asia to purchase the young women who may +be selected for wives of their relations, the purchase money +varying according to the degrees of beauty.] Towards the close of +the first year he became a father, an event which was hailed with +extravagant joy by all his vassals, the old retainers of his father +foretelling the future achievements in the foray of the young +Abdoollah Reheem.</p> + +<p>A few months had scarcely elapsed, when the anxious mother spied +an old crone moving about in the court-yard; their eyes happening +to meet, Zebah screamed and fell into a swoon. The young heir was +instantly hurried away, but not before the old hag had cast a +withering glance on the boy's beautiful face; every one was now +fully convinced that he had been struck by the "evil eye," which +was but too clearly proved by the event, for from that day he +sickened and pined away till reduced to a mere skeleton.</p> + +<p>Large sums of money were expended by the fond parents in the +endeavour to discover a charm to counteract the effects of the +"evil eye," till at length in an auspicious moment it was proposed +the boy should try the efficacy of the celebrated water of the +"Dragon's Mouth," which is situated at the head of the enchanting +vale of Bameeān, just beyond the western limits of +Toorkisthān. The slave girl who proposed this scheme related +numerous and wonderful cures effected by the magic waters, and +enumerated many hundred individuals, the lame, the blind, the +infirm, the rheumatic, and those afflicted with <i>bad temper</i>, +who had been perfectly cured by either drinking of the water or +being immersed in the fountain itself. She would not be positive +which mode was the best, but certain she was that the cure was +perfect and permanent; she herself had been ugly and +cross-tempered, and now she left her audience to judge of her +character and appearance. This last proof at once determined the +mother to adopt a plan, which after so many unsuccessful attempts +she could not but consider as her last resource.</p> + +<p>Khan Shereef was not quite so credulous, but what chance has a +man alone against his united harem! He was so far influenced by the +earnest entreaties of his disconsolate wife, that it was determined +in three days he should with a strong cavalcade accompany his +darling invalid to the charmed waters of Bameeān. The +Toorkmān warriors were too religious to doubt the fortunate +results of the experiment, and accordingly for the few days which +elapsed previous to the setting forth of the expedition the fort +was a scene of active preparation. Armour was burnished, swords +brightened and fresh ground, juzzyls cleaned and matches got ready, +so that they might produce as imposing an effect as possible, not +only on the presiding spirit of the fountain, and the very +questionable friends through whose territories they were about to +pass, but also that they might do due honour to their lord and +master.</p> + +<p>But before proceeding with my history, I must not omit a more +minute description of Khan Shereefs fort. I have already described +its locality on the borders of Toorkisthān. It was situated at +the base of a low conical hill, on the summit of which a look-out +tower had been erected; this building was in troublesome times +occupied by a party of Juzzylchees, who took their station in it, +and, fixing their cumbrous pieces on the parapet, watched the +approach of any hostile party, and from their commanding and +protected position would be enabled to keep in check an enemy +attempting to ascend the opposite side of the hill. As the nearest +stream of water was full two miles from the fort, the present +owner, being a man full of science and mathematical knowledge, had +with unparalleled ingenuity sunk a deep and substantial well inside +his walls, thus rendering his position infinitely more tenable than +if his water-carriers had been daily obliged, as is the case in +most places, to run the gauntlet of the enemy's fire whilst +procuring the requisite supply of that indispensable article.</p> + +<p>The fort itself was an oblong square, and required three hundred +men to man its walls; it was built of mud, with a large bastion at +each angle three and four stories high, and loopholed. It had but +one gate, on which the nature of the defences afforded means for +concentrating a heavy fire. Immediately facing the gate, and +detached from buildings of inferior importance, was the Khan's own +residence, and some low flat-roofed houses lining the inside of the +whole extent of walls, which afforded a secure shelter to the +vassals. The audience-chamber or public sitting-room was so +situated that the Khān could survey the whole of the interior +of his fort whilst squatting on his Persian carpet or reclining on +the large soft pillow, which is an indispensable luxury for a +grandee of the rank and importance of Khān Shereef.</p> + +<p>The sides of the apartment consisted of a lattice-work of wood +reaching nearly to the ceiling, and connecting the mud pillars +which supported the roof; the framework was richly carved, and on +slides, so as to enable the owner to increase or diminish the +quantity of light and air at his pleasure.</p> + +<p>Between the Khān's dwelling and the gate was the mosque, +whose minarets towered above the walls and bastions of the +fort,––its dome was beautifully proportioned, and +inlaid with agate, jasper, and carnelian, besides being wonderfully +painted with representations of strange animals unknown to the +common people, but which the Moollah affirmed were all taken from +the life.</p> + +<p>At this time the base of the mosque was occupied by a party of +men smoking and passing the Kaleeān to each other; amongst +them was one, evidently superior to the rest in age and wisdom, for +his opinion was frequently appealed to by all and listened to with +much deference. When not called upon to interfere he sat quiet and +reserved, and to judge by his countenance was in a melancholy mood. +His name was Rhejjub;––he was the oldest retainer of +the family, and to him in all cases of emergency did the Khān +apply for advice, which had never been given without due +deliberation and almost prophetic foresight. He had only that +morning been deputed to remain and guard the fort during the +absence of his master, and although he knew it to be a post of +honor and trust, yet he could not but consider it an effeminate +duty to be left guardian of the Koch-khanah or <i>family</i>, and +superintendent of the <i>un</i>chosen of the band. With him, "to +hear was to obey," still he envied those who had been selected to +accompany their lord. Old Rhejjub had been a great traveller in his +day; had wandered over many portions of Arabia, and visited the +holy city of Mecca; thus gaining the valuable privileges of a Suyud +or <i>holy man</i>, which title alone was a passport and safeguard +amongst even the lawless Ghilgyes and Khyberrēes of +Affghanistān, it being a greater crime for a man to kill a +Suyud than even his own father. Thus, whenever a Chuppao or other +warlike expedition was in contemplation, Rhejjub was invariably +despatched to reconnoitre and obtain information, and being a man +of a shrewd turn of mind, and calculating all chances during his +homeward journey, was always prepared after detailing his news to +give a sound opinion as to the best plan to be pursued.</p> + +<p>At early dawn of the proposed day of departure the whole party +were summoned by the Muezzin's call to offer up prayers for their +safe arrival at the "Dragon's Mouth," for the effectual cure of the +young Abdoollah, and his happy return to his fond mother. Before +mounting, was performed the ceremony of taking from its resting +place the famous sword given to the Khān's grandfather by +Nadir Shah himself. The blade was of Damascus steel, and valued +alone at one hundred tomauns;[*] the ivory handle was ornamented +with precious stones, and the pommel was one large emerald of great +beauty and value. The scabbard was of shagreen finely embroidered +in gold. This precious weapon the Suyud had the enviable office of +presenting to his chief unsheathed, whilst the aged Moollah who +stood by read aloud the inlaid Arabic inscription on the blade, +"May this always prove as true a friend to thee as it has been to +the donor." The Khān received the valued heir-loom with all +due respect, and kissing the weapon sheathed and fixed it firmly to +his belt.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Tomaun, twenty rupees or about +£2.]</p> + +<p>All necessary preparations for the departure being now +completed, the camel destined for the accommodation of the invalid +was brought to the door of the palace, conducted by a favourite +Arab who had for many years filled the office of head Surwan or +<i>camel-driver</i>. The colour of the animal was almost white, and +the large gold embroidered housings swept the ground; on either +side was fixed a wicker-basket lined and covered with red cloth, +and furnished with soft cushions; one of these held the young +Khān, whilst the other was occupied by the nurse who was the +original promoter of the expedition. At length the word to march +was given, and the escort consisting of sixty horsemen galloped +forth. Khan Shereef himself was clad in a coat of mail, and wore a +circular steel head-piece, in which were three receptacles for as +many heron plumes; a light matchlock, the barrel of which, inlaid +with gold, was slung across his shoulder; attached to his +sword-belt were the usual priming and loading powder-flasks made of +buffalo's hide, with tobacco-pouch and bullet-holder of Russia +leather worked with gold thread; and the equipment was completed by +the Affghān boots drawn up over the loose trousers reaching to +the knee, with sharp-pointed heels serving for spurs.</p> + +<p>The procession moved on, the escort forming an advance and +rear-guard, the chief galloping sometimes in front of the party, +and now walking his Toorkmān steed alongside the richly +caparisoned camel with its precious burthen.</p> + +<p>Occasionally a horseman would dash out from the ranks in chace +of a wild goat or sheep crossing the little frequented road, or, +dismounting and giving his horse in charge of a comrade, would make +a detour on foot in the hope of getting a shot at a chichore.[*] +The tedious hours of march were thus wiled away till they reached +the "Dundun Shikkun Kotul" or <i>tooth-breaking</i> pass, when the +horsemen assumed a more steady demeanour. They were now within +forty miles of the celebrated spring, which they hoped to reach on +the following day.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: This is a species of partridge very +abundant throughout Toorkistan.]</p> + +<p>The Dragon's Mouth is situated four or five miles to the +north-west of Bameeān, high up in the mountains in the +direction of the Yookaoolung country. After a toilsome and somewhat +perilous ascent the traveller finds himself at the edge of a deep +ravine––or rather fissure in the rock, for the width at +the top is seldom more than twelve feet––the sides +presenting a ferruginous appearance, with tints varying from +extremely dark to lighter shades, by reason of the soil being so +strongly impregnated with ore. The low gurgling of the +wonder-working stream might be heard issuing from the depths of the +dark abysm.</p> + +<p>Below, and at the only point of feasible approach for the +disease-stricken, is a large cave, where the water bubbles up warm, +and forming innumerable small whirlpools before it breaks again +into a stream, and mingles its waters with those of a torrent +below.</p> + +<p>Here, at the base of a large fragment of rock, almost entirely +covered with Arabic inscriptions and quotations from the Korān +alluding to the healing powers of the well and the mercy of God, +Khan Shereef and his now dismounted followers offered up prayers +for success. Suddenly a huge mass of rock detaching itself from the +mountain side thundered down the steep; it was hailed by all as a +good omen, and the Moollah declaring that "now or never" was the +auspicious moment, the child was taken from the arms of the now +trembling nurse and immersed in the turbid waters. Hope elevated +the breasts of the father and of the attendants, nor was that +feeling fallacious, for on the following morning the invalid was +pronounced decidedly better, and was again taken to the cavern, and +again, with sanguine prayers and invocations, dipped into the +pool.</p> + +<p>Khan Shereef, feeling assured that he could now do no more, and +trusting to the goodness of Providence, ordered a retrograde +movement, and in a few days arrived at his castle with the infant +nearly restored to health. A few years after the young Abdoollah +was a healthy active boy, indulging in the sports of the field, and +anxiously awaiting the time when he should be of sufficient age to +join in the more exciting scenes of the chuppao. The old nurse, the +proposer of the successful scheme, was highly honoured, and became +chief attendant in the seraglio, which office she holds to this +day.</p> + +<p>"And now," concluded the old gentleman, "if my lord will choose +to purchase these beautiful coins, he shall have them for whatever +price his generosity may think fit to put upon them."</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VI">VI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>The force stationed at Bameeān consisted, at the time we +were there, of a troop of native horse artillery and a regiment of +Goorkahs in the service of Shah Seujah.</p> + +<p>On our arrival, Dr. Lord, the political agent, sent us a polite +note of invitation to pitch our tents near his fort, and (we) +become his guests during our stay; we remained with him till the +29th, and were much gratified by his kind attention.</p> + +<p>The quiet demeanour of the natives here was very remarkable, and +as we can hardly attribute the circumstance to an inherent pacific +disposition, we must the more appreciate the wonderful address +displayed by the political agent in his dealings with the various +parties, who in these remote mountains, as well as in more +civilised countries, are ever ready to quarrel with each other, and +only suspend their animosity when a common powerful enemy is to be +resisted or a helpless stranger to be plundered. As it was, we +reaped considerable benefit from the favourable impression made on +the peasants by the authorities, for we were enabled to go out +shooting, alone, and even wander unarmed amongst the hills without +experiencing the slightest insult or incivility.</p> + +<p>Indeed, at the period of which I am writing, there seemed to +have been a pause in the wild passions of the Affghāns +throughout the country, which was perhaps one of the fatal causes +which lulled us into that dangerous feeling of security, from +whence we were awoke by the most dreadful disaster that has ever +befallen the British arms. Poor Dr. Lord was killed at Purwan +Durrah during the short campaign in the Kohistan under Sir Robert +Sale; and the other British officer, Dr. Grant, who was the medical +attaché to the mission, disappeared during the retreat from +Charrikār in 1841, and has never been heard of since.</p> + +<p>On the 29th June we left Bameeān for Surruk Durrah (red +valley), which is situated at the mouth of the gorge; it is a place +of no importance, but the face of the impending hills has a most +extraordinary appearance from the fanciful shapes of the harder +rocks which jut out from the clayey sides of the mountains.</p> + +<p>Here it was that Colonel Dennie, of the 13th, who afterwards +fell at Jellālabad, with a small force of a few hundred men, +completely routed the Ex-Ameer Dost Mahommed Khān, who was +accompanied by all the principal Uzbeg chiefs and the famous Meer +Walli of Kulloom.</p> + +<p>A report reached the gallant Colonel in the morning, that the +enemy had taken up a position at the head of the Bameeān +valley; he immediately ordered a reconnoitring party to proceed in +that direction, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there was +any foundation for the alarm, and accompanied them himself; he was +rather astonished on perceiving the enemy debouching from the hills +in great force; the odds were fearfully against him in numbers, +but, like a good soldier, he at once decided upon attacking without +delay. He immediately opened a fire on them from his two guns, +under the able superintendence of Lieut. McKenzie, and then dashing +forward, drove them back with great slaughter into the narrow +gorge, from whence they again attempted to advance, but were again +beaten back, till at length they lost courage and broke away in +every direction.</p> + +<p>On the 30th we marched to Akrobād, a distance of ten miles. +On leaving Surruk Durrah we entered the narrow gorge before alluded +to; it is five miles long, and has precipitous sides, at the bottom +of which rushed a foaming torrent: the formation of the hills was +slate with a superstratum of limestone. On emerging from the +Akrobād Pass, where there was not a breath to disturb the +meagre foliage, we were suddenly surprized by a bleak piercing +wind, which we were told invariably blew across the table land on +which the fort is built. Although in the height of summer, the wind +was intensely cold, and we were glad to take into wear the scanty +supply of winter clothing which we had brought with us in case of +emergency. Out of the stream running in front of the fort in less +than an hour I managed to take a few well-flavoured trout, which +swallowed my bait most greedily. From Surruk Durrah to Akrobād +the road was, comparatively speaking, good, it being under the +superintendence of Lieut. Broadfoot, who had been directed to make +it practicable for artillery as far as Syghān; he had made +good progress in his work, and at the period I write of, it was a +very fair military road as far as Akrobād. Poor Broadfoot was +slain in the gallant and desperate charge made by the officers of +the 2d Bengal Cavalry at Purwān Durrah, of which I hope in the +proper place to be able to give the reader a slight +description.</p> + +<p>The hills about Akrobād are so situated as to form a funnel +for all the winds of the snowy range, rendering the temperature of +the little table-land bitterly cold both in summer and +winter––so much so in winter, that the Huzāreh +inhabitants desert the fort in autumn for some more sheltered +locality, and return again with the spring.</p> + +<p>We now entered Toorkisthān, the pass of Akrobād +dividing it from Affghanistān. Should the traveller form his +opinion of the country beyond by the specimen now before us, he +would be loth indeed to proceed, for a more dismal corner can +hardly be conceived. The outline of the adjacent mountains was +dreary and uninviting, with very little cultivation in the valley, +which also bore a most desolate aspect––it was barren +and unpromising, without participating in the wild and grand +features which generally characterize these regions. Fuel was with +difficulty procured, and our camp was but scantily furnished with +even the most necessary supplies.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VII">VII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 1st of July we left this sad region, and pitched our +tents some five miles further onwards, in a pleasant meadow, where +we met a brother of Dost Mahommed, the well-known Sirdār +Jubber Khān, who arrived in the course of the day from the +interior of Toorkistān, and encamped close to us. He was then +on his way to Cabul, having in charge the women and children +belonging to the seraglio of the ex-king. He invited us to pay him +a visit, which we did in uniform, and found him an agreeable old +gentleman, with manners far more polished than the generality of +his countrymen, who, though not deficient in a certain national +savage grace, frequently shock our European notions of propriety by +their open disregard of what we are accustomed to consider the +decencies of society; but Jubber Khān seemed to have all the +good qualities and few of the vices so prevalent in the +Affghān character. No doubt that superior polish of manner was +derived from his more extensive intercourse with Europeans. During +our visit he presented us each with a small silver Mahommedan coin, +saying at the same time with peculiar grace and dignity that he was +now a poor man, and entirely dependent on the generosity of the +British; that the coin was of no intrinsic value, but still he +hoped we would remember the donor. Much as we respected the +character of our host, I could not but regret that he had not yet +picked up the English habit of sitting on a chair; for what with +tight pantaloons and a stiff uniform, I got so numbed by sitting +cross-legged like a tailor, that when the interview was over I +could not rise from my cramped position without assistance, much to +the amusement of Jubber Khān, whose oriental gravity was +entirely upset.</p> + +<p>I was informed that on being requested by the British +authorities to deliver up the family of his brother, he boldly +refused, stating that they were given into his charge, and that he +deemed it a sacred trust not to be betrayed by any consideration of +personal advantage. It will be gratifying to the reader to know +that this manly refusal did not operate to his prejudice in the +opinions of those to whom it was made. He subsequently obtained +from the Dost permission to comply with the demand, and was now on +his journey for that purpose; but though he professed to have every +confidence in our honour and generous kindness with regard to the +females, he appeared somewhat anxious as to the influence which his +previous refusal might have with reference to his own treatment. +Jubber Khān's name was in great repute amongst the +Affghāns, who, all wild and savage as they are, still have +sufficient feeling to admire in others those virtues which are so +rarely met with amongst themselves: he is considered an able +politician also, as well as the poor man's friend––high +and low find him equally easy of access, and he is the general +mediator in quarrels between the different chiefs, and the +principal counsellor in the national debates.</p> + +<p>Whilst encamped here the united seraglios of Dost Mahommed and +Jubber Khān passed in front of our tents, on their way to +Kābul. It was a very large procession, consisting of nearly +eighty camel loads of fair ones of every age and quality. Each +camel was furnished on either side with a large pannier, and in +each pannier was a lady––weight against weight. The +presence of Englishmen so much excited their curiosity that we were +enabled to enjoy a nearer and better view of the beauties than +strict decorum would have justified, and it may not perhaps be +uninteresting to my fair readers, if, turning to advantage this +slight impropriety, I here take the liberty of describing as much +as I could observe of the very remarkable travelling costume of the +female Affghān aristocracy. When in public the highborn +Affghān lady is so completely enveloped by her large veil +(literally sheet), that the person is entirely concealed from head +to foot; there are two eyelet holes in that part of the sheet which +covers the face, admitting air and light, and affording to the fair +one, herself unseen, a tolerable view of external objects. I trust +I may be permitted without indiscretion to remove this shroud and +give some slight description of the costume.</p> + +<p>Over a short white under-garment, whose name of Kammese[*] +sufficiently denotes its use, is a Peirān or jacket, which +amongst the higher classes is made of Bokhāra cloth, or not +unfrequently of Russian broad cloth, brought overland through +Bokhāra. This garment is generally of some glaring gaudy +colour, red or bright yellow, richly embroidered either in silk or +gold; it is very like the Turkish jacket, but the inner side of the +sleeve is open, and merely confined at the wrist with hooks and +eyes. A pair of loose trousers, gathered at the waist with a +running silken cord, and large at the ankle, forms a prominent +feature in the costume, and is made either of calico, shawl-cloth, +or Cachmere brocade, according to the finances of the wearer. +Instead of stockings they wear a kind of awkward-looking linen bag, +yellow or red, soled with thick cloth or felt, the top being edged +with shawl-cloth. The shoes are similar to the Turkish slipper, +with the usual Affghān high-pointed heels tipped with iron; +and as these articles must from their shape be an impediment to +walking, I presume that the real use to which they are generally +put must have given rise to the common expression in +Hindoostān for any punishment inflicted, the term being "jutte +mar," literally, beating with the shoe. The weapon put to this +purpose would be very formidable, and I have little doubt that the +beauties of the harem keep their lords in high discipline by merely +threatening with such an instrument.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Anglice, Chemise. It may fairly be +inferred that the name of this under-garment is derived from the +word mentioned in the text; and doubtless there are many words in +our own as well as in other modern languages that may equally be +traced to Asia; for instance, Sheittan, Satan.]</p> + +<p>On the head of the Affghān female is worn a small skull +cap, keeping in place the hair in front, which is parted, laid +flat, and stiffened with gum, while the rest hangs in long plaits +down the back.</p> + +<p>Next day we left for Syghān, and after a march of about +fifteen miles pitched our tents in the vicinity of the principal +fort. The whole journey was through a deep defile, except about +half-way, when we came upon a small but well cultivated plain, with +a fort in the centre. The contrast was pleasing after travelling so +many miles amidst the dark overhanging crags, threatening +destruction on the passer-by; but this relief was of short +duration, for after two miles it gradually contracted, and formed a +continuation of the defile down to the valley of Syghān.</p> + +<p>The fort is on a small hill detached from the main range, but +easily commanded, though it is said for ages to have been deemed +impregnable, till some chief more knowing than his neighbours hit +upon the very obvious expedient of lining the overhanging range +with Juzzylchees, and picking off every individual who ventured to +appear on the battlements. It is now in our possession, and +occupied by two companies of Sepoys; and though the place might be +seriously annoyed by musketry from the adjacent hills, still the +sides of those hills are so rocky and precipitous that cannon could +not be brought to bear from the summit without immense labour.</p> + +<p>These hills are composed of sandstone and indurated clay, in +which numerous fossils abound.</p> + +<p>The valley along which we proceeded produces many varieties of +fruit, and is rich in the cultivation of artificial grasses, +lucerne being the most abundant.</p> + +<p>On arriving at our encamping ground on the 3rd of July, about +four miles and a half beyond Syghān, a poor villager, a vassal +of Mahommed Ali Beg's, to whom the fort of Syghān belonged +previous to its cession to the British, came to complain that some +of our baggage animals had injured one of his fields by trampling +down his grain. Upon enquiry his story was found to be correct. +Mahommed Ali Beg happened to be paying us a visit when the man +presented himself, and wished to drive the poor fellow away to +prevent his troubling us; and great indeed was the wonder and +astonishment shewn by all the natives about us when Sturt desired +that the peasant should receive ten rupees as compensation for the +damage done to his crops.</p> + +<p>Loud were the praises bestowed upon our <i>extraordinary</i> +justice; and Mahommed Ali Beg, forgetting the line of conduct he +had but a moment before advocated, delivered the following +expression of his reformed opinion in a loud pompous tone, whilst +his followers listened, open-mouthed, to the eloquence of their now +scrupulous chief: "Although the Feringhis have invaded our country +they never commit any act of injustice;" then, having delivered +himself of this inconsistent speech, he lifted a straw from the +ground, and turning round to his audience, continued: "they don't +rob us even of the value of <i>that</i>; they pay for every thing, +even for the damage done by their followers." Corporal Trim's hat +falling to the ground was nothing to the effect produced by the +comparison of the straw; but, alas for human nature! I had but too +strong grounds for suspecting that, of the ten rupees awarded to +the peasant, seven were claimed by Ali for having induced the +Feringhis to listen to the claim!!</p> + +<p>The surrounding hills have here as at Surruk Durrah the +appearance of ruined castles, with donjon or keep and tower; they +forcibly reminded me of the "Castle of St. John," in Scott's Bridal +of Triermain, but my visions of Merlin and fair maidens awoken from +their charmed slumbers were destroyed by the sight of a little +purling brook which promised me a few hours angling. Nor was I +disappointed; for in a short time I (being unprovided with my +fishing basket) filled two towels full of fish, and congratulated +myself on my sport; however, to use an old phrase, "the proof of +the pudding is in the eating," and so we found it, for when brought +to table "my catch" fell far short of our epicurean anticipations, +and I almost regretted that I had not continued my dreams instead +of disturbing the finny tribe.</p> + +<p>A complaint was made to us in the course of the day, that an +Huzareh female, returning to her own country with one attendant, +had been seized and carried away to one of the adjacent forts, +where she was detained; and our interference was requested with a +view to obtaining her release. We were of course most anxious to +help the poor woman, especially as it appeared from what was +reported to us that there were not the slightest grounds for the +outrage, beyond the helplessness of her situation and the natural +cupidity of the robber chief of the fort; but, unfortunately, we +were travelling without credentials, the Envoy having declined to +furnish us, lest the inhabitants should fancy that we were vested +with any political power; and therefore we could not interfere, and +what became of her I know not, though we were afterwards told that +on her resigning her trinkets as her ransom she would be released. +Indeed the personal ornaments of the petty chiefs are generally the +point of some lawless proceeding like the one alluded to, as they +are seldom possessed of sufficient capital in specie to purchase +jewels, but exchange their grain and fruits for clothes and +precious stones. I have mentioned the above circumstance to give +the reader some notion of the lawless state of society, deeming it +out of keeping with the humble character of this simple narrative, +and perhaps beyond the ability of the writer, to enter more +minutely into the various causes which have contributed to bring +the country into so unhappy a state.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VIII">VIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 4th July our route lay across the Dundun Shikkun. Kotul, +or "tooth-breaking pass," and a truly formidable one it is for +beasts of burden, especially the declivity on the northern side. +Very few venture upon the descent without dismounting, for the +surface of the rock is so smooth and slippery, that the animals can +with difficulty keep their legs even when led, and many teeth, both +of man and horse, have been broken before reaching the bottom.</p> + +<p>The valley of Kāmmurd lying at the foot of the northern +side of the pass has a very fertile appearance, and orchards of +different descriptions of fruit-trees are interspersed throughout +the cultivation. The fort of the principal chief, named +Uzzuttoollah Beg, from whom we received a visit, is high up the +valley, and there are two others of minor importance on either bank +of the river, lower down and together.</p> + +<p>Uzzuttoollah Beg was in appearance a very fine old man with an +imposing white beard; he was six feet high, large boned and +muscular, and by far the most powerful and stately looking +personage we had hitherto met; but he was a shrewd wicked old +fellow, and when the star of British prosperity began to wane, +proved himself a dangerous enemy. His own vassals, from whom he +exacted the strictest obedience, stood in great awe of him. He came +merely, he said, to pay his respects, to chat over political +affairs, and to inquire from us whether the English intended giving +up his valley to the Meer Walli of Koollum. We could give him no +information as to the intentions of Government. "Khoob (well,)" +answered he, "if such really be the case, the Meer Walli may seize +me if he is able, provided <i>you</i> keep aloof; the Meer has +tried that game before now, but did not succeed; on two separate +occasions he has visited my fort in an unceremonious manner, and +with hostile intent; but, gentlemen, there are two sides to a fort, +the inside and the out. I was in––the Meer was out, and +I kept him there; till, (suffering no other inconvenience myself +than the deprivation from riding for a few days,) by keeping up a +constant fire on his ragamuffins, I one fine day compelled him to +beat his retreat:" and so saying, he stroked his beard with much +complacency, evidently considering it and its owner the two +greatest wonders of the Toorkisthān world.</p> + +<p>It may be as well to remark here, that in these valleys as +throughout Affghanistān in general, the forts are made of mud, +the walls being of great strength and thickness; they are built +gradually, and it takes many months to erect a wall twenty feet +high, as each layer of mud is allowed to bake and harden in the sun +before the next is superimposed. Now, as none of the chiefs possess +cannon, except the Meer Walli and Moorad Beg of Koondooz, it is +almost impossible to gain an entry into a well-constructed fort, +except by treachery; and even the few honey-combed pieces of small +calibre possessed by the above chieftains would not have much +effect against the massive ramparts.</p> + +<p>But the Uzbegs have a method of undermining the bastion, by +turning the course of some convenient stream right under the very +base; this gradually softens the lower stratum of mud, and +diminishing its tenacity, the whole fabric comes tumbling down from +its own weight. They also have frequently recourse to mining, but +for either method to succeed the defenders cannot be on the +alert.</p> + +<p>A man who had been engaged in an operation of the latter kind, +by which the fort of Badjghār was once taken, explained to me +the plan adopted, which bears a rude analogy to the modern plan of +mining under the glacis to the foot of the counterscarp.</p> + +<p>To-day a horseman came into our camp at about 3 P.M. with +letters from Bameeān; he had left early in the morning, and +thus accomplished a journey of fifty miles with the same horse, +over two severe passes, and through a succession of difficult +defiles. On alighting, he tied his horse to the branch of a tree, +merely loosening the girths, but not intending to give him food +till the evening. The horses are habituated to the want of any +midday feeding, and at night and morning seldom get grain. But the +dried lucerne and other artificial grasses with which they are +supplied must afford them sufficient nourishment, as they are +generally in very good working condition; they are undersized, but +very sure-footed; it is indeed astonishing over what fearful ground +they will carry their riders. The yabboo is a different style of +animal, heavier built and slower; its pace is an amble, by means of +which it will get over an immense distance, but it is not so +sure-footed.</p> + +<p>I remarked that aged horses were very rarely met with, and on +inquiring the reason, was informed that the horses were all so +violently worked when young as soon to break down, after which they +are slaughtered and made into <i>kabobs</i>. I was assured that the +eating-shops of Cabul and Kandahār always require a great +supply of horseflesh, which is much liked by the natives, and when +well seasoned with spices is not to be distinguished from other +animal food.</p> + +<p>At this station fruit was in great profusion; I observed that +the sides of a barren hill near our camp were of a bright yellow +tint for upwards of a mile and a half, and on approaching to +discover the cause, I found the whole space covered with apricots +placed side by side to dry in the sun. I tasted some of them, which +had apparently only just been gathered, and found them very well +flavoured, though generally speaking I must allow that the fruits +of these valleys are inferior to those of Europe, with the +exception of the grape, which is unequalled. But the grape and +apricot are not the only fruits which flourish in this green spot +surrounded by barren rocks,––the walnut, the peach, +mulberry, apple, and cherry, also come to perfection in their +respective seasons.</p> + +<p>At sunset Uzzuttoollah Beg sent us a plentiful supply of fruit, +grain for our cattle, and flour for the servants, regretting at the +same time that he was not able to send us sheep enough for the +whole party. When he came to take leave, we told him we had +received more than we expected or required, and begged his +acceptance of a loonghee or <i>headdress</i> in remembrance of us. +He was much gratified with the trifle, it being of Peshawurree +muslin, a kind much sought after and prized by the Uzbegs. He +immediately took off his own turban, which was indeed rather the +worse for wear, and binding the new one round his head, declared +with a self-satisfied look, that "it would be exceedingly +becoming." He then arose, and probably to shew his knowledge of +European breeding, gave me such a manly shake of the hand as made +me expect to see the blood start from the tips of my fingers. I am +not sure, with all due respect for the good old custom of shaking +hands, that I should not have preferred submitting to the Uzbeg +mode of salutation. On approaching an equal, the arms of both are +thrown transversely across the shoulders and body, like the +preparatory attitude of wrestlers in some parts of England, then, +placing breast to breast, the usual form of "salaam aleikoom" is +given in a slow measured tone. But on horseback the inferior +dismounts, and, according to the degree of rank, touches or +embraces the stirrup.</p> + +<p>The valley of Kammurd is of an oblong form flanked by stupendous +mountains; the enormous barrier of the Dundun Shikkun almost +precludes the possibility of bringing cannon from the south, +although one gun is known to have been dragged over by sheer manual +labour; it was brought by Dost Mahommed from Cabul to quell some +refractory chiefs, the carriage being taken to pieces, and the gun +fastened by ropes in the hollowed trunk of a tree.</p> + +<p>On the 5th of July we reached Piedbāgh, five miles further +down the valley, which gradually decreased in breadth, seldom +exceeding two hundred yards, and sometimes contracting to fifty. +Along the banks of a muddy river flowing through the centre of the +narrow vale, the sycamore tree was very luxuriant, and two or three +forts formed a chain of communication from one end of the +cultivated land to the other. Piedbāgh, as its name implies, +is a complete orchard, <i>piedan</i> meaning perpetual, and +bāgh, garden; from a distance it looks like a thick wood with +the turrets of the forts overtopping the dark foliage. We took +advantage of the quiet beauty of this spot to give our horses a +day's rest, and lucky it was for us we had at Bameeān +exchanged for stout yaboos the unwieldy camels which we had brought +from Cabul; the yaboos get over the ground twice as fast as the +camel, and for mountainous districts are infinitely preferable to +the "ship of the desert."</p> + +<p>It was lucky also that we had not burdened ourselves with +bedsteads or charpoys, as they are called in the East (literally +"<i>four feet</i>"); they would have inconvenienced us much; and we +should, probably, have been forced to abandon them on the road, the +pathways along the glens being often so narrow, and so encumbered +with the detritus from the overhanging mountains, as to make it +necessary to pack our baggage very compactly; inattention to this +important point in mountain travelling is sometimes followed by +very serious consequences, for the chair or bedstead, projecting +far beyond the centre of gravity of the unfortunate animal, catches +against a corner of rock, and both load and pony run imminent risk +of being hurled into the abyss below. We were now so inured to +sleeping on the ground, that had it not been for the multitudes of +fleas we should never have felt the want of a more elevated +sleeping place. The animal and vegetable character of Piedbāgh +may be stated in a few words––apricots and fleas are in +abundance, the former very large sized, and the latter healthy.</p> + +<p>In the course of my journal I hope to be able to relate the +circumstances of a very pretty little affair which occurred here, +some months after we passed through, between two companies of Shah +Soojah's Goorkah regiment and the inhabitants of the neighbouring +forts. The Goorkahs, upholding their well-known character, fought +desperately against an overwhelming force; they would have suffered +severely but for the able conduct of their leader, who was an +European non-commissioned officer and quarter-master sergeant of +the corps; his manoeuvring would have done credit to many an older +soldier.</p> + +<p>On the 7th July we quitted Piedbāgh for Badjghār, the +most westerly of our advanced posts; it was occupied at the period +of which I write by Captain Hay, and was the head-quarters of the +Goorkah battalion. The hills from a little above Piedbāgh +encroach so much upon the valley as to reduce it to little more +than a ravine forming two gigantic walls, that on the right being +inaccessible save to the wild goat, whilst the left-hand boundary, +though still precipitous, may be surmounted by active light-armed +troops. On emerging from the orchards we came upon a grass meadow +extending to the fort of Badjghār, which is again situate at +the mouth of a defile leading to Māther, the route we +eventually pursued. The fort is capable of containing about two +hundred men; when first taken possession of it was literally choked +with filth and abominations of all kinds, but the industry of the +little garrison had succeeded in giving it an air of cleanliness +and comfort. As a military position it is most faulty, and it is +really astonishing to conceive how heedless those who fixed upon it +as a post of such importance must have been of the manifold +weakness of the place; from the surrounding heights it has the +appearance of being situated in a deep dyke; it is completely +hemmed in, and juzzaelmen occupying the adjacent hills could easily +find cover from whence they might pour in so destructive a fire as +to render the place untenable. In addition to these defects, the +fort of Badjghār is unprovided with a well within its +defences; this, as has before been remarked, is a common case, but +still it would materially affect the integrity of a force within, +as they would be reduced to the necessity of frequent sallies to +the neighbouring stream to obtain water.</p> + +<p>We found Capt. Hay in no enviable position; he had but one +European to assist him in his various important duties; the three +or four officers who were nominally attached to the corps being +either on detachment or other military employ, so that with such +slender aid as one European sergeant, it was very hard work for him +to keep up discipline amongst a brave but half savage band, to +provide for their subsistence, keep a sharp look-out on his front +and flanks, and remain on good terms with the neighbouring chiefs, +whose conflicting interests, lawless propensities, and savage +nature were continually requiring his mediation or +interference.</p> + +<p>"<i>Quem deus vult perdere prius dementat</i>" is an old saw +most applicable to the conduct, or rather want of conduct of the +"powers that were" during the spring of 1841, and the state of the +important outpost of Badjghār is a type of the condition of +most of the detached posts throughout the kingdom of Cabul; the +dreadful catastrophe which ushered in the year 1842 is but too +unanswerable a proof of the opinion I here express; and though +innumerable instances of individual gallantry as well amongst the +unlettered privates as the superior officers have thrown a halo +round their bloody graves, the stern truth still forces itself upon +us, that the temporary eclipse of British glory was not the +consequences of events beyond the power of human wisdom to foresee +or ward off, but the natural results of an overweening confidence +in our power, and of an infatuated blindness to the sure +indications of the coming storm which for many months before it +burst darkened our political horizon.</p> + +<p>It will easily be believed that the various duties entailed upon +Capt. Hay left him but little time for scientific researches, yet +this indefatigable officer had already made a fine collection of +geological specimens from the adjacent hills. I regret that +circumstances prevent me from giving any of the useful information +which his industry supplied. I am only able to say, that the +fossils were generally found in tertiary deposits, and were +plentiful in quantity, but the variety was not great. He had at the +time of our visit made, likewise, considerable progress in putting +his position into as good a state of defence as circumstances +allowed; of course he had not means to defilade his fort, but he +had erected a breastwork four feet and a half high across the +defile, which would certainly be of great use in checking any body +of horsemen who might advance from the north, at least for a time +sufficient to enable the garrison to prepare for an attack. The +fort seemed a focus for all the rays of the sun, and was intensely +hot, the thermometer ranging from 95 to 110 in the shade; nor was +the situation healthy, for a great many Goorkahs were in hospital, +and all were more or less debilitated from the effects of the +climate.</p> + +<p>Whilst at Badjghār we made the acquaintance of one of the +chiefs, Suyed Mahommed of the Dushti Suffaëd or <i>white +desert</i>, through whose country we eventually travelled; we found +him an easy good-tempered man, well inclined towards the British, +but grasping and avaricious. Throughout our intercourse with him he +behaved well, but he took occasion frequently to remind us we were +not to forget that he looked for a reward; still, in summing his +character, I must say he was superior to his "order;" for, either +from the wish to lead a quiet life or from his limited means and +unwarlike disposition, he was not given to feuds or chuppaos like +his neighbours. He sent rather a characteristic letter to Shah +Pursund Khān, a chief whose dominions were also on our line of +route, recommending us to his notice, but concluding by telling him +to judge of us and act according to our merits.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="IX">IX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 9th July we bade our kind friend Capt. Hay farewell, and +many were the prayers offered up for our safe return; the Goorkah +soldiers even accompanied us for three or four miles. Sturt had not +been supplied with any introductory letters from Sir William +M'Naghten, although he was sent on duty, for it was uncertain what +kind of a reception we might meet with amongst the chiefs of +Toorkisthān, and it was therefore deemed unadvisable to give +us the character of accredited agents, which would necessarily tend +to mix us up with politics. Though this plan may have been very +wise on the part of Government, yet it by no means contributed to +our comfort, as we found ourselves frequently the objects of +suspicion. Some of the chiefs plainly said, "you are come to survey +our country, and eventually to take possession;" but most of them +cared very little whether we came as friends or foes: they had +little to lose and everything to gain by a <i>row</i>. With a few +of the more influential chiefs the case was different; if we had +caused Dost Mahommed, the all powerful Ameer of Cābul, to +become a fugitive, what chance had they if our views led us across +the Hindoo Khoosh? Such was their mode of reasoning; but it must be +confessed that they were ignorant of the immense advantage the +rugged nature of their barren land would give them over a regular +army, and thus they were unable to form an idea of the value of the +resistance which a few determined mountaineers might oppose. +Amongst other wild schemes, I fancy that the idea was once +entertained, or at all events the question was mooted, of sending a +force to Bokhārā to procure the release of poor Stoddart. +Without dwelling upon the enormous sacrifice of life and treasure +which such an expedition of magnitude sufficient to ensure success +would entail, I may be permitted to point out what from personal +observation I have been led to consider as the "least impossible" +route. The line I should recommend would be the one we pursued as +far as Koollum, when the force should so shape its route as to +avoid the great sandy desert, which extends for three hundred and +fifty miles from Koollum to Bokhārā, by keeping to the +north, and "striking" the Oxus, which is navigable for boats of +heavy burthen for many hundred miles above the capital. But even on +this plan we must suppose the force to have already surmounted the +thousand and one passes which occur between Cabul and Koollum. Much +has been printed and a great deal more written and wisely left +<i>un</i>printed concerning the practicability of these routes for +a modern army; it savours of a useless truism to state, that if the +government making the attempt has resources sufficient in men, +transport, and treasure, and dwells not upon the sacrifice of these +three necessaries for an army, the thing may be done; but I can +hardly conceive any crisis in political affairs which could render +such a measure advantageous to the party undertaking it. The +advancing force will always suffer, whether it be Russia advancing +upon India, or India advancing towards Europe. The hand of God has +fixed the tremendous barrier; woe to him who would despise the +warning.</p> + +<p>Our route lay along the usual green vale so often described, +bounded by barren hills, over which a few inhabitants might +occasionally be seen stalking along in their dark-coloured +garments, which harmonized with the sombre character of the +country. We pitched our tents near the little fort of Māther, +about five miles from our last encampment, and situate at the foot +of the Kara Kotul, or <i>black pass</i>. Our resting place afforded +nothing remarkable; and indeed I feel that some apology is due to +my readers for the unavoidable sameness of the details of this part +of our journey; but I am in hopes that this very defect, though it +render the perusal of my journal still heavier, will assist in +conveying an accurate idea of the nature of the country; it is not +my fault if we met with no adventures, no hairbreadth escapes, or +perilous encounters. I must once more crave indulgence.</p> + +<p>The Affghān soldiers of our escort did not much relish the +discipline I enforced. A complaint was made to me in the course of +the day by a peasant, that these warriors had most unceremoniously +broken down hedges, and entering his apricot orchard, had commenced +appropriating the fruit, responding to his remonstrances with +threats and oaths. I thought this a fine opportunity to read my +savages a lecture on the advantages of discipline and regular pay. +I asked them whether they were not now much better off than when +employed by their own countrymen, and whether they expected to be +treated as regular soldiers, and still be allowed to plunder the +inoffensive inhabitants? One of the men, who was evidently an +orator, listened to me with more attention than the rest, but with +a look of evident impatience for the conclusion of my harangue, +that he too might show how well he could reason. "My lord," said +the man, putting himself into an attitude worthy of the +Conciliation-Hall, to say nothing of St. Stephen's, "my lord, on +the whole your speech is very excellent: your pay is +good––the best, no doubt, and very regular; we have not +hitherto been accustomed to such treatment; though you brought the +evil the remedy has come with it; your arrival in Cābul has so +raised the price of provisions that we could not live on +Affghān pay; we have, therefore, entered the service of the +foreigner; but had we received the same wages we now get from you, +we should in our own service have been gentlemen." Here the orator +made a pause, but soon imagining from my silence that his speech +was unobjectionable, he boldly continued; "but there is one +powerful argument in favour of the Ameer's service, <i>he</i> +always allowed us on the line of march to plunder from every one; +we have been brought up in this <i>principle(!!)</i> since we were +children, and we find it very difficult to refrain from what has so +long been an established practice amongst us: we are soldiers, sir, +and it is not much each man takes; but the British are so strict, +that they will protect a villager or even a stranger:" this last +sentence was evidently pronounced under a deep sense of unmerited +oppression. "But," continued he, "look at that apricot orchard on +the right, how ripe and tempting is the fruit; if we were not under +your orders, those trees would in a moment be as bare as the palm +of my hand." But I remarked, "would not the owners turn out and +have a fight; is it not better to go through a strange country +peaceably and making friends?" "<i>They</i> fight," answered my +hero; "oh! they are Uzbegs and no men, more like +women––one Affghan can beat three Uzbegs." I was not +quite satisfied how far the vaunted pay and discipline would +prevail over the natural lawless propensities of <i>my army</i>, +and in order not to try their insubordination too much, I conceived +that a compromise would be the wisest plan, and giving them a few +rupees, I desired them to make the most they could out of them. Off +they went highly delighted with the results of the interview, +clapping their orator on the back, crying out <i>shābash, +shābash, bravo, bravo</i>, and evidently believing the gift of +the rupees as entirely due to the eloquence of their comrade. They +are a simple people with all their savage characteristics, but it +is very sad to contemplate a whole nation as a race of systematic +plunderers.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the chief of Māther called to pay his +respects, bringing a present of fruit and sheep's milk; the latter +I found so palatable, that I constantly drank it afterwards; it is +considered very nutritious, and is a common beverage in +Toorkisthān, where the sheep are milked regularly three times +a day. Goats are very scarce, cows not to be seen, but the sheep's +milk affords nourishment in various forms, of which the most common +is a kind of sour cheese, being little better than curdled milk and +salt. Tea is also a favourite drink, but is taken without sugar or +milk; the former is too expensive for the poorer classes, and all +prefer it without the latter. Sometimes a mixture such as would +create dismay at an English tea-table is handed round, consisting +principally of tea-leaves, salt, and fat, like very weak and very +greasy soup, and to an European palate most nauseous. We could +never reconcile our ideas to its being a delicacy. Tea is to be +procured in all large towns hereabouts, of all qualities and at +every price; at Cābul the highest price for tea is £5 +sterling for a couple of pounds' weight; but this is of very rare +quality, and the leaf so fine and fragrant that a mere pinch +suffices a moderate party.</p> + +<p>What would our tea-drinking old ladies say for a few pounds of +that delicious treasure? This superfine leaf reaches Cabul from +China through Thibet, always maintaining its price; but it is +almost impossible to procure it unadulterated, as it is generally +mixed by the merchants with the lesser priced kind. The most +acceptable present which a traveller could offer in +Toorkisthān would be <i>fire-arms</i> or <i>tea</i>; the +latter is a luxury they indulge in to excess, taking it after every +meal; but they seldom are enabled to procure it without the lawless +assistance of the former.</p> + +<p>On leaving Māther we commenced the ascent of the Kara Kotul +or Black Pass, which lasted for seven long miles and was very +fatiguing. The large masses of rock on either side the pathway were +of a deep brown colour. From the length and steepness of the +ascent, this pass must be higher than any we had hitherto +surmounted; the descent on the other side is difficult in +proportion. The approach to Doaūb is through one of the most +romantic glens conceivable. It is here that the Koollum river takes +its rise; it flows due north and soon reaches a mountain meadow, +where it unites with another stream coming from the east, whence +the name of the Doaūb (two waters) is given to this district. +In this defile are scattered huge rocks, which have been dislodged +from the overhanging precipices by the effects of frost or +convulsions of the elements: in vain do these masses obstruct the +progress of the waters of this river. The torrent dashing in +cataracts over some of the large boulders and eddying round the +base of others, pursues an agitated course until it reaches the +desert, through which it glides more calmly, and combines with the +Oxus beyond Koollum, whence the confluent waters proceed +uninterruptedly to the sea of Aral.</p> + +<p>The banks of this river differ from those of the mountain +streams in general; they were decked with the most beautiful wild +flowers, which bloomed luxuriantly on the bushes, and growing from +the deep clefts in the rock, scented the air with their +perfume.</p> + +<p>The glen is here so filled with large blocks of granite, that to +accomplish our passage through it, it was necessary to transfer by +manual labour the loads of the baggage animals across the +obstructing masses: the difficulties we encountered, and more +particularly the romantic scene itself, are still imprinted on my +memory.</p> + +<p>The wind whistling round the jutting points, the dashing of the +waters, and the cries of one of the most timid of our followers, +who to save himself from wet feet had mounted an overladen pony, +and was now in imminent danger both of Scylla and Charybdis, added +to the interest of the picture; but, occasionally, the +reverberation caused by the fragments of rock, which, detaching +themselves from the upper regions, came tumbling down, not far from +where we stood, warned us not to dwell upon the spot. We took the +hint, and hastily extricating man and beast, though not until they +had experienced a severe ducking, we proceeded onwards to where the +waters enclose within their fertilizing arms the grassy fields of +the mountain Doaūb. Here it was that we caught the first +glimpse of the extensive plains where the Toorkmān mares are +turned out to graze; those in foal are left for several months; and +after foaling, the animals are put into smaller pastures provided +with enclosures, where they are shut up at night. The extent of the +larger savannahs is very great, some of them exceeding twenty +miles, and the horses that are allowed to range in them become so +shy, that their owners only can approach them, and the animals are +considered safe from depredators.</p> + +<p>As we gradually emerged from the hard bosom of the mountains, we +were struck with the simple beauty of this little garden of nature. +The vale is triangular, its greatest breadth being about five +miles; its whole extent is covered with a rich turf, intermingled +by just sufficient cultivated land as to supply the inhabitants +with grain. Every wild flower that enlivens our English meads grew +here luxuriantly, while the two streams crept along on either side +like silver threads bordering a jewelled carpet. This gay and +brilliant sight was enhanced by the lofty range of dark frowning +hills which encompassed it. It was worthy of being sung as the +"Loveliest vale in Toorkisthān."</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="X">X.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>I have already mentioned that we had received a letter to Shah +Pursund Khān, the chief of the Doaūb, who accordingly +came out to welcome us to his territory; he embraced us in the +Uzbeg fashion, telling us in eastern phraseology "to consider his +dominion as our own, and that we might command all he possessed." +After many compliments of this nature, he inquired with some +bluntness whither we were bound and what our object was? We +answered him, that we were proceeding to Koollum, and were anxious +to get as much information as he would be good enough to afford us +concerning so beautiful a portion of the globe, and we wished to +survey its particular features. "Mind," rejoined he, "that the +chief of Heibuk and the Meer Walli of Koollum are my enemies, and +may be yours." "If," answered Sturt, "we shall meet with the same +reception from them as we have hitherto enjoyed from all other +chiefs whose possessions we have had occasion to trespass upon +during our journeyings, we cannot complain of want of either +kindness or hospitality; for as travellers we come, and once eating +the 'salt of an Uzbeg,' we know that none would dishonour himself +by acting the traitor." "True," retorted the khān, "but he who +is your friend while in his dominions will rob you as soon as you +set your foot across his frontier." We were not much pleased at +this prospect, as we knew he spoke truth when declaring himself at +enmity with the surrounding chiefs, but "sufficient for the day is +the evil thereof," so we made up our minds to take what advantage +we could of his friendly disposition towards us, and trust to our +good fortune and the "chapter of accidents" for our future safety. +Shah Pursund Khān did not confine his kindness to words, for +he sent us an ample supply of flour and clarified butter for our +followers, grass and corn for our cattle, and a sheep for +ourselves; these sheep are of the Doomba species, with large tails +weighing several pounds, which are considered the most delicate +part of the animal. He also sent us from his harem an enormous dish +of foulādeh, made of wheat boiled to a jelly and strained, and +when eaten with sugar and milk palatable and nutritious.</p> + +<p>The following morning, as we were preparing to start, I happened +to enter into conversation with an aged moollah, the solitary +cicerone of the Doaūb, who gave us a brief but very +extraordinary account of a cavern about seven miles off; our +curiosity was so much excited by the marvellous details we heard, +that we determined to delay our departure for the purpose of +ascertaining how much of his story was due to the wild imagination +of our informant. We accordingly gave orders to unsaddle, and +communicated our intentions to the khan. At first he strongly urged +us not to put our plan into execution, declaring that the cave was +the domicile of the evil one, and that no stranger who had presumed +to intrude upon the privacy of the awful inhabitant had ever +returned to tell of what he had seen. It will easily be imagined +that these warnings only made us more determined upon visiting the +spot. At length, finding our resolution immovable, the khān, +much to our astonishment, declared that it was not from personal +fear, but from anxiety for our safety that he had endeavoured to +deter us, but that, as we were obstinate, he would at least afford +us the advantage of his protection, and accompany us, I confess we +were not sanguine in our expectations that he would keep his word, +and were not a little surprised to see him shortly after issue +forth from his fort fully armed, and accompanied by his principal +followers. We immediately made all necessary preparations, and +started on our visit to his satanic majesty.</p> + +<p>A bridle-path conducted us for some miles along the edge of a +gentle stream, whose banks were clothed with long luxuriant grass +extending on either side for a few hundred yards; we proceeded +rapidly at first, keeping our horses at a hand gallop, as the path +was smooth, and also to escape from the myriads of forest-flies or +blood-suckers which were perpetually hovering around us, and +irritating our cattle almost to madness whenever we were obliged to +slacken our pace; our tormentors, however, did not pursue us beyond +the limits of the pasture land, so that we were glad to exchange +the beauties of the prairie for the stony barren ground which +succeeded it. We soon reached the base of a hill from whence the +wished-for cavern was visible, situated about half-way up its face. +We were now obliged to dismount, and leaving our horses under the +charge of an Uzbeg, who could hardly conceal his delight at being +selected for the least dangerous duty, we commenced the ascent.</p> + +<p>During our ride I had endeavoured to gather a few more +particulars concerning the dreaded cavern, and as might have been +expected, the anticipated horrors dwindled away considerably as we +approached it; still enough of the marvellous remained to keep my +curiosity on the stretch. Shah Pursund Khān confessed that he +was not positive that the devil actually lived there, but still, he +said, it was very probable; he had first heard of the existence of +the cave when he obtained possession of the Doāub twelve years +ago, from the very moollah who was our informant. Urged by a +curiosity similar to our own, he had ventured some little distance +inside, but suddenly he came upon the print of a naked foot, and +beside it another extraordinary impression, which he suspected to +be from the foot of sheittan (the devil) himself; quite satisfied +that he had gone far enough, he retreated precipitately, and from +that day to this had never intruded again. He argued that any +<i>human</i> being living in the cave would require sustenance, and +of course would purchase it at his fort, which was the only one +where the necessaries of life could be procured for many miles +around; but he knew every one who came to him, and no stranger had +ever come on such an errand; he therefore concluded with an +appealing look to the moollah who was with us. The moollah, +however, had a tale of his own to tell, and seemed to have no great +respect for the superstitious fears of his patron. "The name of the +cavern is Yeermālik, and the fact of the matter is this," said +he, settling himself in his saddle for a long story. "In the time +of the invasion, six hundred years ago, of Genghis Khān the +Tartar, seven hundred men of the Huzareh tribe, with their wives +and families and a stock of provisions, took possession of this +cavern, hoping to escape the fury of the ruthless invader, and +never stirred beyond its mouth. But the cruel Genghis, after +wasting the country with fire and sword, set on foot a strict +search for such of the unfortunate inhabitants as had fled from his +tyranny. His bloodhounds soon scented the wretched Huzarehs, and a +strong party was sent to drive them from their place of refuge. But +despair lent to the besieged a courage which was not the +characteristic of their tribe, and knowing that, if taken alive, a +lingering torture and cruel death would be their fate, they +resolved to make good their defence at every hazard. The mouth of +the cave was small, and no sooner did the invaders rush in than +they were cut down by those inside; in vain were more men thrust in +to take the place of those slain; the advantages of position were +too great, and they were obliged at length to desist. But Genghis +was not to be balked of his victims, and his devilish cunning +suggested the expedient of lighting straw at the mouth of the cave +to suffocate those inside, but the size of the place prevented his +plan from taking effect; so he at last commanded a large fragment +of rock to be rolled to the mouth of the cavern, adding another as +a support, and having thus effectually barred their exit, he +cruelly abandoned them to their fate. Of course the whole party +suffered a miserable death, and it is perhaps the spirits of the +murdered men that, wandering about and haunting it, have given a +suspicious character to the place; but," concluded he, rather +dogmatically, "the devil <i>does not</i> live there +now––it is too cold!!"[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Those who have been familiarized to +the atrocities perpetrated by the French in Algeria will not feel +the horror that the moollah's tale would otherwise have excited; +the similarity of these outrages to humanity is so striking, that I +quote a passage extracted from the French paper, "The National," +which will speak for itself.</p> + +<blockquote>"The National gives a frightful picture of Marshal +Bugeaud's doings in Africa. According to the accounts published by +this paper, fifty prisoners were one day shot in cold +blood––thirteen villages burned––the Dahra +massacre acted over again, for it appears that a portion of a tribe +having hid themselves in a cave, the same means were resorted to +exactly as those employed by Colonel Pelissier, and all smoked and +baked to death. The Marshal himself is the author of all these +horrors––his last triumph was a monster +razzia––he has ordered the most strict secresy as to +his barbarous proceedings; and the writer of the accounts calls him +a second Attila, for he puts all to the sword and fire, sparing +only women and children."]</blockquote> + +<p>After scrambling over loose stones, climbing up precipices, and +crawling round the projecting rocks, which consumed an hour, we +found ourselves on a small ledge in front of the outer aperture, +which was nearly circular and about fifty feet high. We were now in +a cavern apparently of no great extent, and as I could not discover +any other passage, I began to fancy that it was for this paltry +hole we had undergone so much fatigue, and had had our expectations +raised so high. I was about to give utterance to my disappointment, +when I perceived the Uzbegs preparing their torches and arranging +the line of march, in which it seemed that no one was anxious to +take precedence. I now began to look about me, in the hope that +there was something more to be seen, and was delighted to observe +one adventurous hero with a torch disappear behind some masses of +rock. We all followed our leader, and it was with great difficulty +that, one by one, we managed to squeeze ourselves through a narrow +gap between two jagged rocks, which I presume I am to consider as +the identical ones that were rolled to the mouth six hundred years +ago at the stern command of the Tartar Attila.</p> + +<p>I confess that hitherto I had treated the moollah's account as +an idle tale; my unbelief, however, was quickly removed, for just +as we entered the narrow passage the light of the torches was for +an instant thrown upon a group of human skeletons. I saw them but +for an instant, and the sight was quite sufficient to raise my +drooping curiosity to its former <a name= +"Outer_Cave_of_Yeermallik">pitch.</a></p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Outer Cave, Yeermallix"> +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td><img src="images/yeermallix2.png" width="649" height="498" alt="Outer Cave, Yeermallix" border="0" /></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="85%">View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, +shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + <br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XI">XI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>We proceeded down the sloping shaft, occasionally bruising +ourselves against its jagged sides, until our leader suddenly came +to a dead halt. I was next to him, and coming up as close as I +could, I found that one step further would have precipitated the +adventurous guide into an abyss, the bottom and sides of which were +undistinguishable; after gazing for a moment into this apparently +insurmountable obstacle to our further progress, I could just +perceive a narrow ledge about sixteen feet below me, that the eye +could trace for a few yards only, beyond which it was lost in the +deep gloom surrounding us. Our conductor had already made up his +mind what to do: he proceeded to unwind his long narrow turban +composed of cotton cloth, and called to his comrades to do the +same; by joining these together they formed a kind of rope by means +of which we gradually lowered each other, till at last a party ten +in number were safely landed on the ledge. We left a couple of men +to haul us up on our return, and proceeded on our way, groping +along the brink of the yawning chasm. Every now and then loose +stones set in motion by our feet would slip into this bottomless +pit, and we could hear them bounding down from ledge to ledge, +smashing themselves into a thousand fragments, till the echoes so +often repeated were like the independent file-firing of a battalion +of infantry. Sometimes the narrow path would be covered for a +distance of many feet with a smooth coat of ice, and then it was +indeed dangerous. After moving on in this way for some minutes, the +road gradually widened till we found ourselves on the damp and +dripping flooring of a chamber of unknown dimensions; the torch +light was not strong enough to enable us to conceive the size of +this subterraneous hall, but all around us lay scattered melancholy +proofs that there was some sad foundation for the moollah's story. +Hundreds of human skeletons were strewed around; as far as the eye +could penetrate these mournful relics presented themselves; they +were very perfect, and had evidently not been disturbed since +death; some had more the appearance of the shrivelled-up remains +which we find in the Morgue on the road to the Grand St. Bernard, +and lay about us in all the varied positions induced by their +miserable fate. Here, it seemed that a group had, while sufficient +strength yet remained, huddled themselves together, as if to keep +up the vital warmth of which death so slowly and yet so surely was +depriving them; a little farther on was a figure in a sitting +posture, with two infants still clasped in its bony arms; and then +again the eye would fall upon some solitary figure with +outstretched limbs, as if courting that death which on the instant +responded to the call. Involuntarily my thoughts recurred to +Dante's beautiful description of the Comte Ugolino's children and +their piteous end in the Torre della Fame––but here, a +sickening sense of the dreadful reality of the horrors, which it +was evident from these mute memorials of man's cruelty to his +fellow had been endured, quite oppressed me, and I wished I had +never visited the spot. I felt myself so much harrowed by this sad +scene, that I endeavoured to distract my attention; but what was my +astonishment when my eye fell upon the print of a human naked foot, +and beside it the distinct mark of the pointed heel of the +Affghān boot!––I hope my reader will give me +credit for truth––I can assure him that it was some +time before I could believe my own eyes, though I considered that +the result of our explorations would explain in part the sight, +which appeared to me so extraordinary, and which tallied so +strangely with the footprints which had frightened Shah Pursund +Khan twelve years ago. I was still absorbed in reflections of no +very gay colour, when one of the attendants warned me that if I +staid all day amongst the "dead people," there would not be +sufficient oil to feed the torches, and we should be unable to +visit the Ice Caves. I was immediately roused, and proceeded +onwards with the party through several low arches and smaller +caves,––suddenly a strange glare spread itself about +me, and after a few more steps a magnificent spectacle presented +itself. In the centre of a large cave stood an enormous mass of +clear ice, smooth and polished as a mirror, and in the form of a +gigantic beehive, with its dome-shaped top just touching the long +icicles which depended from the jagged surface of the rock. A small +aperture led to the interior of this wonderful congelation, the +walls of which were nearly two feet thick––the floor, +sides, and roof were smooth and slippery, and our figures were +reflected from floor to ceiling and from side to side in endless +repetition. The inside of this chilly abode was divided into +several compartments of every fantastic shape; in some the +glittering icicles hung like curtains from the roof; in others the +vault was smooth as glass. Beautifully brilliant were the prismatic +colours reflected from the varied surface of the ice, when the +torches flashed suddenly upon them as we passed from cave to cave. +Around, above, beneath, every thing was of solid ice, and being +unable to stand on account of its slippery nature, we slid or +rather glided mysteriously along the glassy surface of this hall of +spells. In one of the largest compartments the icicles had reached +the floor, and gave the idea of pillars supporting the roof. +Altogether the sight was to me as novel as it was magnificent, and +I only regret that my powers of description are inadequate to do +justice to what I <a name="Ice_Caves">saw.</a></p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td width="40%"><img src="images/toorkisthan114.jpg" width="325" +height="474" alt="View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik" border="0" /> +</td> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="40%">View of the Ice Caves<br /> +in the Cavern of Yeermallik<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<p>After wandering for some time amongst these extraordinary +chambers, we proceeded further to examine the nature of the caverns +in which they were formed: these seemed to branch out into +innumerable galleries, which again intersected each other. +Sometimes they expanded into halls, the dimensions of which our +feeble light prevented us from calculating, and anon they +contracted into narrow passages, so low that we were obliged to +creep along them on our hands and knees. Our party had just emerged +from one of these defiles and were standing together on a kind of +sloping platform, at which point the declivity seemed to become +more precipitous as it receded from our sight, when our attention +was suddenly arrested by the reappearance of the mysterious naked +footprints which I had before observed in the chamber of skeletons. +I examined them minutely, and am certain from the spread of the +toes that they belonged to some one who was in the habit of going +barefoot. I took a torch, and determined to trace them as far as I +could. Had I met with these prints in the open air, I should have +decided upon their being quite fresh, but the even temperature and +stillness of atmosphere which reigned in these strange regions +might account for the tracks retaining that sharpness of outline +which denotes a recent impression. The direction I took led me +immediately down the slope I have just mentioned, and its +increasing steepness caused me some misgivings as to how I should +get back, when suddenly a large stone on which I had rested my foot +gave way beneath my weight, and down I came, extinguishing my torch +in my fall. Luckily I managed to stop myself from rolling down the +fearful chasm which yawned beneath, but the heavy rounded fragment +of rock rolled onwards, first with a harsh grating sound, as if it +reluctantly quitted its resting place, then, gradually acquiring +impetus, down it thundered, striking against other rocks and +dragging them on with it, till the loud echoes repeated a thousand +times from the distant caves mingling with the original sound +raised a tumult of noise quite sufficient to scare a braver crew +than our party consisted of. The effect of my mishap was +instantaneous. Our followers raised an universal shout of +Sheitān, Sheitān, (the devil, the devil,) and rushed +helter skelter back from the direction of the sound. In the +confusion all the torches carried by the natives were extinguished, +and had not my friend Sturt displayed the most perfect coolness and +self-possession, we should have been in an alarming predicament; +for he (uninfluenced by any such supernatural fears as had been +excited amongst the runaways by the infernal turmoil produced by my +unlucky foot, and though himself ignorant of the cause of it from +having been intent upon the footmarks when I slipped), remained +perfectly unmoved with his torch, the only one still burning, +raised high above his head, waiting patiently till the panic should +subside. Order was at length restored in some degree, but the +thirst of enterprise was cooled, and the natives loudly declared +they would follow the devil no farther, and that we must return +forthwith. Shah Pursund Khān, who was just as great a coward +as the rest, declared it was no use following the track any more, +for it was well known the cavern extended to Cabul!!! Finding it +useless endeavouring to revive the broken spirits of these cravens, +we reluctantly commenced a retrograde movement, and I was obliged +to remain in lasting ignorance of the nature of the mysterious +origin of the footprint.</p> + +<p>We had considerable difficulty in finding our way back to the +ice rooms; the fears of our followers had now completely got the +better of them; they lost their presence of mind, and, +consequently, their way; and it was not till after we had wandered +about for more than an hour that we hit upon the ledge which +eventually led us to the drop which we had originally descended by +means of the ladder of turbans. At the head of this drop we had +left a couple of men to haul us up; as soon as they perceived the +light of our expiring torches, they called out loudly to us to make +haste and get out of the place, for they had seen the +<i>Sheitān</i>, about an hour ago, run along the ledge beneath +them, and disappear in the gloom beyond. This information raised +the terror of the poor natives to a climax; all made a rush for the +rope of turbans, and four or five having clutched hold of it, were +in the act of dragging down turban, men, and torches upon our +devoted heads, when Sturt interfered, and by his firm +remonstrances, aided by the timely fall of a few well-aimed stones +upon the heads of the crew, made them relax their grasp and ascend +one by one.</p> + +<p>The chief, being the lightest, claimed the privilege of being +drawn up first, which was readily agreed to; and so in succession +each when he had mounted assisted in drawing up his companions, +till at last we were all safely landed at the top, out of the reach +of <i>any ordinary sized</i> devil. We soon emerged into the open +air, covered with dust from head to foot like Indian Faqueers, +after having been for nearly four hours wandering in the bowels of +the earth. Our followers soon regained their courage now that the +danger was past, and each in turn began to boast of his own valour +and sneer at the pusillanimity of his comrade; but all agreed that +nothing on earth or in heaven should ever tempt them again to visit +the ice-caves of Yeermallick.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XII">XII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 13th of July we bade adieu to our friend Shah Pursund +Khān, who accompanied us a short distance on our way, after in +vain endeavouring to induce us to remain with him for some time +longer, this we could not accede to, but promised, if our time +permitted, to pay him a lengthened visit on our return. We had a +long march this day, the distance being nearly eighteen miles; but +our beasts of burden were much the better for their day's halt, +and, the greater part of the road being a descent, we reached +Rhoeh, where we pitched our tents, in very good time. The first few +miles were along the delightful valley of the Doaub, which we +reluctantly quitted, and after crossing a low ridge descended +through broken country till we reached the foot of the hills, where +I observed for the first time a genuine Tartar krail, composed of a +number of small black blanket tents fastened to a kind of wattle. +In the plain of Rhoeh is a small mud fort in a dilapidated state, +and uninhabited; the village itself was not of any importance, the +habits of the people being evidently migratory.</p> + +<p>The Jerboa is a native of this country as well as the steppes of +Tartary, where it is most commonly found in the shrubless plains; +in form it is a miniature of the kangaroo, to which in some of its +peculiarities it bears a close resemblance, though in size it is +very little larger than our common English rat. The name of the +"Vaulting Rat," by which it is known among naturalists, is very +applicable. These little animals burrow deeply in the ground, and +the method of dislodging them adopted by us was the pouring a +quantity of water into their holes, which causes them to rush out +at another aperture, when they commence leaping about in a +surprising manner until they observe another burrow and instantly +disappear. If chased, they spring from the hind quarters, darting +about here and there, and affording great amusement to the +pursuers. It is difficult to hold them, as they are rarely grasped +without losing a portion of their long and beautiful tails. The +forelegs are much shorter than the hind ones, the ears are very +large and silky, and the eye surpassingly black and brilliant. It +is a harmless animal, and no doubt when tamed would be perfectly +domesticated.</p> + +<p>Nothing of interest occurred either this day or the next, which +brought us, after another dreary march of seventeen miles, to the +fort and village of Koorrum. For nearly the whole distance between +Rhoeh and Koorrum not a drop of water is procurable; as we had not +provided against this contingency, we suffered in proportion. +Altogether this part of the road offers considerable obstacles to +the progress of an army, from its numerous ravines and steep though +short ascents and descents, which would be very difficult for +artillery; I should, from a cursory glance at the country, imagine +that these steep pitches might be avoided by a more circuitous +route, though the one we pursued was the beaten track for the +caravans, and they generally find out the most convenient passage. +The approach to Koorrum was pretty, but the scenery was of a +character with which we were now so familiar that its peculiar +beauties did not perhaps impress us as much as when they afforded +the additional charm of novelty. A succession of walnut, apricot, +mulberry, and apple trees shaded our path, which lay through +extensive orchards, carpeted with beautiful turf. The vines clung +to the sycamore trees; and where the spade had been at work, corn +and artificial grasses grew in abundance. Our next halting place +was Sarbagh, where we arrived on the 15th, after marching through a +pleasant and fruitful valley, flanked by parallel belts of mountain +land, the agreeable verdure relieving the eye from the barrenness +of this, I may call it, parietal range. The ornamental trees which +fringe the banks of the Koollum river, as it gracefully pursues its +course to the Oxus, had altogether a very picturesque +appearance.</p> + +<p>The son of Baber Beg, the chief of Heibuk, was at this time +residing at Sarbagh, and shewed us every possible attention, +sending us sheep, fowls, corn, flour, fruit, and every article +required for about seventy people. It was very gratifying to us to +find that we were treated by the Uzbeg chiefs in so friendly a +manner, as we had some misgivings lest our being unprovided with +any letters from influential men in Cābul, might create +unfavourable surmises amongst a half-savage and naturally +suspicious race. Doubtless we gained a large portion of attention +and civility from the idea which pervaded all our hosts that we +were great hakeems, <i>physicians</i>, and if we chose, could +relieve the human body from every illness whether real or +imaginary––and I was glad to remark that the latter +class of ailment was by far the most common. Still, some diseases +were very prevalent, particularly those which may be considered as +induced by a total absence of cleanliness. Sore eyes were very +common here, as in Affghanistān, and our powers and medicine +chest were sometimes rather too severely taxed by importunate +applicants, who never would apply the remedy in the manner +described, unless it was administered upon principles which they +understood, and which was in accordance with their own reasoning. +In Cābul, the medical officers were the only class of +Europeans allowed an entrance to the harems of the rich, when they +were expected after feeling the pulse of some Cashmerian beauty to +pronounce her malady, and effect her cure forthwith. The lords of +the creation too, debilitated from early dissipation or a life of +debauchery, sued for remedies and charms, which, alas! are only to +be found in the hundredth edition of a work known by its mysterious +advertisement in the columns of a London newspaper.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, after a long march of twenty-two miles, we +approached Heibuk through the same kind of scenery as the preceding +day; on rounding a projecting ledge of rock we saw that fortress in +the distance, on an insulated eminence adjacent to a low range of +hills. Meer Baber Beg has placed his fortress in a very respectable +state of defence, quite adequate to repel the desultory inroads of +his predatory neighbours; but commanded by and exposed to enfilade +from the hills about it, on one of these hills he has built a tower +as a kind of outwork, but it is very weak and of insignificant +size.</p> + +<p>The only thing worth seeing near Heibuk is the Tukt-i-Rustum or +Throne of Hercules, which we accordingly visited, and found it to +be a fortification of no very great extent on a most uncommon +principle, and of unknown date. The best idea I can convey to the +reader of its shape, is by begging him to cut an orange in half, +and place its flat surface in a saucer; he will then have a +tolerable model of the Tukt-i-Rustum. We entered by a narrow +gallery piercing through the solid mass of rock which forms the +outer wall or saucer, and leading by an irregular flight of steps +to the summit of the orange. I instituted many enquiries concerning +the origin of this place, but I could obtain no information; not +even a legend beyond that it was holy. We were accompanied by one +of the chief's sons, a fat jolly youth of about four-and-twenty, +with a countenance that was a type of his good +humour––he sat with us for some time whilst we were at +our toilette, but affected to be somewhat shocked at the very +scanty clothing which we considered sufficient while our Bheesties +poured the contents of their mussocks[*] over us. It was rather +amusing to hear the remarks of the bystanders, who seemed to view +cleanliness as a consideration very secondary to etiquette. It +would have been fortunate for us if I could have persuaded our +criticising friends to try on their own persons the advantage of a +dash of fresh water, for they were without exception the most +filthy race it has ever been my misfortune to meet; their garments +teem with life, and sometimes, after merely sitting on the same rug +placed to receive visitors, I have been under the necessity of +making a fresh toilette.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Skins of water.]</p> + +<p>Meer Baber Beg was a great man in these parts, and kindly sent +us three sheep, with fowls, flour, fruits, and grain in abundance, +intimating, at the same time, his intention to pay us a visit in +the evening. He came accordingly, and favoured us with his presence +for a considerable time. He seemed an intelligent man, but in a +very infirm state of health, and quite crippled from rheumatism. +One would hardly have supposed, while admiring his pleasing +features, which expressed so much benignity, that when on the +throne of Koollum he had been such a bloody tyrant; yet such was +the case;––though the hereditary ruler of Koollum and +its dependencies, he had by his brutality made himself so +obnoxious, that he was deposed by his own subjects headed by his +younger brother, and dare not now shew his face on his paternal +estate.</p> + +<p>This corpulent son whom I have before mentioned brought a +double-barrelled percussion gun for my inspection, and requested +that I would test its qualities on some pigeons that were flying +about; I was fortunate enough to bring down a couple on the wing, +but was somewhat mortified to find that the burst of admiration +which followed my feat was entirely confined to the weapon, which, +together with the donor, Dr. Lord, was praised to the skies, whilst +no kind of credit was given to my skill in using it.</p> + +<p>We halted at Heibuk on the 17th, as the Meer requested we would +stay a day with him before putting ourselves in the power of the +dreaded Meer Walli of Koollum. At first he endeavoured to persuade +us to abandon our project of proceeding further, but, finding us +determined, he contented himself with relating every possible story +he could remember or invent concerning the many acts of cruel +treachery which the Meer Walli had perpetrated, and concluded by an +eulogium on his own manifold virtues.</p> + +<p>During the course of the day a Hindoo from Peshawur peeped +cautiously into my tent, and, on my inquiring his business, he +approached, and with many salaams, laid a bag of money at my feet; +rather astonished at so unusual an offering, I requested to know +the cause of this act of generosity, and I was informed that it was +a "first offering," or, in other words, a bribe to propitiate me, +in the hope that I would use my influence to get the Hindoo out of +the clutches of Meer Baber Beg. The story he told me was, that some +years back he came to Heibuk to trade, and having made a little +money was packing up his property preparatory to his departure, +when he was suddenly ordered into the Meer's presence. "Friend," +said this benign ruler, "stay here a little longer; it is not right +that, having made a sum of money in my country, you should spend it +in your own." Since then, he added, he had been ill-treated and +robbed several times to satisfy the rapacity of this wicked +monster; and then, as if frightened at his own expressions, he +peered cautiously round the tent, apparently fancying the Meer +himself would start from behind the screen to punish him for his +audacity. I returned him his 250 rupees, but told him if his story +were true I would use what little influence I possessed to procure +his release. When Baber Beg came to pay us his evening visit I +broached the subject, and requested as a favour that the Hindoo +might be permitted to accompany our party as a guide and +interpreter. "If you will take my advice," said he, "you will have +nothing to say to the scoundrel, who will come to a bad end: he has +been deceiving you; but if, after my warning, you still wish to +have him as a guide, take him by all means."</p> + +<p>Accordingly I took him, but in justice to the Meer's +discrimination of character it must be owned that my +protegé, as soon as he considered himself safe from the +Meer's indignation, proved himself to the full as great a scoundrel +as he had been represented. The following morning, before taking +our departure, Start presented to the Meer's youngest son a +handsome pair of percussion pistols, for which the father seemed so +very grateful that I could not help suspecting he intended to +appropriate them to his own use as soon as we were well away.</p> + +<p>On leaving the fortress of Heibuk we passed through a very +extensive cultivated district, the principal produce being the +grain which in Hindoostan is called jowār. The remaining +portion of our journey to Hazree Sooltān, which was a distance +of eighteen miles, was nothing but a barren waste with occasional +patches of low jungle. We were now evidently on the farthest spur +of the Hindoo Khoosh; the hills were low and detached, gradually +uniting into the endless plain which bounded the horizon to the +north and west. On the road we met a messenger who was on his way +to Sir Alexander Burnes at Kābul, having come from Bokhara, +bearing a letter from the <i>Vakeel</i>, or native ambassador, whom +Sir Alexander had sent some time back to endeavour, by persuasion +or stratagem, to effect the release of our unfortunate countryman, +Col. Stoddart. The courier, who had received the account from the +Vakeel, whether true or false he could not inform us, stated "that +Col. Stoddart accompanied the Persian army to Herāt, and +finding they could not make the desired impression on the walls, +raised the siege, and the Colonel left the army and proceeded +across to Bokhara, whether to endeavour to effect the release of +the Russian slaves, (there being many in the dominions of the +Bokhara King,) or merely for amusement, he could not say; but that +the latter was the generally received opinion. On approaching the +city of the tyrant king he met a man riding furiously away with a +woman, and as she passed, called out to the Colonel Amaun, Amaun! +mercy, mercy! whereupon he immediately galloped up to the ravisher, +and securing the deliverance of the woman, told her to keep under +his protection until he entered the city. +On the first day after his arrival the King passed as the +Colonel was riding on horseback, and although the latter gave the +salute usual in his own country, it did not satisfy the ruler; +moreover, he, the Feringhi, was on horseback without permission, +and therefore the Khan ordered him the following day into his +presence. Messengers the next morning were sent, who abruptly +entered the Colonel's house, and finding he would not willingly +submit, dragged him before their chief. He was asked, why he had +infringed the customs of the country by riding on horseback in the +city, and why he did not pay the recognised submission to the ruler +of a free country? The reply was, that the same compliment had been +paid to the King of Bokhara as was customary in Europe to a crowned +head. And why have you presumed to ride on horseback within the +city walls, where no Feringhi is allowed? Because I was ignorant of +the custom. It's a lie; my messengers ordered you to dismount and +you would not. 'Tis true, they did order me and I did not, but I +thought they were doing more than their duty. After this the King +ordered him into confinement, where he now is."</p> + +<p>The courier, after giving us this information, remarked that he +was penniless, and that as his business concerned the safety of a +countryman, he hoped we would assist him. Though we were not quite +satisfied with the man's story, we stood the chance of its being +true, and furnished him with funds for the prosecution of his +journey, for which, on our return to Cabul, we were kindly thanked +by Sir Alexander, who informed us that the note from the Vakeel +conveyed the intelligence of the failure of his endeavours, and +that he had himself been put in confinement.</p> + +<p>At the time of which I am writing both Dost Mahommed Khān +and his notorious son Akbar were prisoners at Bokhara; but the +means taken by <i>their</i> friends to release them were more +successful than those adopted by our politicals at Cabul. It +appears that the chief at Shere Subz had for some time been at +enmity with his Bokhara neighbour, and, wishing to do Dost Mahommed +a good turn, he picked out fifty of the most expert thieves in his +dominions––a difficult selection where the claims of +all to this bad preeminence were so strong––but the +Shere Subz chief was from experience a tolerable judge of the +qualifications of an expert rogue, and having pitched upon his men, +he promised them valuable presents, provided they effected, by +whatever means they might choose to adopt, the release of the Dost; +hinting at the same time that if they failed he should be under the +necessity of seizing and selling their families. The thieves were +successful, and at the expiration of a month the Dost was free.</p> + +<p>If we could have interested the chief of Shere Subz in our +favour by presents and fair words, might not the same means have +been employed for the rescue of poor Stoddart? The only way to deal +with a ruffian like him of Bokhara would have been by pitting +against him some of his own stamp.</p> + +<p>The King of Bokhara has several times endeavoured to coerce the +Shere Subz's chief, but the instant a hostile force appears on his +frontiers, the latter causes the whole of his country to be +inundated, so that the invader is obliged to retire, and is by this +stratagem kept at a respectful distance.</p> + +<p>Another traveller came across us this day, who had resided for +some years at Kokān, and furnished us with some account of the +nature of the Chinese garrison of that fort. It is situated on an +isolated rock, and every five years relieved with men, provisions, +and ammunition; the flanks of the bastions are armed with ponderous +wall pieces, requiring three men to work them. Chambers are also +bored in the live rock, from whence enormous masses of stone might +be discharged on an assailing foe. The Kokānese have often +attempted to dislodge the intruders, but owing to the good state of +defence in which the fort is kept, and the strong escorts under +which the reliefs are regularly forwarded, they have been always +repulsed with severe loss. My informant had been in the service of +the Kokānese, and was now on his way to Hindoostan; in +military notions he must have been of the famous Captain Dugald +Dalgetty's school, for I afterwards met him as a non-commissioned +officer in Shah Seujah's Goorkah battalion.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIII">XIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>A march of eighteen miles brought us on the 19th July to +Koollum. The road continued along the banks of the river, through a +wide valley bounded by low distant hills for nearly the whole way. +Towards the end of our journey a spur from these hills struck right +across the direction of the river, which had forced for itself a +passage through the obstacle without deviating much from its +rectilinear course, but considerably disturbing its previously +placid character, for here it rushed with impetuous violence +through the narrow cleft which it had formed, through this, the +most advanced outpost of the glorious range of the Hindoo Khoosh. +The defile, though short, was difficult of access and capable of +being long defended; there is a small tower about the centre, +slightly removed from and commanding the road: but a mere handfull +of troops stationed on the crags above could, by hurling down the +loosened masses of rock which totter on the edge of the cliff, for +a time effectually stop the progress of a hostile army from either +side. I should imagine, however, that this as well as every other +pass I have ever seen except the Khyber and Bolun would be more +easily turned than forced. On emerging from this last defile, a +prospect presents itself strongly contrasting with the romantic +scenery we had recently been witnessing. Immediately before us lay +the populous city of Koollum, the fortress standing on a small +isolated eminence, and the dome-shaped houses embosomed in the deep +foliage of their gardens and orchards clustered round it for miles +on every side. Immediately on the outskirts of the city the desert +commences, which, stretching away to Bokhara as far as the eye +could reach, formed a melancholy and uninviting background to the +busy scene before us. As we approached the city, we had our +misgivings as to the nature of our reception by the Meer Walli, as, +contrary to the treatment we had invariably experienced from the +chiefs of all the considerable places through which we had had +occasion to pass since entering Toorkisthān, no one appeared +on the part of the Meer to welcome us. At length, after wandering +about the suburbs for more than an hour, followed by a crowd of +gaping idlers who seemed half disposed to question our right of +<i>squatting</i>, we selected an open space and commenced unloading +our baggage animals, and prepared to establish <a name= +"Koollum">ourselves.</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - View of Koollum, from the eastward"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td width="40%"><img src="images/toorkistan139.gif" width="500" height="300" alt="View of Koollum, from the eastward" border="0" /> +</td> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="40%">View of Koollum, from the +eastward.<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by J. Cowell Esq!!<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<p>Our spirits were raised, however, soon after, by the welcome +arrival of an officer of the Meer's household, who was sent by his +master to convey us to the caravanserai, where, after a short +period, we received three or four sheep with fruit and other +provisions of all descriptions, which supply was regularly +continued during the whole time we remained at Koollum. Our +uneasiness, thus quieted, was soon entirely dispelled by a message +announcing that a visit from the great man himself would take place +in the evening. We must have been rather difficult to please, +however, on this particular day, for after the wished-for visit was +over, we both agreed that it had been dreadfully tiresome; to be +sure, as fate would have it, we had not had time to eat our dinner +before his arrival, and etiquette obliged us to defer eating till +after his departure, which did not release us till past midnight, +though he made his appearance soon after eight o'clock.</p> + +<p>In person the Meer Walli was certainly very prepossessing; his +voice was peculiarly musical, and his manner gentlemanly and easy; +his face would have been eminently handsome but for a dreadful +wound by which he had lost a portion of his nose. At this our first +interview nothing relative to our own future proceedings was +discussed, though that was the subject uppermost in our own minds, +as we could not but feel ourselves entirely at the mercy of a +robber prince of notorious character. As it was, the conversation +was made up of those compliments and common-places with which the +Orientals know so well how to fill up "awkward pauses," when, for +reasons of their own, they do not intend talking upon the real +business. He very politely acceded to our request of visiting the +bazaar the following morning, which being market-day, the influx of +strangers from the Tartar encampments at the different oases of the +Bokhara Desert, and country people from the Toorkisthān +mountains, was very great. One of his household was always in +attendance as we passed out of the gate of the caravanserai, where +we lodged, to conduct us about, and act in the double capacity of +spy and cicerone. The city was crowded, and our appearance excited +considerable sensation––much more so in truth than was +pleasant, for we were followed wherever we went by a very curious +and a very dirty crowd. We had heard a good deal about the +Mahommedan college at Koollum, and of course were very anxious to +see what comparison existed between it and our own colleges: we +could trace none beyond the term of college. The house itself was +new and capacious, with clean-looking apartments for the scholars. +We entered the halls of study, which were long narrow verandahs, +and found several white-bearded and sagacious-looking Moollahs +reading out portions of the Korān to their attentive scholars, +with a grave countenance and a loud nasal twang, exciting a +propensity to laughter which I with difficulty repressed. I do not +think the reasoning of the college is very deep, or that the +talents of its senior wrangler need be very first-rate, and am +inclined to suspect that this pompous reading was got up for the +occasion for the purpose of astonishing the weak intellects of the +Feringhee strangers.</p> + +<p>From the college we proceeded to the slave market, which was +well furnished, and chiefly supplied from the ever victimized +Huzarehs; the women were generally ill-favoured, but all appeared +contented with their lot so that <i>somebody</i> purchased them. +After making the tour of the city in search of wonders, we returned +home, hot, wearied, and disappointed, for we had found nothing to +repay us for the annoyances we had been subjected to from the +impertinent curiosity of the filthy multitude. Our own intentions +were to get away from Koollum in order to be able to reach Balkh +and return to Cābul before the cold weather should set in; but +alas! our wishes were not destined to be fulfilled. Our uneasiness +concerning the real intentions of the Meer was again excited +towards the evening, for one of our followers came to us almost +frantic with terror, stammering out as soon as his nervous state +permitted him to speak, that he had heard it stated as a notorious +fact that we were all to be detained at Koollum––that +such was the pleasure of the Meer. The reader will believe that +this intelligence was any thing but satisfactory; I could not help +conjuring up visions of a long and wearisome +captivity––of hope deferred and expectations +disappointed––with Stoddart's melancholy situation as a +near precedent. I managed to make myself for a short time as +thoroughly uncomfortable as if I were already a prisoner, but soon +a sense of the great foolishness of indulging in this tone of +thought came over me, and making a strong effort to shake off the +gloomy shadows of an imaginary future, I betook myself to consider +the best means of ascertaining, in the first instance, the truth of +the report, which if I had done so at once would have saved me a +good deal of painful thought. As a preliminary step I desired a +couple of our Affghān escort to proceed, so as not to excite +suspicion, to the bourj or <i>watch tower</i> in the centre of the +defile by which we had approached Koollum, and through which our +only retreat must have been, to ascertain if the post was occupied +by any of the Meer's people. They soon brought us the satisfactory +intelligence that not a man was to be seen; but the Affghāns +qualified their information by persisting in their opinion that +some treachery was intended. So strong was this feeling amongst our +men that it became imperatively necessary that our doubts should be +resolved into certainty one way or the other, and Sturt and I, +after a short consultation, determined that at the interview which +was to take place next morning we should put the question to the +chief categorically. Having come to this conclusion, we were +obliged to smoke the "pipe of patience" on the "couch of +uncertainty" till the Meer Walli arrived.</p> + +<p>The Meer made his appearance the following morning, and, after +the usual compliments, to our great astonishment himself touched on +the subject. "I have heard," said he, "that you have sent out spies +to see if the Bourj in the defile is occupied, and if any of my +people are abroad to restrain your movements." This was rather an +ominous commencement: "but," continued the old gentleman, "if such +had been my intention, could I not have put the whole of you into +confinement the moment you arrived? At all events, what could you +and your party do against my force?" Sturt glanced his eye at the +speaker; for an instant, too, it rested on me, as if to read my +opinion; then he boldly answered, "You may outnumber us by +thousands, but you will never capture us alive." He said this so +calmly, with such politeness of manner, and yet so firmly, that the +Meer was evidently taken aback: at length he replied, "But no such +piece of villainy has ever entered my head." He then adroitly +changed the subject, and shortly after took his leave.</p> + +<p>When he was gone we held another council of war. It was by no +means clear that the last declaration of the chief was a sincere +one; but it might have been a temporizing answer elicited by the +perhaps unexpected boldness of Sturt's remark. We determined, at +all events, to keep on the alert, guard against any surprise, avoid +as much as possible offering any pretext for offence, and, if the +worst came to the worst, make as good a resistance as we could.</p> + +<p>The next day we received a polite message, requesting an +interview, and asking us to visit him in his favourite garden. +Under all circumstances we deemed it best to allow it to appear +that our suspicions were dissipated, and we accordingly accepted +the invitation, and found the Meer seated on the chabooka, or +<i>raised platform of masonry</i>, under the shade of some +magnificent trees. He immediately commenced saying, "The reason I +did not go out to meet you as you approached my city is, that +during the warm weather I sleep the greater portion of the day and +sit up enjoying the coolness of the night air; but I sent a +messenger to escort you in with all care, and unfortunately <i>he +missed the way</i>." Such an excuse was possible, but not at all +probable. We did not give him credit for telling the truth about +the guide, as there was only one road from Heibuk, and the approach +of our party to Koollum was known in the city several days before +our arrival. It was now evident to us that on our approach the Meer +Walli was undecided whether he should treat us as friends or foes; +it seemed that for the present he had determined in our favour, but +distrusting his capricious disposition we were only the more +anxious to get out of his reach, though we both agreed that the +wisest and safest plan would be to carry our heads very high and +put a bold front upon all our proceedings. This decision we came to +whilst sitting in the garden in the presence of the Meer. Suddenly +we heard a confused murmur behind us, and the heavy sound of the +butt end of several muskets striking the ground as in "ordering +arms;" we turned sharply round, and perceived with astonishment, +not unmingled with satisfaction, that six or eight of our +Affghān guard, notwithstanding the numerous followers round +the Meer, had entered the garden of their own accord and placed +themselves immediately in our rear with bayonets fixed. The Meer +appeared to take no notice of this extraordinary intrusion, and +after a few compliments permitted us to withdraw.</p> + +<p>On returning to the caravanserai we inquired why the guard had +acted thus without orders; they told us they had secretly heard +that treachery was intended by the Meer towards us, and that +therefore they had deemed it their duty to protect us from any +surprise; moreover, that ten more of the guard had been stationed +close outside the garden ready to support them at a moment's +notice. Our own opinion was that at that time nothing of the kind +was in contemplation, but it was satisfactory to view the +determined spirit which animated our men. Strange anomaly that +these very men who now came voluntarily forward to protect our +persons from insult at the imminent risk of their lives, should +have been found amongst those who, with their arms and +accoutrements, had deserted in a body from the British to the side +of the Ex-Ameer at the battle of Bameeān a few months +after.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIV">XIV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>Pursuant to our plan of appearing to have full confidence in the +Meer Walli's integrity of purpose, we affected to lay aside all +personal precaution and courted his society, of which, to say +truth, he seemed disposed to give us plenty. We had several +interviews with him,––indeed, hardly a day passed +without his sending for and honouring us with his presence for +several hours.</p> + +<p>During these meetings we used every endeavour to sound the chief +as to his intentions with respect to us, without betraying an undue +anxiety on the subject, but could make very little out of him.</p> + +<p>Our conversation frequently turned on military matter, and many +very pertinent questions were put to us relative to our rank, pay, +duties, discipline, &c. On Sturt informing him that he was in +the engineer department, and that his particular duties were to +construct bridges, repair fortifications, superintend mining +operations, and furnish plans of attack, he was promptly asked, "In +how long a time do you think your army could take my fortress?" In +about a quarter of an hour, answered Sturt in his quiet way. "No, +no," said the Meer with some indignation, "I am sure you could not +do so in so short a time;" and then he paused, evidently making up +his mind to tell us a story. After a little, out it came. "That +Feringhis should take my fortress, the strongest in the world, in a +quarter of an hour is impossible, for it took me, with five hundred +horsemen, double that time." Then, apparently forgetting his anger +in the anxiety to recount his own exploits, he continued, "when I +took possession of this fort I left my army at a little distance, +and selecting a few expert warriors, I gallopped up to the gate of +the fortress, which I found <i>open</i>. I dashed in before the +enemy were alarmed, and immediately proclaimed that the place was +taken by the victorious Merr Walli. The fools believed me, and all +ran away. By-and-bye my army came up and marched quietly in."</p> + +<p>We had heard some time before that Dost Mahommed's eldest son, +Meer Ufzul Khan, was in Koollum, and it must be confessed that this +circumstance did not much contribute to our sense of security, for +we could not but feel that we might fairly expect he would not lose +so palpable an opportunity of doing us harm should he be so +disposed. One morning he sent us a polite message to request an +interview, which of course was readily granted. He came, looking +pale and sorrowful, and his tone and manner soon satisfied us that +his intentions were peaceable. After the usual compliments he +entered on the subject of his father's present position and +political prospects; he remarked that our <i>star was too +bright</i>, and assured us that his father was anxious to accede to +any terms which the British might think fit to impose short of +banishing him to India, and strongly urged us to write to our +Government to that effect. We explained to Ufzul Khan that we had +received no instructions to act in a political capacity, and that +any interference on our part with the affairs of the nation might +be looked upon by our superiors as an unwarrantable piece of +presumption. He seemed much disappointed at the reply, and, at +last, Sturt promised to write and mention the conversation to the +authorities, which he did. I am not certain whether he wrote to Dr. +Lord or Sir William M'Naghten, nor can be positive that his letter +ever reached its destination––at all events, it was of +no avail. Ufzul Khān endeavoured to persuade us to remain at +Koollum till his father should arrive, who, he said, had escaped +from his prison at Bokhara by the assistance of the chief of Shere +Subz, as I have already noticed, and was now making his way to the +territories of the Meer Walli by a circuitous route, so as to elude +the vigilance of the king, and frustrate his endeavours to +recapture him. We were much pleased to find that Ufzul Khan had no +suspicion of our not being free agents, and Sturt answered he +regretted much that the shortness of the time we had yet at our +disposal would prevent his complying with his request, which, +indeed, considering all the circumstances of the case, it would +have been an act of most culpable folly to have acceded to. At the +conclusion of this interview Sturt presented him with a handsome +rifle, which he received with the utmost gratitude, saying that he +was now poor and had nothing to offer in return but his thanks, +which, however, he hoped we would believe to be sincere.</p> + +<p>No sooner had Meer Ufzul taken his leave than the Meer Walli +made his appearance with the evident intention of ascertaining the +results of our interview, and the part we were disposed to take in +any negociation concerning the Dost. The Meer was apparently +anxious to remain on good terms with both parties, or, in other +words, preferred having two strings to his bow. "Should the Dost +claim my protection," said he, "how would you advise me to +act?––He is your enemy, yet I must not abandon him, or +deliver him into the hands of the British; for, although I do not +wish to offend the British Government, I owe my present power to +the influence of the Ameer,––he has always been my +patron, and I must be his friend. And then, moreover, you are the +first British officers I have seen since your army took possession +of Affghanistān; no notice has been taken of me, the Meer +Walli of Koollum; yet, to the petty chiefs of Bameeān vakeels +and friendly messages have been sent, with valuable +presents––while, to my repeated letters courting an +amicable alliance, not even an answer has been +given.––Is it courteous to treat an inferior +so?––Is it the conduct generally adopted by the first +nation in the world? The doubtful way in which your Government has +behaved leaves me uncertain as to how my conduct will be +interpreted,––but, if <i>you</i> will represent that +the Meer Walli wishes to be on terms of amity, I shall consider you +as my best friends. Indeed, I would have it known I wish to remain +as neutral as possible in any political struggle that may take +place."––Here he paused, as if expecting some answer +which would be a guide to him, but, receiving none, he at length +continued: "I will receive the Dost and be kind to him until he +recovers from the fatigues of his journey, and then will beg him to +leave Koollum."––It was obvious enough that a +consideration for himself was the only motive which really +influenced our worthy guest, who, it was clear, would gladly have +betrayed his former patron if he could have induced us to guarantee +an adequate reward to himself. Of course we did not feel authorised +to hold out any such prospect, and endeavoured to convince him of +the truth that we were not employed in any political capacity, and +could not possibly interfere without exposing ourselves to severe +animadversions from our superiors. I could not but feel the truth +of the Meer's remarks on our policy in conciliating the petty +chiefs, whilst the friendly overtures of the more powerful were +treated almost with insulting neglect.</p> + +<p>From the expression of the Meer's sentiments during this +interview, we concluded that, however great a rascal his highness +might eventually prove, still his present policy was to be on good +terms with us, and all anxiety on our part as to being forcibly +detained was allayed, so that we began now seriously to determine +on our future proceedings. As one of the principal objects I had in +view on joining Sturt was to procure coins and those relics of +antiquity so abundant in the neighbourhood of Balkh, I was most +anxious to prosecute my journey hither, and accordingly took an +opportunity of explaining to the Meer my wishes and intentions, +requesting him to furnish me with an adequate escort for my +protection. He evinced a decided unwillingness to facilitate my +advance, treating my anxiety to collect coins as an assumed reason +to conceal some other more important motive. This was very +provoking, but, by this time, we were so much accustomed to have +the true and simple account of our plans and intentions treated +with civil incredulity, that we felt almost disposed to allow the +frequent insinuations of our concealed political character to +remain uncontradicted––so useless were all our +endeavours to satisfy the natives as to our real position. In vain +I urged upon the Meer the emptiness of all his professions of +friendship if he now declined to assist me in the manner I clearly +pointed out; all was of no avail; on the contrary, the more urgent +I became the more obstinate he grew, and I at last was painfully +convinced, not only that he disbelieved me, but that he had not the +slightest intention of permitting us to proceed across his frontier +in the direction of the territories of the King of +Bokhārā. He objected that it was a long journey from +Cābul to Balkh merely to pick up "rubbish;" and though the +actual danger was only for a short space, yet, if any accident +happened, if, as he declared was highly probable, we were seized +and carried into slavery, he should have to answer to the British +Government. His horsemen too would be an insufficient protection +against an attack from the numerous hordes of thieves who infested +the desert, and would surely be on the alert to pounce upon so +valuable a booty. He continued repeating these arguments till we +lost all hope of persuading him, and not deeming it advisable to +risk a rupture of our present apparently good understanding, we +reluctantly submitted and turned our thoughts homewards.[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: The anxiety I have here shewn to +procure the escort from the Meer will perhaps appear uncalled for, +but those who delight in numismatological specimens will agree with +me that the disappointment was not trifling, as only a few +travellers had succeeded in obtaining rare coins, and I had every +reason to believe other varieties were to be found.]</p> + +<p>No sooner was it rumoured in the bazaar that we were about to +return to Cabul, than several Hindoo bankers waited upon us to pay +their respects and offer whatever sums of money we might require +for the journey. They were all very anxious to lend, and were much +dissatisfied at the insignificant amount of the cash we required, +though the only security was a written promise that we would pay +the amount to a certain banker in Cabul on our return; they offered +us as much as ten thousand rupees, and appeared very anxious to +avail themselves of the opportunity of sending money to Cabul. At +all events their confidence was a gratifying proof of the high +estimation in which the British name was held in that remote +country.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h5>Fac-Simile Drawings of <a name="Ancient_Coins">Ancient +Coins</a> found in Toorkisthan and Affghanistan,<br /> +in the possession of Capt. Burslem.</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> +<h6>Description of Coins.</h6> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 1"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin1.jpg" width="78" height="159" alt="Coin 1" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 1.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A Bactrian coin: +legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from the Greek lettering, +Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a tuckt or throne, with +his right arm extended.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 2"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin2.jpg" width="81" height="169" alt="Coin 2" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 2.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A square copper +coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek +lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, holding in one +hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse bears Pelhvic +characters.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 3"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin3.jpg" width="80" height="162" alt="Coin 3" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 3.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A square copper +coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus megal] +is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the Great, of which I have +no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he reigned in Bactria 181 +B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, with the figures of two +warriors mounted.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 4"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin4.jpg" width="75" height="152" alt="Coin 4" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 4.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square silver +coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the inscription, +[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. The +reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 5"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin5.jpg" width="71" height="137" alt="Coin 5" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 5.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square copper +coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is a woman holding a +flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to be a Kanirkos +coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 6"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin6.jpg" width="66" height="134" alt="Coin 6" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 6.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A round silver +Indo-Scythian coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 7"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin7.jpg" width="60" height="118" alt="Coin 7" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 7.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square silver +coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an elephant, with the +Bactrian monogram beneath––[Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The +characters and figures on this coin are very distinct.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 8"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin8.jpg" width="56" height="113" alt="Coin 8" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 8.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">Another coin of +Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis elevated: legend, +[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. On the +reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 9"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin9.jpg" width="48" height="89" alt="Coin 9" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 9.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A gold coin, +supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The legend begins with +Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a naked figure, with +the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but in copper, have +been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. Lady Sale +considers this coin to be a great beauty and of value.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Gemstone"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/gem.jpg" width="50" height="37" alt="Gemstone" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 10.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A gem found in the +plain of Buggram.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XV">XV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>After a most friendly parting interview with the Meer Walli, +when he presented us with a horse and baggage pony, we started from +Koollum on the 22nd of July, accompanied, by the Meer's special +directions, by one of his confidential servants to act ostensibly +as our guide, but who, probably, had also his secret instructions +to report on all such of our proceedings as might in any way affect +the interests of his master.</p> + +<p>We proposed to diverge from the route by which we had advanced, +at Heibuk, passing through Ghoree, in the territories of the +Koondooz chief, and returning to Badjghār by the Dushti +Suffaed pass, which Start was very anxious to survey.</p> + +<p>Our first day's march brought us to Hazree Sultan, and the next +morning we reached Heibuk, where we were cordially welcomed by our +old friend Meer Baber Beg, and had again to undergo the infliction +of that detestable compound of grease, flour, salt, and tea, which +the Meer in his hospitality was always pressing us to swallow.</p> + +<p>On our departure the next morning, he sent us a present of a +horse; an indifferent one, 'tis true, but, at least, it marked his +kindly feeling; he warned us not to delay longer than was +absolutely necessary in the country of Meer Moorad Beg, whom he +described in no very flattering terms; and he, moreover, cautioned +us against the Koondooz fever, which he declared would inevitably +attack us if we were not very careful in selecting our encamping +ground at a distance from the pestilential marshes which skirted +the bases of the hills. We thanked him for his friendly advice, and +started for Rhobāt, where we arrived after a dismal ride of +twenty-two miles. The country through which we travelled was +perhaps the most dreary portion of Toorkisthān; for about +twelve miles we traversed a dry low grass jungle of about a foot in +height, tenanted by a species of wild goat, several of which we +disturbed on our passage through their haunts, but not being +prepared for any sport, I did not take advantage of their +unwariness.</p> + +<p>The road was utterly devoid of water for a space of full sixteen +miles, at the end of which we came upon a scanty supply, scarce +sufficient for our immediate necessities and utterly inadequate for +a force of any magnitude. The pista tree, the fruit of which is +carried to the Indian market, was seen here in considerable +quantities; it is very similar in its growth and foliage to the +Dauk of Hindoostan.</p> + +<p>The <i>assa fœtida</i> shrub also abounded on the +neighbouring hills, and we were almost overpowered by the horrible +stench exhaled therefrom. It is collected in its wild state and +sent to Cābul and India, yielding a good profit to those who +pick it, as it is used very generally throughout the East for +kabobs and curries. We also observed, that day, several coveys of +chikore.</p> + +<p>At Rhobat is an old caravanserai for travellers, the remains of +a very fine and extensive building, with accommodation and +apartments all round the square of about twenty-four yards. It is +said to have been constructed in the time of the famous Abdoollah +Khan, and was reduced to its present desolate state by Meer Moorad +Beg, the chief of Koondooz, who some years ago ravaged the whole of +this district, burning and laying waste whatever he could not carry +off.</p> + +<p>On the 25th of July we marched to Ghoree, a distance of about 21 +miles. As we approached it, we enjoyed a fine prospect of the +extensive savannahs of grass so characteristic of Toorkisthān; +many horses were feeding in the distance, and the vale, flanked by +low hills, was bounded only by the horizon. We were told that it +extended in a right line upwards of thirty miles, and that it was +frequently used for horse-racing, the customary length of the +course being upwards of twenty miles. We were now in the +territories of Meer Moorad Beg, a chief of notorious character, +but, trusting to the continuance of the good fortune which had +hitherto attended us, we did not make ourselves uncomfortable about +him. We could not much admire his town of Ghoree, which, with his +fort, was situate on the edge of a morass extending from the limits +of the savannah to the foot of the hills––I should +think that the fever so prevalent in these districts must be in a +great degree attributable to the absolute want of drainage and the +decomposition of vegetable matter. Its position was most +insalubrious, for the marshy swamps commenced at the very base of +hills, and thus as it were encircled the savannahs with a belt of +miasma.</p> + +<p>The ague, which is usually accompanied by fever, is of a kind +very difficult to shake off, gradually weakening the sufferer till +he sinks under its influence; the natives themselves are by no +means free from its strokes, to which attacks every stranger who +remains for many days in the vicinity of the marshes is liable. +Though a veil of mystery still covers the particulars of poor +Moorcroft's fate, it seems more than probable that he fell a victim +to the fever of this country, though the seed that was sown did not +mature till some time after he had quitted it.</p> + +<p>The fort of Ghoree has great strength, being on a level with the +adjacent country and surrounded by a wet ditch thirty feet wide and +very deep; its stagnant water teemed with fish of a large size, but +I had no opportunity of ascertaining their species. There was a +rude drawbridge across the moat, and the dwellings around the fort +were temporary hovels composed of straw; so suspicious were the +occupants of our intentions that they would not allow us access to +the interior of the fort. While reposing at the door of my tent on +the evening of our arrival at Ghoree, I was accosted by an old man, +with the usual request for a little medicine, as one of his family +was afflicted with rheumatism; I gave from our now much reduced +medicine chest what I thought at least could do no harm, and +endeavoured, as was my custom, to engage the old gentleman in +conversation. I have before mentioned the propensity of these +people for <i>story-telling</i>, and I much fear that when, with +their native acuteness in discriminating character, they detect an +anxiety on the part of the questioner for old stories, no +difficulty exists in the concoction of one for him. In the case now +alluded to, I beg to assure my readers that I do not in the +slightest degree pledge myself for the veracity of the story which +the old man related to me. I should not like even to say that the +customs to which he alluded were really "<i>bonâ fide"</i> +the customs of his country; however, I give it as it was related, +nothing doubting that it will be received with due caution, and, at +all events, though it may not be received as a legend really +characteristic of Toorkisthān weddings, it has indisputable +claims to illustrate the habits of Toorkisthān +<i>story-tellers</i>.</p> + +<p>I was remarking to him on the beauty and extent of his +savannahs, and, in assenting to what I said, he observed that they +were frequently the theatre of wedding races; having soon engaged +my attention, he proceeded to narrate the following story, founded +perhaps on the numerous outrages of which the despised Huzareh +tribe were the victims.</p> + +<p>"Far up in one of the numerous valleys of the Yakkoollung +country," he commenced, "resided an ancient couple, whose +occupation throughout the summer day consisted in storing food for +the winter season, and who, when their work was finished, continued +mournfully to dwell on the all-absorbing subject of the forcible +abduction of their daughter by one of the Uzbeg chiefs.</p> + +<p>"Two years and more had now passed since the outrage was +perpetrated by a party of Uzbeg horsemen, who, ever bent on plunder +and bloodshed, made an incursion into the valley, visiting the +different forts at the time when the male inhabitants were employed +in the labour of cultivation, and seizing numerous youths and +maidens. On the occasion alluded to, among the number of victims +was the only daughter of the aged Huzareh peasants, who was +considered amongst her tribe as a perfect Peri––'A maid +with a face like the moon, scented like musk, a ravisher of hearts, +delighting the soul, seducing the senses, and beautiful as the full +moon,' She was placed for security behind one of the best mounted +of the robbers, whilst the other helpless wretches were driven +unresistingly before the horsemen like a flock of sheep, till the +abductors reached their own independent territory.</p> + +<p>"Before the close of that ill-fated day, the mothers and +relations of the stolen were rushing in frantic despair through the +fields, announcing to the husbands and fathers the misfortune which +had overtaken them.</p> + +<p>"The men immediately quitted their work, and armed only with +their implements of labour pursued the ravishers for many a mile; +but what could they do on foot against so many horsemen? Perhaps it +was fortunate for them that they could not overtake the robbers, +for they would only have become additional victims. They returned +home to bewail their unhappy fate and curse the cruel authors of +their misery.</p> + +<p>"It happened about a year afterwards that the old man's son +returned from Candahār, to enjoy, as he anticipated, a few +weeks' happiness with his aged parents and blooming sister; but no +sooner had he crossed the threshhold and received the blessing of +his trembling parents, than he was made aware of the desolation +that had passed over his house. Vowing vengance on the perpetrators +of this foul act, and calling down the anger of heaven on all the +generation of Uzbegs, the brave Azeem left his home, and abandoning +all hopes of repose, busied himself in collecting a band of +athletic and desperate young men, who swore on the Korān their +determination to have revenge or perish in the attempt. Young Azeem +was unanimously chosen commander of the party, and the next morning +at break of day, without further preparation beyond taking a small +supply of food, they started on their journey. Travelling long +days, and resting short nights in the crevices of the mountains, +after eighteen days' toil, they at length reached a part of +Tartary, distant only two days' march from the fort belonging to +the robber Uzbegs who had so cruelly injured them. It now became +necessary to advance with more circumspection, as they could no +longer depend upon the peasants for protection in the less friendly +country they had reached, so separating into several small parties +they approached stealthily the Uzbeg fort; some kept the hills on +either side, while the rest followed the winding of the grassy +plains. Thus proceeding, they formed a kind of circle round the +fort, so that they could notice the ingress or departure of its +tenants on every side. The fort appeared too strong for an open +attack, and when, at night, the leaders of the detached parties +assembled to discuss their future plans and to report what they had +seen during the day, it was determined to lie in ambush another day +for the chance of the main body of the Uzbegs quitting their fort +on some foray, so that they would have a better chance, should it +become necessary to attack it. Providence seemed to favour their +designs, for early next morning considerable parties of Uzbegs were +seen issuing from the fort and proceeding towards a large savannah, +where some festival was evidently in preparation––for, +from the quantity of women and children who accompanied the +horsemen, it was clear that fighting was not the business of the +day.</p> + +<p>"Anxiously did Azeem and his followers watch the movements of +their unsuspecting enemy, and soon, from the nature of the +preparations going forward, they discovered that a wedding race was +about to take place. It was instantly determined to allow the +ceremony to proceed, and the capture of the bride was to be the +signal for all the Huzarehs to rush in and carry out their +object.</p> + +<p>"And now the suitors of the maiden, nine in number, appear in +the field, all unarmed, but mounted on the best horses they can +procure; while the bride herself, on a beautiful Turkoman stallion, +surrounded by her relations, anxiously surveys the group of lovers. +The conditions of the bridal race were these:––The +maiden has a certain start given, which she avails herself of to +gain a sufficient distance from the crowd to enable her to manage +her steed with freedom, so as to assist in his pursuit the suitor +whom she prefers. On a signal from the father all the horsemen +gallop after the fair one, and whichever first succeeds in +encircling her waist with his arm, no matter whether disagreeable +or to her choice, is entitled to claim her as his wife. After the +usual delays incident upon such interesting occasions, the maiden +quits the circle of her relations, and putting her steed into a +hand gallop, darts into the open plain. When satisfied with her +position, she turns round to the impatient youths, and stretches +out her arms towards them, as if to woo their approach. This is the +moment for giving the signal to commence the chace, and each of the +impatient youths, dashing his pointed heels into his courser's +sides, darts like the unhooded hawk in pursuit of the fugitive +dove. The savannah was extensive, full twelve miles long and three +in width, and as the horsemen sped across the plain the favoured +lover became soon apparent by the efforts of the maiden to avoid +all others who might approach her.</p> + +<p>"At length, after nearly two hours' racing, the number of +pursuers is reduced to four, who are all together, and gradually +gaining on the pursued; with them is the favourite, but alas! his +horse suddenly fails in his speed, and as she anxiously turns her +head she perceives with dismay the hapless position of her lover; +each of the more fortunate leaders, eager with anticipated triumph, +bending his head on his horse's mane, shouts at the top of his +voice, "I come, my Peri; I'm your lover." But she, making a sudden +turn, and lashing her horse almost to fury, darts across their +path, and makes for that part of the chummun, <i>plain</i>, where +her lover was vainly endeavouring to goad on his weary steed.</p> + +<p>"The three others instantly check their career, but in the hurry +to turn back two of the horses are dashed furiously against each +other, so that both steeds and riders roll over on the plain. The +maiden laughed, for she well knew she could elude the single +horseman, and flew to the point where her lover was. But her only +pursuer was rarely mounted and not so easily shaken off; making a +last and desperate effort he dashed alongside the maiden, and, +stretching out his arm, almost won the unwilling prize; but she, +bending her head to her horse's neck, eluded his grasp and wheeled +off again. Ere the discomfited horseman could again approach her +her lover's arm was around her waist, and amidst the shouts of the +spectators they turned towards the fort.</p> + +<p>"Alas! this was the agreed signal amongst the Huzarehs, who, +screened by the undulations of the savannah or hidden in the +watercourses, had been anxiously awaiting the event. With a +simultaneous shout they rush in upon the unprepared multitude, and +commence an indiscriminate massacre; but short was their success, +for a distant party of Uzbegs were observed rapidly gallopping to +the scene of action, and the Huzarehs were compelled to retire, +their spirit for vengeance yet unslaked. The panic their sudden +onslaught had caused was so great that they might all have retired +unmolested had not Azeem suddenly recognized his sister amongst a +group of females who were being hurried towards the fort. +Regardless of the almost certain death that awaited him he rushed +to embrace her, but hardly had he clasped her in his arms when the +chief of the harem drove his Persian dagger through his back. At +sight of this all thoughts of further revenge were abandoned, and +the Huzarehs hastily quitting the field made the best of their way +home, not without having, though at the expense of the life of +their leader, inflicted a severe punishment on the invaders of +their peaceful country,"[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Clark, in his Travels in Russia and +Tartary, describes the ceremony of marriage among the Calmucks as +performed on horseback.</p> + +<blockquote>"The girl is first mounted and rides off at full speed. +Her lover pursues, and if he overtakes her she becomes his wife, +and the marriage is consummated on the spot; after which she +returns with him to his tent. But it sometimes happens that the +woman does not wish to marry the person by whom she is pursued, in +which case she will not suffer him to overtake her; and we were +assured that no instance occurs of a Calmuck girl being caught, +unless she has a partiality for her pursuer. If she dislikes him +she rides, to use the language of an English sportsman, 'neck or +nothing,' until she has completely escaped, or until the pursuer's +horse is tired out, leaving her at liberty to return, and to be +afterwards chased by some more favourite admirer."]</blockquote> + +<p>Such was the old man's tale; whether the offspring of his +fertile imagination, or actually founded upon fact, so plausible +did it appear, and so much interested was I in his narration, that +it became forcibly imprinted on my memory, and I have minutely +followed him in its details.</p> + +<p>The morning after our arrival at Ghoree several of our followers +were taken ill, and as all were in great dread of the Koondooz +fever, a considerable alarm prevailed in our small camp. We did not +at first think much of the sickness, which we attributed to too +free an indulgence in the Koondooz melon, which is of a very large +size, and equal in flavour to those of Cabul. We therefore +determined to remain a day or two at Ghoree, in the hopes of a +favourable change taking place. But on the third day it was evident +that the Koondooz fever had really made its appearance, and several +of the guard and servants, to the number of twenty and upwards, +were so much weakened as to be unable to proceed. In this dilemma +we deemed it advisable not to remain any longer in the vicinity of +the marshes, and resolved to proceed with such of our men as were +still healthy, to survey the Dushti Suffaed Pass, already alluded +to. We determined on leaving the sick and the greater portion of +our baggage behind, and despatched a letter to Meer Moorad Beg, +requesting permission for them to remain at Ghoree till our return, +which we hoped would not be delayed beyond a few days. The ruler of +Koondooz civilly acceded to our request, and sent us many friendly +messages, but hardly sufficient to dispel our uneasiness at leaving +even for so short a time such temptation for the gratification of +his predatory propensities; but we had the choice of two +evils––our time was so short that if we all remained +together at Ghoree, not only might the ravages of the fever become +more serious, but the opportunity would be lost of examining the +pass. Before leaving Ghoree we received a message from the governor +of the fort, apologizing for his inability to visit us, with the +excuse that there being much treachery and ill will in the +neighbourhood, he dare not quit his post, lest he fall under the +dreaded displeasure of Meer Moorad Beg.</p> + +<p>We now dismissed, with a dress of honour and letter of thanks, +the <i>confidential</i> man whom the Meer Walli of Koollum had +ordered to accompany us, and leaving the greater part of our +medicine chest for the use of the sick, we started on the 28th of +August. Before our departure we received a further proof of the +friendly disposition of Moorad Beg, in the shape of a beautiful +Toorkmān saddle, not larger than an English racing one; the +flaps were richly embroidered, and the steel pommel was inlaid with +inscription in gold of sentences from the Korān.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVI">XVI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>We were now about to explore a part of Toorkisthān which I +have reason to believe had never been visited by Europeans; the +distance between Ghoree and Badjgh[=]ar is about eighty miles, +across as wild and romantic a country as can well be conceived, +consisting of a succession of difficult and in some places perilous +defiles; the last of these was the famous Dushti Suffaed, which +leads to Badjghār. There is a sameness in the features of +these Toorkisthān passes which renders a faithful description +tedious, from its monotony and the necessary repetition of similar +characteristic features; yet the reader will hardly fail to draw +important conclusions from the immense difficulty and almost +practical impossibility that a modern army of considerable numbers, +with all its incumbrances, through such a country, with any hope of +its retaining its efficiency or even a tithe of its original +numerical strength, will encounter. And when we consider that the +passes of Toorkisthān embrace only a small part of the +distance to be traversed by an army from the west, we may well +dismiss from our minds that ridiculous impression, once so +unfortunately prevalent in India, that is now justly denominated +<i>Russophobia</i>. What a fearful amount of human suffering might +have been averted! what national disgrace might have been avoided! +and what millions of treasure saved, had the authorities in India +but examined the practicability of an invasion which Russia had too +much wisdom ever seriously to contemplate!</p> + +<p>But to return to our wanderings. As I said before, we left +Ghoree early in the morning of the 28th, and soon reached the foot +of the hills, ascending a narrow valley which gradually contracted +into a rocky ravine. As we traversed the higher levels all +vegetation ceased, excepting the Pista tree already alluded to; yet +there must have been some herbage in the gullies, as we saw several +flocks of wild goats, so wild indeed that it was impossible to get +within rifle range of them. We had heard of a place called +Shullāctoo, within the distance of a day's march, and +conceiving naturally that it was a habitation of men, we determined +to pass the night there. As the evening advanced, the aspect of the +country assumed a still wilder and more desolate character, our +cattle began to show symptoms of distress, and as the hills were +apparently destitute of water, we became a little uneasy regarding +the nature of our billet. A sudden turn of the ravine brought us to +a small open space, without a blade of grass or a vestige of any +thing human, which our guide complacently informed us was +Shullāctoo, a mere "locus standi." After the first feeling of +dismay had subsided, we recollected that we had a small supply of +food for our horses; and water being now found for the first time +since we entered the hills,––and we had come a good +sixteen miles,––we determined not to proceed further, +so pitching our little tent we made ourselves as comfortable as +circumstances would admit.</p> + +<p>On the 29th we marched, a distance of fourteen miles, to a small +fort called Keune. But I unfortunately commenced the day's work by +losing my way amongst the rocks, with some of the guard: after +wandering for some hours, surrounded by scenery the grandeur of +which I should better have appreciated under different +circumstances, one of the Affghān soldiers hit upon a pathway, +and seeing a man in the distance, he made for, and, seizing him in +the most unceremonious manner, brought him to me. The poor fellow +was in the greatest state of alarm; he had evidently never seen a +Feringhi before, and fancied that his last hour had arrived. I put +a rupee into his hand, and endeavoured to make him understand that +we were neither robbers nor murderers, but travellers who had lost +their way; he was naturally incredulous, for certainly our +appearance gave but small indication of our respectable +character.[*] At length we were obliged to intimate that his fears +might be realized unless he showed us the way to Keune, which we +eventually reached in the evening, much exhausted with our +excursion.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: I was armed with a huge +old-fashioned sword of the 11th dragoons, purchased in the Cabul +bazaar, (marked D-XI Dr.) and clad in a green Swiss frock. I had a +coloured turban wound in copious folds round my head as a +protection from the sun, beard of nearly three months' growth, and +accompanied by a ferocious-looking tribe of Affghans, all unshorn +as well as myself, created anything but a prepossessing impression +to a stranger. The reader will not, therefore, feel surprised at +the man's hesitation in meeting us.]</p> + +<p>The chief of the fort at first declined furnishing us with any +supplies, though we offered liberal payment, declaring that he had +only sufficient for his own consumption; he, however, relented, and +sent us enough for our immediate wants. He afterwards came himself, +and informed us that we had acted very unwisely in mentioning at +Ghoree the route we proposed to follow, as one of the Sheikkallee +Huzareh chiefs, who was in a state of rebellion, had passed through +Keune the day before, and had stated that a party of Feringhis were +about to pass through his country with a quantity of odd looking +boxes filled with money, (alluding, I suppose, to the theodolite, +&c.) and that he would with his whole tribe waylay and rob us. +This was pleasant news, but we took the hint and determined to be +on our guard. In return for this piece of information, the +inhabitants of Keune expressed a desire to see the <i>Feringhis +feed</i>; rather a novel request, but one which we easily gratified +by striking the walls of the tent while we eat our dinner. The +natives squatted down in a circle outside the tent pins, and +watched every morsel we put into our mouths with the utmost +interest and with many exclamations of surprise and astonishment; +and when before retiring for the night we as usual had a skinful of +water poured over us, their wonder knew no bounds; they were +evidently but slightly acquainted with the use of water as applied +for the purposes of cleanliness.</p> + +<p>We left Keune at daybreak on the 30th, hoping to be able to make +our way to Badjghār, distant about forty-five miles, by +surmounting the Keune pass and proceeding down the Surruk Kulla +valley. The ascent was long and steep, the distance we had to +travel before reaching the summit being above thirteen miles; and +though we had been on the move nearly all day, such were the +difficulties of the pass that night overtook us shortly after we +had reached its crest.</p> + +<p>Not a sign of habitations or trace of cultivation was visible; +we had no corn for our cattle, but fortunately the more sheltered +spots in the vicinity of water were clothed with luxuriant grass, +which the horses greedily eat. Our followers had, with the +improvidence of Asiatics, brought but a scanty supply of food, and +indeed we were all to blame for having trusted too much to the wild +mountains for supplies. There were plenty of chikore, however, and +as I had succeeded in shooting two or three in the morning we were +not entirely without food; and having pitched our tent, we retired +to rest in the hope that the next day we should come upon some fort +where we might recruit.</p> + +<p>As we were preparing to start early on the morning of the 31st, +we met a traveller pursuing his solitary way to Keune, who, after +expressing his wonder at encountering a party of Feringhis in such +a place, inquired our proposed route. We informed him that our +intention was to proceed over the Surruk Kulla pass and make our +way to Badjghar, but he cautioned us not to attempt any such thing; +for though the road was better than the more direct one, called the +Espion Pass, it was infested by a robber tribe from whose hands he +had himself only escaped, not having any thing to lose.</p> + +<p>This unwelcome intelligence induced Sturt to change his plan, +and we agreed that having done our utmost to fulfil the wishes of +government in ascertaining the nature of the passes in the vicinity +of Badjghar, it was our duty to consult the safety of ourselves and +followers, and get them as soon as possible within reach of +protection. We had no food of any kind left, but after all we did +not anticipate much serious evil from a forced fast of forty-eight +hours; so, after rewarding our wanderer for his very seasonable +warning, we struck off to cross the Espion Pass. The event proved +how imminent had been our danger, for after reaching Badjghar we +were made aware that a large body of horsemen had assembled in the +Surruk Kullah valley for the purpose of attacking +us––that they had come up the road to meet us, and had +actually reached the point where we turned off about two hours +after us.</p> + +<p>We travelled the whole of the 31st August across a succession of +broken passes; so complicated were the valleys and so broken were +the range of hills, that we were unable to tell when we reached the +back-bone of the ridge, and we struggled on in doubt and difficulty +till we were again overtaken by the shades of night.</p> + +<p>Our cattle were quite exhausted; our followers grumbling, +dispirited, and frightened, the prospect of a second bivouac by no +means improving their discipline and insubordination.</p> + +<p>While I was endeavouring to pacify them by the only argument I +had at my disposal, founded on the principle of "<i>levius fit +patientiâ quidquid corrigere est nefas</i>," one of our +servants brought us the joyful news that from an eminence adjacent +he had discovered an abatta, or clump of blanket tents, surrounded +by cultivated land, about a mile off. Where tents were, food would +probably be obtainable; and as we were not in a condition to be +very particular as to the character of the inhabitants, we +immediately despatched an embassy with money to purchase whatever +edible substances they could procure. Our anxieties were now +relieved by the return of our mission, driving before them a couple +of very thin sheep, and carrying a small supply of corn for the +cattle. With this reasonable supply we made a tolerable meal, and +succeeded in putting the discontented into a better frame of +mind.</p> + +<p>We determined to make a push next morning for Badjghar, and +started before day-break for the Dushti Suffäed Pass, the +crest of which we reached after travelling a distance of about nine +miles over very bad ground. We were now "<i>en pays de +connoissance</i>," but our cattle were so much weakened by the work +and privations of the last three or four days, that we could not +attempt the long and difficult descent into the valley beneath. I +therefore rode on alone and reached Badjghar in a few hours. I +immediately visited Capt. Hay, and having procured a supply of +food, returned with it the same night to the party, much exhausted +with my trip, but satisfied now that there could be no further +cause for grumbling on the part of our followers.</p> + +<p>The state of our baggage-equipage next morning was so bad, that +Sturt thought it advisable to give them another day's rest, and he +went on himself to Badjghar; but in the course of the day I +received an express from him, stating that circumstances had +occurred which made it absolutely necessary for me to bring in the +whole party without delay. I knew Sturt too well to doubt the +urgency he represented, and in spite of lame legs, sore backs, +&c. I managed to bring all hands safe into Badjghar late on the +evening of the 2d of August. Our men were taken every care of, +(which indeed they required, as fever and ague had weakened them +much,) and in a few days all traces of their sufferings had +disappeared; but poor Sturt, who had been complaining for some days +before of great debility and headache, was seized on the morning of +the 3d with a violent attack of Koondooz fever, which soon +prostrated his strength and caused me some uneasiness. He weathered +the storm, however, and by the 11th was sufficiently recovered to +enable him to resume his duties.</p> + +<p>I have before mentioned, I think, that we had left some of our +followers and a considerable portion of our baggage at Ghoree, +intending to return to that fort after visiting the passes which I +have alluded to; but on our reaching Badjghar we found that the +clouds which had been gathering for some time past in the political +horizon had assumed so threatening an appearance that it would be +madness to attempt to prosecute our examination of the nature of +the country, when its wild and lawless population were in such an +excited state. The intentions of the Koondooz ruler were not known, +and we felt very anxious for the safety of the sick whom we had +been necessitated to leave at Ghoree, as in addition to his natural +sympathy for a fellow-creature's sufferings, Sturt feared that if +any misfortune befel them, he might, though unjustly, be accused of +having deserted them. His uneasiness was increased by receipt of a +letter from Ghoree from one of our people, in which it was stated +that the baggage we had left behind had been opened and some things +abstracted, and that they themselves were in imminent danger of +being seized and sold as slaves.</p> + +<p>After making every allowance for the exaggerations of fear, +there was still sufficient in this communication to aggravate poor +Start's difficulties; he was in doubt whether to assume a high +tone, or to endeavour by flattery to save his followers, and his +last act before the violence of the fever obliged him to succumb +was a firm but respectful letter which he wrote to Meer Moorād +Beg, in which he stated that reports inconsistent with that chief's +known good faith had reached him; that he had heard that his +property had been seized and his people threatened; that he was +sure they were lies invented by Moorād Beg's enemies to create +a bad feeling towards him; and that he requested the men and +property might be immediately forwarded safe to Cabul. Those who +are familiar with the vanity and punctiliousness on points of +etiquette of the chieftains of the Hindoo Khoosh will easily +conceive how much depended upon the wording of this letter.</p> + +<p>In the written intercourse between equals it is customary to put +the impression of the signet at the top of the sheet, but from an +inferior such an act would be considered as highly presumptuous. +Sturt, though advised to assume the humble tone, was resolute in +putting his seal at the beginning of the letter, and the event +proved that his judgment was as usual correct, for though (it was +stated) the chief of Koondooz was but a few months after in arms +against the British, yet our people and property were safely +forwarded to us at Cabul.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVII">XVII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>It was only after my arrival at Badjghar with the men that I +became acquainted with Sturt's reasons for requesting me to come in +without delay, Capt Hay was in daily expectation of the arrival of +a convoy from Bameeān with a supply of provisions, clothing, +and ammunition for the use of his regiment, and having received +information from one of the numerous spies, who gain a livelihood +by supplying information to <i>both</i> parties, that large bodies +of men were assembling in the Kammurd valley, through which the +convoy would have to pass, determined, though he did not attach +much credit to his informant, to despatch as strong a body as he +could spare to reinforce the escort. He accordingly sent out two +companies of the Goorkha regiment with directions to proceed to the +"Dundun Shikkun Kotul," there to meet the convoy and protect them +in their passage through the Kammurd valley. Such was the scarcity +of European officers, that Capt. Hay was obliged to intrust the +command of the force to the quarter-master-serjeant of his corps; +who, though unused to the management of so considerable a party in +the field, and who might have been excused if in the hour of need +his brain had not been as fertile of expedients as is generally +necessary in encounters of this kind, acquitted himself in a manner +that would have done credit to the best light infantry officer in +the service. I much regret that I cannot record his name, but +before being appointed to the Goorkha corps he was a +non-commissioned officer in the Bengal European regiment. He was +one of the many victims, I fear, of the year 1841, as I have been +unable to trace his career. Hundreds of brave European +non-commissioned officers met a similar fate, and are merely +noticed as having perished in the retreat from Cabul. The many acts +of coldblooded treachery which disgraced the Affghans, and which +ought to have opened the eyes of those in power to the absurdity in +trusting to their faith, were merged in the wholesale murders of +Khoord Cabul, Jugdulluk, and Gundummuk.</p> + +<p>I have before described the narrowness of the valley up to +Kammurd and the lofty ranges of precipitous hills by which it is +flanked; and the reader will perhaps recollect my noticing two +forts on either side of the river a little above Piedbāgh. It +was here that the Serjeant halted his party after the first day's +march, intending to proceed the next morning to the Dundun Shikkun +pass to meet the convoy. At day-light he was informed that the +expected convoy had not crossed the pass, and while forming his men +to proceed and ascertain whether the report was correct or +otherwise, he was suddenly attacked by large bodies of horse and +foot: the serjeant immediately took advantage of the ground to +protect his party from the heavy fire which was poured in from all +sides, and having observed that the enemy, whoever they were, were +in too great a force to leave him a chance of successfully +maintaining his position, which was commanded from several points, +he determined on retreating to Badjghar, a distance of about nine +miles. The valley was full of orchards divided by low walls, and +perhaps to a well-disciplined company of steady old soldiers with +plenty of officers, a retreat, even in the face of several hundred +Uzbegs, might have been effected without loss, by forming the whole +body into two lines of skirmishers, and retiring alternately; but +the serjeant knew too well the temper of his gallant little +mountaineers, who are more famous for bravery than judgment, to +trust the safety of his party to the success of a manoeuvre, the +chief point in which was to know when to retreat. His first line of +skirmishers would never have retired in order, taking advantage of +every natural obstacle of the ground for concealment, but would +have boldly confronted the cavalry and probably been destroyed to a +man. He therefore moved his Goorkhas in quarter distance column +steadily along the road, which luckily hugged the precipitous hills +on one side, so that the enemy could only avail themselves of the +valley on the other side of the road to attack him, the mountains +being so impracticable that while they attempted to climb them to +turn his flank he had already gained so much ground as to be out of +reach of even a "plunging" fire. In ordinary quick time did this +little band retire under a heavy though straggling fire from a +force many times more numerous than themselves. The serjeant was +enabled with difficulty to carry out his plan, which was, not to +return the enemy's fire, but to proceed steadily on till he could +suddenly take advantage of some protecting ledge of rock or orchard +wall behind which he could form his men and confuse the enemy by +pouring in a few volleys. He would then form quarter distance +columns of subdivisions again, and proceed in his retreat as +before. He had no misgivings as to the courage and firmness of his +men, for the Goorkhas have ever been noted for their dashing +bravery, and an incident soon proved how wisely he had judged in +not extending his men. While retiring, a chance shot killed a man +who happened to be a great favourite; his nearest comrades +immediately halted and faced about, and notwithstanding the +commands and entreaties of the serjeant; they determined to avenge +his death. Grouping themselves round the body of their dead +companion, they awaited the enemy, and when sure that every shot +would tell, each man delivered his fire, and then drawing his knife +with a yell of defiance, rushed upon hundreds of their foes; to +have supported them would have been to lead the whole party to +inevitable slaughter, and the authority of the +quarter-master-serjeant was scarce sufficient to restrain his men +from breaking from their cover to join the unequal fight: as it +was, the gallant little band were soon outnumbered, and after a +reckless and desperate resistance were literally hacked to pieces. +The enemy encouraged by this success now pressed hard upon the +Goorkhas, and had they been fortunate enough in getting round to +the front not a man would have escaped; as it was, the men were +falling very fast, when a happy occurrence changed the aspect of +affairs. It seems that a chief, conspicuous from his glittering +armour and steel head-piece, mounted on a powerful horse with an +armed footman behind him, attracted the notice of the Goorkhas by +the cool manner in which he rode up to within a distance of about +eighty yards, delivered his fire, then galloped away out of gunshot +to allow the gentleman "en croupe" to reload. A few of the men +having observed this manoeuvre repeated three or four times, +concealed themselves behind a rock, while the main body retired. On +came the chief to within his prescribed distance; a volley from +behind the rock scarce ten paces off rolled horse and man over and +over. The effect on the enemy was such that they kept at a more +respectful distance, and after a few random shots discontinued the +pursuit. Such was the account the serjeant himself gave me of the +fight, and I have no reason to suspect him of exaggeration. He +accomplished his arduous retreat with a loss of nineteen men +killed, but more than half this number voluntarily sacrificed +themselves to avenge the death of their comrade. It is difficult, +when relating the numerous acts of heroism of the Goorkha troops, +to refrain from drawing invidious comparisons between their conduct +and that of the Hindoo soldier during the retreat from Cabul; but +though it must be allowed that the despondency and mental +enervation which sometimes spreads like an epidemic among Sepoy +troops, must importantly deteriorate from their general character +as soldiers, still it must be recollected that the physical +constitution of the Hindoo incapacitates him from action under some +circumstances. Severe cold benumbs his faculties of mind as well as +body, and the nature of his ordinary food is such that unless the +supply is regular and sufficient his strength fails him; and again, +his belief in predestination is strong, and often a trivial reverse +will induce him to abandon himself to his fate. But in these days +the Hindoo soldier need not fear that his noble and gallant +qualities will not be understood or appreciated. Every good soldier +will honor the Hindoo for his patient endurance, his courage, and +fidelity.</p> + +<p>To turn to the convoy: the attempt was made to get the camels +laden with ammunition, stores, and provisions over the Dundun +Shikkun Pass; but the difficulties were found to be so great that +the escort and convoy returned to Syghān, and crossing the +Nulli Fursh Kotul, reached their destination.</p> + +<p>This was the first glaring instance of the state of the country, +and some people may well be astonished it was viewed by the +political authorities in so insignificant a light. But I will not +too much impose upon the patience of the reader by detailing the +execrable reasons which were put forth for the most absurd measures +during the twelve months preceding the annihilation of our +army.</p> + +<p>It was now evident to those who were not obstinately blind that +a general rising was contemplated; and a few days after our arrival +at Badjghar we heard that Dost Mahommed had arrived at Koollum, and +that after all his diplomacy our old friend the Meer Walli had +received him with open arms, and was now on his way to attack our +out-posts. The authorities were shortly afterwards aroused from +their apathy, the advanced troops were very properly withdrawn, the +gallant Col. Dennie was sent in command of a small but efficient +force to the head of the Bameeān valley, where, as has been +before detailed, he repulsed the combined forces of Dost Mahommed +Khan, the Meer Walli of Koollum, and all the Uzbeg chiefs.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVIII">XVIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 12th of August we departed from Badjghar on our return to +Cābul, and I reached Bameeān by a forced march in two +days, preceding Sturt, who was still very weak and obliged to +travel more leisurely. I was very nearly suffering from my anxiety +to get on, for one of the laden Yabboos, being urged beyond what he +considered his lawful rate of progress, lashed out most furiously +with both hind legs; luckily, the flap of my saddle received the +full force of one of his heels, and the soft part of my leg the +other, which lamed me severely for a time.</p> + +<p>On the 22nd, Sturt having arrived, we made up our party to visit +the ruins of the Castle of Zohawk, distant about ten miles from +Bameeān. I was rewarded for my trouble, both from the +picturesque nature of the ruins themselves, and because I was +fortunate enough again to fall in with one of those professional +story-tellers from whom I have already largely quoted. I have +indeed listened to many more stories than I have ventured here to +insert; some I have rejected from the nature of their details, +others from there being a strong impression on my mind that they +were the extempore invention of the story-teller with a view to the +rupee, which he feared he would not secure if he confessed he had +nothing to relate. I have not perhaps been judicious in my +selection of those which I hoped would amuse the reader, but I have +done my best to choose for insertion those which differed the most +from each other; and I may be allowed to add as an excuse for my +apparent credulity regarding the tales themselves, that they are +implicitly believed by the inhabitants, so that, making allowance +for the corruption of tradition, the facts on which they are +founded in all probability did really occur.</p> + +<p>The ruins of the Castle of Zohawk are situated on a hill +commanding the high road from Toorkisthan over the Irāk and +Kalloo passes, and in the angle formed by the union of the +Bameeān and Irāk rivers. It is impossible to fix the date +of the first structure; it seems from the ruin to have been added +to at many successive epochs. The size of the towers appeared very +insignificant compared with the extent of ground which the building +at one time evidently covered, but perhaps the towers, though +small, were numerous. The only one now standing was situated high +up the hill, from which a covered passage partly cut through the +solid rock leads down to the water side. We had some trouble in +gaining the highest point of the ruins, as we were obliged to +scramble up the steep face of the precipice, still covered with the +remains of walls and bastions, which had been built up wherever the +ground was sufficiently level for a foundation. Many dreary-looking +cells attracted our notice amongst the ruins, and all the +information I could get was, that they were the abode of evil +spirits. My informant would, I do believe, have amused me for hours +with legends of the said spirits, and indeed every river and lake, +every mountain and valley in this district bears its peculiar +legend, always improbable, generally absurd, and though from that +very cause diverting for the moment, I fear that the naïve +taste amongst our "savans" which delighted in the history of Jack +the Giant-killer being fast on the wane, they would not be +gratified by a lengthy recital; but I must still take the liberty +of repeating as well as I could follow the vile jargon of my +narrator, a tale which he told me of the Castle of Zohawk while +standing on its ruins. He had evidently been accustomed to tell the +same story to others, or else I imagine that, in consideration of +our both being on the spot, he would have spared a description of +what I saw before my eyes. I give it to the reader as nearly as I +can in the narrator's words.</p> + +<p>"At the extreme end of a precipitous hill jutting out from the +main range of mountains at the junction of the Bameeān and +Irāk rivers, are the remains of an old castle called Zohawk, +after a noted freebooter, who, secure in the strength of his +fortress, was the terror of the surrounding villages, and lived by +rapine, pillage, and plunder of every kind. To a careless observer +the diminutive tower, which alone remains standing, would not +convey an adequate idea of the original extent of the castle; but +on a close examination the whole face of the mountain will be found +to be covered with ruined walls and roofless chambers, now the fit +abodes of devils of all sorts and denominations. Many hundreds of +years ago, before the invasion of Nadir Shah, Zohawk Khan occupied +the castle; he did not build it, but as it acquired an infamous +notoriety during his life-time, and has not been inhabited since, +it still bears the name of the ferocious robber, who with a band as +vicious as himself lived there for many years. Zohawk Khan was +originally an Huzareh peasant; he was seized while a child and +carried off in slavery to Toorkisthān, where his naturally +cruel and savage disposition was exasperated by ill-treatment and +fostered by the scenes of wickedness with which he was made +familiar. Being very cunning, he soon acquired influence amongst +his fellow slaves, and organized a conspiracy, in the fulfilment of +which his own master and many other Toorkomaun chiefs were put to +death under every refinement of torture. Zohawk at the head of the +rebel slaves then traversed the country, robbing the harmless +peasants, till he reached the vicinity of the castle, which still +bears his name. It was then inhabited by an old Huzareh chieftain, +who had formerly been a kind master to Zohawk's parents. Regardless +of the memory of past kindness, the ruffian determined to possess +himself of this place, and under the pretence of craving the +hospitality of the rightful owner, introduced himself and fellow +villains into the fortification. In the dead of the night, +according to a preconcerted plan, the robbers rose from their place +of rest, and stealing to the sleeping apartment of the chieftain, +murdered him; the affrighted garrison craved for life, but one +after another were placed in irons to be disposed of as slaves. The +freebooter, now master of the fortress, assumed the title of +Khān, and commenced that career of ruthless cruelty and +depravity which more than any thing else causes his name to be +remembered and his memory cursed by the present inhabitants of the +neighbourhood. The government of the self-styled Khān was a +reign of terror, and many were the nameless atrocities committed +within the walls of the castle. He had, however, one confidant, +whom he believed faithful, but who from interested motives +submitted to the savage passions of his master, and being the chief +eunuch of the harem, had great influence in that department. It was +the custom of Zohawk Khān to choose the autumn of the year for +the season of his predatory excursions, and it happened that, while +absent with the flower of his force on one of these death-dealing +expeditions, a conspiracy was set on foot, the principal agitator +being the eunuch of the seraglio. "It was determined that on the +evening when the chieftain was expected to return, a general feast +should be given to those remaining at home, with the double view of +rendering the men who had not joined in the conspiracy incapable +from the effects of debauchery in siding with Zohawk, and of +exasperating the ferocious chieftain, who was known to be averse to +any revelry during his absence. The favourite wife summoned all the +harem to a feast, whilst a copious allowance of intoxicating liquor +was served out to the minor portion of the garrison. The wine soon +produced the required effect, and in the midst of the revelry and +uproar the Khān appeared at his castle gate, and without +enquiring the cause of the tumult, instantly proceeded to the +harem, and lifting the Purdah stood in the presence of his wives. +'What is this?' said he, glancing savagely round.––'We +expected your return and have prepared a feast to welcome you,' was +the ironical reply of the favourite wife, who at the same time +trembling in her limbs scarce dared to face the enraged tyrant, 'It +is a lie, offspring of a Kaffir; you shall pay the penalty of your +disobedience of my orders. Here, Saleh, take her and throw her over +the battlements into the river;' but ere the reluctant eunuch could +enforce the cruel mandate, the woman raised her hand, and with a +small dagger pierced herself to the heart. Unmoved by her tragic +fate, Zohawk instantly commanded that four of the other women +should be dealt with in the same way, and seeing the eunuch +hesitate, drew his Persian blade and rushed at him; but ere the +sword fell, the knife of Saleh was sheathed in the ruffian's +breast. "The news of his death spread rapidly through the castle; +then followed the strife of war. The Khān's party, though in +number nearly double that of Saleh, were wearied with their recent +foray, and after a desperate conflict of three hours they were +driven into one of the wings of the castle, and butchered to a man. +Blood flowed in almost every apartment; broken swords, daggers, and +matchlocks lay in all directions, shewing how terrible the strife +had been. And now, when Zohawk's party had been exterminated, a +murmuring arose amongst the victors as to who should be the chief, +and Saleh, perceiving that he should gain nothing for the exertions +he had made, demanded permission to leave the castle, taking with +him as his sole share of booty his sister, who was an inmate of the +harem. His terms were immediately complied with, and the wary +eunuch lost no time in quitting the scene of blood.</p> + +<p>"Those remaining agreed to defer the election of a chief till +they had refreshed themselves after their labours: in the heat of +intoxication blood again flowed, and after passing the whole night +in drinking and fighting, morning appeared to eighteen survivors of +the fray. Each still claimed for himself the chieftainship, and +while still wrangling on the subject, one of the wounded partizans +of Saleh, unperceived by the drunkards, secreted a large bag of +powder in the room, and igniting it by a train with his slow match +crawled out of the castle.</p> + +<p>"The explosion was terrific; down toppled tower and bastion, +enveloping in their ruins the remainder of the garrison, and the +castle was in a few moments reduced to the shapeless mass which it +now presents.</p> + +<p>"The wounded author of the catastrophe alone escaped; but the +knowledge of his crimes prevented him from returning to his +country, and he wandered for many years about the blackened walls, +the terror of the neighbourhood, who considered him an evil spirit. +He subsisted on herbs growing on the adjacent mountains, till at +last he disappeared no one knew where. Since that period, the +fortress has never been the resting place of the traveller or the +haunt of the freebooter."</p> + +<p>Such was the terrible tale of blood and wounds which my +informant communicated to me, and certainly, if it rests its +foundation on any one of the horrors with which it is filled, the +castle of Zohawk does well deserve its bad repute.</p> + +<p>On the 23rd we left Bameeān and proceeded over the +Irāk pass to Oorgundee, where we arrived on the 28th. No event +occurred nor any thing worth mentioning, unless it be the +"naïveté" of an old man, who, observing me light my +cigar with a lucifer-match, asked in a grave and solemn tone, +whether that was indeed fire. I took his finger, and placed it in +the flame, much to his astonishment, but convincing him of its +reality. He then enquired if it was the fire from heaven, which he +heard the Feringhis were possessed of. I endeavoured, but I fear +without success, to explain to the old gentleman the nature of +fulminating substances, and though he listened with patience, he +was evidently still in the dark, when I presented him with the +contents of my match-box and shewed him how to ignite them; his +gratitude was manifest, as he walked off highly pleased with his +toy, which I hope may not have burned his fingers.</p> + +<p>Sturt left me on the 29th, being anxious to get back to Cabul; +but as I had three days to spare, and my taste for wandering was +still unabated, I joined Capt. Westmacott, of the 37th Native +Infantry, in a flying excursion into the valley of Charrikār, +which the Affghāns consider as the garden of Cabul. The first +day we rode from Oorgundee to Shukkur Durra, or "the sugar valley," +so called, not from growing that useful article of grocery, but +from its fertile orchards and extensive vineyards. After a few +miles' ride we crossed a low range of hills, and came upon the +flourishing district of Be-tout,––literally, "without +mulberries." The sagacious reader will justly infer that mulberry +trees were in profusion every where else; indeed so plentiful are +they in general that many of the natives live almost exclusively in +winter upon the fruit, which is dried and reduced to a powder, and +after being mixed with a little milk, or even water, forms a +palatable and nutritious food. The view from the crest of the low +range of hills was really enchanting, and strongly contrasted with +the wild and craggy mountains amongst which we had of late been +struggling. An extensive plain, bounded by high mountains, and +again crowned by the snowy peaks of those more distant, lay before +us, its whole surface dotted with a multitude of white forts +surrounded by a belt of the most vivid green, the barrenness of the +uncultivated spots acting as a foil to the rich vegetation which +springs under the foot of the Affghān husbandman wherever he +can introduce the fertilizing stream. We rode leisurely on through +this wilderness of gardens, till on approaching the village of +Be-tout the loud wail of women hired to pour forth their +lamentations for some misfortune assailed our ears, and on +enquiring we learnt that one of the inhabitants had been murdered +the preceding night under the following circumstances.</p> + +<p>It appears that ten years ago the murdered man (who was a +Persian) had a very pretty daughter, and that a neighbouring chief +hearing of her beauty caused her to be forcibly seized and conveyed +to his own fort. The father, regardless of any consideration but +revenge, arming himself with his long Affghān knife, gained +admission into the chief's house and immediately cut him down and +made his escape. For ten years he concealed himself from the +vengeance of the relatives of the chief, but a few days before he +had returned to his native village, hoping that time would have +softened the vindictiveness of his enemy; but he shewed his +ignorance of the Affghān character, with whom revenge is a +sacred virtue. He had not been long returned, when a nephew of the +chief he had slain shot him through the heart from behind a wall. +As we passed through the village we saw the inhabitants crowding +round the still unburied corpse of the injured father, and our +thoughts were painfully diverted from a contemplation of the +richness and plenty which Providence had vouchsafed to this fertile +spot, to a mournful consideration of the wild passions of man, who +pollutes the earth with the blood of his fellow-creature.</p> + +<p>As we proceeded onwards we came upon those luxuriant vineyards +which produce the famous Kohistān grape, of enormous size as +to berry and bunch, but excelling in delicacy of flavour, in +juiciness, and thinness of skin even the far-famed Muscadel.</p> + +<p>The vines are trained either upon a trellice work or along the +ground, the latter mode being used for the most delicate grape; but +it requires more care and attention, it being necessary while the +fruit is ripening so to trim the plant and thin its foliage, that +the branch may have sufficient sun, and be kept as near as possible +to the earth without touching it. This mode of training is adopted +in the cultivation of the enormous black grape, called from its +size and colour "the cow's-eye." Towards evening we reached the +vicinity of Shukkur Durrah, lying at the extremity of the plain and +backed by mountains of considerable height. Here we encamped for +the night under the shelter of a magnificent walnut tree, in a +small garden adjoining the fort.</p> + +<p>After we had pitched our tents, many Hindoos who trade in fruit, +the staple produce of the country, came to pay their respects, and +one of them informed me that about four miles across the mountains +to the north-west in the Sheikkallee Huzareh country, there were +three lakes so extensive that it occupied a well-mounted horseman a +whole day to ride round them. No European, he said, had ever +visited them; one gentleman, whose name he did not know, had tried +to reach them, but drank so much brandy by the way that he was +obliged to lie down instead, and the guide had great difficulty in +getting him back. I regretted that the expiration of my leave +prevented me from exploring these lakes, which I do not think have +ever been examined by any of our engineers; but I hope that, had I +undertaken the excursion, I should not have fallen into the same +scrape the above mentioned gentleman did. The gardens belonging to +the chief were well worth looking at, with a beautiful stream of +water flowing through the centre, tortured by artificial rocks into +fifty diminutive cataracts.</p> + +<p>We were well satisfied with our quarters, but after night-fall +intimation was given us that unless we kept a sharp look-out it was +very probable we might have some unwelcome intruders before +morning, as a neighbouring fort was hostile to that of Shukkur +Durrah; and moreover, that the inhabitants of the fort itself were +in the utmost dread of a band of desperadoes who infested the +adjacent hills and occasionally paid them a nocturnal visit. +Luckily for us they were in hourly expectation of such an +intrusion, for their fears kept them on the alert, and they had a +watchman on each of the towers, whose sonorous voices proclaimed +every hour of the night. Our guard was now reduced to six, the +remainder being employed to escort Sturt's instruments into Cabul, +so that I really did not much like the appearance of things; when +about midnight my servant reported to me that the sentry saw a +great many lights moving about us.</p> + +<p>I instantly rose and distinctly observed the lighted slow +matches of firearms; there might have been forty or fifty. The +sentry challenged, but the ruffians returned no answer, and +decamped, finding us on the alert, and probably not knowing our +weakness; for had we come to blows our party must have got the +worst of it, though I have not the least doubt that our +Affghān guard would have stood by us even against their own +countrymen.</p> + +<p>The next morning we proceeded along a very pretty road, flanked +by green hedgerows full of wild flowers, and varied occasionally +near the houses with parterres of roses of exquisite fragrance. My +route lay to Bāber's tomb, but Capt. Westmacott being anxious +to reach Cābul could not accompany me, so we parted, mutually +regretting that we had so short a time to spend in this delicious +region. At Bāber's tomb the Kazi of the adjacent village +endeavoured to play off on me a trick, well known to old +campaigners, by assuring me that unless I took from his hands a +guard of at least twelve men (of course paying them for their +services), my life would not be safe during the night. I refused +his guard, and the only annoyance I experienced was from myriads of +musquitoes, who tormented me incessantly throughout the night. I +rode into camp the following day, and was delighted to find myself +once more with my brother officers.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIX">XIX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 24th September I started on another excursion, though +under very different circumstances; our party on this occasion +consisting of Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry, two companies of +the 37th Native Infantry, two squadrons of the Bengal 2nd Cavalry, +a small body of Affghān horsemen under Prince Timour Shah, +three nine-pounders, two 24-inch howitzers, and two 8 1/2-inch +mortars, the whole under the command of Sir Robert Sale, the object +of the expedition being to quell some refractory chiefs inhabiting +the northern and some hilly parts of the Kohistān.</p> + +<p>It would be beyond the sphere of this little book to enter into +a detailed account of our operations in the field, nor do I pretend +to have sufficient materials by me for such a delicate task, in the +execution of which I might by erroneous statements expose myself to +just animadversion.</p> + +<p>I had not, I regret to say, the means of ascertaining with +precision the different causes which had driven these hill chiefs +into rebellion. The footing which Dost Mahomed had lately acquired +in the north-west encouraged them to persist, and it will be seen +in the sequel, that at the disgraceful scene of Purwun Durrah the +Dost was almost a <i>prisoner</i> in the hands of those who were +considered, by the unversed in the intricacies of Affghān +policy, to be only in arms for the restoration of their favourite +to the throne of Cābul.</p> + +<p>Were it in my power to give an accurate description of the +different positions assumed by the enemy, and provided I had the +leisure to survey the ground, then I am well aware that I might +have claimed additional interest for my pages, as I should have +elucidated the mode of warfare peculiar to the Affghāns; but +such an attempt would perhaps carry me out of my depth. I must +therefore be content with remarking, that though in action the +Affghāns acknowledge some guiding chieftain, yet the details +of position are left to each tribe. They have no confidence in each +other; it follows, therefore, that the wisest plan is to turn +either or both flanks, as this manoeuvre is almost sure to require +a change in the original disposition of their force, which they, +for want of good communications between their detached parties, are +unable to effect. Hence confusion arises, and the uncertainty of +support generally causes the whole to retreat. The Affghāns +have great dread of their flanks being turned, and will sometimes +abandon an almost impregnable position in consequence of a +demonstration being made to that effect, which after all could +never have been carried out.</p> + +<p>On the third day after our departure from Cābul, the force +encamped at a place called Vaugh opposite the beautiful +Istālif, whose luxuriant vineyards and magnificent orchards +have before excited the admiration of the traveller. But we had +still some marches to get over before reaching the territories of +the refractory chiefs, and it was not till the 29th that we came to +Toottum Durrah, or valley of mulberries. Here we found the enemy +posted in force, but it was merely an affair of detachments, two +companies of the 13th and two of the 37th being ordered to make a +detour to the right and left, so as to threaten the enemy's flanks. +The main column closing up continued to advance; the enemy did not +make a very determined resistance, yet a chance shot killed poor +Edward Conolly, brother to the victim of the ruffian king of +Bokhara. His––poor fellow!––was a soldier's +death; though we deplore his loss, we know that he died in +honorable warfare; but we have no such consolation for the fate of +his poor brother, and it is with difficulty that his indignant +countrymen can refrain from imprecating the vengeance of God upon +the cowardly destroyer of so much talent and virtue.</p> + +<p>The enemy made no further stand this day, and we proceeded about +fifteen miles down the valley to Julghur, destroying before our +departure the mud forts of Toottum Durrah. At Julghur the enemy +shewed more resistance; they trusted in the strength of their fort, +and we perhaps too much to its weakness. The result was, that a +wing of the 13th, not more than one hundred and twenty strong, +suffered a loss of fourteen men killed and seventeen wounded, and +the enemy were eventually shelled out by the batteries under the +direction of Capt. Abbott.</p> + +<p>The following morning we buried our gallant companions, amongst +them our respected serjeant-major (Airey), in one deep grave; but a +report was current, that shortly after our departure, the bodies +had been disinterred and exposed in front of the grave, that every +Affghān might witness and exult in the disgrace to which they +had subjected the corpses of the Feringhis.</p> + +<p>This is but a single instance of the hatred which actuated our +enemy, and when we consider the exasperating effects of these +cowardly outrages on the minds of the soldiery, we should the more +admire the generosity and clemency of the British in the hour of +victory. I am aware that ill-informed people have accused our +armies in Affghanistān, especially after the advance of +General Pollock's force, of many acts of cruelty to the natives, +but I can emphatically deny the justice of the accusation. Some few +instances of revenge for past injuries did occur, but I am sure +that an impartial soldier would rather admire the forbearance of +men who for days had been marching over the mangled remains of the +Cābul army.</p> + +<p>But to return to the Kohistān. On the 4th of October we +took a transverse direction westward, crossing the plain of +Buggrām, supposed to be the site of the "Alexandria ad Calcem +Caucasi" of the ancients; numerous coins, gems, and relics of +antiquity are found hereabouts, particularly subsequently to the +melting of the snows. Formerly they were considered useless, but +when our enterprising countrymen and the army of the Indus found +their way to Cābul, these memorials of the Greek had ready +purchasers amongst the numismatologists of the British force. At +the same time the Cābulese considered it great folly our +exchanging the current coin for what were in their estimation +useless pieces of old silver and copper.</p> + +<p>Throughout the marches and countermarches which it was necessary +for us to make in the northern districts of the Kohistān, in +order to prevent the enemy from gathering together, we were much +interested by the varied beauty of the scenery; and it must +candidly be admitted that our ignorance as to the nature or amount +of force we might any day find opposed to us by no means diminished +our excitement. Rather an extraordinary phenomenon occurs in a +small range of hills detached from the parent mountains, a little +to the northward of the fort of Julghur. From top to bottom of the +precipitous side of one of these spurs extends a light golden +streak, rather thicker and less highly coloured at the bottom than +at the top. I was unable to approach it nearer than about four +miles, but I was credibly informed that the streak was in reality +what its appearance first suggested to my mind, a body of fine sand +continually flowing over the side of the hill, and depositing its +volumes in a heap at the base of the mountain. I might perhaps in a +windy day have ascertained the correctness of the report, as then +the sandy cascade would appear as a cloud of dust, but the weather +was calm during the whole time we were in its vicinity. It is +called by the natives the Regrowān or flowing sand. Being no +geologist, I refrain from offering any suggestions as to its cause, +but merely state what I saw and heard.</p> + +<p>After marching about the country for some days like the Paladins +of old in search of adventure, we turned our faces once more +towards Cābul and encamped near Kara-bagh. While here, a scene +occurred which will doubtless be still in the recollection of many +officers with the force, and which I relate as illustrative of the +barbarous customs of the people. Many of the stories which I have +introduced must of course be received by the impartial or +incredulous reader "cum grano salis." I have given them as they +were repeated to me, but I can personally vouch for the following +fact.</p> + +<p>Our bugles had just sounded the first call to dinner, when a few +officers who were strolling in front of the camp observed a woman +with a black veil walking hurriedly from some dark-looking object, +and proceed in the direction of that part of the camp occupied by +the Affghan force under Prince Timour Shah, the Shah Zada, heir +apparent to the throne of Cābul. On approaching the object, it +was discovered to be a man lying on the ground with his hands tied +behind him, his throat half severed, with three stabs in his +breast, and two gashes across the stomach. The mangled wretch was +still breathing, and a medical man being at hand, measures were +instantly taken most calculated to save his life, but without +success, and in a quarter of an hour he was a corpse. Familiar as +we were with scenes which in our own happy land would have excited +the horror and disgust of every man possessed of the common +feelings of humanity, there was something in this strange murder +which caused us to make enquiries, and the reader will hardly +believe me when I tell him that the victim met his fate with the +knowledge and consent of Timour Shah. The woman whom we first +observed was the legal murderess. She had that morning been to the +Shah Zada and sworn on the Korān that the deceased many years +back had murdered her husband and ran away with his other wife; she +had demanded redress according to the Mahommedan +law––blood for blood. The Shah Zada offered the woman a +considerable sum of money if she would waive her claim to right of +personally inflicting the punishment on the delinquent, and allow +the man to be delivered over to his officers of justice, promising +a punishment commensurate with the crime he had committed. But the +woman persisted in her demand for the law of the Korān. Her +victim was bound and delivered into her hands; she had him +conducted in front of the prince's camp about three hundred yards +off, and effected her inhuman revenge with an Affghān knife, a +fit instrument for such a purpose.</p> + +<p>Before returning to Cābul it was deemed requisite to punish +the rebellious owner of the fort of Babboo-koosh-Ghur. On the +approach of our force he decamped with all his vassals, and as it +was advisable to leave some permanent mark of our displeasure, the +bastions were blown down with gunpowder. It seems that the enemy +imagined we were very negligent in camp, for they honored us the +same evening with one of their night attacks, for which they are +famous, the object in general being rather to harass their +adversary by keeping him on the alert than to penetrate to his +tents.</p> + +<p>On the present occasion they commenced a distant fusillade upon +the left of our line, extending it gradually along nearly the whole +face; a few rounds of grape from the artillery soon cleared +<i>their</i> front, but the enemy continued for above three hours a +random fire upon the left, and, strange to say, they kept aloof +from the European troops, who were encamped as usual on the right +of the line. The artillery horses being picketted in soft ground +soon drew their iron pegs, and having thus obtained their liberty, +scampered up and down in rear of the troops and amongst the tents, +thereby considerably adding to the confusion and uproar. On the +alarm first sounding every light was extinguished in the camp, and +well was it that these precautionary measures were adopted, for a +great portion of the standing tents were riddled. The enemy fired +without aim, and we were fortunate enough to lose only one sepoy; +we could not ascertain the amount of casualty amongst them, but +from the sudden cessation of any attack upon that part of the line +where the artillery was stationed, we concluded that the rounds of +grape must have told with considerable effect.</p> + +<p>After midnight the enemy withdrew, and when at a distance of +about half a mile from our outposts gave a shout of defiance, +perhaps to draw a party from the camp to pursue them, which, +however, was not done, or rejoicing at the havoc they imagined to +have made in our ranks. We heard afterwards that the Affghāns +with their usual superstition had remembered that many years ago a +large army had been attacked on the same ground we then occupied +and annihilated, and that probably a like success would crown their +efforts in the present instance.</p> + +<p>This night attack rendered some further demonstration of our +powers of retaliation necessary, particularly as a portion of our +adversaries were from the fort of Kardurrah, to which we proceeded +the next day and easily captured, the enemy retiring to the hills +on our advance, abandoning a strong and easily defended position, +for their flank could not have been turned without incurring +considerable loss, if the fort of Kardurrah had been held in a +determined manner. It was generally remarked as being a +particularly strong place, the approach leading through orchards +surrounded by mud walls six or seven feet high and loopholed, the +lanes intersecting them being barricadoed as if to be held to the +last extremity.</p> + +<p>Probably such was their valiant intention, but it seems they +were bewildered by our attacking them from different points, and +not trusting to each other for support, all took to their heels. +The undulating ground was strewn with masses of detached rocks, and +they had also built up several small but substantial stone +breast-works, so that altogether we had reason to congratulate +ourselves on their unexpected retreat.</p> + +<p>The women had been previously conveyed away with the heavy +baggage, and we found the houses empty, but fruit of every +description was lying about the streets, prepared and packed for +the winter supply of the Cābul market. Melons, peaches, pears, +walnuts were either in heaps against the walls or placed in baskets +for transportation; but the most curious arrangement was exhibited +in the mode in which they preserved their brobdignag grapes for +winter consumption. About thirty berries, each of enormous size and +separately enveloped in cotton, were hermetically enclosed between +a couple of rudely shaped clay saucers, so that we were obliged to +crack the saucers to get at the fruit inside, and great was the +scrambling amongst the thirsty soldiers for their luscious contents +as they rolled out upon the ground.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XX">XX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>The thread of my narrative now guides me to an event which +cannot be contemplated without astonishment and regret. I allude to +the unaccountable panic which seized the 2nd Cavalry during the +action at Purwan Durrah; indeed I would willingly pass it over in +silence, but I am anxious to express my humble admiration of the +chivalrous bearing of the European officers on that melancholy +occasion.</p> + +<p>The several severe blows which we had recently inflicted upon +the Affghāns during the course of this short compaign, and +their not having lately appeared in any organized force in the +vicinity of our camp, caused an opinion to prevail amongst many +that our labours for the season were brought to a close; but on the +20th of October we were again excited by the rumour that Dost +Mahommed, who had been hovering about, intended as a +"dernière ressource" once more to try his fortune in war. +Our anticipations of a little more active service were soon +realized by an order to advance upon Purwan Durrah. We accordingly +struck our tents, passing by Aukserai, and encamped near Meer +Musjedi's fortress, remaining there till the 3rd of November +watching the movements of the enemy. On that day information was +received that the Dost, with a large body of horse and foot, was +moving towards us by the Purwan Durrah; the general decided upon +checking his progress, and an advanced guard consisting of four +companies of the 13th under Major Kershaw, two companies of Native +Infantry, two nine-pounders, and two squadrons of the 2nd Bengal +Cavalry, the whole under the command of Col. Salter of the 2nd +Cavalry, preceded the main column. On the road we met a follower of +one of the friendly chiefs charged with a report that the +ex-Ameer's party had been attacking some of the forts in the +valley, but for the present had taken up a position on the +neighbouring hills. We soon came on them, and at a short distance +perceived a small body of cavalry in the plain. A rumour passed +through our ranks that Dost Mahommed was himself amongst the +horsemen, and it was a subject of congratulation that the only +opportunity had now arrived of our cavalry engaging theirs, and +that one brilliant attack would bring this desultory warfare to a +glorious termination.</p> + +<p>The squadrons under the command of the gallant Fraser were +ordered to advance, and moved steadily forward at a trot; all eyes +were fixed upon them––the men were apparently +steady––and even the least sanguine could hardly doubt +the result of a shock of disciplined cavalry on an irregular body +of horse not half their numerical strength.</p> + +<p>But when the word to charge was given, an uncontrolled panic +seized the troopers; instead of putting their horses into a gallop +and dashing forward to certain victory, the pace gradually +slackened; in vain did their officers use every effort to urge the +men on––in vain did the spirit-stirring trumpet sound +the charge––the troopers were spell-bound by the demon +of fear; the trot became a walk, then a halt; and then, forgetful +of their duty, their honor, and their officers, they wheeled about +and shamefully fled.</p> + +<p>But not for one single instant did Fraser hesitate; with a +bitter and well-merited expression of contempt at this unmanly +desertion, he briefly said, "We must charge alone," and dashing +spurs into his horse, he rushed to an almost certain fate, followed +by Ponsonby, Crispin, Broadfoot, Dr. Lord, and by about a dozen of +his men, who all preferred an honourable death to an ignominious +life.</p> + +<p>The feelings of disgust mingled with intense admiration with +which this unparalleled scene was viewed by the infantry can be +better imagined than expressed; and those who under similar trying +circumstances would have endeavoured to imitate the heroism of +their countrymen, could scarce subdue a thrill of horror as this +handful of brave soldiers galloped forward. The intrepid Fraser, +mounted upon a large and powerful English horse, literally hewed a +lane for himself through the astonished Affghans; and Ponsonby +too––for I am weary of seeking fresh epithets for their +unsurpassable conduct––on a strong Persian mare, for a +time bore down all opposition. Dost Mahommed himself, though in +some personal danger from the impetuosity of this desperate charge, +could not restrain his admiration.</p> + +<p>The event fully proved the danger incurred. Dr. Lord, Crispin, +and Broadfoot upheld the glory of their country to the last, and +fell covered with many wounds. Fraser and Ponsonby were both +desperately hacked, and owed their lives to their horses becoming +unmanageable, bearing their riders from the midst of the enemy. The +reins of Ponsonby's bridle were cut, and he himself grievously +wounded in the face, while Fraser's arm was nearly severed in two; +neither did their horses escape in the conflict, as both bore deep +gashes of the Affghān blades.</p> + +<p>While the European officers were thus sacrificing themselves in +the execution of their duty, the dastard troopers came galloping in +amongst the infantry of the advanced guard, some of whom were with +difficulty restrained from inflicting on the spot the punishment +they so well deserved.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the enemy's cavalry, flushed with success, advanced +against the infantry with colours flying and loud shoutings, as in +expectation of an easy victory. But the infantry were prepared to +receive them, and a few rounds from the nine-pounders soon caused +them to halt; finding that their antagonists were not under the +same influence as the cavalry, they gave up the attack and retired +to a distant position on the hills. The steady advance of the 37th +N.I. from the main body of our forces, together with a few +judiciously thrown shells, soon drove their infantry to a more +elevated range of hills; and before sunset we had quiet possession +of the field.</p> + +<p>We had the melancholy satisfaction of finding the bodies of our +comrades, whom we buried at night in one large grave, and +performing the solemn service of the dead by torchlight. There is +no chance of their being forgotten: so long as gallantry is admired +and honour revered amongst British soldiers, so long will they +remember Fraser's charge at Purwan Durrah.</p> + +<p>I am loath to dwell on the misconduct of the troopers; as far as +I am enabled to ascertain it was unexpected by the officers. Some, +indeed, declare that previous disaffection existed amongst the men; +others say that the troopers being Mussulmen did not like to charge +against Dost Mahommed himself, whom they considered as their +religious chief; but I think we may fairly attribute their flight +to downright <i>cowardice</i>, as no complaint or cause was +assigned by the men previous to encountering the foe. Whatever be +the truth, the event was most unfortunate, for it appears that the +Dost was even previous to the action anxious to throw himself upon +the protection of the British, but his followers would not permit +him to do so; nevertheless, on the evening of that day he managed +to elude their vigilance, and riding directly to Cābul met the +envoy Sir William M'Naghten taking his evening ride, and +surrendered himself into his hands.</p> + +<p>The news of this event of course put an end to further +hostilities, and on the 7th of November we returned to Cābul, +heartily glad once more to get comfortably housed, as the winter +was rapidly approaching and the nights severely cold.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>THE END.</h6> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>LIST OF <a name="PLATES">PLATES.</a></h6> + +<br /> + +<p><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece</a> (Outer Cave at Yeermallik)</p> +<p>View of the <a href="#Outer_Cave_of_Yeermallik">Outer Cave of +Yeermallik</a>, shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern.</p> + +<p><a href="#Map">Map</a> of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route +to Koollum.</p> + +<p>View of the <a href="#Ice_Caves">Ice Caves</a> in the Cavern of +Yeermallik.</p> + +<p>View of <a href="#Koollum">Koollum</a> from the Eastward.</p> + +<p>Fac-Simile Drawings of <a href="#Ancient_Coins">Ancient +Coins</a> found in Toorkisthan and Affghanistan, in the possession +of Capt. Burslem, as follows:<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<table width="100%" summary="List of Coins"> +<tr> +<td width="8%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 1.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 2.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 3.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 4.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 5.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 6.<br /> +<br /> +No. 7.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 8.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 9.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 10.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A Bactrian coin: +legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from the Greek lettering, +Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a tuckt or throne, with +his right arm extended.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated from +the Greek lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, +holding in one hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse +bears Pelhvic characters.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus megal] is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the +Great, of which I have no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he +reigned in Bactria 181 B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, +with the figures of two warriors mounted.<br /> +<br /> + A square silver coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the +inscription, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. The reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is a +woman holding a flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to +be a Kanirkos coin.<br /> +<br /> + A round silver Indo-Scythian coin.<br /> +<br /> + A square silver coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an +elephant, with the Bactrian monogram +beneath––[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus +pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The characters and +figures on this coin are very distinct.<br /> +<br /> + Another coin of Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis +elevated: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. On the reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable +coin.<br /> +<br /> + A gold coin, supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The legend +begins with Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a naked +figure, with the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but in +copper, have been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. +Lady Sale considers this coin to be a great beauty and of +value.<br /> +<br /> + A gem found in the plain of Buggram.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>Maps</h4> + +<br /> +<h6><a name="Map">Map</a> of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route +to Koollum.</h6> + +<br /> + + +<br /> +<br /> +<img src="images/map-cabul.png" width="2872" height="4125" alt="Map-Cabul-Kohistan" border="0" /> +<p>Zoom Level = 1:2, therefore Map Scale = 16 miles to an inch.</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbbe861 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8abffdc --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d347d2f --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce19bdd --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d436a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..995200e --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..99b07af --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..678143a --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg b/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2bf04f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/gem.jpg b/11902-h/images/gem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19e185f --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/gem.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png b/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5fcdaac --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png diff --git a/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif b/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8de0263 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif diff --git a/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg b/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..82f9f38 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg b/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1accae --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg b/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7d925a --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg diff --git a/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png b/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e39b135 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png diff --git a/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg b/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9de1436 --- /dev/null +++ b/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..74fda6a --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #11902 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/11902) diff --git a/old/11902-0.txt b/old/11902-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..50ac61c --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4315 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 *** +A + +PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN. + + + + +BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM, + +THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY. + + +1846. + + + * * * * * + + +[Transcriber's Note: [=a] is representing a-macron, unicode character +U0101, and [=A] is representing A-macron, unicode character U0100. +This is usually pronounced as a long a. +There are around 240 instances of vowels accented with macrons +(straight line above), mostly A-macron or a-macron, with one instance +of e-macron, and five instances of u-macron, and one u that should be +u-macron(Dao[=u]b) and isn't (Daoub). + +Use of the macron is _not_ consistent throughout the text... + +...and the spelling of some place names is not consistent either: +e.g. Toorkisth[=an]; Toorkisthan; Toorkistan. + + +(There are also a number of words with 'unusual' spellings. + +These spellings I have corrected: + +territories for territorities; retrograde for retrogade; amongst for amonst. + + +These 'period' spellings I have left intact: + +befel, chace, surprized, loth, gallopped, gallopping, secresy, shew, shewed, +shewing, preeminence, handfull, negociation, threshhold, trellice, +picketted, barricadoed, compaign. + +I have also retained M'Naghten for the modern McNaghten.)] + + * * * * * + + + + +[Illustration: Drawn by Mr Gompertz Pelham Richardson Litho. View of +the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger +Cavern] + + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: MAP OF CABUL AND THE KOHISTAN WITH THE ROUTE FOR +KOOLLUM] + + + * * * * * + + +A PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN. + +BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM, THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY. + +1846. + + + + +TO THE + +RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARNARVON, HIGHCLERE CASTLE. + + +MY LORD, + +Having received your Lordship's permission to dedicate to you this my +first essay as an Author, I beg to tender my best acknowledgements for +the honour, and for the interest you have so kindly expressed in the +success of the following pages. Under such favourable auspices a +successful result may be confidently anticipated by + +Your Lordship's Obliged and obedient servant, + +ROLLO BURSLEM. + +HAREWOOD LODGE, HAMPSHIRE. + + + + +TO THE READER. + + +The following pages are literally what they profess to be, a record +of a few weeks snatched from a soldier's life in Affghanist[=a]n, and +spent in travels through a region which few Europeans have ever visited +before. The notes from which it is compiled were written on the desert +mountains of Central Asia, with very little opportunity, as will be +easily supposed, for study or polish. Under these circumstances, it can +hardly be necessary to deprecate the criticism of the reader. +Composition is not one of the acquirements usually expected of a +soldier. What is looked for in his narrative is not elegance, but +plainness. He sees more than other people, but he studies less, and the +strangeness of his story must make up for the want of ornament. I can +hardly expect but that the reader may consider the style of my chapters +inferior to many of those which are supplied to the public by those who +are fortunate enough to enjoy good libraries and plenty of leisure; two +advantages which a soldier on service seldom experiences. But this I +cannot help. Such as they are, I offer him my unadorned notes; and +perhaps he will be good enough to let one thing compensate another, and +to recollect that if the style of the book is different from what he +sometimes sees, yet the scenery is so too. If instead of a poetical +composition he gets a straightforward story, yet instead of the Rhine +or the Lakes he gets a mountain chain between Independent Tartary and +China. + +WALMAR BARRACKS, _March_, 1846. + + + + +A PEEP INTO TOORKISTH[=A]N.[*] + +[* Note: A portion of the following pages in their original form has +appeared in the Asiatic Journal.] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +During the summer of 1840, the aspect of the political horizon in +Affghanist[=a]n afforded but slight grounds for prognosticating the +awful catastrophe which two short years after befel the British arms. +Dost Mahommed had not yet given himself up, but was a fugitive, and +detained by the King of Bokhara, while many of the principal Sirdars +had already tendered their allegiance to Shah Sooja: and there was in +truth some foundation for the boast that an Englishman might travel +in safety from one end of Affghanist[=a]n to the other. An efficient +force of tried soldiers occupied Ghuzni, Cabul, Candahar, Jellalabad, +and the other strongholds of the country; our outposts were pushed +to the north-west some fifty miles beyond Bamee[=a]n, the Khyber +and Bolun passes were open, and to the superficial observer all was +tranquil. The elements of strife indeed existed, but at the time when +I took the ramble which these pages attempt to describe, British +power was paramount, and the rumour was already rife of the speedy +diminution of the force which supported it. + +Notwithstanding the modern rage for exploration, but few of our +countrymen have hitherto pierced the stupendous barrier of the +Paropamisan range; but the works of Hanway, Forster, Moorcroft, and +Trebeck, Masson, and Sir Alexander Burnes, convey most valuable +information concerning the wild regions through which they travelled, +and I am bound in simple honesty to confess that my little book does +not aspire to rank with publications of such standard merit. An +author's apology, however humble and sincere, is seldom attended to +and more rarely accepted. Surely I am not wrong in assuming that a +feeling of mournful interest will pervade the bosom of those who have +the patience to follow my perhaps over-minute description of places +whose names may be already familiar to them as connected with the +career of those bold spirits who in life devoted their energies to the +good of their country and the advancement of science, and who in the +hour of disaster, when every hope was dead, met their fate with the +unflinching gallantry of soldiers and the patient resignation of +Christians. + +My lamented friend, Lieutenant Sturt, of the Bengal Engineers, was +one of the foremost of those who endeavoured, during the critical +situation of the Cabul force previous to its annihilation, to rally +the drooping spirits of the soldiers; and without wishing in any way +to reflect on others, it may fairly be said that his scientific +attainments and personal exertions contributed not a little to those +partial successes, which to the sanguine seemed for a moment to +restore the favourable aspect of our military position. But I forbear +from now dwelling upon these circumstances, lest I might undesignedly +give pain to those who still survive the fatal event, merely stating +my humble opinion that the memory of any mistake committed, either in +a political or military light, will by the noble-minded be drowned in +sorrow for the sufferings and death of so many thousands of brave men. + +In the month of June, 1840, Lieutenant Sturt was ordered to survey the +passes of the Hindoo Koosh, and I obtained leave from my regiment, +then in camp at Cabul, for the purpose of accompanying him; my object +was simply to seek pleasant adventures; the "_cacoethes ambulandi_" +was strong upon me, and I thirsted to visit the capital of ancient +Bactria; the circumstances which prevented our reaching Balkh will +hereafter be detailed, but the main object of the expedition was +attained, as Sturt executed an excellent map of the passes alluded to, +and satisfactorily demonstrated that almost all the defiles of this +vast chain, or rather group of mountains, may be turned, and that it +would require a large and active well-disciplined force to defend the +principal ones. I have made every possible inquiry as to the fate of +the results of Sturt's labours, but fear that they too were lost +in the dreadful retreat. Whatever still exists must be in the +Quarter-Master General's Department in India, far out of my reach, so +that I am obliged again to request the indulgence of my reader for the +want of a proper map on which he might, if he felt so inclined, trace +our daily progress,[*] and to crave his forgiveness if I occasionally +repeat what has been far more ably related by Moorcroft and the other +authors whom I have already mentioned. + +[* Note: Since receiving the proof sheets for correction I have been +kindly supplied by my friend Major Wade with a map taken principally +from the one executed by the late Lieutenant Sturt.] + +To the traveller whose experience of mountain scenery is confined to +Switzerland, the bold rocks and rich though narrow valleys of the +frontiers of Toorkisth[=a]n offer all the charms of novelty; the lower +ranges of hills are gloomy and shrubless, contrasting strikingly with +the dazzling, yet distant splendour of the snowy mountains. It is +an extraordinary fact, that throughout the whole extent of country +occupied by these under features, which presents every variety of form +and geological structure, there are scarcely any hills bearing trees +or even shrubs; every valley, however, is intersected by its native +stream, which in winter pursues its headlong course with all the +impetuosity of a mountain torrent, but in the summer season glides +calmly along as in our native meadows. + +The multitude and variety of well-preserved fossils which are imbedded +in the different strata of the Toorkisth[=a]n hills would amply reward +the researches of the Geologist, and to the Numismatologist this +portion of Asia proves eminently interesting, Balkh and other +localities in its vicinity abounding in ancient coins, gems, and other +relics of former days; and I much regret that I was unable to reach +the field from whence I expected to gather so rich a harvest. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +In accordance with the golden rule of restricting our baggage to the +least possible weight and compass, we allowed ourselves but one pony a +piece for our necessaries, in addition to what were required for our +small tent and cooking utensils, Sturt's surveying instruments being +all carried by Affgh[=a]n porters whom he hired at Cabul for that +purpose. + +On the 13th of June we commenced our ramble, intending to proceed +to Balkh by the road through Bamee[=a]n, as we should then have to +traverse the principal passes of the Hindoo Khosh, and our route would +be that most likely to be selected by an army either advancing from +Bokh[=a]r[=a] on Cabul or moving in the opposite direction. The +plundering propensities of the peasantry rendered an escort absolutely +necessary, and ours consisted of thirty Affghans belonging to one of +Shah Soojah's regiments, under the command of Captain Hopkins. As +Government took this opportunity of sending a lac[*] of rupees for the +use of the native troop of Horse-Artillery stationed at Bamee[=a]n, +our military force was much increased by the treasure-guard of eighty +Sipahis and some remount horses; so that altogether we considered our +appearance quite imposing enough to secure us from any insult from +the predatory tribes through whose haunts we proposed travelling. Our +first day's march was merely to make a fair start, for we encamped two +miles north-west of the city in a grove of mulberry-trees, and the +wind, as usual in summer, blowing strong in the day-time, laid the +produce at our feet; so that by merely stretching out our hands, we +picked up the fruit in abundance; for although the sun was powerful, +we preferred the open air under the deep foliage to the closeness of +a tent. During the early part of the night an alarm was raised +throughout our small camp, and as we knew the vicinity of Cabul to +be infested with the most persevering thieves, we naturally enough +attributed the disturbance to their unwelcome visit, but it turned out +to be only one of the remount horses, which having broken away from +his picket was scampering furiously round our tents, knocking over +the chairs, tables, and boxes which had been placed in readiness for +packing outside the tent door. The neighing of the other horses, +and their struggles to get loose and have a fight with their more +fortunate companion, added to the braying of donkeys, barking of dogs, +and groaning of the camels, gave me the notion of a menagerie in a +state of insurrection. The affair looked serious when the animal began +to caper amongst Sturt's instruments, but luckily we secured him +before any damage was done, though for some time theodolites, +sextants, artificial horizons, telescopes, and compasses were in +imminent danger. The worst of an occurrence of this kind is, that your +servants once disturbed never think of returning to rest when quiet is +restored, but sit up for the remainder of the night, chatting over the +event with such warmth and animation, as effectually to keep their +master awake as well as each other. We started next morning at four, +and marched about six miles and a half, the distances being always +measured with a perambulator, the superintending of which gave Sturt +considerable trouble, as it was necessary to have an eye perpetually +on the men who guided it, lest they should have recourse to the usual +practice of _carrying_ the machine, whenever the nature of the ground +made that mode of transportation more convenient than _wheeling_. +This, together with taking bearings, and the other details of +surveying, gave my companion plenty of occupation, not only during the +march, but for the rest of the day when halted. + +We were now encamped close to a village called Kulla Kazee, a place of +no very good repute as regarding honesty; indeed, we were well aware +of the predatory propensities of our neighbours; but we seemed +destined to experience more annoyance from the great apprehension of +being attacked which existed amongst our followers, than from any +well-founded anticipation of it; their fears were not totally +groundless, as it must be confessed that to a needy and disorganized +population the bait of a lac of rupees was very tempting. + +[*Note: lac, lakh (-k), n. (Anglo-Ind.). A hundred thousand +(usu._ of rupees)_.] + +We had chosen a picturesque little garden for our resting place, the +treasure and remount horses with the Sipahi guard being encamped about +half a mile off to our rear. At about eleven at night the European +sergeant in charge of the horses burst into our tent in some +consternation, stating that a large band of robbers were descending +from the adjacent hills to attack the treasure. Sturt immediately +jumped up, and mounting his horse gallopped off to the supposed scene +of action. All was quiet _without_ the camp; _within_ there was a +terrible bustle, which Sturt at last succeeded in allaying by sending +out patrols in various direction, who reported that nothing could be +either heard or seen of the dreaded robbers. Being rather averse to +these nocturnal diversions, especially as they promised to be of +frequent occurrence, I made careful inquiries to ascertain if there +were any real foundation for the alarm, but all I could learn was, +that the neighbourhood had always been noted for robbers, who hasten +towards the point upon the report of any party worth plundering +passing near any of their forts. Possibly some robbers had gained +intelligence of our treasure, and had actually appeared on the hills, +but on discovering the strength of our party had retired. + +The next day our route lay through delicious fields of ripening +clover, in such profusion that the air was impregnated with its +agreeable perfume, to a small fort called Oorghundee, remarkable +chiefly for being the head-quarters of the oft-mentioned thieves, of +whom I daresay the reader is as tired as we were after the mere dread +they inspired had caused us to pass two sleepless nights. But we were +now determined to assume a high tone, and summoning the chief of the +fort, or, in other words, the biggest villain, into our presence, +we declared that in the event of our losing a single article of our +property or being annoyed by a night attack, we would retaliate in the +morning by cutting the surrounding crops and setting fire to the fort! + +The military reader, especially if conversant with some of the +peculiarities of eastern discipline, will question how far we should +have been justified in carrying our threats into execution. I can +assure him we had no such intention; but be that as it may, our +threats had the desired effect, and at length we enjoyed an +uninterrupted night's rest. + +On the morning of the 16th we proceeded to Koteah Shroof, the whole +distance being about ten miles: but the first three brought us to the +extremity of the beautiful valley through which we had been travelling +ever since we left Cabul. The aspect of the country in the immediate +vicinity of our path has been well described by one of the most +lamented victims to Affghan ingratitude and treachery. "If the reader +can imagine," writes Sir Alexander Burnes, "a plain about twenty +miles in circumference, laid out with gardens and fields in pleasing +irregularity, intersected by three rivulets which wind through it by +a serpentine course, and dotted with innumerable little forts and +villages, he will have before him one of the meadows of Cabul." To +complete the picture the reader must conceive the grey barren hills, +which, contrasting strongly with the fertility of the plains they +encompass, are themselves overlooked by the eternal snows of the +Indian Caucasus. To the English exile these valleys have another +attraction, for in the hot plains of Hindoostan artificial grasses are +rarely to be found, and the rich scent of luxuriant clover forcibly +reminds the wanderer of the sweet-smelling fields of his native land. + +But these pleasing associations were soon dispelled by the steep and +rugged features of the pass through which we ascended on leaving the +plain. It is called the Suffaed K[=a]k or White Earth, and we found by +the barometer, that the gorge of the ravine was about a thousand feet +above our last encamping ground. The hills on either side were ragged +and abrupt, but of insignificant height: the length of the pass itself +was about two miles, and from its head to Koteah Shroof the road was +stony and difficult; but, as we had been careful at starting not to +overload our baggage animals, they got through their work without +being much distressed. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +I find it difficult to convey to the reader an adequate conception +of the strange character of the hilly country we had now entered: no +parts of Wales or even the varied groupings of the Swiss mountains +offer a correct analogy. After passing the defile of the Suffaed +K[=a]k the hills recede to a distance of about two miles on either +side of the road, and the whole space thus offered to the labours of +the peasant is very highly cultivated; but the barren rocks soon hem +in the narrow valley, and as you approach nearer and nearer you +find your enchanting gardens transformed into a dreary and desolate +defile,--this succession of small plots of fertile ground, alternating +with short rugged passes, extends to Julrez, ten miles beyond Koteah +Shroof; which latter place is an insignificant fort, situated in the +centre of one of the little green spots so pleasingly varying this +part of the country. + +At Koteah Shroof we gained the banks of the Cabul river, a placid +flowing stream, and as the neighbourhood of our camp did not offer any +features of peculiar interest, I determined to try my luck in fishing; +but first I had to tax my ingenuity for implements, as I had neither +rod, line, nor net. A willow stick and a bit of string was all I could +command; and yet my primitive apparatus was very successful, for the +fish also were primitive, affording me ample sport and taking the bait +with extraordinary eagerness. My occupation attracted the attention of +a few peasants who gathered round me, and stood wondering what potent +charm attached to the string could entice the fish from their native +element. I endeavoured to explain the marvel, but was utterly +unsuccessful; indeed, the peasants did not accept my explanation, +which they evidently considered as a fabrication invented to deceive +them and conceal my supernatural powers. The inhabitants of these +valleys seemed a simple and inoffensive race, and, as in Europe, their +respectful demeanour became more conspicuous as we increased our +distance from the capital. + +With regard to the state of cultivation of this valley--in which it +resembles others generally throughout Affghanistan--wherever there is +soil enough to hold the seed, the Affgh[=a]n husbandman appears to +make the most of it. We found here and there in profusion the pear, +apple, cherry, mulberry, and luxuriant vine, and in some situations +wheat, with an under-crop of clover. + +On the 17th we proceeded to Julrez, a collection of wretched hovels +of no interest, and on the 18th, after a march of ten miles through +a succession of valleys and defiles, we reached the Kuzzilbash fort, +Suffaed Kulla. About two miles before we arrived at our encamping +ground we passed near the Sir-e-chusm or "fountain head," one of +the sources of the Cabul river; it is a large pool stocked with a +multitude of enormous fish that are held sacred by the few inhabitants +of the adjoining hamlets, and which are daily fed by an aged fanatic, +who for many years has devoted himself to their protection. As it +would be deemed in the highest degree sacrilegious to eat any of these +monsters, they are never molested, and are so tame as to come readily +to the hand when offered food. Of course, my necessary compliance with +the prejudices of the guardian of the fish prevented the exercise of +my Waltonian propensities. + +A little further on is a remarkable bourj or _watch-tower_ isolated on +a projecting rock, and supposed to have been built for the purpose of +giving the chiefs of the little plain below, when at variance with the +neighbouring mountaineers, notice of the approaching invader. At this +point the valley is extremely narrow, being almost choked up with huge +masses of rock hurled by the violence of some convulsion of nature +from the sides of the impending precipices. + +There are several minor forts in the vicinity of Suffaed Kulla, which +is the largest, and is at present occupied by a Kuzzilbash chief, +who took advantage a few years ago of the temporary absence of its +rightful owner, and acting upon the principle of "might makes right," +possessed himself forcibly of it, and has held it ever since. He +treated us with great kindness and attention, sending us most +acceptable presents of fruit, with food for our followers and cattle. + +We here experienced to a great degree that remarkable daily variation +of temperature so peculiar to these regions: in the gully the wind was +bleak and cold, but when encamped under the shelter of the fort the +heat from the sun's rays reflected from the smooth surface of the bare +rock was so intense that the thermometer rose to 100 of Fahrenheit. +While in camp at Cabul I frequently experienced the same rapid change, +for it would sometimes be a hard frost at day-break and an Indian +summer heat at mid-day. + +On the 19th of June we started very early, as the tremendous Oonnye +pass rising to the height of 11,400 feet lay before us, and we had a +full ten miles march ere we could reach our proposed halting place at +the village of Uart. We soon entered the mouth of the pass, which was +girt on either side by magnificent precipices; the road was narrow and +slippery--of course without even an apology for a parapet--running +along a natural ledge on the verge of a perpendicular cliff, and so +_sheer_ was the side, that from a horse's back you might +sometimes have dropped a stone into the apparently bottomless +ravine--bottomless, for the rays of a noon-day sun have never broken +the eternal darkness of the awful chasm beneath. Had horse, camel, +or man missed their footing whilst scrambling up the steep and stony +pathway, nothing could have saved them from being dashed to pieces. +Frequently, when rounding some projecting crag, the small treasure-box +fastened on the camel literally overhung the abyss, and I held my +breath and the pulsations of my heart increased as I watched horse +after horse and camel after camel weather the critical point. + +Before we reached Uart a poor woman of the Huzareh tribe (the most +persecuted and enslaved throughout these regions) came and complained +to us that her child had been seized by a band of plunderers, as she +supposed, to be sold into slavery. Sturt immediately despatched a +couple of the guard to recover her child if possible, and the poor +woman went off with the two soldiers in the full confidence that her +escort would be successful. I own that I myself was not so sanguine, +but I had yet to learn how much even in these wild mountains the +British name was respected. The mother's hopes were realized, and in +the course of the day the child was recovered, having been instantly +surrendered on the requisition being made; but I was surprised to see +instead of a helpless child a fine handsome well-knit young man. The +gratitude of the poor woman was sincere; she had nothing, she said, to +offer in return, but prayed that every blessing might descend upon us +and our most distant relations; that we might all become great kings; +and that finally we might be successful in conquering the country we +were proceeding to invade: vain were our endeavours to set before her +in their true light the object of our expedition. + +We arrived rather late at Uart after a hard day's work, and were not +much gratified by the aspect of our camp, which was disagreeable, from +its great elevation and its situation on a bleak table-land, thinly +covered with a short grass, with the strong winds of the Hindoo Khoosh +sweeping across it. + +Here a young woman came to our tent asking permission to avail +herself of our protection, as she was proceeding to the frontiers +of Toorkisth[=a]n to purchase slave girls for the Cabul market. She +accompanied us to Bamee[=a]n, and there remained. I heard afterwards +that she did not succeed according to her anticipations, and that on +her return to Cabul she died of fever. Our English ideas of slavery +drawn from our knowledge of the varied sufferings endured by the +thousands who are annually exported from the western shores of Africa, +are opposite to those entertained in the east even by the victims +themselves. The Asiatic and African slave are alike in name alone; the +treatment of the latter in those parts of America where, spite of the +progress of civilization and the advancement of true principles +of philanthropy over the world, slavery is still tolerated and +encouraged, has been too well and too often described for me to +venture a word of my own opinion, but in Asia, in many cases, the loss +of liberty is hardly felt. + +The situation of the domestic slave of Egypt (though, strictly +speaking, he must be classed under the head of "African") is analogous +to that observable generally in the east; and I form my opinion partly +from an anecdote related to me by my friend Captain Westmacott, of the +37th Native Infantry, who was killed in the retreat from Cabul, which +I will venture to repeat as an illustration. He was proceeding by the +overland route from England to India, and remained some time in Egypt +to view its splendid antiquities. On making inquiries with the object +of procuring servants, he was informed that he had better purchase +slaves. The civilized notions of my friend revolted at the idea, but +he was assured that it was a method very generally adopted, as he +would find it extremely difficult to hire servants, and if successful, +they would prove the veriest rascals on the face of the earth. He +reluctantly consented, and had them purchased. On his departure for +India he summoned his slaves, and informed them that as they had +behaved themselves well he would give them their freedom. They looked +astounded and burst into tears, reminding him that instead of being +kind to them he had shewn cruelty, "for where," said they, "shall we +go now? Who will have anything to say to us? We shall starve and die; +but if your highness will sell us again, we shall be well fed and +clothed." I confess I do not see why the servants, if they really were +so anxious to return to slavery, should not have sold themselves, and +pocketed their own value. Throughout Afghanist[=a]n a slave is treated +as an humble friend, and is generally found to be faithful and +trustworthy. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +After surmounting the Oonnye Pass, which is one of the principal +defiles of the Hindoo Khoosh, we proceeded on the 20th to +Gurdundew[=a]l, a distance from Uart of about six and a half miles. +The road was a gradual descent, and very rugged, leading along the +bases of barren rocks, till we debouched upon the river Elbon, as +it is termed by the natives, but the Helmund or Etymander of the +ancients. Even here, where the stream was in its infancy, the current +was so strong, that while we were fording it, one of our baggage +ponies laden with a tent was carried away by its violence, and, but +for the gallant exertions of our tent-pitcher, we should have had to +sleep in the open air for the rest of our journey; as it fortunately +happened, both animal and load were recovered; and when properly +dried, neither one nor the other were a bit the worse for their +washing. On the 21st we encamped near the village of Kazee, after a +march of nine miles along the right bank of the Helmund, which here +flows in a south-westerly direction; we could procure no supplies +whatever, either for man or beast, which was the more vexatious as +we had a very hard day's work in prospect for the morrow, and were +anxious to recruit ourselves and cattle before attempting it. We +managed well enough in spite of our compulsory fast, and on the 22d we +reached Kalloo, a distance of twelve miles, after crossing the steep +and difficult pass of Hadjekuk, 12,400 feet high; as we approached +the summit we found ourselves amongst the snow, and experienced some +little inconvenience from a difficulty of respiration; though this +pass was even higher than that of Oonnye, it does not possess the +same abruptness and boldness of feature which render the latter so +interesting and dangerous. The hills near the gorge were so strongly +impregnated with iron as sensibly to affect the needle of the +theodolite. + +Throughout this country, and especially amongst the Uzbegs, there is a +fortified wall in the form of a square surrounding each village, with +small bastions or towers at the angles. Plunder is so much the order +of the day, or rather of the night, that, as a protection, the cattle +and every living animal are shut up in these places at sunset; the +wicket is locked and barred, and if the villagers happen to have a +feud with any of their neighbours, which generally is the case, a +watchman is stationed on each bastion. Truly of this land it may be +said, that "what one sows another reaps," for frequently a chief +forming a "chuppäo" or plundering party against his neighbour, if +unsuccessful in seizing men to sell for slaves or cattle for use, +reaps and carries off the corn. These chuppäos are considered among +the predatory tribes very exciting affairs, as affording opportunities +for the young warriors to flesh their maiden swords; but it seldom +happens that these encounters are very bloody, as, in the event of one +party shewing a determined front, the other generally retreats. The +unfortunate Huzareh tribe are constantly the sufferers, and the +traveller will recognize more slaves of that than of any other "clan." + +We were now in the vicinity of the Koh-i-baba, a mountain whose +granite peaks still towered six thousand feet above us, though our +own camp was at least nine thousand above the level of the sea. We +determined upon ascending it the following morning, but at first +experienced considerable difficulty in procuring guides, not from the +natives being either unqualified or unwilling to undertake the task, +for they were chiefly hunters, and familiar with the paths they had +themselves formed in pursuit of game, but they could not conceive why +_we_ should be anxious to climb the difficult height, and therefore +were obstinately stupid in refusing to understand the purpose for +which we required their services. At length we obtained a guide, and +started next morning at half-past five: with considerable fatigue and +some little risk we reached the summit after three hours walking, but +the magnificent view amply rewarded us for our trouble. The peaks +about us were capped with eternal snow; those below were rugged and +black. The comparison of the view from the top of a lofty mountain in +a hilly country with that of the sea in a storm is old perhaps, but +only the truer for that very reason. It was, indeed, as if the hand +of God had suddenly arrested and turned to stone varied and fantastic +forms of the dark tumultuous waves. + +The solemn stillness of these lofty regions was a striking contrast +with the busy plains below. The mountains abound in wild sheep, which +the hardy hunter pursues for days together, taking with him a slender +stock of food, and wrapping his blanket about him at night, when he +seeks his resting-place amongst the crevices of these barren rocks. It +is seldom that he returns empty-handed if he takes up a good position +over-night, for the flocks of wild sheep descend from the least +accessible parts at the earliest dawn in search of pasture, and one +generally falls a victim to the unerring bullet of the rested +Juzzyl. The distant view of the barrier range was beautiful beyond +description, for, though the peak on which we stood was the highest +for many miles around us, the lofty peaks of the Indian Caucasus were +many thousand feet above us. We were now beyond the range of the wild +sheep, and not a living creature was to be seen save a majestic eagle, +who, deeming _us_ intruders where he was lord of all, sailed up along +the sides of the precipitous ravines, sweeping about our heads as he +soared upwards, then again wheeling downwards near and nearer, till at +length I fancied him within range; but so deceptive was the distance +or so defective my aim that he continued unruffled in his course, +whilst the sharp crack of the rifle echoed and re-echoed from crag to +crag. After satiating our gaze with these wild splendours of creation, +a most unsentimental craving of the inward man warned us to descend, +and we returned to Kalloo by eleven o'clock to do ample justice to our +breakfasts. + +We left Kalloo on the 24th, ascending by a rugged broken track to the +highest point of the pass, where we came upon a fort surrounded by a +small belt of cultivation divided into fields by hedgerows abounding +with wild roses. I could hardly have imagined the road practicable for +camels, but the cautious though unwieldy animals eventually succeeded +in surmounting all difficulties, and arrived late at our encampment +near a village called Topechee, the whole distance being ten miles and +a half. From the crest of the pass to Topechee was a gradual descent, +the road bordering a tremendous fissure, deep and gloomy, along the +bottom of which a pelting torrent forced its way. The variegated +strata on the mountain side, forming distinct lines of red, yellow, +blue, and brown, were very remarkable, and I much regret that I had +not time to devote to them most strict examination in a geological +point of view. + +On the 25th we started for Bamee[=a]n, passing by another Topechee a +few miles further on, which is famous for its trout stream. Very few +of these fish are found in the country, and only in the streams within +a few miles of this spot. They are red-spotted and well-flavoured, +and, as the natives do not indulge in the angler's art, they will rise +at any kind of fly and gorge any bait offered. While halting a few +minutes at lower Topechee we fell in with an Uzbeg warrior, a most +formidable looking personage, armed, in addition to the usual weapons +of his country, with a huge bell-mouthed blunderbuss at least three +inches in diameter; the individual himself was peaceably enough +disposed, and, contrary to the usual habit of Asiatics, made no +objections to our examining the small cannon he carried. On inspecting +the deadly instrument we discovered it to be loaded to the very +muzzle, a mixture of pebbles, slugs, and bits of iron being crammed +into the barrel over a charge of a couple of ounces of powder. On our +inquiring why it was so heavily charged, the man told us with much +naiveté, that it was to kill _nine_ men, illustrating the method by +which this wholesale destruction was to be accomplished, by planting +the butt on his hip and whirling the muzzle from right to left in a +horizontal direction across us all, and telling us very pleasantly +that if he were to fire we should all fall from the scattering of the +different ingredients contained in the blunderbuss; had we not an +instant before drawn the charge from which the fellow anticipated such +dire effects, we might have felt rather uncomfortable at our relative +positions; but I doubt whether the owner had ever had occasion to try +the efficacy of his boasted manoeuvre, as he would probably at the +first discharge have been killed himself either by the recoil or the +bursting of the defective and honey-combed barrel. + +The approach to Bamee[=a]n was very singular; the whole face of the +hills on either hand was burrowed all over with caves like a huge +rabbit-warren. I am informed that these caves are the work of nature, +"yet worked, as it were planned," and are occupied occasionally by +travellers both in summer and winter; they are observable in many +places in Toorkisth[=a]n, and, when situated high up on the face of +the hill, afford a safe retreat for the hunter. The road was tolerably +good for the last three miles, running along a narrow valley sprinkled +with numerous forts, which are generally occupied by the Huzareh +tribes, an ill-featured but athletic race. + +I shall not detain the reader by any description either of the +wonderful ruins of the ancient city of Goolgoolla or of the gigantic +images of Bamee[=a]n, these curiosities having been ably described in +Masson's very interesting work; but I was a good deal amused by the +various legends with which the natives are familiar, of one of which, +relating to a chalybeate spring in the neighbourhood called the +"Dragon's Mouth," I shall take the liberty to offer a free version. It +was related to me by an old gentleman who brought a few coins to sell, +and I listened to him with some patience; but in proportion as the old +fellow observed my passive attention did he increase in verbosity and +pompous description. I still waited for the _point_ of the story, but +my friend, after exhausting his powers of speech and metaphor, was +fain to wind up his tale with a most lame and impotent conclusion. +I now give it to the reader, not from a wish to punish him as I +was punished, but because from the prolixity of the narrator he +necessarily most minutely described scenes and customs, which, though +they had nothing on earth to do with the "Dragon's Mouth," may prove +interesting to the reader, as illustrating the peculiarities of the +people amongst whom we were now sojourning. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +"A TALE OF THE DRAGON'S MOUTH." + + +In the reign of Ameer Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n, when all the pomp and +pride of glorious war was in its zenith at C[=a]bul, there lived on +the borders of Kulloom and Kundooz, a chieftain named Khan Shereef, +whose grandfather had accompanied the illustrious Nadir Shah from +Persia in his expedition through Affghanist[=a]n, and followed the +fortunes of his royal master, even to the very gates of the imperial +Delhi. On his return towards Persia, he had for a time intended to +settle in C[=a]bul, but "death, who assaults the walled fort of the +chieftain as well as the defenceless hovel of the peasant," seized him +for his own; the father also paid the debt of nature in the capital of +Affghanist[=a]n, but not before the young Khan Shereef had seen the +light. Growing up to manhood and wearying of the monotonous life a +residence in C[=a]bul entailed, he pursued his way across the frontier +mountains of Toorkisth[=a]n, and arrived at the court of Meer Moorad +Beg. Here he performed good service in the field, and becoming his +master's personal friend and favourite, had a fort and a small portion +of territory assigned to him. It was at the court of the Kundooz +ruler that he first became acquainted with Zebah, the lovely rose +of Cashmere, whom he eventually purchased from her father for +his wife.[*] He started with his bride to take possession of his +newly-acquired gift, an insulated fortress in the heart of a country +abounding in those extensive prairies for which Toorkisth[=a]n is +so justly celebrated. On these magnificent savannahs he reared the +Toorkman steed, and soon boasted an unrivalled stud. + +[* Note: It is customary in this country as well as in other parts +of Asia to purchase the young women who may be selected for wives of +their relations, the purchase money varying according to the degrees +of beauty.] Towards the close of the first year he became a father, an +event which was hailed with extravagant joy by all his vassals, the +old retainers of his father foretelling the future achievements in the +foray of the young Abdoollah Reheem. + +A few months had scarcely elapsed, when the anxious mother spied an +old crone moving about in the court-yard; their eyes happening to +meet, Zebah screamed and fell into a swoon. The young heir was +instantly hurried away, but not before the old hag had cast a +withering glance on the boy's beautiful face; every one was now fully +convinced that he had been struck by the "evil eye," which was but too +clearly proved by the event, for from that day he sickened and pined +away till reduced to a mere skeleton. + +Large sums of money were expended by the fond parents in the endeavour +to discover a charm to counteract the effects of the "evil eye," till +at length in an auspicious moment it was proposed the boy should try +the efficacy of the celebrated water of the "Dragon's Mouth," which is +situated at the head of the enchanting vale of Bamee[=a]n, just beyond +the western limits of Toorkisth[=a]n. The slave girl who proposed this +scheme related numerous and wonderful cures effected by the magic +waters, and enumerated many hundred individuals, the lame, the blind, +the infirm, the rheumatic, and those afflicted with _bad temper_, who +had been perfectly cured by either drinking of the water or being +immersed in the fountain itself. She would not be positive which +mode was the best, but certain she was that the cure was perfect and +permanent; she herself had been ugly and cross-tempered, and now she +left her audience to judge of her character and appearance. This last +proof at once determined the mother to adopt a plan, which after so +many unsuccessful attempts she could not but consider as her last +resource. + +Khan Shereef was not quite so credulous, but what chance has a man +alone against his united harem! He was so far influenced by the +earnest entreaties of his disconsolate wife, that it was determined +in three days he should with a strong cavalcade accompany his darling +invalid to the charmed waters of Bamee[=a]n. The Toorkm[=a]n warriors +were too religious to doubt the fortunate results of the experiment, +and accordingly for the few days which elapsed previous to the setting +forth of the expedition the fort was a scene of active preparation. +Armour was burnished, swords brightened and fresh ground, juzzyls +cleaned and matches got ready, so that they might produce as imposing +an effect as possible, not only on the presiding spirit of the +fountain, and the very questionable friends through whose territories +they were about to pass, but also that they might do due honour to +their lord and master. + +But before proceeding with my history, I must not omit a more minute +description of Khan Shereefs fort. I have already described its +locality on the borders of Toorkisth[=a]n. It was situated at the base +of a low conical hill, on the summit of which a look-out tower had +been erected; this building was in troublesome times occupied by a +party of Juzzylchees, who took their station in it, and, fixing their +cumbrous pieces on the parapet, watched the approach of any hostile +party, and from their commanding and protected position would be +enabled to keep in check an enemy attempting to ascend the opposite +side of the hill. As the nearest stream of water was full two miles +from the fort, the present owner, being a man full of science and +mathematical knowledge, had with unparalleled ingenuity sunk a deep +and substantial well inside his walls, thus rendering his position +infinitely more tenable than if his water-carriers had been daily +obliged, as is the case in most places, to run the gauntlet of +the enemy's fire whilst procuring the requisite supply of that +indispensable article. + +The fort itself was an oblong square, and required three hundred men +to man its walls; it was built of mud, with a large bastion at each +angle three and four stories high, and loopholed. It had but one gate, +on which the nature of the defences afforded means for concentrating a +heavy fire. Immediately facing the gate, and detached from buildings +of inferior importance, was the Khan's own residence, and some low +flat-roofed houses lining the inside of the whole extent of walls, +which afforded a secure shelter to the vassals. The audience-chamber +or public sitting-room was so situated that the Kh[=a]n could survey +the whole of the interior of his fort whilst squatting on his +Persian carpet or reclining on the large soft pillow, which is an +indispensable luxury for a grandee of the rank and importance of +Kh[=a]n Shereef. + +The sides of the apartment consisted of a lattice-work of wood +reaching nearly to the ceiling, and connecting the mud pillars which +supported the roof; the framework was richly carved, and on slides, so +as to enable the owner to increase or diminish the quantity of light +and air at his pleasure. + +Between the Kh[=a]n's dwelling and the gate was the mosque, whose +minarets towered above the walls and bastions of the fort,--its dome +was beautifully proportioned, and inlaid with agate, jasper, and +carnelian, besides being wonderfully painted with representations of +strange animals unknown to the common people, but which the Moollah +affirmed were all taken from the life. + +At this time the base of the mosque was occupied by a party of men +smoking and passing the Kalee[=a]n to each other; amongst them was +one, evidently superior to the rest in age and wisdom, for his opinion +was frequently appealed to by all and listened to with much deference. +When not called upon to interfere he sat quiet and reserved, and +to judge by his countenance was in a melancholy mood. His name was +Rhejjub;--he was the oldest retainer of the family, and to him in all +cases of emergency did the Kh[=a]n apply for advice, which had never +been given without due deliberation and almost prophetic foresight. He +had only that morning been deputed to remain and guard the fort during +the absence of his master, and although he knew it to be a post of +honor and trust, yet he could not but consider it an effeminate duty +to be left guardian of the Koch-khanah or _family_, and superintendent +of the _un_chosen of the band. With him, "to hear was to obey," still +he envied those who had been selected to accompany their lord. Old +Rhejjub had been a great traveller in his day; had wandered over many +portions of Arabia, and visited the holy city of Mecca; thus gaining +the valuable privileges of a Suyud or _holy man_, which title alone +was a passport and safeguard amongst even the lawless Ghilgyes and +Khyberr[=e]es of Affghanist[=a]n, it being a greater crime for a man +to kill a Suyud than even his own father. Thus, whenever a Chuppao or +other warlike expedition was in contemplation, Rhejjub was invariably +despatched to reconnoitre and obtain information, and being a man of a +shrewd turn of mind, and calculating all chances during his homeward +journey, was always prepared after detailing his news to give a sound +opinion as to the best plan to be pursued. + +At early dawn of the proposed day of departure the whole party were +summoned by the Muezzin's call to offer up prayers for their safe +arrival at the "Dragon's Mouth," for the effectual cure of the young +Abdoollah, and his happy return to his fond mother. Before mounting, +was performed the ceremony of taking from its resting place the famous +sword given to the Kh[=a]n's grandfather by Nadir Shah himself. +The blade was of Damascus steel, and valued alone at one hundred +tomauns;[*] the ivory handle was ornamented with precious stones, +and the pommel was one large emerald of great beauty and value. The +scabbard was of shagreen finely embroidered in gold. This precious +weapon the Suyud had the enviable office of presenting to his chief +unsheathed, whilst the aged Moollah who stood by read aloud the inlaid +Arabic inscription on the blade, "May this always prove as true a +friend to thee as it has been to the donor." The Kh[=a]n received the +valued heir-loom with all due respect, and kissing the weapon sheathed +and fixed it firmly to his belt. + +[* Note: Tomaun, twenty rupees or about £2.] + +All necessary preparations for the departure being now completed, the +camel destined for the accommodation of the invalid was brought to the +door of the palace, conducted by a favourite Arab who had for many +years filled the office of head Surwan or _camel-driver_. The colour +of the animal was almost white, and the large gold embroidered +housings swept the ground; on either side was fixed a wicker-basket +lined and covered with red cloth, and furnished with soft cushions; +one of these held the young Kh[=a]n, whilst the other was occupied by +the nurse who was the original promoter of the expedition. At length +the word to march was given, and the escort consisting of sixty +horsemen galloped forth. Khan Shereef himself was clad in a coat +of mail, and wore a circular steel head-piece, in which were three +receptacles for as many heron plumes; a light matchlock, the barrel of +which, inlaid with gold, was slung across his shoulder; attached to +his sword-belt were the usual priming and loading powder-flasks made +of buffalo's hide, with tobacco-pouch and bullet-holder of Russia +leather worked with gold thread; and the equipment was completed by +the Affgh[=a]n boots drawn up over the loose trousers reaching to the +knee, with sharp-pointed heels serving for spurs. + +The procession moved on, the escort forming an advance and rear-guard, +the chief galloping sometimes in front of the party, and now walking +his Toorkm[=a]n steed alongside the richly caparisoned camel with its +precious burthen. + +Occasionally a horseman would dash out from the ranks in chace of +a wild goat or sheep crossing the little frequented road, or, +dismounting and giving his horse in charge of a comrade, would make +a detour on foot in the hope of getting a shot at a chichore.[*] The +tedious hours of march were thus wiled away till they reached the +"Dundun Shikkun Kotul" or _tooth-breaking_ pass, when the horsemen +assumed a more steady demeanour. They were now within forty miles of +the celebrated spring, which they hoped to reach on the following day. + +[* Note: This is a species of partridge very abundant throughout +Toorkistan.] + +The Dragon's Mouth is situated four or five miles to the north-west +of Bamee[=a]n, high up in the mountains in the direction of the +Yookaoolung country. After a toilsome and somewhat perilous ascent +the traveller finds himself at the edge of a deep ravine--or rather +fissure in the rock, for the width at the top is seldom more than +twelve feet--the sides presenting a ferruginous appearance, with tints +varying from extremely dark to lighter shades, by reason of the soil +being so strongly impregnated with ore. The low gurgling of the +wonder-working stream might be heard issuing from the depths of the +dark abysm. + +Below, and at the only point of feasible approach for the +disease-stricken, is a large cave, where the water bubbles up warm, +and forming innumerable small whirlpools before it breaks again into a +stream, and mingles its waters with those of a torrent below. + +Here, at the base of a large fragment of rock, almost entirely covered +with Arabic inscriptions and quotations from the Kor[=a]n alluding to +the healing powers of the well and the mercy of God, Khan Shereef and +his now dismounted followers offered up prayers for success. Suddenly +a huge mass of rock detaching itself from the mountain side thundered +down the steep; it was hailed by all as a good omen, and the Moollah +declaring that "now or never" was the auspicious moment, the child was +taken from the arms of the now trembling nurse and immersed in the +turbid waters. Hope elevated the breasts of the father and of the +attendants, nor was that feeling fallacious, for on the following +morning the invalid was pronounced decidedly better, and was again +taken to the cavern, and again, with sanguine prayers and invocations, +dipped into the pool. + +Khan Shereef, feeling assured that he could now do no more, and +trusting to the goodness of Providence, ordered a retrograde movement, +and in a few days arrived at his castle with the infant nearly +restored to health. A few years after the young Abdoollah was a +healthy active boy, indulging in the sports of the field, and +anxiously awaiting the time when he should be of sufficient age to +join in the more exciting scenes of the chuppao. The old nurse, the +proposer of the successful scheme, was highly honoured, and became +chief attendant in the seraglio, which office she holds to this day. + +"And now," concluded the old gentleman, "if my lord will choose to +purchase these beautiful coins, he shall have them for whatever price +his generosity may think fit to put upon them." + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +The force stationed at Bamee[=a]n consisted, at the time we were +there, of a troop of native horse artillery and a regiment of Goorkahs +in the service of Shah Seujah. + +On our arrival, Dr. Lord, the political agent, sent us a polite note +of invitation to pitch our tents near his fort, and (we) become his +guests during our stay; we remained with him till the 29th, and were +much gratified by his kind attention. + +The quiet demeanour of the natives here was very remarkable, and as +we can hardly attribute the circumstance to an inherent pacific +disposition, we must the more appreciate the wonderful address +displayed by the political agent in his dealings with the various +parties, who in these remote mountains, as well as in more civilised +countries, are ever ready to quarrel with each other, and only suspend +their animosity when a common powerful enemy is to be resisted or a +helpless stranger to be plundered. As it was, we reaped considerable +benefit from the favourable impression made on the peasants by the +authorities, for we were enabled to go out shooting, alone, and even +wander unarmed amongst the hills without experiencing the slightest +insult or incivility. + +Indeed, at the period of which I am writing, there seemed to have +been a pause in the wild passions of the Affgh[=a]ns throughout the +country, which was perhaps one of the fatal causes which lulled us +into that dangerous feeling of security, from whence we were awoke by +the most dreadful disaster that has ever befallen the British arms. +Poor Dr. Lord was killed at Purwan Durrah during the short campaign in +the Kohistan under Sir Robert Sale; and the other British officer, Dr. +Grant, who was the medical attaché to the mission, disappeared during +the retreat from Charrik[=a]r in 1841, and has never been heard of +since. + +On the 29th June we left Bamee[=a]n for Surruk Durrah (red valley), +which is situated at the mouth of the gorge; it is a place of +no importance, but the face of the impending hills has a most +extraordinary appearance from the fanciful shapes of the harder rocks +which jut out from the clayey sides of the mountains. + +Here it was that Colonel Dennie, of the 13th, who afterwards fell at +Jell[=a]labad, with a small force of a few hundred men, completely +routed the Ex-Ameer Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n, who was accompanied by all +the principal Uzbeg chiefs and the famous Meer Walli of Kulloom. + +A report reached the gallant Colonel in the morning, that the enemy +had taken up a position at the head of the Bamee[=a]n valley; +he immediately ordered a reconnoitring party to proceed in that +direction, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there was any +foundation for the alarm, and accompanied them himself; he was rather +astonished on perceiving the enemy debouching from the hills in great +force; the odds were fearfully against him in numbers, but, like a +good soldier, he at once decided upon attacking without delay. He +immediately opened a fire on them from his two guns, under the able +superintendence of Lieut. McKenzie, and then dashing forward, drove +them back with great slaughter into the narrow gorge, from whence they +again attempted to advance, but were again beaten back, till at length +they lost courage and broke away in every direction. + +On the 30th we marched to Akrob[=a]d, a distance of ten miles. On +leaving Surruk Durrah we entered the narrow gorge before alluded to; +it is five miles long, and has precipitous sides, at the bottom of +which rushed a foaming torrent: the formation of the hills was slate +with a superstratum of limestone. On emerging from the Akrob[=a]d +Pass, where there was not a breath to disturb the meagre foliage, we +were suddenly surprized by a bleak piercing wind, which we were told +invariably blew across the table land on which the fort is built. +Although in the height of summer, the wind was intensely cold, and we +were glad to take into wear the scanty supply of winter clothing which +we had brought with us in case of emergency. Out of the stream running +in front of the fort in less than an hour I managed to take a few +well-flavoured trout, which swallowed my bait most greedily. From +Surruk Durrah to Akrob[=a]d the road was, comparatively speaking, +good, it being under the superintendence of Lieut. Broadfoot, who +had been directed to make it practicable for artillery as far as +Sygh[=a]n; he had made good progress in his work, and at the period I +write of, it was a very fair military road as far as Akrob[=a]d. Poor +Broadfoot was slain in the gallant and desperate charge made by the +officers of the 2d Bengal Cavalry at Purw[=a]n Durrah, of which I +hope in the proper place to be able to give the reader a slight +description. + +The hills about Akrob[=a]d are so situated as to form a funnel for all +the winds of the snowy range, rendering the temperature of the little +table-land bitterly cold both in summer and winter--so much so in +winter, that the Huz[=a]reh inhabitants desert the fort in autumn for +some more sheltered locality, and return again with the spring. + +We now entered Toorkisth[=a]n, the pass of Akrob[=a]d dividing it from +Affghanist[=a]n. Should the traveller form his opinion of the country +beyond by the specimen now before us, he would be loth indeed to +proceed, for a more dismal corner can hardly be conceived. The outline +of the adjacent mountains was dreary and uninviting, with very little +cultivation in the valley, which also bore a most desolate aspect--it +was barren and unpromising, without participating in the wild and +grand features which generally characterize these regions. Fuel was +with difficulty procured, and our camp was but scantily furnished with +even the most necessary supplies. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +On the 1st of July we left this sad region, and pitched our tents +some five miles further onwards, in a pleasant meadow, where we met a +brother of Dost Mahommed, the well-known Sird[=a]r Jubber Kh[=a]n, who +arrived in the course of the day from the interior of Toorkist[=a]n, +and encamped close to us. He was then on his way to Cabul, having +in charge the women and children belonging to the seraglio of the +ex-king. He invited us to pay him a visit, which we did in uniform, +and found him an agreeable old gentleman, with manners far more +polished than the generality of his countrymen, who, though not +deficient in a certain national savage grace, frequently shock our +European notions of propriety by their open disregard of what we are +accustomed to consider the decencies of society; but Jubber Kh[=a]n +seemed to have all the good qualities and few of the vices so +prevalent in the Affgh[=a]n character. No doubt that superior polish +of manner was derived from his more extensive intercourse with +Europeans. During our visit he presented us each with a small silver +Mahommedan coin, saying at the same time with peculiar grace and +dignity that he was now a poor man, and entirely dependent on the +generosity of the British; that the coin was of no intrinsic value, +but still he hoped we would remember the donor. Much as we respected +the character of our host, I could not but regret that he had not yet +picked up the English habit of sitting on a chair; for what with +tight pantaloons and a stiff uniform, I got so numbed by sitting +cross-legged like a tailor, that when the interview was over I could +not rise from my cramped position without assistance, much to the +amusement of Jubber Kh[=a]n, whose oriental gravity was entirely +upset. + +I was informed that on being requested by the British authorities to +deliver up the family of his brother, he boldly refused, stating that +they were given into his charge, and that he deemed it a sacred trust +not to be betrayed by any consideration of personal advantage. It will +be gratifying to the reader to know that this manly refusal did not +operate to his prejudice in the opinions of those to whom it was made. +He subsequently obtained from the Dost permission to comply with the +demand, and was now on his journey for that purpose; but though he +professed to have every confidence in our honour and generous kindness +with regard to the females, he appeared somewhat anxious as to the +influence which his previous refusal might have with reference to his +own treatment. Jubber Kh[=a]n's name was in great repute amongst +the Affgh[=a]ns, who, all wild and savage as they are, still have +sufficient feeling to admire in others those virtues which are +so rarely met with amongst themselves: he is considered an able +politician also, as well as the poor man's friend--high and low find +him equally easy of access, and he is the general mediator in quarrels +between the different chiefs, and the principal counsellor in the +national debates. + +Whilst encamped here the united seraglios of Dost Mahommed and Jubber +Kh[=a]n passed in front of our tents, on their way to K[=a]bul. It was +a very large procession, consisting of nearly eighty camel loads of +fair ones of every age and quality. Each camel was furnished on either +side with a large pannier, and in each pannier was a lady--weight +against weight. The presence of Englishmen so much excited their +curiosity that we were enabled to enjoy a nearer and better view of +the beauties than strict decorum would have justified, and it may not +perhaps be uninteresting to my fair readers, if, turning to advantage +this slight impropriety, I here take the liberty of describing as much +as I could observe of the very remarkable travelling costume of the +female Affgh[=a]n aristocracy. When in public the highborn Affgh[=a]n +lady is so completely enveloped by her large veil (literally sheet), +that the person is entirely concealed from head to foot; there are +two eyelet holes in that part of the sheet which covers the face, +admitting air and light, and affording to the fair one, herself +unseen, a tolerable view of external objects. I trust I may be +permitted without indiscretion to remove this shroud and give some +slight description of the costume. + +Over a short white under-garment, whose name of Kammese[*] +sufficiently denotes its use, is a Peir[=a]n or jacket, which amongst +the higher classes is made of Bokh[=a]ra cloth, or not unfrequently of +Russian broad cloth, brought overland through Bokh[=a]ra. This garment +is generally of some glaring gaudy colour, red or bright yellow, +richly embroidered either in silk or gold; it is very like the Turkish +jacket, but the inner side of the sleeve is open, and merely confined +at the wrist with hooks and eyes. A pair of loose trousers, gathered +at the waist with a running silken cord, and large at the ankle, forms +a prominent feature in the costume, and is made either of calico, +shawl-cloth, or Cachmere brocade, according to the finances of the +wearer. Instead of stockings they wear a kind of awkward-looking linen +bag, yellow or red, soled with thick cloth or felt, the top being +edged with shawl-cloth. The shoes are similar to the Turkish slipper, +with the usual Affgh[=a]n high-pointed heels tipped with iron; and as +these articles must from their shape be an impediment to walking, I +presume that the real use to which they are generally put must +have given rise to the common expression in Hindoost[=a]n for any +punishment inflicted, the term being "jutte mar," literally, +beating with the shoe. The weapon put to this purpose would be very +formidable, and I have little doubt that the beauties of the harem +keep their lords in high discipline by merely threatening with such an +instrument. + +[* Note: Anglice, Chemise. It may fairly be inferred that the name of +this under-garment is derived from the word mentioned in the text; and +doubtless there are many words in our own as well as in other modern +languages that may equally be traced to Asia; for instance, Sheittan, +Satan.] + +On the head of the Affgh[=a]n female is worn a small skull cap, +keeping in place the hair in front, which is parted, laid flat, and +stiffened with gum, while the rest hangs in long plaits down the back. + +Next day we left for Sygh[=a]n, and after a march of about fifteen +miles pitched our tents in the vicinity of the principal fort. The +whole journey was through a deep defile, except about half-way, when +we came upon a small but well cultivated plain, with a fort in the +centre. The contrast was pleasing after travelling so many miles +amidst the dark overhanging crags, threatening destruction on the +passer-by; but this relief was of short duration, for after two miles +it gradually contracted, and formed a continuation of the defile down +to the valley of Sygh[=a]n. + +The fort is on a small hill detached from the main range, but easily +commanded, though it is said for ages to have been deemed impregnable, +till some chief more knowing than his neighbours hit upon the very +obvious expedient of lining the overhanging range with Juzzylchees, +and picking off every individual who ventured to appear on the +battlements. It is now in our possession, and occupied by two +companies of Sepoys; and though the place might be seriously annoyed +by musketry from the adjacent hills, still the sides of those hills +are so rocky and precipitous that cannon could not be brought to bear +from the summit without immense labour. + +These hills are composed of sandstone and indurated clay, in which +numerous fossils abound. + +The valley along which we proceeded produces many varieties of fruit, +and is rich in the cultivation of artificial grasses, lucerne being +the most abundant. + +On arriving at our encamping ground on the 3rd of July, about four +miles and a half beyond Sygh[=a]n, a poor villager, a vassal of +Mahommed Ali Beg's, to whom the fort of Sygh[=a]n belonged previous to +its cession to the British, came to complain that some of our baggage +animals had injured one of his fields by trampling down his grain. +Upon enquiry his story was found to be correct. Mahommed Ali Beg +happened to be paying us a visit when the man presented himself, and +wished to drive the poor fellow away to prevent his troubling us; and +great indeed was the wonder and astonishment shewn by all the natives +about us when Sturt desired that the peasant should receive ten rupees +as compensation for the damage done to his crops. + +Loud were the praises bestowed upon our _extraordinary_ justice; and +Mahommed Ali Beg, forgetting the line of conduct he had but a moment +before advocated, delivered the following expression of his reformed +opinion in a loud pompous tone, whilst his followers listened, +open-mouthed, to the eloquence of their now scrupulous chief: +"Although the Feringhis have invaded our country they never commit any +act of injustice;" then, having delivered himself of this inconsistent +speech, he lifted a straw from the ground, and turning round to his +audience, continued: "they don't rob us even of the value of +_that_; they pay for every thing, even for the damage done by their +followers." Corporal Trim's hat falling to the ground was nothing to +the effect produced by the comparison of the straw; but, alas for +human nature! I had but too strong grounds for suspecting that, of +the ten rupees awarded to the peasant, seven were claimed by Ali for +having induced the Feringhis to listen to the claim!! + +The surrounding hills have here as at Surruk Durrah the appearance of +ruined castles, with donjon or keep and tower; they forcibly reminded +me of the "Castle of St. John," in Scott's Bridal of Triermain, but my +visions of Merlin and fair maidens awoken from their charmed slumbers +were destroyed by the sight of a little purling brook which promised +me a few hours angling. Nor was I disappointed; for in a short time I +(being unprovided with my fishing basket) filled two towels full of +fish, and congratulated myself on my sport; however, to use an old +phrase, "the proof of the pudding is in the eating," and so we found +it, for when brought to table "my catch" fell far short of our +epicurean anticipations, and I almost regretted that I had not +continued my dreams instead of disturbing the finny tribe. + +A complaint was made to us in the course of the day, that an Huzareh +female, returning to her own country with one attendant, had been +seized and carried away to one of the adjacent forts, where she was +detained; and our interference was requested with a view to obtaining +her release. We were of course most anxious to help the poor woman, +especially as it appeared from what was reported to us that there were +not the slightest grounds for the outrage, beyond the helplessness +of her situation and the natural cupidity of the robber chief of the +fort; but, unfortunately, we were travelling without credentials, the +Envoy having declined to furnish us, lest the inhabitants should fancy +that we were vested with any political power; and therefore we could +not interfere, and what became of her I know not, though we were +afterwards told that on her resigning her trinkets as her ransom she +would be released. Indeed the personal ornaments of the petty chiefs +are generally the point of some lawless proceeding like the one +alluded to, as they are seldom possessed of sufficient capital in +specie to purchase jewels, but exchange their grain and fruits for +clothes and precious stones. I have mentioned the above circumstance +to give the reader some notion of the lawless state of society, +deeming it out of keeping with the humble character of this simple +narrative, and perhaps beyond the ability of the writer, to enter more +minutely into the various causes which have contributed to bring the +country into so unhappy a state. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +On the 4th July our route lay across the Dundun Shikkun. Kotul, or +"tooth-breaking pass," and a truly formidable one it is for beasts +of burden, especially the declivity on the northern side. Very few +venture upon the descent without dismounting, for the surface of the +rock is so smooth and slippery, that the animals can with difficulty +keep their legs even when led, and many teeth, both of man and horse, +have been broken before reaching the bottom. + +The valley of K[=a]mmurd lying at the foot of the northern side of +the pass has a very fertile appearance, and orchards of different +descriptions of fruit-trees are interspersed throughout the +cultivation. The fort of the principal chief, named Uzzuttoollah Beg, +from whom we received a visit, is high up the valley, and there are +two others of minor importance on either bank of the river, lower down +and together. + +Uzzuttoollah Beg was in appearance a very fine old man with an +imposing white beard; he was six feet high, large boned and muscular, +and by far the most powerful and stately looking personage we had +hitherto met; but he was a shrewd wicked old fellow, and when the star +of British prosperity began to wane, proved himself a dangerous enemy. +His own vassals, from whom he exacted the strictest obedience, stood +in great awe of him. He came merely, he said, to pay his respects, +to chat over political affairs, and to inquire from us whether the +English intended giving up his valley to the Meer Walli of Koollum. +We could give him no information as to the intentions of Government. +"Khoob (well,)" answered he, "if such really be the case, the Meer +Walli may seize me if he is able, provided _you_ keep aloof; the Meer +has tried that game before now, but did not succeed; on two separate +occasions he has visited my fort in an unceremonious manner, and with +hostile intent; but, gentlemen, there are two sides to a fort, the +inside and the out. I was in--the Meer was out, and I kept him there; +till, (suffering no other inconvenience myself than the deprivation +from riding for a few days,) by keeping up a constant fire on his +ragamuffins, I one fine day compelled him to beat his retreat:" and +so saying, he stroked his beard with much complacency, evidently +considering it and its owner the two greatest wonders of the +Toorkisth[=a]n world. + +It may be as well to remark here, that in these valleys as throughout +Affghanist[=a]n in general, the forts are made of mud, the walls being +of great strength and thickness; they are built gradually, and it +takes many months to erect a wall twenty feet high, as each layer +of mud is allowed to bake and harden in the sun before the next is +superimposed. Now, as none of the chiefs possess cannon, except the +Meer Walli and Moorad Beg of Koondooz, it is almost impossible to gain +an entry into a well-constructed fort, except by treachery; and even +the few honey-combed pieces of small calibre possessed by the above +chieftains would not have much effect against the massive ramparts. + +But the Uzbegs have a method of undermining the bastion, by turning +the course of some convenient stream right under the very base; this +gradually softens the lower stratum of mud, and diminishing its +tenacity, the whole fabric comes tumbling down from its own weight. +They also have frequently recourse to mining, but for either method to +succeed the defenders cannot be on the alert. + +A man who had been engaged in an operation of the latter kind, by +which the fort of Badjgh[=a]r was once taken, explained to me the plan +adopted, which bears a rude analogy to the modern plan of mining under +the glacis to the foot of the counterscarp. + +To-day a horseman came into our camp at about 3 P.M. with letters from +Bamee[=a]n; he had left early in the morning, and thus accomplished a +journey of fifty miles with the same horse, over two severe passes, +and through a succession of difficult defiles. On alighting, he tied +his horse to the branch of a tree, merely loosening the girths, but +not intending to give him food till the evening. The horses are +habituated to the want of any midday feeding, and at night and morning +seldom get grain. But the dried lucerne and other artificial grasses +with which they are supplied must afford them sufficient nourishment, +as they are generally in very good working condition; they are +undersized, but very sure-footed; it is indeed astonishing over what +fearful ground they will carry their riders. The yabboo is a different +style of animal, heavier built and slower; its pace is an amble, by +means of which it will get over an immense distance, but it is not so +sure-footed. + +I remarked that aged horses were very rarely met with, and on +inquiring the reason, was informed that the horses were all so +violently worked when young as soon to break down, after which they +are slaughtered and made into _kabobs_. I was assured that the +eating-shops of Cabul and Kandah[=a]r always require a great supply of +horseflesh, which is much liked by the natives, and when well seasoned +with spices is not to be distinguished from other animal food. + +At this station fruit was in great profusion; I observed that the +sides of a barren hill near our camp were of a bright yellow tint +for upwards of a mile and a half, and on approaching to discover the +cause, I found the whole space covered with apricots placed side by +side to dry in the sun. I tasted some of them, which had apparently +only just been gathered, and found them very well flavoured, though +generally speaking I must allow that the fruits of these valleys are +inferior to those of Europe, with the exception of the grape, which is +unequalled. But the grape and apricot are not the only fruits which +flourish in this green spot surrounded by barren rocks,--the walnut, +the peach, mulberry, apple, and cherry, also come to perfection in +their respective seasons. + +At sunset Uzzuttoollah Beg sent us a plentiful supply of fruit, grain +for our cattle, and flour for the servants, regretting at the same +time that he was not able to send us sheep enough for the whole party. +When he came to take leave, we told him we had received more than +we expected or required, and begged his acceptance of a loonghee or +_headdress_ in remembrance of us. He was much gratified with the +trifle, it being of Peshawurree muslin, a kind much sought after and +prized by the Uzbegs. He immediately took off his own turban, which +was indeed rather the worse for wear, and binding the new one round +his head, declared with a self-satisfied look, that "it would be +exceedingly becoming." He then arose, and probably to shew his +knowledge of European breeding, gave me such a manly shake of the hand +as made me expect to see the blood start from the tips of my fingers. +I am not sure, with all due respect for the good old custom of shaking +hands, that I should not have preferred submitting to the Uzbeg mode +of salutation. On approaching an equal, the arms of both are thrown +transversely across the shoulders and body, like the preparatory +attitude of wrestlers in some parts of England, then, placing breast +to breast, the usual form of "salaam aleikoom" is given in a slow +measured tone. But on horseback the inferior dismounts, and, according +to the degree of rank, touches or embraces the stirrup. + +The valley of Kammurd is of an oblong form flanked by stupendous +mountains; the enormous barrier of the Dundun Shikkun almost precludes +the possibility of bringing cannon from the south, although one gun is +known to have been dragged over by sheer manual labour; it was brought +by Dost Mahommed from Cabul to quell some refractory chiefs, the +carriage being taken to pieces, and the gun fastened by ropes in the +hollowed trunk of a tree. + +On the 5th of July we reached Piedb[=a]gh, five miles further down the +valley, which gradually decreased in breadth, seldom exceeding two +hundred yards, and sometimes contracting to fifty. Along the banks +of a muddy river flowing through the centre of the narrow vale, the +sycamore tree was very luxuriant, and two or three forts formed a +chain of communication from one end of the cultivated land to the +other. Piedb[=a]gh, as its name implies, is a complete orchard, +_piedan_ meaning perpetual, and b[=a]gh, garden; from a distance it +looks like a thick wood with the turrets of the forts overtopping the +dark foliage. We took advantage of the quiet beauty of this spot +to give our horses a day's rest, and lucky it was for us we had at +Bamee[=a]n exchanged for stout yaboos the unwieldy camels which we had +brought from Cabul; the yaboos get over the ground twice as fast as +the camel, and for mountainous districts are infinitely preferable to +the "ship of the desert." + +It was lucky also that we had not burdened ourselves with bedsteads or +charpoys, as they are called in the East (literally "_four feet_"); +they would have inconvenienced us much; and we should, probably, have +been forced to abandon them on the road, the pathways along the glens +being often so narrow, and so encumbered with the detritus from the +overhanging mountains, as to make it necessary to pack our baggage +very compactly; inattention to this important point in mountain +travelling is sometimes followed by very serious consequences, for the +chair or bedstead, projecting far beyond the centre of gravity of the +unfortunate animal, catches against a corner of rock, and both load +and pony run imminent risk of being hurled into the abyss below. We +were now so inured to sleeping on the ground, that had it not been for +the multitudes of fleas we should never have felt the want of a +more elevated sleeping place. The animal and vegetable character of +Piedb[=a]gh may be stated in a few words--apricots and fleas are in +abundance, the former very large sized, and the latter healthy. + +In the course of my journal I hope to be able to relate the +circumstances of a very pretty little affair which occurred here, some +months after we passed through, between two companies of Shah Soojah's +Goorkah regiment and the inhabitants of the neighbouring forts. The +Goorkahs, upholding their well-known character, fought desperately +against an overwhelming force; they would have suffered severely +but for the able conduct of their leader, who was an European +non-commissioned officer and quarter-master sergeant of the corps; his +manoeuvring would have done credit to many an older soldier. + +On the 7th July we quitted Piedb[=a]gh for Badjgh[=a]r, the most +westerly of our advanced posts; it was occupied at the period of which +I write by Captain Hay, and was the head-quarters of the Goorkah +battalion. The hills from a little above Piedb[=a]gh encroach so much +upon the valley as to reduce it to little more than a ravine forming +two gigantic walls, that on the right being inaccessible save to the +wild goat, whilst the left-hand boundary, though still precipitous, +may be surmounted by active light-armed troops. On emerging from +the orchards we came upon a grass meadow extending to the fort of +Badjgh[=a]r, which is again situate at the mouth of a defile leading +to M[=a]ther, the route we eventually pursued. The fort is capable of +containing about two hundred men; when first taken possession of it +was literally choked with filth and abominations of all kinds, but the +industry of the little garrison had succeeded in giving it an air of +cleanliness and comfort. As a military position it is most faulty, and +it is really astonishing to conceive how heedless those who fixed +upon it as a post of such importance must have been of the manifold +weakness of the place; from the surrounding heights it has the +appearance of being situated in a deep dyke; it is completely hemmed +in, and juzzaelmen occupying the adjacent hills could easily find +cover from whence they might pour in so destructive a fire as to +render the place untenable. In addition to these defects, the fort of +Badjgh[=a]r is unprovided with a well within its defences; this, +as has before been remarked, is a common case, but still it would +materially affect the integrity of a force within, as they would be +reduced to the necessity of frequent sallies to the neighbouring +stream to obtain water. + +We found Capt. Hay in no enviable position; he had but one European to +assist him in his various important duties; the three or four officers +who were nominally attached to the corps being either on detachment or +other military employ, so that with such slender aid as one European +sergeant, it was very hard work for him to keep up discipline amongst +a brave but half savage band, to provide for their subsistence, keep a +sharp look-out on his front and flanks, and remain on good terms +with the neighbouring chiefs, whose conflicting interests, lawless +propensities, and savage nature were continually requiring his +mediation or interference. + +"_Quem deus vult perdere prius dementat_" is an old saw most +applicable to the conduct, or rather want of conduct of the "powers +that were" during the spring of 1841, and the state of the important +outpost of Badjgh[=a]r is a type of the condition of most of the +detached posts throughout the kingdom of Cabul; the dreadful +catastrophe which ushered in the year 1842 is but too unanswerable a +proof of the opinion I here express; and though innumerable instances +of individual gallantry as well amongst the unlettered privates as the +superior officers have thrown a halo round their bloody graves, the +stern truth still forces itself upon us, that the temporary eclipse of +British glory was not the consequences of events beyond the power of +human wisdom to foresee or ward off, but the natural results of an +overweening confidence in our power, and of an infatuated blindness to +the sure indications of the coming storm which for many months before +it burst darkened our political horizon. + +It will easily be believed that the various duties entailed upon Capt. +Hay left him but little time for scientific researches, yet this +indefatigable officer had already made a fine collection of geological +specimens from the adjacent hills. I regret that circumstances prevent +me from giving any of the useful information which his industry +supplied. I am only able to say, that the fossils were generally found +in tertiary deposits, and were plentiful in quantity, but the variety +was not great. He had at the time of our visit made, likewise, +considerable progress in putting his position into as good a state +of defence as circumstances allowed; of course he had not means to +defilade his fort, but he had erected a breastwork four feet and a +half high across the defile, which would certainly be of great use in +checking any body of horsemen who might advance from the north, at +least for a time sufficient to enable the garrison to prepare for an +attack. The fort seemed a focus for all the rays of the sun, and was +intensely hot, the thermometer ranging from 95 to 110 in the shade; +nor was the situation healthy, for a great many Goorkahs were in +hospital, and all were more or less debilitated from the effects of +the climate. + +Whilst at Badjgh[=a]r we made the acquaintance of one of the chiefs, +Suyed Mahommed of the Dushti Suffaëd or _white desert_, through whose +country we eventually travelled; we found him an easy good-tempered +man, well inclined towards the British, but grasping and avaricious. +Throughout our intercourse with him he behaved well, but he took +occasion frequently to remind us we were not to forget that he looked +for a reward; still, in summing his character, I must say he was +superior to his "order;" for, either from the wish to lead a quiet +life or from his limited means and unwarlike disposition, he was not +given to feuds or chuppaos like his neighbours. He sent rather a +characteristic letter to Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, a chief whose dominions +were also on our line of route, recommending us to his notice, but +concluding by telling him to judge of us and act according to our +merits. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +On the 9th July we bade our kind friend Capt. Hay farewell, and many +were the prayers offered up for our safe return; the Goorkah soldiers +even accompanied us for three or four miles. Sturt had not been +supplied with any introductory letters from Sir William M'Naghten, +although he was sent on duty, for it was uncertain what kind of a +reception we might meet with amongst the chiefs of Toorkisth[=a]n, +and it was therefore deemed unadvisable to give us the character of +accredited agents, which would necessarily tend to mix us up with +politics. Though this plan may have been very wise on the part of +Government, yet it by no means contributed to our comfort, as we found +ourselves frequently the objects of suspicion. Some of the chiefs +plainly said, "you are come to survey our country, and eventually to +take possession;" but most of them cared very little whether we came +as friends or foes: they had little to lose and everything to gain +by a _row_. With a few of the more influential chiefs the case was +different; if we had caused Dost Mahommed, the all powerful Ameer of +C[=a]bul, to become a fugitive, what chance had they if our views led +us across the Hindoo Khoosh? Such was their mode of reasoning; but it +must be confessed that they were ignorant of the immense advantage +the rugged nature of their barren land would give them over a regular +army, and thus they were unable to form an idea of the value of the +resistance which a few determined mountaineers might oppose. Amongst +other wild schemes, I fancy that the idea was once entertained, or +at all events the question was mooted, of sending a force to +Bokh[=a]r[=a] to procure the release of poor Stoddart. Without +dwelling upon the enormous sacrifice of life and treasure which such +an expedition of magnitude sufficient to ensure success would entail, +I may be permitted to point out what from personal observation I have +been led to consider as the "least impossible" route. The line I +should recommend would be the one we pursued as far as Koollum, when +the force should so shape its route as to avoid the great sandy +desert, which extends for three hundred and fifty miles from Koollum +to Bokh[=a]r[=a], by keeping to the north, and "striking" the Oxus, +which is navigable for boats of heavy burthen for many hundred miles +above the capital. But even on this plan we must suppose the force +to have already surmounted the thousand and one passes which occur +between Cabul and Koollum. Much has been printed and a great deal more +written and wisely left _un_printed concerning the practicability of +these routes for a modern army; it savours of a useless truism to +state, that if the government making the attempt has resources +sufficient in men, transport, and treasure, and dwells not upon the +sacrifice of these three necessaries for an army, the thing may be +done; but I can hardly conceive any crisis in political affairs which +could render such a measure advantageous to the party undertaking it. +The advancing force will always suffer, whether it be Russia advancing +upon India, or India advancing towards Europe. The hand of God has +fixed the tremendous barrier; woe to him who would despise the +warning. + +Our route lay along the usual green vale so often described, bounded +by barren hills, over which a few inhabitants might occasionally be +seen stalking along in their dark-coloured garments, which harmonized +with the sombre character of the country. We pitched our tents +near the little fort of M[=a]ther, about five miles from our last +encampment, and situate at the foot of the Kara Kotul, or _black +pass_. Our resting place afforded nothing remarkable; and indeed +I feel that some apology is due to my readers for the unavoidable +sameness of the details of this part of our journey; but I am in hopes +that this very defect, though it render the perusal of my journal +still heavier, will assist in conveying an accurate idea of the nature +of the country; it is not my fault if we met with no adventures, no +hairbreadth escapes, or perilous encounters. I must once more crave +indulgence. + +The Affgh[=a]n soldiers of our escort did not much relish the +discipline I enforced. A complaint was made to me in the course of the +day by a peasant, that these warriors had most unceremoniously +broken down hedges, and entering his apricot orchard, had commenced +appropriating the fruit, responding to his remonstrances with threats +and oaths. I thought this a fine opportunity to read my savages a +lecture on the advantages of discipline and regular pay. I asked them +whether they were not now much better off than when employed by their +own countrymen, and whether they expected to be treated as regular +soldiers, and still be allowed to plunder the inoffensive inhabitants? +One of the men, who was evidently an orator, listened to me with more +attention than the rest, but with a look of evident impatience for the +conclusion of my harangue, that he too might show how well he could +reason. "My lord," said the man, putting himself into an attitude +worthy of the Conciliation-Hall, to say nothing of St. Stephen's, +"my lord, on the whole your speech is very excellent: your pay is +good--the best, no doubt, and very regular; we have not hitherto been +accustomed to such treatment; though you brought the evil the remedy +has come with it; your arrival in C[=a]bul has so raised the price +of provisions that we could not live on Affgh[=a]n pay; we have, +therefore, entered the service of the foreigner; but had we received +the same wages we now get from you, we should in our own service have +been gentlemen." Here the orator made a pause, but soon imagining from +my silence that his speech was unobjectionable, he boldly continued; +"but there is one powerful argument in favour of the Ameer's service, +_he_ always allowed us on the line of march to plunder from every +one; we have been brought up in this _principle(!!)_ since we were +children, and we find it very difficult to refrain from what has so +long been an established practice amongst us: we are soldiers, sir, and +it is not much each man takes; but the British are so strict, that +they will protect a villager or even a stranger:" this last sentence +was evidently pronounced under a deep sense of unmerited oppression. +"But," continued he, "look at that apricot orchard on the right, how +ripe and tempting is the fruit; if we were not under your orders, +those trees would in a moment be as bare as the palm of my hand." But +I remarked, "would not the owners turn out and have a fight; is it not +better to go through a strange country peaceably and making friends?" +"_They_ fight," answered my hero; "oh! they are Uzbegs and no men, +more like women--one Affghan can beat three Uzbegs." I was not quite +satisfied how far the vaunted pay and discipline would prevail over +the natural lawless propensities of _my army_, and in order not to try +their insubordination too much, I conceived that a compromise would be +the wisest plan, and giving them a few rupees, I desired them to make +the most they could out of them. Off they went highly delighted with +the results of the interview, clapping their orator on the back, +crying out _sh[=a]bash, sh[=a]bash, bravo, bravo_, and evidently +believing the gift of the rupees as entirely due to the eloquence +of their comrade. They are a simple people with all their savage +characteristics, but it is very sad to contemplate a whole nation as a +race of systematic plunderers. + +In the afternoon the chief of M[=a]ther called to pay his respects, +bringing a present of fruit and sheep's milk; the latter I found so +palatable, that I constantly drank it afterwards; it is considered +very nutritious, and is a common beverage in Toorkisth[=a]n, where the +sheep are milked regularly three times a day. Goats are very scarce, +cows not to be seen, but the sheep's milk affords nourishment in +various forms, of which the most common is a kind of sour cheese, +being little better than curdled milk and salt. Tea is also a +favourite drink, but is taken without sugar or milk; the former is +too expensive for the poorer classes, and all prefer it without the +latter. Sometimes a mixture such as would create dismay at an English +tea-table is handed round, consisting principally of tea-leaves, salt, +and fat, like very weak and very greasy soup, and to an European +palate most nauseous. We could never reconcile our ideas to its being +a delicacy. Tea is to be procured in all large towns hereabouts, of +all qualities and at every price; at C[=a]bul the highest price for +tea is £5 sterling for a couple of pounds' weight; but this is of very +rare quality, and the leaf so fine and fragrant that a mere pinch +suffices a moderate party. + +What would our tea-drinking old ladies say for a few pounds of that +delicious treasure? This superfine leaf reaches Cabul from China +through Thibet, always maintaining its price; but it is almost +impossible to procure it unadulterated, as it is generally mixed by +the merchants with the lesser priced kind. The most acceptable present +which a traveller could offer in Toorkisth[=a]n would be _fire-arms_ +or _tea_; the latter is a luxury they indulge in to excess, taking it +after every meal; but they seldom are enabled to procure it without +the lawless assistance of the former. + +On leaving M[=a]ther we commenced the ascent of the Kara Kotul or +Black Pass, which lasted for seven long miles and was very fatiguing. +The large masses of rock on either side the pathway were of a deep +brown colour. From the length and steepness of the ascent, this pass +must be higher than any we had hitherto surmounted; the descent on the +other side is difficult in proportion. The approach to Doa[=u]b is +through one of the most romantic glens conceivable. It is here that +the Koollum river takes its rise; it flows due north and soon reaches +a mountain meadow, where it unites with another stream coming from the +east, whence the name of the Doa[=u]b (two waters) is given to this +district. In this defile are scattered huge rocks, which have been +dislodged from the overhanging precipices by the effects of frost or +convulsions of the elements: in vain do these masses obstruct the +progress of the waters of this river. The torrent dashing in cataracts +over some of the large boulders and eddying round the base of others, +pursues an agitated course until it reaches the desert, through which +it glides more calmly, and combines with the Oxus beyond Koollum, +whence the confluent waters proceed uninterruptedly to the sea of +Aral. + +The banks of this river differ from those of the mountain streams in +general; they were decked with the most beautiful wild flowers, which +bloomed luxuriantly on the bushes, and growing from the deep clefts in +the rock, scented the air with their perfume. + +The glen is here so filled with large blocks of granite, that to +accomplish our passage through it, it was necessary to transfer by +manual labour the loads of the baggage animals across the obstructing +masses: the difficulties we encountered, and more particularly the +romantic scene itself, are still imprinted on my memory. + +The wind whistling round the jutting points, the dashing of the +waters, and the cries of one of the most timid of our followers, who +to save himself from wet feet had mounted an overladen pony, and was +now in imminent danger both of Scylla and Charybdis, added to the +interest of the picture; but, occasionally, the reverberation caused +by the fragments of rock, which, detaching themselves from the upper +regions, came tumbling down, not far from where we stood, warned us +not to dwell upon the spot. We took the hint, and hastily extricating +man and beast, though not until they had experienced a severe ducking, +we proceeded onwards to where the waters enclose within their +fertilizing arms the grassy fields of the mountain Doa[=u]b. Here it +was that we caught the first glimpse of the extensive plains where the +Toorkm[=a]n mares are turned out to graze; those in foal are left for +several months; and after foaling, the animals are put into smaller +pastures provided with enclosures, where they are shut up at night. +The extent of the larger savannahs is very great, some of them +exceeding twenty miles, and the horses that are allowed to range in +them become so shy, that their owners only can approach them, and the +animals are considered safe from depredators. + +As we gradually emerged from the hard bosom of the mountains, we were +struck with the simple beauty of this little garden of nature. The +vale is triangular, its greatest breadth being about five miles; +its whole extent is covered with a rich turf, intermingled by just +sufficient cultivated land as to supply the inhabitants with +grain. Every wild flower that enlivens our English meads grew here +luxuriantly, while the two streams crept along on either side like +silver threads bordering a jewelled carpet. This gay and brilliant +sight was enhanced by the lofty range of dark frowning hills which +encompassed it. It was worthy of being sung as the "Loveliest vale in +Toorkisth[=a]n." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +I have already mentioned that we had received a letter to Shah Pursund +Kh[=a]n, the chief of the Doa[=u]b, who accordingly came out to +welcome us to his territory; he embraced us in the Uzbeg fashion, +telling us in eastern phraseology "to consider his dominion as +our own, and that we might command all he possessed." After many +compliments of this nature, he inquired with some bluntness whither +we were bound and what our object was? We answered him, that we were +proceeding to Koollum, and were anxious to get as much information as +he would be good enough to afford us concerning so beautiful a portion +of the globe, and we wished to survey its particular features. "Mind," +rejoined he, "that the chief of Heibuk and the Meer Walli of Koollum +are my enemies, and may be yours." "If," answered Sturt, "we shall +meet with the same reception from them as we have hitherto enjoyed +from all other chiefs whose possessions we have had occasion to +trespass upon during our journeyings, we cannot complain of want of +either kindness or hospitality; for as travellers we come, and once +eating the 'salt of an Uzbeg,' we know that none would dishonour +himself by acting the traitor." "True," retorted the kh[=a]n, "but he +who is your friend while in his dominions will rob you as soon as you +set your foot across his frontier." We were not much pleased at this +prospect, as we knew he spoke truth when declaring himself at enmity +with the surrounding chiefs, but "sufficient for the day is the evil +thereof," so we made up our minds to take what advantage we could of +his friendly disposition towards us, and trust to our good fortune and +the "chapter of accidents" for our future safety. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n +did not confine his kindness to words, for he sent us an ample supply +of flour and clarified butter for our followers, grass and corn for +our cattle, and a sheep for ourselves; these sheep are of the +Doomba species, with large tails weighing several pounds, which are +considered the most delicate part of the animal. He also sent us from +his harem an enormous dish of foul[=a]deh, made of wheat boiled to a +jelly and strained, and when eaten with sugar and milk palatable and +nutritious. + +The following morning, as we were preparing to start, I happened to +enter into conversation with an aged moollah, the solitary cicerone of +the Doa[=u]b, who gave us a brief but very extraordinary account of a +cavern about seven miles off; our curiosity was so much excited by the +marvellous details we heard, that we determined to delay our departure +for the purpose of ascertaining how much of his story was due to the +wild imagination of our informant. We accordingly gave orders to +unsaddle, and communicated our intentions to the khan. At first he +strongly urged us not to put our plan into execution, declaring that +the cave was the domicile of the evil one, and that no stranger who +had presumed to intrude upon the privacy of the awful inhabitant had +ever returned to tell of what he had seen. It will easily be imagined +that these warnings only made us more determined upon visiting the +spot. At length, finding our resolution immovable, the kh[=a]n, much +to our astonishment, declared that it was not from personal fear, but +from anxiety for our safety that he had endeavoured to deter us, but +that, as we were obstinate, he would at least afford us the advantage +of his protection, and accompany us, I confess we were not sanguine in +our expectations that he would keep his word, and were not a little +surprised to see him shortly after issue forth from his fort fully +armed, and accompanied by his principal followers. We immediately made +all necessary preparations, and started on our visit to his satanic +majesty. + +A bridle-path conducted us for some miles along the edge of a gentle +stream, whose banks were clothed with long luxuriant grass extending +on either side for a few hundred yards; we proceeded rapidly at first, +keeping our horses at a hand gallop, as the path was smooth, and also +to escape from the myriads of forest-flies or blood-suckers which were +perpetually hovering around us, and irritating our cattle almost to +madness whenever we were obliged to slacken our pace; our tormentors, +however, did not pursue us beyond the limits of the pasture land, so +that we were glad to exchange the beauties of the prairie for the +stony barren ground which succeeded it. We soon reached the base of +a hill from whence the wished-for cavern was visible, situated about +half-way up its face. We were now obliged to dismount, and leaving +our horses under the charge of an Uzbeg, who could hardly conceal his +delight at being selected for the least dangerous duty, we commenced +the ascent. + +During our ride I had endeavoured to gather a few more particulars +concerning the dreaded cavern, and as might have been expected, the +anticipated horrors dwindled away considerably as we approached it; +still enough of the marvellous remained to keep my curiosity on the +stretch. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n confessed that he was not positive +that the devil actually lived there, but still, he said, it was very +probable; he had first heard of the existence of the cave when he +obtained possession of the Do[=a]ub twelve years ago, from the very +moollah who was our informant. Urged by a curiosity similar to our +own, he had ventured some little distance inside, but suddenly he came +upon the print of a naked foot, and beside it another extraordinary +impression, which he suspected to be from the foot of sheittan (the +devil) himself; quite satisfied that he had gone far enough, he +retreated precipitately, and from that day to this had never intruded +again. He argued that any _human_ being living in the cave would +require sustenance, and of course would purchase it at his fort, which +was the only one where the necessaries of life could be procured for +many miles around; but he knew every one who came to him, and no +stranger had ever come on such an errand; he therefore concluded +with an appealing look to the moollah who was with us. The moollah, +however, had a tale of his own to tell, and seemed to have no great +respect for the superstitious fears of his patron. "The name of the +cavern is Yeerm[=a]lik, and the fact of the matter is this," said he, +settling himself in his saddle for a long story. "In the time of the +invasion, six hundred years ago, of Genghis Kh[=a]n the Tartar, seven +hundred men of the Huzareh tribe, with their wives and families and a +stock of provisions, took possession of this cavern, hoping to escape +the fury of the ruthless invader, and never stirred beyond its mouth. +But the cruel Genghis, after wasting the country with fire and sword, +set on foot a strict search for such of the unfortunate inhabitants as +had fled from his tyranny. His bloodhounds soon scented the wretched +Huzarehs, and a strong party was sent to drive them from their place +of refuge. But despair lent to the besieged a courage which was not +the characteristic of their tribe, and knowing that, if taken alive, a +lingering torture and cruel death would be their fate, they resolved +to make good their defence at every hazard. The mouth of the cave was +small, and no sooner did the invaders rush in than they were cut down +by those inside; in vain were more men thrust in to take the place of +those slain; the advantages of position were too great, and they were +obliged at length to desist. But Genghis was not to be balked of his +victims, and his devilish cunning suggested the expedient of lighting +straw at the mouth of the cave to suffocate those inside, but the size +of the place prevented his plan from taking effect; so he at last +commanded a large fragment of rock to be rolled to the mouth of the +cavern, adding another as a support, and having thus effectually +barred their exit, he cruelly abandoned them to their fate. Of course +the whole party suffered a miserable death, and it is perhaps the +spirits of the murdered men that, wandering about and haunting it, +have given a suspicious character to the place; but," concluded he, +rather dogmatically, "the devil _does not_ live there now--it is too +cold!!"[*] + +[* Note: Those who have been familiarized to the atrocities +perpetrated by the French in Algeria will not feel the horror that the +moollah's tale would otherwise have excited; the similarity of these +outrages to humanity is so striking, that I quote a passage extracted +from the French paper, "The National," which will speak for itself. + +"The National gives a frightful picture of Marshal Bugeaud's doings +in Africa. According to the accounts published by this paper, +fifty prisoners were one day shot in cold blood--thirteen villages +burned--the Dahra massacre acted over again, for it appears that a +portion of a tribe having hid themselves in a cave, the same means +were resorted to exactly as those employed by Colonel Pelissier, and +all smoked and baked to death. The Marshal himself is the author of +all these horrors--his last triumph was a monster razzia--he has +ordered the most strict secresy as to his barbarous proceedings; and +the writer of the accounts calls him a second Attila, for he puts all +to the sword and fire, sparing only women and children."] + +After scrambling over loose stones, climbing up precipices, and +crawling round the projecting rocks, which consumed an hour, we found +ourselves on a small ledge in front of the outer aperture, which was +nearly circular and about fifty feet high. We were now in a cavern +apparently of no great extent, and as I could not discover any other +passage, I began to fancy that it was for this paltry hole we had +undergone so much fatigue, and had had our expectations raised so +high. I was about to give utterance to my disappointment, when I +perceived the Uzbegs preparing their torches and arranging the line of +march, in which it seemed that no one was anxious to take precedence. +I now began to look about me, in the hope that there was something +more to be seen, and was delighted to observe one adventurous hero +with a torch disappear behind some masses of rock. We all followed our +leader, and it was with great difficulty that, one by one, we managed +to squeeze ourselves through a narrow gap between two jagged rocks, +which I presume I am to consider as the identical ones that were +rolled to the mouth six hundred years ago at the stern command of the +Tartar Attila. + +I confess that hitherto I had treated the moollah's account as an +idle tale; my unbelief, however, was quickly removed, for just as we +entered the narrow passage the light of the torches was for an instant +thrown upon a group of human skeletons. I saw them but for an instant, +and the sight was quite sufficient to raise my drooping curiosity to +its former pitch. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +We proceeded down the sloping shaft, occasionally bruising ourselves +against its jagged sides, until our leader suddenly came to a dead +halt. I was next to him, and coming up as close as I could, I found +that one step further would have precipitated the adventurous guide +into an abyss, the bottom and sides of which were undistinguishable; +after gazing for a moment into this apparently insurmountable obstacle +to our further progress, I could just perceive a narrow ledge about +sixteen feet below me, that the eye could trace for a few yards +only, beyond which it was lost in the deep gloom surrounding us. Our +conductor had already made up his mind what to do: he proceeded to +unwind his long narrow turban composed of cotton cloth, and called to +his comrades to do the same; by joining these together they formed a +kind of rope by means of which we gradually lowered each other, till +at last a party ten in number were safely landed on the ledge. We left +a couple of men to haul us up on our return, and proceeded on our way, +groping along the brink of the yawning chasm. Every now and then loose +stones set in motion by our feet would slip into this bottomless pit, +and we could hear them bounding down from ledge to ledge, smashing +themselves into a thousand fragments, till the echoes so often +repeated were like the independent file-firing of a battalion of +infantry. Sometimes the narrow path would be covered for a distance of +many feet with a smooth coat of ice, and then it was indeed dangerous. +After moving on in this way for some minutes, the road gradually +widened till we found ourselves on the damp and dripping flooring of a +chamber of unknown dimensions; the torch light was not strong enough +to enable us to conceive the size of this subterraneous hall, but all +around us lay scattered melancholy proofs that there was some sad +foundation for the moollah's story. Hundreds of human skeletons were +strewed around; as far as the eye could penetrate these mournful +relics presented themselves; they were very perfect, and had evidently +not been disturbed since death; some had more the appearance of the +shrivelled-up remains which we find in the Morgue on the road to +the Grand St. Bernard, and lay about us in all the varied positions +induced by their miserable fate. Here, it seemed that a group had, +while sufficient strength yet remained, huddled themselves together, +as if to keep up the vital warmth of which death so slowly and yet +so surely was depriving them; a little farther on was a figure in a +sitting posture, with two infants still clasped in its bony arms; +and then again the eye would fall upon some solitary figure with +outstretched limbs, as if courting that death which on the instant +responded to the call. Involuntarily my thoughts recurred to Dante's +beautiful description of the Comte Ugolino's children and their +piteous end in the Torre della Fame--but here, a sickening sense of +the dreadful reality of the horrors, which it was evident from these +mute memorials of man's cruelty to his fellow had been endured, quite +oppressed me, and I wished I had never visited the spot. I felt myself +so much harrowed by this sad scene, that I endeavoured to distract +my attention; but what was my astonishment when my eye fell upon the +print of a human naked foot, and beside it the distinct mark of the +pointed heel of the Affgh[=a]n boot!--I hope my reader will give me +credit for truth--I can assure him that it was some time before I +could believe my own eyes, though I considered that the result of our +explorations would explain in part the sight, which appeared to me +so extraordinary, and which tallied so strangely with the footprints +which had frightened Shah Pursund Khan twelve years ago. I was still +absorbed in reflections of no very gay colour, when one of the +attendants warned me that if I staid all day amongst the "dead +people," there would not be sufficient oil to feed the torches, and we +should be unable to visit the Ice Caves. I was immediately roused, +and proceeded onwards with the party through several low arches and +smaller caves,--suddenly a strange glare spread itself about me, and +after a few more steps a magnificent spectacle presented itself. + +[Illustration: Drawn by Mr Gempertz Pelham Richardson Litho + +View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik.] + +In the centre of a large cave stood an enormous mass of clear ice, +smooth and polished as a mirror, and in the form of a gigantic beehive, +with its dome-shaped top just touching the long icicles which depended +from the jagged surface of the rock. A small aperture led to the +interior of this wonderful congelation, the walls of which were nearly +two feet thick--the floor, sides, and roof were smooth and slippery, +and our figures were reflected from floor to ceiling and from side to +side in endless repetition. The inside of this chilly abode was divided +into several compartments of every fantastic shape; in some the glittering +icicles hung like curtains from the roof; in others the vault was +smooth as glass. Beautifully brilliant were the prismatic colours +reflected from the varied surface of the ice, when the torches flashed +suddenly upon them as we passed from cave to cave. Around, above, +beneath, every thing was of solid ice, and being unable to stand on +account of its slippery nature, we slid or rather glided mysteriously +along the glassy surface of this hall of spells. In one of the largest +compartments the icicles had reached the floor, and gave the idea of +pillars supporting the roof. Altogether the sight was to me as novel +as it was magnificent, and I only regret that my powers of description +are inadequate to do justice to what I saw. + +After wandering for some time amongst these extraordinary chambers, we +proceeded further to examine the nature of the caverns in which they +were formed: these seemed to branch out into innumerable galleries, +which again intersected each other. Sometimes they expanded into +halls, the dimensions of which our feeble light prevented us from +calculating, and anon they contracted into narrow passages, so low +that we were obliged to creep along them on our hands and knees. Our +party had just emerged from one of these defiles and were standing +together on a kind of sloping platform, at which point the declivity +seemed to become more precipitous as it receded from our sight, +when our attention was suddenly arrested by the reappearance of the +mysterious naked footprints which I had before observed in the chamber +of skeletons. I examined them minutely, and am certain from the spread +of the toes that they belonged to some one who was in the habit of +going barefoot. I took a torch, and determined to trace them as far as +I could. Had I met with these prints in the open air, I should have +decided upon their being quite fresh, but the even temperature and +stillness of atmosphere which reigned in these strange regions might +account for the tracks retaining that sharpness of outline which +denotes a recent impression. The direction I took led me immediately +down the slope I have just mentioned, and its increasing steepness +caused me some misgivings as to how I should get back, when suddenly a +large stone on which I had rested my foot gave way beneath my weight, +and down I came, extinguishing my torch in my fall. Luckily I managed +to stop myself from rolling down the fearful chasm which yawned +beneath, but the heavy rounded fragment of rock rolled onwards, first +with a harsh grating sound, as if it reluctantly quitted its resting +place, then, gradually acquiring impetus, down it thundered, striking +against other rocks and dragging them on with it, till the loud echoes +repeated a thousand times from the distant caves mingling with the +original sound raised a tumult of noise quite sufficient to scare a +braver crew than our party consisted of. The effect of my mishap was +instantaneous. Our followers raised an universal shout of Sheit[=a]n, +Sheit[=a]n, (the devil, the devil,) and rushed helter skelter back +from the direction of the sound. In the confusion all the torches +carried by the natives were extinguished, and had not my friend Sturt +displayed the most perfect coolness and self-possession, we should +have been in an alarming predicament; for he (uninfluenced by any such +supernatural fears as had been excited amongst the runaways by the +infernal turmoil produced by my unlucky foot, and though himself +ignorant of the cause of it from having been intent upon the footmarks +when I slipped), remained perfectly unmoved with his torch, the only +one still burning, raised high above his head, waiting patiently till +the panic should subside. Order was at length restored in some degree, +but the thirst of enterprise was cooled, and the natives loudly +declared they would follow the devil no farther, and that we must +return forthwith. Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, who was just as great a coward +as the rest, declared it was no use following the track any more, for +it was well known the cavern extended to Cabul!!! Finding it useless +endeavouring to revive the broken spirits of these cravens, we +reluctantly commenced a retrograde movement, and I was obliged to +remain in lasting ignorance of the nature of the mysterious origin of +the footprint. + +We had considerable difficulty in finding our way back to the ice +rooms; the fears of our followers had now completely got the better of +them; they lost their presence of mind, and, consequently, their way; +and it was not till after we had wandered about for more than an hour +that we hit upon the ledge which eventually led us to the drop which +we had originally descended by means of the ladder of turbans. At the +head of this drop we had left a couple of men to haul us up; as soon +as they perceived the light of our expiring torches, they called out +loudly to us to make haste and get out of the place, for they had seen +the _Sheit[=a]n_, about an hour ago, run along the ledge beneath them, +and disappear in the gloom beyond. This information raised the terror +of the poor natives to a climax; all made a rush for the rope of +turbans, and four or five having clutched hold of it, were in the act +of dragging down turban, men, and torches upon our devoted heads, when +Sturt interfered, and by his firm remonstrances, aided by the timely +fall of a few well-aimed stones upon the heads of the crew, made them +relax their grasp and ascend one by one. + +The chief, being the lightest, claimed the privilege of being drawn up +first, which was readily agreed to; and so in succession each when he +had mounted assisted in drawing up his companions, till at last we +were all safely landed at the top, out of the reach of _any ordinary +sized_ devil. We soon emerged into the open air, covered with dust +from head to foot like Indian Faqueers, after having been for nearly +four hours wandering in the bowels of the earth. Our followers soon +regained their courage now that the danger was past, and each in turn +began to boast of his own valour and sneer at the pusillanimity of his +comrade; but all agreed that nothing on earth or in heaven should ever +tempt them again to visit the ice-caves of Yeermallick. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +On the 13th of July we bade adieu to our friend Shah Pursund Kh[=a]n, +who accompanied us a short distance on our way, after in vain +endeavouring to induce us to remain with him for some time longer, +this we could not accede to, but promised, if our time permitted, to +pay him a lengthened visit on our return. We had a long march this +day, the distance being nearly eighteen miles; but our beasts of +burden were much the better for their day's halt, and, the greater +part of the road being a descent, we reached Rhoeh, where we pitched +our tents, in very good time. The first few miles were along the +delightful valley of the Doaub, which we reluctantly quitted, and +after crossing a low ridge descended through broken country till we +reached the foot of the hills, where I observed for the first time +a genuine Tartar krail, composed of a number of small black blanket +tents fastened to a kind of wattle. In the plain of Rhoeh is a small +mud fort in a dilapidated state, and uninhabited; the village itself +was not of any importance, the habits of the people being evidently +migratory. + +The Jerboa is a native of this country as well as the steppes of +Tartary, where it is most commonly found in the shrubless plains; +in form it is a miniature of the kangaroo, to which in some of its +peculiarities it bears a close resemblance, though in size it is very +little larger than our common English rat. The name of the "Vaulting +Rat," by which it is known among naturalists, is very applicable. +These little animals burrow deeply in the ground, and the method of +dislodging them adopted by us was the pouring a quantity of water into +their holes, which causes them to rush out at another aperture, when +they commence leaping about in a surprising manner until they observe +another burrow and instantly disappear. If chased, they spring from +the hind quarters, darting about here and there, and affording great +amusement to the pursuers. It is difficult to hold them, as they are +rarely grasped without losing a portion of their long and beautiful +tails. The forelegs are much shorter than the hind ones, the ears are +very large and silky, and the eye surpassingly black and brilliant. +It is a harmless animal, and no doubt when tamed would be perfectly +domesticated. + +Nothing of interest occurred either this day or the next, which +brought us, after another dreary march of seventeen miles, to the fort +and village of Koorrum. For nearly the whole distance between Rhoeh +and Koorrum not a drop of water is procurable; as we had not provided +against this contingency, we suffered in proportion. Altogether this +part of the road offers considerable obstacles to the progress of an +army, from its numerous ravines and steep though short ascents and +descents, which would be very difficult for artillery; I should, from +a cursory glance at the country, imagine that these steep pitches +might be avoided by a more circuitous route, though the one we pursued +was the beaten track for the caravans, and they generally find out the +most convenient passage. The approach to Koorrum was pretty, but the +scenery was of a character with which we were now so familiar that +its peculiar beauties did not perhaps impress us as much as when they +afforded the additional charm of novelty. A succession of walnut, +apricot, mulberry, and apple trees shaded our path, which lay through +extensive orchards, carpeted with beautiful turf. The vines clung to +the sycamore trees; and where the spade had been at work, corn and +artificial grasses grew in abundance. Our next halting place was +Sarbagh, where we arrived on the 15th, after marching through a +pleasant and fruitful valley, flanked by parallel belts of mountain +land, the agreeable verdure relieving the eye from the barrenness of +this, I may call it, parietal range. The ornamental trees which fringe +the banks of the Koollum river, as it gracefully pursues its course to +the Oxus, had altogether a very picturesque appearance. + +The son of Baber Beg, the chief of Heibuk, was at this time residing +at Sarbagh, and shewed us every possible attention, sending us sheep, +fowls, corn, flour, fruit, and every article required for about +seventy people. It was very gratifying to us to find that we were +treated by the Uzbeg chiefs in so friendly a manner, as we had some +misgivings lest our being unprovided with any letters from influential +men in C[=a]bul, might create unfavourable surmises amongst a +half-savage and naturally suspicious race. Doubtless we gained a large +portion of attention and civility from the idea which pervaded all our +hosts that we were great hakeems, _physicians_, and if we chose, +could relieve the human body from every illness whether real or +imaginary--and I was glad to remark that the latter class of ailment +was by far the most common. Still, some diseases were very prevalent, +particularly those which may be considered as induced by a total +absence of cleanliness. Sore eyes were very common here, as in +Affghanist[=a]n, and our powers and medicine chest were sometimes +rather too severely taxed by importunate applicants, who never would +apply the remedy in the manner described, unless it was administered +upon principles which they understood, and which was in accordance +with their own reasoning. In C[=a]bul, the medical officers were the +only class of Europeans allowed an entrance to the harems of the rich, +when they were expected after feeling the pulse of some Cashmerian +beauty to pronounce her malady, and effect her cure forthwith. The +lords of the creation too, debilitated from early dissipation or a +life of debauchery, sued for remedies and charms, which, alas! are +only to be found in the hundredth edition of a work known by its +mysterious advertisement in the columns of a London newspaper. + +On the 16th, after a long march of twenty-two miles, we approached +Heibuk through the same kind of scenery as the preceding day; on +rounding a projecting ledge of rock we saw that fortress in the +distance, on an insulated eminence adjacent to a low range of hills. +Meer Baber Beg has placed his fortress in a very respectable state +of defence, quite adequate to repel the desultory inroads of his +predatory neighbours; but commanded by and exposed to enfilade from +the hills about it, on one of these hills he has built a tower as a +kind of outwork, but it is very weak and of insignificant size. + +The only thing worth seeing near Heibuk is the Tukt-i-Rustum or Throne +of Hercules, which we accordingly visited, and found it to be a +fortification of no very great extent on a most uncommon principle, +and of unknown date. The best idea I can convey to the reader of its +shape, is by begging him to cut an orange in half, and place its +flat surface in a saucer; he will then have a tolerable model of the +Tukt-i-Rustum. We entered by a narrow gallery piercing through the +solid mass of rock which forms the outer wall or saucer, and leading +by an irregular flight of steps to the summit of the orange. I +instituted many enquiries concerning the origin of this place, but +I could obtain no information; not even a legend beyond that it was +holy. We were accompanied by one of the chief's sons, a fat jolly +youth of about four-and-twenty, with a countenance that was a type of +his good humour--he sat with us for some time whilst we were at our +toilette, but affected to be somewhat shocked at the very scanty +clothing which we considered sufficient while our Bheesties poured the +contents of their mussocks[*] over us. It was rather amusing to hear +the remarks of the bystanders, who seemed to view cleanliness as +a consideration very secondary to etiquette. It would have been +fortunate for us if I could have persuaded our criticising friends to +try on their own persons the advantage of a dash of fresh water, for +they were without exception the most filthy race it has ever been my +misfortune to meet; their garments teem with life, and sometimes, +after merely sitting on the same rug placed to receive visitors, I +have been under the necessity of making a fresh toilette. + +[* Note: Skins of water.] + +Meer Baber Beg was a great man in these parts, and kindly sent us +three sheep, with fowls, flour, fruits, and grain in abundance, +intimating, at the same time, his intention to pay us a visit in the +evening. He came accordingly, and favoured us with his presence for a +considerable time. He seemed an intelligent man, but in a very infirm +state of health, and quite crippled from rheumatism. One would hardly +have supposed, while admiring his pleasing features, which expressed +so much benignity, that when on the throne of Koollum he had been such +a bloody tyrant; yet such was the case;--though the hereditary ruler +of Koollum and its dependencies, he had by his brutality made himself +so obnoxious, that he was deposed by his own subjects headed by his +younger brother, and dare not now shew his face on his paternal +estate. + +This corpulent son whom I have before mentioned brought a +double-barrelled percussion gun for my inspection, and requested that +I would test its qualities on some pigeons that were flying about; +I was fortunate enough to bring down a couple on the wing, but was +somewhat mortified to find that the burst of admiration which followed +my feat was entirely confined to the weapon, which, together with the +donor, Dr. Lord, was praised to the skies, whilst no kind of credit +was given to my skill in using it. + +We halted at Heibuk on the 17th, as the Meer requested we would stay a +day with him before putting ourselves in the power of the dreaded Meer +Walli of Koollum. At first he endeavoured to persuade us to abandon +our project of proceeding further, but, finding us determined, he +contented himself with relating every possible story he could remember +or invent concerning the many acts of cruel treachery which the +Meer Walli had perpetrated, and concluded by an eulogium on his own +manifold virtues. + +During the course of the day a Hindoo from Peshawur peeped cautiously +into my tent, and, on my inquiring his business, he approached, and +with many salaams, laid a bag of money at my feet; rather astonished +at so unusual an offering, I requested to know the cause of this act +of generosity, and I was informed that it was a "first offering," or, +in other words, a bribe to propitiate me, in the hope that I would use +my influence to get the Hindoo out of the clutches of Meer Baber Beg. +The story he told me was, that some years back he came to Heibuk to +trade, and having made a little money was packing up his property +preparatory to his departure, when he was suddenly ordered into the +Meer's presence. "Friend," said this benign ruler, "stay here a +little longer; it is not right that, having made a sum of money in my +country, you should spend it in your own." Since then, he added, he +had been ill-treated and robbed several times to satisfy the rapacity +of this wicked monster; and then, as if frightened at his own +expressions, he peered cautiously round the tent, apparently fancying +the Meer himself would start from behind the screen to punish him for +his audacity. I returned him his 250 rupees, but told him if his story +were true I would use what little influence I possessed to procure his +release. When Baber Beg came to pay us his evening visit I broached +the subject, and requested as a favour that the Hindoo might be +permitted to accompany our party as a guide and interpreter. "If you +will take my advice," said he, "you will have nothing to say to the +scoundrel, who will come to a bad end: he has been deceiving you; but +if, after my warning, you still wish to have him as a guide, take him +by all means." + +Accordingly I took him, but in justice to the Meer's discrimination of +character it must be owned that my protegé, as soon as he considered +himself safe from the Meer's indignation, proved himself to the +full as great a scoundrel as he had been represented. The following +morning, before taking our departure, Sturt presented to the Meer's +youngest son a handsome pair of percussion pistols, for which the +father seemed so very grateful that I could not help suspecting he +intended to appropriate them to his own use as soon as we were well +away. + +On leaving the fortress of Heibuk we passed through a very extensive +cultivated district, the principal produce being the grain which in +Hindoostan is called jow[=a]r. The remaining portion of our journey to +Hazree Soolt[=a]n, which was a distance of eighteen miles, was nothing +but a barren waste with occasional patches of low jungle. We were now +evidently on the farthest spur of the Hindoo Khoosh; the hills were +low and detached, gradually uniting into the endless plain which +bounded the horizon to the north and west. On the road we met a +messenger who was on his way to Sir Alexander Burnes at K[=a]bul, +having come from Bokhara, bearing a letter from the _Vakeel_, or +native ambassador, whom Sir Alexander had sent some time back to +endeavour, by persuasion or stratagem, to effect the release of our +unfortunate countryman, Col. Stoddart. The courier, who had received +the account from the Vakeel, whether true or false he could not +inform us, stated "that Col. Stoddart accompanied the Persian army to +Her[=a]t, and finding they could not make the desired impression +on the walls, raised the siege, and the Colonel left the army and +proceeded across to Bokhara, whether to endeavour to effect the +release of the Russian slaves, (there being many in the dominions of +the Bokhara King,) or merely for amusement, he could not say; but that +the latter was the generally received opinion. On approaching the city +of the tyrant king he met a man riding furiously away with a woman, +and as she passed, called out to the Colonel Amaun, Amaun! mercy, +mercy! whereupon he immediately galloped up to the ravisher, and +securing the deliverance of the woman, told her to keep under his +protection until he entered the city. On the first day after +his arrival the King passed as the Colonel was riding on +horseback, and although the latter gave the salute usual +in his own country, it did not satisfy the ruler; moreover, he, the +Feringhi, was on horseback without permission, and therefore the Khan +ordered him the following day into his presence. Messengers the next +morning were sent, who abruptly entered the Colonel's house, and +finding he would not willingly submit, dragged him before their chief. +He was asked, why he had infringed the customs of the country by +riding on horseback in the city, and why he did not pay the recognised +submission to the ruler of a free country? The reply was, that the +same compliment had been paid to the King of Bokhara as was customary +in Europe to a crowned head. And why have you presumed to ride on +horseback within the city walls, where no Feringhi is allowed? Because +I was ignorant of the custom. It's a lie; my messengers ordered you +to dismount and you would not. 'Tis true, they did order me and I did +not, but I thought they were doing more than their duty. After this +the King ordered him into confinement, where he now is." + +The courier, after giving us this information, remarked that he +was penniless, and that as his business concerned the safety of a +countryman, he hoped we would assist him. Though we were not quite +satisfied with the man's story, we stood the chance of its being true, +and furnished him with funds for the prosecution of his journey, +for which, on our return to Cabul, we were kindly thanked by Sir +Alexander, who informed us that the note from the Vakeel conveyed the +intelligence of the failure of his endeavours, and that he had himself +been put in confinement. + +At the time of which I am writing both Dost Mahommed Kh[=a]n and his +notorious son Akbar were prisoners at Bokhara; but the means taken +by _their_ friends to release them were more successful than those +adopted by our politicals at Cabul. It appears that the chief at Shere +Subz had for some time been at enmity with his Bokhara neighbour, and, +wishing to do Dost Mahommed a good turn, he picked out fifty of the +most expert thieves in his dominions--a difficult selection where the +claims of all to this bad preeminence were so strong--but the Shere +Subz chief was from experience a tolerable judge of the qualifications +of an expert rogue, and having pitched upon his men, he promised them +valuable presents, provided they effected, by whatever means they +might choose to adopt, the release of the Dost; hinting at the same +time that if they failed he should be under the necessity of seizing +and selling their families. The thieves were successful, and at the +expiration of a month the Dost was free. + +If we could have interested the chief of Shere Subz in our favour by +presents and fair words, might not the same means have been employed +for the rescue of poor Stoddart? The only way to deal with a ruffian +like him of Bokhara would have been by pitting against him some of his +own stamp. + +The King of Bokhara has several times endeavoured to coerce the +Shere Subz's chief, but the instant a hostile force appears on his +frontiers, the latter causes the whole of his country to be inundated, +so that the invader is obliged to retire, and is by this stratagem +kept at a respectful distance. + +Another traveller came across us this day, who had resided for some +years at Kok[=a]n, and furnished us with some account of the nature of +the Chinese garrison of that fort. It is situated on an isolated rock, +and every five years relieved with men, provisions, and ammunition; +the flanks of the bastions are armed with ponderous wall pieces, +requiring three men to work them. Chambers are also bored in the live +rock, from whence enormous masses of stone might be discharged on an +assailing foe. The Kok[=a]nese have often attempted to dislodge the +intruders, but owing to the good state of defence in which the fort +is kept, and the strong escorts under which the reliefs are regularly +forwarded, they have been always repulsed with severe loss. My +informant had been in the service of the Kok[=a]nese, and was now on +his way to Hindoostan; in military notions he must have been of the +famous Captain Dugald Dalgetty's school, for I afterwards met him as a +non-commissioned officer in Shah Seujah's Goorkah battalion. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + +A march of eighteen miles brought us on the 19th July to Koollum. + +[Illustration: Drawn by J. Cowell Esq! Pelham Richardson Litho + +View of Koollum, from the eastward.] + +The road continued along the banks of the river, through a wide valley +bounded by low distant hills for nearly the whole way. Towards the end +of our journey a spur from these hills struck right across the direction +of the river, which had forced for itself a passage through the obstacle +without deviating much from its rectilinear course, but considerably +disturbing its previously placid character, for here it rushed with +impetuous violence through the narrow cleft which it had formed, through +this, the most advanced outpost of the glorious range of the Hindoo +Khoosh. The defile, though short, was difficult of access and capable of +being long defended; there is a small tower about the centre, slightly +removed from and commanding the road: but a mere handfull of troops +stationed on the crags above could, by hurling down the loosened masses +of rock which totter on the edge of the cliff, for a time effectually +stop the progress of a hostile army from either side. I should imagine, +however, that this as well as every other pass I have ever seen except +the Khyber and Bolun would be more easily turned than forced. + +On emerging from this last defile, a prospect presents itself strongly +contrasting with the romantic scenery we had recently been witnessing. +Immediately before us lay the populous city of Koollum, the fortress +standing on a small isolated eminence, and the dome-shaped houses +embosomed in the deep foliage of their gardens and orchards clustered +round it for miles on every side. Immediately on the outskirts of the +city the desert commences, which, stretching away to Bokhara as far as +the eye could reach, formed a melancholy and uninviting background +to the busy scene before us. As we approached the city, we had our +misgivings as to the nature of our reception by the Meer Walli, as, +contrary to the treatment we had invariably experienced from the +chiefs of all the considerable places through which we had had +occasion to pass since entering Toorkisth[=a]n, no one appeared on the +part of the Meer to welcome us. At length, after wandering about the +suburbs for more than an hour, followed by a crowd of gaping idlers +who seemed half disposed to question our right of _squatting_, we +selected an open space and commenced unloading our baggage animals, +and prepared to establish ourselves. + +Our spirits were raised, however, soon after, by the welcome arrival +of an officer of the Meer's household, who was sent by his master +to convey us to the caravanserai, where, after a short period, we +received three or four sheep with fruit and other provisions of all +descriptions, which supply was regularly continued during the whole +time we remained at Koollum. Our uneasiness, thus quieted, was soon +entirely dispelled by a message announcing that a visit from the great +man himself would take place in the evening. We must have been rather +difficult to please, however, on this particular day, for after the +wished-for visit was over, we both agreed that it had been dreadfully +tiresome; to be sure, as fate would have it, we had not had time to +eat our dinner before his arrival, and etiquette obliged us to defer +eating till after his departure, which did not release us till past +midnight, though he made his appearance soon after eight o'clock. + +In person the Meer Walli was certainly very prepossessing; his voice +was peculiarly musical, and his manner gentlemanly and easy; his face +would have been eminently handsome but for a dreadful wound by which +he had lost a portion of his nose. At this our first interview nothing +relative to our own future proceedings was discussed, though that +was the subject uppermost in our own minds, as we could not but feel +ourselves entirely at the mercy of a robber prince of notorious +character. As it was, the conversation was made up of those +compliments and common-places with which the Orientals know so well +how to fill up "awkward pauses," when, for reasons of their own, they +do not intend talking upon the real business. He very politely acceded +to our request of visiting the bazaar the following morning, which +being market-day, the influx of strangers from the Tartar encampments +at the different oases of the Bokhara Desert, and country people from +the Toorkisth[=a]n mountains, was very great. One of his household was +always in attendance as we passed out of the gate of the caravanserai, +where we lodged, to conduct us about, and act in the double capacity +of spy and cicerone. The city was crowded, and our appearance excited +considerable sensation--much more so in truth than was pleasant, for +we were followed wherever we went by a very curious and a very dirty +crowd. We had heard a good deal about the Mahommedan college at +Koollum, and of course were very anxious to see what comparison +existed between it and our own colleges: we could trace none beyond +the term of college. The house itself was new and capacious, with +clean-looking apartments for the scholars. We entered the halls +of study, which were long narrow verandahs, and found several +white-bearded and sagacious-looking Moollahs reading out portions of +the Kor[=a]n to their attentive scholars, with a grave countenance and +a loud nasal twang, exciting a propensity to laughter which I with +difficulty repressed. I do not think the reasoning of the college is +very deep, or that the talents of its senior wrangler need be very +first-rate, and am inclined to suspect that this pompous reading +was got up for the occasion for the purpose of astonishing the weak +intellects of the Feringhee strangers. + +From the college we proceeded to the slave market, which was well +furnished, and chiefly supplied from the ever victimized Huzarehs; the +women were generally ill-favoured, but all appeared contented with +their lot so that _somebody_ purchased them. After making the tour of +the city in search of wonders, we returned home, hot, wearied, and +disappointed, for we had found nothing to repay us for the annoyances +we had been subjected to from the impertinent curiosity of the filthy +multitude. Our own intentions were to get away from Koollum in order +to be able to reach Balkh and return to C[=a]bul before the cold +weather should set in; but alas! our wishes were not destined to be +fulfilled. Our uneasiness concerning the real intentions of the Meer +was again excited towards the evening, for one of our followers came +to us almost frantic with terror, stammering out as soon as his +nervous state permitted him to speak, that he had heard it stated as a +notorious fact that we were all to be detained at Koollum--that such +was the pleasure of the Meer. The reader will believe that this +intelligence was any thing but satisfactory; I could not help +conjuring up visions of a long and wearisome captivity--of hope +deferred and expectations disappointed--with Stoddart's melancholy +situation as a near precedent. I managed to make myself for a short +time as thoroughly uncomfortable as if I were already a prisoner, but +soon a sense of the great foolishness of indulging in this tone of +thought came over me, and making a strong effort to shake off the +gloomy shadows of an imaginary future, I betook myself to consider the +best means of ascertaining, in the first instance, the truth of the +report, which if I had done so at once would have saved me a good deal +of painful thought. As a preliminary step I desired a couple of our +Affgh[=a]n escort to proceed, so as not to excite suspicion, to the +bourj or _watch tower_ in the centre of the defile by which we had +approached Koollum, and through which our only retreat must have been, +to ascertain if the post was occupied by any of the Meer's people. +They soon brought us the satisfactory intelligence that not a man +was to be seen; but the Affgh[=a]ns qualified their information by +persisting in their opinion that some treachery was intended. So +strong was this feeling amongst our men that it became imperatively +necessary that our doubts should be resolved into certainty one way +or the other, and Sturt and I, after a short consultation, determined +that at the interview which was to take place next morning we should +put the question to the chief categorically. Having come to this +conclusion, we were obliged to smoke the "pipe of patience" on the +"couch of uncertainty" till the Meer Walli arrived. + +The Meer made his appearance the following morning, and, after the +usual compliments, to our great astonishment himself touched on the +subject. "I have heard," said he, "that you have sent out spies to see +if the Bourj in the defile is occupied, and if any of my people +are abroad to restrain your movements." This was rather an ominous +commencement: "but," continued the old gentleman, "if such had been my +intention, could I not have put the whole of you into confinement the +moment you arrived? At all events, what could you and your party +do against my force?" Sturt glanced his eye at the speaker; for an +instant, too, it rested on me, as if to read my opinion; then he +boldly answered, "You may outnumber us by thousands, but you will +never capture us alive." He said this so calmly, with such politeness +of manner, and yet so firmly, that the Meer was evidently taken aback: +at length he replied, "But no such piece of villainy has ever entered +my head." He then adroitly changed the subject, and shortly after took +his leave. + +When he was gone we held another council of war. It was by no means +clear that the last declaration of the chief was a sincere one; but +it might have been a temporizing answer elicited by the perhaps +unexpected boldness of Sturt's remark. We determined, at all events, +to keep on the alert, guard against any surprise, avoid as much as +possible offering any pretext for offence, and, if the worst came to +the worst, make as good a resistance as we could. + +The next day we received a polite message, requesting an interview, +and asking us to visit him in his favourite garden. Under all +circumstances we deemed it best to allow it to appear that our +suspicions were dissipated, and we accordingly accepted the +invitation, and found the Meer seated on the chabooka, or _raised +platform of masonry_, under the shade of some magnificent trees. He +immediately commenced saying, "The reason I did not go out to meet you +as you approached my city is, that during the warm weather I sleep the +greater portion of the day and sit up enjoying the coolness of the +night air; but I sent a messenger to escort you in with all care, and +unfortunately _he missed the way_." Such an excuse was possible, but +not at all probable. We did not give him credit for telling the truth +about the guide, as there was only one road from Heibuk, and the +approach of our party to Koollum was known in the city several days +before our arrival. It was now evident to us that on our approach the +Meer Walli was undecided whether he should treat us as friends or +foes; it seemed that for the present he had determined in our favour, +but distrusting his capricious disposition we were only the more +anxious to get out of his reach, though we both agreed that the wisest +and safest plan would be to carry our heads very high and put a bold +front upon all our proceedings. This decision we came to whilst +sitting in the garden in the presence of the Meer. Suddenly we heard +a confused murmur behind us, and the heavy sound of the butt end of +several muskets striking the ground as in "ordering arms;" we turned +sharply round, and perceived with astonishment, not unmingled +with satisfaction, that six or eight of our Affgh[=a]n guard, +notwithstanding the numerous followers round the Meer, had entered the +garden of their own accord and placed themselves immediately in our +rear with bayonets fixed. The Meer appeared to take no notice of this +extraordinary intrusion, and after a few compliments permitted us to +withdraw. + +On returning to the caravanserai we inquired why the guard had acted +thus without orders; they told us they had secretly heard that +treachery was intended by the Meer towards us, and that therefore they +had deemed it their duty to protect us from any surprise; moreover, +that ten more of the guard had been stationed close outside the garden +ready to support them at a moment's notice. Our own opinion was that +at that time nothing of the kind was in contemplation, but it was +satisfactory to view the determined spirit which animated our men. +Strange anomaly that these very men who now came voluntarily forward +to protect our persons from insult at the imminent risk of their +lives, should have been found amongst those who, with their arms and +accoutrements, had deserted in a body from the British to the side of +the Ex-Ameer at the battle of Bamee[=a]n a few months after. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +Pursuant to our plan of appearing to have full confidence in the Meer +Walli's integrity of purpose, we affected to lay aside all personal +precaution and courted his society, of which, to say truth, he +seemed disposed to give us plenty. We had several interviews with +him,--indeed, hardly a day passed without his sending for and +honouring us with his presence for several hours. + +During these meetings we used every endeavour to sound the chief as to +his intentions with respect to us, without betraying an undue anxiety +on the subject, but could make very little out of him. + +Our conversation frequently turned on military matter, and many very +pertinent questions were put to us relative to our rank, pay, duties, +discipline, &c. On Sturt informing him that he was in the engineer +department, and that his particular duties were to construct bridges, +repair fortifications, superintend mining operations, and furnish +plans of attack, he was promptly asked, "In how long a time do you +think your army could take my fortress?" In about a quarter of an +hour, answered Sturt in his quiet way. "No, no," said the Meer with +some indignation, "I am sure you could not do so in so short a time;" +and then he paused, evidently making up his mind to tell us a story. +After a little, out it came. "That Feringhis should take my fortress, +the strongest in the world, in a quarter of an hour is impossible, +for it took me, with five hundred horsemen, double that time." Then, +apparently forgetting his anger in the anxiety to recount his own +exploits, he continued, "when I took possession of this fort I left +my army at a little distance, and selecting a few expert warriors, +I gallopped up to the gate of the fortress, which I found _open_. I +dashed in before the enemy were alarmed, and immediately proclaimed +that the place was taken by the victorious Merr Walli. The fools +believed me, and all ran away. By-and-bye my army came up and marched +quietly in." + +We had heard some time before that Dost Mahommed's eldest son, Meer +Ufzul Khan, was in Koollum, and it must be confessed that this +circumstance did not much contribute to our sense of security, for we +could not but feel that we might fairly expect he would not lose so +palpable an opportunity of doing us harm should he be so disposed. One +morning he sent us a polite message to request an interview, which of +course was readily granted. He came, looking pale and sorrowful, +and his tone and manner soon satisfied us that his intentions were +peaceable. After the usual compliments he entered on the subject of +his father's present position and political prospects; he remarked +that our _star was too bright_, and assured us that his father was +anxious to accede to any terms which the British might think fit to +impose short of banishing him to India, and strongly urged us to write +to our Government to that effect. We explained to Ufzul Khan that we +had received no instructions to act in a political capacity, and that +any interference on our part with the affairs of the nation might be +looked upon by our superiors as an unwarrantable piece of presumption. +He seemed much disappointed at the reply, and, at last, Sturt promised +to write and mention the conversation to the authorities, which he +did. I am not certain whether he wrote to Dr. Lord or Sir William +M'Naghten, nor can be positive that his letter ever reached its +destination--at all events, it was of no avail. Ufzul Kh[=a]n +endeavoured to persuade us to remain at Koollum till his father should +arrive, who, he said, had escaped from his prison at Bokhara by the +assistance of the chief of Shere Subz, as I have already noticed, +and was now making his way to the territories of the Meer Walli by +a circuitous route, so as to elude the vigilance of the king, and +frustrate his endeavours to recapture him. We were much pleased to +find that Ufzul Khan had no suspicion of our not being free agents, +and Sturt answered he regretted much that the shortness of the time we +had yet at our disposal would prevent his complying with his request, +which, indeed, considering all the circumstances of the case, it would +have been an act of most culpable folly to have acceded to. At the +conclusion of this interview Sturt presented him with a handsome +rifle, which he received with the utmost gratitude, saying that he was +now poor and had nothing to offer in return but his thanks, which, +however, he hoped we would believe to be sincere. + +No sooner had Meer Ufzul taken his leave than the Meer Walli made his +appearance with the evident intention of ascertaining the results +of our interview, and the part we were disposed to take in any +negociation concerning the Dost. The Meer was apparently anxious to +remain on good terms with both parties, or, in other words, preferred +having two strings to his bow. "Should the Dost claim my protection," +said he, "how would you advise me to act?--He is your enemy, yet I +must not abandon him, or deliver him into the hands of the British; +for, although I do not wish to offend the British Government, I owe my +present power to the influence of the Ameer,--he has always been my +patron, and I must be his friend. And then, moreover, you are the +first British officers I have seen since your army took possession of +Affghanist[=a]n; no notice has been taken of me, the Meer Walli of +Koollum; yet, to the petty chiefs of Bamee[=a]n vakeels and friendly +messages have been sent, with valuable presents--while, to my repeated +letters courting an amicable alliance, not even an answer has been +given.--Is it courteous to treat an inferior so?--Is it the conduct +generally adopted by the first nation in the world? The doubtful way +in which your Government has behaved leaves me uncertain as to how my +conduct will be interpreted,--but, if _you_ will represent that the +Meer Walli wishes to be on terms of amity, I shall consider you as +my best friends. Indeed, I would have it known I wish to remain +as neutral as possible in any political struggle that may take +place."--Here he paused, as if expecting some answer which would be +a guide to him, but, receiving none, he at length continued: "I +will receive the Dost and be kind to him until he recovers from the +fatigues of his journey, and then will beg him to leave Koollum."--It +was obvious enough that a consideration for himself was the only +motive which really influenced our worthy guest, who, it was clear, +would gladly have betrayed his former patron if he could have induced +us to guarantee an adequate reward to himself. Of course we did not +feel authorised to hold out any such prospect, and endeavoured to +convince him of the truth that we were not employed in any political +capacity, and could not possibly interfere without exposing ourselves +to severe animadversions from our superiors. I could not but feel the +truth of the Meer's remarks on our policy in conciliating the petty +chiefs, whilst the friendly overtures of the more powerful were +treated almost with insulting neglect. + +From the expression of the Meer's sentiments during this interview, we +concluded that, however great a rascal his highness might eventually +prove, still his present policy was to be on good terms with us, and +all anxiety on our part as to being forcibly detained was allayed, so +that we began now seriously to determine on our future proceedings. +As one of the principal objects I had in view on joining Sturt was +to procure coins and those relics of antiquity so abundant in the +neighbourhood of Balkh, I was most anxious to prosecute my journey +hither, and accordingly took an opportunity of explaining to the +Meer my wishes and intentions, requesting him to furnish me with an +adequate escort for my protection. He evinced a decided unwillingness +to facilitate my advance, treating my anxiety to collect coins as an +assumed reason to conceal some other more important motive. This was +very provoking, but, by this time, we were so much accustomed to have +the true and simple account of our plans and intentions treated with +civil incredulity, that we felt almost disposed to allow the +frequent insinuations of our concealed political character to remain +uncontradicted--so useless were all our endeavours to satisfy the +natives as to our real position. In vain I urged upon the Meer the +emptiness of all his professions of friendship if he now declined to +assist me in the manner I clearly pointed out; all was of no avail; on +the contrary, the more urgent I became the more obstinate he grew, and +I at last was painfully convinced, not only that he disbelieved me, +but that he had not the slightest intention of permitting us to +proceed across his frontier in the direction of the territories of the +King of Bokh[=a]r[=a]. He objected that it was a long journey from +C[=a]bul to Balkh merely to pick up "rubbish;" and though the actual +danger was only for a short space, yet, if any accident happened, if, +as he declared was highly probable, we were seized and carried into +slavery, he should have to answer to the British Government. His +horsemen too would be an insufficient protection against an attack +from the numerous hordes of thieves who infested the desert, and +would surely be on the alert to pounce upon so valuable a booty. +He continued repeating these arguments till we lost all hope of +persuading him, and not deeming it advisable to risk a rupture of our +present apparently good understanding, we reluctantly submitted and +turned our thoughts homewards.[*] + +[* Note: The anxiety I have here shewn to procure the escort from +the Meer will perhaps appear uncalled for, but those who delight in +numismatological specimens will agree with me that the disappointment +was not trifling, as only a few travellers had succeeded in obtaining +rare coins, and I had every reason to believe other varieties were to +be found.] + + +[Illustration: Coins.] + + + + +No sooner was it rumoured in the bazaar that we were about to return +to Cabul, than several Hindoo bankers waited upon us to pay their +respects and offer whatever sums of money we might require for +the journey. They were all very anxious to lend, and were much +dissatisfied at the insignificant amount of the cash we required, +though the only security was a written promise that we would pay the +amount to a certain banker in Cabul on our return; they offered us +as much as ten thousand rupees, and appeared very anxious to avail +themselves of the opportunity of sending money to Cabul. At all events +their confidence was a gratifying proof of the high estimation in +which the British name was held in that remote country. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + +After a most friendly parting interview with the Meer Walli, when he +presented us with a horse and baggage pony, we started from Koollum on +the 22nd of July, accompanied, by the Meer's special directions, by +one of his confidential servants to act ostensibly as our guide, but +who, probably, had also his secret instructions to report on all such +of our proceedings as might in any way affect the interests of his +master. + +We proposed to diverge from the route by which we had advanced, at +Heibuk, passing through Ghoree, in the territories of the Koondooz +chief, and returning to Badjgh[=a]r by the Dushti Suffaed pass, which +Sturt was very anxious to survey. + +Our first day's march brought us to Hazree Sultan, and the next +morning we reached Heibuk, where we were cordially welcomed by our old +friend Meer Baber Beg, and had again to undergo the infliction of that +detestable compound of grease, flour, salt, and tea, which the Meer in +his hospitality was always pressing us to swallow. + +On our departure the next morning, he sent us a present of a horse; +an indifferent one, 'tis true, but, at least, it marked his kindly +feeling; he warned us not to delay longer than was absolutely +necessary in the country of Meer Moorad Beg, whom he described in no +very flattering terms; and he, moreover, cautioned us against the +Koondooz fever, which he declared would inevitably attack us if we +were not very careful in selecting our encamping ground at a distance +from the pestilential marshes which skirted the bases of the hills. We +thanked him for his friendly advice, and started for Rhob[=a]t, where +we arrived after a dismal ride of twenty-two miles. The country +through which we travelled was perhaps the most dreary portion of +Toorkisth[=a]n; for about twelve miles we traversed a dry low grass +jungle of about a foot in height, tenanted by a species of wild goat, +several of which we disturbed on our passage through their haunts, but +not being prepared for any sport, I did not take advantage of their +unwariness. + +The road was utterly devoid of water for a space of full sixteen +miles, at the end of which we came upon a scanty supply, scarce +sufficient for our immediate necessities and utterly inadequate for a +force of any magnitude. The pista tree, the fruit of which is carried +to the Indian market, was seen here in considerable quantities; it is +very similar in its growth and foliage to the Dauk of Hindoostan. + +The _assa foetida_ shrub also abounded on the neighbouring hills, and +we were almost overpowered by the horrible stench exhaled therefrom. +It is collected in its wild state and sent to C[=a]bul and India, +yielding a good profit to those who pick it, as it is used very +generally throughout the East for kabobs and curries. We also +observed, that day, several coveys of chikore. + +At Rhobat is an old caravanserai for travellers, the remains of a very +fine and extensive building, with accommodation and apartments all +round the square of about twenty-four yards. It is said to have been +constructed in the time of the famous Abdoollah Khan, and was reduced +to its present desolate state by Meer Moorad Beg, the chief of +Koondooz, who some years ago ravaged the whole of this district, +burning and laying waste whatever he could not carry off. + +On the 25th of July we marched to Ghoree, a distance of about 21 +miles. As we approached it, we enjoyed a fine prospect of the +extensive savannahs of grass so characteristic of Toorkisth[=a]n; many +horses were feeding in the distance, and the vale, flanked by low +hills, was bounded only by the horizon. We were told that it extended +in a right line upwards of thirty miles, and that it was frequently +used for horse-racing, the customary length of the course being +upwards of twenty miles. We were now in the territories of Meer Moorad +Beg, a chief of notorious character, but, trusting to the continuance +of the good fortune which had hitherto attended us, we did not make +ourselves uncomfortable about him. We could not much admire his town +of Ghoree, which, with his fort, was situate on the edge of a morass +extending from the limits of the savannah to the foot of the hills--I +should think that the fever so prevalent in these districts must be in +a great degree attributable to the absolute want of drainage and the +decomposition of vegetable matter. Its position was most insalubrious, +for the marshy swamps commenced at the very base of hills, and thus as +it were encircled the savannahs with a belt of miasma. + +The ague, which is usually accompanied by fever, is of a kind very +difficult to shake off, gradually weakening the sufferer till he sinks +under its influence; the natives themselves are by no means free from +its strokes, to which attacks every stranger who remains for many days +in the vicinity of the marshes is liable. Though a veil of mystery +still covers the particulars of poor Moorcroft's fate, it seems more +than probable that he fell a victim to the fever of this country, +though the seed that was sown did not mature till some time after he +had quitted it. + +The fort of Ghoree has great strength, being on a level with the +adjacent country and surrounded by a wet ditch thirty feet wide and +very deep; its stagnant water teemed with fish of a large size, but +I had no opportunity of ascertaining their species. There was a rude +drawbridge across the moat, and the dwellings around the fort were +temporary hovels composed of straw; so suspicious were the occupants +of our intentions that they would not allow us access to the interior +of the fort. While reposing at the door of my tent on the evening of +our arrival at Ghoree, I was accosted by an old man, with the usual +request for a little medicine, as one of his family was afflicted with +rheumatism; I gave from our now much reduced medicine chest what I +thought at least could do no harm, and endeavoured, as was my custom, +to engage the old gentleman in conversation. I have before mentioned +the propensity of these people for _story-telling_, and I much fear +that when, with their native acuteness in discriminating character, +they detect an anxiety on the part of the questioner for old stories, +no difficulty exists in the concoction of one for him. In the case now +alluded to, I beg to assure my readers that I do not in the slightest +degree pledge myself for the veracity of the story which the old man +related to me. I should not like even to say that the customs to which +he alluded were really "_bonâ fide"_ the customs of his country; +however, I give it as it was related, nothing doubting that it will be +received with due caution, and, at all events, though it may not be +received as a legend really characteristic of Toorkisth[=a]n weddings, +it has indisputable claims to illustrate the habits of Toorkisth[=a]n +_story-tellers_. + +I was remarking to him on the beauty and extent of his savannahs, and, +in assenting to what I said, he observed that they were frequently +the theatre of wedding races; having soon engaged my attention, he +proceeded to narrate the following story, founded perhaps on the +numerous outrages of which the despised Huzareh tribe were the +victims. + +"Far up in one of the numerous valleys of the Yakkoollung country," he +commenced, "resided an ancient couple, whose occupation throughout the +summer day consisted in storing food for the winter season, and who, +when their work was finished, continued mournfully to dwell on the +all-absorbing subject of the forcible abduction of their daughter by +one of the Uzbeg chiefs. + +"Two years and more had now passed since the outrage was perpetrated +by a party of Uzbeg horsemen, who, ever bent on plunder and bloodshed, +made an incursion into the valley, visiting the different forts at +the time when the male inhabitants were employed in the labour of +cultivation, and seizing numerous youths and maidens. On the occasion +alluded to, among the number of victims was the only daughter of the +aged Huzareh peasants, who was considered amongst her tribe as a +perfect Peri--'A maid with a face like the moon, scented like musk, +a ravisher of hearts, delighting the soul, seducing the senses, and +beautiful as the full moon,' She was placed for security behind one of +the best mounted of the robbers, whilst the other helpless wretches +were driven unresistingly before the horsemen like a flock of sheep, +till the abductors reached their own independent territory. + +"Before the close of that ill-fated day, the mothers and relations +of the stolen were rushing in frantic despair through the fields, +announcing to the husbands and fathers the misfortune which had +overtaken them. + +"The men immediately quitted their work, and armed only with their +implements of labour pursued the ravishers for many a mile; but +what could they do on foot against so many horsemen? Perhaps it was +fortunate for them that they could not overtake the robbers, for they +would only have become additional victims. They returned home to +bewail their unhappy fate and curse the cruel authors of their misery. + +"It happened about a year afterwards that the old man's son returned +from Candah[=a]r, to enjoy, as he anticipated, a few weeks' happiness +with his aged parents and blooming sister; but no sooner had he +crossed the threshhold and received the blessing of his trembling +parents, than he was made aware of the desolation that had passed over +his house. Vowing vengance on the perpetrators of this foul act, and +calling down the anger of heaven on all the generation of Uzbegs, the +brave Azeem left his home, and abandoning all hopes of repose, busied +himself in collecting a band of athletic and desperate young men, who +swore on the Kor[=a]n their determination to have revenge or perish +in the attempt. Young Azeem was unanimously chosen commander of +the party, and the next morning at break of day, without further +preparation beyond taking a small supply of food, they started on +their journey. Travelling long days, and resting short nights in the +crevices of the mountains, after eighteen days' toil, they at length +reached a part of Tartary, distant only two days' march from the fort +belonging to the robber Uzbegs who had so cruelly injured them. It now +became necessary to advance with more circumspection, as they could no +longer depend upon the peasants for protection in the less friendly +country they had reached, so separating into several small parties +they approached stealthily the Uzbeg fort; some kept the hills on +either side, while the rest followed the winding of the grassy plains. +Thus proceeding, they formed a kind of circle round the fort, so that +they could notice the ingress or departure of its tenants on every +side. The fort appeared too strong for an open attack, and when, at +night, the leaders of the detached parties assembled to discuss their +future plans and to report what they had seen during the day, it was +determined to lie in ambush another day for the chance of the main +body of the Uzbegs quitting their fort on some foray, so that they +would have a better chance, should it become necessary to attack it. +Providence seemed to favour their designs, for early next morning +considerable parties of Uzbegs were seen issuing from the fort and +proceeding towards a large savannah, where some festival was evidently +in preparation--for, from the quantity of women and children who +accompanied the horsemen, it was clear that fighting was not the +business of the day. + +"Anxiously did Azeem and his followers watch the movements of their +unsuspecting enemy, and soon, from the nature of the preparations +going forward, they discovered that a wedding race was about to take +place. It was instantly determined to allow the ceremony to proceed, +and the capture of the bride was to be the signal for all the Huzarehs +to rush in and carry out their object. + +"And now the suitors of the maiden, nine in number, appear in the +field, all unarmed, but mounted on the best horses they can procure; +while the bride herself, on a beautiful Turkoman stallion, surrounded +by her relations, anxiously surveys the group of lovers. The +conditions of the bridal race were these:--The maiden has a certain +start given, which she avails herself of to gain a sufficient distance +from the crowd to enable her to manage her steed with freedom, so as +to assist in his pursuit the suitor whom she prefers. On a signal from +the father all the horsemen gallop after the fair one, and whichever +first succeeds in encircling her waist with his arm, no matter whether +disagreeable or to her choice, is entitled to claim her as his wife. +After the usual delays incident upon such interesting occasions, the +maiden quits the circle of her relations, and putting her steed into +a hand gallop, darts into the open plain. When satisfied with her +position, she turns round to the impatient youths, and stretches out +her arms towards them, as if to woo their approach. This is the moment +for giving the signal to commence the chace, and each of the impatient +youths, dashing his pointed heels into his courser's sides, darts like +the unhooded hawk in pursuit of the fugitive dove. The savannah was +extensive, full twelve miles long and three in width, and as the +horsemen sped across the plain the favoured lover became soon apparent +by the efforts of the maiden to avoid all others who might approach +her. + +"At length, after nearly two hours' racing, the number of pursuers is +reduced to four, who are all together, and gradually gaining on the +pursued; with them is the favourite, but alas! his horse suddenly +fails in his speed, and as she anxiously turns her head she perceives +with dismay the hapless position of her lover; each of the more +fortunate leaders, eager with anticipated triumph, bending his head on +his horse's mane, shouts at the top of his voice, "I come, my Peri; +I'm your lover." But she, making a sudden turn, and lashing her horse +almost to fury, darts across their path, and makes for that part of +the chummun, _plain_, where her lover was vainly endeavouring to goad +on his weary steed. + +"The three others instantly check their career, but in the hurry to +turn back two of the horses are dashed furiously against each other, +so that both steeds and riders roll over on the plain. The maiden +laughed, for she well knew she could elude the single horseman, and +flew to the point where her lover was. But her only pursuer was rarely +mounted and not so easily shaken off; making a last and desperate +effort he dashed alongside the maiden, and, stretching out his arm, +almost won the unwilling prize; but she, bending her head to her +horse's neck, eluded his grasp and wheeled off again. Ere the +discomfited horseman could again approach her her lover's arm was +around her waist, and amidst the shouts of the spectators they turned +towards the fort. + +"Alas! this was the agreed signal amongst the Huzarehs, who, screened +by the undulations of the savannah or hidden in the watercourses, had +been anxiously awaiting the event. With a simultaneous shout they +rush in upon the unprepared multitude, and commence an indiscriminate +massacre; but short was their success, for a distant party of Uzbegs +were observed rapidly gallopping to the scene of action, and the +Huzarehs were compelled to retire, their spirit for vengeance yet +unslaked. The panic their sudden onslaught had caused was so great +that they might all have retired unmolested had not Azeem suddenly +recognized his sister amongst a group of females who were being +hurried towards the fort. Regardless of the almost certain death that +awaited him he rushed to embrace her, but hardly had he clasped her in +his arms when the chief of the harem drove his Persian dagger through +his back. At sight of this all thoughts of further revenge were +abandoned, and the Huzarehs hastily quitting the field made the best +of their way home, not without having, though at the expense of the +life of their leader, inflicted a severe punishment on the invaders of +their peaceful country,"[*] + +[* Note: Clark, in his Travels in Russia and Tartary, describes the +ceremony of marriage among the Calmucks as performed on horseback. + +"The girl is first mounted and rides off at full speed. Her lover +pursues, and if he overtakes her she becomes his wife, and the +marriage is consummated on the spot; after which she returns with him +to his tent. But it sometimes happens that the woman does not wish to +marry the person by whom she is pursued, in which case she will not +suffer him to overtake her; and we were assured that no instance +occurs of a Calmuck girl being caught, unless she has a partiality for +her pursuer. If she dislikes him she rides, to use the language of +an English sportsman, 'neck or nothing,' until she has completely +escaped, or until the pursuer's horse is tired out, leaving her at +liberty to return, and to be afterwards chased by some more favourite +admirer."] + + + +Such was the old man's tale; whether the offspring of his fertile +imagination, or actually founded upon fact, so plausible did it +appear, and so much interested was I in his narration, that it became +forcibly imprinted on my memory, and I have minutely followed him in +its details. + +The morning after our arrival at Ghoree several of our followers were +taken ill, and as all were in great dread of the Koondooz fever, a +considerable alarm prevailed in our small camp. We did not at first +think much of the sickness, which we attributed to too free an +indulgence in the Koondooz melon, which is of a very large size, and +equal in flavour to those of Cabul. We therefore determined to remain +a day or two at Ghoree, in the hopes of a favourable change taking +place. But on the third day it was evident that the Koondooz fever had +really made its appearance, and several of the guard and servants, +to the number of twenty and upwards, were so much weakened as to be +unable to proceed. In this dilemma we deemed it advisable not to +remain any longer in the vicinity of the marshes, and resolved to +proceed with such of our men as were still healthy, to survey the +Dushti Suffaed Pass, already alluded to. We determined on leaving the +sick and the greater portion of our baggage behind, and despatched a +letter to Meer Moorad Beg, requesting permission for them to remain at +Ghoree till our return, which we hoped would not be delayed beyond a +few days. The ruler of Koondooz civilly acceded to our request, and +sent us many friendly messages, but hardly sufficient to dispel our +uneasiness at leaving even for so short a time such temptation for the +gratification of his predatory propensities; but we had the choice of +two evils--our time was so short that if we all remained together at +Ghoree, not only might the ravages of the fever become more serious, +but the opportunity would be lost of examining the pass. Before +leaving Ghoree we received a message from the governor of the fort, +apologizing for his inability to visit us, with the excuse that there +being much treachery and ill will in the neighbourhood, he dare not +quit his post, lest he fall under the dreaded displeasure of Meer +Moorad Beg. + +We now dismissed, with a dress of honour and letter of thanks, the +_confidential_ man whom the Meer Walli of Koollum had ordered to +accompany us, and leaving the greater part of our medicine chest for +the use of the sick, we started on the 28th of August. Before our +departure we received a further proof of the friendly disposition of +Moorad Beg, in the shape of a beautiful Toorkm[=a]n saddle, not larger +than an English racing one; the flaps were richly embroidered, and the +steel pommel was inlaid with inscription in gold of sentences from the +Kor[=a]n. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +We were now about to explore a part of Toorkisth[=a]n which I have +reason to believe had never been visited by Europeans; the distance +between Ghoree and Badjgh[=]ar is about eighty miles, across as wild +and romantic a country as can well be conceived, consisting of a +succession of difficult and in some places perilous defiles; the last +of these was the famous Dushti Suffaed, which leads to Badjgh[=a]r. +There is a sameness in the features of these Toorkisth[=a]n passes +which renders a faithful description tedious, from its monotony and +the necessary repetition of similar characteristic features; yet the +reader will hardly fail to draw important conclusions from the immense +difficulty and almost practical impossibility that a modern army +of considerable numbers, with all its incumbrances, through such a +country, with any hope of its retaining its efficiency or even a +tithe of its original numerical strength, will encounter. And when we +consider that the passes of Toorkisth[=a]n embrace only a small part +of the distance to be traversed by an army from the west, we may +well dismiss from our minds that ridiculous impression, once so +unfortunately prevalent in India, that is now justly denominated +_Russophobia_. What a fearful amount of human suffering might have +been averted! what national disgrace might have been avoided! and what +millions of treasure saved, had the authorities in India but examined +the practicability of an invasion which Russia had too much wisdom +ever seriously to contemplate! + +But to return to our wanderings. As I said before, we left Ghoree +early in the morning of the 28th, and soon reached the foot of the +hills, ascending a narrow valley which gradually contracted into a +rocky ravine. As we traversed the higher levels all vegetation ceased, +excepting the Pista tree already alluded to; yet there must have been +some herbage in the gullies, as we saw several flocks of wild goats, +so wild indeed that it was impossible to get within rifle range +of them. We had heard of a place called Shull[=a]ctoo, within the +distance of a day's march, and conceiving naturally that it was a +habitation of men, we determined to pass the night there. As the +evening advanced, the aspect of the country assumed a still wilder +and more desolate character, our cattle began to show symptoms of +distress, and as the hills were apparently destitute of water, we +became a little uneasy regarding the nature of our billet. A sudden +turn of the ravine brought us to a small open space, without a blade +of grass or a vestige of any thing human, which our guide complacently +informed us was Shull[=a]ctoo, a mere "locus standi." After the first +feeling of dismay had subsided, we recollected that we had a small +supply of food for our horses; and water being now found for the first +time since we entered the hills,--and we had come a good sixteen +miles,--we determined not to proceed further, so pitching our little +tent we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would admit. + +On the 29th we marched, a distance of fourteen miles, to a small fort +called Keune. But I unfortunately commenced the day's work by losing +my way amongst the rocks, with some of the guard: after wandering +for some hours, surrounded by scenery the grandeur of which I should +better have appreciated under different circumstances, one of the +Affgh[=a]n soldiers hit upon a pathway, and seeing a man in the +distance, he made for, and, seizing him in the most unceremonious +manner, brought him to me. The poor fellow was in the greatest state +of alarm; he had evidently never seen a Feringhi before, and fancied +that his last hour had arrived. I put a rupee into his hand, and +endeavoured to make him understand that we were neither robbers nor +murderers, but travellers who had lost their way; he was naturally +incredulous, for certainly our appearance gave but small indication of +our respectable character.[*] At length we were obliged to intimate +that his fears might be realized unless he showed us the way to Keune, +which we eventually reached in the evening, much exhausted with our +excursion. + +[* Note: I was armed with a huge old-fashioned sword of the 11th +dragoons, purchased in the Cabul bazaar, (marked D-XI Dr.) and clad in +a green Swiss frock. I had a coloured turban wound in copious folds +round my head as a protection from the sun, beard of nearly three +months' growth, and accompanied by a ferocious-looking tribe of +Affghans, all unshorn as well as myself, created anything but +a prepossessing impression to a stranger. The reader will not, +therefore, feel surprised at the man's hesitation in meeting us.] + +The chief of the fort at first declined furnishing us with any +supplies, though we offered liberal payment, declaring that he had +only sufficient for his own consumption; he, however, relented, and +sent us enough for our immediate wants. He afterwards came himself, +and informed us that we had acted very unwisely in mentioning at +Ghoree the route we proposed to follow, as one of the Sheikkallee +Huzareh chiefs, who was in a state of rebellion, had passed through +Keune the day before, and had stated that a party of Feringhis were +about to pass through his country with a quantity of odd looking boxes +filled with money, (alluding, I suppose, to the theodolite, &c.) +and that he would with his whole tribe waylay and rob us. This was +pleasant news, but we took the hint and determined to be on our guard. +In return for this piece of information, the inhabitants of Keune +expressed a desire to see the _Feringhis feed_; rather a novel +request, but one which we easily gratified by striking the walls of +the tent while we eat our dinner. The natives squatted down in a +circle outside the tent pins, and watched every morsel we put into our +mouths with the utmost interest and with many exclamations of surprise +and astonishment; and when before retiring for the night we as usual +had a skinful of water poured over us, their wonder knew no bounds; +they were evidently but slightly acquainted with the use of water as +applied for the purposes of cleanliness. + +We left Keune at daybreak on the 30th, hoping to be able to make our +way to Badjgh[=a]r, distant about forty-five miles, by surmounting the +Keune pass and proceeding down the Surruk Kulla valley. The ascent +was long and steep, the distance we had to travel before reaching the +summit being above thirteen miles; and though we had been on the move +nearly all day, such were the difficulties of the pass that night +overtook us shortly after we had reached its crest. + +Not a sign of habitations or trace of cultivation was visible; we had +no corn for our cattle, but fortunately the more sheltered spots in +the vicinity of water were clothed with luxuriant grass, which the +horses greedily eat. Our followers had, with the improvidence of +Asiatics, brought but a scanty supply of food, and indeed we were +all to blame for having trusted too much to the wild mountains +for supplies. There were plenty of chikore, however, and as I had +succeeded in shooting two or three in the morning we were not entirely +without food; and having pitched our tent, we retired to rest in the +hope that the next day we should come upon some fort where we might +recruit. + +As we were preparing to start early on the morning of the 31st, we met +a traveller pursuing his solitary way to Keune, who, after expressing +his wonder at encountering a party of Feringhis in such a place, +inquired our proposed route. We informed him that our intention was to +proceed over the Surruk Kulla pass and make our way to Badjghar, but +he cautioned us not to attempt any such thing; for though the road +was better than the more direct one, called the Espion Pass, it was +infested by a robber tribe from whose hands he had himself only +escaped, not having any thing to lose. + +This unwelcome intelligence induced Sturt to change his plan, and we +agreed that having done our utmost to fulfil the wishes of government +in ascertaining the nature of the passes in the vicinity of Badjghar, +it was our duty to consult the safety of ourselves and followers, and +get them as soon as possible within reach of protection. We had no +food of any kind left, but after all we did not anticipate much +serious evil from a forced fast of forty-eight hours; so, after +rewarding our wanderer for his very seasonable warning, we struck off +to cross the Espion Pass. The event proved how imminent had been our +danger, for after reaching Badjghar we were made aware that a large +body of horsemen had assembled in the Surruk Kullah valley for the +purpose of attacking us--that they had come up the road to meet us, +and had actually reached the point where we turned off about two hours +after us. + +We travelled the whole of the 31st August across a succession of +broken passes; so complicated were the valleys and so broken were +the range of hills, that we were unable to tell when we reached the +back-bone of the ridge, and we struggled on in doubt and difficulty +till we were again overtaken by the shades of night. + +Our cattle were quite exhausted; our followers grumbling, dispirited, +and frightened, the prospect of a second bivouac by no means improving +their discipline and insubordination. + +While I was endeavouring to pacify them by the only argument I had +at my disposal, founded on the principle of "_levius fit patientiâ +quidquid corrigere est nefas_," one of our servants brought us the +joyful news that from an eminence adjacent he had discovered an +abatta, or clump of blanket tents, surrounded by cultivated land, +about a mile off. Where tents were, food would probably be obtainable; +and as we were not in a condition to be very particular as to the +character of the inhabitants, we immediately despatched an embassy +with money to purchase whatever edible substances they could procure. +Our anxieties were now relieved by the return of our mission, driving +before them a couple of very thin sheep, and carrying a small supply +of corn for the cattle. With this reasonable supply we made a +tolerable meal, and succeeded in putting the discontented into a +better frame of mind. + +We determined to make a push next morning for Badjghar, and started +before day-break for the Dushti Suffäed Pass, the crest of which we +reached after travelling a distance of about nine miles over very bad +ground. We were now "_en pays de connoissance_," but our cattle were +so much weakened by the work and privations of the last three or four +days, that we could not attempt the long and difficult descent into +the valley beneath. I therefore rode on alone and reached Badjghar in +a few hours. I immediately visited Capt. Hay, and having procured a +supply of food, returned with it the same night to the party, much +exhausted with my trip, but satisfied now that there could be no +further cause for grumbling on the part of our followers. + +The state of our baggage-equipage next morning was so bad, that Sturt +thought it advisable to give them another day's rest, and he went +on himself to Badjghar; but in the course of the day I received an +express from him, stating that circumstances had occurred which made +it absolutely necessary for me to bring in the whole party without +delay. I knew Sturt too well to doubt the urgency he represented, and +in spite of lame legs, sore backs, &c. I managed to bring all hands +safe into Badjghar late on the evening of the 2d of August. Our men +were taken every care of, (which indeed they required, as fever and +ague had weakened them much,) and in a few days all traces of their +sufferings had disappeared; but poor Sturt, who had been complaining +for some days before of great debility and headache, was seized on the +morning of the 3d with a violent attack of Koondooz fever, which soon +prostrated his strength and caused me some uneasiness. He weathered +the storm, however, and by the 11th was sufficiently recovered to +enable him to resume his duties. + +I have before mentioned, I think, that we had left some of our +followers and a considerable portion of our baggage at Ghoree, +intending to return to that fort after visiting the passes which I +have alluded to; but on our reaching Badjghar we found that the clouds +which had been gathering for some time past in the political horizon +had assumed so threatening an appearance that it would be madness to +attempt to prosecute our examination of the nature of the country, +when its wild and lawless population were in such an excited state. +The intentions of the Koondooz ruler were not known, and we felt very +anxious for the safety of the sick whom we had been necessitated +to leave at Ghoree, as in addition to his natural sympathy for a +fellow-creature's sufferings, Sturt feared that if any misfortune +befel them, he might, though unjustly, be accused of having deserted +them. His uneasiness was increased by receipt of a letter from Ghoree +from one of our people, in which it was stated that the baggage we had +left behind had been opened and some things abstracted, and that they +themselves were in imminent danger of being seized and sold as slaves. + +After making every allowance for the exaggerations of fear, there +was still sufficient in this communication to aggravate poor Sturt's +difficulties; he was in doubt whether to assume a high tone, or to +endeavour by flattery to save his followers, and his last act before +the violence of the fever obliged him to succumb was a firm but +respectful letter which he wrote to Meer Moor[=a]d Beg, in which he +stated that reports inconsistent with that chief's known good faith +had reached him; that he had heard that his property had been seized +and his people threatened; that he was sure they were lies invented by +Moor[=a]d Beg's enemies to create a bad feeling towards him; and that +he requested the men and property might be immediately forwarded safe +to Cabul. Those who are familiar with the vanity and punctiliousness +on points of etiquette of the chieftains of the Hindoo Khoosh will +easily conceive how much depended upon the wording of this letter. + +In the written intercourse between equals it is customary to put the +impression of the signet at the top of the sheet, but from an inferior +such an act would be considered as highly presumptuous. Sturt, though +advised to assume the humble tone, was resolute in putting his seal at +the beginning of the letter, and the event proved that his judgment +was as usual correct, for though (it was stated) the chief of Koondooz +was but a few months after in arms against the British, yet our people +and property were safely forwarded to us at Cabul. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +It was only after my arrival at Badjghar with the men that I became +acquainted with Sturt's reasons for requesting me to come in without +delay, Capt Hay was in daily expectation of the arrival of a convoy +from Bamee[=a]n with a supply of provisions, clothing, and ammunition +for the use of his regiment, and having received information from one +of the numerous spies, who gain a livelihood by supplying information +to _both_ parties, that large bodies of men were assembling in +the Kammurd valley, through which the convoy would have to pass, +determined, though he did not attach much credit to his informant, to +despatch as strong a body as he could spare to reinforce the escort. +He accordingly sent out two companies of the Goorkha regiment with +directions to proceed to the "Dundun Shikkun Kotul," there to meet the +convoy and protect them in their passage through the Kammurd valley. +Such was the scarcity of European officers, that Capt. Hay was obliged +to intrust the command of the force to the quarter-master-serjeant of +his corps; who, though unused to the management of so considerable a +party in the field, and who might have been excused if in the hour of +need his brain had not been as fertile of expedients as is generally +necessary in encounters of this kind, acquitted himself in a manner +that would have done credit to the best light infantry officer in the +service. I much regret that I cannot record his name, but before being +appointed to the Goorkha corps he was a non-commissioned officer in +the Bengal European regiment. He was one of the many victims, I fear, +of the year 1841, as I have been unable to trace his career. Hundreds +of brave European non-commissioned officers met a similar fate, and +are merely noticed as having perished in the retreat from Cabul. The +many acts of coldblooded treachery which disgraced the Affghans, and +which ought to have opened the eyes of those in power to the absurdity +in trusting to their faith, were merged in the wholesale murders of +Khoord Cabul, Jugdulluk, and Gundummuk. + +I have before described the narrowness of the valley up to Kammurd and +the lofty ranges of precipitous hills by which it is flanked; and the +reader will perhaps recollect my noticing two forts on either side of +the river a little above Piedb[=a]gh. It was here that the Serjeant +halted his party after the first day's march, intending to proceed +the next morning to the Dundun Shikkun pass to meet the convoy. At +day-light he was informed that the expected convoy had not crossed the +pass, and while forming his men to proceed and ascertain whether the +report was correct or otherwise, he was suddenly attacked by large +bodies of horse and foot: the serjeant immediately took advantage of +the ground to protect his party from the heavy fire which was poured +in from all sides, and having observed that the enemy, whoever they +were, were in too great a force to leave him a chance of successfully +maintaining his position, which was commanded from several points, he +determined on retreating to Badjghar, a distance of about nine miles. +The valley was full of orchards divided by low walls, and perhaps to +a well-disciplined company of steady old soldiers with plenty of +officers, a retreat, even in the face of several hundred Uzbegs, might +have been effected without loss, by forming the whole body into two +lines of skirmishers, and retiring alternately; but the serjeant knew +too well the temper of his gallant little mountaineers, who are more +famous for bravery than judgment, to trust the safety of his party to +the success of a manoeuvre, the chief point in which was to know when +to retreat. His first line of skirmishers would never have retired in +order, taking advantage of every natural obstacle of the ground for +concealment, but would have boldly confronted the cavalry and probably +been destroyed to a man. He therefore moved his Goorkhas in quarter +distance column steadily along the road, which luckily hugged the +precipitous hills on one side, so that the enemy could only avail +themselves of the valley on the other side of the road to attack him, +the mountains being so impracticable that while they attempted to +climb them to turn his flank he had already gained so much ground as +to be out of reach of even a "plunging" fire. In ordinary quick time +did this little band retire under a heavy though straggling fire from +a force many times more numerous than themselves. The serjeant was +enabled with difficulty to carry out his plan, which was, not to +return the enemy's fire, but to proceed steadily on till he could +suddenly take advantage of some protecting ledge of rock or orchard +wall behind which he could form his men and confuse the enemy by +pouring in a few volleys. He would then form quarter distance columns +of subdivisions again, and proceed in his retreat as before. He had no +misgivings as to the courage and firmness of his men, for the Goorkhas +have ever been noted for their dashing bravery, and an incident soon +proved how wisely he had judged in not extending his men. While +retiring, a chance shot killed a man who happened to be a great +favourite; his nearest comrades immediately halted and faced about, +and notwithstanding the commands and entreaties of the serjeant; they +determined to avenge his death. Grouping themselves round the body of +their dead companion, they awaited the enemy, and when sure that every +shot would tell, each man delivered his fire, and then drawing his +knife with a yell of defiance, rushed upon hundreds of their foes; +to have supported them would have been to lead the whole party to +inevitable slaughter, and the authority of the quarter-master-serjeant +was scarce sufficient to restrain his men from breaking from their +cover to join the unequal fight: as it was, the gallant little band +were soon outnumbered, and after a reckless and desperate resistance +were literally hacked to pieces. The enemy encouraged by this success +now pressed hard upon the Goorkhas, and had they been fortunate enough +in getting round to the front not a man would have escaped; as it was, +the men were falling very fast, when a happy occurrence changed +the aspect of affairs. It seems that a chief, conspicuous from his +glittering armour and steel head-piece, mounted on a powerful horse +with an armed footman behind him, attracted the notice of the Goorkhas +by the cool manner in which he rode up to within a distance of about +eighty yards, delivered his fire, then galloped away out of gunshot +to allow the gentleman "en croupe" to reload. A few of the men having +observed this manoeuvre repeated three or four times, concealed +themselves behind a rock, while the main body retired. On came the +chief to within his prescribed distance; a volley from behind the rock +scarce ten paces off rolled horse and man over and over. The effect on +the enemy was such that they kept at a more respectful distance, +and after a few random shots discontinued the pursuit. Such was the +account the serjeant himself gave me of the fight, and I have no +reason to suspect him of exaggeration. He accomplished his arduous +retreat with a loss of nineteen men killed, but more than half this +number voluntarily sacrificed themselves to avenge the death of their +comrade. It is difficult, when relating the numerous acts of heroism +of the Goorkha troops, to refrain from drawing invidious comparisons +between their conduct and that of the Hindoo soldier during the +retreat from Cabul; but though it must be allowed that the despondency +and mental enervation which sometimes spreads like an epidemic +among Sepoy troops, must importantly deteriorate from their general +character as soldiers, still it must be recollected that the physical +constitution of the Hindoo incapacitates him from action under some +circumstances. Severe cold benumbs his faculties of mind as well as +body, and the nature of his ordinary food is such that unless the +supply is regular and sufficient his strength fails him; and again, +his belief in predestination is strong, and often a trivial reverse +will induce him to abandon himself to his fate. But in these days the +Hindoo soldier need not fear that his noble and gallant qualities will +not be understood or appreciated. Every good soldier will honor the +Hindoo for his patient endurance, his courage, and fidelity. + +To turn to the convoy: the attempt was made to get the camels laden +with ammunition, stores, and provisions over the Dundun Shikkun Pass; +but the difficulties were found to be so great that the escort and +convoy returned to Sygh[=a]n, and crossing the Nulli Fursh Kotul, +reached their destination. + +This was the first glaring instance of the state of the country, and +some people may well be astonished it was viewed by the political +authorities in so insignificant a light. But I will not too much +impose upon the patience of the reader by detailing the execrable +reasons which were put forth for the most absurd measures during the +twelve months preceding the annihilation of our army. + +It was now evident to those who were not obstinately blind that a +general rising was contemplated; and a few days after our arrival at +Badjghar we heard that Dost Mahommed had arrived at Koollum, and that +after all his diplomacy our old friend the Meer Walli had received him +with open arms, and was now on his way to attack our out-posts. The +authorities were shortly afterwards aroused from their apathy, the +advanced troops were very properly withdrawn, the gallant Col. Dennie +was sent in command of a small but efficient force to the head of the +Bamee[=a]n valley, where, as has been before detailed, he repulsed the +combined forces of Dost Mahommed Khan, the Meer Walli of Koollum, and +all the Uzbeg chiefs. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + +On the 12th of August we departed from Badjghar on our return to +C[=a]bul, and I reached Bamee[=a]n by a forced march in two days, +preceding Sturt, who was still very weak and obliged to travel more +leisurely. I was very nearly suffering from my anxiety to get on, for +one of the laden Yabboos, being urged beyond what he considered his +lawful rate of progress, lashed out most furiously with both hind +legs; luckily, the flap of my saddle received the full force of one +of his heels, and the soft part of my leg the other, which lamed me +severely for a time. + +On the 22nd, Sturt having arrived, we made up our party to visit +the ruins of the Castle of Zohawk, distant about ten miles from +Bamee[=a]n. I was rewarded for my trouble, both from the picturesque +nature of the ruins themselves, and because I was fortunate enough +again to fall in with one of those professional story-tellers from +whom I have already largely quoted. I have indeed listened to many +more stories than I have ventured here to insert; some I have rejected +from the nature of their details, others from there being a strong +impression on my mind that they were the extempore invention of the +story-teller with a view to the rupee, which he feared he would not +secure if he confessed he had nothing to relate. I have not perhaps +been judicious in my selection of those which I hoped would amuse the +reader, but I have done my best to choose for insertion those which +differed the most from each other; and I may be allowed to add as an +excuse for my apparent credulity regarding the tales themselves, that +they are implicitly believed by the inhabitants, so that, making +allowance for the corruption of tradition, the facts on which they are +founded in all probability did really occur. + +The ruins of the Castle of Zohawk are situated on a hill commanding +the high road from Toorkisthan over the Ir[=a]k and Kalloo passes, and +in the angle formed by the union of the Bamee[=a]n and Ir[=a]k rivers. +It is impossible to fix the date of the first structure; it seems from +the ruin to have been added to at many successive epochs. The size of +the towers appeared very insignificant compared with the extent of +ground which the building at one time evidently covered, but perhaps +the towers, though small, were numerous. The only one now standing was +situated high up the hill, from which a covered passage partly cut +through the solid rock leads down to the water side. We had some +trouble in gaining the highest point of the ruins, as we were obliged +to scramble up the steep face of the precipice, still covered with the +remains of walls and bastions, which had been built up wherever the +ground was sufficiently level for a foundation. Many dreary-looking +cells attracted our notice amongst the ruins, and all the information +I could get was, that they were the abode of evil spirits. My +informant would, I do believe, have amused me for hours with legends +of the said spirits, and indeed every river and lake, every mountain +and valley in this district bears its peculiar legend, always +improbable, generally absurd, and though from that very cause +diverting for the moment, I fear that the naïve taste amongst our +"savans" which delighted in the history of Jack the Giant-killer being +fast on the wane, they would not be gratified by a lengthy recital; +but I must still take the liberty of repeating as well as I could +follow the vile jargon of my narrator, a tale which he told me of the +Castle of Zohawk while standing on its ruins. He had evidently been +accustomed to tell the same story to others, or else I imagine that, +in consideration of our both being on the spot, he would have spared a +description of what I saw before my eyes. I give it to the reader as +nearly as I can in the narrator's words. + +"At the extreme end of a precipitous hill jutting out from the main +range of mountains at the junction of the Bamee[=a]n and Ir[=a]k +rivers, are the remains of an old castle called Zohawk, after a noted +freebooter, who, secure in the strength of his fortress, was the +terror of the surrounding villages, and lived by rapine, pillage, and +plunder of every kind. To a careless observer the diminutive tower, +which alone remains standing, would not convey an adequate idea of the +original extent of the castle; but on a close examination the whole +face of the mountain will be found to be covered with ruined walls +and roofless chambers, now the fit abodes of devils of all sorts and +denominations. Many hundreds of years ago, before the invasion of +Nadir Shah, Zohawk Khan occupied the castle; he did not build it, but +as it acquired an infamous notoriety during his life-time, and has not +been inhabited since, it still bears the name of the ferocious robber, +who with a band as vicious as himself lived there for many years. +Zohawk Khan was originally an Huzareh peasant; he was seized while +a child and carried off in slavery to Toorkisth[=a]n, where +his naturally cruel and savage disposition was exasperated by +ill-treatment and fostered by the scenes of wickedness with which he +was made familiar. Being very cunning, he soon acquired influence +amongst his fellow slaves, and organized a conspiracy, in the +fulfilment of which his own master and many other Toorkomaun chiefs +were put to death under every refinement of torture. Zohawk at the +head of the rebel slaves then traversed the country, robbing the +harmless peasants, till he reached the vicinity of the castle, +which still bears his name. It was then inhabited by an old Huzareh +chieftain, who had formerly been a kind master to Zohawk's parents. +Regardless of the memory of past kindness, the ruffian determined to +possess himself of this place, and under the pretence of craving the +hospitality of the rightful owner, introduced himself and fellow +villains into the fortification. In the dead of the night, according +to a preconcerted plan, the robbers rose from their place of rest, and +stealing to the sleeping apartment of the chieftain, murdered him; the +affrighted garrison craved for life, but one after another were placed +in irons to be disposed of as slaves. The freebooter, now master of +the fortress, assumed the title of Kh[=a]n, and commenced that career +of ruthless cruelty and depravity which more than any thing else +causes his name to be remembered and his memory cursed by the present +inhabitants of the neighbourhood. The government of the self-styled +Kh[=a]n was a reign of terror, and many were the nameless atrocities +committed within the walls of the castle. He had, however, one +confidant, whom he believed faithful, but who from interested motives +submitted to the savage passions of his master, and being the chief +eunuch of the harem, had great influence in that department. It was +the custom of Zohawk Kh[=a]n to choose the autumn of the year for the +season of his predatory excursions, and it happened that, while +absent with the flower of his force on one of these death-dealing +expeditions, a conspiracy was set on foot, the principal agitator +being the eunuch of the seraglio. "It was determined that on the +evening when the chieftain was expected to return, a general feast +should be given to those remaining at home, with the double view of +rendering the men who had not joined in the conspiracy incapable from +the effects of debauchery in siding with Zohawk, and of exasperating +the ferocious chieftain, who was known to be averse to any revelry +during his absence. The favourite wife summoned all the harem to a +feast, whilst a copious allowance of intoxicating liquor was served +out to the minor portion of the garrison. The wine soon produced +the required effect, and in the midst of the revelry and uproar the +Kh[=a]n appeared at his castle gate, and without enquiring the cause +of the tumult, instantly proceeded to the harem, and lifting the +Purdah stood in the presence of his wives. 'What is this?' said he, +glancing savagely round.--'We expected your return and have prepared a +feast to welcome you,' was the ironical reply of the favourite wife, +who at the same time trembling in her limbs scarce dared to face the +enraged tyrant, 'It is a lie, offspring of a Kaffir; you shall pay the +penalty of your disobedience of my orders. Here, Saleh, take her and +throw her over the battlements into the river;' but ere the reluctant +eunuch could enforce the cruel mandate, the woman raised her hand, +and with a small dagger pierced herself to the heart. Unmoved by her +tragic fate, Zohawk instantly commanded that four of the other women +should be dealt with in the same way, and seeing the eunuch hesitate, +drew his Persian blade and rushed at him; but ere the sword fell, the +knife of Saleh was sheathed in the ruffian's breast. "The news of his +death spread rapidly through the castle; then followed the strife +of war. The Kh[=a]n's party, though in number nearly double that of +Saleh, were wearied with their recent foray, and after a desperate +conflict of three hours they were driven into one of the wings of +the castle, and butchered to a man. Blood flowed in almost every +apartment; broken swords, daggers, and matchlocks lay in all +directions, shewing how terrible the strife had been. And now, when +Zohawk's party had been exterminated, a murmuring arose amongst the +victors as to who should be the chief, and Saleh, perceiving that he +should gain nothing for the exertions he had made, demanded permission +to leave the castle, taking with him as his sole share of booty his +sister, who was an inmate of the harem. His terms were immediately +complied with, and the wary eunuch lost no time in quitting the scene +of blood. + +"Those remaining agreed to defer the election of a chief till they had +refreshed themselves after their labours: in the heat of intoxication +blood again flowed, and after passing the whole night in drinking and +fighting, morning appeared to eighteen survivors of the fray. Each +still claimed for himself the chieftainship, and while still wrangling +on the subject, one of the wounded partizans of Saleh, unperceived +by the drunkards, secreted a large bag of powder in the room, and +igniting it by a train with his slow match crawled out of the castle. + +"The explosion was terrific; down toppled tower and bastion, +enveloping in their ruins the remainder of the garrison, and the +castle was in a few moments reduced to the shapeless mass which it now +presents. + +"The wounded author of the catastrophe alone escaped; but the +knowledge of his crimes prevented him from returning to his country, +and he wandered for many years about the blackened walls, the terror +of the neighbourhood, who considered him an evil spirit. He subsisted +on herbs growing on the adjacent mountains, till at last he +disappeared no one knew where. Since that period, the fortress has +never been the resting place of the traveller or the haunt of the +freebooter." + +Such was the terrible tale of blood and wounds which my informant +communicated to me, and certainly, if it rests its foundation on any +one of the horrors with which it is filled, the castle of Zohawk does +well deserve its bad repute. + +On the 23rd we left Bamee[=a]n and proceeded over the Ir[=a]k pass to +Oorgundee, where we arrived on the 28th. No event occurred nor any +thing worth mentioning, unless it be the "naïveté" of an old man, who, +observing me light my cigar with a lucifer-match, asked in a grave +and solemn tone, whether that was indeed fire. I took his finger, and +placed it in the flame, much to his astonishment, but convincing him +of its reality. He then enquired if it was the fire from heaven, which +he heard the Feringhis were possessed of. I endeavoured, but I fear +without success, to explain to the old gentleman the nature of +fulminating substances, and though he listened with patience, he was +evidently still in the dark, when I presented him with the contents +of my match-box and shewed him how to ignite them; his gratitude was +manifest, as he walked off highly pleased with his toy, which I hope +may not have burned his fingers. + +Sturt left me on the 29th, being anxious to get back to Cabul; but +as I had three days to spare, and my taste for wandering was still +unabated, I joined Capt. Westmacott, of the 37th Native Infantry, in +a flying excursion into the valley of Charrik[=a]r, which the +Affgh[=a]ns consider as the garden of Cabul. The first day we rode +from Oorgundee to Shukkur Durra, or "the sugar valley," so called, +not from growing that useful article of grocery, but from its fertile +orchards and extensive vineyards. After a few miles' ride we crossed +a low range of hills, and came upon the flourishing district of +Be-tout,--literally, "without mulberries." The sagacious reader will +justly infer that mulberry trees were in profusion every where else; +indeed so plentiful are they in general that many of the natives +live almost exclusively in winter upon the fruit, which is dried and +reduced to a powder, and after being mixed with a little milk, or even +water, forms a palatable and nutritious food. The view from the +crest of the low range of hills was really enchanting, and strongly +contrasted with the wild and craggy mountains amongst which we had of +late been struggling. An extensive plain, bounded by high mountains, +and again crowned by the snowy peaks of those more distant, lay +before us, its whole surface dotted with a multitude of white forts +surrounded by a belt of the most vivid green, the barrenness of the +uncultivated spots acting as a foil to the rich vegetation which +springs under the foot of the Affgh[=a]n husbandman wherever he can +introduce the fertilizing stream. We rode leisurely on through this +wilderness of gardens, till on approaching the village of Be-tout the +loud wail of women hired to pour forth their lamentations for some +misfortune assailed our ears, and on enquiring we learnt that one +of the inhabitants had been murdered the preceding night under the +following circumstances. + +It appears that ten years ago the murdered man (who was a Persian) had +a very pretty daughter, and that a neighbouring chief hearing of her +beauty caused her to be forcibly seized and conveyed to his own fort. +The father, regardless of any consideration but revenge, arming +himself with his long Affgh[=a]n knife, gained admission into the +chief's house and immediately cut him down and made his escape. For +ten years he concealed himself from the vengeance of the relatives +of the chief, but a few days before he had returned to his native +village, hoping that time would have softened the vindictiveness of +his enemy; but he shewed his ignorance of the Affgh[=a]n character, +with whom revenge is a sacred virtue. He had not been long returned, +when a nephew of the chief he had slain shot him through the heart +from behind a wall. As we passed through the village we saw the +inhabitants crowding round the still unburied corpse of the injured +father, and our thoughts were painfully diverted from a contemplation +of the richness and plenty which Providence had vouchsafed to this +fertile spot, to a mournful consideration of the wild passions of man, +who pollutes the earth with the blood of his fellow-creature. + +As we proceeded onwards we came upon those luxuriant vineyards which +produce the famous Kohist[=a]n grape, of enormous size as to berry +and bunch, but excelling in delicacy of flavour, in juiciness, and +thinness of skin even the far-famed Muscadel. + +The vines are trained either upon a trellice work or along the ground, +the latter mode being used for the most delicate grape; but it +requires more care and attention, it being necessary while the fruit +is ripening so to trim the plant and thin its foliage, that the branch +may have sufficient sun, and be kept as near as possible to the +earth without touching it. This mode of training is adopted in the +cultivation of the enormous black grape, called from its size and +colour "the cow's-eye." Towards evening we reached the vicinity of +Shukkur Durrah, lying at the extremity of the plain and backed by +mountains of considerable height. Here we encamped for the night under +the shelter of a magnificent walnut tree, in a small garden adjoining +the fort. + +After we had pitched our tents, many Hindoos who trade in fruit, the +staple produce of the country, came to pay their respects, and one of +them informed me that about four miles across the mountains to the +north-west in the Sheikkallee Huzareh country, there were three lakes +so extensive that it occupied a well-mounted horseman a whole day to +ride round them. No European, he said, had ever visited them; one +gentleman, whose name he did not know, had tried to reach them, but +drank so much brandy by the way that he was obliged to lie down +instead, and the guide had great difficulty in getting him back. I +regretted that the expiration of my leave prevented me from exploring +these lakes, which I do not think have ever been examined by any of +our engineers; but I hope that, had I undertaken the excursion, I +should not have fallen into the same scrape the above mentioned +gentleman did. The gardens belonging to the chief were well worth +looking at, with a beautiful stream of water flowing through the +centre, tortured by artificial rocks into fifty diminutive cataracts. + +We were well satisfied with our quarters, but after night-fall +intimation was given us that unless we kept a sharp look-out it was +very probable we might have some unwelcome intruders before morning, +as a neighbouring fort was hostile to that of Shukkur Durrah; and +moreover, that the inhabitants of the fort itself were in the utmost +dread of a band of desperadoes who infested the adjacent hills and +occasionally paid them a nocturnal visit. Luckily for us they were in +hourly expectation of such an intrusion, for their fears kept them +on the alert, and they had a watchman on each of the towers, whose +sonorous voices proclaimed every hour of the night. Our guard was +now reduced to six, the remainder being employed to escort Sturt's +instruments into Cabul, so that I really did not much like the +appearance of things; when about midnight my servant reported to me +that the sentry saw a great many lights moving about us. + +I instantly rose and distinctly observed the lighted slow matches of +firearms; there might have been forty or fifty. The sentry challenged, +but the ruffians returned no answer, and decamped, finding us on the +alert, and probably not knowing our weakness; for had we come to blows +our party must have got the worst of it, though I have not the least +doubt that our Affgh[=a]n guard would have stood by us even against +their own countrymen. + +The next morning we proceeded along a very pretty road, flanked by +green hedgerows full of wild flowers, and varied occasionally near the +houses with parterres of roses of exquisite fragrance. My route lay to +B[=a]ber's tomb, but Capt. Westmacott being anxious to reach C[=a]bul +could not accompany me, so we parted, mutually regretting that we had +so short a time to spend in this delicious region. At B[=a]ber's tomb +the Kazi of the adjacent village endeavoured to play off on me a +trick, well known to old campaigners, by assuring me that unless I +took from his hands a guard of at least twelve men (of course paying +them for their services), my life would not be safe during the night. +I refused his guard, and the only annoyance I experienced was from +myriads of musquitoes, who tormented me incessantly throughout the +night. I rode into camp the following day, and was delighted to find +myself once more with my brother officers. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +On the 24th September I started on another excursion, though under +very different circumstances; our party on this occasion consisting of +Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry, two companies of the 37th Native +Infantry, two squadrons of the Bengal 2nd Cavalry, a small body of +Affgh[=a]n horsemen under Prince Timour Shah, three nine-pounders, two +24-inch howitzers, and two 8 1/2-inch mortars, the whole under the +command of Sir Robert Sale, the object of the expedition being to +quell some refractory chiefs inhabiting the northern and some hilly +parts of the Kohist[=a]n. + +It would be beyond the sphere of this little book to enter into a +detailed account of our operations in the field, nor do I pretend +to have sufficient materials by me for such a delicate task, in the +execution of which I might by erroneous statements expose myself to +just animadversion. + +I had not, I regret to say, the means of ascertaining with precision +the different causes which had driven these hill chiefs into +rebellion. The footing which Dost Mahomed had lately acquired in the +north-west encouraged them to persist, and it will be seen in the +sequel, that at the disgraceful scene of Purwun Durrah the Dost was +almost a _prisoner_ in the hands of those who were considered, by the +unversed in the intricacies of Affgh[=a]n policy, to be only in arms +for the restoration of their favourite to the throne of C[=a]bul. + +Were it in my power to give an accurate description of the different +positions assumed by the enemy, and provided I had the leisure to +survey the ground, then I am well aware that I might have claimed +additional interest for my pages, as I should have elucidated the mode +of warfare peculiar to the Affgh[=a]ns; but such an attempt would +perhaps carry me out of my depth. I must therefore be content with +remarking, that though in action the Affgh[=a]ns acknowledge some +guiding chieftain, yet the details of position are left to each tribe. +They have no confidence in each other; it follows, therefore, that the +wisest plan is to turn either or both flanks, as this manoeuvre is +almost sure to require a change in the original disposition of their +force, which they, for want of good communications between their +detached parties, are unable to effect. Hence confusion arises, and +the uncertainty of support generally causes the whole to retreat. The +Affgh[=a]ns have great dread of their flanks being turned, and will +sometimes abandon an almost impregnable position in consequence of a +demonstration being made to that effect, which after all could never +have been carried out. + +On the third day after our departure from C[=a]bul, the force encamped +at a place called Vaugh opposite the beautiful Ist[=a]lif, whose +luxuriant vineyards and magnificent orchards have before excited the +admiration of the traveller. But we had still some marches to get over +before reaching the territories of the refractory chiefs, and it +was not till the 29th that we came to Toottum Durrah, or valley of +mulberries. Here we found the enemy posted in force, but it was merely +an affair of detachments, two companies of the 13th and two of the +37th being ordered to make a detour to the right and left, so as to +threaten the enemy's flanks. The main column closing up continued to +advance; the enemy did not make a very determined resistance, yet a +chance shot killed poor Edward Conolly, brother to the victim of the +ruffian king of Bokhara. His--poor fellow!--was a soldier's death; +though we deplore his loss, we know that he died in honorable warfare; +but we have no such consolation for the fate of his poor brother, and +it is with difficulty that his indignant countrymen can refrain from +imprecating the vengeance of God upon the cowardly destroyer of so +much talent and virtue. + +The enemy made no further stand this day, and we proceeded about +fifteen miles down the valley to Julghur, destroying before our +departure the mud forts of Toottum Durrah. At Julghur the enemy shewed +more resistance; they trusted in the strength of their fort, and we +perhaps too much to its weakness. The result was, that a wing of the +13th, not more than one hundred and twenty strong, suffered a loss +of fourteen men killed and seventeen wounded, and the enemy were +eventually shelled out by the batteries under the direction of Capt. +Abbott. + +The following morning we buried our gallant companions, amongst them +our respected serjeant-major (Airey), in one deep grave; but a report +was current, that shortly after our departure, the bodies had been +disinterred and exposed in front of the grave, that every Affgh[=a]n +might witness and exult in the disgrace to which they had subjected +the corpses of the Feringhis. + +This is but a single instance of the hatred which actuated our enemy, +and when we consider the exasperating effects of these cowardly +outrages on the minds of the soldiery, we should the more admire the +generosity and clemency of the British in the hour of victory. I +am aware that ill-informed people have accused our armies in +Affghanist[=a]n, especially after the advance of General Pollock's +force, of many acts of cruelty to the natives, but I can emphatically +deny the justice of the accusation. Some few instances of revenge for +past injuries did occur, but I am sure that an impartial soldier would +rather admire the forbearance of men who for days had been marching +over the mangled remains of the C[=a]bul army. + +But to return to the Kohist[=a]n. On the 4th of October we took a +transverse direction westward, crossing the plain of Buggr[=a]m, +supposed to be the site of the "Alexandria ad Calcem Caucasi" of the +ancients; numerous coins, gems, and relics of antiquity are found +hereabouts, particularly subsequently to the melting of the snows. +Formerly they were considered useless, but when our enterprising +countrymen and the army of the Indus found their way to C[=a]bul, +these memorials of the Greek had ready purchasers amongst the +numismatologists of the British force. At the same time the +C[=a]bulese considered it great folly our exchanging the current coin +for what were in their estimation useless pieces of old silver and +copper. + +Throughout the marches and countermarches which it was necessary for +us to make in the northern districts of the Kohist[=a]n, in order to +prevent the enemy from gathering together, we were much interested by +the varied beauty of the scenery; and it must candidly be admitted +that our ignorance as to the nature or amount of force we might any +day find opposed to us by no means diminished our excitement. Rather +an extraordinary phenomenon occurs in a small range of hills detached +from the parent mountains, a little to the northward of the fort of +Julghur. From top to bottom of the precipitous side of one of these +spurs extends a light golden streak, rather thicker and less highly +coloured at the bottom than at the top. I was unable to approach it +nearer than about four miles, but I was credibly informed that the +streak was in reality what its appearance first suggested to my mind, +a body of fine sand continually flowing over the side of the hill, and +depositing its volumes in a heap at the base of the mountain. I might +perhaps in a windy day have ascertained the correctness of the report, +as then the sandy cascade would appear as a cloud of dust, but the +weather was calm during the whole time we were in its vicinity. It +is called by the natives the Regrow[=a]n or flowing sand. Being no +geologist, I refrain from offering any suggestions as to its cause, +but merely state what I saw and heard. + +After marching about the country for some days like the Paladins of +old in search of adventure, we turned our faces once more towards +C[=a]bul and encamped near Kara-bagh. While here, a scene occurred +which will doubtless be still in the recollection of many officers +with the force, and which I relate as illustrative of the barbarous +customs of the people. Many of the stories which I have introduced +must of course be received by the impartial or incredulous reader "cum +grano salis." I have given them as they were repeated to me, but I can +personally vouch for the following fact. + +Our bugles had just sounded the first call to dinner, when a few +officers who were strolling in front of the camp observed a woman with +a black veil walking hurriedly from some dark-looking object, and +proceed in the direction of that part of the camp occupied by the +Affghan force under Prince Timour Shah, the Shah Zada, heir apparent +to the throne of C[=a]bul. On approaching the object, it was +discovered to be a man lying on the ground with his hands tied behind +him, his throat half severed, with three stabs in his breast, and two +gashes across the stomach. The mangled wretch was still breathing, +and a medical man being at hand, measures were instantly taken most +calculated to save his life, but without success, and in a quarter of +an hour he was a corpse. Familiar as we were with scenes which in our +own happy land would have excited the horror and disgust of every man +possessed of the common feelings of humanity, there was something in +this strange murder which caused us to make enquiries, and the reader +will hardly believe me when I tell him that the victim met his fate +with the knowledge and consent of Timour Shah. The woman whom we first +observed was the legal murderess. She had that morning been to the +Shah Zada and sworn on the Kor[=a]n that the deceased many years back +had murdered her husband and ran away with his other wife; she had +demanded redress according to the Mahommedan law--blood for blood. The +Shah Zada offered the woman a considerable sum of money if she would +waive her claim to right of personally inflicting the punishment on +the delinquent, and allow the man to be delivered over to his officers +of justice, promising a punishment commensurate with the crime he had +committed. But the woman persisted in her demand for the law of the +Kor[=a]n. Her victim was bound and delivered into her hands; she had +him conducted in front of the prince's camp about three hundred yards +off, and effected her inhuman revenge with an Affgh[=a]n knife, a fit +instrument for such a purpose. + +Before returning to C[=a]bul it was deemed requisite to punish the +rebellious owner of the fort of Babboo-koosh-Ghur. On the approach of +our force he decamped with all his vassals, and as it was advisable to +leave some permanent mark of our displeasure, the bastions were blown +down with gunpowder. It seems that the enemy imagined we were very +negligent in camp, for they honored us the same evening with one of +their night attacks, for which they are famous, the object in general +being rather to harass their adversary by keeping him on the alert +than to penetrate to his tents. + +On the present occasion they commenced a distant fusillade upon the +left of our line, extending it gradually along nearly the whole face; +a few rounds of grape from the artillery soon cleared _their_ front, +but the enemy continued for above three hours a random fire upon the +left, and, strange to say, they kept aloof from the European troops, +who were encamped as usual on the right of the line. The artillery +horses being picketted in soft ground soon drew their iron pegs, and +having thus obtained their liberty, scampered up and down in rear of +the troops and amongst the tents, thereby considerably adding to the +confusion and uproar. On the alarm first sounding every light was +extinguished in the camp, and well was it that these precautionary +measures were adopted, for a great portion of the standing tents were +riddled. The enemy fired without aim, and we were fortunate enough to +lose only one sepoy; we could not ascertain the amount of casualty +amongst them, but from the sudden cessation of any attack upon that +part of the line where the artillery was stationed, we concluded that +the rounds of grape must have told with considerable effect. + +After midnight the enemy withdrew, and when at a distance of about +half a mile from our outposts gave a shout of defiance, perhaps to +draw a party from the camp to pursue them, which, however, was not +done, or rejoicing at the havoc they imagined to have made in our +ranks. We heard afterwards that the Affgh[=a]ns with their usual +superstition had remembered that many years ago a large army had been +attacked on the same ground we then occupied and annihilated, and +that probably a like success would crown their efforts in the present +instance. + +This night attack rendered some further demonstration of our powers of +retaliation necessary, particularly as a portion of our adversaries +were from the fort of Kardurrah, to which we proceeded the next day +and easily captured, the enemy retiring to the hills on our advance, +abandoning a strong and easily defended position, for their flank +could not have been turned without incurring considerable loss, if +the fort of Kardurrah had been held in a determined manner. It was +generally remarked as being a particularly strong place, the approach +leading through orchards surrounded by mud walls six or seven feet +high and loopholed, the lanes intersecting them being barricadoed as +if to be held to the last extremity. + +Probably such was their valiant intention, but it seems they were +bewildered by our attacking them from different points, and not +trusting to each other for support, all took to their heels. The +undulating ground was strewn with masses of detached rocks, and they +had also built up several small but substantial stone breast-works, +so that altogether we had reason to congratulate ourselves on their +unexpected retreat. + +The women had been previously conveyed away with the heavy baggage, +and we found the houses empty, but fruit of every description was +lying about the streets, prepared and packed for the winter supply of +the C[=a]bul market. Melons, peaches, pears, walnuts were either in +heaps against the walls or placed in baskets for transportation; but +the most curious arrangement was exhibited in the mode in which they +preserved their brobdignag grapes for winter consumption. About thirty +berries, each of enormous size and separately enveloped in cotton, +were hermetically enclosed between a couple of rudely shaped clay +saucers, so that we were obliged to crack the saucers to get at +the fruit inside, and great was the scrambling amongst the thirsty +soldiers for their luscious contents as they rolled out upon the +ground. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +The thread of my narrative now guides me to an event which cannot +be contemplated without astonishment and regret. I allude to the +unaccountable panic which seized the 2nd Cavalry during the action at +Purwan Durrah; indeed I would willingly pass it over in silence, but I +am anxious to express my humble admiration of the chivalrous bearing +of the European officers on that melancholy occasion. + +The several severe blows which we had recently inflicted upon the +Affgh[=a]ns during the course of this short compaign, and their not +having lately appeared in any organized force in the vicinity of our +camp, caused an opinion to prevail amongst many that our labours for +the season were brought to a close; but on the 20th of October we were +again excited by the rumour that Dost Mahommed, who had been hovering +about, intended as a "dernière ressource" once more to try his fortune +in war. Our anticipations of a little more active service were soon +realized by an order to advance upon Purwan Durrah. We accordingly +struck our tents, passing by Aukserai, and encamped near Meer +Musjedi's fortress, remaining there till the 3rd of November watching +the movements of the enemy. On that day information was received that +the Dost, with a large body of horse and foot, was moving towards us +by the Purwan Durrah; the general decided upon checking his progress, +and an advanced guard consisting of four companies of the 13th under +Major Kershaw, two companies of Native Infantry, two nine-pounders, +and two squadrons of the 2nd Bengal Cavalry, the whole under the +command of Col. Salter of the 2nd Cavalry, preceded the main column. +On the road we met a follower of one of the friendly chiefs charged +with a report that the ex-Ameer's party had been attacking some of the +forts in the valley, but for the present had taken up a position on +the neighbouring hills. We soon came on them, and at a short distance +perceived a small body of cavalry in the plain. A rumour passed +through our ranks that Dost Mahommed was himself amongst the horsemen, +and it was a subject of congratulation that the only opportunity had +now arrived of our cavalry engaging theirs, and that one brilliant +attack would bring this desultory warfare to a glorious termination. + +The squadrons under the command of the gallant Fraser were ordered to +advance, and moved steadily forward at a trot; all eyes were fixed +upon them--the men were apparently steady--and even the least sanguine +could hardly doubt the result of a shock of disciplined cavalry on an +irregular body of horse not half their numerical strength. + +But when the word to charge was given, an uncontrolled panic seized +the troopers; instead of putting their horses into a gallop and +dashing forward to certain victory, the pace gradually slackened; in +vain did their officers use every effort to urge the men on--in vain +did the spirit-stirring trumpet sound the charge--the troopers were +spell-bound by the demon of fear; the trot became a walk, then a halt; +and then, forgetful of their duty, their honor, and their officers, +they wheeled about and shamefully fled. + +But not for one single instant did Fraser hesitate; with a bitter and +well-merited expression of contempt at this unmanly desertion, he +briefly said, "We must charge alone," and dashing spurs into his +horse, he rushed to an almost certain fate, followed by Ponsonby, +Crispin, Broadfoot, Dr. Lord, and by about a dozen of his men, who all +preferred an honourable death to an ignominious life. + +The feelings of disgust mingled with intense admiration with which +this unparalleled scene was viewed by the infantry can be better +imagined than expressed; and those who under similar trying +circumstances would have endeavoured to imitate the heroism of their +countrymen, could scarce subdue a thrill of horror as this handful of +brave soldiers galloped forward. The intrepid Fraser, mounted upon a +large and powerful English horse, literally hewed a lane for himself +through the astonished Affghans; and Ponsonby too--for I am weary of +seeking fresh epithets for their unsurpassable conduct--on a strong +Persian mare, for a time bore down all opposition. Dost Mahommed +himself, though in some personal danger from the impetuosity of this +desperate charge, could not restrain his admiration. + +The event fully proved the danger incurred. Dr. Lord, Crispin, and +Broadfoot upheld the glory of their country to the last, and fell +covered with many wounds. Fraser and Ponsonby were both desperately +hacked, and owed their lives to their horses becoming unmanageable, +bearing their riders from the midst of the enemy. The reins of +Ponsonby's bridle were cut, and he himself grievously wounded in the +face, while Fraser's arm was nearly severed in two; neither did +their horses escape in the conflict, as both bore deep gashes of the +Affgh[=a]n blades. + +While the European officers were thus sacrificing themselves in the +execution of their duty, the dastard troopers came galloping in +amongst the infantry of the advanced guard, some of whom were with +difficulty restrained from inflicting on the spot the punishment they +so well deserved. + +Meanwhile the enemy's cavalry, flushed with success, advanced against +the infantry with colours flying and loud shoutings, as in expectation +of an easy victory. But the infantry were prepared to receive them, +and a few rounds from the nine-pounders soon caused them to halt; +finding that their antagonists were not under the same influence as +the cavalry, they gave up the attack and retired to a distant position +on the hills. The steady advance of the 37th N.I. from the main body +of our forces, together with a few judiciously thrown shells, soon +drove their infantry to a more elevated range of hills; and before +sunset we had quiet possession of the field. + +We had the melancholy satisfaction of finding the bodies of our +comrades, whom we buried at night in one large grave, and performing +the solemn service of the dead by torchlight. There is no chance of +their being forgotten: so long as gallantry is admired and honour +revered amongst British soldiers, so long will they remember Fraser's +charge at Purwan Durrah. + +I am loath to dwell on the misconduct of the troopers; as far as I am +enabled to ascertain it was unexpected by the officers. Some, indeed, +declare that previous disaffection existed amongst the men; others say +that the troopers being Mussulmen did not like to charge against Dost +Mahommed himself, whom they considered as their religious chief; but +I think we may fairly attribute their flight to downright +_cowardice_, as no complaint or cause was assigned by the men +previous to encountering the foe. Whatever be the truth, the event was +most unfortunate, for it appears that the Dost was even previous +to the action anxious to throw himself upon the protection of +the British, but his followers would not permit him to do so; +nevertheless, on the evening of that day he managed to elude their +vigilance, and riding directly to C[=a]bul met the envoy Sir William +M'Naghten taking his evening ride, and surrendered himself into his +hands. + +The news of this event of course put an end to further hostilities, +and on the 7th of November we returned to C[=a]bul, heartily glad once +more to get comfortably housed, as the winter was rapidly approaching +and the nights severely cold. + + + + + +THE END. + + + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, shewing the Entrance Hole to the +larger Cavern + +Map of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route to Koollum + +View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik + +View of Koollum from the Eastward + +Fac-Simile Drawings of Ancient Coins found in Toorkisthan and +Affghanistan, in the possession of Capt. Burslem, as follows: + +No. 1. A Bactrian coin: legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from +the Greek lettering, Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a +tuckt or throne, with his right arm extended. + +No. 2. A square copper coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated +from the Greek lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, +holding in one hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse +bears Pelhvic characters. + +No. 3. A square copper coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus megal] is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the +Great, of which I have no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he +reigned in Bactria 181 B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, with +the figures of two warriors mounted. + +No. 4. A square silver coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the +inscription, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. +The reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl. + +No. 5. A square copper coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is +a woman holding a flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to +be a Kanirkos coin. + +No. 6. A round silver Indo-Scythian coin. + +No. 7. A square silver coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an +elephant, with the Bactrian monogram beneath--[Transliterated from +the Greek, Basileus pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The +characters and figures on this coin are very distinct. + +No. 8. Another coin of Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis +elevated: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. On the reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable +coin. + +No, 9. A gold coin, supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The +legend begins with Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a +naked figure, with the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but +in copper, have been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. +Lady Sale considers this coin to be a great beauty and of value. + +No. 10. A gem found in the plain of Buggram. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 *** diff --git a/old/11902-h/11902-h.htm b/old/11902-h/11902-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3963bc9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/11902-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5200 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>A Peep into Toorkisthhan | Project Gutenberg</title> + +<style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin: 10%; + text-align: justify; +} + h1 { +color:#006633; +font-size: 30pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h2 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 25pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h3 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 20pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h4 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 18pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h5 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 15pt; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +h6 { +color: #006633; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: center; +background: transparent; +} + +hr { +color: #663300; +} + +p,td { +font-size: 14pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: justify; +line-height: 120%; +} + +dl,blockquote { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.forenote { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: normal; +text-align: justify; +line-height: 120%; +} + +p.smallprint1 { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 300; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.smallprint2 { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +span.smallprint1 { +font-size: 12pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +span.smallprint2 { +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: justify; +} + +p.center { +text-align: center; +} + +td.center { +font-size: 14pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: 100; +text-align: center; +} + +td.left +{ +font-size: 13pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +} + +td.smallprint { +font-size: 11pt; +color: #663300; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +} + +i { +font-weight: 600; +} + +i.smallprint { +font-weight: 200; +} + + +/*links*/ + +a:link { +color: #006633; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:visited { +color: #006633; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:hover { +color: #ffffcc; +background: #ff0000; +font-size: 14pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a:active { +color: #ff0000; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: underline; +} + +a.small:link { +color: #006633; +font-size: 12pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-align: left; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:visited { +color: #006633; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:hover { +color: #ffffcc; +background: #ff0000; +font-size: 12pt; +font-weight: bold; +text-decoration: none; +} + +a.small:active { +color: #ff0000; +font-weight: bold; +background: transparent; +text-decoration: underline; +} + +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 ***</div> + +<p class="forenote">[Transcriber's Note: There are around 240 +instances of vowels accented with macrons ( straight line above) +mostly Ā or ā, with one instance of ē, and five +instanses of ū, and one u that should be ū and isn't. The +macron is indicative of a lengthened vowel Thus the a-macron +(Ā or ā) is usually pronounced as a long a. Use of +the macron is <i>not</i> consistent throughout the text...<br /> +<br /> + ...and the spelling of some place names is not consistent either: +e.g. Toorkisth[=an]; Toorkisthan; Toorkistan.<br /> +<br /> + (There are also a number of words with 'unusual' spellings.<br /> +<br /> + These spellings I have corrected:<br /> +<br /> + territories for territorities; retrograde for retrogade; amongst +for amonst.<br /> +<br /> + These 'period' spellings I have left intact:<br /> +<br /> + befel, chace, surprized, loth, gallopped, gallopping, secresy, +shew, shewed, shewing, preeminence, handfull, negociation, +threshhold, trellice, picketted, barricadoed, compaign. +I have also retained M'Naghten for the modern McNaghten.)]<br /><br /> +Front-of-Book Illustrations: If the Frontispiece is slow to load, it is repeated at the end of CHAPTER X. +The Map, however has been removed to the end of the book. + + +</p> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h4><a name="Frontispiece">F</a>rontispiece</h4> +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Outer Cave, Yeermallix"> +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td><img src="images/yeermallix3.jpg" width="649" height="498" alt="Outer Cave, Yeermallix" border="0" /></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="85%">View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, +shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + <br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>A PEEP INTO TOORKISTHAN.</h1> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h3>BY CAPTAIN ROLLO BURSLEM,</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h5>THIRTEENTH PRINCE ALBERT'S LIGHT INFANTRY.</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h2>1846.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<hr /> + +<h5>TO THE</h5> + +<br /> + + +<h3>RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARNARVON,</h3> + +<h4>HIGHCLERE CASTLE.</h4> + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> + + +<p class="smallprint2">MY LORD,<br /> +<br /> + Having received your Lordship's permission to dedicate to you this +my first essay as an Author, I beg to tender my best +acknowledgements for the honour, and for the interest you have so +kindly expressed in the success of the following pages. Under such +favourable auspices a successful result may be confidently +anticipated by</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<p class="center">Your Lordship's<br /> +Obliged and obedient servant,<br /> +<br /> + ROLLO +BURSLEM.</p> + +<p class="smallprint1">HAREWOOD LODGE,<br /> +HAMPSHIRE.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h4>TO THE READER.</h4> + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> + + +<p class="smallprint2">The following pages are literally what they +profess to be, a record of a few weeks snatched from a soldier's +life in Affghanistān, and spent in travels through a region +which few Europeans have ever visited before. The notes from which +it is compiled were written on the desert mountains of Central +Asia, with very little opportunity, as will be easily supposed, for +study or polish. Under these circumstances, it can hardly be +necessary to deprecate the criticism of the reader. Composition is +not one of the acquirements usually expected of a soldier. What is +looked for in his narrative is not elegance, but plainness. He sees +more than other people, but he studies less, and the strangeness of +his story must make up for the want of ornament. I can hardly +expect but that the reader may consider the style of my chapters +inferior to many of those which are supplied to the public by those +who are fortunate enough to enjoy good libraries and plenty of +leisure; two advantages which a soldier on service seldom +experiences. But this I cannot help. Such as they are, I offer him +my unadorned notes; and perhaps he will be good enough to let one +thing compensate another, and to recollect that if the style of the +book is different from what he sometimes sees, yet the scenery is +so too. If instead of a poetical composition he gets a +straightforward story, yet instead of the Rhine or the Lakes he +gets a mountain chain between Independent Tartary and China.<br /> +<br /> + WALMAR BARRACKS,<br /> + <i>March</i>, +1846.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>CONTENTS</h4> + +<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" align="center" +border="0" summary="Contents - Chapter Headings and Linkes to each Chapter"> +<tr> +<td width="25%"> </td> +<td width="30%" valign="top"><a href="#I">CHAPTER I</a><br /> +<a href="#II">CHAPTER II</a><br /> +<a href="#III">CHAPTER III</a><br /> +<a href="#IV">CHAPTER IV</a><br /> +<a href="#V">CHAPTER V</a><br /> +<a href="#VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br /> +<a href="#VII">CHAPTER VII</a><br /> +<a href="#VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a><br /> +<a href="#IX">CHAPTER IX</a><br /> +<a href="#X">CHAPTER X</a><br /> +<br /> + </td> +<td width="45%"><a href="#XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br /> +<a href="#XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a><br /> +<a href="#XV">CHAPTER XV</a><br /> +<a href="#XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a><br /> +<a href="#XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a><br /> +<a href="#XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a><br /> +<a href="#XIX">CHAPTER XIX</a><br /> +<a href="#XX">CHAPTER XX</a><br /> +<br /> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%" align="center" +border="0" summary="Link to List of Illustrations"> +<tr> +<td class="center"><a href="#PLATES">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</a><br /> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>A<br /> +<br /> +PEEP INTO TOORKISTHĀN.[*]</h4> + +<span class="smallprint2">[* Note: A portion of the following pages +in their original form has appeared in the Asiatic Journal.]</span> + + +<p class="center">__________</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="I">I.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>During the summer of 1840, the aspect of the political horizon +in Affghanistān afforded but slight grounds for +prognosticating the awful catastrophe which two short years after +befel the British arms. Dost Mahommed had not yet given himself up, +but was a fugitive, and detained by the King of Bokhara, while many +of the principal Sirdars had already tendered their allegiance to +Shah Sooja: and there was in truth some foundation for the boast +that an Englishman might travel in safety from one end of +Affghanistān to the other. An efficient force of tried +soldiers occupied Ghuzni, Cabul, Candahar, Jellalabad, and the +other strongholds of the country; our outposts were pushed to the +north-west some fifty miles beyond Bameeān, the Khyber and +Bolun passes were open, and to the superficial observer all was +tranquil. The elements of strife indeed existed, but at the time +when I took the ramble which these pages attempt to describe, +British power was paramount, and the rumour was already rife of the +speedy diminution of the force which supported it.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the modern rage for exploration, but few of our +countrymen have hitherto pierced the stupendous barrier of the +Paropamisan range; but the works of Hanway, Forster, Moorcroft, and +Trebeck, Masson, and Sir Alexander Burnes, convey most valuable +information concerning the wild regions through which they +travelled, and I am bound in simple honesty to confess that my +little book does not aspire to rank with publications of such +standard merit. An author's apology, however humble and sincere, is +seldom attended to and more rarely accepted. Surely I am not wrong +in assuming that a feeling of mournful interest will pervade the +bosom of those who have the patience to follow my perhaps +over-minute description of places whose names may be already +familiar to them as connected with the career of those bold spirits +who in life devoted their energies to the good of their country and +the advancement of science, and who in the hour of disaster, when +every hope was dead, met their fate with the unflinching gallantry +of soldiers and the patient resignation of Christians.</p> + +<p>My lamented friend, Lieutenant Sturt, of the Bengal Engineers, +was one of the foremost of those who endeavoured, during the +critical situation of the Cabul force previous to its annihilation, +to rally the drooping spirits of the soldiers; and without wishing +in any way to reflect on others, it may fairly be said that his +scientific attainments and personal exertions contributed not a +little to those partial successes, which to the sanguine seemed for +a moment to restore the favourable aspect of our military position. +But I forbear from now dwelling upon these circumstances, lest I +might undesignedly give pain to those who still survive the fatal +event, merely stating my humble opinion that the memory of any +mistake committed, either in a political or military light, will by +the noble-minded be drowned in sorrow for the sufferings and death +of so many thousands of brave men.</p> + +<p>In the month of June, 1840, Lieutenant Sturt was ordered to +survey the passes of the Hindoo Koosh, and I obtained leave from my +regiment, then in camp at Cabul, for the purpose of accompanying +him; my object was simply to seek pleasant adventures; the +"<i>cacoethes ambulandi</i>" was strong upon me, and I thirsted to +visit the capital of ancient Bactria; the circumstances which +prevented our reaching Balkh will hereafter be detailed, but the +main object of the expedition was attained, as Sturt executed an +excellent map of the passes alluded to, and satisfactorily +demonstrated that almost all the defiles of this vast chain, or +rather group of mountains, may be turned, and that it would require +a large and active well-disciplined force to defend the principal +ones. I have made every possible inquiry as to the fate of the +results of Sturt's labours, but fear that they too were lost in the +dreadful retreat. Whatever still exists must be in the +Quarter-Master General's Department in India, far out of my reach, +so that I am obliged again to request the indulgence of my reader +for the want of a proper map on which he might, if he felt so +inclined, trace our daily progress,[*] and to crave his forgiveness +if I occasionally repeat what has been far more ably related by +Moorcroft and the other authors whom I have already mentioned.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Since receiving the proof sheets +for correction I have been kindly supplied by my friend Major Wade +with a map taken principally from the one executed by the late +Lieutenant Sturt.]</p> + +<p>To the traveller whose experience of mountain scenery is +confined to Switzerland, the bold rocks and rich though narrow +valleys of the frontiers of Toorkisthān offer all the charms +of novelty; the lower ranges of hills are gloomy and shrubless, +contrasting strikingly with the dazzling, yet distant splendour of +the snowy mountains. It is an extraordinary fact, that throughout +the whole extent of country occupied by these under features, which +presents every variety of form and geological structure, there are +scarcely any hills bearing trees or even shrubs; every valley, +however, is intersected by its native stream, which in winter +pursues its headlong course with all the impetuosity of a mountain +torrent, but in the summer season glides calmly along as in our +native meadows.</p> + +<p>The multitude and variety of well-preserved fossils which are +imbedded in the different strata of the Toorkisthān hills +would amply reward the researches of the Geologist, and to the +Numismatologist this portion of Asia proves eminently interesting, +Balkh and other localities in its vicinity abounding in ancient +coins, gems, and other relics of former days; and I much regret +that I was unable to reach the field from whence I expected to +gather so rich a harvest.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="II">II.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>In accordance with the golden rule of restricting our baggage to +the least possible weight and compass, we allowed ourselves but one +pony a piece for our necessaries, in addition to what were required +for our small tent and cooking utensils, Sturt's surveying +instruments being all carried by Affghān porters whom he hired +at Cabul for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On the 13th of June we commenced our ramble, intending to +proceed to Balkh by the road through Bameeān, as we should +then have to traverse the principal passes of the Hindoo Khosh, and +our route would be that most likely to be selected by an army +either advancing from Bokhārā on Cabul or moving in the +opposite direction. The plundering propensities of the peasantry +rendered an escort absolutely necessary, and ours consisted of +thirty Affghans belonging to one of Shah Soojah's regiments, under +the command of Captain Hopkins. As Government took this opportunity +of sending a lac[*] of rupees for the use of the native troop of +Horse-Artillery stationed at Bameeān, our military force was +much increased by the treasure-guard of eighty Sipahis and some +remount horses; so that altogether we considered our appearance +quite imposing enough to secure us from any insult from the +predatory tribes through whose haunts we proposed travelling. Our +first day's march was merely to make a fair start, for we encamped +two miles north-west of the city in a grove of mulberry-trees, and +the wind, as usual in summer, blowing strong in the day-time, laid +the produce at our feet; so that by merely stretching out our +hands, we picked up the fruit in abundance; for although the sun +was powerful, we preferred the open air under the deep foliage to +the closeness of a tent. During the early part of the night an +alarm was raised throughout our small camp, and as we knew the +vicinity of Cabul to be infested with the most persevering thieves, +we naturally enough attributed the disturbance to their unwelcome +visit, but it turned out to be only one of the remount horses, +which having broken away from his picket was scampering furiously +round our tents, knocking over the chairs, tables, and boxes which +had been placed in readiness for packing outside the tent door. The +neighing of the other horses, and their struggles to get loose and +have a fight with their more fortunate companion, added to the +braying of donkeys, barking of dogs, and groaning of the camels, +gave me the notion of a menagerie in a state of insurrection. The +affair looked serious when the animal began to caper amongst +Sturt's instruments, but luckily we secured him before any damage +was done, though for some time theodolites, sextants, artificial +horizons, telescopes, and compasses were in imminent danger. The +worst of an occurrence of this kind is, that your servants once +disturbed never think of returning to rest when quiet is restored, +but sit up for the remainder of the night, chatting over the event +with such warmth and animation, as effectually to keep their master +awake as well as each other. We started next morning at four, and +marched about six miles and a half, the distances being always +measured with a perambulator, the superintending of which gave +Sturt considerable trouble, as it was necessary to have an eye +perpetually on the men who guided it, lest they should have +recourse to the usual practice of <i>carrying</i> the machine, +whenever the nature of the ground made that mode of transportation +more convenient than <i>wheeling</i>. This, together with taking +bearings, and the other details of surveying, gave my companion +plenty of occupation, not only during the march, but for the rest +of the day when halted.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[*Note: lăc, lăkh (-k), n. +(Anglo-Ind.). A hundred thousand (usu.<i> of rupees).</i>]</p> + +<p>We were now encamped close to a village called Kulla Kazee, a +place of no very good repute as regarding honesty; indeed, we were +well aware of the predatory propensities of our neighbours; but we +seemed destined to experience more annoyance from the great +apprehension of being attacked which existed amongst our followers, +than from any well-founded anticipation of it; their fears were not +totally groundless, as it must be confessed that to a needy and +disorganized population the bait of a lac of rupees was very +tempting.</p> + +<p>We had chosen a picturesque little garden for our resting place, +the treasure and remount horses with the Sipahi guard being +encamped about half a mile off to our rear. At about eleven at +night the European sergeant in charge of the horses burst into our +tent in some consternation, stating that a large band of robbers +were descending from the adjacent hills to attack the treasure. +Sturt immediately jumped up, and mounting his horse gallopped off +to the supposed scene of action. All was quiet <i>without</i> the +camp; <i>within</i> there was a terrible bustle, which Sturt at +last succeeded in allaying by sending out patrols in various +direction, who reported that nothing could be either heard or seen +of the dreaded robbers. Being rather averse to these nocturnal +diversions, especially as they promised to be of frequent +occurrence, I made careful inquiries to ascertain if there were any +real foundation for the alarm, but all I could learn was, that the +neighbourhood had always been noted for robbers, who hasten towards +the point upon the report of any party worth plundering passing +near any of their forts. Possibly some robbers had gained +intelligence of our treasure, and had actually appeared on the +hills, but on discovering the strength of our party had +retired.</p> + +<p>The next day our route lay through delicious fields of ripening +clover, in such profusion that the air was impregnated with its +agreeable perfume, to a small fort called Oorghundee, remarkable +chiefly for being the head-quarters of the oft-mentioned thieves, +of whom I daresay the reader is as tired as we were after the mere +dread they inspired had caused us to pass two sleepless nights. But +we were now determined to assume a high tone, and summoning the +chief of the fort, or, in other words, the biggest villain, into +our presence, we declared that in the event of our losing a single +article of our property or being annoyed by a night attack, we +would retaliate in the morning by cutting the surrounding crops and +setting fire to the fort!</p> + +<p>The military reader, especially if conversant with some of the +peculiarities of eastern discipline, will question how far we +should have been justified in carrying our threats into execution. +I can assure him we had no such intention; but be that as it may, +our threats had the desired effect, and at length we enjoyed an +uninterrupted night's rest.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 16th we proceeded to Koteah Shroof, the +whole distance being about ten miles: but the first three brought +us to the extremity of the beautiful valley through which we had +been travelling ever since we left Cabul. The aspect of the country +in the immediate vicinity of our path has been well described by +one of the most lamented victims to Affghan ingratitude and +treachery. "If the reader can imagine," writes Sir Alexander +Burnes, "a plain about twenty miles in circumference, laid out with +gardens and fields in pleasing irregularity, intersected by three +rivulets which wind through it by a serpentine course, and dotted +with innumerable little forts and villages, he will have before him +one of the meadows of Cabul." To complete the picture the reader +must conceive the grey barren hills, which, contrasting strongly +with the fertility of the plains they encompass, are themselves +overlooked by the eternal snows of the Indian Caucasus. To the +English exile these valleys have another attraction, for in the hot +plains of Hindoostan artificial grasses are rarely to be found, and +the rich scent of luxuriant clover forcibly reminds the wanderer of +the sweet-smelling fields of his native land.</p> + +<p>But these pleasing associations were soon dispelled by the steep +and rugged features of the pass through which we ascended on +leaving the plain. It is called the Suffaed Kāk or White +Earth, and we found by the barometer, that the gorge of the ravine +was about a thousand feet above our last encamping ground. The +hills on either side were ragged and abrupt, but of insignificant +height: the length of the pass itself was about two miles, and from +its head to Koteah Shroof the road was stony and difficult; but, as +we had been careful at starting not to overload our baggage +animals, they got through their work without being much +distressed.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="III">III.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>I find it difficult to convey to the reader an adequate +conception of the strange character of the hilly country we had now +entered: no parts of Wales or even the varied groupings of the +Swiss mountains offer a correct analogy. After passing the defile +of the Suffaed Kāk the hills recede to a distance of about two +miles on either side of the road, and the whole space thus offered +to the labours of the peasant is very highly cultivated; but the +barren rocks soon hem in the narrow valley, and as you approach +nearer and nearer you find your enchanting gardens transformed into +a dreary and desolate defile,––this succession of small +plots of fertile ground, alternating with short rugged passes, +extends to Julrez, ten miles beyond Koteah Shroof; which latter +place is an insignificant fort, situated in the centre of one of +the little green spots so pleasingly varying this part of the +country.</p> + +<p>At Koteah Shroof we gained the banks of the Cabul river, a +placid flowing stream, and as the neighbourhood of our camp did not +offer any features of peculiar interest, I determined to try my +luck in fishing; but first I had to tax my ingenuity for +implements, as I had neither rod, line, nor net. A willow stick and +a bit of string was all I could command; and yet my primitive +apparatus was very successful, for the fish also were primitive, +affording me ample sport and taking the bait with extraordinary +eagerness. My occupation attracted the attention of a few peasants +who gathered round me, and stood wondering what potent charm +attached to the string could entice the fish from their native +element. I endeavoured to explain the marvel, but was utterly +unsuccessful; indeed, the peasants did not accept my explanation, +which they evidently considered as a fabrication invented to +deceive them and conceal my supernatural powers. The inhabitants of +these valleys seemed a simple and inoffensive race, and, as in +Europe, their respectful demeanour became more conspicuous as we +increased our distance from the capital.</p> + +<p>With regard to the state of cultivation of this +valley––in which it resembles others generally +throughout Affghanistan––wherever there is soil enough +to hold the seed, the Affghān husbandman appears to make the +most of it. We found here and there in profusion the pear, apple, +cherry, mulberry, and luxuriant vine, and in some situations wheat, +with an under-crop of clover.</p> + +<p>On the 17th we proceeded to Julrez, a collection of wretched +hovels of no interest, and on the 18th, after a march of ten miles +through a succession of valleys and defiles, we reached the +Kuzzilbash fort, Suffaed Kulla. About two miles before we arrived +at our encamping ground we passed near the Sir-e-chusm or "fountain +head," one of the sources of the Cabul river; it is a large pool +stocked with a multitude of enormous fish that are held sacred by +the few inhabitants of the adjoining hamlets, and which are daily +fed by an aged fanatic, who for many years has devoted himself to +their protection. As it would be deemed in the highest degree +sacrilegious to eat any of these monsters, they are never molested, +and are so tame as to come readily to the hand when offered food. +Of course, my necessary compliance with the prejudices of the +guardian of the fish prevented the exercise of my Waltonian +propensities.</p> + +<p>A little further on is a remarkable bourj or <i>watch-tower</i> +isolated on a projecting rock, and supposed to have been built for +the purpose of giving the chiefs of the little plain below, when at +variance with the neighbouring mountaineers, notice of the +approaching invader. At this point the valley is extremely narrow, +being almost choked up with huge masses of rock hurled by the +violence of some convulsion of nature from the sides of the +impending precipices.</p> + +<p>There are several minor forts in the vicinity of Suffaed Kulla, +which is the largest, and is at present occupied by a Kuzzilbash +chief, who took advantage a few years ago of the temporary absence +of its rightful owner, and acting upon the principle of "might +makes right," possessed himself forcibly of it, and has held it +ever since. He treated us with great kindness and attention, +sending us most acceptable presents of fruit, with food for our +followers and cattle.</p> + +<p>We here experienced to a great degree that remarkable daily +variation of temperature so peculiar to these regions: in the gully +the wind was bleak and cold, but when encamped under the shelter of +the fort the heat from the sun's rays reflected from the smooth +surface of the bare rock was so intense that the thermometer rose +to 100 of Fahrenheit. While in camp at Cabul I frequently +experienced the same rapid change, for it would sometimes be a hard +frost at day-break and an Indian summer heat at mid-day.</p> + +<p>On the 19th of June we started very early, as the tremendous +Oonnye pass rising to the height of 11,400 feet lay before us, and +we had a full ten miles march ere we could reach our proposed +halting place at the village of Uart. We soon entered the mouth of +the pass, which was girt on either side by magnificent precipices; +the road was narrow and slippery––of course without +even an apology for a parapet––running along a natural +ledge on the verge of a perpendicular cliff, and so <i>sheer</i> +was the side, that from a horse's back you might sometimes have +dropped a stone into the apparently bottomless +ravine––bottomless, for the rays of a noon-day sun have +never broken the eternal darkness of the awful chasm beneath. Had +horse, camel, or man missed their footing whilst scrambling up the +steep and stony pathway, nothing could have saved them from being +dashed to pieces. Frequently, when rounding some projecting crag, +the small treasure-box fastened on the camel literally overhung the +abyss, and I held my breath and the pulsations of my heart +increased as I watched horse after horse and camel after camel +weather the critical point.</p> + +<p>Before we reached Uart a poor woman of the Huzareh tribe (the +most persecuted and enslaved throughout these regions) came and +complained to us that her child had been seized by a band of +plunderers, as she supposed, to be sold into slavery. Sturt +immediately despatched a couple of the guard to recover her child +if possible, and the poor woman went off with the two soldiers in +the full confidence that her escort would be successful. I own that +I myself was not so sanguine, but I had yet to learn how much even +in these wild mountains the British name was respected. The +mother's hopes were realized, and in the course of the day the +child was recovered, having been instantly surrendered on the +requisition being made; but I was surprised to see instead of a +helpless child a fine handsome well-knit young man. The gratitude +of the poor woman was sincere; she had nothing, she said, to offer +in return, but prayed that every blessing might descend upon us and +our most distant relations; that we might all become great kings; +and that finally we might be successful in conquering the country +we were proceeding to invade: vain were our endeavours to set +before her in their true light the object of our expedition.</p> + +<p>We arrived rather late at Uart after a hard day's work, and were +not much gratified by the aspect of our camp, which was +disagreeable, from its great elevation and its situation on a bleak +table-land, thinly covered with a short grass, with the strong +winds of the Hindoo Khoosh sweeping across it.</p> + +<p>Here a young woman came to our tent asking permission to avail +herself of our protection, as she was proceeding to the frontiers +of Toorkisthān to purchase slave girls for the Cabul market. +She accompanied us to Bameeān, and there remained. I heard +afterwards that she did not succeed according to her anticipations, +and that on her return to Cabul she died of fever. Our English +ideas of slavery drawn from our knowledge of the varied sufferings +endured by the thousands who are annually exported from the western +shores of Africa, are opposite to those entertained in the east +even by the victims themselves. The Asiatic and African slave are +alike in name alone; the treatment of the latter in those parts of +America where, spite of the progress of civilization and the +advancement of true principles of philanthropy over the world, +slavery is still tolerated and encouraged, has been too well and +too often described for me to venture a word of my own opinion, but +in Asia, in many cases, the loss of liberty is hardly felt.</p> + +<p>The situation of the domestic slave of Egypt (though, strictly +speaking, he must be classed under the head of "African") is +analogous to that observable generally in the east; and I form my +opinion partly from an anecdote related to me by my friend Captain +Westmacott, of the 37th Native Infantry, who was killed in the +retreat from Cabul, which I will venture to repeat as an +illustration. He was proceeding by the overland route from England +to India, and remained some time in Egypt to view its splendid +antiquities. On making inquiries with the object of procuring +servants, he was informed that he had better purchase slaves. The +civilized notions of my friend revolted at the idea, but he was +assured that it was a method very generally adopted, as he would +find it extremely difficult to hire servants, and if successful, +they would prove the veriest rascals on the face of the earth. He +reluctantly consented, and had them purchased. On his departure for +India he summoned his slaves, and informed them that as they had +behaved themselves well he would give them their freedom. They +looked astounded and burst into tears, reminding him that instead +of being kind to them he had shewn cruelty, "for where," said they, +"shall we go now? Who will have anything to say to us? We shall +starve and die; but if your highness will sell us again, we shall +be well fed and clothed." I confess I do not see why the servants, +if they really were so anxious to return to slavery, should not +have sold themselves, and pocketed their own value. Throughout +Afghanistān a slave is treated as an humble friend, and is +generally found to be faithful and trustworthy.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="IV">IV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>After surmounting the Oonnye Pass, which is one of the principal +defiles of the Hindoo Khoosh, we proceeded on the 20th to +Gurdundewāl, a distance from Uart of about six and a half +miles. The road was a gradual descent, and very rugged, leading +along the bases of barren rocks, till we debouched upon the river +Elbon, as it is termed by the natives, but the Helmund or Etymander +of the ancients. Even here, where the stream was in its infancy, +the current was so strong, that while we were fording it, one of +our baggage ponies laden with a tent was carried away by its +violence, and, but for the gallant exertions of our tent-pitcher, +we should have had to sleep in the open air for the rest of our +journey; as it fortunately happened, both animal and load were +recovered; and when properly dried, neither one nor the other were +a bit the worse for their washing. On the 21st we encamped near the +village of Kazee, after a march of nine miles along the right bank +of the Helmund, which here flows in a south-westerly direction; we +could procure no supplies whatever, either for man or beast, which +was the more vexatious as we had a very hard day's work in prospect +for the morrow, and were anxious to recruit ourselves and cattle +before attempting it. We managed well enough in spite of our +compulsory fast, and on the 22d we reached Kalloo, a distance of +twelve miles, after crossing the steep and difficult pass of +Hadjekuk, 12,400 feet high; as we approached the summit we found +ourselves amongst the snow, and experienced some little +inconvenience from a difficulty of respiration; though this pass +was even higher than that of Oonnye, it does not possess the same +abruptness and boldness of feature which render the latter so +interesting and dangerous. The hills near the gorge were so +strongly impregnated with iron as sensibly to affect the needle of +the theodolite.</p> + +<p>Throughout this country, and especially amongst the Uzbegs, +there is a fortified wall in the form of a square surrounding each +village, with small bastions or towers at the angles. Plunder is so +much the order of the day, or rather of the night, that, as a +protection, the cattle and every living animal are shut up in these +places at sunset; the wicket is locked and barred, and if the +villagers happen to have a feud with any of their neighbours, which +generally is the case, a watchman is stationed on each bastion. +Truly of this land it may be said, that "what one sows another +reaps," for frequently a chief forming a "chuppäo" or +plundering party against his neighbour, if unsuccessful in seizing +men to sell for slaves or cattle for use, reaps and carries off the +corn. These chuppäos are considered among the predatory tribes +very exciting affairs, as affording opportunities for the young +warriors to flesh their maiden swords; but it seldom happens that +these encounters are very bloody, as, in the event of one party +shewing a determined front, the other generally retreats. The +unfortunate Huzareh tribe are constantly the sufferers, and the +traveller will recognize more slaves of that than of any other +"clan."</p> + +<p>We were now in the vicinity of the Koh-i-baba, a mountain whose +granite peaks still towered six thousand feet above us, though our +own camp was at least nine thousand above the level of the sea. We +determined upon ascending it the following morning, but at first +experienced considerable difficulty in procuring guides, not from +the natives being either unqualified or unwilling to undertake the +task, for they were chiefly hunters, and familiar with the paths +they had themselves formed in pursuit of game, but they could not +conceive why <i>we</i> should be anxious to climb the difficult +height, and therefore were obstinately stupid in refusing to +understand the purpose for which we required their services. At +length we obtained a guide, and started next morning at half-past +five: with considerable fatigue and some little risk we reached the +summit after three hours walking, but the magnificent view amply +rewarded us for our trouble. The peaks about us were capped with +eternal snow; those below were rugged and black. The comparison of +the view from the top of a lofty mountain in a hilly country with +that of the sea in a storm is old perhaps, but only the truer for +that very reason. It was, indeed, as if the hand of God had +suddenly arrested and turned to stone varied and fantastic forms of +the dark tumultuous waves.</p> + +<p>The solemn stillness of these lofty regions was a striking +contrast with the busy plains below. The mountains abound in wild +sheep, which the hardy hunter pursues for days together, taking +with him a slender stock of food, and wrapping his blanket about +him at night, when he seeks his resting-place amongst the crevices +of these barren rocks. It is seldom that he returns empty-handed if +he takes up a good position over-night, for the flocks of wild +sheep descend from the least accessible parts at the earliest dawn +in search of pasture, and one generally falls a victim to the +unerring bullet of the rested Juzzyl. The distant view of the +barrier range was beautiful beyond description, for, though the +peak on which we stood was the highest for many miles around us, +the lofty peaks of the Indian Caucasus were many thousand feet +above us. We were now beyond the range of the wild sheep, and not a +living creature was to be seen save a majestic eagle, who, deeming +<i>us</i> intruders where he was lord of all, sailed up along the +sides of the precipitous ravines, sweeping about our heads as he +soared upwards, then again wheeling downwards near and nearer, till +at length I fancied him within range; but so deceptive was the +distance or so defective my aim that he continued unruffled in his +course, whilst the sharp crack of the rifle echoed and re-echoed +from crag to crag. After satiating our gaze with these wild +splendours of creation, a most unsentimental craving of the inward +man warned us to descend, and we returned to Kalloo by eleven +o'clock to do ample justice to our breakfasts.</p> + +<p>We left Kalloo on the 24th, ascending by a rugged broken track +to the highest point of the pass, where we came upon a fort +surrounded by a small belt of cultivation divided into fields by +hedgerows abounding with wild roses. I could hardly have imagined +the road practicable for camels, but the cautious though unwieldy +animals eventually succeeded in surmounting all difficulties, and +arrived late at our encampment near a village called Topechee, the +whole distance being ten miles and a half. From the crest of the +pass to Topechee was a gradual descent, the road bordering a +tremendous fissure, deep and gloomy, along the bottom of which a +pelting torrent forced its way. The variegated strata on the +mountain side, forming distinct lines of red, yellow, blue, and +brown, were very remarkable, and I much regret that I had not time +to devote to them most strict examination in a geological point of +view.</p> + +<p>On the 25th we started for Bameeān, passing by another +Topechee a few miles further on, which is famous for its trout +stream. Very few of these fish are found in the country, and only +in the streams within a few miles of this spot. They are +red-spotted and well-flavoured, and, as the natives do not indulge +in the angler's art, they will rise at any kind of fly and gorge +any bait offered. While halting a few minutes at lower Topechee we +fell in with an Uzbeg warrior, a most formidable looking personage, +armed, in addition to the usual weapons of his country, with a huge +bell-mouthed blunderbuss at least three inches in diameter; the +individual himself was peaceably enough disposed, and, contrary to +the usual habit of Asiatics, made no objections to our examining +the small cannon he carried. On inspecting the deadly instrument we +discovered it to be loaded to the very muzzle, a mixture of +pebbles, slugs, and bits of iron being crammed into the barrel over +a charge of a couple of ounces of powder. On our inquiring why it +was so heavily charged, the man told us with much naiveté, +that it was to kill <i>nine</i> men, illustrating the method by +which this wholesale destruction was to be accomplished, by +planting the butt on his hip and whirling the muzzle from right to +left in a horizontal direction across us all, and telling us very +pleasantly that if he were to fire we should all fall from the +scattering of the different ingredients contained in the +blunderbuss; had we not an instant before drawn the charge from +which the fellow anticipated such dire effects, we might have felt +rather uncomfortable at our relative positions; but I doubt whether +the owner had ever had occasion to try the efficacy of his boasted +manoeuvre, as he would probably at the first discharge have been +killed himself either by the recoil or the bursting of the +defective and honey-combed barrel.</p> + +<p>The approach to Bameeān was very singular; the whole face +of the hills on either hand was burrowed all over with caves like a +huge rabbit-warren. I am informed that these caves are the work of +nature, "yet worked, as it were planned," and are occupied +occasionally by travellers both in summer and winter; they are +observable in many places in Toorkisthān, and, when situated +high up on the face of the hill, afford a safe retreat for the +hunter. The road was tolerably good for the last three miles, +running along a narrow valley sprinkled with numerous forts, which +are generally occupied by the Huzareh tribes, an ill-featured but +athletic race.</p> + +<p>I shall not detain the reader by any description either of the +wonderful ruins of the ancient city of Goolgoolla or of the +gigantic images of Bameeān, these curiosities having been ably +described in Masson's very interesting work; but I was a good deal +amused by the various legends with which the natives are familiar, +of one of which, relating to a chalybeate spring in the +neighbourhood called the "Dragon's Mouth," I shall take the liberty +to offer a free version. It was related to me by an old gentleman +who brought a few coins to sell, and I listened to him with some +patience; but in proportion as the old fellow observed my passive +attention did he increase in verbosity and pompous description. I +still waited for the <i>point</i> of the story, but my friend, +after exhausting his powers of speech and metaphor, was fain to +wind up his tale with a most lame and impotent conclusion. I now +give it to the reader, not from a wish to punish him as I was +punished, but because from the prolixity of the narrator he +necessarily most minutely described scenes and customs, which, +though they had nothing on earth to do with the "Dragon's Mouth," +may prove interesting to the reader, as illustrating the +peculiarities of the people amongst whom we were now +sojourning.</p> + +<p><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="V">V.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<h4>"A TALE OF THE DRAGON'S MOUTH."</h4> + +<br /> + + +<p>In the reign of Ameer Dost Mahommed Khān, when all the pomp +and pride of glorious war was in its zenith at Cābul, there +lived on the borders of Kulloom and Kundooz, a chieftain named Khan +Shereef, whose grandfather had accompanied the illustrious Nadir +Shah from Persia in his expedition through Affghanistān, and +followed the fortunes of his royal master, even to the very gates +of the imperial Delhi. On his return towards Persia, he had for a +time intended to settle in Cābul, but "death, who assaults the +walled fort of the chieftain as well as the defenceless hovel of +the peasant," seized him for his own; the father also paid the debt +of nature in the capital of Affghanistān, but not before the +young Khan Shereef had seen the light. Growing up to manhood and +wearying of the monotonous life a residence in Cābul entailed, +he pursued his way across the frontier mountains of +Toorkisthān, and arrived at the court of Meer Moorad Beg. Here +he performed good service in the field, and becoming his master's +personal friend and favourite, had a fort and a small portion of +territory assigned to him. It was at the court of the Kundooz ruler +that he first became acquainted with Zebah, the lovely rose of +Cashmere, whom he eventually purchased from her father for his +wife.[*] He started with his bride to take possession of his +newly-acquired gift, an insulated fortress in the heart of a +country abounding in those extensive prairies for which +Toorkisthān is so justly celebrated. On these magnificent +savannahs he reared the Toorkman steed, and soon boasted an +unrivalled stud.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: It is customary in this country as +well as in other parts of Asia to purchase the young women who may +be selected for wives of their relations, the purchase money +varying according to the degrees of beauty.] Towards the close of +the first year he became a father, an event which was hailed with +extravagant joy by all his vassals, the old retainers of his father +foretelling the future achievements in the foray of the young +Abdoollah Reheem.</p> + +<p>A few months had scarcely elapsed, when the anxious mother spied +an old crone moving about in the court-yard; their eyes happening +to meet, Zebah screamed and fell into a swoon. The young heir was +instantly hurried away, but not before the old hag had cast a +withering glance on the boy's beautiful face; every one was now +fully convinced that he had been struck by the "evil eye," which +was but too clearly proved by the event, for from that day he +sickened and pined away till reduced to a mere skeleton.</p> + +<p>Large sums of money were expended by the fond parents in the +endeavour to discover a charm to counteract the effects of the +"evil eye," till at length in an auspicious moment it was proposed +the boy should try the efficacy of the celebrated water of the +"Dragon's Mouth," which is situated at the head of the enchanting +vale of Bameeān, just beyond the western limits of +Toorkisthān. The slave girl who proposed this scheme related +numerous and wonderful cures effected by the magic waters, and +enumerated many hundred individuals, the lame, the blind, the +infirm, the rheumatic, and those afflicted with <i>bad temper</i>, +who had been perfectly cured by either drinking of the water or +being immersed in the fountain itself. She would not be positive +which mode was the best, but certain she was that the cure was +perfect and permanent; she herself had been ugly and +cross-tempered, and now she left her audience to judge of her +character and appearance. This last proof at once determined the +mother to adopt a plan, which after so many unsuccessful attempts +she could not but consider as her last resource.</p> + +<p>Khan Shereef was not quite so credulous, but what chance has a +man alone against his united harem! He was so far influenced by the +earnest entreaties of his disconsolate wife, that it was determined +in three days he should with a strong cavalcade accompany his +darling invalid to the charmed waters of Bameeān. The +Toorkmān warriors were too religious to doubt the fortunate +results of the experiment, and accordingly for the few days which +elapsed previous to the setting forth of the expedition the fort +was a scene of active preparation. Armour was burnished, swords +brightened and fresh ground, juzzyls cleaned and matches got ready, +so that they might produce as imposing an effect as possible, not +only on the presiding spirit of the fountain, and the very +questionable friends through whose territories they were about to +pass, but also that they might do due honour to their lord and +master.</p> + +<p>But before proceeding with my history, I must not omit a more +minute description of Khan Shereefs fort. I have already described +its locality on the borders of Toorkisthān. It was situated at +the base of a low conical hill, on the summit of which a look-out +tower had been erected; this building was in troublesome times +occupied by a party of Juzzylchees, who took their station in it, +and, fixing their cumbrous pieces on the parapet, watched the +approach of any hostile party, and from their commanding and +protected position would be enabled to keep in check an enemy +attempting to ascend the opposite side of the hill. As the nearest +stream of water was full two miles from the fort, the present +owner, being a man full of science and mathematical knowledge, had +with unparalleled ingenuity sunk a deep and substantial well inside +his walls, thus rendering his position infinitely more tenable than +if his water-carriers had been daily obliged, as is the case in +most places, to run the gauntlet of the enemy's fire whilst +procuring the requisite supply of that indispensable article.</p> + +<p>The fort itself was an oblong square, and required three hundred +men to man its walls; it was built of mud, with a large bastion at +each angle three and four stories high, and loopholed. It had but +one gate, on which the nature of the defences afforded means for +concentrating a heavy fire. Immediately facing the gate, and +detached from buildings of inferior importance, was the Khan's own +residence, and some low flat-roofed houses lining the inside of the +whole extent of walls, which afforded a secure shelter to the +vassals. The audience-chamber or public sitting-room was so +situated that the Khān could survey the whole of the interior +of his fort whilst squatting on his Persian carpet or reclining on +the large soft pillow, which is an indispensable luxury for a +grandee of the rank and importance of Khān Shereef.</p> + +<p>The sides of the apartment consisted of a lattice-work of wood +reaching nearly to the ceiling, and connecting the mud pillars +which supported the roof; the framework was richly carved, and on +slides, so as to enable the owner to increase or diminish the +quantity of light and air at his pleasure.</p> + +<p>Between the Khān's dwelling and the gate was the mosque, +whose minarets towered above the walls and bastions of the +fort,––its dome was beautifully proportioned, and +inlaid with agate, jasper, and carnelian, besides being wonderfully +painted with representations of strange animals unknown to the +common people, but which the Moollah affirmed were all taken from +the life.</p> + +<p>At this time the base of the mosque was occupied by a party of +men smoking and passing the Kaleeān to each other; amongst +them was one, evidently superior to the rest in age and wisdom, for +his opinion was frequently appealed to by all and listened to with +much deference. When not called upon to interfere he sat quiet and +reserved, and to judge by his countenance was in a melancholy mood. +His name was Rhejjub;––he was the oldest retainer of +the family, and to him in all cases of emergency did the Khān +apply for advice, which had never been given without due +deliberation and almost prophetic foresight. He had only that +morning been deputed to remain and guard the fort during the +absence of his master, and although he knew it to be a post of +honor and trust, yet he could not but consider it an effeminate +duty to be left guardian of the Koch-khanah or <i>family</i>, and +superintendent of the <i>un</i>chosen of the band. With him, "to +hear was to obey," still he envied those who had been selected to +accompany their lord. Old Rhejjub had been a great traveller in his +day; had wandered over many portions of Arabia, and visited the +holy city of Mecca; thus gaining the valuable privileges of a Suyud +or <i>holy man</i>, which title alone was a passport and safeguard +amongst even the lawless Ghilgyes and Khyberrēes of +Affghanistān, it being a greater crime for a man to kill a +Suyud than even his own father. Thus, whenever a Chuppao or other +warlike expedition was in contemplation, Rhejjub was invariably +despatched to reconnoitre and obtain information, and being a man +of a shrewd turn of mind, and calculating all chances during his +homeward journey, was always prepared after detailing his news to +give a sound opinion as to the best plan to be pursued.</p> + +<p>At early dawn of the proposed day of departure the whole party +were summoned by the Muezzin's call to offer up prayers for their +safe arrival at the "Dragon's Mouth," for the effectual cure of the +young Abdoollah, and his happy return to his fond mother. Before +mounting, was performed the ceremony of taking from its resting +place the famous sword given to the Khān's grandfather by +Nadir Shah himself. The blade was of Damascus steel, and valued +alone at one hundred tomauns;[*] the ivory handle was ornamented +with precious stones, and the pommel was one large emerald of great +beauty and value. The scabbard was of shagreen finely embroidered +in gold. This precious weapon the Suyud had the enviable office of +presenting to his chief unsheathed, whilst the aged Moollah who +stood by read aloud the inlaid Arabic inscription on the blade, +"May this always prove as true a friend to thee as it has been to +the donor." The Khān received the valued heir-loom with all +due respect, and kissing the weapon sheathed and fixed it firmly to +his belt.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Tomaun, twenty rupees or about +£2.]</p> + +<p>All necessary preparations for the departure being now +completed, the camel destined for the accommodation of the invalid +was brought to the door of the palace, conducted by a favourite +Arab who had for many years filled the office of head Surwan or +<i>camel-driver</i>. The colour of the animal was almost white, and +the large gold embroidered housings swept the ground; on either +side was fixed a wicker-basket lined and covered with red cloth, +and furnished with soft cushions; one of these held the young +Khān, whilst the other was occupied by the nurse who was the +original promoter of the expedition. At length the word to march +was given, and the escort consisting of sixty horsemen galloped +forth. Khan Shereef himself was clad in a coat of mail, and wore a +circular steel head-piece, in which were three receptacles for as +many heron plumes; a light matchlock, the barrel of which, inlaid +with gold, was slung across his shoulder; attached to his +sword-belt were the usual priming and loading powder-flasks made of +buffalo's hide, with tobacco-pouch and bullet-holder of Russia +leather worked with gold thread; and the equipment was completed by +the Affghān boots drawn up over the loose trousers reaching to +the knee, with sharp-pointed heels serving for spurs.</p> + +<p>The procession moved on, the escort forming an advance and +rear-guard, the chief galloping sometimes in front of the party, +and now walking his Toorkmān steed alongside the richly +caparisoned camel with its precious burthen.</p> + +<p>Occasionally a horseman would dash out from the ranks in chace +of a wild goat or sheep crossing the little frequented road, or, +dismounting and giving his horse in charge of a comrade, would make +a detour on foot in the hope of getting a shot at a chichore.[*] +The tedious hours of march were thus wiled away till they reached +the "Dundun Shikkun Kotul" or <i>tooth-breaking</i> pass, when the +horsemen assumed a more steady demeanour. They were now within +forty miles of the celebrated spring, which they hoped to reach on +the following day.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: This is a species of partridge very +abundant throughout Toorkistan.]</p> + +<p>The Dragon's Mouth is situated four or five miles to the +north-west of Bameeān, high up in the mountains in the +direction of the Yookaoolung country. After a toilsome and somewhat +perilous ascent the traveller finds himself at the edge of a deep +ravine––or rather fissure in the rock, for the width at +the top is seldom more than twelve feet––the sides +presenting a ferruginous appearance, with tints varying from +extremely dark to lighter shades, by reason of the soil being so +strongly impregnated with ore. The low gurgling of the +wonder-working stream might be heard issuing from the depths of the +dark abysm.</p> + +<p>Below, and at the only point of feasible approach for the +disease-stricken, is a large cave, where the water bubbles up warm, +and forming innumerable small whirlpools before it breaks again +into a stream, and mingles its waters with those of a torrent +below.</p> + +<p>Here, at the base of a large fragment of rock, almost entirely +covered with Arabic inscriptions and quotations from the Korān +alluding to the healing powers of the well and the mercy of God, +Khan Shereef and his now dismounted followers offered up prayers +for success. Suddenly a huge mass of rock detaching itself from the +mountain side thundered down the steep; it was hailed by all as a +good omen, and the Moollah declaring that "now or never" was the +auspicious moment, the child was taken from the arms of the now +trembling nurse and immersed in the turbid waters. Hope elevated +the breasts of the father and of the attendants, nor was that +feeling fallacious, for on the following morning the invalid was +pronounced decidedly better, and was again taken to the cavern, and +again, with sanguine prayers and invocations, dipped into the +pool.</p> + +<p>Khan Shereef, feeling assured that he could now do no more, and +trusting to the goodness of Providence, ordered a retrograde +movement, and in a few days arrived at his castle with the infant +nearly restored to health. A few years after the young Abdoollah +was a healthy active boy, indulging in the sports of the field, and +anxiously awaiting the time when he should be of sufficient age to +join in the more exciting scenes of the chuppao. The old nurse, the +proposer of the successful scheme, was highly honoured, and became +chief attendant in the seraglio, which office she holds to this +day.</p> + +<p>"And now," concluded the old gentleman, "if my lord will choose +to purchase these beautiful coins, he shall have them for whatever +price his generosity may think fit to put upon them."</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VI">VI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>The force stationed at Bameeān consisted, at the time we +were there, of a troop of native horse artillery and a regiment of +Goorkahs in the service of Shah Seujah.</p> + +<p>On our arrival, Dr. Lord, the political agent, sent us a polite +note of invitation to pitch our tents near his fort, and (we) +become his guests during our stay; we remained with him till the +29th, and were much gratified by his kind attention.</p> + +<p>The quiet demeanour of the natives here was very remarkable, and +as we can hardly attribute the circumstance to an inherent pacific +disposition, we must the more appreciate the wonderful address +displayed by the political agent in his dealings with the various +parties, who in these remote mountains, as well as in more +civilised countries, are ever ready to quarrel with each other, and +only suspend their animosity when a common powerful enemy is to be +resisted or a helpless stranger to be plundered. As it was, we +reaped considerable benefit from the favourable impression made on +the peasants by the authorities, for we were enabled to go out +shooting, alone, and even wander unarmed amongst the hills without +experiencing the slightest insult or incivility.</p> + +<p>Indeed, at the period of which I am writing, there seemed to +have been a pause in the wild passions of the Affghāns +throughout the country, which was perhaps one of the fatal causes +which lulled us into that dangerous feeling of security, from +whence we were awoke by the most dreadful disaster that has ever +befallen the British arms. Poor Dr. Lord was killed at Purwan +Durrah during the short campaign in the Kohistan under Sir Robert +Sale; and the other British officer, Dr. Grant, who was the medical +attaché to the mission, disappeared during the retreat from +Charrikār in 1841, and has never been heard of since.</p> + +<p>On the 29th June we left Bameeān for Surruk Durrah (red +valley), which is situated at the mouth of the gorge; it is a place +of no importance, but the face of the impending hills has a most +extraordinary appearance from the fanciful shapes of the harder +rocks which jut out from the clayey sides of the mountains.</p> + +<p>Here it was that Colonel Dennie, of the 13th, who afterwards +fell at Jellālabad, with a small force of a few hundred men, +completely routed the Ex-Ameer Dost Mahommed Khān, who was +accompanied by all the principal Uzbeg chiefs and the famous Meer +Walli of Kulloom.</p> + +<p>A report reached the gallant Colonel in the morning, that the +enemy had taken up a position at the head of the Bameeān +valley; he immediately ordered a reconnoitring party to proceed in +that direction, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there was +any foundation for the alarm, and accompanied them himself; he was +rather astonished on perceiving the enemy debouching from the hills +in great force; the odds were fearfully against him in numbers, +but, like a good soldier, he at once decided upon attacking without +delay. He immediately opened a fire on them from his two guns, +under the able superintendence of Lieut. McKenzie, and then dashing +forward, drove them back with great slaughter into the narrow +gorge, from whence they again attempted to advance, but were again +beaten back, till at length they lost courage and broke away in +every direction.</p> + +<p>On the 30th we marched to Akrobād, a distance of ten miles. +On leaving Surruk Durrah we entered the narrow gorge before alluded +to; it is five miles long, and has precipitous sides, at the bottom +of which rushed a foaming torrent: the formation of the hills was +slate with a superstratum of limestone. On emerging from the +Akrobād Pass, where there was not a breath to disturb the +meagre foliage, we were suddenly surprized by a bleak piercing +wind, which we were told invariably blew across the table land on +which the fort is built. Although in the height of summer, the wind +was intensely cold, and we were glad to take into wear the scanty +supply of winter clothing which we had brought with us in case of +emergency. Out of the stream running in front of the fort in less +than an hour I managed to take a few well-flavoured trout, which +swallowed my bait most greedily. From Surruk Durrah to Akrobād +the road was, comparatively speaking, good, it being under the +superintendence of Lieut. Broadfoot, who had been directed to make +it practicable for artillery as far as Syghān; he had made +good progress in his work, and at the period I write of, it was a +very fair military road as far as Akrobād. Poor Broadfoot was +slain in the gallant and desperate charge made by the officers of +the 2d Bengal Cavalry at Purwān Durrah, of which I hope in the +proper place to be able to give the reader a slight +description.</p> + +<p>The hills about Akrobād are so situated as to form a funnel +for all the winds of the snowy range, rendering the temperature of +the little table-land bitterly cold both in summer and +winter––so much so in winter, that the Huzāreh +inhabitants desert the fort in autumn for some more sheltered +locality, and return again with the spring.</p> + +<p>We now entered Toorkisthān, the pass of Akrobād +dividing it from Affghanistān. Should the traveller form his +opinion of the country beyond by the specimen now before us, he +would be loth indeed to proceed, for a more dismal corner can +hardly be conceived. The outline of the adjacent mountains was +dreary and uninviting, with very little cultivation in the valley, +which also bore a most desolate aspect––it was barren +and unpromising, without participating in the wild and grand +features which generally characterize these regions. Fuel was with +difficulty procured, and our camp was but scantily furnished with +even the most necessary supplies.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VII">VII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 1st of July we left this sad region, and pitched our +tents some five miles further onwards, in a pleasant meadow, where +we met a brother of Dost Mahommed, the well-known Sirdār +Jubber Khān, who arrived in the course of the day from the +interior of Toorkistān, and encamped close to us. He was then +on his way to Cabul, having in charge the women and children +belonging to the seraglio of the ex-king. He invited us to pay him +a visit, which we did in uniform, and found him an agreeable old +gentleman, with manners far more polished than the generality of +his countrymen, who, though not deficient in a certain national +savage grace, frequently shock our European notions of propriety by +their open disregard of what we are accustomed to consider the +decencies of society; but Jubber Khān seemed to have all the +good qualities and few of the vices so prevalent in the +Affghān character. No doubt that superior polish of manner was +derived from his more extensive intercourse with Europeans. During +our visit he presented us each with a small silver Mahommedan coin, +saying at the same time with peculiar grace and dignity that he was +now a poor man, and entirely dependent on the generosity of the +British; that the coin was of no intrinsic value, but still he +hoped we would remember the donor. Much as we respected the +character of our host, I could not but regret that he had not yet +picked up the English habit of sitting on a chair; for what with +tight pantaloons and a stiff uniform, I got so numbed by sitting +cross-legged like a tailor, that when the interview was over I +could not rise from my cramped position without assistance, much to +the amusement of Jubber Khān, whose oriental gravity was +entirely upset.</p> + +<p>I was informed that on being requested by the British +authorities to deliver up the family of his brother, he boldly +refused, stating that they were given into his charge, and that he +deemed it a sacred trust not to be betrayed by any consideration of +personal advantage. It will be gratifying to the reader to know +that this manly refusal did not operate to his prejudice in the +opinions of those to whom it was made. He subsequently obtained +from the Dost permission to comply with the demand, and was now on +his journey for that purpose; but though he professed to have every +confidence in our honour and generous kindness with regard to the +females, he appeared somewhat anxious as to the influence which his +previous refusal might have with reference to his own treatment. +Jubber Khān's name was in great repute amongst the +Affghāns, who, all wild and savage as they are, still have +sufficient feeling to admire in others those virtues which are so +rarely met with amongst themselves: he is considered an able +politician also, as well as the poor man's friend––high +and low find him equally easy of access, and he is the general +mediator in quarrels between the different chiefs, and the +principal counsellor in the national debates.</p> + +<p>Whilst encamped here the united seraglios of Dost Mahommed and +Jubber Khān passed in front of our tents, on their way to +Kābul. It was a very large procession, consisting of nearly +eighty camel loads of fair ones of every age and quality. Each +camel was furnished on either side with a large pannier, and in +each pannier was a lady––weight against weight. The +presence of Englishmen so much excited their curiosity that we were +enabled to enjoy a nearer and better view of the beauties than +strict decorum would have justified, and it may not perhaps be +uninteresting to my fair readers, if, turning to advantage this +slight impropriety, I here take the liberty of describing as much +as I could observe of the very remarkable travelling costume of the +female Affghān aristocracy. When in public the highborn +Affghān lady is so completely enveloped by her large veil +(literally sheet), that the person is entirely concealed from head +to foot; there are two eyelet holes in that part of the sheet which +covers the face, admitting air and light, and affording to the fair +one, herself unseen, a tolerable view of external objects. I trust +I may be permitted without indiscretion to remove this shroud and +give some slight description of the costume.</p> + +<p>Over a short white under-garment, whose name of Kammese[*] +sufficiently denotes its use, is a Peirān or jacket, which +amongst the higher classes is made of Bokhāra cloth, or not +unfrequently of Russian broad cloth, brought overland through +Bokhāra. This garment is generally of some glaring gaudy +colour, red or bright yellow, richly embroidered either in silk or +gold; it is very like the Turkish jacket, but the inner side of the +sleeve is open, and merely confined at the wrist with hooks and +eyes. A pair of loose trousers, gathered at the waist with a +running silken cord, and large at the ankle, forms a prominent +feature in the costume, and is made either of calico, shawl-cloth, +or Cachmere brocade, according to the finances of the wearer. +Instead of stockings they wear a kind of awkward-looking linen bag, +yellow or red, soled with thick cloth or felt, the top being edged +with shawl-cloth. The shoes are similar to the Turkish slipper, +with the usual Affghān high-pointed heels tipped with iron; +and as these articles must from their shape be an impediment to +walking, I presume that the real use to which they are generally +put must have given rise to the common expression in +Hindoostān for any punishment inflicted, the term being "jutte +mar," literally, beating with the shoe. The weapon put to this +purpose would be very formidable, and I have little doubt that the +beauties of the harem keep their lords in high discipline by merely +threatening with such an instrument.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Anglice, Chemise. It may fairly be +inferred that the name of this under-garment is derived from the +word mentioned in the text; and doubtless there are many words in +our own as well as in other modern languages that may equally be +traced to Asia; for instance, Sheittan, Satan.]</p> + +<p>On the head of the Affghān female is worn a small skull +cap, keeping in place the hair in front, which is parted, laid +flat, and stiffened with gum, while the rest hangs in long plaits +down the back.</p> + +<p>Next day we left for Syghān, and after a march of about +fifteen miles pitched our tents in the vicinity of the principal +fort. The whole journey was through a deep defile, except about +half-way, when we came upon a small but well cultivated plain, with +a fort in the centre. The contrast was pleasing after travelling so +many miles amidst the dark overhanging crags, threatening +destruction on the passer-by; but this relief was of short +duration, for after two miles it gradually contracted, and formed a +continuation of the defile down to the valley of Syghān.</p> + +<p>The fort is on a small hill detached from the main range, but +easily commanded, though it is said for ages to have been deemed +impregnable, till some chief more knowing than his neighbours hit +upon the very obvious expedient of lining the overhanging range +with Juzzylchees, and picking off every individual who ventured to +appear on the battlements. It is now in our possession, and +occupied by two companies of Sepoys; and though the place might be +seriously annoyed by musketry from the adjacent hills, still the +sides of those hills are so rocky and precipitous that cannon could +not be brought to bear from the summit without immense labour.</p> + +<p>These hills are composed of sandstone and indurated clay, in +which numerous fossils abound.</p> + +<p>The valley along which we proceeded produces many varieties of +fruit, and is rich in the cultivation of artificial grasses, +lucerne being the most abundant.</p> + +<p>On arriving at our encamping ground on the 3rd of July, about +four miles and a half beyond Syghān, a poor villager, a vassal +of Mahommed Ali Beg's, to whom the fort of Syghān belonged +previous to its cession to the British, came to complain that some +of our baggage animals had injured one of his fields by trampling +down his grain. Upon enquiry his story was found to be correct. +Mahommed Ali Beg happened to be paying us a visit when the man +presented himself, and wished to drive the poor fellow away to +prevent his troubling us; and great indeed was the wonder and +astonishment shewn by all the natives about us when Sturt desired +that the peasant should receive ten rupees as compensation for the +damage done to his crops.</p> + +<p>Loud were the praises bestowed upon our <i>extraordinary</i> +justice; and Mahommed Ali Beg, forgetting the line of conduct he +had but a moment before advocated, delivered the following +expression of his reformed opinion in a loud pompous tone, whilst +his followers listened, open-mouthed, to the eloquence of their now +scrupulous chief: "Although the Feringhis have invaded our country +they never commit any act of injustice;" then, having delivered +himself of this inconsistent speech, he lifted a straw from the +ground, and turning round to his audience, continued: "they don't +rob us even of the value of <i>that</i>; they pay for every thing, +even for the damage done by their followers." Corporal Trim's hat +falling to the ground was nothing to the effect produced by the +comparison of the straw; but, alas for human nature! I had but too +strong grounds for suspecting that, of the ten rupees awarded to +the peasant, seven were claimed by Ali for having induced the +Feringhis to listen to the claim!!</p> + +<p>The surrounding hills have here as at Surruk Durrah the +appearance of ruined castles, with donjon or keep and tower; they +forcibly reminded me of the "Castle of St. John," in Scott's Bridal +of Triermain, but my visions of Merlin and fair maidens awoken from +their charmed slumbers were destroyed by the sight of a little +purling brook which promised me a few hours angling. Nor was I +disappointed; for in a short time I (being unprovided with my +fishing basket) filled two towels full of fish, and congratulated +myself on my sport; however, to use an old phrase, "the proof of +the pudding is in the eating," and so we found it, for when brought +to table "my catch" fell far short of our epicurean anticipations, +and I almost regretted that I had not continued my dreams instead +of disturbing the finny tribe.</p> + +<p>A complaint was made to us in the course of the day, that an +Huzareh female, returning to her own country with one attendant, +had been seized and carried away to one of the adjacent forts, +where she was detained; and our interference was requested with a +view to obtaining her release. We were of course most anxious to +help the poor woman, especially as it appeared from what was +reported to us that there were not the slightest grounds for the +outrage, beyond the helplessness of her situation and the natural +cupidity of the robber chief of the fort; but, unfortunately, we +were travelling without credentials, the Envoy having declined to +furnish us, lest the inhabitants should fancy that we were vested +with any political power; and therefore we could not interfere, and +what became of her I know not, though we were afterwards told that +on her resigning her trinkets as her ransom she would be released. +Indeed the personal ornaments of the petty chiefs are generally the +point of some lawless proceeding like the one alluded to, as they +are seldom possessed of sufficient capital in specie to purchase +jewels, but exchange their grain and fruits for clothes and +precious stones. I have mentioned the above circumstance to give +the reader some notion of the lawless state of society, deeming it +out of keeping with the humble character of this simple narrative, +and perhaps beyond the ability of the writer, to enter more +minutely into the various causes which have contributed to bring +the country into so unhappy a state.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="VIII">VIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 4th July our route lay across the Dundun Shikkun. Kotul, +or "tooth-breaking pass," and a truly formidable one it is for +beasts of burden, especially the declivity on the northern side. +Very few venture upon the descent without dismounting, for the +surface of the rock is so smooth and slippery, that the animals can +with difficulty keep their legs even when led, and many teeth, both +of man and horse, have been broken before reaching the bottom.</p> + +<p>The valley of Kāmmurd lying at the foot of the northern +side of the pass has a very fertile appearance, and orchards of +different descriptions of fruit-trees are interspersed throughout +the cultivation. The fort of the principal chief, named +Uzzuttoollah Beg, from whom we received a visit, is high up the +valley, and there are two others of minor importance on either bank +of the river, lower down and together.</p> + +<p>Uzzuttoollah Beg was in appearance a very fine old man with an +imposing white beard; he was six feet high, large boned and +muscular, and by far the most powerful and stately looking +personage we had hitherto met; but he was a shrewd wicked old +fellow, and when the star of British prosperity began to wane, +proved himself a dangerous enemy. His own vassals, from whom he +exacted the strictest obedience, stood in great awe of him. He came +merely, he said, to pay his respects, to chat over political +affairs, and to inquire from us whether the English intended giving +up his valley to the Meer Walli of Koollum. We could give him no +information as to the intentions of Government. "Khoob (well,)" +answered he, "if such really be the case, the Meer Walli may seize +me if he is able, provided <i>you</i> keep aloof; the Meer has +tried that game before now, but did not succeed; on two separate +occasions he has visited my fort in an unceremonious manner, and +with hostile intent; but, gentlemen, there are two sides to a fort, +the inside and the out. I was in––the Meer was out, and +I kept him there; till, (suffering no other inconvenience myself +than the deprivation from riding for a few days,) by keeping up a +constant fire on his ragamuffins, I one fine day compelled him to +beat his retreat:" and so saying, he stroked his beard with much +complacency, evidently considering it and its owner the two +greatest wonders of the Toorkisthān world.</p> + +<p>It may be as well to remark here, that in these valleys as +throughout Affghanistān in general, the forts are made of mud, +the walls being of great strength and thickness; they are built +gradually, and it takes many months to erect a wall twenty feet +high, as each layer of mud is allowed to bake and harden in the sun +before the next is superimposed. Now, as none of the chiefs possess +cannon, except the Meer Walli and Moorad Beg of Koondooz, it is +almost impossible to gain an entry into a well-constructed fort, +except by treachery; and even the few honey-combed pieces of small +calibre possessed by the above chieftains would not have much +effect against the massive ramparts.</p> + +<p>But the Uzbegs have a method of undermining the bastion, by +turning the course of some convenient stream right under the very +base; this gradually softens the lower stratum of mud, and +diminishing its tenacity, the whole fabric comes tumbling down from +its own weight. They also have frequently recourse to mining, but +for either method to succeed the defenders cannot be on the +alert.</p> + +<p>A man who had been engaged in an operation of the latter kind, +by which the fort of Badjghār was once taken, explained to me +the plan adopted, which bears a rude analogy to the modern plan of +mining under the glacis to the foot of the counterscarp.</p> + +<p>To-day a horseman came into our camp at about 3 P.M. with +letters from Bameeān; he had left early in the morning, and +thus accomplished a journey of fifty miles with the same horse, +over two severe passes, and through a succession of difficult +defiles. On alighting, he tied his horse to the branch of a tree, +merely loosening the girths, but not intending to give him food +till the evening. The horses are habituated to the want of any +midday feeding, and at night and morning seldom get grain. But the +dried lucerne and other artificial grasses with which they are +supplied must afford them sufficient nourishment, as they are +generally in very good working condition; they are undersized, but +very sure-footed; it is indeed astonishing over what fearful ground +they will carry their riders. The yabboo is a different style of +animal, heavier built and slower; its pace is an amble, by means of +which it will get over an immense distance, but it is not so +sure-footed.</p> + +<p>I remarked that aged horses were very rarely met with, and on +inquiring the reason, was informed that the horses were all so +violently worked when young as soon to break down, after which they +are slaughtered and made into <i>kabobs</i>. I was assured that the +eating-shops of Cabul and Kandahār always require a great +supply of horseflesh, which is much liked by the natives, and when +well seasoned with spices is not to be distinguished from other +animal food.</p> + +<p>At this station fruit was in great profusion; I observed that +the sides of a barren hill near our camp were of a bright yellow +tint for upwards of a mile and a half, and on approaching to +discover the cause, I found the whole space covered with apricots +placed side by side to dry in the sun. I tasted some of them, which +had apparently only just been gathered, and found them very well +flavoured, though generally speaking I must allow that the fruits +of these valleys are inferior to those of Europe, with the +exception of the grape, which is unequalled. But the grape and +apricot are not the only fruits which flourish in this green spot +surrounded by barren rocks,––the walnut, the peach, +mulberry, apple, and cherry, also come to perfection in their +respective seasons.</p> + +<p>At sunset Uzzuttoollah Beg sent us a plentiful supply of fruit, +grain for our cattle, and flour for the servants, regretting at the +same time that he was not able to send us sheep enough for the +whole party. When he came to take leave, we told him we had +received more than we expected or required, and begged his +acceptance of a loonghee or <i>headdress</i> in remembrance of us. +He was much gratified with the trifle, it being of Peshawurree +muslin, a kind much sought after and prized by the Uzbegs. He +immediately took off his own turban, which was indeed rather the +worse for wear, and binding the new one round his head, declared +with a self-satisfied look, that "it would be exceedingly +becoming." He then arose, and probably to shew his knowledge of +European breeding, gave me such a manly shake of the hand as made +me expect to see the blood start from the tips of my fingers. I am +not sure, with all due respect for the good old custom of shaking +hands, that I should not have preferred submitting to the Uzbeg +mode of salutation. On approaching an equal, the arms of both are +thrown transversely across the shoulders and body, like the +preparatory attitude of wrestlers in some parts of England, then, +placing breast to breast, the usual form of "salaam aleikoom" is +given in a slow measured tone. But on horseback the inferior +dismounts, and, according to the degree of rank, touches or +embraces the stirrup.</p> + +<p>The valley of Kammurd is of an oblong form flanked by stupendous +mountains; the enormous barrier of the Dundun Shikkun almost +precludes the possibility of bringing cannon from the south, +although one gun is known to have been dragged over by sheer manual +labour; it was brought by Dost Mahommed from Cabul to quell some +refractory chiefs, the carriage being taken to pieces, and the gun +fastened by ropes in the hollowed trunk of a tree.</p> + +<p>On the 5th of July we reached Piedbāgh, five miles further +down the valley, which gradually decreased in breadth, seldom +exceeding two hundred yards, and sometimes contracting to fifty. +Along the banks of a muddy river flowing through the centre of the +narrow vale, the sycamore tree was very luxuriant, and two or three +forts formed a chain of communication from one end of the +cultivated land to the other. Piedbāgh, as its name implies, +is a complete orchard, <i>piedan</i> meaning perpetual, and +bāgh, garden; from a distance it looks like a thick wood with +the turrets of the forts overtopping the dark foliage. We took +advantage of the quiet beauty of this spot to give our horses a +day's rest, and lucky it was for us we had at Bameeān +exchanged for stout yaboos the unwieldy camels which we had brought +from Cabul; the yaboos get over the ground twice as fast as the +camel, and for mountainous districts are infinitely preferable to +the "ship of the desert."</p> + +<p>It was lucky also that we had not burdened ourselves with +bedsteads or charpoys, as they are called in the East (literally +"<i>four feet</i>"); they would have inconvenienced us much; and we +should, probably, have been forced to abandon them on the road, the +pathways along the glens being often so narrow, and so encumbered +with the detritus from the overhanging mountains, as to make it +necessary to pack our baggage very compactly; inattention to this +important point in mountain travelling is sometimes followed by +very serious consequences, for the chair or bedstead, projecting +far beyond the centre of gravity of the unfortunate animal, catches +against a corner of rock, and both load and pony run imminent risk +of being hurled into the abyss below. We were now so inured to +sleeping on the ground, that had it not been for the multitudes of +fleas we should never have felt the want of a more elevated +sleeping place. The animal and vegetable character of Piedbāgh +may be stated in a few words––apricots and fleas are in +abundance, the former very large sized, and the latter healthy.</p> + +<p>In the course of my journal I hope to be able to relate the +circumstances of a very pretty little affair which occurred here, +some months after we passed through, between two companies of Shah +Soojah's Goorkah regiment and the inhabitants of the neighbouring +forts. The Goorkahs, upholding their well-known character, fought +desperately against an overwhelming force; they would have suffered +severely but for the able conduct of their leader, who was an +European non-commissioned officer and quarter-master sergeant of +the corps; his manoeuvring would have done credit to many an older +soldier.</p> + +<p>On the 7th July we quitted Piedbāgh for Badjghār, the +most westerly of our advanced posts; it was occupied at the period +of which I write by Captain Hay, and was the head-quarters of the +Goorkah battalion. The hills from a little above Piedbāgh +encroach so much upon the valley as to reduce it to little more +than a ravine forming two gigantic walls, that on the right being +inaccessible save to the wild goat, whilst the left-hand boundary, +though still precipitous, may be surmounted by active light-armed +troops. On emerging from the orchards we came upon a grass meadow +extending to the fort of Badjghār, which is again situate at +the mouth of a defile leading to Māther, the route we +eventually pursued. The fort is capable of containing about two +hundred men; when first taken possession of it was literally choked +with filth and abominations of all kinds, but the industry of the +little garrison had succeeded in giving it an air of cleanliness +and comfort. As a military position it is most faulty, and it is +really astonishing to conceive how heedless those who fixed upon it +as a post of such importance must have been of the manifold +weakness of the place; from the surrounding heights it has the +appearance of being situated in a deep dyke; it is completely +hemmed in, and juzzaelmen occupying the adjacent hills could easily +find cover from whence they might pour in so destructive a fire as +to render the place untenable. In addition to these defects, the +fort of Badjghār is unprovided with a well within its +defences; this, as has before been remarked, is a common case, but +still it would materially affect the integrity of a force within, +as they would be reduced to the necessity of frequent sallies to +the neighbouring stream to obtain water.</p> + +<p>We found Capt. Hay in no enviable position; he had but one +European to assist him in his various important duties; the three +or four officers who were nominally attached to the corps being +either on detachment or other military employ, so that with such +slender aid as one European sergeant, it was very hard work for him +to keep up discipline amongst a brave but half savage band, to +provide for their subsistence, keep a sharp look-out on his front +and flanks, and remain on good terms with the neighbouring chiefs, +whose conflicting interests, lawless propensities, and savage +nature were continually requiring his mediation or +interference.</p> + +<p>"<i>Quem deus vult perdere prius dementat</i>" is an old saw +most applicable to the conduct, or rather want of conduct of the +"powers that were" during the spring of 1841, and the state of the +important outpost of Badjghār is a type of the condition of +most of the detached posts throughout the kingdom of Cabul; the +dreadful catastrophe which ushered in the year 1842 is but too +unanswerable a proof of the opinion I here express; and though +innumerable instances of individual gallantry as well amongst the +unlettered privates as the superior officers have thrown a halo +round their bloody graves, the stern truth still forces itself upon +us, that the temporary eclipse of British glory was not the +consequences of events beyond the power of human wisdom to foresee +or ward off, but the natural results of an overweening confidence +in our power, and of an infatuated blindness to the sure +indications of the coming storm which for many months before it +burst darkened our political horizon.</p> + +<p>It will easily be believed that the various duties entailed upon +Capt. Hay left him but little time for scientific researches, yet +this indefatigable officer had already made a fine collection of +geological specimens from the adjacent hills. I regret that +circumstances prevent me from giving any of the useful information +which his industry supplied. I am only able to say, that the +fossils were generally found in tertiary deposits, and were +plentiful in quantity, but the variety was not great. He had at the +time of our visit made, likewise, considerable progress in putting +his position into as good a state of defence as circumstances +allowed; of course he had not means to defilade his fort, but he +had erected a breastwork four feet and a half high across the +defile, which would certainly be of great use in checking any body +of horsemen who might advance from the north, at least for a time +sufficient to enable the garrison to prepare for an attack. The +fort seemed a focus for all the rays of the sun, and was intensely +hot, the thermometer ranging from 95 to 110 in the shade; nor was +the situation healthy, for a great many Goorkahs were in hospital, +and all were more or less debilitated from the effects of the +climate.</p> + +<p>Whilst at Badjghār we made the acquaintance of one of the +chiefs, Suyed Mahommed of the Dushti Suffaëd or <i>white +desert</i>, through whose country we eventually travelled; we found +him an easy good-tempered man, well inclined towards the British, +but grasping and avaricious. Throughout our intercourse with him he +behaved well, but he took occasion frequently to remind us we were +not to forget that he looked for a reward; still, in summing his +character, I must say he was superior to his "order;" for, either +from the wish to lead a quiet life or from his limited means and +unwarlike disposition, he was not given to feuds or chuppaos like +his neighbours. He sent rather a characteristic letter to Shah +Pursund Khān, a chief whose dominions were also on our line of +route, recommending us to his notice, but concluding by telling him +to judge of us and act according to our merits.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="IX">IX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 9th July we bade our kind friend Capt. Hay farewell, and +many were the prayers offered up for our safe return; the Goorkah +soldiers even accompanied us for three or four miles. Sturt had not +been supplied with any introductory letters from Sir William +M'Naghten, although he was sent on duty, for it was uncertain what +kind of a reception we might meet with amongst the chiefs of +Toorkisthān, and it was therefore deemed unadvisable to give +us the character of accredited agents, which would necessarily tend +to mix us up with politics. Though this plan may have been very +wise on the part of Government, yet it by no means contributed to +our comfort, as we found ourselves frequently the objects of +suspicion. Some of the chiefs plainly said, "you are come to survey +our country, and eventually to take possession;" but most of them +cared very little whether we came as friends or foes: they had +little to lose and everything to gain by a <i>row</i>. With a few +of the more influential chiefs the case was different; if we had +caused Dost Mahommed, the all powerful Ameer of Cābul, to +become a fugitive, what chance had they if our views led us across +the Hindoo Khoosh? Such was their mode of reasoning; but it must be +confessed that they were ignorant of the immense advantage the +rugged nature of their barren land would give them over a regular +army, and thus they were unable to form an idea of the value of the +resistance which a few determined mountaineers might oppose. +Amongst other wild schemes, I fancy that the idea was once +entertained, or at all events the question was mooted, of sending a +force to Bokhārā to procure the release of poor Stoddart. +Without dwelling upon the enormous sacrifice of life and treasure +which such an expedition of magnitude sufficient to ensure success +would entail, I may be permitted to point out what from personal +observation I have been led to consider as the "least impossible" +route. The line I should recommend would be the one we pursued as +far as Koollum, when the force should so shape its route as to +avoid the great sandy desert, which extends for three hundred and +fifty miles from Koollum to Bokhārā, by keeping to the +north, and "striking" the Oxus, which is navigable for boats of +heavy burthen for many hundred miles above the capital. But even on +this plan we must suppose the force to have already surmounted the +thousand and one passes which occur between Cabul and Koollum. Much +has been printed and a great deal more written and wisely left +<i>un</i>printed concerning the practicability of these routes for +a modern army; it savours of a useless truism to state, that if the +government making the attempt has resources sufficient in men, +transport, and treasure, and dwells not upon the sacrifice of these +three necessaries for an army, the thing may be done; but I can +hardly conceive any crisis in political affairs which could render +such a measure advantageous to the party undertaking it. The +advancing force will always suffer, whether it be Russia advancing +upon India, or India advancing towards Europe. The hand of God has +fixed the tremendous barrier; woe to him who would despise the +warning.</p> + +<p>Our route lay along the usual green vale so often described, +bounded by barren hills, over which a few inhabitants might +occasionally be seen stalking along in their dark-coloured +garments, which harmonized with the sombre character of the +country. We pitched our tents near the little fort of Māther, +about five miles from our last encampment, and situate at the foot +of the Kara Kotul, or <i>black pass</i>. Our resting place afforded +nothing remarkable; and indeed I feel that some apology is due to +my readers for the unavoidable sameness of the details of this part +of our journey; but I am in hopes that this very defect, though it +render the perusal of my journal still heavier, will assist in +conveying an accurate idea of the nature of the country; it is not +my fault if we met with no adventures, no hairbreadth escapes, or +perilous encounters. I must once more crave indulgence.</p> + +<p>The Affghān soldiers of our escort did not much relish the +discipline I enforced. A complaint was made to me in the course of +the day by a peasant, that these warriors had most unceremoniously +broken down hedges, and entering his apricot orchard, had commenced +appropriating the fruit, responding to his remonstrances with +threats and oaths. I thought this a fine opportunity to read my +savages a lecture on the advantages of discipline and regular pay. +I asked them whether they were not now much better off than when +employed by their own countrymen, and whether they expected to be +treated as regular soldiers, and still be allowed to plunder the +inoffensive inhabitants? One of the men, who was evidently an +orator, listened to me with more attention than the rest, but with +a look of evident impatience for the conclusion of my harangue, +that he too might show how well he could reason. "My lord," said +the man, putting himself into an attitude worthy of the +Conciliation-Hall, to say nothing of St. Stephen's, "my lord, on +the whole your speech is very excellent: your pay is +good––the best, no doubt, and very regular; we have not +hitherto been accustomed to such treatment; though you brought the +evil the remedy has come with it; your arrival in Cābul has so +raised the price of provisions that we could not live on +Affghān pay; we have, therefore, entered the service of the +foreigner; but had we received the same wages we now get from you, +we should in our own service have been gentlemen." Here the orator +made a pause, but soon imagining from my silence that his speech +was unobjectionable, he boldly continued; "but there is one +powerful argument in favour of the Ameer's service, <i>he</i> +always allowed us on the line of march to plunder from every one; +we have been brought up in this <i>principle(!!)</i> since we were +children, and we find it very difficult to refrain from what has so +long been an established practice amongst us: we are soldiers, sir, +and it is not much each man takes; but the British are so strict, +that they will protect a villager or even a stranger:" this last +sentence was evidently pronounced under a deep sense of unmerited +oppression. "But," continued he, "look at that apricot orchard on +the right, how ripe and tempting is the fruit; if we were not under +your orders, those trees would in a moment be as bare as the palm +of my hand." But I remarked, "would not the owners turn out and +have a fight; is it not better to go through a strange country +peaceably and making friends?" "<i>They</i> fight," answered my +hero; "oh! they are Uzbegs and no men, more like +women––one Affghan can beat three Uzbegs." I was not +quite satisfied how far the vaunted pay and discipline would +prevail over the natural lawless propensities of <i>my army</i>, +and in order not to try their insubordination too much, I conceived +that a compromise would be the wisest plan, and giving them a few +rupees, I desired them to make the most they could out of them. Off +they went highly delighted with the results of the interview, +clapping their orator on the back, crying out <i>shābash, +shābash, bravo, bravo</i>, and evidently believing the gift of +the rupees as entirely due to the eloquence of their comrade. They +are a simple people with all their savage characteristics, but it +is very sad to contemplate a whole nation as a race of systematic +plunderers.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon the chief of Māther called to pay his +respects, bringing a present of fruit and sheep's milk; the latter +I found so palatable, that I constantly drank it afterwards; it is +considered very nutritious, and is a common beverage in +Toorkisthān, where the sheep are milked regularly three times +a day. Goats are very scarce, cows not to be seen, but the sheep's +milk affords nourishment in various forms, of which the most common +is a kind of sour cheese, being little better than curdled milk and +salt. Tea is also a favourite drink, but is taken without sugar or +milk; the former is too expensive for the poorer classes, and all +prefer it without the latter. Sometimes a mixture such as would +create dismay at an English tea-table is handed round, consisting +principally of tea-leaves, salt, and fat, like very weak and very +greasy soup, and to an European palate most nauseous. We could +never reconcile our ideas to its being a delicacy. Tea is to be +procured in all large towns hereabouts, of all qualities and at +every price; at Cābul the highest price for tea is £5 +sterling for a couple of pounds' weight; but this is of very rare +quality, and the leaf so fine and fragrant that a mere pinch +suffices a moderate party.</p> + +<p>What would our tea-drinking old ladies say for a few pounds of +that delicious treasure? This superfine leaf reaches Cabul from +China through Thibet, always maintaining its price; but it is +almost impossible to procure it unadulterated, as it is generally +mixed by the merchants with the lesser priced kind. The most +acceptable present which a traveller could offer in +Toorkisthān would be <i>fire-arms</i> or <i>tea</i>; the +latter is a luxury they indulge in to excess, taking it after every +meal; but they seldom are enabled to procure it without the lawless +assistance of the former.</p> + +<p>On leaving Māther we commenced the ascent of the Kara Kotul +or Black Pass, which lasted for seven long miles and was very +fatiguing. The large masses of rock on either side the pathway were +of a deep brown colour. From the length and steepness of the +ascent, this pass must be higher than any we had hitherto +surmounted; the descent on the other side is difficult in +proportion. The approach to Doaūb is through one of the most +romantic glens conceivable. It is here that the Koollum river takes +its rise; it flows due north and soon reaches a mountain meadow, +where it unites with another stream coming from the east, whence +the name of the Doaūb (two waters) is given to this district. +In this defile are scattered huge rocks, which have been dislodged +from the overhanging precipices by the effects of frost or +convulsions of the elements: in vain do these masses obstruct the +progress of the waters of this river. The torrent dashing in +cataracts over some of the large boulders and eddying round the +base of others, pursues an agitated course until it reaches the +desert, through which it glides more calmly, and combines with the +Oxus beyond Koollum, whence the confluent waters proceed +uninterruptedly to the sea of Aral.</p> + +<p>The banks of this river differ from those of the mountain +streams in general; they were decked with the most beautiful wild +flowers, which bloomed luxuriantly on the bushes, and growing from +the deep clefts in the rock, scented the air with their +perfume.</p> + +<p>The glen is here so filled with large blocks of granite, that to +accomplish our passage through it, it was necessary to transfer by +manual labour the loads of the baggage animals across the +obstructing masses: the difficulties we encountered, and more +particularly the romantic scene itself, are still imprinted on my +memory.</p> + +<p>The wind whistling round the jutting points, the dashing of the +waters, and the cries of one of the most timid of our followers, +who to save himself from wet feet had mounted an overladen pony, +and was now in imminent danger both of Scylla and Charybdis, added +to the interest of the picture; but, occasionally, the +reverberation caused by the fragments of rock, which, detaching +themselves from the upper regions, came tumbling down, not far from +where we stood, warned us not to dwell upon the spot. We took the +hint, and hastily extricating man and beast, though not until they +had experienced a severe ducking, we proceeded onwards to where the +waters enclose within their fertilizing arms the grassy fields of +the mountain Doaūb. Here it was that we caught the first +glimpse of the extensive plains where the Toorkmān mares are +turned out to graze; those in foal are left for several months; and +after foaling, the animals are put into smaller pastures provided +with enclosures, where they are shut up at night. The extent of the +larger savannahs is very great, some of them exceeding twenty +miles, and the horses that are allowed to range in them become so +shy, that their owners only can approach them, and the animals are +considered safe from depredators.</p> + +<p>As we gradually emerged from the hard bosom of the mountains, we +were struck with the simple beauty of this little garden of nature. +The vale is triangular, its greatest breadth being about five +miles; its whole extent is covered with a rich turf, intermingled +by just sufficient cultivated land as to supply the inhabitants +with grain. Every wild flower that enlivens our English meads grew +here luxuriantly, while the two streams crept along on either side +like silver threads bordering a jewelled carpet. This gay and +brilliant sight was enhanced by the lofty range of dark frowning +hills which encompassed it. It was worthy of being sung as the +"Loveliest vale in Toorkisthān."</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="X">X.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>I have already mentioned that we had received a letter to Shah +Pursund Khān, the chief of the Doaūb, who accordingly +came out to welcome us to his territory; he embraced us in the +Uzbeg fashion, telling us in eastern phraseology "to consider his +dominion as our own, and that we might command all he possessed." +After many compliments of this nature, he inquired with some +bluntness whither we were bound and what our object was? We +answered him, that we were proceeding to Koollum, and were anxious +to get as much information as he would be good enough to afford us +concerning so beautiful a portion of the globe, and we wished to +survey its particular features. "Mind," rejoined he, "that the +chief of Heibuk and the Meer Walli of Koollum are my enemies, and +may be yours." "If," answered Sturt, "we shall meet with the same +reception from them as we have hitherto enjoyed from all other +chiefs whose possessions we have had occasion to trespass upon +during our journeyings, we cannot complain of want of either +kindness or hospitality; for as travellers we come, and once eating +the 'salt of an Uzbeg,' we know that none would dishonour himself +by acting the traitor." "True," retorted the khān, "but he who +is your friend while in his dominions will rob you as soon as you +set your foot across his frontier." We were not much pleased at +this prospect, as we knew he spoke truth when declaring himself at +enmity with the surrounding chiefs, but "sufficient for the day is +the evil thereof," so we made up our minds to take what advantage +we could of his friendly disposition towards us, and trust to our +good fortune and the "chapter of accidents" for our future safety. +Shah Pursund Khān did not confine his kindness to words, for +he sent us an ample supply of flour and clarified butter for our +followers, grass and corn for our cattle, and a sheep for +ourselves; these sheep are of the Doomba species, with large tails +weighing several pounds, which are considered the most delicate +part of the animal. He also sent us from his harem an enormous dish +of foulādeh, made of wheat boiled to a jelly and strained, and +when eaten with sugar and milk palatable and nutritious.</p> + +<p>The following morning, as we were preparing to start, I happened +to enter into conversation with an aged moollah, the solitary +cicerone of the Doaūb, who gave us a brief but very +extraordinary account of a cavern about seven miles off; our +curiosity was so much excited by the marvellous details we heard, +that we determined to delay our departure for the purpose of +ascertaining how much of his story was due to the wild imagination +of our informant. We accordingly gave orders to unsaddle, and +communicated our intentions to the khan. At first he strongly urged +us not to put our plan into execution, declaring that the cave was +the domicile of the evil one, and that no stranger who had presumed +to intrude upon the privacy of the awful inhabitant had ever +returned to tell of what he had seen. It will easily be imagined +that these warnings only made us more determined upon visiting the +spot. At length, finding our resolution immovable, the khān, +much to our astonishment, declared that it was not from personal +fear, but from anxiety for our safety that he had endeavoured to +deter us, but that, as we were obstinate, he would at least afford +us the advantage of his protection, and accompany us, I confess we +were not sanguine in our expectations that he would keep his word, +and were not a little surprised to see him shortly after issue +forth from his fort fully armed, and accompanied by his principal +followers. We immediately made all necessary preparations, and +started on our visit to his satanic majesty.</p> + +<p>A bridle-path conducted us for some miles along the edge of a +gentle stream, whose banks were clothed with long luxuriant grass +extending on either side for a few hundred yards; we proceeded +rapidly at first, keeping our horses at a hand gallop, as the path +was smooth, and also to escape from the myriads of forest-flies or +blood-suckers which were perpetually hovering around us, and +irritating our cattle almost to madness whenever we were obliged to +slacken our pace; our tormentors, however, did not pursue us beyond +the limits of the pasture land, so that we were glad to exchange +the beauties of the prairie for the stony barren ground which +succeeded it. We soon reached the base of a hill from whence the +wished-for cavern was visible, situated about half-way up its face. +We were now obliged to dismount, and leaving our horses under the +charge of an Uzbeg, who could hardly conceal his delight at being +selected for the least dangerous duty, we commenced the ascent.</p> + +<p>During our ride I had endeavoured to gather a few more +particulars concerning the dreaded cavern, and as might have been +expected, the anticipated horrors dwindled away considerably as we +approached it; still enough of the marvellous remained to keep my +curiosity on the stretch. Shah Pursund Khān confessed that he +was not positive that the devil actually lived there, but still, he +said, it was very probable; he had first heard of the existence of +the cave when he obtained possession of the Doāub twelve years +ago, from the very moollah who was our informant. Urged by a +curiosity similar to our own, he had ventured some little distance +inside, but suddenly he came upon the print of a naked foot, and +beside it another extraordinary impression, which he suspected to +be from the foot of sheittan (the devil) himself; quite satisfied +that he had gone far enough, he retreated precipitately, and from +that day to this had never intruded again. He argued that any +<i>human</i> being living in the cave would require sustenance, and +of course would purchase it at his fort, which was the only one +where the necessaries of life could be procured for many miles +around; but he knew every one who came to him, and no stranger had +ever come on such an errand; he therefore concluded with an +appealing look to the moollah who was with us. The moollah, +however, had a tale of his own to tell, and seemed to have no great +respect for the superstitious fears of his patron. "The name of the +cavern is Yeermālik, and the fact of the matter is this," said +he, settling himself in his saddle for a long story. "In the time +of the invasion, six hundred years ago, of Genghis Khān the +Tartar, seven hundred men of the Huzareh tribe, with their wives +and families and a stock of provisions, took possession of this +cavern, hoping to escape the fury of the ruthless invader, and +never stirred beyond its mouth. But the cruel Genghis, after +wasting the country with fire and sword, set on foot a strict +search for such of the unfortunate inhabitants as had fled from his +tyranny. His bloodhounds soon scented the wretched Huzarehs, and a +strong party was sent to drive them from their place of refuge. But +despair lent to the besieged a courage which was not the +characteristic of their tribe, and knowing that, if taken alive, a +lingering torture and cruel death would be their fate, they +resolved to make good their defence at every hazard. The mouth of +the cave was small, and no sooner did the invaders rush in than +they were cut down by those inside; in vain were more men thrust in +to take the place of those slain; the advantages of position were +too great, and they were obliged at length to desist. But Genghis +was not to be balked of his victims, and his devilish cunning +suggested the expedient of lighting straw at the mouth of the cave +to suffocate those inside, but the size of the place prevented his +plan from taking effect; so he at last commanded a large fragment +of rock to be rolled to the mouth of the cavern, adding another as +a support, and having thus effectually barred their exit, he +cruelly abandoned them to their fate. Of course the whole party +suffered a miserable death, and it is perhaps the spirits of the +murdered men that, wandering about and haunting it, have given a +suspicious character to the place; but," concluded he, rather +dogmatically, "the devil <i>does not</i> live there +now––it is too cold!!"[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Those who have been familiarized to +the atrocities perpetrated by the French in Algeria will not feel +the horror that the moollah's tale would otherwise have excited; +the similarity of these outrages to humanity is so striking, that I +quote a passage extracted from the French paper, "The National," +which will speak for itself.</p> + +<blockquote>"The National gives a frightful picture of Marshal +Bugeaud's doings in Africa. According to the accounts published by +this paper, fifty prisoners were one day shot in cold +blood––thirteen villages burned––the Dahra +massacre acted over again, for it appears that a portion of a tribe +having hid themselves in a cave, the same means were resorted to +exactly as those employed by Colonel Pelissier, and all smoked and +baked to death. The Marshal himself is the author of all these +horrors––his last triumph was a monster +razzia––he has ordered the most strict secresy as to +his barbarous proceedings; and the writer of the accounts calls him +a second Attila, for he puts all to the sword and fire, sparing +only women and children."]</blockquote> + +<p>After scrambling over loose stones, climbing up precipices, and +crawling round the projecting rocks, which consumed an hour, we +found ourselves on a small ledge in front of the outer aperture, +which was nearly circular and about fifty feet high. We were now in +a cavern apparently of no great extent, and as I could not discover +any other passage, I began to fancy that it was for this paltry +hole we had undergone so much fatigue, and had had our expectations +raised so high. I was about to give utterance to my disappointment, +when I perceived the Uzbegs preparing their torches and arranging +the line of march, in which it seemed that no one was anxious to +take precedence. I now began to look about me, in the hope that +there was something more to be seen, and was delighted to observe +one adventurous hero with a torch disappear behind some masses of +rock. We all followed our leader, and it was with great difficulty +that, one by one, we managed to squeeze ourselves through a narrow +gap between two jagged rocks, which I presume I am to consider as +the identical ones that were rolled to the mouth six hundred years +ago at the stern command of the Tartar Attila.</p> + +<p>I confess that hitherto I had treated the moollah's account as +an idle tale; my unbelief, however, was quickly removed, for just +as we entered the narrow passage the light of the torches was for +an instant thrown upon a group of human skeletons. I saw them but +for an instant, and the sight was quite sufficient to raise my +drooping curiosity to its former <a name= +"Outer_Cave_of_Yeermallik">pitch.</a></p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Outer Cave, Yeermallix"> +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td><img src="images/yeermallix2.png" width="649" height="498" alt="Outer Cave, Yeermallix" border="0" /></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td width="5%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="85%">View of the Outer Cave of Yeermallik, +shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + <br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XI">XI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>We proceeded down the sloping shaft, occasionally bruising +ourselves against its jagged sides, until our leader suddenly came +to a dead halt. I was next to him, and coming up as close as I +could, I found that one step further would have precipitated the +adventurous guide into an abyss, the bottom and sides of which were +undistinguishable; after gazing for a moment into this apparently +insurmountable obstacle to our further progress, I could just +perceive a narrow ledge about sixteen feet below me, that the eye +could trace for a few yards only, beyond which it was lost in the +deep gloom surrounding us. Our conductor had already made up his +mind what to do: he proceeded to unwind his long narrow turban +composed of cotton cloth, and called to his comrades to do the +same; by joining these together they formed a kind of rope by means +of which we gradually lowered each other, till at last a party ten +in number were safely landed on the ledge. We left a couple of men +to haul us up on our return, and proceeded on our way, groping +along the brink of the yawning chasm. Every now and then loose +stones set in motion by our feet would slip into this bottomless +pit, and we could hear them bounding down from ledge to ledge, +smashing themselves into a thousand fragments, till the echoes so +often repeated were like the independent file-firing of a battalion +of infantry. Sometimes the narrow path would be covered for a +distance of many feet with a smooth coat of ice, and then it was +indeed dangerous. After moving on in this way for some minutes, the +road gradually widened till we found ourselves on the damp and +dripping flooring of a chamber of unknown dimensions; the torch +light was not strong enough to enable us to conceive the size of +this subterraneous hall, but all around us lay scattered melancholy +proofs that there was some sad foundation for the moollah's story. +Hundreds of human skeletons were strewed around; as far as the eye +could penetrate these mournful relics presented themselves; they +were very perfect, and had evidently not been disturbed since +death; some had more the appearance of the shrivelled-up remains +which we find in the Morgue on the road to the Grand St. Bernard, +and lay about us in all the varied positions induced by their +miserable fate. Here, it seemed that a group had, while sufficient +strength yet remained, huddled themselves together, as if to keep +up the vital warmth of which death so slowly and yet so surely was +depriving them; a little farther on was a figure in a sitting +posture, with two infants still clasped in its bony arms; and then +again the eye would fall upon some solitary figure with +outstretched limbs, as if courting that death which on the instant +responded to the call. Involuntarily my thoughts recurred to +Dante's beautiful description of the Comte Ugolino's children and +their piteous end in the Torre della Fame––but here, a +sickening sense of the dreadful reality of the horrors, which it +was evident from these mute memorials of man's cruelty to his +fellow had been endured, quite oppressed me, and I wished I had +never visited the spot. I felt myself so much harrowed by this sad +scene, that I endeavoured to distract my attention; but what was my +astonishment when my eye fell upon the print of a human naked foot, +and beside it the distinct mark of the pointed heel of the +Affghān boot!––I hope my reader will give me +credit for truth––I can assure him that it was some +time before I could believe my own eyes, though I considered that +the result of our explorations would explain in part the sight, +which appeared to me so extraordinary, and which tallied so +strangely with the footprints which had frightened Shah Pursund +Khan twelve years ago. I was still absorbed in reflections of no +very gay colour, when one of the attendants warned me that if I +staid all day amongst the "dead people," there would not be +sufficient oil to feed the torches, and we should be unable to +visit the Ice Caves. I was immediately roused, and proceeded +onwards with the party through several low arches and smaller +caves,––suddenly a strange glare spread itself about +me, and after a few more steps a magnificent spectacle presented +itself. In the centre of a large cave stood an enormous mass of +clear ice, smooth and polished as a mirror, and in the form of a +gigantic beehive, with its dome-shaped top just touching the long +icicles which depended from the jagged surface of the rock. A small +aperture led to the interior of this wonderful congelation, the +walls of which were nearly two feet thick––the floor, +sides, and roof were smooth and slippery, and our figures were +reflected from floor to ceiling and from side to side in endless +repetition. The inside of this chilly abode was divided into +several compartments of every fantastic shape; in some the +glittering icicles hung like curtains from the roof; in others the +vault was smooth as glass. Beautifully brilliant were the prismatic +colours reflected from the varied surface of the ice, when the +torches flashed suddenly upon them as we passed from cave to cave. +Around, above, beneath, every thing was of solid ice, and being +unable to stand on account of its slippery nature, we slid or +rather glided mysteriously along the glassy surface of this hall of +spells. In one of the largest compartments the icicles had reached +the floor, and gave the idea of pillars supporting the roof. +Altogether the sight was to me as novel as it was magnificent, and +I only regret that my powers of description are inadequate to do +justice to what I <a name="Ice_Caves">saw.</a></p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td width="40%"><img src="images/toorkisthan114.jpg" width="325" +height="474" alt="View of the Ice Caves in the Cavern of Yeermallik" border="0" /> +</td> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="40%">View of the Ice Caves<br /> +in the Cavern of Yeermallik<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by Mr Gempertz<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<p>After wandering for some time amongst these extraordinary +chambers, we proceeded further to examine the nature of the caverns +in which they were formed: these seemed to branch out into +innumerable galleries, which again intersected each other. +Sometimes they expanded into halls, the dimensions of which our +feeble light prevented us from calculating, and anon they +contracted into narrow passages, so low that we were obliged to +creep along them on our hands and knees. Our party had just emerged +from one of these defiles and were standing together on a kind of +sloping platform, at which point the declivity seemed to become +more precipitous as it receded from our sight, when our attention +was suddenly arrested by the reappearance of the mysterious naked +footprints which I had before observed in the chamber of skeletons. +I examined them minutely, and am certain from the spread of the +toes that they belonged to some one who was in the habit of going +barefoot. I took a torch, and determined to trace them as far as I +could. Had I met with these prints in the open air, I should have +decided upon their being quite fresh, but the even temperature and +stillness of atmosphere which reigned in these strange regions +might account for the tracks retaining that sharpness of outline +which denotes a recent impression. The direction I took led me +immediately down the slope I have just mentioned, and its +increasing steepness caused me some misgivings as to how I should +get back, when suddenly a large stone on which I had rested my foot +gave way beneath my weight, and down I came, extinguishing my torch +in my fall. Luckily I managed to stop myself from rolling down the +fearful chasm which yawned beneath, but the heavy rounded fragment +of rock rolled onwards, first with a harsh grating sound, as if it +reluctantly quitted its resting place, then, gradually acquiring +impetus, down it thundered, striking against other rocks and +dragging them on with it, till the loud echoes repeated a thousand +times from the distant caves mingling with the original sound +raised a tumult of noise quite sufficient to scare a braver crew +than our party consisted of. The effect of my mishap was +instantaneous. Our followers raised an universal shout of +Sheitān, Sheitān, (the devil, the devil,) and rushed +helter skelter back from the direction of the sound. In the +confusion all the torches carried by the natives were extinguished, +and had not my friend Sturt displayed the most perfect coolness and +self-possession, we should have been in an alarming predicament; +for he (uninfluenced by any such supernatural fears as had been +excited amongst the runaways by the infernal turmoil produced by my +unlucky foot, and though himself ignorant of the cause of it from +having been intent upon the footmarks when I slipped), remained +perfectly unmoved with his torch, the only one still burning, +raised high above his head, waiting patiently till the panic should +subside. Order was at length restored in some degree, but the +thirst of enterprise was cooled, and the natives loudly declared +they would follow the devil no farther, and that we must return +forthwith. Shah Pursund Khān, who was just as great a coward +as the rest, declared it was no use following the track any more, +for it was well known the cavern extended to Cabul!!! Finding it +useless endeavouring to revive the broken spirits of these cravens, +we reluctantly commenced a retrograde movement, and I was obliged +to remain in lasting ignorance of the nature of the mysterious +origin of the footprint.</p> + +<p>We had considerable difficulty in finding our way back to the +ice rooms; the fears of our followers had now completely got the +better of them; they lost their presence of mind, and, +consequently, their way; and it was not till after we had wandered +about for more than an hour that we hit upon the ledge which +eventually led us to the drop which we had originally descended by +means of the ladder of turbans. At the head of this drop we had +left a couple of men to haul us up; as soon as they perceived the +light of our expiring torches, they called out loudly to us to make +haste and get out of the place, for they had seen the +<i>Sheitān</i>, about an hour ago, run along the ledge beneath +them, and disappear in the gloom beyond. This information raised +the terror of the poor natives to a climax; all made a rush for the +rope of turbans, and four or five having clutched hold of it, were +in the act of dragging down turban, men, and torches upon our +devoted heads, when Sturt interfered, and by his firm +remonstrances, aided by the timely fall of a few well-aimed stones +upon the heads of the crew, made them relax their grasp and ascend +one by one.</p> + +<p>The chief, being the lightest, claimed the privilege of being +drawn up first, which was readily agreed to; and so in succession +each when he had mounted assisted in drawing up his companions, +till at last we were all safely landed at the top, out of the reach +of <i>any ordinary sized</i> devil. We soon emerged into the open +air, covered with dust from head to foot like Indian Faqueers, +after having been for nearly four hours wandering in the bowels of +the earth. Our followers soon regained their courage now that the +danger was past, and each in turn began to boast of his own valour +and sneer at the pusillanimity of his comrade; but all agreed that +nothing on earth or in heaven should ever tempt them again to visit +the ice-caves of Yeermallick.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XII">XII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 13th of July we bade adieu to our friend Shah Pursund +Khān, who accompanied us a short distance on our way, after in +vain endeavouring to induce us to remain with him for some time +longer, this we could not accede to, but promised, if our time +permitted, to pay him a lengthened visit on our return. We had a +long march this day, the distance being nearly eighteen miles; but +our beasts of burden were much the better for their day's halt, +and, the greater part of the road being a descent, we reached +Rhoeh, where we pitched our tents, in very good time. The first few +miles were along the delightful valley of the Doaub, which we +reluctantly quitted, and after crossing a low ridge descended +through broken country till we reached the foot of the hills, where +I observed for the first time a genuine Tartar krail, composed of a +number of small black blanket tents fastened to a kind of wattle. +In the plain of Rhoeh is a small mud fort in a dilapidated state, +and uninhabited; the village itself was not of any importance, the +habits of the people being evidently migratory.</p> + +<p>The Jerboa is a native of this country as well as the steppes of +Tartary, where it is most commonly found in the shrubless plains; +in form it is a miniature of the kangaroo, to which in some of its +peculiarities it bears a close resemblance, though in size it is +very little larger than our common English rat. The name of the +"Vaulting Rat," by which it is known among naturalists, is very +applicable. These little animals burrow deeply in the ground, and +the method of dislodging them adopted by us was the pouring a +quantity of water into their holes, which causes them to rush out +at another aperture, when they commence leaping about in a +surprising manner until they observe another burrow and instantly +disappear. If chased, they spring from the hind quarters, darting +about here and there, and affording great amusement to the +pursuers. It is difficult to hold them, as they are rarely grasped +without losing a portion of their long and beautiful tails. The +forelegs are much shorter than the hind ones, the ears are very +large and silky, and the eye surpassingly black and brilliant. It +is a harmless animal, and no doubt when tamed would be perfectly +domesticated.</p> + +<p>Nothing of interest occurred either this day or the next, which +brought us, after another dreary march of seventeen miles, to the +fort and village of Koorrum. For nearly the whole distance between +Rhoeh and Koorrum not a drop of water is procurable; as we had not +provided against this contingency, we suffered in proportion. +Altogether this part of the road offers considerable obstacles to +the progress of an army, from its numerous ravines and steep though +short ascents and descents, which would be very difficult for +artillery; I should, from a cursory glance at the country, imagine +that these steep pitches might be avoided by a more circuitous +route, though the one we pursued was the beaten track for the +caravans, and they generally find out the most convenient passage. +The approach to Koorrum was pretty, but the scenery was of a +character with which we were now so familiar that its peculiar +beauties did not perhaps impress us as much as when they afforded +the additional charm of novelty. A succession of walnut, apricot, +mulberry, and apple trees shaded our path, which lay through +extensive orchards, carpeted with beautiful turf. The vines clung +to the sycamore trees; and where the spade had been at work, corn +and artificial grasses grew in abundance. Our next halting place +was Sarbagh, where we arrived on the 15th, after marching through a +pleasant and fruitful valley, flanked by parallel belts of mountain +land, the agreeable verdure relieving the eye from the barrenness +of this, I may call it, parietal range. The ornamental trees which +fringe the banks of the Koollum river, as it gracefully pursues its +course to the Oxus, had altogether a very picturesque +appearance.</p> + +<p>The son of Baber Beg, the chief of Heibuk, was at this time +residing at Sarbagh, and shewed us every possible attention, +sending us sheep, fowls, corn, flour, fruit, and every article +required for about seventy people. It was very gratifying to us to +find that we were treated by the Uzbeg chiefs in so friendly a +manner, as we had some misgivings lest our being unprovided with +any letters from influential men in Cābul, might create +unfavourable surmises amongst a half-savage and naturally +suspicious race. Doubtless we gained a large portion of attention +and civility from the idea which pervaded all our hosts that we +were great hakeems, <i>physicians</i>, and if we chose, could +relieve the human body from every illness whether real or +imaginary––and I was glad to remark that the latter +class of ailment was by far the most common. Still, some diseases +were very prevalent, particularly those which may be considered as +induced by a total absence of cleanliness. Sore eyes were very +common here, as in Affghanistān, and our powers and medicine +chest were sometimes rather too severely taxed by importunate +applicants, who never would apply the remedy in the manner +described, unless it was administered upon principles which they +understood, and which was in accordance with their own reasoning. +In Cābul, the medical officers were the only class of +Europeans allowed an entrance to the harems of the rich, when they +were expected after feeling the pulse of some Cashmerian beauty to +pronounce her malady, and effect her cure forthwith. The lords of +the creation too, debilitated from early dissipation or a life of +debauchery, sued for remedies and charms, which, alas! are only to +be found in the hundredth edition of a work known by its mysterious +advertisement in the columns of a London newspaper.</p> + +<p>On the 16th, after a long march of twenty-two miles, we +approached Heibuk through the same kind of scenery as the preceding +day; on rounding a projecting ledge of rock we saw that fortress in +the distance, on an insulated eminence adjacent to a low range of +hills. Meer Baber Beg has placed his fortress in a very respectable +state of defence, quite adequate to repel the desultory inroads of +his predatory neighbours; but commanded by and exposed to enfilade +from the hills about it, on one of these hills he has built a tower +as a kind of outwork, but it is very weak and of insignificant +size.</p> + +<p>The only thing worth seeing near Heibuk is the Tukt-i-Rustum or +Throne of Hercules, which we accordingly visited, and found it to +be a fortification of no very great extent on a most uncommon +principle, and of unknown date. The best idea I can convey to the +reader of its shape, is by begging him to cut an orange in half, +and place its flat surface in a saucer; he will then have a +tolerable model of the Tukt-i-Rustum. We entered by a narrow +gallery piercing through the solid mass of rock which forms the +outer wall or saucer, and leading by an irregular flight of steps +to the summit of the orange. I instituted many enquiries concerning +the origin of this place, but I could obtain no information; not +even a legend beyond that it was holy. We were accompanied by one +of the chief's sons, a fat jolly youth of about four-and-twenty, +with a countenance that was a type of his good +humour––he sat with us for some time whilst we were at +our toilette, but affected to be somewhat shocked at the very +scanty clothing which we considered sufficient while our Bheesties +poured the contents of their mussocks[*] over us. It was rather +amusing to hear the remarks of the bystanders, who seemed to view +cleanliness as a consideration very secondary to etiquette. It +would have been fortunate for us if I could have persuaded our +criticising friends to try on their own persons the advantage of a +dash of fresh water, for they were without exception the most +filthy race it has ever been my misfortune to meet; their garments +teem with life, and sometimes, after merely sitting on the same rug +placed to receive visitors, I have been under the necessity of +making a fresh toilette.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Skins of water.]</p> + +<p>Meer Baber Beg was a great man in these parts, and kindly sent +us three sheep, with fowls, flour, fruits, and grain in abundance, +intimating, at the same time, his intention to pay us a visit in +the evening. He came accordingly, and favoured us with his presence +for a considerable time. He seemed an intelligent man, but in a +very infirm state of health, and quite crippled from rheumatism. +One would hardly have supposed, while admiring his pleasing +features, which expressed so much benignity, that when on the +throne of Koollum he had been such a bloody tyrant; yet such was +the case;––though the hereditary ruler of Koollum and +its dependencies, he had by his brutality made himself so +obnoxious, that he was deposed by his own subjects headed by his +younger brother, and dare not now shew his face on his paternal +estate.</p> + +<p>This corpulent son whom I have before mentioned brought a +double-barrelled percussion gun for my inspection, and requested +that I would test its qualities on some pigeons that were flying +about; I was fortunate enough to bring down a couple on the wing, +but was somewhat mortified to find that the burst of admiration +which followed my feat was entirely confined to the weapon, which, +together with the donor, Dr. Lord, was praised to the skies, whilst +no kind of credit was given to my skill in using it.</p> + +<p>We halted at Heibuk on the 17th, as the Meer requested we would +stay a day with him before putting ourselves in the power of the +dreaded Meer Walli of Koollum. At first he endeavoured to persuade +us to abandon our project of proceeding further, but, finding us +determined, he contented himself with relating every possible story +he could remember or invent concerning the many acts of cruel +treachery which the Meer Walli had perpetrated, and concluded by an +eulogium on his own manifold virtues.</p> + +<p>During the course of the day a Hindoo from Peshawur peeped +cautiously into my tent, and, on my inquiring his business, he +approached, and with many salaams, laid a bag of money at my feet; +rather astonished at so unusual an offering, I requested to know +the cause of this act of generosity, and I was informed that it was +a "first offering," or, in other words, a bribe to propitiate me, +in the hope that I would use my influence to get the Hindoo out of +the clutches of Meer Baber Beg. The story he told me was, that some +years back he came to Heibuk to trade, and having made a little +money was packing up his property preparatory to his departure, +when he was suddenly ordered into the Meer's presence. "Friend," +said this benign ruler, "stay here a little longer; it is not right +that, having made a sum of money in my country, you should spend it +in your own." Since then, he added, he had been ill-treated and +robbed several times to satisfy the rapacity of this wicked +monster; and then, as if frightened at his own expressions, he +peered cautiously round the tent, apparently fancying the Meer +himself would start from behind the screen to punish him for his +audacity. I returned him his 250 rupees, but told him if his story +were true I would use what little influence I possessed to procure +his release. When Baber Beg came to pay us his evening visit I +broached the subject, and requested as a favour that the Hindoo +might be permitted to accompany our party as a guide and +interpreter. "If you will take my advice," said he, "you will have +nothing to say to the scoundrel, who will come to a bad end: he has +been deceiving you; but if, after my warning, you still wish to +have him as a guide, take him by all means."</p> + +<p>Accordingly I took him, but in justice to the Meer's +discrimination of character it must be owned that my +protegé, as soon as he considered himself safe from the +Meer's indignation, proved himself to the full as great a scoundrel +as he had been represented. The following morning, before taking +our departure, Start presented to the Meer's youngest son a +handsome pair of percussion pistols, for which the father seemed so +very grateful that I could not help suspecting he intended to +appropriate them to his own use as soon as we were well away.</p> + +<p>On leaving the fortress of Heibuk we passed through a very +extensive cultivated district, the principal produce being the +grain which in Hindoostan is called jowār. The remaining +portion of our journey to Hazree Sooltān, which was a distance +of eighteen miles, was nothing but a barren waste with occasional +patches of low jungle. We were now evidently on the farthest spur +of the Hindoo Khoosh; the hills were low and detached, gradually +uniting into the endless plain which bounded the horizon to the +north and west. On the road we met a messenger who was on his way +to Sir Alexander Burnes at Kābul, having come from Bokhara, +bearing a letter from the <i>Vakeel</i>, or native ambassador, whom +Sir Alexander had sent some time back to endeavour, by persuasion +or stratagem, to effect the release of our unfortunate countryman, +Col. Stoddart. The courier, who had received the account from the +Vakeel, whether true or false he could not inform us, stated "that +Col. Stoddart accompanied the Persian army to Herāt, and +finding they could not make the desired impression on the walls, +raised the siege, and the Colonel left the army and proceeded +across to Bokhara, whether to endeavour to effect the release of +the Russian slaves, (there being many in the dominions of the +Bokhara King,) or merely for amusement, he could not say; but that +the latter was the generally received opinion. On approaching the +city of the tyrant king he met a man riding furiously away with a +woman, and as she passed, called out to the Colonel Amaun, Amaun! +mercy, mercy! whereupon he immediately galloped up to the ravisher, +and securing the deliverance of the woman, told her to keep under +his protection until he entered the city. +On the first day after his arrival the King passed as the +Colonel was riding on horseback, and although the latter gave the +salute usual in his own country, it did not satisfy the ruler; +moreover, he, the Feringhi, was on horseback without permission, +and therefore the Khan ordered him the following day into his +presence. Messengers the next morning were sent, who abruptly +entered the Colonel's house, and finding he would not willingly +submit, dragged him before their chief. He was asked, why he had +infringed the customs of the country by riding on horseback in the +city, and why he did not pay the recognised submission to the ruler +of a free country? The reply was, that the same compliment had been +paid to the King of Bokhara as was customary in Europe to a crowned +head. And why have you presumed to ride on horseback within the +city walls, where no Feringhi is allowed? Because I was ignorant of +the custom. It's a lie; my messengers ordered you to dismount and +you would not. 'Tis true, they did order me and I did not, but I +thought they were doing more than their duty. After this the King +ordered him into confinement, where he now is."</p> + +<p>The courier, after giving us this information, remarked that he +was penniless, and that as his business concerned the safety of a +countryman, he hoped we would assist him. Though we were not quite +satisfied with the man's story, we stood the chance of its being +true, and furnished him with funds for the prosecution of his +journey, for which, on our return to Cabul, we were kindly thanked +by Sir Alexander, who informed us that the note from the Vakeel +conveyed the intelligence of the failure of his endeavours, and +that he had himself been put in confinement.</p> + +<p>At the time of which I am writing both Dost Mahommed Khān +and his notorious son Akbar were prisoners at Bokhara; but the +means taken by <i>their</i> friends to release them were more +successful than those adopted by our politicals at Cabul. It +appears that the chief at Shere Subz had for some time been at +enmity with his Bokhara neighbour, and, wishing to do Dost Mahommed +a good turn, he picked out fifty of the most expert thieves in his +dominions––a difficult selection where the claims of +all to this bad preeminence were so strong––but the +Shere Subz chief was from experience a tolerable judge of the +qualifications of an expert rogue, and having pitched upon his men, +he promised them valuable presents, provided they effected, by +whatever means they might choose to adopt, the release of the Dost; +hinting at the same time that if they failed he should be under the +necessity of seizing and selling their families. The thieves were +successful, and at the expiration of a month the Dost was free.</p> + +<p>If we could have interested the chief of Shere Subz in our +favour by presents and fair words, might not the same means have +been employed for the rescue of poor Stoddart? The only way to deal +with a ruffian like him of Bokhara would have been by pitting +against him some of his own stamp.</p> + +<p>The King of Bokhara has several times endeavoured to coerce the +Shere Subz's chief, but the instant a hostile force appears on his +frontiers, the latter causes the whole of his country to be +inundated, so that the invader is obliged to retire, and is by this +stratagem kept at a respectful distance.</p> + +<p>Another traveller came across us this day, who had resided for +some years at Kokān, and furnished us with some account of the +nature of the Chinese garrison of that fort. It is situated on an +isolated rock, and every five years relieved with men, provisions, +and ammunition; the flanks of the bastions are armed with ponderous +wall pieces, requiring three men to work them. Chambers are also +bored in the live rock, from whence enormous masses of stone might +be discharged on an assailing foe. The Kokānese have often +attempted to dislodge the intruders, but owing to the good state of +defence in which the fort is kept, and the strong escorts under +which the reliefs are regularly forwarded, they have been always +repulsed with severe loss. My informant had been in the service of +the Kokānese, and was now on his way to Hindoostan; in +military notions he must have been of the famous Captain Dugald +Dalgetty's school, for I afterwards met him as a non-commissioned +officer in Shah Seujah's Goorkah battalion.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIII">XIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>A march of eighteen miles brought us on the 19th July to +Koollum. The road continued along the banks of the river, through a +wide valley bounded by low distant hills for nearly the whole way. +Towards the end of our journey a spur from these hills struck right +across the direction of the river, which had forced for itself a +passage through the obstacle without deviating much from its +rectilinear course, but considerably disturbing its previously +placid character, for here it rushed with impetuous violence +through the narrow cleft which it had formed, through this, the +most advanced outpost of the glorious range of the Hindoo Khoosh. +The defile, though short, was difficult of access and capable of +being long defended; there is a small tower about the centre, +slightly removed from and commanding the road: but a mere handfull +of troops stationed on the crags above could, by hurling down the +loosened masses of rock which totter on the edge of the cliff, for +a time effectually stop the progress of a hostile army from either +side. I should imagine, however, that this as well as every other +pass I have ever seen except the Khyber and Bolun would be more +easily turned than forced. On emerging from this last defile, a +prospect presents itself strongly contrasting with the romantic +scenery we had recently been witnessing. Immediately before us lay +the populous city of Koollum, the fortress standing on a small +isolated eminence, and the dome-shaped houses embosomed in the deep +foliage of their gardens and orchards clustered round it for miles +on every side. Immediately on the outskirts of the city the desert +commences, which, stretching away to Bokhara as far as the eye +could reach, formed a melancholy and uninviting background to the +busy scene before us. As we approached the city, we had our +misgivings as to the nature of our reception by the Meer Walli, as, +contrary to the treatment we had invariably experienced from the +chiefs of all the considerable places through which we had had +occasion to pass since entering Toorkisthān, no one appeared +on the part of the Meer to welcome us. At length, after wandering +about the suburbs for more than an hour, followed by a crowd of +gaping idlers who seemed half disposed to question our right of +<i>squatting</i>, we selected an open space and commenced unloading +our baggage animals, and prepared to establish <a name= +"Koollum">ourselves.</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - View of Koollum, from the eastward"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td width="40%"><img src="images/toorkistan139.gif" width="500" height="300" alt="View of Koollum, from the eastward" border="0" /> +</td> +<td width="10%"> </td> +<td class="left" width="40%">View of Koollum, from the +eastward.<br /> +<br /> +Drawn by J. Cowell Esq!!<br /> + <span class="smallprint1">Pelham Richardson Litho</span> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<p>Our spirits were raised, however, soon after, by the welcome +arrival of an officer of the Meer's household, who was sent by his +master to convey us to the caravanserai, where, after a short +period, we received three or four sheep with fruit and other +provisions of all descriptions, which supply was regularly +continued during the whole time we remained at Koollum. Our +uneasiness, thus quieted, was soon entirely dispelled by a message +announcing that a visit from the great man himself would take place +in the evening. We must have been rather difficult to please, +however, on this particular day, for after the wished-for visit was +over, we both agreed that it had been dreadfully tiresome; to be +sure, as fate would have it, we had not had time to eat our dinner +before his arrival, and etiquette obliged us to defer eating till +after his departure, which did not release us till past midnight, +though he made his appearance soon after eight o'clock.</p> + +<p>In person the Meer Walli was certainly very prepossessing; his +voice was peculiarly musical, and his manner gentlemanly and easy; +his face would have been eminently handsome but for a dreadful +wound by which he had lost a portion of his nose. At this our first +interview nothing relative to our own future proceedings was +discussed, though that was the subject uppermost in our own minds, +as we could not but feel ourselves entirely at the mercy of a +robber prince of notorious character. As it was, the conversation +was made up of those compliments and common-places with which the +Orientals know so well how to fill up "awkward pauses," when, for +reasons of their own, they do not intend talking upon the real +business. He very politely acceded to our request of visiting the +bazaar the following morning, which being market-day, the influx of +strangers from the Tartar encampments at the different oases of the +Bokhara Desert, and country people from the Toorkisthān +mountains, was very great. One of his household was always in +attendance as we passed out of the gate of the caravanserai, where +we lodged, to conduct us about, and act in the double capacity of +spy and cicerone. The city was crowded, and our appearance excited +considerable sensation––much more so in truth than was +pleasant, for we were followed wherever we went by a very curious +and a very dirty crowd. We had heard a good deal about the +Mahommedan college at Koollum, and of course were very anxious to +see what comparison existed between it and our own colleges: we +could trace none beyond the term of college. The house itself was +new and capacious, with clean-looking apartments for the scholars. +We entered the halls of study, which were long narrow verandahs, +and found several white-bearded and sagacious-looking Moollahs +reading out portions of the Korān to their attentive scholars, +with a grave countenance and a loud nasal twang, exciting a +propensity to laughter which I with difficulty repressed. I do not +think the reasoning of the college is very deep, or that the +talents of its senior wrangler need be very first-rate, and am +inclined to suspect that this pompous reading was got up for the +occasion for the purpose of astonishing the weak intellects of the +Feringhee strangers.</p> + +<p>From the college we proceeded to the slave market, which was +well furnished, and chiefly supplied from the ever victimized +Huzarehs; the women were generally ill-favoured, but all appeared +contented with their lot so that <i>somebody</i> purchased them. +After making the tour of the city in search of wonders, we returned +home, hot, wearied, and disappointed, for we had found nothing to +repay us for the annoyances we had been subjected to from the +impertinent curiosity of the filthy multitude. Our own intentions +were to get away from Koollum in order to be able to reach Balkh +and return to Cābul before the cold weather should set in; but +alas! our wishes were not destined to be fulfilled. Our uneasiness +concerning the real intentions of the Meer was again excited +towards the evening, for one of our followers came to us almost +frantic with terror, stammering out as soon as his nervous state +permitted him to speak, that he had heard it stated as a notorious +fact that we were all to be detained at Koollum––that +such was the pleasure of the Meer. The reader will believe that +this intelligence was any thing but satisfactory; I could not help +conjuring up visions of a long and wearisome +captivity––of hope deferred and expectations +disappointed––with Stoddart's melancholy situation as a +near precedent. I managed to make myself for a short time as +thoroughly uncomfortable as if I were already a prisoner, but soon +a sense of the great foolishness of indulging in this tone of +thought came over me, and making a strong effort to shake off the +gloomy shadows of an imaginary future, I betook myself to consider +the best means of ascertaining, in the first instance, the truth of +the report, which if I had done so at once would have saved me a +good deal of painful thought. As a preliminary step I desired a +couple of our Affghān escort to proceed, so as not to excite +suspicion, to the bourj or <i>watch tower</i> in the centre of the +defile by which we had approached Koollum, and through which our +only retreat must have been, to ascertain if the post was occupied +by any of the Meer's people. They soon brought us the satisfactory +intelligence that not a man was to be seen; but the Affghāns +qualified their information by persisting in their opinion that +some treachery was intended. So strong was this feeling amongst our +men that it became imperatively necessary that our doubts should be +resolved into certainty one way or the other, and Sturt and I, +after a short consultation, determined that at the interview which +was to take place next morning we should put the question to the +chief categorically. Having come to this conclusion, we were +obliged to smoke the "pipe of patience" on the "couch of +uncertainty" till the Meer Walli arrived.</p> + +<p>The Meer made his appearance the following morning, and, after +the usual compliments, to our great astonishment himself touched on +the subject. "I have heard," said he, "that you have sent out spies +to see if the Bourj in the defile is occupied, and if any of my +people are abroad to restrain your movements." This was rather an +ominous commencement: "but," continued the old gentleman, "if such +had been my intention, could I not have put the whole of you into +confinement the moment you arrived? At all events, what could you +and your party do against my force?" Sturt glanced his eye at the +speaker; for an instant, too, it rested on me, as if to read my +opinion; then he boldly answered, "You may outnumber us by +thousands, but you will never capture us alive." He said this so +calmly, with such politeness of manner, and yet so firmly, that the +Meer was evidently taken aback: at length he replied, "But no such +piece of villainy has ever entered my head." He then adroitly +changed the subject, and shortly after took his leave.</p> + +<p>When he was gone we held another council of war. It was by no +means clear that the last declaration of the chief was a sincere +one; but it might have been a temporizing answer elicited by the +perhaps unexpected boldness of Sturt's remark. We determined, at +all events, to keep on the alert, guard against any surprise, avoid +as much as possible offering any pretext for offence, and, if the +worst came to the worst, make as good a resistance as we could.</p> + +<p>The next day we received a polite message, requesting an +interview, and asking us to visit him in his favourite garden. +Under all circumstances we deemed it best to allow it to appear +that our suspicions were dissipated, and we accordingly accepted +the invitation, and found the Meer seated on the chabooka, or +<i>raised platform of masonry</i>, under the shade of some +magnificent trees. He immediately commenced saying, "The reason I +did not go out to meet you as you approached my city is, that +during the warm weather I sleep the greater portion of the day and +sit up enjoying the coolness of the night air; but I sent a +messenger to escort you in with all care, and unfortunately <i>he +missed the way</i>." Such an excuse was possible, but not at all +probable. We did not give him credit for telling the truth about +the guide, as there was only one road from Heibuk, and the approach +of our party to Koollum was known in the city several days before +our arrival. It was now evident to us that on our approach the Meer +Walli was undecided whether he should treat us as friends or foes; +it seemed that for the present he had determined in our favour, but +distrusting his capricious disposition we were only the more +anxious to get out of his reach, though we both agreed that the +wisest and safest plan would be to carry our heads very high and +put a bold front upon all our proceedings. This decision we came to +whilst sitting in the garden in the presence of the Meer. Suddenly +we heard a confused murmur behind us, and the heavy sound of the +butt end of several muskets striking the ground as in "ordering +arms;" we turned sharply round, and perceived with astonishment, +not unmingled with satisfaction, that six or eight of our +Affghān guard, notwithstanding the numerous followers round +the Meer, had entered the garden of their own accord and placed +themselves immediately in our rear with bayonets fixed. The Meer +appeared to take no notice of this extraordinary intrusion, and +after a few compliments permitted us to withdraw.</p> + +<p>On returning to the caravanserai we inquired why the guard had +acted thus without orders; they told us they had secretly heard +that treachery was intended by the Meer towards us, and that +therefore they had deemed it their duty to protect us from any +surprise; moreover, that ten more of the guard had been stationed +close outside the garden ready to support them at a moment's +notice. Our own opinion was that at that time nothing of the kind +was in contemplation, but it was satisfactory to view the +determined spirit which animated our men. Strange anomaly that +these very men who now came voluntarily forward to protect our +persons from insult at the imminent risk of their lives, should +have been found amongst those who, with their arms and +accoutrements, had deserted in a body from the British to the side +of the Ex-Ameer at the battle of Bameeān a few months +after.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIV">XIV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>Pursuant to our plan of appearing to have full confidence in the +Meer Walli's integrity of purpose, we affected to lay aside all +personal precaution and courted his society, of which, to say +truth, he seemed disposed to give us plenty. We had several +interviews with him,––indeed, hardly a day passed +without his sending for and honouring us with his presence for +several hours.</p> + +<p>During these meetings we used every endeavour to sound the chief +as to his intentions with respect to us, without betraying an undue +anxiety on the subject, but could make very little out of him.</p> + +<p>Our conversation frequently turned on military matter, and many +very pertinent questions were put to us relative to our rank, pay, +duties, discipline, &c. On Sturt informing him that he was in +the engineer department, and that his particular duties were to +construct bridges, repair fortifications, superintend mining +operations, and furnish plans of attack, he was promptly asked, "In +how long a time do you think your army could take my fortress?" In +about a quarter of an hour, answered Sturt in his quiet way. "No, +no," said the Meer with some indignation, "I am sure you could not +do so in so short a time;" and then he paused, evidently making up +his mind to tell us a story. After a little, out it came. "That +Feringhis should take my fortress, the strongest in the world, in a +quarter of an hour is impossible, for it took me, with five hundred +horsemen, double that time." Then, apparently forgetting his anger +in the anxiety to recount his own exploits, he continued, "when I +took possession of this fort I left my army at a little distance, +and selecting a few expert warriors, I gallopped up to the gate of +the fortress, which I found <i>open</i>. I dashed in before the +enemy were alarmed, and immediately proclaimed that the place was +taken by the victorious Merr Walli. The fools believed me, and all +ran away. By-and-bye my army came up and marched quietly in."</p> + +<p>We had heard some time before that Dost Mahommed's eldest son, +Meer Ufzul Khan, was in Koollum, and it must be confessed that this +circumstance did not much contribute to our sense of security, for +we could not but feel that we might fairly expect he would not lose +so palpable an opportunity of doing us harm should he be so +disposed. One morning he sent us a polite message to request an +interview, which of course was readily granted. He came, looking +pale and sorrowful, and his tone and manner soon satisfied us that +his intentions were peaceable. After the usual compliments he +entered on the subject of his father's present position and +political prospects; he remarked that our <i>star was too +bright</i>, and assured us that his father was anxious to accede to +any terms which the British might think fit to impose short of +banishing him to India, and strongly urged us to write to our +Government to that effect. We explained to Ufzul Khan that we had +received no instructions to act in a political capacity, and that +any interference on our part with the affairs of the nation might +be looked upon by our superiors as an unwarrantable piece of +presumption. He seemed much disappointed at the reply, and, at +last, Sturt promised to write and mention the conversation to the +authorities, which he did. I am not certain whether he wrote to Dr. +Lord or Sir William M'Naghten, nor can be positive that his letter +ever reached its destination––at all events, it was of +no avail. Ufzul Khān endeavoured to persuade us to remain at +Koollum till his father should arrive, who, he said, had escaped +from his prison at Bokhara by the assistance of the chief of Shere +Subz, as I have already noticed, and was now making his way to the +territories of the Meer Walli by a circuitous route, so as to elude +the vigilance of the king, and frustrate his endeavours to +recapture him. We were much pleased to find that Ufzul Khan had no +suspicion of our not being free agents, and Sturt answered he +regretted much that the shortness of the time we had yet at our +disposal would prevent his complying with his request, which, +indeed, considering all the circumstances of the case, it would +have been an act of most culpable folly to have acceded to. At the +conclusion of this interview Sturt presented him with a handsome +rifle, which he received with the utmost gratitude, saying that he +was now poor and had nothing to offer in return but his thanks, +which, however, he hoped we would believe to be sincere.</p> + +<p>No sooner had Meer Ufzul taken his leave than the Meer Walli +made his appearance with the evident intention of ascertaining the +results of our interview, and the part we were disposed to take in +any negociation concerning the Dost. The Meer was apparently +anxious to remain on good terms with both parties, or, in other +words, preferred having two strings to his bow. "Should the Dost +claim my protection," said he, "how would you advise me to +act?––He is your enemy, yet I must not abandon him, or +deliver him into the hands of the British; for, although I do not +wish to offend the British Government, I owe my present power to +the influence of the Ameer,––he has always been my +patron, and I must be his friend. And then, moreover, you are the +first British officers I have seen since your army took possession +of Affghanistān; no notice has been taken of me, the Meer +Walli of Koollum; yet, to the petty chiefs of Bameeān vakeels +and friendly messages have been sent, with valuable +presents––while, to my repeated letters courting an +amicable alliance, not even an answer has been +given.––Is it courteous to treat an inferior +so?––Is it the conduct generally adopted by the first +nation in the world? The doubtful way in which your Government has +behaved leaves me uncertain as to how my conduct will be +interpreted,––but, if <i>you</i> will represent that +the Meer Walli wishes to be on terms of amity, I shall consider you +as my best friends. Indeed, I would have it known I wish to remain +as neutral as possible in any political struggle that may take +place."––Here he paused, as if expecting some answer +which would be a guide to him, but, receiving none, he at length +continued: "I will receive the Dost and be kind to him until he +recovers from the fatigues of his journey, and then will beg him to +leave Koollum."––It was obvious enough that a +consideration for himself was the only motive which really +influenced our worthy guest, who, it was clear, would gladly have +betrayed his former patron if he could have induced us to guarantee +an adequate reward to himself. Of course we did not feel authorised +to hold out any such prospect, and endeavoured to convince him of +the truth that we were not employed in any political capacity, and +could not possibly interfere without exposing ourselves to severe +animadversions from our superiors. I could not but feel the truth +of the Meer's remarks on our policy in conciliating the petty +chiefs, whilst the friendly overtures of the more powerful were +treated almost with insulting neglect.</p> + +<p>From the expression of the Meer's sentiments during this +interview, we concluded that, however great a rascal his highness +might eventually prove, still his present policy was to be on good +terms with us, and all anxiety on our part as to being forcibly +detained was allayed, so that we began now seriously to determine +on our future proceedings. As one of the principal objects I had in +view on joining Sturt was to procure coins and those relics of +antiquity so abundant in the neighbourhood of Balkh, I was most +anxious to prosecute my journey hither, and accordingly took an +opportunity of explaining to the Meer my wishes and intentions, +requesting him to furnish me with an adequate escort for my +protection. He evinced a decided unwillingness to facilitate my +advance, treating my anxiety to collect coins as an assumed reason +to conceal some other more important motive. This was very +provoking, but, by this time, we were so much accustomed to have +the true and simple account of our plans and intentions treated +with civil incredulity, that we felt almost disposed to allow the +frequent insinuations of our concealed political character to +remain uncontradicted––so useless were all our +endeavours to satisfy the natives as to our real position. In vain +I urged upon the Meer the emptiness of all his professions of +friendship if he now declined to assist me in the manner I clearly +pointed out; all was of no avail; on the contrary, the more urgent +I became the more obstinate he grew, and I at last was painfully +convinced, not only that he disbelieved me, but that he had not the +slightest intention of permitting us to proceed across his frontier +in the direction of the territories of the King of +Bokhārā. He objected that it was a long journey from +Cābul to Balkh merely to pick up "rubbish;" and though the +actual danger was only for a short space, yet, if any accident +happened, if, as he declared was highly probable, we were seized +and carried into slavery, he should have to answer to the British +Government. His horsemen too would be an insufficient protection +against an attack from the numerous hordes of thieves who infested +the desert, and would surely be on the alert to pounce upon so +valuable a booty. He continued repeating these arguments till we +lost all hope of persuading him, and not deeming it advisable to +risk a rupture of our present apparently good understanding, we +reluctantly submitted and turned our thoughts homewards.[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: The anxiety I have here shewn to +procure the escort from the Meer will perhaps appear uncalled for, +but those who delight in numismatological specimens will agree with +me that the disappointment was not trifling, as only a few +travellers had succeeded in obtaining rare coins, and I had every +reason to believe other varieties were to be found.]</p> + +<p>No sooner was it rumoured in the bazaar that we were about to +return to Cabul, than several Hindoo bankers waited upon us to pay +their respects and offer whatever sums of money we might require +for the journey. They were all very anxious to lend, and were much +dissatisfied at the insignificant amount of the cash we required, +though the only security was a written promise that we would pay +the amount to a certain banker in Cabul on our return; they offered +us as much as ten thousand rupees, and appeared very anxious to +avail themselves of the opportunity of sending money to Cabul. At +all events their confidence was a gratifying proof of the high +estimation in which the British name was held in that remote +country.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h5>Fac-Simile Drawings of <a name="Ancient_Coins">Ancient +Coins</a> found in Toorkisthan and Affghanistan,<br /> +in the possession of Capt. Burslem.</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> +<h6>Description of Coins.</h6> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 1"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin1.jpg" width="78" height="159" alt="Coin 1" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 1.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A Bactrian coin: +legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from the Greek lettering, +Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a tuckt or throne, with +his right arm extended.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 2"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin2.jpg" width="81" height="169" alt="Coin 2" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 2.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A square copper +coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek +lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, holding in one +hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse bears Pelhvic +characters.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 3"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin3.jpg" width="80" height="162" alt="Coin 3" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 3.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="90%" valign="top">A square copper +coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus megal] +is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the Great, of which I have +no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he reigned in Bactria 181 +B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, with the figures of two +warriors mounted.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 4"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin4.jpg" width="75" height="152" alt="Coin 4" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 4.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square silver +coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the inscription, +[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. The +reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 5"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin5.jpg" width="71" height="137" alt="Coin 5" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 5.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square copper +coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is a woman holding a +flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to be a Kanirkos +coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 6"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin6.jpg" width="66" height="134" alt="Coin 6" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 6.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A round silver +Indo-Scythian coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 7"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin7.jpg" width="60" height="118" alt="Coin 7" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 7.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A square silver +coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an elephant, with the +Bactrian monogram beneath––[Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The +characters and figures on this coin are very distinct.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 8"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin8.jpg" width="56" height="113" alt="Coin 8" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 8.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">Another coin of +Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis elevated: legend, +[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros Menandrou]. On the +reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable coin.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Coin 9"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/coin9.jpg" width="48" height="89" alt="Coin 9" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 9.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A gold coin, +supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The legend begins with +Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a naked figure, with +the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but in copper, have +been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. Lady Sale +considers this coin to be a great beauty and of value.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table width="100%" summary="Illustration - Gemstone"> +<tr> +<td width="10%"><img src="images/gem.jpg" width="50" height="37" alt="Gemstone" border="0" /><br /> +</td> +<td width="2%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 10.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A gem found in the +plain of Buggram.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XV">XV.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>After a most friendly parting interview with the Meer Walli, +when he presented us with a horse and baggage pony, we started from +Koollum on the 22nd of July, accompanied, by the Meer's special +directions, by one of his confidential servants to act ostensibly +as our guide, but who, probably, had also his secret instructions +to report on all such of our proceedings as might in any way affect +the interests of his master.</p> + +<p>We proposed to diverge from the route by which we had advanced, +at Heibuk, passing through Ghoree, in the territories of the +Koondooz chief, and returning to Badjghār by the Dushti +Suffaed pass, which Start was very anxious to survey.</p> + +<p>Our first day's march brought us to Hazree Sultan, and the next +morning we reached Heibuk, where we were cordially welcomed by our +old friend Meer Baber Beg, and had again to undergo the infliction +of that detestable compound of grease, flour, salt, and tea, which +the Meer in his hospitality was always pressing us to swallow.</p> + +<p>On our departure the next morning, he sent us a present of a +horse; an indifferent one, 'tis true, but, at least, it marked his +kindly feeling; he warned us not to delay longer than was +absolutely necessary in the country of Meer Moorad Beg, whom he +described in no very flattering terms; and he, moreover, cautioned +us against the Koondooz fever, which he declared would inevitably +attack us if we were not very careful in selecting our encamping +ground at a distance from the pestilential marshes which skirted +the bases of the hills. We thanked him for his friendly advice, and +started for Rhobāt, where we arrived after a dismal ride of +twenty-two miles. The country through which we travelled was +perhaps the most dreary portion of Toorkisthān; for about +twelve miles we traversed a dry low grass jungle of about a foot in +height, tenanted by a species of wild goat, several of which we +disturbed on our passage through their haunts, but not being +prepared for any sport, I did not take advantage of their +unwariness.</p> + +<p>The road was utterly devoid of water for a space of full sixteen +miles, at the end of which we came upon a scanty supply, scarce +sufficient for our immediate necessities and utterly inadequate for +a force of any magnitude. The pista tree, the fruit of which is +carried to the Indian market, was seen here in considerable +quantities; it is very similar in its growth and foliage to the +Dauk of Hindoostan.</p> + +<p>The <i>assa fœtida</i> shrub also abounded on the +neighbouring hills, and we were almost overpowered by the horrible +stench exhaled therefrom. It is collected in its wild state and +sent to Cābul and India, yielding a good profit to those who +pick it, as it is used very generally throughout the East for +kabobs and curries. We also observed, that day, several coveys of +chikore.</p> + +<p>At Rhobat is an old caravanserai for travellers, the remains of +a very fine and extensive building, with accommodation and +apartments all round the square of about twenty-four yards. It is +said to have been constructed in the time of the famous Abdoollah +Khan, and was reduced to its present desolate state by Meer Moorad +Beg, the chief of Koondooz, who some years ago ravaged the whole of +this district, burning and laying waste whatever he could not carry +off.</p> + +<p>On the 25th of July we marched to Ghoree, a distance of about 21 +miles. As we approached it, we enjoyed a fine prospect of the +extensive savannahs of grass so characteristic of Toorkisthān; +many horses were feeding in the distance, and the vale, flanked by +low hills, was bounded only by the horizon. We were told that it +extended in a right line upwards of thirty miles, and that it was +frequently used for horse-racing, the customary length of the +course being upwards of twenty miles. We were now in the +territories of Meer Moorad Beg, a chief of notorious character, +but, trusting to the continuance of the good fortune which had +hitherto attended us, we did not make ourselves uncomfortable about +him. We could not much admire his town of Ghoree, which, with his +fort, was situate on the edge of a morass extending from the limits +of the savannah to the foot of the hills––I should +think that the fever so prevalent in these districts must be in a +great degree attributable to the absolute want of drainage and the +decomposition of vegetable matter. Its position was most +insalubrious, for the marshy swamps commenced at the very base of +hills, and thus as it were encircled the savannahs with a belt of +miasma.</p> + +<p>The ague, which is usually accompanied by fever, is of a kind +very difficult to shake off, gradually weakening the sufferer till +he sinks under its influence; the natives themselves are by no +means free from its strokes, to which attacks every stranger who +remains for many days in the vicinity of the marshes is liable. +Though a veil of mystery still covers the particulars of poor +Moorcroft's fate, it seems more than probable that he fell a victim +to the fever of this country, though the seed that was sown did not +mature till some time after he had quitted it.</p> + +<p>The fort of Ghoree has great strength, being on a level with the +adjacent country and surrounded by a wet ditch thirty feet wide and +very deep; its stagnant water teemed with fish of a large size, but +I had no opportunity of ascertaining their species. There was a +rude drawbridge across the moat, and the dwellings around the fort +were temporary hovels composed of straw; so suspicious were the +occupants of our intentions that they would not allow us access to +the interior of the fort. While reposing at the door of my tent on +the evening of our arrival at Ghoree, I was accosted by an old man, +with the usual request for a little medicine, as one of his family +was afflicted with rheumatism; I gave from our now much reduced +medicine chest what I thought at least could do no harm, and +endeavoured, as was my custom, to engage the old gentleman in +conversation. I have before mentioned the propensity of these +people for <i>story-telling</i>, and I much fear that when, with +their native acuteness in discriminating character, they detect an +anxiety on the part of the questioner for old stories, no +difficulty exists in the concoction of one for him. In the case now +alluded to, I beg to assure my readers that I do not in the +slightest degree pledge myself for the veracity of the story which +the old man related to me. I should not like even to say that the +customs to which he alluded were really "<i>bonâ fide"</i> +the customs of his country; however, I give it as it was related, +nothing doubting that it will be received with due caution, and, at +all events, though it may not be received as a legend really +characteristic of Toorkisthān weddings, it has indisputable +claims to illustrate the habits of Toorkisthān +<i>story-tellers</i>.</p> + +<p>I was remarking to him on the beauty and extent of his +savannahs, and, in assenting to what I said, he observed that they +were frequently the theatre of wedding races; having soon engaged +my attention, he proceeded to narrate the following story, founded +perhaps on the numerous outrages of which the despised Huzareh +tribe were the victims.</p> + +<p>"Far up in one of the numerous valleys of the Yakkoollung +country," he commenced, "resided an ancient couple, whose +occupation throughout the summer day consisted in storing food for +the winter season, and who, when their work was finished, continued +mournfully to dwell on the all-absorbing subject of the forcible +abduction of their daughter by one of the Uzbeg chiefs.</p> + +<p>"Two years and more had now passed since the outrage was +perpetrated by a party of Uzbeg horsemen, who, ever bent on plunder +and bloodshed, made an incursion into the valley, visiting the +different forts at the time when the male inhabitants were employed +in the labour of cultivation, and seizing numerous youths and +maidens. On the occasion alluded to, among the number of victims +was the only daughter of the aged Huzareh peasants, who was +considered amongst her tribe as a perfect Peri––'A maid +with a face like the moon, scented like musk, a ravisher of hearts, +delighting the soul, seducing the senses, and beautiful as the full +moon,' She was placed for security behind one of the best mounted +of the robbers, whilst the other helpless wretches were driven +unresistingly before the horsemen like a flock of sheep, till the +abductors reached their own independent territory.</p> + +<p>"Before the close of that ill-fated day, the mothers and +relations of the stolen were rushing in frantic despair through the +fields, announcing to the husbands and fathers the misfortune which +had overtaken them.</p> + +<p>"The men immediately quitted their work, and armed only with +their implements of labour pursued the ravishers for many a mile; +but what could they do on foot against so many horsemen? Perhaps it +was fortunate for them that they could not overtake the robbers, +for they would only have become additional victims. They returned +home to bewail their unhappy fate and curse the cruel authors of +their misery.</p> + +<p>"It happened about a year afterwards that the old man's son +returned from Candahār, to enjoy, as he anticipated, a few +weeks' happiness with his aged parents and blooming sister; but no +sooner had he crossed the threshhold and received the blessing of +his trembling parents, than he was made aware of the desolation +that had passed over his house. Vowing vengance on the perpetrators +of this foul act, and calling down the anger of heaven on all the +generation of Uzbegs, the brave Azeem left his home, and abandoning +all hopes of repose, busied himself in collecting a band of +athletic and desperate young men, who swore on the Korān their +determination to have revenge or perish in the attempt. Young Azeem +was unanimously chosen commander of the party, and the next morning +at break of day, without further preparation beyond taking a small +supply of food, they started on their journey. Travelling long +days, and resting short nights in the crevices of the mountains, +after eighteen days' toil, they at length reached a part of +Tartary, distant only two days' march from the fort belonging to +the robber Uzbegs who had so cruelly injured them. It now became +necessary to advance with more circumspection, as they could no +longer depend upon the peasants for protection in the less friendly +country they had reached, so separating into several small parties +they approached stealthily the Uzbeg fort; some kept the hills on +either side, while the rest followed the winding of the grassy +plains. Thus proceeding, they formed a kind of circle round the +fort, so that they could notice the ingress or departure of its +tenants on every side. The fort appeared too strong for an open +attack, and when, at night, the leaders of the detached parties +assembled to discuss their future plans and to report what they had +seen during the day, it was determined to lie in ambush another day +for the chance of the main body of the Uzbegs quitting their fort +on some foray, so that they would have a better chance, should it +become necessary to attack it. Providence seemed to favour their +designs, for early next morning considerable parties of Uzbegs were +seen issuing from the fort and proceeding towards a large savannah, +where some festival was evidently in preparation––for, +from the quantity of women and children who accompanied the +horsemen, it was clear that fighting was not the business of the +day.</p> + +<p>"Anxiously did Azeem and his followers watch the movements of +their unsuspecting enemy, and soon, from the nature of the +preparations going forward, they discovered that a wedding race was +about to take place. It was instantly determined to allow the +ceremony to proceed, and the capture of the bride was to be the +signal for all the Huzarehs to rush in and carry out their +object.</p> + +<p>"And now the suitors of the maiden, nine in number, appear in +the field, all unarmed, but mounted on the best horses they can +procure; while the bride herself, on a beautiful Turkoman stallion, +surrounded by her relations, anxiously surveys the group of lovers. +The conditions of the bridal race were these:––The +maiden has a certain start given, which she avails herself of to +gain a sufficient distance from the crowd to enable her to manage +her steed with freedom, so as to assist in his pursuit the suitor +whom she prefers. On a signal from the father all the horsemen +gallop after the fair one, and whichever first succeeds in +encircling her waist with his arm, no matter whether disagreeable +or to her choice, is entitled to claim her as his wife. After the +usual delays incident upon such interesting occasions, the maiden +quits the circle of her relations, and putting her steed into a +hand gallop, darts into the open plain. When satisfied with her +position, she turns round to the impatient youths, and stretches +out her arms towards them, as if to woo their approach. This is the +moment for giving the signal to commence the chace, and each of the +impatient youths, dashing his pointed heels into his courser's +sides, darts like the unhooded hawk in pursuit of the fugitive +dove. The savannah was extensive, full twelve miles long and three +in width, and as the horsemen sped across the plain the favoured +lover became soon apparent by the efforts of the maiden to avoid +all others who might approach her.</p> + +<p>"At length, after nearly two hours' racing, the number of +pursuers is reduced to four, who are all together, and gradually +gaining on the pursued; with them is the favourite, but alas! his +horse suddenly fails in his speed, and as she anxiously turns her +head she perceives with dismay the hapless position of her lover; +each of the more fortunate leaders, eager with anticipated triumph, +bending his head on his horse's mane, shouts at the top of his +voice, "I come, my Peri; I'm your lover." But she, making a sudden +turn, and lashing her horse almost to fury, darts across their +path, and makes for that part of the chummun, <i>plain</i>, where +her lover was vainly endeavouring to goad on his weary steed.</p> + +<p>"The three others instantly check their career, but in the hurry +to turn back two of the horses are dashed furiously against each +other, so that both steeds and riders roll over on the plain. The +maiden laughed, for she well knew she could elude the single +horseman, and flew to the point where her lover was. But her only +pursuer was rarely mounted and not so easily shaken off; making a +last and desperate effort he dashed alongside the maiden, and, +stretching out his arm, almost won the unwilling prize; but she, +bending her head to her horse's neck, eluded his grasp and wheeled +off again. Ere the discomfited horseman could again approach her +her lover's arm was around her waist, and amidst the shouts of the +spectators they turned towards the fort.</p> + +<p>"Alas! this was the agreed signal amongst the Huzarehs, who, +screened by the undulations of the savannah or hidden in the +watercourses, had been anxiously awaiting the event. With a +simultaneous shout they rush in upon the unprepared multitude, and +commence an indiscriminate massacre; but short was their success, +for a distant party of Uzbegs were observed rapidly gallopping to +the scene of action, and the Huzarehs were compelled to retire, +their spirit for vengeance yet unslaked. The panic their sudden +onslaught had caused was so great that they might all have retired +unmolested had not Azeem suddenly recognized his sister amongst a +group of females who were being hurried towards the fort. +Regardless of the almost certain death that awaited him he rushed +to embrace her, but hardly had he clasped her in his arms when the +chief of the harem drove his Persian dagger through his back. At +sight of this all thoughts of further revenge were abandoned, and +the Huzarehs hastily quitting the field made the best of their way +home, not without having, though at the expense of the life of +their leader, inflicted a severe punishment on the invaders of +their peaceful country,"[*]</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: Clark, in his Travels in Russia and +Tartary, describes the ceremony of marriage among the Calmucks as +performed on horseback.</p> + +<blockquote>"The girl is first mounted and rides off at full speed. +Her lover pursues, and if he overtakes her she becomes his wife, +and the marriage is consummated on the spot; after which she +returns with him to his tent. But it sometimes happens that the +woman does not wish to marry the person by whom she is pursued, in +which case she will not suffer him to overtake her; and we were +assured that no instance occurs of a Calmuck girl being caught, +unless she has a partiality for her pursuer. If she dislikes him +she rides, to use the language of an English sportsman, 'neck or +nothing,' until she has completely escaped, or until the pursuer's +horse is tired out, leaving her at liberty to return, and to be +afterwards chased by some more favourite admirer."]</blockquote> + +<p>Such was the old man's tale; whether the offspring of his +fertile imagination, or actually founded upon fact, so plausible +did it appear, and so much interested was I in his narration, that +it became forcibly imprinted on my memory, and I have minutely +followed him in its details.</p> + +<p>The morning after our arrival at Ghoree several of our followers +were taken ill, and as all were in great dread of the Koondooz +fever, a considerable alarm prevailed in our small camp. We did not +at first think much of the sickness, which we attributed to too +free an indulgence in the Koondooz melon, which is of a very large +size, and equal in flavour to those of Cabul. We therefore +determined to remain a day or two at Ghoree, in the hopes of a +favourable change taking place. But on the third day it was evident +that the Koondooz fever had really made its appearance, and several +of the guard and servants, to the number of twenty and upwards, +were so much weakened as to be unable to proceed. In this dilemma +we deemed it advisable not to remain any longer in the vicinity of +the marshes, and resolved to proceed with such of our men as were +still healthy, to survey the Dushti Suffaed Pass, already alluded +to. We determined on leaving the sick and the greater portion of +our baggage behind, and despatched a letter to Meer Moorad Beg, +requesting permission for them to remain at Ghoree till our return, +which we hoped would not be delayed beyond a few days. The ruler of +Koondooz civilly acceded to our request, and sent us many friendly +messages, but hardly sufficient to dispel our uneasiness at leaving +even for so short a time such temptation for the gratification of +his predatory propensities; but we had the choice of two +evils––our time was so short that if we all remained +together at Ghoree, not only might the ravages of the fever become +more serious, but the opportunity would be lost of examining the +pass. Before leaving Ghoree we received a message from the governor +of the fort, apologizing for his inability to visit us, with the +excuse that there being much treachery and ill will in the +neighbourhood, he dare not quit his post, lest he fall under the +dreaded displeasure of Meer Moorad Beg.</p> + +<p>We now dismissed, with a dress of honour and letter of thanks, +the <i>confidential</i> man whom the Meer Walli of Koollum had +ordered to accompany us, and leaving the greater part of our +medicine chest for the use of the sick, we started on the 28th of +August. Before our departure we received a further proof of the +friendly disposition of Moorad Beg, in the shape of a beautiful +Toorkmān saddle, not larger than an English racing one; the +flaps were richly embroidered, and the steel pommel was inlaid with +inscription in gold of sentences from the Korān.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVI">XVI.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>We were now about to explore a part of Toorkisthān which I +have reason to believe had never been visited by Europeans; the +distance between Ghoree and Badjgh[=]ar is about eighty miles, +across as wild and romantic a country as can well be conceived, +consisting of a succession of difficult and in some places perilous +defiles; the last of these was the famous Dushti Suffaed, which +leads to Badjghār. There is a sameness in the features of +these Toorkisthān passes which renders a faithful description +tedious, from its monotony and the necessary repetition of similar +characteristic features; yet the reader will hardly fail to draw +important conclusions from the immense difficulty and almost +practical impossibility that a modern army of considerable numbers, +with all its incumbrances, through such a country, with any hope of +its retaining its efficiency or even a tithe of its original +numerical strength, will encounter. And when we consider that the +passes of Toorkisthān embrace only a small part of the +distance to be traversed by an army from the west, we may well +dismiss from our minds that ridiculous impression, once so +unfortunately prevalent in India, that is now justly denominated +<i>Russophobia</i>. What a fearful amount of human suffering might +have been averted! what national disgrace might have been avoided! +and what millions of treasure saved, had the authorities in India +but examined the practicability of an invasion which Russia had too +much wisdom ever seriously to contemplate!</p> + +<p>But to return to our wanderings. As I said before, we left +Ghoree early in the morning of the 28th, and soon reached the foot +of the hills, ascending a narrow valley which gradually contracted +into a rocky ravine. As we traversed the higher levels all +vegetation ceased, excepting the Pista tree already alluded to; yet +there must have been some herbage in the gullies, as we saw several +flocks of wild goats, so wild indeed that it was impossible to get +within rifle range of them. We had heard of a place called +Shullāctoo, within the distance of a day's march, and +conceiving naturally that it was a habitation of men, we determined +to pass the night there. As the evening advanced, the aspect of the +country assumed a still wilder and more desolate character, our +cattle began to show symptoms of distress, and as the hills were +apparently destitute of water, we became a little uneasy regarding +the nature of our billet. A sudden turn of the ravine brought us to +a small open space, without a blade of grass or a vestige of any +thing human, which our guide complacently informed us was +Shullāctoo, a mere "locus standi." After the first feeling of +dismay had subsided, we recollected that we had a small supply of +food for our horses; and water being now found for the first time +since we entered the hills,––and we had come a good +sixteen miles,––we determined not to proceed further, +so pitching our little tent we made ourselves as comfortable as +circumstances would admit.</p> + +<p>On the 29th we marched, a distance of fourteen miles, to a small +fort called Keune. But I unfortunately commenced the day's work by +losing my way amongst the rocks, with some of the guard: after +wandering for some hours, surrounded by scenery the grandeur of +which I should better have appreciated under different +circumstances, one of the Affghān soldiers hit upon a pathway, +and seeing a man in the distance, he made for, and, seizing him in +the most unceremonious manner, brought him to me. The poor fellow +was in the greatest state of alarm; he had evidently never seen a +Feringhi before, and fancied that his last hour had arrived. I put +a rupee into his hand, and endeavoured to make him understand that +we were neither robbers nor murderers, but travellers who had lost +their way; he was naturally incredulous, for certainly our +appearance gave but small indication of our respectable +character.[*] At length we were obliged to intimate that his fears +might be realized unless he showed us the way to Keune, which we +eventually reached in the evening, much exhausted with our +excursion.</p> + +<p class="smallprint2">[* Note: I was armed with a huge +old-fashioned sword of the 11th dragoons, purchased in the Cabul +bazaar, (marked D-XI Dr.) and clad in a green Swiss frock. I had a +coloured turban wound in copious folds round my head as a +protection from the sun, beard of nearly three months' growth, and +accompanied by a ferocious-looking tribe of Affghans, all unshorn +as well as myself, created anything but a prepossessing impression +to a stranger. The reader will not, therefore, feel surprised at +the man's hesitation in meeting us.]</p> + +<p>The chief of the fort at first declined furnishing us with any +supplies, though we offered liberal payment, declaring that he had +only sufficient for his own consumption; he, however, relented, and +sent us enough for our immediate wants. He afterwards came himself, +and informed us that we had acted very unwisely in mentioning at +Ghoree the route we proposed to follow, as one of the Sheikkallee +Huzareh chiefs, who was in a state of rebellion, had passed through +Keune the day before, and had stated that a party of Feringhis were +about to pass through his country with a quantity of odd looking +boxes filled with money, (alluding, I suppose, to the theodolite, +&c.) and that he would with his whole tribe waylay and rob us. +This was pleasant news, but we took the hint and determined to be +on our guard. In return for this piece of information, the +inhabitants of Keune expressed a desire to see the <i>Feringhis +feed</i>; rather a novel request, but one which we easily gratified +by striking the walls of the tent while we eat our dinner. The +natives squatted down in a circle outside the tent pins, and +watched every morsel we put into our mouths with the utmost +interest and with many exclamations of surprise and astonishment; +and when before retiring for the night we as usual had a skinful of +water poured over us, their wonder knew no bounds; they were +evidently but slightly acquainted with the use of water as applied +for the purposes of cleanliness.</p> + +<p>We left Keune at daybreak on the 30th, hoping to be able to make +our way to Badjghār, distant about forty-five miles, by +surmounting the Keune pass and proceeding down the Surruk Kulla +valley. The ascent was long and steep, the distance we had to +travel before reaching the summit being above thirteen miles; and +though we had been on the move nearly all day, such were the +difficulties of the pass that night overtook us shortly after we +had reached its crest.</p> + +<p>Not a sign of habitations or trace of cultivation was visible; +we had no corn for our cattle, but fortunately the more sheltered +spots in the vicinity of water were clothed with luxuriant grass, +which the horses greedily eat. Our followers had, with the +improvidence of Asiatics, brought but a scanty supply of food, and +indeed we were all to blame for having trusted too much to the wild +mountains for supplies. There were plenty of chikore, however, and +as I had succeeded in shooting two or three in the morning we were +not entirely without food; and having pitched our tent, we retired +to rest in the hope that the next day we should come upon some fort +where we might recruit.</p> + +<p>As we were preparing to start early on the morning of the 31st, +we met a traveller pursuing his solitary way to Keune, who, after +expressing his wonder at encountering a party of Feringhis in such +a place, inquired our proposed route. We informed him that our +intention was to proceed over the Surruk Kulla pass and make our +way to Badjghar, but he cautioned us not to attempt any such thing; +for though the road was better than the more direct one, called the +Espion Pass, it was infested by a robber tribe from whose hands he +had himself only escaped, not having any thing to lose.</p> + +<p>This unwelcome intelligence induced Sturt to change his plan, +and we agreed that having done our utmost to fulfil the wishes of +government in ascertaining the nature of the passes in the vicinity +of Badjghar, it was our duty to consult the safety of ourselves and +followers, and get them as soon as possible within reach of +protection. We had no food of any kind left, but after all we did +not anticipate much serious evil from a forced fast of forty-eight +hours; so, after rewarding our wanderer for his very seasonable +warning, we struck off to cross the Espion Pass. The event proved +how imminent had been our danger, for after reaching Badjghar we +were made aware that a large body of horsemen had assembled in the +Surruk Kullah valley for the purpose of attacking +us––that they had come up the road to meet us, and had +actually reached the point where we turned off about two hours +after us.</p> + +<p>We travelled the whole of the 31st August across a succession of +broken passes; so complicated were the valleys and so broken were +the range of hills, that we were unable to tell when we reached the +back-bone of the ridge, and we struggled on in doubt and difficulty +till we were again overtaken by the shades of night.</p> + +<p>Our cattle were quite exhausted; our followers grumbling, +dispirited, and frightened, the prospect of a second bivouac by no +means improving their discipline and insubordination.</p> + +<p>While I was endeavouring to pacify them by the only argument I +had at my disposal, founded on the principle of "<i>levius fit +patientiâ quidquid corrigere est nefas</i>," one of our +servants brought us the joyful news that from an eminence adjacent +he had discovered an abatta, or clump of blanket tents, surrounded +by cultivated land, about a mile off. Where tents were, food would +probably be obtainable; and as we were not in a condition to be +very particular as to the character of the inhabitants, we +immediately despatched an embassy with money to purchase whatever +edible substances they could procure. Our anxieties were now +relieved by the return of our mission, driving before them a couple +of very thin sheep, and carrying a small supply of corn for the +cattle. With this reasonable supply we made a tolerable meal, and +succeeded in putting the discontented into a better frame of +mind.</p> + +<p>We determined to make a push next morning for Badjghar, and +started before day-break for the Dushti Suffäed Pass, the +crest of which we reached after travelling a distance of about nine +miles over very bad ground. We were now "<i>en pays de +connoissance</i>," but our cattle were so much weakened by the work +and privations of the last three or four days, that we could not +attempt the long and difficult descent into the valley beneath. I +therefore rode on alone and reached Badjghar in a few hours. I +immediately visited Capt. Hay, and having procured a supply of +food, returned with it the same night to the party, much exhausted +with my trip, but satisfied now that there could be no further +cause for grumbling on the part of our followers.</p> + +<p>The state of our baggage-equipage next morning was so bad, that +Sturt thought it advisable to give them another day's rest, and he +went on himself to Badjghar; but in the course of the day I +received an express from him, stating that circumstances had +occurred which made it absolutely necessary for me to bring in the +whole party without delay. I knew Sturt too well to doubt the +urgency he represented, and in spite of lame legs, sore backs, +&c. I managed to bring all hands safe into Badjghar late on the +evening of the 2d of August. Our men were taken every care of, +(which indeed they required, as fever and ague had weakened them +much,) and in a few days all traces of their sufferings had +disappeared; but poor Sturt, who had been complaining for some days +before of great debility and headache, was seized on the morning of +the 3d with a violent attack of Koondooz fever, which soon +prostrated his strength and caused me some uneasiness. He weathered +the storm, however, and by the 11th was sufficiently recovered to +enable him to resume his duties.</p> + +<p>I have before mentioned, I think, that we had left some of our +followers and a considerable portion of our baggage at Ghoree, +intending to return to that fort after visiting the passes which I +have alluded to; but on our reaching Badjghar we found that the +clouds which had been gathering for some time past in the political +horizon had assumed so threatening an appearance that it would be +madness to attempt to prosecute our examination of the nature of +the country, when its wild and lawless population were in such an +excited state. The intentions of the Koondooz ruler were not known, +and we felt very anxious for the safety of the sick whom we had +been necessitated to leave at Ghoree, as in addition to his natural +sympathy for a fellow-creature's sufferings, Sturt feared that if +any misfortune befel them, he might, though unjustly, be accused of +having deserted them. His uneasiness was increased by receipt of a +letter from Ghoree from one of our people, in which it was stated +that the baggage we had left behind had been opened and some things +abstracted, and that they themselves were in imminent danger of +being seized and sold as slaves.</p> + +<p>After making every allowance for the exaggerations of fear, +there was still sufficient in this communication to aggravate poor +Start's difficulties; he was in doubt whether to assume a high +tone, or to endeavour by flattery to save his followers, and his +last act before the violence of the fever obliged him to succumb +was a firm but respectful letter which he wrote to Meer Moorād +Beg, in which he stated that reports inconsistent with that chief's +known good faith had reached him; that he had heard that his +property had been seized and his people threatened; that he was +sure they were lies invented by Moorād Beg's enemies to create +a bad feeling towards him; and that he requested the men and +property might be immediately forwarded safe to Cabul. Those who +are familiar with the vanity and punctiliousness on points of +etiquette of the chieftains of the Hindoo Khoosh will easily +conceive how much depended upon the wording of this letter.</p> + +<p>In the written intercourse between equals it is customary to put +the impression of the signet at the top of the sheet, but from an +inferior such an act would be considered as highly presumptuous. +Sturt, though advised to assume the humble tone, was resolute in +putting his seal at the beginning of the letter, and the event +proved that his judgment was as usual correct, for though (it was +stated) the chief of Koondooz was but a few months after in arms +against the British, yet our people and property were safely +forwarded to us at Cabul.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVII">XVII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>It was only after my arrival at Badjghar with the men that I +became acquainted with Sturt's reasons for requesting me to come in +without delay, Capt Hay was in daily expectation of the arrival of +a convoy from Bameeān with a supply of provisions, clothing, +and ammunition for the use of his regiment, and having received +information from one of the numerous spies, who gain a livelihood +by supplying information to <i>both</i> parties, that large bodies +of men were assembling in the Kammurd valley, through which the +convoy would have to pass, determined, though he did not attach +much credit to his informant, to despatch as strong a body as he +could spare to reinforce the escort. He accordingly sent out two +companies of the Goorkha regiment with directions to proceed to the +"Dundun Shikkun Kotul," there to meet the convoy and protect them +in their passage through the Kammurd valley. Such was the scarcity +of European officers, that Capt. Hay was obliged to intrust the +command of the force to the quarter-master-serjeant of his corps; +who, though unused to the management of so considerable a party in +the field, and who might have been excused if in the hour of need +his brain had not been as fertile of expedients as is generally +necessary in encounters of this kind, acquitted himself in a manner +that would have done credit to the best light infantry officer in +the service. I much regret that I cannot record his name, but +before being appointed to the Goorkha corps he was a +non-commissioned officer in the Bengal European regiment. He was +one of the many victims, I fear, of the year 1841, as I have been +unable to trace his career. Hundreds of brave European +non-commissioned officers met a similar fate, and are merely +noticed as having perished in the retreat from Cabul. The many acts +of coldblooded treachery which disgraced the Affghans, and which +ought to have opened the eyes of those in power to the absurdity in +trusting to their faith, were merged in the wholesale murders of +Khoord Cabul, Jugdulluk, and Gundummuk.</p> + +<p>I have before described the narrowness of the valley up to +Kammurd and the lofty ranges of precipitous hills by which it is +flanked; and the reader will perhaps recollect my noticing two +forts on either side of the river a little above Piedbāgh. It +was here that the Serjeant halted his party after the first day's +march, intending to proceed the next morning to the Dundun Shikkun +pass to meet the convoy. At day-light he was informed that the +expected convoy had not crossed the pass, and while forming his men +to proceed and ascertain whether the report was correct or +otherwise, he was suddenly attacked by large bodies of horse and +foot: the serjeant immediately took advantage of the ground to +protect his party from the heavy fire which was poured in from all +sides, and having observed that the enemy, whoever they were, were +in too great a force to leave him a chance of successfully +maintaining his position, which was commanded from several points, +he determined on retreating to Badjghar, a distance of about nine +miles. The valley was full of orchards divided by low walls, and +perhaps to a well-disciplined company of steady old soldiers with +plenty of officers, a retreat, even in the face of several hundred +Uzbegs, might have been effected without loss, by forming the whole +body into two lines of skirmishers, and retiring alternately; but +the serjeant knew too well the temper of his gallant little +mountaineers, who are more famous for bravery than judgment, to +trust the safety of his party to the success of a manoeuvre, the +chief point in which was to know when to retreat. His first line of +skirmishers would never have retired in order, taking advantage of +every natural obstacle of the ground for concealment, but would +have boldly confronted the cavalry and probably been destroyed to a +man. He therefore moved his Goorkhas in quarter distance column +steadily along the road, which luckily hugged the precipitous hills +on one side, so that the enemy could only avail themselves of the +valley on the other side of the road to attack him, the mountains +being so impracticable that while they attempted to climb them to +turn his flank he had already gained so much ground as to be out of +reach of even a "plunging" fire. In ordinary quick time did this +little band retire under a heavy though straggling fire from a +force many times more numerous than themselves. The serjeant was +enabled with difficulty to carry out his plan, which was, not to +return the enemy's fire, but to proceed steadily on till he could +suddenly take advantage of some protecting ledge of rock or orchard +wall behind which he could form his men and confuse the enemy by +pouring in a few volleys. He would then form quarter distance +columns of subdivisions again, and proceed in his retreat as +before. He had no misgivings as to the courage and firmness of his +men, for the Goorkhas have ever been noted for their dashing +bravery, and an incident soon proved how wisely he had judged in +not extending his men. While retiring, a chance shot killed a man +who happened to be a great favourite; his nearest comrades +immediately halted and faced about, and notwithstanding the +commands and entreaties of the serjeant; they determined to avenge +his death. Grouping themselves round the body of their dead +companion, they awaited the enemy, and when sure that every shot +would tell, each man delivered his fire, and then drawing his knife +with a yell of defiance, rushed upon hundreds of their foes; to +have supported them would have been to lead the whole party to +inevitable slaughter, and the authority of the +quarter-master-serjeant was scarce sufficient to restrain his men +from breaking from their cover to join the unequal fight: as it +was, the gallant little band were soon outnumbered, and after a +reckless and desperate resistance were literally hacked to pieces. +The enemy encouraged by this success now pressed hard upon the +Goorkhas, and had they been fortunate enough in getting round to +the front not a man would have escaped; as it was, the men were +falling very fast, when a happy occurrence changed the aspect of +affairs. It seems that a chief, conspicuous from his glittering +armour and steel head-piece, mounted on a powerful horse with an +armed footman behind him, attracted the notice of the Goorkhas by +the cool manner in which he rode up to within a distance of about +eighty yards, delivered his fire, then galloped away out of gunshot +to allow the gentleman "en croupe" to reload. A few of the men +having observed this manoeuvre repeated three or four times, +concealed themselves behind a rock, while the main body retired. On +came the chief to within his prescribed distance; a volley from +behind the rock scarce ten paces off rolled horse and man over and +over. The effect on the enemy was such that they kept at a more +respectful distance, and after a few random shots discontinued the +pursuit. Such was the account the serjeant himself gave me of the +fight, and I have no reason to suspect him of exaggeration. He +accomplished his arduous retreat with a loss of nineteen men +killed, but more than half this number voluntarily sacrificed +themselves to avenge the death of their comrade. It is difficult, +when relating the numerous acts of heroism of the Goorkha troops, +to refrain from drawing invidious comparisons between their conduct +and that of the Hindoo soldier during the retreat from Cabul; but +though it must be allowed that the despondency and mental +enervation which sometimes spreads like an epidemic among Sepoy +troops, must importantly deteriorate from their general character +as soldiers, still it must be recollected that the physical +constitution of the Hindoo incapacitates him from action under some +circumstances. Severe cold benumbs his faculties of mind as well as +body, and the nature of his ordinary food is such that unless the +supply is regular and sufficient his strength fails him; and again, +his belief in predestination is strong, and often a trivial reverse +will induce him to abandon himself to his fate. But in these days +the Hindoo soldier need not fear that his noble and gallant +qualities will not be understood or appreciated. Every good soldier +will honor the Hindoo for his patient endurance, his courage, and +fidelity.</p> + +<p>To turn to the convoy: the attempt was made to get the camels +laden with ammunition, stores, and provisions over the Dundun +Shikkun Pass; but the difficulties were found to be so great that +the escort and convoy returned to Syghān, and crossing the +Nulli Fursh Kotul, reached their destination.</p> + +<p>This was the first glaring instance of the state of the country, +and some people may well be astonished it was viewed by the +political authorities in so insignificant a light. But I will not +too much impose upon the patience of the reader by detailing the +execrable reasons which were put forth for the most absurd measures +during the twelve months preceding the annihilation of our +army.</p> + +<p>It was now evident to those who were not obstinately blind that +a general rising was contemplated; and a few days after our arrival +at Badjghar we heard that Dost Mahommed had arrived at Koollum, and +that after all his diplomacy our old friend the Meer Walli had +received him with open arms, and was now on his way to attack our +out-posts. The authorities were shortly afterwards aroused from +their apathy, the advanced troops were very properly withdrawn, the +gallant Col. Dennie was sent in command of a small but efficient +force to the head of the Bameeān valley, where, as has been +before detailed, he repulsed the combined forces of Dost Mahommed +Khan, the Meer Walli of Koollum, and all the Uzbeg chiefs.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XVIII">XVIII.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 12th of August we departed from Badjghar on our return to +Cābul, and I reached Bameeān by a forced march in two +days, preceding Sturt, who was still very weak and obliged to +travel more leisurely. I was very nearly suffering from my anxiety +to get on, for one of the laden Yabboos, being urged beyond what he +considered his lawful rate of progress, lashed out most furiously +with both hind legs; luckily, the flap of my saddle received the +full force of one of his heels, and the soft part of my leg the +other, which lamed me severely for a time.</p> + +<p>On the 22nd, Sturt having arrived, we made up our party to visit +the ruins of the Castle of Zohawk, distant about ten miles from +Bameeān. I was rewarded for my trouble, both from the +picturesque nature of the ruins themselves, and because I was +fortunate enough again to fall in with one of those professional +story-tellers from whom I have already largely quoted. I have +indeed listened to many more stories than I have ventured here to +insert; some I have rejected from the nature of their details, +others from there being a strong impression on my mind that they +were the extempore invention of the story-teller with a view to the +rupee, which he feared he would not secure if he confessed he had +nothing to relate. I have not perhaps been judicious in my +selection of those which I hoped would amuse the reader, but I have +done my best to choose for insertion those which differed the most +from each other; and I may be allowed to add as an excuse for my +apparent credulity regarding the tales themselves, that they are +implicitly believed by the inhabitants, so that, making allowance +for the corruption of tradition, the facts on which they are +founded in all probability did really occur.</p> + +<p>The ruins of the Castle of Zohawk are situated on a hill +commanding the high road from Toorkisthan over the Irāk and +Kalloo passes, and in the angle formed by the union of the +Bameeān and Irāk rivers. It is impossible to fix the date +of the first structure; it seems from the ruin to have been added +to at many successive epochs. The size of the towers appeared very +insignificant compared with the extent of ground which the building +at one time evidently covered, but perhaps the towers, though +small, were numerous. The only one now standing was situated high +up the hill, from which a covered passage partly cut through the +solid rock leads down to the water side. We had some trouble in +gaining the highest point of the ruins, as we were obliged to +scramble up the steep face of the precipice, still covered with the +remains of walls and bastions, which had been built up wherever the +ground was sufficiently level for a foundation. Many dreary-looking +cells attracted our notice amongst the ruins, and all the +information I could get was, that they were the abode of evil +spirits. My informant would, I do believe, have amused me for hours +with legends of the said spirits, and indeed every river and lake, +every mountain and valley in this district bears its peculiar +legend, always improbable, generally absurd, and though from that +very cause diverting for the moment, I fear that the naïve +taste amongst our "savans" which delighted in the history of Jack +the Giant-killer being fast on the wane, they would not be +gratified by a lengthy recital; but I must still take the liberty +of repeating as well as I could follow the vile jargon of my +narrator, a tale which he told me of the Castle of Zohawk while +standing on its ruins. He had evidently been accustomed to tell the +same story to others, or else I imagine that, in consideration of +our both being on the spot, he would have spared a description of +what I saw before my eyes. I give it to the reader as nearly as I +can in the narrator's words.</p> + +<p>"At the extreme end of a precipitous hill jutting out from the +main range of mountains at the junction of the Bameeān and +Irāk rivers, are the remains of an old castle called Zohawk, +after a noted freebooter, who, secure in the strength of his +fortress, was the terror of the surrounding villages, and lived by +rapine, pillage, and plunder of every kind. To a careless observer +the diminutive tower, which alone remains standing, would not +convey an adequate idea of the original extent of the castle; but +on a close examination the whole face of the mountain will be found +to be covered with ruined walls and roofless chambers, now the fit +abodes of devils of all sorts and denominations. Many hundreds of +years ago, before the invasion of Nadir Shah, Zohawk Khan occupied +the castle; he did not build it, but as it acquired an infamous +notoriety during his life-time, and has not been inhabited since, +it still bears the name of the ferocious robber, who with a band as +vicious as himself lived there for many years. Zohawk Khan was +originally an Huzareh peasant; he was seized while a child and +carried off in slavery to Toorkisthān, where his naturally +cruel and savage disposition was exasperated by ill-treatment and +fostered by the scenes of wickedness with which he was made +familiar. Being very cunning, he soon acquired influence amongst +his fellow slaves, and organized a conspiracy, in the fulfilment of +which his own master and many other Toorkomaun chiefs were put to +death under every refinement of torture. Zohawk at the head of the +rebel slaves then traversed the country, robbing the harmless +peasants, till he reached the vicinity of the castle, which still +bears his name. It was then inhabited by an old Huzareh chieftain, +who had formerly been a kind master to Zohawk's parents. Regardless +of the memory of past kindness, the ruffian determined to possess +himself of this place, and under the pretence of craving the +hospitality of the rightful owner, introduced himself and fellow +villains into the fortification. In the dead of the night, +according to a preconcerted plan, the robbers rose from their place +of rest, and stealing to the sleeping apartment of the chieftain, +murdered him; the affrighted garrison craved for life, but one +after another were placed in irons to be disposed of as slaves. The +freebooter, now master of the fortress, assumed the title of +Khān, and commenced that career of ruthless cruelty and +depravity which more than any thing else causes his name to be +remembered and his memory cursed by the present inhabitants of the +neighbourhood. The government of the self-styled Khān was a +reign of terror, and many were the nameless atrocities committed +within the walls of the castle. He had, however, one confidant, +whom he believed faithful, but who from interested motives +submitted to the savage passions of his master, and being the chief +eunuch of the harem, had great influence in that department. It was +the custom of Zohawk Khān to choose the autumn of the year for +the season of his predatory excursions, and it happened that, while +absent with the flower of his force on one of these death-dealing +expeditions, a conspiracy was set on foot, the principal agitator +being the eunuch of the seraglio. "It was determined that on the +evening when the chieftain was expected to return, a general feast +should be given to those remaining at home, with the double view of +rendering the men who had not joined in the conspiracy incapable +from the effects of debauchery in siding with Zohawk, and of +exasperating the ferocious chieftain, who was known to be averse to +any revelry during his absence. The favourite wife summoned all the +harem to a feast, whilst a copious allowance of intoxicating liquor +was served out to the minor portion of the garrison. The wine soon +produced the required effect, and in the midst of the revelry and +uproar the Khān appeared at his castle gate, and without +enquiring the cause of the tumult, instantly proceeded to the +harem, and lifting the Purdah stood in the presence of his wives. +'What is this?' said he, glancing savagely round.––'We +expected your return and have prepared a feast to welcome you,' was +the ironical reply of the favourite wife, who at the same time +trembling in her limbs scarce dared to face the enraged tyrant, 'It +is a lie, offspring of a Kaffir; you shall pay the penalty of your +disobedience of my orders. Here, Saleh, take her and throw her over +the battlements into the river;' but ere the reluctant eunuch could +enforce the cruel mandate, the woman raised her hand, and with a +small dagger pierced herself to the heart. Unmoved by her tragic +fate, Zohawk instantly commanded that four of the other women +should be dealt with in the same way, and seeing the eunuch +hesitate, drew his Persian blade and rushed at him; but ere the +sword fell, the knife of Saleh was sheathed in the ruffian's +breast. "The news of his death spread rapidly through the castle; +then followed the strife of war. The Khān's party, though in +number nearly double that of Saleh, were wearied with their recent +foray, and after a desperate conflict of three hours they were +driven into one of the wings of the castle, and butchered to a man. +Blood flowed in almost every apartment; broken swords, daggers, and +matchlocks lay in all directions, shewing how terrible the strife +had been. And now, when Zohawk's party had been exterminated, a +murmuring arose amongst the victors as to who should be the chief, +and Saleh, perceiving that he should gain nothing for the exertions +he had made, demanded permission to leave the castle, taking with +him as his sole share of booty his sister, who was an inmate of the +harem. His terms were immediately complied with, and the wary +eunuch lost no time in quitting the scene of blood.</p> + +<p>"Those remaining agreed to defer the election of a chief till +they had refreshed themselves after their labours: in the heat of +intoxication blood again flowed, and after passing the whole night +in drinking and fighting, morning appeared to eighteen survivors of +the fray. Each still claimed for himself the chieftainship, and +while still wrangling on the subject, one of the wounded partizans +of Saleh, unperceived by the drunkards, secreted a large bag of +powder in the room, and igniting it by a train with his slow match +crawled out of the castle.</p> + +<p>"The explosion was terrific; down toppled tower and bastion, +enveloping in their ruins the remainder of the garrison, and the +castle was in a few moments reduced to the shapeless mass which it +now presents.</p> + +<p>"The wounded author of the catastrophe alone escaped; but the +knowledge of his crimes prevented him from returning to his +country, and he wandered for many years about the blackened walls, +the terror of the neighbourhood, who considered him an evil spirit. +He subsisted on herbs growing on the adjacent mountains, till at +last he disappeared no one knew where. Since that period, the +fortress has never been the resting place of the traveller or the +haunt of the freebooter."</p> + +<p>Such was the terrible tale of blood and wounds which my +informant communicated to me, and certainly, if it rests its +foundation on any one of the horrors with which it is filled, the +castle of Zohawk does well deserve its bad repute.</p> + +<p>On the 23rd we left Bameeān and proceeded over the +Irāk pass to Oorgundee, where we arrived on the 28th. No event +occurred nor any thing worth mentioning, unless it be the +"naïveté" of an old man, who, observing me light my +cigar with a lucifer-match, asked in a grave and solemn tone, +whether that was indeed fire. I took his finger, and placed it in +the flame, much to his astonishment, but convincing him of its +reality. He then enquired if it was the fire from heaven, which he +heard the Feringhis were possessed of. I endeavoured, but I fear +without success, to explain to the old gentleman the nature of +fulminating substances, and though he listened with patience, he +was evidently still in the dark, when I presented him with the +contents of my match-box and shewed him how to ignite them; his +gratitude was manifest, as he walked off highly pleased with his +toy, which I hope may not have burned his fingers.</p> + +<p>Sturt left me on the 29th, being anxious to get back to Cabul; +but as I had three days to spare, and my taste for wandering was +still unabated, I joined Capt. Westmacott, of the 37th Native +Infantry, in a flying excursion into the valley of Charrikār, +which the Affghāns consider as the garden of Cabul. The first +day we rode from Oorgundee to Shukkur Durra, or "the sugar valley," +so called, not from growing that useful article of grocery, but +from its fertile orchards and extensive vineyards. After a few +miles' ride we crossed a low range of hills, and came upon the +flourishing district of Be-tout,––literally, "without +mulberries." The sagacious reader will justly infer that mulberry +trees were in profusion every where else; indeed so plentiful are +they in general that many of the natives live almost exclusively in +winter upon the fruit, which is dried and reduced to a powder, and +after being mixed with a little milk, or even water, forms a +palatable and nutritious food. The view from the crest of the low +range of hills was really enchanting, and strongly contrasted with +the wild and craggy mountains amongst which we had of late been +struggling. An extensive plain, bounded by high mountains, and +again crowned by the snowy peaks of those more distant, lay before +us, its whole surface dotted with a multitude of white forts +surrounded by a belt of the most vivid green, the barrenness of the +uncultivated spots acting as a foil to the rich vegetation which +springs under the foot of the Affghān husbandman wherever he +can introduce the fertilizing stream. We rode leisurely on through +this wilderness of gardens, till on approaching the village of +Be-tout the loud wail of women hired to pour forth their +lamentations for some misfortune assailed our ears, and on +enquiring we learnt that one of the inhabitants had been murdered +the preceding night under the following circumstances.</p> + +<p>It appears that ten years ago the murdered man (who was a +Persian) had a very pretty daughter, and that a neighbouring chief +hearing of her beauty caused her to be forcibly seized and conveyed +to his own fort. The father, regardless of any consideration but +revenge, arming himself with his long Affghān knife, gained +admission into the chief's house and immediately cut him down and +made his escape. For ten years he concealed himself from the +vengeance of the relatives of the chief, but a few days before he +had returned to his native village, hoping that time would have +softened the vindictiveness of his enemy; but he shewed his +ignorance of the Affghān character, with whom revenge is a +sacred virtue. He had not been long returned, when a nephew of the +chief he had slain shot him through the heart from behind a wall. +As we passed through the village we saw the inhabitants crowding +round the still unburied corpse of the injured father, and our +thoughts were painfully diverted from a contemplation of the +richness and plenty which Providence had vouchsafed to this fertile +spot, to a mournful consideration of the wild passions of man, who +pollutes the earth with the blood of his fellow-creature.</p> + +<p>As we proceeded onwards we came upon those luxuriant vineyards +which produce the famous Kohistān grape, of enormous size as +to berry and bunch, but excelling in delicacy of flavour, in +juiciness, and thinness of skin even the far-famed Muscadel.</p> + +<p>The vines are trained either upon a trellice work or along the +ground, the latter mode being used for the most delicate grape; but +it requires more care and attention, it being necessary while the +fruit is ripening so to trim the plant and thin its foliage, that +the branch may have sufficient sun, and be kept as near as possible +to the earth without touching it. This mode of training is adopted +in the cultivation of the enormous black grape, called from its +size and colour "the cow's-eye." Towards evening we reached the +vicinity of Shukkur Durrah, lying at the extremity of the plain and +backed by mountains of considerable height. Here we encamped for +the night under the shelter of a magnificent walnut tree, in a +small garden adjoining the fort.</p> + +<p>After we had pitched our tents, many Hindoos who trade in fruit, +the staple produce of the country, came to pay their respects, and +one of them informed me that about four miles across the mountains +to the north-west in the Sheikkallee Huzareh country, there were +three lakes so extensive that it occupied a well-mounted horseman a +whole day to ride round them. No European, he said, had ever +visited them; one gentleman, whose name he did not know, had tried +to reach them, but drank so much brandy by the way that he was +obliged to lie down instead, and the guide had great difficulty in +getting him back. I regretted that the expiration of my leave +prevented me from exploring these lakes, which I do not think have +ever been examined by any of our engineers; but I hope that, had I +undertaken the excursion, I should not have fallen into the same +scrape the above mentioned gentleman did. The gardens belonging to +the chief were well worth looking at, with a beautiful stream of +water flowing through the centre, tortured by artificial rocks into +fifty diminutive cataracts.</p> + +<p>We were well satisfied with our quarters, but after night-fall +intimation was given us that unless we kept a sharp look-out it was +very probable we might have some unwelcome intruders before +morning, as a neighbouring fort was hostile to that of Shukkur +Durrah; and moreover, that the inhabitants of the fort itself were +in the utmost dread of a band of desperadoes who infested the +adjacent hills and occasionally paid them a nocturnal visit. +Luckily for us they were in hourly expectation of such an +intrusion, for their fears kept them on the alert, and they had a +watchman on each of the towers, whose sonorous voices proclaimed +every hour of the night. Our guard was now reduced to six, the +remainder being employed to escort Sturt's instruments into Cabul, +so that I really did not much like the appearance of things; when +about midnight my servant reported to me that the sentry saw a +great many lights moving about us.</p> + +<p>I instantly rose and distinctly observed the lighted slow +matches of firearms; there might have been forty or fifty. The +sentry challenged, but the ruffians returned no answer, and +decamped, finding us on the alert, and probably not knowing our +weakness; for had we come to blows our party must have got the +worst of it, though I have not the least doubt that our +Affghān guard would have stood by us even against their own +countrymen.</p> + +<p>The next morning we proceeded along a very pretty road, flanked +by green hedgerows full of wild flowers, and varied occasionally +near the houses with parterres of roses of exquisite fragrance. My +route lay to Bāber's tomb, but Capt. Westmacott being anxious +to reach Cābul could not accompany me, so we parted, mutually +regretting that we had so short a time to spend in this delicious +region. At Bāber's tomb the Kazi of the adjacent village +endeavoured to play off on me a trick, well known to old +campaigners, by assuring me that unless I took from his hands a +guard of at least twelve men (of course paying them for their +services), my life would not be safe during the night. I refused +his guard, and the only annoyance I experienced was from myriads of +musquitoes, who tormented me incessantly throughout the night. I +rode into camp the following day, and was delighted to find myself +once more with my brother officers.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XIX">XIX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>On the 24th September I started on another excursion, though +under very different circumstances; our party on this occasion +consisting of Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry, two companies of +the 37th Native Infantry, two squadrons of the Bengal 2nd Cavalry, +a small body of Affghān horsemen under Prince Timour Shah, +three nine-pounders, two 24-inch howitzers, and two 8 1/2-inch +mortars, the whole under the command of Sir Robert Sale, the object +of the expedition being to quell some refractory chiefs inhabiting +the northern and some hilly parts of the Kohistān.</p> + +<p>It would be beyond the sphere of this little book to enter into +a detailed account of our operations in the field, nor do I pretend +to have sufficient materials by me for such a delicate task, in the +execution of which I might by erroneous statements expose myself to +just animadversion.</p> + +<p>I had not, I regret to say, the means of ascertaining with +precision the different causes which had driven these hill chiefs +into rebellion. The footing which Dost Mahomed had lately acquired +in the north-west encouraged them to persist, and it will be seen +in the sequel, that at the disgraceful scene of Purwun Durrah the +Dost was almost a <i>prisoner</i> in the hands of those who were +considered, by the unversed in the intricacies of Affghān +policy, to be only in arms for the restoration of their favourite +to the throne of Cābul.</p> + +<p>Were it in my power to give an accurate description of the +different positions assumed by the enemy, and provided I had the +leisure to survey the ground, then I am well aware that I might +have claimed additional interest for my pages, as I should have +elucidated the mode of warfare peculiar to the Affghāns; but +such an attempt would perhaps carry me out of my depth. I must +therefore be content with remarking, that though in action the +Affghāns acknowledge some guiding chieftain, yet the details +of position are left to each tribe. They have no confidence in each +other; it follows, therefore, that the wisest plan is to turn +either or both flanks, as this manoeuvre is almost sure to require +a change in the original disposition of their force, which they, +for want of good communications between their detached parties, are +unable to effect. Hence confusion arises, and the uncertainty of +support generally causes the whole to retreat. The Affghāns +have great dread of their flanks being turned, and will sometimes +abandon an almost impregnable position in consequence of a +demonstration being made to that effect, which after all could +never have been carried out.</p> + +<p>On the third day after our departure from Cābul, the force +encamped at a place called Vaugh opposite the beautiful +Istālif, whose luxuriant vineyards and magnificent orchards +have before excited the admiration of the traveller. But we had +still some marches to get over before reaching the territories of +the refractory chiefs, and it was not till the 29th that we came to +Toottum Durrah, or valley of mulberries. Here we found the enemy +posted in force, but it was merely an affair of detachments, two +companies of the 13th and two of the 37th being ordered to make a +detour to the right and left, so as to threaten the enemy's flanks. +The main column closing up continued to advance; the enemy did not +make a very determined resistance, yet a chance shot killed poor +Edward Conolly, brother to the victim of the ruffian king of +Bokhara. His––poor fellow!––was a soldier's +death; though we deplore his loss, we know that he died in +honorable warfare; but we have no such consolation for the fate of +his poor brother, and it is with difficulty that his indignant +countrymen can refrain from imprecating the vengeance of God upon +the cowardly destroyer of so much talent and virtue.</p> + +<p>The enemy made no further stand this day, and we proceeded about +fifteen miles down the valley to Julghur, destroying before our +departure the mud forts of Toottum Durrah. At Julghur the enemy +shewed more resistance; they trusted in the strength of their fort, +and we perhaps too much to its weakness. The result was, that a +wing of the 13th, not more than one hundred and twenty strong, +suffered a loss of fourteen men killed and seventeen wounded, and +the enemy were eventually shelled out by the batteries under the +direction of Capt. Abbott.</p> + +<p>The following morning we buried our gallant companions, amongst +them our respected serjeant-major (Airey), in one deep grave; but a +report was current, that shortly after our departure, the bodies +had been disinterred and exposed in front of the grave, that every +Affghān might witness and exult in the disgrace to which they +had subjected the corpses of the Feringhis.</p> + +<p>This is but a single instance of the hatred which actuated our +enemy, and when we consider the exasperating effects of these +cowardly outrages on the minds of the soldiery, we should the more +admire the generosity and clemency of the British in the hour of +victory. I am aware that ill-informed people have accused our +armies in Affghanistān, especially after the advance of +General Pollock's force, of many acts of cruelty to the natives, +but I can emphatically deny the justice of the accusation. Some few +instances of revenge for past injuries did occur, but I am sure +that an impartial soldier would rather admire the forbearance of +men who for days had been marching over the mangled remains of the +Cābul army.</p> + +<p>But to return to the Kohistān. On the 4th of October we +took a transverse direction westward, crossing the plain of +Buggrām, supposed to be the site of the "Alexandria ad Calcem +Caucasi" of the ancients; numerous coins, gems, and relics of +antiquity are found hereabouts, particularly subsequently to the +melting of the snows. Formerly they were considered useless, but +when our enterprising countrymen and the army of the Indus found +their way to Cābul, these memorials of the Greek had ready +purchasers amongst the numismatologists of the British force. At +the same time the Cābulese considered it great folly our +exchanging the current coin for what were in their estimation +useless pieces of old silver and copper.</p> + +<p>Throughout the marches and countermarches which it was necessary +for us to make in the northern districts of the Kohistān, in +order to prevent the enemy from gathering together, we were much +interested by the varied beauty of the scenery; and it must +candidly be admitted that our ignorance as to the nature or amount +of force we might any day find opposed to us by no means diminished +our excitement. Rather an extraordinary phenomenon occurs in a +small range of hills detached from the parent mountains, a little +to the northward of the fort of Julghur. From top to bottom of the +precipitous side of one of these spurs extends a light golden +streak, rather thicker and less highly coloured at the bottom than +at the top. I was unable to approach it nearer than about four +miles, but I was credibly informed that the streak was in reality +what its appearance first suggested to my mind, a body of fine sand +continually flowing over the side of the hill, and depositing its +volumes in a heap at the base of the mountain. I might perhaps in a +windy day have ascertained the correctness of the report, as then +the sandy cascade would appear as a cloud of dust, but the weather +was calm during the whole time we were in its vicinity. It is +called by the natives the Regrowān or flowing sand. Being no +geologist, I refrain from offering any suggestions as to its cause, +but merely state what I saw and heard.</p> + +<p>After marching about the country for some days like the Paladins +of old in search of adventure, we turned our faces once more +towards Cābul and encamped near Kara-bagh. While here, a scene +occurred which will doubtless be still in the recollection of many +officers with the force, and which I relate as illustrative of the +barbarous customs of the people. Many of the stories which I have +introduced must of course be received by the impartial or +incredulous reader "cum grano salis." I have given them as they +were repeated to me, but I can personally vouch for the following +fact.</p> + +<p>Our bugles had just sounded the first call to dinner, when a few +officers who were strolling in front of the camp observed a woman +with a black veil walking hurriedly from some dark-looking object, +and proceed in the direction of that part of the camp occupied by +the Affghan force under Prince Timour Shah, the Shah Zada, heir +apparent to the throne of Cābul. On approaching the object, it +was discovered to be a man lying on the ground with his hands tied +behind him, his throat half severed, with three stabs in his +breast, and two gashes across the stomach. The mangled wretch was +still breathing, and a medical man being at hand, measures were +instantly taken most calculated to save his life, but without +success, and in a quarter of an hour he was a corpse. Familiar as +we were with scenes which in our own happy land would have excited +the horror and disgust of every man possessed of the common +feelings of humanity, there was something in this strange murder +which caused us to make enquiries, and the reader will hardly +believe me when I tell him that the victim met his fate with the +knowledge and consent of Timour Shah. The woman whom we first +observed was the legal murderess. She had that morning been to the +Shah Zada and sworn on the Korān that the deceased many years +back had murdered her husband and ran away with his other wife; she +had demanded redress according to the Mahommedan +law––blood for blood. The Shah Zada offered the woman a +considerable sum of money if she would waive her claim to right of +personally inflicting the punishment on the delinquent, and allow +the man to be delivered over to his officers of justice, promising +a punishment commensurate with the crime he had committed. But the +woman persisted in her demand for the law of the Korān. Her +victim was bound and delivered into her hands; she had him +conducted in front of the prince's camp about three hundred yards +off, and effected her inhuman revenge with an Affghān knife, a +fit instrument for such a purpose.</p> + +<p>Before returning to Cābul it was deemed requisite to punish +the rebellious owner of the fort of Babboo-koosh-Ghur. On the +approach of our force he decamped with all his vassals, and as it +was advisable to leave some permanent mark of our displeasure, the +bastions were blown down with gunpowder. It seems that the enemy +imagined we were very negligent in camp, for they honored us the +same evening with one of their night attacks, for which they are +famous, the object in general being rather to harass their +adversary by keeping him on the alert than to penetrate to his +tents.</p> + +<p>On the present occasion they commenced a distant fusillade upon +the left of our line, extending it gradually along nearly the whole +face; a few rounds of grape from the artillery soon cleared +<i>their</i> front, but the enemy continued for above three hours a +random fire upon the left, and, strange to say, they kept aloof +from the European troops, who were encamped as usual on the right +of the line. The artillery horses being picketted in soft ground +soon drew their iron pegs, and having thus obtained their liberty, +scampered up and down in rear of the troops and amongst the tents, +thereby considerably adding to the confusion and uproar. On the +alarm first sounding every light was extinguished in the camp, and +well was it that these precautionary measures were adopted, for a +great portion of the standing tents were riddled. The enemy fired +without aim, and we were fortunate enough to lose only one sepoy; +we could not ascertain the amount of casualty amongst them, but +from the sudden cessation of any attack upon that part of the line +where the artillery was stationed, we concluded that the rounds of +grape must have told with considerable effect.</p> + +<p>After midnight the enemy withdrew, and when at a distance of +about half a mile from our outposts gave a shout of defiance, +perhaps to draw a party from the camp to pursue them, which, +however, was not done, or rejoicing at the havoc they imagined to +have made in our ranks. We heard afterwards that the Affghāns +with their usual superstition had remembered that many years ago a +large army had been attacked on the same ground we then occupied +and annihilated, and that probably a like success would crown their +efforts in the present instance.</p> + +<p>This night attack rendered some further demonstration of our +powers of retaliation necessary, particularly as a portion of our +adversaries were from the fort of Kardurrah, to which we proceeded +the next day and easily captured, the enemy retiring to the hills +on our advance, abandoning a strong and easily defended position, +for their flank could not have been turned without incurring +considerable loss, if the fort of Kardurrah had been held in a +determined manner. It was generally remarked as being a +particularly strong place, the approach leading through orchards +surrounded by mud walls six or seven feet high and loopholed, the +lanes intersecting them being barricadoed as if to be held to the +last extremity.</p> + +<p>Probably such was their valiant intention, but it seems they +were bewildered by our attacking them from different points, and +not trusting to each other for support, all took to their heels. +The undulating ground was strewn with masses of detached rocks, and +they had also built up several small but substantial stone +breast-works, so that altogether we had reason to congratulate +ourselves on their unexpected retreat.</p> + +<p>The women had been previously conveyed away with the heavy +baggage, and we found the houses empty, but fruit of every +description was lying about the streets, prepared and packed for +the winter supply of the Cābul market. Melons, peaches, pears, +walnuts were either in heaps against the walls or placed in baskets +for transportation; but the most curious arrangement was exhibited +in the mode in which they preserved their brobdignag grapes for +winter consumption. About thirty berries, each of enormous size and +separately enveloped in cotton, were hermetically enclosed between +a couple of rudely shaped clay saucers, so that we were obliged to +crack the saucers to get at the fruit inside, and great was the +scrambling amongst the thirsty soldiers for their luscious contents +as they rolled out upon the ground.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>CHAPTER <a name="XX">XX.</a></h6> + +<br /> + + +<p>The thread of my narrative now guides me to an event which +cannot be contemplated without astonishment and regret. I allude to +the unaccountable panic which seized the 2nd Cavalry during the +action at Purwan Durrah; indeed I would willingly pass it over in +silence, but I am anxious to express my humble admiration of the +chivalrous bearing of the European officers on that melancholy +occasion.</p> + +<p>The several severe blows which we had recently inflicted upon +the Affghāns during the course of this short compaign, and +their not having lately appeared in any organized force in the +vicinity of our camp, caused an opinion to prevail amongst many +that our labours for the season were brought to a close; but on the +20th of October we were again excited by the rumour that Dost +Mahommed, who had been hovering about, intended as a +"dernière ressource" once more to try his fortune in war. +Our anticipations of a little more active service were soon +realized by an order to advance upon Purwan Durrah. We accordingly +struck our tents, passing by Aukserai, and encamped near Meer +Musjedi's fortress, remaining there till the 3rd of November +watching the movements of the enemy. On that day information was +received that the Dost, with a large body of horse and foot, was +moving towards us by the Purwan Durrah; the general decided upon +checking his progress, and an advanced guard consisting of four +companies of the 13th under Major Kershaw, two companies of Native +Infantry, two nine-pounders, and two squadrons of the 2nd Bengal +Cavalry, the whole under the command of Col. Salter of the 2nd +Cavalry, preceded the main column. On the road we met a follower of +one of the friendly chiefs charged with a report that the +ex-Ameer's party had been attacking some of the forts in the +valley, but for the present had taken up a position on the +neighbouring hills. We soon came on them, and at a short distance +perceived a small body of cavalry in the plain. A rumour passed +through our ranks that Dost Mahommed was himself amongst the +horsemen, and it was a subject of congratulation that the only +opportunity had now arrived of our cavalry engaging theirs, and +that one brilliant attack would bring this desultory warfare to a +glorious termination.</p> + +<p>The squadrons under the command of the gallant Fraser were +ordered to advance, and moved steadily forward at a trot; all eyes +were fixed upon them––the men were apparently +steady––and even the least sanguine could hardly doubt +the result of a shock of disciplined cavalry on an irregular body +of horse not half their numerical strength.</p> + +<p>But when the word to charge was given, an uncontrolled panic +seized the troopers; instead of putting their horses into a gallop +and dashing forward to certain victory, the pace gradually +slackened; in vain did their officers use every effort to urge the +men on––in vain did the spirit-stirring trumpet sound +the charge––the troopers were spell-bound by the demon +of fear; the trot became a walk, then a halt; and then, forgetful +of their duty, their honor, and their officers, they wheeled about +and shamefully fled.</p> + +<p>But not for one single instant did Fraser hesitate; with a +bitter and well-merited expression of contempt at this unmanly +desertion, he briefly said, "We must charge alone," and dashing +spurs into his horse, he rushed to an almost certain fate, followed +by Ponsonby, Crispin, Broadfoot, Dr. Lord, and by about a dozen of +his men, who all preferred an honourable death to an ignominious +life.</p> + +<p>The feelings of disgust mingled with intense admiration with +which this unparalleled scene was viewed by the infantry can be +better imagined than expressed; and those who under similar trying +circumstances would have endeavoured to imitate the heroism of +their countrymen, could scarce subdue a thrill of horror as this +handful of brave soldiers galloped forward. The intrepid Fraser, +mounted upon a large and powerful English horse, literally hewed a +lane for himself through the astonished Affghans; and Ponsonby +too––for I am weary of seeking fresh epithets for their +unsurpassable conduct––on a strong Persian mare, for a +time bore down all opposition. Dost Mahommed himself, though in +some personal danger from the impetuosity of this desperate charge, +could not restrain his admiration.</p> + +<p>The event fully proved the danger incurred. Dr. Lord, Crispin, +and Broadfoot upheld the glory of their country to the last, and +fell covered with many wounds. Fraser and Ponsonby were both +desperately hacked, and owed their lives to their horses becoming +unmanageable, bearing their riders from the midst of the enemy. The +reins of Ponsonby's bridle were cut, and he himself grievously +wounded in the face, while Fraser's arm was nearly severed in two; +neither did their horses escape in the conflict, as both bore deep +gashes of the Affghān blades.</p> + +<p>While the European officers were thus sacrificing themselves in +the execution of their duty, the dastard troopers came galloping in +amongst the infantry of the advanced guard, some of whom were with +difficulty restrained from inflicting on the spot the punishment +they so well deserved.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the enemy's cavalry, flushed with success, advanced +against the infantry with colours flying and loud shoutings, as in +expectation of an easy victory. But the infantry were prepared to +receive them, and a few rounds from the nine-pounders soon caused +them to halt; finding that their antagonists were not under the +same influence as the cavalry, they gave up the attack and retired +to a distant position on the hills. The steady advance of the 37th +N.I. from the main body of our forces, together with a few +judiciously thrown shells, soon drove their infantry to a more +elevated range of hills; and before sunset we had quiet possession +of the field.</p> + +<p>We had the melancholy satisfaction of finding the bodies of our +comrades, whom we buried at night in one large grave, and +performing the solemn service of the dead by torchlight. There is +no chance of their being forgotten: so long as gallantry is admired +and honour revered amongst British soldiers, so long will they +remember Fraser's charge at Purwan Durrah.</p> + +<p>I am loath to dwell on the misconduct of the troopers; as far as +I am enabled to ascertain it was unexpected by the officers. Some, +indeed, declare that previous disaffection existed amongst the men; +others say that the troopers being Mussulmen did not like to charge +against Dost Mahommed himself, whom they considered as their +religious chief; but I think we may fairly attribute their flight +to downright <i>cowardice</i>, as no complaint or cause was +assigned by the men previous to encountering the foe. Whatever be +the truth, the event was most unfortunate, for it appears that the +Dost was even previous to the action anxious to throw himself upon +the protection of the British, but his followers would not permit +him to do so; nevertheless, on the evening of that day he managed +to elude their vigilance, and riding directly to Cābul met the +envoy Sir William M'Naghten taking his evening ride, and +surrendered himself into his hands.</p> + +<p>The news of this event of course put an end to further +hostilities, and on the 7th of November we returned to Cābul, +heartily glad once more to get comfortably housed, as the winter +was rapidly approaching and the nights severely cold.</p> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>THE END.</h6> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h6>LIST OF <a name="PLATES">PLATES.</a></h6> + +<br /> + +<p><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece</a> (Outer Cave at Yeermallik)</p> +<p>View of the <a href="#Outer_Cave_of_Yeermallik">Outer Cave of +Yeermallik</a>, shewing the Entrance Hole to the larger Cavern.</p> + +<p><a href="#Map">Map</a> of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route +to Koollum.</p> + +<p>View of the <a href="#Ice_Caves">Ice Caves</a> in the Cavern of +Yeermallik.</p> + +<p>View of <a href="#Koollum">Koollum</a> from the Eastward.</p> + +<p>Fac-Simile Drawings of <a href="#Ancient_Coins">Ancient +Coins</a> found in Toorkisthan and Affghanistan, in the possession +of Capt. Burslem, as follows:<br /> +<br /> +</p> + +<table width="100%" summary="List of Coins"> +<tr> +<td width="8%"> </td> +<td class="smallprint" width="7%" valign="top">No. 1.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 2.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 3.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 4.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 5.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 6.<br /> +<br /> +No. 7.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 8.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 9.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +No. 10.</td> +<td class="smallprint" width="85%" valign="top">A Bactrian coin: +legend on the obverse, [Transliterated from the Greek lettering, +Basileus ermaion sot]. Reverse, Hercules on a tuckt or throne, with +his right arm extended.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin of Apollodotus: legend, [Transliterated from +the Greek lettering, Basileus pollodot soter]; a male figure, +holding in one hand a club, and a spear in the other. The reverse +bears Pelhvic characters.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin of Eucratides: [Transliterated from the +Greek, Basileus megal] is only decypherable. If of Eucratides the +Great, of which I have no doubt, this coin is of great value, as he +reigned in Bactria 181 B.C. The reverse bears a Pelhvic legend, +with the figures of two warriors mounted.<br /> +<br /> + A square silver coin of Menander. A helmeted head, with the +inscription, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. The reverse bears the emblematic figure of an owl.<br /> +<br /> + A square copper coin, inscription illegible. On the obverse is a +woman holding a flower or a priest offering incense. It appears to +be a Kanirkos coin.<br /> +<br /> + A round silver Indo-Scythian coin.<br /> +<br /> + A square silver coin of Apollodotus, 195 B.C. Obverse, an +elephant, with the Bactrian monogram +beneath––[Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus +pollodoton soteros]. Reverse, an Indian bull. The characters and +figures on this coin are very distinct.<br /> +<br /> + Another coin of Menander. An elephant's head with the proboscis +elevated: legend, [Transliterated from the Greek, Basileus soteros +Menandrou]. On the reverse is a cannon. This is an old and valuable +coin.<br /> +<br /> + A gold coin, supposed by Lady Sale to be a Kadphises. The legend +begins with Amokad and ends with Korano. On the reverse is a naked +figure, with the right arm stretched out. A few specimens, but in +copper, have been found in the barrow at Maunikyala in the Punjaub. +Lady Sale considers this coin to be a great beauty and of +value.<br /> +<br /> + A gem found in the plain of Buggram.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /> +<br /> + + +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h4>Maps</h4> + +<br /> +<h6><a name="Map">Map</a> of Cabul and the Kohistan, with the Route +to Koollum.</h6> + +<br /> + + +<br /> +<br /> +<img src="images/map-cabul.png" width="2872" height="4125" alt="Map-Cabul-Kohistan" border="0" /> +<p>Zoom Level = 1:2, therefore Map Scale = 16 miles to an inch.</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11902 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbbe861 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin1.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8abffdc --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin2.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d347d2f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin3.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce19bdd --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin4.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d436a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin5.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..995200e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin6.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..99b07af --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin7.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..678143a --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin8.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2bf04f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/coin9.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/gem.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/gem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19e185f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/gem.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png b/old/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5fcdaac --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/map-cabul.png diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8de0263 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.gif diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..82f9f38 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan139.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1accae --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/toorkistan160.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7d925a --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/toorkisthan114.jpg diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png b/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e39b135 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix2.png diff --git a/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg b/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9de1436 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/11902-h/images/yeermallix3.jpg |
